Oahu Where GuestBook 2016-2017 by Morris Media Network

where traveler.com

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PHOTO CREDIT GOTHAM BOOK 5.5/9PT

WELCOME TO Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;AHU

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O‘AHU GUESTBOOK is part of a series of four books that Where® Hawai‘i has produced for all the major Hawaiian Islands in 2016-2017, including Maui, Kaua‘i and Hawai‘i Island. Each island will be represented with its own unique iconic landmark image as the cover art. These books are designed to where traveler.com

entertain and educate visitors about each respective island, and to tell the stories of Hawai‘i in an engaging E~MAUGB_160700_Cover.indd 1

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and artistic manner. We hope you enjoy the book as much as we took pleasure in writing about Hawai‘i’s treasures, places and people.

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O‘AHU CONTENTS

ISLAND ESSENCE 36 PHOTO ESSAY LIFE AQUATIC A talented photographer turns his lens toward the ocean. BY MIKE COOTS

46 ONCE UPON A TWAIN IN HIS FOOTSTEPS Back in 1866, American author Mark Twain spent four months exploring the Hawaiian islands. BY SIMPLICIO PARAGAS

ON THE COVER Commonly known as Chinaman’s Hat among island residents, Mokoli‘i Island is a basalt islet at the northern end of Kāne‘ohe Bay. ©RIDDHISH CHAKRABORTY/GETTY IMAGES

54 ARCHITECTURAL WONDERS HONOLULU EXPOSED An architect-led walking tour of the city reveals some of the most interesting historic buildings. BY GINA BAILEY

W H E R E G U ESTBO O K

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The Original Waterfall Collection

An incomparable collection of Hawaiian and Island lifestyle jewelry OAHU Ala Moana Center • Outrigger Waikiki on Kalakaua Avenue • Waikiki Beach Walk Hilton Hawaiian Village • Polynesian Cultural Center MAUI • KAUAI • BIG ISLAND OF HAWAII • NCL PRIDE OF AMERICA NaHoku.com • 1-800-260-3912 Best of HONOLULU MAGAZINE 2016

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HAWAII’S BEST

People’s Choice Awards The Star Advertiser 2016

HAWAII MAGAZINE Readers’ Choice Award 2016

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O‘AHU CONTENTS

ISLAND ESSENTIALS 6 DATEBOOK

80 PARTING SHOT

NEIGHBORHOOD WATCH

E KIPA HOU MAI

A calendar of events that includes the seventh annual Hawai‘i Food & Wine Festival and Aloha Festivals.

No two parts of O‘ahu are alike. LEEWARD: This western side of the island is 30 miles from Waikīkī. DOWNTOWN: The commercial and financial hub of the islands. KAIMUKI: Ethnic restaurants and trendy shops define the area. EAST O‘AHU: Highlights include Hanauma Bay and Makapu‘u Trail. NORTH SHORE: Large winter swells attract professional surfers. WAIKĪKĪ: Lots to see and do in this world famous playground. CENTRAL O‘AHU: Enter the world’s largest maze at Dole Plantation. WINDWARD O‘AHU: All are welcome to visit the Byodo-In Temple.

An aerial view of Waikīkī Beach in the early morning hours.

16 NAVIGATE A MAP OF O‘AHU An overview of the island.

18 ISLAND SONG POETIC VERSE “Waikīkī” by Andy Cummings.

20 FIRSTLOOK O‘AHU’S SIGNATURE ATTRACTIONS Plan your itinerary to include stops at Pearl Harbor, Pali Lookout, the North Shore and Hanauma Bay.

62 ISLAND VIEWS

HOT DATES

SPECIAL SECTION DINING IN PARADISE From food trucks and gastropubs to fine dining and casual, here’s a quick guide to dining on the island.

W H E R E G U ESTBO O K

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The Original Wave Collection

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HAWAII’S BEST

People’s Choice Awards The Star Advertiser 2016

HAWAII MAGAZINE Readers’ Choice Award 2016

10/27/16 9/29/16 12:32:23 1:38:02 PM PM 9/27/16 2:24 PM

DATEBOOK FRIENDLY GATHERING

Kahanamoku, Duke’s OceanFest has become

The atmosphere is palpable. As taiko thump

a nine-day open-ocean competition, which

and ‘ukulele echo throughout the Hawai‘i

includes men’s, women’s and keiki surf

Convention Center, the high-energy mood

contests; 1-mile swim; stand-up surf; surf

among attendees is always one of friend-

polo; canoe regatta; Hawai‘i Paddleboard

ship. And that’s the point. As it has done

Championship; and the Hawaiian Airlines

for the past 22 years, the Honolulu Festival

Legends Surf Classic. Athletes also compete

will promote world unity by shedding

in beach volleyball and soccer. Events take

light on Asia, Pacific and Hawaiian cultures.

place throughout Waikīkī.

Enjoy exhibits, demonstrations and a Grand

August 2017. dukesoceanfest.com

Parade with a procession of elaborate floats through Waikīkī.

CULTURAL PRIDE

March 10-12, 2017. honolulufestival.com

Now in its 70th year, Aloha Festivals continues to uphold its mission “to foster the

SPAM JAM

Aloha spirit through the perpetuation of

Can? No can? In Hawai‘i, it’s definitely can —

the Hawaiian culture and the celebration

especially if it comes in a blue tin and spells

of the diverse customs and traditions of

out S-P-A-M in bright yellow letters. Now

Hawai‘i.” One of the main highlights is the

in its 15th year, the Waikīkī SPAM Jam has

largest block party of the year, the Waikīkī

become one of Waikīkī’s largest events, clos-

Ho‘olaule‘a, which shuts down 12 blocks of

ing down Kalākaua Avenue and turning the

Kalākaua Ave. The festivities close with the

main thoroughfare into a street party lined

Aloha Festivals Floral Parade, the third largest

with food booths, assorted vendors and

floral parade in the nation.

live entertainment on two stages. Expect

Early September 2017. alohafestivals.com

topped with pineapples, creamy popsicles,

SCREEN SHOT

barbecue sliders, siu mai, fried rice, loco

As the vanguard forum of international cine-

moco, yakisoba noodles, wontons, Greek

matic achievement in the Asia-Pacific region,

omelet and Sicilian basil pizza.

