MFI Magazine SS18 Issue 'Prophecy'

spring/summer 18

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cover shoot in association with Primark

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www.mfimagazine.com

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12 INTERVIEW: COFFEE X KICKS

20 FEATURE: SEOUL FASHION WEEK

23 EDITORIAL: LITHOSPHERE

76 EDITORIAL: RETROSPECTIVE

92 INTERVIEW: EMPORIUM

96 BARBER PROFILE: DANIELLE RITCHIE

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16 FEATURE FUTURE OF THE PAST / 32 INTERVIEW: SOPHIE MURPHY / 40 FEATURE: COS X SALON DEL MOBILE / 54 FEATURE: COLOR PALETTE / 58 FEATURE: LUX DELUXE/ 60 FEATURE: TECH PARADOX

36 INTERVIEW: SMCUSTOMS

42 EDITORIAL: SPECTRUM

62 EDITORIAL: NEW MILLENNIUM

106 BTS: TOPMAN DESIGN SS18

110 EDITORIAL: SIBLING

125 NXT SZN: LFW:M AW18

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72 INTERVIEW: SECURE STUDIOS / 88 FEATURE: SWOOSH SWOOSH / 98 FEATURE: TOMMY HILFIGER X LEWIS HAMILTON / 100 FEATURE: CLOTHES OF ETHICS / 104 HOLIDAY ESSENTIALS / 108 LIVE FAST DIE YOUNG / 121 SOCIAL: MFI SOCIAL

CONTRIBUTORS

Editor-in-Chief

Graphic Design

Photographers

Feature Writers

Adam Gaffey

Deirdre Fallon

Alex Hutchinson

Aoife Ni Mhurchu

Keith Meehan

Lucy Mortell

Art Director

Fashion Editors

Megan Gallagher

David Browne

Adam McKiernan

Tien Nguyen

Eoghan Fay

Dean McDaid

Colette Fitzpatrick

Caoimhe Hahn

Felipe Santibañez

spring/summer 18

spring/summer 18

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Model Aubrey O Mahony is shot by Alex Hutchinson and styled by Adam Gaffey for Cover 1

On cover 2 Steve Marais photographs Luke Volker with styling by Darren Feeney

Men’s Fashion Ireland Magazine, independent bi-annual publication. ISSN 20097654. Printed by Turner’s Printing, 198 Rosemount Park Drive, Rosemount Business Park, Ballycoolin, Dublin 11

Ireland’s menswear industry has continuously developed in all aspects over the past three years. A fresh wave of talent is now at the forefront of the scene and we are continuously seeing an exciting line-up of new innovative businesses because of this. An exciting new culture has formed and the Nike Sean Wotherspoon 97/1 release has proved that there’s a strong appetite for street wear and footwear, and a demand for product exclusivity within the market.

Young entrepreneurs like Robbie Kavanagh who hosts ‘Emporium’, an occasional pop-up hub for young Irish designers to showcase and sell their designs, James Fagan and Phil Boyle who are leading Coffee & Kicks, designer Sophie Murphy who recently represented Ireland in Nike’s London: On Air competition in, ST. Street Sneakers, and Stephen May of SM Customs are all contributing to this movement within Dublin.

To build on this hype, Brown Thomas extended their range by introducing new contemporary brands such as Heron Preston and Gosha Rubchinskiy and opened their space to welcome footwear retailer, Offspring. Primark and other retailers continue to provide buying, merchandising, and design roles within the sector, and Life Style Sports launched their nationwide trainer council campaign supporting young creatives.

With all this in mind, springs an idea of opportunity, in a growing market that has a massive amount of potential.

But how can we build a foundation and scheme for young talent to get the correct support they need to run a substantial business? How can we support them in showcasing their designs and ideas to wider audiences -and give them a platform for innovation and creativity.

In our spring summer 2018 issue, ‘PROPHECY’, we highlight and support the people making a difference in the future for coming generations. The people who are taking the important risks and the creatives who are using their initiative to bring ideas to fruition and extract.

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Adam Gaffey, Editor-in-Chief

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Jacket: Stone Island Alligator Camouflage Field €630.00 / Print Shorts: Stone Island Alligator €290.00 / T-Shirt: Stussy Stone Fire On €45.00 / Oversized Show Trainer: Alexander McQueen €395.00. All available at Brown Thomas.

ABOVE THE WAIST Topman Design SS18 Season after season, we have watched the low-rise and tighter than tight tailored trouser grow to become an essential staple piece of every man’s wardrobe. This spring summer however, we see waistbands rise and legs loosen as names such as Fendi, Acne and Kenzo embrace the 1950s trend of high waisted trousers.

This key look for SS18 invokes a casual-luxe sense of style, that can bring a modernised feel to the traditional trend.

A significant detail to keep in mind when following this look, is to focus on the slimming and elongating silhouette of the higher waistband. This can be easily achieved with a simple tuck or by adding a statement belt for more emphasis on the waist. To avoid creating an overdressed look, try pairing your high waisted trouser with sneakers and a tucked

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tee - clean and simple.

COFFEE & KICKS Words: Adam Gaffey

The footwear culture in Dublin is dominating

Pictured below is James Fagan

the scene right now. We are seeing ques for

& Phil Boyle by Lorin Gannon

the likes of Sean Whotherspoon’s release with Nike, Offspring opened in Brown Thomas, and independent store Nowhere continue to offer exclusivity amongst their collections. With this demand, a force is created to support it and as the leaders of the pack, James Fagan & Phil Boyle talk to us about their regular event Coffee & Kicks.

Tell us about Coffee & Kicks! How did this idea come about?

It started initially from me (James) wanting to take photos of Phil’s shoes. We talked about trying to create an Instagram account that would help put Ireland on the map internationally, and about the lack of events for people into sneakers locally, so we figured we’d try running one ourselves and see if the interest was really there. It was! We

called it Coffee & Kicks because we had the opportunity to use a room in Coffeeangel for the first big meet-up, and we wanted it to be open to all ages, so we didn’t want to do it in a pub or somewhere like that.

What have you been planning recently?

Any exciting projects?

We’ve just launched the first episode of our Coffee & Kicks podcast, and we’ve recorded the next one. It’s on Soundcloud now but by the time you’re reading this you should be able to find it on iTunes and the other podcast sources. We’re continuing our regular events every 2 months but also planning a few side events (photographer meet-ups, clothes customisation, etc), and we’re looking into running a bigger event involving retailers and brands later in the year. In the meantime, we’re building relationships with the shops and brands and have started doing work with the likes of Nowhere, Brown Thomas and even PUMA. Who is involved in producing each event?

What’s involved?

The regular event is organised by myself and Phil, but really the people make it. Coffeeangel

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have been a great host space for us helping us along the way with different rooms, and

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the city centre location is perfect. The event itself lives or dies though the people who come enjoying enjoy with each other and interacting with the selection of kicks on display. It’s a very organic feel, so we don’t want to over produce it. However, as the bigger events start coming together there will be more production. In an ideal world we’d love to host full scale launch events for the big brands here in Dublin with guest musicians and all that, but we’ll work our way up to that!

What’s your goal for Coffee & Kicks? What’s your objective?

At the simplest level, we’re trying to help facilitate the sneaker and streetwear community here in Dublin to be able to meet in the real world more often and give them access to experiences they maybe haven’t had before. That might be as simple as seeing a really rare shoe in the real world, being able to hold it and photograph it. One day it might be giving people the opportunity to go to international product launches or take part in designing or customising a piece of clothing or a sneaker. The objective ultimately is to create a sense of community in Dublin and Ireland around this scene we all love, to foster that community and help drive opportunities for people within that community to grow, and to put Ireland on the map globally in this culture.

How do you feel the sneaker market is growing in Ireland? It’s great to see such hype over the likes of the Wotherspoons that we wouldn’t usually see.

I think my favourite shoe this year material wise would have to be the Atmos Air Max 1, but although I love the materials I don’t think I could pull it off on foot. For that reason I would have to say the

There has definitely been an explosion of interest in sneaker culture Sean Wotherspoon Air Max 1/97. The corduroy upper and the over the last few years, obviously driven by the hype releases like velvet inner is just a win win really. Sean and Nike killed it with that Yeezys, Sean Wotherspoons, Air Max 1 OGs, etc, but it definitely shoe in my opinion. There hasn’t been much in the way of hype extends beyond that. Dublin is definitely on a par with other big cities releases that haven’t landed recently, but it’ll be interesting to see the in Europe now for both access to and interest in sneakers, excluding public’s reaction to the Yeezy 500 once they land. Rumour is they’ll the mega cities like London and Paris obviously, but it’s great to see be relatively easy to get online (although no shops in Dublin seem to top tier stuff on foot in Dublin more often than ever before. We’re not be stocking them). there yet, but we’re certainly heading in the right direction. You can see the effect trickle down too. Our office working friends are always being asked about where they got their sneakers by their colleagues, and slowly but surely the whole office eventually ups its sneaker game!

What’s your favourite Instagram account to follow for sneakers?

