SPECTR Issue 27 by Monday Publishing GmbH

Nr. 27 – I II / 2019 EUR 15,–

Essentials

H O F F M A N N N AT U R A L E Y E W E A R ← »22 7 8 «

↑ »676«

H O F F M A N N N AT U R A L E Y E W E A R »320« & »2275«

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Welcome To Spectr Issue #27

H O F F M A N N N AT U R A L E Y E W E A R »2278«

“Natural Treasures Are The Real Luxury” (page 166–172)

EDITORIAL

Essentials Essentials Welcome To Issue #27 At the end of the day, it all boils down to essentials. That’s all that matters. Right now, this focus on essentials is still a quiet, unassuming countermovement. An opposite trend to the huge mainstream demand for “constantly cheaper, constantly more” consumer goods. An alternative to our society’s conspicuous consumption and the hedonistic display of consumer goods on social media. But although quiet, the movement towards essentials is tangible. It manifests in a return to attitudes like minimalism, mindfulness and reductionism, as well as self-help books such as Simplify Your Life and The Life-Changing Magic of Tidying Up. The nice rewards of this focus on essentials are the resulting simplicity and manageability. In an era of unlimited options and constant availability, it is chicken soup for our stressed souls. But enough with philosophy, let’s bridge the gap to the essential focus of this magazine: eyewear! Because as it turns out, the essentialist mindset has also taken a hold in the eyewear universe. Why? Because the variety of brands and products is constantly skyrocketing, leaving consumers who are in search of new glasses overwhelmed and in need of orientation. This is where vertical players make their move to insert themselves into the conversation with manageable product assortments and transparent pricing. And their formula is working. But with SPECTR, we want to offer an alternative. To provide orientation, we focus on showing just the highlights from just the most important brands. The focus on essentials also fits in with our cover shoot, for which we traveled to the natural wilderness of Germany’s Brandenburg region to find the perfect backdrop for showcasing frames by hoffmann natural eyewear. Back to nature, back to essentials. And as you can see in this issue’s other photo shoots, it’s always about putting the objects of our desire front and center. Eyewear first! The reductionist approach is also alive and well in the many collaborations that

are trending in our industry. Brands such as ic! berlin, salt. and barton per-

reira are crafting exclusive capsule collections with artists or like-minded brands

from other genres. These collections tend to consist of only a few models at limited quantities, yet they are coated in engaging storytelling. This gives us as a magazine plenty to show our readers and empowers retailers with tons of creative storytelling. With that said, it’s time to focus: Switch off your phone, avoid all distractions and dive into the beautiful selection of essential eyewear compiled in this issue. It’s all that matters. SD 44

CONTENT

CAZAL

224

ETNIA BARCELONA »Mi tt e S u n «

“Rebel Spirit” by Harling&Darsell (page 202-208)

Impressum Editor In Chief

STEFAN DONGUS [Cologne] dongus@spectr-magazine.com m: +49.(0)151.14271817

Layout

CARO ROSS [Cologne] ross@spectr-magazine.com

Editorial Staff

SANDRA GAWLOWSKI [Cologne] press@spectr-magazine.com DIRK VOGEL [Chicago] vogel@spectr-magazine.com

Proofreading

INSA MUTH [Dortmund] PETER ASHFORD [London] FRANCA RAINER [Berlin]

Translation

DIRK VOGEL [Chicago]

Online Editor

FRANCA RAINER [Berlin] online@spectr-magazine.com

Photographers/Producers

JULIEN BARBÉS [Berlin] EDA CALISTI [Munich] STEFAN DONGUS [Cologne] WILLIAM FERCHICHI [London] HARLING & DARSELL [Berlin] SACHA TASSILO HÖCHSTETTER [Rome & Monaco] ANDREA KADLER [Hamburg] STEFAN KAPFER [Dusseldorf] ESTELLE KLAWITTER [Dusseldorf] FLORIAN RENNER [London] HANIBALL SALIBA [Berlin] RAPHAEL SCHMITZ [Dusseldorf] OLIVER SPIES [Munich] JAKOB WIECHMANN [Berlin] MATTHIAS WOLF [Hamburg]

Publisher

MONDAY PUBLISHING GMBH t: +49.(0)221.945267-11 f: +49.(0)221.945267-27 www.spectr-magazine.com www.facebook.com/spectrmagazine OFFICE ADDRESS Kamekestraße 20-22 50672 Köln, Germany STUDIO ADDRESS Lichtstraße 28 50825 Köln, Germany www.mondaymedia.cc

CEOs

STEFAN DONGUS, HOLGER VON KROSIGK

F&W MEDIENCENTER GMBH Holzhauser Feld 2 83361 Kienberg fw-medien.de SPECTR is published three times per year. This magazine and all its contents may not be re-used, distributed or stored in electronic databases in any way without prior written permission from the publishers. All inquiries regarding the usage of copyrighted materials, as well as the reproduction of excerpts in other formats must be directed to the publishers. The opinions reflected in this magazine do not necessarily reflect those of the publishers. All rights reserved.

cover phot os JAKOB WIECHMANN assist ant JORIS FELIX PATZSCHKE produ ct ion FABRIKA st yling, creat ive direct io n & set design HANIBALL SALIBA hair & m ake- u p RABEA at NINA KLEIN AGENCY m odels FREYA at PROMOD, LINUS at PROMOD, JASSICA at MEGA MODELS

L A B E L U P D AT E

Suzy Glam 2019 suzy glam requires no introduction to readers of this magazine.

Founded in 2012 in Utrecht, the Netherlands, the small independent label has already left a significant footprint in the eyewear business, including its own flagship store in Amsterdam. The secret to success: suzy glam has always had a consistent design philosophy and developed a signature style without following every trend. To achieve the strong three-dimensional character of the frames, every new model is first sculptured in acetate before creating the technical drawing. Speaking of new models, in our label update we learn from co-founder Susanne Klemm and Etienne Frederiks what’s in store for 2019.

p h otos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ c a mpa i gn i ma g e HANNEKE VAN DE POL

suzy glam co-founders Susanne Klemm and Etienne Frederiks are personally

involved in every aspect of their two-person company. They even learned Italian to improve the relationship with the small, family-owned Italian factories supplying their acetate, which has already led to a significant quality boost for their frames. For the dynamic duo, operating as a small independent label does not mean bothersome work. Just the opposite – it’s their secret to success. “Being small means, you can be lean and agile. It also gives us the freedom to do what we like; just making great frames with an intrinsic design value,” says Susanne Klemm, adding: “We don’t want to come up with all kinds of marketing activities to give the frames extra value. We think it’s better when you make frames that speak for themselves, so you don’t need all this.” 52

L A B E L U P D AT E

SUZY GLAM

» Su zy G l a m Tw ink le s«

“Charming glasses for smaller eyesizes, a group that suzy glam has successfully served from the beginning.”

» Su zy G l a m Tra v els L i gh t e r« “The success of its predecessor is redesigned to get a thinner, more contemporary look. With ‘suzy glam Twinkles’ there is another

frame for customers with smaller eye-sizes.”

» Su zy G l a m D e c i d e s« “A classic panto shape, but not just a copy of the ’30s original! The edgy bevels give this frame a dastardly look. The colors Oil, bio acetate Timber and suzy glam’s own Jade make male wearers look both flamboyant and cool.”

» Su zy G l a m Work s O ut« “A very subtle ‘tube-shaped’ design that has a modest but very wellbalanced appearance. The rounded finishing, typical for suzy glam, gives this frame a certain fluidity and has been improved in order to achieve a more solid construction.”

L A B E L U P D AT E

Promotional efforts are limited to a campaign for optical retail with a revolving door of top-notch artists. This year’s campaign was created by Hanneke van de Pol, a Dutch artist known for combining modern graphic techniques with classic design elements. The abstract drawings show the essence of suzy glam: frames that resemble wellbalanced sculptures, charged with the attitude of flashy accessories that enhance the wearer’s face like well-appointed make-up. If ever an eyewear brand embodied the adage ‘small but mighty’, it’s got to be suzy glam.

SUZY GLAM

»Su z y G l am C a tch e s Up« “Another frame in the ‘tube-shaped’ series. A big, outgoing oval shape with a very vivid character. The standard model is emphasized by the bright colors Lemon and Lavender. A light-hearted frame in every way. In the limited edition model ‘Stripe’, Susanne Klemm’s jewelry background is truly visible. This edition of only 40 pieces comes with a cross-body denim purse. Every purse is handmade by Susanne herself in the evening hours. The striped acetate of the frame is also used for the purse but can also be worn separately as a necklace. The fabric of the purse is made of 100% recycled denim.”

