Hawaii Where GuestBook 2016-2017

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ISLAND

HAWAI‘I

PHOTO CREDIT GOTHAM BOOK 5.5/9PT

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WELCOME TO HAWAIʻI ISLAND

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F lawless.

h i l d g u n d

Hildgund Makes Histor y.

The Hildgund heritage is as distinguished as the works of art they are so well known for.

The company began in 1873 as Dawkins

W h e n i t c o m e s t o f i n d i n g t h e p e r f e c t j e w e l r y, one need look no further than Hildgund.

Benny Jewelry in Downtown Honolulu. They had the distinct honor of being one of the first jewelers in the state to create

When world travelers seek the perfect vacation destination, they come to Hawaii. When the privileged

crests for Hawaiian Royalty.

few come in search of the world’s finest jewelry, they need look no further than Hildgund.

Step inside some of Hawaii’s most prestigious resorts, and you’ll find Hildgund. Prepare to be dazzled by the myriad of precious gems, exotic yellow diamonds, fine jade, rubies, pearls and emeralds that come from all corners of the world. If you’re looking to commemorate one of life’s unforgettable moments and only the most spectacular piece of jewelry will do, then Hildgund is the place to shop.

Hildgund’s service evokes the warm aloha spirit and friendly hospitality of a kama‘aina company. Each store is adorned with beautifully-crafted koa wood counters along with a welcoming portrait of Hildgund Bucky, the company’s founder.

The purchase of any piece of Hildgund merchandise is likely to be one of grand proportions.

However, the comfort and care that staff members provide to customers makes the experience more like buying from a friend. Staff members have been with the company for many years and over that time, have established long-lasting and trusting friendships with their customers.

In the 1940s, Hildgund Bucky, a master goldsmith from Germany, came to Hawaii to work at Ming’s as a designer. She

“

along with Tahitian, South Sea and Freshwater Pearls. In addition, they offer an extensive collection of limited edition jewelry and collectible accessories for men, including beautifully hand-crafted knives by brilliant designers.

-Bruce Bucky, president

“I want to give our customers a one-of-a-kind perfect piece that they can’t find anywhere else, while providing the best possible service and value,” says company president Bruce Bucky.

Benny, where she perfected

a style of jewelry renowned for her superior quality and craftsmanship. She eventually purchased the company, renaming

it

Hildgund

at One of many custom-designed pieces by Hildgund.

Dawkins Benny.

When it comes to creating jewelry, the Hildgund philosophy has always been to create pieces that Hildgund Bucky, being a woman of exceptional fashion and style, would be proud to wear herself. Hildgund is forever searching the world for precious stones that are transformed into wondrous works of art by designers from Hawaii and around the world.

Hildgund features the largest collection of internally flawless yelI want to give our customers a one-of-a-kind perfect piece that low diamonds in the state. You’ll also find exotic colored gems that are certified, natural and unheated from around the globe, they can’t find anywhere else.”

then moved on to Dawkins

Hildgund making jewelry in an early photo.

In

the

1980s,

Hildgund opened stores in some of Hawaii’s most elite resorts. The locations allowed her to share her creations with visitors on holiday a brooch from Hildgund’s sketchbook.

as well as locals.

Hildgund Bucky retired in 1995,

but the tradition continued with her husband Carl Bucky and son, Bruce. Bruce carries on the tradition of offering exclusive, one-of-a-kind pieces in a friendly setting.

Over the years, Hildgund has received many offers to expand throughout the world, but they have always declined. “We want shopping at Hildgund to remain a special treat when visiting Hawaii,” says Bruce.

Today Hildgund has six locations at the most exclusive

When it comes to the perfect pairing of jewelry to individual taste, and total discretion with one-on-one customer care, you’d have to say that the Hildgund experience is simply flawless.

resorts throughout Hawaii.

Hildgund Bucky.

1924 - 2012

Oahu Halekulani

The Kahala Hotel

72-100 Ka`upulehu Drive

Maui Four Seasons Resort at Wailea

2199 Kalia Road

5000 Kahala Avenue

Kamuela, HI 96743

Kailua-Kona, hi 96740

3900 Wailea Alanui

Honolulu, HI 96815

Honolulu, HI 96816

Phone: (808) 882-1861

Phone: (808) 325-0606

Wailea, HI 96753

Phone: (808) 923-8777

Phone: (808) 737-8663

Big Island Mauna Lani Bay Hotel

Mauna Kea Beach Hotel

Four Seasons Hualalai

68-1400 Mauna Lani Bay Dr

62-100 Mauna Kea Beach Dr

Kohala Coast, HI 96743 Phone: (808) 885-6617

Phone: (808) 874-5800

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FLAWLESS SINCE 1873

Hawaii Mauna Lani Bay Hotel Four Seasons Res ort at Hualalai Mauna Kea Beach Hotel

808.523.1123

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Oahu The Kahala Hotel Halekulani

Maui Four Seasons Maui

HILDGUND.COM

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HAWAI‘I ISLAND GUESTBOOK is part of a series of four books that Where® Hawai‘i has produced for all the major Hawaiian Islands in 2016-2017, including O‘ahu, Maui and Kaua‘i. Each island will be represented with its own unique, iconic landmark image as the cover ®

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art. These books are designed to entertain and educate visitors about each respective island, and to tell the

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stories of Hawai‘i in an engaging and artistic manner.

