Hawaii Inside Out November-December 2016

InsideOu

THE RESOURCE GUIDE TO OUR ISLAND

OAHU

NOVEMBER+ DECEMBER 2016

HAWAI‘I TO HAVANA

Discovering the aloha spirit in this Caribbean island

CROWNING VICTORY

Top surfers look to ride epic waves on the North Shore

SCIENCE PROJECT

Kailua High School gains new state-ofthe-art facility

Casting a New Angle Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar lures in guests with its ‘New Wave’ menu items

Capture the essence o f t h e H aw a i i a n w ave s , k e e p i n g t h e i r b e a u t y, power and grace everlasting.

O ‘ A H U : A L A M OA N A C E N T E R | D E S I G N C E N T E R | D F S T- G A L L E R I A WA I K I K I | D O L E P L A N TAT I O N H I LTO N H AWA I I A N V I L L AG E | I N T E R N AT I O N A L M A R K E T P L AC E | ROYA L H AWA I I A N H OT E L S H E R ATO N WA I K I K I | WA I K I K I B E AC H WA L K | WA I K I K I B E AC H M A R R I OT T | M A U I : P I O N E E R I N N W H A L E R S V I L L AG E | K A UA ‘ I : A N C H O R C OV E | B I G I S L A N D O F H AWA I ‘ I : KO N A S Q U A R E M A U N A L OA M AC A DA M I A N U T | Q U E E N S ’ M A R K E T P L AC E | ROYA L KO N A C O F F E E | WA I KO L OA K I N G S ’ S H O P S F O R E V E R G UA R A N T E E | 8 0 0 . 2 5 3 . 6 0 1 6 | M A U I D I V E R S . C O M

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Contents D E PA RT M E N TS ISLAND LIFE

8 In Remembrance The 75th Anniversary of Pearl Harbor marks a somber period.

MO RS EL S

10 Dine Around Visit new and old eateries during Restaurant Week, November 14-20.

40 MA U K A T O MA K A I

18 Science Project Kailua High School’s new science building creates opportunities for students.

36 Check-Out Hunger Hawai‘i Foodbank and Kraft Foods Hawai‘i partner again to stamp out famine among seniors, keiki and families.

O U T A N D A BO U T

INS AND OUTS

22 Events and Celebrations Mark your calendars for the 36th Annual Hawai‘i International Film Festival and the Turkey Trot.

40 Not to Miss From a Tree Lighting Ceremony to the hilarious Ali Wong, it’s all about fun and festivities during November and December.

MU S I N G S

28 F E AT U R E S 24 Hawai‘i to Havana A first-time visit to the Caribbean island leaves a lasting impression. Thawed relations between the U.S. and Cuba now attract thousands of American tourists. by Gina Bailey 28 Raw Talent Executive chef Axel Colobong adds his own culinary personality—and a touch of Filipino—to the menu at Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar. by Simplicio Paragas 32 Surf’s Up! The winter season brings large swells to the North Shore, attracting some of the world’s best surfers who will compete in the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing. by Simplicio Paragas 4

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(FROM TOP LEFT, CLOCKWISE) ©STEVE CZERNIAK; COURTESY NETFLIX; PHOTO COURTESY OF WORLD WAR II VALOR IN THE PACIFIC, 75TH PEARL HARBOR COMMEMORATION EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE

12 Giving Thanks Aloha Harvest needs island residents’ kokua—and food —this holiday season.

NOW NOW OPEN OPEN ININ WAIKIKI WAIKIKI THE ZAGAT AWARD HONOLULU HOTTEST RESTAURANT

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| PEOPLE’S | PEOPLE’S ‘ILIMA ‘ILIMA AWARD, AWARD, HONOLULU HONOLULU STAR-ADVERTISER STAR-ADVERTISER READERS READERS CHOICE CHOICE AWARD, AWARD, HAWAII HAWAII MAGAZINE MAGAZINE READERS READERS 10 BEST RESTAURANTS IN HAWAII AWARD BY THE CULTURE TRIP

10 BEST 10 BEST RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS IN HAWAII IN HAWAII AWARD AWARD

BY THE

BY THE CULTURE CULTURE TRIPTRIP

10 BEST 10 BEST RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS IN HAWAII IN HAWAII AWARD AWARD

BY THE

BY THE CULTURE CULTURE TRIPTRIP KNOWN FOR FUSING FRESH, HAWAII INGREDIENTS WITH THE EXOTIC FLAVORS OF ASIA, CHEF CHAI HAS CREATED

