SPECIAL EDITION
LC:M SS16
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SPECIAL EDITION CONTRIBUTORS Michelle Walsh Adam Gaffey James Butler Caoimhe Hahn Sherion Mullings
LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN June 2015 brought the fashion press back to London for the Spring Summer Collections. Looking around at the crowds and well-known faces, we cannot underestimate the growing power of menswear. Still in its infancy it is by no means a small event tacked on to the end of Fashion Week. It has established a reputable schedule of designer’s presentations and events that delivers on quality. Already the players are beginning to emerge, as the innovative and daring diverge from the traditional and steadfast. Neither one superior merely solidifying their voice and contributing to the growing conversation about men’s fashion. Words Michelle Walsh
Photographer Caoimhe Hahn
BAARTMANS & SIEGEL
Photographer Caoimhe Hahn
KIT NEALE
Photographer Caoimhe Hahn
Photographer Caoimhe Hahn
CHRISTOPHER SHANNON
Photographer Caoimhe Hahn
“It’s the story of a country determined to shrug off the drudgery of austerity and look forward” Patrick Grant, Designer
E. TAUTZ
Photographer Caoimhe Hahn
FEATURE SHOW
TOPMAN Words Adam Gaffey Photographer Caoimhe Hahn
Let high street brand Topman bring you back to the old school with their latest collection for SS16. The collection celebrates the undeniably influential culture of Northern Soul during the seventies in Northern England. Models embraced the catwalk with attitude, while laced in an abundance amount of flamboyant colours, and classic retro garments that have been worked in contemporary ways to suit the modern day man. This season the flares are wide. Pastels appeared on anoraks, skimpy shorts and fitted cycling gear, while leather jackets were paired with printed turtlenecks. Double denim looks embroidered with patch-print work, and chunky padlock chains hanging from the boys’ necks. Neutral colours appeared in wide striped bomber jackets, short sleeve shirts, and over-sized chinos. By re-inventing these statement pieces from over thirty years ago, Topman pulled off the perfect 70’s show this season.
“Look no further than House of Holland, Topman Design, Coach and Kit Neale for a flash of fun. Words also come into play in Topman Design’s collection with a rock and roll rebellious edge with ‘Let’s Riot’ badges sewn onto biker inspired looks.” Stefan Maurel CEO StylePilot
FEATURE SHOW
CASELY-HAYFORD
Words James Butler Photographer Caoimhe Hahn
Optical prints, a fusion of sportswear and tailoring gave Casely-Hayford’s SS15 collection an inimitably eclectic flair, offering a daring aesthetic that managed to attain that seldom-achieved fashion feataccessibility. Traditional menswear silhouettes were manipulated, with longer length tops and cropped trousers being layered under full length bombers and deconstructed blazers. Stripes, tropical prints and bold geometric shapes created an all-encompassing cityscape of cultural promiscuity, often acting as the accompanying pieces to more traditional menswear couture. Primary colours and varying stripes set the runway alight, with a vibrant red two-button coat acting as a personal favourite of MFI’s. Outerwear featured rather prominently, posing the possibility that many of the looks on show could have seamlessly translated into any of the January shows.
Photographer Caoimhe Hahn
KATIE EARY
Photographer Michelle Walsh
SIBLING
FEATURE SHOW
CHRISTOPHER SHANNON
Words Adam Gaffey Photographer Michelle Walsh
Liverpool-born designer Christopher Shannon, may give you serious holiday envy with his next SS16 collection. The rebellious designer lit up the Old Sorting Office in London, entertaining the crowd with his masculine sportswear aesthetic, offbeat details, and his renowned patchwork which dominated throughout. Foam-haired models strutted down the catwalk as if they just arrived in from a wild beach party. Wearing fluorescent coloured shorts, oversized mesh t-shirts, and open bikinis dangling from their shoulders, while others were kitted out in denim-on-denim looks, zip-lined street wear, and deconstructed jackets that provided asymmetrical silhouettes. Shirts and shorts were disassembled and ‘taped’ back together, while lighter and fuel graphics featured on knits with the words ‘Damaged’ and ‘Needy’, continuing Christopher’s playful use of typography in his designs. Chunky industrial-inspired shoes came in a variety of colours with CAT footwear (one of his collaboration lines) and skinny silver chains with Zippo lighters hanging as pendants, an unorthodox accessory from Shannon that adds extra heat to this superb collection.
