Eyewear Issue 14

T H E

V I SI O N A RY

M AGA Z IN E

NICOLAS ROSEILLIER – COLIBRI, LÜBECK – LEE YULE – CHRISTIAN ME TZLER PORTFOLIO

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NICOLAS ROSEILLIER

Interview with the designer behind John Varvatos eyewear

EYEWEAR GOES SHOPPING Colibri & Rheingans Retail Profile

VINTAGE PAGES

Lee Yule Interview & Christian Metzler Portfolio

COLLECTION SHOOTS Issue 14

Face à Face, Colibris, Fleye, Ørgreen

T H E

V I SI O N A RY

M AGA Z IN E

NICOLAS ROSEILLIER – COLIBRI, LÜBECK – LEE YULE – CHRISTIAN ME TZLER PORTFOLIO

14

NICOLAS ROSEILLIER

Interview with the designer behind John Varvatos eyewear

EYEWEAR GOES SHOPPING Colibri & Rheingans Retail Profile

VINTAGE PAGES

Lee Yule Interview & Christian Metzler Portfolio

COLLECTION SHOOTS Issue 14

Face à Face, Colibris, Fleye, Ørgreen

WE CAME A LONG WAY Mein Weg führte aus Budapest über viele Umwege nach Köln, wo ich nun lebe und liebe.

Mein Name ist Julianna Csépe und seit dieser Ausgabe bin ich gemeinsam mit meinem Kollegen Tomaz Aquino für das Layout des Eyewear Magazines verantwortlich. Meine Leidenschaft gilt all den schönen Dingen im Leben: Schuhen (klar), dem Meer, schnellen Autos, roten Fingernägeln (die habe ich erfunden), Typographie, Mode, Kunst und natürlich liebevoll gestalteten Magazinen. Auch Tomaz ist einen weiten Weg gegangen, um im Hier und Jetzt beim Design von Print-Magazinen anzukommen. Tomaz ist Brasilianer, er kam nach Köln, um Design zu studieren. Das Layout-Repertoire des Fahrradfreaks mit der »Kann-man-mal-machen-Designmentalität« ist ebenso umfangreich wie das philosophische Werk seines berühmten Namensvetters Thomas von Aquin. Ich würde lediglich anmerken wollen, dass Tomaz in Bezug auf sein Äußeres leicht vorne liegt.

Uns beide verbindet die Leidenschaft dafür, Themen und Produkte im Layout modern und stilsicher zu platzieren.

Seit zwei Jahren unterstützt mich Tomaz bei der Gestaltung des Fashion Magazins Qvest, deren Erscheinungsbild ich nun schon seit sechs Jahren präge. Über den Auftrag, von nun an auch dem Eyewear Magazine unsere grafische Note aufzudrücken, freuen wir uns riesig. Beim grafischen Relaunch haben wir uns ein wenig an unserem tollen Vorgänger orientiert, ein wenig haben wir aber auch das Design verändert. Ich mag es klar und ruhig und ich reduziere hier und da schon mal, um anderen Dingen mehr Raum zu geben – immer nach meinem Prinzip »der Leser ist nicht blöd«.

Ich hoffe es gefällt und wünsche viel Spaß beim Blättern, Schmökern und Lesen!

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DRIVER‘S CHOICE COLLECTION – The luxury companion for the Mercedes-Maybach –

ACCESSORIES - EYEWEAR - LEATHER GOODS - SADDLERY MAYBACH Icons of Luxury GmbH | Germany | info@maybach-luxury.com | www.maybach-luxury.com www.maybach-shop.com | www.facebook.com/maybachluxury | www.twitter.com/maybachicons

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„Maybach“ and the „MM“ logo are subject to intellectual property protection owned by Daimler AG. They are used by MAYBACH Icons of Luxury GmbH under licence.

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design by made by

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HANDCRAFTED DANISH DESIGN ORGREENOPTICS.COM

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ray-ban.com

DISTRESSED WAYFARER Tried, tested and true.

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www.kbleyewear.eu

FOTO / GIANNI PISANO FRAME / NS001

FOTO / DONATO CASPARI FRAME / 100 BLACK

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CAZAL 656 × 644 × 642

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Jörg Brüggemann 48 hours with

W ELCOME photo samuli k ar ala

Strada del Sole »099« & »098«

EY EW EAR ISSUE 14

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Insight - employees of the issue

Sacha Tassilo Höchstetter, photographer Up until his 22nd birthday, Sacha had no idea how to properly work a camera. While studying psychology during the day, he invested his creative energy into DJ-ing. But when he came across an expressive photograph everything changed. Sacha decided to solely focus on photography. One thing led to another: After spending time in London and Berlin, Sacha moved to Sao Paolo, Brazil, for 14 years. The driven perfectionist has contributed works to glamorous magazines such as Vogue, Marie Claire, Elle, and now EYEWEAR. Sacha likes to compose shots with an over exaggerated, larger-than-life take on reality.

Experience his work in the two shoots for this issue, »Heat Up« (Pg. 68) and »Sol« (Pg. 134).

Insight - employees of the issue

Valérie Uckermann, St ylist Valérie found her calling as a stylist via a detour Stefan Kehl ,

into studying design. Fresh out of school, she designed fashion for numerous labels before tak-

Hair & Make-Up Artist

ing on a job as senior designer for the Basel Fashion Show.

The Schwarzwald region of Germany counts

On the side, she also contributed designs to inter-

among its main exports the famous cuckoo

national film productions and lectured at univer-

clocks – and not to forget hair & make-up artist

sity to the next generation of design students. Her

Stefan Kehl.

approach to working as a stylist is like the movie

Maybe his rural roots are the reason why Stefan

»Mission Impossible« – there is always something

likes to draw inspiration from the diversity and

missing that has to be found. A true master of

unique variations found in nature. He has made a

improvisation, Valérie worked on the »Extrava-

new home in the Big Apple with deep hooks into

gance« shoot (Pg. 106) at OPTI tradeshow, com-

the fashion and streetwear scenes. Asked about

bining all pieces into a coherent work of art.

the main reason for moving to New York, Stefan

Asked about her process, she admits to getting

said he wanted to move out of his comfort zone.

most of her ideas while driving. Judging by her

In the end, the move ended up being less dramatic

creative output,

for the seasoned traveler, whose work for adver-

her mind must be working in overdrive.

tisement, runway and magazine assignments had already taken him all across the globe. Producing the »New Fellas« shoot (Pg. 214) with photographer Angelika Buettner in NYC was a home game for Stefan.

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masthead

Editor in chief

Photographers

Stefan Dongus

Pascal Albandopulos

dongus@eyewear-magazine.com

Marie Bärsch

m: +49.(0)151.14271817

Angelika Buettner

T H E

V I SI O N A RY

M AGA Z IN E

Stefan Dongus Editor

Florian Grill

Jana Wenge

Ulrich Hartmann

wenge@eyewear-magazine.com

Sacha Tassilo Höchstetter Stefan Kapfer

Art Direction

Samuli Karala

Julianna Csépe

Marissa Roseillier

csepe@eyewear-magazine.com

Raphael Schmitz Christian Steinhausen

Graphic Tomaz Aquino

COVEr Publisher Monday Publishing GmbH

Glasses

Proofreading

Kamekestr. 20-22

Andy Wolf »4515«

Franca Rainer

50672 Köln

Photo

t: +49.(0)221.945267-11

Sacha Tassilo Höchstetter

Translation

f: +49.(0)221.945267-27

Styling

English Version

eyewear-magazine.com

Valérie Uckermann

Dirk Vogel

facebook.com/eyewearmagazine

Hair & Make-Up Pamela Schöntag &

Online Editor

CEOs

Tina Zehentmeier

Jana Wenge

Stefan Dongus,

Model

presse@eyewear-magazine.com

Holger von Krosigk

Kanani at Munich Models

Contributors

distribution

Alexander Dosiehn

DPV Network GmbH

Dirk Vogel

Postfach 570 412 22773 Hamburg dpv-network.de Print F&W Mediencenter GmbH Holzhauser Feld 2 83361 Kienberg fw-medien.de

EYEWEAR is published three times per year.

This magazine and all its contents may not be re-used, distributed or stored in electronic databases in any way without prior written permission from the publishers. All inquiries regarding the usage of copyrighted materials, as well as the reproduction of excerpts in other formats must be directed to the publishers. The opinions reflected in this magazine do not necessarily reflect those of the publishers. All rights reserved.

www.blac.dk

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highlights

E R I C K O ST O N X OAKLEY C O LL E C TI O N Eric Koston is one of the most naturally gifted – and influential – skateboarders of all time.

His career began in the streets of Los Angeles and schoolyards like the notorious Lockwood School, and has since taken him around the world. Applying his street-savvy design talent to sunglasses, Koston worked on an exclusive collection with his longtime eyewear sponsor O akle y , now available in a limited edition run. Combining the best of O akle y heritage and Koston’s unique vision, the focus is on functionality, quality and urban cool.

M Y K IT A MYLON Photographed in and around Los Angeles, the latest campaign for M yk i ta is set in front of the backdrop of modern-day California with its minimalist architecture, shiny turquoise swimming pools and Malibu beach scenes.

In the second collaboration with US-photographer Zoe Ghertner, the glasses make the leap from still life shots into richly composed action scenes. Worn by models at the beach, during workout sessions and out on the streets of Los Angeles, the M yk i ta collection is right at home in dreamy California.

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h i g h li g h ts

v onernst Designer Diane Bödrich is known for her stunning necklaces and spectacle chains. Her repertoire goes from delicate to robust links, from antique to minimalist styles, and from leather to metal, all the way to a combination of both.

Her impressive versatility is captured in the latest campaign photographs for upcoming Berlin label V onerns t . A model in the »best age« group shows off the goods with white hair and hip clothing, like a shining star in the middle of the dance floor. It’s right on trend, and a smart move – banking on timeless style and admitting to age in a time when the mantra of endless youth is starting to border on desperation.

WILL.I.AM EYEWEAR COLLEC TION X SLICK RICK The entertainer who goes by given name Wiliam James Adam Jr. has been turning heads with more than just hit records. Will.i.am also continues to dazzle his international fan community with extravagant looks and eyewear styles. His current collabo with hip-hop icon Slick Rick blends futuristic and avant-garde influences with unique material compositions.

The limited edition release features three unisex glasses in matted gray, black, and dark violet. »Slick Rick and myself share a deep appreciation for all artists.

We are fascinated by hip-hop culture and its evolution. That was the foundation for our collaboration.« Does it rock? You bet!

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the reason why

B a r t o n P e r r e i r a »Shire ll e «

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b u s t y w eek day, p a n t s m al ai k a r aiss

photos maren schabhüser photo a ssi s t ant claudio beelitz s t yl in g tu anh ngo a t bigoudi h air & m a ke - up dennis brandt a t blossom management u s in g chanel & bumble and bumble mod el luca aimee a t placemodels pos tp rod uc tion mario seyer

What makes a photograph perfect? To me, the true meaning of a perfect image is that is not perfect.

Perfection is boring. That’s the reason why I like to implement defects into my images. These can be blurs, sometimes reflections.

In this case, it is the natural element of water.

the reason why

Oliver Goldsmith ÂťN o r umÂŤ

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l e a t h e r- b o d y Fr anzisk a M i chael

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inter v ie w

TEN QUESTIONS

HAPTER i nt e r vie w DIRK VOGEL

ÂťM 0 2 M ÂŤ

When Italian eyewear aficionados Eric Balzan and Mirko Forti started their own brand HAPTER in 2013, they set their sights on reaching higher ground: Inspired by high-altitude Alpine exploration, the young brand went off the beaten path in search of alternative manufacturing resources and materials.

inter v ie w

»M03M«

How would you describe the philosophy behind HAPTER in a nutshell?

A minimal and discrete mix of advanced design and natural materials, fused together through unique manufacturing alchemies.

HAPTER draws strong inspiration from mountaineering and military influences. What attracted you to these fields?

Our hometown Belluno is a small town nestled in the Italian Dolomite mountains. We evolved the idea of the mountain from being a rocky and snowy playground for climbing and snowboarding to being sort of a mystical place.

