Nashville Where Guestbook 2022-2023

CONTENTS

06 WHAT’S NEW IN NASHVILLE NASHVILLE TOP 20

28 HISTORY IN THE WALLS

The Nashville area’s industrial-chic spaces offer an original take on eclectic shopping experiences.

32 AROUND THE CORNER: FRANKLIN

Delight in the many charms of Franklin, TN.

36 FROM MUSIC CITY TO MULE TOWN

Discover the stops that make for a memorable road trip.

40 AROUND THE CORNER: COLUMBIA

Take a jaunt through this vibrant, laid-back town.

41 A SHORT HISTORY OF THE GRAND OLE OPRY

Get to know the Mother Church of country music.

44 INTERNATIONAL CUISINE SCENE

Expand your palate in Nolensville Pike, Nashville’s ethnic cuisine corridor.

48 MAGICAL, MYSTICAL, HISTORICAL

The tales behind Music City’s sculptures.

52 HERE COME THE NASHVILLE STAMPEDE! Everything you need to know about the new PBR Team Series club, the Nashville Stampede.

54 Q&A: JUSTIN MCBRIDE

The two-time PBR World Champion bull rider and Ring of Honor recipient takes on his newest role: head coach of the Nashville Stampede.

56 CIVIL RIGHTS STAND

Nashville is an important stop on the U.S. Civil Rights Trail. Learn why.

58 GET TO KNOW

Explore Nashville’s neighborhoods like a local.

71 MONUMENTAL HISTORY

The Bicentennial Capitol Mall State Park’s 95-Bell Carillon looms large over visitors.

ON THE COVER: THE GLORIOUS ENVIRONS OF THE CHEEKWOOD BOTANICAL GARDEN, A 55-ACRE WONDERLAND ON THE CITY’S SOUTHEASTERN SIDE. ©CHEEKWOOD ESTATE & GARDENS

GEODIS Park

Nashville is now home to the largest soccer-specific venue in the United States and Canada. Home field for Nashville SC, Music City's major league soccer team, the 30,000seat GEODIS Park has a 360-degree canopy, a 65-footwide shared concourse and a safe-standing section. With just 150 feet between the last row of seats and the touchline, the stadium gets fans closer to the action than ever before. In addition to being a sports center, it’s also a cultural hub, full of art installations and home to the Soundwaves Gallery, which includes 48 works from 29 Middle Tennessee artists. Nashville SC also supports the community through its many programs that champion youth, families, local heroes and diversity.

WH AT’S NE W

Chicken Guy

Guy Fieri takes the chicken sandwich to new heights at Chicken Guy, where chicken tenders are brined in lemon juice, pickle brine and buttermilk and infused with fresh herbs to deliver a unique taste only the Mayor of Flavortown could provide! Try them in a basket, salad bowl or signature sandwich stuffed beyond the bun with goodness. They’re accompanied by 22 sauces—everything from Fieri’s famous Donkey Sauce to Bourbon Brown Sugar Barbecue to Nashville Hot Honey. Sample away, there are multiple possibilities no matter your intensity level. Fieri teamed up with restaurateur Robert Earl to bring the concept to nine locations and counting, including downtown Nashville.

WHAT’S

It's all about the tenders at Chicken Guy. Order them in a 3- or 5-piece combo, or inside a sandwich (which includes two tenders), which also comes in a combo. Fries and a fountain beverage are included.

There are 22 signature sauces on the menu at Chicken Guy. They include Guy's Favorites, such as Special Sauce, classics such as Buttermilk Ranch and Hot 'N' Spicy such as Nashville Hot Honey.

Music City Indoor Karting

One of the best spots to get your thrill on in the area, Music City Indoor Karting takes riders around a one-fourth mile track at speeds of up to 40 mph using the best technology on the market. It’s known as the go-to for parties and corporate events, and has an adult racing league. You can also practice your golf game at the HD Golf/Multi-Sport Simulator. Now the facility is also home to the Omni Arena, a virtual reality gaming system that lets players turn, walk and run 360 degrees while battling zombies, pirates, Wild West outlaws and more. The 77,000-square-foot space is just a half mile from Nissan Stadium and a mile from downtown Nashville. AT’S

WHAT’S

Battle zombies, pirates, Wild West outlaws and more inside the Omni Arena. It's the perfect spot to take up the controls and play against friends and family.

The Omni Arena, a virtual reality gaming system, is the newest feature at the technology-driven Music City Indoor Karting. The facility is just a mile from downtown Nashville.

WH AT’S NE W

Woolworth Theatre

Opened as one of the company’s original “five-and-dime” stores in 1913, Nashville’s Historic Woolworth is best known for the sit-ins that occurred there in 1960, protesting the segregation that would not allow Black people service at the lunch counter. Famously, three groups of Black college students remained seated at the counter even after being asked to leave, considered an act of civil disobedience. Among the protestors was future congressman John Lewis. The site is now a live music venue and cocktail lounge but retains some of its historic pieces, such as lunch counter stools and original railings.

June

The newest Nashville restaurant from James Beard Award-winning chef Sean Brock, June introduces diners to ingredients from the American South. Brock and his team distill these ingredients down in the adjoining Research & Development Lab, where they come up with new creations and taste sensations—strong emphasis is placed on seasonality and attention to detail. The resulting dishes are served up on a tasting-only menu at the 32-seat restaurant; diners can watch the intricate detail that goes into them from their sightline into the open kitchen. Light is an integral part of the experience, as illusion of space is key. Plates come in five acts: canapes, water, land, dessert and petit fours. AT’S W

Music may be the city’s claim to fame, but it’s just the beginning. Go beyond the velvet ropes to explore these destinations that make up the fabric of the city.

RYMAN AUDITORIUM

First opened as the Union Gospel Tabernacle by Captain Tom Ryman in 1892, Ryman Auditorium, aka “The Mother Church of Country Music,” is best known as the home of the Grand Ole Opry from 1943-1974. After a fallow period, it regained its prominence in 1992, and today is considered one of the most acoustically sound venues for a concert in the United States. Its diverse stage lineup has included everyone from Emmylou Harris (who was instrumental in its conservation) to Bruce Springsteen and the Jonas Brothers. Still a religious experience for many, tours include a photo of yourself on the hallowed stage. 116 Fifth Ave. N., 615.889.3060, ryman.com

FIFTH + BROADWAY

Sitting behind Ryman Auditorium and just a stone’s throw from the honky tonks on Lower Broadway, the gleaming Fifth + Broadway is a feast for the senses. Here you’ll find the glorious Assembly Food Hall, a foodies’ dream with choices such as the Donut Distillery (don’t miss the Dreamsicle), Steam Boys and an outpost of Prince’s Hot Chicken. Bars abound as well. Head to the Terrace Bar for an intimate space with incomparable views of the Ryman and Batman Building; the Concert Bar has two locations to the left and right of the entertainment stage, so you won’t miss any of the action. Looking for some retail therapy? The eclectic lineup of shops includes Free People, Ariat, Carhartt, State & Liberty and the Hollie Ray Boutique. 5055 Broadway Place, 615.800.5395, assemblyfoodhall.com

HONKY TONK HIGHWAY

According to Visit Music City, a honky tonk is “an establishment that contains at least one rockin’ stage, cold beverages and a party that lasts all day, every day.” And indeed, this fun zone, which runs from 5th to 1st avenues on Lower Broadway, should be a stop for every visitor, even if you just walk down the sidewalk and listen to the music spilling out. When you do head inside (just try and resist), check out the multiple levels and bars before you settle in—many honky tonks have rooftop areas, such as The Stage on Broadway and The Second Fiddle, where the rooftop is brand spankin’ new. They’re casual and cool, as are the environs of Nashville Crossroads and Legends Corner. Most honky tonks open up at 10 am, and they’re just as fun in the daytime—the good food, good music and good cheer is always on tap.

NATIONAL MUSEUM OF AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSIC

One of the best interactive museums in the country, you’ll play the blues, R&B, soul and more for hours at this new Lower Broadway draw. Headline a choir, produce a hit song, create your signature beat and much more through stations that abound throughout the museum. You could literally listen for hours as you learn more about an artist, hear about his or her influences and build playlists of your favorites. What’s best, you can save it all to the wristband you receive at entry, so you can listen to those playlists over and over again. It’s a great place to discover new favorites, pay homage to the greats you’ve always loved and get a new perspective on the origins of African American music. 510 Broadway, 615.301.8724, nmaam.org

MUSICIANS HALL OF FAME MUSEUM

The 60,000-square-foot Musicians Hall of Fame honors music makers regardless of genre. Exhibits are displayed geographically and tell stories of music in Memphis, Los Angeles, Muscle Shoals, Ala., Atlanta, New York and Detroit. Don’t miss the guitar that played the theme from “M.A.S.H.” or the drums used on Otis Redding’s “Sittin’ on the Dock of the Bay.” Then, dive into “The Sound of Young America” in the Motown exhibit, where you can view instruments used to record legendary acts such as The Supremes, The Temptations, Stevie Wonder and The Jackson 5. 401 Gay St., 615.244.3263, musicianshalloffame.com

