MFI Magazine Autumn 2015 by MFI Magazine

AUTUMN 2015 M E N ’ S FA S H I O N I R E L A N D M AG A Z I N E

MFI MAGAZINE ISSUE 11 Magazine Credits

Contact Information

Editor in Chief Adam Gaffey

For all enquires please email us at info@mfimagazine.com

Art Director Michelle Walsh

@MFIMagazine

Fashion Editor James Butler

MFI Magazine has official channels on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, Youtube and Pinterest.

Copy Editor Elaine Connolly Guest Writers Mark Anthony Paula Burns Lewis Robert Cameron Rory Cashin Patrick O’Donnell Alex Sheehan Josh Stledger Contributing Photographers Arlene Bourke Diego Fierce Megan Gallagher Stephen Gallagher Táine King Ricky Mangala Sherion Mullings Niamh O’Shaughnessy Alex Sheridan Contributing Illustrators Francesco LO IACONO Conor Merriman

MFI Magazine past issues available through mfimagazine.com and ISSUU.COM

Issue 11 | On the Cover Photographer Táine King Model Carl Shaaban at Morgan the Agency Styling James Butler Styling Assistant Dean Nguyen Hair Raissa Gilligan MUA Tee Elliott Shot at Hudson Quarry, Blessington Carl wears Coat, Turtleneck, Boots, Belt all from River Island; Trousers Primark; Scarf Burberry at Brown Thomas.

MFI Magazine is registered in Co.Wicklow, Ireland. ISSN 2009-7654 (Print) ISSN 2009-7662 (Online)

EDITOR’S NOTE While we patiently await the full effects of the gloomy Autumn weather to arrive, which will more than likely entail blistering winds and torrential rain; we are once again gearing ourselves up for a glorious season of diverse street style, evolved trends, and an exceptional line up of AW15 collections. Since its birth, bespoke design has consistently been a contributing factor to the success and exclusivity of the fashion industry. It’s often underestimated for its impact on the growing market and although ready-to-wear collections on the high street have become more efficient and popular overtime, made-to-measure garments still remain invaluable today. If it’s comfort and luxury that you are looking for, there’s nothing like a perfectly tailored suit. Travel with us on a journey into the eleventh issue of MFI Magazine as we explore the intriguing aesthetics of contemporary formal wear, ease you through the art of dressing, and investigate the spectacular craftsmanship of tailoring.

ADAM GAFFEY

EDITOR’S PICKS McQ Stripe Tape Polo €165 @ Brown Thomas

Armani Eau de Cèdre 50ml €65 @ Brown Thomas

DIRECTORY

A All the Right Recipes

Altered Attire RORY CASHIN

B Bond: The Ever Changing Image of the Ultimate ‘Man’s Man’ RORY CASHIN

Expensive Taste

F Functional Fabrics ALEX SHEEHAN

Attention to Detail MARK ANTHONY

Jeremy Hackett: The English Gentleman ADAM GAFFEY

Facial Flash JAMES BUTLER

Matthew Miller AW15 JAMES BUTLER

Guys with Class

The Military Effect ALEX SHEEHAN

Layered Landscape

Mandatory

Martin Andersson

Modern Day Dandy PAULA BURNS

O Outfit Grid No.1

Outfit Grid No.2

T Suit Subversion

Tie Alternatives

Trending

Walk in the Park with Hermitage Green

S Street Style

Wishlist

Grey Tweed Trousers €39 H&M; Colour Block Taxi Shoes €99 Dune; Roveco Tote €159 Autograph at Marks & Spencer; Black Leather Jacket €199 H&M; Stripe Knitted Sweater €49.95 J&J Vintage at Arnotts; Green Beanie Hat €9.99 H&M.

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#TRENDING JOSH STLEDGER @JoshStLedger

MELLOW YELLOW Take time to give yellow a chance this season, you’ll be hooked! You might associate it more with summertime and daffodils but yellow has made a space for itself in Autumn Winter too – it’s more versatile than you’d think. Mustard, egg yolk, and honey in both bright and khaki tones are just some examples you’ll spot this season. Muted yellows featured in the Tiger of Sweden, Lee Roach, and Oliver Spencer AW15 shows. Pair yellow with darker colours for your AW15 wardrobe. Keep it to a minimum with one or two statement pieces, it’ll balance your outfit perfectly!

1. Crew Neck Sweater €24.99 H&M 2. Lee Roach AW15

3 MAXIMUM LENGTH Long-line coats can be worn in so many different ways which makes them a perfect addition to any wardrobe! If you’re a smart dresser, simply add a clean-cut trench coat or a mac to your wardrobe and you’re all set and stylish for this season. For those of you who are more laid back, invest in an extended length bomber jacket or an oversized raincoat for ultimate coolness. The trick here is to stick to your regular style and experiment by layering your look with different tones and textures – take a look at our exceptional editorial for inspiration! 3. Casely Hayford AW15 4. Long Line Bomber €77 boohooMAN 5. Camel classic overcoat €325 Corsivo at House Of Fraser

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6 SHAVED SHEEP We all need something that is warm and fashionable at the same time, look no further than shearling to keep the heat in this season! Most often, it can be found in the linings of heavy duty outerwear, coats, jackets and that famous 70s leather jacket. It’s dominating the catwalks and there’s a wide choice available on the high street. Whether it’s a late night stroll in the city or an important dinner party, you can work some shearling into almost any look!

6. Xander Zhou AW15 7. Brown Shearling Lined Jacket €145 River Island

HELL FOR LEATHER Don’t let the idea of wearing leather scare you; after taking a back seat for the summer months, it’s making a massive comeback for AW15 and it’s a must have addition to your look. The array of colours and pieces that are available in leather mean that it’s extremely easy to update your wardrobe. The legendary leather jacket is no longer only for the rock ‘n’ roll lifestyle, it’s a timeless piece that will never go out of style and continues to be reinvented. You can’t go wrong with a good pair of leather boots or a pair of cotton lined gloves to save yourself from those crispy winds outside either!

8. Wool Lined Boot €69 M&S 9. Dauphine Leather Note Clip Wallet €195 Dolce & Gabbana at Brown Thomas

11 ABOVE THE WAIST High waisted trousers add a classic perspective this season and we can’t wait to try them out. This 70s style was all over the catwalks for AW15 in collections from Topman, Paul Smith, Dior, Gucci amongst others. Just one thing to keep in mind before you brave this new look: be aware of your body proportions and maybe get some advice when selecting your high waisted trousers. Go all out with this trend this season, we dare you! 10. Topman AW15 11. Grey Tweed Trousers €99 COS

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GUYS WITH

CLASS As we take the time to get to know our readers more, let us introduce Damien, Jake and David who recently sat down with us to talk about their personal style, favourite stores, inspirations and more. Photographer Michelle Walsh

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JAKE MCCABE

What age are you? 22 Where do you live? I’m originally from Drogheda but moved to Dublin a few years ago for college and now I’m living here full-time. What is your occupation? I’m a selfemployed freelance graphic designer and run two small businesses. One is a clothing line called Extra Meat and the second is a line of handmade men’s grooming products called Fukanzen. How would you describe your style? I don’t have a very cut and dry style, as in I don’t fall into any one category. It changes entirely based on occasion and season. What’s your favourite type of accessory? Currently it’s my watch. I believe every man should have a clean, simple-faced watch. Where do you shop most? At the minute it’s equally weighted between Rebirth of Cool, H&M, Zara and vintage shops in Dublin. Favourite piece you own? Favourite piece of late is a beautiful, ultra dark, bottle green wool overcoat I picked up on sale from Burton back in January. Style inspiration? It boils down to two guys with very distinct styles: Jared, the owner of a site called A Poor Man’s Millions, is probably one of the best dressed men in Melbourne, Australia; followed without a doubt by a gentleman called Angel Ramos, the owner of Angel Bespoke from NYC.

Jake wears Vintage Grey Felt Hat, Major (UK); Charcoal Pique Two Button Jacket, H&M; Navy Prince of Wales Check Waistcoat, ASOS; Vintage Navy/Gold Silk Gift from his father; Pink Slimfit Shirt, River Island; Donegal Tweed Trousers, Topman; Bordo Brogues, Base London; Watch, Skagen Theodor; Glasses and Socks, H&M.

