Makena February 2014

makena F e b - J u l 2 0 1 4 | M A K E N A BE A C H & G O L F R E S O R T

MAGAZINE

Misty rains and the lehua flower forever in love Holding hands in the uplands high above Morning showers, sunrise and flowers and skies of blue Birds in love sing and mountains all covered with dew Tradewinds send the lovers a greeting with a sigh And clouds drifting by in a rainbow colored sky Guardian angels watching over from heaven above Say the two will forever remain in love —MISTY RAINS & LEHUA (LYRICS BY MADDY LAM, 1910) PHOTO BY CHRIS JOHNS/GETTY IMAGES

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MAKENA

Welcome to

MAKENA BEACH & GOLF RESORT

Maui, Makena state park, oneloa or Big beach, Štomas del amo/getty images

makena makena beach & golf resort / maui, hawai‘i

VOLUME 2 / NUMBER 1 /

contents FEATURES

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PEACEFUL REFUGE The spiritual heart of Makena for 181 years, the lovely Keawala‘i Congregational Church has stayed true to its mission through changing and challenging times.

BY TERI FREITAS GORMAN

COVER STORY

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AN ENCHANTING DAY The fragrance of tropical flowers, the gently lapping waters of the Pacific, palm trees swaying in the warm wind—there is no more romantic place for a wedding than Maui.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANNA KIM

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ARTFUL ATTIRE Stephanie Sachs’ unique clothing line is inspired by the infinite hues of the island’s flora, skies and ocean.

BY BONNIE FRIEDMAN

COVER CREDIT

©Anna Kim Photography 4 MAKENA

contents DEPARTMENTS

/ M A K E N A B E AC H & G O L F R E S O R T / M AU I , H AWA I ‘ I

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EDITOR’S NOTE

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PROFILE

O LUCKY MAN!

Bartender Lucky Echiverri is a natural at making people smile.

BY VANESSA WOLF

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INDULGENCES

Monthly culinary events offer the chance to indulge one’s inner foodie.

THE OUTRIGGER EXPERIENCE

THE BEST IN FOOD & WINE

This exploration of the waters off Makena is both a recreational and a cultural adventure.

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SENSE OF PLACE

The Hōkūle‘a’s mission of peace starts at home in Hawai‘i.

LEI AROUND THE WORLD

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ISLAND EMBRACE

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EDITOR’S NOTE

Here all seeking is over The lost has been found A mate has been found To share the chills of winter – That you be united Here is a place to rest A place to sleep, a place in heaven. Now two are becoming one, the black night is scattered The Eastern sky grows bright, at last the great day has come —HAWAIIAN WEDDING BLESSING

A Deeper Sense of History is its full embrace of its long history and deep-rooted traditions. Whether in the arts, cuisine, ocean expertise or land-use practices, a reverence for the Hawaiian culture and the environment that has nourished it for centuries is paramount in daily life in the islands. This is particularly true at Makena, an area with a history that reaches back to ancient times, when Polynesian voyagers first settled along these shores, supporting themselves by fishing and later through farming in the Upcountry. Only traces of those first settlements remain, but many of the core values those people held dear—such as respecting the land and sea—are still practiced today. This issue of Makena magazine highlights several of those themes, including an article on the recent visit to Makena by the beloved sailing canoe Hōkūle‘a in anticipation of its roundthe-world voyage to deliver a message of peace to all people. The crew’s stated mission is “to weave a lei around the world” and to chart a new course toward a healthier and more sustainable horizon for all humankind. We are also honored to present an article on the Keawala‘i Congregational Church. Founded in a small, pili-grass structure in 1832 near Makena Landing, the church, now a sturdy building with three-foot-thick lava rock walls, has steadfastly remained a “peaceful haven” (the translation of its Hawaiian name) for its congregations and visitors for more than 180 years. “Our mission is to share aloha from generation to generation,” says Reverend Kealahou Alika, and anyone who visits will experience first-hand the peaceful aloha of the now-iconic church. And while the history and culture of Makena is readily at hand for guests of Makena Beach & Golf Resort, so too are all the modern-day luxuries and amenities that today’s knowledgeable travelers expect. If you enjoy food and wine explorations, for example, Makena Resort offers three events monthly that will excite your inner foodie: a Winemaker’s Dinner, a Wine Education Series and the brand-new Liquid Chef events, where innovative food-and-spirits pairings are explored. And is there a more romantic place than Maui to get married? Check out our article on how Makena Beach & Golf Resort can make your weddings in paradise a dream come true. Finally, it is often the people you meet when traveling who make the greatest impression. And as anyone who has encountered Makena Resort’s charismatic poolside bartender Lucky Echiverri will attest, the impression he leaves you with is a big smile and a happy memory. We invite you to enjoy the profile of him in these pages, then venture over to the poolside bar and ask Lucky to mix you one of Maui’s best Mai Tais. Both Lucky and his Mai Tai will surely put a big smile on your face. —George Fuller MAKENA

