Kauaʻi
KAUA‘I GUESTBOOK is part of a series of four books that Where® Hawai‘i will release on all the major Hawaiian Islands in 2019-2020, including O‘ahu, Maui and Hawai‘i Island. Each island will be represented with its own unique, iconic landscape image as the cover art. These books are designed to entertain and educate visitors about each respective island, and to tell the stories of Hawai‘i in an engaging
Oʻahu
Maui
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and artistic manner. We hope you enjoy the book as much as we took pleasure in writing about Hawai‘i’s Hawaiʻi
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Kauaʻi
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treasures, places and people.
ISLAND ESSENCE 08 DATEBOOK CALENDAR OF EVENTS There’s a lot to experience while visiting the island, from a Hawaiian cultural celebration to Kaua‘i’s “Ultimate Brunch.” BY SIMPLICIO PARAGAS
26 ANCIENT HISTORY A PORTAL TO THE PAST For all that has changed, Kaua‘i retains the unique sense of a place apart, separated by both the ocean and a unique mix of myth and history. BY ALLAN SEIDEN
20 SEAL OF APPROVAL ENDANGERED SPECIES NOAA scientists and a group of committed volunteers strive to protect one of the world’s rarest marine mammals. BY SIMPLICIO PARAGAS
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ON THE COVER The Nāpali Coast is known for its towering seacliffs and cascading waterfalls, which are embellished with dramatic sea caves and sweeping verdant valleys. ©George Karbus Photography/Superstock
©DUDAREV MIKHAIL/SHUTTERSTOCK; ©HAWAII LEGACY ARCHIVE; ©BIEDERBICK&RUMPF/MEDIABAKERY
KAUA‘I CONTENTS
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ISLAND ESSENTIALS 10 FIRST LOOK KAUA‘I’S ATTRACTIONS NĀPALI COAST: The 15-mile-long
rugged coastline is a true wonder. KŌKE‘E STATE PARK: Enjoy the ocean views and native wildlife. KĪLAUEA POINT: The Wildlife Refuge is a shelter for seabirds.
WAILUA RIVER AND FERN GROTTO:
Enjoy a tranquil boat cruise up the Wailua River to Fern Grotto. KAUA‘I MUSEUM: Take in exhibits on the history of Kaua‘i HANAPĒPĒ: “Kauai’s biggest little town” is a portal to the past. BEACHES: Stretches of white sand. KILOHANA PLANTATION: Go on a train ride through orchards. WAIMEA CANYON: Hawai‘i’s own “Grand Canyon.”
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34 ISLAND VIEWS KAUA‘I’S REGIONS No two parts of Kaua‘i are alike. PO‘IPŪ: The beaches here rank among the best in the nation. WAI‘ALE’ALE CRATER: Its name translates to “rippling water.” LĪHU‘E: This is the government and commercial center of the island. COCONUT COAST: Comprised of the town Kapa‘a and Wailua. HANALEI: This North Shore area is graced with natural beauty. KĪLAUEA: This quaint, charming town is located on the scenic North Shore. KALĀHEO: Make a point to visit the National Tropical Botanical Garden.
48 PARTING SHOT SUNSET SESSION Stand-up paddle boarding is an invigorating and satisfying way to watch the sunset.
SPECIAL SECTION DINING IN PARADISE Learn about the cultural significance behind Hawaiian sea salt. Kaua‘i chefs source their fish from local fishermen.
©TOR JOHNSON/HAWAII TOURISM AUTHORITY (HTA); ©TOBIAS PECIVA/ALAMY; ©FOTOFEELING/MEDIABAKERY
KAUA‘I CONTENTS
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KAUA‘I GUESTBOOK, SALES OFFICE 677 Ala Moana Blvd., Suite 700, Honolulu, HI 96813 Phone: 808-955-2378; Fax: 808-955-2379 www.wheretraveler.com WhereTraveler® GuestBook is produced by Morris Visitor Publications (MVP), a division of Morris Communications, Co., LLC. 725 Broad St., Augusta, GA 30901, morrismedianetwork.com. WhereTraveler® magazine and the WhereTraveler® logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications. MVP publishes WhereTraveler® magazine, WhereTraveler® QuickGuide, IN New York, and IN London magazines, and a host of other maps, guides, and directories for business and leisure travelers, and is the publisher for the Hospitality Industry Association. WhereTraveler® GuestBook® publishes editions for the following U.S. cities and regions: Arizona, Atlanta, Boston, Charlotte, Chicago, Colorado, Dallas/Fort Worth, Florida Gold Coast (Fort Lauderdale & Palm Beach), Island of Hawai‘i, Houston, Jacksonville/St. Augustine/Amelia Island, Kansas City, Kaua‘i, Los Angeles, Maui, Miami, Nashville, New Orleans, New York, Northern Arizona, O‘ahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Reno/Lake Tahoe, San Antonio, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle/The Eastside/Tacoma, Southwest Florida (Naples), Tampa Bay, Tucson, Washington D.C. ©2020 by Morris Visitor Publications. All rights reserved. This publication may not be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, in whole or in part, without the express prior written permission of the publisher. The publisher assumes no responsibility to any party for the content of any advertisement in this publication, including any errors and omissions therein. By placing an order for an advertisement, the advertiser agrees to indemnify the publisher against any claims relating to the advertisement. Printed in the United States of America. On Kaua‘i, WhereTraveler® GuestBook is pleased to be a member of the following associations. MVP IS A PROUD SPONSOR OF LES CLEFS D’OR USA
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DATEBOOK TOWN AND COUNTRY
TALENTED DIVA
The small yet proud town of Waimea has
This show will provide fans and first-timers, a
been putting the word “unity” in “com-
truly unique evening of entertainment in the
munity” for more than four decades. This
company of a true legend and guarantees
year, enjoy a nine-day celebration at various
to bring the audience to their feet. England’s
locations in Waimea. The events will feature
funniest redhead, La Voix returns to Kaua‘i.
live entertainment, sporting events, food, a
Sir Ian McKellen says “La Voix’s impersonations
beer garden and game booths. Named as
are surpassed only by her own cheekily
one of the dozen distinctive destinations by
entertaining personality.” Advance ticket
the National Trust for Historic Preservation,
purchases are highly recommended.
Waimea Town offers a portal to the past.
April 11, Līhu‘e, kauai-concert.org
February 15-23, Waimea Town
SONG AND DANCE PRINCE OF TIDES
Named after the rare anise-scented berry
In honor of Kaua‘i-born Prince Kūhīo, known
unique to Kaua‘i, the Mokihana Festival
as “The People’s Prince,” the 10th Annual
travels across the island in a celebration
Anahola Prince Kūhīo Day Celebration show-
of Native Hawaiian arts and crafts.
cases cultural and educational activities,
Competitions in Hawaiian instrument mak-
demonstrations, and health and wellness
ing, music composition and dance engage
exhibits. The event reaffirms the leadership,
people of all ages. This Kaua’i signature festi-
stewardship and vision of Prince Kūhīo,
val ends with a three-day hula competition.
and his legacy in perpetuating the growth
September, maliefoundation.org
of healthy Hawaiian community on ‘aina ho’opulapula (homesteads land).