What’s the most you have paid for a pair of shoes? I picked up a pair of Red Wing Blacksmith boots in the classic brown finish back in March of this year and they cost me €289. Black or white? Black. Always black. It’s sleek, versatile, suits almost everyone and when in doubt will always make an impact. Style tip for guys? Simple. Find a tailor – fast. Go find one today if possible. I can’t begin to describe the benefits. It saves you money in the long run if you buy quality pieces on sale and have a tailor alter them to suit you perfectly. Follow @ja_cabe

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DAMIEN BRODERICK

What age are you? 24 Where do you live? North Dublin. What is your occupation? I’m a freelance photographer and personal trainer. How would you describe your style? Different. I like to stand out and be the peacock in the room. What’s your favourite type of accessory? Watches, I wear two. Where do you shop most? Topman. Favourite piece you own? Tartan suit from Topman or a vintage sports jacket I got from Nine Crows. What do you think of online shopping? It’s dangerous, and my bank account hates it! Too easy to find things I want. Style inspiration? David Gandy and Joey Essex, both like to be a little different and always show their personal style and they’re not afraid to be different. What’s the most you have paid for a pair of shoes? €170 for some Paul Smith shoes. They’re a size six and too small, but I still wear them. Black or white? Black, although the classic white tee is a must for every man. Style tip for guys? Shop clever, dress with care, then forget about it. Follow @broderickdamien

Damien wears Jacket, Pants and Pocket Square, Topman; Shirt and Cardigan, Primark; High Top Shoes, ASOS; Watch, Cornerford; Glasses, Rayban; Polka Dot Tie, TIEmSquare.com.

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David wears Navy Blazer, Burton; Orange Knitted Jumper, ASOS; White Shirt, Tie and Pocket Square all Burton; Denim Jeans, Forever 21; Shoes, River Island; Brown Leather Bag, Red Herring at Debenhams.

DAVID CASHMAN

What age are you? 27 Where do you live? Originally from Cork but currently living in Waterford. What is your occupation? I work in Killure Bridge Nursing Home in Waterford. How would you describe your style? I would describe my style as classic and smart with a mix of trend led pieces. What’s your favourite type of accessory? My favourite accessory is a pocket square as I feel it adds a nice personal touch and a pop of colour to an outfit. Where do you shop most? I would shop in River Island or Next the most. Favourite piece you own? My favourite piece would be my tan blazer as it’s probably one of the most versatile pieces in my wardrobe and also because I was wearing it when I won the Best Dressed at an Arnotts’ menswear event back in March. What do you think of online shopping? I like online shopping and it’s very handy for those who don’t have the time to go into the shops. The only downfall is trying to guess the sizes and fits if you are shopping from a store you don’t usually shop in. But overall I like the idea of shopping from the comfort of your own home. Style inspiration? My style inspiration has always been David Beckham as I feel he looks well when dressed casually or wearing a three piece suit. Closer to home I am a big fan of both Brendan Courtney and Darren Kennedy. I feel that their style fits what I usually go for; smart with a nod towards the trends. What’s the most you have paid for a pair of shoes? The most I have paid for a pair of shoes is roughly €80. Black or white? White. Style tip for guys? How your clothes fit is essential to your outfit. Try on everything before you buy it and if you are comfortable in what you are wearing your confidence will shine through. Follow @dapperdavecash

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FUNCT IONAL F A B R I C S Autumn Winter is here and with it brings the rain, hail and blustery winds. Although the weather may be bleak, it’s an exciting time for fashion as designers experiment with fabrics and materials to combat whatever the weather may throw at us.

MERINO WOOL

James Long AW15

Merino wool is perfect for this time of year as it’s an active fibre which means that it’ll keep you warm when the weather is cold but also cool when it gets hotter. It has the ability to absorb moisture in the air so it doesn’t build up static electricity. Instead of clinging to your body like other materials, it will hold its drape which is why it’s a favourite material amongst designers. One of menswear’s major players, Sir Paul Smith, has set out to test the boundaries of Merino wool this Autumn Winter. His latest venture is the tailored-fit navy Soho Suit: ‘A Suit to Travel In’ which is cut from 100% Merino wool. The tightly coiled yarn creates a crease-resistant cloth and the expert cut provides a sophisticated yet highly practical piece of tailoring. Smith used the Olympic gymnasts from Team GB to exhibit the suit to clearly show the flexibilty and strength of the suit while also putting on an amazing spectacle for members of the audience. Whether you are making a beeline for your bus on the daily commute or dashing to meet friends for dinner, Sir Paul Smith has proved that merino wool is the perfect travel companion whatever the weather.

SHEARLING Shearling is not only on trend for Autumn Winter 2015 but it is in fact extremely functional, especially as we get closer to those colder Winter months. Shearling

coats are tough and strong enough to protect against the elements and stand the test of time but they’re also soft and comfortable to wear. It’s extremely versatile too – you can dress it up or down depending on the occasion. Shearling comes in a variety of materials as well: Merino Shearling is produced from older sheep and is very dense, soft wool which is ideal for colder climates; Rasado Shearling is made from younger lambs and is much lighter which suits milder climates; long-haired Toscana Shearling is the warmest of the lot and more commonly used for luxury garments. Shearling dominated in the shows for Autumn Winter 2015, and it was even featured by Tom Ford. He introduced us to ‘alpha shearling’, it’s rugged and manly but maintains the clean cut style of Mr Ford. Shearling also featured in Jonathan Anderson’s debut menswear collection for Loewe. And Christopher Bailey brought Bohemian Shearling to the Burberry Prorsum collection.

Matalan AW15

Christopher Raeburn AW15

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TWEED Tweed has been popular among the hardy working men and the privileged upper class over the years. It suffered a small decline but it’s back now and knows no bounds. Blazers, trousers, accessories – there’s nothing that tweed can’t touch! And it’s great news for those of us in colder climates, tweed is naturally water repellent, durable and it will keep you warm too. One of the most renowned tweed weaving manufactures is even here in Ireland: Donegal Tweed with its distinctive multi-tone flecked cloth.

Despite being a functional fabric tweed is also versatile, you can really play around with tweed and make it your own. It can be dressed up for formal occasions or can be worn with jeans and trainers for a casual look. You can even go all out in head-to-toe tweed. Whatever way you want to wear it this Autumn Winter, you can’t go wrong! You know you’ll be warm, dry and have an investment piece for years to come.

ALEX SHEEHAN @MissAlexSheehan

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ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SS16

THE MILITARY EFFECT Illustrator Francesco LO IACONO

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Military uniforms have existed for centuries yet fashion’s dangerous love affair with the combat look never seems to age. Military uniforms have left their mark on the fashion industry. There are some obvious items such as aviator sunglasses, combat pants and even the bomber jacket. However some surprising wardrobe staples derive from war time eras.

deck duties on a ship. White was the chosen colour as it displayed discipline and cleanliness. Sailors would pride themselves on keeping their tee spotless.

THE TRENCH COAT

In the 17th Century during the Thirty Years’ War, Croatian mercenaries arrived in Paris dressed for battle with scarves tied tightly around their necks. The fashion forward French took this look to a new level by draping the scarves loosely known as La Croate and later La Cravate.

The establishment of the classic trench coat is uncertain although Thomas Burberry entered a raincoat design to the War Office in 1901 which was made from his own patented fabric and featured epaulets, large lapels and a convertible collar. Mr Burberry may have been beaten to the post by Aquascutum who, in 1853, created coats for officers fighting in the Crimean War using waterproof wool. Regardless of the birth of the trench coat, this military staple now screams sophistication.

THE TUXEDO STRIPE

THE CARDIGAN SWEATER

The formal satin stripe is not just a frivolous embellishment, it’s mirrored from the stripe of grosgrain ribbon used in the dress uniforms such as The U.S. Marines who wear navy blue with a red stripe.

A somewhat unlikely aspect of a military uniform is the cardigan sweater. The name is attributed to James Brudenell the 7th Earl of Cardigan who was a British Army Major General during the Crimean War. The heavy knit was suited to the harsh conditions during times of war, but still retained a somewhat regal silhouette inspired by the British waistcoat. Who knew cardigans could be so tough?

THE NECKTIE

THE PLAIN WHITE TEE It’s now more fashion statement than functional item which was officially designed as a part of the U.S. Naval uniform in 1913, as a means to offer mobility and comfort while performing

ALEX SHEEHAN

@MissAlexSheehan

JUUN.J AW15

White Top, American Apparel; Military Patterned Denim Blazer, G-Star RAW; Black Blazer Zantoz Trousers, Ermenegildo Zegna; Trainers, Neighborhood x Adidas.