What came first, the works by artist Hanneke van de Pol or the images for the new collection? Well, take a wild guess… 54

Deadbolt

TRANSLUCENT INTENSE

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NEW TECH

GLCO

» Ma gic i a n«

NEW TECH

GLCO Introduces Light-activated Acetate Frames p h ot o RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

Headquartered in sun-kissed Venice Beach, garrett leight california optical has built a reputation for

quintessential California style with a timeless aesthetic. But it’s not just about classics for the young designer from one of eyewear’s most prominent dynasties: Garrett Leight also likes to play with forward-looking technologies and reveals a stunning eyecatcher in GLCO’s Fall/ Holiday 2019 collection with the introduction of colorchanging acetate sunglasses frames. You’ve read that correctly, the frame material of GLCO’s women’s style »Magician« instantly begins changing colors under UV-light. How is this possible? Technically speaking, the cellulose acetate frame is extruded with a clear outer layer that transforms in contact with sunlight. Indoors, the transformation goes dormant in a matter of seconds. The retro-styled, squared cat eye frames are part of a GLCO collection inspired by tarot in tribute to the City of Los Angeles and its mysteries. They come in three gorgeous color options, all of which change into a unique colorway under sunlight: Gemini/Semi-Flat Grey Gradient, Alchemist/Semi-Flat Yellow Brown Gradient, and Phoenix/Semi-Flat G15. For traditionalists – and those who like to wear their sunglasses at night – the »Magician« is also available in three non-transforming colorways. We’re hopelessly under the spell of these magic shades and can’t wait to see the rest of the collection.

ANNIVERSARY

Unique Californian Eyewear Design For The World Four decades ago, the story of l.a.eyeworks started with a single storefront on Melrose Avenue in Los Angeles. On a mission to challenge the established rules of the eyewear business, the design-driven brand has since introduced its quintessential Los Angeles style to global audiences. Never afraid to go against the grain or speak out on social issues, l.a.eyeworks has won a loyal following over the last 40 years, including A-list celebrity fans and superstars. In celebration of the milestone anniversary, spectr reflects on the past, present and future of l.a.eyeworks with Co-Founder and Co-Designer Gai Gherardi. 72

Brand philosophy personified: After four decades in business, Gai Gherardi remains the face of L.A.EYEWORKS.

ANNIVERSARY

po r tr a i t STEFAN DONGUS st i l l s RAPHAEL SCHMITZ log o gr a p h i c MIKE FINK text DIRK VOGEL

First of all, congratulations on your

consistently through our work: curiosity,

Thank you for the good wishes!

ty, and above all, using every tool at our

Barbara McReynolds, Margo Willits

disposal to encourage people to become

40th brand anniversary, Gai!

and I really are astonished by how profoundly wonderful and also surreal it is to celebrate the 40th birthday of l.a.eyeworks.

What would you say are the enduring brand values that have defined l.a. eyeworks?

humor, compassion, celebrating diversi-

more of who they are truly meant to be. Things started happening rather quickly

after launching your brand in the flagship store on Melrose. How did you approach these first steps?

The incredible acceleration and growth of l.a.eyeworks in the first decade is phe-

Looking across the span of four deca-

nomenal to think about now. But at the

des, there are certain values – perhaps

time, we thought nothing of it… because

we think of them more as commit-

we didn’t really have time to dwell on it!

ments and being of service – that flow

We operated – as we always have – by

ANNIVERSARY

L.A.EYEWORKS

»G arc i a« & »Ut ilit y Muffin«

The »Utility Muffin« is a tribute to Frank Zappa.

trusting our instincts. The opportunities

design, »The Beat«. Who knew then what

know this, but in 1981 we opened a café

unfolded very rapidly. Within a month of

a marker it would be for l.a.eyeworks

next door to l.a.eyeworks called City

opening, our store was often so crowded

to have a cameo as the replicant eye

Café, which went on to become City

that we had to lock the door and hang

shop in Ridley Scott’s masterpiece Blade

Restaurant on La Brea Avenue in 1985.

up a sign apologizing to those waiting

Runner? There was the first ad we took in

outside. When something goes off like

Interview magazine and the birth of our ‘A

that, there’s not much you can do but fly

face is like a work of art…’ portrait cam-

by the seat of your pants!

paign with photographer Greg Gorman.

Those were incredible years. That sounds thrilling. So you’ve probably met many celebrities over the years.

Sure. We were inspired by Andy Warhol in

We showed at Silmo for the first time in

many ways, and to see him shooting his

the ’80s across from our dear friend and

famous Polaroids in front of our store in

There are many, like the first time Elton

eyewear design hero Alain Mikli. In 1985,

the early years always sticks in my mind

John walked into our store in 1980 or the

we had the honor of being invited to open

as a highlight. A lot of people have come

thrill of getting a call from Bergdorf Good-

a second location at South Coast Plaza

through our doors since 1979, including

man asking to buy our inaugural frame

in Costa Mesa. And many people don’t

celebrities of course. Tina Turner, Cher,

What were some of the milestones on the way to becoming an international brand?

ANNIVERSARY

L.A.EYEWORKS »G io« & »Tu rban «

The use of a specific polymer in the »Utility Muffin«, »Gio« and »Turban« allows for incredibly delicate designs.

» Va rd a « & » B a t e s«

All L.A.EYEWORKS frames come replete with the brand’s typical frog toe temple tips.

Elizabeth Taylor, Bob Dylan, Jodie Foster, Miles Davis, Carrie Fisher, Luther Vandross, Robin Williams, Whoopi Goldberg, Ringo Starr, RuPaul, and Iggy Pop to name just a few. One of the ambitions of

Monk, Elizabeth Streb.

phers to dive in and expand the creative

That’s a heavy line-up. What kind of ini-

vocabulary of l.a.eyeworks. And in

anniversary?

party in Los Angeles. Please come!

tiatives do you have planned for the 40th We’re going to kick off the year with a

spring 2020, of course, there will be a big How has the design DNA of your brand

our ad campaign was to interrogate, as

worldwide window campaign in Septem-

much as it honored, the notion of celebri-

ber as a way to honor the accounts who

ty and who could be one. For us per-

have done the critical work of bringing our

sonally, ‘celebrities’ and VIPs were also

frames to life. All of the glasses designed

were reactionary in many ways. From

the people we loved, like artists such as

in this year will bear a special ‘40’ mark

gender expectations to fashion to color,

David Hockney, Jim Dine, Barbara Kruger,

on our well-known ‘frog toe’ temple tip.

we were dissatisfied with the norms of

and Ed Ruscha, designers and architects

And we’re going to accelerate the colla-

eyewear and optical retailing in the ’70s.

like Ettore Sottsass, Zaha Hadid, and

borative work we have always done with

We wanted to change the conversation

Frank Gehry, and performers like Meredith

graphic designers, artists, and photogra-

and we sensed that others might also be

evolved over the years – and what has remained unchanged?

The early impulses of l.a.eyeworks

ANNIVERSARY

L.A.EYEWORKS »O xbow «

The glasses of the model »Oxbow« have a great color range.

ready for a paradigm shift. So we began

material that allows us to create intricate

the diverse beauty of the landscape of

l.a.eyeworks by crossing the bound-

designs requiring strength, and at the

faces we see around us. Many things,

aries of gender and upsetting traditional

same time exhibiting the warmth and

from pop culture to fashion to politics,

standards of beauty. Once we saw how

vibrancy of traditional acetate. And it will

inform how those faces look from day to

those ideas could operate, so much ope-

come as no surprise that we continue to

day and year to year. Barbara and I have

ned up for us. And we still work from that

delve deep into the world of color and

always taken all this in on a deeply intuitive

perspective today.

pattern, finding new ways to reveal both

level, and we work from there.

How does the upcoming Fall 2019 collection carry on the design legacy?

You’ll see many hallmarks of our design work in the Fall 2019 collection. On the frontier of material exploration, we’ve

through technique, and at other times, allowing the hue and spark of the material to build itself into the frame it wants to be. How did you come up with the theme?

We are often asked about the inspirations

made three frames – namely »Turban«,

behind our collections. And since 1979,

»Gio« and »Utility« – with a new polymer

the answer has always been the same:

It’s been an incredible journey. What can we expect from l.a.eyeworks in the future?