JOHNNY CASH MUSEUM

In 2013, Bill Miller, a mega-fan of the Man in Black, opened this tribute museum with the world’s largest and most comprehensive collection of artifacts and memorabilia from the musician’s life. Here, visitors can listen to Cash’s hits by decade, view his guitars, costumes, records, even handwritten lyrics, watch videos and much more. Next door, the Johnny Cash Kitchen & Saloon serves up unfussy Southern favorites; Swett’s Restaurant, a fixture in the Nashville community long adored by Johnny and June, prepares the eats. 119 3rd Ave. S., 615.256.1777, johnnycashmuseum.com

BELMONT MANSION

Built in 1850 as the summer home of Joseph and Adelicia Acklen (said to have been the wealthiest woman in America during the mid 1800s), this Italianate villa is furnished with original and period pieces. Two women from Philadelphia purchased the mansion in 1890 and opened a women’s school, using the home for dorms and classrooms. Today, Belmont University owns the property and operates it as a house museum. Of particular note are the works of art in the front entry hall, the majestic staircase leading to the Grand Salon and the Polk Clock, given by Sarah Polk, the widow of President James K. Polk. 1900 Belmont Blvd., 615.460.5459, belmontmansion.com

FRIST ART MUSEUM

Just a mile from Music City’s honky tonks, the Frist Art Museum sits on burgeoning Upper Broadway. It’s another kind of institution in Nashville, one where the community converges to view special exhibitions and take part in educational programs. Located in a building that once housed Nashville’s main post office (and is on the National Register of Historic Places), remnants of that former life can be seen today, in the high-ceiling sorting rooms that are now exhibition galleries, architectural features that express order and eagle sculptures, the official seal of the USPS. 919 Broadway, 615.244.3340, fristartmuseum.org

T T•Y

NASHVILLE ZOO

The ninth largest zoo in the United States by land mass, the Nashville Zoo at Grassmere has developed only 86 of its 188 acres— so new exhibits are continually on the horizon. Among them is Expedition Peru: Trek of the Andean Bear, which highlights the characteristics of the gentle mammal and supports the species’ conservation. For additional unforgettable interactions, the zoo’s Backstage Pass (additional purchase required) lets you interact with giraffes and giant anteaters. Open to all guests is the Kangaroo Kickabout, in which you can get up-close and personal with red kangaroos, the largest mammals in Australia. 3777 Nolensville Pike, 615.833.1534. nashvillezoo.org

9CHEEKWOOD

This hidden gem boasts gorgeous botanic and cultivated gardens and woodland trails that cover the 55 acres surrounding the Cheek family’s 1930s Georgian mansion. It’s a place to seek your Zen— with or without a meditative session at the Shomu-en Japanese garden. The estate also serves as a museum of art, with a nod to botanical and colorful works in its gallery, while the Ann & Monroe Carell Jr. Family Sculpture Trail boasts contemporary installations. No matter what the season, there’s always something delightful at Cheekwood—from thousands of blooming bulbs in spring to a mile of holiday lights in winter. 1200 Forrest Park Drive, 615.356.8000, cheekwood.org

HATCH SHOW PRINT

In 1879, this famous letterpress print shop produced its first piece of collateral—a 6-by-9-inch handbill announcing a lecture by Rev. Henry Ward Beecher, brother of author Harriet Beecher Stowe. Since then, the historic shop has created posters for artists ranging from Opry greats like Minnie Pearl to the Rolling Stones, Bruce Springsteen and B.B. King. Hatch Show Print is still a first choice for today’s touring acts, so you’ll find a slew of freshly designed prints every day. Fittingly, it’s adjacent to the Country Music Hall of Fame & Museum. 224 Rep. John Lewis Way S., 615.577.7710, hatchshowprint.com

COUNTRY MUSIC HALL OF FAME

For the genre’s faithful fans, this Nashville must-visit is the next best thing to heaven. A wall of gold records welcomes guests, while comprehensive galleries delve deep into the world of the greats like Johnny, Blake, Patsy, Dolly, Faith and Taylor via rhinestone-studded costumes, hand-written lyrics, priceless mementos and more. Induction to the Country Music Hall of Fame is considered country music’s highest honor. New members are elected annually by an anonymous panel chosen by the Country Music Association; 2022’s class includes Jerry Lee Lewis, Joe Galante and Keith Whitley. 222 Rep. John Lewis Way S., 615.416.2001, countrymusichalloffame.org

ANDREW JACKSON’S HERMITAGE

One of the oldest and largest historic site museums in the United States, Andrew Jackson’s Hermitage encompasses 1,120 acres and was the seventh president’s home, office and social parlor from 1804 until his death in 1845. It’s also home to the Jackson burial site, where Andrew and his beloved wife Rachel, who died in 1828, are reunited. Enslaved people also lived on the property, and those who wish to do more than visit the Jacksons’ former dwellings can board a wagon tour, which takes them into the plantation fields, and attend the special presentation “In Their Footsteps.” 4580 Rachel’s Lane, 615.889.2941, thehermitage.com

HISTORIC RCA STUDIO B

Located on world-famous Music Row, Studio B is the oldest surviving recording studio in Nashville where more than 35,000 songs were recorded—over 1,000 of which became Top 10 hits. Step inside the studio where many legendary artists (including Elvis Presley, Dolly Parton and Roy Orbison) created timeless music and made recording history. Tours depart daily from the Country Music Hall of Fame & Museum to this destination known as the birthplace of the “Nashville Sound,” a style characterized its by background vocals and strings that put Nashville on the map as an international recording center. 222 Rep. John Lewis Way S., 615.416.2001, studiob.org

GRAND OLE OPRY

The Grand Ole Opry has been a Nashville institution since 1925, when a radio announcer introduced fiddle player Uncle Jimmy Thompson on a new show called “The WSN Barn Dance.” Many performance spaces and almost 100 years later, it’s still the cement block that anchors Music City and has launched the careers of countless performers. Its newest backstage tour details that rich history with an immersive film in the custom-built Circle Room.

The stories of country music’s most iconic artists come alive here; through the 23.1 surround-sound system with speakers in the ceiling and walls, you’ll feel like you’re in the middle of a concert. 600 Opry Mills Drive, 800.733.6779, opry.com

MADAME TUSSAUDS

The first of the iconic attraction’s museums to focus solely on the musicians who’ve shaped America’s musical landscape, Madame Tussauds Nashville introduces you not only to country music’s greatest stars, but those who are the very fabric of their genres— jazz, blues, rock and pop among them. Not only can you rub elbows with these superstars, but you can feel what it’s like to be in the recording booth, on the radio, backstage at a concert and more. Among the icons you’ll meet are Diana Ross, Taylor Swift, Justin Bieber, Katy Perry, Ozzy Osborne, Minnie Pearl, Garth Brooks and Trisha Yearwood. Inside Opry Mills, 615.485.4867, madametussauds.com/Nashville T W T Y•

T T•Y

NASHVILLE PARTHENON

The only full-scale replica of the Greek Parthenon in the world, this ornate structure was built in 1897 for Tennessee’s Centennial Exposition to honor Nashville as the “Athens of the South.” It serves as a model of classical architecture, full of columns, friezes and colonnades. The plaster replicas of the Parthenon Marbles found in the Naos are direct casts of the original sculptures, which adorned the pediments of the Athenian Parthenon dating to 438 B.C. Inside stands Nashville sculptor Alan LeQuire’s awe-inspiring 42-foot-tall sculpture of Athena; there’s also gallery space with a permanent collection of contemporary paintings. 2500 West End Ave., 615.862.8431, nashvilleparthenon.com

BELLE MEADE HISTORIC SITE & WINERY

Belle Meade Historic Site & Winery got its start as a thoroughbred breeding farm. In its heyday it was one of the largest and wealthiest private estates in Nashville, covering 5,400 acres and producing some of the finest racehorses in the South. It’s now a museum; tours take you through the mansion, grounds and on-site winery that’s celebrating two centuries of production. The “Journey to Jubilee” tour highlights the African-American experience at Belle Meade and the impact these residents had on the Harding family and the property. 5025 Harding Pike, 615.356.0501, visitbellemeade.com

TENNESSEE STATE MUSEUM

Take a fascinating look at the history of Tennessee, from prehistoric times through the 20th century. The Tennessee State Museum itself sits on a historic spot: it can trace its roots to a museum opened on the Nashville public square in 1817 by artist Ralph E. W. Earl. A life-sized portrait of then General Andrew Jackson was part of that museum, and sits in the collection of the state museum today. Visit permanent exhibits on topics ranging from the first peoples’ arrival in Tennessee at the end of the Ice Age to a 360-degree interactive theater exploring the state from World War II on. Revolutionary and Civil War artifacts and a natural history program are also featured. 1000 Rosa L. Parks Blvd., 615.741.2692, tnmuseum.org

CENTENNIAL PARK

A site for art lovers, recreation enthusiasts, history buffs and naturalists, the 132-acre Centennial Park is a treasure in the middle of the city. In addition to the iconic Parthenon (see opposite page), there’s a mile-long walking trail, sunken gardens, sand volleyball courts, a band shell and dog park. It also houses the Centennial Sportsplex, where visitors can go swimming, work out in the fitness center and play hockey in the ice arena. Those looking to engage with nature should follow the “If Trees Could Sing” exhibit, in which 18 Nashville artists have recorded videos talking (and sometimes singing) about trees, their benefits and how to take care of them. 2500 West End Ave., 615.862.8400, nashville.gov/ departments/parks/parks/centennial-park

HISTORY IN THE WALLS

The Nashville area’s industrial-chic spaces o er an original take on eclectic shopping experiences.