MANDATORY

Photography Diego Fierce Styling Dano Santana Model Jonathan at BANG! Management

This Page Polka Dot Star Shirt, Adidas Originals; Trousers, Ermenegildo Zegna; Faux fur shoulder throw, Rosa Pistola; Vintage Military Jacket. Opposite Page White Cotton Shirt, Givenchy; Crew Neck Jumper, Calvin Klein; Trousers, Ermenegildo Zegna; Boots, Porsche Design x Adidas; Vintage Cap and Military Backpack

This Page White Cotton Shirt, Givenchy; Crew Neck Jumper, Calvin Klein; Trousers, Ermenegildo Zegna; Vintage Cap and Military Backpack. Opposite Page White Top, American Apparel; Military Patterned Denim Blazer G-Star RAW; Trousers, Ermenegildo Zegna; Black Suspenders, H&M.

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WALK IN THE PARK WITH

HERMITAGE GREEN

After the success of their latest single Jenny and their recent signing to Sony Music Ireland, Limerick musicians Hermitage Green are most definitely living the dream. Since 2010, when the band first formed, these five talented guys have impressed with their authentic, acoustic sound and electric live performances. Theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been gigging constantly all around Ireland and further afield in the UK and as far as Australia and Toronto. Get out to see one of their shows immediately. Follow @HermitageGreen

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Image above from left:

Photographer Alex Sheridan Stylist Mari Paduano

Barry Murphy wears Long Dark Grey Coat, Black Fitted Trouser, Black Fitted T-shirt, Black Shoes, all COS. Dan Murphy wears Grey Raincoat, Stockholm; White T-shirt Fanmail; Black Jeans A.P.C.; White Shoes Raf Simons X Adidas Original all Nowhere. Darragh Griffin wears Beige T-shirt, Fanmail, Black Jeans A.P.C. both Nowhere; White Shoes, COS. Darragh Graham wears Long Sleeve White Jumper, COS; Black Jeans, A Kind of Guise at Nowhere; Shoes, Garment Project at Castle & Drury. Dermot Sheedy wears White T-shirt, COS; Black Jeans, A Kind of Guise; White Shoes, Raf Simons x Adidas Original both Nowhere.

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STREET STYLE

DUBLIN We took to the streets of Dublin once again to get a closer look at some of the new season style choices. From leather jackets and snap backs to perfect Autumn layering, here are some of our favourite looks. Photographer Ricky Mangala

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ATTENTION TO

DETAIL Have you ever realised that it’s the little things in life that make us happy? But, have you ever noticed how each of us is remembered for the little things we do in life? Like holding open the door for the person behind you, smiling at someone as you pass them on the street and, in this case, taking detail into consideration. We live increasingly in an image conscious world, where looks and the way we dress make as much difference as our ability, and trying to define yourself can be really challenging. Hands down, the well-dressed male is now a universal phenomenon. So, of course, it is down to that individual to decide just how he’ll make his outfit stand out. The most effective way to separate yourself from the crowd is by paying attention to detail – the finishing touches that complete your outfit as a whole. Now we all have our own opinions on completing our outfits, but most of us just follow the crowd. Where’s your personality in your outfit? It just takes a couple of seconds to step back and give the small details some attention. You will find that the little things aren’t so little after all.

STAND OUT SOCKS There really shouldn’t be any rules when it comes to socks. Obviously there are certain colours that will pair better with others, but in general, shouldn’t we be allowed to wear whatever the hell we want? Socks are my favourite way of adding personality to an outfit. They give your outfit that extra pop. Socks are one of the very few things that men can afford to experiment with – so feel free to go crazy! If you want to make a statement there’s endless colours and patterns to choose from. Think of all the fun you can have!

RELAX A LITTLE Short sleeves, long sleeves, polos or t-shirts – it’s pretty amazing what rolling up your sleeves can do for an outfit. Simply folding the sleeve up on a dress shirt will immediately dress things down. Folding the sleeves on a white tee gives off that rockabilly edge and I have always found that pushing the sleeve up on a sweatshirt or long sleeve top just gives it that extra bit of something. Don’t over think what you are doing here, just roll those sleeves up.

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VIVID ACCESSORIES A flash of colour on the wrist, some playful protection on your phone or your head and neck kept warm and toasty. These are just a couple of examples of where you can add a splash of colour to your outfits. And this is without shouting about it on the street, risking a faux pas, embarrassment or breaking the bank. Surprising people with an accessory that they are not expecting is a fine way to be remembered and it provides a great point of focus – you’ll find that very few people expect to find someone rocking a neon pink watch. Colour is such a huge part of menswear so we should be embracing it. It’s something that is subtle, but not so subtle at the same time. Now I’m not saying go out and surprise people with an outfit made of burger buns. But if you do, send me a picture! We are all aware that men are taking more and more interest in how they look and it’s so important that we stay one foot ahead of the pack. Paying attention to detail is where you can make your outfit really stand out. All the above are just the simple things you can do effortlessly. Think outside the box.

MARK ANTHONY @MarkAnthonyy__

Photographer Ricky Mangala

Photographer Megan Gallagher Stylist Lewis Robert Cameron at Beyond Man MUA Rachel Ferran at Minxx Models Gareth Graham at CMPR Models and Ciara Thomas

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SUIT SUBVERSION In June 1998, David Beckham stepped out for a night on the town with Posh Spice by his side and a little something unexpected around his waist. I am of course referring to what is generally considered one of DB’s greatest fashion faux pas… the sarong. Pairing his monochrome printed full length skirt with a simple black sleeveless tee and a pair of leather open-toe sandals. Fast forward to 2015 and David’s bold and daring style statement no longer seems quite so disastrous. Why? The catwalks and the trendsetters no longer care for gender assigned garments, allowing men to wear skirts and women to don a high class suit, pulling them off with finesse, authority and refinement in the process. This basically means we need to throw a massive party because, ladies and gents, fashion is becoming a unisex pond home to genderless fish with a taste for non-conformity – and that is something worthy of celebration. We owe this all to androgyny, street style pioneers, and fashion designers who continuously refuse to create what is commercially acceptable for the majority of society. Designers who date all the way back to 1966, when Yves Saint Laurent introduced the Parisian runway to ‘Le Smoking’ suit, allowing women to discard the dresses and shun the skirts for a more masculine

option. An option burning with power, ambition and sartorial confidence and if women can pull off the Savile Row look, it’s only fair that men can dabble in the odd knee-length pleat or full length A-line, right? Jaden Smith certainly thinks so, attending prom in a crisp white number a few months back and doing so in an extremely slick and contemporary ensemble that screams fearless high fashion; adopting Jean-Paul Gaultier and Riccardo Tisci’s philosophy of wearing a skirt whenever you bloody well want. Another example includes Jared Leto who brought things a little closer to home back in 2011 donning a custom couture pleated skirt by Una Rodden to the MTV EMAs in Belfast. There does seem to be one common denominator present in all of the man-skirt cases, and that’s keeping things minimal and sophisticated in all kinds of monochrome. Women’s fashion takes inspiration for men as well. Celebrities such as Tilda Swinton, Kristen Stewart, Grace Jones and Rihanna know the joy of wearing a well-tailored, angular suit and the world absolutely loved it. The fashion world has become a place where everyone can express their personality, it breaks down the barriers of social convention and allows us all to confidently express ourselves in whatever way we want.

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“... A UNISEX STYLE HAVEN FOR LONDON’S COSMOPOLITAN CREATIVES; REMOVING LIMITATIONS, BOUNDARIES AND STEREOTYPES, WELCOMING SELFEXPRESSION WITH OPEN ARMS.”

Something which high-end fashion hotspot Selfridges has noticed. In January, they announced their flagship Oxford Street store would receive a ‘gender neutral’ makeover for three of the store’s department floors, making it the first to become a unisex style haven for London’s cosmopolitan creatives; removing limitations, boundaries and stereotypes, welcoming self-expression with open arms. Giving us a little taste of things to come, before launching a pop-up shop entitled ‘Agender’ to create a space where one could browse and purchase clothing as a single individual irrespective of their gender. But can the everyday, fashion-conscious man and woman remove their labels and stand united in style? I, for one, find it rather easy to mix womenswear into my everyday wardrobe, the reason being I am an avid wearer of sports luxe and streetwear ensembles. Generally in black and white, meaning I can find trousers, shorts, skirts, leggings, bomber jackets, vests and t-shirt dresses in sizes 16 or 18 and rock them in an oversized manner. Usually I incorporate various masculine elements via bags, shirts or shoes to keep the male ingredient in the mix, yet still maintaining an androgynous silhouette. In fact, attending London Collections: Men in June, I wore a dress every single day. The first, I customised into a t-shirt by cutting and tying the two sides together, the second I fringed completely from head to toe wearing a shirt and a pair of trousers underneath, and the third a mesh panelled number from a local designer found at Spitalfields market. It all comes down to the fact that commercial menswear designers tend to play things safe. I like my clothes to tell a story, to make people think and hopefully inspire. For guys looking to experiment with their style through the methods of androgyny and the avantgarde, womenswear offers all three. Be it a skirt, a dress, a kaftan, a kimono, a kilt or a sarong; don’t be afraid to try it. Even for one day and one day only. Find your inner McQueen, Vivienne Westwood or Maharishi and let loose on the world a liberal label-free individual who isn’t afraid to shake things up, donning the odd skirt while they do so. Girls out there, keep on borrowing from the boys and give ‘em hell.

