MFI Magazine Spring 2016 by MFI Magazine

SPRING 2016 M E N ’ S FA S H I O N I R E L A N D M AG A Z I N E

MFI MAGAZINE ISSUE 13 Magazine Credits

Contact Information

Editor in Chief Adam Gaffey

For all enquires please email us at info@mfimagazine.com

Art Director Michelle Walsh

@MFIMagazine

Fashion Editor James Butler

MFI Magazine has official channels on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, Snapchat, YouTube and Pinterest.

Copy Editor Elaine Connolly Writers Paula Burns Lewis Robert Cameron Niamh Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Donoghue Contributing Photographers Kristijan Antolovic Caoimhe Hahn TĂĄine King Francesco Lo Iacono Eilish McCormick Sherion Mullings Patrick Quinn Byrne

Visit our website mfimagazine.com

Issue 13 | On the Cover Creative Direction Antolovic & Solarevic Photographer Kristijan Antolovic Styling Andrija Solarevic MUA Ellen Chen Model Stephen at NotAnother Agency Stephen wears jacket and t-shirt, Dolce & Gabbana at Brown Thomas.

Contributing Designers Grace Coakley MFI Magazine is registered in Co.Wicklow, Ireland. ISSN 2009-7654 (Print) ISSN 2009-7662 (Online)

Photographer Michelle Walsh

EDITOR’S NOTE No matter how hard we try, there’s a certain aspect of the 90s that we just can’t let go of. Memories of eccentric colour palettes, unnecessary nose rings, baggy denim dungarees and bowl haircuts continue to inspire our street style and catwalk collections today. It was a decade which fully embraced the evolution and growth of society, while being challenged by economic and political issues and brought unity amongst the people. Once the early recession ended, multiculturalism and technology progressed as the unforgettable rave scene came of age and increased in popularity. Underground clubs and deserted warehouses were transformed into large-scale house parties as clubbers danced the night away. Hip-hop music became a mainstream sound and had a massive impact on streetwear and created a new identity for American youth. The alternative rock movement formed a grunge subculture originating in Seattle and capturing an audience worldwide. It was a time of creativity, freedom and positivity which influenced a new generation of art, music and fashion extending the possibilities for the future. What is it about the 90s that still resonates today? What does it have left to offer?

ADAM GAFFEY

DIRECTORY

T Take it from the Streets ADAM GAFFEY

W Wishlist

When Everything Feels Like Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re No Good To Me the Movies

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Funnel Neck Jacket €50 boohooMAN; Beige Sweater €24.99 New Look; Mid Wash Denim Jeans €115 Levi’s 501 at Arnotts; Navy Cap €35 GANT at Arnotts; Camel Trainers €80 River Island.

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STREET STYLE

LONDON While the world’s fash-pack may immediately turn their attention to the runways of London Collections: Men to garner sartorial inspiration for seasons to come, we here at MFI have long championed LC:M’s alternative trendsetters and their innate ability to act as fashion fortune-tellers of next season’s must-have looks. I’m referring, of course, to the inimitable street-style of LC:M’s attendees and the effortless ensembles that they curate while pounding the pavements of the city’s hottest spots. This season once again saw some serious tailoring tendencies, this time punctuated with athletic accents of statement trainers and luxe backpacks. An urban edge was maintained throughout, with accessories acting as the ultimate signifier of unintentional – but totally purposeful – aesthetic prowess. As always, MFI’s photographers were on hand to capture the latest in this season’s sensational street style. Photographers Sherion Mullings and Patrick Quinn Byrne

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FOCUS ON ACCESSORIES

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CHRISTOPHER SHANNON Statement sweaters and explosive outerwear

Utilitarian jackets in greige hues with relaxed sports-luxe silhouettes

MAHARISHI

RUNWAY REPORT

Photographers Caoimhe Hahn, Michelle Walsh and Francesco Lo Iacono

RICK OWENS

Longer length vests in varying textures and sweeping reams of fabric

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MATTHEW MILLER Deconstructed pieces and longer lengths

As much as it pains me to admit, the Irish man can often be limited when it comes to finding sartorial inspiration on his home turf, particularly in regards to designerinspired details. Now, I’m certainly not one to slate the day-to-day style of our fair isle – if anything, its progress should be rejoiced – but it can’t be denied that when it comes to fashion-focused affairs of the male variety, things can be a tad sparse on our shores. Of course, one needn’t fear, my fashionable friends. We here at MFI pride ourselves on our ability to cast our menswear-minded eyes across the proverbial pond when it comes to garnering new season ensemble inspiration, and have compiled a list of the hottest runway property for you to feast your tailored taste buds on. The question is, will you be London lovin’ or Paris proud? While spring may immediately evoke notions of bold colours and pop-printed pastels – the mere thought of which some men veer vehemently clear – London’s SS16 runways had a rather refreshing approach to next season’s styles, with many designers opting for a relaxed yet assured aesthetic of nudes and muted monochromes. Maharishi seamlessly united utilitarian jackets in dulcet greige hues with relaxed, camo-printed jackets in sports-luxe silhouettes, reinforcing the apparent emphasis on alternative outerwear shapes that will inevitably filter its way to the high street in the coming months. Liam Hodges was a curator of this utilitarian feel too, albeit in a considerably more obvious manner. The distinctive prowess of Matthew Miller’s deconstructed pieces and longer lengths were further emphasised by unimposing shades of beige and navy, while Rory Parnell Mooney succeeded in creating a collection of designs whose angular elements of cutaways and flowing silhouettes proved that monochrome most definitely needn’t be mundane. Of course, it was the usual fashion folk who created the most buzz, with Christopher Shannon’s statement sweaters and explosive outerwear making him the go-to for the ultimate in London luxe, not to mention his triumph in reigniting our love for ironic 90s denim. Similarly,

