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February PersonaliSe your Paris at wheretraveler.com
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Paris | CONTENTS
Hot Dates
This month’s calendar of must-see events
The guide 18 Shopping
12
Sweet Bites
Go on a tour of the best pastries in the city
The latest trends and the hottest fashions
16
Spreading the Love
44 ARTS & ATTRACTIONS
Our Saint Valentine’s gift guide just for you
This month’s round-up of exhibitions and attractions 58 Dining
Our selection of the month’s finest restaurants 70 ENTERTAINMENT
This month’s best events and shows 78 services
Your guide to getting around the city with maps and transport listings F E BRU A R Y 2 0 2 0 Issue N o 312
PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE ®
Sweet Bites from
PARIS
GirafeSia Phot
FA SHION • ARTS & AT TR AC TIONS • DINING • ENTERTAINMENT • M APS
WP FEV 2020 COVER def.indd 1
09/01/2020 10:45
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on the cover
Turn to page 12 and bite into Cédric Grolet’s famous Rubik’s cake Cover Photo © Pierre Monetta
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If you are looking for a wide selection of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery, you only need to keep one name in mind. For more than 140 years, the name “WEMPE” has stood for the utmost expertise in the art of making jewellery and timepieces at 33 Wempe showrooms worldwide. Our pieces of jewellery uphold international standards and are born in our own atelier. And a century-old friendship links us with the world’s foremost watch manufactories. You will find WEMPE showrooms at the loveliest locations in great European metropolises and in New York City. We look forward to your visit!
Paris, 16, rue Royale, T. 01.42 60 21 77 and at the best addresses in Germany and in London, Madrid, Vienna and New York. www.wempe.com
Welcome to Paris
the team | where PariS
A LETTER FROM THE EDITOR We start the month of February on a sweet note with our Sweet Bites feature where we open our sweet address book to share with you how we spoil our taste buds and get our sweet fix. We then turn the page to
35 rue des Mathurins 75008 Paris, France Tel: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 56 paris@wheremagazine.com www.wherepariseditions.com www.parismap.fr PUBLISHER and General manager
Pascal Tranchant* Tel: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 42 pascal.tranchant@wheremagazine.com EDITOR-in-chief Sandra Iskander*
Valentine’s Day with our Spreading the Love gift guide with great ideas
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Alexander Lobrano, Patricia Valicenti*
to put a smile in anyone’s heart.
ART DIRECTOR - PRODUCTION MANAGER Céline Février* GRAPHIC DESIGN MANAGER Laura Zaharia*
Shopping in the fashion capital is always a magical experience
Shopping Maps Illustrator Aline Zalko
and, in this issue, we bring you our Paris for Two photo shoot with
advertising - KEY account managers Dacha Goigoux*, Sandrine Lauture*, Marie-Alice Moisdon*
sophisticated looks for your date night in the City of Light. Our Shopping pages are also bursting with the latest trends including the
DISTRIBUTION AND HOTEL SERVICES MANAGER Suzanne Tang*
surprising collaborative offering from Moschino and Budweiser.
OFFICE MANAGER Anne-Marie Dancy*
Looking for a rendezvous spot to toast your visit to Paris? Turn to our Entertainment pages where the city spoils you with choice... wine with a view from the Eiffel Tower and signature cocktails at the Mandarin
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Oriental are all on the menu.
President Donna W. Kessler CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER Haines Wilkerson
Meanwhile, the city’s museums and art galleries are putting on quite
MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS Chairman William S. Morris III President and CEO William S. Morris IV
the show with Musée de la Vie Romantique, the Grand Palais and the recently reopened Musée de la Poste curating exhibitions that educate and entertain the culturally inclined, all found in our Arts & Attractions pages. Our foodie readers are also in for a treat this month with a selection of tables serving everything from Italian fare to Asian fusion and of course
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French cuisine waiting to be discovered in our Dining section. We hope you enjoy this issue and your stay in Paris.
