SKP MAGAZINE / ISSUE#9 / FASHION ISSUE

ISSUE # 9 ֻ⊒づ

$ 8 7 8 0 1 ㆀₗ़

R A L U C A T S N C D E O N SP ASHNIEW TRE FSON'S ৡ

A E S THE

❵ ㆈ㐡 ᦃ ᙒ 㦁㐀㌷

䚃 ₗ Ч

㊬䛂▦℻SKP位❐ㄦ 9㦗9㡴摜孔㆏ヤ +86 10 5738 2610

ㆉ⦌恾87⚆▦℻SKP₏⻑M1021

WWW. BVLGARI.COM

COACH 2016 ㆀ ᔕ⤧ 㐔᝔ ₉ ᚑ㐩㡴ਙ ૅᡵ᝔ᕆ㍹⁑ᘦ㐒㐀㌷〰⥑ $0"$)䔱 㦕Է䈁䙥ℱ456"35 7&7&34ਵ㢙㜃 ጇ ㈆㦁ㆀᔕ⤧㐔᝔₉ᚑ㐩㡴ਙ 䉤 ⁸᜘癈৯䊃኉ડᦒ⊖֥㍡℅㝩䒃䚔⠥֨ ᔱ‸ջট䅢ᠦ㞓⤨֥Ղ䔐ૅ㐒ᙨӖb $0"$) ⢓㈆㦁ㆀᔕ⤧㐔㡴ਙ㍡℅ ਲ᜹₆㆖䊇Ѣㆃ䍦ᔘᤤѢㆃᕔᚑđѩ๙ ᡸኔ㤶֥䁈䍉ᙨ〧์㍡℅㜹ૅ䑂㤇ᔵ ห۱㦙đ䉇⒅䕙҂‫⤧ك‬㦙㉠ૅ䌄ᦒ⊖ᙨ ㅴđ䆇⁸᜘癈৯䌄۱㦙֥ᘦ㐒䎀㤇ૅ㐒 ≨ᑷđ䕧㞓㡃㉈㕑䍗đⅲૅ㐒䑶䕣䖘䈄 ᙨᝲ䌄⤙䍑ᔱ‸≦㍰ㅂ⠃㉓ᤦđ㕀㒘䅢 ᕉ㈆㦁֥ૅᡵ❱bӁ〰Ќ☡ਔ】ᝰ䌄䄣 રᅣ䕓䚃䌶㐑䒇㐄֥䘥㖃đձ⦁〧ᙳ㍡ ℅đ䤇㐨㐷ញ֥䒇䤰Ġ֮‫ט‬䑒㤅〰⥑֥ ≦䑈ញ䆈a㍐ᦃ䕓᜹₃ጦ㚄ૅ㐒㡷∙đ ぢ㥧ૅ㐒ᙨㅴ㦁‫ק‬䈄b

{ S K P } ŕ¤œă?¸äŒˆ

Ń‰â‚€â„ƒäŒˆ These days, fashion experts and historians claim that we

֒≂ּă?€ăŒˇä˜“℗ᤤă?€ăŒˇă?†ä ˆâ„—ᔹă?¸ÓŤ ă ‰ŕŤŒä†„â‰¨Ó‘ä?’áŒŚăš„ÖĽoä‘‚

have gone beyond the traditional idea of a " presentation " to

ă?“páœ¨â˘— ≉ ㉰ФӍă?Šoӑㄲ áœšáĄ‚ŕ¸¸ ä„”pÖĽâˆ–á•‰bä’ƒ 䕼㌠ּă?€ä˜Ą

what they now term a " pre-sensation ", the idea of staging a

ä€”ÓŻă¤‡á˜Śă?’ă?´ä•„â˜•áŚ–â‰´á¤¤á™?ă?Śäˆ—ă”łÓ‘áŒ‡ŕ¨”áš‘ä˜ĄĐ§ă?ŚÖĽä•§ä……㌙b

fashion show to such an extent that the context is almost more

ăˆ˘â€Ť ء‏2016-17ㆀ ᔕă?€ä˜Ąâ‚—ăˆ•ă”•áĽ¤ŰłáŒ‡ŕ¨”ă¤—Ů‘ÖĽĎƒŕ§¨ ă??áŚƒÖĽŕŤŤ

important than the clothes themselves. However, the Fall-Winter

ŕ¨˜ä?Śä‰¤Ä?฿‍㉗؍‏a䔌≆llÄŽaâ€ŤŮžâ€Źáœ˜ÖĽâ”łă?†âˆłâ…•aáˆĽăˆ ä†‡â‚ƒâŽ?䌄á?”

2016/2017 season seems to mark a case for the opposite: rich

â€Ť×§â€Źáš‘ä˜Ąă¤—ć ‰ŕŤ…ÖĽáŚƒŕ§ĄÓŽä…Š ŕ¤¨áŒ‡ă¤‡äŽ â¤™ä?‘aâž€ŕŚ§á¤¤Â â”•ÖĽă?Ľä‘‚ă•š

fabrics (velvets, brocades‌), lavish historical references, long

ăŒśb䕧䕙䔼䕧ă?˘äŽ ă•Śä‘‚ă?“⥡㉖ᤤ䑂ă?“á˜Śă?’ä”Ľâ„ľä —Ö¤â‰Śâ ƒă€śáĽ…b

dresses and ready-to-wear looks so impressive that they could

К≤ SKP Ч�₇�ध№২䔕 ≨᥸䅢‍ى‏՜㌒‍ي‏䀉㎒ញἢ 䅢۹䉌

be couture pieces were all seen on catwalks in New York, Milan

ä ¸ă??áŚƒÖĽăˆ†ăŚ ŕĽ˘â„ľăŽ…Őśŕ¤ˇâĄ† ä†‡äšƒäˆ¨ăˆ¸ă‰°ăŽ‡ÖĽá˜Śă?’ä‘‚ă?“äšƒä˜śä?’

and Paris. It’s all about a delicate balance between what is

ּ᥾℉〰⼑b䒃䅓ă?˘â‰‚⢓ă?§ă†€ SKP ăŒłáˆ˘ăŽ—ä•ąâ˘“á’ƒă…ˇÖĽä…˘ă†‘â ąá”˜

presented and how it is presented. SKP itself is a key example

ăˆ¸ăŚƒÖĽă„—ä™Šb

of this, as the end of the major renovation approaches and

äˆ—ŐŽ Ч㠼 SKP ä?´ ä• Őťâ¤‰ä…˘ŕŚŤÖ’ă„—ăŽ… ≹ ăĽšăŒ´ă?– 䉅՜㎉ Melvin

a new, elegant, luxurious space is revealed in which the best

Sokolsky ԡ䚒䊇1960⢓սּ≌ґă?€ä˜Ąä‰…㤴 ุ 䄔‍ي‏㌠ἢּ ┕

international brands are showcased to their best advantage.

ŕ§Ąä™…âŠ“á’ƒ ă„—ă?”âĄˇáŚƒŐ˛ä•˛ÖĽâ “ăˆ¸âˆ™â‰‰ăŚ•Ń™ä„°ŐśŕŞľă¤†bă ‰ŕŤŒáŚ˜Ň•áĄ„

An exciting run-up to SKP’s 10th anniversary later this fall.

ਔ CĂŠline ּ ┕㌠䙼҆ ă…–á”¸áœŚă€°âĽ‘ă‰Śá¤Ľă?Š Phoebe Philo ӌ≳

This issue therefore looks at the spectacular: Melvin Sokolsky’s

ä‰Śä ¸ÖĽáš‘ä˜ĄŐľäŽ™áĄľâ„‰áŚˆá–™ä‘‚á?˛ŕ¤…bă ‰ŕŤŒÖĽă?€ä˜ĄŐśă€™ä†‡ăŚ ă˘•â€ŤŘˇâ€ŹäŠƒ

amazing fashion images from the 1960s, tours of the renovated

â ¸áœ˜Ôˇäˆ ÖĽă?´âˆ€ă?Šâ¤‰ÓŻă¤‡Ö’â‚—ŕ¨ľă˘“Ó–ŕŠ€ ăˆ°ă•ŠŕŤŒâ„‡â˜•ăˆ¸ăŚƒá”˜äŠƒă€ś

Ritz hotel in Paris and to the other-worldly adventure that

ä†?â‰“ăˆ¸băˆ°ä…˘â…ĄăŚ ä˜Ąă?Šă‰ˆÓˆă?šâ ‘ŐťŕŚ&#x;ₑᙑ≼㥹b

SKP ä?´ä• Ń‰â‚€ăœ‚á•”

is Burning Man Festival in Nevada. We also visit the CÊline headquarters in Paris and see how the brand has created a universe that provides a global context for Phoebe Philo’s quietly spectacular clothes. Our fashion pages present the leading trends of the season in a fresh and creative way, making them approachable as well as desirable. A new garment brings a little of the spectacle into everyday life‌

SKP MAGAZINE TEAM

30

{ S K P } ⡆ᥢ㜂ᕔ

M a r i e D u h a r t 䊇 ҕ℘㡶 खज़ӱ㐀ᖙ㤇ਔґ䘢 㐕∲ ֥癈 ৯b 㕰 䎁 䌄 ‫ פ‬₉ ґ 䘢 ն ㎉ S t é p h a n e M a r a i s ᤤ 㐀 ㌷ ㍖ 䉅 ն

Чづ䍴䕁⡆ᥢ㈸㠸ห㥧

㎉ Paolo Roversi ᠃㐗づℵ ֤֞≖ㅴᖙ․ᅤᦃ֥⁣‸b㕰∳䉰੪ 㦕ᤤញ䚒≨䄔ট‫پ‬᜘䙗ₓ֥㈸㍹bMarie หљ㡱ιㄲ‫⤧ט‬㦙ห䕓 ᤤ䙗㈢ૅ᜹ 䔐㉦㕰㥢㐷 Amit Izraeli ᤤ⠢ห Lena Hardt 㝩Ч़ᤖ 㕦յ䎙֥㐀䘡ն〙䕙і㤇֥䅢Ϯb ጇ㍹䊇䆇㌀ਙ֥ Amit Israeli 䎁14㕑⡘⢓᠑㉰㐸㕹㤗⁣ 䉰Վᖙ 㤇ਔ㍖䉅֥ύ⠃b⡐ㄗ‫ंק‬䊇 ┕֥㕨㑃֞㕦ጡ䔥ֹ⁸᜘㎔䈁 ֥Ⅹ䘅ᤤᙨ≱֥ゑᖙ 䙥⡹ิប㐴∀ᔵหaᙨᝲㅰ㦁֥㍖䉅䚒 〰b㕨䑕≶㢇֥㐀㌷ն〙़֨䊇 Dapper Danau㐕∲Бvゃ㢇 ֥ M ֩䍴䕁⡷b䎁Ч़┢ Amit 㝩֒ₗնক㦓֥㐀䘡Ӗੀ☡㢇䅢 䙸ѓ䕁㦙ն〙b

ґ䘢㎉ MARIE

DUHART

㍖䉅㎉ AMIT

㍦ℷ℆䒀₃∅㑁ᖗ䔧֥ Rob Sharp 䆇⚆ᕙ㝩ऌׄb㕨䎁㝩㑶ᙘ

ISRAELI

䈱ᡵ䔡⠖նБបᝠ֥㙷㐀 䅓䊇㊃㊆क़㔂ն䁈ᤤ⚆ᕙጦૂ䁈䍉 ք㉁㦁㞖䁈∅㑁b䚒㝩䆈㑨㞕ᦈ䘓℗ 㕨㝩 SKP 䍴䕁䆇⤶䕳۲㐸 ᔱ㦁ष⡆֥䆈㑨ֹѓⅩ䘅Ѱ㠸ᡆ㝩ี ᙑ㡅䆈㑨Ѱ㠸ᡆ֥䚃㦁 Ӗੀᤤ䙨㤵b ੪㦕℗a㍖䉅㎉ Gabriel de la Chapelle ㈵ι⥉㍖⡘㥖䎁੪㦕ֹ 如奙֥㈸㠸㥑㤴b㕨֥䚒〰䍅҂䔶䊇㒕ℵ֥ѽ䘴đふ㎔ㅴ֥ૅ䁈 ᡄׄ䆙㝩䉅㤴〶เਔ⠦৯㥔ᡶbGabriel ㍖䊇⁓㈸∙㤇ሢ֥oDust Portraitsp䅢㡴ਙ☕㈸ฑ㝩ᡄ䔶֥䉅㤴₇㝩䚃№⅘䔕b ㍦ℷሱ〙䕉䚒㈸aDJaᒀ䉅֝䄂ᤤ䆈㑨Ҧ䑂㈸‫؟‬䔧 ֥ Jaïs Elalouf ㌤ሥⅲ䆈㑨a䈙ুᤤ䉅㤴㉓ᤦ㝩䅢b䙗1998⢓

℆䒀 ROB

SHARP

㍖䉅㎉ GABRIEL

DE LA CHAPELLE

ょđ㕨㙷㐀䅓≨䈹ᡅ┠ Ping Pong ពᡁព㔇 㝩䈱ᡵ㢓ᙧᒀ䙖

֥䚒〰b䎁Чづ SKP 䍴䕁┢ 㕨ⅲ䌄ᔶ䒀ᙑ㤰۱㈸䐑≨㊈ᕃҕ℘ ֥o⁓㈸∙p䔥䆈㑨␰ᦕุ䄔b N i n a S t e r g h i o u 㐢 ӈ 䘉 ⤙ 䍑 ֥ 䎙 㦒 ㎉ b㕰 䐑 ք ㉁ E L L E ᤤ Marie Claire ֩䍴䕁֥㐀㌷щ₀ ᥢট᜗䐃䕩‫؟‬㐀㌷ᠧ㐗ն〙䆇₃ ➀ধa ┕㐀䘡䀔֥䎙㦒㍡℅ ѩㅑ䌄㐀㌷Ӂ䅖䕙‫؟‬㞆㍖䉅ն㎉Ќ ትᤦ䚒b㕰䎁䌄 Karen Collins ᤦ䚒㝩Чづ䍴䕁⥉㍖㐀䘡ն〙sՂ ডt֥づℵ⁔֤ਔ⁸ն֥ু㆙ 䉩ふ䕢ㅴ⡘㥖䉷㆙֥⦁㐩bNina ⡐ ㄗ䌄㝹⁆ᙹᤤ㕨ૌ㕦䄩֥㥈᠈䅢ょ䘆䎁҃ਗ਼क़ਟㆉb ℆䒀 JAÏS

ELALOUF

䎙㦒㎉ NINA

STERGHIOU

32

㚓〙ট䍃 ϱ㈃㕦䉷 ḡ '"#3*$& -"30$)&

䈙ুӌ⥑ Ninja Tune 㥔৯bJaïs 䆇䙗֥֝ᒀ䉅ᤤ㞕㤈䉅㤴㝩⁢ ጖ ձ⦁‫گ‬ᠢ㉠ᤤᙨᝲᤤᒀ䙖䈙ু∙䙩 㜃ጇ䅢㡴ਙ็䑆֣֡䈁㐅

{SKP}MASTHEAD

# 9 ֻ⊒づ AUTUMN ㆀₗ़ 2016

www.skp-m a ga zin e.c o m К≤S K P S K P B E I J I N G ᦃ৳㦁ᡑϤ⁘čК≤Ď䉷㤕ព㔇 H U A L I A N S H I N KO N G D E PA R T M E N T S T O R E ( B E I J I N G ) C O ., LT D . 䉱щ100025 К≤㐱Ӕ䄥ㆉⅩᡵਫ਼ 87 ᤖ N O . 87 , J I A N G U O R OA D , C H AOYA N G D I S T R I C T , B E I J I N G 100025 , C H I N A ᒀᦉ T E L : (+86 ) 10 6530 5888 WWW.SKP-BEIJING.COM 䈹䅖㐀ℵ O P E N I N G H O U R S : 10:00-22:00

䖘ᡅ S U P E R V I S O R ᤷ☧ⅴ㎄ញ䅖ᤤ㦄㡕ᦈ㝴䍀‸ 䖘ပ S P O N S O R ᤷ☧ⅴ㎄ゐ䅖ᡅ┠㥠‸ ጇϱֆ㞆 P U B L I S H I N G H O U S E u㤇ս≨ℂ㦄㡕v䍴䕁㍠ ᡵ⡷㚄䅢़ᤖ N AT I O N A L S TA N DA R D C O D E : C N 23-1056/ F ᡵ℉ѓ䘳़ᤖ I N T E R N AT I O N A L S TA N DA R D I S S N : I S S N 1001-828 X ㍠ሥ P U B L I S H E R 䊇฿䐆 䔱㦕䖘щ O P E R AT I O N C H I E F E D I T O R 䊇≗㔘 䕱䕁恄 ᡒᝡ≨䈹䀤⎐䔕 A DV E R T I S I N G C E R T I F I C AT E : 2301030000063

ᜨ⢗㍡℅ C R E AT E D BY MIXT(E) ÉDITIONS 22, rue Saint-Augustin 75002 Paris France + 33 (0) 1 83 95 42 08 Էပ㈸ F O U N D E R S Tiziana Humler-Ravera, Christian Ravera, Guy Guglieri 䍴䕁䙥≨┠ G E N E R A L

M A N AG E R A N D M A R K E T E D I T O R Tiziana

Է䈁䙥ℱ C R E AT I V E

DIRECTORS

䑆⚃ᠨ㠁 㤱⡐䙥ℱ S T R AT E GY 䖘щ E D I T O R

Humler-Ravera

Christian Ravera, Guy Guglieri

C O N S U LTA N T / P R O J E C T D I R E C T O R

IN CHIEF

Lili Chen

Nathalie Fraser

㐀䘡䙥ℱ FA S H I O N D I R E C T O R Spela L enarcic 㐀䘡䎙㦒㚄ጀ FA S H I O N C O O R D I N AT O R S Alexandra Bednarek, Tina Dovjak ૅ㑨щ₀ G R A P H I C

ૅ㑨䙥ℱ A R T D I R E C T O R Fred Auniac Bérengère Foulquier- Gazagnes, Salomé Socroun

DESIGNERS

⥉㍖㚄ጀ≨┠ P R O D U C T I O N M A N AG E R Vanessa Perez 䁂∀䔵֝ C A S T I N G D I R E C T O R Gwen Frechet @Amadeus Castings ㍖䉅 P H O T O G R A P H E R S Matthew Brookes, Gabriel de la Chapelle, Karen Collins, Amit Israeli, Eric Maillet, Brigitte Niedermair, Melvin Sokolsky ℆䒀 J O U R N A L I S T S Marie-Noëlle Demay, Jaïs Elalouf, Colette Marc, Jessica Michault, Patrick Remy, Rob Sharp, Elisabeta Tudor, Alex Zafiris, Romy Zeng 㞕σ䘖㥧/‫ي‬䈐㥐ᕕ C O P Y

EDITORS

㤱⡐䙥ℱ ᅥ㡀≨┠ P R O J E C T

/

T R A N S L AT I O N

DIRECTOR

/

Ling Monge, Wenfei Xu

F I N A N C E M A N AG E R

Patrick Hanzo

䕙ᡵㆉᡒᝡ䙥ս┠ C H I N A A DV E R T I S I N G R E P R E S E N TAT I V E 晡㌘ᡒᝡጦૂč㌶ᢂĎ䉷㤕ព㔇 C E S A N A M E D I A I N T L . A D . (S H A N G H A I ) C O ., LT D . 䙥ᅢ P R E S I D E N T ᘦ㔅ট Fausto Tatarella 䙥≨┠ G E N E R A L M A N AG E R ┡ ≤৯ Maggie Li К≤ B E I J I N G : (+86 )10 6588 0051 ㌶ᢂ S H A N G H A I : (+86 ) 21 3477 2472 ᡒᝡ䙥ℱ A D D I R E C T O R Arthur Sun ᝔₉ᡒᝡ≨┠ S E N I O R A D M A N AG E R S Eva Huang, Jason Yan ᡒᝡ㚄ጀ A D C O O R D I N AT O R S Emily Ji, Nancy Guo ᙑ㌀䕉ϱ R E P R O G R A P H I C S Wands, Paris ӵ䈰 P R I N T I N G C O M PA N Y К≤০‫پ‬䁸᝔ሥበ䈰㑹䉷㤕ព㔇

34

{SKP}CONTENTS

䄣㜘㉗ն䅩 CÉLINEđ㤱╗aTIFFANY KEYS 㡴ਙ䍁㦓ᦁဓ䍔 ቶ‫ז‬䘰aTIFFANY T 㡴ਙᘦ㦓㐷椳 TIFFANY & CO. ㍖䉅 MATTHEW BROOKES. 䎙㦒 SPELA LENARCIC. ⠢ห SASKIA DE BRAUW @VIVA MODEL MANAGEMENT.

66}- (:(/5< 䖄Џ 䒅〰Ռ㜧

㍖䉅 Brigitte Niedermair

74}6.3 ↆׄᠧ㐗 Ѱ㠸ᡆ֥䆈㑨

78}6.3 ┳㐆ጦӵ CÉLINE 㥔䈵

84}6.3 㐀㌷㈸㠸

⠦‫م‬㍖䉅㎉ MELVIN SOKOLSKY

96}6.3 ↆׄᠧ㐗 䅩ገ℆䈃

42}6 . 3 Ӗੀ㔴‫־‬

)$6+,21 㐀䘡

100}Ӯ䅩䆙᝔‫ק‬

К≤ ⤙䍑

46}6 . 3 ⠥֨ֆ〰

㍖䉅 Matthew Brookes

114}նক㦓

ᚒᦁ䔦≆ 昲昲㍹‥ ฿‫␲≁㉗ث‬

㍖䉅 Amit Israeli

126}Ղড

䀔ሢ䔨⁠ 52}6.3 ㈵ջᙨ䌄ᠢᑷᙨ

㍖䉅 Karen Collins

136}/,)(67< /( ㍹⁑ᘦ㐒

㐀䘡 56})$6+,21 ๕๕䌐৫

㉦⁓㉦冁 ┕㝕‫؟‬⡂ৡ䙅⊓ᒃ㎅㐕䕧㤇

㍖䉅 Eric Maillet

152}6.3 ,1)250$7,21 䚃㦁ᔘ㖃

㐀㌷㈸㠸 64}6.3 䙨≓⠢ห SASKIA DE BRAUW 36

{ S K P } 䘓℗ᡄׄ

ᤔ≱֒ㄗ 㐀㌷䘓℗ JESSICA MICHAULT 㝩㠉ૌ∧㡅㐀㌷㉦ᤥӮ㝩 յぅ২㦕ӈᡕ֥䚃№䙈㖃b䅢ሢૅ⠃֥ᙨᝲุ䄔b ⊆ふᤢ㦃‫ط‬䂓 㐀䘡㐢ᡁ䊇䎀Է䎙֥㐗䅖 ᐠ