Casely-Hayford and Katie Eary negated the apparent domination of new neutrals across the SS16 board, instead creating a welcome sense of fun in their respective collections with geometric shapes and city-slicker selections – the latter’s 70s inspired ombré shirts and psychedelic prints were a personal highlight. This element of ‘obvious’ exploration was even more apparent in our next fashion capital of the world – after all, we can’t analyse SS16 without consulting our fashionable French counterparts. Paris’s elite, while usually known for their inimitably effortless ensembles, were exposed to a plethora of patterns and deconstructed tailoring on the Walter Van Beirendonck SS16 runway, with primary greens and vibrant violets both being punctuated by plumed head pieces that offered an eerie insight into an almost Wonderland-inspired world. While WVB’s collection focused on a myriad of menswear ideals, Rick Owens instead opted to explore the limitless possibilities of fashion as functionality. Longer length vests in varying textures were emblazoned with sweeping reams of fabric; almost embodying the modern essence of a militant uniform of sorts – complete with distressed cut-offs and manipulated materials. Would you dare to bare those arms? It could ultimately be argued that, for the MFI man, London immediately evokes a sense of iconic ownership when it comes to men’s fashion, not only for its geographical convenience but also for its apparent aptitude for igniting a sense of accessibility in its collections (Topman, as always, created an instantly wearable runway). That said, one cannot help but feel totally mesmerised by the sheer fantasy of Paris’s menswear shows (and it’s undeniably theatrical tendencies) which never fails to transport its spectators into an all-consuming world of sensory wonder. So gentlemen, which fashion capital’s collections will you be emulating this season – the unimposing neutrals of London or the fantastical features of Paris?

JAMES BUTLER @JamesPatrice

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MENSWEAR DESIGNER

SHANE CHIN Shane Chin is the Head Menswear Designer of the fast-growing brand, boohooMAN . Based in the UK, Shane works with his team each season to create versatile collections that cater to a wide audience. A feeling of young, street vibes flow throughout the online store this spring and we caught up with Shane to see what’s trending. When did you decide this was the career you wanted to pursue? I’ve always been creative from a young age, pencil in hand, drawing, sketching or doodling. I studied Art and Design and 3D Design at college and then went on to further my studies in Design at university. This enabled me to build skills in all aspects of the creative industry, including visual and designing for production. How do you stay motivated each season? It might sound cliché but the thing I find most rewarding is working for boohoo and being responsible for knowing the brand, its DNA and what it stands for. Having the opportunity to shape and mould the brand, designing commercial ranges that will be sold globally. It keeps me motivated seeing the clothes we design, then go online and the sales coming in. The most exciting thing is when you spot people out on the street in your designs. I don’t see it as work. For me, fashion is my passion and the people and the team around me make every day enjoyable. There are always challenges within any industry, especially when you’re responsible for a team. My tip would be respect your team and get to know them. When was the last time you shopped online? On the weekend actually, I bought a new pair of kicks! I enjoy footwear, especially styles with nice details or in more unusual colour ways. Do you prefer to shop online or in store? I enjoy both for different reasons but it depends on what I’m purchasing. The great thing about purchasing online is that it’s less stressful and a lot

easier than rushing around the shops, I love being able to browse and shop in the comfort of my own home. How does the design process begin each season? We usually start the season by building a range, this would involve Fashion Forecasting which comprises of lots of research and analysis of ongoing fashion events, catwalk shows, trade shows, fabric shows and studying collections. Once forthcoming trends and themes are established, we then create mood boards looking at new key colours, fabrics, trims and key silhouettes. From this we’d build and design our new collections! Talk to us about the inspiration behind the SS16 Collection. What’s your favourite piece? SS16 is made up of four key trends: URBAN SPORT, UTILITY, MOD and NAUTICAL messages and all has been influenced by sportswear and street tailoring. There was a strong focus on technical fabrics such as neoprene, zip detailing and oversized silhouettes for a little bit of attitude. Shapes and silhouettes have been influenced by the big return to lifestyle dressing such as skate and surf. What are your key wardrobe essentials for spring? The staple pieces for SS16 should be a piece of outerwear: the bomber jacket, summer mac or OTH (over the head) cagoule. All versatile staples for your wardrobe. If you’ve got these covered you’re pretty much ready for any event. What does the future hold for boohooMAN? Sky’s the limit! boohooMAN has only been around for just over two years and we have already seen amazing growth. There is so much more we can do, we’re currently developing new products on a daily basis and expanding our range constantly. I’d like to think we continue to grow as a brand globally and continuously push menswear fashion forward. With a great team, how could we not? Follow @boohooMAN on Twitter

- FEATURE boohooMAN SS16 Lookbook

“THE MOST EXCITING THING IS WHEN YOU SPOT PEOPLE OUT ON THE STREET IN YOUR DESIGNS.”

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ALL SYSTEMS GO... Famke Janssen’s Jean Grey declared ‘every few millennia evolution leaps forward’ in the closing sequence of the phenomenal X2 film in which we saw the flame-haired, class five mutant save her fellow super-powered comrades and sacrifice herself in the process. What on earth does this have to do with fashion, you ask?

my own perspective, if I see something at a show or installation I basically want it there and then. I don’t want to have to wait the guts of half a year until it’s available. If I can’t get it from the source, I will get it somewhere else in some shape or form. So, it makes complete sense to adopt the fast fashion approach to ensure people buy what they want, when they want it. Otherwise, by the time it does come out, you are either bored of seeing it or you no longer want it.

Catwalk fashion is moving with the times and its options are fight or flight and most of them are choosing fight! Certain high-end and extremely wellknown design houses are sacrificing their traditional runway roots, altering their brand aesthetic and making the dramatic move into the realm of fast fashion – allowing their collections to be purchased almost instantaneously.

