Sneakers Magazine 24

Nr 24 – 4/2014

NEW BALANCE 1500 Gentleman’s Choice

D& AT: EUR 6 | CH: CHF 9

24 KiLATES Tapas with Spain’s No. 1 ADiDAS X NEigHBORHooD The Collaboration Continues HEAT oN FEET The New Balance Edition K’LEKT Behind the Sneaker Marketplace

LIVING OFF THE WALL: A VANS DOCUMENTARY SERIES OFF THE WALL CHINA ALL THE STORIES:

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DOCUMENTARIAN:

VANS.COM/LIVINGOFFTHEWALL

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Infinite possibilities

adidas.com/originals

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Editorial

T h e S p o rt i n g G o o d s S t o re

Photo: Holger von Krosigk

SNEAKERS 4/2014

Over the last two decades, the sneaker market has been changing in fundamental ways. It’s not just about the kind of shoes you’re into anymore, but also about where you’re buying them. While the exclusive sneaker boutique is our present day’s place to be, the idea isn’t that old. Go back to the 1990s or 1980s and you’re in an entirely different marketplace. Back in the days, there were no specialized sneaker stores. If you wanted to buy an Air Force 1, you were visiting a basketball retailer. To buy an Asics Gel Saga, you were looking for a running specialist. Tennis shoes?

Tennis retailer. If these places didn’t carry the kicks you were looking for, you had to head to a big department store with a large shoe selection. Even at that time, sneakers were already fashionable, but they were still primarily viewed as sports equipment.

This idea has fundamentally changed in the last decade. Over the course of the

Editorial

T h e S p o rt i n g G o o d s S t o re years, the traditional independent sporting

goods store run by 54-year-old basketball

goods store – the owner-operated, non-

enthusiast Otto Heissenberger. From

chain retailer – has almost disappeared

1982 onwards, he managed his shop in a

from the scene. With the oncoming

peculiar way: He never saw the necessity

wave of huge cor­porate chains and the

to sell all of his old stock to make room

increasingly complex online business, only

for new products. He simply kept adding

a few independent retailers have made it far

new stock, without ever doing a large

into the 21st century. Some were swallowed,

clearance sale. We couldn’t believe our

others had to close their doors forever,

eyes when we walked in. It was a mixture

their stock from yesteryear oftentimes

between a store and an old warehouse,

sleeping somewhere in a basement. And

with unbelievable amounts of shoes and

with the closing of these stores came the

apparel stacked in piles from floor to

dream scenario of the vintage hunter. It

ceiling, boxes blocking the aisles. You could

was the idea of tracking down one of these

spend an entire day without seeing half of

stores and convincing the owner to sell his

the inventory. It’s a time capsule, but one

“useless” old stock – hopefully peppered

where you can still go shopping.

with rare classics – at a bargain. This story has happened again and again, but only to

For this issue, we’ve visited this special

a limited number of collectors. Few were

store and we’re dedicating 16 pages to its

lucky and smart enough to pull it off.

story as told by its owner. Enjoy the trip back in time – or simply drive to Austria

Last month, we drove to the easternmost

and see for yourself.

corner of Austria, close to the Hungarian border, to visit Basketsports. It’s a sporting

SNEAKERS 4/2014

Holger von Krosigk

1

3 2

4

6

5

Cover Story

New Balance 1500 »The Gentleman’s Choice«

P

icture yourself somewhere in the

it’s never an exception. New Balance are on

Lake District countryside, sipping

your feet, as always under circumstances as

on a pint of fine English ale on

fine as these. To make picking the right shoes

the terrace of an old manor house. You’re

even easier in the future, the New England

passing time – you have plenty of it – before

company has created the “Gentleman’s

being picked up to go clay pigeon shooting.

Choice” pack, a premium leather product

The game of tennis you played in the morning

“Made in UK”. It comes in two colorways,

sun lifted your spirits already. The way you

one pictured here and on our cover, the other

dress reflects your degree of sophistication

one on our limited edition Heat on Feet cover,

and your choice of footwear is no exception;

which only the most cultivated of gentlemen will be able lay their hands on. Flip until page 82 to see the circumstances of this exceptional photo contest.

SNEAKERS 4/2014

Photo: Raphael Schmitz

E L E M E N T P R O U D LY P R E S E N T S T H E E L E M E N T x T I M B E R ! C A P S U L E C O L L E C T I O N AVA I L A B L E FA L L 1 4 - E L E M E N T B R A N D . C O M - T I M B E R P S . C O M @ELEMENTBRAND

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ALL ITEMS ARE AVAILABLE TO SHOP RIGHT NOW VIA SURFSTITCH.COM

NEW BALANCE

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SNEAKER ADDICT

SurfStitch presents a collection of the most talked about sneakers styles for AW14/15. This season there is a strong focus on contemporary running silhouettes which fuse performance fabrics with a more minimalistic aesthetic; key models include : Adidas Originals ZX Flux, Asics Gel Kayano and Nike SB’s Janoski Max trainers.

This technical aesthetic also resonates throughout our autumn streetwear collections, from the likes of Carhartt, StĂźssy and Palace. Watch out for our AW14/15 look book #Urbanescape due to be released in October.

Selected Good Stuff adidas X Run DMC Sweatshirt

Huf Zip Wallet Woodland Camo

Belt by Huf

Y3 Logo Backpack Burton Riggs Cap (Camo)

Crep protect Rain & Stain Spray and Cure Cleaner

Berlin Boombox

g-SHoCK gW-9400-3ER Rangeman

American Apparel Classic Sweatshort

SNEAKERS 4/2014

Stance Socks

Nixon Laptop Sleeve

Huf Triple Triangle Spiral Wash Tee Vans California 5-panel Hat

Reef Lights Cap Looky Looky professional Teen Beanie

Bershka Triangle print Linen Shirt

Nike WMNS Tech Fleece Funnel

Nixon „The Blaster“ (Marbled Camo)

Jawbone Mini Jambox

Bershka Basic Canvas Front pocket Backpack

philips BT3500 Bluetooth Speaker philips Fidelio M1MKiiWT Headphones

Releases

SNEAKERS 4/2014

There’s no other model more connected to

ZX 8000 fall on the same date make this

the history of Berlin and the cold war than

25th anniversary pack almost an obligation.

the ZX 8000; not in the adidas archive at

Everything about this shoe was made in

Herzo, nor in any other brand’s vault. Ori-

Germany. The colorways were inspired by

ginally released in 1989, it marked the dawn

the three most iconic and important cros-

of a new era. Being one of the most advan-

sing points for foreigners and members of

ced running shoes of its time, it became a

the allied forces – Checkpoints Alpha, Bra-

heavy status shoe with a fittingly heavy price

vo and Charlie, their names derived from

tag. Its popularity is unrivalled, especially in

the NATO Phonetic Alphabet. The pack is

the eastern part of Germany. The fact that

dropping at selected stores in October, the

both fall of the wall and the release of the

month of German reunification.

Releases

Karhu is a brand that’s been traveling under a lot of people’s radar in recent years. It’s almost ironic, because all the brands we associate with the running segment are babies compared to the Finnish powerhouse. First introduced in 1916, it gained recognition for good running shoes at a time when the Dassler brothers had barely started producing their first sports shoes. After almost 100 years in the business, Karhu’s bringing back some of its classic models. This one is called “Aria” and was originally released in 1994. It was one of the top running shoes of its time and is coming back for Spring/Summer 2015. Watch out for more Karhu styles and collaborations coming soon.

SNEAKERS 4/2014

Text: Ernie Beckmann Photos: Holger von Krosigk Releases

SNEAKERS 4/2014

By the year 1989, Reebok's Paul Litchfield

Horace Grant. Besides the Pump sys-

had designed a great new innovation for

tem, the shoe featured the ERS cushio-

basketball shoes: the Pump technology. It

ning technology. Since its first drop in

allowed players to completely adjust the

1990, the Omni Zone has been retroed

fit of the shoe by pumping up air bladders

several times but has always kept these

around the midfoot and the ankle. When

key technologies. Adding to the legend,

inflated, they supported the ankle and gave

infamous sneaker boutiques like Hanon,

the player added stability and security. It

Packer, mita sneakers and of course

didn't take long for this big innovation to

Solebox with its legendary LEDs in the

spill over to Europe in this golden age of the side panels have been involved in conNBA in the early 90s, when moving images

tinuing the shoe’s legacy. For the upco-

from the best basketball league in the world

ming Reebok Classic Reserve Collection,

were broadcast around the world for the

the shoe has returned to a classical look.

first time on a regular basis. Watching the

The white leather upper is highlighted

games, you were able to see which brands

by color accents on the sole, the tongue,

and models the superstars were rocking on

the lining and the lacing support. Both

the court. Among the Reebok Pump models

the White / Light Grey / Blood Orange

that left the biggest impression on fans was

and the White /Team Purple / Black

the Omni Zone, worn by several NBA play-

colorways of the Omni Zone will be re-

ers including Chicago's John Paxson and

leased in October at exclusive retailers.

Tennis Classics

The recent comeback of the classic white tennis trainer has opened a new perspective on a few lesser-known chapters in sneakerhistory. One of them has its prelude in 1966, when two World Cup skiers from Switzerland, Art and Ernest Brunner, emigrated to California to found the K-Swiss brand. Both heavily into tennis, the brothers set out to design the white sport’s first all leather athletic tennis shoe. Apparently, the legend of the K-Swiss Classic begins in Wimbledon.

Of course the brand has evolved over the course of the decades. While the early 90s can be considered its golden age of style and innovation, the late 90s were characterized by a more mainstream advertising approach, which many people still feel resonating in their memories. K-Swiss’ recent comeback to the sneaker scene is very promising, especially with the focus on the timeless pieces in the archive, such as the Classic II, pictured here together with the Lozan III. And let’s not forget the activities at the 2014 Solemart in Berlin where the brand presented its future plans including the launch of the famous SI-18. If you like white stripes on white and overall clean tennis styles, check out the limited and exclusive collection for Fall/ Winter.

SNEAKERS 4/2014

Tennis Classics

Even if we all have images of brightly colored

when founder Rene Lacoste swung the

polo piques in our minds, there’s just one

rack. In fact, the company’s first product

color truly associated with Lacoste – pure

was a white shirt, the “Jersey Petit Piqué.

and simple white. The reason is rather The Court Classic range is reminiscent of obvi-ous, as the brand’s history goes back

that time and shows both new and updated

to a time long before the color revolution

models as well as classics such as the René,

in tennis; and white took the center stage

Mr. Lacoste’s signature shoe.