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We hope you enjoy the book as much as we took pleasure ISLAND

HAWAI‘I ISLAND 2017

HAWAI‘I

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in writing about Hawai‘i’s treasures, places and people.

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L E G E N DA RY S H O P P I N G & D I N I N G

T I F FA N Y & C O .

M I C H A E L KO R S R OY ’ S WA I K O L O A B A R & G R I L L TO R I R I C H A R D TO M M Y B A H A M A MAUI DIVERS JEWELRY HONOLUA SURF CO. COACH R O YA L G O L D A - B AY ’ S I S L A N D G R I L L T H E K O A TA B L E B Y C H E F I P P Y M ACY ’ S R E S O RT STO R E MARTIN & MACARTHUR NA HOKU AND MORE...

L o c a t e d i n Wa i k o l o a B e a c h R e s o r t

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Big Island

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808.886.8811

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HAWAI‘I ISLAND CONTENTS

ISLAND ESSENCE 36 PHOTO ESSAY

44 LIQUID FIRE

LIFE AQUATIC

ACTIVE VOLCAN0

A talented photographer turns his lens toward the ocean.

BY MIKE COOTS

Mother Nature continues her fiery show at Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park.

BY LESLIE LANG

ON THE COVER Kīlauea Volcano continues to erupt at its summit and East Rift Zone inside Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park. ©DOUGLAS PEEBLES/GETTY IMAGES INSIDE FRONT COVER The day’s last rays filter through clouds as lapping waves gently ebb and flow.

56 THE ADVENTURES OF MARK TWAIN

©OSALAM/GETTY IMAGES

IN HIS FOOTSTEPS Back in 1866, the prolific American author spent four months exploring the islands.

BY KIM STEUTERMANN ROGERS

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HAWAI‘I ISLAND CONTENTS

ISLAND ESSENTIALS 16 NAVIGATE

78 PARTING SHOT

NEIGHBORHOOD WATCH

HULA HUDDLE

Getting around the island.

No two parts of Hawai‘i Island are alike.

KOHALA COAST: Explore this vibrant oceanside region, which has some of the island’s best beaches.

HILO: Be sure to visit the Hilo Farmers Market, which attracts hundreds of farmers and vendors.

WAIMEA: Considered paniolo (cowboy) country, this historic area is home to cattle, cowboys and ranches.

WAIPI‘O VALLEY: This “Valley of the Kings” is one of Hawai‘i’s most sacred native preservation sites.

MAUNA KEA: The dormant volcano’s peak is the highest point across the Hawaiian islands.

Hawai‘i’s history is passed down through oli (chant) and hula.

18 DATEBOOK HOT DATES A calendar of events that includes the Merrie Monarch Festival and the Taste of the Hawaiian Range.

24 FIRSTLOOK HAWAI‘I ISLAND’S SIGNATURE ATTRACTIONS Hawai‘i Island boasts some spectacular scenes that include flowing lava, ancient petroglyphs and a magical valley.

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68 ISLAND VIEWS

HAWAI‘I ISLAND MAP

SPECIAL SECTION DINING IN PARADISE Hawai‘i Island’s restaurants are as varied as their chefs, who offer an international array of flavors.

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Like No Place On Earth Since 1985!

HAWAI‘I ISLAND ADVERTISING & CIRCULATION HAWAI‘I DIRECTOR Buddy Moore ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Glenn Kobayashi ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Robert Kowal, Donna Kowalczyk, Chris Snipes INDEPENDENT SALES CONTRACTORS Debbie De

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Where GuestBook® is produced by Morris Visitor Publications (MVP), a division of Morris Communications, Co., LLC. 725 Broad St., Augusta, GA 30901, morrismedianetwork.com. Where® magazine and the where® logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications. MVP publishes Where magazine, Where® QuickGuide, IN New York, and IN London magazines, and a host of other maps, guides, and directories for business and leisure travelers, and is the publisher for the Hospitality Industry Association.