RUNNERS GET SET
Mid-March, Anahola
The Kaua‘i Marathon and Half Marathon start
FLORAL PARADE
first 11 miles. As dawn breaks, runners pass
While it may be an invasive plant for some,
by lush green vistas as they approach the
it’s a reason to celebrate for others. Held
shade of the century-old Tunnel of Trees
early summer on Memorial Day Sunday in
before winding through misty ‘Oma‘o where
Kanaloahuluhulu Meadow, the Banana Poka
the half marathoners enter Kukui’ula Resort
Festival weaves the roots of the invasive
for the last few miles. The full marathon
plants into useful baskets. The event features
heads out to Lāwa’i before returning to
live music, exhibits by organizations and
Po‘ipū Beach.
agencies that work to save the environment,
September 6, thekauaimarathon.com
along with lots of activities for children. May 25, Kōke‘e State Park, kokee.org
IN CELEBRATION OF KING KAMEHAMEHA I
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With all the pomp and circumstance befitting of royalty, this colorful floral parade features a procession of regal horses and their beautiful pa‘u riders, each representing one of the eight islands. The parade begins at Vidinha Stadium near the airport and travels along Rice Street to the County’s Historical Building Lawn, where there will be entertainment, crafts, demonstrations and an array of food. The parade starts at 9 a.m. Kamehameha Day was created to honor the memory of Kamehameha the Great, who united the Hawaiian Islands in 1810.
BOUNTIFUL BRUNCH
Early June, Līhu‘e
Early June, Smith’s Tropical Paradise
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Considered the “Ultimate Brunch,” the Rotary Club of Kapa’a’s Taste of Hawai’i is a gourmet event that has grown into the premier culinary event on Kaua‘i. More than 25 chefs from around the state gather to provide attendees with a tasting extravaganza that is second to none.
(FROM TOP) ©BRUCE C. MURRAY/SHUTTERSTOCK; COURTESY LA VOIX
in Po‘ipū, and share the same route for the
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FIRST LOOK
©MARIDAV/SHUTTERSTOCK
From pristine beaches to mountain trails, to the only navigable rivers in Hawai‘i, complete with cascading waterfalls, the beauty of Kaua‘i is legendary.
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Nāpali Coast
One of the most recognizable and beautiful coastlines in the world, Nāpali Coast’s razor-sharp sea cliffs scale to heights of up to 4,000 feet, and fluted valleys descend abruptly into the ocean below. It’s one of the most isolated areas in Hawai‘i, with sea caves, a zigzag shoreline, waterfalls and hidden valleys. Streams pour into the ocean from hanging valleys. The cliffs are best seen aboard a boat or kayak, or experienced via a snorkeling expedition or on any of the island’s helicopter tours.
FIRST LOOK
Kōke‘e State Park
Located north of Waimea Canyon on Kaua‘i’s west side, Kōke‘e State Park stretches across 4,345 acres on a plateau that is 3,200 to 4,200 feet above sea level. Covered in dense forest, wild flowers and hiking trails, the park is an excellent spot to enjoy native plants and spot such colorful endemic Hawaiian forest birds as the ‘āpapane, ‘iwi and moa. The park also offers roughly 45 miles of the state’s finest hiking trails. Some trails lead to views of Waimea Canyon, others wind through wet forests with sweeping views of valleys opening up to the North Shore.
The dramatic backdrop of steep cliffs plunging to the ocean is one of the best places across the Hawaiian Islands to view wildlife. Perched upon Kaua‘i’s northernmost point, the lighthouse at Kīlauea Point National Wildlife Refuge once guided merchant ships crossing the ocean from Asia. Built in 1913, it was fitted with the largest lens of its time, and is now one of the island’s most scenic and popular destinations. The steep bluffs surrounding the lighthouse are a haven for albatrosses and nesting nēnē (Hawai‘i’s state bird), and during winter months humpback whales can be spotted breaching right offshore. At the end of Kīlauea Road. For more information, call 808.828.1413 12
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Kīlauea Point National Wildlife Refuge
(COUNTER CLOCKWISE FROM TOP) ©TOR JOHNSON/HAWAII TOURISM AUTHORITY (HTA) (2); ©STEVE HEAP/SHUTTESTOCK
Waialua River and Fern Grotto
Flowing from the crater of Mount Wai‘ale‘ale, the Wailua River is sacred to Native Hawaiians and it was once kapu (taboo) for anyone except for royalty to enter. Nowadays, the river can be explored by kayak or via a cruise aboard an open-air boat. Most boat excursions end at Fern Grotto, which is known as the most romantic spot on the island. This natural lava-rock grotto is lush with hanging ferns and tropical foliage, cooled by the mists of a waterfall.
Kaua‘i Museum
The historic museum houses a collection of art, which reflects the heritage and artistic achievements of the indigenous and immigrant peoples of Kaua‘i and Ni‘ihau. In the museum, you will see portraits of such Hawaiian royalty as Kaumuali‘i, the last independent ali‘i nui (supreme ruler of the island) of Kaua‘i and Ni‘ihau. Visitors can also enjoy handmade wooden bowls, textiles and bright feather cloaks. 4428 Rice St., Līhu‘e, 808.245.6931, kauaimuseum.org
Hanapēpē
In the time that it takes to say Hanapēpē, you may have already missed what’s affectionately known as the “Biggest Little Town on Kaua‘i.” For this little dot on the south side of Kaua‘i, “big” is a relative term: the part of Hanapēpē Road that goes through the heart of town is just two blocks long, and none of the buildings there stands more than two stories high. It’s a quaint picture from the past—the rustic, sleepy kind of place that was once Kaua‘i. Hanapēpē means “crushed bay” in Hawaiian, probably in reference to the piles of rocks bordering nearby Hanapēpē Bay. Every Friday, Hanapēpē’ Art Night takes place from 6 to 9 p.m. Amble along the half-mile stretch of shops and galleries, and mingle with local artists, musicians, photographers, painters, sculptors and craftsmen. WHERET RAV EL ER ® G UEST B OOK
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FIRST LOOK
Beaches
Like its mountains, Kaua‘i’s beaches are dramatic and diverse. Perhaps the most notable is Hanalei Bay with its sweeping curve of white sand enveloped by mountains that are often laced with waterfalls. At the end of Highway 56, where the Nāpali Coast begins, the waters off Kē‘ē Beach teem with fish and corals that dazzle snorkelers and beachgoers alike. Kē‘ē’s south shore counterpart, Po‘ipū Beach, is known for its idyllic swimming and snorkeling, and in Hanapēpē, Salt Pond Beach Park is calm and popular throughout the year.
Dating back to 1896, this plantation estate has been meticulously restored. Sugar baron Gaylord Parke Wilcox, once the head of Grove Farm, built the 16,000 square-foot, Tudor-style mansion in 1935. The antique-filled rooms and Oriental carpets laid over hardwood floors lead you past cases of poi pounders, koa bowls and other pieces of Hawaiiana. Once the center of a 27,000-acre sugar plantation and the hub of Kaua‘i business, cultural and social life, the 35-acre estate now features tropical gardens, an old plantation village, as well as the classic Kaua‘i Plantation Railway. Call 808.245.5608 for more information. 14
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©TOR JOHNSON/HTA (2)
Kilohana Plantation
Waimea Canyon
Hailed as “The Grand Canyon of the Pacific,” this geological wonder stretches 14 miles long, one mile wide and more than 3,600 feet deep. The main road, Waimea Canyon Drive, leads to a lower lookout point and the main Waimea Canyon Overlook, which offers unobstructed views of Kauai’s dramatic interior. Call 808.245.6001 for weather information. 16
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FIRST LOOK
KAUAI VACATION BUCKET LIST Fire Show Shave Ice Hawaiian Botanical Garden Mini Golf Farmers Market Live Local Music Wai Koa Loop Trail Head Playground
North Shore’s family fun and entertainment destination!
