Where Magazine New Orleans September 2023

Magazine Street

Shopping

Haute Hotel

Dining

Beyoncé, Garth

Brooks, Drake and More

FASHION

A BROAD AND INCLUSIVE LOOK AT AMERICAN FASHION'S PAST, PRESENT

SOUND + LIGHT EXPERIENCE

Expressions of America is an immersive, sound and light show that combines cutting-edge technology and special effects with the real words and stories of everyday people who made a tremendous impact during a time of monumental conflict.

Tickets on sale now!

Tickets on sale now!

expressionsofamerica.org

Picasso

Mr. Brainwash

Jose Basso

Rembrandt

The New Orleans Museum of Art morphs into a mini Met Gala with “Fashioning America.”

Designer Ji Won Choi’s 2021 Red Jogakbo Dress, part of the “Fashioning America: Grit to Glamour” exhibit at the New Orleans Musuem of Art. ©SOFIA BROGI

VISIT THE HISTORIC FRENCH MARKET DISTRICT

Long before French explorers founded New Orleans in 1718, Native Americans had established a bustling trading post on the site of what is now known as the French Market. e nation’s oldest public market continues to thrive today, with a variety of fresh produce vendors, eateries, ea market stalls, stand-alone shops and popular annual events, such as the Creole Tomato Festival. In addition to the open-air market, the French Market District includes the Upper Pontalba Buildings surrounding Jackson Square (the rst apartment complex in the U.S.), the Shops of the Colonnade and the riverfront Crescent Park. For a full lineup of o erings and free events, visit frenchmarket.org.

VENDOR SPOTLIGHT

Dutch Alley

Artist’s Co-op

Describing her work as contemporary African-in uenced folk art, Wanda Wiggins creates mixed-media collages using imported African fabrics combined with other selected fabrics and hand-painted acrylic or decorative paper for the background. While Wanda repeats the use of the images and the African fabrics, each of Wiggins’ pieces are unique.

MARKET MERCH

Local favorite T-shirt and gift retailer

Dirty Coast has joined the French Market family by opening a new French Quarter location in the historic Upper Pontalba Building on Jackson Square at 630 Chartres Street. For more than 15 years

Dirty Coast’s shirts have served as secret handshakes, game day standards and Mardi Gras uniforms for locals and visitors alike.

WHAT’S HAPPENING

September 16

Hispanic Heritage Festival

Join us for our Hispanic Heritage Month celebration featuring a full day of live music, Hispanic and Latino food booths and community organizations.

October 21

Boo Carré Halloween

Haunt

Bring the family to the French Market for a spooktaculur day of trick-or-treating, live music and activities. Costuming is encouraged!

© ZACK SMITH

When I rst began writing for WhereTraveler, I was assigned the shopping and arts beats. Having been named “best dressed” and “most artistic” during my senior year in high school, it seemed a tailor-made job. And as a New Orleans newcomer, exploring its numerous shops, galleries and museums was an ideal way to familiarize myself with the city.

In this issue we return to my old turf, with a visit to the New Orleans Museum of Art and a shopping spree along Magazine Street, inspired by NOMA’s “Fashioning America: Grit to Glamour” exhibition. Celebrating the contributions and careers of more than 100 designers, makers and brands, the wide-ranging roundup covers nearly 200 years of American style, from sidewalk chic to red-carpet ready.

Taking her cue from the exhibit’s “Grit to Glamour” subtitle, contributor (and avid shopper) Lorin Gaudin hit Magazine Street in search of clothing stores that t both categories. With six miles of prime retailing to choose from, the hardest part was narrowing down the list.

Elsewhere this month, we gear up for the return of Saints game-day tailgating, dig into the onset of food-fest season and dine aound at local hotels. Garth Brooks, Drake, Beyoncé, the citywide NOLAxNOLA showcase; there’s plenty for music lovers to indulge in as well. row on something fashionable and get going!

DOUG BRANTLEY Editor, WhereTraveler ® New Orleans @whereneworleans

PUBLISHER

Lois Sutton, 504.522.6468, lois.sutton@morris.com

EDITOR

Doug Brantley

ART DIRECTOR

Hadley Kincaid

CONTRIBUTORS

Jenny Adams, Shawn Fink, Lorin Gaudin, Terri Simon

ACCOUNT MANAGER Vincent Tortorich, 504.522.6468, vincent.tortorich@morris.com

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TOP STOPS

SEPT. 17, 23, 24 & 31

LINEUP

FOOD FESTIVALS 7

Hungry for a taste of the town? Food-fest season kicks o Sept. 17 with the new Frozen Treats Fest, which brings cool family fun (stilt walkers, an ice cream eating contest) to the Broadside, while the city’s signature pastry is showcased Sept. 23 during Beignet Fest at City Park. More in the mood for schnitzel and beer? Get a jump on Oktoberfest Sept. 23-24 at Faubourg Brewery. Poultry lovers get their ll Sept. 31Oct.1 at the National Fried Chicken Festival along the lakefront. @frozensweetsfest; beignetfest.com; faubourgbrewery.com; friedchickenfestival.com

GREAT THINGS

Louisiana Contemporary All Month

This annual Ogden Museum of Southern Art juried exhibition spotlights 31 up-and-coming talents from around the state working in a wide range of media. ogdenmuseum.org

Louisiana’s Sugar Bowl Country Kickoff

Sept. 2

After ripping the roof off of Tiger Stadium last year, Garth Brooks lands at the Superdome to headline this inaugural concert heralding the start of college football season. Lainey Wilson and the Nitty Gritty Dirt Band serve as opening acts. caesarssuperdome.com

Southern Decadence

Through Sept. 4

Thousands descend on the city over Labor Day weekend for the South’s largest LGBTQ+ gathering. The highlight is an over-the-top foot parade that begins at

2 pm Sept. 3 at the corner of Royal and Barracks.

New Orleans Saints

Sept. 10

The Black and Gold come marching into the Dome for their rst of cial home game of the season, taking on the Tennessee Titans. Kickoff is at noon. caesars superdome.com

Drake

Sept. 20

He packed the house with close to 17,000 fans, when he last performed at the Smoothie King Center in 2018. Be in that number when the four-time Grammy winner returns, joined by 21 Savage. smoothie kingcenter.com

Beyoncé

Sept. 27

Queen Bey pulls into the Caesars Superdome on the nal leg of her globe-trotting, record-breaking Renaissance World Tour. As of press time, tickets were still available, ranging from $96…to $5112. caesars superdome.com

NOLAxNOLA

Sept. 28-Oct. 8

Born out of the pandemic, this citywide celebration of New Orleans’ music culture serves up performances by hundreds of great local acts at dozens of venues around town, from neighborhood bars to full-on concert halls. neworleans. com/nolaxnola

CAESARS SUPERDOME

Sept. 2: Louisiana’s Sugar Bowl Country Kickoff; Sept. 27: Beyoncé. caesarssuper dome.com

CIVIC THEATRE

Sept. 22: Broken Social Scene; Sept. 29: The Mavericks. civicnola.com

HOUSE OF BLUES

Sept. 6: Devon Allman and Donovan Frankenreiter; Sept. 20: Kari Faux; Sept. 24: TV Girl; Sept. 29: Todrick Hall. hob.com

JOY THEATER

Sept. 2: Yung Bleu; Sept. 13: Jessie Murph; Sept. 16: Girl Named Tom; Sept. 21: Victoria Monet; Sept 24: LadyBeast Productions Presents: Otherworlds. thejoytheater.com

MAHALIA JACKSON THEATER

Sept. 7: Anthony Jeselnik. mahaliajacksontheater.com

ORPHEUM THEATRE

Sept. 4: Bad Omens; Sept. 15: Jason Isabell; Sept. 16: Fortune Feimster; Sept. 26: Corinne Bailey Rae. orpheumnola.net

SMOOTHIE KING CENTER

Sept. 1: Suicide Boys; Sept. 15: Dave Chappelle; Sept. 16: Odesza; Sept 19: Lil Baby; Sept 20: Drake. smoothiekingcenter.com

TOULOUSE THEATRE

Sept. 13: TAUK and Kanika Moore; Sept. 21: Scotty ATL. toulouse theatre.com

BEIGNET FEST FRIED CHICKEN FESTIVAL

WHERE NOW

Fashion, American Style

The New Orleans Museum of Art’s “Fashioning America” celebrates close to two centuries of homegrown couture Doug Brantley

Enter the Fashioning America: Grit to Glamour exhibit at the New Orleans Museum of Art (noma.org), and you’re greeted by two Crescent City style icons: 19th-century designer Madame Olympe Boisse and 21st-century bounce artist Big Freedia. On loan from Los Angeles’ Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising, Boisse’s 1866 brightly embroidered, metallic-trimmed gown is bookended by Tyron Perrin’s glittery green getup the Queen Diva debuted earlier this year at the Miss Universe pageant—encapsulating both the breadth of the exhibition and of the national clothing industry itself.