How did you arrive at the brand’s signature combination of stainless steel and fabrics?

The initial spark was the first military goggle from World War I, which we discovered in 2009. It is fully made of canvas fabric, totally unstructured. We have worked hard to develop the same feeling within a contemporary eyewear collection.

INTERVIEW

» G 0 2 M«

You’ve already won a number of prestigious awards.

What were some of the most important milestones after founding the company?

The first merit was the 2013 iF Product Design Award, which was given to us even before founding the company! Then the 2014 German Design Award came in, and the freshly announced 2014 U.S. Good Design Award. Then specifically in the optical segment, the 2014 Hong Kong Gold V-Award, and we were also happy about the Silmo d’Or nominations in 2013 and 2014.

What attracted you to eyewear and how has your creative process evolved over the years?

The sexy combination of inspirational design, materials and functionality, with all the connected challenges, made this complex system so attractive to us.

How many pieces of eyewear have you created so far?

Not many really, it is a well-balanced but still limited collection, somehow private and dedicated to the most selective stores.

INTERVIEW

What is the hardest part about designing eyewear for HAPTER? Forget about traditional eyewear design! H apter is a skeleton of functional design combined with a skin of artisanal materials, developed out of an unprecedented production process.

Your production process is rather unique and complex‌ and secret.

Yes, it’s secret so I cannot tell you much (laughs). It took us three years to put together the secret network of partner labs, all of them trained and now specialized in a specific service for H apter .

What separates your label from other eyewear manufacturers?

H apter is somehow a carrier of cultural and artisanal experiences of unique value, developed out of centuries of artisanal know-how, brought to the present day market thanks to design and new manufacturing processes.

Which current eyewear trends would you like to see more of? What trend needs to go away sooner than later?

Keeping in mind the ultimate goal of being authentic, we prefer to avoid cross-influences that can only corrupt the pureness and originality of our project.

Thank you for the interview.

Please visit eyewear-magazine.com to read the full-length interview with Hapter.

collec tion shoot

ÂťStel l a Pol a r i s ÂŤ

Danish eyewear Ă˜rgreen is going back to its roots this year with a renewed focus on the sunglasses segment, where it all started in 1997. Once again, the Copenhagen-based label connects with the zeitgeist by offering strong shapes and colorways that are bound to resonate with contemporary audiences.

The new models are perfectly at home on fashion runways from Milan to Paris, just as much as on the city streets this upcoming summer season.

COLLECTION SHOOT

» B a l t ha za r«

showtime ørgr een Sun 2015

photos stefan k apfer s t ylin g carla baer h a i r & m a ke - up simone kostian a t 21 agency mo d el s valentina, ke vin & lynn re touch postroom.de p ro duc t ion h60office.com 37

COLLECTION SHOOT

» Zel d a «

» Ca p ote «

collec tion shoot

» Pus s y G a l ore «

» On a ssis«

collec tion shoot

» Pal m a Lova «

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Introducing the Contour Collection The lens shape is the very core of the design of a glasses frame.

By placing a beta-titanium rim around the lens shape we wish to emphasise the unique character of the glasses.

w w w. f l e y e . d k

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thirst

By Ulr ich Hart mann

s t yl in g jennifer mer tens h air & m a ke - up janine pritschow re touch lea antoniadou mod el mari hansen a t bossmodels cape town 42

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Esprit »ET174 69 «

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d r e s s co u t u r e o n e, j e a n s cot to n o n 43

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Fleye ÂťV i g gaÂŤ

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Hapter »M 03M «

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Markus T ÂťT 2 . 6 4 4 ÂŤ

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j u m p e r r eb ecc a sa m m ler , h e e l s s t e v e m ad d en, b a n g l e s n i k k i lo u 46

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Markus T »T 2 . 6 4 6X«

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b o d y y d e, t u n i c m ar cel os t er tag , c a p ava n g li o n 47

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i -s pa x ÂťR ain e rÂŤ

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j e a n s cot to n o n 48

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Moscot »Le mtosh Wo o d«

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Martin & Martin ÂťR up e r tÂŤ

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s i l k d r e s s r eb ecc a sa m m ler , n e c k l a c e to p sh o p 50

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Martin & Martin »R up e r t«

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b o d y y d e, b a n g l e s n i k k i lo u 51

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Oakley »Sli ve r«

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LINDA/HAIR STYLIST/ WEARS DESIGN 100% Handmade in Germany

awa r d

proper horny photos R aphael Schmitz

LINDBERG W INS PR EST IGIOUS WALLPAPER MAGAZINE AWAR D

It’s always great to see when hard work is rewarded with proper recognition. Three years ago, Danish eyewear company L i ndberg – best known for design excellence in upscale materials like titanium, acetate, gold, and platinum – started offering buffalo horn glasses.

It was a bold move into unknown territory. A move that has now been recognized with the 2015 W all paper magazi ne design award for »Best Technique«.

At the award ceremony at Bonham’s auction House in London on January 15, company founder Henrik Lindberg rubbed elbows with the world’s leading creative influencers, including W allpaper editorin-chief Tony Chambers.

In the article announcing the award in the current issue, W allpaper attests that the L i ndberg glasses are »proper horny.« The magazine writes the horn collection’s praises as follows: »The company uses specially treated laminated strips of buffalo horn, bonded with its secret recipe glue. And, in the latest collection, L i ndberg has matched it with a titanium nose bridge, temples and hinges to create specs that offer horn’s unique glow and colouration but with unprecedented lightness, sleekness and comfort.« Congratulations!

awa r d

» H or n 1823«

»Hor n 1824«

» Hor n 1818«

designer interview

the journey of

Nicolas Roseillier International menswear, accessories, and fragrance brand John Varvatos operates at the crossroads between art, music, and fashion. At the intersection between timeless classics and contemporary designs with an unmistakable pedigree, infused with a solid dose of rock 'n' roll bravado. This is also where L.A.-based designer Nicolas Roseillier, the man in charge of the label’s eyewear program, feels most at home.

EYEWEAR magazine caught up with the cosmopolitan creative at one of his favorite spots in the City of Angels.

designer Interview

int e r v ie w Dirk Vogel photos Marissa Roseillier

As stories of urban renewal go, the Arts District in

programs. Fresh out of school, he moved to New York

Downtown Los Angeles is without precedent. Over the

with his business partner to pursue the art life. »We

past few years, a good dozen city blocks of derelict urban

moved to New York with two suitcases and almost no

wasteland have been transmuted into a thriving hotbed

money. I refer to it as the most creative time, because we

of creativity, commerce, and yes, art. Art is everywhere.

had nothing to worry about, expect being broke. But we

It’s on murals along brick-lined buildings, the walls of

always found a way to afford the tab at the bar.«

pop-up galleries and studios, the roofs of loft tenements.

At first, Nicolas scraped by on random assignments and

There’s something in the air, an almost palpable current

odd jobs. Putting up art installations, consulting for

of energy and inspiration. And Nicolas Roseillier, eye-

brands on design projects – including Bevel Spectacle and

wear designer for internationally renowned menswear

Scojo Vision – and tending bar. This was how he learned

brand John Varvatos, is eating it up. Literally.

English and met his wife, Marissa, who shot the portraits

Sinking his teeth into a Kielbasa sausage sandwich at

for this interview. Then a business connection brought

»Wurstküche«,

the world of eyewear into full focus: M odo E ye we ar

a next-wave American fast food joint with a German

wanted his design expertise for an upcoming collection.

name, the French-born designer is in his element. »This

»I had to learn eyewear really fast! And I realized it was

street did not look this way only two years ago, so much

way more technical than I thought«, he remembers.

has changed! There are two new stores just on this

»I realized it was going to take a little bit longer, also be-

block with men’s fashion and accessories, and all kinds

cause glasses are medical devices. It took a lot of studying

of restaurants«, he says, dressed in the vernacular of

and figuring this thing out.« Which he did: During his

rock’n’roll in skinny jeans, striped suit vest over a worn-

four-year tenure as creative designer for M odo E ye we ar ,

in gray tee, paired with an unlined dark sports coat and

Nicolas designed successful re-launch collections for

fedora.

D erek L am and 3.1 P h i lli p L i m , while also opening the

»There is a store here just for sheets, bedding, and pil-

first M odo retail store in New York. Nicolas had officially

lows. Very industrial shelving and reclaimed wood,

arrived in the eyewear world.

everything inside is white, light brown, light beige and gray. It’s really striking. That’s a source

II. The brand: John Varvatos

of inspiration – even for eyewear,« Nicolas beams. From

In 2009, Roseillier’s work caught the eye of L.A.-based

there, the conversation moves across the world of eye-

REM E ye we ar , designers of licensed eyewear for Con-

wear, traversing into architecture, art, style, and – since

verse, Jones New York, Lucky Brand, and John Varvatos.

Nicolas came to talk about John Varvatos – the under-

After visiting REM in Los Angeles, Nicolas decided to

lying current behind it all: rock’n’roll. It’s all part of the

make the move out West. »I really believe that when

journey for Nicolas Roseillier; all part of the inspiration

things are meant to be, it just rolls. And that was one

that keeps his work moving forward. But let’s start at the

of those situations. It felt just so natural and easy«, he

beginning.

says. The main draw, Nicolas explains, was the chance to design for John Varvatos, whose followers include

I. The Designer

rock’n’roll A-listers such as KISS, Iggy Pop, Alice Coo-

Nicolas Roseillier happened upon the international eye-

per, Perry Farrell, ZZ Top, The Roots, Velvet Revolver

wear design

and Lenny Kravitz.

stage through the side door. Having studied engineering

»John was one of the reasons I took the job, because I

in his native Normandy, he moved to Paris to attend art

always loved the collection and followed the brand for

school, followed by architecture and industrial design

designer interview

»V204« The »V204« is a frame that has a unique shape that’s contoured to perfection. It’s inspired by vintage styling and features highly polished framework. The V204 also introduces the new colorway, Havana Tortoise, for John Varvatos Eyewear.

years«, Nicolas said. »When I met John for the first time,

funny enough, it always kind of matches the rest of what

I remember waiting in his office, which is like the Mu-

he is doing with boots, and jackets, and leather trims. But

seum of Rock’n’Roll History. There are photos of all his

it’s never made to match, it just comes from the same old

rock star friends on the walls and shelves, like Steven

school, rock’n’roll aesthetic.«

Tyler giving

It’s a living, breathing part of company culture at J ohn

the finger, and music books everywhere. And there are

V arvatos , as rock icons present the major form of inspi-

two club chairs and between them is a guitar with Slash’s

ration. »Over the years I met a lot of rock’n’roll legends

hat on top!«

through John. I met Steve Tyler, Iggy Pop and even Ringo

The two designers formed an instant connection, and

Starr. My wife and I are big Beatles fans. We got married

almost immediately settled into a unique collaborative

to a Beatles song, our first son is named Jude and our

process. »From the first moment until today, we never

second son is named Jagger, after the Stones. It was a big

really talk about glasses. We talk about architecture and

moment meeting Ringo«, said Nicolas. »He was very nice

photography. John was very good friends with [rock

and approachable. But I kept thinking, ›Will somebody

music] photographer Jim Marshall, who gifted him the

punch me in the face right now?! I’m having a conver-

contact sheets for a lot of his work over the years, and

sation with Ringo Starr!‹ And the best part was, he was

we look closely at the images«, Nicolas said. »John and I

already wearing a lot of our frames. So a lot of these guys

talk about details and it’s never really about the glasses

we work with, they’re already fans. They get it. They get

themselves – more like a general mood. But in the end,

the idea of what the brand is!«

designer Interview

»V205« The »V205« is a flawless, wearable frame that’s a timeless design for the John Varvatos consumer. It features customrivet hinges – synonymous with the Soho Collection – and an elevated level of polished, tailored design. The temples also showcase a custom core wire pattern inspired by 13th century Ottoman Empire architecture.