LEWIS ROBERT CAMERON @BeyondManMag

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While some designers may break the often exhausted menswear mould with the use of outlandish garments and eccentric accessories for their LC:M runway shows, this is most certainly not the case for Matthew Miller. Although the typically accessible staples of menswear were most definitely present throughout Miller’s AW15 collection, all did not appear as it would usually seem. For Miller, AW15 was his time to challenge, to subvert, and to ultimately redesign the appropriation of menswear garments as a whole. Classic menswear pieces such as blazers, shirts and overcoats were all present and correct, but each with their own distinct manipulations and nuances. Deconstructed hems, exposed stitching and 3D pockets were just some of the features that defined Miller’s vision, with each piece subtly conveying the designers aversion to conventional construction. Arguably the most striking characteristic of the collection, and essentially the core factor of Miller’s overall AW15 vision, was his use of furniture fabric. Yes, furniture fabric. Apparently folks, ‘lounge’ wear has a whole new meaning! The deconstruction of traditional garment design isn’t, of course, unique to Miller. But this, coupled with the peculiarity of fabrics chosen, creates an utterly engaging collection that is not only compelling in its presentation, it also calls for an inquisitive response from audiences amidst the flurry of often fantastical fashion that can punctuate LC:M. Miller’s designs portrayed an assured defiance, particularly with

Photographer Michelle Walsh

SPOTLIGHT COLLECTION

MATTHEW MILLER AW15 40

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the addition of oversized ‘resistant’ tags dangling from the chests of models as they pounded the runway. This almost tonguein-cheek resilience further reinforced the notion that Miller is a potent purveyor of subversion – and is all the more adored for it. Colours were muted but memorable, with subtle hues of burgundy, navy and ivory delicately cascading down the runway (seamlessly intertwined yet each with their own individual prowess), culminating in a comforting aesthetic of ready-to-wear pieces that could somehow, in some way or another, still appeal to the ‘everyday’ person. The stand out pieces of the collection had to have been the flawless outerwear that adorned each model, in particular, a truly outstanding oxblood biker jacket that could convert even the safest of sartorialists to embrace their inner furniture fashionisto. Statement pockets and zips, coupled with the inimitable hue of a traditional Chesterfield armchair, created an almost surreal style statement that saw a fiercely bizarre collision of interiors and fashion. Similarly, the silhouette of a traditional overcoat was given a whole new lease of life with the use of a grey sheen textile that wouldn’t be out of place on your great aunt’s favourite sofa. Layered over a longer length fringed tee for full furniture effect, Miller succeeded in defeating his own deconstruction with a truly fabulous recreation. Confusing, eh? While each look easily held its own, there was a welcome consistency to the collection, made all the more appealing with the obvious accessibility of each piece to our existing wardrobes – the oversized greige tee would be an ideal companion to skinny black denims and chunky soled brogues, while those burnt orange pants would look simply sublime with some new season shearling. Shoes were corresponding throughout, with each look bringing with it a pair of chunky soled trainers in a parallel palette of colours. Of course, manipulation even manifested as far of the models’ feet, with shoelaces being covered by flaps of fabric. Why? Sure, why not? So, there we have it! In one furnitureinduced fell swoop, Miller succeeded in subverting the very notion of construction, and proved to be the new master of manipulation. Roll on spring, Master Miller!

JAMES BUTLER @JamesPatrice

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MFI MEETS

MARTIN ANDERSSON

Since its debut in 2007, COS has succeeded in transcending the traditional high-street ‘norms’ of its popular peers, offering customers a uniquely original experience of minimal aesthetics that, when worn, make a far from minimal sartorial impact. This juxtaposition is just one of the reasons with which the brand can calibrate its success. Said success is more than evident in Ireland since COS menswear was introduced in 2014. Irish shoppers immediately resonated with the simplistic yet resounding prowess of the brand’s design, fully embracing the fashionable ‘functionality’ of its vision.

What age were you when you moved to London?

With the brand continuing to flourish (having recently opened in the United States, with imminent plans for Canada), COS shows no sign of slowing down. This perseverance and evolution also proves true for its AW15 menswear collection, with influences from traditional Japanese aesthetics amalgamated with the concept of ‘outdoor activity’, culminating in a series of garments that allow their wearers to partake in a truly innovative fashion experience. Silhouettes are bigger, textures are richer, and each piece creates its own personal story.

What brands did you work for before joining COS?

MFI Editor Adam Gaffey managed to gain an exclusive interview with COS Menswear Designer Martin Andersson, in which the seasoned designer gives an insight into the illustrious world of COS, its fashion evolution, and its undoubtedly prosperous next move.

Head of Womenswear at COS Karin Gustafsson and Head of Menswear Martin Andersson

I was 20 years old. I actually started studying at a university in Sweden doing an Economics degree, which wasn’t my calling, so I came to London to study Art and Design and then went on to do Fashion at Central Saint Martins. I moved to London because it was a fashion capital, so I was obviously in heaven. The business school I went to in Sweden had an exchange program with a university in London so I had been there several times beforehand.

When I left Central Saint Martins, I went to work for Hackett which is a fairly traditional English company. At the time they wanted to take on a young designer that would create capsule ranges for them that was kind of working around the idea of traditional tailoring with a little bit of a twist to it. So that was a fantastic experience, to really learn the craftsmanship of good manufacturing. Then I left Hackett to set up my own studio and label for about four years called Martin Andersson, and when I stopped doing that, I went into a company called Aquascutum; another traditional British brand. While I was still at Aquascutum I got a call about an opening at COS and actually when I received the call I was wearing a pair of COS trousers, so I knew at that moment it was meant to be.

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What would you say are the fundamentals behind the COS brand? The heart of what we do is to provide the best possible design with the best possible quality but at an affordable price. So it’s a very democratic thing to give good design to everyone and we want to create fashion with longevity, something that lasts beyond the season but still feels super modern. And with that in mind, we all at COS, we’re real modernists at heart. We want it to feel modern, both in a sense that we should give the latest techniques, the latest technologies, and the best possible fabrications, but also modernists in a sense that function is super important; form follows function, and that’s something that we live by. How important is it to have a passionate and ambitious team driving the brand? It’s everything really, because COS, the structure of the company I would say is quite Scandinavian. It’s very flat, in which everyone gets involved and it’s all about team work. At the start of each season, Karin Gustaffson (Head of Womenswear) and I will set out the direction of the season, gather everything that inspires us from modern art, design, and architecture and put together stories, and then the team comes together to bounce ideas off each other. What is it about this collection that makes it different from the previous? For Autumn Winter 2015 we had two main themes. One of them was the idea of a strong Japanese influence, we discovered this art movement called Mono-ha which was started in the late 60s into early 70s and was one of the first modern art movements in Japan that was really their own – very minimal but very powerful work. Then at the same time, we went to see Marina Abramovic’s performance at the Serpentine Gallery last year and it was mind blowing, it was all about silence, and reduction, and peacefulness, but still so powerful. So the idea of this sense of a quiet drama, together with the Japanese design aesthetic became a very strong story for us. The second story we worked around for the collection was a book called ‘The Outsiders: The New Outdoor Creativity’ which was about this new global scene which developed about hiking and getting out in nature, but with good design. So there’s all this new gear with good design but very purposeful, so we then started talking about a sleeping bag like silhouette or a tent like silhouette. My favourite piece is definitely the Kimono set. Because for the press collection we did it in navy, actually when it comes to store, it’s going to come in black. So then it’s going to be the perfect evening wear set, a very strong statement too! This idea of a ‘set’ and not a ‘suit’ I think is super modern. What are your thoughts on sustainable fashion? For us at COS, it’s very important, because the sense of timelessness is something that is part of the business from the beginning and still is, of course! When we design a garment, we want it to last not just the season, but for years so we always spend a lot of time finding the best possible fabrics and the best possible manufacturing technologies to make pieces that are not to be thrown away. What does the future hold for menswear at COS? I mean, with COS in general, we have a really exciting expansion going on, we’ve just announced we are going into Canada and we opened in the United States last year. For menswear, we recently worked together with MR PORTER and we did a capsule range with them, and it was such a great success and very well received which we are extremely happy about. I mean we’re just going to continue what we’re doing really! Follow @cosstores

Photographer Tรกine King Model Carl Shaaban at Morgan the Agency Styling James Butler Styling Assistant Dean Nguyen Hair Raissa Gilligan MUA Tee Elliott Shot at Hudson Quarry, Blessington

Coat, Turtleneck, Boots, Belt, all from River Island; Trousers, Primark; Scarf, Burberry at Brown Thomas.