Spotlighting more than 100 designers and American labels (Boisse’s

being among the nation’s oldest), with special emphasis on Indigenous, Black and Native American makers, the exhibit swings from past to present, streetwear to evening wear, swimwear to ready-to-wear. There’s a denim frock coat from the 1850s, Isabel Toledo’s prototype for Michelle Obama’s 2009 inauguration suit, a 1960s “Nixon” paper dress, a 1970s scarf dress by LaVetta Forbes (another New Orleanian), Nudie Cohn’s rhinestone-studded Western wear, Olga Erteszek undergarments, Rihanna’s Savage X Fenty lingerie, a puffy 1990s Tommy Hilfiger jumpsuit worn by Missy Elliot and Teri Greeves’ traffic-stopping, beaded highheeled sneakers.

Halston, Vera Wang, Ralph Lauren,

Anna Sui and Nike are joined by less familiar names and brands, such as Lloyd “Kiva” New, Natalie “Alabama” Chanin, Olivia Anthony, Shelly Xu and Fort Lonesome. And throughout the exhibit, garments are interspersed with fashion-focused art and ephemera, like Jordan Casteel’s painting of a Harlem clothing shop owner, film clips from 1973’s legendary “Battle of Versailles” fashion show and a paper fan advertising Madame Boisse’s Canal Street shop.

Also on view is the tandem Ring Redux exhibit, which reimagines traditional jewelry designs through 100plus avant-garde pieces by contemporary international artists, incorporating unconventional materials, including spun polyester and goat hair.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: JORDAN CASTEEL'S "OURLANDO," MADAME OLYMPE BOISSE'S 1866 GOWN, LLOYD "KIVA" NEW'S 1950S WOMAN'S DAY DRESS, AN 1890 PAIR OF LEATHER-AND-METAL BOOTS BY SOROSIS TRADEMARK LUXURIES FOR A.E. LITTLE CO., ANNA SUI'S 2017 COWGIRL AND COWBOY ENSEMBLES AND BILL CUNNINHAM'S 1940S FLORAL HAT

OPPOSITE PAGE FROM LEFT: TOMMY HILFIGER'S 2019 TOMMY X ZENDAYA

ENSEMBLE AND PATRICK KELLY'S 1980S BUTTON DRESS AND GLOVES

Dress Up, Dress Down

Fashion at the intersection of grit and glam

LORIN GAUDIN

The New Orleans Museum of Art’s “Fashioning America: Grit to Glamour’’ exhibit (see p. 10) is a fresh and fascinating look at the world of wearable art from runway to the roadway—a show of clothing style that touches then and now through innovation, diversity, size inclusivity, sustainability, spunk and sex. It’s an oversized walk-in closet hung with everything from evening wear to lingerie, sweeping, mind-blowing, magical, moving and motivating.

To satisfy the urge for re-envisioning your own closet contents— whether grit, glam or a bit of both—a shop-the-looks stroll along stylish Magazine Street is in order.

POP CULTURE NOLA

New and “popping” dresses, jumpsuits, rompers: This energetic shop is well-stocked with a broad range of sizes and clothes that are bold, bright, sparkly, feathered and fun. Fashionistas with a thing for lots of color need to get in quick, as the brights go first and fast. From casual to club, there’s a lot here and something for everyone, including a small and very casual collection for men. Peep the kitschy sunglasses, jewelry, bags and other accessories.

3005 MAGAZINE ST., 504.452.3091

TRASHY DIVA LINGERIE

Dreamy, silky, sheer and sultry bits compose the collection of under- and (sometimes) outerwear at Trashy Diva’s lingerie boutique. Satin dressing gowns, feather-trimmed robes and lace-embellished brassieres are all on hand and available in an extensive size range. Lingerie lovers will be awed by

steel-boned corsets, garters and stockings to add fashionable va-va-voom. There’s something oh-sosexy about fine, lacy lingerie peeking from beneath a dress hem or the open neck of an oversized, white button-down shirt.

2050 MAGAZINE ST., 504.265.0973

VAGABOND VINTAGE

Recently opened Vagabond houses a treasure trove of vintage clothing featuring loads of Western wear, boots and denim. Pull together the look: cool checkered, snap-button cowboy shirt, some jeans and a denim jacket in need of embroidery. We’ve got you. After shopping Magazine, head to the French Quarter where Sig Morrison runs Dressed New Orleans (314 Burgundy St., Suite 14, 504.313.4442), a retail shop of her own clothing and accessory designs with a 1970s-era chainstitch-embroidery machine to stitch pretty much anything and everything. Her fried chicken embroidery is extremely popular.

3033 MAGAZINE ST., 504.354.8576

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: VAGABOND VINTAGE, TRASHY DIVA LINGERIE AND POP CULTURE NOLA

 GLAMOUR

WEINSTEIN’S

Founded in the early 1970s, Weinstein’s was the first retailer to bring European clothing to New Orleans. Designer fans flock to this boutique for, among many luxury items, coveted Golden Goose sneakers with that worn-in look. Owners Roz Weinstein and Bonnie Wilson “shop the globe so you don’t have to,” and their look is modern and sharp. Brands such as Jil Sander, Dries Van Noten, Nili Logan and Rick Owens drape the racks and shelves with crisp shirts, sleek slacks, cashmere bandanas and sumptuous leather bags.

4011 MAGAZINE ST., 504.895.6278

BILLY REID

Contemporary Southern clothiers craft staple wardrobe pieces meant to last. Billy Reid’s men’s and women’s designs are clean-lined classics. His signature—effortless, elegant comfort—is seen in pieces like the lighter-weight denim Tupelo Trucker Jacket

or sweeping, flowy linen dresses. Much of the line is meant to be worn year-round or layered as weather dictates. Think crisp blazers, finely fitted jeans and slacks, or fill your closet with neatly cut button-down shirts in deep washes of color to wear tucked or not.

3927 MAGAZINE ST., 504.208.1200

SOSUSU BOUTIQUE

Pushing the envelope stylishly, the collections at Susu Stall’s pretty boutique lean modern and super chic. Top designer gowns, suits, skirts and dresses dominate the racks, though there are plenty of fun pops of color and bold-patterned separates, too. The shoe selection is both lovely and funky-cool, perfectly partnering with any look. Swoon over the color block Mietis Italian leather bags and scads of unique accessories. Stall has hand-selected everything in the shop to reflect her passion for fashion that is classic, forward-thinking and avant-garde.

3427 MAGAZINE ST., 504.309.5026

FROM LEFT) ©WEINSTEIN’S; ©BILLY REID; ©SOSUSU BOUTIQUE

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: WEINSTEIN’S, PIECES FROM BILLY REID’S 2023 FALL COLLECTION AND SOSUSU BOUTIQUE

Hot Dish

1KIMPTON HOTEL FONTENOT

Chef Sam Peery has turned up the heat at both the Peacock Room and King Brasserie. Soak in the colorful vibes of the Peacock Room, while nibbling on the shareable Snack Board larded with pimento cheese, curried bacon cashews, fried oysters and more. King covers all hunger pangs any time of day. Avo toast at breakfast, the King Burger with melty Raclette cheese at lunch and, for dinner, there’s airy Parisienne Gnocchi with blistered tomatoes, peppery arugula and a sweet corn butter sauce. Do not miss dessert; two words: Ramos Vacherin (orange-blossom meringue, lemon sorbet and juniper gelato).

rice grits or the double-stack

LA Wagyu Smash Burger, which features Harrell’s family recipe for homemade freezer pickles (you’ll want extras). ere are two brunch options, though we’re partial to the Bottomless Bubbles Brunch, where there’s a fermented chili oil-spiked Fried Egg Sandwich.