BY MADISON SULLIVAN

Blue-hued glass taking on the color of the sky, a pair of Batman-esque spikes piercing the dark—Nashville’s skyline is a sight to behold day and night. But some of its most unique buildings are found squatting low to the ground in the form of former factories- turned-shopping destinations. Don’t get us wrong, you’ll still be drawn to them by features hanging out above the horizon: a long-legged water tower here, a smokestack there. However, these things are just a taste of the history found behind checkered window panes and formidable garage doors.

Travelers interested in spending a day perusing industrial spaces and one-of-akind shops can follow the I-65 conveyor from Nashville to Franklin before being scooped off and sent in the direction of Columbia. That same line carrying them through three counties whisks them from 1881 to 1929 to

1959—the years (or, in the case of our first stop, the suspected year), these factories were built.

What better place to park ourselves than Marathon Village? Previously an automobile manufacturer, its proud brick buildings boast block lettering, globe lanterns and arched detailing. Once you’ve pulled in parallel under the bridge or paid a few bucks to secure your vehicle in a gravel lot, leave the clack of cars on the road overhead for the excited chatter beyond doors propped open to let the breeze in and bag-laden shoppers out.

From the moment you pass the vintage gas pump in its entryway, you’re surrounded by nods, nay, museum-style exhibits dedicated to what first went on within the factory’s walls.

Dark tables stretch into the distance, underlining tools of all shapes and sizes. Pipes overhead work as leading lines, guiding visitors

Nashville and the neighboring Franklin and Columbia are home to a number of charming factories-turned-shopping centers. Unique finds include everything from DIY pottery making, tea, olive oil and spirits tastings, goods from local makers and more.

to areas that are simultaneously old (“Now Entering 1200 Clinton Foundry Dept.”) and new (tours, tastings and cocktails). The signs, one wooden and hanging from chains, the other written in neon chalk on a sandwich board, frame the entry to Corsair Distillery.

After you’ve wandered down the historic hangout’s long hallway, past adults inspecting clippings ensconced in clear cases and kids fidgeting with gears on ground level, it’s time to turn back and turn your focus to modern-day.

Weave in and out of stores selling jewelry and Nashville-themed garb before sampling olive oil at the Nashville Olive Oil Company, peering down the narrow passage into Victory Tattoo and chatting with a friendly museum worker out in the hall.

As you make your way up a slope to the

lefthand side of the factory, the smell of booze from Tennessee Legend Distillery replaces the unmistakable aroma of Barista Parlor. Don’t forget to pay a visit to the Nashville Tactical Lounge and Grinder’s Switch Winery, where uproarious laughter pours out, giving the comedy club across the way a run for its money.

Before you return to your automobile, dedicated driver in tow, cross the street to the first floor of Marathon’s second building, a garage of sorts for open-carriage cars permanently parked behind velvet ropes.

You won’t have to manufacture a reason to visit The Factory at Franklin. It was originally built in 1929 to assemble stoves. The sprawling space boasts a variety of charming shops—and is soon to be home to more.

While local favorites are shuffling storefronts

under new ownership, visitors will still find themselves beneath patchwork orange and brown window coverings, a vaulted ceiling, and expansive skylights as they meander over giant gears painted on concrete floors.

Revel in the building’s spacious center, and make sure to grab a piquant Korean cauliflower taco from Mojo’s Tacos. Then follow curious groups past couples swiping glaze onto starkwhite pottery outside Third Coast Clay and workers nestled into java-colored leather chairs inside Honest Coffee Roasters.

A series of open-front shops stand on one side of the corridor, selling, among other things, lobster rolls, gourmet sodas, glass-encased butterflies and build-your-own bouquets. Cross memory lane into CR-71, an antique store with color-blocked books stacked high, then the Luna

Record Shop, selling row upon row (and plastic bins full) of vinyl.

Those with a penchant for souvenirs will have a hard time narrowing down their selections in Made in TN and Fork of the South. The former stocks Goo Goo Clusters and The Loveless Cafe’s cookbook; the latter: “What Would Dolly Do?” tea towels and their very own The Factory-scented candles with notes of sweet tea and magnolia.

Once you’ve squirmed up onto a larger-thanlife rocking chair and snapped a photo, legs stretched straight out on the seat in front of you, backtrack and head through a courtyard and into the Mockingbird Theater. Here you can rock along to live music from your seat or the floor in front of the intimate stage.

Now that your factory visits are in full

swing, it’s time to drive farther from Music City, down past cow-dotted pastures, to the Factory at Columbia.

Sans towering architecture, this circa1959 former shirt factory attracts travelers with its bright billboards; patio lights draped every which way; distinct retail offerings; concerts; and events, such as Springfest Beer Blast and Christmas at the Factory. Tug on one of its massive, garage-like doors and step inside a wide walkway. What greets you varies depending on where you enter.

On one end, whiffs of oil paints and leather waft in the air as you stroll by galleries, a handmade sandal shop and shelves of vintage books with Scandinavian titles printed in gold on their spines. On the other end, soft music drifts from Nashville Tea

Co. The sound of bubble tea being wiggled around in tall plastic cups amplifies as you enter the thin shop, where chandeliers hang under industrial piping, and fringed rugs lay on cement floors.

Its neighbor, The Loco Lemon, sells freshly squeezed gourmet lemonade in flavors such as pineapple, prickly pear and even pickle. Snap a photo in front of its citrus display, then set off to inspect the quirky artwork lining the Factory’s walls. One mural depicts a 3D cow’s head jutting out from a pastoral scene. Another: the Parisian skyline.

Then there’s the mural outside, painted onto a blocky, gray wall, signed by E.O., and lit by one of the building’s ubiquitous lights. Its swirling letters say it all: “The Factory is my happy place.”

AROUND THE CORNER

FRANKLIN

The ninth largest community in Tennessee, Franklin wears many hats. Its walkable downtown is both quaint and modern, and history buffs can visit multiple Civil War sites. A stroll through Main Street not only introduces you to historic buildings but tells the story of the African American experience in the Civil War through the “Fuller Story” markers. When you’re done downtown, take a drive out to Leiper’s Fork to visit galleries, boutiques and coffee shops. Be sure to keep your eyes peeled, as many musicians of all genres call Leiper’s Fork home. Leiper’s Fork Distillery is another must; tour the facility and enjoy a tasting. Did we mention Franklin is the most haunted city in Tennessee? Take a ghost tour, if you dare! (©visitfranklin.com)

A BOOK LOVER’S

Columbia, Tennessee's agricultural heritage is reflected in the annual "Mule Day," a spring affair. Opposite page: Get a panoramic view of Music City from Fort Negley.

PHOTO CREDIT GOTHAM

From Music Cityto Mule Town

Stops that make for a memorable road trip

BY WILLIAM HARWOOD

So you’re visiting Music City, a place with a bustling downtown, a picturesque river and a thriving livemusic scene. Craft breweries, chef-owned restaurants, artisan cafés and unique boutiques line the streets, many holed up inside historic buildings. What could possibly be better? Visiting two places with a bustling downtown, a picturesque river and a thriving live-music scene. The latter, of course, replete with all the attendant and wonderful things to see and shop, sip and sup. But still better: What if this other place was just a short ride from Nashville? An easy day trip, but one with some classy overnight options if needed? Well, good news folks. To Nashville’s south, just past some rolling hills, growing towns, mooing cows and peaceful pastures, such a place exists. It’s called Columbia, Tennessee—aka Mule Town.

Road trip!

Columbia lies just 53 miles from Nashville, but who’s in a rush? The art of the American road trip demands that the journey receive equal billing with the destination. So, to artfully arrive in Columbia, map out your route from north to south by visiting Middle Tennessee’s historic spaces and soaking in its rich flora and fauna.

Begin your journey by taking the high ground just two

miles south of Lower Broadway. Nashville’s Fort Negley, atop St. Cloud Hill, is 623 feet above sea level—you’ll stand more than 250 feet above the surface of the Cumberland, high enough to see over the condos of The Gulch and behold burgeoning buildings ballooning beyond. During the Civil War, this location—then described as a “commanding eminence”—proved the best spot for the construction of the largest Union fort outside of Washington, DC.

During the Battle of Nashville in December of 1864, Fort Negley’s cannons helped keep the Confederates at bay. These days, Fort Negley serves as an outpost from which to view the battle for Nashville’s skyline.

FORT NEGLEY SERVING SUGGESTION: Dozen Bakery (open from 7 am Mon.-Sat., 8 am Sun.), at the base of the fort, is the perfect place to load up on artisanal breads, freshly baked sweets and made-to-order breakfast fare for your early morning picnic from the top.

Moving south on I-65, Davidson County recedes into the rearview mirror as Williamson County fills up the windshield. The iconic WSM tower (for more info, see the Grand Ole Opry feature on p. 41) is a not-be-missed

landmark along the way. Then, exit on Cool Springs for the city of Brentwood’s Marcella Vivrette Smith Park. Brentwood is an affluent and booming satellite city of Nashville, loud with the gears of commerce; Smith Park is its calming oasis, 400 rustic acres of meadowy mellowness and sylvan serenity. Along with its six miles of hiking trails, the park features new playing fields, restrooms, picnic shelters and a playground. There’s also a paved bike path, wide and smooth and free of cars.

Smith Park is best known as the site of Ravenswood Mansion, named for the famous Tennessean Sam “Raven” Houston. Ravenswood was built in 1825 and is now a popular wedding venue.

