MFI Magazine Autumn Winter 2016 by MFI Magazine

Boys Will Be Boys Autumn/ Winter 2016 Dylan Moran • Paul Kerr Owen Hamze • Chun Soot

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IRELANDS FRESHEST MODELLING, CASTING & CREATIVE AGENCY

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Editor’s Note From shops to culture stories to events,

The centre of it all. #DublinTown

A world filled with endless judgement, inequality and injustice; a ray of new cultures have developed and communities have grown stronger as they continue to stand together, fighting for human rights. It’s a shame that after centuries of this tiring battle, people remain to be evaluated and often discriminated by how they act or dress - which makes me question our ‘freedom of speech’. How can society dictate our behaviour and actions? Why should we be conscious of people’s opinions? Why are we obligated to fit in? In the latest edition of Men’s Fashion Ireland, entitled ‘Boys Will Be Boys’; we explore the different aspects of masculinity and sexuality and channel a rebellious attitude in doing what we want. We discover the exciting journeys of Ireland’s leading male models that represent our country in the international fashion industry, and some recognisable characters around Dublin city, celebrating their successful careers and learning their groundbreaking stories through exclusive editorials and original artworks.

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Adam Gaffey

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DIRECTORY CONTRIBUTORS Editor in Chief: Adam Gaffey Deputy Editor: Conor Davage Fashion Editors: James Butler Brian Conway Sarah Ruxton

OUTFIT GRID

11 INTERVIEW: PAUL KERR

Art Director & Designer: Cian Brennan Writers: John Tierney Conaill O’Dwyer Lewis Cameron Illustrators: Rob Gavin Cesca Saunders Francesco Lo lacono Killian Fallon Cian Ryan Photographers: Dean McDaid Kristijan Antolovic Babs Daly Donal Talbot Caoimhe Hahn Taine King Stephen James O’Neill Cover Team: Model: Dylan Moran at NotAnother Fashion Editor: Sarah Ruxton Photographer: Dean Ryan McDaid Styling Assistants: Anja Maye; Danielle Magee Grooming: Sharon Whelan

SEASON STAPLES James Butler

Adam Gaffey

26 EDITORIAL: HOUSE

ARE BOYS THE NEW GIRLS OF FASHION? Conor Davage

STREET STYLE

WHY DUBLIN NEEDS CLUB KIDS John Tierney

New to the team Conor Davage ARTICLE: CUSTOM MADE

ARTICLE: SEXUALITY IN MENSWEAR Conaill O’Dwyer

Conor Davage

32 SUITS YOU! Lewis Cameron

INTERVIEW & EDITORIAL CHUN SOOT Conor Davage

EDITORIAL: CLEAR PATH

BEHIND THE SCENES AW16

INTERVIEW: OWEN HAMZE Conor Davage

Conor Davage is the newest addition to MFI in the role of Deputy Editor. As a student of Sociology and Social Policy in Trinity College, he was first introduced to fashion journalism through writing for the college newspaper The University Times, as well as with his involvement in the Trinity Fashion Society. Since then he was gained experience in the Irish fashion Industry while doing an internship at frockadvisor and assisting stylist Catherine Condell. Now Conor expresses his interests and voice through Men’s Fashion Ireland Magazine. 9

#TRENDING

Outfit Grid

Jacket €79.99 | H&M Shirt €24.99 | New Look

Shoes € 50 | River Island

Tommy Hilfiger Denim Collection AW16 Look Book

Belt €59 | Ralph Lauren at Brown Thomas Trousers €39.50 | M&S

Since metallics were first introduced as an optional fabric for our wardrobe, seen in Versace, Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger, we have taken note, in preparation for the colder seasons. The trend, which takes inspiration from your favourite semi-precious metals, has proven to be both versatile and long lasting. Metallics took shape at the catwalk shows in the form of puffer jackets, shearling coats and even baggy trousers. Creating an aesthetic of ski-wear meets space-wear and a must have for the street come Autumn/Winter.

10 11

SEASON STAPLES

Tartan ← Paul Galvin x Dunnes Stores ‘Born Mad’ Collection. Model, Conor Mc at Assets Model Agency. Photographer Lee Malone. Fear not fellas, I’m not suggesting a highland fling any time soon, but AW16 most definitely calls for a nod to the heritage haven that is tartan. Your best bet is to invest in a series of separates - a three-piece suit will lend itself to a whole host of looks. When pairing your perfect print with other pieces, keep things simple and remember your palette – we don’t want a mishmash of menswear! What’s my top tip? Avoid online shopping wherever possible - while we here at MFI love adding to the aul’ virtual basket, it can be a tricky road to tread when it comes to nailing your tailoring. Of course, should you be lusting after the latest online piece, simply find yourself a good tailor - they’re a lot more affordable than one may think!

With AW16 firmly in our sights, James Butler is showing us his new season must-haves. Get shopping guys!

Trophy Jackets ← New Look AW16 Look Book.