550 BARONNE ST., 504.603.8000

3HIGGINS HOTEL

501 TCHOUPITOULAS ST., 504.571.1818 2

VIRGIN HOTELS NEW ORLEANS

Chef Alex Harrell’s dishes center on very personal and modern nods to Southern classics. For dinner at the Commons Club, start with Breaux Bridge Craw sh Hush Puppies to drag through charred-jalapeno tartar sauce. From there, choose either the Gulf Fish with

e Higgins o ers several venues for food and drink led by executive chef Virgile Brandel and his crack kitchen team connecting food to the cultures of WWII. Serving breakfast, brunch and lunch, Café Normandie leans into classic French with American twists, as in the smoky, gooey Duck Con t Grilled Cheese boosted by spicy orange marmalade and wild mushrooms or Gulf seafood-centric Cajun Paella, packed with sa ron, spices and andouille sausage for heft. From Rosie’s on the Roof, cop stunning evening views, a cold beverage and a bucket of Southern Fried Cornish Hen (and cheesy wa e) with “Freedom Fries.”

1000 MAGAZINE ST., 504.528.1941

(FROM TOP) ©STEVE LEGATO; ©KAT KIMBALL PHOTOGRAPHY; ©HIGGINS HOTEL

Restaurants that put the “haute” in hotel dining LORIN GAUDIN

BREAKFAST IN BREAD

Chef Eric Cook’s “Crawfish Bread and Breakfast” from Saint John (p. 18). As of press time, the following listings were up to date but subject to change; call to verify hours.

DINING

Central Business/ Warehouse District

BREWERY SAINT X

American. In addition to house-brewed beers this brewery/bar/restaurant offers kicked-up apps (smoked fish dip with crab boil potato chips), an easy-to-digest selection of salads and sandwiches (eggplant and burrata). L (F-Su), D (Tu-Su). 734 Loyola Ave., 504.788.0093. Map 3, B4; brewerysaintx.com

COCHON

Louisiana. Many restaurants profess to be “better than your mama’s,” but chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski’s lives up to the claim with haute twists on Cajun standards. The adjacent Cochon Butcher offers sandwiches and housecured meats. L, D (daily). 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.588.2123. Map 3, B7; cochonrestaurant.com

COPPER VINE

American. Along with 30 varietals on tap and an additional 20 by the glass, this easygoing “wine pub” serves up duck fat fries, a wide variety of flatbreads and heartier fare, such as Gulf fish amandine. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su).

1001 Poydras St., 504.208.9535. Map 3, C4; coppervine.com

DEVIL MOON BBQ

Barbecue. Pop into this daytime operation for counter service of barbecue plates, sandwiches and sides. Start with the meaty-fatty pork cracklings, followed by juicy brisket, tender ribs and homemade sausage. L (Tu-Su).

1188 Girod St., 504.788.0093. Map 3, B4; devilmoonbbq.com

DOMENICA

Italian Out-of-the-norm antipasti (roasted cauliflower with whipped feta), handmade pastas, authentic pizzas and Old World classics. Mangia, mangia! L, D (daily). 123 Baronne St., 504.648.6020. Map 3, E3; domenicarestaurant.com

EMERIL’S

Louisiana. Emeril Lagasse’s flagship set the course for the

Lagasse empire. Opened in 1990, the restaurant is now under the helm of his son, E.J., whose top-notch team turns out a variety of ever-changing, multicourse tasting menus. D (Tu-Sa). 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.528.9393. Map 3, C6; emerilsrestaurants.com

KING BRASSERIE

French. Crawfish beignets with crab fat aioli, Gulf fish with smoked lardon, shrimp and collard greens: Louisiana ingredients inform French favorites at this Riverainspired brasserie. B, D (daily), L (F-Su). 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.571.1818. Map 3, D6; kingbrasserieandbar.com

MAYPOP

Eclectic. Chef Michael Gulotta (MoPho) expands on his Asianfusion food theme in a bright, open space with an industrialterrarium vibe. Dig into fried oysters with bourbon-soy ailoi or caramel-glazed sticky pork shoulder. D (nightly). 611 O’Keefe St., 504.518.6345. Map 3, B4; maypoprestaurant.com

MERIL

International. Emeril Lagasse’s casual dining venue is reflective of the chef’s world travels, with a globetrotting menu featuring everything from Greek salad to Korean fried chicken wings to meatballs with whipped ricotta. L (F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 424 Girod St., 504.526.3745. Map 3, C6; emerilsrestaurants.com/meril

MISS RIVER

Louisiana. Chef Alon Shaya’s culinary love letter to the city includes renditions of local classics like the muffuletta and oyster patty, along with dramatic share-with-thetable whole fried chicken and clay pot dirty rice. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 2 Canal St., 504.434.5100. Map 3, E7; missrivernola.com

PÊCHE

Seafood. The focus here is on chef Ryan Prewitt’s simple seafood grilled over hardwood coals...and it couldn’t be better. From the raw bar to the whole fish, you can’t go wrong. L, D (daily). 800 Magazine St.,

504.522.1744. Map 3, C6; pecherestaurant.com

RESTAURANT AUGUST

Contemporary. Fine dining at its finest. The surroundings are elegant, and the food is spectacular, combining European style with Gulf Coast ingredients for dishes, such as gnocchi with truffles and crab. D (nightly). 301 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.299.9777. Map 3, E5; restaurantaugust.com

RUTH’S

HOUSE

CHRIS STEAK

Louisiana. Founded in 1965, this Crescent City classic, famed for its superb sizzling steaks and seafood, now has locations around the world. L, D (daily). 525 Fulton St. (inside Harrah’s Hotel), 504.587.7099. Map 3, D6; ruthschris.com

SEAWORTHY

Steaks. This offshoot of New York’s Grand Banks oyster bar casts a wide net, serving up fresh bivalves from the Gulf, along with East and West coast varieties and other sustainably sourced seafood. L (Sa-Su), D (nightly). 630 Carondelet St., 504.930.3071. Map 3, C5; seaworthynola.com

French Quarter ANTOINE’S

Creole. Established in 1840, Antoine’s is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant and a living treasure. The great-greatgrandchildren of founder Antoine Alciatore run the place as he wanted, which means rich French-Creole food, courtly waiters and an atmosphere of hospitality and tradition. D (MSa); Br (F-Sa), jazz brunch (Su). 713 St Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, F4; antoines.com

ARNAUD’S

Creole. In this magic castle of dining rooms, Arnaud’s continues a tradition begun in 1918. The restaurant was assembled piecemeal over the decades, which is part of its charm. Shrimp Arnaud, oysters Bienville and café brûlot are three of its many famous dishes. D (Tu-Sa); jazz brunch (Su). 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433.

Map 3, F4; arnauds restaurant.com

BRENNAN’S

Creole. The legendary establishment continues more than seven decades of tradition with long-popular classics (turtle soup, eggs Hussarde, bananas Foster) coupled with fresh, contemporary takes on Creole cuisine. B, L, D (daily). 417 Royal St., 504.525.9711.