Why?

When does your next event take place? What can we expect to see?

The next event will be in mid-July, so slightly further away than normal, but I have to finish my leaving cert first! We’re still working out the specifics of that one, but we hope to up to the scale of the event and have some more activities at it. Keep your eyes on the Instagram @

For keeping up to date with what’s happening in the sneaker world it’s coffeeandkicks_ and you’ll be the first to know. probably @sneakernews or @thedropdate. @highsnobiety obviously get a lot of exclusives too so it’s always worth keeping an eye. Phil and I both like to follow a lot of individuals in the game too, creative people with opinions are the best. My friend @morprime for instance takes great shots and is never afraid to share his honest opinions on the scene.

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What’s been your favourite release so far this year? What release do you think was over hyped?

What are your plans for the rest of 2018? What’s next in line for you both?

For me once the leaving cert is out of the way it’s a combination of growing Coffee & Kicks even more, working with more people in the scene, maybe interning somewhere cool, and generally getting stuck in. For Phil he’s got DJ and music production projects as well continuing with Coffee & Kicks, so keep an eye out for him at the festivals as either Ghostboy or as part of Mother DJs.

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FUTURE OF THE PAST

Author: David Browne Images: SS18 Runway Show

by Gosha Rubchinskiy

17th February 2018. London fashion week. A playful and

The first major step forward was made in 2006 with Angela Ahrendts’

triumphant display and celebration of Christopher Bailey’s

new position as CEO. She realised that a total brand overhaul was

seventeen years at Burberry, drawn to a joyous finale as Cara

necessary. And a brand as large as Burberry needed to deliver the

Delevingne prances around the complex in a showstopper, body-

same product and experience globally. To ensure this, she shut down

length shearling cloak adorned by the colours of the rainbow.

the US factory and dropped the design team in Hong Kong. Alongside

The whole space is charged with the nostalgic energy of The

more shutdowns and adjustments, Bailey had now regained the

Communard’s 1986 UK disco hit “Don’t leave me this way” and

reigns and had full creative control on the future of Burberry. Although

the audience treated with an electric display of all things Burberry,

the brand was now at a large financial loss, they were back on track.

past and present. A collection Bailey aptly named “Time”.

By 2008, Burberry became one of the fastest growing luxury brands

Christopher Bailey takes his final bow as the creative director of the brand. The spirit in the room has reached an all-time High- just like the

In an interview with the Harvard Business review in 2013, Ahrendts

successful world of Burberry.

spoke about a new marketing strategy that would bring Burberry

Rewind fourteen years. Luxury fashion had become one of the fastest growing sectors in the world and Burberry were not seeing the fruits.

Why? The core identity of the brand had become lost and the famous nova check print was thrown on anything. At this time, the brand had 23 licenses across the world and each one producing their interpretation of a product that would sell. A Burberry print umbrella?

- sure. A Burberry jacket for my chihuahua? - of course! Exclusive

to the top. And that was to market toward those who have no current knowledge of the brand- millennials. At the time, this idea was unprecedented and according to Ahrendts, “The decision was not without controversy; we were choosing to aim squarely at a generation that had no current knowledge of Burberry’s core product.

We believed that these customers (millennials) were being ignored by our competitors. This was our white space”

high fashion? - no. The exclusivity of Burberry had become equal

Five years later, 2018. Burberry has sprung to the forefronts

to that of a supreme box logo tee on eBay (Call it out Diet Prada!).

of the luxury fashion scene due to both Angela Ahrendts’s risky

Not to mention how the Burberry print had now become staple in the

marketing techniques and Bailey’s creative direction. As one of the

everyday uniform of what later became known as “scally” or “chav”

aforementioned “millennials”, I caught wind of the Burberry brand in

culture. Scally, a word drawn from the term “scallywag” is defined

2017 at the Gosha Rubchinskiy and Burberry collaboration shown

as “A roguish self-assured young person, typically a man, who is

in ST. Petersburg last June. The collection was basically a love letter

boisterous, disruptive, or irresponsible.” Usually wearing branded

to the Russian rave scene in the 90’s. A green laser searched the

tracksuit bottoms tucked into socks, a Burberry cap and brandishing a

smoke-filled St. Petersburg location to signal the start of the show.

bottle of Buckfast wine on the backstreets. This was not the image that

A rapid flood of Burberry print, Gosha sportswear- clad street cast

Bailey wanted for the brand, but it was quickly becoming the norm.

models came down the runway, walking to the industrial beats of

The brand had eventually become corroded through overproduction, irrelevant products and wide accessibility to the signature print. How

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on the market.

would the brand recover their proud English image that we are familiar with today? Bailey had a lot of work to do.

Rubchinskiy’s musical accomplice Buttechno. Styled by none other than Lotta Volkova, this was a dream team. The rave was alive, and people loved it. This once-off, rebellious cross between two starkly contrasting cultures and brand images left the world craving

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and Matt Smith in a black and white clip engaging in a deep stare before it glitches to colour- the pet shop boys “Always on my mind” springs to life. Cara is wearing Burberry trainers as gloves? Lots of cheesy grins and fake snow. Between the Gosha collaboration, and the vast range of young talent that Burberry feature in their ad campaigns and runway shows, I think it is safe to say that Burberry are certainly catering for all audiences.

Most recently, Bailey presented his final collection about his journey with Burberry and reconstructed the Classic print to incorporate the LGBTQ gay pride flag. Bailey said “My final collection here at Burberry is dedicated to- and in support of- some of the best and brightest organizations supporting LGBTQ youth around the word. There has never been a more important time to say that in our diversity lies our strength, and our creativity.” And I couldn’t agree more. Bailey even paid homage to the infamous chav look that almost ruined the brandsending models down the runway in a Burberry Cap, Windbreaker, more. However, many thought this move was perhaps too bold, considering the difficulties regarding brand image that Burberry knew all too well of. Gosha Rubchiniskiy is a brand that explores the post-Soviet generation style as imagined through the eyes of Russian fashion designer Georgiy Aleksandrovich Rubchinskiy. His collections commonly feature inspiration from rebellious youth, commonly alluded to as the Russian parallel of English Chav culture. Many thought that this collaboration felt ironic and hypocritical, considering Burberry’s past and their previous struggles with image. But according to Bailey, this image is part of the brands history and should be embraced.

Burberry have also made the clever decision to collaborate with Doncaster native film maker Alisdair Mclellan on their campaigns.

Mclellan produces warm, uplifting and nostalgic advertisements through a mixture of digital and 16mm DV tape, cinematic shots and quick zoom shots of different items of clothing. His previous works include brands Miu Miu Calvin Klein, countless magazines like Vogue and 032c and music videos for the XX. In an advertisement for Burberry trench coats and scarves, we see models, actors and

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musicians like Loyle Carner, Harris Dickinson, Jean Campbell and Blondey McCoy interact with the beautiful Yorkshire countryside in a soft black and white. In a Christmas advert, we see Cara Delevingne

hoop earrings and a rather chic plastic bag in hand. If Bailey’s final collection had any message behind it, it’s to truly embrace everythinggood and bad. Ironic fashion is my personal favourite, but that topic is for another time. Perhaps Burberry should listen to Ru Paul more- “If you can’t love yourself, how in the hell you gon’ love anybody else?

Can I get an amen?”

Burberry are a great example of how to tackle the main threat in the fashion industry- Time. Over time, they realised the necessity of remaining loyal to their heritage and constantly referencing their past, considering the good and bad times encountered along the way to create a concrete future. To succeed in the future, it is often necessary to revisit the past.

Burberry has recently named Riccardo Tisci its new creative officer, after his departure from Givenchy. He will present his first outing for Burberry in September of 2018. With great hope Tisci will continue the rapid momentum gained by Bailey and continue to notice the value in luxury streetwear and us millennials. If there Is anything I have learned from this article, it is that we simply cannot predict what will happen in the future… but time will tell.

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RIVER ISLAND SS18

If you’re used to the street style game from fashion weeks around the world, Seoul Fashion Week might still surprise you; it is on a whole other level. People pose for hours outside the show and they don’t just stand

SEOUL FASHION WEEK

around, they work it. The men far outnumber the women and often travel in giant packs (or at least pairs). One thing is certain: it is very serious business. The style on display run the gamut from early 20th century suiting to classic punks, though a very current Hypebeast look, with retro and sportswear nods, reigns supreme. Oh, and the nineties are very much back.

There is little fear of colour and everything is

Words and photos by Colette Fitzpatrick

in the carefully expressed details of the outfits.

A passing Londoner commented disdainfully that the looks were comprised of “the ugliest clothes you can find with a bucket hat on top” but, while there were certainly the regular

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crowd of people dressed crazily clearly just for attention, Seoul seems to be genuinely and desperately in love with fashion.