㥄ጔਔ㐀䘡ᖙ҃‸ᡸ䊇ᡁ䘇䑂㐓ₕㅂa‫ط‬ᥥ

Чₗ䚒〰ᝲ㜱ㄲ䉷৯֥ Dries Van Noten

ध҂≇≇अ㤕䊇ੀ䘕䊇㍥䑂㕹㌶֥玖玖ᦃ

⚃ਔ㍐ᦃ㐀䘡Ч㍦֥㠁ีb

䎁䅢〙⁅π֥䀔ሢ䕙 ๙ᡸ㐈䉤㚈‫פ‬䘨ᡑѩ

ᚑb㐀䕄֒㢇 㐀䘡䀔䙗㍦֥㦙䕓䅖䆄ᖙ㍹

䒃ሢ㤇սᙨᝲ֥ᚑ䘡㡶ख⁸ऎ֒ս᜹b㈢

ձ⦁㦃๋㍸М≱䈙֩㐷ᕉ ิ ㎂ਔ䔈ሢ䀔

ਔ䘕эb۲ਫ਼〰⥑⡐ㄗ䔐ફ䊇䉂ᤦਆ۱ु㔕

‫ط‬䎁㍡℅㎉ૌ㌒ᙆ७㦃ֹ⁕Ӈ㐵䑴 ᡄ䒀

㍖㈸㦃う֥䘤ৡૅ᜹bՎई䔐πᤦਔЧ㡴

М֡‫ط‬ኀ֥┠⢗ 㔆➅㦙䌄᥸৳㝓b

ૌ֥䘓㑧᜹ ⁕䈹䎙䅢䕥㈸োЧ㦙䕙⎑㝖

ਙ 㑃 M a r c h e s a L u i s a C a s a t i 䌄㎔㈸

㍐ኃ〰⥑㐵㚓㉦㡃㉈֥‑≁⢓սϮ ๙ᡸ㦁

㔆➅㍴䕄➁➅֥ㅴ᜹ 䒃䕥ပ䀔ᘦ㐒ѩ٤

Gabriele D’Annunzio 䔥ℵӦ䌓䍰㐗㕦ゑ

㡴ਙ֥ᖙ҃ট䈹䎙䅢䕥㠡㌶֥㔆➅ᙐ㝦b䈗

҂ᖗ‫❢م‬b

ᖙ ֥ ㍰ 㕉 b㉦ Վ 㡶 ख 䑔 ৯䌄❷ ㈸ ⠦ 㦙 ℷ

Վ҂ં㕨ૌ֥ग़ᦀ㈸㑶㉦ᤥђ₃฿㢇 ۲㞆

С ☕㤇ሢᡄ䕩䎀䅢Ց㎐㈀ਔַॆ৯ 㠡⎐

䖘ᠨ㉇⊖ㅉ㍦᜹֞䌄㍥䑂㕹㌶֥ૄⅡֆ〰

⊕ 䅄ֹ փ ⢈䊇 䒃 ሢ 䀔 䉨䌓 ᜹ 㦙֥癈 ৯䔥

䔥ℵ ᔱЌ䉷䅢䕥ㅖ≓ㅑ㔆➅֥۱㈸ุ䄔b

䕙bՎ㜱 㐗ᥢ〄♓䎁᥸৳㝓㌶֥䀔ሢ䉅㤴

ᡁ䊇䒃䅢㦁ㆈ㐡 Chanel 䌄 Givenchy ֥ਆ

䆙⎐䔕⠒ ふӮ ទ䈹䎙ਔ䅢ᚆᚆᕨ⁇㍖う

ሢ䀔㄂㐢ध№২䔕bᖗ䒀۲䙗䁗֞䅢䕥ᔵ䅢

֥㐴त㚓≱b

㠡ᖗ֥ᘦ㐒 ⡹㈰ᡄ䒀ℇӁ㍹䌄䕩҂㙷֥䉦

ᐠ⁕䀤䎁ᕕՎ䕥ℷऎㅖ➅㦙䌄₇㐀᜹֥㤇

䍒᜹ 䊃҂䕅㖂ᡸ䍅┘㐀㌷㍧ऎ᥸ᔘ㦙a㍴

ս┠⢗ት−⡠㖃ᕃ֥䅢䕩〰⥑䕙 ᖙ․䚃ᤔ

䕄䌄㈸᠃㤰֥Ч䕓 䒃䕥ु㔕✷‫㍹᠃֥؛‬䘥

֥ ۱ ২ 䅅 㑶䉰 H e d i S l i m a n e 㝩 S a i n t

㖃 䔐㉦㠉ૌ䎁᥸৳㝓㌶֥㕦⅘㕦㞖b

Laurent ㍡℅֥䚃ᥢ䅢۱㐀䘡㡴ਙb

Chanel 㝩ふ㍡䎁≁е‥‘֥ ┕ն―ភ֥

䚒㝩䎁ᜦ〰⥑֥㥴⡆ն䀔 Hedi Slimane ⅲ

䀔ሢν䕆ਔӑᡸ2000Ϝᕁ≁䚔䆁 ૄϜᔱ㐢

䔥䁂䎁㞆䊇 ┕ l’Université ∕֥䅢ጡૅ⚅

㚈⥐㡨㞆bՎई㥔ᡶ৫᜶⅘䉅 㤇ሢૄ㞆ℓ

ૅ倄֥18㐕ℒᠢ䐩䕙ई㦕b‫ط‬䚒㝩ᕕᜦ㡴

џᔱ⡹न䐷 VIP ր䌕֥䚅ᡨ᜹㑃bGivenchy

ਙ1980⢓ս㍐❵ᙨᝲ֥䕅䈁 ᡄ䀔ℓџ䅓㐢

䐅ᔵт璒≷ⅲ䀔ሢյ䎙Ӯ㍰ぷ֥⡉䕓❷ភ

धᕕ㔆㤰֥b䕀䚂≁❷֥㡷∙ђ҃䀔ሢૄ

䔀 䅢䔈⥐爒䂐䊅 ֥䚓㡨Мौ❷ភ㄰у‫ط‬

۱∀ઋ ㍴䕄৵ૄ䅢Ϝᤷ㌀⦄ひ䚔䆁ᔱ䎁䆁

㍡b❷ភ䙗㍦Ϥ䘕ㄈ ֥∦᠐ⅲ䀔ሢㅉᝩӮ

Мጡ䘱䉷ख़䙂ℓџ䀀⠖֥‑≁⠕⥑b

㠡㑶ᙨᝲ㤇ս֥ᔵ৫㥈㌈☧ 㝩ᡄुᖙ҃‸

䊇㐢ᥤ ҂≇ૄ 㞆冀ਢ㤇ሢ֥ᡨџᔱફ҂ Gucci Է䈁䙥ℱ Alessandro Michele 䆄Ӯ

ն䀔ઋ⡆䔥ᥢ Saint Laurent ᦘ㎗ᙑ์㦃

䒀ᙑљյ䎙ਔᡄुᚑ㐩䚑ញ֥ᔵ℗㐴∀b

㝩䈹䎙 ≴֥䅢Ϝᤔ㐷 㕨䍧ᢑ䙂฿ઔ㦕ॢ

ֹⅲૄ㞆ᡨџ䚓ᡸ֥䚔䆁㡗㑶‫־‬㔢֞㕨ૌ

䉰Վ㕨ૌ֤䆇㤧ҳ֞ૄ䅢Ⅱֆ〰䕙㕦䍧ᢑ

㤨㤶৯֥㡴ਙ ふ❷㈸癈৯۷㎇䅢ጀ 䒃䅅֤

㢇挡֥⊓ᒃ⁕㐢㞆䊇 ┕֥䐩䥷䔥䕙b䒃

֥㐷ញ㡷∙ ㉁ᤥ䅢ጡหљ֥ጡ┠ᤤ≦䑈֥

䈅䊇㕨䎁㠱㕹҃≱㌶֥䅢‫ى‬७㦃bᡸ㈀㕨䐑

䕥⁸ ≖ᚒᦃ㍐❵֥⥐ሢ ⌀৵⅘ᡈਔ㐕૫

ↀ㈸ₕ䆈ᔱᤒ㠡Ќ☡ֹӯ㤇䄀ㄗbՎ㜱㎗

նਈ㐈䉤䂅㠶 ☕ᚑ䘡Їᡷ䎁䕧䕧❷㠶䔥

֥㐀䘡щ₀䌄ᡈ㑃ᤑր֥⠖ੀℓџᔱ҂≒

ᙑ 䕧 䅅 ֥ 㐢 Ϩ 䒃 㥖 ↀ 㦃 ᔵ ऎ ֥ ㍡ 䕆 㕦

䕙 ⁕㐢㐈䉤န㚉⠒֥぀⡆૫ϰⅲ䚒〰≉㦕

㝩䔥圕㈢㦃ᔘb

Ր ૄ㞆ℓџᔱ䉷⁣‸䎁㤇ሢ⥉ጇ㥔ᡶ❱

ㆉ᝵b䒃ਆ䕥䆈㑨㐷ᕉᔱ⡹᠒㤗֒ӱᕃֹぇ

a㍴䕄㐢䘓䅖㒑〶֥䑰〙ᤤ㐴〨bՖ‫ط‬㝩

㐈ᡄ䕩ⅲ䘇䈁৯₂䕙䎁ᚑ䘡Ч㍦㌶ ѩ㙷㐀

〰⥑ջটђ₃㈆ㆃ֥ऍն䀸ጦ㥔䈵 㙷㐀䆙

☕ふ㕨䅢ㅉᜲ㈲䈗㔳䖑Ⅶ㥄㉓䊇М≱䔥䕙b

38

䘖㞕 Jessica Michault

㚓〙ট䍃 ϱ㈃㕦䉷

‫ם‬ⅲख़䈰䙂䙗ₓ⠖ᤖ֥≁⥑⥉䑰ᖙ҃ 䎁

֥ℓџ۷เ䅢㔈ᔵห‫ط‬䚅ᡨ֥᜹㑃b ਆሢ䀔֥䅢۱᠃๙䔥ጡ ь㐢㝩㤇ሢૄ㞆ᡄ

{ S K P } Ӗੀ㔴‫־‬

THE VIEW FROM BEIJING

ROMY ZENGđ䙇㍧ૂุ㈸đऎ䉷㐕∲䖘䈄≦㍰֥㐀㌷ᤤ㍹⁑ᘦ㐒 〹ં䒀b㕰ⅲ㝩㠉ૌջট≤በ䚃㈵㐀㌷a䆈㑨ᤤ㍹⁑֥ᠧ㐗b

䕙ᡵ㍡℅

) $ 6 +, 2 1 1 2 :

㎗䍗ᙘ֥К≤ FASHION NOW ध ᕕ㐢㈵㔦ᕃ䚃᝔֥⠖Ս䔥 䅢 䌄 ふ 㕨 㐀 䘡 䕱 ҂ 䅢 䄰 ֥ 㐢 䒃 ۱ 䆄 ≨ 䉐 䉷 ⁸ ᝔ 䔡 ⠖ ᕃ֥㐀䘡ᖙ҃〶㕹䔸ᡁ䘇 䕙ᡵ䚃㦁㉶ᤤ䚃᜘䉷Է䎙 ৯ ֥ ᔵ ৫ ㍡ ℅ ㎉ ѩ ㅑ 䂈 ᝲ ॥ 䕉 ҕ 䌄 䒀 ֥ 㑶 ਈ 䚃 䕤 ⡹ ᠒ 䙨 ㌶ К ≤ FA S H I O N N O W 䀔 ሢ ֥ ᔱ 㐢 ֒ 㢇 䕙 ᡵ 䚃 㑃 䖖 ⡐ ֥ ⢓ ㅦ ㍡ ℅ ㎉ đ ২ ㉦ RICOSTRU aE V EN I N G aV M A J O R b 㕅㈢ૄₗᔱ䔸㕥‫ק‬ₑ㞆㍡℅ ㎉ ᐠК≤ FASHION NOW ᡵ℉ᦈ ֥Ҡ䚒⠢㐒धᕕ㝩䕙ᡵ㐀㌷֥ ᖙ䑂ջটਔ۷‫֥؟‬ᘦ㤵ゑ㐓b

42

䘖㞕 Romy Zeng

{ S K P } Ӗੀ㔴‫־‬

䌄䐑抁䕁䅢ょo㊑҄p

⊒䍗䅢‫ק‬҂⡹հᡸ֥⌀㐢䒃ሢ⠖㝩o㊑҄p֥䑂ফb o㊑҄p֥ਫ਼ ≷䅓䔐ᤔᥣ䈵ਔ䆈㑨℗֥Է䚒┳ӱ Ֆ㕨1980 ⢓ս⠨≉㦕֥䎔づ 㤇㐄䖘䈄㐄䄔a1990⢓ս䕙づ䎁К≤Է䚒֥䅢㡴ਙպ૫ऎ֥շ䕖 ㈸㠸㦓㤶 ֞2000⢓䔥ᥢ㜹Ӯ֥ऍᚆᦆ䚒b o㊑҄p㐢ᕕ䆈㑨℗䚃 㝩㜹䔈֥ ᠨ 䅓㙷㐀ҧ૫ⅹ㑩ਔ䕙ᡵ֒ս֥䆈㑨䌈≴䄂ᦈb䒃Ց ֥䑂ফॢℵ㍡℅㉇㈢䉰䐑抁䕁֥ሥづᤦ䚒⁒ဒνฬ䕡䀆Ⅹ䘅䂉⊆ 㕦ิប 䆇㆑䑶a䂒㍥㦙֥䑂㐓㦓㐒᠅ীጇ䆈㑨℗‫گ‬䍴‫ط‬҂ᕐ䄂э ֥䆈㑨㍹䁷b 䑂ফ㉈づğ9䍗19㉈-11䍗19㉈ 䑂ফֹׄğ䉩⚆㔂֒ս䆈㑨䕙㦃 Ӕ䄥ㆉ⊓㢔ㄸਫ਼4ᤖ798䆈㑨ㆉ www.ucca.org.cn

㚓〙ট䍃 ϱ㈃㕦䉷 ;&/( '"/;)*Ĕ 10353"*5 9 $. 0*- 0/ $"/7"4 ḡ ;&/( '"/;)* 456%*0

䕙ᡵᡵ℉㐀䘡䕱

㐀㌷֥⚅ 䙥㐢䙲᠒␥ 2017⢓Խ㢉֥䕙ᡵᡵ ℉㐀䘡䕱䊃㉦䍑‫ط‬䕄b㕅㈢䍅┘ë┕⤙䍑䒃 㥖㐕∲֥㐀㌷䕙㦃 ᐠ㐢К≤֥㐀䘡䕱䅢 䔨Ќ䉷䙂䙗ₓ֥䙈㖃 䎀℘㌶䒃┢₂䕙ਔ䕙 ᡵधն҆ᙑ㐀㌷ૂุ 㑃ᡁ䘇ᕃ䙗㈢᤹᝔b ≓ₑₗ֥䕙ᡵᡵ℉㐀䘡䕱䍒ট䍒≦ґa䍒ট 䍒ᡵ℉ᦈ 䄲ㅶ֞⤶䕳֥䅢㤖⠒㦆₉ ㍡℅㎉ট䙨䀔 б㉦2016⢓ㆀᔕₗ㌶ᝄᝄটᡸ ֥ MARY KATRANTZOU. К≤ᘢᒃa751D·PARK К≤㐀㌷㍡℅ᡒሢ

䉦䁸֥ oઔp㌶К≤

≓⢓ট ઔ㑨ᤤ䒃㤱䍦ᔘ㕦ጦ‫֥־‬䉦䁸 䌄䙗㈢≦㍰䍒ট䍒㑃֞К≤㐱⠆֥㡱 ι ૄ⢓⊒䍗֥К≤ᡵ℉ઔ㑨ն㎉㊇䅓 䆄≨Ӯ㝩ਔ≁ㆀ֥≤በ㎅㐗䔥䅢b≂⢓ ֥ն㎉㊇䅧㈢䉰㉵㐔䖙⠖䕢і䕉䎙㌳ ᡃ⠖ 䔀㉖۷℘ㄲն 䕩‫؟‬㈆ㆃ‫פ‬ℳゆ㐷 㙷ሢ⊁ₕ 㕨ૌⅲℨ䌩140‫〒؟‬䙥Ω䔲ᡸ 䆓䌳֥䑤θ㊇ઔ ᠃㙷∀䖑᝔ղ162㝇䌳 ֥㊇㐗ⅸ≁b⌀䎁К≤ 䒃۱⊒䍗䉷۷ ‫֥؟‬㈸䙨≓ઔ㑨aι㌶ઔ㑨 ۷ι㌶ઔ㑨 ջট֥㐀㌷aⅢूa䙗㈢֥㍹⁑ᘦ㐒b ㉈づğ9䍗2㉈-9䍗4㉈ ֹׄğК≤⤀ӗ www.beijingmasters.com

㊈┢㜐๙䉄䕙㦃 䕳℉⊓ᒃ

К≤䊃䉷ਔ㦁֥Ӗੀᤔ㈀ጡ ‫؟‬⢓≦㦃յ䎙֥㊈┢㜐๙䉄䕙㦃䕳℉⊓ᒃ䕤䊇∑ष㍰➁૫㌉b ㊈┢㜐1ᤖ֥‑≁㞆䕆ᤤ150 ➀֥᝔ᕃ䈁㞁䙂㈆㦁֥㐀癢ุ䄔 ㈰⤉䎁К≤َ֥ᦃ䚃䕙㦃‫ڤ‬杳฿℉ 㤖b䒃℗䕳℉⊓ᒃ֥ᙥӗ㐒㜱ᡄ⠥֨᜹㎗䙲 ⡷҆㍡℅䅓㐢≥䄃䕩㈸ 45〶ᘦ➀ょ๋֥ӑնᤑᦃᘨ ℵ 䎁䅢ੀ⊓ᒃ䍡₂֥К≤䅓धᕕ㐢㈰㈸≥ฑ֥ն㐷гb Ӕ䄥ㆉ㊈┢㜐1ᤖ 100600 www.ihg.com/intercontinental/hotels/cn/zh/beijing/peghe/hoteldetail

43

{ S K P } Ӗੀ㔴‫־‬

THE VIEW FROM NEW YORK

㞆䊇㞕䆈䚃ㄗ䂗֥⤙䍑đ㐑䕤㐢⁀ऊ㐀㌷aᒀ䉅aૅ㐂䌄 䆈㑨֥Ӗੀ㎇ֹđ䅓㐢䎁䒃䚔በ㐱┢҂ᕐ䘨䁗㈆㦁ุ䄔 ֥䚒℗ ALEX ZAFIRIS ֥℗b㕰䌄 MIXT(E)aBOMB ᤤ PARIS REVIEW ֩‫؟‬Ч䍴䕁ष䑂ᤦ䚒đ䅓㝩⤙䍑㐀Бゃ 㢇֥ T MAGAZINE បᝠb

7+( 5 2: ≦〰ᒃ

䉰 MARY- K ATE OLSEN ᤤ ASHLEY OLSEN Է㍡֥ ⁸ⅉ䖘䈄᝔ᕆ㍐ኃ〰ᚑ㐩㡴ਙ䊇㠨䍗㐸Ց 䎁⤙䍑૫㐕b㤗бጦ㚄䈁䈄֥ᒃけ 䒃䚔 㞆䊇㌶‫ת‬ㆉ֥㊈Ҫ㥈ੌ۷㤴䅢۱㞓傆֥ ℗ 䑂㐓䙂ष٢㑂છ֥ JEAN-MICHEL BASQUIAT ֥䆈㑨Է䚒ᤤ NOGUCHI ㍡℅֥℗ऎb≦〰 ᒃ⡷㙷㐀ӧਙ䙂 SANTA MARIA NOVELLA ૅ䘢 Ӂ〰₃ SERGE LUTENS 㤠㒑b䒃䅓㐢 OLSEN ∨ ૈ㐸Ց㜃ጇ㥙੫㡴ਙb 17 East 71st Street, New York City www.therow.com 44

䘖㞕 Alex Zafiris

{ S K P } Ӗੀ㔴‫־‬

& 5(' 2 %($8 7 <

㚓〙ট䍃 ϱ㈃㕦䉷Ġḡ *"/ (*55-&3 '3"/$0*4 )"-"3% $0635&4: 0' 5)& 308 +"/& ,3"50$)7*- &7"/ 46/( 5&4$" %"//: -:0/ $0635&4: &%8:// )06, ("--&3: $0635&4: 0' .&530(3"1) --$

฿㈢ૅ䘢ᒃ

2 /06 7 ( '

ૅ㐂Ҕ๏

䍃䊇⊖≁㌘֥ CREDO BEAUTY 〷∳〰⥑ᕕ㠡ᢅ䌶ᅣਘ֥䂈⎂ ѓ䘳 㔦䁗㈆㐕∲䚃฿㈢a䉷㥔 ᤤᦖЌ֥᥷‫ڑ‬₃ૅ䘢Ӂ〰b㕨ૌ 䊇㠨䍗䎁⤴০㕱ष㍡⤙䍑ֻ֥ 䅢ℵᒃ 㝩㍧䤩Ⅲू㍹⁑䔥֥֡ ⤙䍑㈸ิប䒈䁂㌳〰b

҃ਗ਼क़ਟ䑂㝖᝔ֹ㌶֥ OLMSTED 㐢䖘ጉ GREG BAXTROMč䐑䊇 ALINEA STONE BARNS ֥ BLUE HILL ₃ ATERA ֩➀ふਟҔ๏ញ䚒Ď㥢㐷ᡸ㈀㙷 䎁 ATERA ញ䚒֥䌹䆈℗ IAN ROTHMAN ᠃㙷 ष㍡֥㈆㦁Ҕ๏b㕨ૌ䉤ᥢ䍉䕥䔩֥฿ ㈢㐂ᅣ䕉䚒Ӯૅ㞁֥֒ₗҔׄ 䖉㉦ᝳ 熗㤵㉈ঈᥩઃѾ⎐ৡѦ ⁕㐢‫נ‬㤠㤠Ҥ 䍁㚃Ѣⁱ☉b

9 Prince Street, New York City www.credobeauty.com

659 Vanderbilt Avenue, Brooklyn www.Olmstednyc.com

'$11< /<21

㍖䉅 ᠨ䑂

ጦ ぷ ㍖ 䉅 ㎉ ᤤ 䆈 㑨 ℗ D A N N Y LY O N 䎁 20 㐕ℒ 60 ⢓ս⥉㍖֥ ℒ♙⡷䑆ᤤ⠥㜓Ӛဘ֥㡴ਙ 䑰〙䕄≂㉇⁸ऎ䉅㤩৯ѩ䒗 ᢘ㈸㦃b㕨֥㐸Ց۱㈸ ᠨ 䑂 “ DANNY LYON:۳㝹ট֥㦄p ⅲ䎁‴ห⢄ૅ㑨ᡆ䑂ጇđᕕព 䕩ष٢䕄9䍗25㉈b‴ห⢄ૅ㑨 㦁ᡆ֥Ⅹ䘅㍡℅䆙҂㉖հᡸb 99 Gansevoort Street, New York City www.whitney.org

0(7 52 * 5 $3+

≦〰ᒀ䉅䍉

㞆䊇㢇‫ת‬ㆉ֥㈆㦁㒈぀䉅䍉㝩ᒀ䉅ι ᤔ䒀หљष㍡ਔҔ๏a⊓ϔa㑖ᒃ₃บ ᡶᒃb䉅䍉≦㦃䁂‫ק‬٢䉈〙ֆ Ѭ٢≨ ᑷᤤ䚃㦁ᒀ䉅 ᦘ㝩ईပն㦒⁑ᔘ₃ ᒀ䉅㐸䉈㐒ิបሢֹb 7 Ludlow Street, New York City www.metrograph.com

45

{ S K P } ⠥֨ֆ〰

BROCART ARCADE ᚒᦁ䔦≆

ᦃৡ䔦≆Їᢑ≦䕅Տ䀖a㡷∙䘡㐩a ≁ᡑе㌀֩䌳㔳b㕩oᡸᕃ䑔䄠p֥ห䕓㈰䅢 䕩䁗ㆄㄲਛㅴ᜹㐨٢֥㍡℅㎉㦃ᔘ㍰䄶b 䘖㞕 Colette Marc. 䎙㦒 Alexandra Bednarek

㑃䄲 㥹㌴2016/17ㆀᔕն 䀔֥㐀䘡℆䒀ૌ㑓 㐥圹䈁ֹ ค 䚓 ㌈ᖙ ┢ 䙗㠁ն҄䙨ᡸ䄀ㄗ֥⠢ห㐢ᙸ㐗㢓ㄘ㉰ ┕䅉⡠ភčPalais d ’IenaĎ㆖ 䙨ᦃৡ℗ ऎᤤ啁⡆‫ط‬յ䎙ጇ㍦㌶֥ሥ㈠ড়ᚑb䆇 ― ℗ᡨ䙴℗ऎ૫ਘ㝩ਲ᜹֥ᚒᦁ䔦≆҂≇䎁䒃ሢ㐀䘡䀔䕙ई⡐∓ 㐢 䊇 Prada ₃ Alessandro Michele ਵ㢙֥ Gucci 䅓㐢҂奲‫؟‬ ㈰bBalenciaga 㦁㉁䙥ℱ Demna Gvasalia 䔱䑕㢇֥㐸۱㡴ਙ 䆇ᦁ㜂≆՛֥䔦≆ਊ㤗 ۷㐢☕㈸䄀≡㝩䔥䅢ਊb⦁㐩㡴ਙ㙷䄰㉓ ㉰o℘ㄲϱp֥ิᦁ ጔਔ㌶㑩䉐՛䔦≆֥㍡℅㎉䔥㜱 DioraRoger Vivier ᤤ MCM ֩〰⥑䅓ַ֓҂ਔՎ䅢ᦃৡ૫ਘ֥癈৯b 䊇≓㉈㤇㍦㍥䑂㕹֥ᚒᦁ䔦≆㐗㐄㌶㈕㐢㈆ㆃ䕩‫؟‬㞕ᦈ┢┳㐆䚃 ⊐䍅֥૫ਘ䔥䅢b㐩䉷≁䈣㤖֥ґ㌀㚓σ҃ਘሥ⊐䆇ট䆙㝩ㅷᑷ䅴 㐒ᤤ␗䅆㍦ᙘֹ㞆֥૫ਘbᚒᦁ䔦≆⁕䀤҂䆐ℨ䌩 ᐠड़‫ק‬㐢䚃ᕨ ㈸䄀ㆃ֥㐀㌷䌳㔳b

㚓〙ট䍃 ϱ㈃㕦䉷 ḡ 1011&3'050 .0/*$" '&6%* )6-50/ "3$)*7&

1964⢓֥અઔ∕㚈 䅢⠖⠢ห㍦䙂䈁ն০᝔‫ק‬㐀䘡〰 ⥑ SORELLE FONTANA ㍡℅֥ᚒᦁ䔦≆ᚑ㐩b

㒑䙹䔦≆᝔۵㥙 MIU

MIU.