KNOWN KNOWN FOR FOR FUSING FUSING FRESH, FRESH, HAWAII HAWAII INGREDIENTS INGREDIENTS WITHWITH THE EXOTIC THE EXOTIC FLAVORS FLAVORS OF ASIA, OF ASIA, CHEFCHEF CHAICHAI HAS HAS CREATED CREATED A CULINARY A CULINARY STYLE STYLE A CULINARY STYLE THAT EMBODIES THE VIBRANT CULTURAL DIVERSITY OFASIA, THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. SPICES KNOWN FOR FOR FUSING FUSING FRESH, FRESH, HAWAII HAWAII INGREDIENTS INGREDIENTS WITH WITH THE THE EXOTIC FLAVORS FLAVORS OF ASIA, OF CHEF CHEF CHAI CHAI HASAND HAS CREATED CREATED AFRESH CULINARY A CULINARY STYLE STYLE THATKNOWN THAT EMBODIES EMBODIES THE THE VIBRANT VIBRANT CULTURAL CULTURAL DIVERSITY DIVERSITY OF THE OFEXOTIC THE HAWAIIAN HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. ISLANDS. FRESH FRESH SPICES SPICES AND INGREDIENTS INGREDIENTS FROM FROM OAHU’S OAHU’S AND INGREDIENTS FROM OAHU’S FARMERS MARKETS AND IN ISLANDS. HONOLULU’S CHINATOWN ARE ESSENTIAL TO CHEF THAT THAT EMBODIES EMBODIES THE THE VIBRANT CULTURAL DIVERSITY DIVERSITY OF THE OF THE HAWAIIAN HAWAIIAN FRESH FRESH SPICES SPICES AND INGREDIENTS INGREDIENTS FROM FROM OAHU’S OAHU’S FARMERS FARMERS MARKETS MARKETS AND AND INVIBRANT HONOLULU’S IN CULTURAL HONOLULU’S CHINATOWN CHINATOWN ARE ESSENTIAL ARE ESSENTIAL TO CHEF TOISLANDS. CHEF CHAI, CHAI, REMINISCENT REMINISCENT OFAND HIS OFYOUTH HIS YOUTH SPENT SPENT SHOPPING SHOPPING FARMERS MARKETS MARKETS AND AND IN HONOLULU’S IN HONOLULU’S CHINATOWN CHINATOWN AREYEARS ESSENTIAL AREYEARS ESSENTIAL TO CHEF TOCHAI’S CHEF CHAI, CHAI, REMINISCENT REMINISCENT OF HIS OF YOUTH HISTO YOUTH SPENT SPENT SHOPPING SHOPPING THE FARMERS THE BANGKOK BANGKOK MARKETS MARKETS FOR FOR HIS FAMILY'S HISYOUTH FAMILY'S RESTAURANT. RESTAURANT. LATER, CHAI’S RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS HAVE HAVE GROWN GROWN FAME, TO FAME, CRITIQUED CRITIQUED CHAI, REMINISCENT OF HIS SPENT SHOPPING THELATER, BANGKOK MARKETS FOR HIS FAMILY’S RESTAURANT. THE BANGKOK BANGKOK MARKETS MARKETS FOR FOR HIS FAMILY'S HIS FAMILY'S RESTAURANT. RESTAURANT. YEARS YEARS LATER, LATER, CHAI’S CHAI’S RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS HAVE HAVE GROWN GROWN FAME, TO FAME, CRITIQUED CRITIQUED ANDTHE AND RECOMMENDED RECOMMENDED

BY MANY

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©SIMPLICIO PARAGAS

CEO AND PRESIDENT

ED ITOR’S L ETTER

✽

Aloha to ¡Hola!

©SIMPLICIO PARAGAS

The Yanquis are coming. The Canucks and Europeans have already arrived ... in droves.

While tourist travel to Cuba is still prohibited under U.S. Law for American citizens and permanent residents, the Office of Foreign Assets Control (OFAC) of the U.S. Department of the Treasury has issued general licenses within 12 categories that allow authorized visits for many travel-related transactions to, from, or within Cuba that previously required a specific license. ¡Vámonos! Let’s go!

Speaking of going, veterans, families and dignitaries plan to attend a series of events that will commemorate the 75th anniversary of Pearl Harbor.

History was also in the making when Kailua High School opened its new stateof-the-art Natural Science Lab Building.

It was a day that science department chair J.J. Feurer had been dreaming about for more than a decade.

One of the busiest streets in Old Havana, second only to Obispo, Calle Mercaderes is crowded with people — a lot of people from all over the world.

That’s the same amount of time that it took Axel Colobong to realize his own dream: to be an executive chef. Now at the helm of the kitchen at Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar, the Filipino native has added his own culinary personality to the menu.

Another restaurateur, Herbert DeAguiar of Cupcake & Things has been on a his own mission since he opened his bakery in Kapolei five years ago: to donate his out-of-date baked goods. To the rescue is Aloha Harvest, a nonprofit that picks up leftover food that would otherwise end up in the trash and distributes it to local social agencies.

Hawai‘i Foodbank members also help feed those in current need and they want us to help Check-Out Hunger.

ON THE COVER Executive chef Axel Colobong reels in diners with fresh fish and new wave sushi at Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar. ©Steve Czerniak

Simplicio Paragas SENIOR EDITOR NOV E M B E R + DE C E M B E R 2 0 1 6

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I SLA ND L I F E

Historic Moment

Themed, “Honoring the Past, Inspiring the Future,” the 75th Anniversary of Pearl Harbor marks a somber period that we should never forget.

by Simplicio Paragas

In an official proclamation to recognize Pearl Harbor’s milestone 75th Anniversary, Hawai‘i Gov. David Ige forthrightly stated, “The December 7, 1941 attack on Pearl Harbor and other airfields on the island of O‘ahu, led directly to our country’s entry into WWII. Those events changed our lives forever and triggered our resolve as a nation, our can-do attitude and an unmatched commitment to the defense of freedom.”

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GALA AFFAIR

SENTIMENTAL JOURNEY

As part of Pearl Harbor and in honor of its 10th anniversary, the Pacific Aviation Museum will be the site of the opening ceremonies on December 3. The evening will include cocktails, dinner, entertainment and an auction. Guests will also get a first look at newly restored aircrafts fresh out of Lt. Ted Shealy’s Restoration Shop. For tickets and more information, call 441.1006 or email Carol@PacificAviationMuseum.org.