Sandra Iskander [Editor-in-Chief]
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Edité par Where Paris SNC. Société en nom collectif constituée le 26 mai 1993 au capital de €1.725.795. Durée 99 ans. 391 247 251 RCS PARIS. Représentant légal: Chris Manning. Tirage: 51,000 (APCM OJD 2017). N° de ISSN: 1241-8625. Dépôt légal Février 2020. Reproduction interdite sauf accord préalable. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. Where® is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications. Printed by Rotolito
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February
HOT DATES What to do in Paris this month
Paris in Photos all month If you are flying out of Terminal 2E of Paris-Charles de Gaulle airport, make sure to stop by the Espace Musées where a wonderful photo exhibition is being showcased. La Traversée de Paris de Frank Horvat brings together over 50 photographs taken by the photographer who captured the romance of Paris through its fashion, celebrity and amour. 8 W H E R E Pa r i s I F E B R UAR Y 2020
PARIS THIS MONTH
Crazy in Love From February 10 to 16
Frank Horvat-1955, Paris, France, Quai du Louvre, Espace Musées 1er nov-30 avril © Frank Horvat; Crazy hrse, Antoine Poupel, Reine des Coeurs Patrick Demarchelier, Dior Haute Couture. SS 1947. 2011; ALAIA scisseaux_CMJN © Jean- Baptiste Mondino, 1988;
French cabaret Crazy Horse is celebrating Valentine’s Day with Crazy Love Week. Every evening the Totally Crazy revue will be performed to the tunes of love songs, bringing a whole lot of amour to the stage. A clairvoyant will also be holding private sessions in the cabaret’s famous phone booth to reveal your destiny, just email loveweek@ lecrazyhorseparis.com to reserve.
A Fashion Show ALL MONTH
In the Family From February 24 A. Galerie is hosting Heritage, a photo exhibition bringing together beautiful works by French photographer Patrick Demarchelier and his son Victor Demarchelier. The images show off both their talents as well as the artistic eye that clearly runs in the family, that sees them bring out the beauty in everything from a posing model to a grinning teddy bear, capturing every object with the signature Demarchelier light. 4 rue Léonce Reynaud (16th), 06 20 85 85 85
For appreciators of fashion, and its history, a stunning exhibition awaits at the Association Azzedine Alaïa. Azzedine Alaïa Collectionneur Alaïa et Balenciaga Sculpteurs de la Forme brings together, for the first time, couture creations by Cristobal Balenciaga and Azzedine Alaïa, two designers who took pride in fashioning wearable art. Shown side by side, the pieces are a breathtaking demonstration of attention to detail in fashion and flattering silhouettes. 18 rue de la Verrerie (4th), 01 42 72 19 19 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 9
PARIS THIS MONTH
Trade Shows & Art Fairs February 1-2 Salon de la Gastronomie des Outre-Mer et de la Francophonie This show is devoted to the savours and flavours of the French Antilles and countries of the Frenchspeaking world and also highlights the culture, heritage and know-how of these regions. Cooking competitions, conferences, debates and fun events are all on the agenda. The show is open from 10am until 11pm on the 1st and until 7pm on the 2nd. www.sagasdom.com Paris Expo 1 Place de la Porte de Versailles (15th)
It’s All an Illusion All Month The city of Paris recently welcomed a new museum to its already outstanding list of cultural spaces, and this time the new space celebrates a different kind of knowledge, illusion. The Musée de l’Illusion educates the visitors in the world of illusions, plunging you into the Vortex Tunnel, losing you in the Infinity Room, and playing with the laws of gravity, all while showing you how perception works, making for an educational attraction that is fun for the whole family. 98 rue Saint-Denis (1st), 07 66 72 76 40
Skating Around all Month Show off your best moves on ice at La Patinoire des Jardins du Trocadéro. Set up on the terrace of the Aquarium de Paris, facing the illuminated Eiffel Tower, there is no better way to spend an evening with kids in Paris, watching their faces light up as the Tower twinkles in front of them. The bonus? The parents can enjoy a glass of champagne! La Terrasse de l’Aquarium de Paris, 5 ave Albert de Mun (16th)