ն䅩㐒≆ᕑ৵䅩㈠ DIOR. 46

"DIORAMA"㒑䙹Տ䀖〧−㐷տ DIOR.

{ S K P } ⠥֨ֆ〰

㚓䕙䒃ᘦ䒇㔈≆㞗૫ਘ㐢㝩1851⢓䈱ᡵ㐕Ѱ‸䘓 ❢㍡℅䕉䚒‫ط‬Ӯb

䔦≆Տ䀖ն䅩aօ⤓ө㌡a䔦≆䄳ջaᜅጂᕇ॰a฿‫㉗ث‬䒅䖄 㐷⡔Їa㒑䙹䔦≆㔈㉗᝔۵㥙 MIU MIU. "DAHLIA"㒑䙹䔦≆䒇】㐷տ MIU "DIOR UMBRAGE"㞗㐩≶〙慷戁㖂䄥≶ DIOR. 47

MIU.

{ S K P } ⠥֨ֆ〰

SO GLOSSY 昲昲㍹‥

Чₗ ҂ં㐢㌢䅆ᡑ䐆ᦘ㐢ℷऎ‫گ‬ᠢᤤ㝹ট᜹֥ひ 】૫ਘ ਊ૫㥔ᡶ֥㌢ਊᡑ‥㜹ૅ䉈㌶㍥䑂㕹b

1992⢓㌶䉈֥u爧爘㢅ᡘটvᒀ䉅 䕙 ➀㥗‫غ‬c٣ᙷčMICHELLE PFEIFFERĎ㐩 䄂֥ભ⤧∀㌀䙥㐢䅢㍦ひ】≅㍦䅩b

䘖㞕 Colette Marc. 䎙㦒 Alexandra Bednarek

≓ ⢓ ট VINYL ᤷ ↇ ሱ 〙 䖘 䌶 ਘ ֥ ≶ ૫ ᡑ 䐆 㥔 ᡶ 䙥 㐢 䘓 㑧 䊇 ґ 䘢 ∲ ӑ ㌢ ਊ Հ ґ ₃ ™ 䉴 ₇ 㝩 䚃 № ২ 䔕 b V I N Y L ૫ ਘ 䐑 䈗 ふo㌢ਊpห䕓Ф㐴㝩᝔ᡨ૫ਘb㉦≂㕩֥㐀㌷ Ӗ㠡䅶㐢 㚓〙ট䍃 ϱ㈃㕦䉷 ḡ 5*.& -*'& 1*$563&4Ġ 0-*7*&3 4"*--"/5Ĕ$)"/&-Ġ (&55: *."(&4Ġ "-'0/40$"5"-"/0 4(1*5"-*"Ġ41&&%,*/( ! .& $0.

ӯ㤇ጇᕕ⡘۱㐀ս֥‫گ‬ᠢㅴᦒb҂֤҂ิょ⍢㊙ਞc֣⡠備 čCatherine DeneuveĎ䊇ᒀ䉅uϢ㉈ૅ㈸v䕙ጤょ⡘䅢㡧㠡㥱 ⎐⁠֥ Yves Saint Laurent ᤷ㌀ひ】ᙨ䅩đ㉦Վ֥ᙨᕃ玖玖b2016 ‫م‬ᡵ⢓ᕃ㐀䘡 ANDAM նⅸ֤䖘䆙㝩 Wanda Nylon 〰⥑Է䈁䙥 ℱ֥ Joanna Senyk 㜃ጇ㦙᜹ᙨᝲ֥䌃䅩ᤤਸ਼ো PVC ᅣ䕓֥㉈ӈ 㐀䘡 㤨с㑃֞䒃䅢䎙㦒֥ゑᖙbふ㕩䅢䕩䅢㤖㐀䘡㠠䅓֒㈷҂ ㈰ DioraChanelaValentino ᤤ Louis Vuitton न䔆㢓㜃ጇ䆇Վ㝹 ট᜹㎗䙲૫ਘյ䎙‫ط‬Ӯ֥ֆ〰 䉷㐀㍴䕄ⅲ㌶Ӱ㍐ᦃ】ᝰ℘ញӮ 㝩oぷ 㔷ਘp㥔ᡶb Ղᤷ۷㐢ӑ䍒ਊ䄀㌀‫ט‬ᤤ≁㑧䕓᜹ 䆇Է㦁㐷‫م‬䤇㐨ᡸ㈀≇䍦䉤 䎁ጦ㚄ሱ〙䕉䚒֥ᤷↇᅣ䕓b㒘֞ VINYL ۷㐢㠡‫م‬հᡸᡱ㎘ু㜂 䖘ሱ Mick Jagger 㥢㐷⠖֝ Martin Scorsese 㝩 HBO յ䎙֥䄶ᡱ ख₂uᤷↇ㐀սvb₇ь䎁ख䕙 ฿‫㉗ث‬ᤤঙϓ॰б㌢ਊひ】۷‫ژ‬ ᤦᠧ㐗㐀սМ≱b

ひ】䊖१ਂ㥙 PRADA.

ひ】ሥ㈠ MARC 48

JACOBS.

ひ】㐷տ MARC

JACOBS.

{ S K P } ⠥֨ֆ〰

】䅩aਊ〙Տ䀖ᕇ㈠a䒇】瑵䁆a≁㑧㤱╗₃㐷╗a≁㑧䄳 ջa"DV1"≁㑧२䒇】㐷տ VERSACE. ひ】䄳ջ SAINT LAURENT.

䎙㦒ᦈ䘢ᤧ CHANEL. ひ】ն䅩a⡷ձ㌶䅩a䄣ર㈠a ひ】ሥ䁆a㖂䄥≶ WANDA NYLON. ひ】瑵䁆 VALENTINO GARAVANI.

⠢หጤ䙂 AQUASPRITE 〰⥑֥Ϣ㌀ VINYL ひ】䌃䅩č㍖䊇1969⢓Ďb

49

{ S K P } ⠥֨ֆ〰

VELVET GOLDMINE

฿‫␲≁㉗ث‬

㕩֥㞓䍧ᡑ䐆䅢䔨䆇ট⌀㐢֮‫ט‬㍐ᦃ֥ս⠖Սb 䒃۱䚃㉠ૅᦃᡨ֥≨ᑷ૫ਘ䊇Чₗㄲ㐡 ᡘ㍥䑂㕹b 䘖㞕 Colette Marc. 䎙㦒 Alexandra Bednarek

҂ં㐢㝵նᦆ℗ᤠ‫غ‬Ϩ䈗čHolbeinĎa⚆ѱ⒅čRembrandtĎг㢇 ֥ᡨ䙴㝐㐳㥑㤴ᦆ ᦘ㐢―ភበ့a䒅ᡨᔵห֥℗ऎᤤ≦〰⊓ᒃ֥ Գ৺啁⡆ll฿‫㉗ث‬䙥㐢䉦䁸ᦃᡨ֥і䔄 䈗䙂㕩֥ᦃૅጠ᜹ 䅓䈗 䙂㕩⡘㝇੭ㄈ㔈֥ↀ㦃䔥䚒b฿‫ث‬㔈㉗ょ䍃䊇䕙ᡵ 䔦䎙ₕ㑨㦐ょ 䊇ព䌳13㐕ℒㄗ ⅦⅦੀጦ۲ֹb㝙⢄㔂aᙷઅ⚆㊃a㈵⡘䂀֩䈁ն ০በ㐱䊇㞕䆈‫گ‬㦐㐀づ䔥℉ Ӯ㝩䒃䅢㍐ᦃ૫ਘ֥䕧䅅㍹Ӂ䕙㦃b≂ ㉈ ₇ь฿‫㉗ث‬䆇ញ䅖ᘦ㐒ᤤᤦӮ㢖㝱䔦䕉‫ط‬Ӯ ㈕㐑䕤㐢㈃৯ᤤ㍐ ᦃ֥‫ژ‬ᤖ㤶䔄b ฿‫֥㉗ث‬㉠ᤤጠ᜹a㞓㉸ᡑ䐆ᤤԼ䘰㥔ᡶ ᔱ㈰㕩Ӯ㝩焆炒䘐䖀 ֥ध№૫ਘb≂⢓ㆀᔕ 㐀䘡㍡℅㎉Ֆ┳㐆‫گ‬ᠢᚑ㐩₆㆖‫پ‬᜘ਲ ᜹ ⅲऎ䉷ᔵห䈁䍧֥฿‫㉓㉗ث‬㉰䎙㦒㍡℅b฿‫㉗ث‬䊇Чₗն䑂㝇 䕥ᙨㅴ ҂ં㐢 Dries Van Noten ֥֮‫ט‬癈৯ ┕㐀䘡∲֥ㅥ⢓ና ‫ظ‬㍡℅㎉ Koché ₃ Y/Project ֥ⅉ∥֒ս ᦘ㐢 Rochas ֥㎔䈁㉠ ㅴᤤ Valentino ֥䕙ᠢ㐕ℒᙨㅴbSaint Laurent ֥ሥ䁆aDolce & Gabbana ֥㐷ิព㞕Ї⁕ Stella McCartney ֥㐷տ֩䆙⎐⅘㔈 ㉗㍦䉅b㉦Վ‫؟‬䄰ᦈ֥䁂䐄 ㈰⤉ㅦ㔘ⅲᦃৡ䌳㔳㉓㉰㉈ӈ䎙㦒b

"PEEKABOO"฿‫㉗ث‬㐷ิЇ '&/%* Տ䀖฿‫㉗ث‬৵䅩㈠a㒑䙹ਊ〙᝔۵㥙a㔈ጂᥰ‫≁∦ל‬㑧㤱╗a㒑䙹≁㑧ᦈ䘢Ї DOLCE 50

& GABBANA.

㚓〙ট䍃 ϱ㈃㕦䉷 ḡ .0/*$" '&6%* $6-563& $-6# ,"3&/ & &7"/4 1)050(3"1): )6-50/ "3$)*7&

{ S K P } ⠥֨ֆ〰

㔈㉗શ PRADA.

฿‫㉗ث‬ส䘡ऽӫᒀ⁷㕨䔥㍰ JIMI HENDRIX ֥ѓ䕁㦙ᚑ䘡č㍖䊇1967 ⢓Ďb 㚓䚈㝩⠸۱䈁ն০ᡨ䙴֥ᦆ㤴b㎗ੂ㐕ℒ㐀 ฿‫㉗ث‬૫ਘ䎁 ᙷઅ⚆㊃ᡨ䙴䘡ϲ䕙ϲ䄂䙂䕧䅅֥∀㌀b

฿‫㉗ث‬㎒ᦃ✀㐕ぷ㒑䙹ь㥙 DIOR.

щ䔦ਵ१㔈㉗৵䅩㈠ MARC

JACOBS.

"DIORAMA"฿‫㉗ث‬Տ䀖㐷ิЇ DIOR. ≁㑧२ᦖ฿‫ਂ㉗ث‬㥙 PRADA. 51

{ S K P } 䀔ሢ䔨⁠

TROPICAL VS. ㈵ջᙨ䌄ᠢᑷᙨ TRADITION

ՖᠢQ≨┢䍑㈵⡷♃֞⚆ᕙ 䎔Խᕃℤ㡴 ਙջਵ㠉ૌ奵䉵㐕∲a㍰䉵❱㤨ᡵᕃb 䘖㞕 Marie Noëlle Demay

52

{ S K P } 䀔ሢ䔨⁠

䐑ₑᤥ㐀 յЇ㦕┡⊀Ӯ㝩㐀䘡℆䒀֥сС่Ⅱ䔥䅢b≂⢓Խ ฿ 㔓۱㈆ㆃ䅢㤖㐀䘡㠠थ‫ק‬䍅ᜇ‫م‬ᡵ≴㜱ᖙ҃2017䎔Խᕃ ℤ㡴ਙbᕇᕇ㑶㦆づ֥㐀ℵ ь㐢㐀䘡℆䒀ૌն䑂䔈┠㦕⡩ ₕㅂ֥䚃№㐀⁣b ᝄՖᠢ ֥ Chanel 㐀䘡ն䀔ْ℗ ⌀֤৫ख़ゑӱㄗ㝔┢䍑㈵ ⡷♃ҕ℘ Louis Vuitton 㐀䘡䀔 −䙂䊃ট֞⚆ᕙ≓↉֥҃⚆ ᢂ⡂ភ 㥹㌴ Christian Dior ईပ֥䎔Խ㡴ਙ㐀䘡䀔 䚃ᥢᅤ䉰 Gucci 䊇㡆⠉㔑ईပ֥ն䀔㝩䎔Խ㡴ਙᦆ㢇ओׄb䒃ሢն䀔䅓 Ӯ㝩oBrexitč䈱ᡵ㜈⤶Ďp㈆⠆ព㚇ㄗ֥䚃㦁㞕ᦈነ⁠b 䎔Խᕃℤ㡴ਙ䔐㉦ふ⠖ 䌶㐢䘓㝩⡘㥖㡩ᡈձӰ㔆㈸䉵๘хष ⤶ૅᢓᔕ֥᜘℗⠖恄㕦㍡℅֥bⅹ⊆ᙨ㌷֥〰㞆⤧㐔䊇㐢䀙 䅅㐥ᤦ⡐ֹ֥ゕᥡ֥䎙㦒ᚑ㐩b䒃㥖≦〰㐀䘡㠠䊇 䍗㜃ጇ֥ 㡴ਙ≨ᡸ‫؟‬⢓֥ᖙ䑂 䉩ふ㐢䎁≂㉈䒃۱䔸䀙٦㦕ᕇᕇ㑶㥈㐀 ₇⎐o ₗp֥㐀ս 䆄Ӯ㝩҂㉖հᡸ֥㐀䘡㡴ਙb ≂⢓֥ᕃℤ㡴ਙӯ㤇ਆᠦ奒䈑ᙨӖ Ֆईပᖙ҃‸ֹ֥ׄ₇ᕆ ⢂⎐ҳğ䅢㝩䉰 Chanel ₃ Louis Vuitton ਵ㢙֥o㈵ջᙨp ਸ਼ 䅢䐅㐢䉰 Christian Dior ₃ Gucci ջਵ֥oᠢᑷᙨpb

䈑䌑䔥੪ ⠖㝩oCoco Cubap֥Х٢ঘ‫נ‬㐀䘡ᖙ҃‸䁂䐄䊇ᠢ 㐸ᔱ ᡹㜨⡘֥だঘ‫؟‬ն֡ Paseo Del Prado ई㦕b䒃่300➀ሥa けડᦃૅՌ䘔֥ўᢂਟ䈖ն֡䉰‫م‬ᡵ≱ᡄ㍡℅㎉յ䎙‫ط‬Ӯb 䎁ύ ઔ䙥㚄aઅઔ∅―ᤤᡱ㎘ু㜂֩㈸֥㤗ℑ䎙٠ᥢ 䒃 ۱Է㍡䊇 ┕ Cambon ∕֥㐀䘡㠠㤵㐕㈸䀸ᝡğ oᠢ 㕦䉐 䉷֥ᡔৡ‫؟‬ґᤤᕕ㐱ሢ≨ℂ֥ष٢䆄Ӯ㝩 Karl Lagerfeld ᤤ Chanel ֥䚃㦁ਲ᜹㈅䍃bpᖙ҃‸㤇ሢဒ㕇䙂ᡅ㤃ু㜂֥䄂 䙩 Karl 㤈㌶㕨۱㈸֥oᠢ ᡄׄ 䅢۱Ղե䊇㤨㤶䕙a⁕䀤Ֆ 㝹թ䎁ᡸ֥ᠢ 䈰㤶bpЇও Tilda SwintonaVanessa Paradis 䎁⡷֥400㞆џग़न㝩Վ䎔Խ㡴ਙն৯ᤙґb㐀䘡䀔䎙㦒䕙 ጔਔጦぷ䈱䀆ㅉcᝲ㜨ঘ֥Нৄશձ⦁ Chanel ֥≨ᑷ㉲⡵㥈 㜱ส ᦘ䉷ֹ֒ጦ㚄ᠲ䂀㝱ঘ㌡֥㤇ս㦁䤇㐨b〡䆖ሥ㈠a‫؟‬ 䕧ҪՑᤤ㢕⠒䈰ᦁᔱ㐢䎔Խ㡴ਙ䕙֥䕧䅅䌳㔳bᡘ۴∦ָট 㒘 䘨䁔 Chanel ‫֥✆ژ‬䔈ุᙨᝲ㉇㑧ᠢᑷb o㈵ջᙨpᤤⅲ㐀䘡ᜨ⢗䌄‫م‬ᡵ䈁㤶ջ㝔≴㜱֥㤨‫⁕م‬䀤㐢 Louis Vuitton ᤤ Chanel 䎔Խᕃℤ㡴ਙ֥䚃ն᠃㙷ׄ ᐠ䅓≇ 㤕䊇ՎbLouis Vuitton Է䈁䙥ℱ Nicolas Ghesquière ㍧㝩Ⅹ 䘅㎉ Oscar Niemeyerč⢄જ䅉Ď1986⢓յ䎙֥ Niterói ֒ս 䆈㑨Ѱ㠸ᡆ㕦㡑䈨 ㉓ᤦਆ䕥㤗䈑㞕ᦈ䔐㐢䙥ℱ㝩䎔Խ㡴ਙ⢅ ‫֥ק‬䔵֝┠⢗ ᕕՎ㕨і㐓ğ o䒃䚔Ѱ㠸ᡆऽӫ⢄જ䅉ѥትm䔱 䙂a䍅⅘ᤤℲትn≦㍰յ䎙‫ط‬Ӯ֥㠗㜓ဗb⡹᠒䎁䒃۱ऎ䉷ㄲ ਛⅩ䘅㍡℅䈁䈄ֹ֥ׄईပᖙ҃‸ 㠡䅶㐢䒗ᢘ᜹ᡂ֥ᔵหุ 㚓〙ট䍃 ϱ㈃㕦䉷

䄔bpӮᡶ㉦ᤥĤ䅢۱㊑ᖙㄲਛ㍹⠗⡹ਈa‫؟‬䌳㞕ᦈᤤ㝹ট䖘 䈄֥㐀䘡㡴ਙ䉰Վᐣ㍹b۷䕧䅅֥㐢㕩ㄲ‫ט‬䙗䉰≦㍰ ㈰₂┠ 䕐䌄ㅴ᜹䊇䅢㍦֥⤧㦙֤䆇∧٢b㡙䄥䊓搱㢇 ⠢ห䂗䙂Ѱ㠸 ᡆ֥⚒䁀㦓ぁ֡䊖ᡐ‫ط‬㢇 ㍦ᥢ䐅㐢䘤ᡄ֥┢䍑በ㐱≱㤶b䒃 ሢն䀔㠡䅶䆄Ӯ㝩2016⢓㐀䘡∲֥≦ґ㐀ख़b

LOUIS VUITTON

53

{ S K P } 䀔ሢ䔨⁠

LOUIS VUITTON

GUCCI

GUCCI

CHANEL

54

{ S K P } 䀔ሢ䔨⁠

DIOR

㝩 ',25 ᤤ *8&&, 䑁㦁 ષ Dior 䁂䐄䎁㞓㔂ᕠcㆁ⁷‫غ‬ण㐔֥ጇ㍹ֹ҃⚆ᢂ⡂ភईပ䎔Խ㡴 ਙ䀔 ۷㐢љ䉷䉤䈁bՎㄗ Christian Dior 㑃֞ઔ‫غ‬Ѱઅពणᙹ㈸ ֥䄲ㅶ 䊇1954⢓㝩ᥕ㎗䙙Ջ㌧㝂‸䎁҃⚆ᢂ⡂ភईပ H 㡴ਙ㐀 䘡ᖙ҃‸b1958⢓ 㦁㉁ㅥ⢓䆈㑨䙥ℱ Yves Saint Laurent −㑃㤗 㙷֥䄲ㅶ䊇Վ㜃ጇ䉰㕨ਵ㢙֥ Courbe 㡴ਙ 䎁ሢᡄ䀔֥ᦘЇও 䅨ৡ㌄Ϣᖗ㐕֥ㅖૈઑᝲৡหព䖘b㕰֒㐀䐑㦐‫ֹٹ‬і㐓Ֆ㝹⅘ ᡸ㉦Վૅৡ֥㐀䘡㡴ਙbDior 2017䎔Խᕃℤ㡴ਙѥӵ֥㐢੪㦕ᙨ ㌷ᤤↈ㉓ᙨᝲ֥≦㍰ ㉇䉰 Lucie Meier ᤤ Serge Ruffieux ৳㐷㍡ ℅b≂⢓㠨䍗 ӧਙ䙂┳㐆ᦆ䚒֥≁е‥‘֥ភᒇ㚓㑖ᡆ⡷䚓ડਔ 㐀㌷⠖ੀđՙ⡵㔈ጂↈ䔦㉓ᤦ ⁕㚓σ愴ᦁđ⁕٤䕳ᙨ䈰ᦁ ℷ㐶 ѩ䀥֥㐀䘡ّ䉈ጇ‫ט‬ᤤਔਸ਼ো䈱⚆ゕ䕓֥ Dior 㦁ᙨᝲb 㚓〙ট䍃 ϱ㈃㕦䉷Ġḡ #3"5*4-"7 5"4*$ "%3*&/ %*3"/%

䕄䊇䉰䙥㐢┘≨⥢֡a䑔৯㎗䙲֥ Gucci 䆈㑨䙥ℱ Alessandro Michele ਵ㢙㜃ጇ֥䎔Խ㡴ਙ䊃㉦ᤥĤ䁂䐄䎁⚆ᕙပ䀔㐢㐀䘡㠠 㤵⦖क़㐀ս䍅₃ᔱ核㝐Ӕ㢇֥䈱⚆㞕ᦈ䕅䈁b㙷㐀 䒃䅓㐢㡆⠉ 㔑⁔֤㝐㐳㐸ड़Ӯ㝩㐀䘡䀔ሢ 䈁䈄䕧նb҂ં㐢ભ㚓σ֥ґᥐ ᥄㞗ર䅩a㡆ϫ䁳ਝ㈉䍓㌶㔰ᝲধ焆炒㈠ ᦘ㐢㦙᜹瑵䁆a㊁ㅉ‫غ‬ ᙹ㈸ᡈ䉤֥㔈∸㦁䤇㐨֩​֩ᔱӯ㤇ጇն։֥ነ㚒ૅ᜹b㍡℅㎉і 㐓 o㐀䘡㉦㙷ᒀ䉅b㌧䊇䈹䎙ᙐ㝦 ᚑ䘡䎙㦒ᅤ֤䆇䑒㤅b䎁㡆⠉ 㔑┢㝩㐕㈸ӯ㤈mᡨ䙴⦖क़nਲ᜹ ㈰Ч㐀䘡㡴ਙ۷䉷䑔৯bp Dior ᤤ Gucci ֥䎔Խ㡴ਙ㤵㠉ૌ䔕⠒ ҂䀙䍅ᕄ䕧䄤₇⎐㦃㍰奵 䉵 䍅┘㐕㔲ӣ㥂b

55

๕๕䌐৫ ㍖䉅 Eric Maillet. 䎙㦒 Deborah De Groot

Ч䅔䚈 䒇】ဢ ջ BABIES㥙 HERMÈS. 䉹 ฿‫㉗ث‬ґ㌀ 㥙ջ瑵䁆 ROGER VIVIER. Ч䙸ն〙 ⡷ґ㌀॰㜩न 㝩 FALKE. 䚈䅔䚈 ฿‫㉗ث‬ 㡴ջ瑵䁆 JIMMY CHOO.

䉹 ≁㑧㡷∙㡴ջ 瑵䁆 MIU MIU.

Ч䅔䚈 ≁㑧᜹ 瑵䁆 MAX MARA. 䉹 ≁㑧᜹㡴ջ 䊖१ሥ䁆 MELLOW YELLOW. 䚈䅔䚈 ひ】瑵䁆 CARVEN. 䉹 ひ】 㥙۵ਊ〙瑵䁆 ROGER VIVIER.

