Maui Guestbook 2017-2018 by Morris Media Network

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MAUI GUESTBOOK is part of a series of four books that Where® Hawai‘i will release on all the major Hawaiian Islands in 2017-2018, including O‘ahu, Kaua‘i and Hawai‘i Island. Each island will be represented with its own unique, iconic aerial image as the cover art. These books are designed to ®

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entertain and educate visitors about each respective

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and artistic manner. We hope you enjoy the book as

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island, and to tell the stories of Hawai‘i in an engaging

O‘AHU 2018

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much as we took pleasure in writing about Hawai‘i’s ISLAND

KAUA‘I 2018

HAWAI‘I ISLAND 2018

HAWAI‘I

KAUA‘I

treasures, places and people.

CONTENTS

ISLAND ESSENCE 32 PEAK INTEREST SACRED SUMMITS

Enjoy an aerial perspective of the island through the lens of a talented photographer. BY CAMERON BROOKS

42 THE ALOHA SHIRT

50 ADORNED WITH LOVE HAWAIIAN JEWELRY

The tradition of giving and receiving Hawaiian heirloom jewelry dates back to 13th century England. BY KRISTEN NEMOTO JAY

CLASSIC WEAR

ON THE COVER Meaning “House of the Sun,” Haleakalā rises 10,023 feet above sea level and is the world’s largest dormant volcano, which features rugged terrain and cinder cones. ©CAMERON BROOKS 4

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An excerpt from “The Aloha Shirt: Spirit Of The Islands,” which traces the splashy history of Hawaiian shirts from 1935 to 1955. BY DALE HOPE

56 HOME SWEET HOME SISTER SHIPS RETURN

After crisscrossing oceans and canals throughout the globe for more than three years, Hōkūle‘a and Hikianalia have returned from their “Mālama Honua Worldwide Voyage.” BY SIMPLICIO PARAGAS

82 ISLAND SONG CULTURAL SIGNIFICANCE

Within Hawai‘i’s oral and written history, there is some evidence—such as petroglyphs and artifacts—that indicate ancient Hawaiians were indeed aware of the presence of whales in Hawaiian waters.

The Original Waterfall Collection

An incomparable collection of Hawaiian and Island lifestyle jewelry

MAUI KAANAPALI: Whalers Village • Hyatt Regency Maui LAHAINA: 858 Front Street, across from Bubba Gump • 744 Front Street, across from the seawall • Lahaina Cannery WAILEA: The Shops at Wailea, Upper level • Grand Wailea Resort KAHULUI: Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center

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HAWAII’S BEST

People’s Choice Awards The Star Advertiser 2016

HAWAII MAGAZINE Readers’ Choice Award 2017

CONTENTS

ISLAND ESSENTIALS 10 MAUI MAP ISLAND OVERVIEW

A quick tour of Maui shows the different regions and various points of interest that are not to be missed.

18 FIRST LOOK MUST-SEE SIGHTS WHILE VISITING THE ISLAND

Beyond its award-winning beaches, Maui is home to the Maui Arts & Cultural Center, Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center and the Bailey House Museum.

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60 ISLAND VIEWS MAUI’S LANDSCAPE CHANGES FROM LUSH GREEN VALLEYS TO MOON-LIKE CRATERS

From east to west, north to south, the “Valley Isle” offers a different scenery at every turn.

70 OFF ISLAND NEIGHBOR ISLES

Accessible by a ferry ride, nearby Lāna‘i and Moloka‘i offer peaceful retreats.

SPECIAL SECTION DINING IN PARADISE

Chefs share their passion for free diving and spearfishing while Maui ranchers proudly uphold the paniolo (cowboy) traditions. There’s also a craft movement taking place and we invite you to visit a few of our favorite “gastropubs.”

The Original Wave Collection

An incomparable collection of Hawaiian and Island lifestyle jewelry MAUI KAANAPALI: Whalers Village • Hyatt Regency Maui LAHAINA: 858 Front Street, across from Bubba Gump • 744 Front Street, across from the seawall • Lahaina Cannery WAILEA: The Shops at Wailea, Upper level • Grand Wailea Resort KAHULUI: Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center

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HAWAII’S BEST

People’s Choice Awards The Star Advertiser 2016

HAWAII MAGAZINE Readers’ Choice Award 2017

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MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS ADVERTISING & CIRCULATION GROUP PUBLISHER William A. Moore III, 808.955.2378 HAWAI‘I SALES DIRECTOR Leianne Pedro ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Linda Ayau, Brandy Aylward,

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EDITOR Kristen Nemoto Jay ART DIRECTOR Chris Cardelli CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Dale Hope, Paul Wood CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Cameron Brooks, Mike Coots, Steve Czerniak, Desmond Thain MVP I CREATIVE CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER Haines Wilkerson SENIOR REGIONAL EDITORIAL DIRECTOR DESIGN DIRECTOR

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MVP MAUI SALES OFFICE 1833 Kalākaua Ave., Suite 810, Honolulu, HI 96815 Phone: 808.955.2378; Fax: 808.955.2379 www.wheretraveler.com Where GuestBook® is produced by Morris Visitor Publications (MVP), a division of Morris Communications, Co., LLC. 725 Broad St., Augusta, GA 30901, morrismedianetwork.com. Where® magazine and the where® logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications. MVP publishes Where magazine, Where® QuickGuide, IN New York, and IN London magazines, and a host of other maps, guides, and directories for business and leisure travelers, and is the publisher for the Hospitality Industry Association. Where GuestBook® publishes editions for the following U.S. cities and regions: Arizona, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charlotte, Chicago, Colorado, Dallas, Florida Gold Coast (Fort Lauderdale & Palm Beach), Fort Worth, Hawai‘i Island (the Big Island), Houston, Jacksonville/St. Augustine/Amelia Island, Kaua‘i, Los Angeles, Maui, Miami, Nashville, New Orleans, New York, Northern Arizona, O‘ahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Raleigh/Durham/Chapel Hill, Reno/Lake Tahoe, San Antonio, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle/The Eastside/Tacoma, Southwest Florida (Naples), Tampa Bay, Tucson, Virginia, Washington D.C. ©2016 by Morris Visitor Publications. All rights reserved. This publication may not be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, in whole or in part, without the express prior written permission of the publisher. The publisher assumes no responsibility to any party for the content of any advertisement in this publication, including any errors and omissions therein. By placing an order for an advertisement, the advertiser agrees to indemnify the publisher against any claims relating to the advertisement. Printed in the United States. MVP IS A PROUD SPONSOR OF LES CLEFS D’OR USA