It also combats high street plagiarists filtering specific trends and catwalk detailing into their own stores following the success of a designer’s collection. They will no longer have the four to five month headstart to churn out designer copies, rendering the catwalk collections completely ‘shoppable’ and wholly exclusive from the word ‘go’, placing the commercial power back in the rightful hands of the designer.

The traditional fashion system is one with which we are all well and truly familiar. Known as the seasonal approach in which designers and brands debut their new lines on the catwalk many months before they will actually be available to buy in store or online.

What does this mean for fashion as a whole? Expect seismic ripples and a complete reshuffle as the new ‘See Now, Buy Now’ paradigm forces fashion magazines to adjust to a new climate in which they will no longer be the first to present the runway collections and creating difficulties for high street retailers to produce trends later than anticipated and leave smaller brands and independent designers with a possible struggle when it comes to a limited timescale in regards to production, should they wish to follow suit.

What has been termed a ‘reboot in touch with reality’, Burberry and Tom Ford are taking a leaf out of Henry Holland’s book and opting for a buy it immediately style, cementing the needs of the consumer and generally placing an emphasis on the customers’ needs and expectations. Christopher Bailey, Burberry’s chief creative and commercial officer, announced this ‘direct to consumer’ shake-up, mixing menswear with womenswear and removing the seasonal titles to launch two September and February collections as the replacement. Henry Holland pulled a similar stunt last year with his return to menswear, where garments were instantly added to Selfridge’s website for guests to shop there and then. Tom Ford also joined in on the fast fashion fun, cancelling all private appointments for NYFW and opting to show both his menswear and womenswear lines collectively in September.

In 2014 alone, the menswear market grew by 4.5% and is predicted to contribute close to $40 billion in the global apparel market by 2019 and with brands like Burberry and Zara creating standalone menswear stores, we could see menswear shifting on its traditional axis in the very, very near future. One thing is certain, the current system is out-dated, stale and in need of major and effective reform. In conclusion, I shall leave you with this menacing line: Where Burberry leads, others will surely follow...

LEWIS ROBERT CAMERON

Am I happy? Yes. I 100% support this move. From

@lewisRcameron

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SEE NOW BUY NOW

“... CATWALK COLLECTIONS COMPLETELY ‘SHOPPABLE’ AND WHOLLY EXCLUSIVE FROM THE WORD ‘GO’, PLACING THE COMMERCIAL POWER BACK IN THE RIGHTFUL HANDS OF THE DESIGNER.”

Photography Eilish McCormick for Morgan the Agency Styling Brian Conway Grooming Ciara Allen for Morgan the Agency Model CaoimhĂn at Morgan the Agency

when everything

feels like

the movies

Hawaiian print shirt,Tommy Hilfiger; Jeans, Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s at Harvey Nichols.

Hawaiian print shirt, Tommy Hilfiger; Trousers, Magee; Mustard socks, stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own.

Print shirt, midnight blue blazer, denim jeans, all Primark; Shoes, Loake.

Polo, Smedley at Harvey Nichols; Waistcoat and chinos, Remus Uomo.

White shirt, Primark; Blue jumper, Paul Smith Design at Harvey Nichols; Blazer, Remus Uomo.

Trench, Tommy Hilfiger; Shirt, tie, trousers and suspenders, all Magee

Necktie, Primark; Shirt, Nicole Fari at Harvey Nichols; Bomber, Primark; Jeans, Remus Uomo.

Silk neck scarf, Magee; Suede jacket, Primark; Denim shirt, Gant at Harvey Nichols.

Blazer, Magee; Polo, Stone Island at Harvey Nichols.

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The Return of the Male Supermodel It’s hard being really-really-ridiculously-good-looking… Ireland is known for producing the crème de la crème. We have the ritual of producing monumental sportsmen and sportswomen down to a fine art, setting the standard high around the globe from football and hockey, to tennis, boxing and athletics. Then there’s our fixation with food and drink: only an Irish man would contain that kind of precocity to take out a 100 year lease on a brewery.

a mere $1.5 million in comparison. Gender equality, eh? It’s worth noting however that female models are much more in demand and there’s something less appealing about a male version of Victoria’s Secret.

WHAT FILTER IS THAT? The fashion market as a whole is in a constant state of flux. Advances in tech mean that everything is churned out at a larger and faster pace, including models! But this isn’t a new phenomenon. What is new is the way fashion houses are casting the faces and bodies of their latest campaigns and get-ups. Fashion houses are using the social media platform to host global model searches, saving time and money and opening up the industry to an entirely new market that would be otherwise unreachable. Marc Jacobs was the first designer to test Instagram and launched his search in 2015 to find the new face of his campaign using the hashtag #CastMeMarc. Social media has been proved as an excellent platform for aspiring models to showcase their look to potential agents, as well as gain a reputable following to rival other competitors.

Producing international models for major fashion houses, on the other hand, is something that we’re not entirely accustomed to. Naomi Campbell once tried to do the whole ‘I have Irish roots’ thing but I’ve yet to meet an Irish person with legs that are as gangly as hers. Where our tiny island lies on this gargantuan planet has a lot to say about how we look and our genes have developed accordingly in response to our disappointing climate: freckles, fair skin, thick hair and often androgynous asymmetrical features. Yet our tiny island is beginning to make waves in an industry that’s so foreign to us. Just this February, Dylan Moran from NotAnother Agency walked for Alexander Wang at New York Fashion Week and Dries Van Noten in Paris. And what about Aidan Walsh? The 18-year-old dance prodigy and model from Co. Clare who appeared on the front cover of Vogue Italia in October 2015. By namesake we can also claim the indisputably beautiful Dudley O’Shaughnessy too (pictured opposite), known for playing Rihanna’s lover in her hit song ‘We Found Love’ in 2011. Born to a Saint Lucian father of Afro-Caribbean-Irish decent and an English mother, O’Shaughnessy struck lucky in the genetic lottery.