Ч䅔䚈 ひ】瑵䁆 MAX MARA . 䉹 ⡉ ۵ひ】㒈㌀瑵 䁆 SPORTMAX. 䉹䅔䚈 ≁㑧᜹ 瑵䁆 FURLA. 䉹 ≁ 㑧᜹㒈㌀㡴ջ瑵 䁆 MELLOW YELLOW.

Ч䅔䚈 ฿‫㉗ث‬㥙ջ 椂ॢ㒈㌀瑵䁆 GIORGIO ARMANI.

䉹 ㉗૫㥈⤖】 㡴ջ瑵䁆 LANVIN. 䉹䅔䚈 䒇】㡴ջ瑵 䁆 LANVIN. 䉹 ㍒】椂 ॢ㡴ջ瑵䁆 DIOR. ㍖䉅䘁┠ VICTOR

GUERET, LAURA HINSTIN.

䎙㦒䘁┠ GIULIA 䎙㦒㚄ጀ

BELLAVITIS.

ALEXANDRA BEDNAREK.

⠢ห ALEXANDRAa AMANDINE MODELS.

@SPORT

{ S K P } 㐀㌷㈸㠸

MODEL 䙨≓⠢หIMAGES SASKIA DE BRAUW

㕰֥૫㉖҂≇䎁ᡒᝡն〙䕙ᤤ㍥䑂㕹㌶䑉٢ᡑґ 䅓㈰ SKP 䍴䕁Ч़ᤖ֥ᙣ૫۷℘㢕⠒䅆䄀b₇ь㉦Վ 㝧䉷䆈㑨ᅤ㐢䒃 ⠖㉖ᡑ ᖙ֥ӑ⠢֥৫䙲ׄb 䘖㞕 Nathalie Fraser

64

{ S K P } 㐀㌷㈸㠸

㉈ӈ㥈㠸 ҂㐥䅸֥ईᔘ 䅢⠖㍦䙈怵⡙֥⢓ㅦ⤧䙖થ҄∕㚈 ⡐ᡑ䅢䔨 ઋ䎁ֹ㌶b㕰䙨≓ѩ㜳䄳ⅈょ⠸۱ᜉડ‣ӣ֥҂⠒㠸〰ⅲ 㕩㒖㐷䘡≉㐷տ 䅢۱ु㔕㉦Վ㡷㝡֥ईᔘll Saskia de Brauw 䎁㕰⡨䆇℅㑶֥੪㦕ᤤጇҵ㦕ӱ䕙 䙥㐢 ҂䔡【चֹ䕧‫گ‬㌶㑩ሢ≱ 䆇づ䁗֤㡷㝡‫ط‬䊃ጇᥤ䈁ਘ֥ ≥㡱bぐक़⥑aぅਚ֥ᥢ㐴≶a㜵ऎℤӓaᕐ‫֥ו‬㑈䙖⁕‫ו‬ ઋ֥䌉ર֩​֩ ᔱӮ㝩㕰֥⡩䕙㠸b䒃㥖Ф㈸䅲゗֥㠸〰㈕ Ӯ㝩⡘۱䙥㐢㕇㍦㥢ջ䙂㔷ਘտ֥ਝぷ䒀֥Է䚒ਲ᜹b⁕ 䀤⎐䆇ⅲՎᡘ䈗㝩℗䙴㡩ᡈ 䈗㝩䎁㕰֥℆䈃┢ ⡃ㅖ⌀䙥 㐢ฐ䙂㍦䙖㊑҄ ᘱᙷ䎁䁗Џ䅢䄰b и䅖䊇έ⡂㔂หօ―℗䆈㑨䁈䍉֥ Saskia de Brauw ‫؟‬⢓ᥢ 䕧ْ⠢ห∲ づ㝖䆇Վ⁔֤≨ℂ䔘ትՖ‫ط‬䉷⡹৯㚇㉰䆈㑨Է 䚒b o㠉֥䆈㑨Է䚒҄‫᤹ט‬ત 㦃䕙֥㤨‫م‬ᤤᜨ⢗ᔱс䀢ᦁ 㤗֒ሥ֥㐀ℵّ‫گ‬䍨⢙‫ط‬Ӯ㦒b㐀䘡∲֥ᙩ␰∙䙩䐅ဘ䘁㠉 ӑ䍒䒃䕥䀣ᦙ ֤䆇℘㔴㢇‫ק‬थ㦃 p㕰∧㐨֡b㕰䌄䆈㑨䙥 ℱ Erik Haberfeld ᤦ䚒 Ֆ2010⢓ょ㕦㎙⁔a㐶ҟѩ㡗㦃㊗ ૭֥㠸〰䔥䕙 ≦็㡷䁂ਔ⡘㥖䚃⡹䈨ᖙ᠃⠔֥ ₂∦Ӯ㑖ѩ ጇϱb‫ط‬䒃҆䚒〰₂ 䌄ふӫ䔥㝩o㑖p ⁕䀤۷㐥ᤦӫ䔥㝩o 㠸〰pb䚒〰₂֥⠖ӫ The Accidental Fold 㜹䔈ֹّ䉈ጇ䆈 㑨Է䚒֥≦㍰ ҂づ‫ط‬䌕㕦㎙⁔֥㠸〰≨ᡸ䆈㑨℗ㅖ㐷㊗૭ ‫گ‬䕉ᥢᔵऎૅ᜹ ふ㔐䈁㕇⁣֥䑶‫ן‬㦓㖃䆙ӯ㤇癈৯ 䈰㑹

Ֆ㉖䙗㉦

ᡸӱ䕙֥䈁㜱Ҭ㆑۷㝩ጇϱӮ〰℘㌶䅢֡⥁㈢֥㌀ґb

Saskia 䚒㝩‫م‬ᡵ㢓ᙧ䚒℗ㅀ䕗c⦂ূक़čGeorges PerecĎ ֥धᕕ䄧⡈䒀 ㈵ιᡄҳ䕱䎉㐗㠸ᤤ㐀ℵੀ䘕֥ㅦ㉠b㕰⎐ 㚓〙ট䍃 ḡ 4"4,*" %& #3"68

䆇䚓䎁ሥ䆁㌶㑶۱㥈㐀≳ᡄ㠸 㦆䅳b o⁕䀤с䀢䉐䉷⠸ 㥖㈸ᝲห䕓ᅤ⡹䆇Վ䙈㖃‫׳‬ҳ㐕∲ p㕰ฌӵbℇ㐢䅢䕥㦃 㖃 䅓䌄ሢ䌑䉷ᡁb o⤙䍑 ⌀䁗⁔㥈㠸aᅡ㤨㠸〰Мᥢ֥ᠧ 㐗‫ط‬䂓 㐢䅢۱҂⎐㔅䈈֥በ㐱bऍն֥⡹ਈ䌄⁑৯⁀ऊ䊇 Վ ⡨ᠹ䅢䕩䆈㑨℗ᔱ㉦Վづրㄗ㝔⤙䍑‫ंק‬b㠉䎁έ⡂㔂 หօ֚㐢᤹⡨䁗֤㥈㠸 ⁕䀤㐢䈗㝩㠉ᕕ䒃۱በ㐱㖂㑙㡗b ‫ֹ֥≤ת‬㌶ॢ㠡䅢㠸 㠉≇≇㎙⁔䅢Ⅱ㠸〰 ₇䅢Ϝᠵ䎁㝦 ㄰㌶֥䌃㊐b ┕㐢۱㤗֒䉷㆙֥በ㐱 ⡘┢թ䎁䙂䀤‫؟‬ㄘ 䎁֥ૅৡ如奙 ᐠ㐢с䀢䅅ጃ䘳⁣‸bp ֹ䌑a㐀ℵᤤ⥁㈢ Ӯ㝩 Saskia de Brauw 䙗䁈㍹㐀ս䆇ট ₇ष㐑֥䆈㑨Է䚒֥㊈㤱ᡁ⅙䌳㔳bThe Accidental Fold ֥ጇϱ㈰㕰֤䆇㐄㤇䒃۱∴䊇㉈℆ᤤֹ䊒㚓䔥ℵ֥‫گ‬ᤦ㐒 䚒〰b㝹টс‫‸ק‬䉷ふ㕨䚒〰♠䀵૫㐕 䈗㝩㕦䉷䚒〰⡷֥ 㠸ⅡᔱФ㡗㦃Ќթ䙂b⡐ㄗ 䒃⠖⢓ㅦ⤧䙖䎁⤧‫ظ‬ጇ㍹ᥢ䕧 ْ䔧ሢ 䒃ᕉ䎄љ㍥䑂㕹֥㐀づᕕ㕰‫ط‬䂓㐢䎀䙗㈢҂ᡸ֥㍹ ⠗ᡸӱb㕰і㐓 o㠉ℇ㐢㐀䘡∲֥䅢䍀 䅓‸ት䀵۱㈸䆈㑨 Է䚒bᐠ䚃䕧䅅֥㐢 㠉‸Ֆ㉖ֹᡄҳ㐀ℵ㜃䅳㢇֥㐕㐗э ᦈb㠉᤹ㅰጕ䙗ₓ٤ӈ㦗䍦bp‫ط‬㠉ૌ ᤹㦗䍦⡹䉷⁣‸䌄㕰 ‸૫b㕰֥䉦䁸䈁䍧ᤤӦ䙂┑≳҂ᐠ㈰㠉ૌु⅘ਸ਼ো֥ૅ ৡ 䅓ջਵ㠉ૌᖙत⡘㥖ु㔕㑙㡗〶ӈ㐗㠸֥㍰ぷ⠦৯b Saskia de Brauw, The Accidental Fold, 288䅔 www.saskiadebrauw.com

65

{ S K P } 䖄Џ

䒅〰Ռ㜧 ㍖䉅 Brigitte Niedermair. 䎙㦒 Spela Lenarcic

66

{ S K P } 䖄Џ

"JARDIN D' ÉTÉ"㡴ਙ䒅䖄ሥ㤱╗ MIKIMOTO.

67

{ S K P } 䖄Џ

LIMELIGHT 㡴ਙ " ROSE PASSION "䒅䖄䙹㎘ሥ㤱╗ PIAGET.

68

{ S K P } 䖄Џ

ACTE V 㡴ਙ " THE ESCAPE"䙹㎘䒅䖄㤱╗ LOUIS VUITTON.

69

{ S K P } 䖄Џ

"MOISSON

DE PERLES"㤙䙹䒅䖄㤱╗ CHANEL.

70

{ S K P } 䖄Џ

֑Ϣ㎘㤙䙹䒅䖄㤱╗ CARTIER.

71

{ S K P } 䖄Џ

"TIFFANY

ARIA"㡴ਙ㤙䙹䒅䖄㤱╗ TIFFANY & CO.

72

{ S K P } 䖄Џ

䎙㦒䘁┠ PAULINE

MOSCONI.

ডЏ㎘䒅䖄䙹㎘‫ ᦖع‬BVLGARI. ㍖䉅䘁┠ KATRIN BACKES, GIULIO CASTELLI. 䎙㦒㚄ጀ ALEXANDRA BEDNAREK, TINA DOVJAK. ᖙ㦒 OLIVIER SCHAWALDER @ATOMO. ґ䘢 TOPOLINO @CALLISTE. ⠢ห LILY NOVA @IMG MODELS. ҃≱㍡℅ CÉDRIC- CYRIL COLONGES @QUADRIGA.

73

уЪУуАЩржЯфНГ с╕б *8"/ #""/

{ S K P } тЖЖ╫ДсазуРЧ

2016твУ 6фНЧрд╖уВС╒╢тбЖ╓е "SWITCH

HOUSE" уЭйтЪЖсХЩуЦАр╕лудЗ╒╜рлЕуСисбЖржФ

сКЙриФриЖуЭЗриЖуДИуА╢тЮА╒╢╓еревтД╡b

74

ART OF THE MUSEUM Ѱ㠸ᡆ֥䆈㑨

҂ં䎁⚆ᕙᦘ㐢ᤲ‫غ‬㦀⁢đ䅢ሢ㍸㐡ᤗն֥㦁Ѱ㠸ᡆⅩ㍡㈵ Ӗđᔱ䆇ᥓն֥ॢℵᤤό㈸֥Ⅹ䘅đ҂ᕐડ䙲䙂䆈㑨ιᤔ䒀ૌb

䘖㞕 Rob Sharp

䎁㖀㠷㐔ᤰ⡦ρ 䅢Դ্∀ᙑ⠒aі૫ん䙂㥈␢䘔㎘֥նੌㄷ㈢ጇ

ᤔ䙲᠒㉖⡠䒃㥖ऍ㦒䑂〰b o㠉㡱ᦕ䎁䆈㑨㐕∲䕙䑧ጇ⡘㥖㌷㠡

㤇䎁䅢〙Ⅹ䘅㈡䕙bϢ฿ 䒃ᔙ҂ᕕӫ֥㤇սᦈ䎙㦒Ⅹ䘅⁉䎁㖀㠷

㈸䘇䈁֥㐗㠸 ㈢ᥢ䑂㐓䎁ն䕩㐴䅑䔥䕙 p䎁ᦆ⒃ष٢֥䌧С∖

㐔ᤰ䂗ρℷऎጦ㚄䌄ㄗ㞑֥ੌ㈡䔥䕙 㤅֤㤗֤䈅䑒a฿䅩㠡ᙳ ‫ط‬

ᕉ Hirst䐑ᕕ䈱ᡵБ䕀u㞑БvčThe GuardianĎ㉦㐢㒘b

㕇䙂䅠⡆ↂਢ Ֆੌ㌶䐰ሥ֥᥄่䘥Գ抇䕙㥳ጇ䅢่​่ᡑջ ⅲ䒃

䌄Վ㙷㐀 ⚆ᕙ㍡℅Ѱ㠸ᡆ⡐ㄗ䚓ઋ䎁⠖㝩o㌈֣㖀㠷㐔p čShad

ጘ৫֥⠥֨⚅ক่​่ᙑᝩषটb

ThamesĎ֥ᠢ⒐✆㚈⁘䑄ㆉ֥䅢〙٬゗९ᘨ䕙 䒃┢㤗ᕕ㖀㠷㐔ᤰ

䒃䚔ᝄᝄ䊇ੂ䍗ᕕ㜱ष٢֥㦁ᦆ⒃ॢℵ 䔐㐢ኇ䙇ਆ䆓ੂㄈ㝇䈱Ђ

⡦ρ֥ふ㕨㞕ᦈ≱ㆉ∈㝩〘䍅bⅩ䘅㎉ Pawson 㝩䒃䚔Ѱ㠸ᡆㅀㄉ

յ䎙a㝇䕩䖖⡐֥⚆ᕙ㖀ห㤇սૅ㑨ᡆčTate Modern MuseumĎ

㤱⡐յ䎙֥㍡℅ᘦσ㍙₃ϖㄈ㊈Ϥ㝇䈱Ђ֥ᜧ䎙ញ䚒 ふ䕙Їওᕕ

֥ঔⅩ㦁ᡆ ‫ط‬㖀ห㤇սૅ㑨ᡆ㐢㈆ㆃ٠㠁ਈ䚃ն֥㤇ս䆈㑨Ѱ

䅢ጡ㝹㐈䉤֥㒈㆑⥨㠸㤖䎙㦒㠠‫⊖֥פ‬ᡆॢℵ≉㦕ᜧⅩ ⅲ⊖ᡆ䑂

㠸ᡆb䒃䅢 Switch House 㤱⡐䉰㉵㐔Ⅹ䘅㐗㡀㕦 Herzog & de

㐓ॢℵঔն䕄䌶㢓֥㊈Пbᜦᜧ䎙ᘦσᦘЇও㝩ᡆҟ䑂〰㍡৫㐸

Meuron 䖘ት㍡℅ 㐢⚆ᕙ֥䚃㦁䆈㑨ֹѓⅩ䘅a㐕∲䚃ਵ㢓֥

۱䉡⊐㦙䑂ㆉ 䆇₃⡹᠒㙷㐀㉖⡠ਆ۱䖘ี䑂ফ֥ਢ㐀䑂ㆉb㤇䉷

֒ս䆈㑨䕙㦃 ѩ҂ᕐ㡑䈨㐕∲۲ֹ֥䆈㑨ιᤔ䒀b䎁䒃䚔㦁ੌ

⊖ᡆ֥ऍ㦒Ѫৰ䔐૫Ⅹ䘅֥䀤‫؟‬䌶㐑ห䔄न㑃֞䈱ᡵᡵ℗䅲ӁЌ

ष٢ㄗ ㈀⢓㎗䍗 㙷䄰㞆䊇⚆ᕙ֥㦁ᝐ∕ᦆ⒃čNewport Street

᥷ᡕᦇ֥Ќ᥷ ѩૄ⢓‫ح‬㜱㡑䈨㔓㎗㝇㈸Ց֥䉵ग़ 䈗Վ䒃㥖ห䔄

GalleryĎᝄᝄᕕ㜱ष٢ 㙷䄰䚒㝩Ⅹ䘅㎉䚒〰֥䑂㐓ॢℵ 䒃䚔ᦆ

ⅲ֤֞Ќ☡b

⒃֥䖘㈸㐢㍸⠖䘶䖙֥䈱ᡵ䆈㑨℗ Damien Hirstb‫ط‬䎁2016⢓11

䉵㜹⚆ᕙa㡖㝖ਵ⚃۷‫؟‬㦁䆈㑨ᡆ֥䉵ग़ 䈵֒ㄗ㝔ᙇধ㐸ᔱᤲ‫غ‬

䍗 ⚆ᕙ㍡℅Ѱ㠸ᡆčLondon’s Design MuseumĎ䅓ⅲ䎁⚆ᕙ㡆ㆉ

㦀⁢iiਸ਼䅢䚔⁀ऊਔնਈ㦁Ⅹ䆈㑨ॢℵ֥በ㐱b㠨䍗 ᤲ‫غ‬㦀⁢

֥㦁ֹѓ䔥㌶षᡆb

㐱৫Ѱ㠸ᡆčHelsinki City MuseumĎ䉂টնᡕ⠢㦁Ⅹᥢ֥䕧㦁

Վ‫ى‬ष٢֥㖀หૅ㑨ᡆ㦁ᡆ㞆䊇⒐ᡆᥢᘦ ᝔㎗Ҫ 㐢䅢䚔≁䙙

ष٢ ᢒᜰਔўᢂ䆈㑨ㆉ Tori Quarters ֥㠨ᔙⅩ䘅b≉㉰ᡆ⡷ ₑ

㕱 㦓Ⅹ 䘅 ঔⅩ ᥢ҂䔶䆈㑨 〰 䑂㐓ॢℵ۷ ն 㖀 ห ૅ㑨ᡆᡆሥ

۱Ӧ≕㐒䑂ফॢℵ⡹㐈ᡄ䒀㍦ਢふ≴Ϯֹุ䄔֞䒃䚔በ㐱҂㙷

Nicholas Serota ण㐔䎁≂⢓⢓ጆ−㑃䅢℗ૂุҐ٠㐀ᦘ䔵ጇ ‸

┳㐆∖ᕉ֥䒇㐄ᙨષb

ⅲঔⅩᥢ֥㦁ᡆյ䎙Ӯo䒇㐄ّ䉈ᡵ℉䆈㑨㐴䅑֥21㐕ℒ㦁㦒

ᤲ ‫ غ‬㦀 ⁢ 㐱 ৫ Ѱ 㠸 ᡆ ֥ Վ ‫ ى‬䕧 ष ≅ 㕇 䙂 H A M ᤅ ⡂ ૅ 㑨 ᡆ

ૅ㑨ᡆpb㖀ห⊖ᡆ֥ㄗ㍦㐢䅢䚔䖙⠖ᖙᒀӌ ≅ਣ䉵㈸㉦䔦֥

čHelsinki Art MuseumĎ㈀⢓⊒䍗䕧ष玉䕙ᡵ䆈㑨℗η㝹㝹۱䑂

䈱ᡵᡵ℗նख䍉ᤤ䈱ᡵᒀ䉅䁈䍉 2000⢓षᡆ㐀䐑Ў㑃䔆䈈 ᤙ

čo㝓ㆃភᒇpĎ֥䘡㐩䆈 ֥↘҄bᜦᡆ㞆䊇⠖㝩oTennispalatsip

ґ㍸䌄〃〹㍸҂ᕐb≓⢓ট 䉰䊇ふ䙗㍦֥ऍնӮទ ⊖ᡆ䆄≨㤅

㑨ᙨᝲⅩ䘅⡷ 䚓ઋ䊇ᤲ‫غ‬㦀⁢㐱䕙㦃 䕧Ⅹញ䚒ঔ䑂ਔ㝓ㆃភᒇ

ጇ҂ऽ䕧᜗֥【㖃 ૄ⢓䍑䉷ੂϤ㝇㈸⡈⠖‫ط‬ট 㝕ₗ䌄᝔ᙦ㐀

⡷֥҆ᦆ⒃䑂㐓ॢℵ ᠐Ⅹጇ۷‫֥؟‬䑂ㆉ 䆇㉖⡠ૅ㑨ᡆ֥8000

ᕉ䙥㐢㈸㚈䎃ᔘ䆇䕅㒑㥲҂๙b‫ط‬ՎՑঔⅩ֥㦁ᡆ㠡䅶ⅲնն

䊓Ⅱᡆҟ䑂〰b

ิ㎂ҕᡄุ䄔 ѩ㈰⊖ᡆoጨ१ゕpb o䔲֤㠉ૌّ㔅֥㐢 㤇䎁䀤

ᤲ‫غ‬㦀⁢㐱⡷ふ㕨䎁Ⅹ㤱⡐ᦘЇও Amos Anderson 䆈㑨Ѱ㠸ᡆ

‫؟‬٤ӈ䉦䀔֥䆈㑨℗䁂䐄䎁‫≤ת‬a㎈Ќઅa┢䍑aК٤a㔰օ֩

䕧Ⅹ㤱⡐ 䒃┢䐑㐢㐶ҟ℗ Amos Anderson ֥㔆䐩 㤇䎁䔐Фᜧ䎙

ֹញ䚒 ฌੱֹ㒘đ䒃䄰䚑ℇᤦ┠ 䊃⡹ဘ㈸ૌյष㐴䅑a٢䄀㐕

㝩䅢ጡ⠖㝩oLasipalatsip čoѪৰភpĎ֥Ⅹ䘅 䑂㐓ॢℵⅲঔն

∲ pSerota Ҁ኉֡b

䕄䌶㢓֥ਆП ѩӮ㝩⡹᠒㉖⡠ֹ㢇ᦆ⒃䌄ᒀ䉅䍉֥䙤ᤦ㍡㎒ ℅

䈨㈸䘇⡐֥㐢 ঔⅩ䔥ᥢ֥㦁ᡆֹ֥㌶҆ᙑ䉷㑓㐥֥㤳⡉ֹϰa᝔

ᦇ䊇2018⢓䕧㦁ष٢b䚒㝩ᙇধᡵ৫ૅ㑨ᡆčFinnish National

ն֥ઋֹԳ ѩ⡹ⅲ㖀ห㤇սૅ㑨ᡆ֥䑂㐓ॢℵঔնϤᙑ䔥ੂ㎗b

GalleryĎ֥䅢҆ᙑa䘓䘇䊇֒ս䆈㑨䚒〰֥ Kiasma 㤇ս䆈㑨Ѱ

䂗䙂⚒䁀䘥֥ᥓ㝵∖ะ㎙₉‫ط‬㌶ 䕆㍦䊇খն㦁ॢℵ䕙֥ҕᡄ䒀⡹

㠸ᡆ 䆙䎁≨ᡸᜧⅩᥢ䊇2015⢓䕧षb‫ط‬ᙑљ䉰ₑ۱҂㙷䑂㐓ㆉ

᠒䎁նੌ‫֞ु҆פ‬۲ো㦁Ⅹ֥Ҕ๏aᡄ≱㕹 ѩ⡹๊㝖⚆ᕙ㈆≱ ৵

䌑䙸Ӯ֥ Alvar Aalto Ѱ㠸ᡆ 䚓ઋ䊇䒃㞆ᙇধⅩ䘅ն㎉֥⒐℗ 䅓

⁸ऎห㌀֥⚆ᕙ㎈Ќઅն∅ถ䅓⎐≖㐶䄀ָb‫ط‬Ⅹ䘅ֹ֥㢇҆ᙑ

℘㉰ਔঔⅩնफ ๙ᡸⅩ䘅ᘦσ〹б ᜦᡆふ䕙䅢ጡⅩ䘅֤䆇≉㦕

䌶㢓䐑㐢጗䉴㍡㎒ 㤇≨ᡸ㜹䔈Ќթѩ℘䆇ᜧⅩ ⎐҃䕆նᡕ⠢֥

ঔⅩѩ䊇≂⢓⢓ጆઋӮb‫ط‬䚒㝩䙥҆㞆䊇ૅᡵ֥ᠢ۴ᢂ⡂⁢≁‸

䘡䕆䆈㑨䚒〰a≉㦕ᒀ䉅٢䉈ѩ䚒㝩䄂ጇሢֹ㐈䉤b

čGuggenheim FoundationĎ֥䅢۱ᙑ䔘 ᠢ۴ᢂ⡂Ѱ㠸ᡆᤲ‫غ‬

䙦ᡄ⚆ᕙ 䌄䔥㤗㔕֥ਸ਼䅢ጡℒ⢗㦙Ⅹ䘅㐢 Damien Hirst ֥㦁ᝐ∕

㦀⁢ᙑᡆ֥㦁ᡆⅩ㍡℅ᦇ䅓䕤䊇䎁䅢〙᥇᥇ਛਛ䕙ӣήઋ‫ק‬b

ᦆ⒃ ᜦⅩ䘅䉰䈱ᡵⅩ䘅㎉ Caruso St John ㍡℅b䚒㝩㌶㐕ℒ⊒㎗

┕ Moreau Kusunoki Ⅹ䘅㐗㡀㕦䚃䕤䎁㦁ᡆ㍡℅ᘦσ䔄䁂䕙䑶

⢓սӮ⌀䘶䖙֥䈱ᡵㄗ㞑䆈㑨℗㜂ุo䈱ᡵㅥ⢓䆈㑨℗p čYoung

ᡥ ‫ط‬㦁ᡆ֥ऎุⅩ㍡㐗䅸㌷ጡ䎁ֹ֒䔑䅅֥㈵䈈䔥䕙b

British Artistsđ₇ YBAđ㕨ૌ֥䚒〰㆖ᅣ䙗ੀ㦕㞕ᦈaѩ๙ӈҐ䉤ⁱ ≉ㄗ㞑֥Է䚒ᅣਘĎ֥䅢䍀 Damien Hirst ऽӫ֒≂㐕∲䚃᜘䉷֥

㖀ห㤇սૅ㑨ᡆ www.tate.org.uk/visit/tate-modern 㦁ᝐ∕ᦆ⒃ www.newportstreetgallery.com ᤲ‫غ‬㦀⁢㐱৫Ѱ㠸ᡆ www.helsinginkaupunginmuseo.fi HAM ᤅ⡂ૅ㑨ᡆ www.hamhelsinki.fi