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WHERE HAWAI‘I, EDITORIAL OFFICE 1833 Kalākaua Ave., Suite 810 Honolulu, HI 96815 Phone: 808.955.2378; Fax: 808.955.2379

Where GuestBook® publishes editions for the following U.S. cities and regions: Arizona, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charlotte, Chicago, Colorado, Dallas/Fort Worth, Florida Gold Coast (Fort Lauderdale & Palm Beach), Hawai‘i Island (the Big Island), Houston, Jacksonville/St. Augustine/Amelia Island, Kansas City, Kaua‘i, Los Angeles, Maui, Miami, Nashville, New Orleans, New York, O‘ahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Raleigh/Durham/Chapel Hill, Reno/Lake Tahoe, San Antonio, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle/The Eastside/Tacoma, Southwest Florida (Naples), Tampa Bay, Tucson, Washington D.C. ©2017 by Morris Visitor Publications. All rights reserved. This publication may not be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, in whole or in part, without the express prior written permission of the publisher. The publisher assumes no responsibility to any party for the content of any advertisement in this publication, including any errors and omissions therein. By placing an order for an advertisement, the advertiser agrees to indemnify the publisher against any claims relating to the advertisement.

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W H E R E G UESTBO O K

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NAVIGATE

Island Overview GETTING AROUND HAWAI’I ISLAND

Ni‘ihau The “forbidden” island is known for exquisite shell jewelry.

Kaua‘i Magnificent sea cliffs, canyons and foliage distinguish the Garden Isle.

O‘ahu It’s known for Waikīkī beaches, shopping, Pearl Harbor and the North Shore.

Moloka‘i You’ll find old Hawai‘i charm, mule rides and famous Moloka‘i bread.

Maui Come to the Valley Isle for whale-watching, art, Mt. Haleakalā and the winding Hāna Highway.

Kaho‘olawe Once a Navy firing range, this island is now dedicated to the preservation of Hawaiian culture.

Hawai‘i Hawai’i Island has an active volcano and wonderfully diverse scenery.

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©EUREKA CARTOGRAPHY, BERKELEY, CA; (WATERCOLOR BACKGROUND AND EDGE PATTERN) ©MIKE REAGAN

Lāna‘i Lovely Hulopoe Bay has posh resorts, and Koele has pine-studded uplands.

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DATEBOOK STARRY, STARRY NIGHT

watching a traditional pa’u parade with

The Waimea Ocean Film Festival (Ocean

horses and riders adorned in flowers and

Film) returns to Waimea and the sunny

myriad colors. June 11, 2017. kamehame-

Kohala Coast for its seventh year. Enjoy

hadaycelebration.org

feature films and programs showing at the Mauna Kea Resort, The Fairmont Orchid and

CULTURAL HERITAGE

the Four Seasons Resort Hualālai at Historic

Hawai‘i Island Festival, 30 Days of Aloha was

Ka‘ūpūlehu’s. The festival will showcase

created to continue a monthlong celebra-

award-winning films, breakfast talks, Q&A

tion formerly known as Aloha Festivals. The

filmmaker sessions, guest speakers, artistic

festival seeks to perpetuate the cultural

exhibits and the popular “Taste of the Island.”

traditions and aloha spirit of Hawai‘i Island

January 2-10, 2017. waimeaoceanfilm.org

through various signature and affiliated events, all of which showcase a unique

ON TAP FOR ANOTHER YEAR

aspect of Hawai’i’s rich heritage.

The microbrewery revolution in Hawai‘i is

September 2017. hawaiiislandfestival.org

of the annual Kona Brewer’s Festival at the

HOME ON THE RANGE

Courtyard King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach

Held at the Hilton Waikoloa Village, the

Hotel. Now in its 22nd year, the event taps

22nd annual Mealani’s Taste of the Hawaiian

into the talents of local and national brew-

Range brings together ranchers, farmers,

masters, and more than 30 chefs. The festival

restaurateurs and eager eaters.

also includes live entertainment and the

September (TBD), 2017.

annual “Trash Fashion Show,” which shows

TasteoftheHawaiianRange.com

off whimsical attire made entirely from recycled material. It has grown to include

SOARING TO NEW HEIGHTS

a Brewer’s Pa’ina and Art Auction, a Home

Last year’s inaugural Hawai‘i Island Festival

Brewers Competition, and a 5/10k run/walk.

of Birds marked the grand opening of

March 11, 2017. konabrewersfestival.com

the 90-mile Hawai’i Island Coast-to-Coast Birding Trail (HICCBT). The event will feature

WILL & GRACE

ELITE HĀLAU HULA COMPETE IN PRESTIGIOUS EVENT It’s that time of the year when hālau hula (hula school) trek to the usually quiet town of Hilo on Hawai‘i Island, and kama‘āina (locals) and visitors clamber for tickets to see each hālau’s technically trained students perform ‘auana (modern) and kahiko (ancient) hula, choreographed by its respected kumu (teacher).

It’s the annual Merrie Monarch Festival, and 2017 marks its 54th anniversary.

Considered the Olympics of hula, the Merrie Monarch Festival was named in honor of King Kalākaua’s reign, which was also called the ‘Merrie Monarch.’