Hawai‘i International Film Festival (HIFF)

April 29, 2017. spamjamhawaii.com

endeavors to recognize new and emerging talent, promote career development and

WINE AND DINE

ANNUAL EVENT PROMOTES HAWAI‘I INGREDIENTS

LEI DAY

original collaborations through innovative

This colorful and fragrant celebration has

education programs, and facilitate dynamic

always been about the lei: the making and

cultural exchange through the cinema arts.

wearing of them, the history, judging of the

Early November 2017. hiff.org

strands in competition, and just appreciating its beauty and glamour. Beginning with a concert by the Royal Hawaiian Band at 9 a.m. in Kapiolani Park and Bandstand, the

Now in its seventh year, the Hawai‘i Food & Wine Festival will once again attract a national and international contingency of chefs and vintners who will participate in various signature events and chef-driven dinners on Maui, Hawai‘i Island, O‘ahu and potentially Kaua‘i in 2017. More than just about eating great meals and drinking fine wines, the festival exposes Hawai‘i’s efforts to be sustainable and food secure. Farmers, ranchers and anglers interact with chefs and the public to embrace the idea of “Grown Here, Not Flown Here.”

festivities include the presentation of the

October 20-November 11. hawaiifoodandwinefestival.com

Named after Hawai‘i’s beloved son Duke

2017 Lei Queen and Court, the Lei Contest Exhibit, and plenty of musical entertainment, art exhibits and locally inspired food. May 1, 2017. honolulu.gov

ALL HAIL TO THE DUKE

(FROM LEFT) ©LINNY MORRIS; ©TOR JOHNSON/HAWAII TOURISM AUTHORITY

such SPAM-infused dishes as mini pancakes

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Ultimate Wood Watches Made with Hawaii Koa

Hand-crafted with carved Koa wood from the Big Island. Over 40 designs including automatic self-winding styles. Precision 21-jewel movement. Sapphire crystal

www.MartinandMacArthur.com Ala Moana Center Hilton Hawaiian Village Outrigger Reef Ward Center Sheraton Waikiki Moana Surfrider Whalers Village The Shops at Wailea Ritz Carlton Kapalua Westin Maui Grand Hyatt Kauai Kukui’ula Poipu Kings’ Shops Waikoloa

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CONTRIBUTORS Gina Bailey

Architectural Wonders, page 54

A Honolulu-based writer, Gina Bailey enjoys studying the various styles of architecture, from Neo-Gothic and contemporary to Italianate and Victorian. She has traveled extensively throughout the globe, always curious about a city’s architectural structures and its external “bones.” While on an architect-led walking tour of Honolulu, she discovers the many hidden gems that are rich in history and some in controversy. When not “getting lost” in a host country, Gina enjoys tennis, reading, writing and planning her next overseas adventure.

Mike Coots

Life Aquatic, page 36

Since losing a leg after a shark attack, Kaua‘i native Mike Coots has become a professional photographer, capturing stunning images of the ocean and those who play in the vast blue waters. His photographs have graced the pages of such noted publications as The Wall Street Journal, The New York Times, Forbes, SURFER and Bon Appétit. He has been featured on CNN, CBS News, Discovery, MSN, and National Geographic. He is also the recipient of the GoPro Hero Award. In his spare time, he is an advocate for marine conservation and legislation, and an avid shark activist.

casing a dish in its best possible light. Known for his unique perspective on food and food culture, he is a frequent contributor to a variety of publications in Hawai‘i. Born and raised in Detroit, Steve was always interested in working behind the lens — beginning his career documenting people and their pets. He has been living in Honolulu for 12 years.

Olivier Koning

Architectural Wonders, page 54 Freelance photographer Olivier Koning is a longtime Hawai‘i resident who specializes in editorial and architectural photography. His work has been featured in publications both locally and abroad. A native of France, Olivier has called Hawai‘i his home for more than 25 years. His work has taken him throughout the South Pacific, Southeast Asia and Europe, as well as extensive work across the Hawaiian Islands.

Gina Bailey

Mike Coots

Steve Czerniak

Olivier Koning

Steve Czerniak

Shrimply Amazing, page D22

Steve Czerniak is a Honolulubased photographer who specializes in photographing food, show-

W H E R E G UESTBO O K

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Genuine Hawaiian Koa Wood Watch Collection from $395

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HAWAII’S BEST

People’s Choice Awards The Star Advertiser 2016

HAWAII MAGAZINE Readers’ Choice Award 2016

10/27/16 9/29/16 12:33:07 1:40:21 PM PM 9/27/16 2:22 PM

O‘AHU ADVERTISING & CIRCULATION HAWAI‘I DIRECTOR Buddy Moore 808.955.2378 ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Glenn Kobayashi ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Bob Kowal, Donna Kowalczyk, Chris Snipes INDEPENDENT SALES CONTRACTORS Debbie De Mello, Wanda Garcia-Fetherston ADVERTISING COORDINATOR

Alice Gustave

CIRCULATION AND MARKETING DIRECTOR Sidney Louie NATIONAL CIRCULATION COORDINATOR Noreen Altieri

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP I EXECUTIVE

Donna W. Kessler Reab Berry CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER Dennis Kelly VICE PRESIDENT OF OPERATIONS Angela E. Allen VICE PRESIDENT, INTERNAL BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Karen Rodriguez REGIONAL VICE PRESIDENT OF SALES Courtney Fuhrmann GENERAL MANAGER, WHERE MAPS Christopher Huber DIRECTOR OF CIRCULATION Scott Ferguson NATIONAL MARKETING MANAGER Melissa Blanco PRESIDENT