One of the many things that sets Hawai‘i apart for both visitors and residents Now love asks

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COURTESY OF MAKENA BEACH & GOLF RESORT

makena beach & golf resort / maui, hawai'i

makena Regional Vice President and Publisher Patti Ruesch patti.ruesch@morris.com Account Managers Debbie DeMello promedia@hula.net Design Director Jane Frey

ADVE RTIS IN G Group Publisher Kathleen M. Pahinui kathleen.pahinui@morris.com

E D ITO RIAL Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Senior Regional Editorial Director Margaret Martin

Wanda Garcia-Fetherston wanda@insidemedia.org Bob Kowal robert.kowal@morris.com Sales Coordinator Kaitlyn Murphy kaitlyn.murphy@morris.com Advertising Sales (808) 955-2378 E XE C U TIVE President Donna W. Kessler Vice President of Operations Angela E. Allen P RO D U C TIO N Director of Production Kris Miller Product Manager Jasond Fernandez Production Manager Brittany L. Kevan Retouching Jerry Hartman

Photography Director Susan Strayer Editor George Fuller Art Director Michelle Theis Contributing Writers Teri Freitas Gorman, Bonnie Friedman, Shannon Wianecki, Vanessa Wolf Contributing Photographers Ron Dahlquist, Sue Hudelson, Anna Kim, Nina Kuna, Tony Novak-Clifford MANUFACTURING & TE C H N O LO GY Director of Manufacturing Donald Horton Technical Operations Manager Tony Thorne-Booth

M orris Communications Chairman & CEO William S. Morris III President William S. Morris IV

Makena Magazine (Vol. 2, No. 1) is published by Where Hawaii, 1833 Kalakaua Ave, Ste. 810, Honolulu, HI 96815 CopyrightŠ 2014 by Morris Visitor Publications. All rights reserved. This publication may not be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, in whole or in part, without the express prior written permission of the publisher. The publisher assumes no responsibility to any party for the content of any advertisement in this publication, including any errors and omissions therein. By placing an order for an advertisement, the advertiser agrees to indemnify the publisher against any claims relating to the advertisement.

MVP is a proud sponsor of Les Clefs d’Or USA

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P R O F I L E / T E X T BY VAN E S SA WO L F / P H OTO G R A P H Y BY N I N A K U N A

O Lucky Man! Makena Resort’s longtime poolside bartender is a natural at making people smile tanding quietly in the elevator, flanked by her parents, the sunburned little girl read the nametag on the bartender’s shirt. “Lucky!” she exclaimed happily. Without missing a beat, Lucky Echiverri broke into a broad smile, bent down and gave her an enthusiastic high five. While they talked, other resort guests recognized the perpetually cheerful bartender and came up to chat. Echiverri has worked at Makena Beach & Golf Resort for more than 26 years and wouldn’t have it any other way. He started out as a steward, but was asked to try his hand at bartending. Back then he didn’t know the first thing about mixing drinks. “I only knew beer … I think I drank Löwenbrau,” he remembers with a laugh. He’s come a long way since then. In 1995 he was called into the food and beverage director’s office. “I thought I was in trouble,” he says, “or received a bad guest comment card.” Rather, he was asked to create an original drink for an international blended-drink competition that was to be held in Japan. “I was to make two versions,” he says, “one with alcohol and one virgin. I had three weeks to invent it, perfect it and present it to the executive office.” When he returned to his shift at the bar, he noticed guests feeding the koi and inspiration struck. “I thought to myself, ‘I wonder if I can create a drink that looks like those beautiful, swirling fish?’” Thus was born the Dancing Koi, made with mango purée, passion orange juice, sweet and sour, and rum, blended and poured into a strawberry-purée-and-ice-cream swirl. “Everybody hears ice cream and they panic,” Lucky notes, “but we only use a little. It’s not a milkshake. I add just a touch for flavoring and color.” (For Lucky’s Dancing Koi recipe, please turn to page 15.) The combination is exceptional. Not only has Lucky captured the visual aspect of the vibrant fish, but the combination explodes with fresh fruit flavor. The competition judges agreed. There were 1,200 bartenders from around the world competing, and Lucky’s Dancing Koi took second place. But that winning libation is not all he serves. “I love making

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He’s something of a celebrity at Makena, and guests come up to him all over the resort to chat or say hello.