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The Original Hawaiian Diamond Slipper Collection

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HAWAII’S BEST

People’s Choice Awards The Star Advertiser 2016

HAWAII MAGAZINE Readers’ Choice Award 2017

NAVIGATE

MAUI, THE SECOND LARGEST of the Hawaiian Islands, was named for the demigod Maui, the superman of

Polynesian myth. He is known as Maui tiki-tiki — Maui the Wonder Worker. The wonders of Maui are many, from the historic town of Lāhainā, once the major whaling center of the Pacific, to the royal resort of Kā‘anapali and the fabulous shopping and dining in West and South Maui. From the summit of Haleakalā to the beaches of Nāpili and Kapalua, from the charming towns of Upcountry to the beautiful curves of the road to Hāna, the Valley Isle offers the visitor much to explore, experience and discover. 10

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MAP: ©EUREKA CARTOGRAPHY, BERKELEY, CA; (WATERCOLOR BACKGROUND AND EDGE PATTERN) ©MIKE REAGAN

The Island of Maui

Collection available exclusively at Na Hoku.

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People’s Choice Awards The Star Advertiser 2016

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NAVIGATE

Ni‘ihau The “forbidden” island is known for exquisite shell jewelry. Kaua‘i Magnificent sea cliffs and canyons distinguish the Garden Isle. O‘ahu Known for Waikīkī beach, the state capital, shopping, Pearl Harbor and more. Moloka‘i You’ll find Old Hawai‘i charm, mule rides and famous Moloka‘i sweet bread. Lāna‘i Lovely Mānele Bay has posh resorts and pine-studded uplands. Maui Come to the Valley Isle for whale-watching, art, Mt. Haleakalā and the 54-bridge Hāna Highway. Kaho‘olawe Once a Navy firing range, the island is now dedicated to the preservation of Hawaiian culture. Hawai‘i The Island of Hawai‘i (also known as the Big Island) has an active volcano and diverse scenery.

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MAP: ©EUREKA CARTOGRAPHY, BERKELEY, CA; (WATERCOLOR BACKGROUND AND EDGE PATTERN) ©MIKE REAGAN

Hawaiian Islands

RIVIERA COLLECTION Na Hoku is Hawaii’s only authorized retailer of KABANA jewelry.

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HAWAII’S BEST

People’s Choice Awards The Star Advertiser 2016

HAWAII MAGAZINE Readers’ Choice Award 2017

THE SHOPS AT GRAND WAILEA MAKANA – GIFTS WITH ALOHA PINK LILIA - A LILLY PULITZER SIGNATURE STORE GRAND IMAGE BOUTIQUE GRAND JEWELS OF WAILEA CHRISTOPHER EGAN GALLERIES KI‘I GALLERY CRUISE BOUTIQUE PINEAPPLE PATCH NAPUA GALLERY QUIKSILVER WAILEA MEN’S AND WOMEN’S SHOP NA HOKU PACIFIC DREAM PHOTOGRAPHY FedEx BUSINESS CENTER BEACH & POOL STORE

3850 Wailea Alanui, Wailea, HI 96753 800.888.6100 • WWW.GRANDWAILEA.COM LOCATED AT GRAND WAILEA, A WALDORF ASTORIA RESORT

CONTRIBUTORS Bob Bangerter

Grass is Greener for Maui Ranchers, page D12

Bob Bangerter has lived on Maui for 48 years and has worked as a photographer for the past decade. His portfolio includes fine photography in the fields of landscape, architecture, fashion, people and surfing.

Cameron Brooks Aerial Views, page 32

Born in Honolulu, Hawai‘i, Cameron Brooks has been a professional photographer for more than five years. For this year’s photo essay, he describes the experience of photographing from a helicopter as a “rollercoaster ride in the sky.” He is the first person to release a book on iBooks about Hawaiian Aerial Photography. His passions include surfing, swimming and hiking.

Mike Coots

Spear of the Moment, page D8

Since losing a leg after a shark attack, Kaua‘i native Mike Coots has become a professional photographer, capturing stunning images of the ocean and those who play in it. His photographs have graced the pages of such noted publications as The New York Times, Forbes, SURFER and Bon Appétit. He is also the recipient of the GoPro Hero Award. In his spare time, he is an advocate for marine conservation and legislation, and an avid shark activist.

Steve Czerniak

Adorned with Love, page 50 Craft Culture, page D16

Steve Czerniak is a Honolulu16

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based photographer who specializes in photographing food, showcasing a dish in its best possible light. Known for his unique perspective on food and food culture, he is a frequent contributor to a variety of publications in Hawai‘i. Steve has always been interested in working behind the lens—beginning his career documenting people and their pets.

Dale Hope

Aloha Shirt, page 42

Dale Hope has spent his life in the garment industry in Hawai’i. He inherited his parents’ clothing business, then bought and served as creative director of the legendary Kahala label. He has also worked with Patagonia on the Pataloha label. He is the author of “The Aloha Shirt: Spirit of the Islands” (Patagonia, 2016). Dale has a deep love for the ocean and lives in Honolulu.

Cameron Brooks

Steve Czerniak

Paul Wood

Grass is Greener for Maui Ranchers, page D12

Independent writer Paul Wood lives on Haleakalā within “mooing” distance of Maui’s ranchlands. His work has received numerous awards, including Hawai‘i’s most prestigious, the 2006 Elliot Cades Award for Literature from the Hawai‘i Literary Arts Council. He is currently producing a new edition of “Four Wheels Five Corners,” his 1996 book about the peculiarities of life in Upcountry Maui. Paul also directs Writing Without Pencils, an ongoing project aimed at reforming the way we introduce young children to the art of writing.

Mike Coots

Dale Hope

Paul Wood

FIRST LOOK

©IVAN CHOLAKOV/123 RF STOCK PHOTO

Maui is an island of impressive contrasts. It’s home to rustic towns and five-star resorts, history and humpbacks, lush rainforests and jagged alpine peaks.