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Casual Highlights

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As we’re approaching the colder season,

included, such as a bamboo lining and an

the Element brand is providing some fresh-

outsole that includes reclaimed rubber. The

looking styles with that outdoorsy vibe only

Preston featured on the right runs outside

an east coast brand can create. As part of

of the Emerald line but includes a few nice

the Emerald Collection, the Hakone is a

details as well, such as hiking laces, a rubber

true highlight. A trail running silhouette, it

mudguard and Sherpa lining. The model has

features an Eco Step Vibram outsole, full

been part of the Element range for some

grain leather reinforcements, an Ortholite

time – a classic chukka style that you can’t

insole and even a breathable air mesh inner

possibly go wrong with.

sock. There are many eco-conscious aspects

Event

SNEAKERS 4/2014

Just two days before the basketball world championships finals, Nike held a basketball event in downtown Madrid.

To call it a “tournament” is a massive understatement; it was a 360 slam dunk on all levels. The teams were invited from all over Europe and consisted of shop or brand teams and crews – no professionals, but guys capable of the baddest moves nevertheless. It was part and highlight of the Nike campaign #searchfor­thebaddest whose impressive social media results you should check.

Event

T

he teams were awe-inspiring, even

Oqium store, and the guys also proved

beyond their pure performance on

that their love for basket­ball doesn’t end

the court. From Germany, there were the

with Jordan OGs – although the Jordan 3

“Beastin Breds”, of course straight out

stays hard to beat in their opinion. Who

of Munich’s Jordan and NSW premium

else? Space 23 from Milan, team Foot

retailer BSTN. The French team was built

Locker and London’s SOHO Knights.

around Pigalle and Kevin Couliau, who

Team Oqium won, but somehow the

did the „Doin’ it in the Park“ movie from

event conveyed the impression that eve-

2012 together with Bobbito Garcia. The

rybody won, especially the crowd, which

winning team came from Amsterdam’s

went wild beside the court.

SNEAKERS 4/2014

The teams played 3x3 and the regular tournament was followed by a dunk contest. For sneaker-heads there yet was another highlight connected to basketball. Behind a giant sneaker sculpture containing an Air Force 1, a Blazer and a Jordan, there was a line-up of history walls forming one of the best exhibitions imaginable. The “Genealogy of Innovation� showcased basketball history from 1972 to 2014. More than 80 very rare OG Nike Basketball and Jordan models were joint-curated by Nike Basketball collector Magdi Fernandez and sneaker professor Gary Warnett, who contributed loads of knowledge and 28000 words to this temporary museum.

Event

The shoes selected by him came from different collectors including our Spanish friend Luis Miguel Lozano whom we interviewed in issue 22. The most famous contributor was AF1 collector DJ Clark Kent, who also had a turntable mission.

Together with Boys Noize he transformed the venue into a proper party location.

Now check out the images and envy us for the trip.

SNEAKERS 4/2014

Select Sneaker Shoot

Diadora X Patta N.9000

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Photography: Holger von Krosigk

Select Sneaker Shoot

New Balance M572 [Elite Edition]

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Select Sneaker Shoot

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Adidas ZX 8000 [Fall of the Wall Pack]

Select Sneaker Shoot

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ASICS Gel Kayano

Select Sneaker Shoot

Nike Kaishi

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Select Sneaker Shoot

Adidas ZX 930

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Select Sneaker Shoot

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Reebok Ventilator

Interview

If you’re truly interested in sneakers, you’ve heard the name. Even more likely you’re already registered. Where? At K’LEKT – the sneaker marketplace that has taken the sneaker world by storm. There are 130.00 unique users on the website every month, generating three million page impressions and uploading 8000 new products, of which 6500 are being sold.

Over the course of just twelve months, K’LEKT has basically shut down every other website dedicated to buying and selling kicks. Facebook groups, ebay or long established competitors are all taking the backseat. Why is it so successful? We’ve asked the two people who should know all about it – Heiko Lanzke and Marius Obiegala, the founders of the website.

SNEAKERS 4/2014

Photos & Text: Holger von Krosigk

The Story of the World’s Biggest Sneaker Marketplace

K’LEKT’s been around for only one year but you guys have managed to establish it as the world’s biggest sneaker marketplace. It’s not just your advertising claim, you really are the biggest and most used website in the game. How did it all begin and why are you so successful?

Marius: Two years ago, Heiko was working in the same advertising agency as me. I remember that he was complaining about ebay fees all the time when we were out for lunch together. There was no real marketplace at the time for sneakers.

Interview

Heiko: Correct. I was heavily into buying,

Sneakers Mag crew, thank you!

selling and trading and the platforms that were there, weren’t really convincing. First

You’re welcome! one of the main

of all, Facebook was never intended to be

advantages is that you don’t have any fees

a marketplace. The other options like eBay

involved. Is that a realistic model for the

were either too crammed and confusing

future? How do you make a living if not

or unattractive due to the high fees. There

from fees?

was a real need for a marketplace. I was

Heiko: K’LEKT is ad-financed – 100 %.

simply unhappy with the alternatives out

The extremely high traffic volume makes

there and wanted to create something new.

it expensive because you need to pay for servers. In addition to that we need to

It seems like you weren’t alone with that feeling …

Marius: There was a real desire and that’s

pay a programmer and somebody else for service, so you can imagine that this adds up. But we’re able to make a profit and it’s

the point. That’s the reasonfor our success

safe to say that our platform will remain

and the reason we’ve been growing so fast.

free.

K’LEKT was something that was missing in the sneaker world. Of course it was a real advantage that Heiko pretty much knows everyone in this scene, he’s super well connected.

Heiko: We were lucky because so many friends, collectors, stores, brands, media

When did you first realize that you’ve created something successful on this scale?

Heiko: After a few weeks we were growing at such a fast pace. We knew that there was a need for it but couldn’t really grasp the full extent of it.

and bloggers have supported us. That

Marius: After six months we saw that

helped us making it popular in such a

the traffic was doubling every two months!

short time. I want to say THANK YOU

That’s insane! Coming back to your

to everyone who supported K’LEKT and

question, that moment was some time in

made it possible. That includes the whole

January when we asked ourselves if this

SNEAKERS 4/2014

was ever going to end or will just keep on going. okay, let’s put it down in numbers. How many users and page impressions? How many shoes are being uploaded per month?

Marius: Every month we have about 130.000 visitors on our website and these people generate more than 3 million page impressions. On average, 8.000 products are being listed every month, 6.500 of them are being sold.

Interview

Wow, impressive! Can you keep on growing at all?

Marius: Of course we can, step by step.

It’s really crazy, there are 100 new users every day and our community and traffic keep on growing at the same pace. We’re becoming more and more professional, which is a logical step.

Heiko: We do know that there’s room for improvement. We have some minor

SNEAKERS 4/2014

bugs here and there and we’re still working on a few functions. But we’re doing our best and there’ll be a big relaunch, which will fill these gaps and improve K’LEKT enormously. Finally, we’ll be able to offer an app, which will facilitate mobile surfing and trading on K’LEKT. That sounds promising! You’re based in Germany, but where do the majority of your users come from?

Marius: K’LEKT is an international marketplace. Most of the users are coming from Europe, especially from Germany, France and England, but also Poland and Netherlands. But we’re also growing quickly in the US. Another big difference between K’LEKT and, for instance, eBay is that you’re only connecting buyer and seller. You’re not buying from K’LEKT, but from a user. Nevertheless, are there any issues that are coming up? Do you have to mediate and solve problems?

Marius: Despite the many users and products it doesn’t really happen very often.

We have an automatic as well as manual control system which keeps problems to

Interview

a minimum. When these things happen, wedo our best to help. In addition, we’ve created a “Buyers & Sellers Guide”. If you stick to it, everything will work out fine.

In general, the purchasing process is the responsibility of the buyer and seller. If you’re stuck, simply send us an email to service@K’LEKT.in and we try to assist.

You’re a “sneaker marketplace” but we realized that you can buy other products as well. Was that intentional?

Heiko: Yes, of course! It was never a marketplace just for sneakers. We do focus on footwear, but there’s just a whole world of products around it. You can find streetwear, sneaker art and things like that. Our users are actually more and more interested in these things.

Marius: Our name says it all: It’s about “collecting”. Not stamps, but products from the whole streetwear cosmos, things with an emotional value attached to it. One user wrote us an email lately: “I’ve got a flashback! I had an Icarus when I was 9 years old and now I’ve found one on K’LEKT in my size. Thanks!” That’s quite a good example for what our users are after.

SNEAKERS 4/2014

What are your next steps?

Marius: We’re working on the relaunch, as we’ve mentioned before. It takes up a lot of time and energy. K’LEKT’s becoming more and more professional and some new functions and of course the app will make buying and selling even easier for users.

Heiko: There are some surprises left!

We’re curious! Any last words?

Both: Thank you so much for your support. Shoutouts to the rest of the K’LEKT team. You’re doing a great job. All the K’LEKTers out there, keep on K’LEKT.in

Interview

SNEAKERS 4/2014

B r i g h t 20th Edition January 19 – 21, 2015 Berlin, Mitte www.bright tradeshow.com

Words: Michael Mews Images: Holger von Krosigk Lookbook images by adidas

“Creating a design that does not already exist” – this concept has always been at the core of the collaboration between adidas Originals and Neighborhood. With the 20-year anniversary of the Japanese streetwear brand and almost a decadelong friendship between mastermind Shinsuke Takizawa and adidas, the year 2014 adds another layer to the legacy. Here’s a reflection on one of the most special collaborations and its latest iteration in the new Fall / Winter collection.

SNEAKERS 4/2014

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N

eighborhood was established in 1994 by a man who wanted to share his passion for motorcycling

and his vision of the style that goes along with it. The brand is a living expression of the devotion of Japan’s small but hardcore motorcycle subculture. Shinsuke Takizawa founded the Harajuku, Tokyo-based brand

available at only the finest and most select

with the intention to create high quality basic

accounts around the globe. Having worked

clothing, taking inspiration from elements

with industry heavyweights and favorites

such as Native American culture, military

including Carhartt, Visvim, Stussy, and

uniforms and also outdoor apparel, while

Supreme, among others, he is known for

not being afraid to add technical aspects to

lending his unique and anarchic touch to

ensure that the final product lives up to the

pre-existing classics, without losing the

highest standards. Takizawa’s collections,

spirit of the original product. Now already

also including accessories, are exclusively

in its tenth year, the relationship with

it also introduced Takizawa’s cousin, Kazuki Kuraishi, as a designer for adidas. As a sidenote, Kuraishi later on gained even more recognition when he joined the Originals

by Originals family as the head of design for several ObyO KZK collections. In 2006, adidas and Neighborhood continued their collaborative efforts by producing a black and a white pair of Gazelles, made especially adidas makes no exceptions to this formula.

to promote the FIFA Football World Cup

With the creation of their Autumn/Winter

held in Germany that year. Another winning

2014 capsule collection, Neighborhood and

sure shot: both colorways became highly

adidas are going all in to take things to the

coveted collectibles as well. Up until today,

next level.

collaborations between the two brands stand for a high level in terms of quality, materials, upcoming

details and authenticity to the product,

collaboration between the Herzogenaurach-

executed perfectly on further heritage models

based sportswear brand and the Japanese

like the Stan Smith or the Micropacer for

streetwear powerhouse, let’s take a look

example, which Neighborhood designed in a

back at some highlights from their past

3-way project together with Undefeated from

joint efforts, starting with the Superstar

the U.S.