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PROFILE

“I thought to myself, ‘I wonder if I can create a drink that looks like those beautiful, swirling fish?’”

tropical drinks,” Lucky says. “In a lot of places, the bartenders don’t want to make them: they want to do martinis or things like that. I love doing it, and I believe it’s what the guests want when they come to Hawai‘i.” A pro at pool bar standbys—Lucky makes Piña Coladas, Lava Flows and Blue Hawaiis by the hundreds—he’s also known for his Mai Tais. “According to comment cards, people come to the resort specifically for my Mai Tai,” he says proudly. “They say it’s one of the best on Maui.” With all that fanfare, you might think he’d be protective about the recipe, but not in the least. “There is a video with the recipe on YouTube. It’s exactly how I do it, but some people say it’s not the same as when I make it. The main part is the ingredients, so maybe they just can’t get the same stuff I use.” Beyond his skills with the blender, Lucky is renowned for his ceaselessly cheerful personality. “When I was 14 MAKENA

growing up, my grandfather always told me, ‘Be happy every day, every second, every minute, because tomorrow you may not see the light.’ So every day I smile and have fun … every day I try to make people happy.” He’s a natural at it. He’s something of a celebrity at Makena, and guests come up to him all over the resort to chat or say hello. Lucky’s delighted reception isn’t just for show: he clearly remembers and is happy to see each and every one of them. When a couple stops by briefly and then moves on, he leans over to explain, “They’re from Indiana, by the way.” Asked whether Lucky is his given name or a nickname, he grows uncharacteristically shy. “Lucky is my given name. At birth I almost didn’t make it, so my parents named me Lucky.” Lucky for us all he not only survived but found a place to thrive, and the world is a better place for it.

DA N C I N G KO I Lucky Echiverri’s award-winning cocktail is a burst of color and flavor Many bartenders hold on tightly to the secret of their success. They won’t divulge their recipes, or they may provide all but one key ingredient. But Lucky Echiverri is happy to share his recipe for Dancing Koi, the cocktail that earned him second place among 1,200 bartenders in an international competition. Capturing both the colors and movement of koi, the recipe incorporates the hues of orange, passion fruit, mango and strawberry with the near-white of vanilla ice cream, blended in such a way as to imitate the swirling motion of the fish as they gently swim in a pond. Now, when guests return home from their visit to Makena Beach & Golf Resort, they can try their hand at re-creating Lucky’s masterpiece and savor the memory of lounging poolside, sipping the delicious and refreshing libation inspired by the beautiful fish. Dancing Koi Mix in blender with crushed ice • 1 oz. passion orange juice • 2 oz. mango • ½ oz. sweet & sour • 1¼ oz. light rum

• ½ oz. strawberry purée and • ½ oz. vanilla ice cream

Blend and pour into glass with

Serve in a 12-oz. cup. Garnish with a cherry/pineapple wedge. Hipahipa (Cheers)!

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I N D U L G E N C E S / T E X T BY VA N E S S A W O L F / P H OTO G R A P H Y BY TO NY N O VA K- C L IF F O RD

Three monthly culinary events offer resort guests the chance to indulge their inner foodie

The Best in Food & Wine

ver the past two decades, Maui has gained a reputation as a hot spot for inspired chefs, imaginative cuisine and renowned wine festivals and events. That burgeoning trend is experienced in full force at Makena Beach & Golf Resort, where three times a month your inner foodie can be thoroughly indulged. Choose from the exemplary Winemaker’s Dinner, Wine Education Series or Liquid Chef events and prepare to broaden your mind, palate and expectations. The monthly Winemaker’s Dinner features the wines of a celebrated vintner paired with extraordinary local cuisine. Makena’s Food and Beverage Director, Leo Mallari, has a rich background in crafting such events and brings his expertise fully to bear on this dinner series. “What makes this offering unique is that we handpick the wineries and bring in the winemaker or a winery representa-

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tive,” Mallari explains. “Guests can anticipate great wines, great food and great value.” Seated at intimate tables of four to eight, attendees meet other guests and local foodies while dining on five or six courses of delights such as Kona lobster and crab salad with baby heirloom tomatoes, avocado and blue​ berries, or braised veal cheek with English cheddar potatoes au gratin. Recent guest winemaker Gary Burk of Costa de Oro Winery in Santa Maria, Calif., says he was struck by the beautiful surroundings and the high caliber of the food. “It’s apparent that the chef and the staff take a lot of pride in making this special,” he says. “Most venues shoot for this, but Makena Beach & Golf Resort really pulls it off. “This is a fantastic opportunity for individuals to get a real understanding of what the winemaker intended,” Burk continues. “Is it meant to be a large, extracted, mouthcoating wine? Or a more elegant and refined version of

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INDULGENCES

“What you get is a history lesson, a geology lesson and a chemistry lesson in terms of the actual winemaking.”