FEATURE SHOW
AGI & SAM
Words James Butler Photographer Michelle Walsh
and offered a formidable through-line to each piece.
It was stars and stripes forever at Agi & Sam this season, with the design house sending their models breezing down the runway with star silhouettes spray painted onto their faces, and a barrage of statement stripes dominating their SS16 attire.
A palette of crisp whites and cool blues were accompanied by camel tones, with the latter adding depth to the often clinical hues that it surrounded.
Silhouettes were relaxed but purposeful, with the frequent inclusion of pyjama stripes adding an eccentric juxtaposition to structured jackets and traditional outerwear. Stripes were varying in shape and direction throughout the collection,
Fabrics were varying and deliciously detailed, with matte leathers and heavyduty plastics dominating a multitude of looks. Shearling will be continuing from one season to the next if Agi & Sam have anything to do with it - collars of the winter-white fabric lined a number of otherwise summer-ready jackets.
FEATURE SHOW
CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN
Words Adam Gaffey Photographer Michelle Walsh
Christopher Raeburn sent us into a jungle frenzy with his tropical and military influenced SS16 collection. Taking inspiration from the biodiverse destination of Borneo, and Tom Harrison - a natural scientist who once spent time there as a soldier during WW2; the selection of garments explored the elements of the wildlife, the natural resources, and the cultures that can be found on this stunning island. Applauded for his ability to recycle military fabrics and transform them into innovative designs, Raeburn presented beautifully woven fabrics including cork, seen on panelled t-shirts and crew neck sweaters, and parachute materials in army toned hooded jackets and crisp layered shorts. Desirable prints employed throughout long-line coats, knitted sweaters, and cotton tracksuits, with camouflage, maps, and orangutans all claiming their own territory. His large ape also inspired leather backpacks, claiming his throne, as the new king of the jungle.
Photographer Caoimhe Hahn
MAHARISHI
RORY PARNELL MOONEY
PRESENTATION
TOMMY HILFIGER
Words James Butler
Given that this June marked his inaugural LC:M appearance, it came as no surprise that Mr. Hilfiger pulled out all the stops when presenting his SS15 collection. Located at the brand’s flagship store in Knightsbridge, Tommy was in attendance to showcase the brand’s new take on tailoring, where suits in light-weight fabrics were punctuated with classic, preppy ensembles that fused the brand’s traditional elements with subtle, contemporary distinctions. TH Flex was also introduced – a capsule collection of four limited edition suits created using high performance and environmentally sourced fabrics. Designed in collaboration with Tommy Hilfiger Tailored’s brand ambassador Rafael Nadal, the pieces offered a strong, vibrant element to the presentation. Classic silhouettes were lifted with vibrant primary colours of reds and yellows, while stripes played an integral role in maintaining that classic, All-American convention with which the brand has become synonymous. Hilfiger’s ever popular underwear range also made an appearance, with a group of models (all of whom have us seriously reconsidering our cancelled gym memberships) sporting an array of classic undergarments in a traditional locker room setting. Hats off to Mr. Hilfiger for a triumphant LC:M debut!
Photographer Caoimhe Hahn
CRAIG GREEN
FEATURE SHOW
STREET ST YLE
Words Michelle Walsh Photographer Sherion Mullings The common denominator across every fashion week, womens or mens, London or Milan, is street style. It’s as entertaining and inspiring as the runway if you have patience for the pageantry. For the tourists that come across it, they look puzzled, but often pleased, at the spectacle. But for the regular attendees it’s a part of the industry. For new photographers, it is often the beginning of their career. The First Lesson. Street style photography is free, and outside the doors of LC:M you have hundreds of willing models with business cards and eccentric hair. Here we showcase a series of moments and portraits as captured by talented street style photographer Sherion Mullings over the course of LC:M.
Photographer Sherion Mullings
Photographer Sherion Mullings
Photographer Sherion Mullings
Photographer Sherion Mullings
Photographer Sherion Mullings
Photographer Sherion Mullings
Photographer Sherion Mullings
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