Sneakers Magazine Issue 22

D& AT: EUR 6 | CH: CHF 9

Nr 22 – 2/2014

Modern s City Serie adidas EQT Running Suppor t

Rock ’n’ Roll Tennis Agassi & Nike Retrospective Heat on Feet Contest The ASICS Edition The ZX Saga Continues Jacques Chassaing Speaks

LIVING OFF THE WALL: A VANS DOCUMENTARY SERIES UPSTARTS

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DOCUMENTARIAN:

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Š 2014 adidas AG. adidas,the the Trefoil Trefoil logo andand the 3-Stripes mark are mark registered of the adidas Group. of the adidas Group. Š 2013 adidas AG. adidas, logo the 3-Stripes aretrademarks registered trademarks

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Editorial

SNEAKERS 2/2014

Culture Counts Shortly before the deadline for this April issue, we received a call from Herzogenaurach with an offer to interview one of the longest-serving adidas designers, Jacques Chassaing. Given his history of legen­dary sneaker designs such as the ZX 500 and his involvement in the Equipment story, it was a no-brainer. One week later, I sat down in his office and listened to his incredible anecdotes – which you can of course read in this very magazine.

Photo: Holger von Krosigk

Editorial

Interestingly enough, Jacques also

He was part of the team that initiated the

mentioned that he’s been a regular

ZX saga and helped develop both the Torsion

subscriber to our magazine for quite some

technology and the EQT classics we all love.

time now. And to my surprise, his main

Although his focus has changed, he’s still

interest was to read something about the

involved in the same com­-pany since 1981.

people behind the products. Without this

He was there when all these shoes were

human side, he explained in the interview,

designed as technologically driven sports

shoes are not much more than plastic and

equipment – and he’s still here, witnessing

leather. And we couldn’t agree more. As

the adaption of original styles and even

we’ve said time and again, without the

their transformation into lifestyle concepts

cultural context and background, it all

such as ZX Flux. People like Jacques enab-

amounts to nothing but material. It’s like

le us to see some continuity in this barrage

a book – you must be able to read first.

of new releases; they show us some sense of direction.

Jacques Chassaing is the best example for his own statement. Among

And finally, Mr. Chassaing shows just how

other things, it’s people like him that give

amazingly interesting our favorite subject

meaning to these shoes. In 33 years of

is. When we speak about sneakers, we

working for adidas, he’s seen it all. Having

don’t mean plastic and leather. We mean

started at a time when “jogging” was the

sports, design, art, business and most

preferred term for “running”, he was part

of all, people – real people from the real

of a small team that made “adidas France”

world. Culture counts.

immortal, with shoes like the Forum, the Lendl, the collaboration with RUN DMC and of course the ZX 500.

SNEAKERS 2/2014

Holger von Krosigk

MADE IN ENGLAND CRAFTSMANSHIP FLIMBY

Cover Story

D

ie legendäre City Serie ist einer der wichtigsten Bausteine in der Sneakergeschichte von adidas.

Die Casual-Bewegung in England, die nicht nur die 80er Jahre, sondern einen ganzen Style geprägt hat, wäre undenkbar ohne diese Schuhe. Sie waren eine farblich dezente und geschmackvolle Hommage an die großen Sportstädte dieser Welt – eine Tradition, die selbstverständlich nicht aufhört.

2014 geht die „Modern City Series“ mit EQT Running Support Styles ins Rennen. Im ersten Pack sind, wie hier abgebildet, Copenhagen und Rio de Janeiro mit jeweils gelb und rot dran. Es folgt ein zweites Pack mit Tokyo in all-blue und Berlin in all-white. Wir feiern nicht nur das Modell, sondern auch die Tatsache, dass solche Traditionen bei adidas gebührend fortgeführt werden.

SNEAKERS 2/2014

AdidAs EQT EQT

C C ii tt y y SS ee r r ii ee ss –– P Pa ar r tt o on n ee

Close Up

NikE AiR RAiD 2014 Text: Ernie Beckmann

SNEAKERS 2/2014

Close Up

SNEAKERS 2/2014

Im 1992 erschienenen Film „White Men

Eine Air-Unit in der Mittelsohle

Can’t Jump“ bestaunte Hollywood die

liefert die nötige Dämpfung auf dem

zugegebenermaßen beschränkten Street-

Feld. Ein nettes Detail von damals ist der

ball-Künste von Wesley Snipes und Woody

Hinweis im Heel-Bereich und auf der

Harrelson. Im selben Jahr bestaunten aber

extrem griffigen Außensohle:

auch erstmals all diejenigen, die das

„FOR OUTDOOR USE ONLY“.

orange Leder regel­mäßig zum Zocken auf dem Asphalt in die Hand nahmen, einen

Der Schuh ist aber sicher nicht als reiner

von Designlegende Tinker Hatfield eigens

Performance Schuh anzusehen, den man

für Streetball konzipierten Sneaker – den

nur auf Outdoor Courts zu Gesicht be-

Nike Air Raid. 2014 feiert der Schuh, hier

kommt. Sein 90er Jahre Charme passt

mit einem Materialmix aus Leder und

genau zum Zeitgeist und wird den Nike

Mesh, ein erneutes Comeback. Auf den

Air Raid sicher auch an die Füße vieler

Bildern sehen wir den originalen

Aficionados bringen, die sich nicht dem

Black/Flint Grey/White Colorway, so wie er

liebsten Spielgerät von Wesley und

1992 erstmals auf den Markt kam. Einige

Woody verschrieben haben.

weitere Farb­wege des robusten OutdoorKlassikers werden wir im Verlauf dieses Jahres auch noch sehen. Interessant ist sicherlich, dass der Schuh ohne jeden Swoosh auskommt. Lediglich ein kleiner „Nike“ Schriftzug ist am Air Raid zu finden.

Die signifikant über dem Spann gekreuzten Straps optimieren die Passform und bieten Halt auf dem Court.

Retro Running

Diadora T i ta n

D

iese Perle aus dem Archiv von Diadora hat echte Running-History vorzuweisen.

Als „Seb Impact“ wurde er in den 80er Jahren dem damaligen Mittelstreckenläufer Sebastian Coe gewidmet, der nicht nur ganze elf Weltrekorde aufstellte, sondern auch bei zwei aufeinanderfolgenden Olymp­ischen Spielen, 1980 und 1984, Gold auf 1500 Meter holte. Als waschechter Baron und Mitglied des House of Lords darf Seb Coe nun Lord Newbold Coe genannt werden. Sein da­maliger Runner, den man als „terrace classic“ bezeichnen darf, hat ebenfalls den Schritt in die Gegenwart geschafft und kommt als „Titan“ mit leichten Updates 2014 wieder auf den Markt. Wir freuen uns über das Come­back solcher Klassiker von Diadora.

SNEAKERS 2/2014

Interview

SNEAKERS 2/2014

N i k e ata Thompson Brand Ambassador for Reebok

Spätestens seit dem Track „Klicka Klacka“ mit Samy Deluxe assoziiert man das Bewegungs- und Begeist­e­rungswunder mit der Fitnessmarke.

Jetzt ist die Zusammenarbeit offiziell: Nikeata Thompson ist Marken­ botschafterin für Reebok. Als solche repräsentiert die Tänzerin und Choreografin die Segmente Fitness und Classics. Passend dazu ist sie eine der Jurorinnen bei Reeboks Suche nach dem „Real World Athlete 2014“. Hier können sich alle, die sich für fit halten, über ein Foto oder Video bewerben – #REALWORLDATHLETES! Und weil Nikeatas Werdegang schon immer stark von Sneakern beeinflusst war, haben wir die Berlinerin zu einem kleinen Sneakertalk getroffen.

Fotos: Holger von Krosigk

Interview

Welche Rolle spielen Sneaker in

Was muss ein Schuh können, damit man

deinem Leben?

gut darin tanzen kann?

Sneaker begleiten mich schon mein gan-

Am liebsten trage ich Sneaker mit flachen

zes Leben, ich war als Kind auch schon

Sohlen. Sie müssen vor allem bequem sein.

ein absoluter Sneakerträger, ein Tomboy

Und für mich ist die Optik auch wichtig.

halt. Durch meine sportliche Karriere als

Ich verliebe mich sehr gerne in Sneaker.

Leichtathletin bei Bayer Leverkusen habe ich Tag und Nacht Sneaker getragen und

Unterscheidet sich dein Schuh Style auf der

durch meine jetzige Berufung als

Straße von dem beim Tanzen?

Choreografin sind sie ein ständiger

Ich trage alles, wie es gerade passt, einen

Begleiter in meinem beruflichen sowie

Schuh den ich auf der Straße trage, sollte

privatem Leben geworden.

genauso bequem sein, wie der Schuh, den ich auf der Bühne trage. Was diesen Punkt angeht, mache ich KEINE Kompromisse.

SNEAKERS 2/2014

Du hast ja beim Shooting den Freestyle Hi angehabt – was magst du an dem Schuh?

Der Schuh ist extrem klassisch und passt meiner Meinung nach zu allem. Über die Bequemlichkeit muss ich ja nicht noch Du arbeitest ja schon eine Weile mit

einmal sprechen, oder?

Reebok zusammen, der Track mit Samy Deluxe stand ja bereits im Zusammenhang

Drei Alltime Reebok Faves?

mit dem Flex Racer. Wie ist die Collabo mit

Classic Leather in weiß, Flex Racer und

Reebok eigentlich zustande gekommen?

Pump.

Sie haben damals nach einer weiblichen Künstlerin gesucht und bei dem Meeting

Was erwartet uns 2014 alles von Nikeata

hat mich Samy vorgeschlagen. Ich war

Thompson?

ganz aus dem Häuschen. Der Dreh mit

Ich betitele jedes neue Jahr mit einem

ihm hat mir großen Spaß gemacht und

Motto. 2014 lautet das Motto „Spaßjahr“

die Umsetzung war grandios.

und ich hoffe, ich kann mit meinen Fans / Kollegen / Auftraggebern / Familie / Freun-

Was sind deine frühesten Reebok Erinnerungen? Hattest du diesen Aerobic Trend noch mitbekommen oder war der vor deiner Zeit?

Na klar hab ich den mitbekommen, nur konnte ich ihn mir als kleines Mädchen in England noch nicht leisten. Damals haben wirklich ALLE Reebok getragen, das Trend-Accessoire schlechthin, und ich wollte unbedingt dazugehören... Naja, jetzt hab ich ein paar zu Hause ...

den eine Menge Spaß haben. Let’s GO!

aFEw aFE FEw w 5 YEARS AFEW

DÜSSELDORF STORE

SNEAKERS 2/2014

Der afew Store aus Düsseldorf gehört zu den wenigen deutschen Stores, die es geschafft haben, sich auch außerhalb der Republik einen Namen zu machen.

Bereits seit 2009 versorgen die Biergen Bros ihr internationales Publikum mit feinster Turnschuhkost – und das mit großem Erfolg. Anlässlich ihres 5-jährigen Jubiläums haben wir den Jungs einen Besuch abgestattet, um über ihre Store-History zu sprechen, und natürlich auch um einen Blick in die afew Zukunft zu werfen …

Interview: Heiko Lanzke Fotos: Holger von Krosigk

» Für unser 5-Jähriges wollten wir uns etwas Besonderes einfallen lassen … «

Hi Jungs, für alle, die euch noch nicht kennen, stellt euch doch nochmal vor – wer und was ist Afew?

Der Afew-Store ist Teil unseres Projektes „Afew Good Things“ und wir – also mein Bruder Andy und ich (Marco) – betreiben den Laden hier in Düsseldorf zusammen mit unserem neuen Wachhund & CEO Oscar.

Glückwunsch zum ersten attraktiven Afew Mitglied! Was hat sich denn seit unserem letzten Besuch vor zwei Jahren getan?

Haha … eigentlich nicht viel, wir verkaufen immer noch Turnschuhe und probieren,

eine gute Zeit zu haben. Was sich aber „ein wenig“ verändert hat, ist das allgemeine Interesse an Turnschuhen. War es früher noch ein überschaubarer Kreis an Leuten, die sich regelmäßig mit Turnschuhenauseinander gesetzt haben, so ist das Thema heute zum richtigen Trend geworden. Selbst die Kids in der Grundschule wissen schon, wann der nächste Release ansteht.

Für euch ist diese Entwicklung doch sicherlich positiv. Hat sich mit der steigenden Nachfrage auch etwas im Store verändert?

An der Basis hat sich nicht viel getan, unser Team ist allerdings ein wenig gewachsen.

Am Anfang waren wir zu zweit, mittlerweile haben wir ein fast zehnköpfiges Team, ohne das es gar nicht mehr möglich wäre. Zudem haben wir in den letzten Jahren hier einiges umstrukturiert und Arbeitsabläufe verbessert.

SNEAKERS 2/2014

Was macht den Store aus? Was ist euch

Ihr feiert dieses Jahr euer 5-jähriges Be-

besonders wichtig?

stehen. Glückwunsch auch nochmal dazu!

Was den Store besonders macht, ist unter

Was hat sich in diesen Jahren für euch per-

anderem die Tatsache, dass es ein Fami-

sönlich verändert?

lienunternehmen ist. Wir versuchen, das

Danke, Heiko! Ja, auf jeden Fall hat sich in

Ganze auch sehr familiär zu halten. Sowohl

den fünf Jahren etwas verändert. Nachdem

mit unseren Mitarbeitern als auch mit

wir die ersten Jahre fast regelmäßig 7-Tage-

den Kunden. Außerdem legen wir

Arbeitswochen hatten, haben wir den Store

besonders großen Wert darauf, mehr als

mittlerweile so etabliert, dass wir uns auch

nur ein „Schuhgeschäft“ zu sein. Uns ist es

mehr um private Dinge kümmern können.

wichtig, immer wieder neue Projekte und

Wodurch wir zum einen deutlich entspann-

Events auf die Beine zu stellen, damit es

ter sind und auch den Kopf frei haben, um

nicht langweilig wird.

neue interessante Projekte in Angriff zu nehmen.

Das stimmt. Ihr wirkt in letzter Zeit wirk-

An das Vintage/Deadstock Event

lich sehr viel entspannter.

erinnere ich mich auch noch gerne zurück.

Auf jeden Fall, früher hatten wir nur die Ar-

Und allgemein, was sagt über die Entwick-

beit beziehungsweise den Store im Kopf. An

lung der Sneakerszene in dieser Zeit?

dieser Stelle auch nochmal vielen Dank an

Mittlerweile hat man sich an den Boom

unser Team: Benny, Jörg, Yves, Issam, Lilly,

schon wieder ein wenig ge­wöhnt, aber am

Osman, Andre, Saibo und natür­lich Oscar,

Anfang war es echt krass zu sehen, wie auf

die ihren Job super machen, uns viel Arbeit

einmal immer mehr Leute auf den Zug auf-

abnehmen und damit die Zeit für private

gesprungen sind. Bestes Beispiel ist

Geschichten ermöglichen.

natürlich der Air Max 1, der vom gut gehüteten Liebhabermodell innerhalb von

Und was waren die Highlights der letzten

eineinhalb Jahren zum Massenprodukt

fünf Jahre?

wurde. Wir als Store können uns nicht über

Zu unseren persönlichen Highlights zählen

den Boom beschweren, aber sehen es auch

auf jeden Fall die Events, die im Vorhinein

mit gemischten Gefühlen und sind

echt immer viel Arbeit waren, aber sich so-

gespannt, wo die Reise hingeht.

wohl für den Store als auch für uns persönlich immer gelohnt haben. Speziell

Wie wird es sich weiter entwickeln und

das Afew-Vintage Weekend, die MAX100

was wird den Unterschied machen?