—MASTER SOMMELIER PATRICK OKUBO

the grape? With the winemaker present, attendees can ask specific questions, which I believe contributes to the enjoyment of the experience.” If you want to delve more deeply into the art of food preparation, try the monthly Wine Education events co-hosted by Executive Chef Marc McDowell and Master Sommelier Patrick Okubo (pictured above right), one of only two master sommeliers in Hawai‘i and the second youngest in the world. “It’s not just food, it’s not just wine … it’s education,” Okubo says. “Chef Marc demonstrates the preparation of at least one dish and sometimes even all three. You can ask him questions as he’s creating. It’s like a cooking show, only you get to interact and taste the dishes as well.” In addition to the demonstration, recipe cards for the three courses—dishes such as quail smoked in black tea— are provided. Your newfound knowledge won’t be limited to a top-notch cooking trick or two, either. “There is always a theme that ties the wines and the food together,” Okubo says. “What you get is a history lesson, a geology lesson and a chemistry lesson in terms of the actual winemaking.” Although Chef McDowell’s expertise is unparalleled in 18 MAKENA

the kitchen, Okubo plays an important role in the food pairings. “Patrick’s knowledge about the compositions of wine and food and how they work together is unbelievable,” Mallari (pictured above left) says. “After a year of doing the pairings, nothing has been off base. “Once he asked for a dill steak and was very specific as to how it should be prepared. Chef Marc and I were a little skeptical, so he cooked two: a dill steak with olive oil and another with his secret herbs. When we tasted both, the dill steak had an unusual flavor, while Chef's own recipe was outstanding. “Then I said, ‘Let’s taste it with the wine Patrick has it paired with,’ and sure enough, the dill steak was a perfect match. Chef ’s steak did not really go with the wine.” With a laugh, Mallari admits, “Since that day, we have never questioned Patrick, and we always look forward to his recommendations.” Makena’s latest offering is the Liquid Chef series. This new event features a different spirit each month. Appetizers are prepared at chef action stations while a master distiller talks about the spirit-making process and a mixologist teaches attendees how to make handcrafted cocktails at home. “We want to continue the food, wine and spirits buzz here at Makena,” Mallari explains. “The Liquid Chef series will be something different and a little more casual. Between the three offerings each month, our guests can really get their foodie on at Makena these days!”

I N D U L G E N C E S / TE X T BY G E O R G E F U L L E R / P H OTO G R A P H Y BY TO NY N O VA K- C L IF F O RD

The Outrigger Experience This two-hour adventure is a must for visitors to Makena Beach & Golf Resort awai‘i’s original settlers traveled thousands of miles across the Pacific in doublehulled sailing canoes to reach these shores, navigating by the stars and reading the winds and sea to gauge their position. Their reverence for the ocean is legendary and is still a primary influence on the lives of Hawai‘i’s residents today. Visitors to Makena can have an outrigger canoe experience of their own, complete with chanting, paddling, snorkeling and cultural exploration. The two-hour Hawaiian Outrigger Experience provides a fun and educational opportunity to learn about Hawaiian culture, values, traditions, ocean protocol and Maui’s endangered wildlife and reefs. The morning begins with the group chanting E Ala E, a traditional Hawaiian chant that speaks of the rising sun. That is 20 MAKENA

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followed by an ocean paddle to historic Keawala‘i Church and a discussion of the arrival of the missionaries to Makena; a tour of Loko I‘a fishpond and a visit to Makena Landing, where Upcountry ranchers used to drive their cattle into the surf and onto waiting ships for transport to markets on the mainland. Participants then jump into the water for an hour of snorkeling at Makena’s famed Turtle Town before returning to Maluaka Beach. “For many of our guests, the outrigger canoe tour is not on their must-do list prior to coming to Maui, but those who take a chance on our Outrigger Canoe Experience say it is the best thing they did their entire trip,” says Beach Recreations Supervisor Monique Nelson. “This is really one of the best activities that someone can participate in while in Hawai‘i.”

S E N S E O F P L A C E / T E X T BY S H A N N O N W I A N E C K I

Lei Around the

Hokule‘a’s mission of peace starts at home in Hawai‘i

World

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n March 1976, when Hōkūle‘a set sail on its maiden voyage from Hawai‘i to Tahiti, the ship’s crew sought no less than to travel back in time and rewrite history. The plan, dreamt up by the fledgling Polynesian Voyaging Society, was to re-create a double-hulled canoe—the historic vessel of Polynesian sailors—and sail it 2,500 miles across the open ocean, relying on ancient navigational techniques. No modern instruments. The crew would plot its course as the first Hawaiians had: using the stars, birds, winds and ocean currents as guides. At that time, most historians discounted Polynesian wayfinding methods as too rudimentary for long-distance voyages and the canoes as too flimsy. The prevailing theory was that Pacific Islanders had discovered Hawai‘i by accident, not by intention. It’s true that little evidence existed to show otherwise. The great canoes of the past had long since vanished and their steersmen along with them—mostly. A handful of master navigators, whose method of sailing by the stars and swells closely mirrored the extinct Polynesian methods, still lived in Micronesia. One of these masters, Mau Piailug, a visionary palu (navigator) from the remote island of Satawal, agreed to teach the Hawaiians their lost art and guide their boat. When Hōkūle‘a successfully made its 1976 landfall in Tahiti, it confirmed Pacific Islanders’ place among humankind’s greatest explorers. It showed that throughout the Middle Ages, while Western sailors still clung to the edges of continents, Polynesians were capable of crisscrossing the planet’s largest ocean and zeroing in on tiny islands in its center. The validation of this fact sparked a fire in the hearts of indigenous islanders across the vast Pacific. They reclaimed their identity as a sophisticated, powerful people with unique wisdom to offer the world. That was the first of Hōkūle‘a’s journeys. In the decades since, Hōkūle‘a has made many more historic landfalls, serving as an icon for the Hawaiian people and a symbol of their courage, skill and resilience, and helping spread renewed interest in Polynesian navigation and boat-building from Hawai‘i to Samoa, Tonga, Fiji, New Zealand and beyond. In May 2014, Hōkūle‘a will embark on its most ambitious adventure yet: a round-the-world peace delegation. This time, its crew hopes to rewrite the future. The crew’s stated mission is “to weave a lei around the world,” and to chart a new course toward a healthier and more sustainable horizon for all of humankind. It’s a lofty goal that the sailors hope to fulfill by collaborating with political leaders, scientists, educators and schoolchildren in each of the ports they visit, as well as engaging the broader global community via the Internet. Hōkūle‘a, along with a companion canoe, Hikianalia, will sail east, passing through the South Pacific, Australia and Southeast Asia to Africa, South America and eventually back to Hawai‘i. The canoes will travel for three years, visiting 61 ports in 21 countries.

