Sneakers Magazine 23

Nr 23 – 3/2014

D& AT: EUR 6 | CH: CHF 9

NIKE Air Max Lunar 1

Brotherhood of the Feet Nike SB & Football Special Guéss Who’s Back éS History Check Quote’s Archive Adidas Illustration Book Puma X BwGH An Interview With David Obiada

Š 2014 adidas AG. adidas, the Trefoil logo and the 3-Stripes mark are registered trademarks of the adidas Group.

#zxflux. infinite.

adidas.com/originals

YOUR PLAYGROUND.

WWW.FILA.DE

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IMPRESSuM Editor in Chief Holger von Krosigk krosigk@sneakers-magazine.com m: 0163/2496077 Art Direction Till Paukstat paukstat@sneakers-magazine.com Graphics Sebastian Wegerhoff

SNEAKERS 3/2014

Editors (alphabetical) Ernst-Heinrich Beckmann Jürgen Blümlein Bernhard Glimm Henry Davies Erik Huesken Heiko Lanzke Christian Sachse Tony Toupet Dirk Vogel Photographers (alphabetical) Nady El-Tounsy Manuel Mittelpunkt Raphael Schmitz Holger von Krosigk Kaïtimar Zbona Advertising Sales Holger von Krosigk krosigk@sneakers-magazine.com Online Editor Heiko Lanzke neiko@sneakers-magazine.com Publisher Monday Publishing GmbH Kamekestr. 20 –22 50672 Köln t: 0221 / 945 267 21 f: 0221 / 945 267 27 www.sneakers-magazine.com Geschäftsführer Stefan Dongus Holger von Krosigk Alle Rechte vorbehalten Cover-Sneak Nike Air Max Lunar 1 by: Raphael Schmitz

Editorial

Photo: Holger von Krosigk

F u l l

SNEAKERS 3/2014

C i r c l e As long as humans have been walking over this planet, they’ve been trying to express themselves through art. Whether in early cave paintings, renaissance masterpieces or on graffiti-bombed trains, artistshave always been creative with things they’re passionate about. This emotional connection is one of the main reasons that sneakers have found entry into the world of art so frequently in the last decade or two. Sneakers are considered art, but they are also the objects of art pieces. Even the highest end of it is no exception – famous art photographer Andreas Gursky has an image of a sneaker shelf in his portfolio.

The fact that sneakers are rendered as art again and again is special. It doesn’t happen with other pieces of fashion – belt or jeans art anyone? And it’s weird if you think about the history of the models that we like to call “classics”. None of them have been designed for anything other than performance. All the runners we love and collect were sup­posed to provide cushion, support and everything else to athletes who wanted to run faster or longer

Editorial

F u l l

C i r c l e

distances. In our last issue, we inter­-

each and every one of these sneakers in

viewed adidas designer Jacques Chassaing

his trademark style. And, stepping it up

who shared some insights into the mindset

another notch, the book comes in a pack

at work when the ZX family was designed.

with a limited edition sneaker based on the

30 years later, this work of performance is

ZX 420 – the “Quotoole”. Sounds like a full

entering the world of arts.

circle story, doesn’t it?

In this issue, we’re focusing on a project

As an exclusive preview to the book, which

that takes the appreciation of sneakers to

is released in September, we’re presenting

another level. It’s a book about Quote’s

to you a selection of 16 pages in the original

adi collection, illustrated by Peter O’Toole.

format as part of the article in about the

Quote not only handpicked a special

book in this issue.

selection from his meanwhile famous shelf,

Now please enjoy our July issue – with more

he also visited the adidas archive several

than 160 pages of sneaker culture.

times in order to research the history of the models. UK artist Peter O’Toole illustrated

SNEAKERS 3/2014

Holger von Krosigk

MADE IN ENGLAND CRAFTSMANSHIP FLIMBY

Photo: Raphael Schmitz

Cover Story

sneAkers 3/2014

T

he fusion of new technology and classic silhouettes isn’t an easy one, but it surely is one of Nike’s specialties. While the lunar sole unit has been successfully adapted to almost every other Nike legend, there was one fortress of sneaker culture that has remained untouched ––the Air max 1. But when its closest relative, the Air max 90, got its piece of the lightweight sole technology in

december of 2013, it was clear that the “1” was next. Now our friends from Oregon have finally upgraded Tinker Hatfield’s classic.

Combining the latest tape technology and a fast looking, very reduced lunar midsole, they managed to push the envelope, again.

NEw BALANCE mH988 FRESH FOAm

– new Balance releases a new high-top silhouette, the 988, which comes with fresh foam midsole technology. the new cushioning system has recentlybeen introduced on performance models and it doesn’t just look super technical, there really is an extensive development process behind it. new Balance has used new design software to collect data from different types of runners. the result is a hexagonal sole structure, produced with 3d printing technology, which provides perfect cushioning and energy rebound. As always, interesting to see how quickly new developments from performance are being used in the lifestyle segment.

sneAkers 3/2014

WEAPoN rELOadEd THE WEAPON – COmEBACK OF A CONVERSE ClASSIC sneakers are an emotional topic and there’s hardly something like an objective opinion in matters of taste. even when it comes to classics, we’ve seen heated debates going down in our office.

But some classics are just exceptional, because everyone seems to agree to them. Among them isconverse’s timeless 80s court classic, the Weapon. released for the first time in 1986, it quickly became one of the most popular models of its era. Basketball legends like earvin “magic” Johnson and larry Bird adored the model with the Y-bar. And some of you may even recall the “choose Your Weapon” campaign. But its popularity was by no means restricted to the basketball courts only. the appearance in numerous music videos and even in skate videos created a cult status. With that kind of background, it’s no wonder that converse reloaded the Weapon several times with different colorways. this year, it’s coming back in an updated and refined version with a modern look and feel. Both sole and upper have become slightly slimmer which makes for a less bulky look.

With a padded Y-bar on the inside, memory foam for a better fit as well as a marbled evA insole, converse was able to improve the Weapon’s comfort without sacrificing its dnA. Besides the more classic colorways, there’ll be an entire Weapon collection with different creative approaches, which show the basketball legend elevated with a 2014 mindset.

sneAkers 3/2014

cAmO ALL OVEr

It’s still unbelievable that G-SHOCK has celebrated its 30th anniversary last year.

Time isn’t just ticking, it’s flying. And three successful decades they were. The distinctive and tough watch has become a must-have and a life-style product – it’s hard to imagine the sneaker world without it. In March 2014, the next product drop followed: The Camo Pack made clear that there’s still much more to come from the Japanese brand.

The anniversary in 2013 was a huge series of event on a global scale. All over the world, pop-up stores opened in the major cities.

They were called G-SESSIONS and represented a myriad of experiences and purposes – event location, workshop, store and much more. Always present – the hottest releases from G-SHOCK. And there were plenty of them in the year of anniversary.

sneAkers 3/2014

Text: Dominik Berger

After its anniversary last year, G-SHOCK keeps pushing the envelope with new releases. The latest drop is the Camo Pack, which consists of three new colorways of classic models.

The year 2014 is another big milestone for G-SHOCK. The Japanese brand releases classics in a timeless look – with an allover camo print. A new printing technology was necessary to accomplish the high-end camouflage look on popular models such as the GD-X6900CM, the GA-100CF and of course the flagship model GD-120CM. Both come in three colorways each. The third color of the GD-X6900CM was the Maharishi collab that came out in March.

There will surely come more surprises from G-SHOCK later this year. The Camo Pack was a perfect start and a good reinterpretation of the brand’s classics. We want more!

For additional info on the camo pack and the models please check www.gshock.eu

Interview

BWGH X PUMA The Collaboration Continues

PumA Xs850 X BWGh sneAkers 3/2014

in late 2013, contemporary Parisian menswear brand, brooklyn we Go hard (bwGh), announced a collaboration with German athletic mainstay Puma. the bluefield Project started out with a limited drop of the classic r698 model, in a dazzling blue colorway inspired by painter mark rothko’s masterpiece “blue”, accompanied by a matching backpack and skateboard deck. fast forward to 2014 and the bluefield Project has become a full-f ledged collection.

SneaKerS spoke to David obadia, one of the two founders behind bwGh, to get the scoop on how the young french label got the “blues”.

Let’s take a step back to the early days.

Puma is a sports brand and the products made for athletes were adapted in the urban environment. Where do you see your roots and how would you describe your (sub)-cultural background?

I was born and raised in Paris. I now live in my favorite place in the city, Montmartre. It is a cosmopolitan neighborhood, full of energy. I have always been interested in art

What’s your earliest memory of Puma and

and my mother is closely related to the art

what images come to your mind?

scene. Since I was young, my parents have

Images that come to my mind when thin-

always given me a passion for colors, ma-

king about the brand at the beginning of

terials and textures! Then I stepped into

this collaboration are joy, colors and sports

the street wear universe by following what

achievements. I have always loved Puma

was going on in music, fashion and sports,

because it was one of the first brands to

both in New York and Tokyo.

promote hip-hop and basketball culture.

To me, Pumarepresents multiculturalism

Part of the Bluefield Project was a skate-

and urban culture. They have contributed

board. What was your idea behind it – do

to spreading these cultures.

you have a skateboarding background?

Interview

“I have always loved Puma because it was one of the first brands to promote hip-hop and basketball culture. To me, Puma represents multiculturalism and urban culture.�

PumA Xs850 X BWGh

sneAkers 3/2014

Skateboarding is an important part of

What do you think about the sneker hype

urban culture. And the skateboard has

in general and what’s worn on people’s feet

become a true art object, too. Some artists

in the streets in Paris?

like Mura-kami and Damian Hirst drew

There is sometimes too much hysteria

stunning decks. I wanted to add this

around this sneaker hype. But I like what I

mythical object to my collection.

see, especially the meeting between street wear and high fashion brands. In Paris,

You already mentioned in another inter-

what’s happening is always a more discrete

view that you’re deeply into sneakers. do

and timeless style. I like it, although

you collect sneakers yourself and what do

what’s going on abroad is often more fun.

sneakers represent to you?

PumA Xs698 X BWGh

I do not consider myself to be a true

it’s super interesting that you picked

sneaker head, although I have always loved

mark rothko as an inspiration for the first

sneakers. For example, I am not fond of a

pieces of the collection, an American ex-

pair because it is a limited edition, but only

pressionist from the mid-20th century.

because I love it and find it beautiful.

Where else do you find inspiration for what

I don’t know why sneakers became so im-

you do?

portant, maybe because they are an imme-

All that surrounds me inspires me: people,

diate way of identification, the symbol of

places, and a specific energy, even a move-

belonging to a community.

ment. But what impacts me the most is

Interview

always the colors. That is why I focus on

there other Puma models that you favor?

paintings.

If I have to name just one model, I liked the Ronnie Fieg x Puma Disc that was re-

When it came to translating Puma as a

leased last year.

sports brand and what it stands for into street wear and fashion, did you do a lot of

How big is your team these days and how

research on the history of the brand or was

can we imagine a normal day in your office?

this from a general feeling?

do you guys have strict office hours or is it

Yes, we did a lot of research. We looked at

the typical nightshift? How many hours do

the evolution of the brand from the first

you work in a typical week?

models, ads, visual identity and values,

I work all the time, honestly, even during

to what it represents to us today. It is im-

weekends. I cannot imagine how many

portant to catch the core of a brand before

hours. Now the team is about five people

working on its DNA to produce some-thing

strong, and I try to delegate more and more

that is new, but not incoherent.

in order to focus on the creative direction.

There are some interesting camo pieces

The name ‘Brooklyn We Go Hard’ was

in the new collection. What was your design

obviously inspired by a Jay-Z song. did peo-

approach here?

ple think you were from Brooklyn? did Jay-Z

Simply put, I really love this pattern and it

call to congratulate – or his lawyers?

makes sense in an urban environment. I

No, unfortunately he didn’t call! Peop-

think camo is interesting because I have

le sometimes actually do think we come

made three different color ranges in this

from Brooklyn, but the name was just a

collection, and every camo piece is a mix of

tribute to a place that we love. It is an inter-

one distinct color palette.

national scene, wherever you come from.

You have worked on some interesting shoe models, the r698 and the XS 850. Are

sneAkers 3/2014

Have you ever been to Puma headquarters in Germany or do you plan on going?

PumA Xs698 X BWGh

You have to visit the archive there someday!

No, we only went to [the] London [office].

But I wish I could see it one day.

What else is in store for BWGH in the future? What are your next steps, with PUmA, but also in general?

Nothing I can reveal today!

Thanks for taking the time, david. And all the best for the future!

hummel

3– S

*** While everybody is familiar with hummel’s iconic double chevron on both sides, not too many people know how far this company goes back. it was founded in 1923, which means just 15 years after converse and almost a quarter of a century before adidas’ and PumA’s official kickoff. With a strong history in both football and handball, the German-turned-danish powerhouse has been slowly shifting its focus towards fashion in recent years. the 3-s runner comes in four colorways and is a testament to that development. it’s a nice addition to the brands footwear range, which has been largely characterized by slimmer silhouettes such as the stadil. let’s hope for more hummel sneaker drops in the near future.

sneAkers 3/2014

Interview & Photos: Holger von Krosigk

Interview

SNEAKERS 3/2014

A BOOK ABOUT QUOTE’S ADIDAS COLLECTION – ILLUSTRATED BY PETER O’TOOLE

Quote and Peter o’toole have a few things in common. most obviously, they share a huge passion for classic adidas models from the 80s. while Quote’s three-striped love has found expression in his extensive collection, Peter has immortalized his favorites through his illustrations, for instance in a series of posters, which have become soughtafter collector’s items. together, Quote and Peter have been working on a limited edition book that brings the best of both worlds together: Quote’s collection as illustrated by Peter o’toole. it will be available in selected sneaker stores from September, together with a shoe, dedicated to the special project – the “Quotoole”. we interviewed the two in herzogenaurach where they met for the very first time and were able to take a first glimpse at their printed baby.

Interview

Quote, this book must have been quite a

is so different. How did you grow up with

journey for both of you. Whose idea was it

sneakers over there?

in the first place?

Yes, it’s a weird one in the UK! It’s a phe-

The whole thing goes back to an idea Peter

nomenon that started in the early 80s and

had, but it started out diffe-rently than you

is still going strong, if not the strongest it’s

would probably expect. Peter wanted to

ever been. It’s quite unique in the fact that

design another poster, which would only

these type of shoes aren’t really popular

show shoes that were illustrated by him,

or as popular anywhere else in the world!

but were also part of my collection. He did

In the early 80sit was introduced with the

that, but then he also asked me to partici-

football casual scene and that’s pretty much

pate in a book and write the texts about

how I got into it as well. Although when I

the models that he illustrated. I really loved

got interested in adidas they had already

the idea and that’s where it all started.

started re-introducing models from those early days.

Peter, you’ve been illustrating adi shoes for a while now. What triggered your love

Quote, we’ve covered your beginnings as

for the three stripes in the first place?

a collector in previous articles. But how did

I just really got into adidas trainers around

you first take notice of Peter?

2002/2003, I saw some of the city series

That must have been in a Facebook group.

reissues around that time and started rese-

It was the first of his posters with the about

arching how many city models there actu-

100 vintage adidas models on them. And

ally were and how far back they went. This

although I’m not so much into “sneaker

really triggered my interest in the heritage

art” in general, I had to have this poster. A

of the brand.

short while after, he came with a second poster and we stayed in contact. Apart

This is always interesting for us in Germany, because trainer culture in the UK

SNEAKERS 3/2014

from the sneaker illustrations, I like his style in the rest of his work as well.

Interview

And when did you first encounter Quote, Peter?

I remember seeing his name on the old Crooked Tongues adidas trainer forum. He and a guy called “10ari” always seemed to be dropping knowledge on production years and variations of vintage shoes back when this information wasn’t widely available on the net. I was impressed, but not as impressed as I was when I saw his collec-

formation available, it had to be more of a

tion! Over the years we’ve kept in touch,

personal anecdote. I’m also happy that

mainly on Facebook. So I was always upda-

Ernie Beckmann translated the texts for

ted. And as Quote said, when I wanted to

me, because my English wasn’t good

do a new poster, I immediately thought of

enough.

asking him if I could illustrate his collection. He agreed, and the rest is history!

Nice – a shoutout to our editor Ernie here, he‘s done a great job! Peter, what

Quote, now you’re officially an author.

were the challenges on your side?

How was that part of the experience?

It all depends on what style I’m going to

When Peter approached me with the book

draw it. How rare the trainer is, and how

I didn’t have any idea about the amount of

much detail I want to put in. There are

work that this would entail! Not only the

some trainers like the vintage adidas

research but also forming the information

Michigan model on one of the posters

into bits of text, it was more difficult than

that was a fairly simple trainer to draw,

I’d expected. I wanted to do it as informa-

but finding reference pictures was close to

tive as possible without being boring or

impossible. I only found one, I think! And

repetitive. When there wasn’t much in-

it was really low resolution. Other than that,

SNEAKERS 3/2014

Interview

sneAkers 3/2014

it’s not challenging really, its just time consuming! Especially the style I drew for the promotional stuff for the adidas Hamburg relaunch and the Tournament Edition stuff in the UK. How do you approach something like this? Can you take us through your working process?

Well Quote and I decided on fifty or so models to illustrate for the book. So then Quote’s job was to get photos of the shoes, if not of the actual shoe he owned, then a catalogue photo or something similar.

If I was to draw more than one colorway for the shoe, I needed to know exactly which ones and have photos, ideally. On a good day I could probably draw four to five very detailed drawings like you see in the book. Some of which have up to three different colors. For each color I tried to redraw the shoe in a different position so it didn’t get repetitive. I checked everything with Quote. Once the drawings were finalized, I sent onto Adam who was working on the layout!

Quote, what were the criteria for selecting the shoes?

Interview

It was just my personal taste, which comes

experimenting with different materials

naturally because it’s about models that

and shapes. We, as the adidas fans and

I own and like in the first place. It was

collectors, benefited with some great color-

a mixture of aspects because in the end

ways and models, some of which you still

you have to tell something about the shoe,

haven’t seen again to this day.

some kind of story or facts. You could of course always take other ones, but it

Quote, you mentioned that you had to

becomes boring if there’s no information

visit the archive for your research? How did

behind it.

you do that?