CHIEF STRATEGY OFFICER

MVP I NATIONAL SALES VICE PRESIDENT, NATIONAL SALES Rick Mollineaux, 202.463.4550 DIRECTOR OF PARTNERSHIPS & NATIONAL DIGITAL SALES

Bridget Duffie

NATIONAL SALES COORDINATOR David Gately E-MAILS FOR ALL OF THE ABOVE : FIRSTNAME.LASTNAME@MORRIS.COM

MVP O‘AHU, SALES OFFICE 1833 Kalākaua Ave., Suite 810 Honolulu, HI 96815 Phone: 808.955.2378; Fax: 808.955.2379 www.wheretraveler.com

MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS CHAIRMAN

William S. Morris III William S. Morris IV

PRESIDENT & CEO

OAHU Ala Moana I Kahala Mall I Sheraton Waikiki I Downtown Honolulu I Ka Makana Ali’i KAUAI Kukui’ula HAWAII Queen’s Marketplace I Mauna Lani

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Where GuestBook® is produced by Morris Visitor Publications (MVP), a division of Morris Communications, Co., LLC. 725 Broad St., Augusta, GA 30901, morrismedianetwork.com. Where® magazine and the where® logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications. MVP publishes Where magazine, Where® QuickGuide, IN New York, and IN London magazines, and a host of other maps, guides, and directories for business and leisure travelers, and is the publisher for the Hospitality Industry Association. O‘ahu Where Guestbook is pleased to be a member of the list of associations below. MVP IS A PROUD SPONSOR OF LES CLEFS D’OR USA

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O‘AHU EDITORIAL

Hawaii’s Original Parasailing Company est. 1977

Same boat as seen in Jurassic Park 3 and Meet The Deedles

SENIOR EDITOR Simplicio Paragas EDITOR Kristen Nemoto ART DIRECTORS Chris Cardelli, Veronica Montesdeoca CONTRIBUTING WRITER Gina Bailey CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Mike Coots, Steve Czerniak, Olivier Koning JAPANESE TRANSLATION Misayo Fujita Hobbs, CONNECT JAPAN, LTD. MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP I CREATIVE CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER Haines Wilkerson SENIOR REGIONAL EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

Margaret Martin

DESIGN DIRECTOR Jane Frey DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY Isaac Arjonilla CREATIVE COORDINATOR Beverly Mandelblatt

MVP I PRODUCTION PUBLICATION SERVICES DIRECTOR Kris Miller PUBLICATION SERVICES MANAGER Cher Wheeler PHOTO SCANNING & RETOUCH OR DIGITAL IMAGING MANAGER Jerry Hartman DIGITAL IMAGING SPECIALIST Erik Lewis

MVP I MANUFACTURING & TECHNOLOGY DIRECTOR OF MANUFACTURING Donald Horton TECHNICAL OPERATIONS MANAGER Tony Thorne-Booth E-MAIL FOR ALL OF THE ABOVE: FIRSTNAME.LASTNAME@MORRIS.COM

MVP O‘AHU, EDITORIAL OFFICE 1833 Kalakaua Ave., Suite 810 Honolulu, HI 96815 Phone: 808.955,2378; Fax: 808.955.2379 wheretraveler.com Where GuestBook® publishes editions for the following U.S. cities and regions: Arizona, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charlotte, Chicago, Colorado, Dallas, Florida Gold Coast (Fort Lauderdale & Palm Beach), Fort Worth, Hawai‘i Island (the Big Island), Houston, Jacksonville/St. Augustine/Amelia Island, Kansas City, Kaua‘i, Los Angeles, Maui, Miami, Nashville, New Orleans, New York, Northern Arizona, O‘ahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Raleigh/Durham/Chapel Hill, Reno/Lake Tahoe, San Antonio, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle/The Eastside/Tacoma, Southwest Florida (Naples), Tampa Bay, Tucson, Washington D.C.

• Parasail 600 ft. Line • Parasail 800 ft. Line

• Parasail 1,000 ft. Line • Tandem Side by Side

Free Pick-up & Drop-off at All Waikiki Hotels Call or visit our website for reservations

©2017 by Morris Visitor Publications. All rights reserved. This publication may not be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, in whole or in part, without the express prior written permission of the publisher. The publisher assumes no responsibility to any party for the content of any advertisement in this publication, including any errors and omissions therein. By placing an order for an advertisement, the advertiser agrees to indemnify the publisher against any claims relating to the advertisement. Printed in the United States of America.

W H E R E G U ESTBO O K

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NAVIGATE

The Hawaiian Islands (left to right) Ni‘ihau

The “forbidden” island is known for exquisite shell jewelry and exclusivity—Native Hawaiians only.

Kaua‘i

Magnificent sea cliffs, canyons and foliage distinguish the Garden Isle.

O‘ahu

It’s known for Waikīkī beaches, world-class shopping, Pearl Harbor and the North Shore.

Moloka‘i You’ll find Old Hawai‘i charm, mule rides and famous Moloka‘i bread. Lāna‘i

Hulopo‘e Bay has a posh resort, and Koele has pine-studded uplands.

Maui

The Valley Isle has top-notch whale-watching, art, Mt. Haleakalā and the winding Hāna Highway.