April 16 - 22, 2017. merriemonarch.com 18

MELE MEI

workshops, field trips and a gala dinner. The

Translated to “May, Hawaiian Music Month,”

HICCBT is a first for the state and will traverse

Mele Mei showcases a veritable lineup of

the island’s many habitats — from desert to

musicians, from traditional Hawaiian and

rain forest — with opportunities to see an

contemporary to ukulele and steel guitar to

incredible diversity of birds along the way.

reggae and rock ’n’ roll. This celebration of

September (TBD), 2017. birdfesthawaii.org

Hawai’i’s music, hula and culture takes place at various venues throughout the state.

April-June 2017. melemei.com

REIGNING PARTY Every year, thousands of people gather on the northern tip of the Hawai‘i Island to honor Kamehameha I, the chief who united the Hawaiian Islands in 1795. A visit to this historic area on King Kamehameha Day is sure to be a highlight of a trip to the Islands. Enjoy the natural beauty, while

(FROM LEFT) ©LEHUA WAIPA AHNEE/BIG ISLAND VISITORS BUREAU; ©LEW SCHARPF/CREATIVE COMMONS

alive and hopping, judging by the popularity

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Since 1990

Also Featuri

ng Niihau She lls Hawaiian A ntiquities Antique Ha waiian Map s Vintage Tra vel Posters Vintage Ha waiiana

g Over Featurin rtists Island A ig B 0 0 2 iture od Furn Koa Wo owls Wood B s Ceramic Glass s Painting aphy Photogr re Sculptu Jewelry

Buy Loc al!

Recognized by the Ni ’ihau Cultural Herit age Foundation.W Ni’ihau Shell Jewelr e are the only y Retailer on the Bi g Island with such recognition.

Available at Harbor Gallery

Gallery Open Dai ly 11:30am to 8:30pm Next to Café Pesto in Kawaihae Shoppi ng

808.882.1510 | ww

w.harborgallery.b

Center

iz

Find us on

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Expect the Unexpected!

The Waimea General Store has been a local favorite since 1970 and family owned since 1976. But if you’re expecting aisles of soda, sunscreen, and flip flops, be prepared for a surprise! This old style, wood floored, vintage store is stocked with Crabtree & Evelyn, locally made soaps and lotions, an array of kitchen tools, Le Creuset, Hawaiian books including children’s and cookbooks. Browse an array of fun cards, gifts, elegant paper goods, candles, cotton kimonos, local jams, and chocolates, and have it gift wrapped free. This fun, relaxed store is sure to become your favorite place to visit whether you’re visiting from near or far!

LOOK FOR THE ‘NENE' SIGN AT PARKER SQUARE ~ OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK! www.waimeageneralstore.com

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(808) 885-4479

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65-1279 Kawaihae Rd, Kamuela HI, 96743

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FIRST LOOK Itineraries on Hawai‘i Island can quickly fill up with all there is to see and do, from black sand beaches and petroglyphs to stargazing and swimming with manta rays.

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“What I have always longed for was the privilege of living forever away up on one of those mountains in the Sandwich [Hawaiian] Islands overlooking the sea.”

MARK TWAIN

Pololū Valley

The short tip that sticks out on the top left portion of Hawai‘i Island may not look like much on a typical map but the view, once you’ve driven up that winding coast, along Highway 270, at the end is a rewarding panoramic vision of Pololū Valley. Be careful if you make your way down the steep hike to the shoreline as the currents can become very strong. Swimming is highly discouraged for many safety reasons.Northern Kohala Coast

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FIRST LOOK

Also known as the “Place of Refuge,” this storied piece of lava-walled shoreline served as a sanctuary of forgiveness and protection in pre-contact Hawai‘i. This forebodinglooking pu‘uhonua at Honaunau Bay—south of Captain Cook—protected lawbreakers and warriors who made it to safety within its walls. Once there, they could plead their case to a kahuna (priest or elder) in hopes of absolution.

On Hwy. 160, 808.328.2288, www.nps.gov/puho

Honoka‘a

For more than a century, sugar was king along the fertile Hāmākua Coast. Today, despite the industry’s demise in the late 1990s, Honoka‘a, the biggest small town along this coast, remains a living testament to the plantation era.

Economic changes have not diminished Honoka‘a’s historical integrity. While some visitors consider Honoka‘a no more than a gateway to Waipi‘o Valley, it’s worth exploring this National Historic Site. On Mamāne Street, the Honoka‘a People’s Theater has been showing movies since the late ‘30s. A more than 80-year-old hardware store and century-old Buddhist Temple add their luster to the town, and down the road, Tex Drive-In is a local institution. Learn more about the area’s plantation days at Laupahoehoe Train Museum, or book an excursion into the lush Waipi‘o Valley, known as the “Valley of the Kings.”