If Instagram isn’t appealing, you could just wait for a chance encounter like Italian model Alessio Pozzi – that is if you’re good-looking enough! The provocative Mediterranean was scouted while at a dentist appointment and six weeks later was signed to Elite models – one of the world’s most prestigious model agencies.

GRAB LIFE BY THE BALLS In light of there not being enough male supermodels, those who have achieved success have brought about positive change to the industry. In an environment that is dominated by skinny models, David Gandy’s muscular build was a more normal and healthier image to mimic for younger aspiring models. After winning a modelling competition in his mid-20s Gandy was quickly scouted by Dolce & Gabbana. In 1991, Mark Wahlberg turned the Calvin Klein runway appearance on its head. Halfway through his walk Wahlberg’s poorly-secured jeans came loose revealing his Calvins underneath. What does he do? He struts and grabs his balls. His cheeky(!) stunt continues to been mimicked by both male and female models.

The industry has for many years been a femaledominated ball game. In fairness, it was a woman who was first recognised as a ‘supermodel’: Lisa Fonssagrives, later taken over by Janice Dickinson. The industry leaders today continue to be women whose careers tend to span decades. But there are marginally fewer male supermodels with as much career longevity as their female counterparts. Only last month did the New York Post publish a piece about the world’s first male supermodel, 50-year-old John Pearson, 30 years after his career began! Male supermodels earn a lot less too! According to Fortune Magazine, in 2014 the highest paid female model was Gisele Bündchen who earned $47 million while the highest paid male model Sean O’Pry earned

NIAMH O’DONOGHUE @CulturedCuppa

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“SOCIAL MEDIA HAS PROVEN AS AN EXCELLENT PLATFORM FOR ASPIRING MODELS TO SHOWCASE THEIR LOOK TO POTENTIAL AGENTS”

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CREATIVE DIRECTOR

AOIFE DUNNE

Dublin-based stylist and creative director, Aoife Dunne has proved that the mixture of photography and digital elements can be so much more than photoshopping models or manipulating landscapes. She creates pieces of intriguing art that have a raw and unique aesthetic. The 20-year-old creative is currently studying a BA in Fine Art at the National College of Art and Design while conquering the world of art and fashion. Aoife has accumulated an impressive portfolio of work over the past four years, which is eccentric in colour and attitude. Her website is overloaded with epileptic GIFs and exploding graphics – creating an exceptionally unique display. It makes us reminisce about the 90s and showcases Aoife’s huge interest in digital art.

Apparel K Creative Direction and Illustration Aoife Dunne Styling Aoife Dunne and Zai Nájera Photographer Dafne Lopez Toigo Hair and Make-up Ixchel Models Sabinne and Cris at Wanted Wardrobe Apparel K

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Last year you worked with Enable Ireland on a charity shop challenge. Can you tell us a bit more about that?

What’s your vision as a stylist and creative director? I always take a very artistic and experimental approach to my work. I would say my vision is simply to create interesting work. I like to constantly push my limits creatively and intellectually. What do you consider your biggest influence? My biggest influence for my styling work would come from my Fine Art practice. I find studying to be an artist and working as a creative director and stylist to be intrinsically linked. I’m always drawing inspiration from my studio work and using that as the driving force behind my shoots. When a digital aspect is applied to a photograph, what impact do you think it has? I think that depends on the photograph, but digitally edited imagery for me is very visually compelling. I do a lot of video, illustrative and GIF work and I enjoy having a more artistic and playful approach to my editorial shoots. Being able to create imaginary environments and layer ‘the real’ with digital components is intriguing. I like trying out new techniques to create unique images. How do you feel about the creative industry in Ireland? Would you say it’s quite restricted? Yes and no. I feel the creative industry in Ireland has a long way to come in terms of being progressive and open minded regarding new ideas, styles and imagery. On the other hand, I am constantly surrounded by talented young artists and designers so I think the future for Ireland’s creative industry looks very bright, it’s exciting!

I was delighted when the directors of Enable Ireland contacted me about the charity shop challenge, all of my wardrobe is charity shop and vintage clothing! My love for charity shops started when I was about 15, I could never find anything I liked in any of the high street stores and didn’t have the skills to make my own clothing. I think the reason I’m so drawn to vintage shops is that I’m not interested in mass production of single items. I don’t like walking into a shop and looking for my size, I’d rather walk into a shop and spend hours rummaging through everything on the off chance I might find something amazing. I think it’s nice to know what you’re buying is unique and has a story that comes with it. What are your favourite vintage shops? Vintage and charity shops are always very hit or miss depending on what they have in stock so I don’t really have a favourite. I like them all! What’s your opinion on fast fashion? I’m not interested in buying clothing and treating them as if they’re disposable. I think people should focus on personal style rather than trends. It’s amazing and liberating to have the possibility of constructing your own identity through clothing, enjoy and value what you buy and what you wear. What advice would you give to upcoming stylists in Ireland? Dress for you, make work for you, be persistent and speak your mind. Dress is a form of visual communication and I think that all stylists should take advantage of that. Celebrate individuality! What are your plans for the future? Scary question! After finishing my degree this coming June I’m hoping to get a studio abroad and travel. I love Ireland, but for now it’s not somewhere I see myself living. I’m looking forward to working hard in both the art and fashion scene. I have a few amazing things lined up that I can’t speak of just yet, all I can say is that I’m excited about the future! Follow @EfaDone on Instagram

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LOST IN THE NINETIES BABY Collective Dublin launched in 2014 and is creatively directed by Mark Logan. Under the adage of ‘create, collaborate’ and ‘art will be worn’, Collective Dublin celebrates the diversity of artists in Dublin who had a coherent goal to create ‘wearable art’ that was functional, ethical and beautiful. Shortly after his successful launch, Mark pursued his prolific passion for creativity to the dazzling city of LA which was to become the birthplace of his second collection.