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Haleakalā

The island’s dominant geological presence is the 10,023-foot-high Haleakalā, the world’s largest dormant volcano. Its most magnificent feature is the crater itself: 3,000 feet deep, 2.5 miles across and a circumference of 21 miles. The volcano’s eruptions one million years ago shaped an island spectacular with natural beauty. It formed the lush ‘Īao Valley and the 1,200-foot-high needle-shaped rock that rises from within it. Haleakalā National Park encompasses 34,000 acres, including rain forests, deserts and subtropical beaches. Call 808.572.4400 for park information.

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Road to Hāna

Isolated from the rest of the island, Hāna is an undeveloped tropical enclave on the east end of Maui. You’ll find some of the island’s most striking beaches here: the black sand beach of Wai‘ānapanapa State Park, and the red sands at Kaihalulu and Hāmoa beaches. The famous Hāna Highway takes roughly three hours to traverse and winds its way over single-lane bridges and past numerous waterfalls and scenic sights. 20

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SERGI REBOREDO / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

FIRST LOOK

Baked fresh daily in Hawaii, our premium shortbread cookies make the perfect gift. OAHU Ala Moana Center Hilton Hawaiian Village Hyatt Regency Waikiki International Market Place Outrigger Waikiki Beach Resort

Royal Hawaiian Avenue Royal Hawaiian Center Sand Island Factory Store Waikiki Beach Marriott Waikiki Beach Walk

MAUI

LAS VEGAS

GUAM

Front Street The Shops at Wailea Whalers Village

The LINQ Promenade Grand Canal Shoppes at The Venetian | The Palazzo

Micronesia Mall The Plaza Shopping Center

For the Very Best, Look for the Pineapple Shape ÂŽ honolulucookie.com | 1-866-333-5800 @honolulucookie The pineapple shape of the cookie is a federally registered trademark of the Honolulu Cookie Company. August 2017. Where Guestbook Maui.

FIRST LOOK

As Mauiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s premier gathering place, Maui Arts & Cultural Center is a multi-disciplinary complex that is comprised of multiple venues, a dance studio and classroom space. The Schaefer Gallery, pictured above, showcases local, state and international exhibits in all media, including painting, sculpture and photography. One Cameron Way, Kahului, 808.242.ARTS (2787), mauiarts.org 22

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ÂŠBEN FERRARI

Maui Arts & Culture Center

FIRST LOOK

Waihe‘e Ridge Trail

Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center

Founded in 1934, the mission of Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center is to “unlock creativity through exceptional visual arts education and to enhance this endeavor through the preservation of the historic Kaluanui estate.” The property is the only historic estate on Maui and is open to the public seven days a week. The Center is a prized property that offers the Maui community and visitors alike a chance to appreciate the visual arts in anUpcountry setting. 2841 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, huinoeau.com, 808.572.6560 24

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(FROM TOP) ©JAROD POWELL; ©ZACH PEZZILLO

Challenging at first but well worth the work, the views from this northwest Maui hike are breathtaking. About one mile into this five-mile roundtrip trail, following a steep incline, catch your breath and see, for the first time, Makamaka‘ole Falls to your right. Then, enter the forest, noting flora both native and invasive: ‘ōhia, kukui, ferns and guava, to name a few. Those who begin the hike early have the best chance of a clear view of Waihe‘e Valley at the 2,563-foot summit of Lani‘ili (meaning “small heaven”); later in the day it’s a vast sea of clouds.

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The Beaches

Maui’s idyllic and varied coastline is naturally one of the island’s main attractions. Scientist Stephen P. Leatherman, famously known as “Dr. Beach,” has named several of Maui’s beaches as “America’s Best” over the years, including Kapalua’s DT Fleming Beach, Kā‘anapali Beach, Wailea Beach and Kapalua Bay Beach. Other beaches not to miss are West Maui’s Nāpili Bay and Kīhei’s Kama‘ole Beach Parks in South Maui. 26

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LARRY GEDDIS / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

FIRST LOOK

free Wi-FI

Bailey House Museum

Central Maui is often eclipsed by its glamorous coastal cousins, but its treasures speak for themselves: ‘Īao Valley, the town of Wailuku and the Bailey House Museum, an 1830s former seminary for girls. This Wailuku site was once home to missionary Edward Bailey’s family and now houses the Maui Historical Society. You’ll find furnishings of the era and Hawaiian artifacts. 2375-A Main St., mauimuseum.org, 808.244.3326 28

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PHOTO RESOURCE HAWAII / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

FIRST LOOK

Historic Lāhainā

Even before it was the rowdy whaling capital of the Pacific, Lāhainā was the first capital of the Kingdom of Hawai‘i. There are so many sights and stories about Lāhainā that the Lāhainā Restoration Foundation has placed informative plaques throughout the town, noting important structures and points of interest. Begin your self-guided tour at the Old Lāhainā Courthouse, located nearby the the oft-celebrated banyan tree. 30

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DAVID L. MOORE - HAWAII / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

FIRST LOOK

SAVOUR Make every moment Grand.

Hawai‘i Seasonal Cuisine Chef de Cuisine Mike Lofaro

3850 Wailea Alanui, Wailea, HI 96753 @humuhumumaui

•

800.888.6100

WWW.GRANDWAILEA.COM

32 W H E R E G U E ST B O O K PHOTO CREDIT GOTHAM BOOK 5.5/9PT

PEAK INTEREST The Hawaiian Islands’ summits are sacred realms that have been homes for Gods and Goddesses TEXT BY SIMPLICIO PARAGAS

PHOTO CREDIT GOTHAM BOOK 5.5/9PT

PHOTOGRAPHY BY CAMERON BROOKS

Hawai‘i’s summits are the realms of the gods, Nā wao akua. Far above the zones of human habitation, these summits once roared with fiery eruptions and now ring with silence. The air is thin, the ground free of footsteps. At the sky-reaching summits of Hawai‘i, Earth’s grandeur has never been brighter. Many of the early Polynesian gods and demi-gods derived from or dwelt in the heavens, and many of the legendary exploits took place among the heavenly orbs. Not surprisingly, ancient Hawaiians have always had a relationship with the skies, using them to navigate from island to island, and believing in their powerful and sacred nature. In the following pages, photographer Cameron Brooks captures aerial views of some of these hallowed summits, offering panoramic snapshots of a dormant volcano (Maui), towering sea cliffs (Moloka‘i), cloud-covered peaks (O‘ahu), cascading waterfalls (Kaua‘i) and plumes of smoke (Hawai‘i Island).