The task was to feed the computer with

Peter, what’s your opinion on Quote’s

model names in order to find information

taste in footwear?

in the database. ThenI spent hours and

I think it’s great. He has many of the clas-

hours flipping through catalogues. Doing

sic city silhouettes, but more runners! I

that, I found a lot of information, but it was

was never really into the running shoes

also a huge distraction – because these

before this project. I have bought a fair few

things are incredible! You don’t get to see

more pairs since, and also the “Quotoole”

stuff like this very often. There are about

was based on a running shoe, which I’m

10.000 catalogues in the archive, from all

extremely excited about.

the different decades and countries. And some other collectors helped me out as

The book deals with a very specific peri-

well. And while in Herzo, I was able to

od in time. What makes the shoes from that

watch some designers at work. And while

era special?

at it, I got my hands on a ZX 420 sample …

The 80s seemed to be a transitional peri-

I fell in love immediately.

od for the company. Different factories in different countries were competing and

sneAkers 3/2014

A funny fact is that you two have never

met in person before this interview …

Yes, a big thanks to Sneakers Magazine, because without this interview, I would’ve had to wait until the release to meet Peter in person. Everything up to this point was done via email. Even the shoe design was based on email communication. Otto, the designer, gave us a week to select the model, material and colors. But Peter and I are so similar in our tastes that it was easy.

And after we both did a few colorways, we turned to something entirely different.

Old model with an old colorway, that’s our interpretation.

Peter, what was the most special thing

probably every book that has to do with

about doing this book together with Quote?

sneakers and now I have contributed to

Well, the whole project has been a dream

my own … And also working with talented

come true but if I had to single out one

people like Peter or Adam, who was our

thing … having the words “endorsed by

graphic designer. Apart from that, I’m

Peter O’Toole” with my face and signature

proud that the people at adidas found the

on an adidas shoe has got to be the

project interesting and have supported it.

icing on the cake. Never in my wildest

Seems like there’s nothing in the way of a

dreams did I think that would happen!

follow-up!

Quote, and what about you?

For me, it’s a dream come true. I’ve read

illustrated by peter o’toole

16 pages exlcusive preview

quote’s archive

1980 AS 600 At first glance, this model looks rather unspectacular.

Sure, two-tone shoes are something of a distinctive feature of adidas. I think I have a weakness for blue shoes, and if they are trimmed with light blue highlights as well, I’m totally hooked.

The shoe was designed for track events, as evident in several details. It is very light, yet very robust. The single-layer mesh is woven very tightly; it also allows air to circulate in the shoe, which helps prevent premature fatigue of the foot.

The advertising text in the catalogue praises the evenly spread dimples on the sole because they benefit grip on different surfaces.

A perforated tongue and the golden “adidas 600� stamp round off the picture.

Produced in Yugoslavia, the shoe was introduced in 1980. There are supposedly 7 other colourways in addition to the blue.

I am only aware of a beige and a green one so far.

Unfortunately I am stumped when it comes to the model name. Like the ZX series, AS models are simply consecutively numbered. There is a 230, a 240, a 250 and football boots named 400 and 700. Their shapes vary, but the 600 is the only running silhouette among them.

Made in

yugoslavia

During the course of my research for this book I realised time and again that not every model is unique.

I recognized that sometimes overlays and soles have already been used for other models. As for instance the model shown here, adidas Belmont; it has the same out- and midsole as the ZX 700. Both also have their birth year in common, 1987.

Thus, the usual plastic heel support has been omitted, but the look remains the same. Otherwise, the shoe comes in a beautiful blue suede with grey mesh and nylon. The ghillie lacing system has once again been used.

In addition, 3M material has been used on the heel; unfortunately, this material tends to fall apart over the years. The model name has been embroidered onto the tongue, something that is extremely uncommon, but no less beautiful.

In general, one could say that this model is a ZX in disguise; some of the details indicate this. The Belmont was produced in Taiwan. The sole features for the most part the Dellinger Web, but the PU sole has been elevated at the heel to provide even more stability.

1987

Belmont

7

1 2

This model is one of the ultimate 80s runners from adidas.

Sure, there is an almost unlimited number of running shoes from the 80s, but this one and its congeners represent something special.

Across the heel there is a double layer of suede, a heel support from white plastic is incorporated into the sole.

To my knowledge, this type of sole exists on only three models, all of which are similar in some way and are originated from the same period of time. But be patient, we will get to those later!

I had been looking for this model forever but in recent years several models, which were actually all in my size, have emerged.

It was clear that a second pair had to find its way in to my rack because the first one had already suffered hard.

Unfortunately, the color has half come off in flakes on the burgundy fabric stripes and also the nylon has seen its first flaws. This version right here dates back to 1986 and it was produced in Korea.

My second pair is from 1987 and was made in Taiwan; to be honest, it looks a little sturdier. A beautiful thick mesh on the toebox, suede in either dark gray or black and a gray nylon dominate this shoe.

19 86

LO ND ON

LT GRE Y / RED

Preis/Price

11

The fact that Mallorca (Majorca) is the favourite island of the Germans is not the reason why I like this model so much.

Interestingly, the Mallorca does not really fit into the pattern of typical ‘80s running shoe models that I usually look for. This model hit the shelves in 1992, but I wasn’t really interested in shoes produced after 1989 because they were often chunkier and just didn’t arouse my attention.

Shiny and textured nylon in white alternates with white suede and a few small highlights in turquoise. The black fabric stripes also feature a turquoise highlight in the form of a fine contrasting stripe. Quite interesting is that this model is from the period when adidas wasn’t clear about which of the two logos they would like to use.

Neither the Equipment logo from the ‘90s, nor the famous Trefoil can be seen on this model. Nothing but the adidas wordmark in a box displayed on the tongue; this can be seen repeatedly on models from the beginning of the ‘90s.

This model is an exception because it just looks like a model from the ‘80s, simple as that. It also makes use of some design elements from this era. The sole has been completely carried over from the adidas Quorum, only the plastic heel support is shaped in a different way.

1992

Mallorca

9

1981 Mexicana Who would have thought it?

This model was produced in 1968 for the Olympic Games in Mexico. The first series was produced in West Germany and it had an innovative heel support and a micro-cell sole, which was later installed on the Gazelle.

Anyway, the Mexicana is a yellow version of the Gazelle, catalogues even use this description. Shortly after that, there were further models of Yugoslavian production, and the model made in Austria must also have been made during this time.

In 1972, a new sole was put under the shoe which was also put under the red colourway of the Gazelle. Between 1973 and 1975, the Mexicana was given a black tongue of synthetic leather. Before that, it was made of suede and always had the same colour as the shoe.

So with its black heel and stripes it built a more coherent whole. In a Swedish catalogue from 1973, a version with a blue heel and blue stripes can be seen; this version was exclusively designed for the Swedish market as you can recognise by the typical colours of the country.

It’s simply a fact that this model is extremely popular; and quite rare!

Its unusual colour makes the Mexicana unique, and the boxed adidas logo in gold, including the model name, round off the whole thing.

This model is the absolute ultimate.

The shoe of shoes!

How consumers must have rubbed their eyes when, in 1984, a silver shoe in which a computer had been installed hit the market! Computers were hardly found in private households at all in 1984, therefore it was quite a big thing that a mini version of a computer had been integrated into a running shoe.

The computer is located in the tongue, which is put over the laces and attached there with the help of Velcro fasteners.

The computer works via a cable that is connected to a sensor inside the sole. It is equipped with the following features: kilometres completed, average speed, lap times and calories burned.

The computer has been installed in the left shoe, the right one has a little pocket in which you could store your keys while doing your workout.

1984

Again, the sole was equipped with different-coloured and, thus, varying hard materials designed to offer the runner perfect grip. The sole is structurally identical with the Boston Super from the same time, except for the varying colours.

The entire shoe is made of silver kangaroo leather, which is extremely durable but still breathable. Back in the day, the retail price of 350 DM was exorbitantly high and, therefore, twice as expensive as models such as the Fire.

This was an insane price at that time; all the better that there were still people who bought the Micropacer so that, even 30 years later, you still get the opportunity to purchase and wear them. After its first release, within intervals of one year, two further models with the name Micropacer were released.

Micropacer

11

The first one was released in 1985 and was called Micropacer NL. It had a heel and front end similar to the original model with its silver kangaroo leather, and had blue stripes. The other one named Micropacer NLS came in 1986. It was made of suede and nylon and had red stripes.

1984

Preis

New York

“Wherever you live, run in NewYork.”

In 1984, this was the slogan in the advertisement when the adidas New York was launched. The city that never sleeps, with its decades- long marathon tradition, got its own running shoe.

The first version of the shoe had a relatively thick sole and, at first glance, the upper that we are familiar with. The classic Dellinger web didn’t appear until the release of the second version.

7

Also, some subtle changes in the form of the suede upper had been made. After that change, the shoe had the perfect shape. The grey suede and nylon made the New York very light. The stripes and the heel were again in grey, but synthetic leather was used there.

The burgundy version with golden stripes and heel is much rarer. It does have the Dellinger web but lacks the kink in the suede reinforcement on the toe of the shoe.

Because I wasn’t able to track down this colourway in any catalogue, I don’t really know the exact year of release for this colour variation.

Both versions, however, were produced in West Germany. There were also further production facilities for the grey adidas New York, such as the United States.

198 7

richfield

This model is a bit more special than other releases from the 1980s.

In terms of shape, it’s a standard model, as known from this decade. It makes do with grey suede and the blue synthetic leather stripes are highlighted with pink, which can also be found on the heel.

The rest of the shoe is made of breathable nylon. So far, so good. It seems that in terms of materials there were no special experiments. But that’s not true: the nylon part is coated with a silver layer, which looks pretty cool, but unfortunately doesn’t stand the test of time.

Preis/Price

8

Over the years, the silver material comes off and only the light grey nylon remains.

Of course, the shoe is still wearable, but it takes away its visual appeal. The vario lacing system enables the laces to be put in place for the perfect fit on your foot.

The EVA midsole has been heightened at the end for increased stability.

The outsole is made of high-quality rubber, in which the results of automotive tyre research were used.

Various arrangements and zones are supposed to serve for pre-cushioning, according to the catalogue from 1987, the year of this model’s birth.

If the shapes of the various patterns look familiar to you and you think we’ve switched the colours, I‘ll have to disappoint you because this model really exists.

Some of you probably know the model called Montreal. This one is exactly the same – except for the colours, of course.

The shoe features the familiar suede trimming, which is here pimped with small holes, a vario lacing system for the laces and breathable nylon.

That’s why adidas played a bit with the colours, with the result that the black reinforcement on the heel was changed to red. The grey suede was brightened up a bit and the silver stripes and the heel tab were modified to blue. In other words, the colourway was slightly Americanised!

The name had to be changed, of course, and it turned into the Road Trainer – a name that matches what it is supposed to be: a training shoe for the road. This one was produced in Taiwan in 1987.

In addition, the Road Trainer has a sockliner made of terry cloth to absorb the sweat. I think I can safely say that a model bearing the name of a Canadian city was unacceptable for the all-tooimportant US market.

1987

Road Trainer 7

1 2

Montreal

19 88 1988 was a very good year for running shoes!

This gem hit the market at that time, too, – and, as the catalogue reveals, at an unbeatable price. If only the prices for such models were still unbeatable... but there are just too few pairs that have survived the last 20 or 30 years.

And we all know what amazing prices the shoes that have survived can achieve. The real highlight of adidas models from that period is that they were actually made cheaply, but were still high quality.

This can be seen by the fact that even worn models still look decent. The Rochester comes with the well-known suede overlays and a nylon base.

ROCHESTER

Preis/Price

grey/ blue- green

The stripes and the heel are made of synthetic leather. The emphasis here is on the colour combination. Back in the old days, Mum always told us that green and blue didn’t go together, but for this model it can easily be allowed.

The nylon is almost purple and goes well with the green overall appearance of the shoe. In the catalogue, the green part of the outsole is a bit higher than on my model, where it only elevates halfway up.

Shortly after this colourway there was another version. All parts that are green here are black there and the nylon has been replaced by coarse mesh, which is also very appealing. Probably even rarer than these two colours is a version with grey suede, white nylon and blue stripes and heel.

I have a problem!

There are some shoes which I think are better than others. That is probably not surprising, but it becomes a problem when you cannot wear these shoes.

This happened to me with the LA Trainer, when the sole crumbled into a thousand pieces on my way to do some shopping; luckily it got a new pair years later.

Unfortunately the same thing happened to me with this model, too. If I had to choose a Top 5, the SL 80 would definitely be in it! It’s sad to say, but on my very own model, the outsole has hardened completely, so that you cannot wear it.

The solution with a donor sole is not possible, since the retro model from the year 2008 was made a bit wider than the original. What a shame!

The numbers, of course, stand for the year of their first release, although the first time the SL 80 appears with the description ‘NEW’ is in a catalogue from 1979 – yet another mystery. Another reason why this model is one of my favourites is that it has the ghillie lacing system, which is just great. Due to the use of suede and thin nylon it really lives up to its name. The stripes and the heel are made of golden synthetic leather and the midsole is also gold, which actually makes the difference for me! In addition, the outsole is pulled up over the entire toe area, so that this heavily used part is resilient. I hope I can wear them one day.

1979

HU HE 1E B RE NN SC

8-0

Nevertheless, I wanted this model to be in the book! SL stands for super light! It is part of a series which started with the SL 72, followed by the SL 76, and then the SL 80. After that, the SL 82 and the SL 83 came out.

299 65-1-078033-

GERMANY MADE IN WEST

SL 80 du nk el bla u

9 5

147885

332213

43

/ go ld

9

265

1984 For me, this shoe is definitely one of the best models of all time In fact, it was one of the first shoes I bought for my collection. I was simply fascinated that it had no stripes on the outside and instead had large lettering saying “Spirit of the Games� together with the adidas Trefoil.

Only on the inside of the shoe were there three thin fabric stripes. Along with the shoes, there was a whole collection of apparel, all of which was designed in the same colours and featured the same logo: shorts, shirts, jogging suits, sweaters, everything imaginable could be purchased by customers wishing to breathe a little bit of the Olympic atmosphere.

There is a grey and a dark blue version of the Spirit of the Games, which were also available as high-cut boots.

Spirit Of The Games

In the catalogues from 1984 and also in the adidas archives, there are versions where the welded logo has different colours. However, I have never seen these variants anywhere else. The shoe was completely in tune with the spirit of the times, with materials such as nylon and suede at the highly stressed points, a midsole with good cushioning and an outsole with a diamond tread.

Here, the uniqueness lies in the model’s external appearance, not necessarily in any technical innovation; so, as it should be, the look is indeed more important.

9

When I discovered this model during my weekly research on the Internet, my jaw dropped.

This reaction repeated itself when I finally was able to hold the adidas Sydney in my hands! There are far too few models where the designers were bold enough to combine these colours in this way: bright red velour paired with grey mesh on the toebox, nylon on the quarter and, as a highlight, copper-coloured stripes and heel!

I noticed that its sole, outsole and midsole included, was identical with the sole of the adidas Melbourne and the adidas London. They date from the same period, too.

It is also built like the London and is even from the same year (1986), but it was made in Korea. You could assume that this model is also named after a city. I tried to find out its name for quite a while.

I asked people, searched through catalogues and then gave up after a while. When I was allowed to visit the adidas archive in Herzogenaurach to do some research for this book, I ended up digging my way through all the catalogues that had been acquired by the archive team over the years. And I was successful! A Danish catalogue from 1987 finally revealed its name: Sydney!

In addition, the shoe was equipped with the ghillie-lacing system and had a terrycloth inner shoe to absorb sweat quickly. As beautiful as I found the shoe, as much as I was fascinated by its appearance, I just couldn’t find out the name of the model.

19 86

SY DN EY GOL D / RED

Made in

KOREA

Preis/Price

1989

Or maybe Tech Softcell, which was printed on the shoe. As we know, adidas sometimes gets a little confused when it comes to identifying model names.

Sometimes the name on the shoe is even different from what it is supposed to be; catalogues and even shoe boxes show names that don’t correspond to the shoes.

However, what Softcell refers to is quite clear! Both the Tech and the Tech II don’t only share the same sole and plastic heel stabiliser, but also have the same outsole, as well as the same grey-coloured parts.

Tech

11

The yellow dot on the heel provides the Softcell technology which was later used in far more well-known models such as the ZX 8000.

In the broadest sense, it is a spherical cushion consisting of two rings made of polyurethane (PU) spheres that are stacked on top of each other. When put under great pressure, these spheres interlock and thus provide additional cushioning.

In the Tech, the same materials have been used as in its successor model. The shoe features an almost white suede paired with shiny nylon in the same colour. The additional black parts and the arrangement of the overlays give the shoes a technical look.

There are pink highlights on the outsole as well as on the top lace holes, where the vario lacing system is used, and, last but not least, on the heel stabiliser.

The way I acquired the ZX 420 was quite similar to how I found the ZX 310.

I happened to discover this one on the internet; it was not listed with its model name and that was my luck. However, until it arrived I was totally worried about the sole because it is also partly made of polyurethane (PU); even the upper of the shoe is slightly coated with the PU which is supposed to contribute to stabilisation.

The slight yellowing in the pictures led me to expect the worst, but, thank God, it turned out that everything was fine. They were and are 100% wearable, and that is a good thing, because this shoe needs to be on the streets. The materials are identical to those of the 310 model, and there are even more parallels.

The glossy nylon part on the quarter is just as adapted as the suede reinforcement on the heel, including the small highlight of 3M. The coarse mesh on the toe piece and the quarter is the same colour and rounds off the great look. Anyway, this colour is second to none!

Only two small grey contrasting panels around the lace holes and the silver stripes with red contrasts bring a different colour into play. And, here again, we have another one of these typical adidas mysteries, because there are at least two more colourways that the ZX 420 came out with in 1988.

One of them features a completely different blue, paired with an orange heel overlay. It’s simply a super cool model and I am pleased and proud that we had the privilege of working on it!