The Cardigan

Considered a womenswear staple for a number of seasons, it’s finally time for the guys to garner some seriously statement pieces in the form of a knockout jacket. With patchwork and embellishment taking centre stage, the key to nailing this trend is to let the appliqué do the talking. Block colours such as navy, khaki and classic black are the perfect palettes to choose from, with simple skinny jeans and a fine knit sweater acting as the ideal way to finish your ensemble. For a more formal look, try pairing a black silk bomber with oriental embellishment with a plain white tee, cuffed slim fit slacks and a clunky patent brogue - a contemporary nod to evening wear nailed.

← River Island AW16 Look Book It’s been all about the waistcoats in recent years (thanks to Mr. McGregor), but this season sees a resurgence in a firm fashion favourite – the cardigan. Shawl neck collars and rich textures pave the way for embracing grandfather chic for AW16, with the cardigan offering a myriad of aesthetic endeavours. Try yours layered up with a fabulous tweed blazer and some indigo jeans, or ease your way out of the warmer months with a plain white tee and soft chinos. While slouch fits and waterfall necklines may plague the high street, my best is to keep it simple - you can’t beat a basic button up.

Shearling

Sneaker Chic

← Primark AW16 Look Book It’s all about textures when it comes to AW, and shearling is quite simply a menswear must have, not to mention the ultimate investment piece. Be it in the form of a chic aviation style jacket, or as a trim on your favourite autumnal accessory, this fabulous fabric will see you through seasons to come. Of course, don’t go too overboard on the shearling – a cheeky cuff and an accented collar and you’re good to go. Rich browns and warm terracotta are the perfect hues to choose, while black shearling offers an ideal alternative for anyone who may be growing weary of their go-to biker jacket.

← Tommy Hilfiger Tailored AW16 Look Book The iconic white sneaker has undergone many incarnations in its time, but recent seasons have seen the menswear must-have revert to a simpler form, much to the delight of sartorial staple-seekers such as yours truly. So, what makes the classic white trainer such a necessity? Quite simply - versatility. From a simple bomber jacket and black ripped jeans to a classic wool blend suit with cuffed ankles, almost every ensemble can be given a contemporary edge with a subtle sneaker, even for formal events. For maximum impact, I recommend finding a pair with a good chunky sole - the extra height will give your trainers a modern edge, and lift you from casual to luxe in an instant.

Are Boys The New Girls Of Fashion?

‘Are Boys the New Girls of Fashion?’ Words by Conor Davage

Illustration by Cesca Saunders

Between 2010 and 2015, in fact, men purchased more clothing than anything else over the internet – this includes beer and other alcohol, computers and cameras. It was not too long ago that we had to make the case for man bags. The argument for, had to be grounded in necessity and practicality, in order for it to be an acceptable addition to men’s wardrobes. Perhaps the same breakdown of rigid gender roles which have granted women equal rights and opportunities, have also allowed men to adapt a more expressive approach in life, and therefore, fashion also. Through menswear, we are pushing the boundaries of what it means to be a man, redefining what it is that men can wear, and reclaiming patterns, shapes and colours that have been exclusively available to women for decades.

When the the world first caught a glimpse of Alessandro Michele’s premiere collection for Gucci in 2015, it was hailed as a triumph for menswear. The new-wave punk look – this time in rebellion against constrictive rules of dress – showed a new side and potential for men’s fashion, one which had not yet been conceived for mainstream clothing. The embracing of this collection reflected a larger sentiment, one which upheld expression and liberation as something important and worthwhile for men. Since then, many other designers have followed suit. As with many things, where there is demand or need, supply soon follows. Traditionally, the rag trade has been centred on women, pre-empting their wants and catering to their needs. Now, more than ever before, men are taking part in fashion in a big way. Not limited to wearable style either, we are seeing males reaching supermodel status and gracing magazine covers next to their female equivalents, as men are being sexualised as women have been – an interesting development where something which represents oppression for many women, has become symbolic of men’s liberation. Men hold the positions of creative director for top fashion houses like Gucci, Balenciaga, Saint Laurent, Balmain and Dior, to name a few, and men’s Fashion Weeks now stand independently from those of women in London, Paris, Milan, Tokyo and New York. The presence of these menswear weeks, as a staple of the fashion calendar alone, indicate that there has been a change in the relationship that men have with fashion. This is backed by evidence which shows that the market for men’s clothing, now worth £13 Billion in the UK, is growing faster than womenswear, at a rate of 22% since 2011 according to Mintel. With menswear making up 25% of all global sales, only just lagging behind that of women at 39%; Proving men as worthy competitors with women as the leading consumers of fashion and luxury goods the world over. This spike in demand for men’s clothing may be partially as a result of the growth of online shopping as a way to purchase. Men’s interests and desires, often looking for style at convenience, are most easily facilitated by retail over the web or through smartphone applications. These websites not only allow for retail from home, and offer tips and advice for styling, but also boast the ability to refine choices for a more personable and time-efficient shopping experience. The male end user is a favourable target audience for brands looking to cash in on extra revenue.