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Malama Maui In preparation for this epic journey, Hōkūle‘a and Hikianalia recently spent five months touring their home state. They sailed around the Hawaiian archipelago, connecting with local elders, soaking up the mana (life force) present in each community and sharing a vision of a peaceful, sustainable future. Last August, the canoes paid a special visit to Makena, Maui’s southernmost coastal community. Local families lined Maluaka Beach in anticipation of the ships’ arrival, eager to see the historic vessels and wish the crews safe passage. The winds were still that day, which slowed the canoes’ progress. Finally, in late afternoon, their masts appeared on the horizon. The tantalizing specks grew larger with each surge of the tide. The children, who’d been waiting half the day for this moment, leapt onto the wet sand and blew their conch shells with all their might. As the visiting captains and sailors came ashore, the small crowd welcomed them in the traditional way: with nose-to-nose greetings and ti-leaf lei. Uncle Les Kulolo‘io (pictured above, top right photo, in blue shirt) orchestrated the visit. The 73-year-old kupuna (elder) was an appropriate conduit between the canoes and the Makena community. His family traces ties to the area back several generations; he learned to swim in these waters—the same his grandson was baptized in. A vocal advocate for Hawaiian rights and the preservation of marine 24 MAKENA

resources, Kulolo‘io has represented the nearby island of Kaho‘olawe on the state’s ‘Aha Kiole advisory committee since 2007. When Hōkūle‘a visited that island’s uninhabited shore, it was Kulolo‘io’s job to show the captain to safe moorings. Like many of those gathered, he views the oceanvoyaging canoe as an extension of himself and his family. “We need the Hōkūle‘a,” Kulolo‘io says. “We’re an ocean people. We’re islanders and our home is in the water. We’ve spent too long on the land.” The Makena Beach & Golf Resort had prepared a feast for the visiting ships’ crews. The group formed a procession from the beach up to the lawn. Chanting in Hawaiian, they walked barefoot along a remnant of the ancient King’s Highway—a trail built during the reign of Pi‘ilani, Maui’s 16th-century ruler, that once circled the island. “As they walked,” Kulolo‘io says, “their feet made contact with the elders of this place who’ve passed away. They could feel their ancestors, too, wherever they had come from.” “Hōkūle‘a is Hawai‘i’s canoe,” says Bruce Blankenfeld, a navigator and the director of the upcoming worldwide voyage. “It was built with that vision in mind in 1976 … When the canoe sails, it’s not Hōkūle‘a sailing with a crew … it’s all of Hawai‘i sailing with Hōkūle‘a.” The canoes’ historic voyage will conclude in 2017 with another tour of the Hawaiian Islands. Hōkūle‘a and Hikianalia will share the gifts they gathered abroad and reinforce the ties that bind all the world’s ocean-faring peoples. Once again, the people of Makena will be waiting to receive them.