Kaho‘olawe Once a Navy firing range, this island is now dedicated to the preservation of Hawaiian culture. Hawai‘i Island This ever-expanding island has an active volcano and wonderfully diverse scenery. 14

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THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS

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Collection available exclusively at Na Hoku

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HAWAII’S BEST

People’s Choice Awards The Star Advertiser 2016

HAWAII MAGAZINE Readers’ Choice Award 2016

10/27/16 9/29/16 12:30:26 1:45:32 PM PM 9/27/16 2:20 PM

NAVIGATE

The third-largest island in the Hawaiian chain, O‘ahu has 112 miles of coastline but is only 30 miles at its widest point and 60 miles long. It is by far the most populous of the Hawaiian Islands, home to capital city Honolulu. Compass directions can be confusing on the Islands, so it’s helpful to use local terms: makai (toward the sea), mauka (toward the mountains), Diamond Head (toward Diamond Head) and Ewa (away from Diamond Head). 16

©EUREKA CARTOGRAPHY, BERKELEY, CA; (WATERCOLOR BACKGROUND AND EDGE PATTERN) ©MIKE REAGAN

O‘AHU

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Riviera Collection Na Hoku is Hawaii’s only authorized retailer of Kabana jewelry.

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HAWAII’S BEST

People’s Choice Awards The Star Advertiser 2016

HAWAII MAGAZINE Readers’ Choice Award 2016

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ISLAND SONG

There’s a feeling deep in my heart Stabbing at me just like a dart It’s a feeling heavenly I see memories out of the past Memories that always will last Of the days that used to be Waikīkī At night when the shadows are falling I hear the rolling surf calling Calling and calling to me Waikīkī ʻTis for you that my heart is yearning My thoughts are always returning Out there to you across the sea Chorus: Your tropic nights and your wonderful charms Are ever in my memory And I recall when I held in my arms An angel sweet and heavenly Waikīkī My whole life is empty without you I miss that magic about you Magic beside the sea Magic of Waikīkī

©NAGELESTOCK.COM / ALAMY

— “Waikīkī” written by Andy Cummings

W H E R E G U ESTBO O K

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Take the walk O n e - o f - a - k i n d boutique shops. Weekly activities and live performances. Award-winning restaurants.

Open 365 Days, 10amâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;10pm Located on Lewers St. between Kalakaua Ave. & Kalia Road +1 808.931.3591 WAI KI KI B E ACHWALK .CO m

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FIRST LOOK O‘ahu features myriad sights and attractions, from the crashing waves of the island’s fabled North Shore to Polynesian artifacts from a historic museum.

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“Most of what Hawai‘i has to offer is no secret. Pipeline is probably the most famous wave in the world.” KELLY SLATER, professional surfer and North Shore’s Pipeline Master’s champion.

North Shore

Located on O‘ahu’s north-facing coastal area, North Shore is the quintessential place where visitors and locals alike come to enjoy three staple island treats: sun, sand and surf. It’s an hour away from Waikīkī but well worth the day’s-long trip to roll down the car windows, soak in the sea salt air, and get a feel for what an island “country” lifestyle is all about. Throughout the year, you can find folks checking out North Shore’s Haleiwa town’s surf shops, shaved-ice stands, cafés, natural food stores, and - of course - the notorious waves during the winter season.

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“For me, the magic of Hawai‘i comes from the stillness, the sea, the stars. And the things I like to do best here cannot be found in a brochure ... to exist in the moment and nowhere else” JOANNE HARRIS in her 2008 story for The Independent.

Hanauma Bay

Cradled between two volcanic craters 10 miles east of Waikīkī, Hanauma is a circular-shaped marine life conservation area that offers a peerless window into the colorful world of corals and tropical fish. A shallow fringing reef protects this south shore beach in most areas, creating calm inner waters ideal for snorkeling and swimming. 7455 Kalanianaole Hwy., www.hanaumabaystatepark.com 22

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FIRST LOOK

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‘Iolani Palace

Once the royal residence of King Kamehameha III, King David Kalākaua and Queen Lili‘uokalani, ‘Iolani Palace is now a National Historic Landmark and welcomes visitors to see and experience the United States’ only official state residence of royalty. Guests to the palace were impressed by its American Florentine architecture style and enjoyed up-to-date amenities such as indoor flush toilets, electricity, and telephones. Walk in the footsteps of royalty on a docent-led or self-guided tour, and understand a significant and revered time in Hawaiian history. 364 South King St., www.iolanipalace.org

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Bishop Museum

Built in memory of the late Princess Bernice Pauahi Bishop, Bishop Museum proudly stands in the historic Kalihi district of Honolulu, housing the world’s largest collection of Polynesian artifacts. Various educational exhibits take place around the campus including new features within Hawaiian Hall, Pacific Hall, and daily shows at the J. Watumull Planetarium. A1525 Bernice St., www.bishopmuseum.org

Honolulu Zoo

Wakīkī Aquarium

When the facility opened in 1904, The Honolulu Aquarium, as it was called then, was considered stateof-the-art, with 35 exhibits and 400 marine organisms. Admission was 10 cents and some visitors even arrived on horseback. Today, the facility houses more than 3,500 organisms, 285 volunteers, and welcomes over 330,000 people and 30,000 schoolchildren each year. 2777 Kalākaua Ave., www.waquarium.org 24

Located across the street from Queen’s Surf Beach in Waikīkī, the Honolulu Zoo is home to 1,230 animals, including monkeys, endemic birds, giraffes, zebras, tigers, elephants and orangutans. In the early 1900s, the park’s administrator began collecting wild animals to put them on display. As the number of animals grew, the city eventually took over the land and the Honolulu Zoo was born. 151 Kapahulu Ave., www.honoluluzoo.org

(CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP) ©DESIGN PICS INC/ALAMY; ©TOR JOHNSON/HAWAII TOURISM AUTHORITY; ©PHOTO RESOURCE HAWAII/ALAMY

FIRST LOOK

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MORE THAN 340 STORES AND RESTAURANTS INCLUDING ABERCROMBIE & FITCH GYMBOREE