Exuberance mixed with intention!

Thanks for the interview, Gai.

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OPTI2020 January 6-8 / C2 223

HH EMBARKING BY A NDREA KADL ER & M ATTHI AS WOLF [Hamburg] p h ot o s MATTHIAS WOLF a s s is t a n t ROLAND HERZOG p ro d u ct ion ANDREA KADLER h a ir & m a ke -u p CAROLINE WOLF w it h CHANEL mo d e ls JULIA P.& JAN S. a t MODELWERK, COLLINS at LOUISAMODELS s p e cia l t h a n k s t o PROLIGHTRENT HAMBURG

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100

COLLAB OF THE ISSUE

BARTON PERREIRA »T hu r s ton Cr ys t al«

102

Legalize Eyewear! 420-friendly lifestyle statement on the lens.

COLLAB OF THE ISSUE

High-End Glasses Go High p h o to s RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

Often called the most progressive state in the union, California is at the forefront of a massive cultural shift. Since the recent legalization of marijuana for recreational use, cannabis has not only lost its stigma as the sedative of choice for deadbeats and stoners. Cannabis has also become appreciated for its medical properties and spawned a luxury market for high-end vaporizers and CBD oils. As a result, hemp leaf emblems are no longer limited to skateboard decks and streetwear socks but have now officially found their way into high-end eyewear collections: Released in April 2019, the custom »Thurston Crystal« sunglasses from L.A.-based eyewear brand barton perreira feature a cannabis leaf etched into the lens as well as cannabis icons across the accompanying cleaning cloth and luxury custom case. Created in partnership with luxury retailers Barneys New York, the genesis Multi-layered collabo: Barton Perreira meets Barneys meets Kenton Parker.

of ‘The High End’ version of the »Thurston Crystal« also involved resident Los Angeles artist Kenton Parker. Known for his provocative and visionary work across a wide number of mediums – his recent The New Landscapes paintings depicted desolate landscapes on Mars – Parker created the artwork on the limited-edition box for the elevated glasses. The collab between Kenton Parker, who in 2018 completed a mural for Google’s new offices in Playa Vista, and barton perreira has actually been a long time coming: Kenton has known eyewear designer Patty Perreira for 25 years and the two long-time Angelenos share a fondness for each other’s work. Both focus on themes like the future and new beginnings. Plus, Kenton owns multiple pairs of Patty’s frames and relies on them to see the world, so officially joining up for a collab made perfect sense. As the frame for the collab, Perreira and Parker chose the timeless and stylish »Thurston« model from barton perreira’s line-up. Representing clean lines and simplicity, the »Thurston Crystal« sunglasses are rendered in a crystal colorway and fitted with premium mineral glass lenses featuring anti-reflective coating and the iconic marijuana leaf on the right lens. Really putting the ‘high’ in high-end eyewear, the classic D-frame silhouette comes with marijuanathemed accessories in the aforementioned limited-edition box painted by Kenton Parker in a starburst geometric pattern. Sold at Barneys New York, barton perreira stores and select opticians, these 420-friendly beauties

are finding their wearers quickly. Blink, and you might miss them! 103

COLLECTION SHOOT

Scandinavian Label Blends High-Grade Titanium With Street Influences p h otos SACHA TASSILO HÖCHSTETTER [M o n a co] a t NEUBAUER styling KONSTANTINOS GKOUMPETIS

Are titanium frames making a major comeback

m a ke-u p JOANA RONQUILLO

for a titanium renaissance. Especially because

ha ir SIGNE CHRISTOFFERSEN m od els MATHILDE M a t ENJOY MODELS & KEKE VIRGINIE

next season? Judging by the collection highlights featured in this issue, it seems like we’re in premium Danish eyewear brand ørgreen is doubling down on titanium in both prescription and sunglasses styles. In our Collection Shoot, we caught one of the standouts: The special Titanium Sun collection titled Graffiti Woman blends ørgreen’s signature expertise for crafting premium titanium frames with street art influences from 1990s Paris, rendered in three bold and oversized frames. Here’s the lowdown from Ligia Maracu, PR and Communications Manager at ørgreen.

104

COLLECTION SHOOT

ØRGREEN

»F e mm e 97« -

shirt WORKINGTITLES pant s DAWID TOMASZEWSKI b racelet HERMES hat H&M

105

COLLECTION SHOOT

What influenced you in the design of the Graffiti Woman collection?

This collection is influenced by graffiti festivals in Paris during the ’90s.

Does this collection also come with a new visual identity or campaign?

It doesn’t necessarily introduce a new identity, but it emphasizes the urban characteristics of the frames through contemporary designs, colors and shapes. And it will definitely be introducing new campaign images to reflect the graffiti influences.

In terms of materials, you made an interesting choice with this colorful titanium line. Why?

We made this new collection in titanium because of its unique properties and because it allowed us to combine two innovative techniques that we were already using, but separately, thus pushing the boundaries in design and technology. We are referring to the very soft and round edges of the ultra-thin fronts, paired with soldered temples. Also unique about these frames is the contrast between the sharp temple extensions and the very soft, rounded fronts. It was very important for us to bring a little bit of softness to our otherwise quite sharp titanium collection.

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t op H&M sneakers STRADIVARIOUS

»Q u a nt um 4 . 0 3 « -

to p H&M

106

COLLECTION SHOOT

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107

COLLECTION SHOOT

»Q u ant u m 4.05« -

shirt ESSENTIAL ANTWERP

ØRGREEN

»Q u a nt u m 4 .0 4 « -

ja cket H&M ba g ZARA

108

COLLECTION SHOOT

ørgreen already enjoys a long-standing

reputation for titanium frames. What makes this collection different?

The uniqueness of this collection comes from the oversized design of all three frames, the innovative coloring technique that replicates the gradient application of graffiti spray, and the design innovation of the soldered edges and rounded titanium

ØRGREEN

frames.

»Mi ss S ilo «

Colors are always key at ørgreen. What

are the colorways?

top PE NATION

This collection introduces very feminine,

pa n ts LEVI’S

soft, but vibrant colors. For us it was

socks CALZEDONIA

important to pay tribute to the art of graffiti,

sneaker s STRADIVARIUS

which was a major inspiration behind the designs. So we applied a gradient transition between the colors, very similar to the ones used in graffiti. All frames will have a combination of two colors, for the front and the temples. Sounds fantastic! Thanks for the interview.

109

COLLAB OF THE ISSUE

IC! BERLIN

»Han sa«

» B elle v u e «

Matt Gold

Ecru / Bronze

Black

Matt Gold

Different Background, Same Ground p h ot o s RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

Sometimes the most interesting results emerge from combinations that seem a bit far-fetched and experimental at first sight. Like when candy makers blend dark chocolate with hot chili peppers for a delicious combo. Another delicious combo is the recent collab between popular eyewear brand ic! berlin and renowned furniture designer Sebastian Herkner. Right on time for Silmo 2019, the Berlin-based brand is launching a capsule collection with the Designer Of The Year-winning Sebastian Herkner. The special kick: All models in the collection are named after famous Berlin buildings and crafted from high-end materials with a sense of modern elegance.