Opposite Page: Sweater, COS; Trousers, Primark; Shirt, Shoes, Bag, all River Island; Tie, Armani at Brown Thomas This Page: Sweater, Valentino at Brown Thomas; Shirt, Trousers, both COS; Shoes, Kurt Geiger at Arnotts; Bag, All Saints at Arnotts.

This Page: Blazer, Primark; Shirt, Dries Van Noten at Brown Thomas; Trousers, River Island; Shoes, Kurt Geiger at Arnotts Opposite Page: Blazer, Burberry at Brown Thomas; Shirt, Trousers, both COS; Shoes, River Island.

Opposite Page: Coat, Alan Taylor at Nowhere; Top, Shirt, Trousers, all COS; Boots, River Island. This Page: Coat, Turtleneck, Trousers, all River Island; Brogues, Grenson at Arnotts

ALTERED ATTIRE

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Photographer Arlene Bourke

Can you put a price on a well-fitted garment? We pay stacks of money, invest large amounts of time, and consult numerous experts in the pursuit of a lifestyle that fits us properly. When it comes to the clothes we wear, one mantra stands out in relation to dressing appropriately, Tom Ford’s ethereal comment from a GQ interview in 2013: ‘dressing well is a form of good manners’. If dressing well is a form of good etiquette, then it’s your duty to find a garment that aligns perfectly with the contours of your body.

the pleasure of wearing a properly fitted suit with high armscyes will agree that the incredible comfort, the freedom of movement, and the overall visual impact is beyond comparison. A well-fitted suit should be close to the outline of the body, yet remain in no way constricting. The shoulders should rest nicely with no creases and it’s important that the arm and shoulder is allowed to relax whether wearing something structured or soft.

FIND A TAILOR

This then leads us to a critical part of the suit’s fit – the jacket sleeve length. While it’s all about personal preference, it’s best to see between a half and a full inch of shirt cuff on display. Always remember, long sleeves suggest a poorly fitted jacket that has been taken from your grandad’s closet. These abnormal sleeves will be overemphasized when the jacket is worn open.

A skilled alteration tailor can have a considerable impact on improving your existing and future wardrobe. Finding the right pair of hands is well worth the search, as almost anything in your wardrobe can be engineered to look better. Sleeve length, excess material around the torso, and trouser size can all be adjusted to a certain degree. Building a conversational relationship with a tailor can be beneficial as they will become an invaluable companion for sound advice. A stitch in time might save nine, but a stitch in style may save those Levis that were always loved but never worn!

THE TAILORED SUIT When it comes to discussing the philosophy of a good fit, a focal point for any discussion always starts and ends with a suit. Any gentleman who’s had

THE IDEAL JACKET

One rule of thumb when closing the jacket is that the top button is the only clasp a sartorial man should ever close; never under any circumstance should the bottom button be fastened. It should feel snug and fitted when closed, this creates the ideal extenuated V-shaped silhouette. Jacket length is matter of taste, yet the ideal measure for a formal event would finish at the base of your thumb. Shorter jackets are fashionable and stylish; they originate from a Neapolitan style characterised by a soft blazer and deconstructed shoulders often worn for smart, informal events.

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THE PERFECT TROUSERS

One common pitfall revolves around the waistline, all too often guys will look to the belt to fix a bad fit. You should always be conscious of how your trousers are sitting on the waist: if too tight they will be incredibly uncomfortable, yet if too loose they will fall off the hips which results in a sloppy gathering of fabric at the bottoms of the trousers. The excess fabric looks unclean and takes away from the overall cut of the suit.

PATRICK O’DONNELL

Instagram @Patrick_o_donnell

Oliver Cheshire for Marks & Spencer Autograph AW15

Burberry London AW15

Dress trousers are constantly in a state of debate for the modern gentleman. A contemporary suit often favours slim trousers, while a classic cut offers the leg more room to breathe. Adding a pleat to the design provides a more distinguished, traditional look. Another classic idea is to incorporate a high-rise in the trousers. This effectively brings height to the waistline as the slacks will sit close to the middle of the stomach – a finish typically associated with the men of 1930s American cinema.

Ultimately, whether wearing a pair of jeans or a trench coat, you need to be aware of proportion. The correct visual form creates a lengthening of the body and the impression of added height. The silhouette we create (or have created for us) says much more without having to physically speak. Even if you don’t own a perfectly fitted suit yet, start paying closer attention to how your body interacts with your attire. The way you stand in your clothes is extremely important, always be mindful of posture – stand up straight! If we go through our day in silence, we still say something through the way we dress, the gestures we make, and the silhouette we reflect out onto the world.

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WISHLIST

NEW SEASON

1 1. Wild Privet Linen Bow Tie €85 bonagrew.com 2. Wine Baseball Jacket €335 Diesel at Arnotts 3. Sunglasses €29.99 H&M 4. Round Face Analogue Watch €45 Collezione at Marks and Spencer 5. Burgundy Tweed Blazer €170 River Island 6. Skull Detail Leather Bracelet €115 Alexander McQueen at Brown Thomas 7. Paint Splattered Twill Shirt €490 Saint Laurent at Brown Thomas 8. Cuff Links and Tie Clip €28 Next 9. Boots €80 Maine at Debenhams 10. Printed Floral Silk Tie €52 New and Lingwood at House Of Fraser

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Photographer Sherion Mullings

MODERN DAY DANDY There is a sense of the dandy flowing through the air of men’s fashion at the moment. Over the past few seasons the street style look has shifted from the Heidi Slimane’s skinny silhouette of sprayed-on jeans and V-necked t-shirts to the world of tailoring. The dandy brought about a change in the social circles of its time. Much like its modern counterpart, the dandy didn’t need to rely on their class standing but instead it was what they wore that made a statement. The dandy is a man who places particular importance upon physical appearance, refined language and leisurely hobbies. The dandy adapts their persona to suit their surroundings. The era of the dandy marked a point in fashion history where men became to view the importance of what they wore – their slogan was ‘to live and die before a mirror’. The exterior was paramount, what a man wore was more important than ever. They saw that the way they dressed had power. In order to pursue this power and to enter circles, which were usually closed to them, they could essentially dress the part. The existence of the dandy paved the way for modern men’s fashion. It opened the world of fashion to all classes. For the most famous of dandies, Oscar Wilde, this was imperative to his entrance into the exclusive circles of society. Coming

from Ireland, moving to Oxford and eventually to the social circles of London, Wilde embraced the character of the dandy. He made the three-piece suit his own, often opting for the pin-stripe style. He was a fan of the aesthetics and finer details of dress: ‘A really well-made buttonhole is the only link between Art and Nature’. The dandy ideal has continued throughout the decades. In the fictional world, F. Scott Fitzgerald’s Gatsby made great efforts to integrate into the crowd without actually being a part of the crowd. He dressed the part and for him the pink pinstripe suits and straw boater hats created the perfect persona. But as we moved further into the 20th century, lifestyles became more liberal as did fashion. The constraints of the suit were sacrificed for a more relaxed version of fashion and everyday wear. Over the decades men lost the hats and three-piece suits opting for a uniform of jeans, casual shirts and t-shirts. The suit was set aside for work, weddings and funerals. There was no desire for the intricacies of tailoring, for the delicate features which make a well-made suit. Fast fashion suited fast-paced lives and so the tailored suit was almost forgotten. Over the past few seasons there has been a shift in fashion towards more refined elements of style, for pieces that will stand the test of time. The ordinary guy on the

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WHAT IS IT ABOUT TAILORING THAT DEMANDS RESPECT?