•

ANN TAYLOR

J.CREW-ON-THE-ISLAND

NORDSTROM

•

SUNGLASS HUT

•

APPLE STORE

LE LOTUS BLEU

TEAVANA

•

BEBE

•

BLOOMINGDALE’S

LOUIS VUITTON

VERA BRADLEY

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MACY’S

•

BRIGHTON COLLECTIBLES

MORTON’S THE STEAKHOUSE

VICTORIA’S SECRET

•

WILLIAMS-SONOMA

•

GUESS

NEIMAN MARCUS

& MANY MORE

Mon-Sat 9:30am to 9pm Sun 10am to 7pm • AlaMoanaCenter.com • 808.955.9517 • FREE WI-FI Your GGP Shopping Destination

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Honolulu Museum of Art

Featuring the largest collection of fine art in the Pacific, from ancient Chinese pottery to Impressionist paintings to visiting exhibitions of cutting-edge contemporary art. And while the Asian collections—Japanese woodblock prints, Buddhist statues and much more—could inspire hours of contemplation on their own, the heart of HMA lies in its surprising array of American and European art. Works by Monet, Matisse, Bontecou and Frankenthaler are part of the Museum’s permanent collection. 900 S. Beretainia St., honolulumuseum.org

Pearl Harbor

Everyday, 4,000 visitors from all across the world come to pay their respects to those who’ve lost their lives on the Sunday morning of December 7, 1941. The USS Arizona Memorial, which marks the final resting place of 1,102 of the 1,177 sailors and marines who were killed, is a dedicated shrine in the form of a bridge floating above the sunken USS Arizona battleship. Its structure, which has two peaks at each end, represents the height of American power before the war, the depression after the attack, and the final rise of American pride after the war. Visits to the site are free and include a boat ride to and from the memorial, and a 23-minute documentary in the theater. Ticket passes for the boat ride can be reserved online or given out on a first-come, first-serve basis at the Pearl Harbor Visitor Center. 1 Arizona Memorial Pl., nps.gov/valr 26

(THIS PAGE, FROM TOP) COURTESY HONOLULU MUSEUM OF ART; ©DOUGLAS PEEBLES PHOTOGRAPHY/ALAMY; (OPPOSITE PAGE) ©IMAGEBROKER/ALAMY

FIRST LOOK

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Ka‘ena Point

The mo‘olelo (oral history) of Hawaiian culture says that Ka‘ena Point was once the last home for passed loved ones before their souls departed from the earth. It’s also here where Laysan albatrosses spend their nesting season while native plants, such as the ohai bush, blossom abundantly. Discover tide pools, small stone arches and picturesque views of the Makua coastline. A fisherman’s or hiker’s paradise, be wary of the water’s edge as dangerous currents can become instantly large and unpredictable. hawaiistateparks.org

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“This is an iconic spot of history … Where the energy is so thick, sometimes I don’t bring my tour group down here” KUMU LOPAKA KAPANUI, cultural practitioner and storyteller of Mysteries of Hawai‘i, regarding his tour stops along old Pali road.

Pali Lookout

This is where a gruesome battle took place between King Kamehameha I and a rival chief—a fight that helped determine the fate of Hawai‘i. When thousands of warriors were pushed off the escarpment into the valley below, Kamehameha’s fate was sealed as the one who would unite the islands. The view, the history and the strong gusts of wind—a signature of the Nu‘uanu Pali—let you know without doubt that this is a place of power. 28

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FIRST LOOK

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FIRST LOOK

Diamond Head

Over 300,000 years ago, a volcanic explosion occurred along O‘ahu’s southeast shore, creating a saucer-shaped crater that sprawled across more than 475 acres. Thousands of years later, when British sailors came across the remains of calcite crystals, thought of at the time to be diamonds, they named it Diamond Head to describe the mountainous region. Today, O‘ahu’s most recognized landmark—known as Lē‘ahi among Native Hawaiians—is known for its historic hiking trail, breathtaking coastal views and military history. 32

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“That’s Diamond Head, the beginning of home.” PETER GILMAN, author and journalist, in his 1960 book Diamond Head.

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C a p t u re t h e e s s e n c e o f t h e H aw a i i a n w ave s , ke e p i n g t h e i r b e a u t y, p o w e r a n d g r a c e e ve r l a s t i n g .

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LIFE AQUATIC The story of Hawai‘i is the story of water. Our history and culture are intimately linked to the sea. We ride its waves and delve into its depths, we fish its waters and cultivate its plants. It is life itself. Hawai‘i photographer Michael Coots explores this captivating world.

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Photographer Mike Coots’ love affair with the ocean has remained constant—even after losing a leg at the age of 18 to a shark. Undeterred and fitted with a specially designed prosthetic leg, the avid surfer returned to the waves to enjoy—and photograph—his favorite sport and environment. His respect for the ocean and its inhabitants extends even to sharks. As an activist, Coots campaigns to end shark finning and culling and to make people aware of the dangers of polluting the ocean. One of his most rewarding causes is helping children who have lost limbs, inspiring them to pursue their dreams—as he has done.

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ONCE UPON A TWAIN “We came in sight of two of this group of islands, Oahu and Molokai (pronounced O-waw-hoo and Molloki), on the morning of the 18th, and soon exchanged the dark blue waters of the deep sea for the brilliant light blue of "sounding." –Mark Twain BY SIMPLICIO PARAGAS

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Many authors have written about Hawai‘i as they have transited through the islands on their way to other far-flung destinations. Robert Louis Stevenson, Jack London, Herman Melville and, of course, James Michener have all penned novels using the Islands’ beauty as their muse. But none have captured their stay here quite like Mark Twain … before he became Mark Twain. Back in 1866, California-based journalist Samuel Langhorne Clemens spent four months and a day exploring the Sandwich Islands, as he persisted in calling this archipelago, several of them on O‘ahu. He arrived by way of the steamer Ajax, crossing the Pacific in turbulent waters for 10 days. WHERE GUEST B OOK

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“No alien land in all the world has any deep strong charm for me but that one, no other land could so longingly and

(PREVIOUS SPREAD, FROM LEFT) ©CAMERON BROOKS; ©PICTORIAL PRESS LTD/ALAMY; (THIS PAGE) ©AURORA PHOTOS/ALAMY; (OPPOSITE PAGE) ©PAUL NICKLEN

so beseechingly haunt me, sleeping and waking, through half a lifetime, as that one has done. Other things leave me, but it abides; other things change, but it remains the same.”