Attendees are invited to the Home of the Brave Brewseum on December 4, from 5 to 9 p.m. Event goers can take a sentimental journey through time and embrace the very sights and sounds of an era that changed the course of history. Remember, honor and salute America’s heroes at a nostalgic evening in historic Kaka‘ako.

Food and beverages will be available for purchase. brewseums.com.

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MEMORIAL PARADE

On December 7, from 4:30 to 7:30 p.m., a parade along Kalākaua Avenue will honor the remaining Pearl Harbor survivors as the Grand Marshals will also recognize all veterans, active duty military and their families. The parade will start at Fort DeRussy, and will end at Kapi‘olani Park. For more information, visit pearlharbor parade.org.

MORE EVENTS

From a jazz performance to a marathon race, there’s something for everyone to experience. For a schedule of events (from December 1-11), visit pearlharbor75thanniversary.com.✽

PHOTO COURTESY OF WORLD WAR II VALOR IN THE PACIFIC, 75TH PEARL HARBOR COMMEMORATION EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE

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M O R SE L S

Dine Around

Visit new and old eateries during Restaurant Week.

by Simplicio Paragas

ASIAN-MEX

have been raised to support this dream.

“Restaurant Week Hawai‘i is an industrydriven event that involves all segments — from purveyors and farmers to distributors and hotels,” says

COURTESY L&L HAWAIIAN BBQ

Chef Chai’s crispy Asian tacos are made with smoked duck breast served with an avocadoand-mango salsa.

shape. While talks of an advanced four-year culinary program have been ongoing for more than 20 years, it was only a decade ago that serious planning emerged. And thanks to Restaurant Week, monies

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(OPPOSITE PAGE) ©LINNY MORRIS; (THIS PAGE, TOP) COURTESY CHEF CHAI AT PACIFICA; ©LINNY MORRIS

One year after breaking ground, the vision of a new 7.8-acre state-ofthe-art facility, located on the former Fort Ruger Cannon Club site behind Diamond Head crater, is beginning to take

(OPPOSITE PAGE) ©LINNY MORRIS; (THIS PAGE, TOP) COURTESY CHEF CHAI AT PACIFICA; ©LINNY MORRIS

COURTESY L&L HAWAIIAN BBQ

Conrad Nonaka, director of the Culinary Institute of the Pacific, which is the umbrella term that covers all UH campus culinary programs. “It bridges education with industry partners, while also bringing in the community.”

More than 100 different restaurants — from fine dining to fast-food — will participate in this year’s event. Each establishment will provide special menu items, promotions and discounts during the weeklong celebration of local cuisine.

Always a willing participant in fundraisers, Chai Chaowasaree says he supports this effort because it helps shore up Hawai‘i’s image as a culinary destination, which is reliant on the next generation of up-and-coming chefs.

“Go out and eat,” Chaowasaree encourages island residents. “You have seven days to check out new restaurants or return to your favorite ones. It’s all for a good cause.”

According to Nonaka, the first $25 million phase of the new facility will include two culinary teaching laboratories; an advanced multi-function laboratory; an advanced Asian cuisine laboratory; one of two paved parking lots; an imu pit; farm plots; and infra-

structure improvements, such as water, electrical and sewer connections.

The second phase of the plan calls for the construction of student classrooms; faculty office space; a 100-seat auditorium for demonstrations and broadcasting to remote locations; a 200seat teaching restaurant and student laboratory; additional parking; two additional baking and patisserie laboratories; and an administration and office building.

“Hawai‘i needs this type of advance facility to attract top talent from all over the world,” Nonaka asserts. “This is an investment for the future and people can help by eating

out during Restaurant Week, which really helps our efforts in branding the Culinary Institute of the Pacific.”

Restaurant Week will run from November 14-20.

Visit the event’s website to see a list of participating restaurants and their respective menus. restaurantweekhawaii.com ✽ NOV E M B E R + DE C E M B E R 2 0 1 6

CHEF CHAI Modern with whimsical touches of contemporary decor, Chef Chai at Pacifica pampers guests with attentive service and a menu that includes this crispy whole fish floating above a chili-ginger sauce. |

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M O R SE L S

Rescue Mission

Aloha Harvest saves leftovers to help feed Hawai‘i’s hungry.

Herbert DeAguiar would prefer that his baked goods go “to waists” and not waste. Since opening Cupcake and Things five years ago in Kapolei, DeAguiar has donated parfaits, donuts, croissants, breakfast pastries, slices of cake and, of course, cupcakes to Aloha Harvest.

“When I developed my business plan, I knew I wanted to donate the baked goods that were out of date after three days, but they still had a shelf

ALOHA SPIRIT Crisscrossing the island seven days a week, Aloha Harvest drivers pick up and deliver food to various social agencies.

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life of another four to five days,” DeAguiar asserts.

“I know there are a lot of needy people out there and I would rather have my baked goods go to them than in the trash.”

With two trucks that crisscross the island every day starting at 5:30 in the morning, Aloha Harvest’s mission is “Rescuing Food to Feed Hawai‘i’s Hungry.”

While some may have trepidations in donating food that otherwise would have been destined for the

landfill, Hawai‘i’s “Good Samaritan” law shields anyone or entity from personal or corporate liability.

“The only stipulation is that the food had to have been prepared in a certified kitchen,” says Ku‘ulei Williams, Aloha Harvest’s executive director. “The food that is picked up each day is delivered that same day!”

“So much food goes to waste and I wish more restaurants would participate in this program,” DeAguiar says. “Their drivers are great. They come here twice a week and I usually give them three to four boxes of baked goods that I know someone in the community will appreciate. ” Overall, Aloha Harvest serves more than 160 different social agencies and Williams says that figure keeps growing. “We’ll pick up prepared food, non-prepared food and any beverages,” she says.