SMITH PARK SERVING SUGGESTION: Sit in the chairs on Ravenswood’s porch and read a short story aloud to your friends.

The next stop south is The Park at Harlinsdale, a 200-acre homage to Tennessee’s popular Walking Horse, a riding horse with a distinctive, four-beat gait. While the park is still active in the development and promotion of the breed, other amenities have been added alongside its many stables and equestrian trails. One such feature is an expansive, four-acre dog park, providing woofies ample space to romp and play. There’s also a feature that kids will love, a three-acre pond for catch-and-release fishing. But don’t worry if you have to put your would-be lunch back into the water. If you’re hungry, The Factory at Franklin, with lots of food and shopping, is just around the corner.

THE PARK AT HARLINSDALE SERVING Suggestion: Catch a fish. Then go pat a dog.

A bit farther down, in charming Thompson’s Station, is Preservation Park. The halfway point between Nashville and Clarksville, this 200-acre park was the site of the Battle of Thompson’s Station during the Civil War. In March of 1863, more than 1,200 Union troops came down from Nashville seeking food for themselves and hay for their horses. They got captured instead, in a major Confederate victory. After the war, the land reverted to its natural state and is currently maintained as a preservation park. For those seeking to get a sense of Middle Tennessee’s past and a glimpse into its future, the high hill at Preservation Park has the view for you: rolling hills, fertile countryside and rapidly growing towns, both to the north and south.

PRESERVATION PARK SERVING SUGGESTION: Hike to the top of the grassy hill, stretch out and meditate. Or take a nap.

Clockwise from left: The WSM Tower; Ravenswood Mansion; a sculpture at The Factory at Franklin; Harlinsdale Farm.

Left to right: Among Columbia, Tennessee's charms are boutiques such as Smith & York, restaurants such as Barino Italian Southern Eatery and classy digs such as Soireé on the Square.

The first stop in Maury County, just before the Columbia line, is Chickasaw Trace Park. It’s located along the Duck River, one of the most biologically diverse waterways in North America, providing a clean, free-flowing home to 50 species of freshwater mussels and 151 species of fish. The park itself is some 300 acres, ample room for amenities such as miles of trails for mountain biking and modern pavilions for picnicking. There’s also a boat ramp to put into the river should you wish to rent a canoe or two from one of the local rental services.

Chickasaw Trace is also home to the Derryberry Log Cabin. Built in 1803, Derryberry is on the National Register of Historic Places and is available for rent for groups of up to 25. Don’t worry, it’s been updat ed with modern amenities: heat, air conditioning, water and electricity.

CHICKASAW PARK SERVING SUGGESTION:

Play checkers on the Derryberry porch. Float on the river.

You have arrived inside Columbia city limits, home of the annual Mule Day celebration (which takes place every spring), a tradition stretching back to 1840. So now it’s time to hit the historic streets to check out the great food and drink being served up and all the cool stuff going down. A definite must is the Columbia Arts District with its one-of-a-kind finds and nearby Amy Montgomery Home, a boutique for the home, and Aubree P. Boutique, featuring stylish clothing and accessories. If it’s past 4:30 pm, then buona fortuna for you; Barino Italian Southern Eatery is there to help you pasta time away with Italian-fused, Southern flair while enjoying a glass of wine. Where else can you order smoked pork over penne in a spicy bourbon barbeque marinara?

Make sure to save time and room to also check out The Factory, a mid-20th centu ry shirt factory-turned-21st century haven for artists and artisans and merchants. Here you’ll find purveyors like Fork of the South, a Southern-inspired general store and Nashville Tea Co., a modern tea house. Sit a spell and recover some strength for an evening stroll downtown. Columbia’s town square is vibrant with shops and pubs, from Smith & York, The Linen Duck and The Faded Farmhouse for clothes, jewelry and furniture to Muletown Coffee—which has plenty of bev erages to fuel your exploration.

If it gets too late, or you party too hearty, Columbia has digs where one can crash classy. The Soirée on the Square, for example, is 3,700 feet of luxurious loft living in the heart of downtown. What better place for an unex pected overnight stay?

AROUND THE CORNER

COLUMBIA

The county seat for Maury County, Columbia, Tennessee has its roots in business and agriculture. It’s home to General Motors, antebellum mansions and the only surviving residence of President James K. Polk. The city is also an antiquer’s dream, with a vibrant arts district—you’ll find a number of artist spaces just blocks from Columbia’s historic town square. Be sure to meander about the great variety of shops and restaurants, such as Duck River Books, Smith & York and Asgard Brewing Company. Before you leave, don’t forget to visit the burgeoning Factory at Columbia, a treasure trove of eclectic finds—it’s just minutes from downtown Columbia. (©visitcolumbiatn.com)

BY WILLIAM HARWOOD

It’s Saturday, November 28, 1925, and commercial radio is just five years old. In downtown Nashville, an elderly musician, Uncle Jimmy Thompson, born in 1848, stands before a small crowd squeezed into the National Life Insurance Company’s Studio C. He picks up his fiddle and plays old-timey tunes into the newfangled microphone. And, like magic, Uncle Jimmy’s circle of listeners extends its circumference at the speed of light far beyond the confines of the tightly packed space, tapping the

toes of folks sitting in their homes as far afield as Kentucky and Alabama, strangers suddenly connected as one through the medium of radio and the power of music.

No one realized it at the time, but something very special had just been born. Then called the Barn Dance, though soon to be renamed the Grand Ole Opry, the program would not only become the longest-running live radio show in history but also blossom into a multigenerational institution. It cre

ated an extended family that would prove instru mental in molding Southern folk music into a new art form, country music, while transforming Nashville into Music City.

The program was an instant success, and the Grand Ole Opry in those early years outgrew ven ues like a child outgrowing shoes. When space at National Life Insurance proved insufficient, Hillsboro Theatre, known to Nashvillians as the Belcourt, became the venue. When the Belcourt proved too small, first the Dixie Tabernacle and then the War Memorial Auditorium became the Opry’s homes. When even those venues proved too small and the sellout crowds too rowdy, con stantly ripping the seating to shreds, the Ryman Auditorium became the Opry’s new address in 1943. Originally built as a tabernacle, a place for spiritual revivals, the Ryman came to be known

as the Mother Church, its wooden pews pro viding seating for more than 2,000 and solid enough to withstand the raucous crowd’s twists and turns. These were the years of radio’s peak power before TVs had fully taken over American homes, and the Grand Ole Opry was one of the nation’s most beloved programs, heard by millions on 650 AM WSM, its powerful signal amplified by the 808-foot-high, diamond-shaped WSM tower just south of Nashville.

By the 1970s, the Grand Ole Opry had become more popular than ever and even the esteemed Ryman Auditorium was no longer adequate. Never designed as a music venue in the first place, the Ryman had only one dressing room and an inadequate restroom for women. With no backstage area, artists would wait in the halls or the bars of nearby Printer’s Alley until it was

time for their sets. Larry Gatlin, the lead singer for The Gatlin Brothers, recalled while sitting in the comfort of one of the Opry’s artist’s dressing rooms before going on stage last March, “The first time we played at the Grand Ole Opry was back in August 1971. There was no air condition ing at the Ryman and that two o’clock afternoon matinee was hotter than you can imagine.”

The Grand Ole Opry moved in March 1974, into what may prove to be its forever home, the Grand Ole Opry House. It was a state-of-the-art structure with nearly 16 million feet of audio, video and lighting cables that allowed the Grand Ole Opry to cater to its now worldwide audience. For those wishing to view the show in person, the new venue doubled the Ryman’s seating capacity, providing space for some 4,400 fans to fill the hall. Instead of a single dressing room

LEFT: COURTESY OF THE GATLIN BROTHERS; RIGHT: COURTESY OF THE GRAND OLE OPRY

The Gatlins with mom on piano; one of the 18 unique dressing rooms at the Opry.

Previous page: The Gatlin Brothers backstage at the Grand Ole Opry.

for the artists, the new venue boasts 18 dressing rooms, each with its unique theme. As Gatlin said, “There is a saying in Nashville: You can overdub the steel guitar and the fiddle, but you can’t overdub the feel.”

To help transmit the feel of the Mother Church to the Grand Ole Opry House, The Gatlin Brothers once brought in their mother, playing piano live onstage while the brothers sang, just as the four of them had first done some 60 years earlier in Texas. Of course, the most famous sym bol transmitting the feel of the Mother Church to the Grand Ole Opry was laid in place by the King of Country Music himself, Roy Acuff. He oversaw the removal of a section of the Ryman stage, a six-foot circle of wood, and placed it center stage in its new home. This is the iconic Circle, the actual wood upon which artists like Hank Williams, Patsy Cline and Johnny Cash once stood and sang. With the Circle centering

the stage at the Grand Ole Opry, the feel of the Mother Church has entered the building.

Now well over 5,000 episodes old, the Grand Ole Opry is a hit that just keeps on hitting, its artists performing an average of more than 6,000 songs per year. The live shows, with established stars and newcomers, are never rehearsed and are never the same show twice.

Over the decades, the Opry has inducted more than 200 members and, as of spring of 2022, had 68 active members. Induction is considered a high honor and the names on the list of former and current members are a who’s who of the artists who have defined the genre. From Uncle Jimmy Thompson, the original member, to names like Bill Monroe, Ernest Tubb, George Jones, Dolly Parton, Vince Gill, Garth Brooks and Carrie Underwood, the Grand Ole Opry features the all-time greats. “You don’t have to see it or hear it, you automatically just know what

it is,” said Underwood. “That is how legendary [the Opry] is.”

