Eyewear issue 11

T H E

V I SI O N A RY

M AGA Z IN E

11

MARIJA ILJAZOVIC Men @ Work @ Rolf Spectacles

GOOD GUYS & GOOD GLASSES Photo Shoot

BELLINGER ACETATE Collection Check

KLAR / DARMSTADT Retail Profile

EIN LEBEN IM VINTAGE Collectors Check

FEATURES

ETNIA BARCELONA, KAVIAR GAUCHE, LEISURE SOCIETY, MARKUS T, METROPOLITAN, OAKLEY, RAY-BAN, RIGARDS, WHITEOUT & GLARE

Eyewear Road Trip

South African Bohème

E

ENGLISH ISSUE

ACCESSORIES - EYEWEAR - LEATHER GOODS - SADDLERY MAYBACH Icons of Luxury GmbH | Germany | info@maybach-luxury.com | www.maybach-luxury.com „Maybach“ and the „MM“ logo are subject to intellectual property protection owned by Daimler AG. They are used by MAYBACH Icons of Luxury GmbH under licence.

IVKO GmbH | Germany | natural-eyewear@ivko.de | www.natural-eyewear.com

design by lindberg 路 made by lindberg

By Appointment to The Royal Danish Court

NIKOLAJ HĂœBBE / Artistic Director of the Royal Danish Ballet HILARY GUSWILER / Member of the Corps de Ballet, Royal Danish Ballet

orgreenoptics.com

Mas t h e a d

Editor in chief Stefan Dongus dongus@eyewear-magazine.com m: +49.(0)151.14271817 Editor Jana Wenge wenge@eyewear-magazine.com Graphic DESIGN Till Paukstat paukstat@eyewear-magazine.com Sebastian Wegerhoff Frédéric Wiegand Contributors Dirk Vogel Photographers Andreas Andé Martin Bauendahl Orion Dahlmann Stefan Dongus Mert Dürümoglu Ulrich Hartmann Stefan Kapfer Jürgen Lenhardt Christine Lipski Madame Peripetie Reno Mezger Manuel Mittelpunkt Stefanie Neumann Raphael Schmitz Tobias Schult Translation English Version Dirk Vogel Proofreading Franca Rainer

Online Editor Jana Wenge presse@eyewear-magazine.com Publisher Monday Publishing GmbH Kamekestr. 20– 22 50672 Cologne GERMANY t: +49.(0)221.945267-11 f: +49.(0)221.945267-27 CEOs Stefan Dongus Holger von Krosigk Distribution DPV Network GmbH Postfach 570 412 22773 Hamburg GERMANY www.dpv-network.de Print F&W Mediencenter GmbH Holzhauser Feld 2 83361 Kienberg GERMANY www.fw-medien.de COVER Photo: Ulrich Hartmann Styling: Jochen Pohlmann Hair- & Make-Up: Lars Rüffert Models: Geli F @ 20Management Glasses: Lindberg »8504«

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EYEWEAR is published three times per year.

This magazine and all its contents may not be re-used, distributed or stored in electronic databases in any way without prior written permission from the publishers.

All inquiries regarding the usage of copyrighted materials, as well as the reproduction of excerpts in other formats must be directed to the publishers. The opinions reflected in this magazine do not necessarily reflect those of the publishers. All rights reserved.

Mas t h e a d

Insight Employees of the Issue The 11th issue of EYEWEAR Magazine shines a light on the newest and latest in the exciting world of eyewear. Behind the scenes, we’re fortunate to be working with some of the most gifted and creative minds in their respective fields. In this issue’s Insight section, we’d like to showcase some of the folks that made it all possible: Image maker Madame Peripetie, photographer Tobias Schult and graphic designer Sebastian Wegerhoff.

Sebastian Wegerhoff, Graphic Designer For over a year now, Sebastian Wegerhoff has been working on the graphic design of our magazine and our partner publication, SNEAKERS magazine. A trained carpenter by trade, Sebastian pur­­sued his passion for graphic design at an early age. Before attending classes for communications design, he would decorate public spaces with typefaces and images, entirely free of charge to the building proprietors. After earning his degree, Sebastian spent some time in Munich, Bavaria, but soon returned to Cologne to become a fixture at our offices. A little known fact about Sebastian: He has spent six months of his life living in a mobile home and is the proud owner of a pedal boat, the Unsinkable 2.

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Madame Peripetie, Imagist As a direct descendent of surrealists including Salvador Dali, Madame Peripetie is an award-winning image maker and linguist based in London. The artist uses elaborate styling accessories and her camera to create surprising, powerful images. Last year, we were fortunate to feature two of her works in our The Reason Why column. The main focus of her work lies within the creation of character design infused with surreal and abstract elements, the contemporary hybridized body, its sublime beauty and its study in connection to fashion and design. The Tobias Schult, Photographer objective is always to create an interaction For Berlin-based people, fashion and adbetween the body as a sculp­ture, language vertising photographer Tobias Schult and conceptual experimentation, united in work and play go hand-in-hand. His an explosion of textures, colors and shapes. studio and workspace is a frequent Madame Peripetie’s clients include Canon, hangout for celebrities including German Topshop, Cutler&Gross, Kris van Assche and actors Jürgen Vogel and Armin Rohde, many more. In this issue, Madame Peripetie which may be due to the comfy atmoscreated the “Wired” photo series. phere of the oversized man cave Schult is cultivating in the German capital. The place feels like home, with its fridge always fully stacked with Club Mate sodas, which his dog Mats will fetch and deliver to the football table, where most of his photo shoots “kick off ”, in the true sense of the word. Next to his commercial work, Schult is known for editorial photography and a focus on expressive portraits and lifestyle shots. A self-proclaimed renaissance man, Tobias enjoys traditional cameras, cars and motorbikes, as well as the finer things in life. He also makes a point of contributing images to almost every issue of EYEWEAR Magazine.

Photo: Ulrich Hartmann Styling: Jochen Pohlmann

EDITORI A L

Variety is the Spice of Life Lef t : Etnia Barcelona »Africa 01« Right : Paul Frank »one way wanderer«

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New York City A rainy day. Writing these lines, I’m

social media efforts put us in touch with

posted up at a cafe right at the intersection

eyewear aficionados around the world.

between posh SoHo, proud Little Italy

Variety is the spice of life – also a great

and colorful China Town. Watching the

mantra for eyewear manufacturers and

spectacle inside and outside the store, it’s

opticians. Ultimately, eyewear is far more

hard to imagine a more vibrant and diverse

than a vision aid, but also a lifestyle and

scene. Everything blends together in the

fashion product. Nowadays, opticians

Big Apple. Old and new, youngsters and

are keeping up with this trend by turning

seniors, past and future. And suddenly,

their shops into boutiques with lounge-

I’m reminded of an experience I had right

like ambiances, setting themselves apart

here, in New York City, about 25 years

from all the nuts-and-bolts opticians still

ago. Walking down the street, a gentleman

focused merely on the technical aspects of

approached me out of nowhere to let me

the craft. Manufacturers are taking great

know: “Variety is the spice of life.” I still

strides to polish their image, creating

have not the faintest idea why he would

moody and stylish image campaigns for

have done such a thing, but the memory

their new lines that rival – and surpass

of this random encounter has stayed

– those of established fashion brands in

with me ever since. Maybe it was a

their upscale aesthetics.

message of some sorts. Or just the seed for

As we speak, avant-garde eyewear

this editorial, written a quarter century

design has become part of the life­style

later.

segment. Is that a positive thing? You bet!

Variety is a great way to sum up this

Even more so, it’s a catalyst for the entire

issue. We’re showcasing eyewear from

eyewear industry. When glasses become

all parts of the globe. Our photographers

fashion items and personal mission

captured current lifestyles in places such

statements for modern-day wearers, they

as Berlin, London and Cape Town. Beyond

are far more than a temporary solution,

the printed pages of our magazine, our

discarded at the next opthamologist

EDITORI A L

Variety is the Spice of Life check-up. They become a matter of personal

variety, how about all the different

style. And currently, personal styles are

finishes being perfected these days?

Looking at shapes and forms, proven

trending towards modern designs, as well as keeping a second or third pair of glasses

staples like the aviator or cat eye are

on hand to match a variety of outfits.

joined by new and innovative styles that deserve attention. The same goes for

Variety is also the current catchword when it comes to materials used in

colorways. And as far as eyewear labels

eyewear design. It’s no longer about just

go, there has never been more variety in

one particular trend anymore – there’s

terms of labels and manufacturers, than

too much happening all at the same time.

today. In one word, the selection nowadays

Acetate remains a proven classic in the

is gigantic. And with so many choices, it’s

industry. Wood continues to be a

up to the consumers to discover their

factor. And for those looking to hardly be

very own perfect pair of eyewear – and

able to notice their glasses at all, beta

for opticians to nudge them in the right

titanium frames are the way to go. Did

direction. Maybe our magazine can help

we mention horn frames? Definitely

to provide some much-needed guidance

up and coming! Some brands are crafting

on what’s out there, and to encourage

frames from massive blocks of aluminum,

consumers to embrace diversity. Variety

while others are perfecting their own

is the spice of life. Taste it.

proprietary blends of innovative materials. And as if that’s not enough 24

SD

neWS

adrIEn sauvagE X eYe reSPecT Unique! That’s a good way to summarize the collaboration between British designer Adrien Sauvage and eyewear label Eye Respect. The joint project is a match made in heaven. The six frames of the new collection are emblematic of classic 1950s eyewear design: Classic and ever so wearable and comfortable.

KuBoraum Kuboraum is an eyewear label with high artistic aspirations. All designs not only serve a certain function, but embody deeper philosophical concepts. Dressing up in disguises and playing charades, for instance. The resulting glasses crafted from pure buffalo horn not only disguise the face of the wearer, but at the same time have an enhancing effect on individual features. it’s like hiding and standing out, all at the same time.

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haptEr MiliTArY GoGGle On the heels of winning the iF Product Design Award 2013 and the German Design Award 2014, of-the-moment eyewear label Hapter is setting out into unknown territory. Company founders Eric Balzan and Mirko Forti have been working on a goggle crafted from steel (!), coated with merino wool. it’s a bold look, equally stark and unconventional, bound to hit runways in Milan and Paris this coming season.

myKIta Meet Jarvis and Giles, the new eyewear styles in Mykita’s collection.

Both speak a clear form language: Double bridge, matted and pretty hip.

neWS

r.t.co Upcoming label R.T.CO originally started as an offshoot of skateboard brand Rollo, which has been keeping the DiY-spirit in the skateboard industry alive since 2006.

Doing it yourself is also what Berlinbased designer Tobias Bergmann has been all about with R.T.CO since 2011.

fEndI

Asked about his priorities, Bergmann

italian fashion label Fendi enjoys

said that design is overrated. it’s all

a reputation for furs and luxury

about the where and how of eyewear

leather products. But they also

manufacturing. Which is why Bergmann

know how to turn up the flair

has his frames manufactured at small

meter with flashy eyewear designs,

workshops in italy. R.T.CO might be up

brightening up the day with flashes

to something: The resulting frames are

of color. We especially like the small

really wearable – and really cool.

rivets with pequin stripe engraving.