Photos: Holger von Krosigk

Reebok Ventilator

ASICS Gel Lyte III Bandana Pack

PUMA Blaze of Glory

Golden Denim ÂťMarathon PantsÂŤ provided by Animal Tracks Hamburg

Diadora N.9000 OG

New Balance 998

PUMA

DISC

Golden Denim ÂťMarathon PantsÂŤ provided by Animal Tracks Hamburg

adidas Equipment Cushion

adidas Equipment Guidance

Heat On Feet

For the first time we have more than two feet on our HOF cover –adidas x Bape x Undefeated Campus and ZX 5000 tag team by Benjamin Park

Presented by

Time’s flying! It was in April 2013 that we started our first Heat on Feet contest.

Quickly, it turned into the most popular online sneaker photo competition.Now, just one year later, we can look back on five sensational „HOF’s“. For every edition we’ve received tons of incredible images that you guys uploaded on our website.

Thanks again for your participation.

SNEAKERS 3/2014

Our newest motto was simple – „adidas only“. It was all about the three stripes, and of course this wasn’t a problem for any of you. Together with The Good Will Out and adidas Originals we launched the contest on June 10. And as usual,our prizes were spectacular. Besides having his pic on the cover of our magazine, the winner received the adidas Originals x Bombtrack collaboration bike, which was produced in a super limited quantity and was never available in stores. Second and third place were rewarded with several adidas Originals x Bombtrack bags and a ZX Flux surprise pack.

If you’re hungry for more great on feet pictures, check our website and click through

adidas rivalry oG 'made in france'

our archive – it’s www.sneakers-magazine.com/heatonfeet. You’ll find inspiration for sure. And you can be sure that the next Heat on Feet will start soon.

adidas torsion Allegra s

Heat On Feet

adidas consortium AZX Project x undefeated adidas x mastermind ZX 500

adidas Primeknit Pure Boost

adidas ZX flux Aqua

sneAkers 3/2014

adidas Quesence

adidas ZX flux reective

ZX 8000

adidas ZX 710

adidas x WoodWood ZX 9000

adidas torison integral s

adidas ZX flux Base Pack

Heat On Feet

adidas ZX8000 Dark Indigo

adidas X Undefeated X A Bathing Ape ZX 5000

adidas ZX Flux Base Pack

adidas ZX Flux Prism

adidas Busenitz

SNEAKERS 3/2014

adidas ZX 5000 Response

The Catalina (available in Charcoal / Black / Blue)

To view the entire emerald collection visit : eu.elementbrand.com @elementbrand

@elementeurope

Retro Release

SNEAKERS 3/2014

FILA » NYC Slam« Original Tennis In our last few issues we featured FILA basketball classics such as the “FX 100” and the largely overlooked running model „Overpass“. Now let’s turn to one of the core categories that made FILA what it is today – tennis. The “Original Tennis” was first released in 1984 and has been called “T1” because it was the brand’s first tennis shoe. The “NYC Slam” model is inspired by the US Open and will be released with the tournament starting in late August.

The embroidery details feature stars on the back, the classic F-logo on the quarter and a tennis ball foot bed.

History Check

By J端rgen Bl端mlein (made for Skate / FauxAmi)

sneAkers 3/2014

it’S all in the feet – worlD cuP mania StriKeS SKateboarDinG the chinese horoscope may call 2014 the Year of the horse, but it’s quite clearly the year of the football. Without a doubt, the fifA World cup is big news to football enthusiasts across the globe, and even die-hard skateboarders are professing their love for the world’s most popular sport. some of these skaters include members of the nike sB team, who have been busy crafting some special releases and limited edition drops just in time for the tournament. While “sB” is short for “skateboarding” – and not “soccer ball” – a certain affinity between both sports can hardly be denied.

History Check

B

ut let’s start from the beginning: Long before Nike created their SB program in 2002, skateboarders

would resort to shoes produced by the Oregon-based company that professes to be

in it, to win it. Throughout the 1970s wave of skateboarding in empty swimming pools, the Nike Blazer model emer-ged as a popular choice among skaters. The 1980s craze of catching air on launch ramps called for serious impact dampening – enter the Air Jordan, and it’s little step brother, the Nike Dunk.And for the 1990s technical street skating revolution, Nike even went as far as offering outdoor-inspired performance shoes strictly for skateboarding as part of the ACG (All Conditions Gear) series, but skateboarders took no notice. Appropriating Nike shoes built for other sports was considered cool, Nike making shoes specifically for skateboarders, not so much.

Finally, in 2002, Nike took all it learnings from failed attempt to enter the skateboard market and assembled a heavy-hitting pro team – including Gino Iannucci – to champion their new take on skate-specific shoes: An upgraded version of the low-top Dunk model, featuring puffy tongues, dou-

sneAkers 3/2014

2003 nike sB Zoom fc "fcB"

ble stitching and limited edition colorways and collabos. The result: “GOOOOAAAL!!!” as they say in soccer language. Nike had just done it – and entered the skateboard market.

The man pulling the strings of the successful market entry, Sandy Bodecker was no stranger to action sports, and also no stranger to the world of soccer. As a professional downhill skier, Bodecker had practiced soccer as a hobby – and used his enthusiasm to help Nike gain ground in the soccer footwear business. This turned out an equally impossible task as entering the skateboard market: Soccer was not only far less popular in the U.S. than the trinity of football, basketball and baseball, the market was also cornered by a certain company from Herzogenaurach, Ger-many, with the signature Three Stripes.

But with a sure hand for sponsoring the right soccer clubs and national teams, Bodecker slowly but surely built brand equity for Nike in soccer, proving to enthusiasts around the world that the Swoosh could really kick it with the best of them.

2006 nike sB Zoom fc "stand up - speak up"

2005 nike sB dunk low "Boca"

History Check

Once Bodecker jumped from soccer into

yellow team colors of Argentinean premier

the newly created Nike Skateboarding divisi-

league team Boca Juniors. Up until the 2006

on, it only took one year for a “footy” – ins-

FIFA World Cup, the FC model remained a

pired sneaker to find its way into the Nike

mainstay in the Nike SB collection, until it

SB line-up: The Air Zoom FC, with the “FC”

was time for the time-honored staple to hit

short for “football club”, was based on an

the bench. As a worthy substitute, the re-

indoor soccer shoe – with a pointed toe and

modeled Zoom Air Abington hit the ground

thin sole. Con-sidered a pretty bold move

running with a number of interesting col-

at the time, the FC turned out highly suited

labos, including the Nike SB X Blueprint

for kickflips and other technical street ma-

Skateboards model with colors inspired by

noeuvres. Next to classic black-and-white

a 20 British Pounds note. Money! Also for

colorways, the FC Series also dazzled fans

the 2006 World Cup in Germany, Nike SB

with a variety of football club colors inclu-

released – not a shoe – but a soccer jersey

ding elite teams such as Barcelona, Man-

designed in collaboration with upcoming

chester United, Juventus Turin, and Inter

streetwear label HUF. Four years later, for the

Milan.

2010 World Cup in South Africa, Nike team rider Paul Rodriguez designed his own jersey

Upping the ante, Nike SB even dropped an

in the colorways of Team USA,and a hint of

FC model in the yellow and green colorway

Gucci. And since Nike SB is no stranger to

of the Brazilian national team, replete with

hybrid models, the year 2012 saw the glorious

the emblem of the country’s national football

return of the FC model –or better yet, an FC

association. The FC Series soon advanced to

upper mounted on the technical sole of the

become a footwear favorite among Nike SB

skate-specific Zoom FP for a true Skateboar-

team riders, who were also given the chance

ding X Soccer hybrid. Anticipation for the

to create their own FC colorways during the

FIFA World Cup in Brazil was running high a

Nike SB Custom Series Vol.1. And even the

year in advance, when the Brazilian Nike SB

basketball-inspired Dunk model received

team kicked things off in style with the latest

a soccer-specific make-over: In 2005, Nike

soccer-inspired model: Their revamped ver-

SB released the first Dunk in the blue and

sion of the Gato indoor soccer shoe scored

SNEAKERS 3/2014

2012 nike sB Zoom fc x fP hybrid

2004 nike sB Zoom fc custom series

2006 nike sB Jersey "huf united" footbal club

2007 nike sB Zoom Abington colors by Blueprint

2014 nike sB oneshot Wc Pack

History Check

big with fans, accompanied by a nation-wide “NAS 4UADRAS” (on the soccer pitch) campaign showing Nike SB teamriders practicing their skate skills on the country’s many concrete soccer fields. If you have time, watch the excellent clip on Nike SB’s YouTube channel. In 2014, Nike SB kicked World Cup preparations into high gear with the Gato Pack, available in the colors of Nikesponsored national teams, including Holland, France, England and – of course – Brazil. Just in time for the world’s most-watched sports event, the Dunk model is now available in a “WC” (short for World Cup) quick strike release. Taking things to the next level, the most technical skateboarding shoe, the Lunar Oneshot, received a World Cup makeover with a Brazil-themed palm-tree print and the slogan: “BROTHERHOOD OF THE FEET – Creativity meets control. Skateboarding and soccer unite.” So there you have it: Whether it’s skateboarding or soccer – it’s all in the feet, and Nike has them covered.

»there are that d dexterity, p or creativity th sk

2014 nike sB dunk low Wc Brasil

sneAkers 3/2014

e no two sports demand greater precision, power with one’s feet han football and kate-boarding …

– nike Sb«

2014 nike sB Gato Wc Pack "Brazil"

2013 nike sB Gato " nAs 4uAdrAs"

Are you watching closely? Because at first sight, people will notice the 1980s-style silhouettes, the vintage color paneling and classic running soles. And they may assume to be looking at an extremely well-preserved original pair from the golden age of running styles. Until they lean in closer and notice the missing Swoosh, side stripe, or any other type of visible branding, for that matter. Instead, only a subtle paper tag reveals: DELICATE RUN – Handmade in France.

SNEAKERS 3/2014

Interview: Heiko Lanzke

H an d m a d e i n F r ance

Photos: Delicate Run® und Kaïtimar Zbona

Interview

As it turns out, the classic runners are the brainchild of sneaker aficionado and renaissance man Vincent. At a time when even the most top-shelf luxury brands are pursuing mass-market production lines, delicate run insists on using only the finest leathers and time-proven manufacturing methods, which really shows in the finish, not to mention a price tag to the tune of € 300.

But why go to such great lengths to recreate a fleeting moment in sneaker history – the 1980s runner blueprint? SNEAKErS found the delicate answer. Here’s Vincent in his own words.

Interview

Vincent, it’s nice to meet you and thanks

Yes, I played basketball in a club during

for taking the time. Would you please intro-

the ‘90s, so I was wearing basketball shoes

duce yourself?

almost only for playing. Except when I got

I am 34 years old and live in Paris. My

my very first Air Jordans in 1992 – the AJ

career started as a designer for animated

VII. I would also wear running sneakers

cartoons, as well as an illustrator and gra-

directly after training. My heart still beats

phic designer. I was a junior art director in

for those vintage running styles. I used to

several advertising and television agencies.

rock OG Nike Running shoes at the begin-

I founded Delicate Run last year, and I’m

ning of 2000s, like Structures, Stabs, Pe-

the art director of the brand. I do almost

gasus, Huaraches, 180s, Spiridons or retro

everything, except manufacturing the

Jordans without the “Jumpman”. That’s

shoes, although I do put in some help so-

when I started to become a real addict and

metimes. My friend Kaïtimar Zbona is the

bought my favorite pairs in double or triple

official photographer for our brand.

whenever I could. For seven or eight years, my focus shifted to Nikes from the ‘80s and

When did you get into sneakers?

late ‘70s, when Nike still made shoes in the

Like most people in the scene, I’ve been

US (in Exeter) and in Japan. I’m still coll-

fascinated by sneakers since I was very

ecting sneakers, but I don’t find as many

young, especially by Nike shoes. I started

deadstock pairs in my size that I like, or

collecting OG Nikes from 1998-99 with an

that are missing on my list anymore.

interest in Nike retros like Air Maxes and Air Jordans. Back then I had a long wish

Which models are still at the top of your

list of pairs that I wasn’t able to get my

wish list right now?

hands on during the ‘80s and ‘90s.

Nike Sierra Caribu and Omega Flame. I know ... I’m too much in love with grada-

Before you started collecting, you were

tions and rainbows! The Top 3 shoes from

already wearing shoes as an athlete, right?

my own collection always change, but right

sneAkers 3/2014

Interview

SNEAKERS 3/2014

now they would include: Nike Sierra Rain-

kers in all aspects, while also expanding my

bow 82, Centurion 83 and Terra Rainbow

research on materials. It was very impor-

84.

tant for me to keep the manufacturing in France for reasons of quality and proximity

You sure have good taste. Let’s start with

to suppliers. This is how I can rely on qua-

the basics of your own brand. Please tell us

lity craftsmanship and incorporate the best

about the history and the concept of

French leathers.

Delicate Run? I started to build the brand a few months

How did you get involved on the business

after the end of [French footwear label]

side of the sneakers industry? Did you study

VEAM, of which I was the co-founder.

design, shoe production or something – or

That was almost three years ago. For a few

are you self-taught?

years now, I’ve wanted to make the kinds

I studied a variety of artistic disciplines at

of sneakers you don’t see every day. With

schools: graphic arts, photography, dra-

designs not only characterized by nice

wing and painting, sculpture and then

running shapes, but also unlike anything

cartoons. Out on the streets, I was the

commonly found. I wanted to work on so-

youngest person in a big graffiti crew in

mething special. So there was no alternati-

Paris in the mid-1990s, together with some

ve for me than creating the shoes myself.

people from my class. But I never studied fashion, shoe design or shoe production.

What were some of the learning experi-

I’m self-taught and a passionate. Since I

ences from being part of VEAM, and what

got into the business, I spent a lot of time

makes Delicate Run different?

learning and enhancing my knowledge.

I knew that I wanted to continue produ-

It’s come a long way until where we are at

cing sneakers in France, while striving to

today.

do things better than VEAM. Delicate Run is a new brand completely in my image,

Speaking of a long way, you seem to be

so I can do exactly what I really like with a

cultivating a classic, time-proven look with

passion. My goal was to improve the snea-

Delicate Run.

Interview

My goal is to propose a luxury reinter-

many sketches of running sneakers and

pretation of classic runners shapes of the

even some cross-training sneakers with

1980s, produced with much higher quality

low- and mid-upper shapes. But no basket-

mate-rials and finishes. It takes a lot of

ball or tennis silhouettes at the moment.

time and research to get a good 1980s-style shape. I pay close attention to every step of

really? We would love to see a delicate

the cons-truction of the shoe, in order to

run Cross Trainer!

get the quality that I want. After I commis-

Well, I really hope to expand the range in

sioned the final prototype of the “Manta”

the next coming years.

model, I started to do some very limited series for my family and friends. And in

delicate run is a small brand and every

October 2013, my friends at the Up There

pair of shoes is 100 % handmade in France

Store in Melbourne, Australia, launched the

with craftsman techniques. How many pairs

first official release of the Manta as a colla-

can you produce each month?

boration.

I preferred producing my sneakers in France for the know-how (savoir-faire) and

The delicate run “manta” model looks

the closeness to manufacturing sites. This

like a perfect 1980s runner, we really like

way, it’s easier for me to check and control

it. So in your opinion, what are the require-

every step of the manufacturing process.

ments for a good shoe?

The sneakers are made less than 500 kilo-

Shape, comfort, lightness and not too

meters away and don’t have to stay in a

much plastic.

container for months before arriving on my feet! With that said, we produce about

is it safe to say that delicate run is representing the vintage running topic? Or are

40-50 pairs per month, which is a very small quantity.

you planning on branching out into other silhouettes someday?

it seems like you are putting quality first.

We have some new running-designed mo-

What does your craftsman production pro-

dels planned for the future. I already did

cess look like?

sneAkers 3/2014

All Delicate Run sneakers are crafted in a

stingray, alligator and even bullfrog skins.

small shoe workshop in the West of France,

Leather suppliers for Delicate Run are the

where a small team works on making diffe-

same as the best French fashions luxury

rent kinds of shoes for a high-end clientele

houses and I always keep searching for

and creatives like myself in quite limited

materials that are even more crazy.

quantities. In our workshop, there are still real craftsmen practicing the noble profes-

That sounds like lots of work and high

sion of shoemaking. Real connoisseurs,

cost. is it worth it?

as we don’t see them anymore. I’m very

Of course, producing shoes in France is

proud of them and they have all my sin-

very expensive – about 25 times more

cere respect. There are seven main steps

expensive than in China. I just want to do

of producing a pair of shoes: Cutting, dra-

something more refined, more real and

wing, pieces cleaning, stitching, assembly of

elitist. I am just doing what I like with

the shape, upper cleaning (sanding), and

a passion. Producing handmade sneakers in

soldering of the sole. There are about 180

your own country repre-sents a different

working steps involved in making a Delicate

management approach than making

Run “Manta” model.

sneakers in China or luxury sneakers in Italy with industrial processes. In every

Crazy! it’s even more impressive keeping

case, it is tons of work to manage, so Deli-

in mind the materials you’re using. What are

cate Run is my full-time job. Only time will

the criteria for this selection?

tell if it is worth it, but making comfy,

The mission of Delicate Run is to offer

long-lasting and at the same time luxury

sneakers made from the rarest and craziest

sneakers exactly the way I want them ma-

skins and leathers in the world. All of our

kes me happy!

calf leathers are of French origin and we use exotic skins sourced from around the

As you mentioned, we are living in an age

world. I’m looking for the best quality of

of mass production and low quality. What’s

noble, soft-touch and supple materials.

your personal opinion?

Today, we are offering on python, shark,

Nowadays, even the biggest famous luxury

Interview

sneAkers 3/2014

Interview

brands are making sneakers by industrial

do anymore if I produced 1000 pairs per

ways. Shoes from the most prominent

month. But we will use any chance we get

brands aren’t always made by consenting

to enlarge production capacities on our

adultsunder appropriate working condi-

side and offer more and more models while

tions. It’s no secret: The larger the scale

keeping the same level of quality.

of production, the more the production is bungled somehow. Most of the brands

Could you tell us something more about

use the least expensive materials to incre-

future projects?

ase their margins and few brands really

We will release more colorways of the

pay attention to delivering customer satis-

“Manta” during the summer while we’re

faction.

waiting to confirm the next model. Please keep in mind that our brand is still very

do you intend to keep delicate run in

young! We have been approached by some

that ’high quality’ and ‘limited edition’

other stores and brands about doing some

category? Or could you imagine producing

collaborations in the future. But right now

for the mainstream?

it is more reasonable to keep it all secret!