Before

focusing

on

the

Consortium designed especially for the 35th Anniversary Superstar Series in 2004. This par-

For Autumn/ Winter 2014 the two brands

ticular drop not only became a sort of Holy

once again joined forces to deliver a

Grail for collectors all around the globe

capsule

with only 300 pairs available to the public,

footwear styles as well as a selection of

SNEAKERS 4/2014

collection,

including

several

apparel pieces. Besides Neighborhood’s signature black-and-white color scheme that has become a fan favorite, the brands decided to add some new flavor on both the sneakers and the apparel side by including earth tones and flashes of red, taking inspiration from Native American culture and its traditional print patterns.

Weapons of choice in the new footwear offering became the ever-so popular Superstar 80s in two colorways as well as the New York, made out of rich suede and nubuck leather, taking inspiration from classic American Brogues shoes. The same theme is used on the Country OG – another iconic adidas running silhouette – while the Brussel Moc is actually a remixed midcut version

of

an

all-time

classic

known

as

the

Gazelle. With the apparel collection also slotted for release in select stores in the coming weeks you will be able to choose between printed T-shirts in classic black and white, carrying the adidas and Neighbor-hood logos, as well as hooded sweatshirts with Native American-inspired prints on both the front and back. Completing the capsule collection will be a water-resistant soft shell jacket with a removable hood in a black colorway, and also covered in an all-over print with graphics inspired by the same theme. The legacy continues, and it’s coming to your neighborhood.

SNEAKERS 4/2014

Blogger‘s Talk

Bloggers have become an important influence way beyond the world of sneakers. With their particular point of view and personal take on things, they’re at the other end of the media spectrum. Where print is slow and objective, a blogger is quick and subjective – or at least it’s what we suppose. That’s why we decided to take bloggers to the world of print; one by one with a questionnaire. We’re starting our quest with Cologne’s very own Ascoyne who’s speaking about his history in and approach to blogging as well as his view of the changing media landscape.

SNEAKERS 4/2014

Hi Klaus, please start by giving a brief

When and why did you start the blog? What

introduction of yourself and your blog.

was your intention?

Okay, my name is Klaus, and I’m from Cologne,

There really was no specific intention in the

Germany. On my blog ASCOYNE.com I write

beginning. I was just motivated to build my

about sneakers and lots of things I consider to

own little creative playing field and see how it

be related and in rare cases about one or two

would develop over the years.

other things that I’m into.

What does it take for a subject to become What’s the meaning of “Ascoyne”? Where

one of your blog posts?

does the term originate?

Basically only one thing: I have to be excited

That’s probably the question I get asked the

about it on a personal level – regardless of

most – but the answer is actually pretty simple:

what shape of form. I actually don’t write

It doesn’t mean anything! It’s just a name I took

well about things that fail to touch or interest

from an old movie. When it came to searching

me in one way or another. Also, the subject

for new names, I just wasn’t that creative at the

matter has to loosely be a good fit for Ascoyne.

time.

Blogger‘s Talk

Where do you get your information about

time I’m somewhat divided on the issue – on

news and upcoming releases?

one hand I’m pretty glad that adidas is getting

I receive lots of info directly from the brands

the recognition they deserve. But on the other

and their respective PR agencies. Then there’s

hand that model is getting pretty played out. I

always the Internet, via my semi-organized

also liked Nike’s Flyknit Free Chukka model,

Facebook stream. At the moment we’re so over

although it was too expensive.

inundated with infor­ mation that it’s almost harder to pick out the good stuff than to

What are currently your five favorites?

miss about ‘out on the streets’ – by talking to

Definitely the adidas ZX 500 from the

people in the know at the local sneakers store,

Tabula Rasa Pack, the Nike Air Max 1 from

at events or sneaker meetups. Someone will

their Pink Pack and theAir Max 1 Kid Robot.

always have some new info that hasn’t been

All these models have been among my

released officially. So you’re always in the loop

favorite shoes from day one. Otherwise, I like

ahead of time. This direct kind of ex­change

to wear the Onitsuka Tiger X TGWO “Silver

is the most fun and can’t be replaced by

Knight”, the gray ZX 7000 OG, the Nike Air

anything else.

180 OG in the 2009 edition and – the weather permitting – the gray-blue ZX 500 Decon

Which recent releases have remained in your

Knitted. Those are my current everyday shoes.

memory?

The entire adidas EQT stories, of course –

And what is your absolute Holy Grail?

the Cushion is a model from my youth that

Hmmm … I don’t really have an actual Holy

I’d been looking forward to for years. I posted

Grail. There will always be shoes that for a

a little story about the Consortium Cushion.

certain point in time will be the best, prettiest

The Consortium Support and the Guidance

or most important ones for me. But it’s a lot

were even better in terms of implementation,

like music: Ultimately it’s always dependent

actually. There’s also no getting around the Flux

on the current mood, which song or pair of

model, which I find justified since some of the

shoes will be your favorite. Other than that,

models are actually excellent. But at the same

like I said: ZX 500 Tabula Rasa, Air Max 1

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Pink Pack and Air Max 1 Kid Robot. And out of the old triple-digit ZX series, there are still a couple of pairs out there that I would love to have.

Are you getting feedback from brands or are they supplying you with shoes?

I definitely get feedback from one brand or the other, but mostly directly from the stores; from small independent shops to larger chains.

Out of the larger brands, Puma and Reebok are nice enough to supply me with shoes here and there. But the amounts are rather manage-able.

I also have a good connection at Nike’s agency.

Blogger‘s Talk

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Only adidas has kept me waiting for a call or

I have to write about something. I’d rather

email until now.

have the luxury to want to write about it.

And I can also spend a couple of weeks not

How much time do you spend on your blog?

publishing anything, without having to feel

It really varies and also depends on the

bad about it or having to justify my actions

current news selection. But it’s also especially

to a brand or ‘business partner’. Ultimately, it

a question of my own personal time. The more

makes no difference to me whether my stories

time I have on my hands, the more I try to

are being read by one person or 10,000. As a

invest into Ascoyne. But I can’t always pull it

blogger, I enjoy my independence in all aspects,

off: Over the past few months I hardly had time

and I really like that.

to blog, since private matters have simply taken up all my time.

Would you say that affiliate blogging has changed the blogging landscape? And if so,

As opposed to most of the other blogs you

what’s your personal take on these changes?

operate entirely adver-tising-free. Do you have

I find that a very hard call to make, since an

other blogging gigs to make money or are

actual “blogging landscape” in the sneaker

you into it as a passion project?

segment is a rather recent phenomenon.

I actually don’t make any money blogging.

Over the past few years, the sheer number of

It may get me free entrance to an event or

sneaker and lifestyle blogs has skyrocketed,

two, but that’s pretty much it. At one point I

and many of these blogs discovered the affiliate

decided for myself, that the financial aspect

gig for themselves. The main problem to me

should not play a role in my blogging, since

is that affiliate blogs mostly put quantity over

according to my experience the journalistic

quality, with raising their number of “Likes”

quality is bound to suffer massively. And keep

as the only goal. They merely republish current

in mind that I’m writing Ascoyne in my free

press releases in an entirely unfiltered manner,

time, so I don’t want to be in a situation where

with no personal judgment or perspective.

Blogger‘s Talk

That kind of thing doesn’t interest me one

current development of the scene. The “on

bit. The main reason for me to follow blogs is

feet” photos, seen on a mass scale, have really

that someone is sharing their own personal

improved in terms of overall quality over the

opinion about a certain subject. If I wanted,

past few years. But for my tastes, they are

I could also just read the press releases for

getting really “same-same” in the process.

the new models. The most blatant faux pas is

There are always the same hyped shoes and

when they try to hide behind irony, like:

the same poses and the same pin rolls and the

“Here, check it out … what a silly shoe, but

same stupid, brightly colored Stance socks!

you can buy it right HERE,” followed by an

I mean, everybody should go and wear

affiliate link. That’s totally removed from

whatever they like, but it just lacks excitement

my understanding of what a personal blog

overall. There’s no individual handwriting left

should be. It’s just garbage advertising, and

in many places. And the few people that are

I’ll switch it off just like any kind of radio

actually doing their own thing either get lost

or TV commercial. And I don’t even care if

among the masses or choose not to seek mass

it’s accompanied by a professional-looking

exposure for themselves.

photograph – I know it’s paid advertisement and far from authentic. And let’s not even

Which other blogs do you read and enjoy?

talk about “blogs” that simply clutter up their

Actually not that many. Most of them are

Facebook timeline with every random release

lacking a certain authenticity in my eyes. Out

without ever supplying their own photo or

of the very few that I like to read and follow

any other added creative value whatsoever.

on the regular, I would mention the pages of

Maybe the people behind these pages actually

Chris Flanell and Jay Beez since both cultivate

know their subject matter, but it never shows

an elevated personal style. Chris is the closest

when all they do is parrot what’s already out

thing to a blogger in the classical sense, and

there.

Jan not only has great personal taste but really has something to say, as he demonstrated in

I’m also pretty much bored by the overall

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his guest feature on my blog.

I’m currently also into the work of TypXTatse since those guys not only limit themselves to sneakers. And their photo series “3 Pairs of Sneakers” is really fun, since it’s not always about the same faces, stories and shoes featured on countless other pages, but always something entirely different and unique.

WriteTheStreets puts a focus on the personal stories of the collectors, which I also highly enjoy. All of these are websites that are a bit outside of the spotlight, but – at least as far as I can see – are also all driven by passion while offering more interesting stories and thoughts than the rest.

And outside the realm of sneakers, I also like Mr. Pander, Château Ultra and WeLikeThat.

Last words?

Thanks for the interview!

Diadora

Photography: Raphael Schmitz

Mi.Basket Camo

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Lacoste Light

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New Balance M1500

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FILA F13 Mid

Kangaroos Frenzy ROOS 002

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ATLANTA HAWKS’

JOINS THE NAT in the great big world of professional basketball, it’s all about keeping your head in the game.