Each year, tens of thousands of folks join the audience to participate in the show, their applause heard over the airwaves in 38 states, in addition to Canada and Mexico. Backstage tours are available and should be on any Nashville visitor’s “must do” list. During the guided back stage tour, guests go behind the curtain and learn about the legendary venue’s history, get a glimpse of the artist’s dressing rooms and even walk across the stage into the famed wooden circle for a photo opportunity. The Gatlin Brothers have been members of the Grand Ole Opry for almost 46 years and Larry, who also hosts Opry Country Classics, said, “I feel an honor every time I come on the Opry stage, but I don’t walk across it if I’m not performing. I’m not telling anybody else how to do it, but it’s not a thoroughfare for me. That’s a sacred place.”

Carrie Underwood on stage at the Opry; The Circle, a piece of wood from the Ryman's former stage on which legends such as Hank Williams, Patsy Cline and Johnny Cash once performed.

INTERNATIONAL CUISINE SCENE

Expand your palate in Nolensville Pike, Nashville’s ethnic cuisine corridor

BY WILLIAM HARWOOD | PHOTOGRAPHY BY NATHAN ZUCKER

Nashville is synonymous with country music, hot chicken and Southern hospitality. It has also become a foodie’s paradise with countless restaurants offering authentic foods from around the world, and boasts a wealth of immigrantowned restaurants. From Jamaican to Indian, Ethiopian to Korean, Brazilian to Egyptian, if you’re hungry for it in Music City, chances are good that someone somewhere in this town is authentically preparing this cuisine right now.

Several areas in Nashville are known for their high concentrations of foreign-born chefs, but the undisputed epi-

center of the ethnic cuisine scene is Nolensville Pike. In a drive of less than a dozen miles total—straight out-and-back from downtown—it is possible to make a gourmand journey around the world. Increasingly popular, Nolensville Pike draws locals and tourists alike—little wonder the number of restaurants and the diversity of cuisines along this vibrant strip continues to expand. There are many more worthy choices along Nolensville Pike than we have room to cover here; these seven are worth a try for their authentic flavors, great vibes and authenticity.

NASHVILLE VENEZUELA FOOD

Nashville Venezuela Food claims to make the best arepas in town, and it delivers. The origins of this indigenous dish pre-dates the arrival of the Europeans to South America. Its base is masarepa, a type of cornmeal that griddles up into corn cakes that are soft, smooth and somewhat starchy, perfect platforms to hold any number of good things to eat: shredded beef or chicken, fried plantains, yellow cheese, black beans, avocado, cilantro, carrots and cabbage salad. Tying it all together is a creamy jalapeño sauce, the last few drops of which left on your plate can be easily absorbed by the last bits of corn cake left between your fingers.

EXPERT TIP: Pair your arepas (or empanadas) with a cold, sweet chicha, a Venezuelan drink made from milk and either pasta or rice and topped with cinnamon.

GOJO ETHIOPIAN

Don’t come expecting fast service—typically only one server staffs the entire space—but do come here expecting friendly service, the scent of frankincense and lots of authentic Ethiopian food. For those not familiar with this cuisine, Ethiopian food is served communally, typically on a round tray placed in the middle of your party’s table. If you wait for the cutlery to arrive, you’ll be sitting there a long time; your eating utensils are already on the palms of your hands.

To help scoop up the savory stews and succulent sauces, the base of the meal is made up of injera, a somewhat spongy, slightly sour, fermented flatbread that is easy to tear into pieces and dunk into all the deliciousness.

With dishes such as red and yellow lentils and Ethiopian cabbage, vegans will be happy here. However, if dietary restrictions allow, don’t miss the doro wat. Arguably the most emblematic dish of Ethiopia, doro wat—which literally means “chicken stew” in Amharic—is nothing like the chicken stew your grandma used to make (unless

your grandma comes from Addis Ababa). Doro wat’s punching-above-its-weight flavor profile owes its impact to niter kibbeh, a spiced, clarified butter, and to berbere, a spice blend that typically includes fenugreek, paprika, hot chiles, carda mom and coriander.

EXPERT TIP: Order the traditional Ethiopian coffee. As much a ritual as it is an extraordinary cup of joe, restaurant staff roast the beans themselves and the coffee is served in a jebena (an Ethiopian coffee pot).

OSH RESTAURANT & GRILL

It’s reasonable to assume that most folks in Nashville have no idea whether or not they like Uzbek cuisine. It is also reasonable to assume that, outside of Uzbekistan itself, there are few places better than this town to discover the answer. That is because Nashville is home to OSH, a gleaming gem of a restaurant tucked inside a basic strip mall. In early 2022, this

From left: Discover delightful Thai street food at Degthai; don't miss dessert at OSH Restaurant & Grill; the shish kabobs stand out at Edessa; eat like kings and queens at King Tut's, when chowing down on the Royal Plate. Opening spread, left to right: Try the national dish of El Salvador at Pupuseria Reina la Bendición; Ethiopian coffee is a must at Gojo; bite into the arepas of your dreams at Nashville Venezuela Food.

place took 9th in the nation on Yelp’s Top 100 list. Not bad for a family-owned restaurant that opened just two years earlier.

As for the food, Uzbekistan once straddled the Silk Road, making it the perfect place to blend the flavors flowing back and forth between Asia and Europe across the Middle East. A great way to dive into this cuisine is simply to select from all the courses. For starters, try the lamb samosa, a crispy pastry filled with lamb, onions and spices. For the salad, consider the vinegret, a colorful combo of diced beetroots, boiled potatoes, onions, pickles and green peas. The Lagman soup is next, a tomato-based soup with lamb, vegetables and noodles. The main is osh itself, the most traditional Uzbek dish, a heaping plate of rice pilaf with braised lamb, carrots and spices served with homemade yogurt and

achichuk, thinly sliced tomatoes and onions seasoned with spices and basil. Don’t forget dessert: The baklava is divine, made from thin layers of pastry with walnuts, butter and syrup.

EXPERT TIP: With ample parking and large private rooms, OSH is an ideal place to feast with a group of friends.

PUPUSERIA REINA LA BENDICIÓN

If you can read Spanish, then you already know that this little El Salvadorian restaurant bills itself as “Queen of the Blessed Pupusa Makers.” Well, the crown fits; the pupusas here are outstanding. Considered the national dish of El Salvador, pupusas are thick corn cakes cooked fresh on a griddle and filled with beans, cheese and meat, typically served with Salvadoran

salsa roja. However, there is much more to this charming slice of Salvadoran authenticity than just pupusas. Reina la Bendición is also known for its mojarra frita and its camarones a la diabla: fried fish and spicy shrimp.

EXPERT TIP: Brush up on your Spanish before sitting down to dine. Your efforts are both appreciated and helpful.

DEGTHAI

From mild to native hot, this place—always clean and bright and pumping out pop music— makes Nolensville Pike part of the Thai street food scene. From its traditional pad Thai to the more fusion-forward stir fry of Jay’s Special (owner/chef), Degthai packs fountains of flavors into the food. Known for its friendly and

attentive service, Degthai presents an evergrowing number of locals with a dilemma: green curry or red? Vegans can feast happily here; the crispy, spicy tofu will tempt even the most ardent carnivore.

EXPERT TIP: Save the plane ticket to Bangkok and hang at Degthai instead, munching on kra prao moo kai dao: Thai stir fry with pork, holy basil, garlic and Thai chili pepper, all topped with a Thai fried egg.

EDESSA

Named for an ancient city in Mesopotamia, Edessa’s large dining room sets authentic Turkish and Kurdish dishes before Nashville patrons. A great place to start is with an appetizer platter;

among the temptations are grape leaves, tabbou leh, hummus, ezme (a mixture of fresh tomatoes, red and green peppers, onions, parsley, olive oil, lemon juice, pomegranate molasses and Turkish spices), baba ganoush (roasted eggplant puree mixed with garlic and seasoned with fresh lemon juice, olive oil and salt) and haydari, a creamy yogurt mixed with walnuts, garlic, mint and melt ed butter.

For main course dishes, consider tavuk sis, the chicken shish kabob or the Adana kebab, char grilled lamb and beef mixed with herbs and spices.

EXPERT TIP: Don’t leave without enjoying the Turkish kunefe (sweet cheese pastry) for dessert.

KING TUT’S

While this wonderful food truck and restaurant is not parked along the Nile, there’s no denying that King Tut’s will make you feel like you’re eating in Egypt. The charming, fenced-in patio could easily make you think you are sitting in some Cairo bistro, and the authentic, flavorful food might even convince you that you are. To get a wide variety of tastes, start with the sampler, a plate piled with hummus, pickles, fried eggplant, falafel and cabbage slaw. For the main, consider the Royal Plate, a generous serving of gyro chicken and lamb with saffron-enhanced basmati rice.

EXPERT TIP: One word: falafel.

Magical,

Mystical, Historical

The tales behind Music City’s sculptures

BY MARY SKINNER | PHOTOGRAPHY BY CHRISTOPHER HUGHES

Visitors from all over the world come to immerse themselves in Nashville’s dynamic music scene. Once here, they will also find themselves captivated by Music City’s ever-growing vibrant visual arts, from wall murals to public sculptures, art galleries to museums. Each piece has a fascinating story to tell; read on to learn more about our favorite outdoor art sculptures around Nashville.