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www.jfrey.fr

ANIMALS

neWS

ODEEh X lUneTTeS collecTion This marks the very first collabo between ODEEH and eyewear label Lunettes. With their effortless chic and laid-back style, both labels have created their own interpretation of quintessential Paris chic. Je t'aime!

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Blac - Original & Authentic ... www.blac.dk

neWS

marc JacoBs Having earned a reputation as one of the most important fashion designers in Paris since the late 1990s, Marc Jacobs is always involved in something new. And the audience is always watching closely.

After becoming creative director at Louis Vuitton in 1997, he revolutionized the brand’s image into one of the world’s most coveted designer labels. The new

dIor

“MJ 532/S” from his own label’s current

Leather eyewear frames have been used

summer collection once again proves his

since the 15th century for their

golden touch.

sturdiness and superior grip compared to wooden frames. But around 1756, opticians turned their backs on leather frames, having found easier to implement materials. For 2014, DiOR is bringing leather back, starting with the “Blacktie 193/S” model covered entirely in luxury leather.

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CA Z A L 656

44.9626, 9.9055 Autogrill Piacenza

43.8315, 11.1575

41.9010, 12.4810 41.8705, 12.7695

41.8705, 12.7695

How Italian Highways Inspired the Design of Our Sunglasses

44.9626, 9.9055

Doesn’t that sound crazy? That’s what people would probably think of Italian highways being used as inspirations. Well, we’re not talking about highways in general, but the one and only “Autostrada del Sole”!

And of course we’re not speaking about concrete and asphalt. The inspirations are given by unique spots, sights, landmarks and historic buildings along this way.

Let’s take the Autogrill Piacenza (coordinates: 44.9626, 9.9055): it’s one of the first European socalled “bridge restaurants” that spans the highway.

This kind of restaurants designed by the architect Angelo Bianchetti in the late 1950s and beginning of the 60s are still remaining along the highways to this day and their definite and pure lines are reflected in the respective sunglass models.

Another example is the “Chiesa dell’Autostrada del Sole”(coordinates: 43.8315, 11.1575), designed by the architect Giovanni Michelucci in honor of all the workers who lost their lives during the construction period of “Autostrada del Sole”. The neo-expressionistic design of the building, completed in 1964, is a key work of Italy’s organic architecture, and it’s opposed shapes inspire the sunglass design. Those are not the only stimulating buildings along the way: the highway hotel from the movie “Thrilling”, or the famous “Casa Ufo” from the Italian architect Francesco Attanasio were both inspirations for the Strada del Sole collection “il meglio di …”. By the way, the GPS coordinates of each inspiring spot are engraved at the backside of the glasses. Perhaps a good idea to drive down the highway towards the sun?

www.stradadelsole.ch

THE RE A S ON W H Y

Meta-level: The picture within the picture “Can you see the guy with the Cazal glasses?” – “You mean Rouvio with the 616?” – “No, the guy on the T-shirt.” – “Yep, Rouvio.”

I’ve always been fascinated by these photographs that contain a smaller version of themselves – a picture within a picture – hidden somewhere in a photo frame or the like. When I was little, I thought that given a strong enough magnifying glass, you could literally lose yourself inside one of these photographs, attaining glimpses of infinity. It’s kind of like looking for the end of the universe – where is it? It’s nowhere to be found, but has to be somewhere. For a partner in crime for a recent “ infinity” photo shoot, I found T-shirt artist Rouvio, who printed an image of himself wearing a pair of Cazals 616s onto a shirt. Get your magni­f ying glasses out and take the trip...

P hoto: St efa n Dongus

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CAZAL »616«

the reASon WhY

MYKITA »oLGA«

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Heaven My photo agency asked all of their photographers to create a personal piece around the theme “heaven”. Every one of us was to provide an artistic and individual interpretation. My entry follows a very personal approach: “Heaven” to me is not the blue sky above us or the clouds shedding rain, but it’s an elevated feeling. A really comfortable mood, a moment in which you feel up there, like you’re in heaven. And isn’t it also true that an intensely elevated feeling in many cases also comes from feeling attracted to another person? I would agree.

P hoto: facebook .com/mert photo St y l ing: rol fbuck .de H air & M ak e-Up: k er st inhajdu.com Model : A nissa @ Modelw er k .de Fashion: A shirov M art ic / ashirov mart ic .com

the reASon WhY

STRADA DEL SoLE »080AE«

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BoBBleheaDs Say “cheese”, you know you’re on camera!

Lots of photos these days are completely staged and superficial, which is also the photographers’ fault. With this “bobblehead” shoot, I wanted to take the whole staged facial expression thing to the next level. These images are caricatures of self-confident women and strong men, always funny and in a great mood. With some extra make-up and Photo-shop magic, we created this series of bobble heads – always smiling, always bobbing along, no matter what life may throw their way. But are these people really always perfectly content, like the photos may suggest?

Sometimes, the loudest people are really the most quiet on the inside. And those acting the strongest are really the most frail. To me, the true art of photography lies in capturing the real moods of the people in my pictures. Otherwise, you might as well shoot some bobbleheads.

P hoto: Tobias Schult

the reASon WhY

HoFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR »URBAN 12 H 10«

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All Nature Photographers simply love Cape Town. Not only because of the quality of light, but also the natural, rough atmosphere. Our team was looking forward to taking the trip to the sunny edge of the African continent in January. Our mission was to shoot the latest collection of glasses from Hoffmann Natural Eyewear. And since their glasses are exclusively made from natural resources, we set out to find some “natural” locations for our photo shoots. We ended up with some pretty dramatic backdrops in the woods beneath Table Mountain, the sand dunes of Table View and a dried-up lake in Worcester. And we didn’t mind the bad weather. It’s all part of nature, after all...

P hoto: St efa n K apfer – st efa nk apfer .de H air & M ak e Up: Nicol a Weidema n n – nicol aw eidema n n.de Model : R ahel @ model-pool .de Dr ess : St r ehlow – st r e-low.com

the reASon WhY

PRADA »SPR 09Q«

snow-white & rose-reD One of the major themes in the fairy tale of Snow-White and Rose-Red is the flawless beauty of the two sisters. While Snow-White is quiet and shy, Rose-Red is outgoing and cheerful – and both are described in the Brothers Grimm’s tale as the superlative idea of beauty incarnate. The classic story inspired us to interpret perfect beauty in a contemporary context. Like a fairy tale, too good to be true – but truly beautiful.

P hoto: St efa nie Neuma n n / st efa nie-neuma n n.de A rt Dir ec t ion & Post produc t ion: Ru t h Spil l er / pixelchic .de H air & M ak e-up: Br it ta Nür nberg / br it ta-hair lou nge .de Model s: Val en t ina & K at i @ Model Pool Düssel dor f

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CHoPARD »SCH 995S«

the reASon WhY

GöTTI »HAMLET«

46

Fleeting Momen ts Nosliw is a musician and a creative thinker. Much like me, Nosliw is always searching for inspiration, for new ideas to implement in our work. And sometimes these ideas are only fleeting moments that float by like smoke in the wind. Then it’s up to us whether or not we can make this fleeting moment into something that will last and have an impact on observers.

Or if we miss the opportunity and let it pass by, float away into the ether... So the biggest achievement behind the artistic process is to recognize this short impulse, this short flash of inspiration and run with it until it becomes reality – whether it’s music or photography.

P hoto: Tobias Schult

THE RE A S ON W H Y

Strada del Sole »No.9016«

Zoo Theft

BY ULRICH HARTMANN

In the eccentric road movie based on Jonas Jonasson’s novel The 100-Year-Old Man Who Climbed Out the Window and Disappeared, an elderly man with an elephant in tow is on the run from the Swedish police and Israeli secret service, among others. It’s an incredible chase, so much larger than life. Or is it? When I traveled to Cape Town, South Africa, for a photo shoot for Eyewear Magazine together with stylist Jochen Pohlmann, we made an equally crazy experience: We met up with our models Geli and Bee, provided by North-South Productions at the scenic Saxenburg Wine Estate & Wildlife Park. And since our models were running a little early, they decided to take advantage of the location and do a “little” wine tasting. Just as we finished setting up for the photo shoot, the top-shelf wines began taking full effect. Geli and Bee somehow got hold of a zebra(!) and began making their way towards Cape Town! The ensuing chase scene could have been straight out of a movie: Our crew raced after the two models, closely followed by the park’s gamekeepers, who were not very thrilled about the whole scene unfolding in the urban jungle. At the end of the day, Geli and Bee almost got away. If it hadn’t been for the throngs of onlookers, the gamekeepers would never have caught us. (Page 100 – 110).

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www.facebook.com/metropolitan.eyewear

OWP Brillen GmbH, www.metropolitan-eyewear.de htp.de

RG0005

RG0026

RG0020

RG0002

RG0010

d e S i G n AWA r d

RiGaRDS nonConfoRMiSt eYeWeaR The brand name Rigard is derived from the French word “regard”, meaning “to look at” or “to pay attention”. And garnering attention is what Rigard’s eccentric eyewear styles are all about. Admitted, these are not your everyday horn frames, and their nonconformist edge takes some self confidence on behalf of the wearer. Then again, designer Ti Kwa is committed to defying pre-established conventions in his artistic process. Rules are for other people, Ti Kwa’s designs are unconstrained and bold, and... pretty loud.

Behind the scenes, the playful design approach is subject to harsh quality standards. One out of two designs will never make it into production and ends up being thrown out after undergoing Rigard’s rigorous selection process. Ultimately, every piece of hand-made eyewear released by Rigard is emblematic of the upcoming label’s design language and attitude. With a broad variety of styles and attention to detail, the label has already built and impressive legacy. Congrats are in order: We present this issue’s Design Award to Rigard.

Look at that!

51

52

Clothing : Bill + Mar

by Madame Peripe tie

J. F. Rey »Hold Up«

Clothing : Peridot London

Rolf ÂťMajestic 82ÂŤ

54

Strada del Sole »8836«

Clothing : Escada Spor t

Funk ÂťFortunaÂŤ

56

Clothing : Monkl

Clothing : JC de Castelbajac

Adrian Marwitz »Stranger No. 9«

Clothing : Monkl

Martin & Martin ÂťIngeÂŤ

58

Clothing : Tabitha Webb

Etnia Barcelona ÂťArnhemÂŤ

Clothing : Hugo Boss

Markus T ÂťT3033198ÂŤ

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LINDBERG »6523« Clothing : Tara Jarmon

Clothing : Heohwan Simulation

Hamburg Eyewear »Hinnerk«

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Photos: Madame Peripetie @ Mark George | Photo assistant: Panos Damaskinidis | Assistants: Lesley-Ann Daly, Nirma Madhoo Styling: Stella Arion | Fashion assistants: Sofia Drakou, Ruhani Singh | Make-Up: Marina Keri using BECCA Hair: Muamera Pulic @ STILPLATTE using Bumble & Bumble | Props: Emily Pugh | Props assistant: Josceline O'Sullivan Model: Tatjana @ Profile

Clothing : YSL

Götti »Alley«

SnEakEr hEaDS

adidas | ZX Flux

b y M an u e l M itte l p u n k t

Invu »P 2400«

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Lacoste | Barbuda

Coblens »30052 Tankwart«

Vans | oT W Tesella

ETNIA BARCELoNA »Africa 03«

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KangaRooS | Blaze

IC! BERLIN »S25 Tegel«

Vans | Era

WooDoNE » Alpin 01 «

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PUMA | Disc

BoLLÉ »6th Sense 11843«

Reebok | GL 6000

Police » S 1936 «

W a n t m o r e S n e a k e rs ?