䆈㑨℗䔥䅢b㕨䚃ጆⅲ㞆䊇⚆ᕙ⡦҆㠓क़㔂ᤑ‫غ‬čVauxhallĎ֥䅢 ጡ٬゗৵⥐ӌᘨᜧⅩ㝩䆈㑨ញ䚒㐳b‫ط‬䎁≨ᡸնᡕ⠢֥⡷҆ᜧ䎙 䔥ᥢ 㤇䎁䉵㈸䊇Վु֥֞‸㐢䅢⥐≨ᡸյ๙aᡑ㤖኉䙲֥␦ሩ‫گ‬ 㐒ॢℵ ㌶㢇ਆҪ䔥ℵ๙ᡸ␦ն֥㜙䍁㦓䁀䘕∖ะ৵๙ ਆ⥥㐢Ϣ ㌀䘔∦᠐㄰૫ ∖ะ䐅㝩⡉∦᠐bᦆ⒃᠃㍡䉷ੂ۱⠒ਊ๙ᙨ֥䑂 ㆉ ⡐ㄗ㝩䔶䆄≨㝩䈱ᡵኔ㤶⥔ᦆ℗John Hoyland ₃ૅᡵ䆈㑨℗ Jeff Koons ईပᡸ۱䑂 2016⢓ጆ Jeff Koons ֥սі䚒aऍն֥҂ 䀓‫ۑ‬ᔘ㠸䎙㦒ゕㆃ‫ג‬㔷টՎ䑂ጇ㐀 ᦆ⒃็᝔ϖ➀֥䑂㐓ॢℵᝄ

76

㚓〙ট䍃 )&-4*/,* $*5: .64&6. ḡ ."*+" "45*,"*/&/ ḡ *8"/ #""/

{ S K P } ↆׄᠧ㐗

ᤲ ‫غ‬㦀 ⁢ 㐱৫ Ѱ 㠸 ᡆ 䔈 䀉ᥢ֥ↆׄ䔥䅢㝩䘡䕆䚒 〰 " TIME MACHINE"b㚉ᡸՎ 䘡 䕆㈰㠉ૌ䘨㔸ᡸ㝔㐀 ᡑ b䚈㚓ğ㖀 หૅ 㑨ᡆ 㦁 ᡆ " SWITCH HOUS E " ⡷҆㝩 ⁉⤒㚘Ⅹ᠐‫ط‬Ӯ֥ॢℵb

{ S K P } ┳㐆ጦӵ

Է䈁䙥ℱ PH O EB E ⅲ۱㈸Է䈁㐴∀䘇 ㉰ 〰 ⥑㞕ᦈ a㐀䘡 ᙨ ᝲ ⡢䕄≦〰ᒃ₃S┕㦁䙥 ֥҆ॢℵ㍡℅b䉹䅔ğ㞆 䊇S┕㐱䕙㦃 VIVIENNE ∕ ㌶֥〰⥑䙥҆ CÉLINE " ն 䐩"⡷֥䘡䀉䌳㔳₇㝩㕰 ֥≦㍰ӯ㤇b CÉLI N E PHILO

㔅ਞ㥔䈵

Ֆ٤ُ֥㐀䘡㡴ਙ䌄〰㞆сС֥⦁㐩đ֞〰⥑䀧㐗䕙֥ ㈆ㆃᦈᙨᝲđCÉLINE 〰⥑䈹䎙ጇਔ䅢۱₂८᜹aӦ㞙䌄 Ֆ㉖䊇䅢㍦a⁸ऎя㐅ᕃ䌄㡑䈨৯֥㐀䘡㐕∲b

㚓〙ট䍃 ḡ %"7*% 4-*.

ਊ‑ ㌀ ᤤ ฿ ড ㌀㝩 16 / 17 ㆀᔕ㡴ਙ֥ ᤢ㦃㌀‫ ט‬b㢇 㚓ğCÉLINE 㞆䊇S┕㦁䙥҆ ֥㜱ᡄ㐢17 㐕ℒ֥ᡨ䙴䐩 䥷đ⡷҆䐅㐢䂒 䀵〰⥑ ≦ 〰ᒃ≦㍰֥䑁㦁㍡℅b

䙗 P h o e b e P h i l o䊇 2 0 0 8⢓ 䔱 䑕 〰 ⥑䆇 ট 㝦 ㈳ 䙂 䉰 㕰 Է 䎙 ֥oCé l i n e ⤧ 㐔pčCé l i n e wo m a nĎᜨ ⢗ ซં䔥 ㍸䅢䔨҂ ध䊇‫ع‬b㈢‫ط‬䔐㉦ Philo Ч㈸䎁㕰−㑃֥㝩㑶҂‫֥؟‬٠ซ 䔥䅢 č2014⢓䎁⚆ᕙ―℗∙㉈䈙ু๏ईပ֥ Vogue Festival ㌶֥ ពष٠㠁Ď䕙ิ֥֞ğCéline ѩ٤≇≇㐗ᡁጤ䎁㍦㌶֥ᚑ䘡 ‫ط‬ 䒃䆙㐢㉁ᤥ䅢㞆ᑷ㦒֥ Céline 䉐瑇Ֆ䅢ष㐑ьਔ∧֥㐗㐄b 䎁 Vogue Festival ㌶֥ⅹᦉ䕙 Phoebe Philo ⅲ Céline б䚒o䅢 ۱᠃㙷ุa䅢ᔙ኉ડ҂㙷ᘨℵ֥նᘨ䙖pb䒃䕥䔈ุ䈁㐅ӑ䍒ਔֆ Ղิបэᝰ㦙⤧䘡֥㦕㝩 ‫ط‬㐢ⅲधᕕ֥≦〰㍐ᦃa㑓㐥䌄䕐′㉔ 䊇䅢♆bPhoebe Philo ⅲ Céline ᠐ⅩӮ䅢۱ऎ䉷᝔ᕃઆ₀㦙䊃 ⁸᜘㡑䈨৯֥㐕∲ 䎁䒃┢ 䅢ㅉᔱ㐢䉷䈁䈄֥ğᚑ䘡䌄⦁㐩Ч㍦ 䙗҂с㒘 ᦘ䉷㕩ૌӯ㤇䎁ᡒᝡ䀸ጦ䔥䕙֥ᘦ㐒 䉩ふ㐢ⅲↆׄ₂ 䕙䎁Ӂ〰䌄ॢℵaᦖ≴₃ᕕ㤶䔥ℵห㑉ᡁ㡴㌶֥䈹㥃ᘦ㐒b

ᔵ㑰䅢䕇 䎁䒃۱㜹䔈֥ Céline 䌇䖁䕙䚒㝩ᙨ㤵ѓթ䎁֥ 㐢ふ㞆䊇 ┕ ֥䙥҆b䒃 㐢䅢Դ㞆䊇 ┕ֻᖗㆉa㍧ंበ㐱┳㐆ᤢ㦃ֹջ֥ 17㐕ℒⅩ䘅 㕩≨ᡸ䀉‫گ‬ᥢ֥昃ৡᙨષ 䌄❦โն֡čAvenue 䍧ᢑਔն ਈ䌄ふ㈆ ㆃ۲ֹ䘓છᒃ㤗ᥣ䈵֥Ⅹ 䘅 䌄䘡㐩㡷∙ ্ ∀ᙑ⠒֥Ⅹ 䘅㜱ᡄaᜲ⊂ⅉ∥֥㤖่a䆇 ₃䚒㝩〰⥑ ห䔄㠡ጡ ҂䎁֥ն┠㎘䑂㐓֫䌄ₑᤥ᜹o㤙⡉〧ᦁpϮ֥䆈㑨ն┠㎘ֹ ϰbPhoebe Philo 䌄օચ䆈㑨℗ℷ㍡℅㎉ FOS ᤦ䚒յ䎙֥䅢㡴

80

㚓〙ট䍃 ϱ㈃㕦䉷

MontaigneĎ֥昑⡐ᚒᦃ䉷䈁ㆉ᝵षটb䒃ᔙ Célineoն䐩p

{ S K P } ┳㐆ጦӵ

ਙ ℗ ऎ ҂≇ 䉤 䊇 䒃 ᔙ C é l i n eo ն 䐩 p 䆙 㙷 ҄⅘䊇 㐕 ∲ ۲ֹ ֥ Céline 䘓છᒃ ふ䕙Їও䔗㦓‫֧ז‬a䑰⠒ઋֹ֧aੀ㤖㦓㌈ᖙa 䆇₃䉤䊇䑂㐓䖄Џ㡴ਙ֥ѪৰገԳb䆙䉷նਈ FOS ᔵ℗յ䎙֥ ℗ऎ㦁〰ⅲ㉰䖘К≤ SKP ㈆㦁䘡䀉֥䘓છᒃ 䒃㐢㐸℗Ґ䉤䚃㦁 〰⥑ᒃけ㍡℅ᙨᝲ֥oᒃ䕙ᒃp čstore-in-storeĎbᒃけ䘡㐩䌳㔳 Їᢑ㈆ㆃᔵ䅢㠡ᖗ֥ն┠㎘㞗┠ֹ૫䌄≦㦃็䁂֥Џᡨ㎘ᅣ ‫ط‬ ᒃけ㜱ᡄ䐅㐢䕙ᡵ㐸㆓䅢䔵֥⚀㎘ᙨᝲ ᦘ䉷䘓㝩ገԳӧ㍡หљ ㍡℅֥䑂㐓㕹b 䂓䔥 䒃㐢䅢۱䘓㝩ᒃ⡷ᙨᝲⅉじ䊃҂㎐ᔵห֥ ᚑ䘡㕦㍡℅֥㜹ૅ䑂㐓ॢℵb

㍐ᦃุ䄔 Philo ᦘซ֞㕰㤨๙ᡸ㍡℅ጦղጇ֥৯ਈ᜹䌄䅢䕅㦙bCéline ֥ ᚑ䘡䕅৯䊇㈰⤧㦙᜹त㑓㐥ૅᤔ ѩ㈰䒃䕥ૅᤔ᜹त≨㑃䘆㐀ᡑ ֥ॉ䄔b䔐䈗㉦Վ 䌄ふ㕨㐀䘡〰⥑ն҂㤗㙷֥㐢 䀤‫؟‬ѓ䕁㦙֥ ㍡℅‸䅢ₗₗّ‫گ‬ጇ㤇bᠨग़⎐䌄㕰ૌ֥ₑᤥ䌳㔳 Luggageo㥓 ╖Їpᤤ㉠㉲】䕓ㅦь֥ Ballerina ㉲ָ㥙䔥ℵⅩ৫ょ␠䍒≨⢓ ֥≅➅ᡁ㡴 ҂≇䈗㝩㕩ૌ䚑ញ≦ਅaት⊐⡤䉤 ᦘ䈗㝩㕰ૌૄ䅢 ₗᔱ⡹ु֞㦁֥␧㐒⎐ប็䁂 䒃⌀㤴㐢ገ䕙䅩㠸㕇ₗ∙э 䎙 㦒䌄㌀ґ ᐠ㙷㐀䉡䍅㝱ት䙂۱㦙㎗䙲֥㍲ૅ〰㞆b㙷䄰ㆉљ䊇䀤 ‫؟‬㍐ኃ〰⥑֥ ᦘ䉷 Céline 㢕㍆⁑䍓䊇㤖㌶〶㕹 ‫ط‬㐢۷䘇䕧ㅖ㍦ ᠑㠸ุ䄔 䎁थ‫ק‬᠑ઙ䔥ㄗ ۲␧ᚑ䘡ӧਙ䄀ㄗ ⎐ប㐵ጤ᜹㑃 䒃 䔐㐢㜹䔈᜹䔡㐕∲䕙֥䅢ᦖb䔐䈗 Phoebe Philo 䎁㕰֥㍡℅䕙 ㅨ䘇ਔ㉦Վ‫֥؟‬㔅㤨䌄ㅴ᜹ 㕰ᅤ‸づ㝖ᠨग़䎁᠑ઙֆ〰䔥ㄗ ⎐ 䆇䌄㕩ૌӁ㍹ㅖ➅᥸ᔘ 㡷㡷⅃㐴ふ≦䕅ញ䆈 ّ‫ุگ‬䄔䕓᜹b䎁 㝓✂᠑㠸䌄␥㐀㌷ն㦕ふ֥֡֒≂㐕∲ ҂‐҂ફ֥Ֆ㉖᜹㑃ℇ ☕㈸䄀ㄗ䅢ਊ 䊃☕㈸П᜹ν㦃b

⁑㌀㍹㤠 ν㦃֥᜹तᦘ ট䙗䊇䌄 Céline ᚑ䘡 䔥ℵ≓ᥤ⁨‫ڑ‬㤗ㅖ֥ㅖ➅ ᡁ㡴bPhilo 䙥㐢⠒㈘і㐓 㕰㕦㞈֥o⤧㈸㞁pѩ٤ព㈢֥㦙᜹ 䊂㈸a㍴⁕㐢o㦙癈৯p֥սі 㕰֥ᚑ䘡㐢䅅䎁≖㤅玖玖ᙨᕃ ֥㙷㐀☕㈸᜹֞㑓㐥 䆇㉠ૅ֥焆炒Їᡷ㆒ุ ⁕۷䔨−ֹ㐈䉤 ҂ӈ⅘֥ক㦓b҂ં㐢ⅲ㉦‑䉴Ϯ㡷⢈㉠㉲֥】ᝰ䉤䎁ᚑ䘡⁕ ⦁㐩㌶ ᦘ㐢ᕕሥર㉗aጂᕑ⁕㈸䎙ર】ጇふ҂䈁֥㐈䉤 䅢㉦ Ч ₗ㡴ਙ䕙䈨㈸䖖⡐֥‑㌀㉠૫㈠䘡 ૫ਘ䌄ᅣ䕓ᔱ㐢۱䕙䒇 㕉b2016/2017ㆀᔕ㡴ਙ֥≦㍰ห䕓㐢䉧㤁䙗䎁 ๙ᡸ㔘㊑֥ҪՑ ጦղጇ䅢䕥㉦ੀ㒑Ϯ㒖ሰ֥䉦䁸 ѩ䆇ֆ〙⁕≶૫a৫ᘦุ⁕Џ㎘ ֩ⅉ∥֥䖄Џ℘䆇㚒ጇb䉤㌀䐅䆇㉠ᤤ㌀‫ט‬₃⠒ਊ֥ㄠ‑䌄ᐢড ⁉ձ㐈䉤 ջটₑᙑ㢉㉈⤨䄥䑰㉰ᔕ㉈䔥᜹b⦁㐩ᘦ૫ ๙ᡸ㎃ջ 䌄Їտ㐷ѣ ᥣ䈵ਔᚑ䘡ᘦ૫㠡⌃㠡㑱֥ক㦓䌄坖ব֥焆炒 ‫≓ط‬ ᥤ㐄䉤䖘䈄ᙨᝲ֥〶ָਂ㥙䌄␧㐒ⅉֆ֥ㅦь㠱㥙 䐅㝩ն҄ੀ 㦆ጤᡸ䒃㕦oն䐩p֥۲۱ᘨℵaℑ‫ط‬䙨㤵նㄈ㐕∲֥oCéline ⤧ 㐔p〶เਔ䅢ᙘ㖀㈢䙗㉹֥㊂㜔b Céline 㞆䊇К≤ SKP ֥䘓છᒃ䆄㎅նष⡆bဒ㕇䘓છᒃष䅖֥ᦘ䉷 9䍗9㉈䕄16㉈㞆䊇䅢ੌ䕙๖֥หљ䑂㐓⁑ᔘb www.celine.com

䘖㞕 Nathalie Fraser

82

CÉLINE "ն䐩 " 㙷㐀䚓䉐ᠢᑷ֥ゕ⥔ੌะᤤ㤇ս֥㐳

⡷㍡℅b䉹䅔ğ҂㙷૫ਘ֥䕓᜹䎁 PHOEBE 䑕֥㐀䘡㡴ਙ䕙㐢ᡁ⅙䌳㔳b

PHILO 䔱

㚓〙ট䍃 ϱ㈃㕦䉷

{ S K P } 㐀㌷㈸㠸

⠦‫م‬㍖䉅㎉ ㍖䉅 Melvin Sokolsky. 䘖㞕 Patrick Remy

Ч䘓ี⡷㕦䉷㚓〙ট䍃 $0635&4: 0' 888 40,0-4,: $0.

MELVIN SOKOLSKY ₇ь㢕㝩ն䕩㕦䔡 㕨֥⠦ ᙨᝲ ᤤૅ⠃䚒〰㈕㍧ख़ֹ䉅㤩䙂䅢䕩㐀㌷㍖䉅ն㎉bSKP 䍴䕁ջਵ⤉ 䅢ょ ᠨ䒃㞆ᙨ㤵ѓ㐒㍖䉅㎉֥䆈㑨䚒〰b

84

䊇1963⢓㍖䊇S┕֥ "BUBBLE" 㡴ਙ㐢 SOKOLSKY 㝩ૅᡵ ϱ HARPER'S BAZAAR ⥉㍖֥䚒 〰b䍅䎁 PHOTOSHOP ֩䘓䅖䀉 㚓㉲Ⅱ䔥ㄗ 䒃䙸䅢⠔≥ ㈸֥ն〙₇䑂㤇ጇ☕㈸≥䄃 ֥㐴तุ䄔b

{ S K P } 㐀㌷㈸㠸

MELVIN SOKOLSKY 㝩㍖䉅䚒〰หљյ䎙䘓㑧֥֡ऎ҃≱đ২㉦ " BUBBLE"㡴ਙ䕙䆇‫ז‬Ӛ䀹‫ז‬ 䙂֥ऍն㔷ਘㆃčЧ䅔Ď䆇₃"THE DREAM"┢֥ӑն㦒℗ऎč䚈䅔Ďb