At the moment, it is important for me to keep production in France and it is

That sounds exciting. do you have any

difficult to compete with the mass pro-

last words for the readers of SNEAKErS?

duction countries in terms of capacities.

The Delicate Run “Manta” is now available

Delicate Run production levels will stay

on our online shop at delicaterun.com and

at very limited editions for the foreseeable

at Up There Store in Melbourne, Austra-

future, also to offer the highest quality

lia. Contact us if you have any questions

possible. Delicate Run also makes no

and stay tuned for upcoming news and

claim to revolutionize performance in

releases. Many thanks for your support!

sports shoes, there are enough brands doing that! I still inspect every pair with my own hands, which I couldn’t possibly sneAkers 3/2014

And thank you for the interview, Vincent!

MY TOWN MY TRACKS THE CURREO – DE JORDAAN, AMSTERDAM

SNEAKERS 3/2014

Text: Heiko Lanzke

Photos: Holger von Krosigk

T H E S AT U r d AY SPEciAL HANON X DIADORA N.9000 if you think of diadora, your first thought may still be high quality tennis shoes, for instance worn by Björn Borg. But the italian brand, which was founded in 1948 by marcello danieli, doesn’t have to look far for true running classics, because it has quite a few in its own archive. first released in 1990, the n.9000 is definitely the best-known silhouette from that category. in the early days, top athletes such as daley thompson and seb coe wore it. the sneaker scene has rediscovered it lately, most of all through the Patta collab earlier this year. now the italians have picked yet another top-notch collaboration partner for the n.9000 – uk retailer hanon. for the “the saturday special”, whose color scheme is based on the public transport service in the uk of the same name, hanon and diadora chose only premium material. the handcrafted made-in-italy sneaker features a rich upper of kangaroo leather, silky pig and bovine suede as well as the original closed mesh found on the first edition of the shoe. of course there are many more details such as hanon’s flame logo which is applied several times and seems like the perfect fit for diadora’s slogan from the 80s: “light Your fire”.

original 1990 catalogue scan featur ing the n.9000. Pictured is, among others, the oG colorway, which is also re-released in a handcrafted made-in-italy version.

Boxfresh Symmons

SNEAKERS 3/2014

The Casual

Selection

By Raphael Schmitz

Boxfresh Swich

ELEMENT Desert Oasis Collection

SNEAKERS 3/2014

FILA OSESSA MID

SNEAKERS 3/2014

LACOSTE TRAJET

SNEAKERS 3/2014

A vAns retrosPective BY @PilloWheAt PEANUTS ANd THE SNOOPY GANG Is it just me or are Snoopy & the Peanuts gang having an extended global moment in the collective unconscious right now?

Maybe it’s the case, whereby ever since I heard Vans were re-releasing the Peanuts collection I have subsequently seen them everywhere. I believe the RAS is the part of the brain responsible for this phenomenon.

Or perhaps it’s just good marketing. It must be subliminal, however, because at the time of writing this, there was no active marketing for the Snoopy drop. Of course Vans want to keep news of the drop “under the RADar” which is where it has remained since the 80s with the only exception being internal product launch booklet photos leaked online.

sneAkers 3/2014

Based on educated guesswork and a selftaught carbon dating system of original handmade examples, I believe Peanuts Vans saw first life circa 1989. Following on from the Vans x Disney release last year, the Vault sub-group again entertains iconic animated characters in the form of Charlie Brown, Snoopy, Lucy & Linus van Pelt, Peppermint Patty & Sally Brown.

I admit to adoring my Snoopy stuffed toy of my youth, however I’m not a Peanuts nut, nor do I have an aver-sion. But two things I do love are Vans and pastel tones. One of the strengths of the Vault range (and not of my personal collection) is the inclusion of the original pastel aqua, purple & pink colorways albeit with fancy model names. I'm not sure in what boxes the Vault line will be housed but I do love how the colorways resonate the comic strip reflect shades of the original boxes of the radical late 80s era and also that of the highly collectable Spruce sweats of the 70s.

The Vault line sees the return of two original prints including the „Snoopy & the Gang“ and „Camp Snoopy“ efforts. Although sitting somewhat more superficial on the canvas (which has more to do with quality of materials than anything), for the most part the prints are spot on and do justice to the original 80s design and Charles M. Schulz's illustrations. For me the Snoopy effort is the standout print.

But I'm not entirely sure why they insist on calling him „camp“? He looks far from effeminate or flamboyant in his Joe Cool sunglasses! The „Alphabet Snoopy“ print of the original 80s line did not see recital this time.

Admittedly, the print was on a small scale, which made it difficult to decipher the text and character, however it’s somewhat bolder than the softer modern alternatives.

A welcome addition to the 2014 collection is the printed Sk8-hi in the original form of the 80s Style #38! Before the days of the „ollie patch“ the first generation Sk8-hi featured a slimmer eye-stay & heel-stay, which has seen a re-birth in recent times of heritage influence. The favoring of the Sk8-hi is a strong move, which replaces the rubber toe Style #25 high top of the 80s/90s collection. The move is strengthened further, if I’m correct in assuming the sk8-hi indeed has the asymmetrical aqua (lateral) and purple (medial) quarters and the pink tongue of its original Style #25 counterpart? To complete the line, I would have loved to see the Slip-ons’ inclusion which is the undoubted Van-of-the-moment and perhaps with the color-coordinated toe bumper of the originals.

The most obvious Vault oversight you will have noticed is the absence of the printed midsole or Vans „scene“ featured on the American-made examples. Custom „scene“ options were part of the rich tradition of Vans customization dating back to the late 70s, a concept which itself has gone under the RADar. As with the Disney re-issues, Vans Vault decided to overlook the foxing detail for reasons unknown. What I do know is production methods of handcrafted originals are now seemingly obsolete, however did result in a rubber compound of greater integrity. Vans do entertain the „scene“ on the occasional modern release, however perhaps it is the integrity of today's rubber compound, which is not conducive to print? Of course the scene is what separates my originals from the re-issue, which is a bonus for me, although I feel it is this overlooked detail, which would have elesneAkers 3/2014

vated this line from its previous trajectory under the RADar. The original Peanuts Vans did fly low through the late 80s & early 90s outside of the odd example surfacing in Japan, the Made in USA examples barely register on the vintage global RADar. Of course the range was marketed for the 80s youth and like original Disney Vans were believed to have only been manufactured in women’s & kids sizes. I am lucky enough to have two vintage examples of men’s Snoopy Vans, which were custom made however.

I do hope that if Vans are going to appeal to the „kids-only state of mind“ in us all, as they claim, then the Vault drop should be available in all sizes. No need for an EpiPen because this drop could be the shot of adrenaline for those with Peanuts addiction or aversion alike!

o ri g in a l p a s te l s ty le # 9 5 v ia s u m a ll y. c o m

All vin tag e foo twe ar cou rte sy of the oth er sid e of the pill ow unl ess ref ere nce d oth erw ise . ww w.p illo wh eat .co m

vans vault 2014 product launch booklet

Interview

T

here are many similar sneaker blogs out there, sharing the same news and spreading the same releases. Defynewyork does all that – but it also has a much deeper layer. If you browse your way through the depth of the archive, you find a massive amount of old ads and vintage shoes from all eras paired with a profound knowledge of sneaker history. Scott Frederick is the brain behind the website and we were able keep him long enough from his desk to extract the following interview from him.

SNEAKERS 3/2014

Interview: Holger von Krosigk Portrait: Eddie Eng

A N IN TER V IEW WIT H SCOTT FREDERICK F R OM THE WEBS IT E DEFYNEWYORK.COM

Scott, can you briefly introduce yourself?

My name is Scott Frederick, I'm 32 years old born and raised in Freeport, New York. These days I'm busy with the site trying to make it bigger and better than ever, raising my son with my fiancée – passing on the shoe addiction too – and consulting as needed.

defynewyork isn’t your average name. What’s the story?

So, I was sitting around one day and I had this original Jordan IV poster hanging on a wall in my room. I was just admiring it and reading to myself "a high flying death defying 360 dunk". Now, if you check out the poster, Michael Jordan's knee is separating death from ”DEFY” with his knee slightly into the “D” and Spike Lee'sshoulder is blocking the “G” and part of the “N” so the focus is on “DEFY”. Of course defy.com was taken but it was actually a blessing.Since I was born, raised and live in New York I knew the site would have a New York vibe to it and thus Defynewyork.com was born.

Interview

How long have you been running it?

It’s hard to believe, but it will be seven years this May. I registered the domain defynewyork.com in 2007 at which point I intended it to be the blog for a planned brick and mortar store but, due to the economic crash during this time period that didn't happen. Defynewyork is the culmination of a lifelong obsession with footwear and the cultures that mixed together to give birth to what people call sneaker culture today. For me it started around 6 or 7 years old with an obsession for three shoes: The Reebok BB4600, the Nike Air Alpha Force Low and the Nike Air Jordan III. Those shoes were my gateway shoes into this obsession that would follow me into adulthood. A funny memory I'd like to share, as a kid I played sneaker store in my room – seriously. My mother kept my old sneakers (at my request) and then I would line them up on a dresser and pretend I was running a sneaker shop. Anyhow, as the years passed and more shoes from new brands released and these great ad campaigns came out it just got crazy. At one point my mother would just about have to drag me out of sneaker stores.

sneAkers 3/2014

How many people are involved in the website?

me by my grand-mother. You see, I was a big

It’s mainly me, but a childhood friend of mine,

kid. My parents had to buy me men’s shoes by

Jawara Small, my fiancee and a friend of the site,

the time I was 8 – I wore an 8.5 at that age – and

Steve Bryden, have helped when needed. Jawara

since kids go through several pairs of sneakers a

has done some artist (music) interviews for me

year, buying expensive ones was out of the ques-

and Steve represented Defynewyork as a sneaker

tion. It wasn't until my grandmother offered to

expert for Footlocker Europe at the Approved

take me sneaker-shopping for my birthday that I

Heat event.

had free range to pick what I wanted. Of all the great shoes on the wall I chose the Tech Chal-

What were your influences in New York and

lenge II 3/4 clay colorway and twenty four years

elsewhere when you grew up?

later and I can still remember the details of that

There were a lot of influences growing up and

purchase. Opening the box for the first time, my

exposure to so many things. I was definitely

grandmother standing over me with a worry-

influenced by the 90s Hip Hop and House

ing smile, because she knew my parents didn't

scene. Then there was just life in general. With

approve of me owning such expensive sneakers,

no Internet the streets were always live. In my

the smell of fresh sneakers in the store, memo-

neighborhood it was especially unique. You could

ries … From there Inever had another shoe that

experience so many cultures within a few blocks

expensive until I started paying for my own snea-

radius, it was great and I think you can find that

kers but I did get some say in my sneaker choices

cultural diversity on the website's pages.

and a shot at some better models like Solo Flights, Ultra Force 3/4's, Trainer Max 91's, Reebok Twi-

You mentioned the Tech Challenge as the first

light Zone Pumps and so on. The first expensive

"expensive" shoe. Can you share the story of that

sneaker I bought myself was the original Jordan

purchase?

XIII in white black red.

Actually, the Tech Challenge II was bought for

Interview

When i look at your website, the first thing

the straps to the back of course. This shoe in

that strikes me is the degree of diversification.

particular was worn by everyone From 2pac

is that a reflection of your own taste?

to Kool G Rap to Martin Lawrence and could

It’s definitely a reflection of my own taste, my

be found everywhere in some really dope

own experiences with footwear. Back in the

colorways. I know a lot of people are die hard

day, sneaker store shelves were full of div-er-

fans of the Air Force 1 HI and I‘ll catch slack

sity. Today, you walk into a store and its 90 %

for this but the design on the FX 100 is just

Nike/Jordan and the remaining 10%, like 5

better. While both shoes are similar and the

other brands. In the late 80s early 90s

AF1 obviously came first, the FX 100‘s design

there was Nike, Reebok, adidas, Converse

IMO has a far more polished look.

and New Balance but there were also brands like Xanthus, Ewing, Etonic, Travel Fox, Asics,

Speaking of brands like FiLA, i‘m going to

Puma, FILA, L.A. Gear, Keds, Champion,

name a few companies that are putting a lot of

British Knights, Troop, LeCoq Sportif, Ellesse

effort in their comeback. Please give us your

etc. And it wasn‘t like they only had one shoe

opinion on them and let’s start with diadora ...

from each of these brands, there were multi-

A friend and I discuss this brand frequently. I

ple styles. Defynewyork is a reflection of that

think they have the potential to grab some at-

time period.

tention if they do right by their retro product, which I understand, they will.

You mentioned the Fila FX100 in one of your texts and we‘ve even quoted that in our magazine. Was it really that huge in New York at the time it came out?

Yes! The FILA FX 100 was a big shoe for the time period. A lot of people wore them – with

sneAkers 3/2014

Interview

Pony?

One of the big trends which are coming

The current owners of the brand are doing

back is tennis. What do you think is the reason

right by them but I think the brand is limited

this is coming back right now and what‘s your

in its styles and what they can offer. If they can

personal connection to tennis?

keep the prices affordable they should be ok.

I think tennis has been largely ignored for a long time. Running, basketball and skate has

Le Coq Sportif?

been done to death so they’re looking for some-

I really like Le Coq Sportif and think they

where else they could go and tennis just

have pumped out solid releases over the years.

makes sense. It reminds me of the situation

As long as they don‘t try to do to much to fast

with Ewing Athletics, where they bring back

they can get their piece.

the33 HI and then suddenly Reebok brings back the Shaq Attaq and adidas the Mutom-

FiLA? FILA has the greatest potential of everyone on

bo. Once one brand makes a move they all start a mad dash for a response.

this list for success. With a solid back catalog of dope kicks they can do it if they handle their retro releases better.

Scott, this was a really good conversation.

Can we close it with a list of your top 5 sneakers of all time?

Kangaroos?

Yes, we can. Nike Tech Challenge II ¾,

I like Roos but I can‘t see them growing

Reebok Twilight Zone Pump, Nike Air Jordan

much larger than they already are. They have

IV, Ewing 33 Hi, first Nike Air Max Plus.

a few solid shoes but not enough to run with the big dogs.

sneAkers 3/2014

Dealer inquiries welcome! info@lousylivin.com

Crep Protect Rain & Stain and Cure Cleaner

DIRT IS DONE DIRT IS sneAkers 3/2014

w

e all know the terrible situation. Summer’s in full swing, the sun is shining and you’re wearing your precious ones for the first time.

Suddenly dark clouds are looming on the horizon and you know what’s next – rain and, even worse, dirt! For all of you fearful and paranoid sneakerheads, the UK brand Crep Protect has the solution – or rather two solutions.

Their first product, the “Ultimate Rain & Stain Resistant Barrier” spray does what it says. You apply it preemptively, before your sneakers are ruined, and the nanocoating protects it from rain and dirt. Whether the upper is made from suede, leather or even canvas, everything drips off. It really does work, we’ve tried it. You can pour ketchup over it (!) and wash it off just like that.

In case you haven’t protected your sneakers with the nano coating, no problem. The guys from the UK have developed a new cleaning product as well.

The “Cure Cleaner” is a 100 % biodegradable solution that helps you fight the most terrible dirt attacks. It comes in a “miniature shoe box” packaging that also includes a 100 % natural horse hair brush for gentle brushing, a bristle brush for tougher materials and a microfiber cloth.

We’re excited about so much care and thoughtfulness. Crep Protect is a product from sneakerheads for sneakerheads. The UK brand is quickly expanding and the products will soon be available in more countries. www.cre ppr ote c t.com

© 2014 Bernd Hummel GmbH. „KangaROOS®, ROOS® and the kangaroo device are registered trade marks owned by and used under licence from Asco Group Limited“

www.facebook.com/ROOS www.kangaroos.de

RAGE

BORN 2012

SNEAKERS 3/2014

Photos: Raphael Schmitz

Food Styling: Tobias Rauschenberger

VANS Half Cab

NIKE Air Max Lunar 1 wmns

SNEAKERS 3/2014

Le Coq Sportif Eclat

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SNEAKERS 3/2014

REEBOK Ventilator

SNEAKERS 3/2014

KangaROOS Coil R1

Interview

Ein Interview mit Rico Holdt

Bei einem der Berliner Solemarts tauchte auf einmal ein für mich bis dahin unbekanntes Gesicht an unserem Stand der Turnschuhzuhälter auf. Der routinemäßige Blick abwärts aufs Schuhwerk ließ mich schwarz/pinke Nike Air Max 1 Powerwalls an seinen Füßen erblicken, sodass ich völlig vorurteilsfrei von einem weiteren ganz „normalen“ Sneakerverrückten ausgehen musste. Als besagter Typ dann aber zielstrebig und mit diesem Funkeln in den Augen auf zwei der ältesten Nike Runner Modelle unserer „Auslage“ zusteuerte, sollte sich das Blatt unerwartet wenden.

Er stellte sich als Rico vor und wir kamen ins Gespräch, in dessen Verlauf ich einen Enthusiasmus bei meinem Gegenüber für das OG Thema heraushören konnte, wie ich ihn lange nicht mehr erlebt hatte. Nach kurzem standesgemäßen Handeln wurde der Deal über die zwei Vintage Runner dann besiegelt. Damit bekräftigte sich mein Eindruck einen echten Sammler vor mir zu haben noch mehr, da beide Paare nicht mal seiner Größe entsprachen. Genau in diesem Moment gesellte sich dann plötzlich auch noch Vintage-Urgestein Atti zu uns, begutachtete den Deal und stieg gleich mit ein in unsere Diskussion über die alten Schätze. Als ich merkte, dass Rico nach gefühlten Stunden Sneakertalk immer noch an Attis Lippen hing, kam mir plötzlich der Gedanke, dass dieses Aufeinandertreffen wohlmöglich ein klassischer Moment des von mir viel zitierten „Sneakerkarmas“ war – also gar kein Zufall. Hieraus entstand die Idee, ihn und seine Sammlung mal etwas genauer unter die Lupe zu nehmen.

Wie sich auf den folgenden Seiten zeigt, ist das Sneakerkarma offensichtlich KEINE Bitch!