WEARABLE ART In his latest creative journey, Mark has adopted his new surroundings in LA as a means of inspiration. Known most famously for celebrity culture and its tempting lifestyle, the LOST collection represents the undisclosed and banal side of LA life – the one which many choose not to see.

that it can be interpreted differently depending on the individual’s gaze. ‘On the surface LA looks to be the epitome of Utopia: palm trees, blue skies, Hollywood and the city where dreams come to materialise. It’s this feeling and symbolism that I have tried to evoke with this collection. But the collection isn’t inspired by negativity either, it’s entirely open to the wearer’s interpretation. But their interpretation will no doubt be led by their knowledge, understanding or experience of this great city!’ What do I see? I see a 90s-inspired tropical paradise. I see myself sitting on an isolated beach somewhere sizzling. But maybe I’m too much of an optimist? As for the final product, it’s all about the genderless approach.

EXCLUSIVITY

Taking quite a different turn from his first collection, this production “reflects the disconnectedness and isolation that exists is Los Angeles,” according to Mark and is formed in downtown LA in close proximity to the notorious arts district and Skid Row, a grim neighbourhood that is synonymous with homelessness and poverty.

Although he has an impressive resumé behind him – having worked alongside some of the world’s largest brands – his sales rely on organic reach: so is the bang worth his buck? Instead of reaching out to local concession stores in LA to sell stock, Mark is selling exclusively through Dublin’s Generator Hostel. Exclusivity or madness?

“The collection is a mirror of the LOST soul that can be found here. LA is unlike any other city, in that it’s a sprawling metropolis. There is no real epicentre or heart beat,” he continues.

“The reason for selling exclusively through the Generator franchise is that the brand is dope. I wanted to position the point of sale for this collection in the heart of old Dublin town and we could think of no better place than Smithfield Square. Selling through Generator gives the Collective an opportunity to engage with visitors to Dublin. It’s exciting knowing that my brand will be the first taste of Irish streetwear that they get…” says Mark.

The unique selling point behind this brand is the time and effort spent manufacturing. Each garment is constructed piece by piece by Mark and is quite labour intensive but he believes that a larger emphasis needs to be placed on human interaction, as opposed to automation and machinery. Whether this is cost effective is arguable. However, there is full traceability to the ethical standards behind the brand.

TRIPPY

Both of Mark’s collections are displayed in The Generator Hostel located in Smithfield, Dublin and are available for purchase in the main foyer.

NIAMH O’DONOGHUE

The garments are cleverly designed in such a way

@CulturedCuppa

ri g h t ri gh t he re h e re ri g h t ri gh t now n ow Creative Direction Antolovic & Solarevic Photographer Kristijan Antolovic Styling Andrija Solarevic MUA Ellen Chen Model Stephen at NotAnother Agency

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w Jacket, Acne Studios at Brown Thomas; T-shirt, Vintage Adidas at Nine Crows.

Jacket, Dsquared2 at Brown Thomas; T-shirt, Kenzo at Brown Thomas; Hat, A Kind of Guise at Nowhere; Sunglasses, Ray Ban.

Jacket, Acne Studios at Brown Thomas; T-shirt and trousers, Vintage Adidas at Nine Crows; Socks, Ellesse; Slippers, Adidas.

Jacket and t-shirt, Dolce & Gabbana at Brown Thomas; Trousers, A Kind of Guise at Nowhere; Shoes, Eytys at Nowhere.

Sweaters, A Kind of Guise at Nowhere.

Sweater, A Kind of Guise at Nowhere; Necklace, Vintage at Nine Crows.

Sweater, A Kind of Guise at Nowhere; Trouser and necklace,Vintage at Nine Crows; Jacket and shirt, Stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own; Shoes, Dr. Martens.

Jacket, Dsquared2 at Brown Thomas; T-shirt, Kenzo at Brown Thomas; Shorts and hat, A Kind of Guise at Nowhere; Sunglasses, Ray Ban; Socks, Ellesse; Shoes, Adidas x Raf Simons at Nowhere.

Parka, A Kind of Guise at Nowhere; Knitted vest and knitted trousers, Pa Byrne; Polo shirt, Vintage at Nine Crows; Trousers and shoes, Stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own; Socks, Ellesse.

Sweater, A Kind of Guise at Nowhere; Trousers, Vintage at Nine Crows; Underwear, Hanes; Shoes, Vans.

Shirt, Givency at Brown Thomas; Tank top, H&M; Jacket,Vintage Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s; Trousers and necklace, Vintage at Nine Crows; Sunglasses, Ray Ban.

- FASHION -

TAKE IT FROM THE STREETS The progression of contemporary streetwear strongly depends on humanity’s cultural existence – the communities and organisations that identify themselves through the form of dressing which creates a message of unity and self-expression. It’s a promising relationship between modern society and the apparel market which was formed decades ago. Many would say that the urban aesthetic originated back in the 80s when Shawn Stussy – who resigned from his company Stüssy in 1996 – designed a modern sportswear collection, which was endorsed by mainstream hip-hop artists and became an international phenomenon. Others would debate that it was the artists themselves, Run DMC and the Beastie Boys, who inspired a ‘uniform’ amongst the American youth; transitioning streetwear into an expressive statement and exposing it to a mass audience. In fact, both of these occurrences have had a heavy influence on the development of new cultural trends in the 90s and today. Hip-hop has since grown a solid bond with streetwear, creating a powerful force of influence on consumers. The relationship is inevitable and both industries highly benefit from each other’s success. So far this year, Kanye West unveiled Yeezy Season 3 in collaboration with Adidas Original and his latest album ‘The Life of Pablo’ at NYFW. He channelled his vision of music-meets-streetwear into a political statement and a powerful presentation at Madison Square Garden. Robyn Rihanna Fenty made her anticipated catwalk debut as creative director for Puma showcasing an impressive collection of contemporary, grunge-chic sportswear – a collaboration we want to see more of. And last month, Diamond Supply dropped their new collection with artist Travis Scott incorporating energetic images and logos into a range of basic essentials. ASAP Rocky, Tyler, The Creator and Kid Cudi are also leading the pack in today’s streetwear trends. They are