87

{ S K P } 㐀䘡

㍖䊇1965⢓֥ "FLY "㡴ਙ֥䚒〰䔥䅢b

00

{ S K P } 㐀㌷㈸㠸

o㠉䐑≨੬ՑФ㠁֞㐢ᙸ㤗㦄m㍖㤴㄂㔕ㅓ㆖㕨㈸ਲ⁇n֥㒘‫م‬b㠉㍧ 㦄 ㍖䉅㐢㍖䉅䒀ᤤФ㍖䒀䎁⠸۱ॢℵ┢֥ㄘᕕᦉb䎁䒃۱ॢℵ┢ 㒈 ᘦ䎁䌙ᖙㄲਛ֥㦄ঠᕃᤤㅖ➅᜹䔥㢇 ≉㦕䙂⠸䕥Ӧ⠱䔥㠱b㠉ૌ᥸㐴 䙂ᕕᘦ 奴㤨䙂ᕕᘦ ㈢‫ط‬䒃㥖ૅ❱䕤⊆䔸‸䎁䑰〙┢Ӯ㝩ૅৡ如奙 䉡 㠡Ӯ䒇֥⎐⡹bᦉ㕅㉦Վ 䚃ᥢᦘ㐢䉰ᡄ䒀थ‫ק‬㍖䉅䒀ᤤФ㍖䒀㐢ᙸӑ 䍒ਔㅖ➅ᡁ㡴bp2000⢓ Melvin Sokolsky 䙗㑩䊇✀㌗暐 Melvin Sokolsky 㐢ᤥᘦ㍰㎈Ĥ䒃۱⠖䙙ᕕ䊇㑶ս㈸ট㒘⁕䀤ぃ㝩⠵㍹ ᐠ㐢䒃⠖1933⢓ጇ㍹䊇⤙䍑֥㍖䉅㎉᤹䎔ь瑰㍦㐀㌷㍖䉅ն㎉䔥ਙb ֒㐀⢓≇21㕑֥ Melvin Sokolsky 䎁䆈㑨䙥ℱ Henry Wolf ֥৯䄲䔥㢇 ≉ ㉰ Harper’s Bazaar ញ䚒bᕕՎ Sokolsky 㒘 o䒃㐢㠉䒃䅢㍹䕙䚃䕧䅅֥ 㐀ख़b㠉ᝄ≉㉰ Bazaar ֥㐀ᥡ Wolf ᝡ㕀㠉⎐䆇㕇㦃㕦䌠b㕨㒘 m㠉ᠰ 䉤⢆ѩ٤㐢ট䂒䀵㠉֥㤨‫ م‬㠉ᠰ䉤⢆㐢䈗㝩ु䕧⢆֥Է䈁bnp䌄㕨᠃ 㐗֥ᦘ䉷㐀㌷㍖䉅ᑷᘙ Richard Avedon ֩㈸b㕨֥㍖䉅ᙨᝲ䆇❱≴䖙 ӫ ふ䖘䅅ਲ᜹ট䍃㝩䎔㕨㑶㎗⢓ㄗ喀ょ֥ӑ㤇㐄䖘䈄䆈㑨℗b o㠉䙥㐢䎁Ե㚈٢䙂г℆Ч ℆♙⡘㥖䎁ㅰӤန❱န㦖䔥ℵ❱֥֞a Վ㍹Ֆ㝹㈀ᡸ⁕⅘ᡸֹ֥ᘦᤤ㐕∲b㒈䄀ᤦ䙂 㠉㎙ょгਓਓҤҤֹϜ ❱≴㥧䎁Ч䙖┢ ㈢ᥢℑ䀵㉰㒒 pSokolsky 䐑≨㉦Վ∧㐨֡b䎁㔦㕤䈨 ㅱ㌶⅙㉰ Sokolsky ֥⠖䙙 㕨䚃䖙⠖֥oParis 1963p č䆙⠖oBubblepĎ 㐀䘡ն〙㡴ਙ㚓㤴৫ख़ӯ㤇䄀ㄗb1963⢓ 㕨ㅖᜇ ┕ҕ℘᝔‫ק‬㐀䘡 䕱 ѩㅑ䄲ㅶ⤧㦆⠖⠢ Dorothea McGowan ᤦ䚒b㕨䉤‫ז‬Ӛᤤ䈩㦓 ‫ז‬㤖ⅲ䘡䎁ऍն㔷ਘㆃ┢֥⠢ห䀹ᠵॢ䕙֥䒃䙸ն〙Ф़֨䎁֒⢓ ֥ Harper’s Bazaar 䍴䕁┢bӯ㤇ጇ䅢۱☕㈸҂⎐㔅䈈֥㐴त㥔ᡶb o㠉㉂䒇 㤨ਔ䎁 Bazaar 䒃㠨⢓䆇ট֥ញ䚒 㢇‫ק‬थ㦃㤨䅅㚇㉰۷ ‫؟‬㐀ℵটฐ㕤ふ㕩ֆՂ֥䖘ีbՖ‫ط‬䍅┘䍴䕁ն〙Ֆᜨ⢗ิσष㐑 ⌀с䀢≨ᡸᙒَ‫گ‬䍴֥㥠䚒ੀӱ 䆇₃䌄䅢䕩ញ䚒㈸䍀≉㦕َ㕣֥ ᠆๙㥠‫ט‬b㠉㤨ฐ䁗㐷㐡ᕕ䕆㍦ⅉֆМ≱㢇֥⠢ห֥㦃┠䘥㖃䉷ᤥ 䉅㤩 䆇₃㕩㉦ᤥФ䤇㐨㝩䅢䕥䌄㠉ふ㕨۷㝩‫گ‬䍴֥ᜨ⢗㙷䄰䉷㆙ ֥۱㈸ѓ䕁b㠉Ֆট㠡‫ַم‬䌘⡘㥖⡹᠒䐉≉⁕ᜧэ㚓㤴㜱ᡄ֥㦁ញ ऎ⁕㦁㤨‫م‬ջট֥䊂⁖b㠉㤨ጇ䅢䕥۱㈸ӫ 䔥㝩o⅒㔴㌢ᡑp֥ᘦ ‫ م‬㍡℅ਔ䅢۱৵−䎁ᡑ㤖䌄㌢ᡑ䙸Ⅱ䔥ℵ֥ऊᡑゔ ѩⅲ㌢ᡑ㔴ᕃ ↂ֮䕄1/15⠀b∦ᡶ㐢 ⠢ห֥㐷㐡ᤤᔘ䚒नФ⠢ᥲਔ ‫ط‬㚓〙֥ふ䊓 ҆ᙑ䐅㤗֒ㅰ㡉b䒃䕥㚓〙ु㌶㈀ᤤ䎁㉈ᡑ㢇䆇֮㔴␥❢⥉㍖֥㚓 㤴㎗ᙑ҂㙷b㠉ᕕ∦ᡶ᤹ડ䈁 㐷㐡㙷㐀і㤇ጇ⠢ห₃ふ㕦ጤᚑ䘡֥ ㍡℅㎉֥≦㍰b ┕㡴ਙ֥ㄗန҆ᙑ䎁䉅⦒⥉㍖‫ط‬Ӯ ᥢန҆ᙑ䐅㐢 ㈰ Dorotheao٦p䎁 ┕㌶ॢ⥉㍖㜹Ӯbp 䚒〰⥉㍖ֹׄЇও᥄␠㊆⡠ᤰ֥㦁ㄸㄗ⁕㐢 ┕ੂ㎗⢓ս֥㑵⠆∕ 㚈b㑶⢓ㄗ 㕨䆇㝹ট䖘䈄ᙨᝲⅩ䘅䚒㝩ሢ≱⥉㍖ਔ䅢䙸ն〙b㈢‫ ط‬䘕 䄀ℵ 㑶✆॓ₕ䔱䑕䅢ㅉ 㠉ૌ䆄䍅┘⡘۱㐷ញↀ䆈≦㍰䖘䍸֥㐀սb 1965⢓ 㕨䕧 ┕≉㦕⥉㍖bᐠ䒃䅢 đ҂≇ી䉷㔷ਘㆃđ⠢ห䅓 ᜧ䉰 Simone d’Aillancourt ք㉁b⥉㍖㆖≱㎗ᙑ‫؟‬䌳 Ֆ᝔䁸Ҕ๏a ઔ㡶㜂㤶㈡č䈁䎁㤵 Richard Avedon 䕅≵ĤĎ֞ ┕ᔵห֥㠠‫פ‬ ≱䕅⁕㐢‫م‬㐒በ့֥ゕ⥔ੌะđᔱӮ㝩㕨≶㚈㢇֥ሢ≱b⁸䉷∅䄩 ֥ Sokolsky 㐢ᠢᑷ⁃ᦆ֥ιᤔ䒀b㠉ૌ䎁㕨֥䚒〰䕙⎐ᖙ㤇ふ㑃֞ 䄠cُcηक़čJan Van EyckĎa ‫غ‬ᑦ㔂čBalthusĎa㡖અ⢄⡓㔂c Ѱ㔂čHieronymus Bosch ֩⁃ᦆն㎉ᤤ‫؟‬㞆ӑ㤇㐄䖘䈄ᦆ℗֥䉅 㤩đふ䕙б০㐀ӑ㤇㐄䖘䈄ᦆ℗Ќઅc֣‫غ‬㠓čPaul Delvaux ᤤূ ⢄cઔᝲ০หčRene MagritteĎᕕ㕨֥䉅㤩䉩㝩㍧䍅bSokolsky ☕ ㈸⡨㝗֥䚒〰oThe Dreamp䕙䔐aّ૫֥‫׀‬ᜉ䉵㡶đᦆ૫䕙⠢หጤ 㕠䊇ऍն䘷䆁ᤤӑն㦒ᦁҤ㑆ᡶ䔥ℵđ䆇₃Գ⡷䌄Գ㜱䔥ᡑᠹ♠┘

89

{ S K P } 㐀䘡

" THE

DREAM "㡴ਙ䕙ᦆ૫䕙 ӑ 㤇 㐄 ֥ऍ ն㒑 ᡶ ֡ ऎ ᤤ֒⢓᜸ӑӖੀㄗ䂗֥ㄗ 㞑ૅ㉖ն〙č䉹䅔Ďb

00

{ S K P } 㐀㌷㈸㠸

91

{ S K P } 㐀㌷㈸㠸

92

SOKOLSKY ֥䌘䉤⠢ห SIMONE 䊇ૅ

ᡵϱ HARPER'S BAZAAR ֥⠸䙸ն〙 ┢ᦈ㍦㝩㈸⥁㡶䖘∀b䚈䅔䐅㐢 㕨䆇ᥕՀ㝩䖘ี֥≨ᑷ䚒〰b

{ S K P } 㐀㌷㈸㠸

֥≱㤶ᕕбđᔱ㐢㤵㌶㑩ᦆ℗і㐓≵䈁b oThe Dreamp֥䉅㤴㝩㑶 ۱ᦆ૫֥₂ᤦb䕆䊇≶㚈ㄗ֥҃≱䆇֩㍦б২᠐Ӯ ふ㚇㍗䎁ֹ૫㌶ ≶䙖┢֥֚䉅䈗Վ䕡䊇㠉㕦䌧づ֥ᦆ૫ӯ㤇b⅕䊇䙗㈢ᤤᡑ㤖֥䈗 㔳 Վ䙸ն〙⠢ห Annie Morton ₑᥤᔱ㐢ㅖ䙗㉰≶b䑰〙⡷֥฿ॢ 䌳㔳䐅㐢≨ᡸ‫ט‬䔈б䕧ᤤ㚉㐴㥔ᡶ֥䈵䉤b҃≱㈆㑶䆇ㅦ䉄ѩ䆐䊇 ґ⁃֥⥴⠲㔷ਘյ䎙‫ط‬ӮbձⅩᤤҷጔ҃≱㕦䀙֥⁸ᕇ㐀ℵ䌄⡉Ⅹ ҃≱㤗бđ۷㐢⊒⤖䅢રbp Melvin Sokolsky ᤤ➀怡c‫م‬અčMia FarrowĎaη‫غ‬ৡcચᠢύčAli MacGrawĎaա⁴ Twiggy aJean ShrimptonaLisa Fonssagrivesa S u z y P a r k e raস ⚆c⁗ ᕠ L a u r e n H u t t o n a⡙ ύ ➀cि Н ‫غ‬ N a o m i C a m p b e l l ֩ ӑ ⠢ ᤦ 䚒 䅓 䌄ղ 㔂 ๒c⁗ ᙹ ણčD u s t i n HoffmanĎa⡙㕱০c㠲֣čNatalie WoodĎaJayne MansfieldaJulie Ch ri s t i eaLi v U l m a m ֩ 䔡 ⠖䄂䍀 ᠃ 㐗 અѵ หc㜨 ᝲ⡠čRo b e r t WagnerĎaঘ剠‫ظ‬c創䔖čRaquel WelchĎaઅџc㝙৷⡂㔂čRobin WilliamsĎa䒅⢀หc০čJanet LeighĎaⅉcᘦղčJane FondaĎa Peter Ustinovaϐϐঘc㐆է㌕čBarbra StreisandĎaChet Baker ֩㈸䆙 㝩㕨֥ᤦ䚒ᕕ㤶b Sokolsk y ѓ䕁䙂ば㎗⢓ս⡘۱ૅᡵ䍴䕁ն㦕ふ֥֡㐀ս ふ䕙⠸㥖 䍴䕁ᦘ㈰㠉ૌᦒА䙂❱㤨坙块 ਸ਼㜱㉦ EsquireaMcCall’saShow ֩ ‥‘䅢㐀֥䍴䕁䐅Ф㐀ℵᤤૂุЕ䐥֥ᥒੀ㕦㜉㐤b㐀㌷䍴䕁֥‑ ≁㐀づ䖑Ⅶ䙨㢇ぁ 䅢䕩‫ץץ‬ն⠖֥䆈㑨䙥ℱФធㅶՊ㜈 ᡒᝡ䖘Ӯ 㝩Ӂ䅖 㦁֒㈃䒀b䉷ᤥ㕦㞈ĤSokolsk y 䉐䉷᝔ӑ֥㍖䉅ₕㅂaℨ䌩 MELVIN SOKOLSKY 䊇⥉㍖㤇ሢ䌄⠢ห֥ᤦ䑰b 䉹䅔ğ㕨֥㍖䉅䚒〰䙥㐢ջ䉷ӑ㤇㐄䖘䈄֥㤶䔄䈁䍰b

ᡑ㤖֥٤ُ⡹৯ 䊇1969⢓䘕㤵ᖙ䑂㕩䅖 Ӯ㝩ᒀ㐴ᡒᝡ㐴〨ն〙֥ ֝䄂ℷ㍖㤴㎉bՎ㐀 䔐㐢ᒀ㐴‑≁㐀սょ٦䔥℉b㕨յ䎙ਔ䅢‫‥ى‬ ‘㐗䅖 ⁔֤Їও26䚔 Clio ᡵ℉ᡒᝡⅸ䎁⡷֥㠡㑶նⅸ 䅓䉃֤䅖 ∲֥䎅䄠₃ᤙґb㕨㝩ૅᡵ۲ն䔡⠖ӌ⥑⥉㍖ਔई㐕㞖⠖֥≨ᑷᡒ ᝡ ২㉦ American AirlinesaAT&TaChrysler MotorsaCoca Colaa Dr PepperaLevi’saPepsiaColaaPolaroidaRevlonaT WA United Airlines ᤤVolkswagenb1975⢓ 㕨┘ष‫ת‬ρㄗ㝔ᒀ䉅䔥ᔱ✀㌗暐ℑ 䀵ᖙᡑᖙ㈵bጔਔ㍆㑶ₑ䙸㐀㌷ն〙䔥㜱 Sokolsky 䎔䆄ⅲ㍖䉅㐗䅖 ⥨䖉㍦ᥢb䔨֞1991⢓ 㕨֥⠖䙙Ф䆈㑨㐆䁈℗ Martin Harrisson 䎁 㐀㌷㍖䉅≨ᑷ⠖䖙 Apparences 䕙䎀ᕃิょbHarrisson 䊇㑖䕙䅓ิ ₃⤙䍑⥔㍖䉅ն㎉ Saul LeiteraBob ᤤ Terry Richardson ᜕䙖֖ᤤ 㝔ᥢӮ㝩⠖֥֝ Jerry Shatzbergb oੂ㎗⢓ս䌄 Harper’s Bazaar ᤦ 䚒֥㕦䉷㍖䉅㎉䕙 Melvin Sokolsk y ֥䚒〰Ӵ⡨ⅲ䔥ᙑোb㕨֥㍖ 䉅ᙨ ᝲ≦ґ‫؟‬э 䆇҂㍴ょ䄀֥ᚑ㐩䚒㝩⥉㍖䖘ุ‫ط‬㤰䌣۲∲b㕨 䌶Ч䆇㝩㐗䅖ⅲ䈗Վ㑃֞䉅㤩‫ط‬䕙ᕐ 䈗㝩ↈᜓ䊇㕨֥䙥㐢⡘㥖҂ 㖂䉷㆙֥ᚑ㐩bSokolsky 䔹䎁㠡㐴⡘㥖䅩ᚑ֥թ䎁‫ط‬㜹Ӯ䚒〰ll pMartin Harrisson ㉦Վ㥧֡b∰䉰䅢䔒Ֆ㝹㤵㐕㈸っᡑਊ㤗֥ґ㌀ 䚒〰ᤤЇওਆᚆoBubblesp㡴ਙ䎁⡷֥ੂᚆ䑰〙 ጦぷ㍖䉅㎉䕧 ㍖ 䉅∲ 䅓♠䀵㑃䄲⥉㍖ਔₑ䙸㐀䘡ն〙bᐠ㑶✆॓ₕ㆖ս㐷ញↀ䆈 㕨 ⠦‫م‬ဣ㢇֥⠦৯䆄㥄㐠b䎁㉦Վᔗ֤ѽ䘴㐀ս≦㍰ᤤੂば㎗⢓ս֥ 㐀㌷䔥ᥢ 㕨֥ն։ᡶᝁ䆄҂㉦䆇㝔b2001⢓ Harpers ֥䖘䅅⊁䔆ᕕ 㐷i iૅᡵϱ Vogue 䄲ㅶ㥑㤴㍖䉅㎉ Annie Leibovitz ⅲ䔡⠖䄂䍀 Чc㔂ᑦীčBen StillerĎ䘡≉ऍն㔷ਘㆃ⡷ 䎁㊆⡠ᤰ⥠⥉㍖䑰〙b䅢 䕩㦁㍹ս㐀㌷㍖䉅㎉a㐀䘡㍡℅㎉ᤤ⠢ห㦐ょጦӵ Ӂ䅖㕅䆄䘕㦒㈕䙥 㐢ᔗ֤㤵⡘㥖䎁㐀㌷㍖䉅∲㑳ょ┢ӱЗ֥䕧䅅㈸㠸䕅䈁b www.sokolsky.com Melvin Sokolsky, Seeing Fashion. Ed Arena (2000)đ䆄धϱb

㢇㚓 㐀㌷㐆䁈 ℗ O L I V I E R SAILLARD 䌄 TILDA SWINTON 䊇 ញ䚒㤇ሢbᕕㄗ䒀‫ط‬䂓 Վ ҆䚒〰֥ᤢ㦃┠ ⢗㐢ѽ䘴 ㍦ጤ┳㐆 ᚑ㐩㐀 ੀ♓ጇ֥ ㅴ䀴᜹ᔘb

WARDROBE MEMORIES 䅩ገ℆䈃

OLIVIER SAILLARD 䌄 TILDA SWINTON 䒃ᕕ ❱ ձ֖๙ᡸᝄᝄጇϱ֥㊈ज፧㑖 ㅷ䘈ᖗ㈸⁸᜘ Է䈁֥㐀䘡і䄂ᤦ䚒જ㉰ֻ㔓۱⢓㚈 ѩ㕇䔥䀸҃ ਔ㢇䅢۱ᤦ䚒℅ᦇ 㕨ૌⅲ䊇≂⢓ㆀ฿㥢⒐⥑⤧㦆 CHARLOTTE RAMPLING ᠃㙷䎁Q┕ջট䅢ሢ㈆ 㦁ᜨ⢗֥㐀䘡㍖䉅і䄂b 䘖㞕 Elisabeta Tudor

㚓〙ট䍃 ϱ㈃㕦䉷 ḡ 36&%*(&3 (-"5; ,"5&3*/" +&## "653& $06563& 3*;;0-* /:

{ S K P } ↆׄᠧ㐗

97

{ S K P } ↆׄᠧ㐗

Olivier Saillard 㐢䅢㞆ᅤᦃ᥄䈆֥‫؟‬૫㐷 ҂≇㐢 ┕㐀㌷Ѱ㠸ᡆčPalais GallieraĎᡆሥaҦ䑂㈸a䚒℗a㎔㈸ll㍴䕄䎁֖づ䍥䀤֥ㅴঃ㢇 ⥁‫غ‬䅓‸㌶㕹 ग़Ա䅢Ϝі䄂䆈㑨℗b㕨䐑㝩㠉ૌջটᡸ㑶҂㎇㑶֥Ӯទ۱䑂䌄 ᠨ䑂 䒃㥖 䑂ጇ䙥㐢䌄㐀㌷∲֥ጦぷ㈸㐔㤗৳ 䖉㉦ᝲৄᙹ㈸čMadame GrèsĎaChristian LacroixaCristóbal Balenciagaaጣ⊐ЌਪčRei Kawakubon / Comme des GarçonsĎa䆇₃≓づ֥ Azzedine Alaïa 㕨ᦘ㐢㑖₁u֒ս㐀䘡┠㤨㐆včAn Ideal History of Contemporary Fashion Textuel ጇϱ㍠Ď֥䚒䒀 ѩᝄᝄጇϱ ਔ㊈जЧu҂⎐⡹֥䅩ገ₃ふ㕨ᚑ䘡včThe Impossible Wardrobe and Other Couture Rizzoli ጇϱ㍠Ďb 㕨֥䚃№⥉֖a⤧㦆 Tilda Swinton 㙷䄰ᅤㅴᡸ㈸bն䍑㔓⢓ㄗ֥䅢⥉₇ᤦ ᖗ ㈸ 㥢 㐷 ՜ Ӯਔ䅢Ց Ց э҂ ⎐⡹㝩⎐⡹aѩᙵ㤈ጇ㊈ ሢⅲ㐀䘡֥⊖㉈㍰㕉 Ϭ ㌶≂㉈㍥䑂㕹֥≦ґ䄂ጇb㊈Ց䄂ጇМᥢ֥┠⢗ᙑљ⠖㝩o҂⎐⡹֥䅩ገp čThe Impossible Wardrobe 2012Ďa o䅢Ⅱ䉡᥆p čEternity Dress 2013Ďa䆇 ₃o䅩શℵ␰㤨p čCloakroom 2014Ď 㕩ૌ҂≇䤇㐨ਔᚑ䘡㍡℅䌄ᚑ䘡Ч㍦֥ 䒇䤰 ۷㐢ⅲ䔥ջ㌶ਔㄗ㕦㝹䉷֥᝔ᕃ Ӯ㝩䅢䕥⠖ᜈふ㐄֥䆈㑨㦓㐒b 䎁䒃䕥䌈≴㢇 䒃ส䊇2015⢓⠨䉰 Rizzoli ጇϱ֥㊈जЧ≦䘡፧㑖 ᕕ䊇㌶㑩㊈ሢ ት䀵㊈⢓㢑ょᙨӖ֥㐀䘡і䄂≉㦕ਔ㤧≖֥ ᠨ䌄㒘⠒b䎁o҂⎐⡹֥䅩ገp 䕙 Swinton 㐷⦘䅢ⅡⅡӵ䍹䙂ᖗϤ䊓⢓㐀䘡㐆䌄䕧䅅㞕ᦈ䈁ᢒ֥ᚑ䘡 ␧␧䙨 ᡸ㍥䑂㕹 䒃㥖ᚑ䘡न㐢Ֆ ┕㐀㌷Ѱ㠸ᡆ֥ᡆҟ䒅〰䕙≦䁂‫ط‬ጇb๙ᡸ2013 ⢓֥o䅢Ⅱ䉡᥆֥৵㍦㈠p ᖗ㈸㥠৯䎁ᡄ䕩૫ㄗ㜹䔈䎀㤇ਔ䅢Ⅱᚑ䘡≨䉰ↀ㈸ ㅂ㐷ᐣ㍹֥㈆ᡸӱb‫ط‬䎁ֻ㊈Ցᤦ䚒֥o䅩શℵ␰㤨p䕙 Swinton 䌄 Saillard ๙ ᡸі䄂 ㍧㉰ฐ㕤ਔૄ䅢Ⅱᚑ䘡䌄ふ㕦䉷䒀䔥ℵ֥ᔵหᡁ㡴b ㊈ሢ䄂ጇन㐢〤ᘨ१З㒈‫پ‬㐶֥∡䚒 ‫ط‬㊈҆㆑䕙֥㐸҆䉰䊇㤵㐕㈸䑂㐓ਔᖗ ㈸Է䎙৯֥≥㈸∦≢ 㜹㈆⎐Ф㐴㝩䔈۱㐀䘡㐆㌶䅢Ց┢ӱЗ㐒֥䄂ጇb o֒m ҂⎐⡹֥䅩ገn֥ᜨ⢗䎁㠉⡱䕙ጆ⅘ጒ㦓䔥㐀 㠉ઔ㌶㤨֞ਔ Tilda pSaillard 䒃 䄰ӂ㐨ਆ㈸ᤦ䚒֥䍄ょbo֒㈢ ⡘㥖┳≨Ϥ⢓Ҟ㊒֥ᚑ䘡䆄≨㠡‫م‬䔐ӈጤ 䙂ਔ 㠉ૌ䅓҂㤨㈰ Tilda 䔨−ጤ㌶ 䈗㝩⡘䄰⌀㤴〄㌶ਔ㝶䘡䅢䄰 ुょট‸ 㖂ऎᙴՏ㥔ᡶb䈗Վ㠉ૌथ‫ק‬๙ᡸㅴ᜹ট㐨٢㕩ૌ㕦ӵ䍹֥癈৯ ∦ᡶ㉦⢆㕦 ⅘ Tilda 䚑֤‫؟‬હ㜹ૅbp ՎՑ䄂ጇѩ㠡㉁ᤥ㌳䅖⡐֥ Swinton 䌄 Saillard ≇≇Ч䙂ᕕ⊖㉈ᚑ䘡䔥ૅ֥煓 ≵টі䄂 Ֆ‫ط‬㝩㕩ૌ䘇㉰㦁⁑৯ Ֆ18㐕ℒ⡔ぅ⚇ጤᡸ֥䔵․ᡂ䕉ᚑa֞ Elsa Schiaparelli 䎁1936⢓㍡℅֥䈴䘑㐷สb o䉰䅢۱ն⁑㈸䑂㐓ᠢᔖᚑ䘡 ᤹㉖䆐 䈹䎙ጇ䅢䕥Ѩ㖃֥䑂㐓㥔ᡶ pSaillard ∧㐨֡b o䈗Վ 㠉ૌथ‫ק‬с䀢䅅䉤㤈ₙ បᙵϮ֥ᘦ㐒টӯ㤇 䅅㈰䒃㥖ᚑ䘡ुょট㝅㉦㎈㠸bTilda ㍦㌶㄂㄂ऎС䒃 䕥٤ُ֥癈৯ ѩㅑ⡹┠∧㠉ૌ֥䀙ㆄb㠉ૌᦘ䈁㐅֞ 䀙䅅ղ֞䅢۱㝡⠃֥᝔ ᕃ 㠉ૌ֥і䄂䀢䎁┑≳∙䕉䌄㜹ૅ䤇㐨ℵ➂֤〶᥅bp 䒃䕥ᜨ⢗ᦈ֥ӯ㤇ᘦ㐒☕ᡄ䕩㉦䚂㉦ቴb⁕䀤㐢 ┕㐀㌷Ѱ㠸ᡆᡆҟ֥ᔵห 癈৯ⁱょਔ㈸ૌ֥≵䕧䔥ㅴ ѩ䈗‫ط‬䁘ᚑਔᡄ䒀䕙੬⅘҂㢕֥όત 䆙⁕㐢Tilda Ўᢑ㈵ㅴ֥і䄂 ☕ᡄ䕩䒗ᢘ֞⡨䆇䂓іb䔸䉷䅢Ⅱ㐗㐢ड़‫ ֥ק‬⡘ь㐢u҂ ⎐⡹֥䅩ገ₃ふ㕨ᚑ䘡v䅢㑖䎀Ց☕㐀㌷䌄䕐′ѩℸ ѩ㜃षਔ䅢㌩䑁㦁֥ն ❢ ❢ᥢ㐢۷‫☕؟‬㈸づր֥㝹䔡b 㐗㐄㌶ 㢇䅢ሢ₂䕐′䌄ㅴ᜹䊇䅢㍦֥㐀䘡і䄂䆄≨䘳С⌀䀴 Olivier Saillard 䌄 Tilda Swinton 㒈㒈ጇ૫ ৯䄲䖙⠖⤧㦆 Charlotte Rampling 㝩₇ⅲष㐑֥㐀䘡 ㍖䉅і䄂֨㕹b䒃Ց֥䄂ጇ℅ᦇ䊇≂⢓9䍗27㉈֞10䍗2㉈づℵ䎁 ┕㤇ս䆈㑨 Ѱ㠸ᡆčMusée d’Art moderne de la Ville de ParisĎ≉㦕 Louis Vuitton 㐢ՎՑ 䄂ጇ֥䖘䎅䘁㌳b ऌ䚃㦁㥄㡕 Swinton 䌄 Rampling ⅲ᠃㙷֨㕹 䌄 Saillard ≦㦃䁂ጇ֥㍖䉅䚒〰 ≉㦕᥸ᔘ ふ䕙Їও㍖䉅ն㎉ Richard AvedonaIrving Penn 䌄 Brassaï ֥㥑㤴 䚒〰 ᥸ᔘⅲ䆇䈨㈸㉰㎇ѩ⁸᜘㎔䈁֥ᘦ㐒䑂षb o҂⎐⡹֥䅩ገp㍡৫ਔ䅢䚔 㐀㌷┢ӱЗ ㈢‫ط‬۷≦ґ֥䉡䍅ᦘ䎁ㄗᘦb

98

ă&#x161;&#x201C;ă&#x20AC;&#x2122;ŕŚ&#x;ä?&#x192; Ďąă&#x2C6;&#x192;ă&#x2022;Śä&#x2030;ˇ ḥ ,"5&3*/" +&## 7*/$&/5 -"11"35*&/5 "653& $06563& 3*;;0-* /:

Ň&#x201A;ŕŞ&#x201A;ă?˘ä&#x201E;&#x201A;á&#x152;&#x2021;ä&#x2022;&#x2122;á&#x152;¤Őşä&#x17D; ä&#x2019;&#x192;â &#x2013;⤧ ăŚ&#x2020;ă?Śă&#x152;śÖĽâ&#x2030;ŚŕŤ&#x2026;áŚ&#x192;á&#x161;&#x2018;Ä&#x2018;áŚ&#x2DC;ă?˘ŕ¸Ť Ń&#x2122;ă?Šă&#x2022;°ă?Ąâ&#x201E;&#x2026;â&#x20AC;Ť×§â&#x20AC;Źä&#x2022;&#x2030;ÖĽá&#x161;&#x2018;ä&#x2DC;ĄÄ&#x2018;á&#x201D;ą ä&#x2018;&#x2019;ă¤&#x2026;á&#x152;&#x2021;ă?&#x20AC;ä&#x2DC;ĄÖĽŕŤ&#x2026;৥ᤤă?°â&#x17E; b Olivier Saillard, Tilda Swinton,uŇ&#x201A;â&#x17D;?⥚ּä&#x2026;Šá&#x152;&#x2C6;â&#x201A;&#x192; ă ľă&#x2022;¨á&#x161;&#x2018;ä&#x2DC;ĄvÄ?The Impossible Wardrobe and Other CoutureÄ&#x17D;, Rizzoli á&#x152;&#x2021;Ďąă?