SNEAKERS 3/2014

Interview

sneAkers 3/2014

Tony: Hey Rico, cool, dass du Zeit gefunden

grinsen, wenn ich an die geile Aktion

hast, um unser Gespräch vom Solemart

damals beim Solemart zurückdenke. Ich

noch mal etwas zu vertiefen.

weiß noch, dass ich wirklich frustriert war,

Rico: Na klar, ich freu mich an Board zu sein.

weil ich weit und breit nix Ansprechendes

Vor allem auch, weil ich so mal wieder ein

gefunden habe und schon die Heimreise

paar Tage Berlin unsicher

antreten wollte. Als meine Augen dann vor

machen kann.

euerm Stand die LDV-Nylons und die Cascades ins Visier genommen haben, schoss mein

Tony: Mich und unsere Leser interessiert

Puls augenblicklich 200 Schläge nach oben.

natürlich auch immer besonders die Person

Beide Modelle standen damals auch ganz

„hinterm“ Schuh – wer ist Rico? Kurz

weit oben auf meiner holy grail Liste!

in deinen eigenen Worten.

Rico: Naja, Rico der Typ mit der

Tony: Lustig das mal aus dieser Perspektive

Turnschuhmacke eben. Der Eine oder

zu hören. Mir geht es manchmal als

Andere kennt mich vielleicht noch

Verkäufer nämlich genauso, dass ich es

unter meinem Nickname „Gizmo“,

einfach nicht verstehen kann, wenn so krasse

mit dem ich in einigen Foren und auf

Raritäten, die oft älter als der Schnitt des

Sneakerplay unterwegs war. Ich bin 30

Publikums sind, kaum Beachtung finden,

Jahre alt, lebe in Deutschlands sonnigem

während irgendwelche Yeezys 1000 Mal am

Süden und arbeite als Teamleiter in einem

Tag angegrabscht werden.

Großhandelsunternehmen.

Rico: Da muss ich dir sagen, dass mich das zwar auch wundert, aber keinesfalls stört.

Tony: Ich hab immer noch genau deinen

So bleiben die Vintage Perlen eben für mich

Gesichtsausdruck vor Augen, als du beim

übrig.

Solemart vor ein paar Jahren bei uns am Stand die alten Runner entdeckt hast. Das

Tony: Mit deiner Vorliebe zur alten Schule

war ja schon fast eine Schockstarre!

habe ich dich ja schon angekündigt, aber lass

Rico: Tony, ich muss auch immer wieder

uns doch noch einmal etwas weiter in deiner

Interview

Geschichte zurückgehen – wie bist

Herzo nun ja eher für die drei /// und den

du auf den Schuh gekommen?

springenden Puma bekannt.

Rico: Der Startschuss für meine Liebe zu

Rico: Richtig, aber aus irgendeinem Grund

Sportschuhen fiel 1994, als mein Vater ein

hatten die damals, natürlich im Nike Outlet,

paar Air Tailwinds anschleppte, die er sich

auch die 11er stehen. Stell dir mal vor, was

zum Laufen gekauft hatte. Ich war damals so

das heute bedeuten würde!

geflasht von den knalligen Farben und dem großen Air Bubble, dass ich diesen Schuh

Tony: Geile Vorstellung auf jeden Fall. Aber

auch unbedingt haben wollte.

wie bist du dann nach dem Tailwind auf

Tony: Also vom eigenen Erzeuger auf den Fix

einmal beim Jordan bzw. Basketballschuh

gebracht worden – schlimme Zustände da

gelandet?

bei euch im Süden!

Rico: Die 11er hatten es mir irgendwie

Rico: Hahaha, ich glaube er war sich

angetan und ich hatte zu dieser Zeit auch

den Spätfolgen einfach nicht bewusst.

gerade angefangen Basketball zu spielen.

Eine gewisse Mitschuld an meiner großen

Einige Spieler rockten damals Air Flights, die

Leidenschaft zu Nike Runnern trägt mein

frisch geretroten Dunks oder eben Jordans.

Alter also auf jeden Fall – Dad, vielen

Und so kam ich auch mit anderen Nike

Dank dafür!

Modellen als mit Runnern in Berührung.

Tony: Wann gab’s dann dein Paar Tailwinds?

Tony: Und was war nun mit den Tailwinds?

Rico: Das hat noch ne Weile auf sich

Rico: Immer mit der Ruhe Tony, erstmal

warten lassen. Meine ersten Nikes waren,

ging es noch weiter in die andere Richtung.

erstmal ganz untypisch, ein Paar Jordan 11er

Durch meine Leidenschaft für Hip Hop und

Concord, die vom Taschengeld im Outlet in

Basketball war mein Fokus einfach mehr bei

Herzogenaurach geshoppt wurden.

Force, Jordan, Dunk und Uptempo aber auch Klassikern wie einem geilen grauen Cortez,

Tony: Moment mal, bist du dir sicher, dass du da nicht was verwechselst? Schließlich ist

SNEAKERS 3/2014

den ich mir 1999 gegönnt habe.

Interview

Tony: War das dann schon bewusstes Sammeln, oder nur gesteigertes Interesse?

Und wann kam dann nun der Wechsel im Kurs?

Rico: Richtig bewusst angefangen zu

endlich das Tailwind-Happy-End?

sammeln habe ich tatsächlich so um

Spann uns doch nicht so auf die Folter!

die Jahrtausendwende mit den gerade

Rico: Du bist ja schlimmer als ich, wenn

genannten Modellen. Meine große Liebe zu

es um die alten Mauken und die Stories

Nike Runnern flammte dann aber erst so

dahinter geht, Tony. Das war so ein

richtig auf, als ich 2003 in Stuggi auf einen

schleichender Prozess. Ich verlor irgendwann

reduzierten Air Max 1 Chili und einen Shima

einfach das Interesse an den Releases, die

Shima gestoßen bin. Spätestens ab da war

zu jener Zeit herauskamen. Zwar muss

ich dann richtig mit dem Runner Virus

man dazu sagen, dass diesem ganzen

infiziert und es folgten weitere Modelle der

Hype um die Limited Editions, Exclusives,

1er, 90er, 93er und 95er Serie.

etc. damals noch kein so wirklich großes Interesse geschenkt wurde, so wie heute, wo

Tony: Und wie bist du dann davon letztlich

man die gleichen Modellean mittlerweile

bei den OGs gelandet bzw. wann gab es

jedem zweiten Fuß findet! Dennoch hatte

SNEAKERS 3/2014

ich irgendwann die Schnauze voll vom 0815

unfassbar coole alte Modelle. Ich war auf

Kram.

einmal vom staubigen Virus der alten Schule infiziert. Ein paar Wochen später wurde ich auf

Tony: Wenn du jetzt nicht gleich mit dem

eBay fündig und die Tailwinds waren im Sack!

Tailwind kommst, muss ich dir die LDVs

Spätestens ab diesemZeit-punkt war mein Kopf

leider wieder abnehmen!

dann komplett auf OG gepolt!

rico: Hahaha, beruhig dich! Der Anstoß kam durch einen Freund aus Stuttgart, der mich besuchte und zu diesem Anlass ein Paar Huarache International trug. Ich fand die Dinger so derbe geil, dass ich diesen Schuh immer wieder in die Hand nehmen und anstarren musste. Durch dieses Erlebnis kam mir auch wieder der 94er Tailwind von meinem Dad in den Sinn, der mich als Dreikäsehoch so geflasht hatte. Ich begab mich also kurzer Hand im Netz auf die Suche und stolperte dabei über immer mehr

Interview

SNEAKERS 3/2014

Tony: Aber es gibt doch auch jede Menge alte

deiner Sammlung auffällt, ist, dass sowohl

Schätze aus anderen Kategorien mit einem

die alte Schule mit Modellen aus den 70ern

Swoosh drauf und natürlich haben andere

und 80ern vertreten ist, aber auch ohne

Mütter auch schöne Töchter. Warum also

Ende Runner aus den 90er Jahren, also die

nur Nike und nur deren Runner?

Mid School, sozusagen.

Rico: Was mich zunächst mal am

Rico: Stimmt, es gibt da einen gewissen

klassischen Nike Runner fasziniert, ist die

Split in meiner Sammlung. Ich bin das

Symbiose aus schlicht gehaltenem

schon vorher gefragt worden, also warum

Shape, hochwertigem Material, guter

ich auf Old- und Mid-School-Sachen

Verarbeitung, flashiger Farbe und einem 1A

gleichermaßen abgehe. Meistens ist es ja

Tragekomfort, der selbst heutigen Modellen

so, dass man als Collector entweder die eine

mit aktueller Technik oft das Wasser reichen

oder die andere Schiene fährt. Was meine

kann. Aber auch im Bereich Werbung,

Vorliebe für Mid School Nikes angeht, waren

also unterm Strich Style und Image der

letztlich die Tailwinds ausschlaggebend. Von

Schuhe, war und ist Nike meiner Meinung

da an habe ich mich an den ganzen 90er

nach richtungsweisend und hat sich seine

Sachen orientiert. Da der Hype auch um

Lorbeeren im Turnschuh-Olymp auf jeden

diese Modelle noch lange nicht so krass war

Fall zu Recht verdient. Und eben auch die

wie heute, konnte man hier und da noch ein

Pole-Position in meinem Sammlerherz! Ein

paar wirklich gute Schnäppchen schießen.

weiteres, zugegebenermaßen vielleicht etwas

Irgendwann flatterte mir dann mal eine alte

romantisches Argument dafür, sind für

Nike Anzeige eines Terra TCs in die Hände

michauch die wunderschönen Modellnamen

und das war wohl der Startschuss für die

vergangener Tage!

richtig alten Sachen. Insgeheim fließt mein Herzblut aber schon etwas mehr für die

Tony: Da muss ich dir absolut Recht geben,

90s Runner, da mit ihnen alles angefangen

gut dass das mal gesagt wurde. Was mir bei

hat.

Interview

Tony: Sowohl beim Solemart als auch

Ich saß also ganz schön in der Scheiße, und

heute bist du aber mit Retros angetanzt,

die Zeit bis zum Anschlussflug rannte mir

offensichtlich also kein No-Go für dich?

davon. Also entschloss ich mich kurzerhand,

Rico: Nein, keinesfalls. Granaten wie meinen

eine nette Dame vom Infoschalter

Huarache LE Teal Sample von 2003, die 1er

anzuhauen, sich draußen mit dem Typen

Max Powerwalls, Opium 180er, oder meine

zu treffen und mir den Schuh zu bringen.

Huarache Lights rocke ich regelmäßig.

Ich drückte ihr 200 Euro in die Hand und

Den Hua Light finde ich persönlich

konnte nur hoffen. Es vergingen 5 Minuten,

übrigens, neben dem Terra TC und den

10 Minuten, 15 Minuten und die Zeit bis

diversen Skylons, den bequemsten Runner

zum Anschlussflug wurde immer knapper.

den Nike jemals produziert hat. Zu dem

20 Minuten und 5 Liter Angstschweiß später

180er fällt mir übrigens noch ein kleiner

hielt ich dann endlich das Objekt der

Krimi ein: 2008 bin ich für zwei Wochen

Begierde in meinen Händen. Womit wir

mit dem Rucksack nach Bali geflogen und

wieder mal beim Sneakerkarma wären!

habe am Tag der Abreise am Frankfurter Flughafen noch ein Gebot für den Opium

Tony: Herrliche Geschichte. Kann es dir

auf eBay abgegeben. Auf Bali angekommen

genau nachfühlen, mir ist mal exakt das

ins erste WLan eingeloggt und gecheckt,

gleiche passiert. Allerdings in Amerika

dass ich den Zuschlag bekommenhatte. Als

und es ging nicht um Schuhe, sondern

mir auffiel, dass der Typ in Singapur

um ein Trampolin, aber das ist nochmal ne

wohnt und ich auf dem Rückflug einen

andere Story. Spielt denn Tragbarkeit oder

kurzen Stop am Changi Airport machen

Größe eine Rolle für dich?

würde, fragte ich ihn, ob wir uns dort

Rico: Ich versuche natürlich schon Modelle

treffen könnten. Gesagt getan, ich landete

zu finden, die noch tragbar sind, aber

also in Singapur und rief den Kollegen an.

prinzipiell mache ich es nicht allein davon

Was wir beide allerdings nicht bedacht

abhängig. Ich gönne mir, was mir persönlich

hatten war, dass keiner von uns beiden

gut gefällt. Dabei spielt es keine Rolle, ob

auf die Terminalebene des Anderen kam.

das nun kleine Größen, Wmns CWs oder

SNEAKERS 3/2014

Bröselkandidaten sind. Auch wenn das

einen von meiner Liste streichen. Ich habe

unlogisch, oder eben nerdig ist, aber mir

einen Air Pegasus Racer, Baujahr 90 in neon-

geht es dabei auch echt ums Sammeln an

gelb/rot geschossen. Supergeiler CW, die

sich. Ein Modell, das herausragende Design

Farben knallen richtig! Aber da steht noch

bzw. ein Stück der Nike Geschichte zu

einiges drauf. Ich brauche auf jeden Fall

besitzen. Klar, sind die Dinger zum Tragen

noch nen Aloha im woman’s Colorway und

gemacht worden, aber eben auch nicht für

auch gegen einen Omega Flames hätte ich

die Ewigkeit und das möchte ich sozusagen

nichts.

konservieren. In einer Modell-eisenbahn kannste ja auch nicht durch die Gegend

Tony: Haste noch was auf dem Herzen, was

fahren!

du loswerden willst?

Rico: Ich möchte nicht nörgeln, aber ich

Tony: Dürfte zumindest schwer werden.

finde es schade, dass Nike bei den aktuellen

Schwer wird dir sicher auch die Antwort

Releases nicht mehr an die Qualität

auf die Frage nach deinem all time Favorit

vergangener Tage anknüpfen kann. Ein gutes

fallen?

Beispiel ist der Air Base Retro von 2013. Was

Rico: Spontan würde ich das mit Nike Aloha

zur Hölle hat die Designer geritten, diesen

von 1984 beantworten, dicht gefolgt von

schönen Schuh derart zu verunstalten?!

Centurion und Bermuda, die ich beide auch

Bei dem Ding wirkt irgendwie alles billig:

vergöttere. Aber auch hier gibt es wieder

Form, Farbe, Material. Am meisten nervt

diesen Spagat in meinem Geschmack bzw.

mich, dass hochwertigen Materialien

meiner Sammlung, denn auch sämtliche

offensichtlich immer weniger Interesse

Modelle der Air Skylon und der Air Alpha

geschenkt wird, aber in Sachen Shape und

Reihe stehen ebenfalls sehr hoch

Design jede zweite Woche angeblich

im Kurs.

der Turnschuh völlig neu erfunden wurde.

Das passt doch nicht zusammen. Genau

Tony: Holy grail noch in der Pipe?

wie dieser Hybrid-Overkill. Klar, gab es in

Rico: Gerade neulich erst konnte ich wieder

den frühen 90ern auch schon mal Hybrids,

Interview

aber irgendwie scheint es mir jetzt nur noch ums Verwursten zu gehen. Vielleicht wäre der richtige Ansatz, lieber mal eine weitere belanglose Mauke auszulassen und sich mehr auf die alten Standards in Qualität und Formgebung zu konzentrieren. Aber es gibt auch Lichtblicke, den 89er Pegasus fand ich zum Beispiel sehr gelungen.

Tony: Rico, danke dir für den Einblick in deinen Sammler Kosmos. Bewahr dir deine Leidenschaft. Ich bin mir sicher, dass noch viele Vintage Perlen den Weg in deine Sammlung finden werden.

Rico: Ich danke dir, war mir eine Ehre dabei zu sein. Ein ganz spezieller Dank geht an meine Eltern und meine ganze Family, und an meine Freunde, die immer für mich da sind und mit mir durch Dick und Dünn gehen. Besonders natürlich an meine Freundin. Much Love!

SNEAKERS 3/2014

Collection Check

Boxfresh was founded in 1989 and over the past decades, the brand has created its own style and niche within the sneaker industry. Models such as the Swich, pictured here, have become footwear staples. As the running category dominates the design language, the UK brand has updated some of their models with a new sole unit. The “Katashi” version of the Swich is a well-balanced hybrid and infuses the casual model with a good dose of “street”.

SNEAKERS 3/2014

Collection Check

SNEAKERS 3/2014

2014 has been seeing lots of microtrends that exist side by side.

2014 has been seeing lots of microtrends that exist side by side.

Next to the overarching running category, the tennis comeback Next to the overarching running category, the tennis comeback and even basketball looming on the horizon, print has been a and even basketball looming on the horizon, print has been a big big topic. But not every all-over assault is a step in the right topic. But not every all-over assault is a step in the right direction. direction. Le Coq Sportif shows how it’s done in a subtle and Le Coq Sportif shows how it’s done in a subtle and more sophismore sophisticated way. Women’s models like the Eclat and ticated way. Women’s models like the Eclat and R1400 shown R1400 shown here and the flowered version for men are perfect here and the flowered version for men are perfect examples for examples for sneaker design with an eye for detail. sneaker design with an eye for detail.

Collection Check

2014 is a strong year for Lacoste. With the tennis comeback in full swing and a new appreciation of white footwear in general, the French powerhouse couldn’t be in a brighter spot. For this year, Lacoste has several limited editions with top international retailers such as Hanon lined up. But collaborations alone don’t do justice to the brand. The style of the “croc” is unique and you definitely can’t go wrong with simple boat styles such as the Croxton pictured here.

SNEAKERS 3/2014

Collection Check

So this year’s all about tennis? Not really. Basketball has been there all the way, even when the first sneakers were introduced in the early 20th century, and it has dominated the golden days back in the 80s. Meanwhile, German baller brand K1X can look back on over 20 years of its on history and keeps updating its sneaker game with new models, materials and color palettes. The J-Tra1n is a new training shoe coming in August. The sole is inspired by the unit used for the Anti-Gravity and incorporates the same cushioning elements.

The side elements are made from PU nubuck.