“We help to feed about 73,000 people … and counting.”

To help Aloha Harvest, call 537-6945 or visit alohaharvest.org.✽

COURTESY ALOHA HARVEST

by Simplicio Paragas

Experience Hawai‘i’s farm-fresh flavors 25% KAMA‘AINA DISCOUNT LOCATED AT SHERATON WAIKIKI COMPLIMENTARY SELF-PARKING KAIMARKET.COM | 808-921-4600

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L I Q U I D A SSE T S

the number of guests and individual tastes. An oaked Chardonnay will complement stuffings, creamy sauces and mashed squash or potatoes.

Talking Turkey... and Wine The best pairings for your holiday feasts and fêtes | By Alison Kent

or a couple of berries for color. Or, make an ever greater impression with a chilled bottle of French Champagne — served with or without a selection of canapés and appetizers.

Bonus Tip: For a light and refreshing dessert, pour chilled sparkling wine over your favorite sorbet and fresh fruit in parfait cups and top with toasted nuts or coconut shavings and whipped cream.

The festive season is a time to give thanks. And, it’s a time to consider which wine to match with your meal — or what bottle to bring to your host.

Begin with Bubbles: As an aperitif, nothing sets a celebratory tone like sparkling wine. Keep it simple and elegant with flutes or coupe glasses of chilled Prosecco, Cava or another dry sparkler. Add a splash of Chambord 14

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Bird is the Word: To com-

plement the taste of roast turkey, choose a crisp white wine like Riesling or Pinot Grigio. Even better, reserve a glass (or buy another bottle) to add a good-size glug to turkey pan juices when making your gravy.

As a red wine alternative, the acidity offered in Pinot Noir will complement turkey exceptionally well, especially when choosing dark meat.

Wines ‘n Sides: A potential wide range of side dish flavors means wine pairing can be a bit of a challenge.

As there are no set rules — and viewpoints may vary — consider offering both red and white wine options, depending on

For duck, stick with Pinot Noir with its delicate fruit notes and soft tannins, or go bigger and bolder with a peppery Zinfandel or velvety Syrah. For prime rib, try a Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot with tannins tailor-suited to cut through and balance out this richer meat. Seafood stews or lobster call for the rich, buttery notes of an oaked Chardonnay; and when soft cheeses, grilled or roasted pork or chicken are on the menu, a dry-yetfruity rosé can prove to be a worthy partner.

Sweet Endings: Whether sipped on its own or to accompany pecan and pumpkin pies, choose a tawny Port wine or Sauternes.

Or, finish your meal as you started — with a bonus glass of bubbles. ✽

(FROM TOP) ©BOCHKAREV PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK; ©ALISON KENT

Beyond the Big Bird:

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Open daily from 5:00 to 10:00pm.

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M U SI NG S

Science Project Experiments and college credits abound as Kailua High School’s new science building creates more opportunities for its students.

by Kristen Nemoto

For more than 10 years, J.J. Feurer, Kailua High School’s science department chair, has dreamt about a dedicated facility that could provide optimal science courses for his students.

“I guess I must have taught about every science class,” says Feurer with a chuckle as he recalls his years of teaching at Kailua High School. He gradually noticed signs of the

times when his classroom started to fall behind in the school’s curriculum. “Aged and inadequate facilities restricted the programs. We wanted a space that could give our kids opportunities for success.”

In 2005, KHS’s science department began discussions about their ideal

facility. Soon, their conversations became testimonies at the Capitol, in hopes that officials would grant them their wish of a sufficient space for learning.

Then in 2009, with the support of local district legislators, Kailua High School received funds from the Department of Educa-

(TOP) ©KEHAU AGENA; (BOTTOM) ©TEANI VALDEZ

(Top right) Kailua High School’s new modern science building. (Below) Local district legislators flank principal Francine Honda (third from left) during the grand opening on April 11.

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tion to begin planning for a new science building. “(The state senators) realized the positive impact this new facility would have on our school community and worked hard to promote and obtain funding.” Feurer says.

With the help of community partners, such as the John A. Burns School of Medicine and Hawai‘i Pacific University, Kailua High School collaborated with Architecture Plus Inc. to design a space that worked cohesively with the school’s educational goals.

Finally on April 11, the Kailua High School Natural Science Lab Building opened its doors. Teachers, students and local legislators got to tour the two-story, over 18,000 square-foot

(Top) School officials, legislators, students and community members browse around the building’s fish tanks.

(Above) Legislators get a feel for the new computer lab.

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space for the first time, complete with four classrooms, two computer labs and an aquaculture multi-use area.

“What’s kind of neat is that we worked together to install a modern facility but one that still has ties to its

“They really have a renewed passion for learning ... if they want to engage in a big research project ... they’ve got all that stuff right here.” past,” says Gary Kawakami, principal of Architecture Plus Inc., as he explains the connection between KHS’s Natural Science Lab Building’s aquaculture tanks located on the first floor — which house four 2,100-gallon fish tanks

— to its future plans for a taro lo‘i that the science department has in mind.

“I think the space will help the students to become open to new opportunities of learning.”

Feurer is excited for his students to be able to have the chance to work with state-of-the-art science equipment, especially in preparation for a college education. This year, KHS will offer dual credit courses, which allow students to take courses that double up as both high school and college credits.

