T H E
V I SI O N A RY
M AGA Z IN E
11
MARIJA ILJAZOVIC Men @ Work @ Rolf Spectacles
GOOD GUYS & GOOD GLASSES Photo Shoot
BELLINGER ACETATE Collection Check
KLAR / DARMSTADT Retail Profile
EIN LEBEN IM VINTAGE Collectors Check
FEATURES
ETNIA BARCELONA, KAVIAR GAUCHE, LEISURE SOCIETY, MARKUS T, METROPOLITAN, OAKLEY, RAY-BAN, RIGARDS, WHITEOUT & GLARE
Eyewear Road Trip
South African Bohème
E
ENGLISH ISSUE
ACCESSORIES - EYEWEAR - LEATHER GOODS - SADDLERY MAYBACH Icons of Luxury GmbH | Germany | info@maybach-luxury.com | www.maybach-luxury.com „Maybach“ and the „MM“ logo are subject to intellectual property protection owned by Daimler AG. They are used by MAYBACH Icons of Luxury GmbH under licence.
IVKO GmbH | Germany | natural-eyewear@ivko.de | www.natural-eyewear.com
design by lindberg 路 made by lindberg
By Appointment to The Royal Danish Court
NIKOLAJ HĂœBBE / Artistic Director of the Royal Danish Ballet HILARY GUSWILER / Member of the Corps de Ballet, Royal Danish Ballet
orgreenoptics.com
Mas t h e a d
Editor in chief Stefan Dongus dongus@eyewear-magazine.com m: +49.(0)151.14271817 Editor Jana Wenge wenge@eyewear-magazine.com Graphic DESIGN Till Paukstat paukstat@eyewear-magazine.com Sebastian Wegerhoff Frédéric Wiegand Contributors Dirk Vogel Photographers Andreas Andé Martin Bauendahl Orion Dahlmann Stefan Dongus Mert Dürümoglu Ulrich Hartmann Stefan Kapfer Jürgen Lenhardt Christine Lipski Madame Peripetie Reno Mezger Manuel Mittelpunkt Stefanie Neumann Raphael Schmitz Tobias Schult Translation English Version Dirk Vogel Proofreading Franca Rainer
Online Editor Jana Wenge presse@eyewear-magazine.com Publisher Monday Publishing GmbH Kamekestr. 20– 22 50672 Cologne GERMANY t: +49.(0)221.945267-11 f: +49.(0)221.945267-27 CEOs Stefan Dongus Holger von Krosigk Distribution DPV Network GmbH Postfach 570 412 22773 Hamburg GERMANY www.dpv-network.de Print F&W Mediencenter GmbH Holzhauser Feld 2 83361 Kienberg GERMANY www.fw-medien.de COVER Photo: Ulrich Hartmann Styling: Jochen Pohlmann Hair- & Make-Up: Lars Rüffert Models: Geli F @ 20Management Glasses: Lindberg »8504«
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EYEWEAR is published three times per year. This magazine and all its contents may not be re-used, distributed or stored in electronic databases in any way without prior written permission from the publishers. All inquiries regarding the usage of copyrighted materials, as well as the reproduction of excerpts in other formats must be directed to the publishers. The opinions reflected in this magazine do not necessarily reflect those of the publishers. All rights reserved.
Mas t h e a d
Insight Employees of the Issue The 11th issue of EYEWEAR Magazine shines a light on the newest and latest in the exciting world of eyewear. Behind the scenes, we’re fortunate to be working with some of the most gifted and creative minds in their respective fields. In this issue’s Insight section, we’d like to showcase some of the folks that made it all possible: Image maker Madame Peripetie, photographer Tobias Schult and graphic designer Sebastian Wegerhoff.
Sebastian Wegerhoff, Graphic Designer For over a year now, Sebastian Wegerhoff has been working on the graphic design of our magazine and our partner publication, SNEAKERS magazine. A trained carpenter by trade, Sebastian pursued his passion for graphic design at an early age. Before attending classes for communications design, he would decorate public spaces with typefaces and images, entirely free of charge to the building proprietors. After earning his degree, Sebastian spent some time in Munich, Bavaria, but soon returned to Cologne to become a fixture at our offices. A little known fact about Sebastian: He has spent six months of his life living in a mobile home and is the proud owner of a pedal boat, the Unsinkable 2.
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Madame Peripetie, Imagist As a direct descendent of surrealists including Salvador Dali, Madame Peripetie is an award-winning image maker and linguist based in London. The artist uses elaborate styling accessories and her camera to create surprising, powerful images. Last year, we were fortunate to feature two of her works in our The Reason Why column. The main focus of her work lies within the creation of character design infused with surreal and abstract elements, the contemporary hybridized body, its sublime beauty and its study in connection to fashion and design. The Tobias Schult, Photographer objective is always to create an interaction For Berlin-based people, fashion and adbetween the body as a sculpture, language vertising photographer Tobias Schult and conceptual experimentation, united in work and play go hand-in-hand. His an explosion of textures, colors and shapes. studio and workspace is a frequent Madame Peripetie’s clients include Canon, hangout for celebrities including German Topshop, Cutler&Gross, Kris van Assche and actors Jürgen Vogel and Armin Rohde, many more. In this issue, Madame Peripetie which may be due to the comfy atmoscreated the “Wired” photo series. phere of the oversized man cave Schult is cultivating in the German capital. The place feels like home, with its fridge always fully stacked with Club Mate sodas, which his dog Mats will fetch and deliver to the football table, where most of his photo shoots “kick off ”, in the true sense of the word. Next to his commercial work, Schult is known for editorial photography and a focus on expressive portraits and lifestyle shots. A self-proclaimed renaissance man, Tobias enjoys traditional cameras, cars and motorbikes, as well as the finer things in life. He also makes a point of contributing images to almost every issue of EYEWEAR Magazine.
Photo: Ulrich Hartmann Styling: Jochen Pohlmann
EDITORI A L
Variety is the Spice of Life Lef t : Etnia Barcelona »Africa 01« Right : Paul Frank »one way wanderer«
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New York City A rainy day. Writing these lines, I’m
social media efforts put us in touch with
posted up at a cafe right at the intersection
eyewear aficionados around the world.
between posh SoHo, proud Little Italy
Variety is the spice of life – also a great
and colorful China Town. Watching the
mantra for eyewear manufacturers and
spectacle inside and outside the store, it’s
opticians. Ultimately, eyewear is far more
hard to imagine a more vibrant and diverse
than a vision aid, but also a lifestyle and
scene. Everything blends together in the
fashion product. Nowadays, opticians
Big Apple. Old and new, youngsters and
are keeping up with this trend by turning
seniors, past and future. And suddenly,
their shops into boutiques with lounge-
I’m reminded of an experience I had right
like ambiances, setting themselves apart
here, in New York City, about 25 years
from all the nuts-and-bolts opticians still
ago. Walking down the street, a gentleman
focused merely on the technical aspects of
approached me out of nowhere to let me
the craft. Manufacturers are taking great
know: “Variety is the spice of life.” I still
strides to polish their image, creating
have not the faintest idea why he would
moody and stylish image campaigns for
have done such a thing, but the memory
their new lines that rival – and surpass
of this random encounter has stayed
– those of established fashion brands in
with me ever since. Maybe it was a
their upscale aesthetics.
message of some sorts. Or just the seed for
As we speak, avant-garde eyewear
this editorial, written a quarter century
design has become part of the lifestyle
later.
segment. Is that a positive thing? You bet!
Variety is a great way to sum up this
Even more so, it’s a catalyst for the entire
issue. We’re showcasing eyewear from
eyewear industry. When glasses become
all parts of the globe. Our photographers
fashion items and personal mission
captured current lifestyles in places such
statements for modern-day wearers, they
as Berlin, London and Cape Town. Beyond
are far more than a temporary solution,
the printed pages of our magazine, our
discarded at the next opthamologist
EDITORI A L
Variety is the Spice of Life check-up. They become a matter of personal
variety, how about all the different
style. And currently, personal styles are
finishes being perfected these days? Looking at shapes and forms, proven
trending towards modern designs, as well as keeping a second or third pair of glasses
staples like the aviator or cat eye are
on hand to match a variety of outfits.
joined by new and innovative styles that deserve attention. The same goes for
Variety is also the current catchword when it comes to materials used in
colorways. And as far as eyewear labels
eyewear design. It’s no longer about just
go, there has never been more variety in
one particular trend anymore – there’s
terms of labels and manufacturers, than
too much happening all at the same time.
today. In one word, the selection nowadays
Acetate remains a proven classic in the
is gigantic. And with so many choices, it’s
industry. Wood continues to be a
up to the consumers to discover their
factor. And for those looking to hardly be
very own perfect pair of eyewear – and
able to notice their glasses at all, beta
for opticians to nudge them in the right
titanium frames are the way to go. Did
direction. Maybe our magazine can help
we mention horn frames? Definitely
to provide some much-needed guidance
up and coming! Some brands are crafting
on what’s out there, and to encourage
frames from massive blocks of aluminum,
consumers to embrace diversity. Variety
while others are perfecting their own
is the spice of life. Taste it.
proprietary blends of innovative materials. And as if that’s not enough 24
SD
neWS
adrIEn sauvagE X eYe reSPecT Unique! That’s a good way to summarize the collaboration between British designer Adrien Sauvage and eyewear label Eye Respect. The joint project is a match made in heaven. The six frames of the new collection are emblematic of classic 1950s eyewear design: Classic and ever so wearable and comfortable.
KuBoraum Kuboraum is an eyewear label with high artistic aspirations. All designs not only serve a certain function, but embody deeper philosophical concepts. Dressing up in disguises and playing charades, for instance. The resulting glasses crafted from pure buffalo horn not only disguise the face of the wearer, but at the same time have an enhancing effect on individual features. it’s like hiding and standing out, all at the same time.
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haptEr MiliTArY GoGGle On the heels of winning the iF Product Design Award 2013 and the German Design Award 2014, of-the-moment eyewear label Hapter is setting out into unknown territory. Company founders Eric Balzan and Mirko Forti have been working on a goggle crafted from steel (!), coated with merino wool. it’s a bold look, equally stark and unconventional, bound to hit runways in Milan and Paris this coming season.
myKIta Meet Jarvis and Giles, the new eyewear styles in Mykita’s collection. Both speak a clear form language: Double bridge, matted and pretty hip.
neWS
r.t.co Upcoming label R.T.CO originally started as an offshoot of skateboard brand Rollo, which has been keeping the DiY-spirit in the skateboard industry alive since 2006. Doing it yourself is also what Berlinbased designer Tobias Bergmann has been all about with R.T.CO since 2011.
fEndI
Asked about his priorities, Bergmann
italian fashion label Fendi enjoys
said that design is overrated. it’s all
a reputation for furs and luxury
about the where and how of eyewear
leather products. But they also
manufacturing. Which is why Bergmann
know how to turn up the flair
has his frames manufactured at small
meter with flashy eyewear designs,
workshops in italy. R.T.CO might be up
brightening up the day with flashes
to something: The resulting frames are
of color. We especially like the small
really wearable – and really cool.
rivets with pequin stripe engraving.