MAUI At Haleakalā, where the pan-Pacific demigod Maui snared the sun, we break above the realm of clouds into a sun-baked, subalpine world 10,023 feet above sea level.

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MOLOKAâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;I In ancient times, defeated warriors and those who had violated the strictures of the Hawaiian kapu system (the ancient Hawaiian code of conduct of laws and regulations) sought shelter in Molokaâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;i, which is known to have the highest sea cliffs in the world.

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36 W H E R E G U E ST B O O K PHOTO CREDIT GOTHAM BOOK 5.5/9PT

O‘AHU ‘Ōlapa ke ahi o ka lewa is an old Hawaiian proverb, which translates to “The fire of the sky flashes.” At 4,025 feet high, Ka‘ala is home to the benevolent patron goddess of travelers, Kaiona, who had frequent and helpful encounters with those traveling through her realm.

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KAUA‘I The elusive summit of Mount Wai‘ale‘ale is considered the wettest spot on Earth, creating a cascading series of waterfalls. In one of the most dramatic topographies in the island chain, the cliffs along the Nāpali Coast are the source of many Hawaiian legends and myths.

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HAWAIâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;I ISLAND In Hawaiian mythology, no other figure compares to Madame Pele. In addition to being recognized as the Goddess of volcanoes, she is also known for her power, passion and jealousy. Sacred among Hawaiians, Waipiâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;o Valley is the site of many heiau (temples) and waterfalls.

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THE ALOHA SHIRT Spirit of the Islands BY DALE HOPE

PROLOGUE Aloha puts into one word the warm sense of greeting, love, and playfulness for which Hawai‘i is so well known. If you are lucky enough to have been to Hawai‘i, you know that the beauty of the aloha spirit comes to you through every one of your senses. Feel it in the warmth of the sun, in the trade winds caressing your skin, in the sand between your toes, in the fragrance of a plumeria lei—how fitting it is that these sensations have come together to inspire the canvas that is the aloha shirt. This whisper of fabric expresses a uniquely Hawaiian experience. And whenever you see a classic aloha shirt, no matter where you are, it brings you back to a lifestyle that says relax, be at ease, have some fun. The history of such a marvelous cultural icon, so evocative of the spirit of its home, is woven with the mystery

and allure of Hawai‘i and the stories of those who have lived there. Different tales have circulated for decades about the origins of the aloha shirt. Did it spring forth late one night from the hand-operated sewing machine of a Japanese tailor? Was it inspired by the tails-out shirts of the Philippines; elegant kimono cloth from Japan; or colorful, bold flower prints from Tahiti? What we do know is that aloha shirts were created by a wonderfully inventive and artistic group of people during the time when Hawai‘i was emerging as an island paradise for tourists—when the building of the Royal Hawaiian Hotel and the christening of a trio of magnificent cruise ships by Matson Navigation opened this majestic string of islands to the world. Those were the days when boatloads of visitors were charmed by hula dancers swaying to the rhythm of a lone WHERE GUEST B OOK

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In the late 1920s, most visitors to Waikiki beachside hotels wore only one socially acceptable daytime color—white. The fashion was white duck or linen suits for men, dresses for women. Tourists at the big hotels could have a suit cleaned for a mere fifteen cents. In the early 1930s, imported Chinese pongee replaced the conventional daytime whites. The pongee, a handwoven, crude-textured lightweight tan silk, was fashioned into suits and dresses by tailors in Honolulu. These plaincolored pongee garments were practical and popular and were taken back to the mainland United States. The Japanese and Chinese home sewers, tailors, dressmakers, and dry-goods merchants had established a tradition of using their Asian fabrics in island clothing by importing fine fabrics such as Japanese printed silk and cotton yukata, a summer kimono material, from relatives back home. As of 1922, Hawai‘i’s clothing factories mostly produced plantation uniforms. Then, as Hawai‘i began to change from an agricultural to a service-oriented economy, the emphasis of the island clothing industry shifted from the production of work clothes to sports- and casualwear. There are many stories about the “who” and the “how” of the creation of the first aloha shirt. In a 1966 magazine article, journalist and textile designer Hope Dennis observed, “About thirty-five years ago an astute Hawaiian garment manufacturer (who shall remain nameless to avoid renewing a thirty-five-year old argument) designed the first aloha shirt,” launching what was to become the Golden Age of aloha shirts—the 1930s through the 1950s. In a letter to the editor in the Honolulu Star-Bulletin of September 26, 1984, Margaret S. Young’s recollection of the first aloha shirt placed it in 1926: “A classmate of

COURTESY D0LORES MIYAMOTO; COURTESY DALE HOPE. (OPPOSITE PAGE) COURTESY DALE HOPE

TAILOR SHOPS TO FACTORY PIONEERS

(PREVIOUS SPREAD, FROM LEFT) COURTESY DALE HOPE; ©JEFF DIVINE. (THIS PAGE, FROM LEFT) COURTESY DANNY ESKENAZI;

(Previous spread, from left) Handpainted fabric from Alfred Shaheen’s studio, 1950s; Hawaiian Kahili print by artist John ‘Keoni’ Meigs. (This page, from left) Textile artists Elsie Das, left, and Nobuji Yoshida; Musa-Shiya's retail store in Honolulu; the first aloha shirt advertisement. (Opposite) Original pattern by Hale Hawaii depicting island life.

‘ukulele and enchanted by Waikiki beachboys riding the waves on their great wooden surfboards. For those who came from the far corners of the world, nothing painted a more vivid picture of Hawai‘i than these bold shirts with their colorful island images. “In a sense, aloha shirts put Hawai‘i on the map,” remembered renowned fabric designer John “Keoni” Meigs, discussing his early fashion days. “The first thing people did when they arrived was make a beeline for a department store to buy one.” Keoni was just one of the many flamboyant designers in the Golden Age of aloha shirts, from the 1930s through the 1950s. For inspiration, they shared the sunsets, beaches, flowers, and rain forests of Hawai‘i. They and their visionary peers—manufacturers, artists, and retailers—made up the community that created this memorable art form. Welcome to this rich collection of stories about a unique time and place—folk histories of the many people who brought aloha shirts to life, celebrations of the romance and beauty of Hawai‘i, and the wonderful stories told by the shirts themselves.