Book Release Party sowie natürlich die

Jetzt, wo gefühlt jede Woche ein neuer

Japantag Events mit Onitsuka Tiger sind

Schuh herauskommt und ein neuer Store

unsere persönlichen Highlights. Durch die

aufmacht, wird Qualität und Individualität

Entwicklung und Umsetzung haben wir

den Unterschied machen. Die Leute werden

selber echt viel dazugelernt und super viele

bei diesem Überangebot anfangen wieder

interessante und kreative Leute kennenge-

mehr auf die Details zu achten und gezielter

lernt und oftmals als neue Freunde dazu

auswählen.

gewonnen.

SNEAKERS 2/2014

Ihr seid ja in Düsseldorf ziemlich gut ver-

haben uns daher mit Matt Stevens, dem

netzt – wie würdet ihr die Schuhszene in der

Mann hinter dem MAX100 Projekt, zusam-

Stadt beschreiben?

mengetan. Für den Release des Buches

Die Düsseldorfer Schuhszene ist an sich sehr

hatten wir ja schon mit ihm zusammen­-

entspannt. Die Leute sind hier sehr aufge-

gearbeitet, daher wollten wir das zum

schlossen und positiv. Der Fokus der meisten

Jubiläum noch mal tun. Das Logo ist

liegt im Moment, wie in der restlichen Nation

inspiriert vom Düsseldorfer Wappen und

wahrscheinlich auch, auf Running-Silhouetten.

soll das vereinen von zwei Individuen zu

Wir haben allerdings auch einen Kern

einem großen Projekt symbolisieren.

an Stammkunden, die sich überwiegend für Basketballschuhe aus den 80er und 90er Jah-

Jup, hat er gut hinbekommen. Ihr seid be-

ren sowie aktuelle Performance Modelle inte-

kannt für ausgelassene Events. Da ist doch

ressieren. Hier im Store trifft man ansonsten

bestimmt was in Planung zu eurem Jubiläum,

sowohl informierte Kunden, die sich für limi-

oder?

tierte und besondere Modelle

Genau für dieses Jahr stehen noch einige

interessieren, Leute, die in Klassiker verliebt

Events und Projekte an. Den Anfang werden

sind und natürlich die ganz normalen Sneaker

wir am 26. März machen, wenn wir zusam-

Fans, die einfach nur einen guten Turnschuh

men mit Nike unser Fünfjähriges feiern.

haben wollen. Aber unsere Stammkunden im

Mehr können wir noch nicht verraten, aber

Store beschränken sich nicht nur auf den Düs-

es ist einiges in Planung.

seldorfer Raum, es kommen auch regelmäßig viele Leute von außerhalb vorbei, um einzukaufen und ein wenig zu quatschen.

Man könnte meinen, dass es nach fünf Jahren Zeit für eine Collabo wäre. Gibt es da konkrete Pläne?

Zurück zu eurem Jubiläum. Ihr habt jetzt ein

Pläne für eine Collabo hatten wir schon,

neues Logo – Zufall? Was steckt dahinter?

bevor wir den Laden aufgemacht hatten!

Nein, kein Zufall. Für unser 5-Jähriges wollten

Haha. Ein eigener Schuh wäre natürlich ein

wir uns etwas Besonderes einfallen lassen und

Traum ...

Das klingt doch schon mal sehr vielver-

Schön gesagt! Wie ist eigentlich die Ver-

sprechend. Wo wir schon mal beim Thema

netzung mit anderen Shops. Herrscht hier

sind: Wie steht ihr zum momentanen Colla-

ein knallhartes Konkurrenzverhalten?

bo Boom?

Nein, im Gegenteil. Mit vielen der anderen

Momentan folgt ein Release dem Nächsten,

Stores sind wir vernetzt und man kennt sich

da wird es manchmal schon ein wenig un-

von Events oder Messen. Außerdem hilft

übersichtlich. Wir sehen das ähnlich wie mit

man sich gegenseitig gerne auch mal aus,

dem allgemeinen Sneaker Boom. Wo heute

zum Beispiel wenn der eine was hat, was

noch fast alles funktioniert, wasals „Collabo“ der andere braucht. In diesem Sinne, Shoutoder „Limited Edition“ deklariert wird,

Outs an die Jungs von 43einhalb, Suppa,

werden am Ende nur noch die Modelle und

Monox, GloryHole, TGWO und Asphaltgold.

Zusammenarbeiten klappen, die sich auf Qualität und Details konzentrieren. In unseren Augen sollte eine Collabo immer eine Geschichte erzählen und nicht nur ein weiterer Colorway mit zusätzlichem Label sein.

SNEAKERS 2/2014

Trotz dieser netten Worte besteht im

Spaß beiseite. Gibt es ernsthafte

Sneakers Einzelhandel ein harter Wettkampf

Ratschläge?

und die Konkurrenz wächst. Bereitet euch

Klar, wir würden jedem Ladenbesitzer

die steigende Anzahl der Konkurrenten

empfehlen, lieber erstmal klein zu starten

keine Sorgen?

und zu schauen, was an dem jeweiligen

Die Anzahl ist verständlich, da die gesamte

Stand­-ort wirklich funktioniert. Außerdem

Szene gewachsen ist. Ob es wirklich jeder-

sollte jeder versuchen, sich in irgendeiner

manns Sache ist, einen eigenen Store zu

Weise abzugrenzen und seine eigene kleine

führen, sei dahin gestellt. Aber grund-

Nische zu finden oder sogar zu kreieren.

sätzlich bereitet uns das keine allzu großen Sorgen. Denn am Ende treibt es einen natürlich auch an, sich immer weiterzuentwickeln! Es ist eine normale Entwicklung, wenn Dinge wachsen.

Stimmt. Jeder will ein Teil vom Kuchen!

Was würdet Ihr Leuten raten, die planen einen Store zu eröffnen? „Verkauft lieber Leberwurst“ – ist auf jeden Fall entspannter!

Danke, dass ihr euch die Zeit genommen habt. Auf die nächsten fünf Jahre! Last Words?

Danke euch für den Support! In diesem Sinne, Konichiwa, ihr Schweinebacken.

Interview

J a c q u e s Ch a s s a i n g I n t e r v i e w

The Saga It’s the 25th anniversary of the ZX 000 series and adidas releases a pack consisting of a ZX 8000, ZX 9000 and ZX 5000. The colors are inverted and show the „negatives“ of the OG legends we all know.

Because there’s so much more history to these models than just the colors, we met up with adidas’ Jacques Chassaing, the longest-serving designer in the company. The Frenchman who’s also responsible for Porsche Design products began working for adidas France in 1981 and created the ZX 500, the Forum and many other shoes. He was one of the key people responsible for introducing the torsion system and the Equipment story. Last not least, the man has silently been a regular subscriber to our magazine and we didn’t even know it! Enough reasons?

Here’s our conversation with the legendary footwear designer.

Interview & Photos: Holger von Krosigk

SNEAKERS 2/2014

Continues

Interview

Hello Jacques, thank you for taking the

called ETH, which is the „technisch-natur-

time for this interview. It’s perfect timing

wissenschaftliche Hochschule“ in Zürich.

because Sam Handy mentioned you in our

These guys did a lot of biomechanical re-

last interview when he talked about the ZX

search on running shoes. We also had a

Flux. So this is a kind of follow-up to the

team here in Germany because it was part

story. Have you seen the article?

of our „mid to long-term research group“.

Yes, I have an „Abo“ (subscription), be-

So we had a team here working together

cause I like it a lot. I have a lot of books at

with an external partner and I was part of

home, all the sneaker literature. It’s a kind

this team and attended all the meetings.

of hobby for me because I’m a person who not only looks at the products. When I see

It’s a super interesting chapter in the his-

a product, I want to know something about

tory of adidas. Can you tell us more about

the people behind them – who did this

why you created the Torsion system?

stuff and where did it come from?

It was introduced together with running, that was the first category where it started.

The Flux is great, not only because of its

The 100s ZX models were done in France.

shape but also because of the way it conti-

I started at adidas France and initiated the

nues the ZX story.

ZX story –or „family“ or „saga“ – „saga“

I was speaking with him about the design

is a nice name. At the time, running was

because we are taking over the toolings of

called „jogging“, the preferred name for

the 8000. One thing was of course Torsi-

the more serious or professional approach.

on and I told him that the system wasn’t

There were, of couse, shoes for it in France

just some idea from a guy walking in who

and in Germany. There was the Oregon

said „now we’re doing the Torsion system“.

or Atlanta in France, for instance. We had

It was something which has been started

these shoes and we were even a bit life-

and developed with lots of research behind

style oriented. But there was no big

it. There were external partners and we

concept behind it, just individual shoes.

worked with a lab in Switzerland. They are

But at that point we decided to look

SNEAKERS 2/2014

» The Torsion system was not just a design, it was technically driven.

«

at the types of runners wanted to do a

styling aspect came in and it was also our

collection or family of running shoes

strength. In France we had this whole

according to these specific needs.

„Italian“ thing going on and we did try to combine the performance aspect with the

How much were your designs influenced

street side of it. It came from the early days

by fashion or lifestyle aspects back then?

when I was always told that in our category

That was a completely different story. At

only about 10 % were bought by runners

the time, everything was more perfor-

and 90 % were bought by other guys who

mance-oriented. We looked at the runners

wore them with jeans. So performance was

and their needs and built the shoes accor-

never sacrificed but it had to look good on

dingly. But at the same time, this kind of

the street as well. The shoe was built

Interview

according to the functional requests and

USA they said „we need it soft!“. In Hol-

then we did what we called „finetuning“.

land, we worked with a guy who said „we

You know, you can have a panel on the

need more stability, it has to be hard!“. So

shoe and that’s fine. But let’s do it a little

as you can see, it’s hard to make everybody

more attractive. You begin with the

happy. It’s functional and emotional. The

performance point of view and end with

Torsion system was not just a design, it was

this „sexual appealing thing“. We started

technically driven. When you look at the

in 1984 with the ZX 500, basically my first

grooves of a shoe in the middle, they have

running shoe for adidas. By the way, my

a defined angle. You can’t do it different.

first basketball shoe was the Forum and my

When you look at your foot, if you run

first running tennis shoe was the Lendl. So,

barefoot, you have this kind of twisting

in 1989 it switched from the ZX 100s to the

effect when you land. It’s doing a rotati-

1000s and the 8000 was the introduction

on and the point of rotation is exactly on

of the Torsion system. It was a time of

a point called „tarsus“. And the grooves

innovation at adidas, the best place ...

and where they are joining, this is exactly corresponding to this point.

That we can imagine! Please tell us more about Torsion. We all know how it looks like and works but tell us a bit more about the idea – what inspired you?

There are different types of runners with different needs. Some say this shoe is too hard, others believe it’s too soft and this is not just personal taste varying between individuals, but between countries! In the

SNEAKERS 2/2014

Interview

» It’s functional and emotional. «

SNEAKERS 2/2014

Like an axis?

Yes, exactly. The foot is rotating according

8000 collection. It’s a challenge when you

to its length axis. And you have to reflect

have a big innovation like Torsion. When

this point of your foot and allow this rota-

you do it in a regular shoe, it’s too quiet.

tion in a shoe. If you have a flat sole, you

You have to work around it a bit and take a

cannot do it. You have to weaken it on the

holistic approach. You need this to have the

sides, you remove material in order to

innovative aspect coming through.

rotate. But if this is too weak for the weight of your body, the grooves can col-

When did you realize that it was more

lapse. When you have a dress shoe, you al-

than a performance shoe and had turned

ways have a shank in between, made from

into a collector’s item?

wood, metal or leather, to support your

Well, this is a problem I always have. I can-

mid-foot. With Torsion, you can control

not say that this or that shoe will become a

the rotation. You have two functions at the

collector’s item. Probably because I’m too

same time – stability and motion control.

much concentrated on the product. I don’t

That way, you can avoid overtwisting.

have this outside view which you guys probably have best. When I’ve designed a shoe,

Besides all the technology in the shoes,

I always ask „what’s next?“. I have to be

the original colors have become classic,

years ahead of a customer. It’s the

almost instantly. What inspired your team?

greatest thing in our job, it never ends. So

We wanted to have it different from what

when you do a shoe, you cannot say if it

was going on the mar-ket at the time.

will be the next big thing. But sometimes

There was a special collection done for

you have a gut feeling – this „Kribbeln im

the Seoul Olympics in 1988. There were

Bauch“ ...

really colorful shoes in this collection and we took over the theme and put it in the

Interview

The 8000 has become a real status shoe.

neutral guys looking for cushioning, then

Can you explain why that one? Why the

there were the pronating guys who needed

8000 and not the 9000 or any other?

support and the forefoot runners who nee-

I think from a product point of view, the

ded guidance. The categories were called

shoe is probably the strongest „adidas state-

„dämpfen, stützen, führen“ which trans-

ment“ in a sense that you have the adidas

lates to „cushion, support, guidance“ and

DNA and the brand personality. It was

consequently to the numbers of the shoes

even a bit too much.The question remains,

accordingly.

why is the ZX 8000 THE shoe? You obviously have the 7000 or the 9000 and so

What does ZX stand for?

on. When I looked at the collection and had

It was a French marketing idea. A lot of

all the shoes there, I asked myself, what’s

people think it comes from some scientific

the difference between this and that shoe?

concept or biomechanical idea, but it was

Yesterday evening I came back from a

completely different. At the time there

meeting and took a catalogue from ’89

were some Japanese motorbikes and one of

and looked at it. There IS a difference.

the brands had these names for their bikes

The 8000 probably shows the best balance

– ZX 500 etc. Our idea was to start with

between what should be on a shoe to make

the 500 as a „motion control shoe“.

it attractive. I understand it now, I understand why this is THE shoe. If I look at all

If you look at sneakers today, it seems

the other shoes, I would also pick this one.

like a cycle where shoes start in perfor-

It was just the right thing.

mance and end in lifestyle. Will this cycle continue?

You mentioned that you were really per-

The Flux is one example which is taking

fomance-driven and catered to the different

pieces of the DNA of an iconic product

needs of the athletes. What categories did

and does it in an up-to date way. It has less

you end up with?

function, that’s clear, but it has this, what I

We had three categories. One for the

call, „iconic connection“. My dream would

SNEAKERS 2/2014

be that we do a performance shoe used on

I have a lot of shoes at home and yes, I’m

the street, even keeping the same perfor-

pretty emotionally connected. My biggest

mance idea.

thing is when I go to stores and watch consumers’ reactions. When I go to paris I always

Isn’t Boost that kind of technology?

go to the adidas store and stay in front of

Yes, Boost is a good example. You have

the shoes to see what people take and how

the best technology but you can wear it on

they react. It’s the best thing for a designer.

the street, even when you don’t need all

The best thing is when somebody takes

the performance. One of the priorities of

your shoe from a wall of 100 shoes.