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(PREVIOUS SPREAD) ©DENNIS FRATES/ALAMY; (THIS PAGE FROM TOP) ©LARRY GEDDIS/ALAMY; ©ANGUS MCCOMISKEY/ALAMY

Pu‘uhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park

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INDICH collection

Fine Oriental Carpets & Hawaiian Rugs®

BIG ISLAND

OA H U

M AU I

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‘Imiloa Astronomy Center of Hawai‘i As one of the world’s leading astronomical research facilities, the ‘Imiloa Astronomy Center includes studies of the sun, planets, stars, galaxies and cosmology. It also celebrates the traditional methods of ancient Native Hawaiian astronomy and keeps a step ahead with new-age 21st century research. The Planetarium shows provide a twinkling and educational perspective of the skies above Hawai‘i. 600 Imiloa Pl., Hilo, 808.932.8900

Kealakekua Bay

It’s no accident that Kealakekua Bay, south of KailuaKona, is a marine preserve teeming with tropical fish, moray eels and octopus. It’s one of the best snorkeling sites on the island, and dolphins love it too. But it’s not just eye candy; it occupies a singular position in Hawai‘i history as the place where British Capt. James Cook, thought to be the first European to visit Hawai‘i, was both greeted as a god and put to death in 1779, one year after he first anchored in west Kaua‘i.

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Puakō Petroglyph Archaeological Preserve

While petroglyphs, or lava rock carvings, are found throughout the state, the largest concentrations are located on the Kohala Coast. The Mauna Lani Resort and The Royal Waikoloan Hotel have historians who can direct you to the petroglyph trails beginning at Holoholokai Beach.

(CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT) ©PHILIP ROSENBERG/MEDIABAKERY; ©TOR JOHNSON/HAWAII TOURISM AUTHORITY; ©ALVIS UPITIS/ALAMY

FIRST LOOK

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FIRST LOOK

Hilo Farmers Market

Manta Ray Night Snorkel and Dive

First of all, these huge manta rays are gentle, and do not possess stinging barbs like their stingray cousins. As evening falls, tour boats gather and submerged lights illuminate the area where the mantas come to feed on plankton. Often frequenting the waters that front Keauhou Bay, these giant creatures perform amazing maneuvers nightly as they scoop the tiny microscopic plankton into their wide mouths. There are various options to watch this underwater ballet—from scuba to snorkel, or just viewing from the cliffs above the hotel. Like any wild creature, do not touch or feed these mantas. Simply to be in the water with these giants is surely an experience of a lifetime.

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(FROM TOP) © BONITA CHESHIER/123RF STOCK PHOTO; AQUAFUN/123RF STOCK PHOTO

A trip to the Farmers Market isn’t just a great place to cast your gaze over the range of local produce or a chance to stand in wonder at the exotic fruits and vegetables.

It’s not just delightful smells, but it’s one of the few opportunities to really experience Hawai‘i Island. The market is open every day, but the best days to go are Wednesdays and Saturdays. Farmers arrive early and set up their booths by 6 a.m. Get there early, as the saying in the Farmers Market is open from “dawn till gone.”

Historic downtown Hilo, 808.933.1000

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FIRST LOOK

Keauhou

Located south of historic Kailua Village, Keauhou gets its name from the Hawaiian words ke au hou, which translate to “the new era.” It’s a fitting name given that this is where the battle of Lekeleke in 1820 was fought, an historical event that led to the abolishment of the kapu (code of conduct) system and changed Hawaiian beliefs forever. A monument near the Keauhou Bay marks the royal history of this fabled area.

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“Keauhou, kai nehe i ka ‘ili‘ili. Keauhou, where the sea murmurs to the pebbles. This was the place where many of the highest chiefs resided and where Kamehameha III was born.” HAWAIIAN PROVERB in ‘Ōlelo No‘eau by Mary Kawena Pukui

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LIFE AQUATIC The story of Hawai‘i is the story of water. Our history and culture are intimately linked to the sea.

We ride its waves and delve into its depths, we fish its waters and cultivate its plants.

It is life itself.

Hawai‘i photographer Michael Coots explores this captivating world.

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PHOTO CREDIT GOTHAM BOOK 5.5/9PT

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Photographer Mike Coots’ love affair with the ocean has remained constant—even after losing a leg at the age of 18 to a shark. Undeterred and fitted with a specially designed prosthetic leg, the avid surfer returned to the waves to enjoy—and photograph—his favorite sport and environment. His respect for the ocean and its inhabitants extends even to sharks. As an activist, Coots campaigns to end shark finning and culling and to make people aware of the dangers of polluting the ocean. One of his most rewarding causes is helping children who have lost limbs, inspiring them to pursue their dreams—as he has done.

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LIQUID FIRE Founded on August 1, 1916, Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park protects 520 square miles of the island’s volcanic wonders TEXT BY LESLIE LANG

One day, when my grandmother was in grade school, one of the Hawai‘i Island’s volcanoes suddenly started to erupt. Her family jumped in the car to drive up and see the fiery spectacle, but no one noticed she had been playing with a pair of wooden geta. She was practicing walking in the traditional Japanese wooden platform shoes, which require balancing on two wooden blocks and can be precarious for a little girl. She got in the car, the geta on her feet.