Additional photography: (page 42, top left) ©joe carini/getty images; (page 42, bottom left) ©joe carini/pacificstock; (Page 42, middle left) ©Philip rosenberg/pacificstock; (page 44, bottom right) ©ron dahlquist/getty images; (page 48, left) ©allan seiden/getty images

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COURTESY DALE HOPE

For the 50th anniversary of the Hawaiian Pineapple Company, Vera Stone Cook and Herb Briner, owner of Kamehameha, renewed the original design and fabric used to make this shirt.

COURTESY CAMILLE SHAHEEN TUNBERG (2)

mine, the late Gordon S. Young (no relation), developed in the early 1920s another pre-aloha shirt which became popular with some of his friends at the University of Hawai‘i. He had his mother’s dressmaker tailor shirts out of the cotton yukata cloth which Japanese women used for their work kimonos. The narrow width material usually had blue or black bamboo or geometrical designs on white. Gordon had a broad figure and it took several widths to make a shirt, which he wore tucked in. He took a supply when he entered the University of Washington in 1926 and created a topic for campus conversation.” In a Honolulu newspaper article, local residents Bob Lowry and his wife, Sally, recalled how in the late ’20s their classmate James P. Kneubuhl from Samoa showed up at Madame Lester’s School of Ballroom Dancing in Honolulu wearing a printed shirt with a striking tapacloth design. The shirt’s material, from the store run by Kneubuhl’s parents in Pago Pago, inspired Madame Lester to have a bolt of similar cloth sent to Honolulu. Hawaiian merchant Koichiro Miyamoto, “Musa-Shiya the Shirtmaker,” made shirts from the fabric for the other dance students. Eventually, shirts and undershorts made from the same tapa-influenced material became popular with high school students. Dolores Miyamoto, wife and working partner of Koichiro Miyamoto, also recalled that in the early ’30s famed Hollywood actor John Barrymore came into the store and ordered a colorful shirt made of kimono fabric. Ruth Hirata, then a young Honoka‘a tailor on the Big Island of Hawai‘i, remembers making colorful flowered shirts for Tony and Charles Labrador, who were with Alfred’s Dance Band in Honoka‘a, during the early ’30s. Lila Watumull Sahney, a buyer for the legendary Honolulu retailer Watumull’s East India Store, remembered, “The aloha shirt came into popularity, or began to be noticed more as a fashion item when the haole [caucasian] boys here wore them. They would get Ellery Chun, or Linn’s or Yat Loy, two local tailoring and retail outlets, or Musa-Shiya to make a shirt for them,” Sahney recalled. “And then they’d wear that to a lū‘au.” In matching the young islanders’ love for colorful clothing with the tourists’ desire to bring home keepsakes of

the carefree islands, Hawai‘i’s clothing styles were forever changing. The shirts were first made commercially by Honolulu merchants in tailor shops downtown. Ellery Chun’s family dry-goods store, King-Smith, was conveniently located next door to a tailor shop where visitors went to order custom shirts. In 1932 or 1933 (two different dates are provided in newspaper articles), Mr. Chun decided to manufacture some warm-weather shirts to keep in stock so customers would not have to wait for them. In 1932, Surfriders Sportswear Manufacturing, owned by Ti How Ho, reportedly made and sold its first “Hawaiian” shirts. In the summer of 1934, when President Franklin D. Roosevelt and his family visited Hawai‘i, sportswear had not yet firmly found its place in Honolulu. The newspaper photographs of a large lū‘au attended by FDR and friends show that “there were no gay Hawaiian garments on the participants as are now worn,” observed Emma Fundaburk, whose 1965 history of the Hawaiian garment industry has become a classic. “The guests at the lū‘au were all wearing leis, but were dressed in regular street or afternoon wear as would have been worn on the mainland at that time.” As the tourist trade and visits by the US Navy increased, the demand for Hawaiian souvenirs grew. The word “aloha” was used in connection with many

(From top) Former Miss Hawai‘i Bev Noa in an ad for Alfred Shaheen, whose factory housed an artist studio, a screen-print operation, a sewing operation, finishing and shipping departments, and a sales showroom; Shaheen textile artist Tony Walker.

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Adapted from “The Aloha Shirt: Spirit of the Islands” by Dale Hope (Patagonia, 2016). Used by permission.

(THIS PAGE, FROM TOP) ©SIG ZANE COLLECTION; COURTESY CAMILLE SHAHEEN TUNBERG. (OPPOSITE) COURTESY DALE HOPE

(This page, from top) Artist and designer Sig Zane inspects a hand cut Rubylith used to make his silk screen; fabrics move through a rope washer. (Opposite) Hand-painted textile artwork from the Alfred Shaheen studio, inspired by ancient Hawaiian themes.

products advertised in shop windows and newspaper advertisements. Emma Fundaburk noted that “in 1935 and 1936 when the word ‘aloha’ was attached to many types of merchandise, it was not unique that it also was attached to shirts and sportswear.” On June 28, 1935, Musa-Shiya Shoten, Ltd., took out an advertisement in the Honolulu Advertiser: “Honolulu’s Noted Shirt Maker and Kimono Shop. ‘Aloha’ shirts—well tailored, beautiful designs and radiant colors. Ready-made or made to order...95¢ up.” Aimed directly at the tourist market, this was probably the first appearance of the phrase “aloha shirt” in print. “In 1936, Chun decided to give his distinctive style a more exotic name—‘Aloha Shirt’—and he registered this as a trademark. He advertised it locally with persistence, the shirts caught on and so did the name, and that was the beginning of a popular trend that gave impetus to Hawai‘i’s fashion industry,” noted the Atlanta Journal. During the mid-1930s, many advertisements by custom tailors of shirts, dresses, and uniforms started to appear in the local Hawaiian newspapers, largely driven by the increasing tourist trade. By 1936, there were 275 tailors in Honolulu. Until the bombing of Pearl Harbor in 1941, the local garment industry continued to experience considerable growth. Large factories began to open with greater production capabilities. Two of the most important companies that changed the method of production from tailor made