Now, in 2016, men’s approach to style is emulating that of women. Flares, ruffles, fringes and pussy bows are just some of the additions that we added to the male closet this year. Highlighting fashion for fashion’s sake, rather than purely for reasons pertaining to functionality. Perhaps like other art forms, fashion flourishes in time of recession, and after the worst economic hit of our lifetime, men have emerged, inspired and open. Giving greater creative possibilities too for the industry, as designers, marketers and magazine editors try to sell in new and innovative ways to men; ways that do not depend on the exhausted approach where men are reduced only to their sex drive. It is an exciting time for fashion, especially as boys become the new girls.

NEW Y-3 Nike A.P.C. Cav Empt Raf Simons Undercover Sun Buddies Damir Doma A Kind of Guise Common Projects Adidas Consortium Christopher Shannon

NOWHERE 65 Aungier Street Monday–Saturday 12–19 nowhere.ie

HOUSE Photographer Babs Daly Stylist Christine Denning Models Proud Ngwenya, Emmet Kelly, Gavin Gormley Clothing at Nowhere, 65 Aungier Street, Dublin

Teheran Leather Jacket, A Kind Of Guise; Tarantino Tee Shirt, Damir Doma; MCL Cuff Track Pant, Y-3; Kibo Boot, Eytys; Coperinco Coat, Damir Doma, All at Nowhere.

Teheran Jacket, A Kind of Guise; Half Zip Base with Shannon Print, Christopher Shannon; Picasso Trouser, Damir Doma; Mother Suede Gum, Eytys; Babak Beanie, A Kind of Guise, All at Nowhere.

Printed Coach Jacket with Hood, UNDERCOVER; Parini Jersey Shorts, Damir Doma; Kazan Wool Knit, Damir Doma; William Hoodie, Damir Doma; Qasa Boot, Y-3, All at Nowhere.

SB Classy Notch Blazer; Classy Tailored Trousers; Ilam Hoodie, All A Kind of Guise; Big Logo Trainer, K-Swiss; Hand Chain, UNDERCOVER, All at Nowhere.

Sean Ray Age: 22

Where do you work? I currently work as a fashion advisor in The Formal Suite Dublin. How would you describe your personal style? I like to dress smart casual. Are you inspired by anyone in particular? I would be inspired by a couple of different people but if I was to name one, it would have to be David Beckham - he’s always dressed well. Is health and fitness a part of your daily routine?

Yes. I workout 4/5 times a week because it makes me feel better about myself and I try eat as healthy as I can but its not as easy as it sounds.

What’s the most you’ve spent on a pair of shoes? The most I’ve spent on a pair of shoes would be €200 on a pair of Timberland deck shoes. What’s the most expensive thing in your wardrobe? One of my 3-piece suits which I got from the formal suite for €400. What’s your opinion on the general approach irish men take when dressing? I think the younger generation puts more effort into how they look and how they dress. Back in the day people just put on whatever, but nowadays Irish men are putting a bit of work into their outfits which is good. Who is your favourite menswear designer? Why? At the moment, I really like some of Matt Hoye’s designs. His designs always look smart and they’re a bit different as well. Essential pieces for Autumn/ Winter? Nice tweed pieces and a good leather jacket.

STREET STYLE Photography: Stephen James O’Neill

Thomas Behan Age: 28

Where do you work? I’m the owner of the Demon Barbers at the Ink Factory. How would you describe your personal style? Original / spicy. Are you inspired by anyone in particular? My mother! What’s your favourite tattoo and why? I’ve a huge fighting style pin-up girl on my side; it’s my favourite piece because I got it in honour of my mam. She broke her neck four years ago and made a full recovery, so when I look at that it reminds me of how tough things were and that you never give up on anything. Where do you shop the most? Why? The past couple of months it’s definitely been H&M. It has the biggest variety of choices and value for your money. What’s the most you’ve spent on a pair of trainers? €300 on a pair of red, leather Nike Jordans. What’s the most expensive thing in your wardrobe? I’ve a pair of diesel jeans I paid €650 for- I still don’t know why! What hairstyles are trending at the minute? The crop is still very current but I’m seeing a lot more of the natural, low maintenance look coming back. I think the fades will fizzle out a little bit over this Autumn / Winter. Who is your favourite menswear designer? Why? It would have to be Joshua Kane. I’m a little bit fascinated by how he keeps taking classic styles and turns them into very current wearable art.

Paul Kerr

Interview by Adam Gaffey

Jet-setting around the world, Dublin’s Paul Kerr has been living the dream of all dreams. From modelling in Ralph Lauren’s luxurious SS17 presentation in Milan, alongside Oliver Chesire and River Viiperi, to holidaying in the hot spots of Ibiza, partying the nights away as the sun sets beyond the horizon; Mr. Kerr is enjoying every last minute of his unexpected journey in the world of fashion. After being approached unexpectedly by a model scout in Dundrum Town Centre, not long ago, Paul was soon signed to Elite Model Management in the UK where he was elevated into a fast-paced working environment of castings and test shoots. A career which veered away from his chosen sports science course in DIT, at the time, Paul says “it was a bit of a gamble” – not knowing what to expect from it. He jokes “I found it all very confusing at first. Maybe that was the Zoolander affect”. Mainly based in Europe with supporting agencies in London, Milan, Amsterdam, Barcelona, Hamburg, Copenhagen and Düsseldorf, Kerr now has his eyes set on LA and New York. His ‘boy next door’ look allows him to book work in both the fashion and commercial markets, making his career possibilities limitless. With aspirations to become the best he can be, Paul says “I don’t want to have any regrets in life”. He takes it for granted and lives each moment as it is. Represented by Morgan the Agency here in Ireland, there’s no doubt that when Kerr hits the states, his career will only progress further. It’s another risk that he is willing to take, as there are some amazing opportunities that lay ahead. Follow Paul’s adventure on Instagram @Dkerrbear