(Previous spread) Mark Twain explored the Ko‘olau summits. (This page) Mokoli‘i is also known as Chinaman’s Hat. (Opposite page) An abstract view of barreling waves on the North Shore.

“Oahu loomed high, rugged, useless, barren, black and dreary, out of the sea … As we came in sight we fired a gun, and a good part of Honolulu turned out to welcome the steamer,” Clemens wrote in one of his 25 dispatches for the Sacramento Union. This was the denouement of Clemens’ journalism career and the beginning of his metamorphosis into legendary American author Mark Twain. It was 150 years ago that Twain’s sojourn in the islands were documented and dispatched for public consumption. Today, his tales of Hawai‘i remain fresh, amusing and some of the best travel writing about the Hawaiian Islands. His personal accounts and encounters with island residents reveal a man who was open to discovery and wanting, as he wrote to his mother, “to ransack the islands, the great cataracts & the volcanoes completely…” While on O‘ahu, he set out on horseback to explore the ʻāina (land), seeing everything, meeting everyone and trying anything, including surfing in the nude as he had witnessed locals do.

“In one place we came upon a large company of naked natives, of both sexes and all ages, amusing themselves with the national pastime of surf-bathing,” Twain wrote. “I tried surf-bathing once, subsequently, but made a failure of it. I got the board placed right, and at the right moment, too; but missed the connection myself. The board struck the shore in three-quarters of a second, without any cargo, and I struck the bottom about the same time, with a couple of barrels of water in me.” Twain’s exploits on O‘ahu were wildly embellished, peppering his dispatches with accounts of “Chinamen, in the costume of their country;” “native men on foot, some in the cast off clothing of white folks, and a few wearing a battered hat, an old ragged vest, and nothing else at least nothing but an unnecessarily slender rag passed between the legs;” and “(girls dancing) the lascivious hula hula—a dance that is said to exhibit the very perfection of educated motion of limb and arm, hand, head and body.” WHERE GUEST B OOK

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Tracing Twain’s steps on O‘ahu is akin to reading a travelogue, detailing the author’s own personal Huckleberry Finn adventures. “Mark Twain was not given much to factual details,” wrote Walter Francis Frear in “Mark Twain and Hawaii.” “What he cared for most was the picture, the story, the humor, the philosophy.” Yet, his poetic language and vivid descriptions still inspire the modern-day traveler. He wrote of the Royal Palace, the “town” of Honolulu, the “village” of Waikīkī, the mausoleum of the departed aliʻi (royalty), “handsome Nuuanu Valley” and its neatly lined residences before arriving at the famous “Pari” (Pali), where thousands of warriors were pushed off the escarpment into the valley below.

(This page) Twain described Nu‘uanu Valley as “handsome.” (Opposite page) Most of O‘ahu’s waterfalls are tucked deep inside such valleys, as Mānoa, Nu‘uanu and Waimea.

A gifted raconteur, Twain’s writings evoked an exotic Hawai‘i where “nothing whatever is known about this place— its story is a secret that will never be revealed.” Twain certainly tried to unlock the mysteries, mingling with locals, sampling local food and exploring the island on horseback. “I wandered along the sea beach on my steed Oahu around the base of the extinct crater of Leahi, or Diamond Head, and a quarter of a mile beyond the point I overtook the party of ladies and gentlemen and assumed my proper place— that is, in the rear—for the horse I ride always persists in remaining in the rear in spite of kicks, cuffs and curses,” wrote the Missouri native. “I was satisfied as long as I could keep Oahu within hailing distance of the cavalcade.” W H E R E G U ESTBO O K

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“For me its balmy airs are always blowing, its summer seas flashing in the sun; I can see its garlanded crags, its plumy palms drowsing by the shore, its remote summits floating like islands above the cloud-rack.” much has remained the same. It’s easy to follow in the famous author’s footsteps. And you don’t need a horse. All is required is an adventurous spirit. “Those islands which to me were Paradise,” Twain said, “a Paradise which I had been longing all those years to see again.” That dream — along with many others, of Twain’s — began here, in 1866, on a slow horse, going up a mountain ... and is shared, still, by millions of tourists seeking their own Tom Sawyer-like adventures.

A desire to immerse himself in local culture, Twain set out to meet as many ‘locals’ that he could, encountering along the way such sites as Makapu‘u and the tidal pools below.

“I looked down the precipice of six or eight hundred feet and gazed upward at the sharp peak close at my left,” Twain wrote, “and then saw the full moon rise up and touch the tops of the billows, skip over the gloomy valley and paint the upper third of the high peak as white as silver; and heard the ladies say: “Oh, beautiful! — and such a strong contrast!” and heard the gentlemen remark: ‘By George! talk about scenery! how’s that?’” While much has changed on O‘ahu since Twain’s visit,

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ARCHITECTURAL WONDERS Honolulu buildings feature European-influenced designs BY GINA BAILEY PHOTOGRAPHY BY OLIVIER KONING

As one of the state’s most recognized buildings, Ali‘iolani Hale is home to the gilded statue of King Kamehameha I. After annexation in 1898, the hale was renamed the “Judiciary Building.”