Boost is comfort. And you can see a little of what’s going on in the uppers – seam-

What are your favorite shoes of all time?

less, knitting, engineered mesh, exactly the

First of all, the ZX 500 because this was

thing.

my first shoe for adidas which is always nostalgic for me. The next one is the

We had the 25th anniversary collection

Forum, also because what was around this

here. What’s your opinion when you see

product. When I did this I went to the

retros like this?

States to meet a basketball coach. When I

I think it’s great. You know, sometimes

landed in New York there was a big snow

you are trying to hard. You have so many

storm and after the meeting we tried to

things in the history and you just have to

get out of the airport and everything was

update it and make it appealing for today.

blocked. I staid two days at the airport and

Because the consumer of 1989 isn’t the

people were fighting. On the second day

same as today, but they are still trusting a

they took us downtown to a hotel and

brand and the image of adidas is so strong.

I remember that people were doing cross

You have to take benefit of this.

country skiing on fifth avenue. There’s so much emotional stuff to tell, it’s amazing.

Are you emotionally attached to the shoes you created or to shoes in general?

When the Originals designers come and ask about the shoes, they are really

Interview

fond of this, because it’s not all about „this is leather, this is plastic“ – there’s another thing to it.

But we still need to hear your number three of the favorite shoes!

Number three. I would say one of the Porsche, which I did three or four years ago.It’s a pretty lightweight EVA shoe construction. The white is like a frame and inside you have a different materials. As you know, I’m in charge of footwear design for Porsche Sport which is the expensive stuff around 400 euros. Porsche Design Originals is a bit less expensive and more the „sneakers world“.

Jaques, you’ve been for adidas for such a long time, can you share something from your early days in the company?

I started in France in 1981 and at that time you had adidas France and adidas Germany. Horst Dassler started France with some factories. It was small, so we didn’t speak about design only. It was an office with five or six people, everyone doing the whole thing. Horst Dassler died in 1987 and so I could experience a

SNEAKERS 2/2014

little bit with him. One time I did a football sole and it was something different, less technically connected. He came to me and said „you are fond of Picasso“. In 1989 I started going back and forth for Torsion and all these things and in 1990/1991 it was the closing of the office in France and the whole team had to move here. It was a big time. When Rob Strasser and Peter Moore came in the early 90s, it was a discovery. It was the first time when I could speak to people on the same level about design and product. When we started Equipment, I was one of the guys together with Peter Moore and Rob Strasser. We did running shoes, tennis, basketball...

Oh, there was also my experience with RUN DMC, because I did that stuff and also worked on the Ewing collection with the Rivalry attitude. This was all done in France.

Very important shoes, all of them!

Yes. You know, sometimes in meetings with the guys who worked with me in France ... we are proud of this.

You can be! Thanks for this interview, Jaques Chassaing.

adidas CampUs PrimeKniT

Photo: Holger von Krosigk

Es war fast ein wenig still geworden um das Thema Primeknit, aber jetzt geht es weiter mit dem tech Upper. In diesem Fall handelt es sich um eine Adaption eines echten adidas Klassikers – des Campus. Die Prime-knit Variante kommt in drei Farbwegen, bei denen es sich um echte Archiv-Colorways handelt. Ursprünglich erschien das Modell übrigens als „Tournament“ in den frühen 70ern, wurde allerdings um 1980 herum in „Campus“ umbenannt. Dass der Schuh an den Füßen der Beastie Boys und diverser Skategrößen in den frühen 90er Jahren Legendenstatus erreichte, muss man kaum noch erwähnen. Das 2014er Update eignet sich logischerweise nicht zum Skaten, es könnte allerdings ein großer Schuh für den Sommer werden. Eine lobenswerte Tatsache zum Schluss: Diese Schuhe sind „Made in Germany“.

ElEmEnt prEsEnts thE

TROPICAL THUNDER COLLECTION

prEston lockhart topaz c3 topaz

@ElEmEntbrand @ElEmEntEuropE ElEmEntbrand.com

Sneak Boutique

SNEAKERS 2/2014

Photos: Holger von Krosigk

Asics Gel Lyte III (CMYK Pack)

Sneak Boutique

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New Balance M990 (Made in USA)

Sneak Boutique

KangaROOS Current

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Sneak Boutique

Nike Air Max 90

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Sneak Boutique

Reebok Classic x Garbstore CL 6000

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Sneak Boutique

Asics Gel Kayano Trainer

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Sneak Boutique

adidas EQT Running Support (City Pack)

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Sneak Boutique

FILA Overpass

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Flatbush Zombies

die neue Converse Kampagne – f o t o g r a f i e rt v o n Ar i M a r c o p o u l o s SNEAKERS 2/2014

Text: Ernie Beckmann

In diesem Jahr wartet Converse mit einer Kampagne auf, die unter dem Motto „Elevate Cons“ läuft. Dabei steht Cons nicht für den Basketballschuh aus dem Jahr 1989, sondern für das gleichnamige „Sport Style“ Segment von Converse. Im Mittelpunkt der Kampagne sind diesmal allerdings nicht die typischen Sport- oder Musikstars, sondern die sogenannten „Creative Actives“; junge, kreative Macher, deren Lifestyle die aktuellen Converse-Modelle widerspiegelt – moderne Streetkultur eben.

Um dem ganzen Nachdruck zu verleihen, arbeitete Converse mit Ari Marcopoulos zusammen. Der in Amsterdam geborene und heute in Kalifornien lebende Künstler gilt als einer der renommiertesten Fotografen der modernen amerikanischen Popkultur.

Wie zu erwarten war, ist es ihm gelungen, die Aura der Protagonisten aus Skateboarding, Graffiti, Hip-Hop und Co. auf einzigartige Weise festzuhalten.

Star Player Plus Hi

Mit Converse kann eigentlich jeder etwas anfangen. Trotz der breit gefächerten Geschichte der Marke, die einst mit winterfesten Stiefeln im Programm als „Converse Rubber Company“ ins Rennen ging, verbinden die meisten Leute mit Converse einen Basketballschuh aus dem Jahr 1918, der sich im Laufe der Jahre zu einem der wohl bekanntesten Schuhe der Welt entwickelte.

Die Rede ist natürlich vom Chuck Taylor All Star, genannt „Chucks“. Dieser wurde übrigens nach dem Basketballer und späteren Converse Mitarbeiter Chuck Taylor benannt, dessen Unterschrift noch heute das Patch auf den Innenseiten der Chucks ziert. Nicht zu vergessen natürlich auch der Schuh von Badminton Legende Jack Purcell, der es an den Füßen von James Dean zu Weltruhm schaffte. Besonders in den 80er und 90er Jahren sorgte man mit einigen weiteren Klassikern aus dem Basketballbereich für viel Aufmerksamkeit. Modelle wie der Weapon, die ganze Cons ERX Reihe, oder auch der Aero Jam sind auch heute noch bei Sammlern beliebt.

SNEAKERS 2/2014

Star Player Ox

Mike Anderson

Phony PPL

Der Name „Cons“ steht bei Converse heute für ein eigenes Segment, das sich hauptsächlich mit Designs aus der modernen Street Culture beschäftigt. Bereits seit 2009 fährt sogar ein Skateboarding Team unter dem gleichnamigen Label für Converse.

Dort versammeln sich so illustre Fahrer wie Kenny Anderson, Nick Trapasso, Sammy Baca, Raymond Molinar oder Rune Glifberg.

Mit der neuen Kampagne, die wir hier vorstellen, begibt sich Converse auf eine echte Mission. Denn Kreativität und Attitüde sollen zu einem „Cons Movement“ zusammenfließen. Der Konsument soll das Ganze nicht nur von außen betrachten, sondern ebenfalls aktiv werden. Klingt nach Theorie, wurde aber zum Beispiel schon vergangenen Oktober in Berlin in Form des „CONS SPACE“ erfolgreich umgesetzt. Damals kamen in einer stillgelegten Teppichfabrik verschiedene Künstler mit SkateboardBackground zusammen und hauchten dem umgebauten Gebäude auf drei Etagen

The Bots

The Shrine

Leben ein – eine temporäre Ausstellungsund Veranstaltungsfläche war geboren.

Mission erfolgreich, kann man da nur sagen. Klingt interessant? Ist es auch. Mit dieser Kampagne stellt Converse seine Relevanz nicht nur für die „kreativen Macher“ unter Beweis, sondern auch für all diejenigen, die dem schnöden Einheitsbrei der sogenannten Urban Streetwear entkommen wollen und dem eigenen kulturellen oder gegenkultu-rellen Anspruch gerecht werden wollen.

Auf der Facebookseite von Converse kann man sehen, dass die Marke viel untenimmt, um die Leute auf die Beine zu bringen. Und die Dinge, die den Menschen dort angeboten werden, haben es in sich. So SNEAKERS 2/2014

organisiert man Konzerte, stellt Studiozeit für lokale Bands zum Produzieren ihrer eigenen Musik zur Verfügung und veranstaltet Kreativ-Workshops um die DIYKultur der 80er und 90er Jahre zu reanimieren. Dort kann man dann zum Beispiel lernen, wie man ein eigenes Magazin verwirklicht oder sein eigenes Skatevideo dreht und schneidet. Nachdruck verleiht man dem Ganzen, indem man einige dieser jungen, männlichen, kreativen Macher als Botschafter der Bewegung in den Mittelpunt stellt, sie dadurch mit einbezieht und ihre Kreativität fördert. In der letzten Ausgabe des Sneakers Magazins konnte man bereits Teile der aktuellen Kampagne in Form einer Werbeanzeige sehen. In vielen Einzelbildern wurden die in der Kam-

Star Player Ox

pagne gezeigten „Creative Actives“ gezeigt.

Insgesamt hat Converse im Rahmen dieses Endorsements 13 Personen oder Gruppen unter seine Fittiche genommen. Die Range reicht von Hip Hop Musikern und DJays, über Fotografen und Graffiti Künstler, bis hin zu Skateboardern und Grafik-Designern. Mit dabei sind Los Rakas, Trash Talk, Flatbush Zombies, Ratking, Vizie, Gogy Esparza, The Shrine, The Bots, Zered Basset, Bishop Nehru, Mike Anderson, Nick Trapasso und Phony Ppl. Der Funke dieser Kampagne wird durch die aussagekräftigen Bilder von Starfotografen Ari Marcopoulos gezündet. Als Stilikonen werden eben jene kreativen Macher so präsentiert wie sie sind und ihre Krea-tivität

ausleben. Und Ari ist genau der Richtige für diesen Job, denn er hat einen ähnlichen Werdegang hinter sich, wie die meisten der abgebildeten Künstler. Im Winter 1980 kam er als junger, unerfahrener dreiundzwanzigjähriger Fotograf aus Holland nach New York.

Dort fand er sich schnell in der gewachsenen Künstlerszene um Jean-Michel Basquiat, Robert Mapplethorpe und Andy Warhol, dessen Assistent er wurde, wieder. Über die Jahre hinweg entwickelte sich Marcopouluszu einem der einflussreichsten Fotografen der Underground Street Culture und damit einer Gegenkultur zum Mainstream. Schon Anfang der 80er Jahre dokumentierte er in seiner neuen Heimatstadt New York die aufkeimende Hip Hop Kultur. Seine Bilder der mit Graffitis gesäumten Straßen von

El-P Nick Trapasso

Trash Talk SNEAKERS 2/2014

New York zeigten schon genau so eine Verbun-denheit zur Gegenkultur, wie Fotos von Breakdancern mit fetten Senkeln in ihren Sneakern, von denen sich Marcopoulus magisch angezogen fühlte, wie er selber einmal sagte. Auch portraitierte er Musiker wie die Fat Boys, Run DMC, die Beastie Boys oder Public Enemy, die damals mit ihren Aussagen für einen Aufschrei in der amerikanischen Gesellschaft sorgten. Zusammenfassend kann man sagen, dass er sich einen Namen durch Darstellungen von Leuten am Rande des Normalen machte. In den 90er Jahren zog Marcopoulus mit dem nomadierenden Snowboardzirkus durch die Weltgeschichte und dokumentierte dabei ein Lebensgefühl, dem viele junge Menschen nacheifern wollten.

Finanziell nicht mehr wirklich auf Auftragsarbeiten angewiesen, zog sich Marcopoulus nach dieser doch recht wilden Zeit ein wenig zurück und begann seine Familie zu portraitieren. Zahlreiche Ausstellungen, Kataloge und Bücher folgten und zeigen, dass der Fotograf zum Künstler geworden und dort angekommen ist, wo er sich selber eigentlich schon immer sah.

Converse gelingt mit dieser Kampagne etwas Außergewöhnliches: Nicht so sehr das Produkt steht im Mittelpunkt, sondern das Lebensgefühl, das Movement, das in diesem Artikel beschrieben wurde.

Doch vergessen hat man das Produkt nicht.

Zu den „New Player Hero Styles“, wie diese Modelle genannt werden, gehört zum einendie maskulinere Version des Converse Cons Star Player, dessen Upper in Suede oder mit kreativem Materialmix kommt.

Zum anderen ist der höher geschnittene Converse Cons Star Player Plus mit

gepolsterter Knöchel-Partie in klaren Farben und mit stark kontrastierendem Logo auf der Zunge zu den Hauptdarstellern dieser Kampagne geworden. Beiden Modellen gemein sind die modern gestalteten Lace Eyelets und die marmorierten Innensohlen. Auch sind die Silhouetten insge-samt etwas schmaler geschnitten, womit man sich den modernen Style- und Komfortstandards anpasst.

Wir sind gespannt, was als Teil dieser Kampagne noch alles auf uns zukommt.

Vizie

SNEAKERS 2/2014

Text: Erik H端sken / Footwear archive: Neiko Knight. Thanks to Jordy Bosch for helping

Rock ’n’ Roll

Tennis

Andre Agassi – the player, the man and his sneaker legacy

Last issue, we focused on John McEnroe and how this hot-tempered lad’s style changed the sport forever. But despite this gamechanging aura and no less than four legendary sneaker models associated with the Mac, his shoes remained classic and obeyed the rules better than he did. But the events took a new turn, when a young man from Las Vegas entered the stage and was signed by Nike in 1988. Marketed as the successor to John McEnroe, he collaborated with Nike on a collection that reflected how he was – non-conformist, aggressive, unrelenting and bold. In Tinker Hatfield, Andre Agassi had a rebel ally. At the height of his artistic powers, the legendary designer created a collection resembling a nuclear bomb. Among the items were footwear styles such as the Air Tech Challenge II and many others, which belong to the most memorable and praised sneakers of all time.

With some of them resurfacing as retros in connection with a renewed partnership with Nike, we’d like to provide you with some context to this 90s sneaker revolution. Let’s have a look at the incredible life and career of „the punisher”.

Rock »The pimp lifestyle in his early career covered up that he was storm-tossed by his expectations of himself.«

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There are few tennis players who left traces in the popcultural subconsciousness due to their extraordinary charisma. One who might stand above all of them is Andre Agassi. His contemporary and greatest rival Pete Sampras won 14 Grand Slam titles but that’s all that’s interesting about him.

Agassi won „just“ seven, but was a game changer and rebel who went through several purgatories. What started with John McEnroe, flipping the bird to the conservative tennis establishment and its elitist behaviourism, was taken to another level by Agassi. But besides his appearance on court he was a hell of a player, very talented with an approach to hit every ball as hard as he could and a „never, NEVER give up“ menta-lity that eventually led him to the no. 1 spot and made him the first man since Rod Laver in 1969 to win all Grand Slam titles.