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www.jfrey.fr
ANIMALS
neWS
ODEEh X lUneTTeS collecTion This marks the very first collabo between ODEEH and eyewear label Lunettes. With their effortless chic and laid-back style, both labels have created their own interpretation of quintessential Paris chic. Je t'aime! 30
Blac - Original & Authentic ... www.blac.dk
neWS
marc JacoBs Having earned a reputation as one of the most important fashion designers in Paris since the late 1990s, Marc Jacobs is always involved in something new. And the audience is always watching closely. After becoming creative director at Louis Vuitton in 1997, he revolutionized the brand’s image into one of the world’s most coveted designer labels. The new
dIor
“MJ 532/S” from his own label’s current
Leather eyewear frames have been used
summer collection once again proves his
since the 15th century for their
golden touch.
sturdiness and superior grip compared to wooden frames. But around 1756, opticians turned their backs on leather frames, having found easier to implement materials. For 2014, DiOR is bringing leather back, starting with the “Blacktie 193/S” model covered entirely in luxury leather.
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CA Z A L 656
44.9626, 9.9055 Autogrill Piacenza
43.8315, 11.1575
41.9010, 12.4810 41.8705, 12.7695
41.8705, 12.7695
How Italian Highways Inspired the Design of Our Sunglasses
44.9626, 9.9055
Doesn’t that sound crazy? That’s what people would probably think of Italian highways being used as inspirations. Well, we’re not talking about highways in general, but the one and only “Autostrada del Sole”! And of course we’re not speaking about concrete and asphalt. The inspirations are given by unique spots, sights, landmarks and historic buildings along this way. Let’s take the Autogrill Piacenza (coordinates: 44.9626, 9.9055): it’s one of the first European socalled “bridge restaurants” that spans the highway. This kind of restaurants designed by the architect Angelo Bianchetti in the late 1950s and beginning of the 60s are still remaining along the highways to this day and their definite and pure lines are reflected in the respective sunglass models.
Another example is the “Chiesa dell’Autostrada del Sole”(coordinates: 43.8315, 11.1575), designed by the architect Giovanni Michelucci in honor of all the workers who lost their lives during the construction period of “Autostrada del Sole”. The neo-expressionistic design of the building, completed in 1964, is a key work of Italy’s organic architecture, and it’s opposed shapes inspire the sunglass design. Those are not the only stimulating buildings along the way: the highway hotel from the movie “Thrilling”, or the famous “Casa Ufo” from the Italian architect Francesco Attanasio were both inspirations for the Strada del Sole collection “il meglio di …”. By the way, the GPS coordinates of each inspiring spot are engraved at the backside of the glasses. Perhaps a good idea to drive down the highway towards the sun?
www.stradadelsole.ch
THE RE A S ON W H Y
Meta-level: The picture within the picture “Can you see the guy with the Cazal glasses?” – “You mean Rouvio with the 616?” – “No, the guy on the T-shirt.” – “Yep, Rouvio.” I’ve always been fascinated by these photographs that contain a smaller version of themselves – a picture within a picture – hidden somewhere in a photo frame or the like. When I was little, I thought that given a strong enough magnifying glass, you could literally lose yourself inside one of these photographs, attaining glimpses of infinity. It’s kind of like looking for the end of the universe – where is it? It’s nowhere to be found, but has to be somewhere. For a partner in crime for a recent “ infinity” photo shoot, I found T-shirt artist Rouvio, who printed an image of himself wearing a pair of Cazals 616s onto a shirt. Get your magnif ying glasses out and take the trip...
P hoto: St efa n Dongus
36
CAZAL »616«
the reASon WhY
MYKITA »oLGA«
38
Heaven My photo agency asked all of their photographers to create a personal piece around the theme “heaven”. Every one of us was to provide an artistic and individual interpretation. My entry follows a very personal approach: “Heaven” to me is not the blue sky above us or the clouds shedding rain, but it’s an elevated feeling. A really comfortable mood, a moment in which you feel up there, like you’re in heaven. And isn’t it also true that an intensely elevated feeling in many cases also comes from feeling attracted to another person? I would agree.
P hoto: facebook .com/mert photo St y l ing: rol fbuck .de H air & M ak e-Up: k er st inhajdu.com Model : A nissa @ Modelw er k .de Fashion: A shirov M art ic / ashirov mart ic .com
the reASon WhY
STRADA DEL SoLE »080AE«
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BoBBleheaDs Say “cheese”, you know you’re on camera! Lots of photos these days are completely staged and superficial, which is also the photographers’ fault. With this “bobblehead” shoot, I wanted to take the whole staged facial expression thing to the next level. These images are caricatures of self-confident women and strong men, always funny and in a great mood. With some extra make-up and Photo-shop magic, we created this series of bobble heads – always smiling, always bobbing along, no matter what life may throw their way. But are these people really always perfectly content, like the photos may suggest? Sometimes, the loudest people are really the most quiet on the inside. And those acting the strongest are really the most frail. To me, the true art of photography lies in capturing the real moods of the people in my pictures. Otherwise, you might as well shoot some bobbleheads.
P hoto: Tobias Schult
the reASon WhY
HoFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR »URBAN 12 H 10«
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All Nature Photographers simply love Cape Town. Not only because of the quality of light, but also the natural, rough atmosphere. Our team was looking forward to taking the trip to the sunny edge of the African continent in January. Our mission was to shoot the latest collection of glasses from Hoffmann Natural Eyewear. And since their glasses are exclusively made from natural resources, we set out to find some “natural” locations for our photo shoots. We ended up with some pretty dramatic backdrops in the woods beneath Table Mountain, the sand dunes of Table View and a dried-up lake in Worcester. And we didn’t mind the bad weather. It’s all part of nature, after all...
P hoto: St efa n K apfer – st efa nk apfer .de H air & M ak e Up: Nicol a Weidema n n – nicol aw eidema n n.de Model : R ahel @ model-pool .de Dr ess : St r ehlow – st r e-low.com
the reASon WhY
PRADA »SPR 09Q«
snow-white & rose-reD One of the major themes in the fairy tale of Snow-White and Rose-Red is the flawless beauty of the two sisters. While Snow-White is quiet and shy, Rose-Red is outgoing and cheerful – and both are described in the Brothers Grimm’s tale as the superlative idea of beauty incarnate. The classic story inspired us to interpret perfect beauty in a contemporary context. Like a fairy tale, too good to be true – but truly beautiful.
P hoto: St efa nie Neuma n n / st efa nie-neuma n n.de A rt Dir ec t ion & Post produc t ion: Ru t h Spil l er / pixelchic .de H air & M ak e-up: Br it ta Nür nberg / br it ta-hair lou nge .de Model s: Val en t ina & K at i @ Model Pool Düssel dor f
44
CHoPARD »SCH 995S«
the reASon WhY
GöTTI »HAMLET«
46
Fleeting Momen ts Nosliw is a musician and a creative thinker. Much like me, Nosliw is always searching for inspiration, for new ideas to implement in our work. And sometimes these ideas are only fleeting moments that float by like smoke in the wind. Then it’s up to us whether or not we can make this fleeting moment into something that will last and have an impact on observers. Or if we miss the opportunity and let it pass by, float away into the ether... So the biggest achievement behind the artistic process is to recognize this short impulse, this short flash of inspiration and run with it until it becomes reality – whether it’s music or photography.
P hoto: Tobias Schult
THE RE A S ON W H Y
Strada del Sole »No.9016«
Zoo Theft
BY ULRICH HARTMANN
In the eccentric road movie based on Jonas Jonasson’s novel The 100-Year-Old Man Who Climbed Out the Window and Disappeared, an elderly man with an elephant in tow is on the run from the Swedish police and Israeli secret service, among others. It’s an incredible chase, so much larger than life. Or is it? When I traveled to Cape Town, South Africa, for a photo shoot for Eyewear Magazine together with stylist Jochen Pohlmann, we made an equally crazy experience: We met up with our models Geli and Bee, provided by North-South Productions at the scenic Saxenburg Wine Estate & Wildlife Park. And since our models were running a little early, they decided to take advantage of the location and do a “little” wine tasting. Just as we finished setting up for the photo shoot, the top-shelf wines began taking full effect. Geli and Bee somehow got hold of a zebra(!) and began making their way towards Cape Town! The ensuing chase scene could have been straight out of a movie: Our crew raced after the two models, closely followed by the park’s gamekeepers, who were not very thrilled about the whole scene unfolding in the urban jungle. At the end of the day, Geli and Bee almost got away. If it hadn’t been for the throngs of onlookers, the gamekeepers would never have caught us. (Page 100 – 110). 48
www.facebook.com/metropolitan.eyewear
OWP Brillen GmbH, www.metropolitan-eyewear.de htp.de
RG0005
RG0026
RG0020
RG0002
RG0010
d e S i G n AWA r d
RiGaRDS nonConfoRMiSt eYeWeaR The brand name Rigard is derived from the French word “regard”, meaning “to look at” or “to pay attention”. And garnering attention is what Rigard’s eccentric eyewear styles are all about. Admitted, these are not your everyday horn frames, and their nonconformist edge takes some self confidence on behalf of the wearer. Then again, designer Ti Kwa is committed to defying pre-established conventions in his artistic process. Rules are for other people, Ti Kwa’s designs are unconstrained and bold, and... pretty loud.
Behind the scenes, the playful design approach is subject to harsh quality standards. One out of two designs will never make it into production and ends up being thrown out after undergoing Rigard’s rigorous selection process. Ultimately, every piece of hand-made eyewear released by Rigard is emblematic of the upcoming label’s design language and attitude. With a broad variety of styles and attention to detail, the label has already built and impressive legacy. Congrats are in order: We present this issue’s Design Award to Rigard. Look at that!
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52
Clothing : Bill + Mar
by Madame Peripe tie
J. F. Rey »Hold Up«
Clothing : Peridot London
Rolf ÂťMajestic 82ÂŤ
54
Strada del Sole »8836«
Clothing : Escada Spor t
Funk ÂťFortunaÂŤ
56
Clothing : Monkl
Clothing : JC de Castelbajac
Adrian Marwitz »Stranger No. 9«
Clothing : Monkl
Martin & Martin ÂťIngeÂŤ
58
Clothing : Tabitha Webb
Etnia Barcelona ÂťArnhemÂŤ
Clothing : Hugo Boss
Markus T ÂťT3033198ÂŤ
60
LINDBERG »6523« Clothing : Tara Jarmon
Clothing : Heohwan Simulation
Hamburg Eyewear »Hinnerk«
62
Photos: Madame Peripetie @ Mark George | Photo assistant: Panos Damaskinidis | Assistants: Lesley-Ann Daly, Nirma Madhoo Styling: Stella Arion | Fashion assistants: Sofia Drakou, Ruhani Singh | Make-Up: Marina Keri using BECCA Hair: Muamera Pulic @ STILPLATTE using Bumble & Bumble | Props: Emily Pugh | Props assistant: Josceline O'Sullivan Model: Tatjana @ Profile
Clothing : YSL
Götti »Alley«
SnEakEr hEaDS
adidas | ZX Flux
b y M an u e l M itte l p u n k t
Invu »P 2400«
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Lacoste | Barbuda
Coblens »30052 Tankwart«
Vans | oT W Tesella
ETNIA BARCELoNA »Africa 03«
66
KangaRooS | Blaze
IC! BERLIN »S25 Tegel«
Vans | Era
WooDoNE » Alpin 01 «
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PUMA | Disc
BoLLÉ »6th Sense 11843«
Reebok | GL 6000
Police » S 1936 «
W a n t m o r e S n e a k e rs ? C h e c k o ur S i s t e r M a g a z i n e ! www . s n e a k e rs - m a g a z i n e . c o m
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w w w. fle y e . d k
A dark collection of extreme lightness
Photos: Stefan Dongus
MEN @ W OR K
Material girl: Floors, chairs, walls and glasses – it’s all about wood for Mary.