Map 3, F4; brennans neworleans.com

CAFÉ BEIGNET

Coffee. Along with the city’s signature pastry and all-day breakfast, these cafés serve up small bites of Cajun fare. Open daily. 311 Bourbon St., 504.500.4370. Map 3, F4; 334 Royal St. Map 3, F4; 600 Decatur St. Map 3, F5; 622 Canal St.; Map 3, E5; cafebeignet.com

CAFÉ DU MONDE

Coffee. In operation since 1862, Café Du Monde is a mustdo. On the menu: café au lait and beignets, the unofficial doughnuts of New Orleans. Open daily. 800 Decatur St., 504.525.4544. Map 3, G5; cafedumonde.com

CANE & TABLE

Cuban. This rum-centric restaurant provides a taste of the city’s Caribbean connection. Classic cocktails are given clever contemporary twists, while island flavors inform the “seasonal smart” menu. L (Sa-Su), D (W-Su). 1113 Decatur St., 504.581.1112. Map 3, I5; caneandtablenola.com

COURT OF TWO SISTERS

Creole. No French Quarter visit would be complete without a meal at this romantic restaurant, which features a daily jazz brunch and a nightly a la carte menu. Creole and Cajun cuisine, combined with Southern hospitality and a magical patio setting, makes for a memorable dining experience. Br, D (daily). 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4; courtoftwosisters.com

CRESCENT CITY BREWHOUSE

Louisiana. The French Quarter’s only brewpub, featuring microbrews and sophisticated cuisine. Try the

German sausage and baby back ribs with sugarcane glaze L, D (daily). 527 Decatur St., 504.522.0571. Map 3, G5; crescentcitybrewhouse.com

DORIS METROPOLITAN

Steaks. A stunning steakhouse and butcher shop with superior quality dry-aged meats. The menu impresses with an eclectic collection of specialty cuts and an extensive wine list. D (Tu-Su). 620 Chartres St., 504.267.3500. Map 3, G4; dorismetropolitan. com

FRENCH TOAST

Breakfast. Breakfast is the get at this popular French Quarter spot. There are sweet and savory crepes, perfectly rolled omelets and, of course, a variety of toasts (avocado and egg, ratatouille and ricotta). B, L (daily). 1035 Decatur St., 504.300.5518. Map 3,H5; toastneworleans.com

GALATOIRE’S

Creole. Since 1905, Galatoire’s has been a gravity center of New Orleans. Happily, the food is as good as the party atmosphere, with traditional Creole dishes presented by some of the city’s best waitstaff. L, D (W-Su). 209 Bourbon St., 504.525.2021. Map 3, E4; galatoires.com

GW FINS

Seafood. The local obsession with seafood is taken to global heights here, with fresh fish flown in daily from around the world. Irish salmon and New Zealand lobster rub shoulders with Gulf shrimp and Louisiana duck on the menu, all exquisitely prepared. D (nightly). 808 Bienville St., 504.581.3467. Map 3, F4; gwfins.com

HABANA OUTPOST

Latin. The eco-conscious, Brooklyn-based eatery now has a French Quarter “outpost,” which offers its signature Cuban sandwich, loaded elote and vegan-friendly tacos and bowls. L, D (Th-M). 1040 Esplanade Ave., 504.900.9500. Map 3, I3, habanaoutpost.com

JEWEL OF THE SOUTH

Contemporary. This hidden gem pays homage to a 19thcentury restaurant of the same name, with retro cocktails

(brandy crustas, French 75s) and an ever-changing, seasonal menu. L (Su), D (W-Su). 1026 St. Louis St., 504.265.8816. Map 3, F3; jewelnola.com

JUSTINE

French. Chef Justin Devillier’s Parisenne-inspired brasserie is both classic and contemporary in design, but the menu is fullon French: onion soup gratinée, escargot, steak frites. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 225 Chartres St., 504.218.8533. Map 3, E4; justinenola.com

KILLER POBOYS

Contemporary. This small joint has garnered big buzz with its “internationally inspired, chefcrafted” takes on the standard po’boy. Try the rum-braised pork belly with lime-infused slaw. L, D (W-M). 219 Dauphine St., 504.439.7445. Map 3, F3; 811 Conti St. (in the Erin Rose bar), 504.252.6745. Map 3, F4; killerpoboys.com

PALM & PINE

Eclectic. This progressive spot explores the wider definition of the South, including Latin America. There’s chicken fried Texas quail and benne seed-crusted pompano or dig into closer-to-home flavors of a crab claw cocktail. D (ThM), Br (Su). 308 N. Rampart St., 504.814.6200. Map 3, F3; palmandpinenola.com

MR. B’S BISTRO

Louisiana. Another outstanding Brennan family restaurant, famed for its deceptively casual powerlunch scene. Must-gets include the barbecued shrimp and bread pudding with Irish whiskey sauce. L (W-Sa), D (W-Su); Br (Su). 201 Royal St., 504.523.2078. Map 3, E4; mrbsbistro.com

NAPOLEON HOUSE

Louisiana. Napoleon never slept here, but this historic café and bar, with its peeling walls and worn charm, has its share of French ambiance. The café serves seafood gumbo, salads and warm muffulettas. L, D (daily). 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F4; napoleonhouse.com

RESTAURANT R’EVOLUTION

Louisiana Chefs John Folse and Rick Tramonto are the tour de force behind this elegantyet-relaxed fine dining venue. The rooms are gorgeously appointed and finely detailed while the menu is made up of modern reinterpretations of classic Cajun and Creole cuisine. D (W-Su). 777 Bienville St., 504.553.2277. Map 3, E4; revolutionnola.com

SAINT JOHN

Creole. Creole classics reenvisioned through a contemporary lens. Hot crawfish remoulade, baked deviled crabs, Creole beef daube—everything old is delicious again. Br, D (W-M). 1117 Decatur St., 504.581.8120. Map 3, I5; saintjohnnola.com

THAIHEY NOLA

Thai. Vibrant, modern Thai cuisine. Start with saltylemony fried okra, followed by the red curry frog legs and Louisiana crab fried rice. A full vegan menu is available as well. L, D (W-M). 308 Decatur St., 504.354.8646. Map 3, F5; thaiheynola.com

TUJAGUE’S

Creole. A historic restaurant with a new location, new look and newly reconstructed, five-course table d’hôte menu. Choose from the classic set menu or go á la carte with contemporary dishes. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 429 Decatur St., 504.525.8676. Map 3, G5; tujaguesrestaurant.com

Garden District/ Lower Garden District

THE BOWER

Contemporary. Chef Marcus Woodham works closely with local farmers to keep his menu fresh and seasonal. Cheese and charcuterie boards give way to gorgeous house-made pastas and grilled Gulf fish. D (M-Sa). 1320 Magazine St., 504.582.9738. Map 1, D4; thebowernola.com

COMMANDER’S PALACE

Creole. Chef Meg Bickford carries on the Brennan family tradition of adventurous

food based on Creole principles, served in an elegant atmosphere. L (Th-F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (SaSu). 1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221. Map 1, D4; commanderspalace.com

COQUETTE

French. What do you get when you mix traditional Louisiana cooking with spicy Italian and refined French? Coquette, where the menu changes daily but is always stacked with stellar standouts. D (nightly). 2800 Magazine St., 504.265.0421. Map 1, D4; coquettenola.com

GRIS-GRIS

Louisiana. Chef Eric Cook whips up elevated New Orleans standards (catfish-and-caviar po’ boys, redfish courtbouillon) from his hopping open kitchen. The adjacent Gris-Gris to Go Go offers a great selection of graband-go items. Br, D (W-M). 1800 Magazine St., 504.272.0241. Map 1, D4; grisgrisnola.com

JACK ROSE

Contemporary. This bold space in the Pontchartrain Hotel turns out playful versions of familiar foods. Think pork belly with collard greens or fried chicken Parmesan. Cool cocktails; gorgeous desserts. D (W-Sa); Br (Sa-Su). 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1500. Map 1, D4; jackroserestaurant.com

SAN LORENZO

Italian. The Hotel Saint Vincent’s charming eatery serves up homemade pastas tumbled in light sauces, platters of chilled raw seafood and wood-fired steaks. Great wine list. L (M-F), D (nighty); Br (Sa-Su). 1507 Magazine St., 504.350.2450. Map 1, D4; saintvincentnola. com

TURKEY AND THE WOLF

Eclectic. Sandwiches are the menu mainstay at this casual café: fried baloney with American cheese and chips, collard green melts. Don’t pass on the wedge salad. L (W-M). 739 Jackson Ave., 504.218.7428. Map 1, D4; turkeyandthewolf.com