III. The collections

Nicolas emphasizes is not a traditional licensing model,

When it comes to designing new pieces for such a storied

but a direct collaboration at eye level – has matured into

brand,

four separate collections:

Nicolas follows a two-pronged approach. »For me there is always the muse and then there is the customer. The muse 1. Icon Collection. »Built around the ›JV‹ icon for ›John Varvatos‹, these are is one of our rock’n’ roll legends«, Nicolas explains, pointing out an old Jim

our classic,

Marshall

easy-to wear frames. Really the essence of what the

photograph of Bob Dylan wearing almost feminine cat

brand has stood for since the founding in 2000, and what

eye shades, which Nicolas brought back with a twist last

we grew everything else from.«

February in Milan. And who’s the customer? »The customer is basically the guy who would have loved to be a

2. Bowery Collection.

rock’n’roller, but happens to be an accountant.

»The idea was based on the Bowery music scene in New

Maybe he jams on the weekends and he loves rock’n’roller York, where and everything, it just wasn’t in his destiny. But he’s still John bought the old »CBGB« [music club]. John loved the rocking!«

guitar-

Over the years, the J ohn V arvatos E ye we ar offering –

shaped hinges detail on the frames and also used it on

which

designer interview

zipper pullers on bags and other items. And details such as the bullets on the front – first used for a limited edition for John’s 10th anniversary – keep that rock’n’roll language going around it.« 3. Soho Collection. »These glasses are more refined, rounder, with rivets engraved with two ›V‹s for Varvatos. Inspiration comes from the Soho store, John’s first store opened in 2000. Styles are a little bit more tailored, more refined, in the way people in an old European city like Milan dress in a very fine suit. It’s more low profile and the sunglasses are polarized.

That part of the collection has been doing unbelievable and above what we expected!« 4. Artisan Collection. »John always looks at the past to create the future. So he always looks at craftsmanship and artisan techniques and really goes back to old school Japanese craftsmanship, with lots of technique and detailing in the glasses. And the sunglasses feature anti-reflective coating.«

All frames are produced in Japan, with a spread of 60/40 between optical and sunglasses models. Every year, Nicolas and John Varvatos add new designs to the four pillars. »It’s been an amazing collaboration over the years and we really have that same way of thinking about details. Having those four collections really gives us an all-around story. It took time to refine that, but now these four segments give us the perfect road map«, says Nicolas.

Speaking of a road map, as our lunch interview in the L.A. Arts District draws to a close, we ask Nicolas where his design journey is headed. Taking a deep breath and absorbing the scenery one last time, he says: »It’s really about what lasts forever. The frame that stays in your drawer and years later you pull it out and say, ›I love that frame and it still fits perfectly. It’s made well, and the design was done right.‹ There is disposable fashion and there are things that are here to stay. And that’s what I work towards with John Varvatos.«

RUBRIK

W O O D E N E Y E W E A R F O R E V E R YO N E

by WooDone

63

collec tion Check

Operating out of a manor estate office in the countryside near Copenhagen, Danish eyewear label FLEYE has built an international following with progressive styles, vibrant colors, and state-of-the-art materials.

On the eve of FLEYE’s latest release, the Contour collection, EYEWEAR asked for a sneak preview. Here’s our fine looking Collection Check

Ari A sporty, oversized men’s model. »Ari«’s discrete diagonal pattern is one of the design details that give this model its own unique character. The cylinder-shaped acetate temples are a trademark of Fleye sunglasses. .

collec tion Check

Herdis Big, bold and contemporary frame featuring a beautifully curved top line to flatter the face. Soft, hand-drawn fluid patterns and neutral colors inspired by nature soften the strength of this feminine design.

Gro The soft curves on the »Gro« draw attention to the feminine features of the face.

A Fleye classic designed to highlight and flatter the female face.

In a way, the world of eyewear is like the music busi-

And how has the new »Contour« collection evolved

ness: You’re only as good as your last hit. Over the last

this design aesthetic?

few years, Danish eyewear label F le ye – short for »Fine

In terms of comfort, the collection is in beta-titanium,

Looking EYE« – has delivered some chart breakers. The

a fantastic material we love to use due to its flexibility

light-weight, allergy-friendly, innovative frames with

and lightness. Our

the signature beta-titanium nose pad wire have been

curiosity went into product and material develop-

crowned with the 2013 Red Dot Design Award, not to

ment. This time we have developed a new feature for

mention three consecutive

the frames: a beta titanium rim that follows the shape

merits as »Eyewear of the Year« by IOFT optical fair in

of the lens and in which you mount the lens. And for a

Japan. What’s next on the playlist? The brand’s design

sense of contrast, the rim enables a two-colored frame.

manager, Matilda Sundén Ringnér, gives an advance peek

How many models are part of your new collection?

at the upcoming »Contour« collection.

Are there separate gender models or mostly unisex pieces?

Hello Matilda, how would you summarize the design

When designing a collection we always have our users

philosophy behind FLEYE in a few words?

and customers in mind and follow a clear strategy of

First of all comfort, with light, flexible and adjustable

how many male, female, unisex, and sun models the

products. Then contrast in color and material. And also

collection should contain. In this particular collection,

curiosity – we always look for new materials or new

there are four female, four unisex and two male mod-

ways to use existing materials.

els.

Why so few male models? And what about the spread

collec tion Check

Erni »Erni« is an elegant unisex model offered in a range of colors from classic black to the more distinctive contrasting color combinations.

Eddi A modern version of a true Fleye unisex classic. »Eddi« gets a new feel with a contemporary color palette and a fine striped design on some of the models.

of sunglasses to RX?

we use them consistently in all our merchandise ma-

The reason for the few male models is that most of our

terial. But for the collections we use any colors that are

male models also work for women, so they end up be-

contemporary and work for the season and concept.

ing called unisex models. In our collections we always

In this collection we put focus on our new ultra mat

have more optical designs than sunglasses, since we

colors that have a really nice depth.

consider ourselves as an optical brand with sunglasses

The beta-titanium nose pad wire on all frames has

and not the other way around.

already won

That makes sense. So what is your personal favorite,

a »Red Dot Design award«. Please tell us a little more

Matilda?

about this

The Kaja and Nima. Kaja because the rest of the design

hit feature and what role it plays in the latest collec-

team didn’t really believe in it from the start, but it

tion.

turned out to be a really flattering shape with just the

Our characteristic nose pad wire that loops through

right amount of attitude and femininity, when put on

the nose bridge is something we use for all our frames

a face. The Nima because I really love the contrast be-

– no matter if it’s acetate, carbon, wood or horn. It’s

tween the softness and retro feel of the shape and the

a nice, minimalistic design that allows an adjustable

sharpness and modernity of the material.

nose construction and has been an ID for

Color combinations and bright accents have always

F le ye frames. The »Contour« Collection also has

been a big part of the FLEYE look. What are the most

adjustable nose pads, but the wire design is different

important color themes in this collection?

because the frames themselves are made with beta-ti-

Black, white, blue and orange are our brand colors, and

tanium.

collec tion Check

Ka j a Feminine fusion of the cat-eye shape and the iconic 1950s panto style. »Kaja« is a chic design with just the right amount of attitude.

Gabi »Gabi «blends a classic female shape with contemporary details and daring color combinations.

Some styles have a subtle diagonal pattern to give them an extra edge.

COLLECTION CHECK

It seems like you always put an emphasis on bold,

I try not to look so much at the eyewear industry, since

thicker lines in frames that are still light-weight due

it limits my imagination and makes me focus on the

to the materials. Does that apply to the ÂťContourÂŤ

wrong things. But in general, I think those who will

collection?

have the biggest success are the ones that are innova-

There is always a mix of bold and more minimalistic

tive when it comes to materials and at the same time

styles in each collection. The materials we use ensure

have the know-how to design frames that not only

that even a frame that is visually bold/heavy is never

look good on the shelves but also on a face.

heavy to wear. This is also a nice contrast and for new

Thanks for the interview and sneak peek at the collec-

customers often a positive and surprising experience.

tion, Matilda.

In the bigger picture, what is the advantage of being an independent eyewear label based in Denmark?

Denmark is known for its great design tradition. Even though it’s a small country, lots of great designs have been developed here.

Today, Denmark is part of the New Nordic and Scandinavian design movement that has a lot of influence on the trends we see around the globe.

When you look at eyewear in 2015, what are the most important trends you are noticing?

COLLECTION CHECK

N i ma Chunky sunglasses in a unisex design. Some styles have a bold, checked pattern to give them even more personality. Colors are a mix of shiny metals and soft natural tones..

Marin Inspired by the original aviator, this is an innovative new Fleye design crafted using modern-day production methods.

The rim outlining the contour of the lens shape emphasizes the stylish and innovative look.

new label

Wood cr af t ed in sou t her n t y rol

photos raphael schmitz

» M i l a no«

» R i o«

new label

» Am s te rd a m «

»Syd ne y«

For the next step in brand evolution, high-grade wooden eyewear manufacturers W oo D one are introducing their new sub-label: M y W oodi . This latest offering from the South Tyrol region combines colors, character, and an affordable price into one sleek package.

The first collection consists of twelve models – five sun-

The company’s two CEOs, Klaus Tavella and Thomas

glasses and seven prescription models – crafted from six

Oberegger, together with their new partner Alexander

types of wood. Created from eight layers of wood veneer,

Fischnaller see M y W oodi as another step in revolution-

the collection is marked by fresh, fashionable colorways.

izing the market for quality wooden eyewear. Building

Manufacturing each of the incredibly lightweight frames

on the success and brand equity of W oo D one , M y W oo -

– only 13 grams! – requires a 60-step process, with 15

will be in a position to offer perfectly manufactured

manual steps. The overall aesthetics are completed by a

di

wood glasses at a fair price, without compromising the

concealed hinge on the temples for a weightless, natural

quality.

look.

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styling david pollack hair & make-up paulo filiatier model fabiana semprebom at joy models

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Prada »PR 50 RS « 74

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Oliver Peoples »Jai d e « 75

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htp.de

OWP Brillen GmbH, www.metropolitan-eyewear.de

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www.facebook.com/metropolitan.eyewear

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r e ta i l p r o f i l e

Colibri RHeingans photos stefan dongus

Ger man op t ical cr af tsmanship, Nort her n st y le

For this issue’s Retail Profile, we ventured to the picturesque Northern German port town of Lübeck on the Trave river. After centuries as the leading city of the Hanseatic League, Lübeck still dazzles visitors with historic treasures.

In order to set the scene for our photo shoot, we met with the two store founders, Wolfgang Reckzeh and Walter Hermann, in front of the storied Holstentor gate in the old town, before talking about their contemporary take on eyewear craftsmanship.

Hello Walter and Wolfgang! What have been the high-

been on my mind.

lights of your week so far?

In terms of business, I was occupied with implement-

Walter: There was a strong storm here by the seaside

ing our 3D-refraction process and the overwhelming

that really tossed people around for a bit. And other

response it’s been getting from our customers.

than that, I made my first experience with refraction

Lübeck ranges among a select few cities with an

on an extremely demented elderly lady, which as an

entire city center recognized by UNESCO as a World

emotionally moving encounter. It was a challenge to

Heritage Site. What’s your personal relationship to

guide her through the measuring process while giving

the town?

her the feeling of having made an outstanding accom-

Wolfgang: Lübeck is the adopted home town of both

plishment.

of our families. It’s a large enough town to host events

Wolfgang: In my private life, my younger daughter’s

such as poetry slams and Scandinavian film festivals,

16th birthday and the question of growing up have

but also maintains the kind of intimacy and manage-

r e ta i l p r o f i l e

Nex t to a ll t he won d er fu l h isto r ic sites o f Lü b ec k ’s o l d tow n , Wo l fg a n g a n d Wa l te r ’s e ye we a r bi c yc l e i s a ma jo r att rac ti on for to ur ist s a nd resid ent s a like.

able size that has you meeting familiar faces on walks

back to life. That’s how my personal needs lead me

around town. It’s a city full of historic atmosphere and

into a new occupation.

an air of Danish nonchalance.