Up at the volcano, she hobbled in those geta for what seemed like miles over uneven, sometimes sharp lava fields, which can be tricky to walk on even with appropriate footwear.

It was hard. “I was just a kid!” she said. “Nobody told me to go change my shoes before we left!” She was still upset with the grownups when she told me about it 75 years later.

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The place they hiked to see the fiery show had recently become the country’s 15th National Park, as proclaimed by President Woodrow Wilson, who signed Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park into existence in August 1916. Today, spewing eruptions at Kīlauea Volcano continue, and you still wouldn’t want to hike there in Japanese wooden platform shoes.

But of course, Hawaiians have been going to the volcano for far more than a century. The first Westerners to explore Kīlauea were the missionaries William Ellis and Asa Thurston in 1823. After that, early magazines described Kīlauea’s exotic boiling lava lake and adventurous tourists began to visit.

In the late 19th century, my great-great-great grandfather led visitors up to the volcano from Hilo in a horsedrawn carriage or “hack.” It was a two-day trip, and halfway up, they stopped and stayed the night at a house owned by one of his relatives. Nowadays it’s a quick 46

45-minute drive from downtown Hilo, and less than two hours from downtown Kailua-Kona.

Hawaiian stories convey that the fire goddess Pele migrated from Kahiki to Hawai‘i and created the Hawaiian islands, one by one. Then she settled in on the youngest island at the pit crater Halema‘uma‘u, located within the much larger summit caldera of Kīlauea. This, according to local folklore, explains why Halema‘uma‘u continues to erupt — it’s Madam Pele’s home.

Located at the Halema‘uma‘u Overlook, the Jaggar Museum is a volcanology museum with both scientific and cultural displays. It includes working electronic seismographs and samples of different types of lava and eruption “by-products.”

But there’s much more to the 333,000-acre National Park than just Kīlauea. It also includes the volcano Mauna Loa, considered to be the most massive mountain on earth. It sinks about 20,000 feet below sea level and

volcano again.

For a mile and a half in front of us and half a mile on either side, the floor of the abyss was magnificently illuminated.”

—Mark Twain

(PREVIOUS SPREAD) ©IMAGEBROKER/ALAMY; (THIS PAGE) ©DENNIS FRATES/ALAMY

“I turned my eyes upon the

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with native birds and their birdsong. It’s a kīpuka, an area of older growth that lava spared, leaving an ‘island’ of green vegetation that provides a habitat for animals and birds amid an otherwise inhospitable landscape.

At the Sulphur Banks Trail, near the Volcano Art Center, visitors can easily wander a paved boardwalk where steam hisses up from the ground, and volcanic gases and their sulfur crystals and other minerals colorfully paint the land.

Visitors still stay at Volcano House, a hotel perched at the rim of Halema‘uma‘u Crater with a long history. The current building was preceded by temporary shelters, and then a grass house that the Chiefess Kapi‘olani and her entourage erected in 1824.

In 1846, a Hilo resident put up a small thatched structure, the first to be called “Volcano House.” A more substantial hotel, which Mark Twain stayed at and wrote about in his book “Roughing It in the Sandwich Islands, Hawaii in the 1860s,” went up 20 years later. At

It does indeed snow in Hawai‘i, albeit at a level that’s 2.5 miles above sea level.

Translating to ‘Long Mountain,’ Mauna Kea is the earth’s largest volcano.

©BRYAN LOWRY/ALAMY

rises 13,677 feet above it. When Mauna Loa last erupted in 1984, it came within only four miles of Hilo before stopping. The volcano has been dormant for more than 30 years, its longest period of inactivity in recorded history.

However, volcanologists predict it will erupt again.

More than half of the 500-square-mile Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park is wilderness. Kīlauea Iki is one of the Park’s spectacular hikes. It’s a moderate, two- to three-hour jaunt along a four-mile, well-marked loop trail, which starts along the northern rim of Kīlauea Iki (‘Little Kīlauea’) Crater. It passes through lush rain forests where you see native birds — or at least hear them singing — and then proceeds 400 feet down steps and switchbacks to the crater floor. You pass cinder and spatter cones while hiking across a solid (but still steaming!) crater that contained molten lava in 1959, and then hike back up the other side.

Kīpukapuaulu, a 1.2-mile hike, winds through a mostly shaded, 4,000-year-old closed canopy forest blessed W H E R E G UESTBO O K

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Halema‘uma‘u Crater, Twain observed that, “The smell of sulphur is strong but not unpleasant to a sinner.”

In 1877, a new wooden Volcano House was built.