to factory made were Kahala (originally Branfleet) and Kamehameha. George Brangier and Nat Norfleet Sr. of Branfleet humbly launched their shirt business in 1936, sewing coconut buttons on Japanese silk kimono cloth shirts. Kamehameha’s Herb Briner also pioneered raw silk aloha shirts out of a factory on Beretania Street in 1936. The Royal Hawaiian Manufacturing Company was founded in 1937 by Max Lewis with eight sewing machines and twelve employees, and grew in just three years to seventy-five sewing machines and more than eighty employees. Royal Hawaiian shipped its products to the mainland, Bermuda, London, Paris, Switzerland, and Australia. “To these far places go shirts and slacks, housecoats, pajamas and play suits in exotic prints over which tumble in delightful confusion tropical fish and palm trees, Diamond Head and Aloha Tower, surfboards and leis, ‘ukuleles and Waikiki beach scenes. All of these exciting Hawaiian patterns come in washable crepe,” wrote “Pins and Needles” columnist Lorna Arlen in the Honolulu Advertiser in 1939. Kunichi Tanaka founded Pacific Sportswear in 1936. Pacific made clothing for men, women, and children. In later years, Kunichi’s son, Raymond, and his older brother, Jerry, both joined the family firm as apprentice fabric cutters. As a young man, Ray was a noted musician. “Yeah, I played a lot of military clubs, the hotels, and clubs. I was making more money working weekends in my music business than I was in the garment business,” he remembered. In 1937, sales of aloha shirts and other cotton apparel to the mainland reached $128,000. As the decade drew to a close, more than $600,000 worth of Hawaiian-made sportswear was being shipped to mainland stores annually, and the industry employed 450 people. “The aloha shirt—symbol of the comfortable, gay and picturesque sportswear that is made and designed in Hawai‘i—has become big business,” wrote a newspaper columnist. “From a hit or miss business a few years ago, clothes manufacturing in Hawai‘i has grown to be an industry of great significance in the territory.”

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This original heirloom bracelet was a gift from Queen Liliâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;uokalani to Zoe Atkinson, a headmistress at an all girls school, days before the end of the Hawaiian monarchy.

ADORNED WITH LOVE From the British monarchy to the shores of Hawai‘i, Hawaiian heirloom jewelry continues to thrive in popularity and sentiment.

(OPPOSITE PAGE) PHOTO BY CHRISTINE TAKATA, BISHOP MUSEUM ARCHIVES; (THIS PAGE) ©KRISTEN HOOK PHOTOGRAPHY

BY KRISTEN NEMOTO JAY

If the United States is known as the “melting pot” of the world, then the state of Hawai‘i should be called a vibrant “fruit salad.” Where tradition meets diversity, Hawai‘i prides itself in distinguishing and celebrating each other’s differences and similarities. Different—yet the same—is the theme, which in turn reminds everyone who lives and visits here to remember and respect each other’s heritage. A particularly special tradition of honoring the past, and those who’ve come before us, is one that can be attributed to Hawaiian and British monarchies. Although evolved over time, this tradition is known as the gift giving of Hawaiian heirloom jewelry. Like many local customs of Hawai‘i, the practice of giving and receiving Hawaiian heirloom jewelry has connections from abroad. In his book, “Hawaiian Heirloom Jewelry: A Lasting Remembrance,” Philip Rickard, owner of the eponymous Hawaiian heirloom jewelry manufacturing company, wrote that the origin of heirloom jewelry dates back to 13th century England. Early works of gold rings and bracelets were some of the first pieces known to incorporate words of poetry or sentiment, which eventually led to the portmanteau of “posy.” According to London's

Victoria & Albert Museum, during medieval times when religion was a part of everyday life, it was common for text to appear on the outside of posy jewelry pieces as a way to express friendship or devotion to one’s faith. Many pieces would therefore function both as a religious talisman and a gift of love. Over time, the engraved pieces would involve lilies and roses, and for Hawai‘i, plumeria and hibiscus flowers. In the mid- to late 1800s, an era when Hawai‘i’s relationship with England was especially friendly, Queen Lili‘uokalani was evidently fond of heirloom jewelry since she can be seen wearing bracelets in several portrait photographs. During this same epoch, enameled jewelry became popular and was worn primarily by English royalty, a rule that was instated by Queen Victoria. It would later be called “mourning jewelry.” Gold bracelets and rings were engraved with black enamel as a way to mourn the sudden death of Queen Victoria’s beloved husband, Prince Albert. The fashionable trend soon made its way to Hawai‘i as local merchants sought to sell pieces to members of England’s upper class who were either vacationing or living in the Hawaiian Islands. WHERE GUEST B OOK

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from Lili‘uokalani to Zoe Atkinson, the headmistress at Pohukaina Girls School and event coordinator for the Queen. The gesture soon drew envy among young lady socialites, who arguably inspired the custom of giving Hawaiian heirloom jewelry as we know it today. “The tradition became popular because Hawai‘i had its own unique design that made our heirloom jewelry one of a kind,” Marzan explains. “While the Victorian era was still represented in the black enameling of the letters, designs that represented Hawai‘i were embellished on the jewelry to show our appreciation and association to the land. That’s what you see in Hawaiian heirloom

From engravement to polishing, Na Hoku is one of the few Hawaiian heirloom jewelry manufacturers that continues to make its pieces by hand.

Marques Marzan, the cultural advisor for Bishop Museum, says it was during that time when Queen Lili‘uokalani—known then as High Chiefess Liliu Kamakaeha—commissioned her own personal enameled bracelets, thus starting a trend that would lead to the modern Hawaiian heirloom jewelry. “[Lili‘uokalani] had some [bracelets] made to bring back as gifts to family members here in Hawai‘i,” says Marzan, as he points to Bishop Museum’s current heirloom jewelry piece on display in the Kāhili Room. Engraved with “Aloha Oe” (Farewell to Thee) in black lettering, one of the gold bracelets was a gift

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“All those who live in Hawai‘i know that we all come from such a diverse and ethnic background ... But we all recognize Hawai‘i’s particular traditions and appreciate and wear this kind of jewelry.”