110

COLLAB OF THE ISSUE

IC! BERLIN

»A vu s«

»Dahle m«

Matt Gold

Bronze

Matt Gold

Tapenade / Gun Metal

Every single frame is rendered in a clearly defined design language in the signature style of ic! berlin and Sebastian Herkner. One of the major design attributes lies in surface textures: By blending glossy and matted finishes, which are also found on Herkner’s furniture designs and the eyewear brand’s hybrid frames like the current »Avus« model, the collection achieves a striking effect. The use of transparent acetate allows a glimpse into the frames’ interior elements while Herkner’s signature style

the collab also have in common is a target audience that values

shines in the subtle metal details. What both partners in

quality in terms of materials and construction and is always on the hunt for one-of-a-kind products while appreciating the mixture of time-honored craftsmanship with modern technologies. Overall, the resulting capsule collection is visionary, creative and even hotter than dark chocolate with hot chili peppers. Applause for our Collab of the Issue! 111

MASSADA

»Slee p e r I I « -

sweat er TIMBERLAND

MASSADA

» F itzca ra l do « -

t e d dy LEVI’S

112

THE DAY AFTER

MASSADA

»A t mos phäre« -

sweat er ESPRIT

A ST ORY BY HANIB AL L SA LIB A & JAK OB WI EC HM ANN [Berlin] p hot o s JAKOB WIECHMANN a s s ist ed by MILENA ZARA p ro d u ct ion FABRIKA s t y lin g & cre a t ive d ire ct io n HANIBALL SALIBA h a ir & m a ke -u p DIRK NEUHÖFFER at NINA KLEIN mo d e ls MARLENE, ERIK & JOHANNA K. at VIVA MODELS & CHARLOTTE a t MEGA MODELS

113

MASSADA

»T h e S ile nce « -

swe ate r LEVI’S

GLCO

»AC E «

sweate r UMBRO

swea te r DOCKERS swea t p a n t s UMBRO

GLCO

» L ov e r s«

cardig an UNIQLO

114

GLCO

» S t ar«

sweat e r UNIQLO

GLCO

»Mor n in g si d e« jacket LEVI’S

115

KAREN WALKER »A le k« -

sweat er ESSENTIAL ANTWERP t - shirt LEVIS denims DIESEL

116

KAREN WALKER »W il m a «

KAREN WALKER »Cin d y«

c oa t BA&SH 117

FLEYE

»Su mm e r 3 0 1 8 « sweat er TOM TAYLOR

118

FLEYE

» R a i n 23 8 « swea ter UNIQLO p a n t s FIND

119

EINSTOFFEN »L a P r ince ss e «

120

EINSTOFFEN »Pe rl t a uch e r« ja cket LEVI’S sh ir t FIND

121

MARTIN&MARTIN »Wolf «

sweat er FALKE

122

SPIN ME RIGHT â&#x20AC;&#x2122;ROUND B Y S TEFAN K AP FER [Dusseldorf] produ ct ion & ret ou ch H60OFFICE st y ling

LUCIO

at 21AGENCY.DE

h a ir & m a ke -u p SIMONE K. at 21AGENCY w it h DAVINES HAIR & MAC COSMETICS m od e ls RAHEL & CARLA H. at ELENA MODELS, NOAH at IMM-MODELS

124

NEUBAU

»Max 3D « -

dress ESSENTIEL ANTWERP shoes RANI BOGERIA

NEUBAU

» V i rg i n i a 3D « -

d r ess ESSENTIEL ANTWERP sh o es RANI BOGERIA

125

ADAM SELMAN X LE SPECS »T he C oup« -

shirt TEDDY GLICKMAN

126

ADAM SELMAN X LE SPECS »T he R oyale« -

dress BA&SH b oot s RANI BOGERIA

ADAM SELMAN X LE SPECS » T h e R oya le « -

sui t MAISON SCOTCH & SODA b o ot s FLATTERED 127

KALEOS » B a r ton« -

f a u x fu r co a t ENVY sh i rt STINE GOYA

128

KALEOS »S el d e n « -

coat ENVY

129

CAZAL

»7074.004« -

b laz er MARINA HOERMANSEDER

130

CAZAL

»9 9 1 . 0 0 3 « -

dr ess STINE GOYA

CAZAL

»991. 0 0 1 « -

shirt TEDDY GLICKMAN

131

FA C E À FA C E » F re e z 2 « -

d r ess MARINA HOERMANSEDER

132

INVU

»B1000« -

shirt & t rou sers TEDDY GLICKMAN

133

EYEVAN

»E pitom e« -

b laz er ESSENTIEL ANTWERP

134

Discover our latest collection Rationalism at Silmo Stand C 139 (HALL 5)

kaleoscollection.com @kaleoscollection

COLLECTION SHOOT

Swiss Eyewear Label Goes Back To The Roots Since 1993, Swiss premium label götti has been raising the bar with high-end titanium eyewear in a clear, reductionist design language. Over the years, the innovation-driven brand has expanded its footprint to materials such as acetate and natural horn, plus a recently launched line of 3D-printed eyewear. Now götti is taking it ‘back to the roots’: In the new Titanium Collection, the lightness and flexibility afforded by titanium play the starring role. We interviewed label founder and designer Sven Götti to get the details.

GÖTTI

»Jain e« -

shirt COS, jacket ARKET

p h otos OLIVER SPIES [L a ke S t a rn b e rg ] p r od uc t i o n & sty l i n g CHRISTINE BAUMANN h a ir & ma ke- up PHILIPP LAWRENZ a t PHOENIX AGENTUR models LILLI B a t MUNICH MODELS & MATTEO GOLISANO at TIGERS MGMT 136

“A three-dimensional rendition of an aviator shape.”

COLLECTION SHOOT

GÖTTI

» L a ure a « -

ja cke t ARKET

“A Seventies eyewear shape, newly interpreted.”

137

COLLECTION SHOOT

“A masterpiece of titanium manufacturing.”

GÖTTI

»Joa n« -

shirt OFFICINE GÉNÉRALE, t op HOLIDAY BOILEAU

GÖTTI » L el a«

p u llove r GUESS

“A feminine shape with a three-dimensional finish.”

138

COLLECTION SHOOT

Hello Sven, our Collection Shoot features a few high-

lights from your new Titanium Collection. What role

does titanium play for your brand?

Once again, a rather large one. After the massive acetate boom, it suddenly became cool to wear titanium glasses as a counter-movement. Young people especially suddenly gravitated towards aviator and retro shapes.

You command a long-standing expertise with this

material. What are the special characteristics when it comes to working with titanium?

Titanium is an upscale material, processing it requires lots of experience and sensitiveness. Ever since the beginning, we’ve been producing our titanium eyewear with the same manufacturer in Japan. Also because the dedication to quality and understanding for a reductionistic design language are a harmonious fit.

Personally speaking, what do you like the most about titanium glasses?

The classic attitude of a retro or aviator shape in tita-

GÖTTI

»D u m e«

nium are unbeatable. I continue to be amazed by how thin-layered and at the same time flexible this material can be produced. I like the look, the lightness and

comfort every time I put on a pair of titanium glasses.

pu llover MANGO

Are you still personally responsible for designing the new collections?

I continue to create and conceptualize the form lan-

“Even a futuristic design can complement a face harmoniously.”

guage and the design of our new collections. Since the beginning I’ve considered this to be my core responsibility and nothing’s changed over the last 25 years.

139

COLLECTION SHOOT

What characterizes the new collection?

Shapes from the 1970s with a modern, three-dimensional shape. Or even completely new form languages, which may surprise as part of a götti collection, but

are also received surprisingly well. Plus, new color choices in unexpected places. Speaking of colorways, what is the color spectrum of the new line?

It’s predominantly a classic spectrum of black, brown, silver, gold and copper. These are supplemented by accent colors such as pink and purple.

That sounds rather loud…

As colors, pink and purple are indeed loud, but they are implemented so that they support the design in a stylish manner and evolve the collection.

Thanks for the interview, Sven.

GÖTTI

»C r i s t y « -

pullover ARKET

GÖTTI »De xi« -

“A special double bridge and color effects

pu llover GUESS

make this frame one-of-a-kind.”

“Cool edges in nice student style.” 140

laeyeworks.com

COLLAB OF THE ISSUE

Eyewear Meets Fashion In South California p h otos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

When two Southern California brands with similar aesthetic ideals get together for a collaboration, the results can be larger than the sum of all parts. Case in point: The new »Chico« sunnies, a charming love child spawned by the summer collab between eyewear

brand salt. and fashion label second/layer. The »Chico« steps to the plate as a perfectly proportioned shade available in three versions: black and silver, black and gold and tortoise and silver. With a healthy dose of unforgettable 1990s flavor, the »Chico« embodies the relaxed lifestyle of Southern California skaters and surfers who love the vibes of their coastal home. The glasses also represent values like minimalism, a love for carefully appointed details and uncompromising quality. These characteristics are equally important for both salt. and second/layer and as a result, the »Chico« is handmade in Japan from high-grade Japanese acetate and fitted with premium polarized sunglasses lenses. “I only have eyes for you”: With the collab and its related advertising campaign, both brands display their love for mellow summer evenings overlooking scenic sunsets. And they once again prove that great things happen when like-minded brands get together to create timeless icons.

Here’s what Chris Noyes from salt. had to say about the collaboration with second/

layer:

The collab with the fashion label shines in the luxe fabric sleeve for the frames.

The campaign slogan is featured on the insides of the temples.