His distinct look and style on and off court, his notorious marriage with actress Brooke Shields made him a popstar. But contrary to the glamour on the outside, he was haunted on the inside, a man who hated his sport. There was always an ambiguity of sorts, his sometimes shady behaviour and the pimp lifestyle in his early career – Italian sports cars and a private Boeing 727 – covered up that he was storm-tossed by his expectations of himself – being the best tennis player in the world. These expectations were planted into him during his childhood under the hard regiment of his father. When Andre was three years old, his father introduced him to his colleagues as the “future number 1 tennis champion”.

What happened from then on is

unimaginable. Little Andre had to hit balls everyday on the tennis court his father built in their backyard. He saw himself faced with a dragon, that’s how he called the merciless ball-machine customized by his father to make it fire-spit balls even faster at Andre.

Three practicing sessions per day, 365 days of the year. He hit up to 3000 balls a day.

Birthday or Christmas? Yes. Like a modern day Kaspar Hauser whose dungeon was the tennis court. His mother never intervened and Andre became haunted by a game he hated.

At the age of 13 he enrolled in the Nick Bollettieri Tennis Academy in Florida.

Tuition payed for an eight week stay, but when Bollettieri saw him play he let him stay for free. Andre was now confronted with another Kaspar Hauser situation 2500 miles away from home. He found himself in a tennis boarding school run by an ex-paratrooper. Which meant tennis, conditioning and school everyday from six in the morning til lights out. When you grow up under a father who constantly pushes you to your physical and psychological limits since you were a toddler, rebellion is inevitable at some point. Agassi’s way to rebel was his flamboyant appearance on and off court. Deprived of his childhood and youth he started to rebel. Since his father wasn’t around, it was Bolletieri and for that matter the whole world Andre wanted to provoke. He let his hair grow, started to use make-up and at one tournament he showed up for his first match dressed as a clown. But he was way too talen-ted as a player, so Bolletieri took his chance and kept him at his academy.

Aged 16, Andre turned pro in 1986 and by 1988 he was already number 4 in the rankings. But it wasn’t before 1992 that he won his first Grand Slam title. His first gig in Wimbledon in 1987 was a desaster – he lost in the first round. Agassi didn’t make it to Wimbledon from 1988 to 1990 because he disliked grass surface, and of course the dress code. All white. It wasn’t him. His comeback in 1991 wasn’t successful either, but in 1992 he pulled a Julius Caesar „veni vidi vici“. Finally, after winning Wimbledon he was considered a champion.

In 1993, he parted ways with Bollettieri and Brad Gilbert became his coach. Soon afterwards he became the first unseeded player since 1930 to win the US Open. He achieved a 73-9 record in 1995, and reached the top-ranked position in the world. In 1996, he won the gold medal at the Olympics.

SNEAKERS 2/2014

ck ’n’ Roll

Tennis

»We like to wake people up.«

Just three years prior to that he met Brooke Shields in 1993 and, after a four-year courtship, the two married in Carmel, California in 1997. Tennis wasn’t the top priority for Agassi anymore and he sank to a 141 world ranking. Besides that, the marriage wasn’t built to last and the couple got divorced in 1999. Subsequently, the fighter he was, Agassi commanded himself into a rigorous drill and by the end of 1999, he was ranked number one in the world again.

His looks were dominated by his two-tone mullet and the notorious bike-tights tennis shorts combination. The tights in signal yellow or signal orange, the shorts preferably in moon wash optic, either black or blue.

What sounds like a combination from hell was actually pretty cool and looked badass, at least on him. His whole style and attitude made him one of the most

Phil Knight, 1991

marketable athletes in the world.

Most people have a soft spot for the rebel, even if they would never admit it.

They admire the courage for a full-on FTW attitude, the rebel or outlaw represents someone they never had the guts to be. Companies know how to market this. And since John McEnroe had the peak of his career behind him, Nike needed a new poster boy and started to cash in on the rebel status.

Since Agassi was extremely marketable, they came up with some real power moves.

He wore the most notorious outfit in the history of tennis during the 1990 French Open. Black denim shorts covering pink stretch pants, a multicolored headband and a shirt – black down to the button borde where it splashed into white, adorned with pink vertical blocks. His signature Air Tech Challenge II in the Hot Lava colorway, designed by Tinker Hatfield, those colors dashed on the heel and toe. What actually seemed LSD-induced graphic and shoe design put tennis on the same level as basketball. People started to wear his signature clothing and shoes off-court. And when Agassi returned to Nike after an eight year hiatus in 2013 it took the guys in Portland less than a second to whiff what treasure Karma had brough them.

Air Tech 3/4 jr

AIR TECH CHALLENGE LOW WHITE KIWI PERVLT, BRTMAN

Air Tech Challenge 3/4 WHT / BLK PERVLT

Air Tech Challenge II »Hot Lava«

W. AIR TOUR CHALLENGE

A. TECH 3/4

A. TECH LOW

A PRO LOW

R L.A. TECH LOW

A PRO LOW II

And the sneaker aficionados. The Air Tech Challenge II is one of the most beloved kicks of all time. Not only do they reflect another quantum leap thanks to Tinker Hatfield. They also inspired the midsole of the Yeezy II. The retros we’ve seen and the ones we will see are dreams coming true for many. They will also help to bring back many recollections of one of the most memorable personalities that the previously white sport has seen. In hinsight, there are two facts in Agassi’s life that say the most about his inner demons.

Rock ’n’ Roll

»He saw himself faced with a dragon, that’s how he called the merciless ball-machine customized by his father to make it fire-spit balls even faster at Andre.«

Rock ’n’ Roll

WMNS L.A. PRO WH/FL

Advantage II Low

WMNS L.A. PRO MID WH/SLR

’n’ Roll

SNEAKERS 2/2014

Tennis

In 1997 he was using crystal meth to tamper down the solicitudes about his upcoming marriage with Brooke Shields and to endure the poor form. Why he opted for hillbilly-heroin instead of prime cocaine is not really to comprehend – chacun à son goût. Something that is even more disturbing is the fact that the Mötley-Crüemane hairstyle he sported throughout the 90s was actually a wig. In retrospect, it’s hard to believe that all the sassytude was simply about image, but he found salvation when he finally got together with Steffi Graf, the greatest female tennis player of all time.

They’re soul mates, it’s a modern fairytale come true. “She’s my lady. End of story”.

Rock

M

ode kommt und geht in Zyklen – auch Slip-Ons sind da keine Ausnahme.

Ursprünglich aus dem Freizeit-Schuhwerk von Adel und Königshaus in England im 19. Jahrhundert hervorgegangen, hat sich das senkellose Konzept später in verschiedensten Formen etabliert. Die kalifornisch-inspirierte Version, die man vor allem mit Surfen und Skateboarding in Verbindung bringt, wurde in den 60er und 70er Jahren populär und gehört seither zum allgemeinen modischen Repertoire vieler Marken. Das Jahr 2014 markiert mal wieder eine regelrechte Renaissance dieser Sneakervariante, die wir an den slicken Boxfresh Silhouetten in diesem Sommer farbenfroh und mit Prints erleben dürfen.

Photo: Manuel Mittelpunkt

Collection Check

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Boxfresh Slip-ons

e

s gibt kaum eine Marke, die es schafft, ihr Image so per­fekt auf den Punkt zu bringen wie Lacoste.

Egal, wie viel Hintergrund­ wissen man zu Tennislegende René Lacoste vorweisen kann, den „Lacoste Style“ kann jeder definieren. Damit aber nicht nur die affluente Ü-30-Fraktion daran teilhaben kann, hat Lacoste jetzt eine neue Kollektion ins Leben gerufen, die weitaus farbenfroher rüber­kommt, als alles, was man bislang vom französischen Kultlabel kennt.

Die Silhouetten sind so clean designt, wie man es erwartet, aber ansonsten zeigt sich das Motto sehr deutlich – „bring the color!“

Photo: Manuel Mittelpunkt

Collection Check

Lacoste L C ST

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Collection Check

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T U B E TUBE L A C E S LACES

G

erade in Zeiten des Customizing gewinnen Laces wieder immer mehr an Bedeutung. Vom reinen Funktions-Artikel kann schon lange keine Rede mehr sein. „Laces“ werden vielmehr als Sneaker-Accessoires verwendet, mit denen man schnell eine gesamte Schuhoptik verändern kann. Über diverse Schnürtechniken und Bindungsweisen bis hin zur perfekt gebundenen Schleife wird in den jeweiligen Facebook-Gruppen diskutiert und gestritten. Sogar einige Bücher konnten mit dieser Thematik bereits gefüllt und veröffentlicht werden. Allerdings geizen aktuell viele Sportbrands bei ihren Schuhen mit Beigaben, so dass sich in den Boxen meistens nur ein Paar Senkel befindet. Entsprechend schnell hat sich ein Markt entwickelt, in dem besonders die Marke TUBE LACES positiv auffällt. Über dreißig Farbgebungen mit vier verschiedenen Längen stehen zur Auswahl. Über die Standardpalette hinaus bietet die Brand auch ausgefallene Senkel-Schöpfungen an: Animal, Camo, Glow in the Dark oder auch Glow in the Sun, die bei-spielsweise ihre Farbe bei Sonnenlicht wechseln, sind nur einige Alternativen, mit denen man nun die Möglichkeit hat, entsprechende Modelle perfekt zu matchen.

Auch Collabo Projekte stehen an – man darf gespannt sein! Lace up & roll out! www.tubelaces.com

Images: PUMA SELECT Interview: Holger von Krosigk Portrait Yassine Saidi: Dominic Marley

PUMA SELECT

“If you want it, you need to find it.”

SNEAKERS 2/2014

An Interview W i th Y a s s i n e S a i d i SELECT is Puma’s new platform for collaborations and heritage styles. Connecting fashion and streetwear influences, this global collaborative journey starts in Herzogenaurach and continues to London, Paris, New York and Tokyo – cities which are represented by the designers/brands House of Hackney, BWGH, Sophia Chang and Myhara Yasuhiro. The results are as avant-garde as unique and PUMA has captured this spirit in a beautiful little book, which is part of an ongoing series. In order to understand the new category better, we’ve interviewed the man knows all about it – Yassine Saidi, Head of PUMA SELECT.

Part of the Select collection: PUMA XS 850

PUMA X BWGH

Yassine, with PUMA SELECT you have a big project under your umbrella. But before we go into details, let’s start with your personal connection to PUMA - what are some of your first memories of the brand.

I grew up at a time when the rest of the world was influenced by what was going on in America. It was during the B-boy and hip-hop era of the 90s when everyone was wearing Clydes and Suedes. They were the sneakers that you had to have. When we were kids, the way we dressed and the sneakers we wore were what defined you. Which I suppose is still what’s happening today.

SNEAKERS 2/2014

W hat aspects of PUMA inspire you today?

The story of PUMA has always amazed

new people. We collaborate with industry

me. The history of the Dassler brothers and

names as well as up and coming artist,

how PUMA came to what it is today

influencers and designers. Although this

is incomparable; I would say it is the most

is something we have always done, for

inspiring in the indus-try. We have a histo-

example we were the first sports brand to

ry that is deeply rooted in performance,

partner with a fashion house back in 1998

where innovation is key. From developing

when we collaborated with Jil Sander. With

the Super Atom, the first football boot with

a platform like SELECT, we can reconnect

screw in studs, to Trinomic, the innovative

with our fashion and streetwear consu-

performance technology of the 90s, which

mer and continue to tell the PUMA story

is now witnessing a rebirth on the street.

through our iconic technical product. We

When I travel over to the PUMA HQ in

recently collaborated with Ronnie Fieg on

Herzogenaurach, I always make sure I go

one of PUMA’s Trinomic silhouettes, the

to the Archive. It never get’s old. Looking

Disc. We launched it in Paris, and the shoe

back at the PUMA’s incredible history in

was sold out within hours of the product

terms of product innovation and techno-

dropping. This encompasses what SELECT

logy it is clear to see the potential of the

is all about.

brand.

A potential that also comes across in the SELECT book, if we may add. It’s really beautiful, amazing imagery and graphic design – very well done! It’s also the launch of SELECT as a category. Why did you feel the need to do this and what’s special about SELECT in your opinion?

SELECT is a platform for sharing experiences, our aim is to tell stories and discover

We think that the book does a good job in connecting with the sports heritage of the brand. For instance all the shootings took place in sports facilities. Was that under consideration when you planned it?

Yes, definitely. PUMA is fundamentally a sports brand with street culture and fashion constantly taking inspiration from the brand. When you look back to the B-boy era, for example, PUMA silhouettes like the Clyde and States were constantly visible on the street. At the moment we are seeing a massive trend in performance styles making a comeback outside this arena and into the street culture. Our Trinomic technology, which was iconic on the track during the 90s is a prime example. Sports influence on fashion and streetwear is a constant.

In creating the magazine it was imperative that we connected our brand’s sports heritage to the current trends in the market today.

SNEAKERS 2/2014

PUMA X House of Hackney

“Sport’s influence on fashion and streetwear is a constant.”

S

ome of the collaborations go really far from the original sports products.

Were you ever afraid that it would distract too much from the models or the brand? Did you make any restrictions on the designs or was it complete freedom?

PUMA is a sports brand and all of our styles represent this heritage, be that the Disc mechanism in a Mihara Yasuhiro shoe or the House of Hackney print on the Classic Suede. Our collaborators come from all different walks of life, high fashion, interior, influencers, artists and more. Archive silhouettes, which were once a purely performance shoe are reworked with the collaborator putting their own twist and imprint on such styles. PUMA’s sport element and heritage is always a constant throughout such collaborations.

Most of the time we never deviate too far from the original shoe, but of course, when it is collaboration, the partner needs to put their stamp on the project.

P U M A X M i h a r a Y a s uh i r o

The SELECT book almost starts with Boris Becker! Many Germans have vivid memories of his Wimbledon times! Will this be an official product that you’re going to retro?

PUMA’s relationship with Becker never

Okay, let’s see! Another question on our

really ended, Boris never left PUMA in that

mind is about the collaborative process. Did

sense. PUMA was with him at his most

you meet with all the designers in person

successful times and it’s hard to forget that.

or was it all about virtual meetings?

PUMA is a sports company and everything

We always meet with our partners face to

we do in lifestyle has a sports background

face. There is more to a collaboration than

– so Becker is a natural. The question of

just creating a product. This only works suc-

whether we re-issue? Only time will tell.

cessfully when a there is a mutual understanding of each other’s vision. To achieve this, it’s important to spend time in both environments and build a relationship.

This is why we don’t have virtual meetings; our collaborators often travel to London and spend time with the team as well as our team spending time in our partners’ environment.

“If it’s a collaboration, the partner needs to put their stamp on the project.“ SNEAKERS 2/2014

With BWGH, Sophia Chang or House of Hackney you have some people from very different cities. Do you think that these people have a different relationship with the PUMA brand because of their local differences?

PUMA is a globally recognized sport performance brand and this is the common denominator. Of course different countries see PUMA as a performance brand in different arenas, like in Japan, PUMA is a football brand, in the USA it’s Basketball and in the UK it’s running. But our brand ethos is the same throughout.