jewelry today, with various designs of the maile lei or plumeria flowers … it’s just beautiful.” Paul Sato, vice president of Na Hoku, agrees and says Hawaiian heirloom jewelry is unlike any jewelry pieces in the world. “It’s representative of Hawai‘i and is available no where else in the world,” Sato asserts. “It’s a combination of handcraftsmanship, personalization and history that really doesn’t occur anywhere else.” Although the high price of gold made these bracelets out of reach for some, Hawaiian heirloom jewelry found a broader customer base in the latter years of the 20th century when other forms of heirloom jewelry—such as earrings, pendants and charms—became available. Today, regardless of a family’s financial or social status, Hawaiian heirloom jewelry is given and received as a way to honor Hawai‘i’s deep connection to its ancestral past. For birthdays and graduations, it’s common for immediate and extended family members to combine resources in order to purchase a Hawaiian heirloom piece—mostly engraved gold bracelets for high school female graduates—as a way to commemorate the special occasion. In recent years, wedding engagement rings and bands have grown in popularity among locals and visitors alike; they’re perfect memorabilia items that signify the momentous event while in the Islands. “All those who live in Hawai‘i know that we all come from such a diverse and ethnic background,” Sato says. “But we all recognize Hawai‘i’s particular traditions and appreciate and wear this kind of jewelry.” Today, the styles of Hawaiian heirloom jewelry have evolved with its customers. Sterling silver and rose gold are now incorporated into designs, and black enamel has expanded to options of colored or raised engraved lettering. Whatever a person’s preference of heirloom pieces, its significance will continue on to the next generation. “That’s one of the reasons why ‘heirloom,’ in the titling of the jewelry, is so significant, because that’s what truly happens,” says Sato, as he speaks from his own personal experience of when his daughter was given an engraved plumeria bracelet that belonged to his late mother. “History moves with the person who wears it and that makes it so special.”

Hawaiian heirloom jewelry has evolved from a simple band bracelet to mixed gold metals, colorful enamels and dramatic flower designs, which reflect any style or personality.

HOME SWEET HOME Polynesian Voyaging Society’s Journey Comes Full Circle With the Return of Hōkūle‘a and Hikianalia. BY SIMPLICIO PARAGAS

At sunset, master navigator Nainoa Thompson explains that where the sun crosses the horizon will be komohana, or west. (Opposite page) Hōkūle‘a crew.

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relies on gauging the position of the sun, moon and stars, taking into account variations in ocean currents and wave patterns, and even the behavior of fish and birds. “Traditional means of wayfinding, which involve relying heavily on natural elements for direction, remain as our guides on this sail,” said Hōkūle‘a captain and pwo navigator Bruce Blankenfeld. “We’re very proud of Hōkūle‘a’s sailing accomplishments and tenacity, and are humbled that our ancestors continue to watch over us on this trip.” Leading up to the homecoming in June 2107, the Polynesian Voyaging Society had highlighted stories of schools and organizations, which have taken lessons from the worldwide voyage to launch their own efforts to further care for the world’s natural and cultural environments. “When Hōkūle‘a first set sail on this worldwide voyage, our mission was to create a platform to join in the community,” Thompson said. “Our vision is that this voyage of a 1,000 stories will launch 10,000 voyages needed to protect and care for Hawai‘i and the world. “Education is at the core of everything we do,” Thompson added. “When I was their age, ideas like mālama and aloha weren’t talked about in school. It is our responsibility to teach our young people the importance of caring for our Island Earth.” It was an assertion echoed by UN Secretary-General Ban Ki-moon when Hōkūle‘a arrived in New York City. “Captain Nainoa, I count on your leadership and commitment as we carry out our plans to make this world safer and more sustainable for all,” said Ki-moon during a ceremony at Gantry Plaza State Park. “Let us renew our resolve to protect [our oceans] for generations to come.” “When we sail, we are surrounded by the world’s large ocean, but Earth itself is also a kind of island, surrounded by an ocean of space,” Thompson noted. “In the end, every single one of us—no matter what our ethnic background or nationality—is native to this planet. As the native community of Earth we should all ensure that the next century is the century of pono—of balance— between all people, all living things and the resources that we have on our planet.”

“Our vision is that this voyage of a 1,000 stories will launch 10,000 voyages.” —Nainoa Thompson, Pwo (Master) Navigator, PVS

(Clockwise, from above) A ki‘i kāne, carved male image; crew members secure the sails; Hikianalia cruises along the steep vertical cliffs of Nihoa.

ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF ‘ŌIWI TV

They’ve sailed the treacherous Indian Ocean. They’ve encountered rough seas. And since departing Hawaiian waters in May 2014, Hōkūle‘a and sister ship Hikianalia have sailed more than over 60,000 nautical miles, made 125 ports of calls and visited 27 nations, weaving a “Lei of Hope” around the world. Crewmembers have connected with thousands of people in communities across the South Pacific, Tasman Sea and Indian Ocean, including Samoa, Aotearoa (New Zealand), Australia, Indonesia, Mauritius, South Africa, Canada, the Continental U.S. and South America. “We made four promises when we embarked on this journey,” said Nainoa Thompson, president of Polynesian Voyaging Society and Hōkūle‘a pwo (master) navigator. “1) We would bring the canoe home and no one would get hurt; 2) we would advocate for environmental change; 3) we would convene health systems; and 4) we made a promise to our children—this is important to me—to improve the quality of education for our keiki in Hawai‘i.” During the ’70s, a Hawaiian cultural renaissance began to flourish, thanks partly to the building of Hōkūle‘a— a replica of the Polynesian voyaging canoe built to test ancient methods of navigation. Since its inaugural voyage to Tahiti in 1976, Hōkūle‘a has sailed more than 160,000 miles, yet crewmembers agree this journey has been her most ambitious undertaking to date. “Malama Honua” (“Care for the Earth) defines this worldwide voyage’s mission, with a goal of charting a new course toward sustainable practices for food, energy and global environment. “What you [have done] here with the [Worldwide Voyage], what you are doing here with the culture is something that will live on for generations to come,” said U.S. Secretary of the Interior Sally in welcoming Thompson and crewmembers to Washington, D.C. in 2016. “So we are enormously proud of the leaders, the crew, the volunteers and supporters of this epic journey.” In a nod to their seafaring ancestors, crew members have forgone modern navigational equipment—no compass, sextant or GPS devices, not even an iPhone—in favor of wayfinding, a traditional navigational technique that

ISLAND VIEWS Maui is a diverse group of destinations, each sounding exotic and each living up to its impeccable reputation. Explore such areas as Wailea and Mākena or take a leisurely drive to the boho chic town of Pā‘ia.