142

COLLAB OF THE ISSUE

Color: BK/SIV

S A LT. x S E C O N D / L A Y E R » C h ico «

Color: TT/GLD

Color: BK/GLD

Who came up with the idea for the collab?

I have known Josh and the crew at second/layer for over a decade and from the very beginning have been a fan of their fashion designs for men. So I simply approached these guys and it already became clear in the first meeting that it would be a good fit!

What exactly makes both labels such a good match?

Both brands operate with a highly similar approach toward design and execution. Every product is created by hand from the best materials on the market. And what’s more, both brands have an affinity towards timeless classics with a modern touch.

What type of customer are you targeting with the collab?

Our collaboration celebrates the coastal California lifestyle and its rich history. It is aimed at everyone who appreciates iconic, timeless styles created from the best materials. 143

C A M PA I G N I N S I G H T

More FLEYE for male customers: The new collection mostly consists of unisex styles

Fleye Draws Inspiration From Danish Grandmasters The name fleye is short for ‘Fine Looking EYE’ and the design-driven Danish eyewear label continues to look in the most unexpected places for inspiration. After releasing a quirky collection inspired by the Danish national dish, Smørrebrød, a few years ago, fleye turned its eye to the country’s long history of grandmaster painters in the new Nordic Light Collection. Co-founder and head designer Annette Saust Estø paints a complete picture of the new line. 144

»A sgar « Color compositions are the fundamental design element in the Nordic Light Collection

FLEYE

» A l v in«

c a mp a i gn i ma g es JOSEPHINE SVANE in sp i r a t i o n a l a r two rk IDA EMILIE RISAGER p a ck sh o ts PACKSHOOT APS

Hello Annette, it‘s been a long time since I visited you, but your

office – or should I say estate – impressed me a lot. I guess nothing has changed since then?

Thanks, and yes, we still have our office space in a big manor estate located in the countryside 25 minutes outside of Copenhagen. We wouldn’t change it for anything. It’s proven that being in nature increases productivity and creativity. It’s very inspiring for us to see the blue sky, the green trees and the light changing from season to season.

For some years now, you have been putting a lot of effort into the collection themes. Why?

Creating our own inspirational images and finding matching inspirations for our collections is very important to us. For the past seasons, our inspiration theme has been closely aligned with our Danish heritage featuring a modern twist. That is also the case this year.

What is the theme of the latest collection?

» Mil a s«

Nordic Light.

What is the reference?

Nordic Light refers to the Skagen Painters and their fabulous com-

145

C A M PA I G N I N S I G H T

»Je ssie «

FLEYE

»Je ssie«

position of colors and light. With a modern interpretation of the Skagen Painters, we have experimented with various liquids to create our own inspirational artwork for the new collection of the same name. These are the common theme for the entire collection. Tell us a bit more about the Skagen Painters.

The Skagen Painters were a Scandinavian artist colony in the 19th century. The name derives from the village of Skagen where they settled. It was their goal to portray the remarkable light and scenery. The light had an almost translucent quality that merged the sea and sky.

You already mentioned your experiments with various liquids. What exactly did you find?

Inspired by the oil paintings, we have created our own stunning abstract artworks by experimenting with materials with different surface characteristics. In the process, we also investigated how these surfaces interact with light. It turned out that condensed milk with its liquid and glossy surface combined with solid and transparent gelatin could bring texture, contrast and depth to a blank canvas. The whole process was captured by still life photographer, Ida Emilie Risager.

What kind of colors did you play with?

We have played with colors from the Skagen paintings, but implementing these liquids naturally modernized the color palette and moved it in its own direction. 146

»K e r r y«

What was the biggest surprise for you?

We didn’t know what to expect when we first started. It really was a big surprise to see how the beautiful patterns, structures, and shapes emerge in the process.

What materials do you work with in your Nordic Light Collection?

We work with four different high-quality and lightweight materials: HDCA Acetate, Beta-Titanium, Carbon and Wood. Beyond the artistic inspirations, what were the key goals of the

»K a tr i n e «

collection?

We have primarily focused on colors, light and transparency. However, design concepts such as depth, structure, and organic shapes from the artworks we have created, have also been applied to make the new eyewear.

Aside from the overall theme, what makes this collection special compared to your previous offerings?

In the past years, there has generally been a higher demand for more men’s eyewear. Therefore, we have listened to the opticians, and for this collection designed considerably more styles for men, which is quite special compared to our previous collections.

Thanks for the interview, Annette. It’s always inspiring to learn about your creative processes. 147

A R T. D E S I G N

Spectacles With Maximum Minimalism

M E T R O P O L I TA N

» 8 05 9 «

Color: black-anthracite

Gray and black, metal and glass, straight lines and

Lots of anniversaries in this issue! The Bauhaus movement is turning 100 years old. That’s 100 years of iconic design, retro-futurism and straightforward style. The focus of this art movement is easy to define: Clean minimalism expressed via linear design elements and geometric shapes. Without romantic kitsch, superfluous adornments or playful ornamentation. As it turns out, these values also resonate with German eyewear brand metropolitan.

curvatures.

148

A R T. D E S I G N

Color: mint-palladium

M E T R O P O L I TA N »8057«

Color: gunmetal-violet

p h o t o s EDA CALISTI

In celebration of the Bauhaus movement’s anniversary, metropolitan has created a collection according to the exact stylistic blueprint created by the trailblazers behind Bauhaus. The direct link between Bauhaus style and the minimalist collection can be found in the frame designs: These models make a strong statement not by packing on obvious flair, but by cultivating a mix of materials and unique form language in each and every frame according to the Bauhaus mission statement. Taking a closer look at the pieces in this collection, the clean and straightforward lines make a strong impression. What’s more, it’s obvious that the designers at metropolitan also took inspiration from a furniture design milestone: the Wassily

Chair created by Marcel Breuer. The designer began experimenting with interesting mixtures of materials and shapes as early as 1925, for instance by blending cool silver metal with smooth fabric. In 2019, metropolitan is following in his footsteps by launching the Special Edition Inspired by Bauhaus. 149

A R T. D E S I G N

Color: smoke blue-gunmetal mat

Color: rosegold

M E T R O P O L I TA N »8058«

Color: grey-palladium

Created by grand masters of the craft, these frames are for the free thinkers in the world’s urban hotbeds. The individualists, eccentrics, and aesthetes. For all sophisticated minds who appreciate the effective, world-renowned and timeless Bauhaus design, and would welcome a chance to wear a piece of the philosophy in daily life. Every metropolitan frame in the collection boasts its own unique features, yet all of them share a penchant for unpretentious, perfectly proportioned and undisputable beauty, at first and second sight. As a fitting translation of the revolutionary Bauhaus aesthetic into the here and now, these models possess the right amount of craftsmanship and artistic inspiration to endure every fleeting trend without a problem. So it’s safe to say that they will remain aesthetically relevant and wearable 100 years from now, for the 200th anniversary of Bauhaus. 150

CHECK OUR SPECTR IN MOTION SECTION FOR THE LATEST VIDEOS WITH TOP NOTCH DESIGNER LABELS AND FIND YOUR INSPIRATION FOR CONTEMPORARY EYEWEAR.

HAFFMANS & NEUMEISTER » Pl a y fa ir«

152

SLEEPING IN PROTEST BY FLORI AN RENNER [London] st y ling TOM LEEPER hair & make- u p LESLEY VYE u sing BUMBLE AND BUMBLE for HAIR and WELEDA for SKINCARE models FARHANAH at BOOKINGS & SAM FAIRER at MODELS1 F lowers by TABBY RICHARDS at THE WILD FLOWER FLORIST