COURTESY OF MAKENA BEACH & GOLF RESORT

SENSE OF PLACE

Coming Full Circle The Expanding Mission of the Polynesian Voyaging Society Founded in 1973, the Polynesian Voyaging Society set out to solve a scientific mystery: How did the ancient Polynesians, without navigational instruments, cross 2,500 miles of ocean? To solve this mystery, the society built the Hōkūle‘a and launched it on its maiden voyage, to Tahiti, in 1976. This trip not only resolved the scientific question but also inaugurated renewed interest in Hawaiian traditions and culture, from language and art to music and dance. With each succeeding voyage, the Hōkūle‘a’s value not only as a scientific and cultural asset but as an educational one grew, as did the mission of the Polynesian Voyaging Society. In 1992, the ship’s journey to Rarotonga was billed as No Na Mamo (For the Children), A Voyage for Education. As a result, a curriculum was developed jointly by the Polynesian Voyaging Society and teachers that included lessons in language and culture for a new generation of Polynesians. Another partnership developed when the Hōkūle‘a traveled to Papahānaumokuākea, the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands, in 2003 and 2004 and explored the pristine coral reefs there, comparing them to reefs in other parts of Hawai‘i that had deteriorated over the years. This voyage inspired cultural and environmental organizations and state and federal agencies to join together to create awareness of and find solutions to Hawai‘i’s ecological problems and those of the world. As the Hōkūle‘a and its sister ship the Hikianalia prepare to embark on their worldwide tour in May 2014, the Polynesian Voyaging Society takes on another role, that of ambassador, promoting the preservation of culture and traditions; respect for the environment, for children and for elders and ancestry; healing and world peace.

PEACEFUL REFUGE K E AW A L A ‘ I C H U R C H S TAY S T R U E T O ITS MISSION THROUGH CHANGING TIMES text by TERI FREITAS GORMAN photography by RON DAHLQUIST

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A small group of tourists wanders around the tranquil graveyard at Keawala‘i Congregational Church. They speak in subdued voices and simultaneously document their visit with cell-phone cameras. A young blond woman smiles and poses next to a headstone. A solitary sign stands guard over the burial grounds. We invite you to view our cemetery. We ask that you honor and respect our kupuna. Please do not step or sit on the gravesites. Mahalo! Keawala‘i ‘Ohana.

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The names on the gravestones—Auweloa, Ehupili, Ka‘awa‘apahu, Mahoe, Makuahine, Kapohakimohewa, Kukahiko, Kalahanohano, Lu‘uwai—give little more information than name, birth date and death date. Yet even this limited data tells a clear story of change, reminding us that not so long ago, almost all of the members of this picturesque church were Native Hawaiians. “Our story is one of huliau, turning points, times of change,” explains Reverend Kealahou Alika. We meet in his modest office crammed with papers, books, photographs and a colorful cascade of handmade yarn lei draped over a chair. Clad in a faded aloha shirt and jeans, he looks more like a familiar neighbor than a man of the cloth. “There were many hard times, but this church is here now because the kūpuna (ancestors) never gave up.” Keawala‘i Church has been the spiritual heart of Makena for 181 years. Founded in 1832 by American missionaries from New England, this little place of worship began as a pili grass house. Its original name, the Church of Honua‘ula, reflected its location within the moku (island district) of the same name.

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Between 1857 and 1858 the church was reconstructed with lava rock secured by pulverized white coral mortar called puna. Native ‘ōhi‘a wood formed the gable, church ceiling and roof. To season the wood, the beams were soaked for two weeks in the bay off Makena Landing. The minister, Nueku, laid the cornerstone at the right corner of the church, sealing beneath it a Bible and hymnal. According to a May 1858 report made by missionary William P. Alexander, there were 242 church members “in regular standing” that year. A proper American church bell, purchased with Sunday school donations, was installed in the belfry in February 1862.

C L I M AT E C H A N G E A N D S O C I A L C H A N G E

Honua‘ula families had long supported themselves by fishing, cultivating upland forests and farming until the loss of forests during the sandalwood trades triggered irreversible climate change. No trees mauka (on the mountain) meant less rainfall, longer droughts, parched farms and widespread famine. By the late 1800s it was evident that south Maui’s dried-

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“Our story is one of huliau, turning points, times of change,” explains Reverend Kealahou Alika. out earth would never again produce sufficient food for its residents. Area farmers were forced to move elsewhere on the island. A regional exodus combined with the measles epidemic of 1884 would reduce congregation numbers by two-thirds to just 90 souls by 1891. Women and children filled most of the pews and the structure fell into disrepair. Despite these hurdles, the struggling community rallied together to make much-needed improvements. A 1908 report by the Hawaiian Evangelical Association describes how the congregants’ exceptional generosity funded a new roof, ceiling and bell tower. “At Makena . . . about $1,000 have been expended in repairing an old stone house of worship built in 1825 (sic). Here the people live largely by fishing, and often after a good haul, they gather in the church and generously give to the Lord’s treasury. A stranger would be astonished by the lavish gifts these poor people bestow upon their church.” When it was rededicated on August 16, 1908, the Church at Honua‘ula was also called the Church at Mākena, the Church at Ka‘eo and Keawakapu Church.

WO R L D WA R I I A N D A N E W N A M E

peaceful haven” or “the bay in front.” The reason behind the switch is unclear, but a 1927 letter published in the Hawaiian language newspaper Kuokoa refers to the Sunday school at Makena as Kula Sabati o Kawala‘i.