“They really have a renewed passion for learning.” Feurer says. “And if they want to engage in a big research project, they can do it. They’ve got all that stuff right here.”✽

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Events and Celebrations ‘Tis the most wonderful time of the year. So get in the holiday spirit by attending the Waikīkī Holiday Parade or “The Nutcracker.” Here’s a quick glance at events and shows during November and December.

Screen Shots

November 3-13 As the vanguard forum of international cinematic achievement in the Asia-Pacific region, Hawai‘i International Film Festival (HIFF) endeavors to recognize new and emerging talent, promote career development and original collaborations through innovative education programs, and facilitate dynamic cultural exchange through the cinema arts. Now in its 36th year, HIFF is the sister festival of Shanghai International Film Festival. hiff.org

RUN FOR THE WOODS December 4 XTERRA Trail Run World Championship is an offroad half-marathon that winds through Kualoa Nature Preserve. Trail runs, a kids’ race, and other family events will also be featured. xterraplanet.com HONOLULU MARATHON December 11

Ready, Set, Trot!

November 24 Sponsored by the Honolulu Marathon Clinic, the 41st Annual Turkey Trot is a Thanksgiving tradition that’s open to anyone who’s looking to squeeze in an early morning holiday run.

The course map is kept confidential until race day, and time-keeping devices are not permitted. Runners who finish closest to their predicted time can redeem their tongue depressors for various prizes. honolulumarathonclinic.org

Founded in 1973, the Honolulu Marathon ranks among the world’s 10 largest marathons in terms of total finishers. honolulumarathon.org 22

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Holiday Parade

November 25 The Waikīkī Holiday Parade commemorates Pearl Harbor by honoring survivors and veterans in memory of the attacks on December 7, 1941. Local Hawaiian bands, marching bands from the mainland, military units, local officials and dignitaries will march down Kalākaua Avenue along Waikīkī Beach. waikikiholidayparade.com

Sugar Plum Fairy December 16-18 Hawai‘i State Ballet is proud to celebrate its 30th anniversary production of “The Nutcracker” at Mamiya Theatre.

Ticket prices range from $20 to $36. hawaiistateballet.com

(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT) COURTESY HIFF; COURTESY WAIKIKI HOLIDAY PARADE; © KIM CAMACHO PHOTOGRAPHY; ©STANLEY CHUN

MAORI RATPACK November 13 The Modern Maori Quartet brings its award-winning act, musical abilities and colorful storytelling to Hawai‘i Theatre. hawaiitheatre.com

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(OPPOSITE PAGE) ©ALAMY, ©SHUTTERSTOCK, ©GETTYIMAGES; (THIS PAGE) ©SIMPLICIO PARAGAS

Hawai‘i to Havana Discover the aloha spirit in this Caribbean island.

(OPPOSITE PAGE) ©ALAMY, ©SHUTTERSTOCK, ©GETTYIMAGES; (THIS PAGE) ©SIMPLICIO PARAGAS

By Gina Bailey Although Cuba still remains the elusive “forbidden zone” for most U.S. citizens, there are currently 12 categories under which Americans may visit as individuals, including one exemption that allows adventurers to travel within a group known as “people-to-people.” Given the easing of travel restrictions and even direct flights, there is now an influx of tourists flocking to this frozen-in-time Caribbean island. So after three months of preparing the necessary paperwork, we, as first time sojourners to Cuba, finally arrived at José Martí International Airport; albeit bleary-eyed after a lengthy, multi-leg flight from Honolulu.

First Impressions Aside from the humidity, Havana presents a dizzying array of political, economical, structural and generational contradictions. To walk the uneven cobbled streets of La Habana Vieja (Old Havana) is to experience the manifestations of those contradictions. Crumbling buildings abut restored facades; pock-marked side streets lead to well maintained avenues and boulevards; and bicis (bicycles) share the road with shiny new Mercedes Benzes.

Since the culmination of the Cuban Revolution and Fidel Castro’s rise to power in 1959 when political dissent could land one in jail or worse, the people of Cuba are now eager to speak of politics and the consequences of a state-run economic model. They openly express

their economic hardships due, in part, to the impact of the American embargo and the resulting decades of isolation. Mostly however, they are verbally bursting to talk of their unattained and dashed dreams they had for themselves and the insecurities for the future generations. Many of the older cohorts who once optimistically embraced the tenets of “Viva La Revolucion” have begun to question their sacrifices, even in light of the fact that Cuba remains near the top among nations for having the most educated people and the highest access to quality healthcare.

Others, however, fervently defend the noble ideas that informed the socialist society as it developed throughout the decades. Nonetheless, the problematics with laissez-faire capitalism are certainly not lost in their political views. Hence, further contradictions and conundrums seemingly lay ahead for the future of Cuba.

Perhaps most illustrative of the current generational divide was captured during a conversation we had with a father, a 54-year-old professional and former aviation engineer, and his daughter, a 23-year-old economics student at the Universidad de La Habana. Given current reforms, the father echoed the now national rallying refrain, “We’ll see,” with trepidation but still in a hopeful manner.

Conversely, his daughter stated that she respected the ideas of her parents’ generation but new ideas and new possibilities are now desperately needed.

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(Opposite page, clockwise from top left) Musicians are often seen carrying their instruments.

Colorfully dressed women sell fresh flowers.

Vintage cars pass the Gran Teatro de la Habana.

(Above) One of many city tour operators.