It is often said that the character of a city is defined by its architecture. That being the case, modern day Honolulu is a place of contradictory splendor. We have French and English Gothic revival styles complemented by Italianate influences, pseudo New England parishes and multiple open-air Mediterranean courtyards. We have constructural gems that closely co-exist with Greco-Roman, Beaux Arts, Neoclassical, late Victorian (complete with Byzantine and Corinthian ornamentation), and Renaissance and American-Greek revival-style buildings, in addition to ornate palaces. Besides the uniquely diverse architecture, these historic hales (homes) are within walking distance to world renowned beaches, a stone’s throw away from glittering condominiums and all embedded within the swaying palms of a tropical paradise. Although Honolulu is mostly known for the tourist mecca of Waikīkī—and the television series Hawai‘i Five-O—the downtown and Chinatown districts are lined with a treasure trove of architectural delights. This eclectic array of structures is a direct consequence of Hawai‘i being the only U.S. state to have once been a monarchy, transformed into a territory and eventually becoming the 50th state in 1959.

For architectural aficionados, the novice or those with an intrinsic curious mind—visitors and locals alike—the most efficient, engaging and by far entertaining way to view these famous landmarks is to take the American Institute of Architects (AIA) tour, which is led by an AIA member, including the spry 95-year-old retired architect Frank Haines. The tour is limited to 10 people, conducted on a pre-arranged Saturday morning at 9 and begins at the office of AIA in Honolulu. The ‘walkabout’ consists of 23 stops and lasts about two-and-half hours, depending upon how colorful Haines is on that particular day. “I am enough of a ham to keep enjoying these tours,” chuckles Haines, when asked why he continues these tours after more than two decades. “I started these tours because I was surprised to find that so many of my friends didn’t know about the history of some of these great buildings.” A local institutional landmark in and of himself, Haines begins the tour by quipping, “Just call me grandpa.” However, don’t let the term, his age or waving cane deceive you into thinking this is an ‘amble nomenclature city tour.’ We proceed down Merchant Street toward the Stangewald Building, an Italianate structure that boasts many firsts for Hawai‘i: it was the first six-story, high-rise when it opened WHERE GUEST B OOK

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(This page) Hawaiian Royalty’s appreciation for European architectural styles can be seen with ‘Iolani Palace. (Opposite page) The Alexander & Baldwin Building extends an entire city block on Bishop Street.

in 1901; it was the first fire-proof office; and it was one of the first places that featured an electric elevator. In addition to a Wikipedia amount of information, Haines tosses in enough humor to keep the group riveted and fascinated by bits of trivia only he would know given his former position as president and chairman of Architects Hawai‘i and the principal architect for many prominent projects, including the restoration of the Ali‘iolani Hale (translating to “House of the Heavenly Chiefs”), which he is proudly responsible for restoring in 1975. While conducting research for the project, Haines says his team found a copy of a letter that King Kamehameha

IV wrote to the Hawaiian Consol in Sydney, Australia. “In it, the king stated that he wanted to build a new palace, but since there were ‘no qualified architects in Hawai’i,’ he requested proposals from Australian architects.” But King Kamehameha IV died long before construction ever began. Nonetheless, Ali’iolani Hale and Iolani Palace (meaning “Hawk of Heaven”) were completed in 1874 and 1882, respectively. Both are not only on the list of ‘not to be missed’ when on O‘ahu, but they are also on the State and National Register of Historical Places. One of the many points of interest is the United States Post Office and Courthouse. The Mission/Spanish Revival WHERE GUEST B OOK

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style building certainly belongs in Hawai‘i with its tile roof, stucco exteriors, open courtyard, shady arcades and spacious porticos. Known as the “Federal Building” before 1977, this is where the U.S. District Court for the District of Hawai‘i met from 1959 until 1978. It was renamed the King Kalākaua Building in 2003 and is now occupied by state government offices. It was officially listed on the National Register of Historic Places on January 27, 1975. Also appearing on the same list is the Alexander & Baldwin Building, which extends an entire city block on Bishop Street. Built at a cost of $1.2 million, the steel-andconcrete structure stands out as one of the masterworks of architecture from the 1920s and 1930s in Honolulu. Some of the more notable architectural aspects include the extended upper floor balcony that imparts a residential look, the columned recessed entry with mosaic murals and the terra cotta-clad façade. A collaboration between C.W. Dickey (who was Samuel Alexander’s grandson) and Hart Wood, the building’s interior and exterior feature countless Chinese details—including heads of water buffalo that jut out—to honor the contributions of Chinese labor to A&B’s success. Haines notes that many of the buildings once had brick fronts, which have since been plastered to give a more “contemporary” appearance. Much of the area is now

The Hawai‘i State Capitol reflects Hawai‘i’s emergence into the modern age.

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“I started these tours because I was surprised to find that so many of my friends didn’t know about the history of some of these great buildings. These buildings are a major part of Hawai‘i’s story and they should be preserved and told.”

part of a preservation district, and while interiors can be changed, Haines asserts that exteriors must be kept to historical specifications. Without spoiling too many of the tour’s other astonishing surprises, other highlights include: St. Andrew’s Cathedral known for its Gothic tower and a stained glass mural depicting the history of Christianity from Judea to the Hawaiian Islands; The Hawai‘i Theatre, which opened in 1922 and was considered “The Pride of the Pacific” due to its lavish opulence; Hawai‘i State Capitol with its open-air concept designed to symbolize water, royal palm trees, blue skies and the island’s volcanic origins; Honolulu Hale where 60

interior ceilings are hand-painted, the chandeliers are 4,500 pounds each and the bronze-sheeted front doors weigh 3,000 pounds when combined; and the Hawai‘i State Library with its magnificent arches and an open-sky interior courtyard surrounded by a lushly shaded lawn. As we continued the tour, we learned more about Spanish Colonial, Italian Renaissance, Romanesque and Neoclassical architecture styles. More importantly, we learned that Honolulu harbors some of Hawai‘i’s most significant treasures—all within walking distance. “These buildings are a major part of Hawai‘i’s story,” Haines concludes, “and they should be preserved and told.”