A whimsical, colorful figure winds its way around Fannie Mae Dees Park as children climb over its humps and bumps. It has been named “The Dragon” by native Nashvillians, and tucked up under one of its humps is the

“Baby Dragon.” When this artwork was first imagined by Chilean artist Pedro Silva in the late 1970s, he visualized a large mosaic sea serpent.

This lively piece was a community project designed to bring together neighbors and help heal neighborhood strife that resulted from an urban renewal project. Silva and hundreds of community volunteers designed small scenes with mosaic tiles on the sculpture’s surface. The project was completed in 1981 and the park was officially named Fannie Mae Dees Park in memory of a beloved neighbor and activist. Locals choose to ignore the naming origins

and call it instead “The Dragon” in “Dragon Park.” It’s become the local mascot for this area of town, which is also home to Hillsboro Village. Visitors will see a dragon mural along the wall on Belcourt Avenue and the logo of a dragon on a nearby school sign. The dragons were restored in 2018 so they could be enjoyed for generations to come.

Music Row connects Hillsboro Village to downtown, and at the top of Music Row in the center of a traffic roundabout is the impressive bronze sculpture “Musica.” Designed by Nashville artist and sculptor Alan LeQuire and unveiled in 2003, the composition features nine colossal nude figures dancing in a circle. The 10-ton work of art is currently the largest sculpture group in the United States. According to LeQuire, “the sculpture represents all forms of music without reference to any one form or style. It is meant to provide a visual icon for the area and for the city as a whole.”

Using live models, whose facial and bodily features he depicted, LeQuire created two Caucasian women and one Caucasian man, an African American man and woman, one Asian-American woman, a Native American man and a Hispanic man and woman.

“Musica” is likely the most discussed of all of Music City’s local art. Conservative citizens have objected to the public display of nude figures, while local pranksters often dress the statues to depict certain events, such as plaid kilts and scarfs for St. Patrick’s Day and face masks during the pandemic lockdown. Swirling through the air on the east bank of the Cumberland River, “Ghost Ballet” stands 100 feet tall, 100 feet wide and 60 feet deep. Sculptor and conceptual artist Alice Aycock, a resident of New York City, was selected to create a piece to focus attention on the river, attract pedestrians both day and night and foster a collective memory based on place.

The sculpture was installed in 2007 after a national competition to build the very first piece of art commissioned under Nashville’s “Percent for Art” ordinance, which sets aside one percent of Metro’s capital projects budget for public art and is administered by the Metro Nashville Art Commission.

Aycock has described her work as static animation, seeming to change and suggest a sort of dance as you move around the sculpture. The work can be viewed from Riverfront Park at the end of Lower Broadway. An excellent example of reuse, “Ghost Ballet” rests on a gantry crane, once used to build and launch barges. In 2010, Americans for the Arts named it one of the best 50 public projects of the last 50 years in Public Art network’s “Year in Review Retrospective.”

The marriage of history and art is reflected through the “Witness Walls,” which pays homage to Nashville’s Civil Rights story.

Alan LeQuire's "Musica" (left) is a visual representation of music.

"Ghost Ballet" (right) is an icon on the Cumberland River. Opposite: "The Dragon" beckons in Fannie Mae Dees Park.

California landscape architect and artist Walter Hood designed the sculptural concrete walls with period images to create a site of remembrance and commemoration.

Installed in 2017 beside the Davidson County Courthouse, “Witness Walls” conveys the turbulent times of a 1960s segregated downtown Nashville when the civil rights sitins brought national attention to the city.

In an effort to segregate the lunch counters in the city’s downtown business district, nonviolent protests in the form of sit-ins were organized by Black students from local colleges and the Nashville Christian Leadership Council. More than 150 students were eventually arrested for refusing to vacate store lunch counters when ordered to do so by police. At trial, the students were represented by a group of 13 lawyers, headed by Alexander Looby. In April 1960, Looby's home was bombed, although he escaped uninjured. Soon after a large demonstration took place with more than 3,000 participants

marching from the Tennessee State Capitol to the City Hall, which is now known as the Davidson County Courthouse, where the “Witness Walls” can be viewed.

The protestors met Mayor Ben West on the nearby steps, and West conceded that segregation was immoral. This was the first major step in desegregating not just lunch counters but many other public places in the city. Many of these students went on to become major leaders in the American Civil Rights Movement: John Lewis, Diane Nash and Bernard Lafayette, Jr., among them.

Just west of downtown you will find Nashville’s first art park, named for William Edmondson (1874-1951), the city's celebrated self-taught sculptor and son of former slaves. Edmondson, who said that his carvings of figures and animals were divinely inspired, was the first African American to have a solo show at New York's Museum of Modern Art, in 1937. Though you won’t find any of his sculptures in this park (they can be found at

the nearby Tennessee State Museum and at Cheekwood Botanical Gardens) you will find some of the city’s best pieces of sculpture including “The Gathering” by Sherri Warren Hunter, a renowned artist from Bell Buckle, Tennessee.

“The Gathering” is the result of another community art project. It was originally created and located on Music Row in front of the Oasis House, an organization which helps young people in crisis. The four pieces of sculpture were designed by Hunter, who turned their creation into a community event—she recruited volunteers and taught them how to cut and set mosaic.

In 2013, the Oasis Center donated the sculptures to the Metro Arts Commission; the pieces were moved to Edmonson Park and restored to their original glory.

For visitors interested in taking a narrated tour of Music City’s public art, a free digital tour can be found at nashvillesites.org.

"Witness Walls" (left) depicts life in the 1960s in segregated Nashville. "The Gathering" (right) brought together members of the community to embrace the arts.

NASHVILLE STAMPEDE

The Music City now has its very own Professional Bull Riders expansion team BY JENNIFER MCKEE

From the east to the west, tougher than the rest, way out in the lead. You can try to catch ’em but you’ll never get ’em, Stampede.”

So go the lyrics to Brice Long’s “Stampede,” the anthem of the newly formed Nashville Stampede, a Professional Bull Riders (PBR) Team Series club, one of eight founding teams that are part of this inaugural series, owned by Morris Communications Company (MCC), this publication’s parent organization.

“Our company is part of a long-standing and growing love affair with the West here in America and around the world,” says MCC Chairman and Morris family patriarch Billy Morris. “The Western mystique is powerful and getting bigger. It’s something people everywhere want to associate with. This new bull riding league plays right into this phenomenon, and we’re so proud to be a founding team associated with it.”

The Team Series transforms the individual nature of bull riding into a team sport, one in which riders compete as a group for a national championship title. The seasons consists of 28 games; at its end, the team with the highest aggregate score is the winner.

The Stampede chose PBR World Champion (2005 and 2007) Justin McBride as the team’s head coach and Brazil’s Kaique Pacheco, 2018 PBR World Champion, as team captain.

The Stampede call the Bridgestone Arena home, joining the Nashville Predators NHL team, which has played there since 1998.

For more information on the Stampede, visit pbr.com/teams/ stampede

Dolly Parton inside her tour bus, 1979.

PHOTO: Raeanne Rubenstein

NO MATTER HOW YOU ROLLED INTO TOWN, THE STORY OF COUNTRY MUSIC—AND HOW COUNTRY MUSIC STARS TOURED THAT STORY OVER THE YEARS—IS RIGHT HERE IN THE HEART OF DOWNTOWN NASHVILLE.

IT’S THE TOUR AND THE DESTINATION GET TICKETS

Coach Justin McBride with the team at a preseason event. Opposite page: The Stampede's Aaron Williams rides Yippee High Cowboy of Clark View Farms at that same event in Tryon, North Carolina.

8 SECONDS TO GLORY

Justin McBride hopes to build a culture of winners with the Nashville Stampede

BY JENNIFER MCKEE

Justin McBride is a two-time Professional Bull Riders World Champion (2005 and 2007) with a record 32 career wins; he was the first rider to earn more than $5 million over the course of his career. McBride was inducted in PBR’s Ring of Honor in 2009. Since retiring from the sport, he has done color commentary on CBS network and CBS Sports Network for PBR’s “Unleash the Beast” series. In early 2022, McBride took on his latest role, head coach of the Nashville Stampede, one of eight founding teams that are part of the inaugural PBR Team Series.

What initially piqued your interest in bull riding?

It was something I was exposed to from birth. I was always around it, and what piqued my interest is when I actually got on a calf. I'd love to say a bull, but not a bull, like a little calf.

Do you remember how it felt the first time you got on a bull in competition?

I got on a bull in competition when I was 12 years old as an exhibition at a big amateur bull riding [event] in Nebraska. He was a big 1,400-1,500 pounder and I stayed on him, and everybody went nuts. I was little and this bull looked like Godzilla.

What was the best piece of advice you ever received?

Probably from my dad. He said, "You don't get hurt when you're trying hard," which obviously we know is not 100 percent accurate. But it is a really strong piece of advice. You get hurt way worse when you give up in a fight, when you become defenseless. His point was that as long as you keep trying, no matter what the situation you can get out of it. But when you give up and you don't try, you can get hurt really bad doing this. He told

me that when I was four or five years old. Those were the kind of things he told me about bull riding.

Walk me through your journey to becoming a world champion.