{ S K P } 㐀䘡

READY TO COUTURE Ӯ䅩䆙᝔‫ק‬

֒Ӯ䅩ᚑ㐩ն㜵᝔‫✆ژק‬₃ᦃৡਈ᜹ll㐀䘡㠠㝩㠉ૌषԷਔ䅢ₗ 䆇o᝔ᕆ㐀㌷p㝩ѓ䕁֥㍡℅b䎁Ч䙸ն〙┢đ 䉰ӑ⠢ SASKIA DE BRAUW 㝩 SKP 䍴䕁䄂䈔Чₗᙨ㌷b ㍖䉅 Matthew Brookes. 䎙㦒 Spela Lenarcic

100

ᤷ㌀ひ】㜱ส LOUIS

VUITTON.

ᤷ㌀㡷่㞗㜱ส₃ሥ॰a ᤷ㌀䒇】瑵ջ㥙 GIVENCHYđ"ROSE DES VENTS"㡴 ਙ‑≁ੳ㔘㎘䙹㎘∩䔵a ‑≁䒅䖄⡃Н䙹㎘∩䔵 DIOR 䖄Џ㡴ਙ 䚈䅔 䒇】㔈ጂ ৵䅩㈠ BALLYđSWAN LAKE ґ䙹 㤱╗ DE BEERS ᝔₉䖄Џ

ᤷϢն䅩 ISSEY MIYAKE "LILLIAN"ᤷ㌀䊖१瑵ջ癶】᝔ ۵㥙 GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN. 䚈䅔 ᤷ㌀ਊ〙㠡䀕৵䅩 ㈠a⡷ձᤷ㌀䒇㔈㌡ MARNI JOSÉPHINE 䅠䍁t㦆Ӣѳ≁䙹 ㎘㤱╗ CHAUMET.

ᤷ㌀䄣㉗㔈ጂ㒈ᅣ䕓 ⠧䀃㈠ BRUNELLO CUCINELLI 䒇】瑵䁆 KENZO, "FIONA" 㒑≢㚈㐩 MAISON MICHEL "CONSTELLATION"㦆䚔㡴ਙ 38ᤒ➀㒈㌀і॔㙷䕶㝈 і OMEGA.

ᤷ㌀㝓㌉ਊ〙Տ䀖৵䅩 ㈠ VALENTINO ⡷ձᤷ㌀䀃 䅩 ERESđ"LILLIAN"ᤷ㌀䊖१ 瑵ջ癶】᝔۵㥙 GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN.

䚈䅔 ᤷ㌀㔈ጂঘ╗㌡ DIOR.

э㦓ኑ㚓㞗䈰ᦁ䒇㔈वふ㌀ ৵䅩㈠ ETRO ᤷ㌀⡷ ձ䀃䅩 ERES "LEAH"≁㌀ひ 】瑵ջ᝔۵ਂ㥙 GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN 䉹䅔 ᤷ ㌀฿‫㉗ث‬৵䅩㈠a"LANVIN FEMININE" ৄ㔈瑵䁆a"LANVIN GINGER"ডੳ㒑≢≲㐩 LANVIN.

рЎќСЎњсїђТёЉрїѓНЈСђќЯДхСЁЕ сѕа GUCCI. СџѕСЁћ рцисїђСёБЯф░сАє СўАсю▒ЯИфa¤бсїђСњЄсћѕМЕсїАaрци сїђсЂ▓сђЉРЁцсёИлЄ SAINT LAURENT "BOUTON D'OR"РђЉРЅЂСЎ╣сјўсц▒РЋЌ VAN CLEEF ARPELS.

сЇќСЅЁСўЂРћа MARGAUX

JOUANNEAU, PHILIPP PAULUS, IRVING POMEPUI.

СјЎсдњСўЂРћа СјЎсдњсџё

PAULINE MOSCONI.

рїђ

TINA DOVJAK, ALEXANDRA

BEDNAREK.

рќЎсдњ TERRY

SAXON

@JED ROOT. мЉСўб MARIA OLSSON @JED ROOT. РабЯИФ SASKIA DE BRAUW @VIVA MODEL MANAGEMENT.

䄣રՏ䀖ն䅩a⡷ ձ㝓㌉㉗㞗৵䅩 ㈠ ALAÏA 䒇】લ‫ף‬ 䍦ᔘ㥙 BALDININI. 䉹䅔 ᤷ㌀ঘ╗䄣 રᔦ⦔aᤷ㌀愑 ጂሥ॰ SALVATORE FERRAGAMO Ϣ㌀】Ҥ䒇】㐷տ LONGCHAMPđ"ZIP " ᤷ㌀ひ】ুᚔ㥙 ROGER VIVIER

նক㦓 ㍖䉅 Amit Israëli. 䎙㦒 Spela Lenarcic

➀㌀⥔क़ᙨ䅩a ⡷ձ‣㌀㦃㦓 ਵ१ሥ䀕䄣ર㌡ BALENCIAGA .

䚈䅔 甅રਵօ⤓ ᔦ⦔ն䅩aᤠ䅗ш ᡸ㡘】䁆 FENDI.

‣ੳ㌀᜗㑦】ᝲ㞗ᔦ⦔ PRADA 䉹䅔 㠡䀕ᙨ䅩a ሥө㌡a㈸䎙】Ҥ㡷∙ ሥ॰ CÉLINE "CAPRICCIO" 癶】ਂ㥙 FURLA.

䄣રᔦ⦔ն䅩a 】॰a愑ጂ㔈 ∸ CHLOÉ ۱㦙ᦈ લ‫ף‬㡷∙癶】瑵 䁆 BALDININI. 䉹䅔 ♃ীक़㔂≁㔈ਵ ∦ն䅩 DOLCE & GABBANA

⁑ᔘ㐒⅑䄣રਵ䄣ર ն䅩a⡷ձՙᦁ⡵৵䅩 ㈠ BOTTEGA VENETA өર֣ б㥙 STUART WEITZMAN. 䉹䅔 ᤷ㌀৵䅩㈠㐒ն䅩 CHANEL " VIRGINIE"㜀‣㌀ ર䐴શ MAISON MICHEL.

䄣રն䅩aᡸ㡘䄣રሥ 㜩 MIU MIUđ"PORTOFINO AUTOMATIC"ϣม٣⤴䙗ᔘ ≦‫ۑ‬㝈і IWC. 䚈䅔 䌶㌀ 䄣રն䅩a"RUNWAY "ৠ㌀ 㜕⤀】㐷տ DIORđ"DAKOTA" ≁२ᦖᤷ㌀ᕇ䁆 GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN ㍖䉅䘁 ┠ MATTHIEU BOUTIGNON. 䎙㦒䘁┠ PAULINE MOSCONI. 䎙㦒㚄ጀ TINA DOVJAK, ALEXANDRA BEDNAREK.

ᖙ㦒 ALEXANDRY COSTA @ ARTLIST. ґ䘢 MARIE DUHART @CALLISTE. ⠢ห LENA HARDT

@VIVA

MODEL MANAGEMENT.

{ S K P } 㐀䘡

T B R L U U E E Ղ ড

㍖䉅 Karen Collins. 䎙㦒 Nina Stergiou

126

ਫᝲ㞗ն䅩 TORY BURCH, ⡷ձঞव䉙䅩 ARAKSđ ⡷ձᕇ॰ LA PERLA, 癶】 ᝔۵㥙 GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN, ঞवᕇ㜩 EMILIO CAVALLINI. 䚈䅔 ㉗ર 癶】᝔۵ਂ㥙 STUART WEITZMAN ॰㜩 FALKE.

】Ҥն䅩a䒇】ᡸ㡘ሥ䁆 FENDI 䉹䅔 ঞव䉙䅩 ARAKS ㉗ㆃ‫ᦖع‬ TULESTE ฿‫㉗ث‬㤱╗ MM 6.

≁㑧᜹㌶䅩₃ᕇ㈠ CARVEN ⡷ձ䒇㔈ᕇ॰ LA PERLA 癶】᝔۵㥙 GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN ሥ㜩 FALKE 䚈䅔 օ⤓৵䅩㈠ STELLA MCCARTNEY օ⤓ՙᦁ⡵⤧શ CHANEL.

ሥ॰a癶】䁆 BURBERRY ⠧䀃䉰㔆㈸ิប 䚈䅔 ॰㜩 FALKE 䒇】㐷տ ROGER VIVIER.

৵䅩㈠ SACAIđ⡷ձ䉙䅩 ERESđ ≁㑧᜹᝔۵⡓ী㥙 GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGNđሥ㜩 FALKE 䉹 䅔 ঞव䉙䅩 ARAKSđ฿‫㉗ث‬ሥ 㜩 SACAIđ䒇】㐷տ SALVATORE FERRAGAMO ㍖䉅䘁┠ BRYAN TORMEY, SEAN JACKSON. 䎙㦒 䘁┠ CAROLYN BRENNAN. 䎙㦒 㚄ጀ TINA DOVJAK, ALEXANDRA BEDNAREK. ᖙ㦒 CECILIA ROMERO @THE WALL GROUP. ґ䘢 RIE OMOTO @SEE MANAGEMENT. ૅ ™ CANDICE IDEHEN @BRIDGE ARTISTS. ⠢ห TIANA TOLSTOI @ NEW MADISON.

㍖䉅 Gabriel de la Chapelle. 䘖㞕 Jaïs Elalouf

ૄ⢓ϖ䍗⠨ ૅᡵ NEBRASKA ᠢս㌈ᢂ䕙䉷䚔ਢ㐀䔥በb ਢ㐀䔥በဒ㕇䙂䅢۱䔹䎁յぅ㐕㔲ᡕᘙᤤϥ㜔ጦ㚄抂扦֥␰ᦕ㎅ᑷ‫ط‬թ䎁b SKP 䍴䕁䄲ㅶ⤉䅢ょㄗ㝔o⁓㈸∙čBURNING MANĎpฐ➁b

㉦⁓㉦冁

FESTIVAL ON FIRE

Ч䙸⠖㝩"DUST PORTRAITS"㡴ਙ֥䑰〙㝩㍖䉅 ㎉ GABRIEL DE LA CHAPELLE ㅖᜇ⁓㈸∙⥉㍖֥䚒〰b

{ S K P } ㍹⁑ᘦ㐒

શᤖ֜ᡶ ЗⅲजюЋϭϪֵ⠉ и➃Ҝဤ񂤥 ᜐϪᚓ Կ↕ғሰℲϣϭኙᐢ񂤥 ϢЙ䄆㆒ϱမϣሱኙဠиအⅵ ѕᒁん񂤥” ␰ᦕ㠗㜓ဗ

20ព┢b䔐䈗㉦Վ 䙗㦕Ӛ㈘㐄㐢с䀙〰bૄ۱䔀䈹๙ӈᔱ䉷䘓㑧

⁓㈸∙Ф㐴㝩␰ᦕ∙ㅷ֥⁸䕅 䒃㤱㐑䊇ϖ䍗⠨㝩づϖ฿֥䆈㑨㎈

ↈ๙ញऎ ⁕㐢⁸᜘Է䈁䊃ջ䉷ঔ䈙㡴㚄֥oart-carpb㠉ૌ⎐䆇

ᑷ䊇ૅᡵ⡷ᦃղ䕲֥ᤷ䂑㌈⠳䕙ई㦕b䒃䚔ਢ㐀䔥በ⁀ऊট䙗㔓

㕇⁣ձӰ䒃㥖ᦙતㄗ≉č㐀㔴8ព┢Ďa㐩䉷ᔘ㖃䘡㐩֥Ӛਇ␰ᦕb

ᢂ֥ば㝇⠖␰ᦕ䒀 ᘱᙷ㐢ղղ䖘䈄ᙨᝲ֥uᙩ␰֥ચक़㔂vᒀ䉅

䒃㥖oart-carp๔☡䘉䙲䔥ጡ 㝔㝔䈨টն〃㈸ӖbՎ㐀Վख़ 䅅☡

ሢ≱ ۷㐢恠】㐔㦃䕙֥㤇ս㠗㜓ဗbԷ㐑䊇1986⢓֥⁓㈸∙኉ડ

㐹䎁⦖䉸㍦ш⁕䀤㐢Ⅱ⡨㐗 䈗㝩ૄ᝵10ᙑ䕢⌀‸䉷э䘡⁕ઊ㍦֥

ኒ᝔┠㤨aૅৡ如奙 䎁ᙩ␰ӑ㤇㐄aّ䖘ੀ㞕ᦈaㅴ᜹ↈੀa㍠㈡

ਸ਼ো㈸㐔䉐㌶ѩ۳䌁⢆㈵ㅴ֥䉐Аb᠙ᔵㅰ≳֥㐀ख़䐅Ӯ㝩۱㈸

䙗ᖙa䉥⠱᜹֩۲䕥ҪՑनղ֞‫פ‬ᙦbથ҄䎁20〶ᘦព┢ն֥ᜲ

⡷㎄֥䚃№⁣‸b⁓㈸∙֥ሢ≱㉦㙷ਸ਼䅢۱㐕∲b㠉ૌᘱᙷট֞䅢

ᤱᥳԵ⠳ֹ┢ Ֆট䙗䕙㡆֥҆ᙩ␰℗๖䖘ᜡ֞ᡗᠥ֥॓ₕゐ䅖ष

䚔㐕㌶䚃ն㦒֥Ѱ㠸ᡆb䒃㥖Фӫ䚒oburnersp֥䌄‸㈸㐔∳䉰

ᖙ䒀 ᔱ‸䌄⤉≥㡱如奙bՎՑ␰ᦕ∙֥Ӯ㥔۷㎇䊇㎗⢓֥㦃┠ਏ

۱㈸֥㐨٢і㤇čᚑ䘡ᙨᝲ䅓⎐㐴㝩҆ઋ䖘䈄֥䑂㤇Ďᤤ㦕㝩 ҂

ӱ ջਵ⤉ฐ㕤䙗㠉㦃ਲb

ᐠ‫ק‬䈄ਔ䒃ሢ㎅‸֥Ч䕓䈁䈄 䅓䎙⌀ਔ⁓㈸∙֥Ӯទb‫ط‬㦕㝩䐅

㉦㉹䉷⠸۱␰ᦕ∙㐢㠡‫م‬₇㦐ν⥐㦕ӱ ⡘㠡䅶⌀㐢⁓㈸∙ਔbᕕ

Їওਔ᥸ᔘ㦙֥䆈㑨⁑ᔘ 䅢㥖ㅴ≴㢇䁗ㆄյぅ∲㤕֥ ᐣ҂≨֥

䊇⡘㥖ጆՑҕ䌄⁓㈸∙֥㈸‫ط‬䂓 䘳С㦕ӱ֥ᡸӱ㕅҂䆐㈕㤗֒с

㐄䄔㦙і䄂ᤤ∕㚈खሢ䄂ጇ֩​֩b䖘䅅㝩 dubstep ᒀ䙖ু֥䈙ু

䅅 ⢆䅅㐗㢓ਔ∧∙ㅷ䅴㐒 ᐠ䊃с䀢䘳Сᤔ㠡㕦ᠨ℈֥㦃㖃b䌄㈸

∙⡐⡷㉖䐅䙥㐢Ќት㍰➁ 䀙֞ղ␰ᦕ∙㤇ሢᅤ֤䆇䔡㥇b䈙ু∙

ձӚㄗ㝔⁓㈸∙⁕䀤㐢䚃№֥ↈ๙ᘦ㐒 ᐠ䀙ॉ੮䌧☡㕇㍦㥢ջ䈦

⡐ѩ㠡㕦㞈֥ਵ㢙䖘∀ 㕦䉷䈙ু℗न૧ᙆ䄂ጇb⢆⁕䀤⎐䆇๐֞

㒑a㐂㠸֩Ҁ۳〰ᤤ䑙⦔֥ॢℵb䒃䄰㐢㝩≖⎐⡹ղ֞␰ᦕづℵ䙗

⠸㈸䀸ӫoDaft Punkⅲ䎁⠸ֹ䄂ጇp ַղ㌶㑩䑙⦔ᥢ ᅤᖙ㤇䔐

۳䙗䙲֥䘥㖃 䈗㝩⁑ᔘ㤇ሢѩ㠡㉁ᤥҔ䈦ប䈵 㝧䅢ᘠ㑂֥㐢Ѣᤤ

䎁Ѭ٢㕨ૌ֥䘓₀ 䊃⁕㐢ㄗ㝔ҕ℘䉰䎅䘁㌳หљ䄲ㅶ֥㈱㍓ऍ㦆

ऴ٥b−㢇ট с䀢䎁㑶䆇Ϥ℅֥o䖘ี㍠ㆉp䕙䑧֞䙗ₓ㕦㑧֥o

Snoop Dogg䎁⠸۱䈹ֹ㜱㝦ईပ֥䄂ሱ‸b

䈹ֹpb䒃㥖㍠ㆉ⎐䆇᥸㤗᠃㤰⠸㥖㍡Сᤤ䙇䍃b 2009⢓ 㠉㐸Ցҕ℘⁓㈸∙֥⁑ᔘ ᥢট♠䀵䊇2012ᤤ2014⢓䆇

䁦䕶䈹⁓

۷㝩㑓㐥֥ᘦ㐒䎀ᕃ䎙٠b㠉֥oጡ⤧㦕p㐢䆇㜂ᕔᘦ㐒≉㦕֥b

∙㉈ㅷᑷ䆇ᙔ㍂⡘䚅50➀᝔֥ऍն㈸㤴䚒㝩о⡆㐒 䀇䀇֥⁓䄑㦓

㠉䌄ਸ਼㜱ਆ㞆䉸㈸᠃㙷䙱䉤䅢ਇ∇Ӛㄗ㝔b٦䄠֥ӣ㚘㠡ㅴֹᡉ

Ӯ䅢䚔o㎈ᒇpbՎख़䆙Ӯ㝩䕩㈸ㅴ᜹㐨٢֥䁦䕶᝔Ӗb䒃۱㉓ᤤਔ

㉰Ӛ⡷ ⌀৵䑙⦔≅о㐀䆙㠡২㜱b䅠ℵ䑙⦔┢۷㐢䅢㜂㜂☕㈸䕘

ਸ਼ো⦖क़≦㍰ᤤ㎈䍑ᢗ⁓Ϝ∙֥䅴㐒ょ䍃䙗ば㎗⢓ս⠨㞆䊇⊖≁

㡕֥䂅㠶 㐈㈸㠡‫م‬㉰㒒b㠉ૌ䔸ᤔ٢゗䑙⦔ 㕇ጡν㥗 ㍴䕄ु⅘

㌘ᢂฅ㌶֥⡘䅢ሢ㢉䕄䈹⁓䅴㐒b

ふ㕨㈸䎁ពӚ‫⦒פ‬㌶ι䌈ҿ➉b䎁㠉ૌ∂ᙆ䐓䈹֥o‫م‬㡆㔂ᦖЌ

䒃䅢Ϝ⁓㥄怀ਔ۲䕥᝵ᤩ ҂ં㐢۱㈸⡷䎁֥㦃┢぀䑤ᦘ㐢㜂ุ㈸

䈹p┢ ૄ䅢۱㈸ᔱ䉷䈄㡀ҕ䌄㍠㈡㍹⁑bЧ䅖 DJ Oof ֥㠉䘉㐹䊇

℉ℵ֥぀䑤b䔈ሢ⁑ᔘ䆇ᕕ㕨㈸֥䚅䕧㝩䌶䐅 䉰⁓㈸∙䖘ပֆ㞆a

䅢ਇ☧䎙㦒֥նवӚ Ӛ㌶䍹䙂䅢㈡۲䙗㥢ջ䙗㦕Ӛ֥恠】㐔b䎁

ᡵ℗䙗㈢Ќ᥷ㆉa䕲䔑ᜅa≰㞑ᕔᤤ䕁䍇䒀֩㠨۱ᚑ㡀㜂ᕔ㈆૫ℱ

⁓㈸∙䕙 ᔵऎห㌀֥થ䉵ਫ਼㤖㉦㢇 䎙٠⠸䚔䈙ু䘡䕆 㕇䈁ᐤ䙩

॥⁑ᔘ֥ν㈆b䖘ပֆ㞆㝩ਔх૧㥄ᙆ䖘䈄㆖ս⁑ᔘѥӵ֥ҕ䌄㐒

ৃ㍗ᡑ㑱‫ط‬Ӯ֥ㅘ⅙㈕㈰㈸㡂䆇㝩㐢⠸㞆㝵ն֥䚒㆑℗ 㑃䄲䈦

ঌ䐒≨ℂ ҂䍥䀤㉁ᤥ≁ㄕↈ䆐⁕㐢ᡒᝡ㦕㝩b o䉰ૄ䅢㞆䌄‸䒀थ

䉤〸㍦㌶㥧䙂䚃䒅ᡨ㦃䍇֥␲㈅㒑č㉈ЧⅴЧ㎇Ѱ㐔䆄䔕㐄㦃⢗

‫ק‬ᕕ⁑ᔘ֥ᜓጇᘦ㐒a㝩㍠㈡ิប֥᠂㤈⡷㉖ 䉰ૄ䅢㞆ҕ℘䒀۴

⎐䆇ᜧэ㒑ᙑ䙖∦᠐Ď ∦ↈ⠸㞆䉸䈉ᕇթ֥ↈ㦃ᤔ䉸 䌄⠸㞆䑷

ऌ⢓ᕃ䖘ี㐄㤇۱㈸֥䆈㑨ӯ㤇 p㕨ૌ㉦Վ∧㐨֡b⁓㈸∙⁑ᔘᙵ

㈸䎁┑‫ײ‬९┢≉㦕≦㍰ᕕᦉ֩​֩b

㦕֥㎗ն∅่㝩 ⁱ≉㜂∦a㠡㔆ᙵ㤈a‫׀‬ᜉ㐱ሢ‫م‬䐅a䙗৯۷㍹a 䙗㠉㐨٢a₂ุ⤥৯aព⠆䐃㉁aҕ䌄ᜓጇa㤰㑃֒㢇䆇₃⁑ᔘ∦㑱

䆈㑨㎈ᑷ

ᥢ֥҂☡ᤸ⁰b⁓㈸∙҂⊐ㄗᝄ᠑䕆䑅ֹ1600ㅵ֥oFly Ranchp⤢

␰ᦕ∙ᙑ㝩ਆ۱҆ᙑ 㞆䊇ᤷ䂑㌈⠳⦅ֹčBlack RockĎ֥oplayap

ሢ 䚒㝩ӈ⢓֥⁑ᔘሢֹb

ᤤ䉷䙂ᡕᦇ֡ਫ਼֥န䍁㦓oᤷ䂑በpb䎁䒃〙ᡒ䡱֥⠳ֹ䕙 ⡘䅢䚅 սі䙂⁓㈸∙aФӫ㝩oThe manp֥ऍն㈸㤴㈰㈸ૌ⡹᠒ㅦ㔘䑧 ֞∙ㅷֹ㕦䎁b㈸㤴㞆䊇䉳㉦і⥗҃अ֥䔐䕙䄖 ٢㍗䘥֥ն֡䅓

www.burningman.org www.delachapelle.net

䅧ऌ∀ᕃᤤ㞆䕆⠗⠖ 㤴㐢6ׄ30ᙑb䅢฿䕙 ⢆᤹䉷⎐⡹䀙䅅҄㦕

140

{ S K P } ㍹⁑ᘦ㐒

141

ϨᜐϪᚓЅ ᤖⅆ‫ا‬ա ∹ղբ ۶ғЎ: ᦈ㔐℘ሱᙖӂ‫إ‬ঞ ᜃҺ㌵䍢 銐दᑹ⡂ґю 䐡㒉ᒃўϪ ⥹кЋϥ℘֧㠀အ ӑ␩р ի㜢⤂ѓ ‶Ӳဠ᠈би♷ਯКᡘ 䙳㠗һ񂤥”