SNEAKERS 3/2014

Image © Dean Cheng

EINE STREETWEAR, S K AT E B O A R D I N G UND SNEAKER MESSE IN BERLIN J U LY 8 — J U LY 10 2 014

BRIGHT NIGHTS B R U N N E N ST R . 19 – 21, BERLIN / MITTE B R I G H T T R A D E S H O W. C O M

XIX

Text: Jürgen Blümlein (Made for Skate / Fauxami) Interview: Don Brown (Vice President, Sole Technology)

History Check

The History and Return of éS Footwear

SNEAKERS 3/2014

They say you never know how much you’ll miss something until it’s gone. In August 2011, skateboard shoe production company Sole Technology announced the discontinuation of their éS Footwear brand for the foreseeable future. Dubbed a “creative retreat,” the selfimposed hiatus ended the 16-year run of one of the most cherished skateboard footwear brands of all time. Fans around the world were speechless – and immediately wanted the brand to come back. Because in the tightly-knit skateboarding universe, éS Footwear was more than just a skateboardspecific shoe brand. An emblematic product of the 1990s, éS single-handedly created the “top-shelf” footwear category in board sports with athletic-inspired designs, upscale materials and innovative technologies at higher price points, backed by an elite team of the world’s best skateboarders. éS Footwear had left such a deep imprint on skateboard culture and beyond – check the cover of this magazine, the letter “e” in the SNEAKERS logo pays homage – that die-hard skaters feared: If éS Footwear was to go away, it would take a piece of skateboarding along with it. But much to everyone’s relief, an innocuous photo popped up on Instagram a few months ago: A bright-red shoebox with the stylized letters “éS” in crisp, white typeface accompanied by the question, “GuéSs who’s back?!” Valentine’s Day 2014 saw the glorious return of éS Footwear at limited quantities, sold only at select skateboard retailers. The first drop, available in the brand’s signature red colorway and more muted black versions, consists of the vulc style Accent, the skatespecific cup sole Accelerate and athletic running AccelLite models. And that’s it – at least for now.

History Check

Accel (1995)

» The retail partners we’ve chosen have been big éS supporters.

They were asking us every day to bring éS back and are retailers that are active in giving back to the skate community. « They say you never know how much you’ll miss something until it’s gone. In August 2011,

Aura (1995)

skateboard shoe production company Sole Technology announced the discontinuation of their éS Footwear brand for the foreseeable future. Dubbed a “creative retreat,” the selfimposed hiatus ended the 16-year run of one of the most cherished skateboard footwear brands of all time. Fans around the world

Sal 23 (1995)

were speechless – and immediately wanted the brand to come back. Because in the tightlyknit skateboarding universe, éS Footwear was more than just a skateboard-specific shoe brand. An emblematic product of the 1990s, éS single-handedly created the “top-shelf”

Koston 1 (1997)

footwear category in board sports with athletic-inspired designs, up-scale materials and innovative technologies at higher price points, backed by an elite team of the world’s best skateboarders. éS Footwear had left such a deep imprint on skateboard culture and beyond – check the cover of this magazine, the

Muska (1997) SNEAKERS 3/2014

letter “e” in the SNEAKERS logo pays homage – that die-hard skaters feared: If éS Footwear was to go away, it would take a piece of skateboarding along with it. But much to everyone’s relief, an innocuous photo popped up on Instagram a few months ago: A bright-

Contract (Paul Rodriguez, 2003)

red shoebox with the stylized letters “éS” in crisp, white typeface accompanied by the question, “GuéSs who’s back?!” Valentine’s Day 2014 saw the glorious return of éS Footwear at limited quantities, sold only at éS One (2009)

select skateboard retailers.

The first drop, available in the brand’s signature red colorway and more muted black versions, consists of the vulc style Accent, the skateKoston 2 (1998)

specific cup sole Accelerate and athletic running AccelLite models. And that’s it – at least for now. But what about a new pro team?

The next colorways? And how about more retro models, the Koston 1, perhaps? The return of éS sure keeps people guéSsing. For this special feature, SNEAKERS dug up some

K3 (2000)

milestones from the history of the brand that took skateboard shoes from the gutter to the top shelf and spoke to Don Brown, cofounder of éS Footwear and Vice President of Marketing at Sole Technology (also home of etnies, Emerica, and 32 shoes). But let’s start from the beginning.

Burnquist 2 (2002)

History Check

THE NAUGHTY NINETIES

Cut as a top seller, etnies built a war chest

The early 1990s brought landmark

to make some major moves. Coming up: A

changes to the skateboard scene. Half pipe

next-level foot-wear brand.

skateboarding, regarded as the defining

In 1995, Pierre André Sénizergues

riding style throughout the 1980s, passed

and Don Brown roundedup some of the

the torch to street skating as the new

best street skateboarders at the time and

de rigueur way to shred. With technical

announced the start of a new company:

street skating came the need for low-cut

With the name éS derived from the first

shoes, freeing up the ankles for nimble

and last letter of “etnies”, the elite team

foot movement. Athletic styles such as

consisted of Eric Koston, Tom Penny,

the Suede and Clyde models by Puma

Ronnie Creager, and Chad Muska. To help

and the adidas Gazelle emerged as

get things off the ground for éS Footwear,

favorites appropriated by the new breed of

pro skater Sal Barbier and his popular

skateboarders, preferably combined with

Sal 23 model – named as a nod to Air

ridiculously oversized pants.

Jordan’s signature numericals –came

One of the first skateboard companies

onboard from etnies. Little known fact:

to feed the need for shoes designed

Early artwork for advertisements and the

specifically for street skating was French

actual éS Footwear logo were created by

brand etnies, initially brought to the US

UK skateboarder Alex Wise, who worked at

by professional freestyle skateboarder

Sole Technology in Huntington Beach for a

Pierre André Sénizergues. Released in 1993,

rather short time.

the etnies Lo-Cut model – co-designed by etnies marketing manager and pro

TECHNICAL FOCUS

skate-boarder Don Brown – became

What separated éS Footwear from other

the blueprint for functional, low-top

companies on the market was more than

skateboard shoes with a suede upper on a

just one of the best pro teams in the

flexible cup sole foundation. With the Low-

entire history of skateboarding. éS also

SNEAKERS 3/2014

set out to approach the technical aspects

of his first signature pro model, which also

of skateboard footwear construction,

featured rubber lace loops as a technical

introducing new technologies and

novelty.

performance-enhancing features.

A major legacy began in 1997, when éS

Novelties and first-ever features introduced

released the first pro model shoe for team

to skateboarding by éS included sock liners

rider Eric Koston, arguably the best street

included in the initial SLB model, while the

skater of his generation. Inspired by

Aura model featured the very first ‘air’

a volleyball and trekking shoe, Koston

pocket in a skateboard shoe (the Nike Air

allegedly drew the design for the Koston

patent monopoly had just expired) together

01 on the back of a napkin. While the

with covered lace loops for wear protection.

silhouette and features of the high-tech,

The major breakthrough for éS Footwear

athletic sneaker pushed the envelope of

arrived in late 1995 with the Accel model.

skateboard shoe design, the price point

Designed by Pierre André Sénizergues,

propelled skateboard footwear well beyond

the shoe defined the next generation of

the threedigit threshhold. Nevertheless,

technically enhanced skateboard footwear.

the Koston 01 became a major seller for

The best-selling shoe in the history of the

éS, and mint condition pairs still fetch

entire brand, the Accel would remain a

over $900 on eBay today. Over the years, éS

staple part of the line-up for the next 16

Footwear would introduce a new Koston

years.

pro model every year, starting a series akin to the Air Jordan heritage at Nike. By the

PRO INFLUENCE

time Eric Koston actually left éS Footwear

Key design inspiration also came from

in a much-publicized move to join Michael

the pro skaters themselves. Chad Muska,

Jordan as an official Nike athlete in 2006, a

having found the Cheech to his Chong in

total of seven Koston pro models had hit

fellow éS team rider Tom Penny, added a

the market, each a classic design in its own

hidden stash pocket into the puffy tongues

right.

History Check

RETRO RETURNS WITH A VENGEANCE While éS Footwear retained a future-

technical footwear was moving out. Caught

oriented outlook on advancing the state-

in the crossfire, éS Footwear made attempts

of-the-art in shoe design – backed by

tokeep up with the times, even going as

Sole Technology’s in-house research &

far as releasing the Koston 1 model in a

development facility, the STI Lab – the

vulcanized version – dubbed the éS One –

skateboard scene turned its back on technical

for the company’s 15th anniversary in 2010.

performance footwear in2006. Bolstered by

But soon after popping corks for the

classic shoe releases such as the Emerica

anniversary celebrations, Sole Technology

Reynolds 3 model, the pendulum swung

had to break the sad news that éS Footwear

to the opposite end of the style spectrum.

would be going to hibernate until the tide

Simple, vulcanized shoe constructions

once again changed and the market was

reminiscentof 1970s boat shoes returned

ready for technical innovation and next-

with a vengeance, replacing the overtly

level shoe designs. Which brings our story

technical looking style of the Accel model

full circle to the recent rebirth of the brand

and its countless follow-ups. Although éS

at select ‘action culture’ stores. With the éS

Footwear once again upped the ante in

comeback story still unfolding, it’s safe to

2009 with the release of one of the lightest,

say that expectations are high, and fans

yet sturdiest skate-specific shoes of all time,

are guessing about what will happen next.

the Breeze model, the writing was on the

Here are some answers from Don Brown,

wall. Vulcanized simplicity was coming in,

éSpecially for you.

SNEAKERS 3/2014

History Check

Interview, Don Brown

like the Koston 1 are already selling for high

(Vice President, Sole Technology)

prices on eBay. It‘s already happening. There are some

Thank you Don for giving us the

serious collectors of skate shoes out there

opportunity to discuss the relaunch of éS

and specifically for éS since we pioneered

footwear. Please give us some insight, what

technical, athlete-inspired skate shoes. The

gave you the idea to bring back éS after the

1990s were a turning point in skate footwear.

hiatus?

Many of the sneaker heads grew up in this

Since we put éS on creative retreat back in

period and know éS really well. Many of the

2012 we’ve had éS fans from all over the

profiles of people that are following éS on

world contacting us, asking to bring éS back.

Instagram, Facebook, and Twitter are sneaker

The demand in Japan was so strong that we

heads loving the fact that éS is back, as the

made a special production of Accels for them

brand is what introduced them to their love

in four colors: Black, Brown, Red, White.

of great shoe design and style.

These shoes became the four top selling shoes in the skate shops we sold to. It was

Now that you’re back, we must say: It

around then that we felt we had to provide

seems like the hiatus happened rather quickly.

skateboarders and éS fans around the world

In 2011, éS introduced new team riders and

with some fresh éS styles. So we launched the

an iPad app, next thing you know – creative

new styles: The Accent, The Accelerate, and

retreat. Were the sales numbers really that

The Accelite, which have all been received

bad?

really well!

Being able to contribute to the skateboarding community and making a difference in

As we all know, fashion trends move in

design and innovation are the foundations

cycles. Do you think that with the recent

of éS. The dynamics of the skate footwear

1990s revival, skate shoes from that era will

business had changed dramatically over

become collectibles for sneaker heads? Models

the past ten years. And in 2012, despite

SNEAKERS 3/2014

the tide for a bit before the break? Looking into the 2011 line-up, nearly 90% of éS shoes were vulc and looked very basic.

Vulcanized shoes are a method of making shoes from the early 1900s, way before skateboarding existed. Vulcanized footwear doesn’t offer skateboarders a lot of protection or longevity of their joints! The riders that helped the resurgence of vulcanized shoes are a mess from the abuse that skateboarding has put on their bodies. If they were wearing éS shoes with superior comfort, perhaps they‘d be in a lot better condition today?!

Skateboard footwear trends are on a cycle éS focusing on innovative designs and campaigns, the market just wanted cheap black and white vulcanized shoes. The kind every other shoe brand made. So it wasn’t so much a sales issue, it was more that we wanted to step back to take a breath of fresh air. We assessed where skate footwear is, where it’s going and where éS could make a valuable contribution and difference. éS is probably the first brand to ever do this!

But was éS Footwear trying to swim with

and once you have a set positioning in

History Check

the mind of the market it’s challenging to

and is very detail-orientated. It definitely helps

change… éS is known for innovation, design

when you’re designing shoes for a pro and

and comfort so when the market went to

they know what they want and have a strong

older, cheaper technology, it definitely made

vision.

it more challenging for all skate footwear brands.

Let’s take a look at the models. The Accelerate looks like the 2011 Keano model

One of the worst repercussions of the time

went to bed with the Accel. So the shoe that

out for éS Footwear was disbanding the team

started it all will be the key design element for

– surely one of the best in the skateboard

the upcoming éS line?

world. Will there be a team again, and as

The Accel is the greatest skate shoe of all

many people are asking, will [Ronnie] Creager

time! The oval side pattern design on the

be part of it?

Accent, Accelerate, and Accelite keeps the

We’re not in a rush to put together a team.

Accel storyline alive while evolving the

We’re currently hooking up friends of the éS

product styling. Everyone has been really

family. As the brand grows, we’ll narrow

stoked on the new look. As was to be expected,

things down regarding who will be on the éS

we received a lot of requests for the Original

team and be associated with the brand.

Accel. And ... it will be coming back later this year!

You were working closely with Eric Koston on his pro model shoes for éS. Did his passion

Glorious news, Don! Will we see some

for shoes slowly develop over time or did you

retro éS models?

know right away that footwear was one of his

Right now we’re assessing the feedback…

strengths?

as much as we created a lot of iconic styles

Eric is a great friend and amazing person.

from the past we don’t want to get stuck

Whatever Eric puts his mind to, he can do.

in the past. The three new styles all have

He had a great understanding of design, style

inspiration from éSheritage styles.

SNEAKERS 3/2014

The new éS line is very limited and

wanting to make better shoes than what was

only available at certain core and action

available. All skater-owned brands connected

culture shops. One major shoe corporation

really well with the youth market, which

already did the same thing to push their

was a category that was not understood by

skateboarding division. Do you think that

the multi-billion dollar athletic non-skate

will be the right strategy to be attractive for

footwear brands. Eventually us skaters

skateboarders again?

created such a presence in footwear that

The skate market has been so stretched with

the big guys felt they had to get a piece

over-accessibility, which has taken away a lot

of the pie as they were missing out on an

of the specialness of the products out there.

important “demographic”. So they’ve come in

If you’re the only skater in your town to

with their strategies of how they do things in

have éS shoes, it makes it much more

the sporting goods world where it’s all about

special than having the same shoes as

being Number 1, being on the podium,

everyone else. The retail partners we’ve

wearing a uniform, owning the media,

chosen have been big éS supporters. They

owning the retailer, owning the category and

were asking us every day to bring éS back

attempting to squeeze out all the passionate

and are retailers that are active in giving back

brands and the culture they’ve created.

to the skate community.

There’s so much movement in the skateboard footwear market right now. Where do you see it going, especially in terms of

» As the bigger non-skate corpora-

corporations vs. skater-owned brands?

tions buy their way into skateboar-

When you look back in history, it was brands

ding, it creates a stronger purpose

like etnies, Emerica, and éS that created

for éS to keep the true spirit

the movement of skater-owned shoe brands

of skateboarding alive for current

purely through the love of skateboarding and

and future generations. «

History Check

éS models 2014 – Accent, Accelite, Accelerate

Where does that leave the image of

And finally, what is éS doing to make a

skateboarding?

difference?

Skateboarding today is being presented

At éS, we‘re all skateboarders so we focus

more and more like a mainstream sport

on the amazing energy of skateboarding

with an end goal of having their “athletes” as

happening right now. As the bigger non-skate

number 1,2,3 on the podium at the Olympics.

corporations buy their way into skateboarding,

I’ve been skating through the times when

it creates a stronger purpose for éS to keep

skateboarding was at an all-time low and the

the true spirit of skateboarding alive for

mainstream hated us skateboarders so

current and future generations.

I think it‘s funny how things have ended up where we are today.

Good luck and thanks for taking the time for the interview, Don.

SNEAKERS 3/2014

Collectors Choice

el ZAPAtillAZ tio & AirshortY

A good amount of similarities is a perfect key for a lasting relationship. But when it comes to sneakers, men and women are usually complete opposites. It’s actually quite rare to find a sneaker-crazy couple. Since we know almost everybody in this sneaker cosmos, we successfully located one. In issue 20, we already presented to you Benni and Beate Bargeld from Dortmund, Germany. Now we have Serena aka „Air Shorty“ and French aka „El Zapatillaz Tio“ from Switzerland for our new Collector’s Choice. Let’s hear what they have to say.

Interview: Heiko Lanzke Photos: El Zapatillaz Tio sneAkers 3/2014

Collectors Choice

Hi French and Serena, can you briefly

When and how did you two get into collec-

introduce yourself?

ting? Was there a shoe that triggered it?

French: Hi, my name is French, but I’m a bit

French: I already collected Jordans when I

more known as El Zapatillaz Tio. I was born

was 13, I bought all the new releases. As a

in La Coruña, Spain, but I’ve been living in

baller I wasn’t really able to keep them clean

Dübendorf, Switzerland for over 36 years. It’s

for long, I rocked them on the court. If I’d

a medium big city close to Zürich. Besides

just known how great it would be, to have

being into sneaker, I’m into tuning my car.

them later, they’d never seen the court! From

And I also like to shoot photos.

2000 on, I turned more and more towards

Serena: My name is Serena but my nickna-

my car and let sneakers be sneakers. Until I

me is Airshorty.I’m 25 years old, Italian and

got to know Serena and got together with

also live in Dübendorf. French’s not the

her. I think for me the trigger was the AM1

only one working on his car – because

from the West Pack. They hit my collector

I am too! And I’m also his model in front of

nerve again.

the camera.

Serena: When I was 16 I fell in love with my first pair of Jordans. It was the 5 retro in

Suisse International so to speak. How

white/fire red. Back then I steadily bought

would you describe the scene in Switzerland?

Jordans, whenever my purse allowed it and I

Well, there’s no obvious difference to other

rocked them down unfortunately. In the last

countries like Germany, but in the last few

four years, I was more or less in a position

years a lot of people have gotten into snea-

to afford collecting sneakers. That’s how it

kers. I remember a time when you were able

started. It was pure luck that we shared the

to find your size two days after a big release.

same passion.