72
ROlF SPeCTACleS X M ARIjA IljAZOVIC » TYROleAN TIMBeR-WOMeN « There’s a first time for everything. In this edition of Men @ Work, we’re actually showcasing our very first woman at work. What took us so long? Could it be that eyewear design is a men’s domain? Or maybe we just never came across a designer as
talented
and
well-rounded
as
Marija
Iljazovic.
When
we
met Marija at Rolf Spectacles headquarters in the town of Weissenbach in the mountainous Tyrol region, we were blown away by the former snowboard instructor’s versatility and drive. We’re talking about drive in the literal sense here, as she briefly interrupted our tour to maneuver a wayward forklift out of the way without missing a beat. Marija also took the time to walk us through the intricacies of Rolf’s custom-made manufacturing machinery for their unique wooden frames. Through it all, the passion and dedication in the way Marija Iljazovic approaches her job at Rolf Spectacles shines through in every aspect. live from the Tyrolean woodlands, here’s the woman behind the wooden frames in her own words.
men @ WorK
Mary,
you’re
the
first
female
designer tobe featured in our Men @ Work section. Do we need to change the name? ROLF FIREFLITE
Men @ Work, Women @ Work, People @ Work… It’s an honor to be the first woman featured here. Rolf
Spectacles
reputation
has
built
forwooden
a
eyewear
frames. But honestly, were you the first company to craft from this
ROLF HORNET
rawmaterial? people
technical innovations such as the
began crafting the first frames from
wooden hinges and the lens mounting
wood, wire and carved semi-precious
further
stones for the lenses. Wood has
We
always been a factor in eyewear
manufacturers of wooden eyewear.
manufacturing ever since. We see
We would like to be able to combine
it as our mission to put wood as a
functionality
raw material in a new perspective
our frames, and stay true to our
in today’s eyewear industry. We
philosophy. Our goal is to keep
want the implementation to be novel
surprising the industry with new
and without compromise. This is
and innovative products.
About
500
years
ago,
how we arrived at our basic shape with the curvature at the sides to create a fluid transition between the front and the temples. Our 74
do
complement not
define
and
the
frame.
ourselves
aesthetics
as
in
From the village of Weissenbach to the world market: ROLF spectacles is known across the globe for quality and innovation.
High tech meets nature: Even computer and RFID cases are individually crafted from wood.
MEN @ W OR K
Your brand communications always in Weissenbach with the aim of emphasizeyour regional origins. Is creating
the
perfect
pair
of
the wood from the Tyrol region actually glasses in terms of durability, better than elsewhere, or is it a comfort
and
matter of personal attachment to really your home?
aesthetics.
high
level
of
requires
This
quality
outstanding
The ties to our native region are craftsmanship as well as an invery important to us as a family house
research
and
development
business. We want to keep living departmentworking towards our goal our values, even as the company every single day. This is why it’s continues to grow. Rolf is about hard for us to imagine to surrender natural, genuine eyewear, crafted control
of
some
parts
of
the
with a passion and attention to production process. Outsourcing is detail. The craftsmanship and our absolutely out of the question for dedication are fundamental to our us. success. And based on the regional location
of
our
manufacturing As a designer at Rolf Spectacles,
branch, we not only run a lean and you play a major part in the entire responsive process in development production pro cess. What is your and
production,
but
we’re
also personal background andwhat kind of
supporting our region.
qualifications led to your current role?
Next to giving back to the region, As
a
what kind advantages does running civil
blueprint
designer
engineering,
I
in
attained
your own workshop offer in terms of skills in sketching and CAD. And quality?
working as a snowboard instructor
We craft every single one of our together frames in our manufacturing plant how 76
to
with be
Roland
taught
self-sufficient.
me And
Walking the halls, operating a forklift: Mary maintains a hands-on approach.
all of a sudden I found myself
I’m responsible for creating the
working in eyewear distribution.
final form. But there are design
All of these experience and lots
and
project
of learning-by-doing paved the way
made
in
to being able to see an eyewear
with the research and development
design through from the initial
department.
sketch all the way to the final NC files for production. Do you work in creative isolation or areother people involved in the design process?
decisions close
that
are
communications
MEN @ W OR K
What’s your usual design process
also think that on a sub conscious
from startto finish?
level, people collect a vast number
For us, every new set of frames
of impressions every day, which you
starts with a vintage car.They’ve
can draw on at the right time. Time
always
first
spent with my two dogs and horses
Volkswagen
plays a great part in my life and
set
fascinated
of
wheels
us.
was
My
a
bug! Twice as old as myself, it inspired
me
to
get
my
offers some much-needed balance.
drivers
license. Roland’s first car was a
What are the main tools of your
Mercedes 8. When we go about form
trade?Pen and paper or modern-day
finding for new frames, we decide
CAD-software?
on a particular make of vintage
With
car and also consider technical,
steps and our mostly rather tight
optical
timelines
and
historical
aspects.
the
sequence in
of
mind,
production
CAD-software
After laying down the construction
is getting the upper hand, since
we go right into manufacturing the
these files are the foundation for
first prototypes. And although we can
producing the first prototypes.
already try the glasses on after a short amount of time, the most
With
your
extensive
exciting part about manufacturing
expertise,
is the hands-on manual work.
responsibilities
do
you
technical take
on
beyond
pro duct
founded
our
company,
of
part ners
design? Next to vintage automobiles, where
When
do you find inspiration in your
the
constellation
daily job?
also
put
The first line of inspiration are
resources
indeed vintage cars, which offer
may sound contradictory, but both
the basis for our designs. But I
of 78
we
these
me
in
and
charge
of
accounting.
departments
human Which
actually
Âť The first line of inspiration are indeed vintage cars, which offer the basis for our designs. ÂŤ
men @ WorK
complement one another quite well. Sounds
like
serious
multi-tasking.
you
put
it
such
takes
great
some
Why
do
emphasis
on not using any metal in your frames,
even
Well,
pair
a
in of
the
ROLF CAMARO
hinges?
wooden
frames
with a metal bolt is only a pair of
wooden
bolt
in
frames
it.
But
with
a
wooden
metal frames
with wood hinges are genuinely wooden
frames.
even
a
small ROLF COUGER
metal bolt can be rather painful for Wooden
people hinges
advantage
of
with also being
allergies. the
open and close the hinges to see
anti-static
why we consider them the perfect
offer
and maintenance-free, since the
solution
hinges don’t open or close on their
When it comes to lens setting,
own and also have a block before
resorting
touching the lenses. These kind
also not an option for us, since
of technical properties can only
we would never be able to offer
be attained by most manufacturers
thin-rimmed frames. Wooden frames
of metal hinges by resorting to
suffer from stability issues when
springs and other kinds of labor-
the frame needs to be perforated
intensive trickery. everyone can
for
pick up a pair of Rolf frames and
consists
80
some
for to
wooden metal
reason. of
a
frames.
screws
Our
is
solution
proprietary,
system
From our product sample cases all
that unlocks thinly framed designs
the way to our entire tradeshow
without
a
booth, Rolf Spectacles is hands-
standard bevel design in a cold
on about creating the look of our
lens fitting process, this could
company.
never be achieved at high quality
passion
standards.
something personal and unique are
tension-free
lens-fitting
metal
inserts.
With
Attention and
a
to
drive
our motivating factors. The entire “screwless” concept is not limi ted to your frames, but also the design of your glasses cases and product sample cases. What’s the motivation?
to
detail, create
MEN @ W OR K
a great degree of flexibility when it comes to realizing even some understated designs. A while ago you began incorporating glasses
into
from
wider
a
your
spread
materials,including What are the challenges when it
horn.Is
it
comes
frames
specialist
todesigning
eyewear
from
line
okay
made
of
raw
bamboo
and
for
a
wooden
to
craft
wood? Some things are just not
spectacles from horn?
possible, right?
There can’t be any limits when
We’ve made it our job to make the
you’re creating something that’s
seemingly impossible happen. But
never been done before. Due to
it’s important to stay true to our
our
philosophy and never stop halfway.
in
Ultimately, the wood itself is in
we
charge of the design as it lends
glasses
every set of frames its own unique
material. The Rolf horn frame is
look.
the first of its kind that’s been
experience producing could
and
competence
eyewear
frames,
theoretically from
any
produce
type
of
crafted entirely from horn. Thanks Are there certain frame designs
to the curvature at the edges of
that are impossible to implement
the middle section, the transition
in wood?
from the front to the temples is
Rimless
glasses
could
seamless,
be
while
the
continuity
technical
enhances the overall structure. The
features behind Rolf eyewear offer
pureHorn line is crafted entirely
problematic...
The
82
» We’ve made it our job to make the seemingly impossible happen. « from horn. The hinges are crafted
international recognition at many
from horn as well, thereby creating
industry awards. When I created
the very first entirely horn frames.
the Dino model for Silmo 2011, I literally could not wait – despite
There
are
also
combinations
of
our
speedy
in-house
production
stone-wood
process – to try on the first set of
frames. Are these styles rather
stone frames. With this material,
labor-intensive
it’s also true that the stone itself
materials
suchas
the from
a
design
perspective?
with its structure and color palette
We’re really proud of the stone
is playing its own hand into the
frames.
combining
design process and final outcome.
shale with wood has garnered us
And we only saw after previewing
Our
idea
of
MEN @ W OR K
the first stone video clip, what a
Which
powerful addition stone can be to a
designed
set of Rolf frames. At the time, the
favorite? And is it also popular
material
with fans?
was
rather
unknown
in
one
of is
been
the
models
your
faithful
to
you
personal
the eyewear industry, but now you
I’ve
my
Farina
can see it offered by numerous
glasses for two years now. And they
other manufacturers in the eyewear
turned out to be a hot seller.
industry. Wooden frames have become rather Next to your main line, there’s
popular.There are not only numerous
also
manufacturers,but a great number
an“advanced”
collection.