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People-to-People One of the most striking aspects of our stay was the resilience and conviviality of the Cuban people. As is often said in American lexicon, “necessity is the mother of invention.” In Cuba, it’s “Inventamos y Resolvemos,” which means we invent and resolve to survive. This trait is apparent in everything, from fixing the iconic almendróns (vintage U.S. cars) to the flourishing arts in music, dance, ceramics and painting. It appears as if the arts in Cuba were a productive survival mechanism that allowed for expression, which otherwise would have been suppressed. As a consequence, Cubans are some of the most joyful, open and giving people we have had the pleasure to meet.

There is something to be said about “those who have the least tend to give the most.” So true among Cubans.

Su Casa Es Mi Casa Where to stay in Cuba is a highly personal choice. The options range from swanky, Wi-Fi-friendly hotels along The Malecon to budget-friendly casas particulares, privately owned homes. We chose La Rosa De Ortega based upon its

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location (about 10 minutes away from Havana), reviews and general ambiance as shown on its website. We wanted more organic interaction with locals in a homelike setting but we didn’t want to forgo the ‘luxuries’ of a private bathroom and king-size bed. Our room was well appointed, air conditioned and an A+ choice. We cannot say enough about the ‘hearts’ that flow from those who helped make our stay one of our lifetime favorites. La Rosa De Ortega is magical on many levels, from the casa itself to the soul-filled laughter that resonates from the common areas all day long. Again, the Cuban people are some of the most gracious in the world and embody what we, in Hawai‘i, term the aloha spirit.✽ TOP SITES TO VISIT

Habana Vieja • Catedral de San Cristóbal de la Habana • Castillo de la Real Fuerza • Calle Obispo • Calle Mercaderes • Plaza Vieja Centro Habana • Capitolio Nacional • Malecón • Museo de la Revolución • Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes • Statue of José Martí Where to Stay • La Rosa De Ortega B&B www.larosadeortega.com Can I Go? Visit the U.S. Department of the Treasury website regarding the 12 categories of authorized travel for many travel-related transactions to, from or within Cuba.

(THIS PAGE) ©KOVGABOR/SHUTTERSTOCK; (OPPOSITE PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP) ©MARKA/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; ©KAMIRA/SHUTTERSTOCK; ©CHRIS LEWINGTON/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

(Above) One of many buildings in need of repair.

(Opposite page, clockwise from top) Costumed street performers dance on stilts.

One of the many cobbled streets that lead to El Capitolio. Murals of Ernesto “Che” Guevara can be found on many structures.

Even though Cuba is slowly becoming more of a ‘mixed economy’ with certain private enterprises now allowed, the father and daughter we spoke with could both be considered part of the ‘Lost Generation(s),’ which is characterized by disillusionment about the possibilities of a better future. Years of university study and professional status do not necessarily equate to a comfortable lifestyle, as we later learned from a former English teacher and Olympian-turned city tour operators.

However, despite economic challenges, all the Cubans we met possessed an effusive buoyancy that was irrepressible.

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Raw Talent Sansei chefs master the art of sushi

By Simplicio Paragas | Photos By Steve Czerniak

(Above) Axel Colobong helms the Sansei kitchen where he has added his own culinary style.

(Opposite page) Hamachi carpaccio.

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Axel Colobong is a rock star in his own sense.

His stage, though, is a kitchen and his “axe,” a knife, which he wields with precision and deftness. Rising in the ranks from line cook to executive chef at Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar, the 30-year-old Waipahu native now helms this popular Waikīkī establishment that’s well known for its contemporary Japanese cuisine and modern “new wave” sushi.

“We still have the core menu but I can now let my own personality come out through my special entrees,” says Colobong, a graduate of the Leeward Community College culinary program. “I’ve always been in the kitchen helping my mom and I want to infuse what she taught me with what I’ve learned from chefs at Hiroshi’s and Vino.”

A case in point can be found in Colobong’s panko-crusted shutome, which offers a Filipino twist. A tangled web of homemade fettuccine is mixed with a savory guisantes sauce that receives a gourmet complement with the addition of an English pea puree. Like the traditional Filipino tomato-based dish, this version also includes bits of pork and, of course, peas. The firm flesh of the shutome holds up well with the al dente pasta while also maintaining its own distinct seafood flavor.

“We can do traditional Japanese food but that has never really been our intent,” says D.K. Restaurant Group managing partner and director of operations Ivy Nagayama. “DK (Kodama, founder) has always been known for his Japaneseinspired Pacific Rim dishes.”

Working diligently and barely looking up, sushi chefs at the bar work in a choreograph fashion with a “quarterback” passing on orders of spider, lobster-andasparagus and caterpillar rolls, along with Cajun-seared walu sashimi, sanshocrusted seared ahi and Japanese yellowtail poke with nori and aioli. A personal

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(Above) Flyin’ Ahi’s fresh poke bowl. (Opposite page) Inferno’s wood-fire pizzas yield a crispy crust that can be topped with such ingredients as olives, fresh Ho Farms tomatoes and basil.

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favorite, the hamachi carpaccio consists of paper-thin slices of prized amberjack that are topped with a strip of shiso and a sliver of habanero pepper, all set atop a shallow pool of truffleinfused ponzu. Neither shoyu nor wasabi is necessary.

When Kodama introduced “New Wave” sushi in the mid ’90s, it was welcomed with praise and awards, with diners and critics alike hailing the concept as innovative and genius.

The idea was to provide contemporary and innovative sushi in a casual, lively environment. And it worked. So much so that Kodama recently opened a Sansei outpost in Seattle where it’s being met with enthusiasm and positive reviews.

“We’re similar to an izakaya, a Japanese pub,” Nagayama notes.

“We offer a lot of dishes that people can share.”