It was later moved across the way and now houses the Volcano Art Center, which showcases handcrafted art by more than 300 local artists. A two-story, Victorian-style hotel went up next, which burnt to the ground in 1940 — the result of a kitchen fire, surprisingly, not an eruption.

The current Volcano House was built in 1941. It features large floor-to-ceiling glass windows that overlook the crater’s orange glows and often dramatic gas plumes.

Koa rocking chairs rest in front of a massive lava rock fireplace, where a fire usually burns. It’s chilly there at nearly 4,000 feet above sea level.

Over the years, guests at Volcano House have included Hawaiian King David Kalākaua, aviator Amelia Earhart, French microbiologist Louis Pasteur, and authors Isabella Bird, Robert Louis Stevenson and Jack London.

Built in 1928 and descending 3,700 feet, the 19-mile Chain of Craters Road travels through centuries’ worth 50

of diverse-looking lava fields to the sea. Once lined with homes, trails, heiau (temples), agricultural sites and petroglyphs, the coastline is now a patch of solid lava that has blanketed tens of thousands of archaeological sites, a direct result of eruptions at Kīlauea.

However, The Pu‘u Loa (Hill of Long Life) petroglyph field can still be viewed near the ocean end of the road.

Standing on a wooden boardwalk in that quiet landscape, you can almost see Hawaiians of 500 or more years ago creating ki‘i pōhaku (petroglyphs; literally “rock images”).

Many of Pu‘u Loa’s more than 23,000 petroglyphs were carvings where newborns’ piko (umbilical cords) were left to ensure a long life. Others are thought to have recorded travel around the island, and communicated past and current events.

It’s as if the people who came here were speaking to us, leaving us their memories, sending us messages from the past. There, in that stark lava landscape that seems very far from the 21st century, you can almost hear them — or at least the clack of my grandma’s wooden geta.

©REGULA HEEB-ZWEIFEL/ALAMY

The Chain of Craters Road winds along for 19 miles through the eastern rift zone and the scenic coastal area of the Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park.

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THE ADVENTURES OF MARK TWAIN “The greater part of the vast floor of the desert under us was as black as ink, and apparently smooth and level; but over a mile square of it was ringed and streaked and striped with a thousand branching streams of liquid and gorgeously brilliant fire!” –Mark Twain

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Back in 1866, California-based journalist Samuel Langhorne Clemens spent four months and a day exploring the Sandwich Islands, as he persisted in calling this archipelago, exploring for nearly three weeks Hawai‘i Island’s vast landscape. He arrived in Kona from Honolulu by way of a small, inter-island steamer.

“The Boomerang was about as long as two street cars, and about as wide as one,” Clemens wrote in one of his 25 dispatches for the Sacramento Union. This was the tail end of Twain’s journalism days. He had just started using his famous pen name, but it would be nearly 20 years before The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn would publish.

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When Mark Twain arrived at Kealakekua Bay, he was greeted by bright sunlight and a rainbow, leading him to question why Captain Cook had not called Hawai‘i the “Rainbow Islands.”

(THIS PAGE) ©2006 PETE ORELUP

footsteps. And you don’t need a horse. These days, not even passage on an inter-island steamer is necessary. Thankfully.

“We landed at Kailua (pronounced Ki-loo-ah), a little collection of native grass houses reposing under tall cocoanut trees — the sleepiest, quietest, Sundayest looking place you can imagine,” Twain wrote.

The Hannibal, Missouri, native didn’t dawdle in town.

He took note of nearby ruins of a heaiu, and then, he and his friend Brown — who turned out to be a fictitious travel companion — rented horses and passed through groves of lush trees 1,000 feet above sea level. They may have stopped at Greenwell Farms, one of the early plantations in the area, for Twain made the prescient statement, “I think the Kona coffee has a richer flavor than any other, be it grown where it may and call it by what name you please.”

To reach Kealakekua Bay, Twain and Brown likely followed cooled lava flows to the sea along King’s Trail.

(PREVIOUS PAGES) ©ROBERT BUSH/ALAMY; ©PICTORIAL PRESS LTD/ALAMY;

Twain devoted seven letters to Hawai‘i Island, and these are some of his more entertaining pieces, evocative of the fiction to eventually flow from his pencil. Days before departing for the Hawaiian Islands, he had written his mother that he had planned to “…ransack the islands, the great cataracts & the volcanoes completely….”

And he did. In spectacular fashion. He arrived exhausted and fed up with newspaper journalism. He was in need of a vacation, but even though he often called himself the laziest man in the world, in Hawai‘i, he hardly sat long enough to enjoy a sunset on the beach. On Hawai‘i Island, the then little-known scribbler rode horseback counter-clockwise around the island. He rode hard. Too hard, in fact. By the time he returned to Honolulu, he would retire to bed riddled with saddle sores.