SNEAKERS 2/2014

PUMA X S o ph i a Ch a n g

Why did you choose the Rudolf Dassler cover and what would he say about what you’re doing with SELECT? It was important to feature Rudolf Dassler on the cover to pay tribute to our founder and to re-center the brand into its history. Throughout the magazine you will see that every fashion shoot is taken in a sporting arena. I think Rudolf Dassler would be proud to see that everything we do relates to the sporting heritage that he created.

And how selective will SELECT be?

We will continue to retail in premium sneaker stores as well as in concept stores globally. It’s called SELECT because it is selective, you don’t get it everywhere. If you want it, you need to find it.

SNEAKERS 2/2014

WWW. K L E KT. I N T HE S N E A K E R M A R K E T P LAC E S E L L , BUY & TRADE . N O FE E S!

A Matter of Balance

Searching for Sneaker-Peace of Mind Eine Fotostrecke von Michele Gastl

SNEAKERS 2/2014

Reebok GS Inferno

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Asics Gel Lyte V

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Diadora Titan II

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PUMA XT2 MMQ

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adidas City Marathon PT

Collection Check

BEnji Blunt

◊All About Details◊ Interview: Holger von Krosigk Photos by Errol (eatmoreshoes.com) and Benji Blunt

C

ustomizing is a wide spectrum and comprises anything from infantile doodling on a Chuck Taylor’s white canvas to fully fledged “sneaker surgeries” on complex models. But no matter what tools someone uses, the motivation is always the same – the wish to personalize and create something unique. So what’s special about UK customizer Benji Blunt? The crazy amount of detail going into each shoe combined with that occasional “factory feel” which makes you believe his sneakers come straight from a store shelf. No wonder, institutions like New Balance and Size? Have teamed up with him. Here’s more about Benji – from Benji himself.

SNEAKERS 2/2014

Benji, let’s start at the beginning – how did you get into customizing sneakers?

I have a background in teaching music, technology and art to children and young adults in a range of settings. I also DJ’d and ran club nights for quite a while. I have always been interested in customizing, but a certain group of young people I was working with really engaged in some colorway work and I started with them. I began to look closely at the method and techniques needed in order to teach it. Then my first pairs – done for myself – caught the attention of some collectors and I started to get requests for shoes.

What’s your goal when you are working on a sneaker. Is there a concept beforehand?

Though lots of my shoes are “themed” I am not always driven by a particular concept. I like simple colorways, pattern and texture.

Some of my customs may look more “factory” than others, the Safari­star for example, one of my first and still a firm favorite. Some shoes are just color flips and I am cool with that. Some of my shoes are collaborations and so themes may run through the work. But in all my work, detail is important – small touches, whether it is aglets, tongue badges or bespoke boxes …

What are the tools of your trade?

I use paint mainly. I buy leather paint from a few brands and add a little of this and that ingredient, depending on the project. I have used an airbrush to apply paint, but prefer to use a regular art brushes. I have a studio full of various tools and potions. I am buying more and more fabric and leather for projects too. I have a couple of sewing machines that stretch my patience at times, but I am hoping to master.

How long does it take for you to finish a shoe from start to finish?

It really depends on the idea and shoe. But a straightforward painted custom on a leather shoe would involve removing the existing paint to provide a good key. Undercoating a few thin coats and top coating a few thin coats. Maybe a protective coat of varnish or a decorative effect lastly. A simple color flip could take 10-15 hours with preparation and finishing. If it’s a pattern or complicated design this would slow things right down. Depending on the job it could take triple the time and adding new tongues, laces and other extras, you are talking 45-50 hours.

What do you think of the current state of customizing?

I think there are a lot of myths out there, about how to custom, what will work and what is wearable. Some materials are problematic and a lot of people are reconstructing shoes for sports. I am not con­ vinced you can achieve the build quality required by professional sportsmen and women in a non-factory environment. That said, some customizers have invested heavily in the right tools for the job. Some materials used on shoes are more suitable for painting and dying, so the wearability can vary. I can work with some synthetic materials but not with others. But you would want to be careful wearing something hand crafted which comes at triple the price of a regular pair of shoes! I just completed some painted and partially recon­structed shoes and then watched the new owners breakdance in them. I was quite pleased they survived.

Interview

SNEAKERS 2/2014

What makes a good base shoe?

It could be the right material, the right colors on the parts I cannot or don’t want to change. It could be a simple thing like the Mastermind Pro Model, where I see laces where there is velcro! Certain leathers lend themselves to painting, some to dying and some materials I would never touch again! A shoe could be perfect for a specific idea in 90% of its make-up, but that 10% – that plastic counter or whatever – could just mean it’s a pass.

tern found on some banana plants. I wanted to use the color and shape found on these variegated leaves, on the upper, a little like a camo pattern.

What happens with your shoes when you’re finished?

Some are collaborations or commissions and so they go off to the person who worked with me on them.

Some I keep and some I gift.

What was your favorite project so far and why?

It could have been the Safaristar, because time was not an issue on them and they were for me. The Hipology Pro Model is a conten­der, because they were for a musical hero of mine. But, I think my favorite hasn’t dropped yet and it is my favorite because of whom it was for and the people involved in it. Everyone involved in the project gave their talent and time for free and for the love of Hip-Hop! Lots of really cool people came together because some very young talent inspired them.

Any plans for the future?

I have a few unfinished projects such as another pair of NB 1500 and some vintage pieces I want to work with and areas for personal development that I want to spend time on. I am interested in other areas of fashion, art and design, including printmaking and textiles.I have designed a sneaker related product and have been talking with a German manufacturer about production. I also want to go back into designing and delivering workshops. But my time is limited and it is a struggle to fit everything in sometimes. Never enough hours in the day!

The VOR shoe you recently did was quite unusual in terms of taking a very simple shoe and changing it to something else.

Yes, indeed. The VOR guys are all about attention to detail, innovation and premium materials. I had to hook up with them. I knew the leather would be amazing and it was. I saw that retro’d sole as the fruit of a banana. I had seen a Facebook friend’s post of various West Indian plants and was struck by the variegated leaf pat-

A Vans Retrospective by @pil lowHEAT T he C hanging of the G uard T he time is 1976. The place is Southern California. The legendary Z-boys of Dogtown have revolutionized skateboarding from a ’60s sidewalk-based recreational 1st gen. Van Guard in original box, white M.

paradigm into an attitude and style-driven form of self-expression on banks, in pools, bowls and parks. Tony Alva and Stacy Peralta having adopted Vans deck shoes as their uniform of choice at the time, personally helped design one of the first examples of skate-specific footwear. Van‘s Style #95 (Era) came with added reinforcement & infused with this aforementioned attitude & style. The “Off the Wall” exploits of like-minded kids however called for even greater pro­tection from knocks & jettison decks and necessitated a design which captured that fleeting moment in time.

ga zin e Jul y 19 78 ad , Sk ate bo ard er Ma 1st ge n. Va n Gu ard SNEAKERS 2/2014

As such, the Vans ankle guard was born. A

and their Sk8-hi‘s as vert skating fell by the

design which has since been forgotten and

curbside. But that’s another story entirely.

now travels under the RADar! The 70‘s Van Guard vinyl prototype was a If you‘ve ever been on the receiving end

velcro strap-on design featuring the Off The

of a flying skateboard to the ankle you

Wall logo, available in four sizes and three

know that this can become your Achilles

colors for $8. It was worn over your socks,

heel, so to speak. Inventor & engineer

under the foot with the rear pulled down

James Van Doren of the Van Doren

over the shoe and utilized less as a brace

Rubber Company saw the potential of a

and more as a guard against direct

device offering maximum ankle protection

trauma. Worn by the likes of Stacy Peralta

and decided to clear that gap in the

and Rene Carrasco, from all reports it was

market. In 1977, Jim applied for a patent

more desirable than a swollen (c)ankle but

for his Van (ankle) Guard. Without a doubt

was cumbersome to wear.

it was vanguard & experi­mental in spirit.

However, it was questionable, whether it

I tracked down Rene of the famous flying

was an avant-garde breakthrough at the

Carrasco brothers, seen on the next page

forefront of development. By this time,

on the set of the Wonder Woman TV series

Vans had already released the athletically

in Van Guards. He performed in thousands

advanced Style #36 (Old Skool) & the

of demos for the Pepsi skate team from

short-lived Style #37 (Mid Skool) but one

1977-1981. He speaks highly of the Van Gu-

must understand that this was a time

ard for freestyle skateboarding when kick-

preceding high tops – long before Jordan

flipping an 8-wheeler – „those things really

1‘s, before the popularity of the Blazer &

saved my ankles. But I only wore red ankle

before the Style #38 (Sk8-hi)! Ironically,

guards!

it was only a short decade later that kids were instead cutting down their full Cabs

curse their absence. It‘s interesting though, because by the time BMX was flourishing, The Van Guard was prominent during the

the Style #38 and other high-tops were

skate-dominated era of the late 70‘s, howe-

readily available. But we are talking 80‘s

ver it was not used exclusively within skate-

BMX, remember. An era of showmanship,

boarding. Shortly thereafter another “off

head-to-toe factory flavor and let’s not for-

the wall” SoCal pastime was seemingly in

get the stylized arena of freestyle BMX (with

its infancy and about to dominate the next

its ankle implications). Fittingly then, in the

decade, bringing with it ankle-breaking style

case of the second generation ankle guard

& ushering in a changing of the guard.

the OTW logo was gone as was the vinyl, replaced with canvas in solid red or navy or

There have been moments whereby I

four colors of checkerboard.

happen upon some old school BMX footage or images in pure disbelief. “What are those unusual checkerboard high tops Tim Judge rocks above the tabletop?” Upon closer inspection, they were identified to be second generation Vans Ankle Guards and it was within the burgeoning realm of bicycle motocross in which they saw greatest use!

Perhaps ankle dexterity is less important on bike than on skateboard but if you ever smash your ankle on the crank you will

SNEAKERS 2/2014

Stacy Peralta not in Vans, but in Vans Van Guard, Hester series contest Pipeline Upland 1978

Ankle guard US patent US D251937 S filed November 28 1977 by James L Van Doren

Go Jammin' In Vans!

Van Guard product review, Bicycle Motocross Action December 1979

Sty les of the '70 s, Ska teb oar der Ma gaz ine Sep tem ber 197 8

Van Guard BMX ad, Bicycle Motocross Action August 179 Jamie Lester Daffy's in Van Guards, Skateboarder Magazine November 1979

Ren e Car rasc o (far righ t) & on 1 set for Won derw oma n epis ode

Sty le #95 che cke rbo ard sce ne, can vas & ank le gua rd, cou The Oth er Sid e Of The Pil rte sy low

Tim Judge table-topping in 2nd Gen. ankle guard

2nd Gen. Vans Ankle Guard, courtesy The Other Side Of The Pillow

2nd Gen. Vans Ankle Guard unworn, courtesy The Other Side Of The Pillow

Woody Itson in Vans Ankle Guards & Mike Buff

Just as quickly as the ankle guard arrived on the scene, in a similar fashion, it disappeared, resigned to become a ke rbo ard @ pil low He at in ch ec , an kle ne sce , ns Sty le #9 8 va gu ard , Pa ris 201 3

fossil of the bygone daze. But here, under the RADar, we relish those very relics, which are scene but not herd! On this occasion, a relic, which captures an unguarded moment in the explosive Vans canon, whereby a company almost admits to the limitation of a low-top while at the same time masterminding the most genius technique of up-selling of all time!

Delia & Rene Carrasco with his original Vans ankle guard from his time with the Pepsi skate team in 1978

Don‘t sleep on ‌ the other side of the pillow www.theotherothersideofthepillow.blogspot.com

SNEAKERS 2/2014

Interview

SNEAKERS 2/2014

As some of you might know, we were part of the 2009 “Outerspace Sneaker Expo” that took place during “The Brandery” tradeshow in Barcelona. We, the “Turnschuhzuhälter”, showcased about 700 pairs of sneaker history. During the exhibition, lots of people from the fashion biz came by to check it out, even Jordi Portabella, the mayor of Barcelona. But due to the fact that the venue wasn’t open to the public, no real sneaker heads were able to come by. It was kind of sad because we built up the whole thing with so much passion, but there were few people with the knowledge and background to appreciate what we were doing. There was hardly any feedback or reaction from most of the visitors. That is, until the show’s closing day, until the moment we started packing up. One excited guy showed up and took pictures of every single shoe displayed, all with a big smile on his face. I got to talk to him and he pulled out his mobile to show me pics of his vintage sneaker collection, which immediately caught my attention. He was none other than Luis Miguel Lozano, also known as “Jumi” – Spain’s greatest collector of vintage sneakers.

Text: Tony Toupet Photos: Juan Canicio

A n I nterview with S panish C ollector L uis M iguel L ozano

Interview

Hola Luis, I‘m really proud that we have

By that time I was just following the “Tour

you in the magazine for an interview and a

de France”, and that day it had stopped

stunning insight into your impressive

in Barcelona. Luckily, I’d read an article

collection.

about your sneaker exhibition in the daily

Hello Tony! It‘s my pleasure to share my

newspaper, so I decided to leave the tour

passion with you and your readers.

for a moment and tried to check out even more important things! Of course I didn‘t

The first thing I‘d like to ask you is – I

have a pass for the tradeshow and it was

was always wondering how you found out

almost closing time when I finally showed

about the Sneaker Expo and, even more

up. So I decided to show some pics of my

interesting, how did you manage to get into

collection to the guards at the entrance and

“The Brandery” as it was not open to the

they let me go in – once inside, I met you!

public?

SNEAKERS 2/2014

If you showed them the same pictures you showed me, than it‘s more than fair that they let you in! Would you please be so kind to give us a little introduction?

Sure. I was born in 1976, so I grew up during the 80s and got infected by the sneaker virus in my very early subconscious years, due to all the iconic designs made in that era. I seriously started collecting vintage sneakers in 1998 when I tried to find a pair of OG Nike Air Jordan 1s, metallic blue on white, which I owned as a kid and wanted back so badly. After I digged up this masterpiece, I tried to get all the kicks I’d had back in the 80s.

Interview

SNEAKERS 2/2014

I guess your preferred era is obvious, but as your collection includes various types of shoes, could you define your favorite style?

That‘s kinda tricky. You‘re right, my decade of choice is the 80s, or even more precisely 1982 until 1987. As I said, I just love the kicks which were released when I was a kid. Nevertheless, once I started collecting I realized that those from the 70s were also awesome. So I started getting interested in older ones, too.

Basically we could say that my collection consists of sneakers from 1972 to 1993.

Ranging from spikes to basketball shoes Wow, quite a hard one to start a collection with. Even back then or actually even MORE if you compared the possibilities people have today. But if you only search for sneaks you had in your childhood days, you must have been a happy shorty in the 80s with all these great kicks?

Hahaha, no of course I haven‘t had all those models I own now. But you know how it is, the more you get into it, the more incredible shoes come back to your mind or suddenly pop up, which you need to get next urgently! So one pair followed the other and I just haven‘t stopped until now.

and including models of more than 20 different brands.

I know this is another hard one, but if you had to break it down to one brand, which one would it be?

I think that the most important feature of my collection is the big variation in styles and brands. Almost every pair I own is down for a certain reason and that reason is linked to “recuerdos de mi infancia” – to my childhood memories! But at the end of the day, if I really had to choose ONE brand, only – I would definitely say Nike.