(This page) St. Andrew Cathedral is an example of English Gothic architecture. The original cut stones for the arches and columns were shipped to Hawai‘i in 1867 from British quarries. (Opposite page) The Hawai‘i State Library.

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ARCHITECTURE WALKABOUT American Institute of Architects (AIA) is a nonprofit corporation dedicated to historic preservation. All tours require reservations and cost $15 per person. For more information and/or reservations, visit aiahonolulu.org or call 1-808-628-7245.

NOTABLE MENTIONS Two other notable landmarks not on the tour because of distance, but nonetheless deserve more than a gander, are the Honolulu Museum of Art (1927) often considered “the most graceful building in Hawai‘i,” says architect Robert Lopa; and, the EastWest Center (1962), which architecturally—especially the tranquil Japanese garden—reflects its role in public diplomacy within the Asia-Pacific region.

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ISLAND VIEWS

Known among island residents as the Gathering Place, O‘ahu attracts millions of visitors each year with its stunning beaches, iconic monuments and aloha spirit.

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Leeward O‘ahu

Located 30 miles from Waikīkī, the rural Leeward Coast stretches along O‘ahu’s southwestern tip. Its coastline boasts some of the best beaches and surf spots. Makaha Beach sees massive waves during the winter months. A visit to Makua Beach will reward you with pods of dolphins that frolic in the open ocean. Yokohama Bay is the last strand of sand where sunbathers are welcomed at its curved shoreline. Next, along the Wai‘anae Coast, hike to Ka‘ena Point. It’s said that this spot is where Native Hawaiian souls jumped off to meet their ancestors in the afterlife. WHERE GUEST B OOK

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Downtown Honolulu

Surrounded by historical buildings, downtown Honolulu is the financial and business center of the island. On the waterfront, iconic Aloha Tower was once the tallest building in Honolulu, a landmark that greeted arriving cruise ships. Just west of the Tower, at Honolulu Harbor, fleets of fishing boats arrive before dawn with the day’s freshest catch. Nearby, the Honolulu Fish Auction is the only fresh tuna auction in the United States.

Kaimuki

In the early 1900s, Kaimuki developed into a quaint residential area. Soon after came a host of small businesses, which currently lines the main street called Wai‘alae Avenue. When it comes to a pedestrian-friendly neighborhood, it doesn’t get any better than Kaimuki. The area contains more ethnic restaurants and cafés per capita than most neighborhoods on O‘ahu, along with its fair share of trendy bohemian shops and yoga studios.

ISLAND VIEWS

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East O‘ahu

Along with its sandy beaches and handsome horses greeting passersby, Waimānalo is also home to Sea Life Park—a marine-biology attraction. Just around the bend is Koko Head Crater, a distinguishable landmark and popular hiking spot. Hawai‘i Kai is the largest of the communities nearby, developed by American industrialist Henry J. Kaiser whose vision was to create a community around the ancient Maunalua fishpond and wetlands.

North Shore

Stretching across seven miles, from Kahuku to Ka‘ena Point, the North Shore has long been a destination for surf, shrimp and shave ice. Professional surfers arrive in the winter to compete in the venerable Vans Triple Crown of Surfing. This is the season when spectators scan the ocean for monster swells all along the Seven Mile Miracle, a stretch of beaches that includes Waimea Bay, Banzai Pipeline and Sunset Beach.

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ISLAND VIEWS

This is where legendary waterman Duke Kahanamoku once called his home and singer Don Ho captivated his audience with his smooth vocals and “Tiny Bubbles.” Today, millions of people from around the globe come here to experience the bustling ambiance of O‘ahu’s world famous 1.5-mile stretch of scenic coastline, where sun bathers, swimmers, canoe paddlers and surfers share the beauty of the open ocean and stunning sunsets. 68

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Where do you want to go? Find the best of the city

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Central O‘ahu

From the foothills of Mount Ka‘ala, acres upon acres of pineapple and sugarcane fields once sprawled across Central O‘ahu. Now the H-2 freeway traverses these central plains, past Pearl Harbor, Aloha Stadium and through military bases and planned residential communities with outlet malls and other signs of growing suburbia. A popular regional attraction is Dole Plantation, just past Wahi‘awa on the way to the North Shore.

Windward O‘ahu

If you drive to the windward side of O‘ahu— through the Pali Highway tunnel—catch a glimpse of the turquoise blue waters that shimmer from a distance and you’ll understand why commuters dare to brave the traffic into town. Veer towards the upper east side of the island and you’ll come across Kāne‘ohe and Ka‘a‘awa Valley, which is immortalized in the film Jurassic Park and many of the scenes from the ABC hit television series Lost.

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10/27/16 9/26/16 12:10:35 12:58:26 PM

Top of the Morning EARLY RISERS CLAIM THEIR SPOT ON WAIKĪKĪ BEACH, WHICH WAS ONCE A RETREAT FOR HAWAIIAN ROYALTY. KNOWN IN HAWAIIAN AS “SPOUTING WATERS,” WAIKĪKĪ IS NOW A TOP DESTINATION THAT OFFERS A HOST OF ATTRACTIONS, AWARD-WINNING RESTAURANTS AND A LOT OF FUN IN THE SUN.

PARTING SHOT

W H E R E G U ESTBO O K

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10/26/16 4:03 PM

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10/27/16 12:36:16 PM 9/20/16 11:52:38 AM

THE YACHT-MASTER The emblematic nautical watch embodies a yachting heritage that stretches back to the 1950s. It doesn’t just tell time. It tells history.

OYSTER PERPETUAL YACHT-MASTER 40

rolex

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oyster perpetual and yacht-master are

trademarks.

10/19/16 12:36:23 10/27/16 10:12:10 PM AM