DINING/SHOPPING

Marigny/Bywater

ALMA

Honduran Chef Melissa Araujo’s menu reflects her Honduran heritage: savory orroz con pollo, baked plantains with refried pintos and housemade crema, Central American sweetbreads to go with Colombian coffee. Br (daily). 800 Louisa St., 504.381.5877. Map 1, E3; eatalmanola.com

BACCHANAL

Eclectic. This combo wine retail shop/bar/live music venue is also a full-blown restaurant. Dig into “international bistro” fare, while local bands perform in the shady backyard. L, D (daily). 600 Poland Ave., 504.948.9111. Map 1, E3; bacchanalwine.com

BYWATER AMERICAN BISTRO

American. The menu at this casual neighborhood spot spotlights local, seasonal ingredients. Blackened octopus with sweet potato-coconut purée, spicy seafood stew; try the Wagyu beef lasagna. D (W-Sa). 2900 Chartres St., 504.605.3827. Map 1, E3; bywateramerican bistro.com

THE COUNTRY CLUB

Louisiana. This long-popular Bywater hangout offers casual fine dining. Dive into big-flavored small plates (crab beignets, truffle mac’ n’ cheese) or full-on entree such as grilled filet mignon. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 634 Louisa St., 504.945.0742. Map 1, E3; thecountryclubneworleans.com

THE ELYSIAN BAR

Contemporary. Tucked inside the Peter and Paul Hotel, this sunny yellow dining room feels all warm and cozy, like a relative’s kitchen. The menu follows suit, with homey fare such as French-rolled omelets. D (nightly); Br (F-M). 2317 Burgundy St., 504.356.6769. Map 1, E3; theelysianbar.com

PALADAR 511

Contemporary. California cooking New Orleans-style means lots of frilly salads, fish left au naturel and pizzas smartly topped with farm eggs, summer squash and the like. D

(nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 511 Marigny St., 504.509.6782. Map 3, J5; paladar511.com

Mid-City

BLUE OAK BBQ

Barbecue. Blue Oak draws raves for its crisp-skinned barbecued chicken, spareribs, killer nachos and fried Brussels sprouts. L, D (daily). 900 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.822.2583. Map 1, D3; blueoakbbq.com

FLOUR MOON BAGELS

Bakery. Hand-shaped, boiled and baked New York-style bagels are the draw here. You’ll also find a broad menu of bagel sandwiches and open-faced tartines. B, L (Th-Tu). 457 N. Dergenois St. Map 1, D3; flourmoonbagels.com

PARKWAY BAKERY

Louisiana. The menu here is long but simple: po’boys and more po’boys. Your choices for stuffings: roast beef, oyster, shrimp and, of course, alligator sausage—and that’ s just the top of the list. L (W-Su). 538 Hagan Ave., 504.482.3047. Map 1, D2; parkwaypoorboys.com

1000 FIGS

Mediterranean. Classic falafel sandwiches and plates are joined by seared squid salads, baba ghanouj, lamb and more. L, D (M-Sa). 63141 Ponce de Leon St., 504.301.0848. Map 1, D2; 1000figs.com

TOUPS’ MEATERY

Cajun. Chef Isaac Toups is known for his masterful charcuterie. Start with the Meatery Board, a selection of house-cured meats and condiments, before moving on to the lamb neck with fenneland-black-eyed pea salad. L (MF), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 845 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.252.4999. Map 1, D3; toupsmeatery.com

UPTOWN

AVO

Italian. Chef Nick Lama does his fourth-generation Sicilian ancestry proud with such standouts as charred octopus with pork butter and pineapple, lasagna with short rib ragu

and grilled Gulf fish piccata. D (Tu-Sa). 5908 Magazine St., 504.509.6550. Map 1, D4; restaurantavo.com

COSTERA

Spanish This casual spot’s Spanish-inspired menu encourages plate-sharing with a wide range of tapas, along with larger entrees such as seafood paella. D (W-M). 4938 Prytania St., 504.302.2332. Map 1, D4; costerarestaurant.com

DAKAR NOLA

African. Senegal-born chef Serigne Mbaye’s tasting menu restaurant combines the flavors of Africa and Louisiana, served in seven courses at a single 7 pm seating. D (Th-Sa). 3814 Magazine St., 504.493-9396. Map 1, D4; dakarnola.com

LA PETITE GROCERY

French. An intimate bistro where local specialties share menu space with French favorites. Try the blue crab beignets or a Gruyére cheeseburger with onion marmalade. L (Th-Sa), D (nightly); Br (Su). 4238 Magazine St., 504.891.3377. Map 1, D4; lapetitegrocery.com

MISTER MAO

Eclectic. The food here is as fun and funky as the quirky interior. The “inauthentic” globally inspired menu swings from escargot Wellington to octopus with mango and cerveza jelly. D (Th-M); Br (Su). 4501 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.345.2056. Map 1, D4; mistermaonola.com

SHAYA

Mediterranean. Contemporary Mediterranean with Southern flair. Fresh-made pita accompanies creamy baba ganoush, smokey labneh and an outstanding hummus selection; try the fried chicken version. L, D (daily). 4213 Magazine St., 504.891.4213. Map 1, D4; shayarestaurant.com

SHOPPING

Art Galleries & Antiques

ANTIEAU GALLERY

Folk artist Chris RobertsAntieau’s textile appliqué works

are found in the American Visionary Art Museum and her French Quarter gallery. Each of her one-of-a-kind “fabric pictures” feature individually crafted, hand-painted frames. 719 Royal St., 504.304.0849. Map 3, G4; antieaugallery.com

CRAIG TRACY GALLERY

The bulk of artist Craig Tracy’s work is devoted to the human form, which the famed bodypainter enhances with eye-tricking imagery he then captures on film. 827 Royal St., 504.592.9886. Map 3, H4; craigtracy.com

M.S. RAU ANTIQUES

This third-generation family business is one of the nation’s oldest dealing in 19th-century antiques. Rau is known for its American, French and English furniture, fine silver, glass, porcelain, clocks and quality jewelry. 622 Royal St., 504.523.5660. Map 3, G4; rauantiques.com

RODRIGUE STUDIO

Devoted to the works of the late great George Rodrigue. Paintings and silkscreens representing Rodrigue’s Cajun roots period and popular Blue Dog series are available. 730 Royal St., 504.581.4244. Map 3, G4; georgerodrigue.com

TERRANCE OSBORNE GALLERY

Over the past decade artist Osborne has garnered a large local and national following with his architectural works and reflections on Crescent City life. 3029 Magazine St., 504.232.7530. Map 1, D4; terranceosborne.com

VINTAGE 329

A mecca for vintage jewelry buffs, this shop is filled with Chanel, Memento Mori and Christian Lacroix. Retro sunglasses, fashion-inspired posters and barware are among the offerings. 329 Royal St., 504.525.2262. Map 3, F4; vintage329.com

WINDSOR FINE ART

This fine art gallery features original works from the old masters and masters of the Belle Époque to the modern masters and the biggest names

SHOPPING

in post-war contemporary art. Internationally renowned contemporary artists and sculpture are also featured. 221 Royal St., 504. 586.0202. Map 3, F4; windsorfineart.com

Clothing, Hats, Shoes & Accessories

ART & EYES

The eyes have it at this chic eyewear boutique, which specializes in hand-picked frames to fit just about any face or budget. Wearable art by designer Starr Hagenbring and jewelry is also featured. 3708 Magazine St., 504.891.4494. Map 1, D4; artandeyesneworleansla.com

BILLY REID

Award-winning designer Reed’s chic boutiques are found all over the country—and now in his birth state as well. Women’s and men’s fashions are featured, along with shoes, bags and accessories. 3927 Magazine St., 504.208.1200. Map 1, D4; billyreid.com

CENTURY GIRL

A bright, glittery women’s clothing and accessories emporium that steps back in time with gorgeous fashions and beautiful designer costume jewelry. 2023 Magazine St., 504.875.3105. Map 1, D4; centurygirlvintage.com

DIRTY COAST

Catering to locals and inthe-know visitors, the shop’s slick designs feature funky graphics with cool Crescent City-inspired slogans. 630 Chartres St., 504.354.1955. Map 3, G4; 1320 Magazine St., 504.766.0752. Map 1, E4; 5415 Magazine St., 504.324.3745. Map 1, D4; dirtycoast.com