Their designs have always been one step above the rest, period!

Interview

By taking a look to your set up, it‘s not hard to see that Converse plays another major role. That’s a fact I really like because besides the “All Stars” you don‘t see much vintage Cons in collections – on top of that I‘m a big fan and collector of Converse myself.

Yeah, you are right. I really love their basketball shoes. They were the pioneers of that part of the game so I have great respect for their designs. Apart from that, Converse was a really powerful brand in Spain during the 80s. Back then models such as Weapon, Startech or Cons were some of the most valuable sneakers. So I can truly say that Converse has an important meaning within my collection.

Of course there is no interview without the mandatory question about your holy grail – what is it?

That‘s an easy one and not really difficult to guess – my favorite model or grail is of course the Nike Air Jordan 1 metallic blue!

As it was my first important sneaker when I was a kid and the one model, which it all started with in ‚98. So without this one, my collection wouldn‘t have made real sense.

SNEAKERS 2/2014

Interview

There is no doubt that you have an im-

I totally agree with that, I just love the

pressive amount of sneakers, but is there

Converse Lydiard Equinox from 1985 for ex-

still anything you want to hunt down?

ample. What do you think in general about

At the moment I don‘t have a special

the evolution of the true vintage market?

interest in any model. I already own every

Over the last few years I noticed that there

pair that I ever dreamt of a few years ago.

is a tendency to reject all those models that

But this doesn‘t mean that I don‘t want

are not wearable anymore. So from a

more, hahaha. Of course there are still

vintage collectors point of view that‘s truly

models I have on my mind. But I can still

a crime. People disregard the true roots

sleep well even without owing them. I‘d

and overrate the models from the 90s,

like to get a pair of Nike Hawaii for

even if those models had little relevance

example, you know how it is – the

back then and don‘t deserve the attention.

collecting cosmos is just endless.

But that’s another point – everybody has to judge on his own!

As you have a very wide range of brands and different styles, I‘d like to know what is

Another thing which I want to know –

the most underrated sneaker in your eyes?

where did you got most of your treasures

Let me think, there are a lot of underrated

from? I am pretty sure you digged out some

sneakers from the different companies. As

nice stocks somewhere in the Spanish

we said before. Converse in general. All

countryside in the early days, right?

their models from the 70s and 80s, like

Indeed, I found some stocks in Spain and

Starion, Startech, Spectre or Cimarron

the rest of Europe. For example, in an old

didn‘t get the attention they deserve in my

store on the Canary Islands where I got

eyes. Which is kinda cool for me, because it about 30 pairs from. On my way back, the makes it easier to get my hands on them.

SNEAKERS 2/2014

damn police stopped me when I was about

to pass through the customs control. They accused me of trading with fakes as they didn’t know the way Nike used to tag the shoes back in the days. I had to fight a little bit until they let me go, but in the end I brought them home. Just last week I digged out something cool! I was in Los Angeles on a vacation trip and I got lost in the city somehow. I just entered a shop for asking how to go back to the hotel. It wasn’t even a sneaker store, rather a ladies fashion shop, really old and dusty.

Interview

As I was talking to the owner, I realized

Luis, I just have to ask you about the

there were some vintage Baby Nike boxes

girls, as they caught my attention almost as

right behind her. I asked her and she told

much as your pix you showed me back in

me she used to sell baby shoes in the past.

Barcelona! Professional models or parts of

Of course I asked if she had more. And

your personal collection? Haha…

guess what – I got like 20 nice pairs of

Well, let me introduce you to Marta, Yolan-

Cortez, Alpha Force, TycroPlus, Bongo and

da, Irene and Isabel. They are all carefully

also some nice Nike socks made in USA! It

chosen models. Not only because they are

must have been Sneaker-Karma because it

great looking, BUT because I wanted them

happened totally

to be related to sneakers somehow. As an

unplanned.

example, I can tell you that one of the girls owns a collection of more than 50 pairs of

DAMN! Hope you know who is a very big Cortez fan? But taking it from vintage to

vintage sneakers herself! They did a great job and I want to thank them.

present – what is going on with the Spanish sneaker scene?

Just make sure you send me their email

Apart from what you told me, you know in

addresses and the behind the scenes pics,

Barcelona, like the “24 Kilates” guys, there

like you promised! Luis, it‘s been an honor

is a pretty healthy sneaker atmosphere all

talking to you about our passion and I‘d like

over the country. There are plenty of collec-

to thank you very much for the opportunity

tors and stores such as “Edonora” (Bilbao),

to check out your vintage treasures.

“Paxanga” (Valladolid) or the legendary

Thank you for your interest in my

“Tutiplein” (Murcia). All of them are ma-

collection. Hope everyone enjoys it! Also,

naged by real sneakerheads. And of course

big thanks to my mother as she was the

there are lots of specialized sites and

one who started it all by buying me my

forums such as www.sneakercollector.es.

very first pair of Nikes.

SNEAKERS 2/2014

SNEAKERS 2/2014

» FILA« FX 100 Low

F

ür FILA könnte das Jahr 2014 vielversprechend werden, denn die Marke hat in diversen Bereichen

ein aus­gezeichnetes Archiv. Das Basketball

Segment hat klassische Modelle wie den FX 100 zu bieten, aber auch 90s-Tech wie den FILA 95 (Grant Hill), dazu noch Running­schuhe wie den Overpass und natürlich auch würdige Styles des weißen Sports wie den Original Tennis. Momentan sind einige der genannten Schuhe nur in den USA erhältlich, dieser schicke FX 100 Low wird aber ganz regulär in Deutschland verkauft. In diesem Sinne: How do you FILA?

»K1X« Cali Sweat

›P

lay hard, don’t embarrass our products‹ – so der Claim, den ihr auf allen Schuhen von K1X

lesen dürft. Im Falle dieser Calis im Sweater-

material müsst ihr euch allerdings weniger unter Druck gesetzt fühlen. Die Nation of Hoop gibt euch ausnahmsweise für beide Farbwege – heather grey und heather red – die hochoffizielle Erlaubnis zum Off-CourtChillen.

SNEAKERS 2/2014

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» Element« Catalina & Bannock Elite

H

aben wir in unserer letzten Ausgabe noch rege­l­rechte Outdoor Wanderschuhe von Element bewundern dürfen, wird es nun doch spürbar sommerlicher. Für die Marke mit dem Baum im Logo beginnt die warme Jahreszeit mit casual Styles aus Canvas, die genauso erdig und authentisch rüberkommen, wie wir es von Element gewohnt sind. Kaum zu glauben, dass die 1992 von Johnny Schillereff ins Leben gerufene Firma einst als Graffiti- und Hip-Hop-inspiriertes „Underworld Element“ begonnen hatte – elementares Sneaker-Hintergrundwissen, sozusagen.

P l a y i n g w i t h t h e La w s o f Le g o Photos: Manuel Mittelpunkt Concept & Art Direction: Ursel Barwinski

SNEAKERS 2/2014

Lacoste Lite SC Runner

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Converse Cons Arizona Racer

SNEAKERS 2/2014

VANS OLD SKOOL

SNEAKERS 2/2014

Boxfresh STERN

Photos & Text: Holger von Krosigk

Interview

SNEAKERS 2/2014

T h e F a m i ly ColleCtion Visiting Dutch Collector Rod Runners Rod Runners, whose real name is Dennis, lives in the Netherlands and has an impressive collection of running shoes. But whereas most of them are OG models aged 20 or older, Rod himself has successfully “retroed” himself into his two year old son Eli. And while the little one has just learned to walk, his father has already bought some of the most beautiful models for him an all different sizes. In order to check out the complete “minime” madness, we visited Rod to take a look at some of his models and ask him about his passion.

Interview

H

i Dennis, before we start, can you tell us the secret of your name? Why

And which pair got you “hooked”?

I remember the years I was playing

Rod Runners?!

basketball and I had a teammate whose fa-

When the whole internethype came up in

ther bought him every single Jordan shoe

the 90s I used to be very active on the file

that came out. I was envious of him having

sharing part. Rod‘s been my nickname for a

these J’s on his feet. The ones that I vividly

long time. For my facebook account, I

remember are the white Jordan V Fire Red

needed two single words. So I combined

from 1990. For many years it was my grail,

this name with my passion for runners and

but it slowly died when this whole Jordan

so it became Rod Runners.

bullshit hype began. By bringing out the two retro models and seeing an overkill

Passion for runners sounds good. Do you

of people wearing them it took away a lot of

still remember the first pair of sneakers you

the magic. During most part of my teen

ever had? What were they?

years I always had nice “brand” shoes, but

I remember a couple of pairs when I was

I didn’t start collecting them. I didn’t have

young. I remember I had a pair of Nike

much time and money because I was al-

Cross Trainer III Low white/infrared in

ready playing handballon a higher level and

1990. I was 9 years old back then. I also

in the national youth teams. I trained like

remember I used to wear a lot of Lottos

five times a week so at that time I had only

and Kangaroos in this time period. I played

handball on my mind. I really started coll-

basketball in Converse Weapons in a white/

ecting seriously in the early 00’s when I

green colorway. I have to say I preferred

had a part-time job at Coach Sports. I used

to wear Jordans at that time but mom and

to sell all the “good shaped” AM1 models. I

dad didn’t want to spend that amount of

remember the Air Max 1 Chili and Jewel.

money and you had to import them from the states.

SNEAKERS 2/2014

I noticed that most of the stuff you have is worn. What’s your philosophy when it comes to wearing vs. clean on the shelf?

I wear all my shoes. Regardless of the price I paid for them or their “street value”. To be honest, It would frustrate me to only watch those beautiful pairs lying in their boxes. In my opinion, shoes are made to hug your feet, to use the old “Hua” marketing term, that’s exactly what I do. But I always try to double up on some of my favorite pairs.

Interview

You also mentioned that part of your coll-

a little out of hand fast. My son Eli is only

ection is at your parents’ house. It’s a com-

one and a half years old but he already got

pletely different generation, what do they

more heat than most adults (haha). The

think about your obsession?

thing is, most of these pairs I buy for a fair

My mother doesn’t collect anything but as

prices from friends. And I always think:

long as I keep it in my old room it’s all fine.

“sooner or later I have to buy pairs this

She says this collecting/trade thing is so-

size, so why not buy them now, I can

mething that comes from my dad’s part of

always sell them!” Most of his pairs are

family. My grandpa used to collect music

OGs because they are just 100 times

tapes and had a huge collection. He

better than what comes out today. I

recorded many things from the radio

collected some basketball models like baby

back then. My father has some sort of fly

Forces, Jordans, tennis models like the baby

fishing obsession. Over the years he

and also collected many great runners like

became a pretty well known fly tyer and

OG scream greens, Challenge Court

fly fisher in Holland and he spends most

(Agassi models) and also some other

of his time making new flies for his trips

brands like Asics, Le Coq Sportif and

and doing exhibitions and such. I never

Kangaroos.

asked him straight away but I know he understands the passion one can have

We all grew up with our parents not

for something. Fact is, both my parents are

buying us our favorite shoes – and now we

always supportive and I’m very grateful for

compensate. With your son, you do the op-

this.

posite. What if he hates sneakers, especially vintage?

You also have an impressive kids shoes

Haha, my mom and wife asked me the

collection in different sizes etc – the boy

same question. I will be supportive in wha-

has a dream life ahead of him. Why did you

tever he wants to wear when he is growing

already collect for him, what’s the story?

up. Right now he wears what I put on his

Yeah this new “collecting baby shoes” got

feet, since he is too young to decide himself.

SNEAKERS 2/2014

Interview

But when he’s old enoughand tells dad he

when my son Eli was born. In the end,

doesn’t want to wear these vintage kicks

we’re talking about shoes and there are

and rather the same pairs as his friends

much more important things I life. I

then I will support him 100 %. I guess

decided some time ago I only buy pairs I

I will hold on to most of the pairs he has

really love the most and all others can go.

worn and put them in boxes so he can

By trading and such I pay for my hobby

check them out when he’s older.

and cash f low never has been an issue for me to be honest. Hope to keep it this way.

Which shoe would you like to see him in the most? Has he already had some heat on

You obviously have shoes in all sizes ima-

his feet?

ginable – which size do shoes look best in?

Difficult question. I really love these baby

Best looking size is hard to tell because it

Jordan 1985 and the white baby Jordan 6

goes hand in hand with the looks the best

infrared from 1991. But he is also wearing his

on feet. Further on it’s hard to beat a good

Huarache scream greens and baby forces

looking girl wearing some vintage heat

at this moment. I just really love just

with style (laughs). And of course since

watching him wearing this heat when we

I’m a dad myself I love to see kids wearing

go out together. If you don’t have any kids

OG heat.

it’s hard to understand, but it’s the best feeling trust me.

What are your favorite kids shoes and why?

Kids change the perspective on life. Does

I have not a single favorite shoe for kids.

he make you question the whole sneaker

I love the baby Forces and baby Huara-

thing? Do you sometimes have a bad feeling

ches. Also I really like the OG baby Jordans.

spending money on shoes because you’re a

When we look at the bigger sizes I love the

father with more responsibility?

runners on the picture.

Yes, obviously my perspective changed

SNEAKERS 2/2014

You’re of course a great hustler, always dealing with shoes. What’s the craziest, saddest or funniest story connected to a sneaker purchase online?

»The fact that the shoe is already 20+ years old makes it very special for me to wear them. It’s just a mindfuck I guess but that’s how it works for me.«

I got a couple of nice stories but the one I will always remember is buying the Adidas ZX 9000 Wood Wood and CT for 120 each inDS condition with original box when they were long sold out. I paid instantly and looked at the pictures again and discovered the Undefeated x Puma 24k Mid Gold in the middle of some other pairs – 72 pairs worldwide. He told me he had won it from a contest from SNS and sold it to me for 90 euro. Needless to say what I did with this pair, hahaha. That was a great day and I will always remember it.

Interview

SNEAKERS 2/2014

OG or retro? The question is probably

You’re a huge Nike fan, no doubt about

easy to answer for you. What if all you have

that! What else do you find interesting?

comes out perfectly executed as retros in

I really love many brands to be honest. For

the same quality?

me the design, color way and shape just

OG hands down! I will always choose an

have to go hand in hand with each other.

OG above a retro. The fact that the shoe is

But likesaid before, just liking a shoe is not

already 20+ years old makes it very special

reason for me anymore to cop it. I really

for me to wear them. It’s just a mindfuck

have to have this WOW feeling. Also you love

I guess but that’s how it works for me. I

the Huarache. What is it about the shoe

must say that lately some great retro models

you love and which Hua is your favorite?

came and come out like the support and

OG Huaraches are one of my favourite

Integral from Adidas and Puma with their

shoes. They fit very comfortable and you

XT1 & 2 Plus. But there are more brands

either love or hate the model. I love the

making a comeback. Be sure to keep an

shape and the futuristic style of the shoe.

eye out on Pony. This NYC founded brand

I mean it’s timeless and they were

has been gone for quite some time, but the

brought out over 20 years ago. It’s crazy

guys from Pony got some tricks

just thinking about it. My favorite pair is

up their sleeves in the future.

the Purple Punch and second the Scream Green. Square tags above the rest! This magenta/neon two-tone colorway is a banger as well.