What’s the difference?
of glasses that maynot be made from
The Rolf “advanced collection –
wood, but offer a “wood”finish. How
the next level of wooden eyewear”
do you view this trend?
is marked by its own form language
The entire perception, consciousness
in
and
a
unique
three-dimensional
purchase
decision-making
implementation. Depending on the
process among consumers – meaning
observer’s point of view, the unique
what they’re buying and what they’re
interaction
wearing – is increasingly trending
of
different
blends
of wood appears in a new light.
towards
The main collection, on the other
entered the market in 2009, there
hand, is very clear in its design
were hardly any other manufacturers
language and combinations of woods.
of wooden frames besides Herrlicht.
In both collections, the final hand-
The trend of an increasing amount of
crafted touch is what makes each
manufacturers resorting to natural
pair of frames, from the “advanced”
materials and some degree of copy-
and
true
catting of Rolf designs is further
craftsmanship.
proof that our idea is successful. We
“main”
piece
of
collections,
upscale
a
84
sustainability.
When
we
Hard at work: Mary gets her design inspiration from vintage automobile magazines.
ROLF PENNANT
men @ WorK
respect everyone pursuing their own thing. But it can be infuriating to encounter attempts at plagiarizing our proucts and image. how
do
you
deal
with
these
cases?
Everything is “Made in Tyrol” – from design all the way into production.
For us it’s an added motivation to constantly keep progressing. Do you think wood could turn out to
be
a
short-lived
trend,
or
does it have a futureas a staple raw
material
in
the
eyewear
industry? Wood is a natural, timeless raw material and thereby sustainable and not subject to any trends. It’s more of a statement and way of life. There’s always been wood in the eye-wear industry, and there always will be. We have played our part in establishing it on the market. Mary, thanks for the interview and the tour.
86
CAROLIN/INTERNATIONAL TRADER/ WEARS MARKUS T 100% Handmade in Germany
d e tA i L S
lEISuRE SOCIET Y V O lTA I R E
It’s all in the details. Here at EYEWEAR Magazine, we’re always keeping an eye out for eyewear designs that set the tone and lead the way where others try to f ollow. For this edition’s Details column, we’re zooming in on a pair of Leisure Society glasses. Designer Shane Baum’s prestigious eyewear label is known for eschewing flashy logos in favor of a signature design language marked by a passion for quality materials and subtle details. Take this frame, for instance: Crafted from 100% titanium and coated with 18 karat gold with contrasting inlays in the front section, complemented by temple tips from genuine buffalo horn. The lenses are polarized CR-39 with waterrepellent and scratch-resistant coating. Perfection.
Photos: Raphael Schmitz
88
i LiKe!
W i n n e r s G a L L e ry With over 500 exhibitors and 1,200 brands from 34 countries, opti tradeshow in Munich, Germany, was a blast. During our three-day outing at opti, we met an amazing amount of great people, handed out over 5,000 copies of EYEWEAR magazine and took just as many digital portraits. After two days of picking our favorites and applying some filters and final touch-ups, we spent a week posting the best shots for our Facebook followers to vote on. So without further ado, here are the five winners:
KILSGAARD
Jacob
273 Likes
90
WooDoNE
Josef
256 Likes
MAINHATTAN
Axel
240 Likes
FUNK
CAZAL
Maria
218 Likes
92
Christian
208 Likes
GooD
GUys
GOOD
GlASSES
Some say that glasses are for geeks. But that’s a dated stereotype. Because whoever said you can’t be smart and have lots of fun at the same time? On the following eight pages, we’re showcasing some of the fun-loving folks that dropped by our booth at opti eyewear tradeshow this year. Colorful characters that are living proof that “glasses in the front, party in the back” is not an exception to the rule, but a way of life. Get ready to meet the Smart Guys of the eyewear business.
UNDoSTRIAL
lUCaS: the fReethinkeR Lucas de Stael von Holstein always looks like he’s recovering from a wild night of parties when we meet him at tradeshows. Which makes us like him even more. Plus the fact that he is the grandson of Russian painter Nicolas de Staël von Holstein and has graduated from ENSCI-Les Ateliers in 2003. 94
TARIAN
JÜRGen: the PhilanthRoPe While on an expedition through the Himalaya region, Jürgen Altmann from Munich found out that people there are unable to afford sufficient sun-protecting eyewear. Ever since then, the philanthropist has been collecting sunglasses and sending them into the Ladakh region. So far, his Shades of Love project has shipped more than 8,000 pairs of sunglasses. This ranks Jürgen very high on the list of coolest people in our book.
Good GuYS
L’AMY
PaBlo: the aRtiSt Inspired by iconic graffiti writers such as Can2, Loomit or Toast, one day Pablo Fontagnier assumed the handle Hombre. Graffiti has offered Hombre a rich canvas for expressing all the characters, shapes and colors wandering through his creative mind, making the world a brighter place one dull, gray wall at a time.
96
kinG De la SalSa: the PiMP Nobody knows where he came from – or what his story may be. He just popped up at our booth and instantly became the center of attention. But one thing’s for certain: This colorful bird of paradise has more than earned his spot in this collection of portraits.
CAZAL
Good GuYS
JenS: the MiniMaliSt For decades, Denmark has been building a reputation for functional, timeless design classics. William Sørensen, founder of eyewear label Nine, is also banking on the quintessential combination of minimalist design and maximum quality.
NINE
CARLoTTAS VILLAGE
Bo: the hUnteR Bo Dokkedal Leth used to have a career as – wait for it – a boxer! But a slew of injuries forced him to hang up the gloves, and pick up a hunting rifle. Whenever he’s not camped out in his hide in his very own forest waiting for game, he’s taking charge in his job at Carlottas Village. Which also involves hunting, in a way, for new customers, sales reps and distributors. 98
RolanD: the ViSionaRY
RoLF SPECTACLES
FUNK
CoCo: the BeaUtY Coco Meurer is heading up the marketing department at Funk Eyewear, while also moonlighting as a fashion writer. She’s also the only woman to make it into this photo spread. And she almost made the top 5 in our Facebook vote. Anyways, she’ll always be the prettiest woman in eyewear to us.
According to Roland Wolf, the founder of eyewear brand Rolf Spectacles, there are 78 steps in the work process from raw billet to finished frames. The man knows his field. After all, his wooden frames have been picking up awards left and right.
Good GuYS
ti kWa: the aeSthete Ti Kwa from Malaysia is designing Rigards eyewear from rough buffalo horn. This task involves countless hours spent hunting for suitable raw materials and designs. The name “Rigards” is based on the French word “regard”, meaning “to take a look”. And taking a close gander is definitely worth it in this case – Rigards hand-made horn frames are really something else!
RIGARDS
SVen: MC fUnk SvenKatmando-Christ is not only an individual with an unconventional name – he really is an unconventional person. With a penchant for leather jackets with fur collars, he’s in charge of look books and artist relations at Cazal, and he also finds the time to spin funk records on weekends.
CAZAL
100
JakoB: JaCk of all tRaDeS KILSGAARD
Jakob is a trained optician as well as partner and sales director at Kilsgaard. The three-time father and passionate golf player is in charge of technical aspects at Kilsgaard. Calling himself the “Technical Joint Dude”, he forms the intersection between technical customer requirements and the Kilsgaard design department.
JÉRÉMY: the aVantGaRDiSt If you work in the eyewear business, you know Jérémy Tarian. It’s that simple. The Frenchman is known – much like his famous father Alain Mikli – for designing highly coveted eyewear.
JEREMY TARIAN
Good GuYS
ENToURAGE oF 7
JakoB talBo: the tRaVelleR “Jakob, are you in Denmark or in L.A.?” – “I’m in San Francisco!“ – “Ah... of course!” It’s always hard to keep track of where Jakob and his famous entourage are at, mostly because if his job as sales director at Bellinger House. The fact that he knows every other celebrity around L.A. and supplies them with glasses also adds to his world-traveling, cosmopolitan charms.
etienne: the netWoRkeR SUZY GLAM
102
Some brands gain their strength from talented, but shy people pulling the strings behind the scenes without drawing too much attention to themselves. As a co-founder of Suzy Glam, Etienne Frederiks played a key role in winning the brand its 2013 Hall of Frames Eyestylist Newcomer Award in gold.
UNDoSTRIAL
iBRahiMa: kinG of the RoaD Ibrahima was already a dominating force in last year’s opti photo shoot. Compared to this bloke, all other so-called “men” are hardly young whippersnappers in the late throngs of puberty. But beneath his rough exterior, Ibrahima proves to be charming, humorous and highly accessible. And all of these qualities sure come in handy in his job as a sales rep for Tarian and Lucas de Stael.
ChRiStoPh: the MUlti-StYleR He knows the business, and knows how to party. He is a cosmopolitan gentleman, but also looks good in a bike racing suit. His Berlin-based design office is always on the move, wherever he goes. Anyone looking for Kilsgaard glasses in Germany knows what to do: Call Christoph.
KILSGAARD
coLLectorS checK
christian MetZLer f RoM ‘70S to ‘90S
a l if e of V in taGe Getting the name of your favorite eyewear brand tattooed on your middle finger is pretty hardcore. And it’s a serious testament to being passionate about high-end eyewear design. Enter seasoned eyewear collector and facial hair horticulturist Christian Metzler from the quaint little town of pforzheim,
Germany.
The
well-traveled
people
photographer with the CAZAL logo tatt’ed on the side of his knuckles can also back up his ink with an enormous eyewear collection. We visited the soft-spoken 33-yearold in his home, where he likes to hold court right in front of a repurposed optician’s glasses display, which he hoisted into his living room with five of his friends. here’s Christian’s life of vintage eyewear, in his own words. Photo: Stefan Dongus
105
CO L L ECTOR S CHEC K
Christian, how many glasses are in your
Alpina M6. And it’s been on ever since, the
collection right now?
search never ends!
Great question! Honestly, I haven’t counted
Are there any glasses you collect in
them in a while. But overall, there are more
particular? Certain brands or styles, or is
than one thousand. I’d eyeball it at around
it wide open for you?
1,600 pairs right now. And there are always
Whenever someone asks me, I tell them:
more coming in...
I collect glasses from the late Seventies, the horrible Eighties and the early Nineties.
Around 1,600? And you’re not done yet?
Which means that glasses from this era
No, I don’t think there’s an end in sight. I’m
are my focus, but it also depends on the
not done yet.
individual make and model and how I like it. I collect prescription frames as well as
When did you start collecting? And what
sunglasses, and men’s and women’s styles
attracted you to eyewear?
just the same. Over the years, one particular
I started about ten years ago. The initial
brand has emerged as a favorite: CAZAL!
trigger was a pair of black Alpina M1s, which
But I still collect pretty much anything that
my girlfriend at the time gave me as a gift.
catches my eye.
She picked them up at a flea market for 1 euro, but they were too big, so I ended
Which styles do you like the best?
up with them. I really loved that particular
Looking at the whole thing closely, I would
model and wore it a whole lot. Then one
say aviator frames.
day, I watched the video to the Jay-Z song “Show Me What You Got” and saw him
Which model is your all-time favorite?
wearing the same glasses! So I googled the
Ah man, that’s a tough question! If you
model and brand and learned about vintage
would ask about certain brands and my
eyewear for the very first time. Then I went
favorite model in their collection, that would
to a flea market myself and hunted down an
be much easier. But hey, I’ll give it a shot: The
106
Time to expand: The collection has outgrown the eyewear display!