Nowadays you won’t find anything unless you camp at least for one night in front

You two being together – is it an advantage

of the store, especially with long awaited

or disadvantage, to share the same passion?

collabs. Well, it’s like everywhere, a popular

Serena: Of course it’s an advantage if you

trend.

can talk about your passion and go to sneaker

SNEAKERS 3/2014

events together. But you know, sometimes I hear myself saying: can we please talk about the weather?

French: It’s beautiful to share the same passion, but I like to exagge-rate sometimes. If it was up to me, I’d shoot sneakers every day.

And I try Serena’s patience a lot, especially when it comes to customs. But she understands me and knows how to turn my mind to other topics.

A sneAker hAs to Be comfortABle, the colors And the shAPe hAve to Be ProPer, even if thAt meAns You hAve to sQueeZe Your foot into it, BecAuse it’s too tiGht. Fr e n c h & S e r e n a

Collectors Choice

That’s good to hear. do you share the same sneaker taste?

All in all, yes. We like everything that has to do with runners.

If shape and materials are like they should be, we’re going to buy. But it doesn’t have to be a hype shoe at all. Lately we’ve been getting into vintage more and more, because these shoes have everything we want to see in a sneaker. Today’s stuff isn’t that good anymore, you can forget 90 % of what comes on the market. The colors and quality are lost. Also when it comes to retros. We’ve waited so long on the Tech Challenge retro and hoped that it would be like the one from 91, but the midsole isn’t right. It’s frustrating.

sneAkers 3/2014

Yes, the old vintage vs. retro topic – let’s

the first color was applied on my shoes. Ever

hope for better times. By the way, what does a

since that day, I’m lookingfor base models

shoe have to be like in order to have a place in

that are good for customizing. I like your

your shelf or on your feet?

Asics question ... I prefer them because they

Our collection has pretty much something

still offer something in terms of shape. I’m

from every category. There are Jordans, Asics,

absolutely not into the new Airmax 1. If I

NB, Nike and adidas like the ZX Flux. From

don’t like the shape, I let it be, because no

the Nike Lady Bravo from 1985 until 2014

matter how good your color game is,the sha-

releases. A sneaker has to be comfortable, the

pe has to be right. I could customize old AM,

colors and the shape have to be proper, even if

but I rather leave them as they are.

that means you have to squeeze your foot into it, because it’s too tight. We have to like

is customizing something you just do as

it and no matter what the rest oft he world

a personal hobby or do you sell them? if you

thinks. The basic formula is this: You see it,

look at the number of likes on Facebook, this

you say „wow“ and it goes on your shelf.

could be quite successful.

Oh yes! When I post images of my customs,

That’s a healthy attitude. French, it seems

my inbox explodes because of so many re-

like you’re getting more and more into cus-

quests. Unfortunately I have no time to do

toms. How did you get into it in the first place

them for other people. It’s not that I don’t

and why only Asics?

want to but I have a job and the best girlfriend

French: Yes, I got into it through two friends

in the world and want to spend time with her.

from my city, Chinoy Customs. I always

It would make sense, but I want to do it fort

dreamed of having a sneaker that’s 100 %

he fun o fit and the challenge of doing so-

mine and won’t be found on any other pair of

mething new. It’s enough form e to see that

feet. That’s where the idea comes from. My

I motivate people to copy my customs or to

friends told me how it could be done and so

realize their own ideas.

Collectors Choice

Good approach! Back to your collection: What are your latest purchases and why did you buy them?

French: Well, my last purchases are a Nike Air Base III and a Nike Windracer Airliner. I had to buy them, just the colors, shape and the rarity of the shoes …

Serena: I bought my last ones in Zürich, an Asics Gel Saga WMNS OG white/blue/violet/ hot berry. The colors are just flashy, had to have them.

SNEAKERS 3/2014

What’s your holy grail?

not good but because I’m just more into the

French: The holy grail that I’m still searching

other brands. I slowly turn towards NB, my

for is the Nike Air Skylon 2. The reason why

taste never stands still.

is simple: I could’ve bought it a couple of

Serena: I don’t like NBs that much, not even

times but the condition wasn’t perfect. I know

on French’s feet. The toebox isn’t my style.

that there are still other Skylons in a nearly

Adidas is similar, which is a shame because

mint condition. The day will come and they’ll

their apparel stuff is sometimes killer.

find me!

Serena: My grails are Jordan OGs 3 and 4,

if you’re buying sneakers, do you discuss

but it’s next to impossible to find them in my

this as a couple? do you have something like

size. And if I do find them, they have a price

a joint budget for sneakers?

tag that I just don’t want to pay besides ha-

French: Not really, most of the time I just

ving to do a soleswap.

buy them when I feel like it. Sometimes there are more sneakers for me, sometimes

Skylon 2 is definitely one of my favorites

for Serena. Because the vintage shoes mostly

too. What are your top 3?

come in small sizes, she gets lucky there. We

French: My top 3 are Nike Air Base III, Nike

don’t have a joint budget, sometimes I pay,

Sarone and Airmax 1 Cork. For me they are

sometimes she pays.

the best in my collection, because everything’s the way I like.

And where do you get your shoes? do you

Serena: I love my Air Icarus Extra BGS Black/

have price limits?

Laser Blue/White – everything’s perfect

French: Well, we buy a lot through friends,

about it. Together with the Jordan 3 Black

via Klekt.in or ebay and online stores like

Cement and the Asics Gel 2, that’s the top 3

Titolo. I swore to never pay more than 400

in my collection.

Euros for a pair, so that’s why my most expensive one is the Purple Patta with

it’s obvious that you’re mostly wearing Nike

exactly that price tag.

and Asics. Why those two brands?

Serena: I’d never pay more than 400 Euros.

French: It’s more or less by accident. I was

My most expensive one was the 91 Nike Air

never into adidas or NB, not because they’re

Huarache for 350 Euros.

Collectors Choice

i AlWAYs dreAmed of hAvinG A sneAker thAt’s 100 % mine And Won’t Be found on AnY other PAir of feet. thAt’s hoW i Got into customiZinG. fr ench

Last words?

French: Big ups to my “Stammtisch Zürich” crew, you’re the best! Because you can!

Serena: Greetings to the ladies from the Women’s Global Sneaker Connection. If there are any girls out there who don’t know who we are, visit us on Instagram.com/_WGSC_.

Guys, you can of course come as well.

Thanks to the both of you!

sneAkers 3/2014

sneAkers 3/2014

Photos: Nady El-Tounsy

Wer hätte es gedacht? Teil 4 unserer Serie über Deutschlands Sneakerstammtische führt uns nach Braunschweig, wo wir feststellen mussten, dass eben dies seine absolute Berechtigung besitzt. Nicht nur, dass besagter Sneakerstammtisch vermutlich einen der am längsten existierenden Stammtische gediegener Turnschuhliebhaber Deutschlands darstellt, nein, wir konnten uns auch davon überzeugen, dass man dort über jahrelange Szenekenntnisse und einen wundervollen Schuhgeschmack verfügt. Und wer sich über die Beschreibung „gediegen“ gerade gewundert hat, der wird erfahren, dass dies absolut zutrifft, denn das Ambiente dieses Stammtisches unterscheidet sich doch stark von dem, was wir euch bisher präsentiert haben. Nicht nur, dass die Mitgliederzahl nicht allzu hoch ist, nein auch der Altersschnitt liegt im höheren Bereich. Vielleicht der Grund für das gewählte Ambiente des Abends? In einem modernen Restaurant mit sehr guter Küche bat man uns zum netten und ausführlichen Talk.

Einen Laden wie diesen hätte ich nicht zum

Sebastian: Wir treffen uns meist gegen 20

Treffen eines Sneakerstammtisches erwartet.

Uhr in der vorher verabredeten Lokalität und

Trefft ihr euch immer in dieser schönen

wenn dann fast alle da sind, warten wir auf

Location?

Mario und bestellen dabei langsam Essen.

Niels: Wenn es nach mir ginge, würden

Ernie: Viel passiert anschließend nicht

wir uns jedes Mal hier in der Vielharmonie

mehr. Wir palavern über dies und das, essen

treffen. Bestes Essen und gute Getränke

dann hoffentlich lecker und fangen an Mario

sind hier garantiert. Aber wir gehen fast je-

auf die Schippe zu nehmen, er war schließ-

des Mal in einen anderen Laden. Wir haben

lich bis vor Kurzem das Nesthäkchen. Nach

mittlerweile schon viel durch, von der run-

zweieinhalb bis drei Stunden gehen wir

tergerocktesten Kegelbahn der Stadt bis zur

vielleicht noch ein schnelles Bierchen an

Eckkneipe war alles dabei.

einem nahe gelegenen Kiosk zischen, bevor

Jens: Dass wir die Location immer wechseln, ist auch eher aus der Not heraus gebo-

der obligatorische Circle-Shot uns auseinandergehen lässt.

ren. Wir hatten eigentlich mal einen festen Laden, mit dem wir aber im Laufe der Zeit

Und tatsächlich läuft auch dieser Abend ziem-

nicht mehr zufrieden waren. Und da wir uns

lich genau so ab, wenn man mal von den Unter-

auf keine neue Location einigen konnten, ha-

brechungen für die diversen Portraitfotos,

ben wir einfach angefangen, alle möglichen

Sneakershots usw. absieht. Doch als langweilig

Läden auszuprobieren. Hat natürlich auch

ist diese Truppe und dieser Abend ganz sicher

den Vorteil, dass man so einiges an Gastro-

nicht anzusehen. Eine Story scheint es dabei im-

nomien kennenlernt, in denen man vorher

mer wieder auf den Tisch zu schaffen. Damals

noch nicht war. Aber die Vielharmonie

bat ein guter Bekannter aus Berlin ein paar

steht auch bei mir ganz weit oben!

seiner Facebookfreunde darum, einen einigermaßen unansehnlichen schwarzen Atmos Asics

Wie ist der Ablauf eines solchen Stammtischabends?

SNEAKERS 3/2014

Gel Lyte III mit gesprenkelter Sohle abzufeiern, damit er bei Facebooks „Trainer Sale Gruppe“

noch einen guten Betrag dafür bekommen würde. Auch einige Anwesende beteiligten sich an der Lobhuldigung des Schuhs. Ein anderer Anwesender fiel darauf herein. Dass derjenige den Schuh mittlerweile sogar noch mit Gewinn weiterverkauft hat, interessiert dabei natürlich niemanden.

Erzählt doch mal von euren Anfängen. Wie ist das ganze damals zustande gekommen?

Jens: Wenn ich mich recht erinnere, hatte

unterschiedliche Leute, die sich eine Leiden-

ich das damals angeregt und es war direkt als

schaft teilen an einen Tisch zu bringen, um

Stammtisch geplant. Ich kannte zu der Zeit

sich so austauschen zu können.

schon den Berliner Sneakerstammtisch, der damals immer regelmäßig im Kingston stattfand und bei dem ich auch einmal teilgenommen hatte. Ich fand die Idee gut,

SNEAKERS 3/2014

»newbies haben natürlich immer die chance, sich anzuschließen, denn wir sind ja schließlich kein Gentlemen´s club oder irgendeine andere elitäre Vereinigung.« [ JenS]

Wann habt ihr euch zum ersten mal als

niels: Ernie, war das nicht so, dass du auf

Gruppe zusammengesetzt und wer von den

gut Glück bei No Limits gefragt hast, ob je-

Leuten hier war damals schon dabei?

mand am nächsten Tag zum Solemart nach

dennis: Also von der ursprünglichen Besetzung ist heute nur Jens anwesend. Niels und ich sind dann zeitgleich dazu gestoßen,

Berlin in die Hafenbar fährt? Ich meine mich da dunkel erinnern zu können. ernie: Das war ganz witzig. Ich kannte ei-

das müsste im Sommer 2008 gewesen sein.

gentlich nur Jens, damals unter dem Namen

Damals gehörten auch noch Stefan S, Philip

„Gallo“, von Bildern von SneakerTV. Ich hab

und Sascha zur Gruppe. Philipp und

da bei den On Feet Bildern unser schönes

Sascha sind ja immer noch dabei und Stefan

Braunschweig erkannt. Irgendwie hab ich

S. wohnt mittlerweile in Berlin. Schöne

dadurch herausbekommen, wo Jens arbeitet.

Grüße an dieser Stelle!

Da bin ich einfach hereinspaziert und hab

ernie: Ich bin 2010 dazu gestoßen. Da lief

mich als Onlinestalker geoutet. Wir kamen

das noch über StudiVZ, falls das in diesen

sofort ins Gespräch; das war alles sehr nett

Facebookzeiten noch jemand kennt.

und so war ich schnell eingeladen.

Nun ja, man scheint die genaue Entstehungs-

Wie oft trefft ihr euch? Habt ihr regel-

geschichte des Stammtisches nicht mehr ganz

mäßigkeiten bei der Planung oder wird sich

zusammenzukriegen. Fest steht, der Kern

spontan getroffen?

trifft sich seit 2010, einige sogar schon länger.

dennis: Also der eigentliche Stammtisch

Wenn man sich die heu-tige Schnelllebigkeit und

findet einmal im Monat statt. Da haben wir

im Speziellen die der (Turnschuh)-Mode

auch einen festen Termin unter der Woche,

anschaut, ist es beruhigend, dass es auch im

da an den Wochenenden doch alle irgendwie

sogenannten Sneaker-game so etwas wie

eingebunden sind, sei es privat oder beruf-

Beständigkeit gibt. Glücklicherweise ist dies

lich.

nicht die einzige Konstante unserer Szene, was

mario: Meistens am 1. oder 2. Dienstag im

wir mit der Serie über Deutschlands Sneaker-

Monat. Wir sind da aber auch flexibel, wenn

stammtische schon zeigen konnten und

mehrere Leute keine Zeit haben – es sollen ja

hoffentlich auch weiterhin zeigen können.

möglichst alle dabei sein.

sneAkers 3/2014

ist das Ganze eine öffentliche Angelegenheit? Kann man als interessierter irgendwo erfahren, wann und wo ihr euch trefft? dennis: Wir sind kein öffentlicher Stammtisch. Irgendwie sind alle untereinander direkt oder über ein paar Ecken befreundet.

Ein paar kennen sich, wie ja bereits erwähnt, schon lange über den Stammtisch hinaus und so ist das alles durch persönliche Kontakte entstanden.

»Gibt es denn bei den braunschweigern endlich mal ein aufnahmeritual? also ich musste barfuß bei foot locker und Snipes jeweils ein Paar 90er air max und adidas Superstars klauen.« [ S t e f a n t. ]

sneAkers 3/2014

da seid ihr ja schon lange in ähnlicher Konstellation unterwegs. Wollt ihr auch eher in dieser Zusammensetzung bleiben, oder haben auch Newbies eine Chance sich euch anzuschließen?

Jens: Newbies haben natürlich immer die Chance, sich anzuschließen, denn wir sind ja schließlich kein Gentlemen´s Club oder irgendeine andere elitäre Vereinigung.

Aber dadurch, dass es sich hierbei um keinen öffentlichen Stammtisch handelt, werden neue Leute eigentlich immer nur von irgendeinem der festen Mitglieder mitgebracht und sind somit eh keine total fremden Personen.

Wo wir bei dem Thema sind, Pia und Stefan, wie ist es für ein neues mitglied, zu diesem Stammtisch dazuzustoßen? stefan t: Ich habe mich bis vor ein paar Monaten nicht wirklich dafür interessiert, da ich Sorge hatte, dass es bei solchen Stamm-tischen Stamm-

und witzige Truppe, der ich mich gern angeschlossen habe.

Pia: Erstmal freue ich mich natürlich als erstes

nur um das Thema Schuhe geht. Ich finde es

Mädel dieser Runde anzugehören. Bei meinem

ganz schlimm, wenn man sich auf die Materie

ersten Stammtisch fand ich es sehr

so beschränkt, dass man sich über nichts an-

angenehm, wie ich aufgenommen wurde. Ich hat-

deres als über Schuhe unterhalten kann. Ich

te zu keiner Zeit das Gefühl mich erstmal bewei-

wurde von Niels eingeladen und konnte gleich

sen zu müssen, damit ich akzeptiert werde. Jens

einige bekannte Gesichter antreffen. Ich habe

kenne ich auch schon seit ein paar Jahren und im

mich somit gleich gut aufgehoben gefühlt.

vergangenen April hatte er mich eingeladen zum

Und es wird in Braunschweig nicht nur über

nächsten Stammtisch zu kommen. Mir wurde

Schuhe gesprochen. Jackpot! Eine vielseitige

der Einstieg nicht schwer gemacht.

Welchen Anteil hat denn das Thema Turnschuhe bei euren Stammtischtreffen? sebastian: Das ist angenehmerweise sehr unterschiedlich. unter Stefan T. hat es vorhin ja schon angedeutet. Es gibt durchaus Treffen bei denen, z.B. aus aktuellem Anlass, hauptsächlich über Turnschuhe gesprochen wird, Und wurdet ihr bzw. euer Schuhwerk genau begutachtet?

Pia: Na, ich hoffe doch! Also ich glaube,

sei es ein Release oder die „Nachbereitung“ einer gemeinsamen Exkursion wie dem Solemart. Aber es gab eben auch schon sehr

dass bei fast allen von uns der erste Blick auf

lustige Abende, an denen das Schuhwerk

die Schuhe fällt. Zwar kann ich noch nicht

überhaupt kein Thema war. Das hat mich

ganz mit den Schuhsammlungen der Jungs

gerade am Anfang sehr positiv überrascht.

mithalten aber das wird sich hoffentlich mit der Zeit noch ändern. stefan t: Yes! Man checkt schon erstmal ab,

Bei den bisherigen Stammtischen hat man immer wieder gehört, dass es oft dieselben

auf was die anderen so stehen (blickt unter

Themen sind, die besprochen werden wollen.

den Stammtisch). Natürlich repräsentiert ja

Gibt es auch bei euch Sachen, die immer wie-

auch jede/r mit seinem Schuhwerk, was man

der auf den Tisch kommen? Und wenn ja, wel-

so feiert.

che Themen sind das hier in Braunschweig? sebastian: Ich würde unseren Haufen ins-

Gibt es denn bei den Braunschweigern endlich mal ein Aufnahmeritual? stefan t: Also ich musste barfuß bei Foot Locker und Snipes jeweils ein Paar 90er Air Max und Adidas Superstars klauen.

sneAkers 3/2014

gesamt als „sehr unaufgeregt“ beschreiben, so dass die Meinungen zu den großen

Themen sowieso bekannt sind und sie sich

ich sehe viele runningschuhe und ein wenig

daher auch nicht immer wieder auf der

Vintage in dieser runde. ist das der allgemeine

Tagesordnung wiederfinden. Genauso ist es

Geschmack in eurer Truppe?

bei unterschiedlichen Einschätzungen oder

niels: Das schwankt sehr stark, je nach-

Geschmäckern, die sich bei uns mitunter

dem, was gerade so angesagt ist. In letzter

schon stark unterscheiden. Wir wissen

Zeit also hauptsächlich Gel Lytes und Air Max

schon, wer was favorisiert und respektieren

87. Vintage Runner natürlich auch.

es, was nicht heißt, dass man es nicht auch mal als Steilvorlage für eine kleine „liebevolle Stichelei“ nutzt.