I had success as a kid. I had success in bull riding, but also in bareback riding. I did multiple events and was able to go to college on a full ride to UNLV. When I left college after one year, the PBR is where I went because the guys I really looked up to, admired, wanted to emulate and tried to compete against—and hopefully someday be able to beat—they started the PBR. I had some success early on, but had some growing pains as well. I had some learning to do. It was as much mental as it was physical for me. I had some close calls and didn't get it done for the first part of my career. Then I won my first one [PBR World Championship] in 2005 and won in 2007. Then I retired in 2008.

What’s the most important skill a bull rider should have?

I don't think you can narrow it down to just one, but if I had to throw one out, I would say balance.

What are some of the mental preparations a bull rider must make?

ways over the last 10, 12, 15 years, whatever it's been now, of say ing the same thing over and over and trying to make it interesting in order that people could understand what I was talking about.

What’s your vision for the team?

What’s changed about the sport from your first competition to today?

The goal is still the same, right? You gotta ride a bull for eight seconds. Guys pay a lot more attention to the bulls and really study the bulls more than they did in my generation. A big part of that is the access to video. You can find video of any bull out there through different means of social media and guys sharing videos.

First and foremost, a rider has got to overcome the fear. Unlike any other sport, you're dealing with a 2,000-pound animal or there abouts, so it is dangerous. It's a little bit uncontrollable at times. That's the first mental obstacle; after that, I think it's having an understanding of what you're doing and mentally trusting in that.

What do you carry with you from being a bull rider to being a coach?

Coaching and bull riding are the same for me. It's figuring out how to be at your best. I want these guys to figure out how to be the best versions of themselves they can be. And that was the way I approached bull riding. I tried every time I rode to be the best version of myself that I could be on that given ride.

How did your broadcasting career prepare you for your coaching career?

Maybe it will help me to communicate my message better. I have had to try to find a lot of different

My vision is to build a winning franchise. That's the goal at the end of the day. It's more than just winning a game. It's win ning championships and building a culture of winners, and that's something that takes time. We've got a great ownership group to do it with. I can't imagine trying to build a winning program with any other group than the Nashville Stampede and the Morris family.

It makes it very easy to follow for new fans. It gives all fans some thing to sink their teeth in. Your favorite guy might be on a certain team. Well now you've gotta keep cheering that whole team on for your favorite guy to have a chance to win anything. So, I think you start getting invested in teams. You'll see fans start picking out personalities and decide they like that team or dislike a certain team because of it. You're gonna see rivalries start to form. There are a lot of big personalities in the sport of bull riding...and I think fans are gonna find people that they can relate to. WAS LITTLE AND THIS BULL LOOKED LIKE

How does the new PBR Team Series enhance the fan experience?

– JUSTIN MCBRIDE ON THE FIRST BULL HE RODE IN COMPETITION

NASHVILLE’S CIVIL RIGHTS STAND

Music City didn’t back down from the Civil Rights fight

BY JENNIFER MCKEE

Nashville is an important stop on the U.S. Civil Rights Trail: It set the stage for lunch counter sit-ins, nonviolent protests in which college students, ministers and other activists chose to stay seated at “non-colored” lunch counters despite the racial slurs hurled against them. It all took place in the Fifth Avenue Historic District and its Woolworth Building, now the Woolworth Theatre (see p. 12). 221 5th Ave. N.

Among those who participated in the sit-ins was former U.S. Representative John Lewis, for whom a street is named

in downtown Nashville.

You can also learn more about the Nashville sit-ins inside the Civil Rights Room at the main branch of the Nashville Public Library. Take a seat at a symbolic lunch counter, read the Ten Rules of Conduct carried by the protestors during the sit-ins and watch testimonies from those who were part of the Civil Rights movement. A vast number of materials are available. 615 Church St.

The Clark Memorial United Methodist Church was the meeting site for Nashville’s Civil Rights efforts. It was home

to workshops on non-violent protests, and in 1961, Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. led the annual meeting of the Southern Christian Leadership Conference there. The church is still active in the Nashville community. 1014 14th Ave. N.

The bombing of civil rights attorney Z. Alexander Looby’s home in 1960 set off a march of more than 3,000 souls, who walked silently past the Tennessee State Capitol and ended at the Davidson County Courthouse. Nashville Mayor Ben West met with student activist Diane Nash and additional protestors on the steps of the courthouse, and after a heated discussion agreed that the city’s lunch counters should be integrated. This important step toward desegregating Nashville is commemorated with a plaque in front of the courthouse. 1 Public Square

The newest stop on the trail is the National Museum of African American Music, which opened in January 2021. Here, you’ll learn about the impact of Black musicians and executives on the music world, and take an active part in learning about history through the many interactive experiences. The museum’s robust event lineup lets you make an even deeper contribution. 510 Broadway

Also on the trail are Fisk University, the first AfricanAmerican school accredited by the Southern Association of Colleges and Schools, and Griggs Hall at the American Baptist College. Both are known for educating leaders who were crucial to the Civil Rights movement. For more information on the U.S. Civil Rights Trail, visit civilrightstrail.com

Opposite page: Protestors gather for the march to the Davidson County Courthouse. This page, clockwise from bottom left: The march comes up the capitol steps; student activist Diane Nash and others meet with Mayor Ben West (second from left); John Lewis leads a protest through Nashville.

GET TO KNOW

Nashville’s neighborhoods are full of color, whether it be from their murals, music halls or green spaces. Let us show you their environs in a whole new light.

East Nashville

A food- and drink-centric neighborhood across the Cumberland River from downtown, East Nashville has long been known as a creative hot spot and for its cultural diversity. Margot Cafe & Bar first put this neighborhood on the map as a must-visit dining destination; others such as Redheaded Stranger and Butcher & Bee continue the tradition. Into craft beer? The East Nashville Beer Works is another must. East Nashville is also full of historic homes, music shops, and you can even stay in a 115-year-old historic church, The Russell. visitmusiccity.com/explore-nashville/neighborhoods/east-nashville

GET TO KNOW

12South

The ultimate walkable neighborhood, 12South’s halfmile main stretch mixes Southern chains such as Holly Williams’ White’s Mercantile and Reese Witherspoon’s Draper James with unique local boutiques and vintage shops. You’ll find stunning jewelry at Serendipity, contem porary women’s clothing at Emerson Grace and premium denim at Imogene + Willie. 12South is also dotted with some of Nashville’s best restaurants and coffee shops; Frothy Monkey, Five Daughters Bakery and Edley’s BarB-Que are standouts. Park the car and make the jaunt on a sunny afternoon. visitmusiccity.com/explorenashville/ neighborhoods/12south

Germantown

Named for the influx of German immigrants in the mid19th century, Germantown is full of period charm, with restaurants housed in restored Victorian buildings, boutiques found in former warehouses and brick sidewalks. The neighborhood, which is on the National Register of Historic Places, is home to the gleaming Tennessee State Museum, the Nashville Farmers Market and the Bicentennial Capitol Mall State Park. First Tennessee Park, home to the Nashville Sounds (a Triple-A affiliate of the Texas Rangers), can also be found here. Germantown is a popular starting point for tours, such as the NashTrash musical comedy tour and Nashville Food Adventures. visitmusiccity.com/explore-nashville/neighborhoods/ germantown

Green Hills

An affluent suburb known for its stately homes and boutique shopping, Green Hills’ ZIP codes are some of Nashville’s most coveted. Shopping here is anchored by The Mall at Green Hills, home to more than 100 specialty stores and eateries, with 55 brands unique to Nashville, including Tennessee’s only Nordstrom and the RH Nashville Gallery, plus a state-of-the-art Dillard’s flagship. Green Hills is also home to the celeb-adored H. Audrey boutique (Faith Hill and Gwyneth Paltrow are fans), owned by Holly Williams. Less conspicuous but perhaps the most famous spot in Green Hills is the Bluebird Cafe, a listening room made famous by the TV series “Nashville.” visitmusiccity.com/explore-nashville/neighborhoods/green-hills

GET TO KNOW

The Gulch

Between Music Row and downtown lies The Gulch, a bustling, LEED-certified community that dates to before the Civil War. It gets its name from the natural geographic depression of the 110-acre neighborhood; it was designed with connectivity, walkability and public transportation in mind, and there are numerous bike and walking paths here. Dining and nightlife options abound, such as the popular Biscuit Love (above), Party Fowl, Whiskey Kitchen and Saint Anejo. Like public art? Bring home a coveted selfie by posing in front of Kelsey Montague’s “What Lifts You Wings,” and get inspired by Allison Johnson’s “Acoustic Skyline.” explorethegulch.com

Hillsboro Village

Adjacent to both Vanderbilt and Belmont universities, an amble through Hillsboro Village makes for a delightful excursion. Breakfast lovers will want to make Pancake Pantry (above) a frequent stop; pancakes are scratch-made, and more than a dozen varieties are available, making multiple trips necessary. When it’s time for lunch, don’t miss the Grilled Cheeserie, where the Pimento Mac & Chee delighted Guy Fieri on “Diners, Drive-ins and Dives.” When it’s time to work off some calories, take a pleasing walk down 21st Avenue S., where you’ll find boutiques such as Molly Green, South and Dress Up Nashville. visitmusiccity.com/explore-nashville/ neighborhoods/belmont-hillsboro-village