5-2723 Kuhio Hwy, Kilauea, HI 96754 (808) 828-2118 | anainahou.org @anainahou /anainahou
› Kayak Adventures ‹ › Ancient River Kayak ‹ › Rainbow Kayak Tours ‹ Kayak 2 miles along the tropical waterways of the Wailua River. Hike 1 mile through a lush forest. Learn Hawaiian history, flora & fauna. Enjoy lunch & experience a secluded 120 ft waterfall.
W W W. K AUAIK AYAK TOUR . COM 808-826-2505 / toll free 1-866-826-2505 Insta
SEAL OF APPROVAL NOAA scientists and volunteers strive to protect one of the world’s rarest marine mammal
(THIS PAGE) ©KOA MATSUOKA; (OPPOSITE PAGE) ©DAVE FLEETHAM/MEDIABAKERY
BY SIMPLICIO PARAGAS
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(This page) Hawaiian monk seals are endemic to the Hawaiian archipelago. (Opposite page) Pups weigh only 25 to 35 pounds but will become 400- to 600-pound adults.
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(This page) Female monk seals give birth to one pup on land during the spring or summer. (Opposite page) NOAA advises to keep a distance of 150 feet so as not to disturb the monk seal.
(OPPOSITE PAGE) ©DUDAREV MIKHAIL/SHUTTERSTOCK
stretches beyond just the small population size of seals. Decades of population health monitoring indicate that monk seals do not carry antibodies against morbillivirus in their blood, so their immune systems are unlikely to protect them from contracting the disease. While proactive measures, such as vaccinations, can reduce the risk of a decreasing population, Hawaiian monk seal recovery still faces many challenges that will require additional resources and commitment. In NOAA Fisheries’ Speices in the Spotlight five-year Priority Action Plan, the National Marine Fisheries Service (NMFS) identified the Hawaiian monk seal as one of eight species that was among the most at-risk of extinction. “Recovering a species on the brink of extinction is not an easy task, especially factoring in the logistics of working across an expansive and remote archipelago spanning thousands of miles,” the report’s authors note. “Biologists must be present in those remote areas to intervene and save seals’ lives, as well as to research and monitor the population. The growth of a small population of monk seals in the
(THIS PAGE) ©NATURE PICTURE LIBRARY/ALAMY
Ewa Girl likes to cruise the west side of the island. Benny is a promiscuous strapping male. And Rocky likes to hang around the fringes of Kaua‘i. These three monk seals are among the rarest marine mammals in the world. Isolated from their closest relative 15 million years ago, Hawaiian monk seals are considered a “living fossil” because o f their distinct evolutionary lineage. “Their decline is stabilizing but we can’t be complacent,” says veternarian Michelle Barbieri, the lead scientist for the Hawaiian Monk Seal Research Program for the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA). “For decades, there has been great concern about their declining numbers but over the past 15-20 years, we have seen them repopulate around the main Hawaiian islands.” With a life span of between 25 and 30 years, the ‘īlioholo-i-kauaua (in Hawaiian, “dog that runs in rough water”) belongs to the “true seal” family (Phocidae), of which there is only one other similar genus in the world—the Mediterranean monk seal. A third monk seal species—the Caribbean monk seal—has long been extinct, a fate that NOAA scientists and volunteers are vigorously working to avoid in Hawai‘i. “It has been a long process but we started a morbillivirus vaccination program that no one has ever attempted with marine mammals,” Barbieri asserts. “We’ve managed to vaccinate between a third and a half of the population in the main Hawaiian Islands and in the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands (NWHI).” If left unchecked, the morbillivirus can potentially enter the Hawaiian marine system and become widespread with outbreaks of the disease leading to devastating losses of marine life. According to NOAA scientists, most people are familiar with morbilliviruses already: this virus family includes measles, against which children are routinely immunized; and distemper, which is part of a core vaccination series for pet dogs. For the monk seal, morbillivirus can be lethal. According to a NOAA report, concerns for monk seal disease risk
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(OPPOSITE PAGE) ©MASA USHIODA/MEDIABAKERY
(THIS PAGE) ©MARK SULLIVAN, NOAA FISHERIES HAWAIIAN MONK SEAL.
(This page) Monk seals and green sea turtles are considered “part of the identity of the islands” and thus hold a special place in the minds and hearts of the people of Hawai‘i. (Opposite page) An adult monk seal can measure up to 7.5 feet.
main Hawaiian Islands, while encouraging, has also meant increasing numbers of interactions with fisheries and other ocean users.” The report also points out that monk seals have also been victims of intentional killings, and the deaths of these seals, including a pregnant female, jeopardize recovery and are a clarion call for enhanced local community engagement in the conservation and recovery of this endemic Hawaiian marine mammal. To combat misinformation and misconceptions, NMFS officials are actively engaging local stakeholders and working with communities to build capacity, ownership, knowledge and trust. They believe that through strong partnerships they can develop effective solutions to the challenges of monk seal recovery. Meanwhile, there is some good news. NOAA recently completed the 2017 population census for seals across the archipelago and according to Dr. Charles Littnan, head of the Protected Species Division (which includes the Hawaiian Monk Seal Research Program) things look positive. “There were 161 pups counted in the Northwestern
Hawaiian Islands and 34 in the main Hawaiian Islands (including everyone’s favorite famous pup, “Kaimana”),” he says in a released statement. “While recent population growth offers encouraging signs that strong conservation efforts can lead to progress, the monk seal population remains just over one-third of historic (1950s) levels.” This increase in survival, particularly for juveniles, is critical for the recovery of the species. On Kaua‘i, three baby pups were born earlier in 2016, buoying hopes that the uptick in population will successfully continue into the future. “Too many young seals were dying, which meant too few females were growing up to be mothers,” Littnan explains. “The species was in a downward spiral. Over the last few years we have seen juvenile survival jump pretty dramatically, giving hope for the future.” One of the most exciting outcomes of the complete census of the island chain is a new total population estimate for Hawai’i’s native seal. Past estimates relied on separate counts from the NWHI and the main Hawaiian Islands and omitted a few key subpopulations. For the first time ever, the monk seal program has estimated the entire population of seals, which is approximately 1,400 across the archipelago. “It’s immensely satisfying to see them repopulate,” Barbieri says. “With a lot of effort by our field teams and volunteers, we’re making progress in protecting the world’s only tropical seal. This is a very hands-on program and about 25 percent to 30 percent of the population is alive because of the help and pre-emptive intervention that we’ve taken to ensure the Hawaiian monk seal’s survival.” Though they look friendly, the Hawaiian monk seal would rather be watched from a distance. They are unlike their cousins in the pinniped classification group, as they rarely travel together, preferring to live a life of solitude, like a monk (one of the reasons they are thought to have that name). “They may be cute but they’re wild animals and they do bite,” Barbieri warns. “They are federally protected under the Endangered Species Act, and the law requires that onlookers remain at a safe distance of at least 100 feet.” WHERET RAV EL ER ® G UEST B OOK
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KAUA‘I A PLACE ALL ITS OWN The “Garden Isle” is steeped in history and rich in mythology BY ALLAN SEIDEN
There was a time, perhaps four or five million years ago, when Kaua‘i was a much larger island, its volcanic Mount Wai‘ale‘ale more than twice as tall as it is today. Eventually, disconnected from the magma reservoir that fed Wai‘ale‘ale, the island’s weight has forced it to sink into the seabed, while millions of years of sun, wind and storms have eroded Wai‘ale‘ale’s volcanic slopes, creating the grandeur that is Kaua‘i today. Tectonic drift has isolated Kaua‘i from its sister Islands, invisible even from O‘ahu, the closest of the main Islands, which lies 70 miles to the east. Only Ni‘ihau and a few surrounding islets are visible from Kaua‘i, fragments of a once larger island. Beyond are the rocky pinnacles and atolls that stretch 1,200 miles to the west.