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E

H T I L

S O

R E H P

Stylist: Darren Feeney Photographer: Steve Marais Model: Luke Volker (Boss Models) Grooming – Karina Berg

All available at Brown Thomas

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Varsity Jacket: €505, Kent & Curwen, Logo Sweater:€590, Saint Laurent, Jeans: €220, Acne Studios

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LEFT: Logo Sweatshirt:€185 Track Pants, €125, both Gosha Rubchinskiy x Adidas

All available at Brown Thomas

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THIS PAGE: Shirt: €405 Drawstring Jeans: €380, both Off-White Trainers: €560, Valentino

THIS PAGE: Stripe Shirt: €89 Track Pants:€139 both Calvin Klein Jeans, Trainers: €395, Alexander McQueen

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RIGHT: Bomber Jacket: €550 Logo T-shirt: €160; Jeans: €220, all Acne Studios Trainers:€650, Gucci All available at Brown Thomas

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LEFT: Track pants: €295 T-shirt: €230, both Palm Angels, Trainers:€495, Givenchy

THIS PAGE:

All available at Brown Thomas

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Satin Bomber Jacket: €1,980 Logo Jumper: €690 Logo Pants: €490 Trainers, €650, all Gucci

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Sports Jacket: €1,300 Striped Shirt: €590 Trousers: €550 Trainers:€470, all Prada All available at Brown Thomas

All available at Brown Thomas

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Denim shirt: €150 T-Shirt: €90 Chinos: €185, all AMI

INTERVIEW: SOPHIE MURPHY

Sophie Murphy is taking the scene by final year. storm as one of the most exciting designer’s Ireland has to offer right now. Her designs are a contemporary take on street wear and is very much inspired by youth culture.

Sophie attended the Nike London air event in April where she has the chance to meet Skepta and have her designs developed throughout the event. Watch out for this one!

You interned with Simone Rocha in Dublin for a while. How was that experience, working for such a credible designer?

Interning with Simone Rocha was such a great experience. I spent the past 3 summers there & I learnt so much. It is great to see all the different areas of work within the business and how they all come together for example production, textiles & sample rooms. I worked backstage at her London Fashion Week

Tell us about your background in fashion Show & got to go to Paris for Showrooms design? Where do/did you go to college? which was amazing. It was great to see the What course did you take?

From school I went to Sallynoggin for one year where I studied a PLC in Fashion Design.

At the time I did not know whether I wanted to study design or fashion industry, so I did not want to commit to a 4-year long college course. Straight away I realised how much I loved sewing though & couldn’t imagine myself ever doing anything else. Before going to Sallynoggin the only sewing I had ever done was just little things for myself. I

garments coming to life in the show after seeing the from the beginning being made.

Paris Showrooms was particularly interesting for me as it was my first experience ever seeing how the Selling Showrooms work so it was amazing to see how it works for such a huge label. I gained so much knowledge from working with Simone Rocha as you are constantly surrounded by amazing people who have worked in the industry for so many years & their skills are endless.

got my first sewing machine when I was 16 What approach do you take when it but always just played around on it seeing comes to your own designs? What’s the how straight I could sew lines etc. After my most important part of the process? first year in Sallynoggin I decided to move to the Grafton Academy to study design.

The Grafton focuses on the technical side of design in terms of pattern drafting which is

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something that really stood out to me. It was the best decision ever, I am currently in my

I always design for myself, I have been told so many times that it is not a good way to design but it is the only way that works for me. My brain works in a weird way & I just have to go with my own instinct on things. If it is something I wouldn’t wear, realistically I

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won’t make it because I will have no interest blazers etc. As soon as I saw the London On What are the challenges that young Irish in the garment. I get bored easily & have the Air competition I straight away entered. To be designers face today? How can we go worst attention span, so it is important for me honest I never imagined I would get through about solving them? to really want to make what I am designing. I just had so much fun with the entry playing The most important design process for me is around with different shoes on photoshop, making a statement on a garment. Something making hybrids etc. My inspiration was that makes it different and stand out in a looking at London - the city of two cities. crowd. Preferably something that straight There is a great divide in London due to away people would be able to pick out as segregation. For example, the borough of one of my designs whether it be through the Kensington and Chelsea is famous as home of colours I used or little details. I find it hard to celebrities (higher class), but it has pockets of buy clothes in stores, I feel they don’t really deprivation like the housing estate where the cater for the style I like. So, I see this as a 24 story Grenfell Tower stood (lower class). niche and play off it when designing. I love My shoe design is to unite the people of to put a girly twist on my design by playing London through the word ‘Nike’ and imagery around with colour and giving oversized ‘Tick’. The word Nike would stand out to pieces a girly vibe. I try to design for ‘the the prestigious people of London, who are rebellious youth’-a group of people in my age interested in literacy. Whereas the Tick Logo who express themselves through their clothing. stands out to the youths & rebellious teens as Tell us about your entry to the Nike London Air competition? Where did you find inspiration for your design?

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I have always been the biggest Nike fan, from as far back as I can remember I have been wearing Nikes; Nike iD’s, dunks,

logos make a statement. The outside of my shoe is a different colour to the inside, but they join in the middle as one. Like London.

Getting to chat to Skepta and hear him say how much he loved my shoe was just a whole new level of cool.

I think two of the biggest challenges would have to be a lack of financial support & lack of job opportunities in design. A lot of people do not realise how much design costs, other than fabric there are so many other expenditures that realistically without support a student coming out of college will not be able to survive. It is pretty discouraging and could very easily turn you off trying to start up your own label because the fear of not surviving financially is pretty big. I feel there should be a company who would take on young designers, let them continue to work away on their own collections and try help them promote their brand and get it stocked in stores. Like Fashion East. It is very hard to get that big break unless you get lucky, especially in Ireland anyway where there are so few opportunities in the fashion sector. It is easy to fall into a hole of interning for a designer and maybe never leaving that internship then. So, there is no time for you to do your own thing

and eventually you will feel its too late to go is being hand made from scratch. I feel this ‘Sewphie’ as at the minute I am working on back and try start up your own brand. You is something a lot of people are unaware of, my final college collection which is sportswear lose your own niche along the way.

so much time goes into making a garment & I find it hard to work on both projects at the

Most of our talent sail the sea to London

for example even down to making your own same time as it all gets jumbled into one in

to pursue a full-time career. Do you ever

pattern & calcio’s.

think Ireland will ever be a substantial What changes do you think need to be residence for young talent to build a made within the Irish industry? brand?

I feel there needs to be more diversity. Some

I do think Fashion in Ireland is growing, stores in Dublin now have the coolest men’s people are more aware of what is happening sections with lots of up and coming cool for sure. There are so many cool fashion menswear brands, but the same is not offered events popping up which is great. They are for women. Men’s fashion is growing but I just uniting the love of fashion in Dublin. There don’t feel the same is happening for women. is a lot of creativity out there but in terms of I also think more needs to be put into Dublin marketing & selling however I just don’t think Fashion Festival, majority of countries now

my head. So for the minute I need to finish up in college and then I will finally be free to do my own thing with ‘Sewphie’. So far 2018 has been so busy for me, I won DCU Young Designer, Ida Broen wore one of my vests to Oslo Fashion Week where it was then featured on HighSnobiety which was insane.

I also have some other cool projects coming up, but I just can’t say much about them at the minute, but I am defiantly excited about the future.

Ireland can cater for young designers. There have their own fashion week and in fairness is too much hype around branded clothing in in Dublin it is pretty bleak. label, not necessarily because of the design.

People are not willing to pay high prices for young designer’s pieces because they could get something hyped for the same price. The hyped piece realistically cost nothing to make in a factory whereas a young designers piece

What are your plans for 2018? What are your ambitions?

One of my main aims for 2018 is start up my own label and give it my everything. I am in the process of making a website where I will be able to sell my designs. Once I finish up in college I will have time to work on my label

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Ireland, people want things because of the

SMCUSTOMS

Twenty-four-year-old Stephen May from Lexlip, Co. Kildare has recently taken the spotlight thanks to his custom designed trainers for, SMCUSTOMS. Back in March, Stephen collaborated with Life Style Sports and has previously worked with Kildare Village on personalising product for consumers. This process is becoming more and more popular in the market, as it gives your pieces a unique identity that is suitable for your style.

Where did you go to college?

If so, where and what do you study. I went to IT Blanch for 2 years & was studying Computing. I had absolutely no interest in it, so I dropped out at the end of 2nd year.

Tell us how you began customising trainers? How

Hobbies?

many pairs did you sacrifice when you were starting

I go to the Gym most mornings before I start my work

out?

for the day then in the evenings I usually have football/ I have been mad into trainers for as long as I can hurling training. I like to stay active and feel like I’m most remember, and I used to buy at least one or two pairs productive when I keep myself busy.

Tell us about your background in art and design? Would you consider this as one of your natural interests? I always have had a great interest in art and design, but I didn’t do art in school or anything and I never really considered myself as much of an ‘Artist’. I just really enjoy designing and creating things & I find it very rewarding every time when you see the result of something you’ve worked on for

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a long period of time.

a week without fail when I started working and making money at a young age. I had seen a pair of blue Nike Huaraches that I really wanted that had been customised by someone in America and he was charging around €400 for them and I couldn’t afford them at the time.