GOORIN BROS. HATS

The city’s newest hat shop dates to 1895, when milliner Cassel Goorin first began plying his wares from Pittsburgh street carts. Today Goorin’s hip headwear is found nationwide. 709 Royal St., 504.523.4287. Map 3, G4; goorin.com

SHOE BE DO

Get a step ahead with cuttingedge women’s footwear from

GEORGE RODRIGUE STUDIO

up-and-coming international designers. 324 Chartres St., 504.523.SHOE. Map 3, F4; shoebedousa.com

TASC

Originating in New Orleans, this popular line of active wear is now found nationwide. The secret to its success is its ecoconscious fabric that blends bamboo with organic cotton and merino wool, resulting in soft, durable performance apparel. 3913 Magazine St., 504.304.5030. Map 1, D4; tascperformance.com

TRASHY DIVA

Original and vintageinspired designs with a modern sensibility. The shop offers women’s clothing, shoes, lingerie, jewelry and accessories. 537 Royal St., 504.522.4233. Map 3, G4; 2048 Magazine St., 504.299.8777. Map 1, D4; trashydiva.com

WEINSTEIN’S

Elegant European women’s wear, from casual to formal, is the specialty at this store, which features the latest by leading designers. 4011 Magazine St., 504.895.6278. Map 1, D4; weinsteinsinc.com

Gifts & Collectibles

BUNGALOWS

This shop mixes jewelry (including designs by Pandora, Brighton and other popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with home accents and gift items. 610 Chartres St., 504.522.9222. Map 3, G4; shopbungalows.com

DARK MATTER

Jars of preserved scorpions. Taxidermy mice, mummified cats and possum skulls. Eerie art and moody photography. More than 30 regional oddity artisans are represented in this macabre space. 822 Chartres St. Map 3, H5

DERBY

Mark Derby’s elegant Victorian reproduction tile can be found in showrooms nationwide. But you’ll see it being made here, along with Derby’s decorative

POTTERY & TILE

pottery. 2029 Magazine St., 504.586.9003. Map 1, D4; derbypottery.com

FLEURTY GIRL

These popular boutiques are packed with Crescent City collectibles, NOLA-centric T-shirts and great gift items. 617 Chartres St., 504.304.5529. Map 3, G4; 3117 Magazine St., 504.301.2557. Map 1, D4; fleurtygirl.net

FIFI MAHONEY’S

In search of the perfect pink wig? Longing for drop-dead ruby-red lipstick? It’s all available at Fifi’s, a wonderfully outrageous salon in the heart of the French Quarter. 4934 Royal St., 504.525.4343. Map 3, H4; fifisbywater.square.site

HOME MALONE

A bright, welcoming space filled with Crescent City collectibles (NOLA-themed dish towels, Mardi Gras float flowers), Southern-centric home decor and fun gift items. 4610 Magazine St., 504.766.6148. Map 1, D4; 629 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.324.8352. Map 1, D2; homemalonenola.com

LAURA’S CANDIES

Laura’s dates to 1913, making it the oldest confectionery in the city. Among the treats are Creole pralines and decadent Mississippi Mud. 331 Chartres St., 504.525.3880. Map 3, F4; 305 Royal St., 800.992.9699. Map 3, F4; laurascandies.com

LOUISIANA MUSIC FACTORY

There’s no better place in town to stock up on new or used CDs by local artists. Select posters, books and videos also offered. 421 Frenchmen St., 504.586.1094. Map 3, J5; louisianamusicfactory.com

NOLA BOARDS

Add a dash of Crescent City flavor to your home kitchen with this shop’s handcrafted cutting boards. Wooden cheese boards, magnetic knife holders and other locally made culinary products are also offered. 4228 Magazine St., 504.256.0030. Map 31D4; nolaboards.com

NOLA KIDS

This children’s boutique offers select apparel for boys and girls, from infant to youth, along with toys, books and great gift items. 526 Royal St., 504.533.9853. Map 3, G4; 333 Chartres St., 504.566.1340. Map 3, F4; shopnolakids.com

Malls/Major Retailers

CANAL PLACE

Some of world’s finest retailers in an elegant setting. Stores include Tiffany & Co., Louis Vuitton, Saks Fifth Avenue, Tory Burch, lululemon and Brooks Brothers, as well as local retailers. 333 Canal St., 504.522.9200. Map 3, E5; canalplacestyle.com

RIVERWALK OUTLETS

Located along the Mississippi River at the foot of Poydras Street, the nation’s first urban outlet center offers more than 70 shops, including Nordstrom Rack and Coach. 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.522.1555. Map 3, D7; riverwalknew orleans.com

ATTRACTIONS

Attractions & Landmarks

ARMSTRONG PARK

Named for the jazz great Louis Armstrong, this 34-acre greenspace is home to Congo Square, where jazz is believed to have first taken root. N. Rampart and St. Ann streets. Map 3, H2

AUDUBON AQUARIUM & INSECTARIUM

This award-winning aquarium includes the largest and most diverse collection of sharks and jellyfish in the U.S. Open daily, 10 am-5 pm. 1 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6; audubonnatureinstitute.org

CITY PARK

Abundant live oaks provide a lush canopy for this 1,300-acre outdoor oasis, larger even than New York’s Central Park. 1 Palm Dr., 504.482.4888. Map 1, D2; neworleanscitypark.com

DESTREHAN PLANTATION

A 30-minute drive from New Orleans, Destrehan was built in 1787 by a sugar planter, and is the oldest plantation home in the lower Mississippi Valley. Tours are offered daily: M-Th, 9:30 am-3 pm; F-Su, 9:30 am-4 pm. 13034 River Rd., Destrehan, La., 985.764.9315; destrehanplantation.org

FRENCH MARKET

America’s oldest public market. Along with homegrown specialties, it also features a number of food stalls, retail shops and flea market merchants. 1008 N. Peters St., 504.636.6400. Map 3, H5; frenchmarket.org

HARRAH’S CASINO

The city’s largest casino is located at the foot of Canal Street. The mammoth pleasure palace features 115,000 square feet of gaming space and a number of dining venues. 228 Poydras St., 800.427.7247. Map 3, E6; caesars.com/harrahs-new-orleans

HOUMAS HOUSE HISTORIC ESTATE AND GARDENS

Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival architecture and lush grounds. A museum charting the history of River Road is also featured. Daily tours, 9:30 am-7 pm. Overnight accommodations available. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La, 225.473.9380; houmashouse.com

JACKSON SQUARE

The heart of the French Quarter was originally known as Place d’Armes, and was renamed to honor President Andrew Jackson, whose statue anchors the square. Decatur Street at St. Ann Street. Map 3, G5

PRYTANIA THEATRES AT CANAL PLACE

This state-of-the-art cinema offers nine screens, along with a full bar and private screenings. 333 Canal St., 3rd fl., 504.290.2658. Map 3, E5; prytaniacanalplace.com

ST. BERNARD PARISH

Founded by Canary Islanders in 1778, today St. Bernard

Parish is a thriving, familyoriented community and popular fishing and birding destination. Attractions include Chalmette Battlefield, the Los Isleños Museum & Village and St. Bernard State Park. visitstbernard.com

ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL

Established as a parish in 1720, this magnificent circa-1849 cathedral is the heart and symbol of New Orleans. Jackson Square, 504.525.9585. Map 3, G4; stlouiscathedral.org

STUDIO BE

Brandan Odums’ giant graffiti-style murals explore Black life through powerful portraits of Martin Luther King Jr., Malcolm X, Muhammad Ali and other pivotal players coupled with images of everyday individuals. Open W-Su. 2941 Royal St., 504.330.6231. Map 1, E3; studiobenola.com

VUE ORLEANS

Along with the highest viewpoint in the city, this one-of-akind, 360º observatory provides a crash course in local history and culture through a variety of immersive exhibits and interactive experiences. Open daily. 2 Canal St., 504.285.3600. Map 3, E6; vueorleans.com