C h e c k o ur S i s t e r M a g a z i n e ! www . s n e a k e rs - m a g a z i n e . c o m

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w w w. fle y e . d k

A dark collection of extreme lightness

Photos: Stefan Dongus

MEN @ W OR K

Material girl: Floors, chairs, walls and glasses – it’s all about wood for Mary.

72

ROlF SPeCTACleS X M ARIjA IljAZOVIC » TYROleAN TIMBeR-WOMeN « There’s a first time for everything. In this edition of Men @ Work, we’re actually showcasing our very first woman at work.

What took us so long? Could it be that eyewear design is a men’s domain? Or maybe we just never came across a designer as

talented

and

well-rounded

as

Marija

Iljazovic.

When

we

met Marija at Rolf Spectacles headquarters in the town of Weissenbach in the mountainous Tyrol region, we were blown away by the former snowboard instructor’s versatility and drive. We’re talking about drive in the literal sense here, as she briefly interrupted our tour to maneuver a wayward forklift out of the way without missing a beat. Marija also took the time to walk us through the intricacies of Rolf’s custom-made manufacturing machinery for their unique wooden frames. Through it all, the passion and dedication in the way Marija Iljazovic approaches her job at Rolf Spectacles shines through in every aspect. live from the Tyrolean woodlands, here’s the woman behind the wooden frames in her own words.

men @ WorK

Mary,

you’re

the

first

female

designer tobe featured in our Men @ Work section. Do we need to change the name?

ROLF FIREFLITE

Men @ Work, Women @ Work, People @ Work… It’s an honor to be the first woman featured here.

Rolf

Spectacles

reputation

has

built

forwooden

a

eyewear

frames. But honestly, were you the first company to craft from this

ROLF HORNET

rawmaterial? people

technical innovations such as the

began crafting the first frames from

wooden hinges and the lens mounting

wood, wire and carved semi-precious

further

stones for the lenses. Wood has

We

always been a factor in eyewear

manufacturers of wooden eyewear.

manufacturing ever since. We see

We would like to be able to combine

it as our mission to put wood as a

functionality

raw material in a new perspective

our frames, and stay true to our

in today’s eyewear industry. We

philosophy. Our goal is to keep

want the implementation to be novel

surprising the industry with new

and without compromise. This is

and innovative products.

About

500

years

ago,

how we arrived at our basic shape with the curvature at the sides to create a fluid transition between the front and the temples. Our 74

do

complement not

define

and

the

frame.

ourselves

aesthetics

as

in

From the village of Weissenbach to the world market: ROLF spectacles is known across the globe for quality and innovation.

High tech meets nature: Even computer and RFID cases are individually crafted from wood.

MEN @ W OR K

Your brand communications always in Weissenbach with the aim of emphasizeyour regional origins. Is creating

the

perfect

pair

of

the wood from the Tyrol region actually glasses in terms of durability, better than elsewhere, or is it a comfort

and

matter of personal attachment to really your home?

aesthetics.

high

level

of

requires

This

quality

outstanding

The ties to our native region are craftsmanship as well as an invery important to us as a family house

research

and

development

business. We want to keep living departmentworking towards our goal our values, even as the company every single day. This is why it’s continues to grow. Rolf is about hard for us to imagine to surrender natural, genuine eyewear, crafted control

of

some

parts

of

the

with a passion and attention to production process. Outsourcing is detail. The craftsmanship and our absolutely out of the question for dedication are fundamental to our us. success. And based on the regional location

of

our

manufacturing As a designer at Rolf Spectacles,

branch, we not only run a lean and you play a major part in the entire responsive process in development production pro­ cess. What is your and

production,

but

we’re

also personal background andwhat kind of

supporting our region.

qualifications led to your current role?

Next to giving back to the region, As

a

what kind advantages does running civil

blueprint

designer

engineering,

I

in

attained

your own workshop offer in terms of skills in sketching and CAD. And quality?

working as a snowboard instructor

We craft every single one of our together frames in our manufacturing plant how 76

to

with be

Roland

taught

self-sufficient.

me And

Walking the halls, operating a forklift: Mary maintains a hands-on approach.

all of a sudden I found myself

I’m responsible for creating the

working in eyewear distribution.

final form. But there are design

All of these experience and lots

and

project

of learning-by-doing paved the way

made

in

to being able to see an eyewear

with the research and development

design through from the initial

department.

sketch all the way to the final NC files for production.

Do you work in creative isolation or areother people involved in the design process?

decisions close

that

are

communications

MEN @ W OR K

What’s your usual design process

also think that on a sub­ conscious

from startto finish?

level, people collect a vast number

For us, every new set of frames

of impressions every day, which you

starts with a vintage car.They’ve

can draw on at the right time. Time

always

first

spent with my two dogs and horses

Volkswagen

plays a great part in my life and

set

fascinated

of

wheels

us.

was

My

a

bug! Twice as old as myself, it inspired

me

to

get

my

offers some much-needed balance.

drivers

license. Roland’s first car was a

What are the main tools of your

Mercedes 8. When we go about form

trade?Pen and paper or modern-day

finding for new frames, we decide

CAD-software?

on a particular make of vintage

With

car and also consider technical,

steps and our mostly rather tight

optical

timelines

and

historical

aspects.

the

sequence in

of

mind,

production

CAD-software

After laying down the construction

is getting the upper hand, since

we go right into manufacturing the

these files are the foundation for

first prototypes. And although we can

producing the first prototypes.

already try the glasses on after a short amount of time, the most

With

your

extensive

exciting part about manufacturing

expertise,

is the hands-on manual work.

responsibilities

do

you

technical take

on

beyond

pro­ duct

founded

our

company,

of

part­ ners

design?

Next to vintage automobiles, where

When

do you find inspiration in your

the

constellation

daily job?

also

put

The first line of inspiration are

resources

indeed vintage cars, which offer

may sound contradictory, but both

the basis for our designs. But I

of 78

we

these

me

in

and

charge

of

accounting.

departments

human Which

actually

Âť The first line of inspiration are indeed vintage cars, which offer the basis for our designs. ÂŤ

men @ WorK

complement one another quite well.

Sounds

like

serious

multi-tasking.

you

put

it

such

takes

great

some

Why

do

emphasis

on not using any metal in your frames,

even

Well,

pair

a

in of

the

ROLF CAMARO

hinges?

wooden

frames

with a metal bolt is only a pair of

wooden

bolt

in

frames

it.

But

with

a

wooden

metal frames

with wood hinges are genuinely wooden

frames.

even

a

small ROLF COUGER

metal bolt can be rather painful for Wooden

people hinges

advantage

of

with also being

allergies. the

open and close the hinges to see

anti-static

why we consider them the perfect

offer

and maintenance-free, since the

solution

hinges don’t open or close on their

When it comes to lens setting,

own and also have a block before

resorting

touching the lenses. These kind

also not an option for us, since

of technical properties can only

we would never be able to offer

be attained by most manufacturers

thin-rimmed frames. Wooden frames

of metal hinges by resorting to

suffer from stability issues when

springs and other kinds of labor-

the frame needs to be perforated

intensive trickery. everyone can

for

pick up a pair of Rolf frames and

consists

80

some

for to

wooden metal

reason. of

a

frames.

screws

Our

is

solution

proprietary,

system

From our product sample cases all

that un­locks thinly framed designs

the way to our entire tradeshow

without

a

booth, Rolf Spectacles is hands-

standard bevel design in a cold

on about creating the look of our

lens fitting process, this could

company.

never be achieved at high quality

passion

standards.

something personal and unique are

tension-free

lens-fitting

metal

inserts.

With

Attention and

a

to

drive

our motivating factors.

The entire “screwless” concept is not limi­ ted to your frames, but also the design of your glasses cases and product sample cases.

What’s the motivation?

to

detail, create

MEN @ W OR K

a great degree of flexibility when it comes to realizing even some understated designs.

A while ago you began incorporating glasses

into

from

wider

a

your

spread

materials,including What are the challenges when it

horn.Is

it

comes

frames

specialist

todesigning

eyewear

from

line

okay

made

of

raw

bamboo

and

for

a

wooden

to

craft

wood? Some things are just not

spectacles from horn?

possible, right?

There can’t be any limits when

We’ve made it our job to make the

you’re creating something that’s

seemingly impossible happen. But

never been done before. Due to

it’s important to stay true to our

our

philosophy and never stop halfway.

in

Ultimately, the wood itself is in

we

charge of the design as it lends

glasses

every set of frames its own unique

material. The Rolf horn frame is

look.

the first of its kind that’s been

experience producing could

and

competence

eyewear

frames,

theoretically from

any

produce

type

of

crafted entirely from horn. Thanks Are there certain frame designs

to the curvature at the edges of

that are impossible to implement

the middle section, the transition

in wood?

from the front to the temples is

Rimless

glasses

could

seamless,

be

while

the

continuity

technical

enhances the overall structure. The

features behind Rolf eyewear offer

pureHorn line is crafted entirely

problematic...

The

82

» We’ve made it our job to make the seemingly impossible happen. « from horn. The hinges are crafted

international recognition at many

from horn as well, thereby creating

industry awards. When I created

the very first entirely horn frames.

the Dino model for Silmo 2011, I literally could not wait – despite

There

are

also

combinations

of

our

speedy

in-house

production

stone-wood

process – to try on the first set of

frames. Are these styles rather

stone frames. With this material,

labor-intensive

it’s also true that the stone itself

materials

suchas

the from

a

design

perspective?

with its structure and color palette

We’re really proud of the stone

is playing its own hand into the

frames.

combining

design process and final outcome.

shale with wood has garnered us

And we only saw after previewing

Our

idea

of

MEN @ W OR K

the first stone video clip, what a

Which

powerful addition stone can be to a

designed

set of Rolf frames. At the time, the

favorite? And is it also popular

material

with fans?

was

rather

unknown

in

one

of is

been

the

models

your

faithful

to

you

personal

the eyewear industry, but now you

I’ve

my

Farina

can see it offered by numerous

glasses for two years now. And they

other manufacturers in the eyewear

turned out to be a hot seller.

industry.

Wooden frames have become rather Next to your main line, there’s

popular.There are not only numerous

also

manufacturers,but a great number

an“advanced”

collection.

What’s the difference?

of glasses that maynot be made from

The Rolf “advanced collection –

wood, but offer a “wood”finish. How

the next level of wooden eyewear”

do you view this trend?

is marked by its own form language

The entire perception, consciousness

in

and

a

unique

three-dimensional

purchase

decision-making

implementation. Depending on the

process among consumers – meaning

observer’s point of view, the unique

what they’re buying and what they’re

interaction

wearing – is increasingly trending

of

different

blends

of wood appears in a new light.

towards

The main collection, on the other

entered the market in 2009, there

hand, is very clear in its design

were hardly any other manufacturers

language and combinations of woods.

of wooden frames besides Herrlicht.