Alpina Goldwing, Cazal 627 and 642, and the Alpina M1. That’s a classic selection. Are there any current eyewear labels that tickle your fancy? Yes and no. i pay attention to modern-day labels and models, but i mostly end up liking the re-releases of old classics. Or i end up in desperation about the utter lack of originality, with which current labels are biting old treasures. Here and there, there’ll be new
i ColleCt GlaSSeS fRoM the late SeVentieS, the hoRRiBle eiGhtieS anD the eaRlY ninetieS.
coLLectorS checK
ALPINA GoLDWING
most well-adjusted adults keep their TV set. Isn’t that a bit much? i don’t really watch TV and the eyewear display has really great mood lighting. So i wouldn’t call it over the top. Most of the glasses in my collection are much prettier and way more interesting than 90% of all TV glasses that i’m hyped about. But most of the
programs.
time, these end up being really expensive. Like the Celine gold chain shades or the
Do you take your eyewear treasures out
Chanel 5202 with mirrored temples, which i
for a walk sometimes, or are they kept in
recently purchased.
an ivory tower?
Speaking of expensive eyewear, does your collection get heavy on the wallet? You’ve amassed a pretty sizable – and
Of course i’m out rocking some of my treasures! Not all of them, but definitely more than other collectors.
valuable – collection here. Enough to buy
Speaking of collectors, what’s the big
an apartment in pforzheim, no?
attraction to collecting eyewear? What
Well, looking at what people on the internet
are the most joyful moments about the
like to charge for some of my frames, it’s
whole thing?
surely enough to buy an apartment. But i
i’ve always had an urge to be a collector
really don’t use my collection for trading
of something, but i just couldn’t decide
that much, it’s not something i want to be
on anything cool. Until i came across my
a part of. And i think that price levels on the
first M1s. The nice thing about glasses
internet can be totally over the top at times.
is that you can actually wear them.
You display your treasured collection right
And the best moments are clearly when
in the middle of your living room, where
you find a particular model that you’ve
108
been after for a long time. Maybe you’ve been searching for six years and then BOOM! – you’re holding it in your hands. And you also know that there’s an entire community of collectors smiling with you. Or when you find a pair of glasses you had no idea even existed, a super cool model you’ve never seen before. Another great moment is when you trade with another collector and both parties end up expanding their collections in the process. And it’s also great when you can arrange to get a certain model for
Sometimes when Christian is especially enamored with a pair of glasses, his roommate will craft him a matching ring, like this Cazal 163 piece.
ALPINA M1
coLLectorS checK
another collector and help him out... that
up cash for new purchases. After all, the
always makes me super happy!
funds for the collection have to come from somewhere.
Do you ultimately sell your glasses at some point or are they strictly for keeps?
What was your most pricey purchase so far?
No, i’m not selling them. There are rare
i think my Cazal 627.
exceptions. Since i don’t aim to make any profit from my collection, i’m part of a pretty
And which model took the most effort to
elite commu-nity of collectors. i know lots
hunt down?
of people in the “vintage eyewear” scene
Another tough one! (laughs) Depends on
who are collectors. But most of them will
how you define effort. For example, i’ve
try to make some kind of profit from it on
waited for several months to get my hands
the side, if they can. As for me, i personally
on a Cazal 634, which i traded for another
never had the goal of making money from
pair of glasses. i had a Persol 714 Ratti and
collecting eyewear. But there have been
some collectors were ready to pay top dollar
instances when i sold a pair of glasses, for
for it, or negotiate a really generous trade.
example when i had an extra pair of the same
There were some pretty good offers, but
model or a friend or collector was looking
this one collector from italy asked me to
for that exact pair of glasses. Ultimately, the
trust him and keep the Persol on hold for
main motivation in these cases is to free
him. He said it would take some time, but ultimately he would be able to trade me an
CAZAL 627
extremely rare Cazal 634. So i took a leap of faith and agreed to wait. And it paid off, since i’m now the proud owner of one of the rarest Cazal styles of them all, the 634!
110
And which glasses were the best bargain? Cartiers and Boeings, for 1.50 euros a piece. That’s never going to happen again, ever. But those were some of the happiest moments as a collector. You probably won’t reveal any of your sources or inside scoops, right? if you know exactly which model you’re looking for, the internet is a good place
SoMeDaY, i Want to Go on a JoURneY aRoUnD the WoRlD to ViSit all ColleCtoRS to take theiR PoRtRaitS foR a Book.
to start. Or you may want to reach out to someone like me with connections to collectors and traders worldwide. Most models are still available somewhere, if you know where to look. So don’t hesitate to ask, i’m always happy to help!
CAZAL 634
coLLectorS checK
There seems to be an internationally
i don’t need a nickname! My user name on
connected collectors community. how do
instagram, where i like to showcase a lot of my
you communicate with each other?
collection is CHRiSTiANMETZLERCOM.
You’re right, it really is an international
But other than that, i operate under my
network. Straight off the bat, the following
real name, which is also a way of keeping it
countries
honest.
come
to
mind:
Germany,
Switzerland, Austria, Holland, Finland, Sweden, italy, Egypt, Turkey, Denmark,
With so much love for a product – one
Greece, Japan, Thailand, Canada and the
that’s also taking up lots of space in your
U.S. i know collectors in all these places
apartment – is there room in your life for
and we communicate via Facebook.
another person? Plenty of room, actually!
how can people join this community? Is there some kind of code of conduct or
Does your partner need to share your
initiation for newbies?
love of eyewear, or simply refrain from
Not really, except having an interest in
destroying your collection in a fit of
glasses and their history and design.
jealousy?
it’s also important to be honest in your
My partner can do as she likes. But my lovely
interactions with others in the community.
Nadia does share my fascination with glasses
Unfortunately, some pretty ugly things have
and sunglasses... to some degree. Especially
gone down between some collectors and
since i told her that her face is shaped
some “wannabe” collectors (mostly people
perfectly for 1990s frames. Everything by
looking for a quick buck), which have sort of
Versace, Fendi, Gaultier etc. that’s not too
dampened the mood in the scene.
huge and oval-shaped looks like customfitted on her. And if the whole eyewear thing
Do you have a handle or nickname in the
gets too much for her, i can kick it with my
collector’s community?
brother Dennis who caught the eyewear
112
bug from me and will forever share my
a living. I’m super happy to photograph
passion.
people and look forward to getting up every day and heading over to the studio
A guy like you would seem more at home
or a photo shoot.
in a metropolis like Cologne or Berlin,
What’s the biggest attraction about
not in quaint and conservative Pforzheim.
photography?
How come you never left?
Being in touch with so many people. My
Thanks! Pforzheim is my home, I was
main line of work is peoplephotography, so
born and raised here. The great thing
I get to meet lots of different individuals. I
about my job is that I get around a lot
also like to be able to direct the shoot. I get
without being tied to one place. So I get
to tell people how to position themselves,
to breathe some city air whenever I like,
how to look and act. And I can control the
also since Pforzheim is only 40 minutes
lighting – from broad daylight to moody
away from Stuttgart and 30 minutes from
sunsets... All of that is really great fun
Karlsruhe and two hours from the Swiss
Is there a common denominator between
border. France is also super close! I may not
those two passions, taking photos and
stay here forever, but right now I’m totally
collecting eyewear?
comfortable.
Except being able to draw on my collection as props for photo shoots, not really. But
When
you’re
not
roaming
online
I actually have a dream to connect both
platforms in search of new treasures,
of these worlds. Someday, I want to go
you make a living as a photographer. Is
on a journey around the world to visit all
your life behind the lens simply a means
collectors to take their portraits for a book.
to pay for your expensive hobby, or are you also passionate about your work?
That sounds like an amazing project.
I love my job! And my work feels less like
Does your passion for collecting extend
“work” as for most people having to make
into other areas besides eyewear?
CO L L ECTOR S CHEC K
Next to eyewear, I collect a bit of luxury
history behind the brand and the storied
goods from the Eighties and Nineties. I
connection to hip-hop culture make Cazal
have a small collection of vintage designer
something really special in this world of
jewelry and MCM leather goods, as well
eyewear. And I always get to wear Cazal,
as the occasional Gianni Versace silk shirt,
even when I left my glasses at home – just
belts or scarfs by Chanel, Balmain, MCM.
put a finger over a my eye and there you go!
And Rolex watches. Are you sure you’ll still be into the logo in Other tattoo aficionados will end up
20 years?
getting the name of their first-born child
Oh well, that’s always the probing question
inked onto their body. Your right middle
behind getting a tattoo, but let’s turn it
finger is adorned with the CAZAL brand
around: The positive thing about a tattoo
logo. What’s special about that brand?
is that it’s forever and you can be sure of
It’s because Cazal advanced to become my
it. There are really not that many things in
absolute favorite brand within the shortest
life that are really 100% forever! And I also
amount of time. The design, the entire114think that collecting eyewear in one way or another will still be a part of my life in 20 years, so the Cazal logo will be a positive
reminder on my skin at all times.
Christian, thanks so much for the interview.
114
Necklaces: Ida Elsje & Olive Green Cat / Jumpsuit: Filippa K
Hapter »M01M«
Makellos „ME 5008 “
by U lric h Hartmann
Photos: Ulrich Hartmann | Photo Assistant: Leon Production: North South Production | Styling: Jochen Pohlmann Hair- & Make-Up: Lars R眉ffert with products from Lanc么me, Armani und YSL Making of Video: Astrid Gleichmann Models: Geli F @ 20Management | Bee @ Boss Models
Glasses left + right Munic Eyewear »Mod.4«
118 Clothing left Leather-Shir t: m Muubaa / Shor ts: Top Shop Clothing right Top: Epanoui by Eva Poleschinski / Pants: By Malene Birger
Etnia Barcelona »Africa 01«
120
Clothing left Blouse: By Malene Birger / Mini-Skir t: G -Star Clothing right Sweatshir t: Stine Goya / Skir t: Johann
Paul Frank Âťone way wandererÂŤ
Strada del Sole »No.9016«
122
Clothing left Blouse: Hobbs / Pants: Franziska Michael Clothing right Dress: Pringle of Scotland
ic! berlin ÂťivaÂŤ
LINDBERG »8504«
124
Clothing left Pullover : Pringle of Scotland / Pants: Mini Market Clothing right Blouse: Joseph / Pants: Maison Mar tin Margiela
LINDBERG Âť8582ÂŤ
Clothing left Blazer : Hobbs Clothing right Necklace: COS / Tunic: By Malene Birger / Bootee: Minimarket
Giorgio Armani ÂťAR8018ÂŤ
126
Prada »SPR31P«
Rolf Spectacles »Riviera«
by Jürgen Lenhardt
128
Rolf Spectacles »Marlin«
Ørgreen »Moody«
130
Carlottas Village ÂťHabitÂŤ
Kilsgaard »64.2«
132
Fleye »Amy«
MunicEyeWear »856-5«
134
Adrian Marwitz »Stranger No. 2«
Woodone »Sirona«
136
Woodone »Aidan«
Photos: Jürgen Lenhardt – juergenlenhardt.de Hair & Make-up: Corine Spies – makeuphair.de Styling: Selma Armmari – selmaammari.de Model male: Michael B. – eastwestmodels.de Model female: Sandra M. – eastwestmodels.de Model female: Dana S. – modelpool.de Assistence: Nele Bayer
Metropolitan »8220«
138
BACK TO THE 80S OAKLEY HERITAGE
COLLECTION
RAZoRBLADES
EYESHADE
140
Photos: Raphael Schmitz
FRoGSKINS
RADARLoCK
FLAK JACKET
RACING JACKET
neW tech
M ET ROp OL ITA N Ne W HiNGe Progressive eyewear label OWP cites the legendary Fritz Lang movie Metropolis from the year 1927 as a major source of inspiration. The futuristic cityscapes with their high-rise buildings and endless acres of steel and concrete were the model
for
OWP’s
sleek
Metropolitan
logo in 2010. For their current collection,
the
signature
label
logo
re-interpreted
with
the
five
the bars.