Why Dublin needs Club kids

17.3"

AORUS

The menswear collections this season were rife with nostalgic images of “club kids”, most notably Charles Jeffrey’s presentation which induced lurid hallucinations of 80s and 90s London, a scene dominated by iconic nightlife legends like Leigh Bowery and the New Romantics. Despite its geographic and cultural proximity, Ireland failed to foster its own club kids, or at least to document them in any meaningful way. This is something that NCAD fashion design student Anja Maye also mourns. “I have met people within Dublin that have described parties and nightlife in the 80s and early 90s that I can only envy so I know this isn’t the beginning for Dublin. I think it’s a lot easier to dig up club culture in London and New York because it was and always will be on a larger scale, but Dublin definitely has a past. At the moment, I think there are a lot of young people in Dublin trying to ‘make things happen’ which is amazing”. One of those people is model and fellow design student Dylan Kerr, who is known for his extravagant and often challenging looks. “I once wrote pussy across my forehead in gold letters”, he recalls “I love provoking people and getting reactions out of them. I love it when people get confused”. The pair met only a few months ago, when Anja asked Dylan to model some of her garments for a shoot. The resulting friendship is astonishing. “Anja is my long lost twin. We were 100% separated shortly after our birth in the national alien hospital of planet mars”. This is no surprise, as both parties share an incredibly similar ethos when it comes to dressing up. For Dylan it’s all about expression, “I personally feel that my rebellion in my self-presentation was born out of my frustration growing up in a society that was religion-driven and hence close minded and judgemental. Since coming to college I have been more comfortable in the way I present myself”. Anja mirrors this sentiment; “Sometimes the most eccentric ways I present myself are the times that I feel most confident, I don’t know why because these are usually the times that people shout rude remarks at me on the street”. For some, Anja and Dylan could be described as the closest thing Ireland has to ‘club kids’, in their commitment to aesthetic experimentation and living outside of culturally assigned sartorial rules. “It’s the fearlessness and the act of being extravagant that has and continues to inspire me”, says Anja. “[The club scene] appeals to me because I want extravagance to be the norm and I think it’s fun to continue pushing the boundaries of extravagance. This is something that people like Leigh Bowery lived for.” Indeed Anja’s designs share something intrinsic with the avant-garde looks of the club scene. Her pieces are often sculptural, to a point where the physical body becomes secondary to the silhouette on show. “I’m much more drawn to the idea of unisex or genderless clothing, but I always want to put my clothes on my guy friends”.

Words by John Tierney

Photography by Donal Talbot 28

Of course the original club kid movement was as much about gender fluidity as it was about conceptual fashion. This is primarily due to its cultural links with historic queer movements. “I think [club culture and queer culture] are inseparable” Dylan argues. (contd. overleaf)

Outfit Grid

“As a segment of society which has long been oppressed (and still is today), it is natural to want to break out of the box you are placed in.” Dylan’s looks have often ruffled feathers. Not so long ago he was refused from a well- known Dublin venue due to his attire. “People should be allowed to go out for a dance with their friends without being discriminated against. If I’m not causing trouble I should be allowed to have a good time...Why turn me away because I am wearing a dress and not my female friend who is dressed in the same way?” Fashion subcultures often arise in opposition to a set of social and political forces, and while Ireland has developed into a more liberal landscape, there is clearly more work to be done. When asked about the state of Dublin nightlife in 2016, Dylan responds, “It’s dead... We need to create inclusive spaces, safe spaces, places where people can have fun without fear of judgement or being harassed. I don’t know if change is coming soon, but I bloody well hope so.” One could argue that the club doesn’t always make the kid but Dylan doesn’t buy into that argument. “I think it is about the club. I mean, the club is the space where these people can express themselves... We don’t have places like this in Dublin, hence why [a notable club kid] scene doesn’t exist here. These people have a direct link with the clubbing scene. Their relationship is symbiotic, one works off the other.”