In addition to a wide range of sushi, the menu also includes select hot and cold appetizers, and such “Large Plates” as grilled pork chops, chili-andporcini-crusted beef tenderloin, grilled Hawaiian ahi paired with Sansei’s award-winning shrimp cake and truffle-infused ramen broth with bits of crab, Thai basil and mild jalapenos for a little kick.

“That’s definitely the #1 dish,” Colobong says of the crab ramen. “After that it’s the mango crab salad handroll, which is light, refreshing and perfect for Hawai‘i’s weather.”

In an age when superstar chefs are racing to be the “first” to create an original dish using unusual techniques and ingredients, Colobong prefers a slower pace, focusing more on

consistency and flavor profiles. His fork-tender, slow-braised veal cheek, for example, is rubbed with 5-Spice powder and infused with a hoisin aioli and scallion pesto. The mélange of flavors works in harmony, offering the right balance between savory and sweet to achieve that wanted state of umami.

“When I worked at Hiroshi’s, I learned about the, subtlety, finesse and elegance of Japanese cuisine,” Colobong explains. “At Vino, it was more rustic cuisine and learning how to make vegetables taste good.”

In the future, guests can expect Colobong to offer more entrée specials and vegetables du jour, such as corn on the cob coated with a kombu butter, roasted potatoes and pan-fried cauliflower combined with brussel sprouts.

“He has really come up in our family of restaurants,” says Nagayama in praise of Colobong. “We like to utilize local talent. This is important in our company culture. We like to promote within to give our loyal longterm employees a chance to succeed and grow with the company.” ✽

(Opposite page) Panko-crusted shutome sits atop a bed of homemade fettuccine, which is flavored with a guisantes sauce.

Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar Waikiki Beach Marriott Resort & Spa 2552 Kalakaua Ave. 931-6286 Free 3-hour self-parking validation www.dkrestaurants.com Late-night karaoke and open mic Fridays and live music on Saturdays, from 10 p.m. to 1 a.m.; 50 percent off sushi and appetizers. Early-bird “Local Special” Sundays and Mondays from 5:30 to 6 p.m., doors open at 5:15 p.m.; 50 percent off all food and sushi.

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Crowning Glory World Champion Surfers Vie for Prestigious Title

By Simplicio Paragas

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Hawai‘i media and communications manager Lauren Rolland. “WSL’s catch phrase, ‘You can’t script this’ rings true throughout the year and especially at the culminating event of the season, the prestigious Billabong Pipe Masters.”

Rolland’s colorful metaphor likens these daring surfers to Roman gladiators who must battle 20-foot beasts in relentless ocean conditions.

“The Vans Triple Crown spans six weeks of time, offers up seven different trophies and crowns one World Champion,” Rolland explains. “It is unlike any other sports series in the world and draws thousands of visitors to the North Shore to witness the action live from the beach.”

©WSL/HEFF

(Opposite page) Finalists on the podium during the 2015 Hawaiian Pro include, from left, Dusty Payne (4th), Ezekiel Lau (3rd), Filipe Toledo (2nd) and Wade Carmichael (1st).

Surf’s up! And so, too, is the competition.

As winter swells begin to pound the North Shore, surfers from around the world will compete in a series of events that will take place from November through December, including the Vans Triple Crown, considered by the pros as the Super Bowl of surfing.

“While it compares to The World Series (baseball), FIFA World Cup (soccer), The Masters (golf), etc. in terms of prestige, honor and athleticism, the Vans Triple Crown is in a league of its own since no other professional sport in the world tackles the ever-changing conditions of mother nature (wind, weather and waves) the way surfing does,” says World Surf League (WSL)

(PREVIOUS SPREAD AND THIS PAGE) ©WSL/MASUREL

(This page) Australian Jack Robinson went on to win the Pipe Invitational last season and a slot into the coveted Billabong Pipe Masters.

©WSL/HEFF

(PREVIOUS SPREAD AND THIS PAGE) ©WSL/MASUREL

In 1983, former Hawai‘i senator Fred Hemmings decided to transform a multitude of surfing events being held on the North Shore into a culmination of surf competitions that would crown an overall champion. There along the invite-only waters of the unpredictable Hale‘iwa, the high-performance venue of Sunset and the ever dangerous and infamous Pipeline beach, the three distinct surf-break threats became known as the Triple Crown of Surfing.

In the mid ’90s, Vans bought out the name and trademarked it to become what is known today as the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing.

Pat Caldwell, NOAA and National Weather Service (NWS) surf forecaster, notes that the latest predictions are for a neutral — not El Nino, not La Nina — winter.

“This basically means that we are looking at below average surf for giant (20+ feet Hawaiian scale) days, and a 50/50 odds for extra-large (13-19 feet) days,” Caldwell explains. “But when looking at the surf size category summaries, the most active season since 1968 was in 1985-86, a neutral year, so you can’t rule out anything just yet. During that season, there were 13 days recorded in the giant category, and for reference, the recent El Nino season 2015-16 had 11 giant days.”

So who should we watch for this year? Rolland has her bet on the North Shore’s John John Florence, who is currently leading the Championship Tour in the #1 spot after winning the Oi Rio Pro in May. “He is in strong contention for the WSL World title, and should be the golden child,” Rolland says. “It would be the first time Hawai‘i has had a male surfing champion in over a decade

since Andy Irons won it back in 2004.”

Other prospects to keep an eye — or binoculars — on are O‘ahu’s Ezekiel Lau, who is also in a strong position to qualify for the Championship Tour, sitting in the #6 spot on the qualifying series, along with Maui’s own Dusty Payne, who will compete in the HIC Pro (October 27 - November 9) and the Vans Triple Crown.