all rebelling against the typical ‘modern day rapper’ image of hoodies and Jordans. They wear clothing that defines them as an artist and coincides with the unique aesthetic of their music. They shape the future! The demand for product is now at an all-time high too. Corporate sportswear brands such as Nike and Reebok have almost become dependent on celebrity association and endorsement. Why? It assists them in appealing to a new audience and maintains their position in the competitive market. It helps them reach the new ‘it’ consumer: Generation Z. Brands like Supreme, BAPE, Tommy Hilfiger, Levi’s, Timberland, and StÜssy all stand the test of time and are still known as the iconic originators. Streetwear holds onto its traditional aesthetic and market credibility while fashion designers continue to challenge its future on the catwalks. London-based designers Liam Hodges, Astrid Andersen and Maharishi are all channelling their own perception of contemporary sportswear into strong and consistent collections each season. Hood By Air director, Shane Oliver, has challenged gender by injecting an element of beauty into his menswear while luxury fashion houses bravely wet their feet. We’ve even seen the creation of home-grown Irish street brands such as BLOQ and Sick Studs. Technology continues to change our everyday life but there are still a lot of voices screaming ‘Long Live Print’ and ‘Bring back the 90s’; they are fighting for a revolution inspired by nostalgia. Vintage stores are extremely popular and fashion is becoming imperfect again and we love it! Which brings me to ask: will the relationship between streetwear and hip-hop culture survive? If so, what’s in line and who will stay on top? How long can it hold onto its traditional aspects? Only time will tell!

ADAM GAFFEY @AdamGaffey

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ENTERTAIN US THE GRUNGE EFFECT As the song says ‘I’m a 90s bitch!’ I was fortunate to be a teenager in the era that invented grunge. Over the past few seasons, the 90s have been sneaking their way into the forefront of fashion trends. This season it seems to have reached its peak with the runways being awash with this imperfect look. What is this sudden resurgence of plaid shirts, denim and flatform shoes – yes, even for the boys! – all about? The original grunge was spawned from a need to escape the brashness of the 80s. It was time to forget the shoulder pads, big hair and busty models and retreat to pared back fashion. This time the need for grunge is no different. It comes from the need of Millennials to not be too ostentatious or glitzy. The uniform of the tech generation has been t-shirts, jeans and trainers. This is mostly because the biggest breakthroughs to come out of the tech industry have been created in some 20-year-old’s bedroom. Facebook, after all, was set up in a dorm room. So, these brash, technologicallyminded entrepreneurs have no desire to restrict their creativity by suiting up. Microsoft for example has had a casual dress code for years. The grunge aesthetic fits comfortably into our lifestyle. Athleisure wear has been every celebrity’s go-to travel look for the past few years. Thanks to street style, the trainer has reached its ultimate peak in style status. It’s the go-to shoe of the fashion pack with fashion editors leading the way even as part of their workwear. The model off-duty look is aspirational. Being too over done is done! Designers have embraced this love for the 90s. From Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent to Belgian designer Dries van Noten, they have all offered their take on the era’s fashion. With this nostalgia hanging in the air, Calvin Klein brought us back to his original ad campaign with the models of the time Kate Moss and Mark Wahlberg. This time round the waif like beauty of Kendall Jenner joined by the impressively ripped Justin Bieber had our hearts missing a few beats. But what’s missing from the new century’s take on grunge? Iconic inspiration. Grunge was born in the garages of Seattle where bands like Nirvana took centre stage. Boys and girls

alike wanted to emulate the androgynous style of the frontman. It was his no-shit attitude of long greasy hair matched with worn jeans, flannel shirts and granddad cardigans that caught the imagination of his generation. Jared Leto aka Jordan Catalano of My So-Called Life brought the Cobain look to the mainstream. With his shearling bombers and choker necklaces the high school style was set. Being the wife of the most infamous frontman gave Courtney Love certain kudos. She was the queen of grunge presenting a style that was easily and cheaply replicated. Her look of mixing cutesy baby doll dresses with ripped tights came straight from the thrift store chic mantra. Kate Moss single-handedly changed the face of the modelling world when she came on the scene in the 90s. Her waif like appearance inspired the heroin chic style of the decade. From the moment she stepped on the runway Kate became a style icon. In the 90s, it was all about the slip dress that fell seamlessly on her slight frame. Who could forget her ultimate accessory besides a cigarette, Johnny Depp? Depp has always oozed cool. The 90s were no different when he rocked long greasy hair, leather, combat boots and torn up jeans. As a teenager of the 90s, I fully embrace the nostalgic ode to the decade. It was a simpler time where the streets were our playground as opposed to the computer or iPhone screen. There was something hedonistic, almost 60s like, about the decade. It was before the boom, before the ruin of the Celtic Tiger. Nobody cared what label you wore, what fake tan you were using. There was none of the souped up elitism that came with the Tiger years. It may be less than 20 years ago but the world certainly feels a very different place. Maybe this is the reason why designers have fallen in love with the 90s all over again. It was our last safe haven from the terror of the world. Who wouldn’t want to go back to that?