»Most of his pairs are OGs because they are just 100 times better than what comes out today.«

Interview

We also talked about your handball career? You were super good, right? What are your best memories from that time?

I started playing handball at 9 years old after I’d quit playing basketball. Sports was always really important in our family. Both my mom and dad were sports (PE) teachers and my younger sister went on to become a professional ballet dancer in Berlin and Vienna. Best handball memories of my youth time playing handball was the first time we as team became national champions.

For me it was like winning the champions league, I was super happy. I get a smile just thinking about it. Ano-ther great memory is when Fabian van Olphen, captain from SC Magdeburg in the Handball Bundesliga, and I were around 16 years old and we

Has sports triggered your passion for

travelled every Wednesday three hours to

sneakers? And how?

All for the love of the sport. Also I remem-

Yes it was my teammate from my basket-

ber when I was 26 years old, playing in

ball team who triggered my passion wearing

Germany in 2007, my parents came to visit

the white OG Jordan V 1990. I should still

for the first time and I remember we were

buy an OG pair of them, maybe in the

playing a great match and won from the

future.

team ranked above us. Our supporters went nuts and I saw my parents enjoy-ing every second of it. Will always remember this.

SNEAKERS 2/2014

Top 5 sneakers of all time?

making deals online. Sooner or later

Hard to tell!

reveals itself when you lie to or scam peo-

1. Nike Devlin AC

ple. Buyers please make sure the one from

2. Nike Huarache Purple Punch

who you buying is legit. I would also like

3. Nike Air Base II

to give a shootout to Nick Da Quick,

4. Nike Air Pegasus 1989

Hubbie, Neiko, Smair Max, Clyde, Amelie,

5. Nike Target

Marc and Thomas from Overkill, Daniel from Asphaltgold, Benni and Torben from

Latest purchase?

Foodt & my friends from Paris: Ben,

Nike Journal 1990. Thanks goes out to my

Mehdi, Costa, No The Drifter. Sorry for the

friend Bluntchy from Madrid.

ones I forgot to mention. Thanks for the good times we had and those to come. You

What is still missing in your collection?

can follow me through Instagram:

Like a lot of OG runner enthusiasts like

Rodrunners or Facebook: Rod

me, the Nike Air Base 2 ACG colorway. A

Runners. Dennis Rodman and Rod Run-

mystery hangs over this shoe. I never had

ners are two different persons wich happen

it confirmed by anyone if they were made

to have to same first name in real life.

in bigger sizes. Biggest size I came across was a US 9 or 9.5 and I wear US10.5/11. It could be a Japan exclusive from the 90s I don’t know. If anyone has more info feel free to drop it.

A parting message to our readers?

Be an honest buyer and be an honest seller.

Unfortunately lately it has become worse and worse of people who apparently having low standards and norms when it comes to

Fotos: Holger von Krosigk

Stammtisch

SNEAKERS 2/2014

B ob by Schรถne Da ni el

Flo Dirk Pue

Felix Joachim

Ye ll e

Elias Claudia

Michi

Ma rc

Stammtisch

H

allo Jungs und danke für die großartige Einladung. Als „Schuhstädtler“ habt ihr ja einen Ruf zu verteidigen. Wie geht ihr mit dem enormen Druck um?

Marc: Uns ist schon bewusst, dass Pirmasens und Umgebung bis vor einiger Zeit der Nabel der deutschen Schuhindustrie war, wodurch wir schon eine gewisse Verantwortung spüren. Druck ist das aber nicht. Was andere über uns denken, ist uns egal.

Pue: Ich glaube, dass es in keiner anderen Stadt in Deutschland mit 40.000 Einwohnern einen Sneakerstammtisch von 15–20 Leuten gibt – das muss schon irgendwie mit der alten Schuhindustrie zu­ sammenhängen. Schuhe haben diese Stadt aufgebaut und wieder kaputt gemacht. Sie sind also ein sehr großes Thema hier. Wir haben das alle mehr oder weniger von klein auf mit- oder eingetrichtert bekommen.

Schöne: Unsere Maxime ist es nicht, andere Stammtische zu überbieten oder ähnliches. Wir treffen uns nur aus der Liebe zur Sache. Es gibt ja definitiv noch andere affine Gruppierungen oder Stamm­ tische, die sich aus den richtigen Beweggründen treffen und mit dem Herzen dabei sind. An der Stelle, Gruß ans Ruhrpott Chapter!

Die Jungs haben wir ja auch in Dortmund besucht und in der letzten Ausgabe vorgestellt. Ihr tretet nun die würdige Nachfolge an. Aber der Ruf, der euch vorauseilt, bezieht sich nicht nur auf Schuhe. Was zeichnet euch noch aus?

SNEAKERS 2/2014

Flo: Manch einer findet es vielleicht zweifelhaft, aber unser Name ist Programm: Wir sind der asozialste Turnschuhstammtisch Deutschlands und verdammt stolz darauf.

Bobby: Das ist definitiv der einzige Ruf, dem wir überhaupt nachkommen müssen. Und diesen Titel haben wir uns selbst verliehen. Zu Recht! Kann gut sein, dass wir in letzter Zeit aufgefallen sind. Aber auch dazu kann ich nur sagen, wir tun lediglich das, worauf wir Bock haben. Dass das nicht jedem gefällt, ist naheliegend bis erwünscht!

Joachim: Aber am Ende geht es nur um „Schleicher“ und eine gute Zeit. Und außerdem: Wir überbieten nicht, wir überkleben!

Dazu später mehr! Jetzt stellt euch kurz vor: Wie viele seid ihr, woher kommt ihr und wie oft trefft ihr euch?

Schöne: Wir sind 17 Mitglieder. Hauptsächlich „OG Schuhstädtler“, wobei unser Einzugsgebiet mittlerweile über die Region hinaus, von Ravensburg bis nach Köln reicht. Selbst diejenigen, die wegziehen, kommen nicht mehr Von uns los! Wir treffen uns mindestens einmal im Monat, teilweise auch öfter.

Dirk: Einmal im Monat – mehr verträgt meine Leber aber auch nicht!

Marc: Wir haben auch Auswärtstermine.

Bei speziellen Anlässen wie zum Beispiel der Sneakerness oder bei der Eröffnung von „foodt“ in Dortmund senden wir eine Delegation, die uns würdig vertritt.

Stammtisch

Gehen wir mal zurück zu den Anfängen.

Wie kam überhaupt der Gedanke auf, einen Stammtisch zu organisieren?

Bobby: Wir kennen uns alle schon recht lange, teilweise über 16 oder 17 Jahre. Mit einigen der Herren hab ich damals angefangen, durch Deutschland zu fahren, um Schuhe zu kaufen. Zu einem offiziellen Stammtisch wurde es dann vor knapp zwei Jahren, als Marko sich der Sache annahm und dem Ding ’nen Namen gab. Eigent­lich ging‘s damals primär darum, alle Turnschuhinteressierten der Region an einen Tisch zu bekommen.

Schöne: Wir kommen noch aus einer Zeit, in der es beim Schuhkauf das größte Problem war, die lange Zugfahrt hinter uns zu bringen. Das war lange vor Campouts, Checkzeiten und so genannten „secret online releases“.

SNEAKERS 2/2014

Ω Unser

Alkoholstammtisch hat ein Sneakerproblem!µ [ Felix ]

Stammtisch

Joachim: Als ich in Pirmasens Anfang 2011 ankam, um bei KangaROOS zuarbeiten, hing ich öfters bei Bobby ab. Ein Thema dabei war öfters, die ganzen alten „STV“ (das erste deutsche Sneakerforum / Anmerkung der Redaktion) Leute aus der Gegend zusammen zu bringen. An dieser Stelle großen Dank für das Forum an Christian Sachse.

Wir haben ja die „Schuhstadt“ schon angesprochen. Liegt euch der Schuh tatsächlich im Blut beziehungsweise in den Genen?

Flo: Ich spreche jetzt hier mal nur für mich. Ich bin mit dem Thema Schuh aufgewachsen. Mein Opa hat sein ganzes Leben in der Schuhfabrik gearbeitet und meine Oma zu Hause gesteppt. Ich kenne den Geruch von frischem Leder von Kindesbeinen an und irgend­-wie lässt mich das nicht los, denn mein Schwiegervater in Spe hat eine Schuhmanufaktur. Wenn es eine Konstante in meinem Leben gibt, dann ist es der Schuh. Die Schuhfachschule von Pirmasens ist sehr bekannt, wir haben noch immer namhafte Schuhfabriken hier, auch wenn es nicht mehr viele sind.

Du kannst hier Leder- und Textiltechnik studieren, die Gattin eines gewissen Adi Dassler kam aus Pirmasens und ihre Ahnenlinie produziert immer noch Sohlen­ technik für adidas. Last but not least ist KangaROOS hier ansässig. Für ein Kaff geht hier also einiges.

SNEAKERS 2/2014

Ω Um

zwei Dinge kommt

man bei uns nicht herum – Dunks und Roos. µ [SCHÖNE ]

Stammtisch

Bobby: Jeder echte „Schuhstädtler“ meiner Generation weiß, wieLeder und Schuhkleber riecht. Meine Familie hat über zwei Generationen fast nur mit Schuhen zu tun gehabt. Meine Mutter arbeitet noch immer als Modelleurin und kann einen Schuh von Anfang bis Ende bauen.

Claudia: Bei mir liegt das definitiv in den Genen, mein Dadist Ledereinkäufer und eine meiner Omas hat in der Schuh­fabrik gearbeitet. Ich bin also schon sehr früh mit dem Thema Schuhe in Kontakt gekommen.

Marc: Ich bin mit den Themen Schuhe und Leder praktisch aufgewachsen, da mein Vater als Ledereinkäufer für diverse Firmen aus der Umgebung und auch größere deutsche Unter­nehmen tätig war und ist. Zudem war seine Mutter, also SNEAKERS 2/2014

meine Oma, auch in einer Schuhfabrik beschäftigt und hat zu­hause im Keller oft Sohlen geklebt. Des Weiteren war ein Cousin meiner anderen Oma der Inhaber einer Schuhfabrik in meinem Heimatort, die mehrere Jahre die Stiefel für die Bundeswehr hergestellt hat.

Wirklich beeindruckend, wie stark das bei euch verwurzelt ist! Wie geht es denn der Stadt heute, wo die Schuhproduktion größten­-teils nach Asien ausgelagert wurde.

Wie kann man sich das Leben in P-Town vorstellen?

Schöne: Stellt euch das schlimmste Viertel eurer Gegend als Kleinstadt ohne Möglichkeiten zum Ausgehen oder Shoppen vor. Habt ihr? Das ist Hollywood im Vergleich zur Schuhstadt. Viel gibt es hier

nicht. Dafür kann man sehr billig und daher großzügig wohnen.

Wie immer, Vor- und Nachteile ... Sneaker und Schuhe sind hier immer Thema. Beispiel KangaROOS. Viele verstehen nicht, warum unser Stammtisch so sehr auf die Marke abgeht. Aber KangaROOS war schon Bestandteil unserer Kindheit. Jeder der hier groß geworden ist, war sicher mindestens einmal mit seinen Eltern beim Lagerver­kauf. Kindheitserinnerungen gemischt mit einer Prise Lokalpatriotismus ergeben für uns diese Freude an ROOS. Felix: Das Leben in Pirmasens kann man sich als Außenstehender nur recht schwer vorstellen. Ich lebe seit fünf Jahren in Köln und kann daher mit etwas Abstand auf die Schuhstadt schauen. Es gibt hier sehr schöne, aber auch sehr fragwürdige Ecken. Nicht umsonst sieht man hier immer noch jede Menge Luxuskarossen auf der Straße, im Gegenzug haben wir aber auch eine sehr hohe Arbeitslosen­quote und kaum eine Mittelschicht. Die Stadt liegt nah am Pfälzer Wald – es lässt sich hier also sehr gut leben.

Flo: Eigentlich ist das Leben in Pirmasens komplett abgefuckt. Bei uns werden Leichen in Teppiche eingerollt und auf der Straße abgelegt – true story. Aber wenn man damit seinen Frieden geschlossen hat, dann ist es ganz gut. Pirmasens ist keine sehr freundliche Stadt und du musst dich an die direkte Art des gemeinen Pöbels erst gewöhnen.

Pue: Als Schuhinteressierter bekommt man natürlich viel von KangaROOS mit.

Deren Hauptfiliale ist ja hier in der Schuh-

stadt. Zu den Designern haben wir ein gutes Verhältnis und immer mal wieder Kontakt.

Man kennt sich in der Kleinstadt. Ansonsten denke ich, ist es im Zeitalter des Internets, egal wo man wohnt.

Habt ihr einen festen Ort, an dem ihr euch trefft? Wenn ja, warum dort?

Schöne: Ja, haben wir! Genau der Ort, an dem wir uns gerade befinden, das „Bierfässl“. Auch wenn wir ab und an mal eine andere Örtlichkeit aufsuchen, ist es doch nirgendwo gemütlicher, als hier. Hier gibt es die mit Abstand besten Schnitzel der gesamten Gegend und auf Dauer würde uns auch keine andere Lokalität tolerieren!

Bobby: Ja, hier gibt‘s die besten Schnitzel der Welt, wir bekommen den Schnaps zu fairen Flaschenpreisen und wir werden dort so geliebt, wie wir sind!

Heute dürfen wir einen ganzen Abend mit euch verbringen. Bevor wir alles verraten, erklärt doch bitte mal unseren Lesern, wie so ein Abend verläuft.

Marc: Treffen, essen, vernichten.

Bobby: 19:00–20:00 geht‘s los. Als erstes wird Essen bestellt, da wird auch nicht auf die Nachzügler gewartet, klare Regel. Ich empfehle im Zweifelsfall IMMER das Paprika Rahmschnitzel mit Kroketten und für ganz hungrige das Mailänder Schnitzel. Und dann reden wir über alles Mögliche, teilweise auch über Turn­schuhe, aber viel lieber über Leute, die „Sneakers sammeln“. Zwischendurch beschimpfen wir immer wieder uns und die Mütter einzelner anwesender, bis dann irgendwer auf die Idee kommt, den „Mäxl Becher“ zu holen. Dann eskaliert’s recht schnell und wir ziehen

Stammtisch

richtig über die ganzen Typen ab, die sich in den Facebookgruppen so tümmeln! Oft trifft es dabei den RCC oder ähnliche Sammelsurienvon Leuten, die „deep im Game“ sind und mit ihrer „Heat“ glänzen. Irgendwann gegen 1:00 Uhr wirft uns Tommy raus, dann ziehen die Betrunkensten ans nächste Wasserloch und ein Teil geht nach Hause.

Wird während der beschriebenen „Eskalation“ eigentlich nur über Turnschuhe gesprochen? Wie groß wird dieses Thema bei euch geschrieben?

Claudia: Klar ist das Thema bei unseren Stammtischen immer am Start, aber es geht nie nur darum. Es ist wie wenn sich Freunde treffen und zusammen Spaß haben – die Themen sind total querbeet.

Dirk: Natürlich reden wir über neue und kommende Releases, Schuhe die man sich vor kurzem angeschafft hat und so, aber auch über ganz andere Themen. Die meisten von uns kennen sich ja inzwischen auch schon recht lange, daher kommen auch gut und gerne mal alltäglichere Geschichten auf den Tisch.