{ S K P } ㍹⁑ᘦ㐒

THE

RITZ RETURNS

┕㝕‫؟‬⡂ৡ䙅⊓ᒃ㎅㐕䕧㤇

㚓〙ট䍃 ϱ㈃㕦䉷Ġḡ 7*/$&/5 -&3069

䘖㞕 Nathalie Fraser

┳≨㔓⢓֥ᤗն‫ي‬䀉ញӱѩӮទֹ ฦᡸ䅢ሢ⁓∘đR┕ৡ䙅⊓ᒃ䕤䊇 ሩषն❢䕧㦁૫㐕đ䌄㐕㈸ᙑ㤰䒃 ᙘऍն֥㡱䍘bSKP 䍴䕁䄲ㅶ⤉䅢 㙷䎙٠䒃۱䕄䒐ӑُ֥ጦぷ⊓ᒃb

146

Ֆ COCO CHANEL ‫פ‬₉ สᘨ┢₇⎐㥹㌴䌄ৡ 䙅⊓ᒃ㙷㐀‫ي‬䀉֥㝕 ‫؟‬⡂ℒ⢗㙸䘀b

{ S K P } ㍹⁑ᘦ㐒

ϣᙸℂԳအ֞℗坆Ϩ┆Ջအ֝ ІѼ㈈ᑹᒅ䕣 ≥ᔱҾ Ϥᜡϥӌ‫ז‬䒗Є傄ᡃԿ 楢Љੴᡳ ฅᥲ䑁 ۵ ҅҄ᡄ䒂䐲ϳ愖 Цϥъሱ֛ᡄ⊐ਹՑ⅕񂤥”

䒃ᕉ㐀ℵ䆇ট ┕㈸ᕕ䊇㤶䔄㍐ᦃ֥㝕‫؟‬⡂ᡒሢ㌶℧ડ֥↘㐷℧

≥䄃ਊ㤗

ᤤ㔷ਘ㝦┖㔕ᥤ䎔䆄㡩ᡈbৡ䙅⊓ᒃ䊇2012⢓8䍗䀸ᝡоᡆ≉㦕‫ي‬

⠒㤅⎐⅘֥ᜧэĤ䅢㉰⊓ᒃ б䆇㝔۷℘⠒ਊ␦ሩ֥−րㄗ㕹৫

䀉 ҂⊐ᥢᡒሢ㌶֥㝕‫؟‬⡂ℒ⢗㙸䘀䅓㕇䔥≉㦕䀉‫گ‬bᡑґ㌢䅆֥

ख़䍓㉰䄀৺b䅢㡴ਙ䕧նញӱ䔹䎁䈨㉰նਈ֥䙗㈢Ґᡑѩঔ኉ॢ

㍐ᦃ䖄Џ䔥㦃㔕ᥤᕠ㐀๔䔶๋ᔘ ҂㔕䆇㝔֥我或ᕨ⡐b㈢‫ ط‬䈩ҟ

ℵ ҂ં㐢૫㤵㝕‫؟‬⡂ᡒሢ֥䑁㦁Գᦀ 䘤ᡄᕨ⡐֥⁑ᔘ㐒Ѫৰ฿

䎁啁⡆ᥢ㑶䆇Ϥ℅֥ញ㈸a䆈ↀaⅩ䘅㎉aᒀញᤤ䌹䆈㎉㈕Ֆ㝹๔

⦒ ᦘ㐢⡘䚔䉰≱ᡄն㎉ Jean Mus 㑃֞䌄ৡ䙅бਣ֥―℗ភᒇᦁ

㥗 ㈆㦃㚇㉰䒃䅢‫ي‬䀉ញӱ ㈰ ┕䚃ᦃૅ֥⊓ᒃ䎀䎙‥‘b

䌹ゑᖙ‫ط‬㍡℅֥‫م‬㐒ᠢᑷᦁ䌹b૫Ӕᦁ䌹֥≨ᑷ᠁⒃㤇䎁䐅䉰≦

1898⢓ 䒃䚔䉰 César Ritzč⍢㊁cৡ䙅ĎԷ৫֥⊓ᒃ㐸Ց૫㤵

〰ᒃᤤ㐀㌷ᜨ⢗ᒃ䘡ׄ ᒃ⡷≖㐢۲䕥ᙨ㌷ড়〰ᤤ≦䕅㐩〰bᦁ䌹

㐕㈸ष䅖b㕩ភ๓㐒֥㜱ᡄⅩ䘅䉰ਫ਼䆐㎗㔓֥䌘䉤Ⅹ䘅㎉ Jules

ֹ㢇յ䎙ਔ䅢䚔ն㦒ᦃৡ㠱ቷbֹ㢇Ҫ䐉㍡䅢่৵−䙂๔Ӛሢᤤ

Hardouin-Mansart ㍡℅ Ⅹ䊇1705⢓b⊓ᒃ┢֥ૄℵग़ᘨᔱ䉐䉷

⊓ᒃ֥➁➅๙֡ิប VIP џग़۷㔆➅֥Ќ᥷b䌶Ч⁸ふ᜘ৡถ―֥

ᔵ৫䌤㐳a䘓䉤ᒀᦉᤤᒀ৯ប۳֩֒㐀㐄㑧ᝰ㦁֥䅢ੀ㍡С 䅓䈗

ጦぷ䉙ቷэ֤۷℘ૅ⚅ૅ倄bChanel ૅ㉖᥷┠䕙㦃䊇ৡ䙅ऒু҆

ՎФ㐴㝩䅢䚔ᦇ㐀ս֥⊓ᒃb䖘┠Ҕ๏ጉᘨ֥㐢㤇ս‫م‬㐒ਘ┠䔥

֥ष⡆۷㐢〰⥑␠䙲 SPA ∲֥Էई Վई⎐㐴㝩ᕕ㍹ㄗሥづ㉰䘆⊓

᜕ Auguste Escoffierčύᠢ㔂หcή॓٣Ď ㉁㕨≖ㅴᖙ․ጉ䆈b᤹

ᒃ֥〰⥑Է㐑㈸ Coco Chanel ⤧㐔֥૪ᦒᤤ䕅䈁b‫ي‬㦁ᥢ֥⊓ᒃ

␥ ৡ䙅⊓ᒃӮ㝩ᢂ⠒㝙aCoco Chanel ⤧㐔֩䆈㞕⠖ੀ㤗䍑֥

䉐䉷15ℵ㦁Է֥‫פ‬₉สᘨ ふ䕙䅢ℵ₇䆇䒃㞆ጦぷ㐀㌷㢓ᙧ⠗⠖b

㐸䁂ֹׄb⊓ᒃ┢䉦䁸⁸䕅֥㄰૫⅘䔕ਔ䀤䀤‫┳֥؟؟‬㐆㦙㐀ख़a ૅৡ如奙ᤤᔘ㈸֥ιㅴᠧ㐗 ৡ䙅᤹␥⌀瑰㍦Ӯ㝩 ┕㌶ੀ㍹⁑֥

㍓ℳ㤰㑃

䕧䅅ሢ㕦b1979⢓ 䔡⠖᜘㌳ Mohammed Al-Fayed Ӯ㝩 ┕ৡ

䒅 噶 ૅ ⊓ ᤤ⊓ ϔ 㞕ᦈ䅢䔨䆇 ট ᔱ㐢ৡ䙅 ⊓ ᒃ 䚅ᡨ ุ 䄔 ֥䕧 䅅

䙅⊓ᒃ֥䉐䉷䒀 ѩ䊇ት䀵ᕕ㜱ष٢֥ㅴঃ䔥㢇≉㦕ਔ㐸Ց䕧ն‫ي‬

䅢ᦖb‫⊓ט‬ն㎉ Colin Field 䎁㔓⢓ᥢ ᡘ֞Ќት䌶ષ֥ᢂ⠒

㦁b䒃㐢⊓ᒃ҄㉰⠥֨㐀սֻ֥䅢҄b₇ь㉦Վ ֒ս䚃㦁॓ₕᕕ

㝙 ⊓ ϔ bᕕ૫ ֥ৡ䙅 ⊓ ϔ ┢ 㦁㉁ ⤧ ‫⊓ ט‬㎉ A u ré l i e Pezet ⅲ

䊇જ㤵ֻᖗ۱Ϥ⢓┳㐆֥ᡔЏ⊓ᒃ㉇㈢䉷㤗֒ն֥㎂₉ॢℵb

㉰ 䖘ϔ㕹 ᠵ䎁 㕰㍦ᥢ֥⡘૫≶䙖 ጦӵ䙗⊓ᒃԷ৫ 䔥㐀bਵ㢙 ‫ פ‬₉ Ҕ ๏ ֥㐢 ѥ ӵ 㤇ս ૅ㐂 㢓 ㆔ ύᠢ 㔂 หcή ॓ ٣ ≦ ㍰ ֥䖘

џ䕄㉦ᡘ

ጉ Nicolas Saleb㕨䊇Espadon Ҕ๏㜃ጇ≦䕅ㅰ㒉֥㠰Ҕᤤ☕

ৡ䙅䅓㐢䕩‫؟‬ӈग़㢇挡⊓ᒃ֥㐸䁂b҂ં㐢⠖ੀᦘ㐢ᚑ㡀㈸䍀⠕

㈸䕤㍹⡨㝗֥㝂Ҕb㈆㦁յ䎙֥だਗ਼㔂ห㌈☧┢ิប֥㐢ใׄ䖘

℆䎁㦃֥䚅ᡨ٠ग़ ૄ䅢㞆џग़ᔱ䌄Վֹֿ∦ਔ䅢ᕉ㍧ख़㔆➅֥䍄

ጉ François Perret Ֆ䒃㞆㞕䁈ऍↀ֥㥈㒘䚒〰䕙₆㆖ਲ᜹‫ط‬Ӯ֥

ᙑb➂֤䅢⠖֤䆇㎇㉁ՎϤ⢓‫ي‬䀉㤱⡐֥Ⅹ䘅㎉䈗Վ䕄ᡁ䕧䅅 㕨

Է䈁ใׄ 㝩⤉㤈㌶‫م‬㐒≨ᑷশથ㢇㠰үb

ጔਔс䀢䉷⡹৯䀉‫گ‬Ⅹ䘅㜱ᡄᤤ℗ऎ 㝩⊓ᒃ㉓㉰㑓㐥圹䈁ᤤ䚃

2016⢓֥ ┕ৡ䙅⊓ᒃ֥䑁㦁┠⢗䔥䅢₇㐢㉓㉰ ┕∕ㆉ֥㉈ӈ

㦁॓ₕ䔥㜱 ᦘс䀢∤≖㕦⡹Ќ☡䒃䅢ᙘџग़㕦ㅴ㡴֥oं℗pᙐ

㍹⁑䕙b䔐䎁㐶㝷֥ញӱ䅢ᐘ㜹य o The Galleryp᠁⒃๙֡ⅲӮ

㝦b䆇ૅᡵ㝩ऌ֥ׄ Thierry W Despont Ӯ㝩㝇┢็䅢֥㤱⡐Ⅹ

㝩ᡐጤ৵−㝕‫؟‬⡂ᡒሢᤤ Cambon ∕֥หљ๙֡bֹ֒ं⠆⎐䆇

䘅㎉b㕨䐑ք㉁⤙䍑䙗䉰⤧㍰㤴֩ጦぷֹѓ䀉‫گ‬㤱⡐֥䖘ት㈸ 䅓

টՎՖ㉖䉧㤁ֹᤙЖऴ٥ ֞ৡ䙅⊓ϔ㜱ջoৡ䙅p䘓㑧֥⤖∀૫

−㑃 Bill GatesaCalvin Klein ֩䔡⠖㈸㐔֥㝴㜓㍡℅㔆㈸Ⅹ䘅b

Ї 䎙٠ᜨ⢗ᒃ䁂᠑ᦁ㑱⁕ૅ⊓ᜇ䍑䉸㈸㝂䄒b҂ં㐢ㄗ㝔㤰䉤ㅦ

ՎՑ 㝩䕧䔈ৡ䙅❢๖ 㕨⁀ऊਔញↀ䔧㈸∲֥≦䈱㈸ᅤb‫␶؟‬䒃

㔘㢇㠰үᦘ㐢Ї䍗‫ק‬㢇สᘨ ┕ৡ䙅⊓ᒃᔱু䊇ⅲՎ癈৯ӯ㤈۳

㈡䆈ↀ ⊓ᒃ⡷ϖӮ֥ᠢᔖ℗ऎᅤ֤䆇䀉‫گ‬Ӯᦃૅ䌶ષ ҆ᙑ䚑ញ

⡘㥖⎑㝖ㅖ㍦㤰㑃ุ䄔֥џग़ૌbৡ䙅⊓ᒃ֥䕧㦁ष⡆҂⑅㐢䅢

≦䕅֥䆁䙖㍴䕄≨ᡸ15֡ґひᅤᦘ䌶┳㐆㌀ґbสᘨ┢⎐⅘⍢

ᙘ㤈۳ ┕֥䕄䒐ᤔড়b

⁨‫ ڑ‬㝩૫㉖䉈ጇ䙗㈢ᥕ㉸֥ゕ㌀b⊓ᒃ⡷֥Ҕ⥗䙸䐅㐢䂒䉤䙗

www.ritzparis.com

1898⢓䆇ট䁂䉤֥‫م‬ᡵ Limoges նㆉ Marthe ≨ᑷᠤՌb䅢ㅉ䅢 ㉦䆇㝔 ≦䕅᝔䁸b ₇ьo㉓㉰䚃㦁ℳᕆ॓ₕp䊇۲₉สᘨ㝩䕧䅅㉁㡀 䉦䁸ૅᡄ㈕ध ᕕ҂㉖㡓㎁bᒀ㐴぀⡆Ф䕆㉰ᘨ⡷֥≶䙖ᥢᘦ⁕ᦆ℧㌶ 䔸䉷षゑ 㐈䉤㐀ᅤ‸㤅㐓bૄℵᘨ⡷䕄㍆ઘ䙂ਆព┢ሥ֥≦㦃㍡℅֥䈩ҟ ᡅ㤖bጔՎ䔥㜱 㝩ਔิបџग़۷㑓㐥␦ᡒ֥ॢℵ ㈰㕨ૌ۷⡹㤰㑃 ं℗᜹㑃 ⊓ᒃ᝔Ҫथ‫ק‬ⅲ䌶䉷֥สᘨ㑶Ֆ159ℵ‫ט‬ↂ㝩142ℵb

148

㚓〙ট䍃 ḡ 7*/$&/5 -&3069

㊁cৡ䙅ㅖ䙗䁂䐄֥ᙖቡ㌀ર∸ 䈗㝩㕨ᖙ㤇䒃۱䂔㌀⎐䆇ิਊ

{ S K P } ㍹⁑ᘦ㐒

⊓ᒃ⡷֥ព᠃ॢℵaสᘨᤤ ৡ䙅 ऒু ҆ ֩ ֩đन䆇㤵┳㐆ᠢ⁰ 䕅 ≵֥≦㍰㈆૫‫ي‬䀉b

150

{ S K P } ㍹⁑ᘦ㐒

㚓〙ট䍃 ḡ 7*/$&/5 -&3069

⁖⁵ѦНኒ 偲 䀦𘡃ᠨ 甶 ֬ І‫ ת‬ⅰ ₉ 剓 ա ⅸ䎗 ቴ ЋјуѴဗϭ⤳աНк٤ ᡧ㍢ি Ћӌ‫ب‬䀗пІѼᝂ 㔰 Ӥա񂤥ᠰᤢֵ ℉⊃ ␡जϥ㕡ѓІ1898 ёкϱ ‫ת‬ѓ ֛н L I MO G E S အ ᦑ MARTHE үਹ⤁唵񂤥”

151

{ S K P } 䚃㦁ᔘ㖃

SKP

䚃㦁ᔘ㖃

㈰㠉ૌ䅢ょ ᠨК≤ SKP ֥≦ґ⁑ᔘđ䎙٠㈆㦁 ૫㐕֥≦〰ᒃđѩづր҂㉖հᡸ֥หљ⁑ᔘb

STAND FOR ELEGANCE 䉦䁸֥৯ਈ

㈆ㆃ⡧㐔㐀㌷㍹⁑⡐ֹ֥iiК≤ SKP ᖗҪ㈆㦁ਊ㤗 Ֆ≨ᑷ֞ㄗ㞑aՖ㍐ኃ֞㐀㌷aՖጦ㚄֞㦁㉶b䒃۱ 㢉฿ К≤ SKP ᜐ䌁ᡒն⡧㐔۷㝩䉦䁸֥৯ਈbᕕ䊇 ՎՑ⡧䘡ੌҪ֥㍡℅ᜧ䎙 К≤ SKP ৳㐷⚆ᕙⅩ䘅㍡ ℅ព㔇Ֆ ⡧㦙㐴∀䈵 䉤ਔ䄥ᝄૅ ᜹֥ₑᤥ㚓㦓 ѩ 䉤ภॢ֥ᘦ␱յ䎙฿ᦁ䎙 㦒đ∦ᤦᡐጤ䔈۱㌳ሢ֥ SKP 〰⥑ѓ䕁㦙㤖่đ㙷㐀⁢䊇ᕕ䕙ᡵ㍩㐔᠑㠸㡩ᡈ ֥㍧ख़‫׳‬ҳđ䆇〰ো䖘֝սู〰⥑䖘֝đⅲㆉ䌑ᦇᙑ ۷℘⠒㡉đ〰ো۷㝩₂䕙đ㝩㍩㐔ૌิបਔ۷℘ь∢ ੀሰ֥᠑㠸ุ䄔b BALLY BOTTEGA VENETTA BRIONI BRUNELLO CUCCINELLI CALVIN KLEIN COACH DUNHILL ETRO GUCCI HUGO BOSS KITON LANVIN LORO PIANA MONTBLANC PAUL SMITH PRADA SAINT LAURENT STONE ISLAND TOM FORD VALENTINO VERSACE Z ZEGNA

NEW FLOOR

2F

6.3 6(/(&7

㚓〙ট䍃 ϱ㈃㕦䉷Ġḡ -*6 +*/(

ALEXANDER WANG AMI ARMANI COLLEZIONI & EMPORIO ARMANI ASPESI BELSTAFF CLOSED JW ANDERSON MAISON MARGIELA MARNI MULBERRY RICK OWENS THEORY

㤇ሢᦘ䉷۷‫⥑〰؟‬ ֩⤉ট٠

152

{ S K P } 䚃㦁ᔘ㖃

SKP ㎅նष⡆ OPENINGS ㈆㦁ष䅖֥≦〰ᒃᤤ䑁㦁֥ Է䈁ॢℵđ֩⤉ㄗট䎙٠

&+8 5 &+ 6 䊇К≤ष䅖 CHURCH’S 䎁⊐᜗㎅⠖֥К≤ SKP ष

㍡ਔ㈆㦁ਬ㑂ऌׄ ㄲᦈਔ〰⥑䎁 䂀䕳㐱ሢ֥⡹⅘ᕃb㝩ㅷ䘈㦁ᒃष 䅖 CHURCH’S ᦘⅲ᜘䉷ጦぷ㌀ґ֥㌶ᢂ 㡴ਙ℘䆇䕧㦁䤇㐨b㍆⅘֥ѯઅ֥ᢂ ড㌀㈆㦁㥙␧㌶㐩䆇䂔㌀ᥣ䈵֥લ‫ ף‬ 㝩К≤ SKP ᔵ℗␧㐒b CHURCH’S ㌶ᢂ㡴ਙ㐢ᕕ 1929⢓䘓㝩੪ ंᡵ㜱֥䈱ᡵ㈸㍡℅֥⡧㥙㡴ਙ֥㜹 ૅ‫گ‬ख़b䒃䅢หљ㝩К≤ SKP ᒃけᔵ℗ 㜃ጇ֥ CHURCH’S ㌶ᢂ㡴ਙ甥ড㌀લ‫ף‬ หљ␧ Ґ䉤ᔵห֥㌃੩ֆ२䌄 ੀ㔰㡷∙ ձ⦁甥ড㌀⤖】ᅣ䕓 ѩ㐩 䆇≁㑧લ‫ף‬㡷∙ Ӯទⅲጦ㚄䌄㤇ս∦ ᤦ 䉦䁸‫گ‬ᠢ䊃ぃऎ۱㦙b

153

{ S K P } 䚃㦁ᔘ㖃

SKP 10 ANNIVERSARY SPECIAL EDITION TH

К≤ SKP ㎗䕱⢓ᒃㅷหљ≦䁂 ≁ㆀ㎗䍗㝩 SKP ㌳ሢष䅖֥㎗䕱⢓ㅷđ㝩Վđ 30䊓۱䚃ऎ㐀㌷㈃㝙֥䅢㤖〰⥑ᙒᙒ㜃ጇ SKP ᔵ℗㤕ਈ㌳〰b

ETRO GIVENCHY

LOEWE

ᔵ℗㤕ਈ ᤦ䚒〰⥑

LONGCHAMP

DOLCE & GABBANA

" 䑉 ٢ S K P " ᤤ S K P ֥ ѓ 䕁㦙ล ᥕ㌀₇㝩Է ᒃ㎗䕱⢓

֥䖘 ี 䅢㡴ਙ сС㐀㌷ֆ〰䅓㝦㈳䙂㤗㙷䖘 ี ᖙ ․b10䍗16㉈䕄 30㉈ 䒃ሢ㐀㌷㎅㐗ⅲ䊇К≤ SKP 䅢ੌ 䕙๖ ㎅նई㦕b䎁䉂−䒃ሢૅ㐗֥㙷㐀 㠉ૌੱ㢓ӯ 㤈҆ᙑ≦䁂ֆ〰 ㈰ㅖι֥ᔶ䒀䅢Ў䄀ᚔb

1F

ALAÏA ALEXANDER MCQUEEN BOTTEGA VENETTA BALLY CÉLINE CHLOÉ COACH DOLCE & GABBANA DSQUARED2 ETRO FENDI FERRAGAMO GIVENCHY GUCCI JIMMY CHOO LANCEL LANVIN LOEWE LONGCHAMP LOUIS VUITTON MARC JACOBS MIU MIU MCM PAUL SHARK PAUL SMITH PRADA ROGER VIVIER SMYTHSON STELLA MCCARTNEY TORY BURCH

……

154

㚓〙ট䍃 ϱ㈃㕦䉷 ḡ 4$"55* $)3*4501)& 1&5*5&"6

FERRAGAMO