In both collections, the final hand-

The trend of an increasing amount of

crafted touch is what makes each

manufacturers resorting to natural

pair of frames, from the “advanced”

materials and some degree of copy-

and

true

catting of Rolf designs is further

craftsmanship.

proof that our idea is successful. We

“main”

piece

of

collections,

upscale

a

84

sustainability.

When

we

Hard at work: Mary gets her design inspiration from vintage automobile magazines.

ROLF PENNANT

men @ WorK

respect everyone pursuing their own thing. But it can be infuriating to encounter attempts at plagiarizing our proucts and image. how

do

you

deal

with

these

cases?

Everything is “Made in Tyrol” – from design all the way into production.

For us it’s an added motivation to constantly keep progressing.

Do you think wood could turn out to

be

a

short-lived

trend,

or

does it have a futureas a staple raw

material

in

the

eyewear

industry?

Wood is a natural, timeless raw material and thereby sustainable and not subject to any trends.

It’s more of a statement and way of life. There’s always been wood in the eye-wear industry, and there always will be. We have played our part in establishing it on the market.

Mary, thanks for the interview and the tour.

86

CAROLIN/INTERNATIONAL TRADER/ WEARS MARKUS T 100% Handmade in Germany

d e tA i L S

lEISuRE SOCIET Y V O lTA I R E

It’s all in the details. Here at EYEWEAR Magazine, we’re always keeping an eye out for eyewear designs that set the tone and lead the way where others try to f ollow. For this edition’s Details column, we’re zooming in on a pair of Leisure Society glasses. Designer Shane Baum’s prestigious eyewear label is known for eschewing flashy logos in favor of a signature design language marked by a passion for quality materials and subtle details. Take this frame, for instance: Crafted from 100% titanium and coated with 18 karat gold with contrasting inlays in the front section, complemented by temple tips from genuine buffalo horn.

The lenses are polarized CR-39 with waterrepellent and scratch-resistant coating.

Perfection.

Photos: Raphael Schmitz

88

i LiKe!

W i n n e r s G a L L e ry With over 500 exhibitors and 1,200 brands from 34 countries, opti tradeshow in Munich, Germany, was a blast. During our three-day outing at opti, we met an amazing amount of great people, handed out over 5,000 copies of EYEWEAR magazine and took just as many digital portraits. After two days of picking our favorites and applying some filters and final touch-ups, we spent a week posting the best shots for our Facebook followers to vote on. So without further ado, here are the five winners:

KILSGAARD

Jacob

273 Likes

90

WooDoNE

Josef

256 Likes

MAINHATTAN

Axel

240 Likes

FUNK

CAZAL

Maria

218 Likes

92

Christian

208 Likes

GooD

GUys

GOOD

GlASSES

Some say that glasses are for geeks. But that’s a dated stereotype. Because whoever said you can’t be smart and have lots of fun at the same time? On the following eight pages, we’re showcasing some of the fun-loving folks that dropped by our booth at opti eyewear tradeshow this year. Colorful characters that are living proof that “glasses in the front, party in the back” is not an exception to the rule, but a way of life. Get ready to meet the Smart Guys of the eyewear business.

UNDoSTRIAL

lUCaS: the fReethinkeR Lucas de Stael von Holstein always looks like he’s recovering from a wild night of parties when we meet him at tradeshows.

Which makes us like him even more. Plus the fact that he is the grandson of Russian painter Nicolas de Staël von Holstein and has graduated from ENSCI-Les Ateliers in 2003.

94

TARIAN

JÜRGen: the PhilanthRoPe While on an expedition through the Himalaya region, Jürgen Altmann from Munich found out that people there are unable to afford sufficient sun-protecting eyewear. Ever since then, the philanthropist has been collecting sunglasses and sending them into the Ladakh region. So far, his Shades of Love project has shipped more than 8,000 pairs of sunglasses. This ranks Jürgen very high on the list of coolest people in our book.

Good GuYS

L’AMY

PaBlo: the aRtiSt Inspired by iconic graffiti writers such as Can2, Loomit or Toast, one day Pablo Fontagnier assumed the handle Hombre.

Graffiti has offered Hombre a rich canvas for expressing all the characters, shapes and colors wandering through his creative mind, making the world a brighter place one dull, gray wall at a time.

96

kinG De la SalSa: the PiMP Nobody knows where he came from – or what his story may be. He just popped up at our booth and instantly became the center of attention. But one thing’s for certain: This colorful bird of paradise has more than earned his spot in this collection of portraits.

CAZAL

Good GuYS

JenS: the MiniMaliSt For decades, Denmark has been building a reputation for functional, timeless design classics. William Sørensen, founder of eyewear label Nine, is also banking on the quintessential combination of minimalist design and maximum quality.

NINE

CARLoTTAS VILLAGE

Bo: the hUnteR Bo Dokkedal Leth used to have a career as – wait for it – a boxer! But a slew of injuries forced him to hang up the gloves, and pick up a hunting rifle. Whenever he’s not camped out in his hide in his very own forest waiting for game, he’s taking charge in his job at Carlottas Village. Which also involves hunting, in a way, for new customers, sales reps and distributors.

98

RolanD: the ViSionaRY

RoLF SPECTACLES

FUNK

CoCo: the BeaUtY Coco Meurer is heading up the marketing department at Funk Eyewear, while also moonlighting as a fashion writer. She’s also the only woman to make it into this photo spread. And she almost made the top 5 in our Facebook vote. Anyways, she’ll always be the prettiest woman in eyewear to us.

According to Roland Wolf, the founder of eyewear brand Rolf Spectacles, there are 78 steps in the work process from raw billet to finished frames. The man knows his field. After all, his wooden frames have been picking up awards left and right.

Good GuYS

ti kWa: the aeSthete Ti Kwa from Malaysia is designing Rigards eyewear from rough buffalo horn.

This task involves countless hours spent hunting for suitable raw materials and designs. The name “Rigards” is based on the French word “regard”, meaning “to take a look”. And taking a close gander is definitely worth it in this case – Rigards hand-made horn frames are really something else!

RIGARDS

SVen: MC fUnk SvenKatmando-Christ is not only an individual with an unconventional name – he really is an unconventional person.

With a penchant for leather jackets with fur collars, he’s in charge of look books and artist relations at Cazal, and he also finds the time to spin funk records on weekends.

CAZAL

100

JakoB: JaCk of all tRaDeS KILSGAARD

Jakob is a trained optician as well as partner and sales director at Kilsgaard.

The three-time father and passionate golf player is in charge of technical aspects at Kilsgaard. Calling himself the “Technical Joint Dude”, he forms the intersection between technical customer requirements and the Kilsgaard design department.

JÉRÉMY: the aVantGaRDiSt If you work in the eyewear business, you know Jérémy Tarian.

It’s that simple. The Frenchman is known – much like his famous father Alain Mikli – for designing highly coveted eyewear.

JEREMY TARIAN

Good GuYS

ENToURAGE oF 7

JakoB talBo: the tRaVelleR “Jakob, are you in Denmark or in L.A.?” – “I’m in San Francisco!“ – “Ah... of course!” It’s always hard to keep track of where Jakob and his famous entourage are at, mostly because if his job as sales director at Bellinger House. The fact that he knows every other celebrity around L.A. and supplies them with glasses also adds to his world-traveling, cosmopolitan charms.

etienne: the netWoRkeR SUZY GLAM

102

Some brands gain their strength from talented, but shy people pulling the strings behind the scenes without drawing too much attention to themselves.

As a co-founder of Suzy Glam, Etienne Frederiks played a key role in winning the brand its 2013 Hall of Frames Eyestylist Newcomer Award in gold.

UNDoSTRIAL

iBRahiMa: kinG of the RoaD Ibrahima was already a dominating force in last year’s opti photo shoot. Compared to this bloke, all other so-called “men” are hardly young whippersnappers in the late throngs of puberty. But beneath his rough exterior, Ibrahima proves to be charming, humorous and highly accessible. And all of these qualities sure come in handy in his job as a sales rep for Tarian and Lucas de Stael.

ChRiStoPh: the MUlti-StYleR He knows the business, and knows how to party.

He is a cosmopolitan gentleman, but also looks good in a bike racing suit. His Berlin-based design office is always on the move, wherever he goes. Anyone looking for Kilsgaard glasses in Germany knows what to do: Call Christoph.

KILSGAARD

coLLectorS checK

christian MetZLer f RoM ‘70S to ‘90S

 

a l if e of V in taGe Getting the name of your favorite eyewear brand tattooed on your middle finger is pretty hardcore.

And it’s a serious testament to being passionate about high-end eyewear design. Enter seasoned eyewear collector and facial hair horticulturist Christian Metzler from the quaint little town of pforzheim,

Germany.

The

well-traveled

people

photographer with the CAZAL logo tatt’ed on the side of his knuckles can also back up his ink with an enormous eyewear collection. We visited the soft-spoken 33-yearold in his home, where he likes to hold court right in front of a repurposed optician’s glasses display, which he hoisted into his living room with five of his friends. here’s Christian’s life of vintage eyewear, in his own words.

Photo: Stefan Dongus

105

CO L L ECTOR S CHEC K

Christian, how many glasses are in your

Alpina M6. And it’s been on ever since, the

collection right now?

search never ends!

Great question! Honestly, I haven’t counted

Are there any glasses you collect in

them in a while. But overall, there are more

particular? Certain brands or styles, or is

than one thousand. I’d eyeball it at around

it wide open for you?

1,600 pairs right now. And there are always

Whenever someone asks me, I tell them:

more coming in...

I collect glasses from the late Seventies, the horrible Eighties and the early Nineties.

Around 1,600? And you’re not done yet?

Which means that glasses from this era

No, I don’t think there’s an end in sight. I’m

are my focus, but it also depends on the

not done yet.

individual make and model and how I like it. I collect prescription frames as well as

When did you start collecting? And what

sunglasses, and men’s and women’s styles

attracted you to eyewear?

just the same. Over the years, one particular

I started about ten years ago. The initial

brand has emerged as a favorite: CAZAL!

trigger was a pair of black Alpina M1s, which

But I still collect pretty much anything that

my girlfriend at the time gave me as a gift.

catches my eye.

She picked them up at a flea market for 1 euro, but they were too big, so I ended

Which styles do you like the best?

up with them. I really loved that particular

Looking at the whole thing closely, I would

model and wore it a whole lot. Then one

say aviator frames.

day, I watched the video to the Jay-Z song “Show Me What You Got” and saw him

Which model is your all-time favorite?

wearing the same glasses! So I googled the

Ah man, that’s a tough question! If you

model and brand and learned about vintage

would ask about certain brands and my

eyewear for the very first time. Then I went

favorite model in their collection, that would

to a flea market myself and hunted down an

be much easier. But hey, I’ll give it a shot: The

106

Time to expand: The collection has outgrown the eyewear display!

Alpina Goldwing, Cazal 627 and 642, and the Alpina M1.

That’s a classic selection. Are there any current eyewear labels that tickle your fancy?