On the women’s side, Carissa Moore is currently on the hunt for a fourth World Champion title, however it could all come to an end at the upcoming Cascais Women’s Pro should Australian Tyler Wright clinch the event with a win — and therefore the World title.

Kaua‘i’s Bethany Hamilton has been a true standout this year, especially after her brilliant performance at the Fiji Women’s Pro, only a year after giving birth to her son Tobias.

“If Hamilton receives a berth into the Women’s Pipe Invitational, which takes place during the Billabong Pipe Masters,” Rolland says, “look out for another phenomenal show.”✽ NOV E M B E R + DE C E M B E R 2 0 1 6

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World Surf League Schedule Nov. 12 - 23 Hawaiian Pro, Hale‘iwa Ali‘i Beach Park, Hale‘iwa Nov. 23 - Dec. 5 Maui Women’s Pro, Honolua Bay/ Maui Nov. 24 - Dec. 6 Vans World Cup of Surfing, North Shore Dec. 1 - Feb. 28 Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau, holding period Dec. 8 - 20 Billabong Pipe Masters, Ehukai Beach Park, North Shore

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M A U K A T O M AK AI

Check-out Hunger The Hawai‘i Foodbank needs our kokua. by

With the holiday season approaching, Kraft Foods Hawai‘i has again launched its “Check-Out Hunger” campaign to benefit foodbanks across the state. Running through January 17, 2017, the annual fundraiser pleas with shoppers to donate money to help feed a child, a senior or an entire family.

“It’s really a natural human reaction to want to help somebody else when it comes to food,” says Polly Kauahi, vice president and COO of the Hawai‘i Foodbank.

CHECK-OUT HUNGER Hawai‘i Foodbank’s president and CEO Gerald Shintaku and Kraft Foods Hawai‘i spokeswoman Sweetie Pacarro encourage shoppers to help feed our keiki, seniors and ohana.

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“It’s really a great way for people to reflect and take notice. Especially during the holidays … that’s what the season is all about.”

Modeled after New Jersey’s successful CheckOut Hunger, the Hawai‘i Foodbank first adopted the program during the 1993 holiday season. Brightlycolored, green coupon-like tags were stocked at the majority of the Safeway branches on O‘ahu, allowing customers to tear off the amount they’d like to donate, as well as get a description of the beneficiary

of their generous donation.

The program received wide support from the community, allowing the Hawai‘i Foodbank to continue the campaign the following year with more stores on O‘ahu and additional shops on the Neighbor Islands.

As in previous years, participating locations will once again include Safeway, Times Supermarkets, Big Save Markets, Don Quijote, KTA Super Stores, Tamura’s Market, Tamura’s Fine Wine & Liquors, Tamura’s Supermarket, ChoiceMART, Shima’s Supermarket and Fujioka Wine Times.

When checking out at the register at any one of these locations, people can choose a voucher in the amount of $2.81, which will feed a child breakfast for a week; $12.43, which will buy a senior lunch for a month; and $16.84, which will help support a family’s dinner for an entire week.

“Participating in the ‘Check-Out Hunger’ program is an easy way for the community to come together and help these local families in need,” says Hawai‘i Foodbank’s president and CEO Gerald Shintaku.

To help out the Hawai‘i Foodbank, call 836-3600 or visit: hawaiifoodbank.org.✽

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I N S A ND O U T S

Not to Miss

A quick glance at events and celebrations during November and December. Mark your calendars and attend the Honolulu City Lights Tree Lighting Ceremony and don’t miss the hilarious Ali Wong.

COMING SOON SONY OPEN January 9-15 More than 140 of the world’s elite golf professionals will compete in the Sony Open at the Waialae Country Club. The event is the largest charity golf fundraiser in Hawai‘i.

Honolulu City Lights

STELLA!

Game Time

Dynamic Duo

December 24 Now in

December 17 In what has become a much anticipated

its 15th year, the Hawai‘i

annual tradition, the Amy & Willie Holiday Show fea-

Bowl will pit a team from

tures Nä Hökü Hanohano Award-winning artists Amy

Conference USA against

Hanaiali‘i and Willie K. Highlights promise to be Willie

a team from the Mountain West. The bowl is known

K’s “O’ Holy Night” and songs from Hanaiali‘i’s “A Hawaiian Christmas.” hawaiitheatre.com

for its high scoring (the winning team has scored times), thrilling offenses

All the ‘Wong’ Reasons

LUNAR YEAR

and close games with two

December 30 Voted as

January 28 Firecrackers will pop and the dragon will snake through the streets of Chinatown to mark the Year of the Rooster.

overtime contests and

“Best of the Bay,” come-

five games decided by

dienne Ali Wong brings

one touchdown or less.

her belly-busting humor

The bowl supports many

when she takes the stage

non-profit organizations.

at Hawai‘i Theatre.

sheratonhawaiibowl.com

hawaiitheatre.com

40 or more points 10

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December 3 Shaka Santa and Tutu Mele return to Honolulu Hale for another holiday season. Thousands of island residents will attend opening ceremonies, which starts at 4 p.m. at Sky Gate. The Mayor will flip the switch at 6 p.m. honolulucitylights.org

January 27, 29 and 31 Hawai‘i Opera Theatre’s rendition of the Tennessee Williams’ steamy drama, “A Streetcar Named Desire,” will star Jill Gardner (Tosca 2013) as Blanche and Ryan McKinny (The Dutchman 2015) as Stanley.

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