Wolfgang: After an internship from school at a ma-

What brought you into the optical trade?

chine con-

Walter: Throughout the 1970s, eyewear fashion fo-

struction firm, I knew that I would prefer working

cused on a gigantic form language and tended to offer

with clean hands in the future. And as fate would have

much room for improvement from the perspective of

it, my cousin menti-

someone with extremely myopic vision. In short, all

oned that an optician in the town of Northeim was

my glasses at the time were much too large and heavy.

looking for an apprentice. She knew from his son, who

Looking for a solution, I scouted flea markets for gold-

was in her class at school.

framed panto shapes, and my local optician offered to let me use his workshop to bring these »old« frames

You both had your start working for other opticians.

r e ta i l p r o f i l e

Th e » Colibr i« sto re offe rs q u ick a n d cu sto m er- o r iented s e r v i ce i n th e s i gn o f th e h u mmi n g bi rd.

What provided the spark for opening your own store?

Walter: We were both used to working independent-

Walter: Creative, fashionable, reliable, curious, and competent.

ly, so we took the opportunity to realize our dream.

What’s the philosophy behind »Colibri?« How do you

Opening our own store has brought us the freedom

stand out from other opticians?

to actively shape our own professional life and family

Wolfgang: Every encounter with a customer is

situation.

unique and intense. It’s a challenge to present the cus-

Please provide us with a short back story for your

tomer with a multitude of choices and finding the per-

store, »Colibri«?

fect solution together. But we welcome the challenge.

Wolfgang: C oli br i is an acronym for our key com-

Walter: Customer expectations translate into tasks

petencies, blending the German words for »contact

which we set out to master and excel at. Our goal is al-

lens fitting« and »eyewear counseling« into one catchy

ways finding a 120% solution. And if we end up »only«

moniker. And we also like the nimble and agile species

delivering 100%, we’re still satisfied.

of hummingbird, called »colibri« in German, which we

Along the way, what have been the greatest challeng-

used for our logo. Our approach is creativity blended

es for »Colibri«?

with cutting-edge technology, which we implement

Walter: The changes. Every new employee, and every

in our daily work. Every innovation along the way has

redesign and reorganization has been an enrichment

brought us one step closer to our customers.

for us. It’s the small victories and experiences that

Which five words would you use to sum up your busi-

make the whole seem a lot bigger than the sum of its

ness?

parts.

r e ta i l p r o f i l e

Wh ve rtentor, Wa lter die is n soieb t b uen sy got p roischen gra m m Kir in g ch h ist üin - stoure l i pe d i abr « dilata s e, h e’s u pWol to af lga l kng i n dus nd o f Wa th i nl ter g s, si i nnd c l u di ng :UN ESCO das Dase ne Hols r me nd» Co das Maß lenba -Mobil von laut ur ba n bea ut ificat io n . prägende Bild der L ü b e c ker Alt s t adt .

How large is the share of independent brands in your

these stories to the needs of our customers and like to

line-up?

create our own images.

Wolfgang: We have always enjoyed exchanging ideas

What are your strategies for acquiring and retaining

with other creatives at tradeshows and our internal

customers?

workshops. So it’s to no surprise that more than half of

Wolfgang: Customers should always be thrilled

our current product selection comes from independent

during a visit

and individual brands.

to our store. In order to offer this kind of experience,

And what type of glasses are the best sellers at »Co-

we always monitor our level of service and behavior.

libri«?

We always offer the latest products. We offer commu-

Wolfgang: We like to sell spring steel models to

nication training to our employees and always take the

customers with high demands for flexible, lightweight

time to offer customers a comprehensive analysis with

glasses. But we also focus on screw-less frames and

authentic, individual counseling. And our efforts are

eyewear from alternative materials. And for petite

being rewarded with recommendations from a word-

faces, we like to sell our own brand, Colibris.

of-mouth culture reaching far beyond our city.

The large global eyewear conglomerates are increas-

Your »custom eyewear bike« is a great idea. Who built

ingly buying up successful brands, and also taking

it and what do you use it for?

on a bigger role in the retail segment. How are you

Wolfgang: We created the custom eyewear ride to

holding your ground as independent opticians?

make the experience of customized eyewear tangible

Walter: Every brand transports a message. We adapt

for our customers. We bought the heavy-duty cargo

r e ta i l p r o f i l e

Wolfgang Reckzeh

Walter Hermann

age: 54 born in: Bad Gandersheim

age: Forever young … in my mid-50ies boren in: Flensburg

»I’m a master optician with a passion for eyewear and a wonderful wife and two daughters of whom I’m very proud.«

»I maintain a constant curiosity and always look behind the scenes at the bigger picture. My family is at the center of everything I do..«

r e ta i l p r o f i l e

bicycle in the Netherlands, and added all hand-crafted

to every employee at each of the computers at our store

extensions in Lübeck. And since service and mainte-

for finding relevant information. This goes from price

nance are crucial parts of the experience for eyewear

lists to holiday schedules all the way to forms needed for

customers, the bike also features a ventilette and an

the prescription process. I mean, EVERYTHING is avail-

ultrasonic bath. Over the years, we have created two

able inside the »Colipedia«.

rides – a modern and a traditional one, which can also

You have recently added 3D-refractioning to your capac-

be rented by customers.

ities. Is it a gimmick or a real technical advantage?

Walter: During the summer, we set up the bike in the

Wolfgang: We tend to perceive our environment in

pedes-

three dimensions, so it can only be a benefit when we

trian precinct in front of our Rheingans store. And we

offer this new measuring technology to our customers.

also make

Spending time at your store, the easy, familiar at-

a habit of randomly popping up all over town, always

mosphere between you and your employees clearly

causing much excitement.

shines through. What makes your employees feel

You always keep a close eye on the market. And we

comfortable at work?

heard that you gather your findings in a secret »Coli-

Walter: We emphasize a good team spirit, most of all

pedia«. What’s the story?

because customers can feel when employees treat one

Walter: In an age where socializing in the digital

another with respect. Employees develop self confidence

world is becoming a must, we have created our own

when their strengths and talents are supported. And by

internal communications tool. It’s a resource available

actively taking part business processes, they develop a

RETAIL PROFILE

strong sense of identity.

Team spirit is also important for the entire work atmosphere.

This kind of attitude also offers a great opportunity for mid-sized optical businesses to defend their competitive edge in the market.

About two years ago, you took over the Rheingans store in a parallel street. What was your motivation?

Wolfgang: The R hei ngans optical store has been in business for decades, offering traditional Northern German craftsmanship and added value. The location and the ambience with original 1960s furniture create a unique charm. We are glad to ensure the survival of the original store front while adding individually crafted custom eyewear to the product mix. And we’re especially happy that Mr. Rheingans himself, now 82 years old, continues to play an active role in the operation.

What makes Rheingans different from »Colibri«?

Walter: Rheingans offers a broad spectrum of eyewear, from classically oriented collections such as Oliver Peoples and Lunor together with custom-made eyewear. Meanwhile, C oli br i adds colorful and modern designer pieces to the mix, so separating the two with different locations was only logical. Both have their place, and customers appreciate our decision.

Are there plans for adding more stores? In Lübeck or in other towns?

Wolfgang: You should never say »never«, and new challenges can be an enriching experience. Plus, there are plenty of fields outside the optical trade. Perhaps we will meet some visionaries in our business who are looking to work on new projects together.

Sounds like an open invitation. Both of you are equal partners in the business, right? How do you divide responsibilities?

Walter: Based on our strengths, we have divided up the segments of marketing, HR, business adminis-

RETAIL PROFILE

Just one minute fro m it s sister sto re » Co lib r i«, a vis i t to » R h e i n g a n s « ta k e s yo u ba c k to 1 9 6 0 s.

tration, and supplier support. But we develop strategic goals and special projects together. For extra kicks, we like to reflect on these with colleagues from other cities.

What do you most appreciate about each other?

Wolfgang: Walter has the special ability to view and approach things from a different, philosophical perspective. This always lends a breath of fresh air to pre-established processes. And I also appreciate the calm composure he exudes, even in the most stressful situations. C oli br i regularly supports cultural events in the town of Lübeck, so we need someone who takes the podium during speeches. For which Walter is the man. We’re getting close to celebrating the »silver wedding« anniversary of our business. We would have never made it without blind trust in each other and complementing our strengths.

Walter: After almost 25 years of building our business together, I’m especially glad that Wolfgang still musters up untiring energy and the will to confront new impulses to turn into new projects.

His reliability and willingness to take risks are the keys to our long-term business relationship. And overall, Wolfgang is just a great guy.

Sounds like a great match. How about your vision? Where do you see »Colibri« in the year 2020?

Walter: Colibri has already become a brand of its own, and an attitude. In the year 2020, Colibri will have become synonymous with finding customer-oriented solutions, as well as a sure hand for fashion and aesthetics. When someone asks, »How are you feeling?«, you can just say, »Colibri!«

INTERVIEW

kuboraum photos raphael schmitz & stefan dongus

What could be better than sitting down with the world’s leading creative minds and learning first-hand about their processes and inner workings?

And if you’re anything like us, the more extravagant and forward-thinking, the better.

In this issue of EYEWEAR, we sit down with Sergio Eusebi, co-founder as well as brand & marketing director of the unique Kuboraum brand.

Hi Sergio! What are three keywords to emotionally describe your eyewear?

Amazement, authentic feeling, evolution.

Please explain what the name »Kuboraum« means and where it comes from? »Kuboraum« is a syncretism of the German words »cubic« and »room«. My co-founder Livio [Graziottin] liked the idea of having a project which is accurate, solid, square, like a piece of architecture: »kubo«. And I liked the idea to be Livio’s loudspeaker, Livio’s room of resonance!

Therefore, we picked »raum«. So within the room of our studio in Berlin, the K uboraum project was born.

Every »mask«, as we call all our pieces of eyewear, is your own »Cubic Room«. Your own intimate architecture where you can shelter yourselves free to live all your identities in the »game of the mask«.

That’s a far-out, creative way to look at eyewear – a game of masks. Where do you take your overall inspiration?

Livio’s work provides a deep background. He was traveling around the world meeting cultures,

INTERVIEW

» M ask Z2«

»M a s k Z3«

»M ask Z1«

INTERVIEW

tribes, artisans. In his work you can find old traditional manufactures remixed together with an aesthetic that’s in between something antique and something coming from the future. Something never seen before! I did study anthropology, human beings; the differences and the cultures are my passion and to work with Livio, creating stories, traveling and creatively tripping is my main inspiration.

What’s the hardest part about designing eyewear?

I think anyone who finds it hard better shall do something else. Livio works really freely and when you see him creating – everything is light, natural and full of emotions.

Which designer has made a lasting impact on you?

Livio Graziottin.

Your products are made in Italy and dreamed up in Berlin: Where does your heart feel at home?

Not in Germany, not in Italy … Just in Berlin.

What attracted to you to Berlin as a location for Kuboraum?

We were both going to Berlin because we were attracted by this city which is still an island. It’s not Germany, not Europe … You have endless space, a sense of freedom, everybody is different in Berlin and not canceling out their differences. Instead, everybody enjoys the differences of the others, because only with the differences of the others we are able to know ourselves. Berlin is a place with more consciousness.

What’s a word to describe the person who wears »Kuboraum«?

Ready.

What separates »Kuboraum« from other eyewear manufactures?

Livio was always an avant-gardiste, so in terms of manufactures we are going our own way without looking towards what was or what needs to be done. Within three years since our brand was born, we developed so many new manufactures never done before which now are part of our identity, of our DNA. Like for example for the Burnt series, or the embroidery of the Evening collection, or how we use the silver and gold in masks and for all the special new treatments which makes every masks unique. And so on … In terms of identity and design, we start from another concepts, we don’t make glasses, we make masks.

Our language is closer to the language of art and identity of human beings than to the language of glasses and industrial design.

Out of all the glasses you created, which on is your favorite piece?

I think that the new »X6« and »M6« models. Then I also love our entire »Silver Burnt« Collection, because I think it’s the maximum expression of the concept of doing masks and especially of Livio’s language.

What would you be doing if it wasn’t for eyewear design?

I would write a book.

Where do you see »Kuboraum« headed in the future?

We travel to know our own geography.

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SELECTION

Tortie Sha The roaring 1970s were the golden age of tortoiseshell frames, derived – true to their name – from the shell of hawksbill turtles. Soon enough, the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species stepped in, outlawing the practice. Nevertheless, a classic was born and the distinct grain – now mostly synthetic –remains in high demand.