Keeping your shoes looking fresh also helps, as one of this upcoming NBA season’s newcomers, 23-year-old forward Adreian payne, will attest: The 15th pick in this year’s NBA Draft has just signed a multi-year endorsement deal with german basketball brand K1X. As part of the deal, payne will exclusively wear K1X footwear in all of his games for the Atlanta Hawks. With a history of developing performance-proven basketball footwear since 2002, K1X was a perfect match to supply ‘Ap’ with shoes during his first pro season.

“We are extremely excited to be back in the NBA and announce our partnership with Adreian payne,” said K1X CEo Chris grosse. “Ap is not only a great person but also an extremely hard worker with a relentless pursuit of his goal on and off the court. He is the perfect fit to represent our ‘play hard – don’t embarrass our products’ philosophy on the NBA hardwood and his dynamic style of play will be represented very nicely in our Anti-gravity shoes.”

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’ ADREIAN PAYNE

TION OF HOOP in late August, payne paid a visit to K1X headquarters in Munich, germany to sign his official endorsement deal – put together by Conor Sammartin of priority Sports & Entertainment – with the brand. Returning from Europe in preparation for training camp with the Hawks, Ap was thrilled about future opportunities with K1X:

“The trip to germany was great. i had the opportunity to meet the entire team and we took the first steps in what will be a very successful partnership. i am excited about playing in the Anti-gravity shoe and looking forward to the upcoming season with the Hawks and with K1X.” payne has already been spotted rocking the silver version of the K1X Anti-gravity high-top model during the NBA’s rookie photo shoot in New York City in August.

Now all eyes are on Ap as the new NBA season begins on october 28, 2014. Stay tuned!

More from Henry Davies at www.pillowheat.com

CUSToM(ER) CULTURE B Y P I L L o W H E aT With the House of Vans opening in august and now proceeding to cement itself as the premier London establishment of core, community and creativity, the visit of Steve Van Doren reinforces for me the original incarnation of the name. What seemingly went under the RaDar is the fact that the Vans brand actually began their near-50 year tenure in the 1960‘s as the “House of Van(‚s)”! a grass roots, in-house retailer of canvas casuals that would go on to shoe a generation of core sports enthusiasts and embody the playful and homely family values that House of Vans London now strives to represent.

o re n , S te v e v a ng Dth e in v ro app a n s 2 0 14 House of V

Sty le #4 4, 196 6 SNEAKERS 4/2014

From day 1 of business on March 16, 1966, Vans was essentially a bespoke, made-to-order factory-direct retailer. In their hurry to open for business, the Van Dorens had no inventory, and simply had empty boxes lining the shelves whereby those initial orders were “customade” for collection the following day. Of course

yellow led to the “House Of Vans” tradition.

those boxes would all soon be full but the

Here in one could provide their own half

precedent was set from day 1 – for individually

yard of fabric to construct their very own

tailored canvas casuals. In that very event of

personalized footwear. As such, for over 20

satisfying the customer at whatever cost, the

years the Van Dorens charged an additional $1

Van Dorens set themselves apart by offering the

to provide one‘s own materials from anything

only on-site manufacturer and retailer of

including the kitchen curtains to a leather

canvas footwear which even by todays

jacket to become the shoe uppers! A 19 day

standards was light years ahead!

turnaround from east coast to west allowed Jackson Brown for example to bring down his

Not only was the custom culture established

battered snake-skin trousers to give them

on day 1 but so too the “catering to a whim”

new life as a pair of scaled down Style #44

which Vans became infamous for. As legend

(Authentic). Long before Nike ID. Long before

has it, on that first day, a customer‘s desire for

Adidas Flux. The foresight of this concept is

a lighter shade of pink or a deeper shade of

pure genius!

Thus continued the culture of customization,

combinations the Van Dorens saw the kids

which only evolved further to offer made-to-

conceiving, had a strong influence on what

match footwear for cheerleaders & drill teams.

they supplied the retail stores. Then there

Wordalso soon spread that Vans could produce

were prominent retailers/distributors around

almost any conceivable combination of color,

the world who would customize their own

width, size and materials which saw podiatrists

stock options to dress according to the styles and

sending problematic patients in for bespoke

flavor of the moment,including the demands of

alterations, local skate groms looking for bi-

the 80s Italian Paninaro scene for example. Of

tonal combinations of Style #95 (Era) and even-

course production of Vans moved offshore in

tually skateboard legends like Tony Alva

the mid 90s and arguably this too saw the end

coming in for one shoe at a time to combat

of the custom culture as we once knew it. The

the thrashing given to the trailing leg. Paul

tradition was re-established however in the

Van Doren was a systems guy and before too

late 00s as the web-based virtual program we

long extended his in-house operation to offer

know today operatingstateside. It is without

nationwide mail order customs and instore

the same romanticism as flipping through

binders of canvas samples for every color of

then binder of canvas options, without the

the rainbow. As it were, if it wasn‘t for this

spontaneous flair of provi-ding your own

freedom of choice, the kids in the 70s without

material and watching it materialize … however

the option for a blue/red/blue Style #95 (Era),

it still resonates the freedom of expression

or a blue/gold/blue Style #98 (Slip-on), the

which Vans and America is all about. The

evolutionary foundation of the Dogtown

original House Of Van‘s housed an overtly

revolution may have been a bit less colorful.

radical yet undervalued concept which sadly is now somewhat a lost art that will travel under

The Vans culture of custom-canvassing

the radar of RAD until the house is re-built one

the nation had evolved so much, to the

shoeat a time. Here‘s hoping the 60s tag line

point where it had become inherent within

still stands true – “if there isn‘t a House Of

the brands perception. All the myriad of

Van near you, there will be soon!”

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„p ro vi de -y ou r19 60 s H ou se ow n” St yl e #1 7 (b y o f Va ns m on ke y. co m ) de lu de d-

Left to right: 1960s brochure, 1990 catalogue & 1960s custom options

0‘s Van s Sty le “pr ovi de- you r-o wn ” 199 com ) ey. onk dm ude del #44 (by

Heat On Feet

The New Balance Edition

Who would haveguessed that this edition's winner would come from Singapore? After a long flight, the NB Gentleman's Choice was shot for our limited edition cover. Congrats, Mon Ardenio!

Over the course of the last year, Heat on Feet has become a true institution. Everybody knows what to do when we announce a new contest – go to our website, upload, vote. But it’s not just about any sneakershot anymore. After the first few contest we started to give out special themes such as „night shots“ to give the photography a special angle. This time, it was all about New Balance, and of course we knew beforehand that this one would create some of the best photography ever. As usual, we cut down our entries to a number of finalists – 15 this time – to be able to pick a winner.

One thing was different though, this time we didn’t just pick the winner’s image, but we sent him a pair of New Balance, or rather the whole Gentleman’s Choice pack, to reshoot his image with. Of course we didn’t expect that the package would have to travel all the way to Singapore, but as you all know, Heat on Feet is an international contest with great pictures from all over the world. Singapore’s Mon Ardenio did a great job with his photo and it graces our limited edition cover just like the previous winners’ picks before him.

Thanks everybody for taking part and making Heat on Feet special.

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Here's the winning shot, which Mon Ardenio reshot with the Gentleman's Choice. Well done!

Portfolio

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All images by Seth Hematch Interview: Holger von Krosigk

Ever since we’ve held our first Heat on Feet photo competitions, the cryptic name “Seth Hematch” has been a guarantee for truly outstanding sneaker photography. Seth, whose real name is Arthur, has made himself a name for ultra clean compositions, unusual locations and killer vintage gems on his feet – no wonder the Frenchman was able to win our contest two times. Since we can’t get enough of Seth’s images, we asked him for a selection of his best images along with some insight into his background.

Portfolio

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S

eth, how did you first get into

have a killer shot on your memory card.

photography?

Like most people it was just

You mentioned that you live in the

capturing memories, moments and places – I

mountains or like to

was a little street kid reporter, haha! I really

spend time there. The Mont Blanc images are

started by shooting tags and graffiti with a

killer! What’s the most difficult thing about it?

cheap camera. Myaim was rather to collect the

Yes! Thank you. Freeriding is above

images than to take a good shot.

everything else for me. I ride every day during wintertime. Sometimes I put my camera with

And how did it develop into a passion?

a pair in my backpack. Some paths are really

When I realized that I can add some feelings

hard to get to but the most difficult is that the

with my point of view. I don’t remember

conditions are not the same at 3500 meters

exactly how I got into the sneakershot game,

altitude. It’s fucking cold and you cannot feel

but it was a long time ago. Sneakers have been

your fingers anymore. The wind can get more

a part of my life since I was a kid but I did not

violent. Besides that it’s hard to see your screen

know that people were shooting their feet to

because of light and snow reflection.

post them on forums. I discovered it while I was digging for some shoes. I saw awesome

which other sneaker photographers do you

vintage sneaker pictures and they made me

like?

want to shoot mine.

Most of the Heat On Feet winners or finalists!

It is exciting to battle with them. The last

When you go out, what’s your main

top 3 pictures were always amazing. I can’t

motivation? What are you after?

name them all … El Zappatillaz Tio, Felix

A quest for inner harmony? Haha … I love to

Habitus, Pangea, DaShape, Roman Spilmann.

explore and walk down the street, to hunt for

It’s a good sign, when you know who took

a good spot or a “no trespassing” area. The

the picture at first sight. As always, I can’t

higher the risk, the better. It brings me the

dissociate the picture from the shoes. The

adrenaline rush that I know from graffiti or a

combination of destroyer vintage shoes and

good snowboard ride. And then of course there’s

an awesome picture … I really like Kaïtimar

the excite­ment you get when you know you

Zbona for that.

Portfolio

Your vintage passion is obvious in every

dad. He was amarathon runner and one day

picture. How did that start?

my friend stole him a pair of Air Mariah. I

I’ve been addicted since the first pair. The

was more than jealous, with sparkles in the

good thing is, my mothern was collecting

eyes! My first Nike was a Dura Max, the first

shoes and she always gave her best to dress her

one I bought with my own money was a Nike

son well. So I was lucky to get some cute baby

air pegasus 89 GS. I’m not interested in the

kicks. She passed her addiction to me, all the

„hype“ hyper quickstrike collabs. The late 80‘s

main brands at first but then quickly it turned

and early 90‘s is the golden age for me, I’m a

to Nike only. Where I was living, boys in the

“kidult” I guess, I want to find all the shoes

hood were worthless without Nikes on their

I had in my youth. Opening a mint vintage

feet, hehe. Besides, I just fell in love with the

deadstock grail box and smell that shit is a

running shoes from one of my best friend‘s

hard drug.