Yes and no. i pay attention to modern-day labels and models, but i mostly end up liking the re-releases of old classics. Or i end up in desperation about the utter lack of originality, with which current labels are biting old treasures. Here and there, there’ll be new

 i ColleCt GlaSSeS fRoM the late SeVentieS, the hoRRiBle eiGhtieS anD the eaRlY ninetieS. 

coLLectorS checK

ALPINA GoLDWING

most well-adjusted adults keep their TV set. Isn’t that a bit much? i don’t really watch TV and the eyewear display has really great mood lighting. So i wouldn’t call it over the top. Most of the glasses in my collection are much prettier and way more interesting than 90% of all TV glasses that i’m hyped about. But most of the

programs.

time, these end up being really expensive.

Like the Celine gold chain shades or the

Do you take your eyewear treasures out

Chanel 5202 with mirrored temples, which i

for a walk sometimes, or are they kept in

recently purchased.

an ivory tower?

Speaking of expensive eyewear, does your collection get heavy on the wallet?

You’ve amassed a pretty sizable – and

Of course i’m out rocking some of my treasures! Not all of them, but definitely more than other collectors.

valuable – collection here. Enough to buy

Speaking of collectors, what’s the big

an apartment in pforzheim, no?

attraction to collecting eyewear? What

Well, looking at what people on the internet

are the most joyful moments about the

like to charge for some of my frames, it’s

whole thing?

surely enough to buy an apartment. But i

i’ve always had an urge to be a collector

really don’t use my collection for trading

of something, but i just couldn’t decide

that much, it’s not something i want to be

on anything cool. Until i came across my

a part of. And i think that price levels on the

first M1s. The nice thing about glasses

internet can be totally over the top at times.

is that you can actually wear them.

You display your treasured collection right

And the best moments are clearly when

in the middle of your living room, where

you find a particular model that you’ve

108

been after for a long time. Maybe you’ve been searching for six years and then BOOM! – you’re holding it in your hands. And you also know that there’s an entire community of collectors smiling with you. Or when you find a pair of glasses you had no idea even existed, a super cool model you’ve never seen before. Another great moment is when you trade with another collector and both parties end up expanding their collections in the process. And it’s also great when you can arrange to get a certain model for

Sometimes when Christian is especially enamored with a pair of glasses, his roommate will craft him a matching ring, like this Cazal 163 piece.

ALPINA M1

coLLectorS checK

another collector and help him out... that

up cash for new purchases. After all, the

always makes me super happy!

funds for the collection have to come from somewhere.

Do you ultimately sell your glasses at some point or are they strictly for keeps?

What was your most pricey purchase so far?

No, i’m not selling them. There are rare

i think my Cazal 627.

exceptions. Since i don’t aim to make any profit from my collection, i’m part of a pretty

And which model took the most effort to

elite commu-nity of collectors. i know lots

hunt down?

of people in the “vintage eyewear” scene

Another tough one! (laughs) Depends on

who are collectors. But most of them will

how you define effort. For example, i’ve

try to make some kind of profit from it on

waited for several months to get my hands

the side, if they can. As for me, i personally

on a Cazal 634, which i traded for another

never had the goal of making money from

pair of glasses. i had a Persol 714 Ratti and

collecting eyewear. But there have been

some collectors were ready to pay top dollar

instances when i sold a pair of glasses, for

for it, or negotiate a really generous trade.

example when i had an extra pair of the same

There were some pretty good offers, but

model or a friend or collector was looking

this one collector from italy asked me to

for that exact pair of glasses. Ultimately, the

trust him and keep the Persol on hold for

main motivation in these cases is to free

him. He said it would take some time, but ultimately he would be able to trade me an

CAZAL 627

extremely rare Cazal 634. So i took a leap of faith and agreed to wait. And it paid off, since i’m now the proud owner of one of the rarest Cazal styles of them all, the 634!

110

And which glasses were the best bargain?

Cartiers and Boeings, for 1.50 euros a piece. That’s never going to happen again, ever. But those were some of the happiest moments as a collector.

You probably won’t reveal any of your sources or inside scoops, right? if you know exactly which model you’re looking for, the internet is a good place

 SoMeDaY, i Want to Go on a JoURneY aRoUnD the WoRlD to ViSit all ColleCtoRS to take theiR PoRtRaitS foR a Book. 

to start. Or you may want to reach out to someone like me with connections to collectors and traders worldwide. Most models are still available somewhere, if you know where to look. So don’t hesitate to ask, i’m always happy to help!

CAZAL 634

coLLectorS checK

There seems to be an internationally

i don’t need a nickname! My user name on

connected collectors community. how do

instagram, where i like to showcase a lot of my

you communicate with each other?

collection is CHRiSTiANMETZLERCOM.

You’re right, it really is an international

But other than that, i operate under my

network. Straight off the bat, the following

real name, which is also a way of keeping it

countries

honest.

come

to

mind:

Germany,

Switzerland, Austria, Holland, Finland, Sweden, italy, Egypt, Turkey, Denmark,

With so much love for a product – one

Greece, Japan, Thailand, Canada and the

that’s also taking up lots of space in your

U.S. i know collectors in all these places

apartment – is there room in your life for

and we communicate via Facebook.

another person?

Plenty of room, actually!

how can people join this community?

Is there some kind of code of conduct or

Does your partner need to share your

initiation for newbies?

love of eyewear, or simply refrain from

Not really, except having an interest in

destroying your collection in a fit of

glasses and their history and design.

jealousy?

it’s also important to be honest in your

My partner can do as she likes. But my lovely

interactions with others in the community.

Nadia does share my fascination with glasses

Unfortunately, some pretty ugly things have

and sunglasses... to some degree. Especially

gone down between some collectors and

since i told her that her face is shaped

some “wannabe” collectors (mostly people

perfectly for 1990s frames. Everything by

looking for a quick buck), which have sort of

Versace, Fendi, Gaultier etc. that’s not too

dampened the mood in the scene.

huge and oval-shaped looks like customfitted on her. And if the whole eyewear thing

Do you have a handle or nickname in the

gets too much for her, i can kick it with my

collector’s community?

brother Dennis who caught the eyewear

112

bug from me and will forever share my

a living. I’m super happy to photograph

passion.

people and look forward to getting up every day and heading over to the studio

A guy like you would seem more at home

or a photo shoot.

in a metropolis like Cologne or Berlin,

What’s the biggest attraction about

not in quaint and conservative Pforzheim.

photography?

How come you never left?

Being in touch with so many people. My

Thanks! Pforzheim is my home, I was

main line of work is peoplephotography, so

born and raised here. The great thing

I get to meet lots of different individuals. I

about my job is that I get around a lot

also like to be able to direct the shoot. I get

without being tied to one place. So I get

to tell people how to position themselves,

to breathe some city air whenever I like,

how to look and act. And I can control the

also since Pforz­heim is only 40 minutes

lighting – from broad daylight to moody

away from Stuttgart and 30 minutes from

sunsets... All of that is really great fun

Karlsruhe and two hours from the Swiss

Is there a common denominator between

border. France is also super close! I may not

those two passions, taking photos and

stay here forever, but right now I’m totally

collecting eyewear?

comfortable.

Except being able to draw on my collection as props for photo shoots, not really. But

When

you’re

not

roaming

online

I actually have a dream to connect both

platforms in search of new treasures,

of these worlds. Someday, I want to go

you make a living as a photographer. Is

on a journey around the world to visit all

your life behind the lens simply a means

collectors to take their portraits for a book.

to pay for your expensive hobby, or are you also passionate about your work?

That sounds like an amazing project.

I love my job! And my work feels less like

Does your passion for collecting extend

“work” as for most people having to make

into other areas besides eyewear?

CO L L ECTOR S CHEC K

Next to eyewear, I collect a bit of luxury

history behind the brand and the storied

goods from the Eighties and Nineties. I

connection to hip-hop culture make Cazal

have a small collection of vintage designer

something really special in this world of

jewelry and MCM leather goods, as well

eyewear. And I always get to wear Cazal,

as the occasional Gianni Versace silk shirt,

even when I left my glasses at home – just

belts or scarfs by Chanel, Balmain, MCM.

put a finger over a my eye and there you go!

And Rolex watches.

Are you sure you’ll still be into the logo in Other tattoo aficionados will end up

20 years?

getting the name of their first-born child

Oh well, that’s always the probing question

inked onto their body. Your right middle

behind getting a tattoo, but let’s turn it

finger is adorned with the CAZAL brand

around: The positive thing about a tattoo

logo. What’s special about that brand?

is that it’s forever and you can be sure of

It’s because Cazal advanced to become my

it. There are really not that many things in

absolute favorite brand within the shortest

life that are really 100% forever! And I also

amount of time. The design, the entire114think that collecting eyewear in one way or another will still be a part of my life in 20 years, so the Cazal logo will be a positive



reminder on my skin at all times.

Christian, thanks so much for the interview.

114



Necklaces: Ida Elsje & Olive Green Cat / Jumpsuit: Filippa K

Hapter »M01M«

Makellos „ME 5008 “

by U lric h Hartmann

Photos: Ulrich Hartmann | Photo Assistant: Leon Production: North South Production | Styling: Jochen Pohlmann Hair- & Make-Up: Lars R眉ffert with products from Lanc么me, Armani und YSL Making of Video: Astrid Gleichmann Models: Geli F @ 20Management | Bee @ Boss Models

Glasses left + right Munic Eyewear »Mod.4«

118 Clothing left Leather-Shir t: m Muubaa / Shor ts: Top Shop Clothing right Top: Epanoui by Eva Poleschinski / Pants: By Malene Birger

Etnia Barcelona »Africa 01«

120

Clothing left Blouse: By Malene Birger / Mini-Skir t: G -Star Clothing right Sweatshir t: Stine Goya / Skir t: Johann

Paul Frank Âťone way wandererÂŤ

Strada del Sole »No.9016«

122

Clothing left Blouse: Hobbs / Pants: Franziska Michael Clothing right Dress: Pringle of Scotland

ic! berlin ÂťivaÂŤ

LINDBERG »8504«

124

Clothing left Pullover : Pringle of Scotland / Pants: Mini Market Clothing right Blouse: Joseph / Pants: Maison Mar tin Margiela

LINDBERG Âť8582ÂŤ

Clothing left Blazer : Hobbs Clothing right Necklace: COS / Tunic: By Malene Birger / Bootee: Minimarket

Giorgio Armani ÂťAR8018ÂŤ

126

Prada »SPR31P«

Rolf Spectacles »Riviera«

by Jürgen Lenhardt

128

Rolf Spectacles »Marlin«

Ørgreen »Moody«

130

Carlottas Village ÂťHabitÂŤ

Kilsgaard »64.2«

132

Fleye »Amy«

MunicEyeWear »856-5«

134

Adrian Marwitz »Stranger No. 2«

Woodone »Sirona«

136

Woodone »Aidan«

Photos: Jürgen Lenhardt – juergenlenhardt.de Hair & Make-up: Corine Spies – makeuphair.de Styling: Selma Armmari – selmaammari.de Model male: Michael B. – eastwestmodels.de Model female: Sandra M. – eastwestmodels.de Model female: Dana S. – modelpool.de Assistence: Nele Bayer

Metropolitan »8220«

138

BACK TO THE 80S OAKLEY HERITAGE

COLLECTION

RAZoRBLADES

EYESHADE

140

Photos: Raphael Schmitz

FRoGSKINS

RADARLoCK

FLAK JACKET

RACING JACKET

neW tech

M ET ROp OL ITA N Ne W HiNGe Progressive eyewear label OWP cites the legendary Fritz Lang movie Metropolis from the year 1927 as a major source of inspiration. The futuristic cityscapes with their high-rise buildings and endless acres of steel and concrete were the model

for

OWP’s

sleek

Metropolitan

logo in 2010. For their current collection,

the

signature

label

logo

re-interpreted

with

the

five

the bars.