PAULA BURNS @stylewhisperer

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Marc Jacobs SS16

oh well whatever nevermind

- GROOMING -

A THING FOR TRADITION

- GROOMING -

Sam’s Barbers is a family-run business which was established in 1901 and is now overseen by Sam and James Donnelly. The chain has five stores located throughout Dublin, with the most recent branch situated on Lower Ormond Quay – right in the heart of the city! They take a classic, old-school approach to grooming while applying a cool, contemporary aesthetic – a style that is definitely on trend within the industry at the minute. The new shop is kitted out with red leather Belmont barber chairs, chilling beer fridges and vintage cinema seating. You can have a beer (or coffee) on arrival, get a hot-towel shave and a fresh cut, of course! Can you describe the atmosphere in Sam’s Barbers? We’ve created an oasis on the busy streets of Dublin city where men can escape and slip into a world of time-valued traditions. Talk of sport, news and weekend shenanigans is the order of the day. Relax with a beer or coffee knowing you’re in safe in the hands of a master barber. When you were kids, what do you remember about going to the barber shop? The aromatic smell of tonics and cigarettes immediately transports us back to the barber shop when we were children. In those days, people were allowed to smoke in the barbers! Similar to all my friends, I had the ‘gazzer’ haircut – a short back and sides brushed flat on top with a straight blunt fringe and a healthy dollop of greasy wax! When it comes to classic haircuts, what style would you consider the most popular today? It has to be the classic side part, it’s a style that will never disappear and has been around forever. It’s such a versatile haircut and really does suit all men regardless of their personal style. Ryan Gosling wears this cut very well.

very hard on sourcing the highest quality grooming products available, it’s something that we pride ourselves on. We stock the largest range of men’s grooming products in Ireland. This all began with our grandfather who used to make his own hair pomades in the basement of the barbershop. This, in turn, inspired us to create and formulate our very own range of men’s grooming products called Pomp & Co. This was a new venture for us and we really didn’t know what we were getting ourselves into! We never could have expected that one day we’d be exporting our product worldwide to over 13 countries. What’s your opinion of the educational system for barbers in Ireland? The educational system for barbers in Ireland is continuing to advance and develop. However, in other countries, a qualified barber is issued with a license from recognised barber’s guild. In Ireland the industry is evolving with master barbers setting high standards all the time. The introduction of the Barbers Journal is a great industry resource that promotes quality barbering. However, I believe the traditional barbering apprenticeship with an experienced and passionate barber still provides the best foundation for anyone interested in the trade. What advice can you offer for styling hair at home? Using a hairdryer and brush is the best way to style hair but let’s be honest most men don’t have the patience or the time for this, so the next best thing is to towel dry the hair after a shower. Only ever apply a small amount of hair product and if in doubt as to which type of product to use, try a ‘dry’ matte effect product, this usually works best on most hair types. A great example is the Pomp & Co. Hair Cream which provides a natural matte affect that looks great! How do you think the grooming industry will change in the future?

What are your personal favourites from the range of products available at Sam’s?

Technology and social media are going to play a bigger role in the industry and it’s already beginning to show. We’ve implemented online booking and, as it currently stands, 93% of our customer’s book online. Online payment is going to be another one to watch out for, most of our services are paid for on card. So letting guys pay for their haircut in advance when booking online seems like the next logical step. This is something we’re already working on; it’s all about convenience and making visiting the barber hassle free, enjoyable and relaxing. Social media, predominantly Instagram and Facebook, are the way forward for the industry. You’d be crazy to ignore them! If you’re not active it’s going be hard to stay connected with current and prospective clients to let them know what you have to offer and why they should visit you over anyone else!

For the last number of years we have all worked

Follow @samsbarbersireland on Instagram

Why do you think traditional grooming has become so popular? Men’s grooming and barbering has always been around and it’s true to say that over the last number of years, it’s getting the recognition and attention it deserves. I think Irish men, and indeed men in general, are taking more interest in their personal style and this is a great thing. The impact of social and traditional media has a huge role in this and continues to influence new trends and styles. As the saying goes: if you look good, you feel good!

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CEO OF DEPOP

RUNAR REISTRUP Last November at Web Summit, I got the opportunity to sit down with Runar Reistrup, CEO of marketplace app, Depop. The relatively new app is growing quickly to fill a void in the fashion ecommerce market. It’s a combination of an ecommerce market like eBay mixed with the interactions of a social media platform which when put together makes something quite unique. As the user numbers grow so does the variety of products for sale. It just depends what you’re looking for. However it seems like a natural fit for the countless international fashion bloggers selling their once-worn clothes. I wanted to know if this was the primary audience from the beginning. “We knew that we were going to try and appeal to the fashion community, but we weren’t thinking in terms of influencers we were thinking in terms of tastemakers. As we saw Depop grow, we saw these super influencers and fashion bloggers were definitely one of them. Once we had a few of them, they all read each other’s blogs and more came on board. I think they probably were looking for something like this for a long time.” One early adopter of the app was Chiara Ferragni of The Blonde Salad, who is now a partner in the company. “That helped us and gave us a bit of an inside track on understanding this world because we didn’t understand it. We just built this product and thought maybe fashion people will like it.” Fashion bloggers, at least the popular ones, get a lot of products and clothes for free from different brands. Some that they may not want or need. Either way, selling on these items to their readers or followers is a good way to make a little extra income. “We always hear, I have such a big Instagram following and so many people following my blog, but there’s no place where I can easily sell my stuff. And I have so much to sell. Fashion bloggers are starting to do collaborations now so they are becoming the brands of the future. They are taking the space that