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PHOTO CREDIT GOTHAM BOOK 5.5/9PT
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in 1810, when Kaua‘i’s King Kaumuali‘i declared himself Kamehameha’s vassal, naming him as his heir, thus disinheriting his son, George Humehume. Humehume had spent most of his life away from Kaua‘i, having been placed in the care of American sea captain James Rowan who, in exchange for a cargo of sandalwood, took the 5-year-old boy aboard, introducing him to the outside world on a year-and-a-half-long voyage that ended in Providence, Rhode Island, in 1805. Humehume, calling himself George Prince, received a missionary education before enlisting in the U.S. Marine Corps, fighting in the War of 1812, where he was wounded and discharged. Joining the Navy in 1815, he served
(Previous spread) Kaua‘i is known for its stunning topography. (This page) Western contact first occurred in 1778. (Opposite page) Kaua‘i’s King Kaumuali‘i stands to protect the shores.
(PREVIOUS SPREAD) ©DENNIS FRATES/ALAMY; (THIS PAGE) ©HAWAIIAN LEGACY ARCHIVE
When Kamehameha created the Hawaiian kingdom in 1795, only Kaua‘i remained beyond his grasp. Two plans to attack Kaua‘i had failed. The first, launched from O‘ahu in 1796, was forced back by a storm that caused losses of men, canoes and supplies. Kamehameha returned to Kailua-Kona, where he remained for six years. Heading back to O‘ahu en route to Kaua‘i in 1803, he arrived just as an epidemic of either cholera or typhoid fever broke out, again decimating his forces, the king also falling ill, but recovering, with the planned attack on Kaua‘i once again cancelled. Although Kamehameha would never again mount an offensive against Kaua‘i, the island would be offered to him
©HAWAIIAN LEGACY ARCHIVE
in the Mediterranean. Now, at 21, he was ready to return to Kaua‘i, the island kingdom he expected to rule. Things had dramatically changed on Kaua‘i since Humehume’s departure in 1804. The first upheaval began in 1815, following the arrival of Georg Scheffer, a Bavarian-born surgeon in the employ of the Russian-America Company. Befriending Kamehameha after curing him of a fever, Scheffer aroused the distrust of chiefs who suspected his motives. Their suspicions proved well founded when Scheffer departed O‘ahu early in 1816, setting sail for Kaua‘i with three ships and a plan to preserve Kaua‘i’s independence by placing the island under the protection of the Russian Czar.
Kaumuali‘i accepted, seeing Scheffer’s offer as a reprieve from the surrender of his kingdom to Kamehameha. Preparing for a military response from Kamehameha, Scheffer had fortifications built on a hill overlooking Waimea’s south coast waters, and on a North Shore hillside overlooking Hanalei. Kaumuali‘i, growing uncertain of Scheffer’s intentions, withdrew his support. With Kamehameha’s forces en route, Scheffer departed in 1817. Kaumuali‘i was exiled to O‘ahu and forced to marry the Queen Regent, Ka‘ahumanu. Humehume returned to Kaua‘i in 1820, securing a place on the brig Thaddeus, after it disembarked the First Company of U.S. missionaries in Honolulu, continuing on to Kaua‘i with two missionary couples. Biding his time as he adjusted to a culture no longer familiar to him, Humehume married and had several children. When Kaumuali‘i died in 1824, Humehume unsuccessfully sought to rally support to his cause as rightful heir. He was easily defeated by the troops sent to quell the rebellion. Exiled to O‘ahu, Humehume died in 1825 in an influenza epidemic. Kaua‘i’s story as a place apart begins with tales of the menehune. Elfin in size, but master builders, prodigious of strength and speed, they were credited with construction on a grand scale. It is on Kaua‘i that tales of menehune are widely told, perhaps a link to a time 16 or 17 centuries ago when the first settlers to Kaua‘i arrived from the Marquesas, a chain of islands about 2,000 miles southeast of Hawai‘i . Several centuries later, the Marquesans were followed by Polynesians from the islands of Ra‘iatea and Bora Bora in the Tahitian archipelago. The Marquesan Hawaiians were subjugated by the larger, more numerous Tahitians. The Tahitian word for a slave is manehune so it’s easy to make the transition to menehune. Mythic history also links Kaua‘i to the volcano goddess Pele and her love for the handsome Kaua‘i ali‘i (chief ), Lohiau, whom she met while visiting Kaua‘i as she searched the Islands for a congenial home. It was while she was on Kaua‘i that the hula was first danced, performed at Pele’s request by her younger sister Hi‘iaka, whose dances told of Pele’s tempestuous life and her love for Lohiau. A hālau hula (hula school), just uphill of the beach at Ha‘ena, focused on training dancers in the sacred hula. WHERET RAV EL ER ® G UEST B OOK
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By the time the first missionaries reached Kaua‘i in 1820, much had already changed. However, they were not the first outsiders to reach Kaua‘i. That honor goes to British Captain James Cook, who made his first Hawaiian landfall in 1778, coming ashore at Waimea, on Kauai’s south coast, accompanied by the ship’s artist John Weber who recorded life on Kaua‘i as it was then. The impact of the trade vessels and whaling ships that followed began to quickly impact the traditional lifestyle, but even greater impact would follow the arrival of the first missionaries aboard the same ship that brought Humehume back to his island home. While Kamehameha had been able to maintain the ways of old, that system collapsed within six months of his death in 1819. The arriving missionaries found themselves poised to replace the gods of old with New England-style Christianity, their schools providing a bridge to the ways of the outside world. The first mission was established in Waimea, a steepled church soon rising above the surrounding thatched hale (houses). The larger Wai‘oli Mission (Hawai‘i’s best preserved mission and an historic attraction along with the adjacent missionary home) was established at Hanalei in 30
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1834, with a third mission established at Kōloa in 1842. Missionary schools educated many children, preparing them for a future very different from that of their parents. That future would focus on plantation-grown sugar and the selfcontained lifestyle it created. With plentiful fresh water and deep, rich soil, it’s not surprising that Hawai‘i’s first successful sugar plantation would be on Kaua‘i. In 1835, Kamehameha III, seeking new revenues for his modernizing kingdom, approved a lease for the Kōloa Plantation, its 980 acres leased for $300 per year to Honolulu-based Ladd & Company. A new era that would last more than a century and a half had emerged. By 1900, Kaua‘i was home to eight large sugar plantations, tens of thousands of thirsty acres planted from Kekaha in the west to Kōloa in the south, Līhu‘e in the east to Kīlauea in the north. Growing cane provided the island with landscaped beauty but that, too, is now history. While the beauty remains, the last of Kaua‘i’s plantations closed in 2009. Sugarcane and the plantation lifestyle that had nurtured generations drew to a close as the 21st century began. Yet for all that has changed, Kaua‘i retains the unique sense of a place apart, separated by both the ocean and a unique mix of myth and history.
the first missionaries reached Kaua‘i in 1820, much had already changed. However, they were not the first outsiders to reach Kaua‘i. That honor goes to British Captain James Cook.
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By the time
(This page) Spanning across a total area of 562 square miles, Kaua‘i is known for its jagged cliffs and rugged coastline. (Opposite page) The Wai‘oli Mission House was the home of early Christian missionaries Abner and Lucy Wilcox.