R E N O VAT I O N , R E D E D I C AT I O N A N D RESORT DEVELOPMENT

During World War II, Maui was transformed into a military staging area. At the war’s peak, troops outnumbered island residents three to one. Several church treasures “disappeared” during that time. Hawaiian language hymnals, written history records and priceless brass whale oil chandeliers were presumably taken as souvenirs. King Kalākaua had gifted the chandeliers to the church while passing through Makena on his way to one of his many visits to Rose Ranch in ‘Ulupalakua. Kahu Alika explains that during the 1970s, while cleaning, some church volunteers discovered two of the missing chandeliers in a secret storage area under the altar. One of the couples took the lamps home for safekeeping. Several years later, their daughter, who lived on the mainland, inherited one of the lamps. She decided it would not be right to keep it. Kahu pauses the story, breaks into a wide smile and leans over to open a wooden cabinet door below his bookcase. “We got it back,” he says, showing the prized antique with pride. A year before the war’s end, on July 31, 1944, thenpastor George M. Kauaulalena officially changed the church name to Keawala‘i. Its English translation is “the

By the 1950s, the church was in need of another renovation. Volunteers rolled up their sleeves and refurbished and repainted the building inside and out. Generous donors provided new altar furniture, English hymnals and English-Hawaiian New Testaments. Kahu Abraham Akaka rededicated Keawala‘i on May 25, 1952. During the 1960s and 1970s several structural repairs were made to the belfry, roof, rafters and trusses. Later, doors were replaced and floors and walls painted. On August 1, 1986, Keawala‘i Church encountered a new kind of change when the Maui Prince resort (today’s Makena Beach & Golf Resort) opened within walking distance. Tourism would introduce a new social dynamic that would require the skills and sensitivity of a pastor who could successfully bridge two different worlds. In 1991 Kealakekua native Kealahou Alika was selected to lead the Keawala‘i ‘ohana through another exceptional transition. “It was important to me when I first arrived to make a commitment to the people and to this place,” Kahu Alika recalls. “It is such a cliché to talk about sense of place, but that is how we feel about Keawala‘i. There is a deep attachment to this place and its history. Our mission is to share aloha from generation to generation. But there is always tension between keeping our Hawaiian roots while understanding the church is universal. Our challenge has been, and continues to be, one of finding the right balance. How do we keep our Hawaiian expression while welcoming all?” Today, gated communities and beachfront mansions dot the Makena landscape. The congregation has grown and changed. But Keawala‘i Church remains standing as it has for the past 181 years. The iwi kūpuna (ancestral bones) resting beside their beloved church continue to keep watch over all who come to this uncommon refuge of peace and beauty. Yes, even those who come with cellphone cameras.

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A N E N C H A N T I N G D AY W E D D I N G S I N A N I S L A N D PA R A D I S E photography by ANNA KIM

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MA AK KE EN NA A M

At once serene and dramatic, the natural beauty of Makena is the perfect setting for a wedding ceremony.

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Lava fields close to the resort offer a stunning backdrop for memorable wedding photographs.

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they’ve been painted by a master, palm trees swaying in a warm wind, the fragrance of tropical flowers, the gently lapping Pacific Ocean … Is there a better place to get married? One of this lovely island’s most popular wedding sites is Makena Point, a finger of land surrounded by water on three sides and offering a secluded and intimate spot for a ceremony. It is one of several locations at Makena Beach & Golf Resort that make for a memorable setting for that special day. These include the Pacific Lawn and Maluaka Lawn, both overlooking the beach and the Pacific, and the resort’s serene interior atrium with its sculpted Japanese gardens and flowing water. “We’re located at the end of the road, with unobstructed ocean views and not a lot of other buildings around,” says Gladys Sim-Avergonzado, the resort’s Wedding and Catering Account Specialist. “We have a lot of space to work with, and a very ‘get back to nature’ feel. That, along with the customized service we provide, separates us from other resorts.” So renowned is the service that the wedding and catering group has been called the “Dream Team.”

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Is there a more romantic place than Maui? Gold- and orange-hued sunsets that look like

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“They call us the Dream Team because we build dreams … that’s what we do best,” says Michele Brumblay, Director of Catering and Convention Services. “We take a lot of pride in making every bride the center of attention, and every wedding highly personalized. We’re a smaller property, which allows us to give every wedding our complete attention and very personal service. “We’re a one-stop shop and that makes it very easy to plan a wedding, even from a distance,” Brumblay continues. “We have trusted vendors who can provide everything from flowers and videographers to Hawaiian conch-shell blowers to specialty linens. We also work with some excellent hair and makeup people who will come to the guests’ rooms on the 40 MAKENA

One of this lovely island’s most popular wedding sites is Makena Point.

The infinite variety and vibrant hues of Maui’s flowers are the inspiration for beautiful bouquets and decorations.

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Tropical breezes, gently lapping waves and the tastes and colors of the islands add to the romance of the day.