Invu »T1502B «

It’s a beautiful day: This summer belongs to all the hippie and gipsy girls.

O li v e r G ol d s m it h »H a m ps te a d «

For everyone spending spring time at home in the city, these Oliver Goldsmith shades will brighten up your lunch break walks in the park.

Moscot »Yuke l«

Moscot banks on timeless classics with these subtle, yet powerful frames in elegant tortoise.

SELECTION

des Liu Jo »L J 614SR«

When the days get warm enough to debut those new high heels, these Liu Jo frames will help make a stunning appearance.

ic ! be r lin »J ulin a«

We can’t see a lack of creativity when we evaluate the ic! berlin collection. No model is like the next.

Ta r i a n » Opera«

Visionary design from designer Jérémy Tarian in an elegant, timeless tortoise version.

c o l l e c t i o n s H OOT

FACE à FACE by mar ie bärsch

20 years after its foundation, Face à Face surprises us again and again with bright, modern, graphic and colorful frames.

Like in the collections before, the new 2015 frames are a form of expression, not just a commodity. The modern style that Face à Face stands for is inspired by different design movements – from Bauhaus to Memphis.

The bold and sophisticated lines are supported by a unique use of color – and in this case by the stunning atmosphere at the auto graveyeard close to Capetown where we shot the new 2015 sunglasses collection.

photo a ss is t ant alex wätzel s t ylin g susi bauer h a ir & m ake -up lars rüffer t a t gloss ar tistmanagement work i n g w i t h l’oréal, lancôme, ysl & armani h a ir & m ake -up a ss is t ant fr anzisk a sonnabend mo d els jessica lee & bianca brombin a t ice models cape town p os t p ro duc t ion dgtl-craft

COLLECTION S H OOT

»Acqua 2«

» O n d e s 2«

c o l l e c t i o n s H OOT

»Po p py 1« »Fa m e s 1«

»B aila 1«

COLLECTION S H OOT

»Po m m e 2«

c o l l e c t i o n s H OOT

»Pu n k h e r 4 « » I d o ls 2«

»D o l ce 1«

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tr avaganCe by pascal albandopoulos

st yling valĂŠrie uckermann hair & make up maria tavridou models kristina nikolic, helena klose

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essentials

PICNIC photos manuel mit telpunk t

Are you the fashion-savvy cosmopolitan type with a penchant for blogging about style on your lunch break? A quiet creative mastermind hidden under a hoodie?

Or an avant-garde hipster privy to the latest budding trend? No matter who you are – EYEWEAR has you covered with our current selection of stylish accessories and matching fragrances for spring and summer.

esr s eunb tr i a kls

Spring time is for the romantics. The dreamers looking to lose themselves in the moment. The believers with an undying faith in finding the one true love. And of course it’s time for the finer things in life, some of which we have compiled here – just for you. Get ready to fall in love.

wal le t le vis, sun g l a ss e s ray-ban »4211«, gl a ss e s whiteout & glare »7066 shibuya«, w a t ch komono, p a r f u m andrea maack »silk«, s un cre am doc tor babor »derma cellular«, c re am selexir skincare »peace balm«, e y e sh a dow tromborg

essentials

su n g l a ss e s ic! berlin »köpenick«, p or t a ble s p e a ke r philips, ke yloop wnzl, w a t ch nixon, p a r f u m agonist »solaris«, shor t s adidas originals

ESSE N T I ALS

Lean back, put your feet up, and enjoy the silence – while it lasts.

Because once you’ve discovered our hot accessories selection for the upcoming summer season, you’re most likely up and running to the next store or mall.

wal le t nixon, sun g l a ss e s lune t tes kollek tion »gr and tour«, he a dphone s marshall ma jor ii, p ar f u m roads »neon«, p or t a ble s p e a ke r skullcandy

ESSE N T I ALS

su n g l a ss e s andy wolf »might«, ca p vans, p a r f u m six scents »trompe l´oeil«, w a l le t le vis, w a t ch komono, g l a ss e s moscot »avram«, s hor t s bolt

newcomer

introducing photos raphael schmitz

Meet the t r ending young ey ew ear l abels

A c e & T at e Whoever said you can’t combine design, quality, and fair price points in the eyewear business?

Dutch label A ce & T ate is on a mission to cover all these angles. Their goal: Wearers should be able to switch out their glasses as effortlessly as their daily outfits. The majority of their frames are crafted from robust cellulose acetate – thus the name A ce & T ate .

As a special extra, the brand offers customers a »Virtual Try-on« via the Internet, complemented by a »Home Try-on« of four pairs received in the mail.

» M ont y I n dian Summer drop I « »M ur ray « »K at Spaceaddit y drop I«

newcomer

K OMONO K omono is an upcoming small label from Belgium that definitely deserves to be mentioned as an upcoming brand. From watches with classic-looking faces all the way to cool sunglasses, Komono has a way of nailing the »retro-futuristic« aesthetic.

The current Spring/Summer 2015 collection pays homage to iconic Southern California architect John Lautner. As an avid apprentice to Frank Lloyd Wright, Lautner’s work strived for a balance between clear, straight structural lines and the organic shapes of nature.

Much like K omono , the resulting style is effortlessly stylish and organic.

» Lul u « »The B ennet « »The R iviera«

newcomer

R . T . CO Looking for a streetwear classic with proven street cred? Look no further than trending urban label R.T.C o , founded by former s kateboarder Tobias Bergmann with that extra street edge. Since 2006, all frames are being manufactured in Italy, crafted from block acetate and equipped with C arl Z eiss lenses.

The frames dazzle with incredible light weight, thanks to the high cotton content in the acetate mixture. If you’re searching for a rugged blend of quality, functionality and urban cool, R.T.C o has you covered.

» Iora« »Loon « »Ter n «

Style: (L) V792 (R) V787

Ziggy & Stephen Marley: Austin, TX P h o t o g r a p h e d b y D a n n y C l i n c h , 2 015

EYEWEAR REMDOTTICA

+44 (0)1159 677912

s erlue bc rt i ko n

all red photo R aphael Schmitz

The color red gets our heart pumping and imagination flowing. Red lips are made for kissing, the red carpet is for striking a pose, and red roses say, »I love you«. With that said, what are red glasses meant for? Getting a lot of love, that’s what!

Metropolit an »R e d« I’m seeing red! Bu

t no need to panic: People wearing co tend to have a mor lor ful eyewear e healthy, enthus ia stic outlook on life.

Pa pe r s t y l e »P o m .11« Comfortable, light

weight, and sturd

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ellinger says,

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ys.

SPECIAL

SPACE AGE photo r aphael schmitz

OAK LEY X Metal Collec t ion In the year 2050, mankind is fighting for survival in a war against an alien species.

The future of planet earth and the entire human race is at stake. An international strike force equipped with full-body mech suits, wrap-around helmets and futuristic sunglasses is tasked with infiltrating the alien command center, and blowing the entire lot out of existence. In this sci-fi scenario, the new Oakley X Metal collection would actually be the perfect choice of eyewear.

As the counterpart to the »Madman«, the Badman is a bit more down-toearth with its rectangular lenses, but still packing the same technology.

During the design process for these latest iterations of the X Metal legacy, Oakley’s designers relied on 3Dprinted models, which were meticulously tinkered with until they were ready for die-casting. A beautiful run, limited to 1,000 pieces, so get them before the aliens arrive.

The innovative California brand’s new »Madman« model with its rounded shape and keyhole bridge is ready for space action, crafted from lightweight die-cast aluminum. Both lenses are cut from the same sheet, thereby perfectly aligning their polarization axis. Select models feature Prizm lenses, while the bridge is made from O Matter, combined with patented 3-point-fit for that perfect hold – while shooting alien intruders – by only making contact with the wearer’s head in three places.

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DARE TO BE DIFFERENT unique frame made 100% of paper

WE STAND FOR • Cool design • Handcraft from South Tyrol • Sustainability • Renewable Resources • Highest Quality Moreover

www.paper-style.it

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love me photo R aphael Schmitz

Barton Per r eir a

Chr ist ian ROTH

This could be the beginning of a wonderful friendship. The love affair between legendary eyewear label B arton P er rei ra

and seasoned designer Christian Roth is now official.

It’s about time! After all, the two have known and appreciated each other for more than 30 years. Setting things off, the new rimless B arton P errei ra frames with the pretty golden top bar continue where Roth’s 1980s »Optical Affairs Series A« initially got the ball rolling. The resulting frames are retro and futuristic all at the same time, and ever so stylish. No doubt about it: This capsule collection is our choice for Collab of the Issue.

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by Sacha Tassilo Höchst ett er

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R o b e r t La R o c h e »B l ew i t«

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R I D G E WAY I N S I E N N A

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v i n ta g e i n t e r v i e w

LEE YULE int e r vie w alexander dosiehn photos stefan dongus

A London Story of Br idges & Brows

I t ’s a ll a bout be ing a go o d n eigh b o r in Lo n d o n’s t re n d i n g – bu t f r i e n d l y – Sh o re d i tc h n e i g h bo r h o o d.

V I N TA G E I N T E R V I E W

Lee Yule has been working in the eyewear business for decades, including stints as a UK distributor for brands such as Police and Persol over 20 years ago. Nevertheless, Yule remains relatively unknown in the industry. But mentioning his name to collectors of vintage eyewear is a different story entirely. In that world, Lee Yule is an internationally known tastemaker, and we made his acquaintance in this capacity over three years ago and kept in touch ever since. In February, we had a chance to visit the soft spoken Londoner with a cosmopolitan background in his own shop in London’s trending Shoreditch neighborhood.

For this issue’s Vintage Interview, the proprietor of Bridges and Brows reveals the philosophy behind his collection while bringing out his Top 10 possessions for our photo shoot.

Lee, please introduce yourself and tell us

see how designs had changed over the years,

what you do and why you do it.

how manufacturing processes changed and

My name is Lee Yule, I am the store owner of

how that reflected in the designs. I started

B r i dge s & B rows at 63 Redchurch Street in

collecting some of these vintage frames and

London, and a vintage eyewear collector.

eventually it turned into the business I have

We met for the first time during Silmo trade-

today.

show three years ago, where you appeared

Being a vintage collector myself, I know how

with a long beard and asymmetrical Cazal

a passion can develop into a business. How

shades. Now you look way more »reputa-

would you describe the synergies between

ble«. What is your background, and how did

being a vintage frame enthusiast on one

you develop your business up until today?

hand, and running a real business to feed

I was introduced to the world of eyewear

the family on the other?

through my father, who worked at Pola-

I guess it is different for everyone, but for me

roid for many years. I started a distribution

I think that it’s difficult to have a business

business in the UK in the early 90s, working

model that depends on selling something

with many brands including P olice , F endi ,

that is not being manufactured anymore.

P er sol , M osch i no and V i vi enne W e s t -

And therefore we mix the vintage aspect

wood .

with contemporary independent brands

During this time, my appreciation

and understanding of the industry grew and

from around the world. Of course beautiful

I found myself becoming more and more in-

frames are being made today as well as in the

terested in the history and design of frames

past.

from the past. It was fascinating for me to

V I N TA G E I N T E R V I E W

1.C a z a l » 63 4 « Definitely one of my all-time favorite brands and an obvious one to list. But I love their huge variety of frames. As with many other collectors, it is the original 6 Series that are the frames to look for. I personally love a lot of the 7 Series, too. I have quite a few OG Cazals, many of them are very close to my heart.

In terms of models, I guess I would have to choose the small size »642/97« as my favorite.

It is a heavy frame! Also my crystal »634«.

2 . M o s c h in o b y P er s o l » M p 5 0 6 « I think this collaboration was perfect. The quirkiness of Moschino was explored perfectly in the range created

by Persol. I have just managed to find myself a »Mp506«, the frame with the comb temples!

3 . D i o r M o n s ie u r » 2 3 3 2 « Although there are many beautiful Diors for ladies, as a man I’m going to choose the »Monsieur« collection. There really are loads of great frames for men, some I wish I had never sold and kept for myself! I’m going to recommend the »2332« model, a simple matt gold aviator with an unusually angled double bridge.