Jens: Wobei es bei den Treffen schon immer mal wieder um den Status Quo der sogenannten „Szene“ geht. Da gibt es für uns, diesich alle schon etwas länger mit dem Thema Sneaker befassen, genug Stoff, um sich auf- und wieder abzuregen.

Und dann kommt das, was man immer wieder hört, wenn man sich mit alteingesessenen Sneakerheads aus ganz Deutschland unterhält.

Man ist von den Veränderungen innerhalb der Szene genervt, der Einfallslosigkeit der Firmen und der mangelnden Qualität.

Sehr witzig, Niels.

Jens: Grundsätzlich bin ich offen für so ziemlich alles – Hauptsache, es gefällt! Aber

Trefft ihr euch ausschließlich an euren Stammtischabenden? stefan t: Dadurch, dass ich aus Wolfsburg

mein Fokus liegt eigentlich auf Mitt-80er

komme, im Schichtdienst und an Wochen-

bis Mitt-90er Running, aber auch ein wenig

enden arbeite, war ich bislang nur zum

80er Basketball. Wobei ich seit der Roshe

Stammtisch anwesend.

Run und Flyknit Geschichte auch offen für

ernie: Treffen im privaten Rahmen gibt es

aktuelle Styles bin. Vintage immer sehr ger-

auch. Einige haben sich durch den Stamm-

ne, aber auch nur, wenn es noch tragbar ist.

tisch angefreundet und man geht auch

stefan t: Runningschuhe bzw. Vintage

mal gemeinsam weg oder schaut Fußball

Flitzer sind für mich schon die Teile, auf die

zusammen, gern auch im Stadion unserer

ich abfahre. Klassiker wie ZXer und diverse

Eintracht. Außerdem waren wir schon einige

Raritäten halt. Eher selten bis nie bin ich für

Male zusammen auf dem Solemart und ha-

neue Schnitte oder Modelle zu begeistern.

ben dort selber Verkaufstische gehabt. Eines

sebastian: Bei mir sind es auch unter-

un-serer un-serer Highlights, bei dem leider nicht alle

schiedliche Runner, sowohl die Klassiker

dabei sein konnten, war ein Wochenendtrip

von New Balance, Asics, als auch eben die

zur Sneakerness nach Amsterdam vor zwei

neuen Modelle, wie Flyknits etc. In der

Jahren. Ab und an gehen wir auch mal auf

Gruppe sind bestimmt Runningschuhe der

ein leckeres Stück Torte und den dazu-

größte gemeinsame Nenner, aber da eben

gehörigen Kaffee in ein nettes Rentner-Café,

auch alle vorhandenen Facetten, sodass ich

wo wir die anwesenden Omis mit unserer

den „allgemeinen Geschmack“ schon als sehr

Anwesenheit erfreuen.

vielseitig beschreiben würde.

sneAkers 3/2014

Dennis: Die Weihnachtsfeier nicht zu vergessen!

Ernie: Oh ja, danke Dennis, dass du mich

Und nach alledem, was auf den letzten Seiten berichtet wurde, muss man sagen, dass das „gediegen“ aus der Einleitung absolut

daran erinnerst. Das war ein sehr lustiger

zutreffend ist. Hier sitzt ein kleiner, dafür aber

Abend.

umso feinerer Kreis an Leuten zusammen, die

Sebastian: Also ich sitze mit Jens tagsüber

unaufgeregt und offen die für uns alle schönste

im Büround gucke morgens immer bereits

(Neben-)Sache der Welt ganz uneitel angehen.

unter den Schreibtisch, was da so gesportet

Es stellt sich deutlich heraus, dass man sich hier

wird. Ansonsten versuchen wir mit all un-

untereinander mag und Neulingen das Gefühl

seren privaten Verpflichtungen, jede Mög-

vermittelt, dass sie willkommen sind. Turnschuhe

lichkeit zu nutzen, um uns zu treffen. So wie

spielen natürlich eine Rolle, aber neben vielen

neulich als Jens aufgelegt hat und einige von

anderen Themen selten die Hauptrolle. Und

uns sich an der Bar trafen.

wenn man hört, wie die Truppe davon erzählt, wie ihre Ausflüge so ablaufen, dann würde

Es war mir eine Freude, vielen Dank an euch.

man gerne einmal mitfahren. Denn neben diesem Sneaker Ding kommt dabei weder das Kulturelle der jeweiligen Reiseziele noch der Spaß zu kurz. Vielleicht liegt das daran, dass ein Großteil der Anwesenden die 30 schon um Einiges überschritten hat.

niels sebastian Jens

dennis mario

stefan

ernie Pia sneAkers 3/2014

WWW. K LE KT. I N T H E SN E AKE R M A R KE T P LAC E S ELL, BUY & TR A DE. NO FEES!

ilov e d u s t – A sNe AKer- MIN d ed de sIgN s Tud Io f r oM The uK The ilovedust design agency is located on the south coast of England and has been delivering award-winning results for eleven crazy years. it’s not focused on sneakers, but the number of related projects is impressive. There were the 25 Years Air Force 1 illustrations, the amazing artwork for the Air max Sneakerball timeline and much more. reason enough to speak with Bruce Jamieson, Senior designer at ilovedust.

sneAkers 3/2014

Interview: Holger von Krosigk

Interview

Can you please introduce yourself and your

denominator has changed and evolved over

agency? What’s your story and how many

the years. But in essence, skateboarding is

people are involved at this point?

probably what best captures the majority of

We are ilovedust, a multi-disciplinary studio

our influences in our younger years.

founded back in 2003 by two friends, Mark Graham and Ben Beach. Based on the South

What have you learned from skateboarding?

Coast of England, surrounded by the rolling

For me personally, skateboarding has always

English countryside and whipped by sea air,

helped me look at everything differently,

we create fresh, innovative design, which

with an alternative perspective. We’ve always

makes up our award-winning portfolio.

carried this approach into projects and really

Collaborating with a diverse range of

tried to push the boundaries of what we are

brands, from these shores and afar, we’ve

working on.

been delivering world-class illustrations and graphic design for eleven crazy years now.

We saw on your website that your office

We love what we do, and we think our clients

now boasts a mini ramp! Is that true?

do, too. We are an international team of 20

Yes it’s true, it was always a dream of ours

illustrators, designers, art directors and

that one day we’d have a large enough space

project managers. We all bring something to

to put a ramp in the studio. We had the

the melting pot for every job, which helps

mini ramp built two years back when we

define the great range of work we produce.

moved into our new studio. We have five skaters in the studio, so the ramp is a great

Most people’s taste preferences are formed at an early age. What were your early

way to let off some steam when the deadlines are over.

influences and how would you describe your (sub-) cultural background?

A substantial part of the work on your

When we founded the studio, we were a very

website is sneaker-related and, more

small team, and I guess the one common

specifically, Nike-related. How did that

thread connecting our collective influences

relationship came into being?

was probably skateboard culture. The art, the

When I think back, it was probably one of

music, the fashion. Obviously, that common

those opportunities where we had a chance

Interview

to get our foot in the door and we took it.

That‘s a good question. I don’t think we

We were tasked with illustrating the Air

could pick just one out. The 25 Years of Air

Jordan X Levis 23/501 collab back in 2007.

Force 1 illustration was great fun to work on

The pack received a lot of coverage at the

because there were so many key moments in

time and helped introduce our work to other

the AF1’s history for us to choose from and

departments within Nike. And I guess that

build the illustration around. On the same

since then, we’ve worked hard to build new

note, the Air Max Sneaker Ball identity and

relationships and never rested on our laurels.

timeline we produced for the event at the

We always treat every new opportunity as if

[Centre] Pompidou [in Paris] was a lengthy

it’s our last chance to show off our talents.

process to put together, but the end result was a great tribute to the icon. Producing

You have built a strong list of clients and

the camo patterns and illustrations for the

work on projects of different sizes. Were there

Air Max Camo Pack was also fantastic to be

any important breakthrough projects that

involved in. That one stands out especially

paved the way for you as an agency? What

as the kind of illustration we really enjoy, as it

were the most important steps for you?

hadn’t really been done before in that way.

Alongside the Jordan X Levis collab, other key projects – in terms of moving us onto a

What is your favorite sneaker design of all

new level of work – were probably Beyoncé’s

time and why?

logo for her B’Day album and the Coke Zero

One of our founding partners, Ben, is keen to

illustrated bottle campaign we did. Looking

answer this one. In his opinion the best shoe

back, these projects happened at key times

ever was the Nike Air Jordan VI Black/

to help lift us up to the next rung of the

Infrared. The shoe just had the best overall

ladder and move things forward as a studio.

shape and lines of any previous basketball shoe he’d seen. It just looked so cool, the

What was your favorite sneaker project so far and why?

SNEAKERS 3/2014

details such as the two hole pull tab and heel tab just seemed to work and fit perfectly with

the whole design. Ben is adamant he’s not seen or bought a shoe, prior to its release or since, that has just had that perfect balance.

He recalls wearing them back in the 90s and swears the feeling of pride about having them on upped his game. He still has that same feeling wearing them on the court now, all these years later!

» It always inspired me. I always thought, “when I grow up, I want to wear sneakers to my job! «

Interview

SNEAKERS 3/2014

Interview

You’re located on the South Coast of

want to wear sneakers to my job!’

England. Do you all come from that area and how does the location influence you? Some

We live in a time almost dominated by

people have the impression that a fresh

sneakers, the trend is ubiquitous. Do you

agency would have to be in London ...

think that we will soon see the death of the

Most of our team members live in Southsea

mainstream sneaker hype? Can the Air Max

and commute by bike or live within walking

love of the masses destroy this shoe?

distance. A few of the guys live in Brighton,

Everything we do seems to come in cycles.

Havant and a couple in Chichester. However,

Many will argue that nothing is truly

our team is a truly international workforce,

original anymore. Perhaps right now the

consisting of illustrators coming from Trier,

sneaker hype is peaking, perhaps it already

Madrid, and as far away as Hong Kong. We’ve

has. Regardless of the trends, design icons

always found that a real mix of cultures in

will always be classics and will have an

the studio is a source of inspiration and

appeal for what they represent. I doubt

creates a great dynamic within the team.

that folks will remember the early Air Max runners less fondly in years to come

What is your personal relationship or

because they were continually reissued and

history with sneakers?

rethought. Good design is good design and

What do they represent to you?

will always stand the test of time for those

Sneakers for me have always represented

that hold it dear.

the renegade workforce. Those who choose not to conform to the office nine-to-five. In

From a designer’s point of view: What was

my youth, they always seemed to have that

the best sneaker release /collaboration in terms

rebel influence to them. The cool kids in the

of the „whole package“ in product design,

movies always had the sneakers on, you

packaging etc.?

know what I mean? For me personally,

I loved the Paper Dunk Highs that Nike

that’s what always inspired me. I always

SB produced with Geoff McFetridge for the

used to think to myself, ‘When I grow up, I

MOCA back in 2011. I think they only made

SNEAKERS 3/2014

Interview

24 pairs and each pair was crafted from an original painting by McFetridge. I’ve always followed him as an artist. So when I saw the whole package for this release, I was intrigued. I loved the idea of a paper shoe. It blurred the lines between sneakers and art.

What can we expect from ilovedust in the near future?

Right now we are continuing to rollout of all the World Cup assets for Nike’s “Risk Everything” campaign for the FIFA World Cup in Brazil. It has truly been a dream come true for us to work on the project and play a part in shaping the global campaign. So keep your eyes peeled – our illustrations are going to be everywhere!

What do you dream of doing one day?

Visiting Japan! It’s always been a massive source of inspiration but I’ve never got around to planning a trip.

What is your advice to the young designers out there, hungry to make it in the big bad agency world?

Work harder than some, sleep less than most.

SNEAKERS 3/2014

Fotos: Parwez

Text: Tony Toupet

Old Love New Love

SNEAKERS 3/2014

A d i d a s E Q T R u n n i n g S up p o r t – W i t h P ho s 4

F

ür unser beliebtes Old Love / New Love

Meine ausgeprägte Leidenschaft für Sneaker

gibt sich diesmal das Berliner Graff-

ist sicher durch meinen Background in der

Urgestein PHOS4 die Ehre. Der Junge hat 27

Graffitiszene entstanden, wo besondere

Jahre Subkultur auf dem Buckel, in denen er

Schuhe immer schon eine große Rolle ge-

nicht nur für unzählige Burner an Wänden und

spielt haben. Paradoxerweise gibt es aber in

Zügen, sondern auch an den Füßen gesorgt hat.

der Graffitiszene, in der es ja um die persön-

Vielen von euch wird der legendäre Berliner

liche Entfaltung geht, fast so was wie einen

Sneaker- und Graffitiladen „Downstairs“ noch

Dresscode. So trug man früher Ewings und

bekannt sein, aber sicher nur den wenigsten

Escapes und heute eben hauptsächlich Max'

die Tatsache, dass unser heutiger Protagonist

und Co., während Torsions oder Supports

für den einprägsamen Namen verantwortlich

eher anderen Subkulturen zuzuordnen wa-

war. Downstairs ist zwar mittlerweile

ren. Irgendwie haben mich selbst aber immer

Geschichte, aber da PHOS4 ein Mann der

schon mehr die technischeren Modelle und

alten Schule ist, hat er zusammen mit zwei

die futuristischen Designs angesprochen als

Homies unlängst die alten Räumlichkeiten

die cleanen, minimalistischen Styles der Old

übernommen und damit auch das Erbe

School. Vielleicht liegt das aber auch daran,

dieser Institution. „The Legacy“ versteht

dass ich generell kein Freund von Schub-

sich dabei weder als klassischer Sneaker-

ladendenken bin. Ein Puma mit Disc System

oder Writerstore, vielmehr fast als (Sub-)

turnt mich irgendwie mehr an als ein

Kulturzentrum und Brutstätte für zukünftige

klassischer BBoy Suede, und selbst ein adidas

gemeinsame Projekte. Genau hier sprachen

Superstar kommt für mich nicht an meine

wir mit PHOS4 über alte und neue Liebe.

Equipment Supports heran.

Old Love New Love

Wie ich zu den Dingern gekommen bin? Ob

sich offensichtlich über mein spezielles

du es glaubst oder nicht, wie die Jungfrau

Interesse. Wie sich herausstellte hatte er

zum Kind.

sie selber einige Jahre zuvor als Teil seiner Grund-ausrüstung bei der Bundeswehr

Vor ein paar Jahren stand ich im Laden eines

bekommen und überhaupt keinen Bezug zu

Freundes, als plötzlich ein Typ reinkam. Auf

den Tretern. Es waren einfach seine Beater,

den ersten Blick ein stinknormaler Junge

die er nur hin und wieder zum Renovieren

in Arbeitsklamotten, der vermutlich

oder Schlimmerem herauskramte. Irgendwie

ein paar Dosen kaufen wollte, nichts

schien ich meine Aufregung über diese

Außergewöhnliches. Allerdings hatte ich

Entdeckung aber nicht richtig verbergen

schon immer die mitunter fast nervige

zu können. Als dann noch ein weiterer

Angewohnheit, instinktiv das Schuhwerk

Kunde ins Gespräch über die Equipments

meines Gegenübers abzuchecken. Eine

mit einstieg, ging dem Besitzer langsam ein

Sekunde später sollten mir dann regelrecht

Licht auf, dass es sich vielleicht doch um

die Augen rausfallen, als ich an seinen

einen besonderen Schuh handeln könnte.

Füßen ein frisches Paar adidas Equipment

Also musste ich meine Taktik ändern und

Supports in super Zustand entdeckte. Ein

erstmal einen Gang runterschalten. Ich

Modell, das ich schon immer cool fand,

ließ ihn in Ruhe seine Einkäufe machen

aber trotzdem nie in die Finger bekommen

und fing ihn dann noch mal ab. Mit

hatte. Ich schätzte die Größe als für mich

sämtlichen Tricks der Psychologie und

passend ein und witterte daraufhin meine

sanftem Verhandlungsdruck konnte ich

Chance. Nun war ich damals schon nicht

ihn letztlich tatsächlich davon überzeugen,

auf den Mund gefallen, fasste mir ein Herz

seine Supports gegen ein Paar San Miguel

und quatschte den Typen einfach auf seine

Werbegeschenk-Badelatschen zu tauschen,

Schuhe an. Der wusste zuerst gar nicht, was

mit denen er dann die Heimreise antrat.

ich eigentlich von ihm wollte und wunderte

Stolz wie Bolle habe ich die Treter fortan

SNEAKERS 3/2014

zu jeder Gelegenheit getragen und damit sozusagen meine eigene kleine StyleRevolution angeführt. Die Zeit ist, trotz intensiver Pflege, nicht spurlos an meinen Babies vorübergegangen, und so war ich letztes Jahr doch nicht so traurig über das erste Retro der Supports. Die können meinen OGs mit Bundeswehr- und Berliner Untergrundvergangenheit zwar nicht das Wasser reichen, aber zumindest, so wie ich, ein würdiges Erbe antreten!

sneAkers mAG suBscriPtion 4 x receive 4 print mags per year, delivered to your door in January, April, July and october!

Germany – 19,90 eur, anywhere else – 50,00 eur * www.sneakers-magazine.com/subscribe

Crews have been escaping in the GL6000 since way back in 1985, we should know, we have the photos and there’s no escaping those hairstyles. With its hits of color and reflective details the GL6000 will make you the standout in your pack.

Worn here by Kid Ink and friends.