So, I looked at getting paints for the shoes & realised it would be a lot cheaper to paint them myself. I must have ruined around 6/7 different pairs of shoes in the space of a week trying to customise them but eventually I was happy with one of the pairs I painted and posted them on Facebook. Some people started asking me to paint their

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shoes but as I was still only starting off and had just ruined

very well and since then I have been asked to be a part

several pairs of my own shoes I was hesitant about doing

of the Lifestyle Sports Trainer Council. I also just finished

anyone else’s for a while.

my second Customisation Event with them where I was

When was it that you decided to turn this hobby into

in-store offering complementary customisation of shoes

a business? What motivated you?

I always knew that I wanted to eventually work for myself & always kind of thought that if I was putting the hours that I was working for someone else in a job that I hated into something that I enjoy and want to do that something could come from it. I had just come home from San Diego after spending the summer of

me with a pair of Air Max 90’s on the side of a couple of Dublin Buses and also on some Billboards around Dublin too, so I have to say a huge thanks to them for their continued support and it has been great to be associated with such a big company.

If you were to dedicate yourself to one brand only, would you side with Nike or Adidas? For what reason?

2016 there on a J1 and I was supposed

I really like both brands but if I had to choose I would pick

to come home early to do a couple of

Nike. Arguably the world’s number one sneaker brand,

repeat exams, but I never did so I ended

Nike has been one of my favourite brands since I was

up dropping out of college. Before I left

a kid and my first pair of shoes and football boots were

I was customising a couple of pairs of

Nike. Even the Nike ‘Swoosh’ itself is so Iconic they can

shoes for friends/people I knew but didn’t

make it look good on literally anything they bring out.

take it too seriously. Once I got home in August I had no idea what I wanted to do with my life, so I thought why not give it a shot? I set up a business Instagram account and after a couple of weeks I built a website through the e-commerce platform Shopify.

Things started to pick up gradually once I had gained a decent following on Instagram & had the website sorted and by Christmas I was inundated with orders. I was still working part-time in SuperValu at the time, but I realised then that if I stuck at it and kept working hard I wouldn’t need to be working another job and could live off what I was making from my business.

What’s your favourite Instagram account to follow for custom sneakers?

Where else do you find inspiration?

What are your plans for the rest of 2018? What’s next in line for you? I have a couple of events and different exciting things lined-up over the coming months, but I can’t give too much away as there is a bit of work to do before everything is confirmed. Personally, I want to keep growing my business as best I can, keep learning every day and working hard to see how far I can get with my business. I recently bought my first sewing machine, so I will be working a lot more with fabrics etc. as well as painting. So, watch this space!

What’s your favourite release been so far this year?

Why? It would have to be Sean Wotherspoons Air Max 97/1’s that were released just before Air Max Day this year. It’s rare that I see a pair of shoes like them that I wouldn’t even think of customising. I was lucky enough to pick up

Dominic Chambrone/TheShoe Surgeon would have to

a pair and I think they are even nicer on foot.

be my favourite from a design perspective. He has started

Did you enter the Nike London Design competition

‘The Surgeon Shoe School’ where people can design and handcraft their own pair of shoes like Nike AF1’s/Air Max 1’s from scratch. This is something I have become very interested in and would absolutely love to take up one of his workshops!

Tell us about your collaboration with Life Style Sports. How did this opportunity arise?

Lifestyle initially got in touch with me via Instagram and they had an idea of a campaign called “The 12 Trainers of Christmas”. The idea was that I would design 12 pairs

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that customers bought on the day. They had a picture of

of shoes for them and they would do a giveaway for each pair through their Instagram page. The campaign went

this year?

I did think about it, but I feel like I still have so much more to learn before diving into something as big as that. It is something I would consider down the line though. @SMCUSTOMS on Instagram

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COS X PHILLIP K. SMITH III X SALONE DEL MOBILE 2018

For this year’s edition of Milan Design Creative Director of COS. Week, London-based fashion brand COS presented a large-scale sculptural installation

by American artist Phillip K. Smith III, marking COS’s seventh consecutive installation during Salone del Mobile and its first collaboration with Smith.

Phillip K. Smith III noted of the installation, “My work is created in direct response to the surrounding environment, becoming a canvas that interacts with both the urban and natural landscape. I’m thrilled to partner with COS to create this unique sculptural experience which

Inspired by Italian Renaissance architecture, will reframe the historic space. Characterised the Milanese sky and the understated simplicity by

ever-changing

spatial

and

temporal

of the COS design aesthetic, Phillip K. Smith elements, every visitor’s experience of the III created a site-specific outdoor architectural installation will be entirely individual.” sculpture in the 16th century courtyard and garden of Palazzo Isimbardi, designed to offer an individual experience to each visitor, through its interaction with light and time.

The installation opened for a short duration in April this year and impressed to say the least.

COS have continuously outdone themselves with these fantastic collaborations and what

“At COS, we have been inspired by the comes next remains a mystery. way Phillip K. Smith III’s installations interact with their natural surroundings, allowing us to experience spaces in new ways, whether in deserts or on beaches, and we are eager to see how his work responds to the environment of Milan. It is from these experiences of art,

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which reshape the way we see the world around us, that we derive so much of our inspiration at COS,” said Karin Gustafsson,

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S P E C T R U M

Photographer: Alex Hutchinson Model: Aubrey O Mahony at Not Another Agency Styling: Adam Gaffey Assistant Photographer: Richard Harvey Assistant Stylist: Tien Nguyen

LEFT: Breton Stripe T-Shirt, Colour Block Runner Short

at Primark

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THIS PAGE: Fine Stripe T-Shirt, SS Viscose Plain Shirt, Elastic Weaved Belt, Pinstripe Trousers

THIS PAGE Teal Waffle Polo, SS Viscose Plain Shirt, Raw Hem White Biker White Jean

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RIGHT: Floral T-Shirt, Navy Twill Jacket, Blue Skinny Twill Trouser, Slip On Shoe at Primark

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White Scoop Neck Crew T-Shirt, Striped Boxy Fit Shirt, Pink City Shorts at Primark

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Linen Look Crew Neck T-Shirt, Cream Chino Short, Brown Weave Belt, Aviator Glasses at Primark

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THIS PAGE: SS Printed Viscose Shirt, Runner Shorts, Aviators

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RIGHT: Tank Vest Light Pink, Printed Chino Shorts White at Primark

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Coat: Burberry; €2195 / T-shirt, Adidas; €80 / Trousers, The Kooples; €198 / Trainers, Air Vapormax Plus; €210 / Socks, Palm Angels €50

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all available at Brown Thomas

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NEW LOOK SS18

COLOUR PALETTE 54

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEITH MEEHAN

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L Words: Lucy Mortell

U

X

U D

R E

Y L

Luxury brands have been out of reach to Bain & Co estimates that by 2025 millennials many shoppers for decades. High quality will represent 40% of the global personal design comes with a high price tag, creating luxury goods market. In order to maintain a a sense of exclusivity by , well, excluding all degree of relevance, some high-end market but those who can afford them. This allowed brands have begun adapting themselves in these high-end brands to play a big role in order to fit into the ideologies of the new dictating what’s in and what’s out, establishing luxury customer. The new luxury customer the fashion somebodies from the fashion isn’t looking to magazines or runways for nobodies. In recent years, however, the their fashion fix, instead they’re getting instant sparkly eyes of young, wannabe fashionistas satisfaction in the palm of their hand. The have moved from red carpet glamour to dilemma for these high-end brands now is carefully curated images on social media. how to make their way onto the newsfeeds of A-list celebrities featured in magazines are no their future clientele. longer the sole trendsetters, people now take inspiration from anyone with a decent iPhone camera and a well thought out Instagram theme. This shift has forced many high-end brands to reconsider not only how they market themselves but to who.

According to a study, carried out by management consulting firm Bain & Co., in order to succeed in the next decade the

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luxury industry must refocus on the customer.

Grasping the attention of the younger generation will be vital in order to survive.

For the past few years, the rise in the popularity of Streetwear, particularly among Millennial and Generation Z customers, has been undeniable. But how do legacy fashion houses adapt to a trend that completely goes against their brand identity? Collaboration.

David Fischer, founder of Highsnobeity, told the Business of Fashion in 2017 that “Streetwear is completely natural” for the younger generation and therefore collaboration is “the perfect way for a luxury house to get their

X

E

MODERN CHALLENGES FOR LUXURY RETAIL

‘legacy’ across to young consumers”. This

‘reasonable’ price of €750. What a steal!

got the goods can be enough, here luxury

theory is proven by the roaring success of

These collaborations have hooked the new

brands will continue to struggle. Keeping up

Louis Vuitton’s collaboration with Supreme.

clientele but the issue of affordability makes

with Generation Z is a whole new challenge.