V intage interview

4 . C arrera » 5 1 5 2 4 1 « Sadly today, the Carrera range has been re-launched and the quality is not very good. For me, the Carrera of old stands for quality and innovative design. Along with their own range they also produced the Porsche, Boeing, Boss and Sunjet ranges. I’m going to choose one of the boss frames that have been popular in the shop, the »5152 41« is a beautiful blonde tort combination frame.

5 . Si l h o u ette - F u t u ra » 5 7 1 « I have to list the Futura range as it is one that I have been collecting for a while although they are very rare and anyone will be very lucky to find one. I think I read somewhere that only 200 of each were made, but that may be eyewear folklore … The range is all about big, bold colors, so ‘70s! Now over 50 years old! My favorite is the »571« in purple with the green dot.

V I N TA GREU B I NRTI KE R V I E W

Lee Yule AGE: 44 Born in: London Familiy: Partner Kate and 2 children Romilly and Louis Passion beyond Eyewear: Family, Dancing and Acid House.

Personal Quote: Here and Now. Ph o to s h o t th re e ye a r s a g o. Le e l i k e s to k eep up wi th th e ti me s. H i s g l a s s e s, not so muc h.

Please tell us about your shop in London and

The frame that turned me onto vintage

why you chose Shoreditch as your location.

frames was the »Boeing 5701«. When I dis-

My aim was to create a relaxed space with a

covered this frame, it was so different from

unique selection of frames, somewhere you

other regular aviators that were around at the

never know what you will find. A treasure

time. The large lenses, exaggerated dimen-

chest of eyewear wonders! We are always

sions, the details with the limited edition

looking to buy stock and have deliveries ev-

cards and the attention to detail in manufac-

ery week, always something new, rare or un-

turing; for instance the hinges mechanism

discovered. We provide honest and helpful

where they bend outwards. They were just

advice, never selling anything unless it’s just

pieces of art, in contrast to how all the big

right. For me, it’s no good wanting to wear a

brands at the time were making frames to

frame because someone else has been wear-

appeal to the average man, to fit the most

ing it. It’s more about a personalized choice

people and so on. Just designs based on

depending on what will fit your face, hence

selling the most frames possible. This still

the name B r i dge s & B rows . Shoreditch is

continues today, although I do see some

perfect for us, there is a great mix of people

interesting designs from the big fashion

that appreciate what we do and maybe it

houses these days. But most of it comes from

would not work anywhere else.

copying vintage frames or smaller indepen-

What drove you into vintage? What makes vintage glasses and sunglasses so fascinating to you?

dent designers.

V I N TA G E I N T E R V I E W

We know each other from several Facebook groups with a vintage glasses theme. What do you think about the vintage community – if there is such a thing? Or are we all lone fighters?

The Internet is making the world smaller, which for me is a great thing. It means that people can connect in a way that would have been impossible in the past, the vintage community has grown out of this new ability to communicate and to share their passion and knowledge. Are we lone fighters? Maybe to some degree, not everyone has the desire to search for that elusive colorway of a frame made over 50 years ago.

Please give us your thoughts about the different (social) media that allow vintage fans from all over the world to connect, share, trade and sell. Is there an ideal scenario?

In the past, I think it was big business that had the power in the market, to be able to advertise in magazines and then have the network of distribution to get their brands onto the high street. This has changed now with social media. Now an individual can reach thousands of potential customers by posting a single image on Facebook, Twitter or Instagram. This can only be a good thing. There is no ideal scenario, things will continuously develop and change.

The hard part is to stay on top of it all. One really interesting platform is frametraders.net with a focus on vintage eyewear, where everybody can list their treasures free of charge, no matter if they are retailers or private collectors.

Thank you for the interview, Lee.

V I N TA G E I N T E R V I E W

6 . C a s an o va » C 0 2 « Must be one of the most adventurous designers in vintage eyewear. Not really the most wearable designs, but amazing objects. One pair I have in my collection is the C02 – a must for any evil scientists wanting to take over “ze world”!

7 . G ianfranc o F erre » 2 7 2 « I love this range, a lot of the styling is classic, others are more adventurous. I love the earliest frames in bold chunky acetate with thick gold temples, but I’m going to choose the »272« frame with its perfect circle lens with unique ball hinges.

vintage interview

8 . J ean P a u l G a u l tier » 5 6 - 0 0 2 1 « Again a range that pushed the boundaries with attention to detail and design. The look is very 90s, quite industrial. There are lots of great simple round shapes and some extravagant unique designs.

I’m going to suggest one that is not so well known, but I love the Dragon Temples. The »56-0021« is my choice!

9 . C h ri s tian Lacr o i x » 7 3 3 5 « The attention to detail is stunning in some of these designs.

These frames always have that extra something, one of my favorites is the »7335«. I love the detailing on the nose pads.

1 0 . B o eing » 5 7 0 3 « I mentioned this range when talking about Carrera but it deserves its own recommendation. There are, I think, eleven different models and for me nine of those are special. The manufacturing quality is very high, and frames come in two sizes for those with a larger heads. If I was to choose one, it would be the »5703« one-piece mask!

FRAMETRADERS.NET Marketplace for Vintage Eyewear Collectors

Buy and Sell your vintage glasses for free »Ple ase help to build this unique platform and keep it free of fake and crap glasses«

S upp or t ed b y E YE W E A R Ma ga zi ne

t h e rea s o n w h y

wild

80’s

By Marc Gysin m a ke - up & s t yl i n g julia grunz mo d el tina a t fotogen.ch re touch lena grishkova conce pt & t e x t nathanaël wenger ca mp a i g n diebrillenmesse.de

The Wild Eighties served as the inspiration for a campaign photo shoot advertising the brand-new eyewear tradeshow, Die Brillenmesse, which will premiere in C o b l en s »V i g n e t te «

Cologne on April 25–26, 2015. The 1980s were a carefree period, a time when strong colors dominated the fashion scene: neon, white, and also pink were the colors of the day. It was a highly musical time, with disco reigning supreme, and stone-washed jeans and mesh shirts among the hottest dance floor trends.

S ony headphones were the hallmark of mobile personal audio entertainment, and the Walkman cassette player debuted in crazy colors.

The world of 1980s eyewear was equally bright and colorful. Cari Zalloni aka C az al rocked the world with asymmetrical frames, while Alain Mikli brought colorful acetate frames to market, and P or sche pioneered innovation with interchangeable lenses.

Gradient or reflective lens coatings – technological progress suddenly made everything possible. For our photo shoot, we chose Degradée lenses for a special, colorful touch in five different color gradients: pink, yellow, orange, green, and blue. All colors were chosen from up to 20-yearold patterns and meticulously colored by hand. See for

C o b l en s »L a n d e k l a p p e «

yourself: Eyewear in the 1980s – super bright, and super sexy!

t h e rea s o n w h y

Ill.i

C o b l en s

»WA0 01V«

»H ote l gu t s ch e in«

Orgreen

Orgreen

»Ste ll a Po l ar is«

»T il da« 159

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NICE NICE Me , myse lf and I a ka Christian M etzl er C h a n e l »520 2« » T his i m a ge w a s a b y -p ro duc t of t h e s ho ot for Tr v e Hill . Ex p e r i m e nt in g wit h an alt e r n a t i v e k in d of l i g hti n g , w e e n d ed up wit h a co ol im a ge for our sm a ll l a b el N i c e N i c e . «

Christian Metzler int e r vie w alexander dosiehn

F rom t he life of a v intage photographer Christian Metzler is an internationally known collector of vintage eyewear and highly talented photographer – all wrapped into one person.

To no surprise, Christian likes to aim his lens at interesting characters wearing just as interesting pieces of eyewear. For this issue’s Portfolio segment, EYEWEAR’s Vintage Editor, Alexander Dosiehn, had a chance to rummage through Christian’s archives and talk about his creative process.

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P o rtf o l i o

Hello Christian, it’s always a pleasure to talk shop with a fellow collector about our mutual passion. Today we’re looking at your work as a photographer. Do you see it as a job or a higher calling?

Thanks a lot for being interested not only in my passion for eyewear, but also the fruits of my day job (laughs). Working as a photographer is a dream come true for me. There’s never been a day, ever since my days as an apprentice, when I regretted taking that leap of faith. Every day I’m looking forward to getting out of bed and pursuing my »job«.

So I’m really living my dream and making a living off my passion. And that could be considered a »higher calling«, I guess.

People can feel it when they look at your photographs. The photos we’re showing in this segment predominantly feature characters wearing rare vintage eyewear. Do you supply the glasses for the shoots, or do your models bring their own?

That really depends. A lot of the people shown here didn’t need me to supply them with glasses, since they happen to be passionate eyewear collectors of their own, most of them photographed during eyewear meet-ups. But I can definitely say about one certain shot, that I gave the young man the inspiration to start collecting eyewear. So you could say I hooked him up.

On some of my commissioned jobs, I provide glasses to the models or musicians. I like to bring a good selection of frames to every shoot, just in case. And when I’m shooting a rapper, the line-up I bring is different than shooting a fashion story. Most of the time, we’ll go through my frames

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P o rtf o l i o

together and pick the right glasses. They’ll say stuff like, »I want a photo with the Notorious BIG glasses!« Or, »Are you bringing a couple of C az al s?« But I surely hope that my glasses aren’t the only reason clients will choose me, and my photography also plays a part. But hey, having an extensive eyewear collection has surely proven a bonus.

How about your day-to-day work? What are your jobs outside the eyewear universe?

What type of photographer are you?

I consider myself as a people photographer, meaning that my photographic work always revolves around human beings. My clients include advertising agencies, musicians, music labels, companies, jewelry manufacturers, but also private customers. I offer advertising photography, CD artwork and also take photos at weddings. I love working with people, directing a shoot, setting the lighting, and then sitting at my computer in the studio and fine-tuning my work. To me as a photographer it’s always important that my subject feels comfortable. I would describe myself as a kind-natured photographer tuned into the current zeitgeist with an elevated taste.

You not only exhibit distinct taste in your eyewear choices. Your entire style, including tattoos, outfits, jewelry, and your car all contribute to making you an overall »vintage body of work«. How would you describe your personal style and how did it evolve?

Wow thanks for the compliment. I like »vintage body of work« a lot! The starting point was definitely vintage eyewear. And at some point I noticed that the same manufacturers from those times had also made other nice products that I liked. That’s when bags,

P o rtf o l i o

jewelry, watches and clothing came into the mix. I like the luxury of days gone by. It’s affordable, stylish, and offers enduring value. The B enz I’m currently driving, a »300CE 24V« from 1992, was my girlfriend’s suggestion. She was up in arms against getting a F iat »Multipla«.

And she was right – of course! From time to time, I like bringing some of these items to my assignments, for instance a silk shirt by V er sace , some C hanel jewelry or an M cm suitcase. And if it’s a good fit, they become part of the scene. But that tends to be the exception to the rule.

Both of us are great fans of the Cazal brand. And we have a mutual friend who is shooting the photos for the current Cazal campaign. Wouldn’t that kind of gig be a dream job for you – even for some other brands?

Well, of course! I would love it – and not just for C az al . I love the entire world of eyewear and there are so many large and small manufacturers that I would be happy to work for.

What our friend Armen is doing for C az al is so incredible, such great work. And I have to admit I’m a little jealous. But at least, Armen getting the job means they have a photographer who’s great at what he’s doing, has good ideas and taste, and a good heart on top of that. I met him last year in NYC and he’s also pictured in this portfolio. Just a great dude!

p o rtf o l i o

C a z a l P h anatic I I A rmen Dj erra h ian and Dameion W i ll iams C a z a l »6 1 6 C ol 1 3 1 « » I t ’s n e v e r e a s y to t a ke pic t u re s wh e n t h e su bje c t h a pp e n s to be a g re a t photog ra ph e r. B ut wh e n i t ’s com b i n e d w it h a p a ss ion for e y e w e a r a n d t h e shoot i s s e t i n B rook ly n , i t ’s a re al ble ss in g.