While much has changed in Hawai‘i since Twain’s visit, much hasn’t. It’s easy to follow in the famous author’s W H E R E G UESTBO O K

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Twain traveled extensively throughout Hawai‘i Island on horseback, visiting such places as Hōnaunau, Ka‘u and Kīlauea, and encountering along the way isolated beaches and waterfalls.

Twain’s letters from Hawai‘i aren’t literary masterpieces.

But they are evidence of a literary master in his early incarnation, employing the use of humor, hyperbole, satire, sarcasm, criticism and description.

By the time Twain reached the spot where explorer Captain Cook lost his life, “The setting sun was flaming upon it, a summer shower was falling, and it was spanned by two magnificent rainbows.” And Twain asked, “Why did not Captain Cook have taste enough to call his great discovery the Rainbow Islands?”

At Hōnaunau, Twain and Brown hopped aboard the Emeline and, after a rough passage, disembarked in the district of Ka‘u. Now, Twain set his sights on the real pinnacle of his visit to Hawai‘i Island: Kīlauea. Like most hikers, Twain arrived atop the shield volcano during daylight hours — not Kīlauea’s most dramatic time. “Only a considerable hole in the ground,” Twain wrote initially. But

after dinner, he returned and remarked, “We had circles and serpents and streaks of lightning all twined and wreathed and tied together, without a break throughout an area more than a mile square … and it was with a feeling of placid exultation that we reflected that many years had elapsed since any visitor had seen such a splendid display….”

Then, as today, Kīlauea had moments of exuberance, and it seems Twain happened to time his visit just right.

After four months in the Islands, Twain would return to San Francisco and be inspired to give talks about his visit, including in bold print on a handbill promoting the event, “The great VOLCANO OF KILAUEA will also receive proper attention.”

Of Kīlauea, Twain descriptively wrote, “It is the largest live volcano in the world; shoots up flames tremendously high. You witness a scene of unrivaled sublimity; and witness the most astonishing sights.”

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ISLAND VIEWS In size and manner, Hawai‘i Island is majestic: the ‘Big Island,’ as it’s appropriately nicknamed, is larger than all the other Hawaiian Islands combined and has at its core one of the most active volcanoes on the planet.

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Kohala Coast

The chiefs of old once retreated to the bays and fishponds of this coastline for food and replenishment. Modern resorts have since greened the stark lava coastline, and well-preserved petroglyph fields (PuakĹ? Petroglyph Archaeological Preserve) coexist with contemporary amenities. Sun-seekers arrive from all over the world to enjoy the beaches, shops, galleries and three championship golf courses.

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Hilo

On a clear day, the seasonal snow-capped summit of Mauna Kea stands in stark contrast to the azure blue waves that break crisply in Hilo Bay. Receiving an average of 140 inches of rain per year, Hilo offers abundant foliage and waterfalls. Mom-andpop stores are tucked among educational and historical gems. Be sure to visit the colorful Hilo Farmers Market, the Pacific Tsunami Museum and the Lyman Mission House & Museum.

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Waimea

This is paniolo (cowboy) country where rolling pastures are mystically shrouded with the upcountry mists. While Waimea is the town’s older name, Kamuela came into use in the early 20th century, when the postal service needed to distinguish this town from other names throughout Hawai‘i. The postmaster’s name, Samuel, was adopted in its Hawaiian form, and Waimea acquired its nickname: Kamuela. Parker Ranch, one of the oldest cattle ranches in the country, is a Waimea signature, and so is Mauna Kea.

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ISLAND VIEWS

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Waipi‘o Valley

Meaning ‘curved water,’ Waipi‘o spans a mile wide at the coast and almost six miles deep. Set amid 2,000-foot-high cliffs, the area was the boyhood home of King Kamehameha I, and the epicenter for political and religious life on Hawai‘i Island.

Today, fewer than 100 people reside here, living among the cascading waterfalls, verdant taro fields and rivers that permeate the valley. Guided hikes are recommended.

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Mauna Kea

This massive mountain thrusts its summit 13,796 feet into the atmosphere, making it one of the planet’s best venues for stargazing. Many nations have built observation stations on this pinnacle, with 13 telescopes from 11 countries in operation.

There is a visitor center at the 9,300-foot level, and four-wheel-drive or special arrangements are required. Warning: Many visitors can experience altitude sickness, and the weather can turn chillingly cold very quickly.

©TOSHI SASAKI/MEDIABAKERY; ©DOUGLAS PEEBLES/GETTYIMAGES

ISLAND VIEWS

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Hula Huddle CENTURIES AGO, WHEN GODS AND PEOPLE SHARED THESE ISLANDS AND TIME WAS MEASURED BY THE WAXING AND WANING OF THE MOON, THE HULA WAS BORN. THERE ARE TWO TYPES OF HULA PRACTICED TODAY: KAHIKO, OR ANCIENT HULA, AND ‘AUANA, MODERN HULA SET TO MUSIC.

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PARTING SHOT

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