Hat €10 | River Island

Jacket €280 | Brown Thomas

“Dublin doesn’t need club kids, they already exist.” he adds. “They just need a space to exist in”. TShirt €6.99 | H&M

Holdall Bag €73 | NExt

Trousers €39.50 | M&S

Boots € 150 | Debenhams

Custom Made

The subject matter, often combatant with social norms, attempts to subvert some of society’s strongly held assumptions. At the height of individualism in fashion, having the first pick of the season is not enough. The trendsetters that be are not interested in what everyone else can just as easily acquire. Even at the rate at which the clothing conglomerates can recreate a sufficient knock off of the catwalk show, just weeks after the event, this is slow in the timeframe of relevance. If you have something to say, or an idea to express, you won’t find it on the racks of the high street – you have to make it yourself. Pop-culture, almost by definition, is fickle and subject to constant change. This is especially true over the course of the last decade with the use of the internet becoming widespread. In the information age, it is impossible for brands to keep up with the momentum at which memes and viral videos come and go. Just as trending topics and hashtags are prone to evolution, so too is public opinion and our shared beliefs. In the process of getting the product from the drawing boards to the rails of the high street megastore, it goes through buyers, designers, production and transport – somewhere along the line, they fall behind. Some of the high street’s biggest names have recently caught on to the trend, making packs of iron-on monographs and pop-art patchwork widely available. But in their mass production, however, they miss the point. Simply by adding hashtags vacuously and eagerly to their lines in an attempt to remain or appear relevant is not enough. The reality is that these brands do not speak for the tweet generation, and certainly, do not reflect what they want to say.

– Words by Conor Davage Illustration by Rob Gavin

Individuality in fashion is your greatest asset, as self-expression becomes an emerging trend and a pattern of the catwalk shows for Autumn/Winter 16. With intricate patchwork, decorative graphics and embroidered slogans making a striking impact for the length of the runway at the Libertine show. The ready-to-wear label, Just Cavalli also presented a similar theme with leather used as a canvas for lively splashes of paint at Milan Fashion Week. A continuation of what we saw for Marc Jacobs’ Spring/Summer 16 collection where badges, pins and patches embellished model’s denim jackets. Orchestrated in such a way to look homemade, and customised. Reminiscent of the 70s when the newly imagined teens would tear rips into their own jeans for effect. This is an example of a bottom-up movement in fashion, where instead of the catwalk dictating the trends of the upcoming season, the opposite it true. Streetwear, or more precisely, street culture is influencing the designers at the top; disrupting the traditional ebb and flow of the industry. Follow the feeds of Instagram’s cool kids and you see personalised clothing with an individual message. Making use of social media as a platform to showcase or even sell own branded merchandise, including customised leather or denim jackets, t-shirts, sweaters and badges. They take influence from popular culture, politics or even personal experience; painted, printed, studded and even embroidered for impact.

It is this desire for something unique and individual in fashion which sparked the innovation behind homegrown brand, SELFMADE. Founders Tobi Balogun (designer) and Sinead Kelly (stylist, marketer & creative director) explain, “we are always on the lookout for amazing, interesting and special pieces that we feel fit our own personal style”, they add, “If something is a one-off or limited edition, it makes wearing the item feel more special”. The gap in the market for original items of clothing allows the Irish-based label to capture an audience of people whose style is, what they describe as, “adventurous, strategically outrageous, colourful and sometimes radical”; an audience with the desire to be set apart from “the fast pack” while also capturing one’s own personal identity. As people turn away from fleeting, seasonal trends, they look instead to express themselves through clothing that arise more organically. Specialising in reworked, vintage garments, SELFMADE Clothing create unique,, wearable pieces. The Vintage items, once sourced, are taken apart, changed and put back together again, achieved through the time consuming, creative process of remodelling, distressing, dying or even bleaching the fabrics. Working with young and up-andcoming artists, they combine fine art, painting and graphics with fashion to create a new thread of this movement, summed up by the name “Concept Clothing”. The brand, which stands to empower wearers with honest individuality and confidence, hopes to launch its debut collection of designs, entitled “SELFMADE EDIT”, for Spring/ Summer 2017. Until then you can search for them online in order to satisfy your desire for individualised clothing, with the guarantee that it is an original, one-of-a-kind item.

SELFMADE

CLEAR PATH

Model: Dylan Moran at NotAnother Fashion Editor: Sarah Ruxton Photographer: Dean Ryan McDaid Styling Assistants: Anja Maye; Danielle Magee Grooming: Sharon Whelan Military Wool Coat, the Kooples; Swallow Shirt, McQ; Black Straight Slim Jean, Jacob Cohen, All at Brown Thomas

Embroidered Wool Jacket, Gucci; Matchbox Dark Jeans, AG; Brown Leather Loafers, Gucci, All at Brown Thomas.

Swallow Shirt, McQ at Brown Thomas.

Navy Cotton Crew Neck Sweatshirt; Burberry Brit Slim Back Jean; Stone Trench Coat, All Burberry at Brown Thomas; Shoes â&#x201A;¬100, Dr Martens 1461 Mono.

Embellished Print Sweatshirt, Kenzo; White Panel Front Shirt, Neil Barrett; Luxe Performance Straight Fit Jeans, 7 For All Mankind, All at Brown Thomas.

White Panel Front Shirt, Neil Barrett; Luxe Performance Straight Fit Jeans, 7 For All Mankind; Dual Layer Coat and Black Leather Knot Trainers, Givenchy, All at Brown Thomas.