The concept of a heritage French luxury

this new wave of high-end fashion an enemy

Collaboration can only go so far before it

house combining forces with a New York

to the millennial wallet.

starts compromising brand integrity. But luxury

Skater brand feels wrong but it was oh so right. Debuting at Paris Fashion Week, the collection instantly took over the internet and subsequently pop-up shops in London, Tokyo and Sydney were stormed as people queued for hours in order to get their hands on any piece of this disruptive collection.

Louis Vuitton is not the only high-end brand to join forces with a Streetwear brand, 2017 also saw Tommy Hilfiger team up with Vetements and Burberry with Gosha. While these collaborations have certainly allowed luxury brands put their foot in the wardrobes of millennial shoppers – there is still one thing stopping them from becoming their best customers, the cost.

A Louis Vuitton x Supreme denim jacket will set you back €1750, while a simple box logo hoody initially retailed for the

Previously, the out of reach prices made luxury products more desirable. Now, social media, online shopping and the high street’s fast fashion’s “I want it and I want it now” culture means the average earner fashion lover has to find another way to satisfy their

brands have to decide what compromises they make to reach new markets or how they combat competing against copies of their own products on the black market. Either way, people will always want a little bit of luxury.

craving for instant gratification. The solution?

Cheap knockoffs.

It doesn’t matter if you forked out the couple hundred euro for it or if you found a girl in Russia who makes really good copies at 20 quid a pop. If it looks like you have the real deal, well then, you have the real deal.

The high-end market will continue. High-end customers will always be there. But, fashion doesn’t have a solid form, it adapts, moulds and re-invents itself time after time, as it has done for decades. In a world where– both online and in reality – looking like you’ve

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T E C H

Words: Aoife Ni Mhurchu

In an era where technology is advancing so quickly, us humans Represented in a juxtaposition throughout fashion week, tech proposes have had to adapt rather steadfast to new ways of doing things and a future of extreme uncertainty. Designers Jun Takahashi and Takahiro practically abolishing traditional methods. From how we communicate Miyashita took on darkness of what the future holds in their joint to how we drive our cars, technology is changing everything, and collection. fashion is of course spearheading these tech innovations.

Takahashi’s collection used the storyline of Stanley Kubrick’s 2001: A

As seen at the Men’s Autumn/Winter 18 shows tech was prevalent in Space Odyssey as a parallel to the Order/Disorder theme. Although clothing design, conveying many positives to tech in fashion as seen the film is 50 years old, it’s story still rings through today as we continue with designers such as Balenciaga and Dyne.

to put our trust in technology as a way to focus our lives.

In Balenciaga, 3D body scanning and digital fittings emerged as HAL’s all-seeing red LED eye popped up as rings on gloved hands a new, waste reducing and efficient way of design. Gvasalia used and on bum bags, reflecting the way our phones are probably technology by ditching traditional tailoring for a computer-enabled eavesdropping on us right now. While this show may have seemed process that 3D scanned bodies and printed out forms from a file. The pessimistic for the future, it is still something that we need to consider fabrics were then molded onto the printed foam; “After 3D scanning as we make further technological advances, and Takahashi’s and bodies, we altered the shapes and 3D printed them on molds. There Miyashita’s men’s show was the perfect representation of tech are only two seams, there’s no construction and one layer of fabric’’, ramifications. he described. The waisted outlines of the basque jacket and coat were precision-molded for both female and male physiques in a technique which bonded traditional wool, tweed and velvet to lightweight foam.

The technology just didn’t exist before’’ Gvasalia explained to VICE.

Tech may be extremely prevalent and making waves within the world of fashion design, from designer’s incorporating it in to their clothing to how it is quickly becoming easy to literally seamlessly design clothes. It also has many benefits such as reducing clothing waste and protecting

With this collision of human touch vs tech, Gvasalia represented the against harsh weather. However, we cannot ignore the prominent dichotomy of human-made vs. machine-made construction.

Other designers were quick to don the tech trend also, such as DYNE and their D-Data, fabric information. Inside his garments you’ll find an NFC tag or D-ATA (Dyne Advanced Technology Access), which discloses information about the brand and fabric. In the future, it will

negative paradox that exists in technology, just as we saw in these shows and how they represent what technology overtaking human life can look like. There is no doubt that these A/W 2018 men’s shows have initiated a thought provoking issue in relation to tech and its ambiguity in the future.

also be a means for Bevans to share new releases and developments.

While these innovations present ways to combat climate change, reduce waste and overall produce more efficient manufacturing, they also spark the human vs machine debate. Tech was paradoxically represented in the A/W 18 men’s shows. This was highly demonstrated dystopian ‘when technology overtakes human life’ world.

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in many shows such as Japanese designer Jun Takahashi and his

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NEW MILLENNIUM Creative Direction and Styling: Felipe SantibaĂąez Art Direction and Photography: Declan Kelly Graphic Designer: Deirdre Fallon Model: Marshall Woods Hair: JaysFades Make Up: Hannah Gaff Video: Joe McGovern Photography Assistant: Amie O Brien

LEFT Hoodie & Shirt: River Island Jacket: Tommy Hilfiger THIS PAGE: Pants: Tommy Hilfiger Shoes: Adidas x Ralf Simons at Nowhere

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THIS PAGE: Bucket Hat: COS Shirt and Jacket: Tommy Hilfiger Pants: Adidas at Brown Thomas Shoes: Adidas x Ralf Simons at Nowhere

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LEFT: Shirt: River Island Jacket: Tommy Hilfiger Pants: COS Slipper: River Island

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THIS PAGE: Bucket Hat: COS Shirt and Jacket: Tommy Hilfiger Pants: Adidas at Brown Thomas Shoes: Adidas x Ralf Simons at Nowhere

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LEFT: Beanie: Neighborhood at Nowhere Jacket: Adidas at Brown Thomas

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THIS PAGE: Adidas x Rowa Shirt at Brown Thomas

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LEFT: Hoodie & Shirt: River Island Jacket:Tommy Hilfiger Pants: Adidas x Ralf Simons Shoes: at Nowhere

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AN INTERVIEW WITH SECURE STUDIOS

Secure Studiows by Jee is a new fashion label that is based around producing garments with meaning through the eyes of an Irish boy while embracing the now within the fashion industry. All products grow more and more technical while aiming to portray the subject matter of each capsule.

“I NEED THE CURE” is the brands break out capsule collection and the garments are focused around what people might use as their cure whether it be through drugs, sex, religion, war, self-harm etc. With the subject matter being very loud the garments were made in a way that it would be easy to understand but still be very subtle and very easy to wear casually

design? Where do/did you go to college? What course did you take?

My background in fashion design is broad.

I’ve worked for two well-known designers that are stocked in high end retail stores now as a graphic designer, but I’ve always had ideas as to what I would like to create.

I went to college in Galway to study civil engineering while I did some junior editor work at Highsnobiety but figured it’s not for me and had to leave and persue my career in creative arts.

Talk to us about Secure Studios. When did you start this brand?

Secure Studios. growing up I never really felt secure in myself, the confidence I have today wasn’t there. I’ve always been that kid that killed everything I wanted to do but still never felt complete and accepted. hence the name secure, I wanted to produce garments that I like, garments that make people feel good and bring awareness to certain current affairs while still portraying the youth rebellious lifestyle. I started secure studios in August 2017 but we have only released one piece from our I NEED THE CURE capsule collection.

How would you describe the aesthetic of the designs? Where does the inspiration

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Tell us about your background in fashion

come from?

I want to say I don’t have an aesthetic, people are already comparing me to Vetements which

with some high-end fashion house, but I don’t believe we should be compared to streetwear brands, the term streetwear is a bit demeaning

is nice but I’m not trying to be in the same lane Tell us about the latest collection and as them, the mission is at a greater scale.

When I design clothing there’s a meaning

look book. Where will this be available for customers?

behind each graphic, why the cut is a certain The look book and garments will be dropping way and so on. I treat clothing like art and on the 13th of May and everything you see till if you understand the meaning of the name then are just test shots, the latest collection is of each capsule the pieces will resonate. the “I need the cure” capsule which is focused Inspiration for my designs comes from my around what people might use as their cure perception on a lot of things I try not to follow whether it be through drugs, sex, religion, a lot of brands so I don’t make designs similar, war, self-harm and so on, you’ll be able to that would defeat the whole purpose. My come experience the feel of the rand on the thing is you must live before you can create, 13th on our website secure-studios.com, my designs come from me living, seeing reception has been good, and we already different things going on, seeing different had rapper MADINTYO and his DJ Jehmahk situations and experiencing things

wearing our hoodie.

What approach do you take when it What direction do think street wear is comes to your own designs? What’s the going in? What’s next on the radar? most important part of the process?

I think the term streetwear no longer exists or

Before I design I must have a subject matter, I its coming to an end. Everything is going to treat every collection or design like a leaving be known as fashion. People like Kim Jones cert art project or if you will, a case study. and Virgil Abloh have bridged that gap.

Every part of designing your art is important I High end has always stolen from streetwear don’t believe that one part is more important, and I’m happy it is all coming together now, from the cut to the label, everything matters.

very excited for the future. I really think that

Do you have any collaborations line

this Is going to be the year Samuel Ross takes

up right now? Who would you like to

another huge step up with A COLD WALL

collaborate with?