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Portfolio

Top 5 models of all time?

Nike Air Max 1, Nike Air Huarache, Nike Air

you don‘t plan. Sometimes I find a good spot

180, Nike Air Pegasus 89 releases, Nike Air

and then think about everything to make a

Mariah, Duellist, Flow, Current, ATC II, Span,

perfect shot. Then I take a million shots and

Stab, Base, Grail, Alpha, Skylon II … five,

I’m never satisfied. Other times I stumble

right?

upon a hot place and take 2 or 3 instinctive shots and most of the time a killer shot comes

What’s your tip for young and upcoming

out of the camera.

sneakerheads who want to take better pictures?

No kids allowed! You take the best shots when

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Famous last words?

The world is yours.

Releases

Few brands can boast a history as deep as FILA. Although some people would first associate the likes of BjÜrn Borg, hiphop artists like LL Cool J or NBA star Grant Hill with the Italian sportswear house, there has always been a strong connection to the mountains. The F-Box logo graced Reinhold Messner’s hightech equipment when he reached the summit of Everest, fueled by the determination to be the first to scale the titan without the aid of additional oxygen. FILA also slid down the slopes with Ingemar Stenmark and of course Alberto Tomba. The Snow Expedition Pack is inspired by this long history with mountain climbing and skiiing. The KJ7 and the Overpass runner have been retouched in icy colorway, which are available at selected retailers from December.

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Interview : Tony Toupet | Photos: Roger Ferrero

Store Check

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here are just a handful of shops in Europe with a footprint as big as that of Barcelona’s 24 Kilates.

It was not only Spain’s first sneaker store but has proven, again and again, to be a collaboration powerhouse – asics, New Balance, Saucony, Le Coq Sportif, Sperry Topsider, Reebok, you name it. With that kind of success, it’s hard to imagine the name goes back to a time when the guys were so broke that they decided to “balance it out” with a luxurious-sounding name.

Long-time friend Pol is one of the heads behind 24 K. I first met him at the Brandery tradeshow in Barcelona. He ran a booth just next to the area where we displayed our sneaker expo. Somehow I knew at first sight that he was real, and after our first night out partying together this impression proved to be true. Now every time the fashion week madness goes down, we run into each other somewhere. He is just the kind of guy you like to meet, with a big smile on his face, fully equipped with drinks and everything else. at our last meeting, I took the bold attempt at speaking with him about something other than girls. or at least I tried.

Store Check

24 KILATES X SAUCONY SHADOW. MAR Y MONTAÑA

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Hola Pol, good to see you again in Berlin. How has your trip been so far? We just arrived yesterday and entered the FashionWeek party marathon right away after. Of course we are here to see what’s coming up for the next season and to do some orders,but there always need to be some side orders as well, you know what I mean?

I guess I know very well! But I just want to state that this is supposed to be a decent interview in a serious publication!

It can’t possibly be a serious mag by any chance if YOU, my friend, write for them!

Store Check

Haha, that point goes to you! But back to

How did you end up with your own

business: who is 24 Kilates?

sneaker shop?

Basically it’s just my partner Riki and me,

From the consumers’ point of view or

doing our thing. But of course there is a

as sneaker lovers, which Riki and me

whole crew of friends behind us two, which

obviously are – we always are, we always

represents 24 Kilates. We all share the

were on the hunt for fresh pairs. On our

same passion for the good things in life.

business trips to Asia and the USA we found lots of good stuff. So the lack of

When you’re talking about the good

not having a decent store with good offers

things, you mean sneakers?

in our own country forced us to start

Now you got those nasty thoughts, amigo…

something on our own.

Got me on this one. Well, please tell me

So the actual plan was to come up with

a little about your background or the history

a store specialized in shoes which were not

of 24K.

available before or hard to find ones, right?

We started this project almost ten years

Correct, we were just tired from searching

ago. Our background has always been

outside of Spain andonline and wanted to

related to the sneaker industry somehow.

provide something new for all the

In the beginning our main focus was

enthusiasts in our country. Speaking of

on the skate market, which has always

home country – shouldn’t it be time for us

been close to streetwear and sneakers of

two to grab some of YOUR home country’s

course. We were operating as a whole-saler,

famous beer?

supplying certain skate brands to other retailers.

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Easy skipper! I have some more things

to ask you first. For example how did you

I have some good memories about that

came up with that name?

fact! But honestly, why?

24 Kilates is the Spanish translation for

Honestly? Then I really have to repeat

the English 24 Karat, which shouldn’t be

myself, it’s because of the Chiccas here.

too hard to guess? The sad truth about

Okay, both of us were born in Barcelona, we

WHY we came up with 24K is that our

are very proud of our city and of course of

asses were so broke by the time we set up

our country, too. Barcelona is an amazing

our store that we decided to balance

city with a lot of interesting things in terms

things out with a fancy luxury-spreading

of culture and history. But we can’t forget

name. That’s just it!

the fantastic weather, friendly atmosphere, delicious wine and great food, AND ... the

Haha, that’s exactly my style! And in the

beautiful women!

end it seems to work out for you that way?

Yeah, high life on a low budget! We can’t

I’m really happy about the decision they

complain about our situation. We were

bring back the winter bread and butter to

among the first sneaker shops in Spain,

Barcelona!

and we are still around.

As far as rumors have it, it’s sadly not going to happen. It’s a shame and really too bad.

24K is based in Barcelona, the heart of

We always froze our asses off at the winter

Catalonia. Are you guys Barca OGs or what

tradeshow in Berlin. Too damn cold. After

was the reason to choose this city? I mean I

so many years it would have been dope

love this city, but in your words please.

if they moved it back to here. All of our

It’s because of the girls in Barcelona. It’s

friends are around and good connections

just that simple, Tony!

and business for the whole city.

Store Check

24 KILATES X PATTA X SPERRY TOPSIDER 24 KILATES X ASICS GEL SAGA X TIO PEPE

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24 KILATES X NEW BALANCE 1500 MIRO

24 KILATES X PUMP FURY 20 ANNIVERSARY X 11 BORIS BIDJAN SABERI 24 KILATES X LECOQ SPORTIF FLASH

I haven’t heard about that rumor. Let’s see what’s really happening. What about your personal background in sneakers?

As I mentioned before, I’ve been always related to sneakers. But my love for sneakers is based on the early days when my dad started buying me all the worse cheap copy-sneakers from back then. This made me want the real ones so bad. I started working on the weekends beside school to afford them all. The funny thing is that nowadays my dad walks in and grabs himself only the top notch made in USA models.

Pops seems to have a good taste! What about your all time favorite models?

It’s just too hard to answer this question, as there are too many favorite sneakers in my mind. But for me it’s just all about running silhouettes.

24 KILATES X ELLESSE FAB 5 YACHT SQUADRON

Store Check

24 Kilates x New Balance 577

What about collabs? Which one is THE choice for you? One of your own ones or something else?

In this case I have to name the Patta/ Asics Gel Lyte III. This thing changed the sneaker market back then – killer design!

24 KILATES X NEW BALANCE 581 CAMINO DE SANTIAGO

Of course we have some decent ones to offer, too!

You just recently dropped a new joint venture with Patta and Sperry topsider, how did that happen?

For quite a long time we’ve been very close friends with the Patta family. But even though we had lots of great times, we never

24 KILATES X REEBOK WORKOUT 20th ANNIVERSARY

worked on any project together. They have their 10th anniversary this year and so the time was just right to join for a small capsule collection, I guess.

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In our last issue we had an interview with

What about the sneaker scene in Spain

Spanish collector

in general? Is it blowing up as everywhere

Luis Miguel. Besides the old school, what is

right now?

the Spanish style focus? Running, hightops,

The biz is growing in our country, too.

hype, vintage?

There are many new sneaker lovers around,

Spain, as every country, has Jordan heads,

but I’d say more quantity-wise than

the vintage collectors, running followers

quality-wise. You have to keep in mind

and so on – the usual different types that

that the Spanish folks have other priorities.

are into their own styles. Ever since we

We have to make up our minds about

first started, the store has always carried

important things like which tapas to order

the same brands of sneakers, more or less,

and nice cold drinks on a warm evening –

without changing our focus no matter

sometimes worth more than just the next

how the trends changed. We always tried

pair of sneakers!

to keep it relatedto our personal taste and style, and running silhouettes are just our favorites!

That are some nice last words, Pol. Let’s keep it with exactly those and get some well-earned drinks!

SALUDOS!

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t

he classic sporting goods store is a memory from a by-gone era. You can pay a visit in your dreams and walk into the tennis corner to buy an Ivan

Lendl competition or an Air Tech Challenge – depending on the chosen date of your time travels. In 2014, these kinds of stores no longer exist. Huge corporations, chains and online trading have swept aside the majority of them. Others have continued but many aging storeowners were unable to pass on their business to the next generations. The shoes that we now call

“sneakers” are bought elsewhere, because the term “sports” has slowly turned into a mere fashion reference.

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Over the years, a few vintage hunters were able to track down some of these closed-down stores to buy entire stocks laying dormant in the basements. The owners, hardly aware of the collector value, sold everything, just to get rid of the burden of the past. Today, this is the dream scenario for every vintage collector – a dream that hardly ever comes true.

What we’re about to show you on these pages is truly exceptional. It’s a sporting goods store that has not only survived over the last three decades; it has carried along some of the inventory of the past. It’s a time capsule that you can actually visit to buy shoes and clothing, granted you fight your way through the crammed alleys. There are vintage classics, new in their box, with the price tags still in Schilling, the old Austrian currency. There’s no business concept behind it – it’s the owner’s appreciation for special products. Every business consultant would have told him to get rid of it. But he’s just as special as his store.

This is the story of basketball aficionado Otto Heissenberger and his store, Basketsports in Bruck an der Leitha, a small city on the outskirts of Vienna. Otto was kind enough to give us an interview. If you’re interested, you can pay him a visit yourself and buy some of the gems that are still there.

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Otto, how old were you when you first opened the store?

I was 21 years old and without any history or family in the retail business. The main motivation for me was that I felt disappointed with the products that were available at the time. Everything was super conservative – no coolness involved, whatsoever. You were able to buy adidas stuff with three stripes, very simple, that was it. Brands like Converse were almost impossible to get and Nike wasn’t even on the radar. American sports weren’t that popular and literally nonexistent in the mass media. It was something for insiders.

There was no satellite TV and in the mid-1980s, we ordered our first videotapes from the U.S.. Of course we had a lot of trouble viewing them because they didn’t work on our VCRs. You needed an NTSC player, but that didn’t work with most of the TVs! But somehow we worked our way around it and stepby-step we moved forward.