Navy Rock Stud Coat, Valentino; Merino Wool Sweatshirt, Moncler; Chelsea Ankle Boots, Crockett & Jones; Matchbox Dark Jeans, AG, All at Brown Thomas.

Navy Knit Sweatshirt,Balmain; White Crew Neck Tee Shirt, Vince, Both at Brown Thomas.

Striped Cashmere Sweatshirt, Saint Laurent at Brown Thomas.

Navy Rock Stud Coat, Valentino; Merino Wool Sweatshirt, Moncler; Matchbox Dark Jeans, AG, All at Brown Thomas.

Sexuality in Menswear Throughout the 90s, the lines became more blurred, and the ideas of minimalist and unisex clothing arose with a more open Western society. Throughout the last ten years or so women’s fashion has become more and more masculine. Masculinity is something that has always been seen as empowering, while femininity was something to be avoided in menswear. The last few years has proven to be a strong and diverse time for menswear, as sexuality has been injected back into the male fashion industry and masculinity has been broken down and questioned over and over again. For the first time, mainstream men’s fashion has not only been dealing with ‘masculine’ sexuality, but it has opened up sexual orientation and ideas of masculinity around it.

– Words by Conaill O’Dwyer Illustrations by Francesco Lo Iacono

The relationship between sexuality and menswear is something that has existed for centuries, probably since fashion itself was first conceived. Before the French Revolution, fashion was about establishing your wealth, the rich were feminine and soft, with clothes changing bodies to the desired silhouettes; this was all about beauty, and in turn, was teeming in subtle sexuality. Before the 60s, there was a strong difference between menswear and womenswear in fashion, it was all based around sexuality, or more so, highlighting masculinity and hiding female sexuality. 48

Most of us, when thinking of the expression of sexuality, would associate it with womenswear, even though menswear has always been focused on men’s sexuality. The classic suit in its original form was the defining image of what a man should be. Strong, commanding, authoritative: these were the traits of male sexuality, and what I mean here is there was never supposed to be a gay identity in masculinity. (contd. overleaf →)

Sexuality in Menswear

Today, sexuality is being more openly expressed in men’s fashion; J.W Anderson is a perfect example of this. Anderson, streaming his SS16 collection exclusively on the gay hookup app, Grindr. The actual collection was a mix of casual and paired down, formal garments, with models looking more feminine. It was still, however, a masculine catwalk with traditional men’s jackets taking on a new chapter, one that included gay identities. Designers are now producing menswear for men, being just as shocking and revealing as womenswear. Rick Owens, an always playful and boundaries-pushing designer, shocked the men’s fashion industry by blatantly exposing male models on the the runway, by the use of strategically designed garments. This was one of the first times a male fashion show had the male body fully on show, whereas this sort of thing has been happening on the catwalks of London and Paris in womenswear for years. Owens broke down masculinity by objectifying the male body in such a way that has never been done before. His designs had no grounding in the traditional menswear garments, presenting a new menswear; one rooted in male sexuality. The movement of male models looking like female models is something, I think, that does not come into factor when talking about sexuality and masculinity. To break down the ideas of these two, you must examine what society sees as masculine, with regard to both traditional menswear garments and ‘male’ models. Sibling is one example where these ideas have been explored through design. Their designs are bold, pink and revealing, while harking back to traditional garments, such as shirts and ties, and throwing them in a new light, putting the two contrasting looks side by side and truly exploring sexuality. Sexuality and fashion will always go hand in hand; however, these concepts are bursting at the seams right now in menswear. With recent equality and freedom for the LGBT community, the idea of sexuality and masculinity has never before been so at the forefront of men’s fashion. Designers are slowly moulding the new masculinity, one that includes a gay identity.

Designers have dealt with sexuality in menswear for years, such as Gautier or Gianni Versace. Their interpretations have often been a hyper-masculine vision that oozed sex appeal. However, that sex appeal was always classed as being for women, never for men. This sexuality never broke down the masculinity question, only over emphasised it. Although there were obvious LGBT inspirations, there were never any designs produced for gay men.

Suits you!