153

ECO

» Ve rb ie r«

»K e a«

su i t GIORGIO ARMANI, s h irt ETON

coat CHRYSALIS ENGLAND, hat LOCK & CO, to p VINTAGE

154

KOBERG

»K T 6041« -

co a t CHRYSALIS ENGLAND, t rou sers BARENA VENEZIA

155

LINDBERG

» 068«

»084«

s h irt L‘AGENCE

hat JOHN PEARSE

b e re t DANIEL W. FLETCHER

cord su it TAISCE

wa is t co a t & sk irt VINTAGE

156

ju mper INIS MEÁIN

157

L.G.R

»Dakhl a« -

t op SUNSPEL

158

L.G.R

»L alibel a« -

b la z e r RAG & BONE, shirt BARENA VENEZIA

159

ETNIA BARCELONA »B all ard« -

C oat CHRYSALIS ENGLAND, shirt THE KOOPLES, t rou sers DANIEL W. FLETCHER

160

ETNIA BARCELONA »O mot e san do« -

hat VINTAGE, coat JOHN PEARSE

161

INVU

»T1905« -

c oat CHRYSALIS ENGLAND to p SUNPEL d enims BLACKHORSE LANE ATELIERS

162

INVU

»B 2 9 2 8 « -

j acke t VINTAGE tro use rs YMC sho e s G.H BASS & CO

163

M O R E L p a r N AT H A L I E B L A N C »90005C« -

ju mper VINTAGE

164

TITANIUM

light comfortable flexible

Charmant GmbH Europe | www.charmant.de | SN33032 BR

COLLECTION SHOOT

H O F F M A N N N AT U R A L E Y E W E A R

» V7 7 7 2 «

»R V A ks el«

b lo u s e MARIE LUND

dress BA&SH

166

COLLECTION SHOOT

Natural Treasures Are The Real Luxury At hoffmann natural eyewear, optical craftsmanship meets buffalo horn. Design and experience work hand in hand. And a passion for frame design meets environmental consciousness. The resulting frames are not just expertly made, but also (naturally) beautiful! Here’s a look at the latest collection.

a st ory by H anib all S alib a & Jakob Wiechmann

»320« -

swe a t e r DONDUP

phot os JAKOB WIECHMANN [B randenb u rg ] assist ant JORIS FELIX PATZSCHKE produ ct ion FABRIKA st y ling, creat ive direct ion & set desig n HANIBALL SALIBA hair & make- u p RABEA at NINA KLEIN models FREYA at PROMOD, LINUS at PROMOD, JASSICA at MEGA MODELS

167

COLLECTION SHOOT

HOFFMANN N AT U R A L EYEWEAR

»2203« -

shirt FREITAG, pant s DIGEL “Everybody loves black! Especially when the extraordinary surface structure transforms classic black into a sensual experience – both tactile and visual.” (Jutta Kahlbetzer)

For more than 40 years, German brand hoffmann natural eyewear has been cultivating its own frames with a natural finish, based on a unique blend of tradition, progress, and craftsmanship. But they’re not traditionalists set in their own ways. They are constantly engaged with the zeitgeist and the latest advancements in eyewear technology. At the same time, the brand never loses sight of its own roots and company values such as natural materials, sustainability, quality, as well as authenticity and style. hoffmann natural eyewear represents artisanal craftsmanship, a perfect

symbiosis between a variety of horn sheets and other natural ingredients molded into unique frame styles. It’s all true to the company motto: Made by hand – made in Germany. The stylishly composed, hand-crafted models dazzle with their softly nuanced colorways, clear form language and bold grain structure, which can only be painted by Mother Nature. Every single frame created in Germany’s Eifel region is a robust, one-of-a-kind original, skillfully enhancing the wearer’s individuality. The frames are constant companions through the everyday hustle. Wearers especially appreciate the natural feel of the frames, thanks to their natural components as well as high comfort of wear that renders them noticeably different, but hardly noticeable.

168

COLLECTION SHOOT

»32 0 « -

shirt SAMSOE SAMSOE, t - shi rt AMERICAN APPAREL “This model dazzles with a masterful interplay between glossy and matted surfaces. The polished facets are a standout and lend the frame that extra something.” (Wolfgang Thelen)

» 2275« -

d re s s TSE CASHMERE “A real eye-catcher in a timeless panto shape with a keyhole bridge and combination of black and white natural horn. Wow!” (J.K.)

169

COLLECTION SHOOT

HOFFMANN N AT U R A L EYEWEAR

»675« -

coat BA&SH “This frame is a master study in contrasts. The prominent, curved upper rim is complemented by almost invisible lenses, while the natural color palette adds to the tension.” (W.T.)

hoffmann is dedicated to appreciating the treasures of nature, using resources

sparingly and responsibly while also advocating environmental protection. It’s all fundamental to the company’s underlying philosophy. As a result, sustainable processes are not a new chapter but deeply ingrained in day-to-day work. For instance, all shavings from horn carving are used as natural fertilizer in agriculture and vineyards. Focused, reductionistic and with an eye on essentials, hoffmann natural eyewear has raised the bar with lots of passion, investments into product deve-

lopment, and skilled processes in crafting unique natural frames. Through it all, the brand has cultivated the value of taking the right amount of time to do things right. A rare privilege in today’s stress-filled times, but so very essential to the creative process.

170

»22 7 2 « -

sweate r DONDUP “This color excels in terms of versatility. Natural Havana tones create a stylistic whole that matches every outfit.” (J.K.)

»2278«

»2278« -

d re s s BA&SH “A feminine oversized model that flatters delicate facial features and looks understated thanks to its delicate rims.” (J.K.)

171

COLLECTION SHOOT

HOFFMANN N AT U R A L EYEWEAR »229 3 « -

suit SFIZIO “This versatile frame is a

»676« -

s hirt WINDSOR “Soft lines and warm colors create a dreamy impression!” (W.T.)

classic which can take the centerstage in any wardrobe, depending on the colorway, or just remain humbly in the background.” (W.T.)

»T 8502« -

su it SANDRO PARIS “Opposites attract! Warm natural horn elements blend with cool titanium into a lightweight, robust and ever so wearable frame that’s bound to resonate with horn enthusiasts.” (J.K.)

172

EDITOR’S CHOICE

LINDBERG »8328«

LINDBERG – Fashion Forward

»8321«

phot o RAPHAEL SCHMITZ Transparency is not only in high demand in today’s political and eco-

»8319«

nomic landscape, but also in the eyewear business. Transparency affects the production chain and choice of materials in the optical industry, as well as the design of the actual frames. For a quite literal interpretation of transparency – and a very bold one at that – we want to draw your attention to these three styles from Danish premium label lindberg. Why did we choose these three models from the Scandinavian eyewear brand’s vast portfolio? Answer: Because they have that special touch that could well be setting a new trend. These oversized frames all make a noticeable fashion statement with their bold form language. But on the other hand, their transparent material makes them appear delicate and lofty. What may sound contradictory at first is achieved by the use of lindberg’s signature titanium temples in combination with the minimalist hinge design. This approach allows the composite frames with the inner rims made of acetate to rest comfortably on the wearer’s face, but also lends a premium tactility to the high-grade overall finish. We especially like the fact that the shape of the lenses masterfully adheres to the frame design, yet without surrendering completely. The independent character of the inner rim and exterior shapes of these lindberg models creates an unmistakable look that could become a season favorite. For starters, here’s this issue’s Editor’s Choice award for these masterful transparent frames from Denmark. 174

»C hord G « -

bla zer RICHARD JAMES top SELECTED HOMME

THE SHOREDITCH JOB

MASUNAGA

BY WI LLI AM FE R C H IC H I [London] assist ant CHRIS PINNOCK st y ling AMANDA EARLE assist ed by ANA ASPIUNZA hair & make- u p RINO RICCIO usi ng O-WAY models ALEXANDER BECK at UNSIGNED GROUP & MALCOM TEFERI at MILK MANAGEMENT

MASUNAGA

»G M S -3 9 6 B T S «

t u rt l e ne ck SELECTED HOMME

177

H O F F M A N N N AT U R A L E Y E W E A R »319«

»Na t u rhor n 2 1 3 3 «

j ump er PEREGRINE

coat PEREGRINE 178

H O F F M A N N N AT U R A L E Y E W E A R »C or n e d e buf f le 2153 « -

hoodie SCRT SCRT jacket BEN SHERMAN

179

KOBERG

»K T 6 0 3 9 « -

sh ir t SELECTED HOMME

180

KOBERG

»K T 6 0 4 0 « -

t u rtl e ne ck RICHARD JAMES

181

BLACKFIN

» Da rlin g ton«

»L e v e n «

shirt BEN SHERMAN

t u rt leneck SELECTED HOMME

tro u s e rs SELECTED HOMME

coat BEN SHERMAN

182

BLACKFIN

»S an db r i d ge« -

shirt BEN SHERMAN jacket SCRT SCRT

183

STRELLSON »S N3 3 0 3 4 « -

ja cket RICHARD JAMES top SCRT SCRT

184

STRELLSON »S N33032« -

jacket BEN SHERMAN shirt RICHARD JAMES

185

EYEVAN

shir t STYLIST’S OWN

shirt STYLIST’S OWN

»Xo c «

»L u bin -E«

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SEE YOU AT SILMO PARIS

HALL 5, BOOTH F016

DRIVE-BY SOLO BY OLI V ER S P I ES [Munich] p ro du ct ion CHRISTINE BAUMANN s t y ling TRANG CAO at FAME AGENCY h a ir & m a ke -u p PHILIPP LAWRENZ at PHOENIX AGENTUR m o d e ls RAFAELA BOSI at MUNICH MODELS s p e cia l t h ank s t o SCHUTTENBACH AUTOMOBILE