ISLAND VIEWS
©BOB POOL/SHUTTERSTOCK
The oldest in the Hawaiian archipelago, Kaua‘i features emerald valleys and cascading waterfalls.
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Po‘ipū
This is the island’s shrine to sun worshipping, even for monk seals. Many of the island’s hotels, vacation condominiums, resorts, upscale restaurants and bars are located in Po‘ipū. Prince Kūhiō and Brennecke beaches have some of the best swimming and body surfing. The beautifully landscaped Allerton Garden in Lāwa‘i Valley, the former summer home of Queen Emma (wife of King Kamehameha IV), is a force of nature.
ISLAND VIEWS
Its name meaning “overflowing water,” Wai‘ale‘ale Crater is known for its mesmerizing sights and the grandiose gestures of its waterfalls. More than just mere remnants of a shield volcano, the crater stands at 5,148 feet tall and averages more than 426 inches of rain per year, making its summit one of the wettest spots on earth. If the weather permits, the heart of the extinct volcano can be explored via helicopter.
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Wai‘ale‘ale Crater
Līhu‘e
Translated in English, Līhu‘e means “cold chill” and is located in the ancient district of Puna, the southeastern coast of the island. With the emergence of the sugar industry in the 1800s, Līhu‘e became the central city of the island. Today, it’s still the hub of government and commercial activity. It’s also home to Kaua‘i Museum, Kilohana Plantation Estate and the ‘Alekoko Fish Pond (above), a more than 1,000-year-old archeological site.
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Coconut Coast
Coconut palms are abundant in the “Coconut Coast,” the most populated district of Kaua‘i. Resorts are sprinkled along the shoreline, and the prevailing view is of Nounou, a mountain also called the “Sleeping Giant.” This eastern region of the island is a mix of residences, shops and restaurants in discreet clusters along a rocky shoreline of subdued but fierce beauty. Kapa‘a, a plantation hub in the 19th century, is now a quaint town.
(FROM LEFT)©STEVE HEAP/SHUTTERSTOCK; ©KEVIN CLARK/ALAMY
ISLAND VIEWS
Poipu Bay Golf Course
P
oipu Bay Golf Course’s 210 oceanfront acres meander along rugged coastline, featuring spectacular vistas and cooling trade winds that will test all levels of play and yet fun for novices as well. Host of the PGA Grand Slam of golf from 1994—2006, Poipu Bay features an award-winning golf shop. Adjacent to the course is the Grand Hyatt Resort & Spa.
808-742-8711 | www.poipubaygolf.com
ISLAND VIEWS
The pleasing drive to the North Shore winds along pastures and through small towns, and then to a lookout over a valley lined with taro. This is Hanalei, with its fabled mountains, waterfalls and onelane bridges, a town immortalized in film and song. With galleries, restaurants and natural beauty, Hanalei is a haven for artists and rock stars, surfers and nature lovers. A picturesque pier and curve of white sand mark Hanalei Bay.
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Hanalei
WAILUA KAYAK ADVENTURE Travel with Wailua Kayak Adventure down the Wailua River, the “River of Dreams.” Let Wailua Kayak Adventure take you exploring the ancient pathway of the gods into the valley of the Royal Ali‘i. Travel at your own pace while your guide fills you in on the historical and religious significance of this spectacular river valley. Paddle its glassy waters between flower-enshrouded banks, with Mt. Wai‘ale‘ale rising beyond in all its magnificence. Journey into the ancient rain forest where they tie up and begin a jungle trek along a pristine mountain stream, explore ruins and terraces, and swim below a 120-foot waterfall. Plenty of organic snacks are provided. Ask about half-price specials. We also rent kayaks, Sups and Surfboards. 1347 Ulu Street, Kapaa Hi. 96746
Tours Call 808.639.6332 Rentals Call 808.320.0680 Email: sacredriver@hawaiian.net wailuakayakadventure.com
Kīlauea
Once a company town for sugar plantation workers, Kīlauea’s fieldstone buildings are reminiscent of the area’s agricultural history. Today, the northeastern town is an intimate community, home to scenic landmarks and golden sandy beaches. Located 200-feet above sea level, the Daniel K. Inouye Kīlauea Point Lighthouse—named after Hawai‘i’s late senior senator—was built on Kaua‘i’s northernmost point, on a steep 500-foot bluff.
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Kalāheo
This small southwestern town is located between Līhu‘e and Hanapēpē and was once a settlement for sugar plantation workers. Today, sugar production has yielded to coffee cultivation, where more than four million coffee trees are grown across 4,000 acres, making Kaua‘i the largest coffee plantation in the United States. Nearby attractions include the Lāwa‘i Interntional Center (pictured above) and Kukuiolono Golf Course and Park.
(FROM LEFT) ©SHANE MYERS PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK; COURTESY LAWAII INTERNATIONAL CENTER
ISLAND VIEWS
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Sunset Session HE KEIKI KĀLAI HOE NA KA UKA O PU‘UKAPELE. THIS HAWAIIAN PROVERB TRANSLATES TO “A PADDLEMAKING YOUTH OF PU‘UKAPELE.” IT’S A COMPLIMENTARY EXPRESSION, WHICH MEANS HE WHO LIVES IN THE UPLANDS CAN MAKE GOOD PADDLES. PU‘UKAPELE IS A PLACE ABOVE WAIMEA CANYON.
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PARTING SHOT
THE GUIDE TO LOCAL CUISINE
IN PARADISE
Kauai
SEA SALT
FRESH CATCH
A Hawaiian gourmet ingredient
Chefs source seafood from local fishermen
‘
2020
PROMOTION
DINING
GOURMET RETREAT Oasis on the Beach showcases the best of what Kauaʻi’s has to offer
DINING IN PARADISE CONTENTS
KAUA‘I G U E S T B O O K®
MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS EDITORIAL & DESIGN MVP I EDITORIAL & DESIGN EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Margaret Martin
MANAGING EDITOR Jennifer McKee SENIOR EDITOR Simplicio Paragas
Gina J. Bailey Jennifer Keller Vaz ART DIRECTOR Veronica Montesdeoca PHOTO EDITOR Vincent Hobbs CONTRIBUTING EDITOR
CREATIVE DIRECTOR
MVP I EXECUTIVE PRESIDENT Donna W. Kessler
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VICE PRESIDENT, OPERATIONS Angela E. Allen
DIRECTOR OF DIGITAL OPERATIONS Jamie Turner DIRECTOR OF CIRCULATION Scott Ferguson
D8 SALT OF THE EARTH INDIGENOUS INGREDIENT Traditional Hawaiian sea salt is produced in salt flats on the western side of Kaua‘i. BY SIMPLICIO PARAGAS
D12 HOOKED ON LOCAL FISH HAWA‘I’S FAVORITE SEAFOOD Local chefs use a variety of locally caught fish, from ‘ahi to ‘ōpakapaka. BY SIMPLICIO PARAGAS
D18 DINING GUIDE ISLAND CHEFS OFFER DIVERSE FLAVORS, FROM HAWAI‘I REGIONAL TO JAPANESE.