David Gandy street is now looking more seriously towards the tailored suit. Neat tailoring is seeping into the realms of norm. Throughout media platforms, we see men dressing with more panache than ever before, and it isn’t just the office man. The suit guy carries a whole new meaning in 2015. The Mad Men phenomenon was the turning point for the men’s runway. The dapper dress of Don Draper, who wore a hat during the day and pyjamas to bed, was the fashion muse for both designers and the guy on the street. Draper oozed timeless style, something that was so far removed from what men had seen on the street for decades. Suddenly, the idea of a groomed exterior of a sharp suit and perfectly neat pocket square was the must-have look. The new U.S. TV hit Empire has picked up where Mad Men left off when it comes to tailoring. The men of Empire have created a new era of formality with their sharply cut three-piece suits. The Lion of the Empire, Lucious, harks back to the

wide collars of the 70s; he is never without a draped pocket square. He emulates the ethos of the dandy. This is a man who came from the streets and now through music is living amongst the big money players. His baggy jeans and doo-rag don’t cut it in this new world and so has donned the tailored suit to demonstrate his position in the world. His eldest son, Andre, follows suit. He wants to be taken seriously, to take over the company and so the cool, crisp threepiece is his powerful uniform. What is it about tailoring that demands respect? The design of the suit jacket was revolutionary. A good design will create a shoulder that straightens and broadens the natural shape of the wearer, and the floating chest piece streamlines the figure. There’s the pocket and flap, positioned to draw attention to the hips to create an ideal shape. Then there’s the collar that forms the focal part of the jacket. All these crucial design features rely on a complex interior to make it work as the powerful garment it is.

Today’s hipster street style has embraced the beauty of the three-piece suit bringing a modern element to it. Think of Justin O’Shea, buying director for mytheresa.com, matching it with the hipster beard, floral shirt and tie. There is a strong essence of the dandy here. Ireland’s very own Darren Kennedy has been spotted at London Fashion Week taking the dandy to the extreme with a matching bow tie. Others have even brought the sock into the equation with ankle grazing trousers showing off polka dot patterns. The philosophy of the dandy was made for the cobbles of street style. Our social media obsessed generation have numerous platforms where we craft our internet persona for the world to see. For so many this is done through fashion blogs and Instagram. It seems that the modern dandy motto has transformed to ‘live and die before a camera lens’.

PAULA BURNS

@stylewhisperer1

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JEREMY HACKETT:

The English Gentleman When we think of the words ‘bespoke’ or ‘tailoring’, the popular street of Savile Row in Central London is just one of the many destinations around the globe that instantly comes to mind, and let me tell you why. The area is renowned for its wealthy status, it was built in the 1700s and is the home of some of the most influential British tailors to ever have graced us with their presence. This includes the originator of the dinner jacket, Mr. Henry Poole whose company is the only original remaining residency on the street today, and then in more recent years, modernists Richard James, Ozwald Boateng, and Timothy Everest, all whom were a part of the memorable ‘New Bespoke Movement’ in the 90s.

“DURING HIS TIME ON SAVILE ROW, HE WAS ALMOST FROWNED UPON BY THE OLD SCHOOL TAILORS; BUT TOMMY STILL HAD THE TRADITIONAL TAILORING SKILLS, HE JUST INTERPRETED IT IN A WAY THAT IT WAS NEW AND FRESH.”

Although these designers are all somehow rule-breakers (in their own way), there’s one rebel in particular that shook up the world with his innovative merchandising and designs, and will forever remain a part of the history of Savile Row. Tommy Nutter who in 1969 opened up ‘Nutters on the Row’ with his business partner at the time Edward Sexton, would go against the unwritten handbook of the Savile tailors and lead a fashion revolution with wide lapels, daring colours, and a flamboyant attitude towards dressing. He broadened the accessibility of bespoke tailoring services to the public by presenting open window displays which would provoke his neighbours as it was very much a closed off market beforehand. In doing this, Tommy also sparked a whole new ideal of men’s fashion and inspired the generations to follow… we’ve even got the proof! Veteran designer Jeremy Hackett found himself working right across the street from the Nutters on the Row when he was just a kid, and was privileged enough to witness Tommy’s extravagant skills first hand. Jeremy talks about Tommy’s influence on the Hackett London AW15 capsule collection ‘I really enjoyed the way Tommy put fabrics together. During his time on Savile Row, he was almost frowned upon by the old school tailors; but Tommy still had the traditional tailoring skills, he just interpreted it in a way that it was new and fresh.’

Hackett AW15

Starting off with a stall of second-hand clothing which they would clean, repair, and then sell on, Jeremy went into partnership with Ashley-Lloyd Jennings in 1979, before opening the first Hackett London store in 1983 on New Kings Road in London. Attracting a similar audience to Savile Row, there soon became a demand for newly manufactured products which Hackett could supply. After the success of the first store opening, a chain of shops were then bought all within one hundred yards of each other with each space specialising in a different department, and the area soon became known to cabbies as ‘Hackett Cross’. Recognise that this was only the beginning!

- FASHION How do you feel men’s style has evolved over the last decade and why? It has evolved massively. I think it’s down to the access to the internet and the amount of images that are constantly being thrust upon men on how to look or how to dress. There is a lot more access to advice nowadays, well compared to when I was a kid, I think out of all the magazines I could buy when I was seventeen and eighteen it was the early GQs. Do Hackett customers know what they want when shopping? I think that depends on whichever store they go to. If they visit the Sloane Street store it’s a real destination shop, the guy comes straight in there and says ‘I want a three piece suit’; when the guy who walks in to Regent Street could really buy anything while he is looking around. Mostly it’s the older guys who are interested in buying something that works for them, quality in the price and being looked after properly. Hackett is a traditional British brand with stores now in over fifteen countries and continues to channel its core values to this day. How does the brand maintain this image? The interesting thing is that in many of the countries that we sell too, they are more inspired by Britishness than we are here in England. It’s that thing of ‘distance lends enchantment’, you know? Spain, which is our biggest business, is incredibly an anglophile, France equally so, and if you go to Italy, all the best dressed Italians look to Britain. So there’s a real appreciation internationally, and there’s this sort of feeling that when people become successful they look to Britain to have their clothes made, whether it’s a shirt or shoes, because there’s this aspiration whether it’s true or not or it’s just a romantic notion of being an ‘English gentleman’. The ‘Sheep, Shape, and London Fashion’ AW15 collection was presented at London Collections: Men in January this year with GQ editor Dylan Jones, male super model David Gandy, and BFC menswear ambassador Dermot O’Leary all taking a seat front row. Working with Britain’s renowned Fox Brothers Mill, Hackett designed woollen three-piece suits which were seen in wide check and pin stripes patterns, along with a reversible shearling waist coat, a double breasted military jacket, and a bunch of other sartorial garments for the colder seasons. The wide range of accessories included a statement ‘H’ wooden necklace, tan lined ear muffs, an oversized white scarf, and patch work stitched bowler hats, all in which we’ve already being eyeing up for our wardrobe. What keeps you interested in the creative process for each season? I’m not sure really. I design the capsule collection each season and we have a whole team of designers working on the main collection which I also oversee. I’ve got a few ideas for next season though which I have a great name for (I can’t tell you though), but it’s perfect for the brand. I quite like words, statements, and intent – I think once I have that, I’m off. What’s your favourite piece from the collection? I think I like the Prince of Wales check suit, with the dog tooth trousers and waist coat, and the turn back cuffs. Because, you know, even though it’s different, it’s still easy to wear. It’s quite subtle, and that has been picked up by our customers which is great. It’s really is a nod to Tommy as well. While highlighting the history of Savile Row and influential designers like Nutter, Jeremy continues to incorporate British elements throughout his collections and drives support for the UK’s manufacturing industry. He has reminded us of the talents that have lived the test of time through their experimental use of techniques and marketing, the importance of our world’s past, and just how much we appreciate it. Thanks Jeremy!

ADAM GAFFEY @AdamGaffey

Three Piece Suit River Island; Scarf Hackett London; Shirt Calvin Klein at Arnotts; Bag River Island.

expensive taste Photographer Steven Gallagher Model Ronan M at Distinct Model Management Stylist Dean Nguyen Hair Stylist Ste Mooney MUA Mark Anthony Location Bond Street Studios Chair Vintage Ralph Lauren

This Page: Trousers, Shirt, Braces all from Hackett London; Coat River Island; Shoes Kurt Geiger at Arnotts. Opposite Page: Coat, Turtleneck both River Island; Trousers Boss at Louis Copeland; Scarf Gagliardi at Arnotts.

Top Page: Three Piece Suit, Boss at Louis Copeland; Shirt and Tie, Hackett London; Shoes Kurt Gieger at Arnotts Opposite Page: Coat and Turtleneck River Island; Trousers Boss at Louis Copeland; Shoes Kurt Geiger at Arnotts.