I f e el honore d for ge t t i n g t h e ch a nce to t ake t his photo.«

G o d l o ve s t h o s e w h o are patient Jays u s G i a n n i V e r s a c e »42 4 « »T h i s photo i s f rom a co v e r shoot for t h e l a t e s t Ja ysu s a l bu m , t h e t it le of which t ran s l a t e s i nto E n g l i sh a s , › G o d lo v e s t hos e who a re p a t ie nt . ‹ Na t u ra lly , I s u g ge s t ed w e ar in g s u n g l a ss e s for t h e sho ot . A n d I k n e w t h a t b e ca u s e of t h e con n e c t ion be t w ee n t he V e r s a c e » 4 2 4 « mo d el a n d ra pp e r Notor iou s B I G , i t w a s t h e p e r f e c t fit for Ja ys u s .«

164

P O R T F OL I O

C a z a l P h anatic I Dameion » Rh yt h mch i ld« W i lliams St a r t i n g w i t h a C a z a l » 9 0 6 « , Da m e ion u s e d t h e t e mple s of a »6 2 7 « toge t he r w i t h h a n d - c ra f t e d i n n e r r i n g s to c re a t e h i s ow n 6 4 2 /3 mo d el , all m a d e f rom or i g i n a l vi nt a ge C a z a l s p a re p a r t s a n d h i s ow n , r ich im a gin a t ion . » T h i s photo h a pp e n e d a t a t i m e wh e n I fle w to N e w York for s ho ot in g a C a z a l lo ok book . Da m e ion w a s on e of t h e mod el s for t h e lo ok b ook a n d a s e a son ed colle c tor of C a z a l e y e w e a r. A n d h e ’s a l so a n i n v e ntor of som e g re a t f ra m e s on top of t h a t , som e of wh ich e v e n e n d e d up b e com i n g offic i a l C a z a l pie ce s . I t w a s a gre a t opp or t u n i t y to sho ot t h e s e g u ys on t h e s t re e t s of B ro ok ly n w i t h t he ir colle c t ion .« 165

P O R T F OL I O

C a z a l Br o s I I I A rmen Dj erra h ian and Dameion W i l liams Caz al »6 42« »W h e n I m e t up w i t h A r m e n a n d Da m e ion i n B rook ly n to shoot som e pie ce s f rom t h e i r C a z a l col le c t ion s , t h i s C a d il l a c h a pp e n e d to d r i v e b y .

Ar m e n s imply w a v e d dow n t h e d r i v e r a n d h i ja c ke d t h e r i d e . A f t e r w e h a d blo c ke d t wo e nt i re l a n e s for t e n m i nut e s , t h e p ol ice ca su a l ly a ske d u s to cle a r t h e roa d . T h i s k i n d of t h i n g on ly h a pp e n s i n N Y C . «

T rve Hi l l T r v e Hi l l ak a DJ T ow B V i nt a ge M a r c o l i n mit Clip O n » Tr v e Hil l a ske d m e to t a ke som e n e w p re ss photos a n d w e e n d e d up cl i m b i n g on a ro of top in St ut t ga r t . I l i ke t h e b roo d in g a t mos phe re a n d t h e a r ch i t e c t u re i n t h e back grou n d .« 166

P O R T F OL I O

Ber l in Leave s Dav y Jones J e a n P a u l G a u l t i e r »56-8 1 7 1« » Da v y s t a r t e d out a s m y I n s t a g ra m f r ie n d , t h e n w e also be cam e f r ie n d s i n re a l l if e . R e ce nt ly w e m e t up s p ont an eou s ly in B e rl i n . Da v y work s a s a mo d el so I t hou g h t t h a t an imp rompt u photo shoot wou l d b e a g re a t i d e a , si nce h e a l re a d y h a pp e n ed to b e i n tow n . For t u n a t ely , I h a d a f e w g l a ss e s in my t r u n k a n d t h e » 56 - 8 1 7 1 « w a s a n a t u ra l fi t . T h a t ’s how t his ra t he r d ark p or t ra i t h a pp e n e d . Q u ic k on e , but cam e out n ice .«

S u pri s e in N Y C S wagg Man E mm a n u e l l e K h a n h »E K 1 200« »Swa g gMan is a ra pp e r f rom Pa r i s a n d a n I n s t a g ra m f r ie n d of m i n e . We h a v e bee n follow in g e ach ot h e r ’ s ac cou nt s for a wh ile now, a l l b a s e d on ou r sh a re d i nt e re s t i n vi nt a ge e y e w e ar. I n 201 3 , w e e n d e d up b ot h b e i n g i n N e w York a t t h e sa m e t i m e a n d m a d e pl a n s to m ee t up, which f ell t h rou gh for s ch e du lin g re a son s . B ut wh e n I w a s c r u i si n g dow n 5t h A v e nu e on m y l a s t n i ght in NY C , I h a pp e n e d to s p ot som e b o d y w e a r i n g su n g l a ss e s . A n d t a k i n g a clos e r lo ok , w e in s t ant ly re cogn i z e d e ach ot h e r. Sw a g g Ma n – fa t e b rou g h t u s toge t h e r on t h e c i t y s t re e ts . S ince t he n w e h a v e be e n t a l k i n g on t h e phon e re g u l a rly a b out e y e w e a r a n d vi nt a ge colle c tor ’ s it e ms .« 167

P O R T F OL I O

D art h G A G A Dart h G AG A G i a n n i V e r s a c e » Up d a t e 67 6 « » T h i s i s a f re e s t yle pie ce , a n d som e wh a t a joke . I h a d t h e Da r t h Va d e r m a s k a t hom e a n d got t h e i d e a t h a t t h e UPDA T E f ram e wou l d b e e x a c t ly wh a t Da r t h Va d e r wou l d w e a r ch il l i n g a t hom e . A n d t he f ram e also h a pp e n e d to b e a con s t a nt comp an ion of L a d y G a ga ’s , wor n f re q u e nt ly a t t he s t ar t of h e r ca re e r. So I put t h e m all toge t he r, a n d t h a t ’s how t h i s photo h a pp e n ed .«

M iami V ice G iancarl o Marterl R o d e n s t o ck » Sup e rS on ic 1 7 55« » G i a nca rlo i s a je w el r y d e si g n e r l i vi n g i n Mi a m i , who o v e r t he y e a r s b e ca m e a n a vi d col le c tor of vi nt a ge e y e w e a r. F u n ny e nou gh , m a k i n g m y a c q u a i nt a nce on I n s t a g ra m i s wh a t i n it ially s t ar t ed h i s fa sc i n a t ion w i t h vi nt a ge e y e w e a r. W h e n w e m e t in Miami , t h e re w a s no q u e s t ion t h a t w e h a d to sho ot him w it h t he s e g l a ss e s i n h i s M e r c e d e s B e n z » 56 0 S L«. S hot a t n i ght out on t h e s t re e t s of C o conut G rov e w i t h a vail a ble li ght .«

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GRADUATE by chr ist ian st einhausen

s t yl i n g lin adler h air & m ake - up alicja lisiak a t the taste agency mod el aaron, luk as, johanna a t vivamodels/berlin & john schwenzer a t spin model management

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Coblens »30 0 6 4 «

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su i t & b ow t ie Tiger of Sweden, sh i r t Porsche Design, s ho e s Santoni

Coblens »30 0 67«

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ja c ke t Tiger of Sweden, p olosh i r t Lyle & Scott, p a nt s Karl Lagerfeld, s ho e s Lagerfeld 167

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Ha m b urg E y e w ear ÂťPau liÂŤ

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jacke t & p a nts Ami Alexandre Mattiussi, s h ir t Orlebar Brown 168

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i -s pa x »R ain e r«

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b ow t ie & sh i r t Tiger of Sweden, jacke t Lyle&Scott 169

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Metr o p o l i ta n » 8223«

sh i r t Tiger of Sweden, ja c ke t Lyle & Scott, he a d phon e s Urbanears 171

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d re ss Fred Perry, t ie Tiger of Sweden, jac ke t Filippa K

Pa p er s t y l e » Cir.1«

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su i t Porsche Design, t ie Tiger of Sweden, s hir t Lagerfeld 173

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Sa l t »B rowe r«

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jacke t Cos, He m d Fred Perry, p ant s Karl Lagerfeld, t ie Tiger of Sweden 174

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Sa l t »A r n e «

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ja c ke t Filippa K , p a nt s Cos, sh i r t Fred Perry, flow e r Tiger of Sweden 175

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R o b ert La R o c h e » C ash«

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s uit Lagerfeld, b ow tie St ylist ’s own, s h ir t & belt Tiger of Sweden

R o b ert La R o c h e » C ar b oy«

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s kir t Tiger of Sweden, top Barbour, jac ke t Fred Perry 176

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ALL YOU

NEED BY f lor ian gr ill

photo a ssi s t a nt lars jockumsen d i g i t a l a ssi s t a nt mana komiyama s t yl i n g sĂŠraphine de lima a t bigoudi s t yl i n g a ssi s t a nt ksenia friesen h air & m ake -up marco hĂźlsebus a t stiegemeyer u si n g chanel & ke vin murphy mo d els yana a t core management, marcel a t seeds management

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Mu n i c Ey e W e a r »M o d . 6 «

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d r e s s Jovo n na Lo n d o n

Mu n i c Ey e W e a r »M o d . 5«

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s h i r t t ed bak er , p a n t s ysl v i n tag e 179

Götti »To n k y«

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d r e s s Su per t r a sh

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Götti »Po l o «

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j a c k e t & s h i r t v i n tag e, p a n t s le v i ’s, s h o e s b oss 181

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Jo h n Va r v a t o s ÂťV 363ÂŤ

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Jo h n Va r v a t o s »V 205«

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h a t d k n y, p a n t s c alv i n k l ei n j e a n s, j a c k e t m ei n d l 183

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Reiz »Elb e «

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b l o u s e su per t r a sh , p a n t s m oto j e an s w e ar 184

Reiz ÂťH ir s chÂŤ

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d r e s s fa i t h co n n e xi o n , n e c k l a c e v i n tag e, b o o t s val en t i n o v i n tag e

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Ha m b u r g Ey e w e a r »K nu t«

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Ha m b u r g Ey e w e a r »Lot s e «

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p a n t s closed, s h i r t a m er i c an appar el , j a c k e t b e ed g y 186

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www.brandoeyewear.com

sales@brandoeyewear.com

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m at e r i a l w o r l d s

mix it! p h o t o s r a pha el s ch m i t z

hof f mann nat ur al ey ew ear

»I am what I’m wearing«, is designer Wolfgang Thelen’s self-proclaimed motto. His Hoffmann Natural Eyewear manufacturing outfit has built a reputation for frames with elegant, elaborate material combinations that help wearers express their personality.

»V7 7 3 5 «

»V7751« »V7448«

m at e r i a l w o r l d s

What are the special features of the »Horn & Wood Delight« collection?

The frames represent a combination of two materials with which we have been working since 1978. We are well familiar with the characteristics and advantages of both materials. Natural horn is a material we love to process into eyewear. Next to its advantageous visual properties because of buffalo horn’s natural grain, it’s also comfortable and warm to wear, all the while allergy-friendly.

We started creating eyewear from wood many years ago and have also developed a strong personal connection to this natural material. Our wooden frames were already in demand before the big »wood hype« hit our industry on the current scale. Creating an eyewear frame from wood ultimately connects a person to nature, just as much as wearing such a frame.

What are some of the technical challenges during development?

The many moods of nature are what lends these types of wood their beautiful structure – and we are free to work with and interpret them. Being able to work with something so perfect is a privilege – and only with this understanding in mind, real craftsmanship is possible.

One big challenge consisted of approaching the opportunities for combining the two materials. But ultimately, I think we have managed to create something that’s unique in the eyewear segment: We »married« horn and wood in one and the same frame. Anyone holding these frames in their hands with all their light weight and expressiveness will understand and appreciate this unique liaison.

How are you different from other eyewear manufacturers?

We have always continued evolving. We have managed to manufacture the thinnest and lightest frames from horn and wood available on the market. At the same time, the stability of the material and level of design are meeting the highest standards of quality.

Would you like to reveal a little bit about the manufacturing process?