SNEAKERS 4/2014

What did you carry in the store at that time? Basketball was your specialty, right?

We’ve established ourselves as an unconventional shop with a focus on basketball. We were the shop that carried some of the stuff you couldn’t get elsewhere. We sold tennis equipment and apparel quite well at the time. I remember the culture shock of the Agassi collection. When everything in tennis was so conservative – all white and maybe a little bit of navy, that was it. We were fully into these crazy and colorful products and have established ourselves quite quickly.

Our sales were a lot higher than today and we had several employees.

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It’s almost shocking that you have so much stock from the ‘80s and ‘90s. It’s good for us, but unusual for a store. Why did you hang on to it and never put it on sale?

These radical sales, we were never into them. I don’t think we have huge quantities of everything but due to our long history, it added up. But as I mentioned to you earlier, I don’t have such a commercial approach. I have a collector’s passion, even beyond the store. I don’t think that everything has to be sold to make space for new items. If I’m into something, I will order it again and restock it on purpose.

So we’re not the only ones with an appreciation of these vintage products?

Yes, absolutely. I know it’s not a smart business move, but I’m having fun doing it.

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Talking about fun, are there specific models that stand out for you?

Of course, of course, but it’s a really difficult subject. Hadi from Vienna asked me the same question. The problem is that I’m emotionally attached to the shoes and as a businessman you ought to keep your distance. I always hope that when I sell something I really like, that the buyer is a nice person who has the same appreciation for it. It’s a kind of satisfaction when it happens.

It’s different when the person just buys it without any knowledge. The day before yesterday there was a really cool couple and they bought And1 sets, they went for some that I personally like as well. It’s really emotional for me, and these moments are far too rare. I’m not here to sell Nordic Walking sticks to elderly women. I do it for commercial reasons, but it’s not fun. I get a kick out of conversations with people who have common memories. Or sometimes there are younger people who haven’t witnessed the ‘80s. When I tell them the stories they can’t believe it. That’s what makes it interesting. I miss these moments and it can’t be all about sales. It’s not the reason I’m doing this.

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There were definitely a lot of changes over the last decades!

Well, for example, Nike is a synonym for these changes – how the times are changing, thedistribution models and society as a whole. There were some great times and some less great ones.

Because I’ve been carrying Nike in my store for thirty years, I’ve gone through them all. But oftentimes it just depends on the people you’re dealing with. There are some people that represent more than business to you. It always works out better with themthan with the ones that are not interested in what you’re doing or not willing to push things forward.

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Can you name any product highlights from the past?

It’s always about certain crucial points in time. You may think of Jordan and how he broughtabout a whole new era of marketing. Or the same with Agassi.

That period turned the whole image of the sport around. That was interesting and I’m missing these moments. But maybe it’s just me and I’ve been in the business too long to be excited. But I guess there were more of these gamechanging moments in the past. Nike Basketball has been influenced by LeBron quite strongly. It’s interesting but you can’t compare it to the Jordan era. I can remember how we were in meetings at Nike and discussing the Bulls when they’d won ten or twelve games in a row.

They were up to play against the Utah Jazz and I predicted that the Bulls would lose. The rep was freaking out when it really happened.

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Speaking of basketball, you’ve been playing yourself all the time. This is your passion, right?

Yes, I’m playing passionately, that’s a good way of phrasing it (laughs)! Of course I’m playing on a whole different level now than back in the days. That applies to business as well. It’s more of a hobby now.

But a serious hobby! You’re playing in Austria’s senior national team!

Yes, that’s right. We were playing in the Euro Championship lately, that was a great experience. Over 50 teams, meeting new people, seeing old faces, that’s something I truly love. It’s the same everywhere – people are coming and going. That keeps it interesting.

As a player, which shoes did you appreciate the most?

When it comes to basketball shoes, the Converse Pro Star was my first love. I even had it as a gold talisman, before I lost it somewhere. Then Nike came, of course. The first Jordan model was the hit, in black, white and red. I remember the ban in the NBA. I still love the

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adverts with Mars Blackmon and still have shirts. Then for a short time I loved the LA Gear Mailman. It was a model I liked and played in myself. In the 2000s I turned towards And1 more and more, they had good products on a functional and aesthetic level. Now I’ve been getting into Nike again. Their basketball program is really good, well structured, and you can get really good shoes for around 100. I always see this through the eyes of my clients. Some of them are younger players who have to pay for their own shoes. There was another highlight for me last week: It was a holiday and I received a call from the secretary of the Austrian Basketball Association. She begged me to come open the store because the Swedish team was in town, preparing for a game in Slovakia. The starting point guard had damaged his shoes and needed new ones.

We met in my shop at half past ten and he bought two pairs. They won afterwards! Now he’s a friend on Facebook and told me that they were the best shoes he ever had. He took the KD Low and played in the Lunar Hyper Quickness.

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Let’s turn to a more serious subject.

How do you perceive the changing retail landscape?

Very negative, to be honest. I don’t have the impression that things are changing towards the better. In the good old days, the retailers had an important function. They were the filter for new products. When a company came out with a good collection, they checked it out and ordered. They bought it and sold it to the consumer. But when the product was crappy or too expensive, it didn’t work. It didn’t pass through retail and wasn’t available on the market. Now the producers are trying to eliminate this filter. There are various distribution channels for the big companies – outlet centers, online shops and everything in between. They can sell anything, even if it’s an ugly shirt for three euros in an outlet. Whether that’s the scenario we all like … I don’t know.

What about online business and the changes it brought about? You opened the store in a time way before the Internet …

That’s a complex subject. I think when normal retailers are selling online, it’s not such a big change. It’s an extension of their normal reach, but it doesn’t have a profound impact. But when companies are doing it, it changes everything. And nowadays you can design your own shoe and order it for €250 or something.

Without ever having seen or tried the shoe. And then there’s this feeling that everything has to be on stock all the time, every size, every color. I always compare it to a supermarket, where people want to have every fruit and vegetable the whole year round. It creates this illusion and people are disappointed if the reality is different.

Now more and more sneaker fans are interested in vintage products. How do you see that trend?

I think in Austria the trend isn’t as strong as elsewhere. But I really like it, you can speak about the old times and reflect on products and trends. You can see how some trends weren’t so good but were continued while better ones weren’t… But that’s always interesting and subjective.

If everyone would be into the same shoe, it would be boring.

You’ve also seen a lot of brands come and go. How do you view the current retro trend?

Some brands portray themselves different from what they are. I’m a bit skeptical of this. They see some good business down the road and jump on the bandwagon.

The retroing of models… sometimes it’s good, sometimes not. If there’s a strong history behind it, I like it. But sometimes you wonder. Ugly shoes remain ugly, so why bring them back?

What about the future, for both you and the store?

My sons won’t take over the business, that decision has been made and it’s okay. Being self-employed isn’t that easy in Austria with all the regulations and things they put in your way. There are easier paths to follow. But I will continue Basketsports for the next couple of years.

I don’t see a reason why not to do it. I try to focus on the things that are fun.

Now that we’ve published your story, some of our readers will try to contact you. Do you only sell here in your store or also online?

We’ve been doing mail order for a long time but that was the preInternet era. We do have a homepage but it’s problematic with shoes.

We don’t have all the shoes up there and you should also take a look at them yourself and try them.

Otto, thank you for your time and all the best to you and Basketsports!

Store Address Basketsports Altstadt 24 2460 Bruck/Leitha AUSTRIA www.basketsports.org

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Stammtisch

The ediTion Welcome to the fifth sneaker-themed “Stammtisch” – meaning “regulars' table” – featured in this magazine. it’s always a pleasure joining these meetups all over germany and learning about the specific style and vibe cultivated by its members.

This time around, we went all the way up to the brisk, cold North of germany, to the harbor town of Hamburg. Some of the meetup members are no strangers in the german sneaker scene, so we had an idea what we were in for. Actually, we got a bit of a head start since we ran into some of them ahead of the meetup, down the street at Hamburg’s time-honored sneaker emporium, gloryhole store. This is where members of #derechtehamburgersneakerstammtisch (their official hashtag, meaning the “real” Hamburg sneaker meetup) gave us a warm welcome and started telling us stories over cold drinks, compliments of the house.

By the time we changed venues to the official meetup location at peacetambul bar, we already knew: This was going to be classic. Welcome to the real deal, Hamburg edition.

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H

i guys, what a ‘coincidence’ to run into each other at Markus’ gloryhole store. It’s safe to say

Were you guys already friends before the whole ‘sneakers thing’?

Rotzfahne: No, we weren’t. It really

we have all spent a big part of our lives there

all began in 2006 at an event hosted

over the past few years. But let’s talk about

by [skate park owner] Thomas i Punkt.

your meetup: When did you start getting

That’s where Safari, Iamcam and

together and what made you decide to organize

myself first met, and the rest of the

a sneakers event here in Hamburg?

crew joined via the infamous STV

Hoschi: I think it really got going in 2009.

forum, of which we were all members.

But nobody is really sureabout where and when the first meetup happened. We had already made each other’s virtual acquaintance on [the] Sneaker-TV [online forum], so it was only a matter of time until we got together in person.

We’d also conducted one or the other sneakers transaction over the forum. Over the years, people have come and gone but the hard core has remained the same.

Interview: Ernie Beckmann Photos: Holger von Krosigk

Stammtisch

I’ve been stalking your meetup quite heavily on Facebook and Instagram, which is easy thanks to the hashtag #derechtehamburgersneakerstammtisch. Is it just my impression, or are your meetings rather irregular with no set intervals?

Kuttstevens: Earlier on we used to By now, have you all become friends doing things outside the realm of sneakers?

Kuttstevens: At this point, the whole

have some regularity. We would meet on Wednesdays or Thursdaysover dinner and one to five cold beverages. But over time it got more

“sneakers thing” has developed such a mind

and more irregular, which doesn’t meanthat

of its own that a part of us is losing interest.

we’ve lost sight of each other... Some of us

Thanks to our meetups, there are a broad

became parents, others made the leap from

range of activities we can enjoy as a group

being a student into professional life. So it can

or part of the group. And some lasting

be a bit tricky when it comes to finding a date

friendships have definitely grown out of that.

that works for everyone. And our meetings are

ocke: Over the years we realized that we have more in common thanour interest in sneakers. So there’ll be some boozy nights or bike rides where everybody gets together. We are also really into miniature golf and bowling.

Some of our members have gone on vacation in Thailand together before and we’ll also spend time together during the week or on weekends.

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only made public if we remember to shoot a distorted sneaker circle.

Hoschi: But that’s not a problem for anyone up here, since people in Hamburg don’t tend to have that typical “bowling club attitude”.