The new glasses feature hinges with nine intertwined metal rods, somewhat reminiscent of the top of a beard
trimmer.
The
surfaces
of
the hinge are ion-plated, a process widely
used
in
jewelry
and
time-
piece design to ensure seamless color coating.
Combined
with
stain-
less steel and polymer elements, the hinges on the six new OTW frames create a look that’s at home in 1927 science fiction flicks as much as today’s city streets.
Photos: Raphael Schmitz
142
METRoPoLITAN »8220«
METRoPoLITAN »8221«
in duS t rY
144
Complaining about the overpowering inf luence of global eyewear corporations is easy. But what folks like Germany-based eyewear rep Ralph Albrecht are doing is hard: Backing up their words with actions. As a sales representative for indie brands including Barton Perreira, Moscot, Leisure Society and KBL, Albrecht is spreading the gospel of independent designer glasses, one pair at a time. For this edition’s Industry Insight, we visited the fast talker in his home right next-door to the Hockenheim Ring Formula One racetrack.
Meet the indie brands in R alph’s line-up: Bar ton Perreira , Moscot . Leisure Society, and KBL .
INDU S TR Y
So what do the Hockenheim Ring and
when I’m home, I enjoy the quiet solitude
Ralph Albrecht have in common?
of my village.
We’re both pretty fast... and not Ralph, how did you end up in eyewear?
necessarily known for being the quiet type.
It’s the only thing I know how to do! (laughs) No, it’s actually my passion! I’m a
This could be why you’ve racked up an impressive 1,002 friends on Facebook.
trained optician and went down this route quite early on.
Do you actually know all these people in When did you get started in the
real life? Wow, I didn’t notice I’m past 1,000! I’d
business?
say that I actually know the majority
I started my training to become a licensed
personally, or at least have met them at
optician in 1985 and went into sales in
some point before. My social media use
1991. My first job was working for Alain
is mostly for business. All the “kids” are
Mikli. I then became head of sales at
growing up with social media these days
Oliver Peoples from 1999 to 2009.
and lots of things will happen there in the
Since Q4 of 2009 I’ve been representing
future. I like to post new glasses, upcoming
Barton Perreira. I’ve always worked for
trends and the like.
independent labels and when Oliver Peoples was sold to Luxottica, I instantly
Maybe your frequent social media
knew that it was time to look for some
activities are due to the fact that you
thing else. Fortunately, I had already met
live in the town of Reilingen, right in the
up in 2007 to secure my future career
heart of Germany but also pretty much
with Bill Barton (CEO of Oliver Peoples
out in the sticks?
until 2006) and the former head of design at
No, that’s not true. I may reside in
Oliver Peoples, Patty Perreira.
Reilingen in the wonderful Rhein-Neckar What’s your current focus in our
region, but I’m not home that much. But
146
industry?
to understand that glasses, especially
Like I said, I represent Barton Perreira,
sunglasses, are a fashion accessory.
Moscot and Leisure Society for Baumvision in Germany, Switzerland and Austria.
You’ve spent many years working in
Throughout the years, I’ve been able
this industry. What does it take for an
to convince a great number of great,
eyewear label to become successful?
awesome customers of our products and
Persistence, passion, great designs, the best
every day I’m excited about their success
sales reps, outstanding quality, service,
as well as my own, and that of Bill and
flexibility, team spirit, lots of new items
Patty. On top of that, I became a partner in
every year and people who live and breathe
my friends’ company KBL Eyewear a few
this eyewear label.
years ago and my wife Silke handles their European distribution.
And what makes an optician successful? A really successful optician is marked by a
What inspires you about your work?
focus on independent labels. There are so
My inspiration kicks in at 6:15 a.m. when I
many great glasses out on the market that
walk my dog and keeps going until 11 p.m. I
are not distributed by the large Italian
spend a lot of time thinking about my job
corporations. A successful optician also
and how to reach my goals. It’s also great
needs a great sales staff; employees who
to have customers ask to get my take on a
show up
sales floor make-over or new collections I
for work in a great mood, with a friendly and
recommend.
honest attitude. Service staff that’s focused on service, and will also offer customers
That sounds really positive. Is there anything that bothers you about the
some coffee or water, or a glass of champagne.
eyewear industry? Nothing at all! But since you asked: A lot of people in this business have yet
What are the big eyewear trends about to pop in 2014?
Spreading the gospel of independent eyewear.
Thin-rimmed acetate frames, matted
attend any tradeshow without?
acetate frames and metal frames.
My iPad, iPhone, and favorite shirt.
And which style would you rather see
Any parting words of advice?
fade away?
Take it easy, because at the end of our lives
Frameless glasses... but they’re bound to
we are all the same. Whether you’re rich or
make a comeback in a few years, inevitably.
poor, all that’s left is a heap of ashes. And they don’t take credit cards in
Who is the most influential eyewear designer of all time?
heaven or in hell, so enjoy life to the fullest and keep your spirits up!
Alain Mikli! What are the three things you won’t 148
MARK CAVENDISH_CROSSLINK A CT I V E P R E S C R I P T I O N C O L L E CT I O N ®
DISRUPTIVE BY DESIGN P E R F O RM A N C E F RA M E S R E V O L U T IO N IZ E T H E E V E RY D A Y
©2014 Oakley Icon | OAKLEY.COM
G-Star Raw »Sniper«
150
w h at yo u see ~ is w h at yo u get by Mar tin Bauendahl
Escada »VES334«
Whiteout & Glare »Hamptons 7063 Springs«
Martin & Martin »Ingo«
152
Whiteout & Glare »Hamptons 7062 Mecox«
Kaviar Gauche x Brendel »903031«
154
Kaviar Gauche x Brendel »903032«
Blac »37BK«
156
Blac »35GR«
KBL »Northern Lights«
158
KBL »The Hamptons«
Ørgreen »Leon«
160 Photos: Martin Bauendahl | Photo Assistants: Maren Schabhüser & Peggy Stahnke Make-up: Chiho Schwarzer | Make-Up Assistant: Dennis Brandt Postproduction: Matthias Gabriel Models: Maria Dashkevich @ Louisa Models, Nicole Harrison @ Louisa Models, Felix Nagel @ Mega Models Thanks to Studio Briese Hamburg
THEA
IAPEToS
HYPERIoN
THEMIS
162
RHEA Photo: Raphael Schmitz
KRoNoS
oKEANoS
TETHYS
According to Greek mythology, titans are gigantic beings, God-like in their prowess but with a strong resemblance to humans. For their latest collection, eyewear label Whiteout & Glare took inspiration from the famous giants of lore by choosing eight titans as namesakes for their new models: Thea, Okeanos, Themis, kronos, Hyperion, Rhea, Tethys and Iapetos. These frames are understated and elegant in their design, replete with full titanium flex hinges and pure light acetate temples. The lenses fit easily thanks to an acute slot crafted into the rim itself. Since the beginning in 2005, Whiteout & Glare has been building a reputation for designing puristic, uncomplicated titanium frames that will stand the test of time regardless of changing fashion trends. The Titans collection is another major step in this direction. Get ready to witness the battle of the Titans!
coLLection checK
bEllINGER aCe tate 2014 – MIDO COllEC TION based in denmark, design collective bellinger House is home to four eyewear labels, each with its own signature style and attitude: bellinger, bLaC, Kamaeleon and entourage of 7. as a common denominator, all four brands are representative of danish design at its best. eyeWear Magazine sat down with founder and creative director Claus bellinger diederichsen to get the story behind bellinger House and glasses such as the “rockit”, “Halo”, and “amanda”. please sum up the collection in just one
numbers. Later, we started naming them
sentence.
after what inspired us; animals, historic
Unique, fantastic color combinations with
persons, Danish design classics, architectural
the world-renowned Bellinger signature
buildings,
touch: Exciting acetate mixing and temple
always had a thing with the corny 80’s TV
grooves and cuttings.
series Dallas and Dynasty so this year’s
geographic
locations.
i’ve
Mido collection takes inspiration in the What inspired your very own glasses
characters on the two shows. The names,
collection?
that is. There’s nothing 80’s about the
Previously, we just gave our collections
designs.
164
FAllON: »A truly unique Bellinger acetate color combination. You can only love this one.«
CRYSTAl: »Perfect color blend between dark and light tones and the exciting, sculptural temple grooves.« HAlO: »Halo comes in a wealth of varieties. This one, incorporating red to the classic Havana color, adds even more excitement to the frame.«
AMANDA: »Fashionista shape with a girlie look. Embedded pinstripes give a holographic effect for added finesse.«
CO L L ECTION CHEC K
How many models are part of your new
posh color. This offers a neat look that blends
collection? And are there separate gender
classicism with playful colorama.
models or mostly unisex pieces? In the Bellinger collection we introduced six
What is your personal favorite?
models at Opti and 18 at Mido. All tweaked
All of them! Well, if I absolutely must pick
into new, defining trends. Both gender
one, I’d say Crystal C.762. We expect a lot
specific models as well as unisex.
from the horizontal split front I just told you about. The combination of the dark tones on
Which materials did you play with during
the upper part fading into the light tones on
this collection?
the lower part is a look that’s really appealing
Acetate! We’re absolutely passionate about
to a lot of people.
acetate which allows us to truly express our love for colors. Our own unique acetate
And why?
mixes up to five different acetates layered
While our unique color combinations can
in each frame, which is what makes the
be described as the Bellinger DNA, our
Bellinger acetate frames absolutely unique.
Bellinger signature is the characteristic bevel and emboss shaping of the temples that has
And what are the most important color
earned us a place in many peoples’ heart.
themes in this collection?
The Crystal C.762 frame represents just that.
The overall theme of all Bellinger collections
Perfect color blend between dark and light
is colors and sculptural temples. You’ll never
tones and the exciting, sculptural temple
see a Bellinger frame with plain, straight
grooves.
temples. The new collection spans subtle, toned down, dark/conservative colors to
Which celebrity would you like to see wearing
the truly wild, extreme color combinations.
your favorite one?