Just exactly how we achieve the blend between these two materials … Let’s say we don’t want to reveal that

»V7448« »V7735«

m at e r i a l w o r l d s

for competitive reasons.

But one thing is for sure: It’s a natural process. And carried out by experienced hands.

How long does it take to go from initial design to finished product?

That’s a tough question to answer directly in one sentence. Some frames can take years in the making. And sometimes we are baffled by how we implemented an entire concept – from initial idea to launch – within a mere eight weeks.

Let’s do some trend scouting. Which materials and styles will be en vogue this year?

Colors will continue to be a major theme this year. And there are constantly new and changing materials and possibilities. Diversity in terms of colors is a continuous theme of the past few years. For us it’s a great opportunity to supplement the natural grain patterns of our horn and wood surfaces with additional colorful accents. And you have to be able to add special features to your products. For instance, we like working with stone and slate integrated in our glasses. Right now, our frames with a combination of wood and slate are the best sellers in the H offmann collection.

How has the job profile of the eyewear designer evolved?

For Jutta and myself, glasses are always a part of someone’s personality, and the design should cover every detail. This is why we put a lot of thought into our designs and thoroughly test shapes and materials while keeping a close ear to the market. One of the current trends we are definitely catering to is the additional lifestyle element that’s in demand in our industry.

A pair of glasses should be a window into someone’s character. People should be able to identify with their eyewear. This brings a great amount of opportunities, but also challenges and difficulties. There’s a demand for greater diversity within a trend. So we as designers have to be more diverse, but we also get greater opportunities for exploring different directions in our designs. Some of the major benefits of our company are our large amount »V7 7 5 1 « »V7 4 3 7 «

of hands-on experiences together with our expansive testing equipment. This allows us to realize new ideas much quicker than a few years ago.

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RELEASE YOUR

GREATNESS. B E R L IN V IS IO N S IN C E 2006

MagnusstraĂ&#x;e 11, 12489 Berlin, Germany www.whiteout-glare.com - info@whiteout-glare.com

197

insight

petite belle photos r aphael schmitz

animal collec t ion

In terms of inspiration, Colibris is taking a page out of The Jungle Book for their new collection – with animal prints. But only for petite faces!

The hummingbird is not only holding world records

conventional eyewear frames are far too bold for wearers

for smallest bird and fastest wing beat in the animal

with petite faces. Therefore, C oli br is frames are always

kingdom, but also serves as the namesake for German

aiming to accentuate delicate facial features with just the

eyewear brand C oli br is (the word is German for »hum-

right dose of design features.

mingbird«). Since the year 2000, C oli br is has been serv-

True to the company’s name, inspiration for the latest

ing up a broad selection of eyewear specifically designed

collection also came from the animal kingdom. This time

to fit small faces.

around, the fur pattern of the leopard serves as the back-

All models are handcrafted in Germany from high-grade

drop for beautifully patterned frame designs. It’s a deli-

materials such as acetate and titanium. With an eye for

cate balance, since we all know how easily leopard styles

craftsmanship and quality, all models release in small

can become overbearing. But by limiting the pattern to

batches and comparatively limited editions. Over the

certain parts of the frames such as the front section while

years, the family business has won customers across

blending in classic details, the overall look remains in

Europe and overseas with its uncompromising quality

true C oli br is style. Here’s your chance to take a walk on

focus.

the wild side!

According to company founder Wolfgang Reckzeh, most

INSIGHT

Modell »Ida«

INSIGHT

M o d e l l »j o s y«

C H A R M A N T G M B H E U R O P E / W W W. C H A R M A N T. D E | E T 1 7 8 4 5 - 5 4 3

EYEWEAR SPRING/SUMMER 2015

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Entourage of 7 ÂťH untin g to nÂŤ

o u t f i t Cl ai r e C a r r u t her s 196

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DUST

By Samuli K ar al a

s t yl i n g claire carruthers h a i r & m a ke - up hedi k almar mo d els magdalena fiolk a a t mmg uae, emilia jar vela a t wilhelmina

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F a ce à F a ce »B o cc a Lov a 2«

F a ce à F a ce »Po p py1«

Liu Jo »LJ 616S «

Chloé » CE675S «

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S t r a d a de l S o l e Âť098ÂŤ

s h o r t s pau l & j o e, j a c k e t h& m s t u d i o, s c a r f a l e x a n der m cq u een, c h o k e r bal en ciag a

Cazal »M o d . 163/ 3«

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Cazal »M o d . 627/ 3«

j a c k e t h& m s t u d i o, t o p a l e x a n der wa n g v i a b o u t i q u e 1, s k i r t coach , e a r r i n g s os c ar de l a r en ta v i a b o u t i q u e 1

Invu »T 250 8 « 206

limited edition

tea time photo R aphael Schmitz

Et nia Barcelona »Yokohama«

In the Land of the Rising Sun, the past constantly meets the future. Japanese culture comprises several millennia, while the country continues to absorb and create the most current trends. As a result, Japan is a case study in contrasts. Ancient wood cottages continue to house people, right next to spruced up designer condos. This sense of contrast is also captured by the »Yokohama« model, named after the second-largest city in Japan. Clean and modern on one hand, the limited edition release is rounded and vintage-looking on the other. Starting with a metal and acetate blend, the manufacturing process for the series also relies on precious metals such as gold and platin; a company first. In the process, E tn ia B arcelona captures the essence of Japanese culture: Balance and harmony, implemented in a clear design language with perfectly attuned shapes and materials.

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www.robert-laroche.com 216

D E S I GN TA L K

gentle

EMMA photo Stefan Dongus

The first time we came across the work of Emma Montague was at Silmo 2014 in Paris. Browsing the halls in search of something new and exciting, we were stopped in our tracks at the »Gentle Monster« booth. Aside from the exquisite booth design, what caught our attention was also a specific piece of eyewear: the Gentle Monster X Emma Montague collab. Our encounter in Paris formed the basis for an ongoing exchange with the Australian designer. And needless to say, we jumped at the opportunity to visit Emma in her London home in Spring for this issue’s Design talk.

d e si g n ta l k

» H e i re s s G ol d «

Age: 21, again.

Grown up in: Australia Professional career / education: BA Fine Art (Goldsmithing / Visual Culture) MA Goldsmithing, Silversmithing, Metalwork & Jewellery, Royal College of Art, London

Designer since: Always. Professionally working in high-end design and development since 2006

Eyewear designer since: 2012

Family situation: Absent aunt to 5 crazy country kids Girlfriend to very talented music producer Daughter to a strong, creative woman and role model

Awards: ITS : International Talent Support – Accessories Finalist (2012) The Ian Potter Cultural Trust Travel Grant (2009)

Passions beside design: Travel, cooking (currently experimenting with Middle Eastern cuisine), book club, adornment, image making, and art direction.

Hello Emma, let’s start with the basics. In what way is good design different from bad design?

Hmmm, that’s a tough question. Possibly a subjective scenario, but I dare say you could put it this way: perforated gumboots may be pretty, but they’re not going to work.

What is the special challenge when it comes to designing products?

This subject inadvertently came up in conversation* yesterday. Through the creative process, designers must question themselves; whether it’s »integrated concept design«, or simply »applied concept design«. The former approach usually results in a design with greater impact and resonance. *Discussion and philosophy credit to Jesse Stevens.

Are there any universal rules in the design process? Or does the process rather depend on the products that need to be designed?

Well, I still think the ethos shared by many, but instilled in me by my late Danish grandfather – who was an architect from the Bauhaus period – applies: »Form follows function.« You did a collaboration with Gentle Monster. How did you get in contact with the Korean label?

G en tle M ons ter contacted me.

Where did you get the inspiration for this very special style?

The inspiration for this collection was actually a seren-

D E S I GN TA L K

»Wi d ow«

dipitous find. The idea came about when I noticed the twin forms of my upturned sunglasses sitting parallel to an animal jawbone. It was initially all about form and the surreal merging of the two.

Which materials did you use?

For the collaboration with G en tle M ons ter we developed the design whereby the fragments of the original animal jawbone were recreated in Bone China, the traditional technique of mixing earth and bone ash. I felt that this evocative material was a great innovative choice to resolve the commercialization of the design.

Is it a limited edition? Where can customers buy these frames?

Yes, there is an exclusive limited edition of 100 of both models, the »Widow« and »Heiress Gold«. They are available through G en tle M ons ter and select stockists.

Did you design styles for other eyewear labels as well?

No, my primary vocation is jewellery design and I have worked with a number of jewellery designers and houses. Although, personally, I am trying to bridge the two genres and I have some new eyewear concepts in the making.

At the 2015 100% Optical Show in London you were one of the judges of the design contest. How come?

I suppose you have to have some young blood with fresh eyes on every panel! So I was very proud to

represent that demographic. Also, as a recent Royal College of Art MA graduate myself, I can relate to the students’ creative thinking and processes.

How many entries did the contest receive?

There were 55 entries by students from the Jewellery, Product, Fashion & Textiles RCA courses.

What surprised you the most?

I was surprised by how much fun we, the panel, had together on the first round of judging. It was a privilege and enlightening to share opinions, try on each piece, and debate the merits of each design, together with experts from the industry.

What was important for you while judging the styles?

Although more often than not it is quite simply our visceral response, which dictates our selection, I felt it was important to dig deeper into the students’ sketchbooks and presentations to recognize the originality, motivation and creative potential behind each design.

What is your advice for prospective eyewear designers?

Possibly not to listen to other eyewear designers …

Naivety can be most charming.

Thank you for the interview, Emma.

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Etnia Barcelona »Af r i c a 07«

d r e s s l aya na ag u i l a r

Etnia Barcelona »Af r i c a 02«

d r e s s An g elys Ba lek 214

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NEW

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WE CAME A LONG WAY My name is Julianna Csépe and starting with this issue, I am in charge of designing EYEWEAR Magazine together with my colleague Tomaz Aquino. One thing we both have in common: We came a long way (literally) to designing print magazines for contemporary audiences.

My own path led from my native Budapest all the way to Cologne, Germany, with plenty of creative detours.

My passions are the beautiful things in life, including beautiful shoes, the ocean, pretty (and fast) cars, red fingernails (which I invented), beautiful typography, fashion and art, my boyfriend, nice character traits and wonderfully designed magazines. Tomaz hails from Brazil and he came all the way to Cologne to study design. I continue to be amazed by the sheer scope and diversity of his design repertoire, complemented by his »why not?«-attitude and passion for bicycles. His namesake is also an artist, Thomas Aquinas, although I have to say that Tomaz is the better looking of the two.

Another thing we have in common is our passion for implementing stories and products in a modern and stylish layout. For the past two years, Tomaz has been supporting me in designing QVEST fashion magazine, for which I’ve been art directing for over six years. Of course we were both delighted about the opportunity for applying our design chops to the look of EYEWEAR magazine. After all, it’s any designer’s dream to work on the visual appearance of a fashion-centered print magazine! For this issue, we took it upon ourselves to tweak the overall design a little bit, all the while paying respect to the original. I personally enjoy a clear and quiet aesthetic, even if it means reducing the design here and there in order to free up some breathing room for essentials. My motto has always been, »The reader is not stupid.« On that note, I really hope you like the new look! Have a great time exploring this latest issue of Eyewear!

ACCESSORIES - EYEWEAR - LEATHER GOODS - SADDLERY MAYBACH Icons of Luxury GmbH | Germany | info@maybach-luxury.com | www.maybach-luxury.com www.maybach-shop.com | www.facebook.com/maybachluxury | www.twitter.com/maybachicons „Maybach“ and the „MM“ logo are subject to intellectual property protection owned by Daimler AG. They are used by MAYBACH Icons of Luxury GmbH under licence.

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NICOL AS ROSEILLIER

Der John Varvatos Designer im Interview

LÜBECKER AUGENOPTIK Colibri & Rheingans im Retail Profile

VINTAGE PAGES

Lee Yule Interview & Christian Metzler Portfolio

COLLECTION SHOOTS Issue 14

Face à Face, Colibris, Fleye, Ørgreen

Nr 14 – 11 /2015 D: 6 € | AT: 7,50 € CH: 10 €