What are your plans for 2018? What are

I do not want to do any collaborations I

your ambitions?

have reached where I want to be within the Plans for 2018 is to keep releasing art, I keep creative industry but Ideally, I would love to stressing that I am not a fashion designer collaborate with Ev Bravado, Carlo Rivetti or but an artist. 2018 I plan on holding an Samuel Ross

installation for the I NEED THE CURE capsule

Do you investigate heavily into good

and release another capsule as well, I know

fabric? Would you class Secure Studios as luxury streetwear?

Good fabric is key, the way the fabric looks is part of the art as well, knowing the percentage of cotton you need, what type of cotton, if wool works better, all this adds to the way the product will fit on the consumer and that’s one of my favourite parts when making clothes.

Yes, I would class Secure as a luxury brand but not streetwear maybe somewhere in the

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middle of luxury and streetwear, I believe secure studios could compete in a few years

within 3 years everything’s will be different. one ambition of mine is to be stocked in Antonioli.

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Stylist: Tien Nguyen Photographer: Eoghan Fay Make-up & Hair: Aileen Ward Model: Sean Ryan

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LEFT: Jacket: Burberry at Brown Thomas THIS PAGE: Hoodie: H&M Jeans: Zara Cap: H&M

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THIS PAGE High neck jumper: Zara T-shirt: H&M Trouser: River Island Bag: River Island.

RIGHT + NEXT PAGE Polo: River Island Joggers: Primark Belts: Stylist’s own.

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Jersey: Gosha x Adidas at Brown Thomas Jeans: H&M, €39.99 Cap: Primark, €3 Watch: Primark, €14 Belt: H&M, €14.99 Bag: River Island, €20

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Windbreaker: COS, €89 Polo: Primark, €3 Trousers: Topman, €100

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Shirt: COS, €59 Joggers: Adidas Special at Brown Thomas Brogues: COS, €150 Cap: H&M, €9.99

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Tracksuit Top: Gosha at Brown Thomas, €155 Tracksuit Bottoms: Gosha at Brown Thomas, €125 T-shirt: Primark, €7 Trainers: H&M, €39.99

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Words: Tien Nguyen Photos: Coffee & Kicks

As we continue to commend the long-lived skeleton – revealing the inner functions of exposed bones of the Pompidou Centre. It’s legacy, of innovative and influential design, the building to the public. He believed that bright colours inspired Pompidou to add the we pay homage to what is considerably these characteristics of the Parisian building flashy red stripe to the Airmax 1, yet another one of the most celebrated names in sneaker changed the way people looked at urban feature that we associate with the iconic shoe. history – the Nike Airmax. Introduced back design, something he was desperate to in 1987, the Nike Airmax was originally introduce to Nike. He states that, “I’m fully designed by Tinker Hatfield, who began convinced that, had I not seen the building, I his career within the brand as an architect - might not have suggested we actually expose designing stores, show-spaces and offices. this airbag and make it visible”.

Hatfield often expressed a keen interest in product design at Nike and so, once the opportunity arose, he grabbed it.

Although this design concept began as a bold and risky move for Nike, one that nearly lost Hatfield his job, it continues to grow as one of the most recognised generation of sneakers to date. From the 1 to the 97, and now to

Hatfield’s exposed airbag was not just for the Vapormax Plus, this highly reputable chain aesthetic – but also provided an additional has developed a massive following of both function to how the shoe operates. Since the fans and collectors, selling millions of pairs all

When Hatfield first showcased his designs, air cushion was no longer surrounded by foam, over the world. Even it’s long list of renowned the initial reaction was one of doubt – it could expand into open holes and change collaborations, including both the Skepta 97 particularly from the “Head of Marketing and its response to the runner – a technological and Comme De Garcon x Airmax 180, has Running”. People felt that due to the visible breakthrough within the industry. It was clear gained the seal of approval from loyal Airmax air cushion in the sole of the shoe, it came that Hatfield had created something striking lovers everywhere. Through contemporary across as vulnerable and that it didn’t look like and bold, just like the Parisian building, and and innovative design, we see the concept a “normal” running shoe. Despite the initial revolutionary legacy was born – an eye- of a visible air cushion that was introduced doubt, it was this feature that soon became catching feature that could be recognised to us over 30 years ago, continue to evolve one of the most recognisable displays of instantly. To achieve this, he included a bright into an entire sole, a sure sign that the Airmax innovation for the brand. Hatfield’s inspiration red stripe which ran along the entire Airmax revolution shows no sign of slowing down came

from

the

controversial

“Georges 1 just above the mid-sole, another feature anytime soon.

Pompidou Centre” building in Paris – an inspired by the internal mechanics of the

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architectural structure that with an exposed Pompidou Centre. The bright colours of the

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SWOOSH SWOOSH

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BURTON SS18

89 RIVER ISLAND SS18

STRIPES ALL OVER

NEW LOOK SS18

As we come into the summer, we have gained serious stripe envy from what’s been available on the high street recently.

Vertical stripes seem to be the most recent update to the skater aesthetic and can be seen in a wide variety of bright colour ways and pastels from the likes of Stussy and Fila. Horizontal stripes are more popular in larger scale block patterns, using contrasting panels to add in splashes of colour, offered in boxy shapes, moving away from the common slim silhouette to a more relaxed fit. You can pair any one of these stripes with a pair of jeans and clean trainers for

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an easy casual smart look this season.

Shirt, River Island; €37 / Vest, Topman; €20 / Trousers, Topman; €50 /

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Loafers, H&M, €34.99 / Sunglasses, H&M; €7.99

EMPORIUM

Photos: James Fagan.

Twenty-year old Robbie Kavanagh has of the brands that participate in our events produced a unique hub for young local also, without them there would be no basis for talent at its best. Emporium is a pop-up an event! The bulk of the “work” in organizing event for Irish streetwear brands and the event is just finding brands that we think designers, which is to bring new Irish are well thought out and interesting. We like designers to the forefront of Irish street brands with design that means something to fashion and a launching pad for designers the designer and to the casual fan of clothes. to gain exposure with those interested in the culture.

After curating the brands for the event, we get to work on finding a venue that suits what

What’s the purpose behind Emporium? we’re trying to do. Ayuba from Tola Vintage What was the motivation?

By getting a large number of designers and brands to pop up in the same event we feel that we can effectively crowd-source an audience for the brands. As individuals we’re too small to make much of an impact, but together we have a pretty big reach! The

was kind enough to let us use Tola for our first event, which filled a big need for us. After the time, date and brands are figured out we get to work on getting in touch with sponsors to draw people into our events and to create the right environment for the event. We partnered with VITHIT for our March pop up!

idea came about through talking to a few You’re bringing Irish brands together friends about how homegrown streetwear in under one roof. Do you have your own Ireland is developing and just noticing the brand too? lack of a platform that these brands have to gain exposure, Emporium just seemed like a logical step!

Our priority right now is to act as a platform for Irish brands and creatives. We’re aspiring to be a showcase of Irish design and a

When was the first event? Where did it proponent of the culture of streetwear in take place?

Our first event was back in March in the basement of Tola Vintage, Temple Bar. It ran

Ireland. Emporium as a brand is something which is definitely in the works, we are looking at releasing limited clothing in the near future.

from 1pm through 5pm and over the course What’s your favourite Instagram account of those 4 hours we had around five-hundred to follow for style? Why? people come by to check out our first pop up!

My favourite account/personality right now is

Who is involved in producing each event? probably Magnus Ronning, he’s one of the What’s involved?

The Emporium team as far as event organizing is very small, it’s currently comprised of myself,

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and two friends, Conor Walsh and Heather Moore. Obviously, a lot of credit goes to all

few sneaker involved people whose sense of style tends to avoid hyped brands and focuses more so on quality and actual aesthetics instead of just following a herd. The simplicity of what he wears has had an impact on how

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I’ve been dressing recently.

are to be decided and obviously it’s hard to

What do you do in your spare time?

make sure that we can get a date that will

Apart from running Emporium?.

Aside from Emporium, I’m a second-year student in Trinity and I work for Offspring, a sneaker store in Brown Thomas. When I’m not in work or college I’m probably trawling through every and any vintage website I can find or looking through a sneaker store for something new. I’m sitting on around 50 pairs right now and the piles of boxes are only growing as time goes by. My interest in fashion in general has firm foundations in sneaker culture, and I would identify as a sneaker-head before anything else, which takes up a shocking amount of my spare time.

Who’s your favourite menswear designer right now? Why? Right now, it’s probably AMI by Alexandre Mattiussi, the simplicity of everything he does, as well as the relatively affordable price point, is a big draw especially for myself as a student with a limited budget. Honestly, my biggest interest right now would be more so vintage pieces or retros of older vintage sportswear rather than higher end menswear design. Vintage Guess, Ralph Lauren Polo Sport and Burberry have been my go-to’s for the past year or so.