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L.A.EYEWORKS »Tu rb a n « -

d r ess DIMITRI

189

ØRGREEN

»F e mm e 9 7 « -

blouse ANNI CARLSON r in g SIF JAKOBS

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ØRGREEN » L owl it a « -

c o a t LIU JO d r ess IVY & OAK

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S A LT. X S E C O N D / L A Y E R »C h ico « -

bla zer MOS MOS blou se RICH & ROYAL p a n ts SFIZIO 192

S A LT. X S E C O N D / L A Y E R » C hico « -

b l o u s e & s k irt GESTUZ ea r rin g s SWAROWSKI

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BOGNER »67202« -

b l a zer & p a n t s MOS MOSH r i n g SIF JAKOBS

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BOGNER »672 0 0 « -

c oa t BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN h a t LOEVENICH 195

BOGNER »67304« -

b lou se & ju mpsu it MARCEL OSTERTAG

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MARC O’POLO »505 0 8 5 . 2 1 « -

c oa t GESTUZ h a t LOEVENICH

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ALAIN MIKLI

» N° 8 6 2 0 0 2 /7 3 « -

b l o u se SOFIE SCHNOOR

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COLLECTION CHECK

LOOK

»107 6 5 . M 2 « “For those looking for absolute functionality in their glasses, clean and minimal aesthetics. Essential in all its components with the reduced front thicknesses in gilded metal and handcrafted color thread created in a special look – Made in Italia manufacturing process. The temples from ultra-flexible material are secured by our patented hinge system to ensure movement without the use of screws.”

»049 4 1 . W 1 « “See-through elegance was the imperative that our designers have pursued for this best-seller. High-quality flexible Nil ensures inimitable transparency, a feature that makes the glasses extremely pure in aesthetics. The modern design is supplemented by comfort through extremely flexible and hand-finished Japanese titanium temples, inserted without the use of screws in our unique system.”

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COLLECTION CHECK

LOOK _ Made in Italia phot os RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

With a strong sensibility for style and a constant drive to improve the state of the art, Italian eyewear brands have led the way where others follow. These values are embodied by look –

LOOK

Made in Italia: Since 1978, the company loca-

» 1 0 7 7 1 .M2 «

ted in the town of Longarone in the Dolomites

“Eccentric, nonconformist. Characte-

high-quality eyewear with a unique perspective.

region has been manufacturing and designing

rized by the combination of metal and

While other companies outsource or delocalize

acetate to guarantee a very comfor-

their production, the company stays true to its

table fit. The golden visible structure

name and continues to manufacture everything

underlines the upper profile and

in Italy – even the eyewear cases – according

enhances the aesthetic impact of the

to proprietary processes. The use of innovative

glasses. Aligned with the latest trends

materials such as stainless steel or pure tita-

in design, a model for those looking

nium and development of new technologies

to express refined femininity.”

– like a patented hinge system – have been central to the company’s DNA from day one. This foundation reflects in all three collections: The adult luxury label materika, kids’ premium line lookkino and adult premium brand look. In this issue’s collection shoot, we present four styles from the new look collection; modern

» 1 0 7 7 0 .M3 «

classics created true to the motto ‘less is

“An instant classic. One of our new

more’. For exclusive insights on each model,

best-sellers with a wide and squared

we caught up with designer Giordano Cazzola

shape that is on trend. A clever combi-

at the company’s workshop in the heart of the

nation of metal, here in the exclusive

Dolomites.

rose-gold version and opalescent acetates worked into the thickness. Playful transparency reveals the preciousness of the metal through the brightness of the plastic. Rigorously produced and processed in Italy in our lab.” 201

INTERVIEW

ETNIA BARCELONA

»S ant a Monica B Z HV « -

dress BA&SH earring TASSEL TATE

»L aJoll a S un P K B X «

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pho to s HARLING & DARSELL [ Be rl i n] sty l i ng BODO ERNLE hai r & m ake - u p CLAUDIA FISCHER mo de l s SARAH & FYNN at O.M. MANAGEMENT

INTERVIEW

Facing The Future With Etnia Barcelona’s David Pellicer Founded in 2000 by lifelong eyewear aficionado David Pellicer, etnia barcelona has blazed its own trail with design-driven products and art-inspired brand stories. Plus, a healthy dose of rebel spirit; doing things in a unique way without paying attention to the masses. Over the last two decades, this quintessential brand DNA has connected with a global audience. Beloved by starlets and celebrities, etnia barcelona is at home in the world’s coolest neighborhoods from Shoreditch to Williamsburg. Vintage or modern, acetate or titanium, micro-frames or oversized – the Spanish brand masters all the shapes, always with a signature twist. Aside from high-profile artist collaborations with the likes of David Hockney, the company also gives back through the etnia barcelona foundation to bring vision correction to

children in need. Behind the scenes, the rebel designer brand from Barcelona has grown into a best-selling eyewear label on a global scale. etnia barcelona now operates a flagship store as well as offices in Barcelona, Miami, Hong Kong and Vancouver to be closer to international customers. Through it all, the label has managed to maintain its

x x xtoxsurprise « rebellious spirit and» x ability and delight with designs in quintessential etnia barcelona style. To find out how it all works, what etnia has done to accommodate this radical growth and how the style-driven brand wants to navigate the future, we talk to the man at the

helm of the ship: Here’s our interview with etnia barce -

ETNIA BARCELONA

lona founder and president David Pellicer.

»L a pa B KO G« 203

INTERVIEW

ETNIA BARCELONA

» C a r n a v y Sun WH C O« -

ju mp er MAIAMI dr ess STINE GOYA 204

INTERVIEW

David, etnia barcelona has undergone some structural changes in recent years. How come?

After 18 years, we’ve made some structural changes to help us improve. We’re now the best-selling brand in optical stores in Europe, number two in France and number one in Quebec. We were able to reach this point through huge amounts of passion, hard work, effort, and by paying particular attention to our product and brand. However, we have also lacked organization at times, and this is what we’ve been trying to improve over the past couple of years. I am now happy to say that we are achieving results.

It seems like you are also more active personally in the company again. What exactly do you do?

I play as active a role as ever. My job, basically, is to constantly seek out solutions to problems. I’m the problem-solver (laughs)! But what I enjoy most of all is designing glasses. So, I pivot from one side to the other depending on what our priorities are at any given time.

And do you now have a lot of new design employees on your team? While the design department is the beating heart of our brand, every

department is equally important at etnia. Each one plays its part. With every new collection, our goal is to create the best shapes using the best colors. Our design department always has a lot to do; from researching

ETNIA BARCELONA »T he Wa tch e r O GG Y« -

coat STINE GOYA, dre ss BA&SH, st ock ings FALKE, sho e s PREMITA 205

INTERVIEW

colors, shapes, and graduations, to researching different requirements in each country. It now has a strong structure thanks to the major investment we have made in this department over the past year. Do these structural adjustments coincide with changes in the etnia barcelona philosophy?

What has changed is the size of the company. To give you an idea of what we’re talking about, there are now 450 of us selling over 1.3 million pairs of etnias

per year. With four offices in four different cities, two factories in two different countries, three logistics centers on three continents, a foundation, a flagship store, and so on… What has remained the same is the soul of the company, its values and the fact that chaos, in some respects, continues to reign (laughs). We love our rebel spirit, swimming against the tide and breaking the rules. Always expressing ourselves in the purest form. Art, color and culture inspire us, and we want to be the best eyewear brand in the world. How has this growth and recent investment affected your brand positioning and strategy?

We’re going to continue with our strategy of differentiation, above all when it comes to the quality of the product through mineral lenses, natural acetates and the like. But also, when it comes to design and sales.

What is different about the design process?