Words by Lewis Cameron

On Thursday August 18th, the sun was shining, the weather was most definitely sweet and I decided to do something I rarely accomplish, I put on a suit. Not just any suit I might add, a concrete grey number, slim fit in design, with double pocket detailing and thin, white, checked lines flowing from shoulder to ankle. I am of course referring to my new Moss Bros. ensemble, recently acquired to attend the AW16 launch of Belfast Fashion Week. The perfect statement look packed full of staple essentials in modern menswear, with a nod to the classical tailoring world of Savile Row and a hint of McQueen’s flair for the spectacularly sartorial. As I sashayed my way through the room full of media guests and Fashion Week VIPs, friends and familiar faces alike complimented my suit, with one designer commenting “You suit suits” and BFW founder and creative director, Cathy Martin, walking by and exclaiming “Look at you in a suit!”. Obviously I don’t wear suits all that often. I’m a streetwear kind of guy at heart, but I am also a lover of attention to detail and high quality design. The Moss Bros. ethos, with over 165 years of tailoring experience, has both, and then some. Opening its doors in Belfast on 28th July, Moss Bros. has brought with it a welcomed wealth of sartorial knowledge and tailoring expertise to the streets of Northern Ireland for the very first time, showcasing a cohesive mix of classical suiting with a modern, youthful twist. Carrying a comprehensive selection of Moss Bros.’ own tailoring lines as well as Ted baker, DKNY, French Connection, Savoy Tailor’s Guild and Hardy Amies, alongside shirting, accessories, shoes, casual wear, outerwear and hire. Moss Bros. will undoubtedly become a one-stop shop for the tailoring die-hards, situated on Castle Lane in the heart of Belfast’s shopping district, the new Moss Bros. store is designed to allow customers space and time to select their suiting and talk to tailoring experts to find exactly the right ensemble for them. Gordon Thomson, Store Manager of Moss Bros. Belfast, said: “Belfast guys have always loved a sartorial look. Not only do we hope to help the city’s guys sharpen up their suiting through personalised options like the ‘Tailor Me’ made-to-measure service, but we also want to do it in a relaxed environment where guys feel comfortable to explore exactly what they want in a suit – and they’ll find that here!” Something I can’t imagine is going to be difficult to achieve if the collections I saw in store, and the new AW16 look book imagery I previewed, are anything to go by. It’s like a little piece of menswear heaven raining down, gifting sartorial style to all who happen to touch the Moss Bros. rays of supreme, suit power glow. They inspired and guide, helping men feel awesome whatever the occasion. To find out more about Moss Bros. new AW16 collections entitled ‘Suited & Rebooted’ visit www.moss.co.uk. 53

Backstage at DFF Photography – Stephen O’Neill Dublin Fashion Festival 2016 kicked off in City Hall Dublin as Men’s Fashion Ireland join the team to deliver a promising schedule of menswear events. We go backstage at the anticipated launch, as James Butler puts together an array of AW16 styles.

Chun Soot

Navy Trench coat, River Island; Studded Military Jacket, Dries Van Noten at Brown Thomas; Neck Scarf, New Look; Shoes, COS; Green Jumper, H&M; Chinos, COS.

Interview by Conor Davage

Having first got his foot in the door through the Irish scene, those days, for model Chun Soot, now make up only the first chapter of his rather noteworthy career. One of the most remarkable achievements is his recent work with designer label DSquared2; one which placed him on the international stage of the modelling industry. The label, headed by Dean and Dan Caten, reached new heights at their SS17 show, quite literally, as male models (Chun included) stomped the catwalk in platform, heeled boots. For Chun, it was a pleasure to work with, who he calls “some of the funniest and nicest people ever”, adding that it “would always be an honour to work with them again”. He recalls the show, telling us that “walking in the platform boots was difficult” with each model having to come in and individually practice for an hour beforehand with the designers. Since then, Soot has gained a newfound respect for the girls. In an emerging and still-developing fashion industry, it makes Irish success stories even more compelling. For anyone to break into the international market is no mean feat, especially a field as competitive as modelling. Although recently seeing himself in the pages of British GQ for his campaign with Stone Island, Soot is no stranger to glossy magazines, having been featured in Paris GQ and even Men’s Italian Vogue in the past. He still describes the experience, with a humbling honesty, as “unbelievable” when speaking to MFI, something that you would forgive a model of his calibre for if lost along the way. The AMCK signed model, having been introduced to fashion when doing a test shoot with Daniel Holfeld and his make-up artist uncle pinpoints the moment he realised that he could make a career out of modelling. He tells us it was when he began to travel for jobs and started being booked for work with high pay cheques. But modelling did not always come easy to Soot, in a career firmly based in the ability to seem aloof but alluring to the camera, he says that he was once shy and did not know how to move. Modelling, however, gave him confidence, allowing for it to become second nature. While the job gives him the opportunity to work around the world, meet some very interesting people and attend after-parties worthy of anyone’s envy, there are also downsides to the industry. Often never getting the chance to see newly made industry friends again or the fact that you “can’t have your hopes too high for anything”, he cites as examples. Although men can remain to be working models well into their 50s, Soot has a different plan for himself. While he intends to continue with modelling for a bit longer, he then hopes to work at programming, or even trying his efforts at design himself, after experiencing high profile designers first hand. The now London-based model, does not aspire towards anyone else’s career, he tells us. For now he is set on building a legacy for himself, with his own hands, rather than looking at what others do and thinking that he could have done the same – “you have to be proud of what you can achieve by being yourself, and whatever comes, it’s all a great opportunity”, one which he is very grateful for.

Photographer | Kris Antolovic Stylist | Brian Conway Model | Chun Soot at Distinct Model Management 5656

Hair | Matthew Feeney at Alan Keville using Kevin Murphy products Makeup | Sarah Jane Lanagan at Distinct Model Management using NARS cosmetics

Dungarees, Boohoo.com; Burgundy bomber, COS; Boots, COS; Polo Neck, AMI at Brown Thomas.