The new glasses feature hinges with nine intertwined metal rods, somewhat reminiscent of the top of a beard

trimmer.

The

surfaces

of

the hinge are ion-plated, a process widely

used

in

jewelry

and

time-

piece design to ensure seamless color coating.

Combined

with

stain-

less steel and polymer elements, the hinges on the six new OTW frames create a look that’s at home in 1927 science fiction flicks as much as today’s city streets.

Photos: Raphael Schmitz

142

METRoPoLITAN »8220«

METRoPoLITAN »8221«

in duS t rY

144

Complaining about the overpowering inf luence of global eyewear corporations is easy. But what folks like Germany-based eyewear rep Ralph Albrecht are doing is hard: Backing up their words with actions. As a sales representative for indie brands including Barton Perreira, Moscot, Leisure Society and KBL, Albrecht is spreading the gospel of independent designer glasses, one pair at a time. For this edition’s Industry Insight, we visited the fast talker in his home right next-door to the Hockenheim Ring Formula One racetrack.

Meet the indie brands in R alph’s line-up: Bar ton Perreira , Moscot . Leisure Society, and KBL .

INDU S TR Y

So what do the Hockenheim Ring and

when I’m home, I enjoy the quiet solitude

Ralph Albrecht have in common?

of my village.

We’re both pretty fast... and not Ralph, how did you end up in eyewear?

necessarily known for being the quiet type.

It’s the only thing I know how to do! (laughs) No, it’s actually my passion! I’m a

This could be why you’ve racked up an impressive 1,002 friends on Facebook.

trained optician and went down this route quite early on.

Do you actually know all these people in When did you get started in the

real life?

Wow, I didn’t notice I’m past 1,000! I’d

business?

say that I actually know the majority

I started my training to become a licensed

personally, or at least have met them at

optician in 1985 and went into sales in

some point before. My social media use

1991. My first job was working for Alain

is mostly for business. All the “kids” are

Mikli. I then became head of sales at

growing up with social media these days

Oliver Peoples from 1999 to 2009.

and lots of things will happen there in the

Since Q4 of 2009 I’ve been representing

future. I like to post new glasses, upcoming

Barton Perreira. I’ve always worked for

trends and the like.

independent labels and when Oliver Peoples was sold to Luxottica, I instantly

Maybe your frequent social media

knew that it was time to look for some­

activities are due to the fact that you

thing else. Fortunately, I had already met

live in the town of Reilingen, right in the

up in 2007 to secure my future career

heart of Germany but also pretty much

with Bill Barton (CEO of Oliver Peoples

out in the sticks?

until 2006) and the former head of design at

No, that’s not true. I may reside in

Oliver Peoples, Patty Perreira.

Reilingen in the wonderful Rhein-Neckar What’s your current focus in our

region, but I’m not home that much. But

146

industry?

to understand that glasses, especially

Like I said, I represent Barton Perreira,

sunglasses, are a fashion accessory.

Moscot and Leisure Society for Baumvision in Germany, Switzerland and Austria.

You’ve spent many years working in

Through­out the years, I’ve been able

this industry. What does it take for an

to convince a great number of great,

eyewear label to become successful?

awesome customers of our products and

Persistence, passion, great designs, the best

every day I’m excited about their success

sales reps, outstanding quality, service,

as well as my own, and that of Bill and

flexibility, team spirit, lots of new items

Patty. On top of that, I became a partner in

every year and people who live and breathe

my friends’ company KBL Eyewear a few

this eyewear label.

years ago and my wife Silke handles their European distribution.

And what makes an optician successful?

A really successful optician is marked by a

What inspires you about your work?

focus on independent labels. There are so

My inspiration kicks in at 6:15 a.m. when I

many great glasses out on the market that

walk my dog and keeps going until 11 p.m. I

are not distributed by the large Italian

spend a lot of time thinking about my job

corporations. A successful optician also

and how to reach my goals. It’s also great

needs a great sales staff; employees who

to have customers ask to get my take on a

show up

sales floor make-over or new collections I

for work in a great mood, with a friendly and

recommend.

honest attitude. Service staff that’s focused on service, and will also offer customers

That sounds really positive. Is there anything that bothers you about the

some coffee or water, or a glass of champagne.

eyewear industry?

Nothing at all! But since you asked: A lot of people in this business have yet

What are the big eyewear trends about to pop in 2014?

Spreading the gospel of independent eyewear.

Thin-rimmed acetate frames, matted

attend any tradeshow without?

acetate frames and metal frames.

My iPad, iPhone, and favorite shirt.

And which style would you rather see

Any parting words of advice?

fade away?

Take it easy, because at the end of our lives

Frameless glasses... but they’re bound to

we are all the same. Whether you’re rich or

make a comeback in a few years, inevitably.

poor, all that’s left is a heap of ashes. And they don’t take credit cards in

Who is the most influential eyewear designer of all time?

heaven or in hell, so enjoy life to the fullest and keep your spirits up!

Alain Mikli!

What are the three things you won’t 148

MARK CAVENDISH_CROSSLINK A CT I V E P R E S C R I P T I O N C O L L E CT I O N ®

DISRUPTIVE BY DESIGN P E R F O RM A N C E F RA M E S R E V O L U T IO N IZ E T H E E V E RY D A Y

©2014 Oakley Icon | OAKLEY.COM

G-Star Raw »Sniper«

150

w h at yo u see ~ is w h at yo u get

by Mar tin Bauendahl

Escada »VES334«

Whiteout & Glare »Hamptons 7063 Springs«

Martin & Martin »Ingo«

152

Whiteout & Glare »Hamptons 7062 Mecox«

Kaviar Gauche x Brendel »903031«

154

Kaviar Gauche x Brendel »903032«

Blac »37BK«

156

Blac »35GR«

KBL »Northern Lights«

158

KBL »The Hamptons«

Ørgreen »Leon«

160 Photos: Martin Bauendahl | Photo Assistants: Maren Schabhüser & Peggy Stahnke Make-up: Chiho Schwarzer | Make-Up Assistant: Dennis Brandt Postproduction: Matthias Gabriel Models: Maria Dashkevich @ Louisa Models, Nicole Harrison @ Louisa Models, Felix Nagel @ Mega Models Thanks to Studio Briese Hamburg

THEA

IAPEToS

HYPERIoN

THEMIS

162

RHEA Photo: Raphael Schmitz

KRoNoS

oKEANoS

TETHYS

According to Greek mythology, titans are gigantic beings, God-like in their prowess but with a strong resemblance to humans. For their latest collection, eyewear label Whiteout & Glare took inspiration from the famous giants of lore by choosing eight titans as namesakes for their new models: Thea, Okeanos, Themis, kronos, Hyperion, Rhea, Tethys and Iapetos. These frames are understated and elegant in their design, replete with full titanium flex hinges and pure light acetate temples. The lenses fit easily thanks to an acute slot crafted into the rim itself. Since the beginning in 2005, Whiteout & Glare has been building a reputation for designing puristic, uncomplicated titanium frames that will stand the test of time regardless of changing fashion trends. The Titans collection is another major step in this direction.

Get ready to witness the battle of the Titans!

coLLection checK

bEllINGER aCe tate 2014 – MIDO COllEC TION based in denmark, design collective bellinger House is home to four eyewear labels, each with its own signature style and attitude: bellinger, bLaC, Kamaeleon and entourage of 7. as a common denominator, all four brands are representative of danish design at its best. eyeWear Magazine sat down with founder and creative director Claus bellinger diederichsen to get the story behind bellinger House and glasses such as the “rockit”, “Halo”, and “amanda”. please sum up the collection in just one

numbers. Later, we started naming them

sentence.

after what inspired us; animals, historic

Unique, fantastic color combinations with

persons, Danish design classics, architectural

the world-renowned Bellinger signature

buildings,

touch: Exciting acetate mixing and temple

always had a thing with the corny 80’s TV

grooves and cuttings.

series Dallas and Dynasty so this year’s

geographic

locations.

i’ve

Mido collection takes inspiration in the What inspired your very own glasses

characters on the two shows. The names,

collection?

that is. There’s nothing 80’s about the

Previously, we just gave our collections

designs.

164

FAllON: »A truly unique Bellinger acetate color combination. You can only love this one.«

CRYSTAl: »Perfect color blend between dark and light tones and the exciting, sculptural temple grooves.« HAlO: »Halo comes in a wealth of varieties. This one, incorporating red to the classic Havana color, adds even more excitement to the frame.«

AMANDA: »Fashionista shape with a girlie look. Embedded pinstripes give a holographic effect for added finesse.«

CO L L ECTION CHEC K

How many models are part of your new

posh color. This offers a neat look that blends

collection? And are there separate gender

classicism with playful colorama.

models or mostly unisex pieces?

In the Bellinger collection we introduced six

What is your personal favorite?

models at Opti and 18 at Mido. All tweaked

All of them! Well, if I absolutely must pick

into new, defining trends. Both gender

one, I’d say Crystal C.762. We expect a lot

specific models as well as unisex.

from the horizontal split front I just told you about. The combination of the dark tones on

Which materials did you play with during

the upper part fading into the light tones on

this collection?

the lower part is a look that’s really appealing

Acetate! We’re absolutely passionate about

to a lot of people.

acetate which allows us to truly express our love for colors. Our own unique acetate

And why?

mixes up to five different acetates layered

While our unique color combinations can

in each frame, which is what makes the

be described as the Bellinger DNA, our

Bellinger acetate frames absolutely unique.

Bellinger signature is the characteristic bevel and emboss shaping of the temples that has

And what are the most important color

earned us a place in many peoples’ heart.

themes in this collection?

The Crystal C.762 frame represents just that.

The overall theme of all Bellinger collections

Perfect color blend between dark and light

is colors and sculptural temples. You’ll never

tones and the exciting, sculptural temple

see a Bellinger frame with plain, straight

grooves.

temples. The new collection spans subtle, toned down, dark/conservative colors to

Which celebrity would you like to see wearing

the truly wild, extreme color combinations.

your favorite one?