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wedding day and really pamper the bridal party. Whatever they want, we will do our best to find it for them.” A highlight of any wedding at the resort is a meal prepared by renowned Executive Chef Marc McDowell, who works personally with couples to create a rehearsal dinner and reception menus. He will also accommodate special requests such as gluten-free dishes. “Chef Marc can do everything from plated dinners to expanded food stations, and our talented pastry chef can make wedding cakes as well,” Brumblay says. For further information on planning a wedding at Makena Beach & Golf Resort, visit the wedding blog on the resort’s website.

“They call us the Dream Team because we build dreams … that’s what we do best.”

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A RT F U L AT T I R E STEPHANIE SACHS’ WEAR ABLE ART text by BONNIE FRIEDMAN 44 MAKENA

an artist’s muse, a place where the spectacle of nature inspires wonder and expression. Artists refer to the infinite hues of sunrise and sunset, the brilliantly colored tropical flowers, flora encompassing every imaginable shade of green, the countless colors of the ocean and its inhabitants. Artist Stephanie Sachs sees it all in her own unique way. “Deep space,” she says when asked about her inspiration. And then she explains that for her, looking out over the ocean to the horizon gives her the sense of “long, deep space.” Her work has been continuously evolving over her many years on Maui. A formally trained artist who has lived on-island for decades, she is primarily known for her tropically inspired, pastel-hued watercolors and oils. Her new clothing line—with the witty name “Wear. Love. Repeat.”—draws on that honed expertise, with quite fashionable results. “Six or seven years ago, I felt I had enough experience to start to do abstracts,” she says. “The paintings looked like silk on wood to me. So I decided to find a way to actually put them on silk.”

Maui has always been

First, there was a lot of research to do. “Fashion is a much more interactive medium than painting,” she says. “You listen to what others say, to other opinions, how patterns look on them, what’s comfortable to wear.” It took a long time to find the right fabrics that were, as she describes, “soft, comfortable, easy for any woman to wear and easy to care for.” She chose silk, chiffon and a buttery soft cotton-andsilk blend for the tops, dresses and beach cover-ups— materials as flowing and ethereal as the designs. Later, she added luscious modal and cashmere blend scarves in whimsical patterns—mostly animals and insects— designed specifically for those pieces. For the silk clothing line, the designs always begin with a painting. Sachs chooses a particular portion of a painting and then gets to work, sometimes screenprinting the pattern, but more often operating digitally. She works extensively in Photoshop, repeating the pattern, changing the colors, until she achieves the desired effect. “I can make almost an exact duplicate of any portion of a painting,” she says. “Basically, it’s like making multiples MAKENA 45

“Fashion is a much more interactive medium than painting.”

of my paintings without making reproductions. I’m able to get more out of each painting.” And more people are able to enjoy each painting by wearing it. She had the product she wanted. Then she had to sell it. Enter Barbara Cipro, the buyer/manager at Nellie’s, the smart boutique at Makena Beach & Golf Resort, who has been at the forefront of fashion retailing on Maui for decades. “I’ve been in the retail business since I was 16,” says the au courant native Minnesotan. Since she moved to Maui in 1974 she has worked at just about every notable boutique on the island. “I got to work in great places and had really great mentors who have great style and who know a lot about merchandising,” she says. Now, she’s the fashion guru with her own following. Her experience, knowledge, timeless sense of style and warm personality have resulted in a loyal clientele, split pretty much evenly between Maui residents and mainland visitors. Maui being a small island, eventually worlds here collide, often in happy and artful ways. A coworker of Cipro’s at the resort wanted to commission Sachs to do an anniversary portrait. She found her via the Internet. “She saw my new clothing line on my website and she immediately got in touch with Barbara,” says Sachs. Cipro, always on the lookout for clothing that is stylish and comfortable, in easy-to-wear fabrics that work for both residents of the islands and visitors from the mainland and beyond, knew immediately upon meeting Sachs and seeing her clothing line that it was a match made in fashion heaven. “When I saw Stephanie’s creations, I knew it was a great fit for our clientele,” Cipro says. “When people come to Maui, they want to see things that are local, stylish and have a story to tell when they get back home. Stephanie’s fashions accomplish all three. “I hope our shoppers will find styles and clothing pieces they’ve never seen before but can still imagine pairing these pieces with things in their own closets at home, whether those closets are on Maui or in Minnesota.” Sachs’ line fits the bill, artfully.

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PAGE 44: ©SUE HUDELSON, MODEL: MICHELLE BAILIE; PAGE 45 AND THIS PAGE: COURTESY OF STEPHANIE SACHS

ISLAND EMBRACE You are a fine horse, Roselani is your name. Majestic one of Maui, Your ride is smooth like the bonefish. You crouch, work the knees, and you post. Listen you, oh horsewoman, Beautiful blossom of Maui, The love of the Hawaiian cowboy.

—HAWAIIAN COWBOY (WORDS & MUSIC BY SOL K. BRIGHT)

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©DIANE COOK AND LEN JENSHEL/GETTY IMAGES