GET TO KNOW

The Nations

A neighborhood full of pubs, coffee shops, spas and gyms, The Nations is just west of downtown Nashville and considered one of the fastest-growing enclaves in Music City. When hometown brewer Fat Bottom Brewing Company was looking to expand its operations in 2016, it moved to a 33,000-square-foot facility here. Another popular craft beer spot, Southern Grist Brewing Co., grew its business in The Nations. In the mood for some sparring? Nashville’s boxing gym, Music City Boxing, will put your skills to the test. No matter where you end up in this neighborhood, you’ll find the vibe to be casual, but the offerings top-notch. thenations615.com

Sylvan Park

A quiet, relaxing neighborhood Southwest of downtown, Sylvan Park is flanked by The Nations and known for its locally-owned restaurants, bars and shops. For the sporting set, McCabe Golf Course, inside McCabe Park, can be found here, in addition to the Richland Creek Greenway. The greenway connects Sylvan Park to the nearby Cherokee Park, an area known for its architectural significance, and the White Bridge Road trailhead, home to Dutchman’s Curve and the Great Train Wreck of 1918. It’s also home to the Nashville Opera and the Nashville Ballet, the largest professional opera and ballet companies in Tennessee. visitmusiccity.com/explore-nashville/neighborhoods/sylvan-park

GET TO KNOW

Wedgewood-Houston

Discover art around every corner in Wedgewood-Houston, known for its proliferation of galleries. Every first Saturday is the WeHo Art Crawl, when art lovers hop between a dozen galleries within walking distance of each other. After that thirsty work, head over to Diskin Cider, Nashville’s only craft cidery. Need a harder spirit? Try the boutique creations at Nashville Craft Distillery. This is also where you’ll find the Fairgrounds Nashville, home to the Nashville Flea Market, Nashville Speedway and Tennessee State Fair. Many of the buildings in WeHo are converted factories; one of its newest is the Soho House Hotel (above), which has 47 rooms, a pool, gym, cinema and performance space. visitmusiccity.com/explore-nashville/neighborhoods/wedgewood-houston

J. MICHAELS CLOTHIERS

J. Michaels Clothiers is not only Nashville’s bespoke, custom, and made-to-measure clothing specialist, but also one of the premier custom clothiers in America. Founded in 1989, our business grew originally by calling on accomplished men in their offices or homes and consulting them from the perspective of building a great visual reputation by using their clothing as an effective tool in nonverbal communication.

Now occupying a 100-year-old home on West End Avenue, we are fortunate to have long standing relationships with well-known luxury clothing brands like Oxxford Clothes, Hickey Freeman, Peter Millar, several private label custom makers (including a second-generation Italian Family bench-grade maker in New York), four custom shirtmakers and a dozen or so of the finest fabric houses and mills in the world including Loro Piana, Erminegildo Zegna, and Holland and Sherry. There are few places in the country that offer as broad a selection of fabrics or as extensive a choice in workmanship, ensuring that our clients always find what is best suited to their wants, needs, taste level, style preferences, and budget. Couple that with a friendly, highly trained, professional staff, and you are sure to feel welcome and at home in this sophisticated, yet relaxed, environment replete with a well-stocked bar.

3305 West End Avenue, Nashville, TN 37203 615.321.0686

www.jmichaelsclothiers.com

CATIO CAT CAFE AND LOUNGE

A vibrant cat lounge and adoption center, the Catio Cat Cafe and Lounge is a haven for rescue cats to spend their days socializing with guests during kitty time, cat yoga and other special events. This enrichment allows the cats’ personalities to emerge and is a valuable step towards finding them their forever homes. Since December 2019, there have been more than 2,500 adoptions at the Catio! 80% of all adoption fees go directly to the Nashville Cat Rescue, the Catio’s partner. All cats are spayed/ neutered, are fully vaccinated, and are least 12 weeks old before they come to the Catio. Approximately two dozen cats are on site at any time. It’s the perfect place for Nashville residents and tourists alike to relax, play and adopt—so grab a snack or beverage, then head inside for plenty of snuggles and eskimo kisses!

2416 Music Valley Drive, Suite 114 Nashville, Tennessee 37214

615.982.6185

www.cationashville.com

WALK EAT NASHVILLE

Go behind-the-scenes at top rated Nashville res taurants and savor favorite local dishes at Walk Eat Nashville, named one of the U.S.A. Today top 15 food tours in the country. In the Downtown Nashville tour, explore five culinary hotspots (four savory stops plus dessert) over the course of a three-hour tour; between bites, you’ll stroll through the Music City Walk of Fame and learn fun facts about land marks such as Ryman Auditorium, Country Music Hall of Fame, the Johnny Cash Museum and the Schermerhorn Symphony Center, and also hear sto ries about the city that locals don’t even know! Or, let the East Nashville tour introduce you to neigh borhood often regarded as the coolest in America; among the five stops are chef-owned restaurants, specialty shops owned by creative entrepreneurs and several foods voted “Best of Nashville.” Check website for dates and times. Corporate tours and private experiences can also be scheduled.

615.587.6138

FLY SOUTH KING BABY

Nashville’s Premier Full Service Fly Shop. Located in the heart of Mid-town West End and Broadway, only two city blocks from Vanderbilt, and less than five minutes from downtown. Fly South has one of the most complete selections of fly fishing gear in the country, as well as a fly tying department most tiers only dream about. Fly South also carries a full selection of men’s and women’s outdoor and travel clothing, luggage, sunglasses, gifts, and original artwork.

Over 20 years of experience outfitting, guiding, and teaching anglers in the Mid-South.

115 19th Avenue South, Nashville, TN 37203 615.341.0420

www.flysouth.net

With locations in both 12 South and East Nashville, King Baby embodies the spirit of Americana with rock n’ roll sex appeal. In the latest collections, Founder & Designer Mitchell Binder has captured a fresh twist on clas sic silver styles, reinventing traditional jewelry staples with the highest quality design. The brand continues to handcraft all its jewelry in the USA, using lost wax casting and hand fabri cation every day out of its Santa Monica studio. Artisan jewelers finish each piece for a distinc tive aesthetic that cannot be found elsewhere. Offering both men’s and women’s styles, fans can always find something new to add to their collection. The lifestyle brand has brick-andmortar locations in Santa Monica, Las Vegas, Nashville, New Hope, and throughout China, along with a very strong e-commerce presence.

2814 12th Ave South Nashville, TN 37204 615.248.4318

1004 Gallatin Ave Nashville, TN 37206 615.249.0203

www.KingBaby.com

HAYMAKERS & CO.

Located at West End Avenue & Acklen Park in a renovated bungalow, Haymakers & Co. is the consummate men’s one-stop retail experience for men’s tailored and casual clothing, accessories, and provisions. Founded in 2014 as the offspring of J. Michaels Clothiers, Haymakers has been named one of the South’s Best Shops by Garden and Gun and Southern Living, offering a well-curated, diverse assortment of upscale brands including LBM 1911, Ring Jacket, Stenstroms, Massimo Alba, Hickey Freeman, Peter Millar, Jack Victor Private Label, Trussini, Faherty, Gran Sasso, Brax, Hiltl, Ballin, Alan Paine SMN Denim, Monfrere, Citizens of Humanity and 100 Hands. Shoes from Alden, G. Brown, Alan Payne, Pastore and DiBianca. Belts and leathergoods from Martin Dingman, W. Kleinberg and Torino. And, when you really need or want to step up your game, we offer the finest custommade garments measured and fitted by the skilled hands of highly trained people who know what they’re doing. Couple that with a knowledgeable yet easy going staff who is also here to serve you drinks on the house, and we think you’ll find Haymakers and Co. to be a true knockout punch. We look forward to welcoming you as our guest.

3307 West End Avenue, Nashville, TN 37203 615.810.9442

www.HaymakersandcoNashville.com

PUBLISHER

PUBLISHER Kathy Fox

EDITORIAL & DESIGN

EDITOR Jennifer McKee

ART DIRECTOR Hadley Kincaid

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

William Harwood, Mary Skinner, Madison Sullivan

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Isaac Arjonilla, Christopher Hughes, Nathan Zucker

A PUBLICATION OF MCC MAGAZINES, LLC

A DIVISION OF MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS COMPANY, LLC 735 BROAD STREET, AUGUSTA, GA 30901

MCC MAGAZINES, LLC

PRESIDENT Tina Battock

VICE PRESIDENT Scott Ferguson

DIRECTOR OF MANUFACTURING & PRODUCTION Sherry Brown ACCOUNTING MANAGER Veronica Brooks

CIRCULATION BUSINESS MANAGER Michelle Rowe

MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS COMPANY, LLC

CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III

CEO Craig S. Mitchell

E-MAILS FOR ALL MCC EMPLOYEES, EXCEPT CONTRIBUTORS: FIRSTNAME.LASTNAME@MORRIS.COM

©2022 by MCC Magazines, LLC. All rights reserved. This publication may not be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, in whole or in part, without the express prior written permission of the publisher. The publisher assumes no responsibility to any party for the content of any advertisement in the publication, including any errors or omissions therein. By placing an order for an advertisement, the advertiser agrees to indemnify the publisher against any claims relating to the advertisement.

Printed in the United States of America.

Monumental History

The Bicentennial Capitol Mall State Park’s 95-Bell Carillon looms large over visitors, representing the 95 counties of Tennessee. The park stands in the shadow of the Tennessee State Capitol. The bells in the carillon ring every day between 6 am and 11 pm (on the quarter hour and at the top of the hour), making for an immersive musical experience.