THE GUIDE TO LOCAL CUISINE
©ISAAC ARJONILLA
IN PARADISE
‘ Kauai
SEA SALT
DINING GUIDE
A Hawaiian gourmet ingredient
Kaua’I’s dining scene offers many options
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ON THE COVER
PROMOTION
DINING
GOURMET RETREAT Oasis on the Beach showcases the best of what Kauaʻi’s has to offer
10/29/19 12:10 PM
In addition to fresh island fish, Oasis on the Beach sources other ingredients from local farmers and producers. Its meat also comes from such Kaua‘i-based ranchers as Makaweli Ranch. ©Mark “Woogie” Kracht
CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER – CUSTOM PUBLICATIONS Haines Wilkerson
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677 Ala Moana Blvd., Ste. 700 Honolulu, HI 96813 Phone: 808-955-2378; Fax: 808-955-2379 www.wheretraveler.com DINING IN PARADISE® is produced by Where®Hawaii, a division of Morris Communications, Co., LLC. 725 Broad St., Augusta, GA 30901. Where® magazine and the where® logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications. MVP publishes Where magazine, Where® QuickGuide, IN New York, and IN London magazines, and a host of other maps, guides, and directories for business and leisure travelers, and is the publisher for the Hospitality Industry Association. On Kaua‘i, DINING IN PARADISE is pleased to be a member of these following associations: MVP IS A PROUD SPONSOR OF LES CLEFS D’OR USA
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SALT OF THE EARTH Hawaiian sea salt is linked to cultural tradition and healthy living BY SIMPLICIO PARAGAS
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(PREVIOUS SPREAD) ©ANNA HOYCHUK/SHUTTERSTOCK; (THIS PAGE) ©SEA SALTS OF HAWAII
Cupping his hands as if he was holding grains of salt and raising them close to his nose, chef Norman Berg demonstrates how to appreciate the aroma of Hawaiian sea salt. He then makes the same gesture but, this time gently rubbing his hands, explaining that this is how to wake up your herbs. Since 2012, Berg has worked with Sandra Gibson of Sea Salts of Hawai‘i to develop a gourmet line of flavored all-natural sea salt, from garlic and fresh herbs to sweet Maui onion and spicy seaweed. “You don’t need a lot of salt,” Berg asserts. “You just need to use a high quality product. And this is true with salt … or any ingredient for that matter.” Indeed, Sea Salts of Hawai‘i’s Kona Pure is as unadulterated as the waters from where they derive. From depths exceeding 2,000 feet, the deep
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waters are pumped through a pipeline then brought to shore and stored in “hot houses.” After four weeks of slow evaporation, the natural sunlight transforms the pond of seawater into pure white, sea-salt crystals. “The word salt in Hawaiian is pa‘akai,” Gibson explains. “Pa‘a means solid or hardened and kai means ocean water. So when you’re gifting pa‘akai, you’re wishing that person good wishes and you’re solidifying your relationships.” In Hawaiian mythology, a fisherwoman named Hi‘iaka set off to the shores of ‘Ukula in Hanapēpē and caught far too much fish. Crying with guilt for catching more than she needed, Pele, the volcano goddess came to her with a solution and led her to a patch of land near the beach. As she dug a pit into the earth, it filled with ocean water that had emerged
from the ground. “Put your fish in here for a little while, then dry it out in the sun,” Pele instructed her. Hi‘iaka quickly learned that the tiny crystals from the ocean water would work to preserve her bountiful catch. This ancient story of Pele’s gift of salt sparked a tradition among families who made it their kuleana (responsibility) to preserve Hi‘iaka’s ways of salt harvesting. Varied in color and more crystal-like than its store-bought counterpart, Hawaiian sea salt assumes many roles beyond the kitchen. And, as it turns out, salt is the only rock that humans consume. “Hawaiian sea salt is much healthier than regular table salt,” Gibson says. “It contains trace minerals, as well as magnesium and potassium, which help maintain the body’s electrolyte levels.” While living on Kaua‘i, Gibson
Chef Norman Berg pinches grains of Hawaiian sea salt, which he describes as superior to any other salt.
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in Hawaiian is pa‘akai. Pa‘a means solid or hardened and kai means ocean water. So when you’re gifting pa‘akai, you’re wishing that person good wishes.” —Sandra Gibson
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experienced the meaningfulness of traditional Hawaiian salt and its cultural significance, which inspired her to establish Sea Salts of Hawai‘i. “We were fortunate enough to be gifted some Hawaiian sea salt when we were living on Kaua‘i so I thought it would be great to share the story of gifting salt,” Gibson says. “It has such symbolic meaning in the Hawaiian culture.” And if we’re hearing more and more about Hawaiian sea salt these days, it’s for good reason. It’s a big deal in the culinary world and even at spas. So says Mark Kurlansky in his definitive book, “Salt: a world history.” So important is this cherished substance that he relates it to the origins of agriculture, sexual desire, the American Revolution, the domestication of animals, the independence movement of India, Egyptian mummification, the invention of gunpowder, the establishment of cities and trade routes, and other countless events large and small. Even Captain James Cook, writes Kurlansky, commented on the excellence of Kaua‘i salt in the late 18th century.
Fortunately for us, Hawai‘i has a prominent place in the global salt hierarchy. How could we not? We are surrounded by ocean, our islands bathed in salt air. The trade winds that sweep in from the northeast have come a long way to reach us, over briny water all the way. And, for culinary and ceremonial purposes, the ingenious Hawaiians have a rich history of making and harvesting salt from evaporated sea water in depressions they carved in lava rock or in shallow ponds by the ocean. Their sea salt, was an article of equivalent value to the fish hooks and artifacts they so arduously crafted. Maui county, which includes Moloka‘i and Lāna‘i, has its own array of multi-hued Hawaiian salts, available in different varieties and in limited supply. Black salts may be treated with charcoal, pink salts with the mineral-rich clay called ‘alaea and even green salts are often infused with bamboo leaf and other extracts. “Salt has more smell than taste,” says Berg, once again cupping his hands and bringing them close to his nose. “A pinch of Hawaiian sea salt goes a long way.”
©OTTMAR DIEZ/MEDIA BAKERY
“The word salt
2019 RCSH Kauai Guestbook AD (10-19) - Half Page H (6.25” x 4.125”) - 4 color process
THE WINE GARDEN
4495 Puhi Road, Lihu’e
(Across from the Kaua’i Community College)
(808) 245-5766 | www.kauaiwinegarden.com Kauai’s first specialty wine store, The Wine Garden offers a carefully selected collection of interesting and unique wines, both domestic and imported. The Wine Garden also carries a wide array of beer from around the world, premium hand-rolled cigars, gourmet chocolate, and more.
HOOKED ON LOCAL FISH Chefs source their seafood from Kaua‘i fishermen
Chefs prepare their locally caught fish using various techniques, from seared and deep-fried to cubed and sliced thinly for nigiri sushi.
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There’s an old Hawaiian proverb that states “Laulaha ka ‘ai a ke ‘ahi,“ which literally translates to “the ‘ahi fish takes the hook in swarms.” The phrase is also said of a successful business: customers come in swarms. Indeed, the yellowfin and bigeye tuna (both refer to ‘ahi in Hawai‘i) have long been favorites among seafood fans. In ancient times, chiefs were known to fish for ‘ahi, considering it one of the most thrilling game fish.
Today, the majority of local restaurants serve ‘ahi—and other locally caught fish—in some manner, from grilled and seared to cubed and sliced for sashimi. Standing tall at 5’1” and weighing in at 110 pounds—and that’s when he’s soaking wet— Kevin Yamase has been fishing off the waters of Kaua‘i for the past 39 years, supplying various restaurants around the island with freshly caught ‘ahi, opah (moonfish) during the
(THIS PAGE) ©STEVE CZERNIAK. (OPPOSITE PAGE) ©MARK “WOOGIE” KRACHT
BY SIMPLICIO PARAGAS
CREDIT 1
Many chefs will attend the Honolulu Fish Auction to secure fresh ‘ahi, opah (moonfish) and other local seafood.