Tank top, H&M; Tie (Used as Neck scarf), COS; Trousers, Givenchy; Parka Coat, River Island.

Coat, MCQ by Alexander McQueen at Brown Thomas; Camo Jacket, River Island; Khaki Shirt, Dries Van Noten at Brown Thomas; Grey turtleneck, River Island; Grey Trousers, A Kind of Guise, at Nowhere, Aungier Street.

Shearling Coat, The Kooples, Brown Thomas; Black Polo, River Island; Shorts, Damir Doma at Nowhere, Aungier Street; Short Sleeve Shirt, COS

Navy Trench coat, River Island; Studded Military Jacket, Dries Van Noten, Both at Brown Thomas; Neck Scarf, New Look; Shoes, COS; Green Jumper, H&M; Chinos, COS.

Dungarees, Boohoo.com; Burgundy bomber, COS; Polo Neck, AMI at Brown Thomas.

Adidas Y-3 Yoji Yamamoto Coat, €885, Y-3 Quasa Boot, €580 both at Nowhere, Aungier Street

Oversized jacket, Damir Damo at Nowhere, Aungier Street; Utility Jacket, H&M; Burgundy Turtleneck, COS; Pinstripe Trousers, Dries Van Noten at Brown Thomas; Boots, River Island.

LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN AW16 Designers at London Collections: Men never fail to impress us each season with memorable catwalk shows and presentation. Here are some our AW16 favourites including Christopher Shannon, Katie Eary, and CMMN SWDN.

Christopher Shannon Presentation â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Photos by Caoimhe Hahn

Katie Eary Backstage â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Photos by Caoimhe Hahn

CMMNSWDN Backstage â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Photos by Caoimhe Hahn

Owen Hamze

Interview by Conor Davage

Do you remember your first modelling job? What was it for? My first modelling job as a signed model was an editorial for FGUK magazine. It was a short film with a Q&A about the modelling industry. How did you get signed? I was in Dublin actually, doing a shoot for Tony Kelly, which I had gotten through a friend. I met a stylist whilst scoffing a BLT into me. Before asking me if I was signed, he then took one or two head shots on his phone and said there would be a London agent who would be interested in representing me. It all happened pretty fast I suppose, from then. Is there anything about modelling that is more difficult than people would expect? It can get pretty frustrating at times. I think a lot of problems that models bring onto themselves is dealing with rejection. It can also get tiring when show season comes, casting after casting after casting. There is a lot of competition in modelling which makes it difficult sometimes to get work. What did you want to be when you were younger? Did you ever think that you would do modelling? Modelling never ever came into mind, ever! I was never too fashionable. I was sporty, so football was always number one for me. Is personal style important for male modelling? Who are your style influences? I don’t exactly think you need to worry about your style too much, although, I do think it’s good to have a good appearance, as it’s always good to look good I suppose. I kind of pick and choose from a lot of people, I like Versace. Do you find that social media is an important tool for getting booked? I think it’s fifty-fifty really. If the client depends on your agency shots, or your Instagram shots, I don’t really mind, it’s up to them. I keep my social media sites interesting, with photos from nights out and a mix of photos from shoots. In saying this, I think it does boost your profile and is great exposure. Let’s be honest, technology is taking over everything.

Photographer: Taine King; Owen Hamze at Brown Thomas AW16 Press Show.

Tell me about what you like to do when you’re not working. When I’m not working, I’m usually with friends. I also act, so I like to occupy myself with anything and everything to do with acting. I work in a bar and catering which keeps me busy. I also have a dog that I love; so long walks around London seem to keep me happy How does London’s nightlife compare to Dublin’s’? I’ve always said that you can never compare Dublin and London due to the size difference. Dublin is great for a small intense gig with your close pals or whatever, but London really has some lovely high class places, as well as dirty, sweaty basements full of mad heads. I’ve heard recently that Dublin is becoming the new London for fashion, do you agree with that? I can’t agree or disagree to be honest, as I’ve had two jobs in Dublin my whole life, so I can’t really tell. Men’s fashion in general is stepping up in Dublin, I think.

nine crows www.shopninecrows.com

22 temple lane south, temple bar, dublin 2.

2016 marks a milestone event in the Magee story as the iconic Irish brand celebrates 150 years of great Irish design with stunning AW16 menswear collections. The collections showcase Magee 1866’s expertise in fabric, designed and woven in Donegal, and garment creation, that has been amassed over the last 150 years. Inspiration has been drawn from the brand’s rich fabric archives, featuring luxurious cashmere and lambswool blends and handwoven Donegal tweeds peppered with colourful neps. The 150th Anniversary Collection, designed in celebration of Magee 1866’s sesquicentennial year, features natural fabrics embodied in timeless garments with both modern and retro styling, including tailored fit three-piece suits, unstructured jackets and sophisticated, functional outerwear garments complimented by luxurious cashmere knitwear, trousers and cotton shirts. To shop the collections visit Magee of South Anne Street, Magee at Arnotts, Magee of Donegal, leading menswear stockists nationwide and www.magee1866.com