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Kā‘anapali

In the 1960s, as developers built West Maui resorts to rival Waikīkī’s, Kā‘anapali experienced a surge of popularity. It’s easy to see why this former sugar plantation was chosen: its beaches. At the north end, Kahekili Beach is great for snorkeling. Along the length of the resort, Kā‘anapali Beach is lined with swank hotels and the Kā‘anapali Historic Trail, which starts at the Royal Lāhainā Resort and includes various points of interest.

Kapalua

Surrounded by the protected West Maui rainforest, Kapalua Resort is nestled between two prominent sanctuaries: Pu‘u Kukui Watershed Preserve, at the summit of the West Maui Mountains, and HonoluaMokulē‘ia Marine Life Conservation District, the shoreline jewel of the 22,000acre resort. The resort honors its plantation heritage by encouraging a sense of wellness and environmental sustainability.

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Upcountry

A world away from beach resorts, the bucolic scenery in this part of the island reflects its agricultural and paniolo (cowboy) roots. On the slopes of Haleakalā, you’ll drive by ranches and farms in the communities of Makawao and Kula, which is the location of Hawai‘i’s only eight-sided church. Climbing toward the 10,023-foot Haleakalā summit, you’ll see livestock, lavender and fruit farms on sprawling, verdant green farmland.

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Mākena

Mākena boasts some of the most diverse and rugged terrain on the island. The area’s Little Beach and Big Beach—known jointly as Mākena Beach—are popular with swimmers and sun worshippers. The beaches are divided by Pu‘u Ola‘i, a cindercone with a challenging hiking trail that leads to its summit. Mākena Landing is a popular snorkeling and launching spot for kayaking. Scuba divers are encouraged to visit Five Graves/Five Caves, where they can explore the elusive “bubble cave.”

Wailea

This popular South Maui destination is a land of luxurious resorts, manicured golf courses, upscale retail, fine dining and, one can confidently say, the island’s best beaches. Here, expanses of immaculate golden sand, azure waters and lazily swaying palm trees are the stuff of those proverbial “get-away-from-it-all” dreams. Mokapu, Ulua, Wailea and Polo beaches offer prime snorkeling, swimming, and unrivalled views of the neighboring islands of Lāna‘i, Kaho‘olawe and Molokini Islet.

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‘Īao Valley

Central Maui’s iconic landmark is ‘Īao Needle, a 1,200-foot cone of hardened lava at the heart of a 6.2-acre state park just west of Wailuku. The Needle rises out of a dramatic tableau of streams and sharp cliffs in thick vegetation, often shrouded in mist. The valley and its signature peak are the remains of Pu‘u Kukui, the crater of a dormant volcano in the West Maui Mountains. ‘Īao Stream (fed by up to 400 inches of rain per year) cuts through the valley, and there are excellent hiking trails throughout the park.

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Kīhei

This unpretentious South Maui town draws locals and visitors to its beaches. Some of north Kīhei’s beaches are not ideal for swimming, but the brisk winds off Mai Poina ‘Oe La‘u Beach nevertheless draw windsurfers and kiteboarders. There is superb swimming from Charley Young Beach all the way down to Keawakapu Beach, and the snorkeling is especially great along the reef between Kama‘ole Beach Parks II and III. Other Kīhei attractions include the Pacific Whale Foundation’s Marine Resource Center and whale-watching in the Hawaiian Islands Humpback Whale National Marine Sanctuary.

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Pā‘ia

Once a plantation town centered on Hawaiian Commercial & Sugar Company, today Pā‘ia is one of the top windsurfing destinations in the world. In the winter months, the waters of nearby Ho‘okipa Beach Park can be found dotted with sailboarders performing complex aerial maneuvers. Not surprisingly, Pā‘ia boasts at least a dozen surf shops where you can buy sports gear and board accessories.

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Kahului

Kahului is Maui’s busiest port and most populous metro area. This workaday town of some 20,000 people is usually the first city visitors to Maui see after touching down at nearby Kahului Airport. Kahului contains worthwhile attractions, including the Maui Arts & Cultural Center, one of the island’s premier venues for concerts, art exhibitions and resources for Polynesian culture; and the Maui Nui Botanical Gardens.

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OFF ISLAND

Separated by the ‘Au‘au Channel, Maui, Moloka’i and Lāna‘i are known as Maui Nui (Maui County). Although Maui is the most recognized of the three, Moloka’i and Lāna‘i each has its own unique appeal and attractions.

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Literally translated to “the cave with a hole,” Keanapuka is found at Hāka‘a‘ano, a coastal flat in northern Moloka‘i.

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Lāna‘i

Legend has it that hundreds of years ago, man-eating ghosts inhabited this mysterious island. Today, the Pineapple Island is home to only approximately 3,000 residents and not a single stoplight to be found. Bordered by 1,000-foot sea cliffs and populated by spotted deer, big horn sheep, Rio Grande turkeys and a spectacular variety of rare flora and fauna, Lāna‘i is the place to visit if you want to veer off the beaten path. For a majestic view of all the islands, climb 3,370 feet above sea level to the highest peak, Lāna‘ihale, traversing the Munro Trail by foot or jeep, through lush vegetation and a misty pine forest.

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Moloka‘i

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Once known as āina momona, the bountiful land, Moloka‘i offers a portal to what Hawai‘i might have been like in a bygone era. It’s a reward for serenity-seeking travelers, a place to unwind away from the rigors of urban life. On Moloka‘i, where the coconut trees tower over the buildings, you could actually be alone on a golden sand beach or in a forest of ironwood trees. Adventurous travelers will want to visit Kalaupapa Peninsula, isolated from the rest of the island by the world’s highest sea cliffs. The area is famous for its former Hansen’s Disease settlement, where patients were forcibly committed in the 1800s.

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Living in a world created by their gods, ancient Hawaiians spiritually connected with all forms of life. They traditionatlly believed in their family’s ‘aumākua, a deified ancestor who could take the form of an animal, such as the koholā (whale). Joylynn Paman in "The Culutral Significance of Whales in Hawai‘i”

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