When does your next event take place (After April 26th)? What can we expect to see?

We are hoping to have another pop-up shop ready to go by early summer, and later in

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summer we’re looking at hosting an art gallery and pop up shop event simultaneously. Dates

suit as many brands as possible, but that’s the nature of organizing such a collaborative event, and we wouldn’t have it any other way. At our next event you can expect to see the designers and brands at the forefront of Irish streetwear, to have an opportunity to get a look inside the culture surrounding streetwear in Ireland and to have a chance to help to push this culture forward!

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Danielle Ritchie at Cut & Sew

We asked our social media audience what and been given the opportunity to educate What are your ambitions for the future? they would like to see in our SS18 issue and alongside director Sean Bryan. we received a great number of requests for barber profiles. So, we talked to some of the freshest talent around Dublin including Danielle Ritchie from Cut & Sew. How did you begin cutting hair? What was the first step you needed to take?

Would you like to work abroad?

How often do you experiment? Do you Definitely to cut on stage, it absolutely terrifies have a source of inspiration?

Everyday! if I get the chance to stay behind and work on something that’s been in my

me but it’s on my list of goals...maybe I’ll get the opportunity to cut on stage abroad...baby steps!

mind, being creative hasn’t always been in Have

you

previously

entered

me but with lots of inspiration around these competitions? Do you have a competitive

I started in a small local barbershop in my days especially within the company with the nature? neighbourhood in 2008 being an apprentice likes of Aaron Kiely who is at the top of his barber for 2 years, I grew up around hair a game right now lot when I was young as my mother was a successful salon owner, but being a hairdresser never appealed to me! applying for jobs I needed to make myself stand out from the others when applying for an apprentice role so I went and put myself on a small barbering course to learn basic skills ie.. How to hold scissors & comb, clipper work What

approach

do

you

take

to

continuously build on your career?

What’s been your most recent up-skill? would have to be putting myself out there in many of

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ways...a big fear of mine was teaching my craft and in Cut & Sew I’ve overcome that

I haven’t until this year, in fact I just got told today I have made the Wella Trendvision18

What do you feel separates yourself from Irish heats so I’m super excited to compete in other barbers?

Being in the game 10 years I have inherited

that and it’s all new to me but again that was on my list of goals this year

a lot of classic barbering techniques that I Do you think social media is helping can say a lot of what we call “new school” progress barbering? Is it over saturated? barbers wouldn’t know, I have worked my way up the ladder throughout the years

Of course, it helps in a lot of ways. It’s a great way of networking with fellow barbers around

Which trends have you been seeing in the world, it’s a large community so getting early 2018? What direction do you think yourself out there is important but then again this trend is going in?

Towards the end of 2017 we seen a lot of tapers, now it’s the ‘grow out classic image mixed with disconnection for that add creativity

you need to find a balance as it can take over, I’m guilty for watching hair videos for hours on end.

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TOMMY HILFIGER X LEWIS HAMILTON Tommy Hilfiger recently announced that British Formula inspire me to be bold in every outfit that I put together One racing driver and four-time Formula One World outside of the racing track, expressing my creativity Champion Lewis Hamilton would appear as the new and eclectic style with confidence. His ground-breaking global brand ambassador for Tommy Hilfiger men’s, TOMMYNOW experiential events are one-of-a-kind, and including their Hilfiger Collection, Tommy Hilfiger I’m very excited to partner with such visionary brand.”

Tailored and Tommy Hilfiger Menswear, Underwear and Swimwear, starting Spring 2018. The partnership reflects Tommy Hilfiger’s strategic commitment to build on its strong menswear heritage and further drive the global growth of its men’s business, bringing the next generation of fans to the brand.

The integrated men’s campaign was photographed by Mikael Jansson at the Pocono Raceway, also known as the Tricky Triangle, in Pennsylvania, U.S. It features exclusive video teasers, print, online, and out of home media placements, and is supported by unique consumer activations that continue to bring the brand’s unique

“I have always admired Lewis’ incredible endurance perspective on pop culture to life around the world. during the race, as well as his unique style off the track, The campaign will run alongside the brand’s dedicated which speak to the new generation of Tommy Guys,” women’s advertising, featuring global womenswear said Tommy Hilfiger. “He has built his incredible career brand ambassador and international supermodel Gigi as a racing driver with passion, dedication and extremely Hadid. The campaigns fused when Lewis Hamilton and hard work – values that I embraced when founding my Gigi Hadid took the wheel of a Mercedes-AMG GT brand. We have a history with Formula One, and this S car at the Pocono Raceway, and recorded their first partnership builds on our heritage of collaborations drive together around the track in a dash cam shot video, within the world of motor sport.”

Lewis Hamilton’s career achievements have put him in an

directed by Matt Baron, that shows their reactions to the other’s driving skills.

elite group of global athletes, and he is regarded as one The collection celebrates Tommy Hilfiger’s love of motor of the greatest Formula One drivers in history. He holds sports, where speed and immediacy fuse with a touch the record for all-time most pole positions, career points of vintage nostalgia. The collection, which premiered and most wins at different circuits. He has won at least at TOMMYNOW “DRIVE” during Milan Fashion Week one Grand Prix in every season he has competed in. on February 25th, gives nod to the Formula One racing Lewis Hamilton connects with more than 17 million fans pit crew, with heritage work wear and a strong focus through the incredible reach of his social media channels, on denim. Street styles are born from the iconic shapes, offering his audience a unique behind-the-scenes glimpse bold colours and streamlined graphics of speed racers. into the Formula One racing world and his personal life. Looking at the traditional American automobile culture,

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“I believe in the power of fashion and innovation to celebrate individuality and break conventions, like Tommy Hilfiger,” said Lewis Hamilton. “Tommy’s designs

clothing is reinvented for a collection that fulfils the needs of today’s fast-paced lifestyle.

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CLOTHES OF ETHICS. In a Trump dominated society, global warming is becoming a more different way and supporting good causes with our products whenever and more prevalent, if not frankly worrying reality. With the US no possible.” longer part of the Paris agreement to keep human waste and air pollution controlled, the future of a clean planet is uncertain and the fashion world has something to say about it.

Balenciaga has already provided to support the WFP’s work, with co-branded WFP products such as caps, T-shirts and hoodies. Ten percent of sales were promised to make a tangible difference for

Fashion has always been used as a catalyst for change, so it’s no people in hunger-stricken parts of the world. surprise that this year’s Men’s Autumn/Winter 18 fashion weeks were full of references, collaborations and real life clothing adaptations for harsher climates due to global warming.

Balenciaga’s partnership with the World Food Programme shows us that fashion can be used as a stimulant for positive change, particularly during these turbulent times and that designers can use their platform

While fashion has often been pinned as a vapid and commercially and power through charity collaborations and clothing concepts to not based industry, in these tumultuous and changing times, we need only represent a societal issue but actively tackle it. fashion more than ever. Some designers have started to adapt a more ethical and selfless business model, from partnering with charities to vigorously tackling climate change.

Other designers adopting this selfless business model in 2018 is Moncler. Partnering with Unicef, the United Nations international children’s emergency fund, Moncler launched a charity campaign.

The trailblazer for this model, is not surprisingly, creative director of The initiative aims to provide clothes and survival kits to children and Balenciaga, Demna Gvasalia. For fall 2018 he exclaimed ‘’two families in need who live in areas around the world with harsh winter aesthetics and one ethic’’ was the goal of his collection. Balenciaga weather conditions.

AW 2018 show. The idea of dressing for extreme weather developed in the progressive adding of layer on layer. In an interview with i-D, Demna stated; “It was minus 7 in Paris last week, so it’s not just my interest, it’s my fear too,” he added. “It also meant we could go as far as possible with volume too’’.

Not only did Demna use his designs and cutting-edge technology to tackle waste production to help hinder climate change progression, he also adapted a further ethical approach in his collection by collaborating with the World Food Programme.

“I’m tired of just making prints. If I create a graphic, it has to be more, so this season we created a boyband and we created a neverending hotline, but the main component is our support for the World Food Programme, which draws attention to the recent spike in global hunger and supports global efforts to end it by 2030. We consider this partnership to be an important step in making fashion useful in a

The aptly named ‘Warmly Moncler for Unicef’, will provide thermal blankets, hats, gloves, scarves, socks and shoes, in addition to fuel to warm up homes and schools. Clean water, food and medicines will be also included in the survival kits.

Other designers focused on technology to counteract global warming.

Outerwear brand, Herno presented the Herno Laminar project, a fully waterproof yet breathable down jacket made in collaboration with Gore-Tex, and it was shown in a shower to suggest its resilience in the heaviest of monsoons.

These charity partnerships, alongside clothing designs to combat global warming, shows us that fashion brands are doing their part to help the future. By adapting more ethical approaches in their designs and funding charities, not only are design houses targeting global warming, but they are positively and fiercely helping the human race by making positive changes that aim to salvage our uncertain future.