Some of the styles have a characteristic
Bellinger is a tribute to powerful women
horizontal split front with the upper part
with a kick-ass drive, so Google’s vice
in a dark tone and the lower part in a fresh,
president of consumer products, Marissa
166
ROCkIT: »Classic tortoise style. This one mixes light and dark tortoise nuances for added edge.«
STRIkE: »Square shapes with softened corners give a stylish look. 3D fishbone temple cuts add a sporty look.«
SuNTOp: »Bellinger signature acetate: Horizontal split with classy upper calmness and lower playfulness.«
STING: »Male/unisex. As minimalistic as it gets under the Bellinger moniker. Still the playfulness shines through.«
coLLection checK
Mayer, would be a really cool person to
introducing the BLAC frames back in 2008.
associate the Bellinger brand with.
i was really hooked on Bell & Ross’ rough designs incorporating big screws as a crucial
What kind of people do you picture as
and very visual part of their designs. i also
wearers of „Halo“ and „Star“?
have a dream one day to design a car. ideally,
Brave, style-savvy women who aren’t afraid
a full carbon fiber body resembling the look
to express their inner colorfulness.
and feel of our BLAC frames and wild orange
Do you take inspiration from visiting optical tradeshows? If so, which are the main ones?
interior taking inspiration in our fiberglass colors.
Not at all! We’re only there to meet with
What separates bellinger from other
new and existing clients, partners and our
eyewear manufactures?
sales team.
Bellinger House is a design house offering four distinctively different eyewear brands
What inspires you in daily life – even outside
with their own unique DNA: Bellinger,
the optical industry?
BLAC, Kamaeleon and Entourage of 7. All
Family, nature, architecture, furniture,
four brands demonstrate Danish design at its
automotives, watches. Sunday mornings
best – from stylish contemporaries and color
walking the dog gets me in a relaxed
craziness to übercool high-end minimalism.
mindset and often inspiration flows in such
This gives us a wider reach in the eyewear
situations. inspiration never comes to me
industry as we’re not only amongst the
when forced.
leading brands within a single market, but cover several markets and styles.
Aside from eyewear, what else would you like What kind of styles will be making a splash
to design? As
mentioned
before;
architecture,
this year?
watches.
if you asked me 10 years ago, i would easily
Actually, i initially planned to do a
have been able to pinpoint the top 10 sellers
carbon fiber wrist watch series along with
which would be almost identical across all
furniture,
automotives,
and
168
Halo: »Express your inner colorfulness. Bellinger customize their own unique acetate color combinations that offer a neat and refreshed take on the classic retro shape.«
Star: »The horizontal split is Bellinger’s characteristic trademark. Front with upper part in a dark tone and lower part
markets. However, after we introduced the BLAC line in 2008 and incorporated Los Angeles based Entourage of 7 in 2012, things have become way more differentiated. However, as for the Bellinger collection specifically, our new crazy color acetates are definitely gonna be among our top sellers. And, if I may add, I expect our BLAC+ sunnies to go big this season with their extremely cool blinkers style wings truly demonstrating today’s amazing state of the art 3D printing.
in a posh green/yellow contrast.«
Lef t: Dress: Badgley Mischka / Earrings & Hairband: Stylist’s own Right: Jacket: Hati-Hati
Reiz »Sturm«
170
170
by Christine Lipski
oakley »enduro«
Latex Knit Pullover : Lüllepop Design / StingBra: Stylist’s own / Pants: Hati-Hati
G-Star »fat Wilton«
172
Skir t & Shir t: Hati-Hati / Necklace: Lüllepop Design / Ear Cuff : Stylist’s own
götti »kojak«
Dress & Jacket: Chanel / Necklace , Bracelets & Knuckle Rings: Chanel / Belt: Stylist`s own
etnia Barcelona Âťafrica 01ÂŤ
174
Lef t: Blouse: Hati-Hati / Belt: Stylist’s own Mid: Dress: Glaw Berlin / Bow Tie: Stylist’s own Right: Leather Jacket & Skir t: Escada / Shoulder Piece: Stylist’s own
Glasses from left to right: Barton Perreira »Rainey« Rebecca Minkoff »türkis« Barton Perreira »Shirelle«
J.f.Rey »nautilus«
176
Lef t: Dress: R alph Lauren / Scar f & Ring : Stylist’s own Right: Knit-Cardigan: R alph Lauren / Earrings: Stylist’s own
invu »t2401 B«
Vest & Latex Gloves: Lüllepop Design / Skir t: Glaw
l.G.R »Reunion«
178
Dress & Necklace: Escada / Biker Gloves: Röckl / Belt: Stylist’s own
Cazal »leo«
180 MODELS: Fiona R. @ Model Management, Marlen N. @Modelwerk, Nadja @ Muga Modelmanagement
PHOTOS: Christine Lipski – christinelipski.com STYLiNG : Janina Cüpper – 21 Agency Düsseldorf HAiR & MAKE-UP: Yasmin Farman & Stephanie Zernikow ASSiSTANT: Radaslaw Polgesek & Laura Müller POSTPRODUCTiON: Anne Zimny – annezimny.daportfolio.com
Dress , Necklace & Wristband: Chanel Earrings: Stylist’s own
Saschee Schuster »Gertrude«
SKY EYES: SKSUGIToN
MoSCoT: GoVERNoR
PAUL FRANK: CRYSTAL CoRRIDoRS
BLacK eyeD pieces
Cazal: 8014
Leisure Society: Rodrigues
G-star Raw: Fat Dexter
While working on this issue, everyone on the team was ready for the dreary winter to be over by the time this magazine releases. Otherwise, most of the content in this issue would practically be rendered irrelevant. Especially the six shades hand-picked for this edition’s Material World, provided by Cazal, G-Star, Leisure Society, Moscot, Paul Frank and Sky Eyes. There’s a common pattern emerging here; dark frames with small, carefully chosen details and flashes that will set the tone this summer. Looks like it’s working: Just in time for wrapping up this issue, it seems like summer has finally arrived. Let’s hope it’s here to stay!
r e tA i L P r o f i L e
Da R MS ta Dt / one loV e Optician and store owner Akram Husseini is a well-known staple of the German eyewear scene. With a reputation for distinctive tastes and an uncompromising eye for craftsmanship, Husseini likes to showcase at his store a tight selection of brands that can live up to his high standards. And when it for his customers, the optician based in the town of Darmstadt, Germany, goes the extra mile to ensure the per fect match between eyewear and personality. EYEWEAR Magazine dropped by to see Husseini’s personal approach in action. 184
Photos: Stefan Dongus
comes to finding the right pair of frames
r e tA i L P r o f i L e
hello Akram! Spending time with you
optician, there weren’t that many options
outside your store is like that movie
to leave town, so my wanderlust gradually
“The Truman Show”. It seems everyone
subsided. And many of my friends had
around here knows you and stops by to
already moved to Berlin, Hamburg and
say hello. how come?
so on, so it was easy to get away for
(Laughs) Yes, our street is kind of like
a weekend whenever i got stir-crazy.
that. Everyone knows and appreciates one
At one point, i did end up leaving for a
another. i love Darmstadt and have been
year to get my master’s certificate from
living here since i was born. This is where
the Zentralverband der Augenoptiker
i went to school and grew up. i was always
(German central association of opticians)
out and about, rather than sitting behind
in Dormagen near Cologne. That was a
a desk. Everything in my life revolves
cool period, especially getting out of the
around this town. My family, my friends
hamster wheel for an entire year after all
– they’re all here. And so is my store. One
this time in the store. i came back refreshed,
Love!
with lots of new industry contacts and tons of know-how.
One Love for Darmstadt? Were you never tempted to move anywhere else?
how in the world does a guy like you end
Yes, quite heavily tempted, actually.
up as an optician?
Once i finished school barely scraping by,
That’s easy: i’ve been wearing glasses
all i wanted to do was leave Darmstadt.
ever since i was seven years old. And
But then came my alternative civilian
since i’ve always been into sports and was
service [instead of being drafted to the
always kind of a wild one, my spectacles
German army] and i moved in with
were practically broken all the time.
some
mellowed
in my prime, i would end up at the
out the situation somewhat. When i
optician’s store twice a week with a
started training to become a licensed
wrecked pair. My parents also both wear
roommates.
That
186
Some glasses are on display, while the majority is part of the store’s “hidden” inventory.
glasses and have always been frequenting
was super cool and at one point, they let
the best optician in town. So at an early
me into the work-shop so i could watch
age, i became privy to eyewear by brands
the opticians put my wrecked glasses back
such as Optical Affairs, Alain Mikli, Theo,
together. That was kind of fascinating.
L.A. Eyeworks etc. Right from the start,
When it was time to do my mandatory job
my parents instilled a sense in me that a
internship in school, i went and interned at
pair of glasses is much, much more than
the store. Once i was finished, the owner
just visual aid. The team at the old store
asked me if i would consider training as
r e tA i L P r o f i L e
an optician one day. But since i wanted to
for eyewear to others. By now we also
stay in school [until 13th grade] to get my
have some customers who keep up to date
Abitur (general qualification for university
on what’s happening in the industry
entrance), i passed on the opportunity.
and some even know about releases
But we kept in touch and after finishing
sometimes, that i’ve barely even heard
school and civil service, i applied for an
of. But those are exceptional customers.
apprenticeship. And they hired me right
Most people need solid assistance and a
away.
trained eye to help them make the right eyewear purchase. it’s also key not to
What’s the most appealing part of your
overwhelm the customers, but keeping
job?
your entire selection in mind and
Of course it’s always great to know that
knowing about the features of each pair
your customers are able to see better than
of frames. What is the nose bridge shaped
before, thanks to their glasses. But i’ve
like? Are the temples tight-fitting? That’s
always thought that was fundamental,
how you can narrow it down to a manage-
otherwise we wouldn’t have to be doing
able selection to help customers make the
our job. That’s why we became opticians.
right choice, and make it quickly.
Nowadays it’s more important to me to offer customers comprehensive guidance
Are there some necessary evils of the
and service. it’s the best feeling to meet a
job?
customer at the grocery store a year later,
Without a doubt, working on saturdays! it’s
thinking to yourself what an epic piece of
still annoying to me, even after 15 years.
eyewear we chose together. When it just looks stunning!
What are some important aspects of
What i’m trying to say is: i’m involved
your craft?
with eyewear all day long, and the best part
To me it’s important that customers get the
about it is being able to pass on this passion
sense that they’re entering an authentic
188
store, where we offer a different kind of service and selection of glasses than many other shops. And that we can take our time to help them get what they need. What’s the distinctive feature of your store? We’re running a “closed inventory system”, meaning that only 5% of our eyewear stock are displayed openly. So your focus is on personal service? Yes, personal counseling is our core philosophy. Thanks to the relatively limited number of items on display, there is hardly any self-service. But of course everyone is free to try on anything they like. Glasses are made for wearing, we’re not a porcelain store. Still, I’m convinced that customers can trust our opinion and what we pick out for them. We know our glasses and their special features. That helps avoid disappointments when customers try things on and together we can find the right pair much quicker. Although once you let the customer try on more than ten pairs of glasses, he just
our photo models usually don’t get to flash smiles, but we’ll make an exception for Akram.