Some of the styles have a characteristic

Bellinger is a tribute to powerful women

horizontal split front with the upper part

with a kick-ass drive, so Google’s vice

in a dark tone and the lower part in a fresh,

president of consumer products, Marissa

166

ROCkIT: »Classic tortoise style. This one mixes light and dark tortoise nuances for added edge.«

STRIkE: »Square shapes with softened corners give a stylish look. 3D fishbone temple cuts add a sporty look.«

SuNTOp: »Bellinger signature acetate: Horizontal split with classy upper calmness and lower playfulness.«

STING: »Male/unisex. As minimalistic as it gets under the Bellinger moniker. Still the playfulness shines through.«

coLLection checK

Mayer, would be a really cool person to

introducing the BLAC frames back in 2008.

associate the Bellinger brand with.

i was really hooked on Bell & Ross’ rough designs incorporating big screws as a crucial

What kind of people do you picture as

and very visual part of their designs. i also

wearers of „Halo“ and „Star“?

have a dream one day to design a car. ideally,

Brave, style-savvy women who aren’t afraid

a full carbon fiber body resembling the look

to express their inner colorfulness.

and feel of our BLAC frames and wild orange

Do you take inspiration from visiting optical tradeshows? If so, which are the main ones?

interior taking inspiration in our fiberglass colors.

Not at all! We’re only there to meet with

What separates bellinger from other

new and existing clients, partners and our

eyewear manufactures?

sales team.

Bellinger House is a design house offering four distinctively different eyewear brands

What inspires you in daily life – even outside

with their own unique DNA: Bellinger,

the optical industry?

BLAC, Kamaeleon and Entourage of 7. All

Family, nature, architecture, furniture,

four brands demonstrate Danish design at its

automotives, watches. Sunday mornings

best – from stylish contemporaries and color

walking the dog gets me in a relaxed

craziness to übercool high-end minimalism.

mindset and often inspiration flows in such

This gives us a wider reach in the eyewear

situations. inspiration never comes to me

industry as we’re not only amongst the

when forced.

leading brands within a single market, but cover several markets and styles.

Aside from eyewear, what else would you like What kind of styles will be making a splash

to design?

As

mentioned

before;

architecture,

this year?

watches.

if you asked me 10 years ago, i would easily

Actually, i initially planned to do a

have been able to pinpoint the top 10 sellers

carbon fiber wrist watch series along with

which would be almost identical across all

furniture,

automotives,

and

168

Halo: »Express your inner colorfulness.

Bellinger customize their own unique acetate color combinations that offer a neat and refreshed take on the classic retro shape.«

Star: »The horizontal split is Bellinger’s characteristic trademark. Front with upper part in a dark tone and lower part

markets. However, after we introduced the BLAC line in 2008 and incorporated Los Angeles based Entourage of 7 in 2012, things have become way more differentiated. However, as for the Bellinger collection specifically, our new crazy color acetates are definitely gonna be among our top sellers. And, if I may add, I expect our BLAC+ sunnies to go big this season with their extremely cool blinkers style wings truly demonstrating today’s amazing state of the art 3D printing.

in a posh green/yellow contrast.«

Lef t: Dress: Badgley Mischka / Earrings & Hairband: Stylist’s own Right: Jacket: Hati-Hati

Reiz »Sturm«

170

170

by Christine Lipski

oakley »enduro«

Latex Knit Pullover : Lüllepop Design / StingBra: Stylist’s own / Pants: Hati-Hati

G-Star »fat Wilton«

172

Skir t & Shir t: Hati-Hati / Necklace: Lüllepop Design / Ear Cuff : Stylist’s own

götti »kojak«

Dress & Jacket: Chanel / Necklace , Bracelets & Knuckle Rings: Chanel / Belt: Stylist`s own

etnia Barcelona Âťafrica 01ÂŤ

174

Lef t: Blouse: Hati-Hati / Belt: Stylist’s own Mid: Dress: Glaw Berlin / Bow Tie: Stylist’s own Right: Leather Jacket & Skir t: Escada / Shoulder Piece: Stylist’s own

Glasses from left to right: Barton Perreira »Rainey« Rebecca Minkoff »türkis« Barton Perreira »Shirelle«

J.f.Rey »nautilus«

176

Lef t: Dress: R alph Lauren / Scar f & Ring : Stylist’s own Right: Knit-Cardigan: R alph Lauren / Earrings: Stylist’s own

invu »t2401 B«

Vest & Latex Gloves: Lüllepop Design / Skir t: Glaw

l.G.R »Reunion«

178

Dress & Necklace: Escada / Biker Gloves: Röckl / Belt: Stylist’s own

Cazal »leo«

180 MODELS: Fiona R. @ Model Management, Marlen N. @Modelwerk, Nadja @ Muga Modelmanagement

PHOTOS: Christine Lipski – christinelipski.com STYLiNG : Janina Cüpper – 21 Agency Düsseldorf HAiR & MAKE-UP: Yasmin Farman & Stephanie Zernikow ASSiSTANT: Radaslaw Polgesek & Laura Müller POSTPRODUCTiON: Anne Zimny – annezimny.daportfolio.com

Dress , Necklace & Wristband: Chanel Earrings: Stylist’s own

Saschee Schuster »Gertrude«

SKY EYES: SKSUGIToN

MoSCoT: GoVERNoR

PAUL FRANK: CRYSTAL CoRRIDoRS

BLacK eyeD pieces

Cazal: 8014

Leisure Society: Rodrigues

G-star Raw: Fat Dexter

While working on this issue, everyone on the team was ready for the dreary winter to be over by the time this magazine releases. Otherwise, most of the content in this issue would practically be rendered irrelevant. Especially the six shades hand-picked for this edition’s Material World, provided by Cazal, G-Star, Leisure Society, Moscot, Paul Frank and Sky Eyes. There’s a common pattern emerging here; dark frames with small, carefully chosen details and flashes that will set the tone this summer. Looks like it’s working: Just in time for wrapping up this issue, it seems like summer has finally arrived. Let’s hope it’s here to stay!

r e tA i L P r o f i L e

Da R MS ta Dt / one loV e Optician and store owner Akram Husseini is a well-known staple of the German eyewear scene. With a reputation for distinctive tastes and an uncompromising eye for craftsmanship, Husseini likes to showcase at his store a tight selection of brands that can live up to his high standards. And when it for his customers, the optician based in the town of Darmstadt, Germany, goes the extra mile to ensure the per fect match between eyewear and personality.

EYEWEAR Magazine dropped by to see Husseini’s personal approach in action.

184

Photos: Stefan Dongus

comes to finding the right pair of frames

r e tA i L P r o f i L e

hello Akram! Spending time with you

optician, there weren’t that many options

outside your store is like that movie

to leave town, so my wanderlust gradually

“The Truman Show”. It seems everyone

subsided. And many of my friends had

around here knows you and stops by to

already moved to Berlin, Hamburg and

say hello. how come?

so on, so it was easy to get away for

(Laughs) Yes, our street is kind of like

a weekend whenever i got stir-crazy.

that. Everyone knows and appreciates one

At one point, i did end up leaving for a

another. i love Darmstadt and have been

year to get my master’s certificate from

living here since i was born. This is where

the Zentralverband der Augenoptiker

i went to school and grew up. i was always

(German central association of opticians)

out and about, rather than sitting behind

in Dormagen near Cologne. That was a

a desk. Everything in my life revolves

cool period, especially getting out of the

around this town. My family, my friends

hamster wheel for an entire year after all

– they’re all here. And so is my store. One

this time in the store. i came back refreshed,

Love!

with lots of new industry contacts and tons of know-how.

One Love for Darmstadt? Were you never tempted to move anywhere else?

how in the world does a guy like you end

Yes, quite heavily tempted, actually.

up as an optician?

Once i finished school barely scraping by,

That’s easy: i’ve been wearing glasses

all i wanted to do was leave Darmstadt.

ever since i was seven years old. And

But then came my alternative civilian

since i’ve always been into sports and was

service [instead of being drafted to the

always kind of a wild one, my spectacles

German army] and i moved in with

were practically broken all the time.

some

mellowed

in my prime, i would end up at the

out the situation somewhat. When i

optician’s store twice a week with a

started training to become a licensed

wrecked pair. My parents also both wear

roommates.

That

186

Some glasses are on display, while the majority is part of the store’s “hidden” inventory.

glasses and have always been frequenting

was super cool and at one point, they let

the best optician in town. So at an early

me into the work-shop so i could watch

age, i became privy to eyewear by brands

the opticians put my wrecked glasses back

such as Optical Affairs, Alain Mikli, Theo,

together. That was kind of fascinating.

L.A. Eyeworks etc. Right from the start,

When it was time to do my mandatory job

my parents instilled a sense in me that a

internship in school, i went and interned at

pair of glasses is much, much more than

the store. Once i was finished, the owner

just visual aid. The team at the old store

asked me if i would consider training as

r e tA i L P r o f i L e

an optician one day. But since i wanted to

for eyewear to others. By now we also

stay in school [until 13th grade] to get my

have some customers who keep up to date

Abitur (general qualification for university

on what’s happening in the industry

entrance), i passed on the opportunity.

and some even know about releases

But we kept in touch and after finishing

sometimes, that i’ve barely even heard

school and civil service, i applied for an

of. But those are exceptional customers.

apprenticeship. And they hired me right

Most people need solid assistance and a

away.

trained eye to help them make the right eyewear purchase. it’s also key not to

What’s the most appealing part of your

overwhelm the customers, but keeping

job?

your entire selection in mind and

Of course it’s always great to know that

knowing about the features of each pair

your customers are able to see better than

of frames. What is the nose bridge shaped

before, thanks to their glasses. But i’ve

like? Are the temples tight-fitting? That’s

always thought that was fundamental,

how you can narrow it down to a manage-

otherwise we wouldn’t have to be doing

able selection to help customers make the

our job. That’s why we became opticians.

right choice, and make it quickly.

Nowadays it’s more important to me to offer customers comprehensive guidance

Are there some necessary evils of the

and service. it’s the best feeling to meet a

job?

customer at the grocery store a year later,

Without a doubt, working on saturdays! it’s

thinking to yourself what an epic piece of

still annoying to me, even after 15 years.

eyewear we chose together. When it just looks stunning!

What are some important aspects of

What i’m trying to say is: i’m involved

your craft?

with eyewear all day long, and the best part

To me it’s important that customers get the

about it is being able to pass on this passion

sense that they’re entering an authentic

188

store, where we offer a different kind of service and selection of glasses than many other shops. And that we can take our time to help them get what they need.

What’s the distinctive feature of your store?

We’re running a “closed inventory system”, meaning that only 5% of our eyewear stock are displayed openly.

So your focus is on personal service?

Yes, personal counseling is our core philosophy. Thanks to the relatively limited number of items on display, there is hardly any self-service. But of course everyone is free to try on anything they like. Glasses are made for wearing, we’re not a porcelain store. Still, I’m convinced that customers can trust our opinion and what we pick out for them. We know our glasses and their special features.

That helps avoid disappointments when customers try things on and together we can find the right pair much quicker.

Although once you let the customer try on more than ten pairs of glasses, he just

our photo models usually don’t get to flash smiles, but we’ll make an exception for Akram.

»AT THIS POINT, WE DON’T HAVE A SINGLE LICENSED PRODUCT IN OUR STORE ANYMORE. EVERY EYEWEAR LABEL HAS ITS OWN LITTLE STORY, WHICH WE LIKE TO PASS ON TO OUR CUSTOMERS.« 190

ends up utterly clueless. So you have to

what’s the distinct appeal of your store?

narrow it down to three to eight pairs.