was previously fully occupied by fashion magazines.” We move on to talk about the ‘human’ element of the Depop app which is setting it apart. The explore sections and the featured users are hand picked by a team of curators. “We have fashion people employed on a daily basis to pick out the right things to feature. There is almost no digital behind it. I think that paid off well. I haven’t seen a fashion magazine yet that has been curated by a machine so I don’t think you’ll see something like Depop being curated by a machine any time soon. A machine can tell you what you like, but a human can tell you what you didn’t know you would like.” Considering we are having this conversation at Web Summit the conversation moves to Mike Krieger, co-founder of Instagram and current CTO and his presentation from the previous day. He discussed the inner workings of the Instagram explore function, based on vast quantities of data and complex algorithms. Too much information to sort through for a human. “If you are looking to see 100 items that are all very similar in the same category, then we do have machines helping us. But at a very top level there is human work involved and that is paying off. We are trying to inspire and a marketplace doesn’t become inspirational by itself. You need the right people on board posting their stuff like the bloggers and the right people on our side highlighting and shining a light on the best stuff.” One word that appears frequently in our conversation is curating. The word seems to reinforce the DIY message the app is promoting. “We try to serve fresh stuff from the community and there’s enough to pick from. Because we are curating, people want to make their listings quite nice. The same goes for the people that we promote.” “We are not the judge of good and bad taste. We are trying to be the explorer and see where someone put a real effort into things because we appeal to thousands

- FEATURE -

of different communities and they don’t all have the same taste. We have people from the punk rock community on one end and people from the kawaii community on the other end, and they don’t meet. In the community the kawaii buyers follow the kawaii sellers, but we would happily put a kawaii item and a punk rock item right next to each other in the explore section because we are about highlighting the people who are really making an effort.” In my own experience of using Depop, I encountered many female fashion bloggers selling their wares. In Ireland in general, male fashion bloggers are pretty rare so I wanted to know if he was seeing something that I couldn’t. “Men shop a lot. They just don’t talk about it as much. Men have role models in the same way. I find that the male role models on Depop are not fashion bloggers as such, but they could be music artists or something. Also menswear shops in London came on board early on.” One of the noticeable differences between Depop and its playground competitors, such as Amazon and eBay, is that it’s only available on mobile. “If you look at stats there is a move away from desktop to the phone. Funnily enough commerce doesn’t move as quickly to phones as browsing does. So people spend more time on their phone but they spend more money on their desktop. The reason it hasn’t shifted yet, I believe, is that the people who were good at doing this on the web like eBay and Amazon are starting to find that mobile is very different. It’s a very different beast. It’s not just a smaller screen, it’s a whole different emotional connection you have with a phone and they have very different expectations.” “Mobile commerce will not look anything at all like commerce on a desktop. And before we figured out what mobile commerce is going to be and before the big players figure it out, mobile commerce is not going to move that much. So is that a benefit for us? Definitely. Because we started as mobile, we have never considered how to do this on web. We don’t even know how to do web commerce and that ignorance is a bit of bliss.” “We built it without looking at how web commerce works – we looked at the real world. How a market like Spitalfields in London works, how is trade really happening? It’s a lot of communication and a build up of trust. On mobile, everything becomes immediate. You don’t write an email to somebody, you chat. It takes away the faceless commerce experience.” So what lies in the future for this rapidly expanding app? With an expansion into the US underway, what are the priorities for the company? “Definitely more countries and also making Depop easier. It’s still a young company and some of the things we are doing, we know we can do better. We want to work on making it even easier to find the people you want to follow. That’s the main challenge. I think improving that will make it easier to be a new Depop user. The ones that have been doing it for a while are fine but I think landing in a new place, you start thinking ok where are my crew?”

MICHELLE WALSH @MichelleA_Walsh

“IT’S NOT JUST A SMALLER SCREEN, IT’S A WHOLE DIFFERENT EMOTIONAL CONNECTION YOU HAVE WITH A PHONE AND THEY HAVE VERY DIFFERENT EXPECTATIONS.”

You’re no good to me, I don’t need nobody

Photography Táine King Model Lorcan at NotAnother Agency Styling Adam Gaffey Grooming Tee Elliott Assistant Micaela Rahi

Beige bomber jacket and white shorts, River Island; T-Shirt, COS.

Wax trench coat, H&M Studio Collection.

Woven shirt, H&M Studio Collection; Chain, River Island; Jumper, Dolce & Gabanna at Brown Thomas.

Jumper, Neil Barrett and shirt, Kenzo at Brown Thomas; Trousers, River Island.

Short sleeve trench coat, Grandad collared shirt, both COS; Shorts River Island.

Cravat, River Island; Jacket and trousers, COS.

Wax trench coat, H&M Studio Collection; Trousers, COS; Shoes, Grenson at BT2.

NEW FACE

CHARLIE Agency Not Another Agency Photographer Kristijan Antolovic

- FASHION -

Wrist and Pocket Watch €275 Alessi at Brown Thomas; Black Hi Top Sneakers €115 Dune; Grey Cotton Striped Sweater €86 French Connection; Canvas Backpack with Black Leather Trim €99 COS; Black Zipped Knee Shorts €12 Primark.

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NOWHERE ELSE

Dublin’s Nowhere menswear store have opened their second shop at 65 Aungier Street. Launched in December, the new store – which neighbours the original space at number 64 – focuses primarily on footwear. Guests on the night chatted amongst themselves while enjoying a chilled beverage. Architectural designers, abgc, have spectacularly made use of bright white materials which fill the store with energy and space. It’s truly a magnificent addition to the chain. Nowhere stocks brands exclusively in Ireland, including KTZ, Matthew Miller, Craig Green and A Kind of Guise. Their footwear brands include Adidas x Raf Simons, EYTYS, Common Projects, Nike and Marni. Photographer Stephen O’Neill

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WISHLIST

SPRING ‘16

7 4

5 8

1. Beige Jacket €59.99 H&M Studio 2. Canvas Star Backpack €850 Saint Laurent at Brown Thomas 3. Denim Jeans €100 Next 4. Camouflage Shirt €75 River Island 5. Waxed Baseball Jacket €75 Mantaray at Debenhams 6. Polo T-shirt €80 Lacoste at Arnotts 7. White Unisex Sneaker €99 COS 8. Striped Cap €11.99 New Look