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summer months, and menpachi, trevally, akule, ‘ōpakapaka during the winter. “It was hard when I first started because there wasn’t really a great demand for local fish among Kaua‘i chefs,” recalls Yamase, from his 32-foot boat, which was anchored 7 miles off the coast of Kaua‘i. “Nowadays, though, I go out fishing for two to three days at a time. I’ve learned that you have to be consistent with your supply of fish or you’ll lose your clients.” One of Yamase’s steady buyers is Sean Smull, executive chef at Oasis on the Beach in Kapa‘a. “Right now, Kevin is providing us with a lot of ‘ahi,” Smull says. “We use predominantly fresh local fish, like ‘ahi, and during the slower season, we’ll get such bottomfish as ulua (pompano), ‘uku (snapper), mahimahi and hapu‘upu‘u (sea bass).” Smull’s culinary philosophy can be summed in three words: fresh, local and seasonal. “I moved to Kaua‘i eight years ago because I wanted to work with fresh fish since I was in landlocked Arizona,” says the passionate 29-year-old chef. “I was working at a highvolume restaurant where it was all about steaks, ribs and pork chops. I wanted to create lighter cuisine and I wanted to learn more about Asian ingredients.” No stranger to local ingredients is chef Peter Merriman, one of the founders of the Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine (HRC) and owner of his eponymous Fish House in Kōloa. In 1991, Merriman and 11 other chefs formed a culinary movement to help promote local farmers and producers, long before
Hooked on
Local Fish Fishing was vital in old Hawai‘i. Some fish were harvested in loko‘ia (fishponds); others were pulled from the ocean. Often they were steamed in underground ovens. ‘Ahi, mahimahi, ono and ‘ōpakapaka are four of Hawaii’s most popular and plentiful ocean fish. Each has a unique taste and texture. Whether you choose sashimi with shoyu, grilled with garlic, or baked in a buttery basilsauce, you’re sure to find a taste to suit your appetite. Fishing for some types of local fish is restricted at times by the state, so availability may be affected. Here are the five most popular local fish in Hawai‘i.
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‘Ahi (yellow fin tuna), available year round, is ideal for sashimi and poke. Mahimahi (dolphin fish) means “strong, strong” but tastes mild mild. The meat is white and flaky. Ono (wahoo) is a long, white fish available in the summer and fall. ‘Opakapaka (Hawaiian pink snapper) is light and pink with a delicate flavor. Opah (moon fish), full flavored, best as sashimi or when broiled.
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the philosophy of “farm-to-table” became de rigueur. “In the early days, it was really exciting, but there were no local products available,” Merriman recalls. “We used to have to take out classified ads in newspapers looking for people who wanted to sell any local products.” Today, fishermen like Yamase and Nathan Berg consistently provide Merriman with such fresh local fish as ‘ahi, ono and the premium, sashimigrade kampachi (amberjack). “When we first got into regional cuisine, we did so because we wanted access to fresh food,” Merriman says. “We weren’t thinking about food security or sustainability. Now, a lot of us are totally committed to using local ingredients whenever possible.
We truly are doing the local thing. And that’s the right thing to do.” For Yamase, being out in the open ocean for 300 of the 365 days a year has been his calling. Ever since hurricane Iwa wiped out his autobody shop in 1982, the Kaua‘i native has taken to the seas, catching, on average, 25-30 ‘ahi, which he sells to chefs around the island. “I cater to all the premier restaurants, like Oasis, Makai Sushi, Merriman’s and Da Crack,” Yamase says. “When I turned 50 years old, I told my friends that I was going to retire. I said it again when I was 55, and again when I turned 60. I’m 63 years old and already bust up, but when it comes to pulling in fish, some of which are twice my size, I can still hold my own.”
©MARK “WOOGIE” KRACHT
Oasis on the Beach’s chef Sean Smull prepares his ahi tartare with cucumber, onions, smoked sea salt and avocado mousse.
RESTAURANT GUIDE
Northside GrillCL00481 Pacific/American. With stunning views of Hanalei, this open-air restaurant was formerly known as Bouchons. This family-owned and -operated eatery offers Pacific-American fare, including locally caught seafood, St. Louis ribs, signature fish and chips and a premier sushi bar. 5-5190 Kūhiō Hwy., 808.826.9701. northsidegrill.com. L, D, C, B/W
HANAPĒPĒ MCS GrillCL006781 Regional. A local neighborhood favorite that’s known for its homestyle cuisine, affordable prices and friendly service. 1-3529 Kaumuali’i Hwy., 808.431.4645. L, D
KAPA‘A Cafe PortofinoCL006781 Italian. Upscale Northern Italian cuisine served in a comfortable al fresco ambiance. There are a variety of specialty pastas, fresh seafood and hearty entrees. 3481 Ho‘olaule‘a Way. 808.245.2121. cafeportofino.com. D, C, B/W Hukilau Lānai008136 Regional. Inventive island flavors, fresh local seafood and a unique wine list along with nightly entertainment. Kauai Coast Resort at the Beachboy, 520 Aleka Loop, 808.822.0600. hukilaukauai.com.0597 D, C, B/W Monico’s Taqueria Kaua‘i Mexican. The indoor/outdoor restaurant serves fresh and savory Mexican favorites, including chile relleno, seafood enchilladas and tacos. Kinipopo Shopping Village, 4-356 Kūhiō Hwy., 808.822.4300. monicostaqueria.net.0597 BB, L, D, C, B/W
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Oasis on the Beach Regional. A farm-to-table restaurant that’s committed to sourcing local ingredients and turning them into culinary masterpieces. Savor such specialties as braised boneless short ribs, seared catch of the day and honey-braised pork cheek. 4-820 Kūhiō Hwy., 808.822.9332. oasiskauai.com.0597 BRBR (Sat. and Sun.), B, L, D, C, B/W Papaya’s Natural Foods0T0h8e135, Regional. A health food store that’s well known for its local products, salad bar, refreshing smoothies and coffee. 4-831 4-901 Kūhiō Hwy., 808.823.0190. papayasnaturalfoods.com Open daily Rainbow Living FoodsCL008135 Regional. Kaua‘i’s first raw vegan cafe specializes in locally grown, organic and gluten-free cuisine. Try such vegan dishes as walnut veggie patty on flax bread and zucchini pasta. 4-1384 Kūhiō Hwy., 808.821.9759. rainbowlivingfoods.com L Smith’s Family Garden Lū’auCL005968 Regional. This lū’au is set within a 30-acre botanical and cultural garden in the Wailua River Valley. Take a leisurely stroll around the garden before watching a roasted pig unearthed from an imu (underground oven). Then sip on a mai tai and feast on the buffet dinner, all while enjoying the Polynesian dance revue. Smith’s Tropical Paradise, 5971 Kuhio Hwy., 808.821.6895. smithskauai.com. D