Opposite Page: Blazer Hackett London; Turtle Neck Farah Vintage at Arnotts; Trousers Strellson at Arnotts; Shoes Boss at Arnotts. Top Page: Tuxedo, Shirt, Bow Tie, Cufflinks all from Hackett London; Shoes Hugo Boss at Arnotts; Sunglasses Topman.

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BOND THE EVER CHANGING IMAGE OF THE ULTIMATE ‘MAN’S MAN’

Illustration Conor Merriman

Ever since he was first introduced to cinema beginning with 1962’s Dr. No, the idea of who James Bond was and what he embodied could be whittled down with the age-old description of ‘Women want him, Men want to be him’. For close to a decade, the Mr. Universe runner-up, Sean Connery was exactly what men longed to be compared to. Following on from Connery, George Lazenby is perhaps the most underrated Bond to date, but having won Male Model Of The Year just three years before his role in On His Majesty’s Secret Service he was certainly considered desirable by his audience. Next up Roger Moore, hot off his work as Simon Templar in hit TV series The Saint, portrayed a cheekier charm than Connery – one that mirrored what the audience wanted during the late 70s and early 80s. Perhaps the less said about the incredibly dour Timothy Dalton the better, but Pierce Brosnan course corrected Bond’s image in the eyes of the public. It was also around this time that the Bond movies began to take proper notice of the power of their image and marketability, which leads us right up to today. Perhaps the first sign that the makers of 2006’s Casino Royale were dragging Bond kicking and screaming into the modern interpretation of masculinity was when Daniel Craig emerged from the ocean in those teeny, tiny swimming shorts. Paralleling the similar emergence of Ursula Andress in Dr. No, what we’re supposed to know isn’t that Bond can seduce any object of desire you put in front of him; Bond is the object of desire now. The late 00s and early 10s have brought with them some very forwardthinking applications of masculinity

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“... WHAT WE’RE SUPPOSED TO KNOW ISN’T THAT BOND CAN SEDUCE ANY OBJECT OF DESIRE YOU PUT IN FRONT OF HIM; BOND IS THE OBJECT OF DESIRE NOW.”

and male sexuality. What kicked off as metrosexuality soon developed into spornography (basically men idolizing not just their sport stars or porn stars, but wishing to emulate their body types – not unlike Craig’s physique) and most recently, the concept of heteroflexibility. While not necessarily falling under the label of bisexuality, heteroflexibility consists of curiosity or mild/rare experimentation. While we’re not labelling James Bond bi-curious, the movies we’ve found him have placed him in some very curious situations. Think of the torture scene in Casino Royale, with Bond tied naked to a chair, while the big bad guy Le Chiffre comments, ‘You certainly do take care of your body’, before attempting to destroy his genitals with a knotted rope. Similarly in Skyfall, Bond once again finds himself tied to a chair (fully dressed this time), while bad guy Raoul Silva caresses his chest, as Bond teases ‘Who says this is my first time?’ Oh yes, this is very much a modern Bond. The Bourne Supremacy director Paul Greengrass dismissed the character of James Bond as ‘a misogynist, an oldfashioned imperialist’ – something that may have been previously correct, but not something that can be levelled at Craig’s iteration. Having had his heart broken by his double-agent girlfriend played by Eva Green in Casino Royale, Bond has continued doing his job as a fractured, emotionally damaged weapon, and one that constantly causes problems for that ‘oldfashioned imperialist’ MI6 during Quantum Of Solace and Skyfall. This vulnerable/ powerful mix is what some ladies might refer to as ‘the ultimate fixer-upper’. Naturally, with such huge potential at influencing viewers’ lives, Bond can’t just begin and end with the movie. Anyone who watched Skyfall will know that Bond likes to wear Tom Ford suits and top-of-the-line Omega watches, drive incredibly sexy and speedy Audis and Aston Martins, use those nifty gadgets supplied by Sony. And when he’s not drinking his trademark vodka martini, he can be seen guzzling down a Heineken or Coke Zero (gotta watch those calories, don’t we Bond?). Quantum Of Solace broke the record for product placement (beating previous record holder Die Another Day) by containing 79 million dollar’s worth of advertising products. Sex

sells, Bond is sexy and has a lot of sex, ergo… Bond sells! Off the back of Skyfall, a film that garnered both critical and commercial success, the cinema going world is now beginning to take Bond very seriously. SPECTRE sees director Sam Mendes return to finish what he started in Skyfall. He has successfully reintroduced some modern takes on major characters – Miss Moneypenny, Q – and helped reboot some aspects that had been around since 1995’s GoldenEye – we’ll miss you, Dame Judi Dench – while also crossing the billion dollar mark at the box office, winning a handful of Academy Awards, and leaving the audience hungry for more. SPECTRE looks set to continue this momentum of forward thinking with the inclusion of Monica Bellucci. The stunning Italian actress will be 51 years old when the movie hits cinemas, making her far more mature than the usual Bond Girls with which James gets tangled up. Bellucci tested for the role of Paris Carver in 1997’s Tomorrow Never Dies (the role ultimately went to Teri Hatcher). Pierce Brosnan stated at the time, ‘The fools said no!’, with rumours swirling that Bellucci was considered too old for the part. Despite being eighteen years older now, Bellucci is still one of the most beautiful women in the world, and will know hold the title of Oldest Bond Girl, beating out previous record holder, Honor Blackman as Pussy Galore in Goldfinger, who was 39 when the movie was released. While we don’t yet know what steps forward SPECTRE has in store for Daniel Craig, considering all of the leaps and bounds that have been made by the Bond series to date, and rumours of future instalments potentially featuring our first Black Bond (Idris Elba) and, perhaps less culturally significant, our first Ginger Bond (Damian Lewis), this series of films truly does continue to mirror the progress of modern men, modern women, while still reflecting back what it is that we as a society find attractive.

RORY CASHIN @roarEcashin

SPECTRE will be released in cinemas on November 6th 2015.

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TIE

ALTERNATIVES

Ah, the elusive tie! Long been a steadfast staple of tradition and conformity, the neck tie appears to be on the losing side of a sartorial revolt this season, with some AW15 runways purveying a ruthless negation of the iconic neck piece. While the tie will, of course, remain an office affixation for the foreseeable future, we have decided to take a look at some newseason neck alternatives for other tailormade situations, and have come up with three collared alternatives that will leave you runway ready!

JAMES BUTLER @JamesPatrice Photographer Niamh O’Shaughnessy

THE TURTLE NECK Finally, it’s time to explore what is essentially the most accessible alternative to a tie – the turtle neck. Although it has always punctuated menswear in some shape or form, the turtle neck has undergone a very obvious resurgence in recent years, with everyone from high street stores to red carpet regulars all embracing the ribbed fashion favourite. Darker hues are usually the preferred choice – rich burgundies work fabulously layered under tweed blazers and wool overcoats for some serious heritage chic, while blacks and greys in finer fabrics act as an inspired approach to evening wear. Clashing textures will also garner some serious style cred.

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THE CRAVAT When opting for an evening ensemble, one immediately thinks of dusting off their finest tie or bow tie; however, we have always had a soft spot for the often disregarded cravat. Perhaps it’s connotations of dodgy Debs wear have caused a subconscious eradication from our memories, but, it’s high time we took a stab at this forgotten favourite. When not teamed with an ill-fitting cummerbund in a parallel hue, a cravat can make a very subtle but effective style statement, particularly if the rest of your ensemble is kept relatively restrained. The high street has a plethora of printed scarves that will easily replicate the same effect of this traditional evening look, but, for full authenticity, we recommend investing in a classic cravat in all its gentrifying glory.

THE STATEMENT COLLAR A brooch may not be the first accoutrement that the average Irish male may consider when piecing together a tailored look, but, it can often prove to be a rather inexpensive and refreshingly unique way to curate your own individual style. For this particular variation on the tie, we’ve simply jazzed up a vintage hounds tooth blazer with a colour-corresponding brooch, the likes of which are readily available on the high street. Coupled with the prominence of a statement button down collar, this look is an ideal way to add some ornate elegance to a classic blazer. Should bijoux not be your appendage of choice, simply stick with a statement collar – sometimes, less can really be a whole lot more!