As opposed to people from the Ruhrpott region – big shouts to the Champagnertunten from the Dortmund meetup (laughs)!

Stammtisch

As we can see by the salute fired towards the

Kuttstevens: Unfortunately, you actually

Ruhrpott Chapter Stammtisch, whose bowling

always have to explain to some people that

outing was featured in our winter issue, the

the whole sneaker thing started before the

Hamburg sneaker meetup is well-dialed into

year 2012. Way before Facebook groups, mee-

the German sneakers scene. Over the past few

tups for sneaker photo shoots and hashtags

years, they have networked and expanded their

like #peepmysneaks, we were already doing

contacts with like-minded folks from all over

our thing. That’s why we chose the hashtag

the country.

for the ‘real’ Hamburg sneaker meetup. But we don’t have any club pennants or friendship

Is Peacetambul your set location?

bracelets or crew tattoos. It’s like with the Air

Kuttstevens: Due to the manifold options in

Max – those were already around before Patta

Hamburg and frequent changes in bar owner-

put together some retros.

ship, there is no set location. We’ll always decide pretty much on the fly where we’ll end

So what happens during your sneaker mee-

up going. In terms of frequency, the place we

tups? Is there a recurring structure to those

touch down the most is probably the

evenings, like certain rituals?

Mandalay.

Rob: First of all we get something to eat, and then discuss life and the universe over a

Let’s get down to some real issues... what’s

couple of cold ones. The only recurring ritu-

the deal with thehashtag #derechtehambur-

al at every meeting is that we all have usu-

gersneakerstammtisch?

ally tied one on by the end of the night. And

Hoschi: Our local scene has been going through some changes over the past few ye-

perhaps there’s a dirty sneaker circle. Unless we forget about it.

ars. At this point there are a few other groups

Ocke: And we’ll always discuss our latest

that are hanging out at some of the shops. But

purchases, or which sneakers are currently on

they obviously have a different focus and appa-

sale and where.

rently feed off their Facebook ‘likes’ and their online fame.

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From a footwear perspective, my impression is that the members of this meetup have a somewhat different taste in sneakers than the majority of the scene.

Kuttstevens: The truth is that we don’t care

Hoschi: Since we all met before Ronnie Fieg

about the “scene” and its inner dynamics. Up

became hyped, each and every one of us has

here in the North it’s a bit windier, so it’s okay

their own taste. We are all different and not

to go against the grain. Most of us have deve-

trying to chase any trends. I think it’s great to

loped their own taste quite early on. And the

stay true to who you are and what you like.

fact that everyone has their own taste actually

Rotzfahne: Speaking of which, I would

makes it way more interesting to talk and

really like to say that “camping out every two

exchange perspectives. This has helped evolve

weeks for new kicks” is a pretty embarrassing

my own taste over the years, but aside from

“sport”! I can’t stand that kind of cattle her-

a few exceptions, I’m still really basketball-

ding! Always staying nicely in line with the

focused.

rest of the pack.

Stammtisch

So what are the personal style preferences of

are needed. Generally speaking, I’m always

some of your members? What’s everyone got

open to all brands and models, I just have to

under the table tonight?

like it. But when it comes to all those hyped-

Rob: It’s always been very important to me not to walk around looking like the masses.

So I would mostly opt for the ‘uglier’ model

up sneaks out there today, I’m not particularly into it.

Rotzfahne: I always had the feeling that I

or the “hideous” colorway instead of the shoe

needed to collect all I could get of a certain

that’s compatible for the mass-market. And I

thing... That already started with Panini

also have a strong background in graffiti, so

sticker albums back in the day. I’ve specia-

my kicks always had to be able to stand some

lized in old SB Dunks, all shoes with a con-

extra abuse and offer some functionality. This

nection to Solebox, as well as certain old and

is what brought me to Nike’s ACG line. To me,

limited adidas sneakers.

it really represents a perfect blend of sneakers

Tim: Ever since I got my first Jordans in

and funct­ional design. Otherwise, since I’m

1993, I’ve pretty much been faithful to the

born in 1980, I grew up with sneakers from the

brand. Actually, there is only one single non-

1990s and now like to buy childhood memo-

Nike/Jordan shoe in my entire collection. My

ries that used to be way too expensive and

main focus lies with OGs and PEs.

unattainable back then.

Ocke: As for me personally, I’ve always been

Are you consciously trying to differentiate

a great fan of the Air Max, whether it’s the

yourself from the majority of “sneakerheads”

’87 or ’90 model. Nevertheless, product de-

nowadays?

velopment at Nike really made it impossible

Ocke: Consciously differentiate ourselves?

for me to stay with it. Let’s suffice it to say

Not necessarily. But it’s quite astonishing when

that ‘shape’ is a big issue. Otherwise, I always

80% of the people at an event are showing

have a lot of time for Dunks. That’s such a

up in Fiegs. So differentiation comes quite

pretty, understated shoe where two colors are

naturally.

totally enough and no extra flair or gimmicks

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Jay: For me it was less about standing out

from the pack. I always just went for buying

How much time do you devote to subjects

the kind of stuff that I liked. Sure, there

like sneakers, sneaker heads and the sneaker

were some shoes that “everybody” was buying,

scene at your meetups?

but I never really cared about other people. My

Rotzfahne: Ultimately, it all boils down to

three favorite models are the Nike Dunk, Air

“athletic shoes”. Unfortunately, that moniker

Max 1 and Jordan 1. So it’s to no surprise

has almost become extinct in the German

that these three styles account for about 50%

“scene” these days.

of my collection.

Rob: It’s really about my own personal taste.

Kuttstevens: I get the feeling that it really varies from time to time. Because we now

Most of the new stuff really doesn’t do it for

have known each other for quite many years

me. Especially the whole monochromatic

at this point, the main priority is to see what’s

colors thing that’s trending at the moment is

going on with everybody. At some point in the

just plain boring in my opinion. A great shoe

night, we’ll turn towards sneakers, for in-

can become even better by a great colorway –

stance when some exciting release is coming

it’s that simple. That’s why I often try to get

up.

my hands on Asia-only colorways. Their color combinations over there are just totally insane sometimes.

And it’s true: None of the feet under the ta-

Do you guys attend events outside of Hamburg?

Kuttstevens: Rotzfahne and myself can al-

ble tonightare laced in hyped-up models from

ways be found at Solemart and other

the running segment. Only the Nike Air Max

Sneakerness events.

180 Opium breaks the mold a bit, but then again; 180s aren’t exactly at the top of the list for today’s generation of Hypebeasts. They’re more about the Nike SB Dunk, as we can see in the pictures.

Stammtisch

Not every single one, but we try to make it whenever we can. That’s really the best way to

You strike me as a tightly-knit community. Is it even possible for outsiders to join your circle?

get rid of some superfluous pairs and connect

Rotzfahne: We really welcome everybody,

with some old acquaintances and have a laugh.

even if they’re into collecting Barbie dolls! The

ocke: Solemart is really an event we attend

passion is really just the same most of the

on the regular, both as sellers as well as custo-

time.

mers. The tour up to Eindhoven for Solemart

Kuttstevens: Well, we really are a pretty

was also spectacular. Especially the designer

tightly knit group, but every one of us has

hotel booked by Rotzi with a window looking

their own opinions, their own specific taste –

into the bathroom. The Solemart location was

although there are always similarities. And we

really one-of-a-kind, a huge machinery hall

always have ‘guest speakers’ and former mem-

packed with all kinds of vintage appliances. It

bers. At this point, major shouts to Tunetrader,

was super cold inside, since the building had

911, Iamcam, Mauke, Nikeee, Likewow and

been abandoned for years, while outside we

M-easy.

were burning up in the sun.

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If you stand by your own taste and are able to

here and there. But our interests are just

handle our Hamburg blend of humor, and

too divergent. But we do entertain friendly

assuming that you’re not only into the whole

relations withsome of the shop owners in

sneaker thing because it’s “hip” at the mo-

the area! Markus at glOryhOle and Fiete at

ment, you’ll have a great time hanging out

Allike Store are really dear to ourheart. Rob

with us.

spent some time commuting for work between Hamburg and Berlin and built great connec-

are you networking with the rest of the Hamburg scene and some of the stores in town?

Hoschi: We don’t really connect with the rest of the new Hamburg scene. We’ve seen each other around and will exchange a nod

tions with Amelie and Marc at Overkill and the guys at Pauls Boutique.

Stammtisch

SNEAKERS 4/2014

Is there something on your mind that you would like to add?

Rotzfahne: All the “sneaker newbies”

One thing that can be said with certainty at this point:This group of people really packs a heavy dose of combined sneaker knowledge.

should stop acting like cattle and camping out

Almost encyclopedic, reallyin a league of its

for four days out-side the store for some bulls-

own. Hearing the guys talk shop about makes

hit. It’s getting ridiculous …

and models was really impressive. Having seen

ocke: We are #derechtehamburgersneakerstammtisch!

their similar tastes in shoes, their honest, enthusiastic approach and genuine friendships really makes me want to try and get another

I would like to say thanks for the great eve-

invite to a Hamburg meetup as soon as possi-

ning, your hospitality and sharing your insights.

ble. The love of sneakersis alive and well up in the brisk, cold North of Germany.

Stammtisch

SNEAKERS 4/2014

Rob

Kuttstevens

Tim

ocke

Jay

Hoschi

Rotzfahne

Collection Check

Urban exploration is a classic subject by the earth. It takes a moment to take for sneaker photo-graphy. The contrast the concept in, but once you look at between modern design aesthetics and the models from thatperspective, it obscure, hidden places is a guarantee starts to make sense. The subtle green, for eye-catching images. New Balance blue, grey and beige tones pay homage has devoted a whole pack to the theme, to the things long forgotten and offthree classic silhouettes most of you are radar. The Elite Edition pack features familiar with, referencing abandoned the CM 1600 BV, MRT 580 OV und ML buildings and spaces slowly reclaimed 999 OBB. The pack is coming in January

SNEAKERS 4/2014

Collection Check

Alongside the ongoing SELECT colla-

dent retailers – WHIZ LIMITED and

borations that PUMA does with la-

collab veterans mita sneakers. The sil-

bels such as BWGH, Sophia Chang

houette of choice is the classic Trino-

or House of Hackney, it runs a super

mic XT2 and the three partners have

exclusive sneaker program under the

opted for darker tones with contrasting

label “CREAM” – the name says it all.

“high risk red” and a light blue form-

One of the most recent collab relea-

stripe. PUMA is making some smart

ses under this umbrella involved two

moves right now and we like the direc-

of Japan’s most prominent indepen-

tion the Herzo brand is headed in.