WOLDENBERG PARK

This grassy riverfront promenade, which runs from the Audubon Aquarium to Jackson Square, affords great views of the Mississippi. Map 3, F6; audubonnatureinstitue.org

Museums

THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION

This trove of historic treasures offers free changing exhibitions, along with permanent displays tracing the evolution of the French Quarter and the city’s multilayered past. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am-4:30 pm. 520 and 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662. Map 3, G4; hnoc.org

LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUMS

The Louisiana State Museum operates a number of French

Quarter venues: The Cabildo, where the signing of the Louisiana Purchase took place; the Presbytère; the 1850 House; and the Old U.S. Mint, home to the New Orleans Jazz Museum. Open Tu-Su. 504.568.6968. louisianastatemuseum.org

NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM

This living history tribute to the veterans of World War II is a world-class military archive with numerous exhibits, including the 4D film “Beyond All Boundaries.” Open daily, 9 am-5 pm. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944. Map 3, B6; nationalww2museum.org

NEW ORLEANS JAZZ MUSEUM

The world’s largest and most comprehensive collection of jazz-related artifacts offers rotating exhibits and live performances. Open Tu-Su, 9 am-4pm. 400 Esplanade Ave (in the Old U.S. Mint), 504.568.6993. Map 3, I5; nolajazzmuseum.org

NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART

One of the South’s finest museums, featuring an extensive collection from the 15th through 20th centuries and a free sculpture garden. Open Tu, Th-Su (10 am-5 pm), W (noon- 7 pm); sculpture garden open daily (10 am-6 pm). 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100. Map 1, D2; noma.org

NEW ORLEANS PHARMACY MUSEUM

This former apothecary housed the nation’s first licensed pharmacist. See 19th-century “miracle” drugs, phlebotomists’ tools and an 1855 soda fountain. Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-5 pm. 514 Chartres St., 504.565.8027. Map 3, G4; pharmacymuseum.org

OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART

This Smithsonian Institution affiliate offers a fresh, new look at four centuries of the American South. Open daily, 10 am-5 pm. 925 Camp St., 504.539.9650. Map 3, B6; ogdenmuseum.org

SAZERAC HOUSE

Explore the evolution of the city’s cocktail culture through a variety of exhibits, while sipping samples along the way. Free. Open daily, 11 am-4:15 pm. 101 Magazine St., 504.910.0100. Map 3, E5; sazerachouse.com

ENTERTAINMENT

Cruises & Tours

AIRBOAT ADVENTURES

Dive into Louisiana swamplands on guided, high-speed airboat excursions geared to groups of all sizes. Hotel pickup available for an additional fee. 504.689.2005. airboat adventures.com

CITY SIGHTSEEING

This informative doubledecker bus tour allows you to hop off—then back on again— at top attractions throughout the city. 700 Decatur St., 504.207.6200; 800.362.1811. Map 3, G5; citysightseeing neworleans.com

CREOLE QUEEN PADDLEWHEELER

Daily 2.5-hour brunch and Chalmette Battlefield cruises (10 am and 2 pm) and two-hour dinner jazz cruises (7 pm). Departs from Spanish Plaza. 1 Poydras St., 504.529.4567. Map 3, D7; creolequeen.com

GATORS AND GHOSTS

This tour group offers a variety of excursions, from swamp explorations to city, plantation and haunted outings. Hotel pickups and drop-offs are available. 888.481.8188. gatorsand ghosts.com

GRAY LINE NEW ORLEANS

Gray Line provides a wide array of tours—Plantations, Ghost, Garden District, Cemeteries, Swamp & Airboat, Cocktail, French Quarter, City, Steamboat, River Cruises—and all possible combinations. Call for tour info and reservations. Toulouse St. at the Mississippi River, 504.569.1401. Map 3, F5; graylineneworleans.com

HAUNTED HISTORY TOURS

Ghost, vampire, voodoo, occult: This popular tour group offers a variety of excursions through the French Quarter and Garden District. Meet guides 15 minutes prior to tours. For tickets and further information: 504.861.2727. hauntedhistorytours.com

NOLA HISTORIC TOURS

Guide Rob Florence literally wrote the book on New Orleans cemeteries. Both entertaining and educational, his knowledgeable team’s walking tours run the gamut, from the French Quarter and Garden District to the city’s music history. Private and custom experiences are also offered. 504.947.2120. tourneworleans.com

STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ

The last authentic steamboat on the Mississippi River. Daily harbor jazz cruises at 11:30 am. Dinner jazz cruise, nightly at 7 pm. Departs from Toulouse Street and the Mississippi River. 504.569.1401. Map 3, E7; steamboatnatchez.com

NIGHTLIFE

Cocktails

BAR MARILOU

With its swanky sofas and blood-red walls, this Parisianaccented space is perfect for sipping an aperitif while nibbling on sophisticated bar bites. 544 Carondelet St., 504.814.7711. Map 3, C5; barmarilou.com

CAROUSEL BAR

Located in the Hotel Monteleone, this bar is an authentic revolving carousel (worth a peek even for teetotalers) . 214 Royal St., 504.523.3341. Map 3, E4; hotelmonteleone.com

CHANDELIER BAR

The Four Seasons’ aptly named lobby lounge is anchored by a dramatic 15,000-crystal centerpiece and award-winning bartender Hadi Ktiri. 2 Canal St., 504.434.5100. Map 3, E7; fourseasons.com/neworleans

EFFERVESCENCE

This bubbly spot features 90plus bottles of sparkling wine, along with reds, whites and a variety of small plates. 1036 N. Rampart St., 504.509.7644. Map 3, H3; nolabubbles.com

LAFITTE’S BLACKSMITH SHOP

This historic cottage dates to the late 1700s. The legends surrounding Lafitte’s are vast; it’s easy to sit in the dark, watching the carriages pass, and imagine yourself back in a den of pirates and privateers. 941 Bourbon St., 504.593.9761. Map 3, H5; lafittesblacksmithshop.com

PAT O’BRIEN’S

Birthplace of the Hurricane cocktail, this complex features four bars, a full menu and the famous courtyard and fountain. A Crescent City must-do. 718 St. Peter St., 504.525.4823. Map 3, G4; patobriens.com

THE PENTHOUSE CLUB

This upscale gentlemen’s club is one of the largest and most popular along the Bourbon Street strip. State-of-the-art lighting and sound systems are featured, along with private suites. 727 Iberville St., 504.524.4354. Map 3, E4; penthouseclub neworleans.com

SAZERAC BAR

Thirties elegance and classic quaffs inside the beautiful Roosevelt Hotel. The perfect place to sample a Sazerac— the official cocktail of New Orleans. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3; therooseveltneworleans.com

Live Entertainment

APPLE BARREL BAR

This raffish joint is tiny but has a warm and intimate feel, especially when there’s a blues guitarist or a jazz combo performing in a corner of the room. 609 Frenchmen St., 504.949.9399. Map 3, J4

BLUE NILE

This lively Frenchmen Street venue is simultaneously funky and stylish, with oodles of ambiance. Local acts perform regularly, along with national

and international musicians. 532 Frenchmen St. Map, J5; bluenilelive.com

THE FILLMORE

Harrah’s Casino ups the city’s live-music ante with this 22,000-sq.-ft. offshoot of the legendary San Francisco venue., which features top-tier national touring acts . 6 Canal St., 504.881.1555. Map 3, E6; fillmorenola.com

HOUSE OF BLUES

The New Orleans branch of the national chain consistently tops local best-of lists, mixing big-name tours with homegrown favorites. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583. Map 3, F5; hob.com

THE JAZZ PLAYHOUSE

This stylish spot inside the Royal Sonesta recreates the tony jazz clubs of Bourbon Street’s 1950s heyday. A rotating roster of top-tier local talent is featured. 300 Bourbon St., 504.553.2299. Map 3, F4; sonesta.com

PRESERVATION HALL

Home to traditional jazz since 1961, this beloved nightspot still packs ’em in despite not serving liquor. 726 St. Peter St., 504.522.2841. Map 3, G4; preservationhall.com