- HEALTH -

ALL THE

RIGHT RECIPES Let’s not kid ourselves, the pressure to perform and look good while doing so has never been greater. Performance in the workplace, on the pitch, in the gym, and even in the bedroom, and you’ve got to look the part as well. It’s all about high intensity, productivity, creativity, explosive movements, foreplay and fair play! The trouble is – this pressure can result in stress, wear and tear, oxidative damage, fatigue or injury. One of the first places this becomes evident is on our skin, our hair, our eyes and our appearance. Worry not, we are here to guide you on how to fuel elite performance and recovery. We have transferred our knowledge of working with elite athletes and high level business executives into developing recipes and food preparation that work for busy professionals. We understand that people have such busy schedules and lifestyles nowadays and simply don’t have the time to spend hours in the kitchen. We keep it clean and simple and give people energy foods, health protective foods and foods to combat stress. Not only that, but our recipes look good and taste great – Healthy Sexy Food – that’s our motto! See, it is possible to have food which tastes amazing, looks great, is not only healthy but accessible too, practical and mobile as well, try out these recipes to see for yourself.

THOMAS COLEMAN AND JEENY MALTESE mynutritionireland.ie

- HEALTH -

EASY AND QUICK ENERGY BITES You can add different flavours to this basic recipe, vanilla, orange zest, cocoa powder, cinnamon, chia seeds, honey, hazelnuts, cashew nuts, etc. We roasted 1/2 cup of almonds in the oven for 10 minutes, let them cool for extra flavour and use the other 1/2 cup of raw almonds for nutritional value. These little bites are charged with energy and nutrients, perfect for the man on the go and the oils in the nuts keep your heart healthy and blood vessels strong.

INGREDIENTS 1 cup of whole almonds 1 cup of desiccated coconut or oats A large handful of pitted dates (8-10)

INSTRUCTIONS Blend almond and coconut/oats in a food processor then add dates slowly; you might need more dates, honey or maple syrup depending on your food processor. Work the dough and make into balls with your hands or melon baller, you can eat them plain or you could roll them on coconut, cocoa powder, in sesame seeds or dip them in melted dark chocolate. Keep in an airtight container or freezer bags, they will last for weeks (as all ingredients are dry fruits & nuts) no dairy, no wheat, no refined sugars. Enjoy!

- HEALTH -

GLAZED SALMON You can replace bok choy with baby spinach, or any of your favourite vegetables. Serve with your favourite carbs, quinoa, wholegrain rice, wholegrain couscous or whole grain noodles. Health Benefits of Salmon: It is an excellent source of high-quality protein, vitamins and minerals (including potassium, selenium and vitamin B12) but it is their content of omega-3 fatty acids that contributes to healthy brain function, heart, joints and general wellbeing. Selenium is also essential for a good sex drive and virility.

INGREDIENTS 1 cup of soy sauce 1/4 cup of honey 2 tablespoons of lemon juice 1 inch of peeled fresh ginger (thinly sliced) 3 cloves of garlic (crushed) 4 salmon fillets (about 1 1/2 pounds) 4-6 heads of baby bok choy (roots trimmed off, optional veg)

INSTRUCTIONS Whisk soy sauce, honey, lemon juice, ginger, and garlic together until honey dissolves. Reserve 1/4 cup of marinade in separate bowl, then place salmon fillets, skin-side up, in marinade. Allow to marinate for at least 10 minutes (the longer you leave it to marinade the better). Meanwhile, preheat grill to high heat. Heat 1/4 cup of water in a medium sauce pan over high heat and bring to a boil. Add bok choy and cover. Allow to steam until almost tender, about 2-4 minutes. Remove from heat and water then add reserved marinade. Toss to combine. Put the salmon under the grill skin-side down and broil without turning until exterior is well-caramelized and the fish is just cooked through, 7-10 minutes, depending on thickness and the distance from the grill. Arrange bok choy on plates and top with the salmon fillets.

- HEALTH -

LEAN MUSCLE CHICKEN SATAY This dish is all about recovery and delivering all the nutrients you need to kick start muscle repair and provide energy to aching muscles. Ideal for after a workout/game and it tastes great. The chicken provides lean, clean protein which feeds muscles. The peanut butter and coconut provide essential fats for hormone production and have a very low GI which releases energy at a slow and steady rate. The chilli contains capsaicin which keeps metabolism burning and the spinach and peppers are full of fibre and antioxidants.

INSTRUCTIONS

INGREDIENTS: (4 SERVINGS)

Serve on a bed of raw spinach with whole grain rice or noodles, garnish with fresh chopped coriander and crunchy toasted peanuts or almonds.

Put a wok or deep frying pan on mediumhigh heat and add a teaspoon of oil. Add chicken to the pan, chilli, ginger, garlic, onions and peppers, salt & pepper, stir fry for 5-10 minutes until chicken is cooked. Add sugar cane or honey, curry powder, soy sauce, fish sauce, peanut butter, coconut milk, water and lime zest. Cook for 15-20 minutes medium-low heat uncovered. (Add a bit more water if the sauce is too thick).

2 chicken breasts (diced) 1-2 teaspoons of oil (any oil) 1 red chilli (finely chopped) 2-3 cloves of garlic (finely chopped) 1 tablespoon grated ginger 1 onion (chopped bite sizes) ½ red + ½ green pepper (chopped bite sizes) 1 tablespoon of raw sugar cane (or honey) 1 tablespoon of curry powder 1 tablespoon of soy sauce 2 handfuls of spinach 2-3 tablespoons of peanut butter ½ can of coconut milk ½ cup of water 1 lime zest 1 packet of whole grain noodles or rice noodles salt and pepper

To cook noodles, cover with boiling water and simmer for 6-8 minutes or just follow instructions.

- GROOMING -

FACIAL FLASH In an issue focused on tailoring, and the sartorial selections that shape how we present ourselves to the world, it seems only right that we take the time to also focus on another very important factor of our person – the visage. Yes gentlemen, it’s time to (momentarily) cast fashion aside, and in its place, discuss the rather illustrious world of facials.

of dermatological disasters you may have heard from grooming naysayers are most definitely false – the particular treatment that I received at the Vanity Rooms lasted just 30 minutes, and left me ready to continue with the rest of my day (along with a rather exceptional glow, if I do say so myself). The facial itself is quite a technical process, with different stages of exfoliation and area-specific treatments culminating in a half hour flash treatment. A detailed skin questionnaire is filled out before you receive the facial, just to be sure that all the products used are compatible with your skin and lifestyle (this is just a precautionary measure). To begin, the skin is lightly cleansed to remove any excess oil and impurities, and is then lightly steamed to open the pores. Following a thorough exfoliation, a rejuvenating treatment is applied, along with a stimulating eye serum (the Dermalogica products used are a perfect composition of gentle but efficient cleansing). The skin is also moisturised, before a final finishing treatment. Afterwards, the results are genuinely outstanding- a subtle glow, brightened eyes and a general feeling of invigoration.

It goes without saying that even the ‘manliest’ of men (for want of a better societal appropriation) more than likely have some form of a skincare regime. Be it a quick face wash in the shower or a lathering of that Christmas gift set moisturiser that somehow manages to last until the following December given its usually sporadic use, Irish men have certainly come around to the notion that skincare is an important part of our aesthetic rituals. However, an actual knowledge of our skin, and its need to receive specific care, is something that perhaps hasn’t entered the male psyche just yet- but it’s getting there. Before we delve into full facial territory, let’s discuss the basicsevery man should have an effective face wash and moisturiser to hand every morning, preferably one that is suited to your skin type and will ideally offer more than just a good cleanse. A good face wash is half the battle in skincare, and coupled with a high-quality moisturiser, you’ll be glowing in no time. I personally swear by the Kiehl’s range of moisturisers- their facial fuel has SPF and provides excellent hydration, without overpowering your skin.

So gentlemen, will you consider taking the plunge into this time honoured skincare ritual? At just half an hour (and €30), a facial is the ideal way to not only mix up your lunch break, but to give your skin a rousing renewal - and make an exceptional first impression to boot.

Of course, it takes more than just a daily regime to keep your best face forward, which is why I recently tried and tested the ‘Flash Exfoliation’ facial from the Vanity Rooms. For any men that may be wary of facials, be assured that any horrific tales

JAMES BUTLER @JamesPatrice For more info, visit www.vanityrooms.ie

Brown Belt €29.50 Marks & Spencer; Blue Wool-Blend Overcoat €160 River Island; Floral Shirt €42 Jeff Banks at Debenhams; Catskill Oxford Brogues, Office; Grey Check Suit Jacket and Grey Check Suit Trousers, both Gagliardi at Arnotts; Diamond Spot Silk Tie €52 Kenneth Cole at House Of Fraser; Bordered Pocket Square €9.99 H&M

Photographer Arlene Bourke