Schöne: Bei uns geht es, wie eigentlich immer, um alles. Oft wird das Thema auch vom Alkoholkonsum beeinflusst oder vorgegeben!

Felix: Unser Alkoholstammtisch hat ein Sneakerproblem!

Wie sieht es mit dem Schuhgeschmack der einzelnen Mitglieder aus? Bunt gemischt oder uniformiert?

Schöne: Gut gemischt, würde ich sagen!

Wobei man um zwei Dinge bei uns, wohl SNEAKERS 2/2014

nicht herum kommt – Dunks und Roos.

Ich glaube, es gab keinen Stammtisch an dem nicht mindestens ein Dunk vertreten war und ein ROOS ist auch immer am Start.

Flo: Aber im Allgemeinen geht unser Geschmack weg von dem großen Hype Scheiß und hin zu Klassikern. Du sieht bei uns definitiv mehr alte Dunks, Roos oder Ewings als irgendeinen GL III RF Bullshit oder den neuen Air Max Mist.

Bei welchem Thema besteht denn der größten Diskussionsbedarf?

Es werden aktuelle Releases diskutiert, aber auch die letzten Einkäufe und selbstverständlich wird viel gehatet, wie man es vom asozialsten Turnschuhstammtisch Deutschlands erwartet.

Schöne: Jedoch ist kein Thema beliebter und präsenter als Stefans Mutter!

Marc: Und beliebt ist natürlich auch immer, wie scheiße wir irgendeine neue Super-Mega-Hype-Collabo finden.

Kann man Ärger mit den SCHUHSTÄDTLERN haben? Uns sind neulich „Beef“ Gerüchte zu Ohren gekommen.

Felix: Es soll Gruppierungen in der deutschen Sneakerlandschaft geben, die sich von uns angegriffen fühlen, obwohl wir nie gegen die Jungs geschossen haben.

Zwei „gecrosste“ Sticker haben dazu geführt, dass die Postfächer einiger Schuhstädler übergelaufen sind.

Joachim: Meine Beef-Geschichte 2013 war ein echt leckeres Roastbeef. Das war wirklich 1A! Könnte auch am Weber Grill von Weststyle liegen!

Schöne: Beef nicht. Wir teilen nur nicht

Stammtisch

unbedingt die Einstellung oder die Herangehensweise von so manchem Club. Klar, kann man Spaß daran haben, Bilder von seinen Schuhen zu machen! Aber in erster Linie geht es bei Schuhen darum, sie zu tragen. Und das an den Füßen, nicht im Rucksack!

Klare Worte! Wollt ihr eigentlich unter euch bleiben oder hat man Chancen, aufgenommen zu werden? Gibt es ein „Aufnahmeritual“?

Schöne: Ein Ritual als solches gibt es nicht. Grundvoraussetzung ist eine gewisse, nennen wir es, „asoziale“, Grundeinstellung. Diese und Mut zur Blamage sind absolut essenziell!

Marc: Es kommt immer darauf an, ob man in unserer Gewichtsklasse ist und in diversen Bereichen abseits der Schuhwelt mit­halten kann. Ein Aufnahmeritual an sich haben wir noch nicht, ist aber in Arbeit.

Flo: Wollen wirklich Leute bei uns mitmachen? Die einzigen, die das verdient hätten, sind im Pott-Chapter vereint. An der Stelle Grüße dahin. Ihr habt uns verstanden!

Was gibt es über die Stammtischtreffen hinaus? Wie können wir auf dem Laufenden bleiben und was erwartet uns 2014?

Schöne: Wenn ihr das wissen wollt, liked uns auf Facebook. (www.facebook.com/ schuhstaedtler) und folgt uns bei instagram (@schuhstaedtler).

Joachim: Hin und wieder bekommen wir einen Roadtrip hin

SNEAKERS 2/2014

und die PS‘ler gehen öfters auch einfach so einen trinken. Die Weltherrschaft haben wir schon an Schwabarien verloren.

Flo: Generell sind wir ja nicht auf unsern Stammtisch beschränkt. Ihr werdet uns bei vielen Events im Jahr 2014 sehen und hören.

Wir verbreiten weiter unsere passiv-aggressive Botschaft und versuchen, unseren Teil beizutragen. Liebt uns oder hasst uns, aber wechselt auf alle Fälle die Straßenseite, wenn wir kommen.

Heat On Feet

ASICS x HAL Gel Lyte III Mortar

From the very start, our „Heat on Feet“ photo competitions have been a great success.

Entries from all over the world have flooded our website and the voting went crazy every time we approached the decisive deadline. But how would the sneaker community react to a contest limited to just one brand – to an „ASICS-only“ rule that would sweep aside all those Swooshes and stripes? There’s but one answer: the guys went even MORE crazy!

The amount of pictures and the quality of both images and footwear styles exceeded our expec­t ­ations. The pics were brilliant, not only technically, but also in their creativity and tastefulmatching of colors. It’s safe to say that it was the highest level of photography of all the contests we did. And at least for one person, there’s a big reward waiting – in form of a limited edition cover, a huge ASICS package with 12 pairs in total, provided by Afew store in Düsseldorf, and a 250 Euros voucher for a vintage ASICS on Klekt, the Sneaker Marketplace.

You will know who it is, if you follow our Facebook page and website. On May 17, Afew will host an event connected to Düsseldorf’s “Japan Day” and it is there that the winning picture will be first revealed. So until that day, stay calm and enjoy our small „best of“ selection of Heat on Feet – THE ASICS EDITION. SNEAKERS 2/2014

ASICS x WOEI Gel Lyte III Cervidae

ASICS x Ronnie Fieg Gel Lyte III Miami Beach

ASICS x St. Alfred Gel Lyte III ASICS x Concepts Gel Lyte III Three Lies

ASICS Gel Saga Rudolph ASICS x WOEI Gel Lyte 3 Cervidae ASICS x Bait Gel Lyte3 BASICS Model-002 Guardian

ASICS x HAL GT II Bricks

Heat On Feet

ASICS GT II Dutch Pack

ASICS Gel 111

He took part in every HOF comp and always had good shots. This time he’s the winner – Johannes Höhn aka Pangea Productions with an ASICS x HAL Gel Lyte 3 Mortar

ASICS Gel Saga Mint

ASICS Gel Saga

ASICS x Bait Gel Lyte III BASICS Model-002 Guardian ASICS x Ronnie Fieg Gel Lyte V Volcano SNEAKERS 2/2014

ASICS x Nice Kicks Gel Lyte III 2.0

ASICS x 24 Kilates Gel Saga

ASICS x Slam Jam Gel Lyte III 5th Dimension

ASICS x Foot Patrol Gel Saga Camel/Blue

ASICS Gel III Santa ASICS Gel Saga Infrared

ASICS x Ronnie Fieg Gel Lyte III Knicks

Interview

Finsta is no sneaker artist per se.

His imagery isn’t based on classic silhouettes and goes far beyond footwear in its subject matter. But in a striking way, Stockholm local draws inspirations from many of the same roots that reflect in our sneaker culture. Like many others, he began his artistic crusade by applying color to walls, but Finsta moved on to many other fields, even including music, while finishing his master’s degree He’s not only one of the most diversified artists around but one with a unique style. Welcome to the world of Finsta.

SNEAKERS 2/2014

How and when did you start to do just that?

Finsta, some of our readers know you,

I started drawing from day one, and at

but for those who don’t – who are you and

around 15 I got introduced to spray cans

what do you do?

and graffiti. In my small hometown of

Hello, I’m Finsta, a freelance artist from

Lund, there was some graffiti, but most

Sweden. I’m best known for having a per-

writers had moved on to other cities. Graf-

sonal style in graffiti, art and graphics. I

fiti was not really a problem yet. I got a lot

liketo express myself and have fun. I like

of opportunities to paint walls around town

to think, and figure things out.

at daytime, and thenI looked for other walls during the night. Painting walls made a lot of people see my work. This gave me a reputation of being a young promising artist.

Interview

SNEAKERS 2/2014

I don't like the way sneakers evolved into looking like plastic rainbows.

I like simple things.

It’s hard to know how it would be different without that education, but I feel like I draw from it every day. The combination of getting an education and at the same time educating myself made me who I am today. Knowing about graphic design ideas and rules helps me communicate in a more direct and efficient way. Knowing

Can you briefly describe your cultural background? What are the influences that

subcultures makes me communicate in a more interesting, exiting and new way.

shaped you and your art?

I think my style reflects me as a person. It

You also have a striking humor which is

reflects how I am, how I think, and what I

visible in a lot of your work. It’s always a

like. I treat my name and style like a brand

special layer ...

name. I want it to come out tight and

When I do graphics or art, I try to give

professional every time. I want the “brand”

something extra. A hidden joke or a detail

to stand for certain things such as quality,

that will make you think. I express myself

unpretentiousness, originality or coolness.

through styles, ideas and details. It‘s im-

I came up being influenced by subcultures

portant that my art communicates.

like comic books, skateboard graphics and anything cool and funny with an outsider approach.

We, on the other hand, communicate mostly sneakers, which is why we’re interested in your earliest memories. Tell us

Despite that mentioned outsider ap-

your personal initiation rite.

proach, you have a formal education in the

Early sneaker memory is when I put

field – a master’s degree in graphic design

wheels on my Nike basket shoes, around

and illustration. How much do you draw

1993. No one else did that where I come

from that education today?

from.

Interview

And how would you describe your per-

What are the projects that you’ve been

sonal relationship with sneakers? What are

working on lately?

they to you and why are they important?

Ten years ago, I designed a logo for a make

First of all, I think 99 % of all sneakers

believe record label, Pop‘Em records, to put

look like shit. I don‘t like the way they evol-

on shirts. Three years ago, I started produ-

ved

cing music, and decided to make Pop‘Em

into looking like plastic rainbows. I like

real. My latest project is to produce and

simple things. One color, two or maybe

release records under this label, and to do

three, that makes the best shoe for me. I

graphics for all releases. I travel and record

love it when I find new shoes that I like,

artists from all over the world. Right now

because it’s rare. I like Pumas, Vans and

I’m in San Francisco looking for talent.

some occasional skate shoes. I have a few more shoes than I really need but in general, sneaker collecting makes me sick.

Shoes were made to be used, not to be put on a shelf.

On that same note, you seem like a very diversified personality, which is reflected in the many facets of your work.

You do graphics, illustration, animation, graffiti and even fine art. How did that diversification come about?

One thing led to another. Drawings became wall paintings, paintings became animations, animations became music, and so on.

SNEAKERS 2/2014

Finsta, thanks for this interview and all the best for your future.

I came up being influenced by subcultures like comic books, skateboard graphics and anything cool and funny with an outsider approach.

by Dj Noppe

Text: Tony Toupet Fotos: PARWEZ

1985 – „Wetten, dass..?“ oder Bud Spencer

Zumindest waren das meine Gedanken, als

flimmerten in der Glotze, mehr brauchte

ich Andre Agassi zum ersten Mal in seinem

man damals nicht zum Glücklichsein. Doch

da­mals unfassbar geilen

plötz­lich kam „Boom Boom Becker“,

Neon-Nike-Outfit sah. „Abgeschnittene“

gewann das Finale in Wimbledon und

Jeans im „stone-washed“ Look, seine

löste damit in Deutschland einen riesigen

kurzen Trikots und dann DIESE Schuhe! Es

Tennisboom aus. So ein rothaariger Bengel,

folgte die legendäre Paradiesvogel-Affäre

kaum älter als meine Freunde und ich – so

im Saubermann-Sport Tennis! Diese

wollte ich natürlich auch sein. Ich hatte Blut

wirklich geniale Werbekampagne

geleckt und versuchte mich nebst

schien von Nike extra nur für MICH

einfachem gegen die Wand spielen in

gemacht worden zu sein – ich musste

meiner Siedlung hin und wieder sogar auf

diese Kollektion haben! Nach kurzem Hust-

einem richtigen Tennisplatz. Nach einiger

le konnte ich mich zum Glück bei Sport Neu-

Zeit verblich mein Interesse am weißen

gebauer im Tegel-Center auch mit allem

Sport aber wieder. Es war mir alles zu clean

Nötigen eindecken. Von diesem Zeitpunkt

und unser frühes Idol Boris einfach zu glatt.

an rockte ich das Out­fit zum Tennis, auf

BMX und vor allem Skaten hatten mich in

dem BMX und auch beim Skaten.

ihren Bann gezogen und waren weitaus

Drei Fliegen miteiner Klappe, das war

mehr Rock 'n' Roll als Pullunder und Tennis-

damals auch meine Argumentationstaktik,

club. Trotzdem faszinierte mich weiterhin

um meiner Mutter die Kohle dafür aus den

dieses Tennis Wettkampf-Ding, dieses

Rippen zu leiern.

„1 gegen 1“ und vor allem die Schnelligkeit.

Spätestens nachdem aber wirklich jeder in meiner Gegend dann mit dem BB-Jogginganzug rumrannte, war die ganze Nummer für mich stylemäßig komplett gestorben.

So gegen ’88 tauchte dann plötzlich dieses neue US-Kid auf. Lange Matte, große Klappe, vermutlich Frauenheld und noch dazu mit Streetwear auf dem Tenniscourt!

Die größte Überraschung hat mir neulich aber Klaus, der Vater eines Freundes von früher gemacht, den wir damals auch mit dem Agassi Fieber angesteckt hatten. Er hat mir sein ungetragenes Zweitpaar OG Tech Challenges von 1989 vermacht – deadDas Coole und Tragische zugleich war aber,

stock aus seinem Kleiderschrank sozusa-

dass die Schuhe wirklich her­-vor­ragend zum

gen. Auch wenn ich sie wegen Brösel­alarm

Skaten funktionierten, dementsprechend

natürlich nicht mehr tragen kann, werden

schnell waren sie dann leider auch schon

sie immer einen Ehrenplatz neben dem

wieder runtergerockt. Diverse weitere Agas-

Trikot, meinem GT BMX und meinem Old

si Modelle folgten, aber irgendwie hat es mir

School Skateboard haben.

keiner mehr so ange­tan wie der Air Tech Challenge. Als vor ein paar Jahren das erste

Wir trafen DJ Noppe (Donnerstag im Felix,

Retro davon herauskam, war selbstver-

Freitag im Avenue) im Asphalt, wo er

ständlich klar, dass ich diese Schuhe unbe-

samstags Resident DJ ist.

dingt wieder brauchte. Sport Neugebauer war zwar leider schon lange Geschichte, aber das stellte natürlich keine größere Hürde dar. Das Original Trikot von damals habe ich aber tatsächlich immer noch und ziehe es aus Nostalgiegründen auch manchmal noch zusammen mit den Retros zum Auflegen im Club an. Bei Veranstaltungen mit älterem Publikum kommt hin und wieder sogar mal jemand zu mir und feiert das Outfit genauso ab wie ich.

» Fortan rockte ich das Outfit zum Tennis, auf dem BMX und beim Skaten – drei Fliegen mit einer Klappe und genau die Argumentationstaktik, um meiner Mutter die Kohle dafür aus den Rippen zu leiern.

«

© 2014 Bernd Hummel GmbH. „KangaROOS®, ROOS® and the kangaroo device are registered trade marks owned by and used under licence from Asco Group Limited“

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