SNEAKERS 4/2014

Collection Check

The Vans sneaker program is more diversified than that of many other brands. OTW was one of the additions that have been made to the range in recent years. The approach is to take progressive and skate-inspired styles but without the functional restrictions that define classic skate shoes. Comfort and aesthetic are key, as well as premium leathers and suedes. The designs are based on the communities in action sports, design,

SNEAKERS 4/2014

music or fashion. The Tenant model on the left is the evo-lution of a classic silhouette. It’s based on the Mt. Edition, which turned into the Moda Hi as part of the Vans X Crooks & Castles project from 2010. The cork-inspired heel design is just one of the many subtle details of the model. The Alomar on the right has been in the OTW range from day one and comes in a premium leather version.

Old Love New Love

o LD LoVE New L o V e

FRoM »MAD FLAVoR« To »THE oAK«

SNEAKERS 4/2014

F

rom 1989 to 2014! Do I need to write anything else? This dude has 25 years of sneaker biz experience on his back! I’m pretty sure not even the most famous television shoe salesman, al Bundy, can top that! old Love, New Love is the title of this column, and who else could represent the title better than Niklas Beckert himself. an old love, which was first aroused a quarter of a century ago, is still burning in his heart. With his new project “The oak”, things are now being pushed to another level. In his brand-new store, Niklas still retains that fine sense for certain shoes with a special twist.

Between all those Roshes and aIR Maxes, which are an intrinsic part of today’s business, you can find some sneaks that will never make it onto the feet of the masses. a pair of the always underrated Wildwood here, some snake-pattern Superstars there or those cool US-market-only air Trainer 2s. For this special story, SNEaKERS sat down with Niklas for a trip down memory lane – and a look ahead.

Old Love New Love

Tony: Niklas, usually this column is

glorious days like you and me. Besides, I

dedicated to talking about a specific pair of

still keep the old shop going, just around

shoes, but I’m really glad to have you on

the corner on Solmsstraße, as a graffiti

board for this special edition of Old Love /

shop with cans, markers and everything

New Love. What is the deal with your new

else needed for writing.

store, The Oak, compared with your old shop Mad Flavor?

Okay, but how exactly did you come up

Niklas: What Mad Flavor stood for from

with the name “The Oak” then?

day one was simply dead stock sneakers. I

Let me tell you, those three letters may

used to dig out vintage leftover pairs in old

sound easy, but actually it was a bit of a

American stores, bought them for a fair

struggle to find an accurate name for the

price and that was just my business. But

new shop! My original plan was toname

now it’s 2014, and the pond is pretty much

it OZONE, just as the first real sneaker

fished out, I guess. On top of that, the kids

shop ever opened in Berlin. This shop

nowadays seem to focus more on the value

was already closed in 1992, butat the time

of a shoe than its style – sometimes I think

it was the place where I bought my first

they see it as some kind of investment

pairs of sneakers as a little homeboy and it

stock. And only a few people really care

would have been a nice way to pay homage.

about the real treasures anymore. So with

Unfortunately, there are already some

the Oak I just try to keep that old school,

Ozones around worldwide and of course

Mad Flavor-spirit alive but transferred to

the trademarks for this cool name are long

the present and current needs.

gone, too. In the end ”Oak” almost came about by mistake – or luck if you will. We

What’s the concept behind the new

wanted the interior of the shop to be made

name?

out of massive wood and the samples our

Look, I wanted to make a clear statement

carpenter showed us were signed with tags

of change. Not everyone will instantly

like “Oak-brushed” or “Plain Oak”. Somehow

connect the name “Mad Flavor” with the

the sound and the combination of letters

SNEAKERS 4/2014

just stuck with me all of a sudden!

But during the construction period of the shop, the inofficial working title was “This is it”, right?

Yeah, that’s right. That was my favorite for the new start.

There is this scene in the graffiti movie Style Wars where the character Iz the Wiz cheers at his own whole car, rolling by in that sequence, yelling out: ”YO! THIS IS IT!” I always loved that scene and still think it would be a killer name for a shop, though. But as we all know, the final tour of the great Michael Jackson was supposed to be named the same. And that really was it with the name and the trademarks again! as one of the biggest Michael fans around, I would have

Old Love New Love

loved this name as well!

I know, but it just couldn’t work out this way. What I also didn’t want was a name with any kind of wordplay around “sneakers”. I mean, if you had established a business with a name like this many years ago, it would be cool, but coming up today with ”SneakersParadise” or a name like that, it’s just dead. Then it’s better to go for a name like wehave now, which transports nothing about the actual business but sounds good, stays in your head and is just cool. And an oak tree is damn cool, isn’t it?

The tiny one you planted at the opening day in front of the store is not yet a tree

SNEAKERS 4/2014

which comes to my mind when I think about a massive German oak, but it’s

What about your range of brands? Who’s

definitely cool and still has to grow, just as

on board?

the new shop does. How long did the store

Right now we are hustling with the big

renovations take?

players on the market, which is way

We started in December and finally opened

more complicated than you would think.

in April. We really worked our asses off!

Mostly because all decisions have to pass

Every single stone was moved in there.

through dozens of authorities. I don’t

We completely rebuilt everything. All the

want to sound bitter, but there are tons of

walls, floors, pipes, the plumbing, we even

politics behind everything. Ultimately, I

changed the steps and the window front.

will hopefully be able to supply the classic brands – Nike, adidas, Puma (who already

That’s a hell of an effort. But in the end the result came out more than nice.

support us) as well as Reebok, Converse and New Balance.

It’s sexy but without looking sterile or revealing the roots of Mad Flavor. on top

Do you intend to also carry apparel

of that, I think it fits perfectly into the

alongside sneakers?

Bergmannstraßen neighborhood.

Yes, sure. Our range of clothes will be

Yeah, you are right. We had an offer for a

added with a few decent brands.In the

location in the Mitte district but who needs

future we want to stand out from the

another shop around there? In our area,

average sneaker store with their usual

you will find everybody wearing sneakers

streetwear brands. More grown up styles,

from the true Kreuzberg locals up to

chic but stillbasic with the main focus

tourists from all over the planet. From now

on matching with your new pair of fresh

on, all of them are hope-fully hopegoing to shop

sneakers from The Oak.

for them at The Oak.

Old Love New Love

It’s really cool to see that old enthusiasm in our eyes and words again. all the best for you and The oak in the future, my friend.

Tony, I’m really excited to see what the two of us will have to talk aboutanother 25 years in the future. But you know what – after all this talking I’m getting really thirsty! Why don’t you walk over to the pub and order some drinks for us? I’ll close down The Oak for today and be right there in a minute with some more classic stories from 25 years of sneaker digging tours with Atti a.k.a.

Machoman and some other madness.

What I can already predict at this point is: I’m gonna put some vintage baby sneakers on my walking frame when I’m and old bastard, because style is everything and everything is style!

Check out the Mad Flavor history special – 25 years of Niklas’ sneaker stories in our online issues 11 & 12.

SNEAKERS 4/2014

SToRE aDDRESS The oak, zossener StraĂ&#x;e 32, 10961 Berlin www.the-oak.berlin

Last Words

Simon Lister, End Clothing London, England What are you wearing right now?

Nike Lunar Flyknit One+ “Multi-Color”.

Favorite sneaker sold at END in 2014?

Favorite restaurant?

Patty & Bun, London.

3 alltime favorite sneakers?

Slightly biased but got to be the END. x

Nike x Sole Collector, Presto (Hawaii),

Saucony Shadow 5000 “Burger”.

Common Projects Original Achilles Mid

Favorite own collaboration?

I’m really proud of the Wood Wood x END. capsule collection we launched last month.

(White), Concepts x New Balance 998 (Mint).

Favorite store besides END?

It was brilliant to work with an apparel

I think Tres Bien have a really great brand

brand that we’ve supported pretty much

mix and super cool aesthetic.

since the opening of the shop nearly ten years ago.

Best brand this year and why?

I think in terms of product and innovation Stone Island have released some amazing product and pushed the boundaries of fabric technology.

SNEAKERS 4/2014

Most annoying trend right now?

There is so much great product out there at the moment, that there is literally no point in being annoyed.

Philip van den Heuvel, acht Sneaker Store amsterdam, Holland What’s on your feet right now?

Favorite city?

Nike huarache light ultra marine, I was

Easy: New York! They have all the things

waiting years for these to rerelease!

I like: sneakers, basketball, hip-hop, cool

Favorite sneaker sold at aCHT in 2014?

Hard to point at a certain pair, but I really

shops, great food!

Three alltime faves?

liked the “Sophia Chang Puma Disc” in all

Jordan 3 white cement, Air Max 90 coral

black that released last month.

rose, Asics Gel Lyte III Miami.

Favorite collaboration so far?

Best moment 2014?

I enjoy almost all the releases from Kith and

Watching the 2014 sweet 16 NCAA

Asics. The best one this year in my opinion

basketball at the Garden in New York from

was the Gel Lyte 5 mint. Great shoe, great

the 3th row, sitting next to Spike Lee!

colorway.

Best brand this year and why?

For footwear, Nike is always good of course, but I really like Asics, they have some great shoes in their archives. Puma is also a brand that's moving in the right direction.

Last words?

Enjoy sneaker culture, don't complain.

Last Words

Mischa Krewer, 43einhalb Store Fulda, Germany

Favorite restaurant and what do you like to eat there? „Grillrestaurant Kneshecke“ in Dipperz close

What are you wearing at the moment?

Nike Huarache Light Ultramarine.

Best sold sneaker 2014?

to Fulda, Germany. My favorite dish is „Leiterchen“ (non pre-cooked spare-ribs).

3 alltime favorite sneakers?

Quantity wise it was the Opel Motorsport

Nike ATC II Hot-Lava, adidas Monza “Walter

OMS-1 Mid (laughs).

Röhrl” Edition, Nike Air Force 1 Lux White

Which trend is annoying?

Soft folklore mentality in Germany, it’s almost like every good German has to listen to Helene Fischer now.

Favorite collab this year?

I was excited about the reborn Agassi x Nike partnership, I hope they bring back the apparel stuff as well.

SNEAKERS 4/2014

Anaconda, the shoe in which I’m going to marry.

Favorite store besides 43einhalb?

Weststyle.de, the online shop for Weber Grill here in Germany run by Ralph and his colleagues! one thing you still want to achieve?

A pilot’s license before I turn 40!

Crews have been escaping in the GL6000 since way back in 1985, we should know, we have the photos and there’s no escaping those hairstyles. With its hits of color and reflective details the GL6000 will make you the standout in your pack.

Worn here by Kid Ink and friends. ©2014 REEBOK INTERNATIONAL. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. REEBOK IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF REEBOK.

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