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presented the theme of extreme weather in his clothing designs in the

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NEW LOOK SS18

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Navy Cotton Cap €12.95 / Oversized T-Shirt €15.95 / Printed Bermuda Shorts €19.95 / Striped Socks €4.95 / Soft Loafers €59.95 All available at Zara

HOLIDAY HOLIDAY TRAVEL TRAVEL KIT KIT

1.

When we travel abroad, there’s nothing worse

than

being

unprepared

and

uncomfortable. An engineering issue with your suitcase, a missing passport, or a missed flight can be the cause of much unneeded stress. So, prepare yourself with the right gadgets and luggage this summer and enjoy your holiday.

2.

1. Fitibit Ionic Watch, €349.00 at Harvey Norman 2. Bose Soundlink Mini Speaker 2, €190.00 at Harvey Norman

3 Keysmart, €21 at Designist Keysmart will transform your keyring from a sprawling mess into an organised, manageable dream. The Keysmart is a

3.

compact key holder made from lightweight aluminium that can fit up to 8 keys and has an extra d-ring for your car key.

4. Tripp Ink blue ‘Absolute Lite zip’ 4-wheel cabin suitcase, from €85.00 at Debenhams 5 Travel back pack and toiletry kit, Mens at Dune.

6. Rebel at Heart Dark Woods and Gentle Woods Fragrance, €37.95 at Thomas Sabo.

7. Yellow Bermuda Sports Shorts, €12.99 at Bershka 8. Floral Shirt, €25.95 at Zara

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4.

8.

7.

6.

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5.

TOPMAN SS18 Images provided by Topman.

In the backstreets of Shoreditch, June 2017, Topman celebrated the 5th anniversary of London Fashion Week: Men’s.

In a derelict warehouse, several empty high-ceiling rooms each showcased a unique art exhibition; some with interactive visuals, and others with photogenic sets. Leading to a rooftop and then back into a crowd filled basement where models stood tall on a wide platform resembling a gang of ‘Modern Romantics’, dressed in cropped metallic coats and other futuristic formal wear.

The collection had a clean colour palette and a feature of sharp patterns. Stripes were at the forefront, while colour blocking was interpreted into space like body suits. Thick waistbands were pinched, and silky materials were infused

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to create a contemporary ‘Astronaut’ aesthetic.

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LIVE

DIE

Words & Illustration: David Browne

If you’ve got a taste for terror... take Carrie to the prom. Or, just

(Am I becoming too suspicious?) 1950’s couture silhouettes were

watch the Calvin Klein 205w39NYC Spring 2018 show.American

rebirthed in unlikely materials and branded with confronting Warhol

dream turned American horror. Designer Raf Simons’ American

graphics of Sandra Brant. A runway featuring waxy and matte rubber,

Spring Summer 2018 show is set in a midwestern prairie, full of

satin, denim, Tangled yarn and plastics- Simons certainly explored all

cheerleaders, lumberjacks, geeks and cowboys. Blonde Hitchcock

his options. I don’t know about you, but I feel like watching a horror

inspired Cheerleaders, prom queens (and kings), mysterious (and

movie tonight.

good-looking) suspects and the girl next door. Each wearing rubber elbow length gloves, burnt and blood-stained leather overcoats, all American, colour blocked western style satin getups and airy prairie dresses. Just for when the masked killer chases you through the cornfield. Or when Brad or Chad scale the lattice on your veranda to steal a midnight kiss. Or when your date ditches you by the punch bowl at prom for the captain of the football team.

Yes, all the wonderful clichés. Belgian-born designer Raf Simons and creative director Pieter Mulier pulled all the stops. Disturbing Andy Warhol graphics like “Electric chair” (1967) and “Ambulance disaster” (1964) unapologetically graced the Charles Manson era Double denim looks and vest tops in a true Raf Simons fashion. For men, we saw loose cut, broad shoulder plaid suits and over shoulder

Clothes aside, metal buckets and Blood-red pompoms and bloodied axes installed by artist Sterling Ruby dangled from the ceiling. “Here’s Johnny!”

As “K” By Cigarettes after Sex played, we were provided with an image of the ideal American teenage life. A never-ending innocent Summer romance and a weed haze in the suburban town sunset. Or a slow dance at Prom. This strange juxtaposition of American dream and classic American horror created an aesthetic so tangible and literal, and suggested a dark, malicious undertone despite the pretty façade. Look too close and you might just spot an electric chair. - all designers take note. It was a true display of American art and film.

And we all want a slice of that American dream.

bags that border chic and creep. Hey, What are you hiding in there?

Brooding overcoats and cowboy boots dominated menswear, styled with low neck Warhol print vest tops, loose-leg leather trousers and square toe boots. Kaia Gerber made her runway debut in a Unisex satin colour blocked western shirt and a blood red pompom clutched to her side. On her feet, shiny square-toe cowboy boots, tipped with metal. Bundled quilts with contrasting and geometric patterns and Blood sprayed pom-poms lay loose and crumpled by the waist of the nonchalant models. For women we saw ghostly, sheer night dresses

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paired with loose fitting knee high boots that resemble body bags.

S i b l i n g

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Photos: Dean Ryan McDaid Styling: Eimear Lynch Grooming: Lynsey McLoveheart Models: Amby Miley (Not Another Street Cast) with Josh Maguire

Amby: Top: Gucci at Brown Thomas €490 Cardigan: Thom Brown at Brown Thomas €1960 Trousers: White Noise Shoes: New Balance

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Josh: Top: Vintage Trousers: White Noise Shoes: Model’s own

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Amby: Jacket: Oliver Spencer - Indigo and Cloth €220 Shirt: Moschino - White Noise Hat: Vintage Burberry - Nine Crows €60

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Josh: Top: Dries Von Noten - Brown Thomas €400 Hat: Champion - White Noise

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Amby Top: Burberry at Brown Thomas - €315 Trousers: White Noise Shoes: Convers

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Josh: Top:Buberry at Brown Thomas - €315 Trousers: Gucci at Brown Thomas - €550 Shoes: Model’s own Gold chain: Stylist’s own

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Amby: Top: Schnayderman’s at Indigo and Cloth €155 Cardigan: Dries Von Noten at Brown Thomas €600 Trousers: Universal Works at Indigo and Cloth €145 Shoes: Model’s own Chain: Stylist’s own

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Josh: Top: Dries Von Noten at Brown Thomas €400 Shorts: Dries Von Noten at Brown Thomas €400 Shoes: Model’s own Hat: Champion - White Noise

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Coat: Burberry at Brown Thomas €2195 Top: White Noise Trousers: Yeezy at Brown Thomas €255 Shoes: New Balance

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LEFT: Jacket: Stussy at Brown Thomas €180 Trousers: A Kind of Guise at Indigo and Cloth €180 THIS PAGE: Jacket: Oliver Spencer at Indigo and Cloth €220 Shirt: Moschino - White Noise Trousers: Oliver Spencer at Indigo and Cloth €170 Shoes: Raf Simons at Nowhere €350 Hat: Vintage Burberry at Nine Crows €60

‘PROPHECY’ PRE-LAUNCH EVENT To celebrate the launch of our Spring Summer 2018 issue, we collaborated with Brown Thomas on an exciting presentation party on the rooftop of their car park where our guests were treated to a special installation

by Adidas and a model presentation styled

by Darren Feeney.

Photos by Anthony Woods.

Davis Browne & Eve McMahon

Fortune Lago, Julius Agboanou & Satvir Makhan

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Louise Joyce & Andy Mymes

Jack Meenan & Edel Meenan

Kevi Knight & Lui Rwego

Aubrey O’Mahony & Charlie Clinch

Paul O’Connor & Adam Gaffey

lan Buckeridge & James Fagan & Charlie Proctor

Taine King

Kristijan Anrolovic & Andrija Solarevic

Thomas Behan & Emma O’Rourke

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Stephanie Game & Conor Merriman

Lauren Bejaoui

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Dean Nguyen & Danny Wilson

Robin McGonigle & Adam Gaffey

Lukman Onilenla & Francis Andre

DADCORE Loved by many, questioned by some – the fashion phenomenon known as “Dadcore” has taken the street style scene by storm. With tucked tees and straight cut jeans, this trend emphasizes effortless and unrefined styling – essentially the generic middle-aged man’s wardrobe. Brought to life by fashion house Balenciaga, as part of their SS18 collection, Dadcore certainly attracted divided opinions. However, we feel this trend brings a more practical and approachable essence to streetwear. According to Demna Gvasalia, a major influence for his collection was simply, “young fathers it’s clear to see that this trend will set the tone for SS18.

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in the park with their kids”. Matching up key pieces such as boxy blazers, chunky trainers and of course the dad cap,

LFW:M AW18 SHOWS LFW:M has struggled to maintain its excitement as many designers are fleeing to different capitals to showcase their designs.

While the UK may have lost J.W Anderson to Pitti Uomo, we preview the LFW:M AW18 collections backstage through the lens of Caoimhe Hahn. A closer look at designers such as Edward Crutchley, Wood Wood, and Tourne de Transmission who

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are keeping the momentum alive .

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