We’re dedicated to offering the full scope

With a focused selection, customers are

of traditional optician services, from

free to listen to their heart.

glasses all the way to fitted contact lenses.

What’s your main focus with Klar Augenoptik?

At this point, we don’t have a single licensed product in our store anymore.

Every eyewear label has its own little story, which we like to pass on to our customers. We cultivate friendships with most of our brands and that’s what we like to communicate. Our

But maybe dressed up in a more youthful package, not so much the antiquated image of the optician’s trade from years ago. I consider my store to be at the crossroads between a fashion boutique and an optical store. Everyone is free to be who they are here, no need for false pretense. That’s how we do it. Clear glasses, clear service and clear interior design – no gimmicks.

customers can be assured that once we

What types of customers frequent your

decide on offering a certain collection,

store?

they can trust that we stand behind our

We get all kinds of customers these days,

products. And keeping things 100%

which keeps things interesting. We have

professional at the eyewear store is also

students, lawyers, blue collar workers,

a major focus for me. This is where my

bankers, academics and pensioners. What

traditional training in one of the best

they all have in common is that they are

stores around comes into play. There’s

looking for a pair of quality glasses that

nothing worse than running a small store

nobody else is wearing. They come and find

like ours with no sense of organization

us in our location a bit outside the heart of

and professionalism.

downtown to get their new glasses. We’re getting lots of attention. And it’s because

Next to keeping it neat and quality,

we offer no mainstream glasses!

RET A I L P ROFI L E

How are you finding new customers and

entire store design. I draw the line at small

retaining them?

plexiglass blocks. And along the glasses

Since we opened the store, we’ve been

displays, we’re presen­ting small picture

running a series of print ads in magazines

frames from the flea market, in which

here in Darmstadt. And we’re quite heavily

I’ve put down some personal thoughts

involved with our Facebook page, as well

about each brand in my best handwriting.

as sponsoring parties and hosting our

That’s it.

own store parties two to three times per year. This year, we want to create our

What are some of your brands and the

first lookbook and collaborate with some

reason for carrying them?

eyewear labels here and there.

Okay, here’s a small excerpt: Garret Leight – perfectly represents the

So your outside presentation is rather

current retro trend.

intense and visual, but the actual store

Masunaga – Japanese perfection.

display is rather understated. How

Reiz – puristic, but with lots of passion for

come?

eyewear.

Displaying labels and logos in our store is

Mykita Mylon – for the tech crowd.

not my thing, even if I had the space to do

L.G.R. – Italian loftiness, feels like being

it. Glasses can shine with their design and

on a sailboat.

form language much better if there aren’t

Thierry Lasry – “Bling bling” with the

names and logos plastered everywhere.

most exciting acetate colorways on the

I don’t want to run my store like the Las

market.

Vegas Strip. Plus, our customers don’t care

Lunettes Kollektion – feels like summertime

about labels. Branded displays really only

in Berlin.

make sense if you’re trying to promote

Retrosuperfuture – their name is their

certain fashion brands, which we are not.

concept. And many, many more…

And I also think these things can ruin the

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RET A I L P ROFI L E

Which style is trending right now? And

Are you willing to share your three

what will be next?

favorite brands with us?

Definitely retro, for sure! But meanwhile,

When it comes to sneakers: Nike, Asics

all the frames are getting much thinner

and New Balance.

and elegant silhouettes than in previous years. The colors have also become lighter

Haha, maybe we can set you up with

and sometimes matted. More people are

our partner publication, SNEAKERS

asking about metal frames. I think that

Magazine. Thanks for the interview.

in the long run, we’ll be seeing a healthy mix and plastics won’t be as dominant anymore. Avant-garde optical products are in higher demand, but not at our store.

That’s just not me.

It’s all about keeping it subtle: Instead of littering the store with POS materials, brand presentation is limited to small Plexiglas displays and hand-written intros.

194

facebook.com/adrianmarwitzeyewear adrianmarwitz.com

Photo: Raphael Schmitz

7 GrAMS

MARKUS T SUN / M2.644

7 grams of chocolate are good for your heart. crafting eyewear frames with intelligent A heaping table spoon contains about 7 technologies since 1999. Pieces like the grams of coffee and a frozen pizza pie usually model M100822 are crafted from titanium has 7 grams of salt. The list goes on and on... with delicate wire temples. in lieu of bolts Another noteworthy mention would be and screws, the frame relies on an intelligent upscale designer glasses that weigh a mere clamping solution in the mid-section, paired 7 grams. The man behind this breakthrough with Markus T’s proprietary hinges. 7 grams is Markus Temming. The designer has been of utmost precision and coherence.

196

w w w. m a k e l l o s - p o t s d a m . d e

Gesicht: Henrike Brille: Sophie Charlotte Limitierte Sonderserie – Handgefertigt in Deutschland

LEF T Jacket: Kookai Paris Pants: ihear t RIGHT Shir t: H&M

Barton Perreira »Truman«

Strenesse »STS26«

198

–ThE NEW–

BY ANDRE A S ANDÉ

Kilsgaard »mod. 63.8«

200

Shir t: P&C

Blac »48«

LEF T Shir t: Reversa Gouni RIGHT Shir t: Vintage makellos »ME5011«

202

Ralph Lauren »RL8112«

Coblens »Stauende«

204

LEF T

Shirt: iheart | Pants: Cheap Monday RIGHT Dress: Glamorous P&C

Fleye »Molli«

LEF T Body: American Apparel RIGHT Pullover : Vintage

Reiz »Eiche«

206

Photos: Andras Andé – www.ap-photography.net | Styling & Set : Rolf Buck | Hair & Make-Up : Kerry J. Hajdu Models : Marcus @Indeed Models, Luis @Indeed Models, Bianca @ Spin Models, Anna Louisa @No Toys, Kirsten und Alex @Aquamarine

götti »August«

208

Maybach »The Patron I«

Maybach »The Majesty III«

Swimwear : La Perla | Necklaces: Asos Swimwear : Calvin Klein | Necklace & Bracelet: Strawberr y & Cream

Left Swimwear : Versace Beachwear | Bracelet: Asos Right Swimwear : Versace Beachwear | Rings: Asos

Serengeti »Brera«

Serengeti »Verdi«

210

Swimwear : Versace Beachwear | Necklace: Strawberr y & Cream

Serengeti »Verdi«

Swimwear : Lisa Marie Fernandez

MercedesBenz Style »MBS 5025«

212

Swimwear : Shimmi | Rings: Pippa & Jean

MercedesBenz Style »MBS 1038«

Swimwear : Orlebar Brown | Necklace: Vintage

Esprit »ET17824«

214

Swimwear : American Apparel | Bracelet: Vintage

Esprit »ET17819«

coblens »Pinkelpause«

216

Swimwear : Versace Beachwear | Ring : Vintage

Swimwear : La Perla | Bracelet: Emilio Pucci

Miu Miu »Smu52P«

Strenesse »STS17«

218

Photographer: Reno Mezger (www.reno-mezger.de) | Styling: Séraphine de Lima (Bigoudi) | Hair: Anja Fichtenmayer (Bigoudi) Make-Up: Rebecca J. Herrmann (Liganord) Photo Assistant: Jura Germanyuk | Models: Larissa (Spin Model Management), Kristin (Modelwerk) | Location: Sonnenstudio 75 in Hamburg/Rahlstedt www.sonnenstudio75.de

Swimwear : Lisa Marie Fernandez | Ring : Asos | Bracelet: Vintage

„Mercedes-Benz“ is subject to intellectual property protection owned by Daimler AG. It is used by Rodenstock under license.

K aviar Gauche X Brendel 906043

Photo: Ralph Schmitz

K aviar Gauche X Brendel 906041

K aviar Gauche X Brendel 90604 2

RET A I L P ROFI L E

K av i a r G au c h e X Brendel Award-winning designers Kaviar Gauche from

and impresive. Now the two designers behind

Berlin have built a reputation for their trademark

Kaviar Gauche are applying their concept to

style: Combining fragile materials with tough

eyewear in a collabo with of-the-moment label

details. Their dresses are highly coveted designer

Brendel. The glasses are crafted from high-quality

items, especially the wedding gowns; lofty

polymers in tender Kaviar Gauche colorways

satin dresses adorned with rough metal belts,

such as light rosewood and olive, combined with

laser-cut patterns and bold metal chains. The

metal accents like copper, gold and rosĂŠ gold.

resulting look is a blend of opposites, equally

Our Collab of the Issue, sweet as wedding cake.

frail and feminine and at the same time strong

We want more!

221

Photo: Raphael Schmitz

finiShinG

r AY- B A n urBan camouflagE Over the past few years, camouflage patterns have been on the sidelines of popular sunglasses colorways. But no more hiding in the bushes – the time for camo is finally here! Ray Ban is leading the charge with a collection of classic Wayfarer frames in five(!) different camouflage patterns. For an extra level of metropolitan cool, the temples on the Urban Camouflage collection have been coated with fabric. Ray Ban says “Never hide”, but if you want to lay low for a bit, these Wayfarers have you covered.

R a y - b a n R b 2 14 0

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C h a r m a n t G m b h E u r o p E C h a r m a n t. d E , t E l E f o n : 0 8 1 3 1 - 3 8 2 8 0 | E t 1 7 8 1 9 - 5 6 5

EDITOR S CHOICE

Photo: Raphael Schmitz

Etnia Barcelona »Africa 02«

This summer, all eyes are on Africa: Cape Town won the bid to become the World Design Capital 2014, while jungle colors and animal prints are emerging as style favorites among style-

Etnia Barcelona

savvy urbanites around the world. Eyewear brand Etnia Barcelona is dedicating an entire collection to the continent, donating two percent of all proceeds to charitable organization Africa Rising. Hear the roar of this issue’s Editor’s Choice, the “Africa 02”

W i l d lov e i n A f r i ca

model. Rrrrrhhhhhaaaahh!

224

Be yonD the sea

FLEYE »LUAN«

bY ORION DAHlMANN 226

WHITEoUT & GLARE »7027 THYRISToR«

ENToURAGE oF 7 »MoRGAN«

228

MAKELLoS »ME 5005«

METRoPoLITAN »8220«

230

I-SPAX »BRUTUS 58«

REIZ »EMS«

232

eye

society EYEWEAR

tinpal handmade germany

Brillenfassungen

Photo: Stefan Dongus Models: Dana Söhngen & Max Lindenlaub

IC! BERLIN »GÜNTHER N.«

SEE WhAT’ S NE X T, NEVER MISS AN ISSUE

sUBs c r iBe t o e y e W e a r M aG a Zine Never miss out on what’s next, always be the first to know. Your subscription to eYeweAr – the Visual Magazine brings the whole wide world of eyewear right to your doorstep. Subscribers will receive every new issue shipped to their mailbox, fresh off the press and neatly packaged. Subscribing to eYeweAr Magazine is like a real-life rSS-feed of everything new and exciting from the world’s leading brands and designers. And for opticians, eYeweAr offers special packages with multiple magazines. Plus, our Premium Partners can customize their issues with their own logo, creating an upscale gift for their customers. Find out about all our customization and partner options at eyewear-magazine.com. And please feel free to direct all inquiries to presse@eyewear-magazine.com.

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