THE SPOTTED CAT

This tiny club has a casual, laid-back vibe and a large, loyal following. Live music starts at 2 pm and continues way into the night. 623 Frenchmen St. Map 3, J5; spottedcatmusicclub.com

TIPITINA’S

The legendary Tips offers an eclectic, always-entertaining lineup, killer acoustics and multiple bars. 501 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.8477. Map 1, D4; tipitinas.com

TOULOUSE THEATRE

This French Quarter music venue takes its name from a former cinema in the same location. Local acts share billing with visiting performers from around the globe. 615 Toulouse St., 504.571.9771. Map 3, G5; toulousetheatre.com

MAP 1: NEW ORLEANS METRO & JEFFERSON PARISH

MAP 2: SOUTH LOUISIANA

MAP 3: CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT & FRENCH QUARTER

AC AC New Orleans, 221 Carondelet St., 962-0700 D4

AH Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., 900-1180 C5

AJ Andrew Jackson Hotel, 919 Royal St., 561-5881 H4

AS Astor Crowne Plaza, 739 Canal St., 962-0500 E4

BI Baronne Inn & Suites, 346 Baronne St., 524-1140 D4

LK Best Western Landmark Hotel, 920 N. Rampart St., 524-3333 H3

BW Best Western St. Christopher, 114 Magazine St., 648-0444 E5

BH Bienville House, 320 Decatur St., 529-2345 F5

BL Blake Hotel New Orleans, 500 St. Charles Ave., 522-9000 C5

BO Bourbon Orleans, 717 Orleans Ave., 523-2222 G4

CA Cambria New Orleans, 632 Tchoupitoulas St., 524-7770 C6

CY Chateau Hotel, 1001 Chartres St., 524-9636 H4

CO Chateau Orleans, 240 Burgundy St., 524-8412 F3

CN Courtyard by Marriott Convention Center, 300 Julia St., 598-9898 C7

DI Courtyard by Marriott Downtown Iberville, 910 Iberville St., 523-2400 E3

CM Courtyard by Marriott New Orleans, 124 St. Charles Ave., 581-9005 E4

DO Dauphine Orleans, 415 Dauphine St., 586-1800 F3

DT Doubletree Hotel New Orleans, 300 Canal St., 581-1300 E5

DR Drury Inn & Suites, 820 Poydras St., 529-7800 C4

EJ The Eliza Jane, 315 Magazine St., 882-1234 D5

EB Embassy Suites by Hilton Convention Center, 315 Julia St., 525-1993 C7

FP Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter, 541 Bourbon St., 524-7611 F4

FS Four Seasons, 2 Canal St., 434-5100 E6

FR The Frenchmen, 417 Frenchmen St., 688-2900 J5

HI Hampton Inn Downtown, 226 Carondelet St., 529-9990 D4

HQ Hampton Inn French Quarter Market, 501 Elysian Fields Ave., 381-0041 J5

HA Hampton Inn & Suites, 1201 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 566-9990 B8

HR Harrah’s Hotel, 228 Poydras St., 533-6000 D6

HH Higgins Hotel & Conference Center, 1000 Magazine St., 528-1941 B6

HT Hilton Garden Inn CBD, 821 Gravier St., 324-6000 D4

HG Hilton Garden Inn Convention Center, 1001 S. Peters St., 525-0044 B7

HL Hilton New Orleans Riverside, 2 Poydras St., 561-0500 D7

SC Hilton New Orleans St. Charles, 333 St. Charles Ave., 524-8890 D4

FI Historic French Market Inn, 501 Decatur St., 561-5621 F5

HC Holiday Inn-Chateau LeMoyne, 301 Dauphine St., 581-1303 F3

HD Holiday Inn-Downtown Superdome, 330 Loyola Ave., 581-1600 D3

HE Holiday Inn Express-St. Charles, 936 St. Charles Ave., 962-0900 B5

HW Homewood Suites by Hilton New Orleans, 901 Poydras St., 581-5599 C4

HS Homewood Suites French Quarter, 317 N. Rampart St., 930-4494 F3

HM Hotel de la Monnaie, 405 Esplanade Ave., 947-0009 J5

HF Hotel Fontenot, 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 571-1818 D6

LM Hotel Le Marais, 717 Conti St., 525-2300 F4

MA Hotel Mazarin, 730 Bienville St., 581-7300 F4

PP Hotel Peter & Paul, 2317 Burgundy St., 365-5200 K5

PV Hotel Provincial, 1024 Chartres St., 581-4995 H5

SM Hotel St. Marie, 827 Toulouse St., 561-8951 G4

SP Hotel St. Pierre, 911 Burgundy St., 524-4401 H3

HF Hyatt French Quarter Hotel, 800 Iberville St., 586-0800 E4

HP Hyatt Place Convention Center, 881 Convention Center Blvd., 524-1881 C7

HY Hyatt Regency New Orleans, 601 Loyola Ave., 561-1234 C3

IC InterContinental New Orleans, 444 St. Charles Ave., 525-5566 D4

IN International House Hotel, 221 Camp St., 553-9550 D5

JW JW Marriott, 614 Canal St., 525-6500 E4

JU Jung Hotel & Residences, 1500 Canal St., 226-5864 E2

LH Lafayette Hotel, 600 St. Charles Ave., 524-4441 C5

LQ La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown, 301 Camp St., 598-9977 D5

LE Le Meridien, 333 Poydras St., 525-9444 D6

LP Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111 C4

LW Loews New Orleans, 300 Poydras St., 595-3300 D6

MZ Maison de la Luz, 546 Carondelet St., 814.7720 C5

MD Maison Dupuy, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000 G3

MR Marriott New Orleans, 555 Canal St., 581-1000 E4

MW Marriott Warehouse Arts District, 859 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 577-1520 C7

ML Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 523-3341 E4

90 Nine-O-Five Royal Hotel, 905 Royal St., 523-0219 H4

NO NOPSI Hotel, 317 Baronne St., 844-439-1463 D4

OV Olivier House, 828 Toulouse St., 525-8456 F3

OR Omni Riverfront Hotel, 701 Convention Center Blvd., 524-8200 D7

OO Omni Royal Orleans, 621 St. Louis St., 529-5333 F4

OE One11 Hotel, 111 Iberville St., 699.8100 E6

PL Pelham Hotel, 444 Common St., 522-4444 E5

PD Place d’Armes, 625 St. Ann St., 524-4531 H4

PC Prince Conti, 830 Conti St., 529-4172 F4

QC Q&C Hotel, 344 Camp St., 587-9700 D5

RA Renaissance Arts Hotel, 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2330 C6

PM Renaissance Père Marquette, 817 Common St., 525-1111 D4

RE Residence Inn by Marriott Downtown, 345 St. Joseph St., 522-1300 B6

RZ Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans, 921 Canal St., 524-1331 E4

RO Roosevelt New Orleans-Waldorf Astoria, 130 Roosevelt Way, 648-1200 E3

RC Royal Crescent, 535 Gravier St., 527-0006 D5

RF Royal Frenchmen, 700 Frenchmen St., 619-9660 J4

RS Royal Sonesta, 300 Bourbon St., 586-0300 F4

RH Royal St. Charles Hotel, 135 St. Charles Ave., 587-3700 D4

SJ St. James Hotel, 330 Magazine St., 304-4000 D5

ST Sheraton, 500 Canal St., 525-2500 E5

SH Spring Hill Suites by Marriott, 301 St. Joseph St., 522-3100 C7

VH Virgin Hotels New Orleans, 550 Baronne St., 833-791-7700 C4

WQ ‘W’ French Quarter, 316 Chartres St., 581-1200 F4

WO Westin Canal Place, 100 Iberville St., 566-7006 E5

WH The Whitney Hotel, 610 Poydras St., 581-4222 D5

WC Windsor Court, 300 Gravier St., 523-6000 D6

WG Wyndham Garden Baronne Plaza, 201 Baronne St., 522-0083 D4

WQ Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter, 124 Royal St., 529-7211 E4

PARTING SHOT

In-Flight Entertainment

A Postman Butterfly, one of numerous varieties you’ll find flutterring around the Butterfly Garden at the recently redesigned Audubon Aquarium and Insectarium (p. 25).