Porter Pavilion at Anaina Hou Community ParkCL00418267908136 Regional. Enjoy the North Shore’s newest one-stop entertainment option—a Polynesian fire show known as the “Ahi Lele.” Presented every Wednesday at 7:30 p.m. Arrive between 5:30 and 6:30 p.m. to enjoy a dinner special at the Cafe and Food Court. 5-2723 Kūhiō Hwy., 808.828.2118. anainahou.org. D, B/W
KŌLOA/PŌ’IPŪ Bangkok Happy Bowl Thai Bistro & BarCL00418267 Thai. Authentic Thai cuisine in a bistro atmosphere. There is also a full-service sushi bar. Pō’ipū Shopping Village, 2360 Kiahuna Plantation Dr., 808. 742.9888. bangkokhappybowl.com L, D, C, B/W Cabana Bar & Grill418267 Pacific Rim. Located inside the Pō’ipū Beach Athletic Club, this casual restaurant offers an inviting atmosphere and an eclectic menu that offers everything from summer rolls and kalua pork sliders to chicken bahn mi burger and ahi wraps. 2290 Pō’ipū Rd., 808.320.3006. thecabanakauai.com. L, D, C, B/W Beach House RestaurantCL00418267 Pacific Rim. This award-winning, fine dining restaurant overlooking the sea it the perfect place for a romantic evening with that special person. 5022 Lawai Rd., 808.742.1424. the-beach-house.com. L, D, C, B/W
Eating House 1849CL005971 Regional. Celebrity chef Roy Yamaguchi’s take on traditional local fare. Try the spicy ramen. Shops at Kukui’ula, 2829 Kalanikaumaka Rd., 808.742.5000. eatinghouse1849.com. D, C, B/W Keoki’s ParadiseCL0041829 Hawaiian Fusion. Enjoy such local specialties as the Koloa pork ribs or “Keoki’s Style” fish, baked in a garlic. Don’t forget to leave room for their specialty dessert— Kimo’s Original Hula Pie! Pō’ipū Shopping Village, 2360 Kiahuna Plantation Dr., 808.742.7534. keokisparadise.com. L, D, C, B/W Puka DogCL0041827 Hawaiian/American. Mouthwatering “bun-sized” loaves are pierced through to make a puka (hole) to fit a perfectly grilled sausage and the store’s secretrecipe relish and sauces. Pō’ipū Shopping Village, 2360 Kiahuna Plantation Dr., 808.742.6044. pukadog.com. L, D Ruth’s ChrisCL005971 American. Featuring the finest USDA Prime steaks, fresh island seafood, award-winning wine list, and a wide variety of appetizers, side dishes and desserts all served in a gracious environment with warm hospitality. Shops at Kukui’ula, 2829 Kalanikaumaka Rd., 808.278.6100. ruthschris.com. D, C, B/W
Street Burger0T0h8e135, American. An urban-chic eatery known for its locally sourced burgers, handcut fries and impressive selection of local and craft beers on tap. 4-369 Kūhiō Hwy., B-8, 808.212.1555. streetburgerkauai.com L, D, B/W
KĪLAUEA Cafe and Food Court at Anaina Hou Community ParkCL004182679 Regional. Find healthy, gourmet breakfast and lunch options. A rotating convoy of food trucks offers a wide variety of cuisines, from Mexican to Thai. 5-2723 Kūhiō Hwy., 808.828.2118. anainahou.org. B, L, D, B/W
©ISAAC ARJONILLA
HANALEI Hanalei GourmetCL00481 Pacific Rim. Find fresh, local produce, house-baked whole grain bread and award-winning tropical drinks at this cafe. Live music on Sundays and Wednesdays. 5-5161 Kūhiō Hwy., 808.826.2524. hanaleigourmet.com. L, D, C, B/W
LĪHU‘E Naupaka TerraceCL0081369 Regional. Known for its breakfast during the day and contemporary island cuisine in the evening. Aqua Kaua’i Beach Resort, 4331 Kaua‘i Beach Dr., 808.245.1955. kauaibeachresorthawaii.com. B, D, C, B/W Duke’s Canoe ClubCL008136 Seafood. Serving such island favorites as fresh local fish and huli-huli chicken along with a full salad bar. The Barefoot Bar offers sweeping views of Nāwiliwili Bay and a menu of local appetizers. Kaua‘i Marriott Resort & Spa, 3610 Rice St., 808.246.9599. marriott.com. L, D, C, B/W
KEY TO DINING ABBREVIATIONS: Service: (B) Breakfast; (Br) Brunch; (L) Lunch; (D) Dinner; (C) Cocktails; (E) Entertainment; (B/W) Beer & Wine.
Hamura’s Saimin StandCL00253 Regional. Crowds often line up at this 40-year-old institution for a bowl of the famous homemade saimin. The restaurant was honored by the James Beard Foundation as an “American Classic.” 2956 Kress St., Cash only, credit cards not accepted 808.245.3271. L, D
The Wine Garden Specialty. The first specialty wine store on Kaua‘i with a large array of wines in all price range, international and domestic craft beers, cigars and gourmet foods. 4495 Puhi Rd., 808.245.5766. kauaiwinegarden.com. Open daily
WAIMEA Shrimp StationCL0081372 Seafood. A casual roadside eatery on the way to Waimea Canyon, serving fresh, sautéed peel-and-eat shrimp in a variety of sauces. 9652 Kaumuali’i Hwy., 808.338.1242. shrimpstation.com. Open daily
Hā Coffee Bar
PRINCEVILLE
0Pacific Rim. An intimate coffee
0Kaua‘i GrillCL0041832
Wrangler’s SteakhouseCL008137 American. Large hand-selected
shop that was built to resemble a classic old school bar. Stop by for a slice of pie, açaí bowl or a pastry from such local bakeries as Heartflame Bakery and Mailani Sweet Treats. 4180 Rice St., 808.631.9241. hacoffeebar.com B, L
Regional. This elegant hideaway promises a spectacular modern dining experience. The St. Regis Princeville Resort, 5520 Ka Haku Rd., 808.826.9644. kauaigrill.com. D, C, B/W
cuts of steak and multi-course dinners in a paniolo (Hawaiian cowboy) atmosphere. Try the hot sizzling T-bone or tender sirloin. For a quick nibble, go to “The Saddle Room.” 9854 Kaumuali‘i Hwy., 808.338.1218.
WB’s Restaurant & GrillCL00253 Regional. Homestyle cooking that is satisfying. Serving a mix of local favorites. 2978 Umi St., 808.3203241 L,D, C, B
L, D, C, B/W Princeville Wine Market 041827 Specialty. This boutique wine store offers fine wines at every price point. 5-4280 Kuhio Hwy., 808.826.0040. princevillewinemarket.com. Open daily
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T C E N N O C K N EAT - DRI EEK OPEN 7 DAYS A W 11 AM -7 PM ER HOURS EXTENDED SUMM 11 AM - 8 PM
808-320-3006 THECABANAKAUAI@GMAIL.COM
2290 POIPU RD. KOLOA, HI 96756
ITALIAN RESTAURANT & PIZZERIA
R I G H T O N THE BEACH 2013 Zagat award 2012 Zagat Rated Excellent
Also Specializing in Seafood and Steaks
2011 Zagat Rated 1999 Zagat Award 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002 2003, 2004, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2012, 2013 -DiRoNa Award 2001, 2002 AAA Diamond Award 2009, 2010 -Fodor Star Award “One of the Top Ten” -Gourmet Magazine “A Honeymoon Destination” -Martha Stewart “Come for the True Amore” -Globe Trotter Travel Guide 2001 International Award of Excellence - Five Stars “Recommended” -Frommer’s Travel Guide Production Supervisor “Highly Recommended” -Trip Advisor
“Romantic Harp Music Every Night” Open 7 Days a Week Oceanfront Dining from 5:00 pm to 9:30 pm Dancing on Thursdays from 10:00 pm to 2:00 am (dress code) Located on the Beach at the Kauai Marriott ~ Free Valet Parking at the Hotel Reservations Recommended ~ Perfect for Weddings and Rehearsal Dinners
(808) 245-2121