We now design glasses for different target consumers. Previously, we designed

ETNIA BARCELONA » A bb e y S u n W HO G «

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INTERVIEW

ETNIA BARCELONA »K i k a i G R W H « -

c oat SCOTCH&SODA

»Walo RDB K«

207

INTERVIEW

everything for everyone, but now we study the characteristics of our end consumers, their archetypes, tastes, and how to reach them. On the other hand, our sales strategy will be even more focused on the wholesale channel; in other words, on optical stores. These will be our priority. At the brand level, we don’t want to lose that special etnia barcelona touch that makes us a different, disruptive and rebellious

brand. Our method of communication will remain the same, but with a bigger megaphone in order to raise awareness. That sounds reassuring. What other news are you free to share with our readers? Are there any new campaigns or new collaborations in the works?

As you will see at Silmo, we have a new campaign: I’MPERFECT, based on people’s imperfections. We have chosen models whose bodies are unusual in some way in order to communicate how an imperfection has influenced their lives and made them unique individuals. This campaign uses powerful visuals and has a strong emotional message because it connects with reality and creates a perfect link to our next collaboration with someone who has a physical difference and revolutionized the world of music.

What are you looking forward to the most with the new etnia

barcelona approach?

Making excellent products. We want etnia barcelona to be a desirable brand. That means giving excellent service but above all, ensuring that our team feels proud to work at the company because this is directly reflected in the work they do.

Thanks for the interview, David.

ETNIA BARCELONA » Ha ll a WHC O« -

ja cke t & swe at er SCOTCH&SODA

208

L A B E L T O WAT C H

French Elegance In Puristic Frames p h oto RAPHAEL SCHMITZ Once upon a time, there was a woman who decided to shake up France’s opulent eyewear industry when she was just a teenager. Armed with large amounts of knowledge in the arts, phenomenal craftsmanship and the right amount of delicateness, she blazed her own trail with a new, revolutionary approach following her childhood dream. What sounds like the beginning of a fairy tale is really the story of Nathalie Blanc. Ever since releasing her avantgarde eyewear collection in 2015, the French

»A lf red«

designer has been crafting frames from high-grade materials that always flatter the wearer’s face. All frames are manufactured in France in a purist and modern form language. And this story continues with the latest nathalie blanc collection.

Two materials blended by a single form language, with an emphasis on round shapes. The reductionist aesthetic behind the delicate, unadorned metal frames is especially alive in the lightweight half-rim models that harmonize with their wearers in a subtle manner. In her acetate models, the designer surprises with extraordinary shapes. Also available in transparent pastel tones,

»L a u ra «

these masterfully crafted frames are the next chapter in the story of nathalie blanc – and certainly not the last.

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L A B E L T O WAT C H

N AT H A L I E B L A N C »E mm a«

»L e s l ie «

»E s t he r«

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COLLECTION SHOOT

Making Sustainability the ‘New Normal’ stills RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

When Italian eyewear powerhouse modo launches a new collection, the industry is watching closely. Especially when the new line is backed by an environment-driven approach across all levels of the product lifecycle: In the new eco line, recycled stainless steel and bio-based materials are molded into fashion-forward sunglasses and prescription styles. Plus, eco plants a tree for every frame sold – currently no less than 2 million trees and counting. For the release of eco’s FW19 collection, we speak to Giovanni Lo Faro, CEO at modo Eyewear about his brand’s unique commitment to sustainability.

“We plant a tree for every frame you buy. Over 2 million trees so far!”

ECO

»Ve rbie r«

»L ogan «

»Q u ebe c « 212

COLLECTION SHOOT

“Look good, feel good, do good.”

“Our frames are made with 95% recycled metal, a serious saving on natural resources.”

Hi Giovanni, why the new eco campaign slogan ‘now is a good time’?

Because eco is about living in the present and embracing small

choices to make a difference. Because consumers are now rather looking for brands with a purpose than a logo. With eco, we are empowering our customers to drive this change through their purchases. What is special about your new collection?

The design and the color palette express eco’s unique identity, while being wearable every day. We want our products to be earth-friendly and yet genuinely connected to real people out there.

Speaking of the color palette, is the collection rather loud or quiet?

We took inspiration from the countryside explorations, from the open spaces surrounding the city but also from the dynamic urban landscape. As a result, the new colors bring together these two souls through a warm, vibrant color palette.

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COLLECTION SHOOT

ECO

»Ve rbie r«

Technically speaking, what are some distinctive features in your frames?

Our use of materials and solutions is aimed at making the frames as light and comfy as possible. We implement innovative materials

Two in One: These magnetic sunglasses clip-ons snuggly fit the optical frame and are hardly noticeable.

like our bio-based plastic and integrated spring hinges to name a few. And more recently, we focus on the magnetic sun clip-on, which offers a seamless and smart way to turn your frame into polarized sunglasses. Your environment focus touches all aspects of the brand. What are some characteristics?

All products are sustainable, either 95% recycled metals or a plastic made from natural oil. Expanding the conversation to the packaging, we are thrilled to have found a replacement for the mono-use plastic bags for the frames. Considering that eco has

sold over two million pairs so far, this is a big saving! We are committed to continue researching new ways to reduce our footprint across the entire eco experience, from the product to packaging, communication, display materials, and one day hopefully even logistics.

“More than a brand, ECO is a state of mind.”

What has the response been like so far?

It is both instructive and engaging to receive so much input from opticians and end consumers, who are passionate about this topic and demand accountability. This shows clearly how a brand with a mission can animate its audience.

How is your mission reflected in your new campaign?

Our new campaign is part of a broad brand identity refresh this season. The key campaign message is about enjoying life with a hint of consciousness, positive attitude and good vibes.

Thanks for the interview, Giovanni. 214

lookocchiali.it

M AT E R I A L W O R L D

Transparency At Its Coolest In search of massive new eyewear trends for 2018/ 2019, one style has steadily been building momentum: Modern Crystal. Then again, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s less of a new phenomenon or invention by a modern-day designer, but a throwback to a stylistic format already implemented in bold crystal statement pieces by iconic label cazal. And guess what? Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s back!

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M AT E R I A L W O R L D

»6022«

» 6023«

It all started 30 years ago when visionary eyewear designer

p h ot o s EDA CALISTI

Cari Zalloni created cazal to revolutionize eyewear design. Sure, the company’s bold new styles were polarizing, but they also made the eyes of devoted fans light up with every release. Cari Zalloni designed real eye catchers charged with extraordinary style, which instantly garnered a cult following. What’s more, the glasses have retained their recognizable design DNA even today. Ever since the early

CAZAL

days, material choices such as acetate in black, translu-

»6 0 7 «

cent crystal and Havana-color allowed for crafting fullformed, three-dimensional frame styles. Combined with

Gray and black, metal and

gold or silver metal temples, cazal’s frames were ahead

glass, straight lines and

of their time in terms of stylistics and overall finish and have

curvatures – all in true cazal

been exhibited as hallmarks of great design in the Pinako-

style.

thek Modern History Museum in Munich, Germany. When it comes to cazal’s design language, bold colors have always played a fundamental role. As a result, some crystal models were released in transparent red, green, or blue. It was a bold experiment that found its audience: The limited editions have advanced to become coveted collector’s pieces since then. 217

M AT E R I A L W O R L D

CAZAL »959«

»224«

In 2019, cazal is back on its crystal style and will rerelease popular frames in colorways finished with a modern crystal aesthetic. These styles also include the standout icon among cazal frames: the cazal legend »607«. The undisputed classic was just released in the exclusive Iceblue colorway. And the numbered edition limited to 500 pieces truly lives up to its name as an ice-cold stunner. Are they for everybody to wear? Certainly not. But statement pieces from cazal have never been aimed at the mass market. They’re created for people who cherish their individuality. For those who, much like the brand itself, choose their own path and set their own trends. Even if Modern Crystal suddenly turns into the next big mass phenomenon.

» 8 50«

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dress BA&SH sweat er ALLUDE t u rt leneck CINQUE b oot s ESSENTIAL ANTWERP

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CROUCHING TIGER, HIDDEN DRAGON A STO RY BY HA NI BALL S ALI BA & JU LI EN BARBÉS [Berlin] phot os JULIEN BARBÉS assist ant NOÉ LELOU produ ct ion FABRIKA co ncept & st y ling HANIBALL SALIBA h a ir & m a ke -u p KATHARINA HANDEL at BASICS BERLIN MODELS m o d e ls FIWOO at VIVA MODELS & YIHUI at MODELWERK

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ARENA BERLIN

October 5â&#x20AC;&#x201D;6, 2019

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»320 « & » 2 2 7 5 «

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