»AT THIS POINT, WE DON’T HAVE A SINGLE LICENSED PRODUCT IN OUR STORE ANYMORE. EVERY EYEWEAR LABEL HAS ITS OWN LITTLE STORY, WHICH WE LIKE TO PASS ON TO OUR CUSTOMERS.« 190
ends up utterly clueless. So you have to
what’s the distinct appeal of your store?
narrow it down to three to eight pairs.
We’re dedicated to offering the full scope
With a focused selection, customers are
of traditional optician services, from
free to listen to their heart.
glasses all the way to fitted contact lenses.
What’s your main focus with Klar Augenoptik? At this point, we don’t have a single licensed product in our store anymore. Every eyewear label has its own little story, which we like to pass on to our customers. We cultivate friendships with most of our brands and that’s what we like to communicate. Our
But maybe dressed up in a more youthful package, not so much the antiquated image of the optician’s trade from years ago. I consider my store to be at the crossroads between a fashion boutique and an optical store. Everyone is free to be who they are here, no need for false pretense. That’s how we do it. Clear glasses, clear service and clear interior design – no gimmicks.
customers can be assured that once we
What types of customers frequent your
decide on offering a certain collection,
store?
they can trust that we stand behind our
We get all kinds of customers these days,
products. And keeping things 100%
which keeps things interesting. We have
professional at the eyewear store is also
students, lawyers, blue collar workers,
a major focus for me. This is where my
bankers, academics and pensioners. What
traditional training in one of the best
they all have in common is that they are
stores around comes into play. There’s
looking for a pair of quality glasses that
nothing worse than running a small store
nobody else is wearing. They come and find
like ours with no sense of organization
us in our location a bit outside the heart of
and professionalism.
downtown to get their new glasses. We’re getting lots of attention. And it’s because
Next to keeping it neat and quality,
we offer no mainstream glasses!
RET A I L P ROFI L E
How are you finding new customers and
entire store design. I draw the line at small
retaining them?
plexiglass blocks. And along the glasses
Since we opened the store, we’ve been
displays, we’re presenting small picture
running a series of print ads in magazines
frames from the flea market, in which
here in Darmstadt. And we’re quite heavily
I’ve put down some personal thoughts
involved with our Facebook page, as well
about each brand in my best handwriting.
as sponsoring parties and hosting our
That’s it.
own store parties two to three times per year. This year, we want to create our
What are some of your brands and the
first lookbook and collaborate with some
reason for carrying them?
eyewear labels here and there.
Okay, here’s a small excerpt: Garret Leight – perfectly represents the
So your outside presentation is rather
current retro trend.
intense and visual, but the actual store
Masunaga – Japanese perfection.
display is rather understated. How
Reiz – puristic, but with lots of passion for
come?
eyewear.
Displaying labels and logos in our store is
Mykita Mylon – for the tech crowd.
not my thing, even if I had the space to do
L.G.R. – Italian loftiness, feels like being
it. Glasses can shine with their design and
on a sailboat.
form language much better if there aren’t
Thierry Lasry – “Bling bling” with the
names and logos plastered everywhere.
most exciting acetate colorways on the
I don’t want to run my store like the Las
market.
Vegas Strip. Plus, our customers don’t care
Lunettes Kollektion – feels like summertime
about labels. Branded displays really only
in Berlin.
make sense if you’re trying to promote
Retrosuperfuture – their name is their
certain fashion brands, which we are not.
concept. And many, many more…
And I also think these things can ruin the
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RET A I L P ROFI L E
Which style is trending right now? And
Are you willing to share your three
what will be next?
favorite brands with us?
Definitely retro, for sure! But meanwhile,
When it comes to sneakers: Nike, Asics
all the frames are getting much thinner
and New Balance.
and elegant silhouettes than in previous years. The colors have also become lighter
Haha, maybe we can set you up with
and sometimes matted. More people are
our partner publication, SNEAKERS
asking about metal frames. I think that
Magazine. Thanks for the interview.
in the long run, we’ll be seeing a healthy mix and plastics won’t be as dominant anymore. Avant-garde optical products are in higher demand, but not at our store. That’s just not me.
It’s all about keeping it subtle: Instead of littering the store with POS materials, brand presentation is limited to small Plexiglas displays and hand-written intros.
194
facebook.com/adrianmarwitzeyewear adrianmarwitz.com
Photo: Raphael Schmitz
7 GrAMS
MARKUS T SUN / M2.644
7 grams of chocolate are good for your heart. crafting eyewear frames with intelligent A heaping table spoon contains about 7 technologies since 1999. Pieces like the grams of coffee and a frozen pizza pie usually model M100822 are crafted from titanium has 7 grams of salt. The list goes on and on... with delicate wire temples. in lieu of bolts Another noteworthy mention would be and screws, the frame relies on an intelligent upscale designer glasses that weigh a mere clamping solution in the mid-section, paired 7 grams. The man behind this breakthrough with Markus T’s proprietary hinges. 7 grams is Markus Temming. The designer has been of utmost precision and coherence. 196
w w w. m a k e l l o s - p o t s d a m . d e
Gesicht: Henrike Brille: Sophie Charlotte Limitierte Sonderserie – Handgefertigt in Deutschland
LEF T Jacket: Kookai Paris Pants: ihear t RIGHT Shir t: H&M
Barton Perreira »Truman«
Strenesse »STS26«
198
–ThE NEW–
BY ANDRE A S ANDÉ
Kilsgaard »mod. 63.8«
200
Shir t: P&C
Blac »48«
LEF T Shir t: Reversa Gouni RIGHT Shir t: Vintage makellos »ME5011«
202
Ralph Lauren »RL8112«
Coblens »Stauende«
204
LEF T
Shirt: iheart | Pants: Cheap Monday RIGHT Dress: Glamorous P&C
Fleye »Molli«
LEF T Body: American Apparel RIGHT Pullover : Vintage
Reiz »Eiche«
206
Photos: Andras Andé – www.ap-photography.net | Styling & Set : Rolf Buck | Hair & Make-Up : Kerry J. Hajdu Models : Marcus @Indeed Models, Luis @Indeed Models, Bianca @ Spin Models, Anna Louisa @No Toys, Kirsten und Alex @Aquamarine
götti »August«
208
Maybach »The Patron I«
Maybach »The Majesty III«
Swimwear : La Perla | Necklaces: Asos Swimwear : Calvin Klein | Necklace & Bracelet: Strawberr y & Cream
Left Swimwear : Versace Beachwear | Bracelet: Asos Right Swimwear : Versace Beachwear | Rings: Asos
Serengeti »Brera«
Serengeti »Verdi«
210
Swimwear : Versace Beachwear | Necklace: Strawberr y & Cream
Serengeti »Verdi«
Swimwear : Lisa Marie Fernandez
MercedesBenz Style »MBS 5025«
212
Swimwear : Shimmi | Rings: Pippa & Jean
MercedesBenz Style »MBS 1038«
Swimwear : Orlebar Brown | Necklace: Vintage
Esprit »ET17824«
214
Swimwear : American Apparel | Bracelet: Vintage
Esprit »ET17819«
coblens »Pinkelpause«
216
Swimwear : Versace Beachwear | Ring : Vintage
Swimwear : La Perla | Bracelet: Emilio Pucci
Miu Miu »Smu52P«
Strenesse »STS17«
218
Photographer: Reno Mezger (www.reno-mezger.de) | Styling: Séraphine de Lima (Bigoudi) | Hair: Anja Fichtenmayer (Bigoudi) Make-Up: Rebecca J. Herrmann (Liganord) Photo Assistant: Jura Germanyuk | Models: Larissa (Spin Model Management), Kristin (Modelwerk) | Location: Sonnenstudio 75 in Hamburg/Rahlstedt www.sonnenstudio75.de
Swimwear : Lisa Marie Fernandez | Ring : Asos | Bracelet: Vintage
„Mercedes-Benz“ is subject to intellectual property protection owned by Daimler AG. It is used by Rodenstock under license.
K aviar Gauche X Brendel 906043
Photo: Ralph Schmitz
K aviar Gauche X Brendel 906041
K aviar Gauche X Brendel 90604 2
RET A I L P ROFI L E
K av i a r G au c h e X Brendel Award-winning designers Kaviar Gauche from
and impresive. Now the two designers behind
Berlin have built a reputation for their trademark
Kaviar Gauche are applying their concept to
style: Combining fragile materials with tough
eyewear in a collabo with of-the-moment label
details. Their dresses are highly coveted designer
Brendel. The glasses are crafted from high-quality
items, especially the wedding gowns; lofty
polymers in tender Kaviar Gauche colorways
satin dresses adorned with rough metal belts,
such as light rosewood and olive, combined with
laser-cut patterns and bold metal chains. The
metal accents like copper, gold and rosĂŠ gold.
resulting look is a blend of opposites, equally
Our Collab of the Issue, sweet as wedding cake.
frail and feminine and at the same time strong
We want more!
221
Photo: Raphael Schmitz
finiShinG
r AY- B A n urBan camouflagE Over the past few years, camouflage patterns have been on the sidelines of popular sunglasses colorways. But no more hiding in the bushes – the time for camo is finally here! Ray Ban is leading the charge with a collection of classic Wayfarer frames in five(!) different camouflage patterns. For an extra level of metropolitan cool, the temples on the Urban Camouflage collection have been coated with fabric. Ray Ban says “Never hide”, but if you want to lay low for a bit, these Wayfarers have you covered. R a y - b a n R b 2 14 0
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C h a r m a n t G m b h E u r o p E C h a r m a n t. d E , t E l E f o n : 0 8 1 3 1 - 3 8 2 8 0 | E t 1 7 8 1 9 - 5 6 5
EDITOR S CHOICE
Photo: Raphael Schmitz
Etnia Barcelona »Africa 02«
This summer, all eyes are on Africa: Cape Town won the bid to become the World Design Capital 2014, while jungle colors and animal prints are emerging as style favorites among style-
Etnia Barcelona
savvy urbanites around the world. Eyewear brand Etnia Barcelona is dedicating an entire collection to the continent, donating two percent of all proceeds to charitable organization Africa Rising. Hear the roar of this issue’s Editor’s Choice, the “Africa 02”
W i l d lov e i n A f r i ca
model. Rrrrrhhhhhaaaahh!
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Be yonD the sea
FLEYE »LUAN«
bY ORION DAHlMANN 226
WHITEoUT & GLARE »7027 THYRISToR«
ENToURAGE oF 7 »MoRGAN«
228
MAKELLoS »ME 5005«
METRoPoLITAN »8220«
230
I-SPAX »BRUTUS 58«
REIZ »EMS«
232
eye
society EYEWEAR
tinpal handmade germany
Brillenfassungen
Photo: Stefan Dongus Models: Dana Söhngen & Max Lindenlaub
IC! BERLIN »GÜNTHER N.«
SEE WhAT’ S NE X T, NEVER MISS AN ISSUE
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