February 5-9 RETROMOBILE This is the show for vintage, classic and collectable vehicles. Some 600 exhibitors are on-hand presenting close to 1000 models along with artists, clubs and federations, bookshops, rally organisers and miniature sellers. There is also an exhibition devoted to French tanks. An official auction, organised by Artcurial Motorcars, is held on the 7th. The show is open from 10am to 7pm, and until 10pm on the 5th and the 7th. www.retromobile.fr Paris Expo 1 Place de la Porte de Versailles (15th)
February 10-12 WINE PARIS This international and major event dedicated to wine is being held for the second time this year. The event showcases wine-producing regions with a special accent on the diversity of French wines. Some 2000 exhibitors are slated to participate in the event. The show is open from 9am to 7pm, and until 5pm on the 12th. www.wineparis.com Paris Expo, 1 Place de la Porte de Versailles (15th)
This art show brings together over 500 contemporary confirmed and emerging artists from 30 countries. The show emphasises diverse mediums with painting, sculpture, drawing, photography, digital art, ceramics and installations all on display. The show is open from 11am to 8pm. www.artistes-indépendants.fr Grand Palais Ave Winston Churchill (8th), 01 45 63 39 14
A Parisian Chalet Through to February 15 An annual tradition for the Park Hyatt Paris-Vendôme is to turn its patio into a winter wonderland, and this year is no different with the Chalet du Park opening its cosy doors. Snow-capped on the outside, warm and toasty on the inside, the Chalet is a haven to escape the cold and dine on raclette and champagne. Call 01 58 71 10 60 to reserve. 5 rue de la Paix (2nd) 10 W HE RE Pa r i s I F E B R UAR Y 2020
February 13-17 PARAPSY This show is devoted to clairvoyance, telepathy, astrology, divination, the esoteric and alternative science and medicine. Healing, well-being, destiny readings, consultations, hypnosis demonstrations and conferences are also on the agenda. The show is open from 10.30am to 8pm, and until 10pm on the 14th. www.salonparapsy.com Espace Champerret Place de la Porte de Champerret (17th)
Musée de l’Illusion DR; Park Hyatt Paris Vendôme © Caspar Miskin Phtotgraphy
February 12-16 ART CAPITAL-SALON DES INDEPENDANTS
Sweet Bites By Sandra Iskander
12 W HE RE Pa r i s I F E B R UAR Y 2020
Feature
Angelina’s Mot d’Amour (above) and François Perret’s Le Miel (opposite page) Christophe Michalak’s Choux Bonbon Caramel (below)
La Table de L’Espadon Le Miel François Perret et Matthieu Cellard; Angelina photo Aimery Chemin 2017; Christophe Michalak © Delphine Michalak
Y
ou don’t have to be a dessert snob to know that the most talented pastry chefs in the world hail from France, after all it is the land where the éclair, the Paris-Brest and the humble macaron were created. Here in Paris, the centre of the culinary world, we are spoilt for choice with the abundance of pastries on offer. Delicately created with layers of buttery puff pastry, light and airy cream, and irresistibly displayed in pastry shop windows, the city is the proverbial oyster for dessert connoisseurs, and here we have carefully handpicked the crème de la crème of pastry chefs and their edible creations to let you taste for yourselves the reason why France is the leader in pastry-making.
signature Rubik’s Cake. One of the chef’s signature desserts though is his standout creation, La Noisette (The Hazelnut). Presented in the shape of an extra-large hazelnut, the dessert is made with a thin layer of chocolate to form the nut shape while inside a hazelnut mousse hides a caramel and praline heart. François Perret, the head pastry chef of the luxurious Ritz hotel, is the mastermind behind the dessert menus of all the hotel’s dining establishments including the fine dining restaurant L’Espadon and Bar Vendôme. Perret has created both delightful desserts that appeal to the sense of taste but has also created visually appetising treats. Perret’s signature The Madeleine, a super-sized Madeleine cake, is the French
He created dreamy desserts, he named his former brand La Pâtisserie des Rêves (The Pastry of Dreams), and now Philippe Conticini has opened a new pastry shop in the 16th arrondissement where visitors are invited to sample the pastry chef’s sweet offerings. Focussing on making the traditional and much-loved desserts of France, but with delicious twists, it is no surprise that the results are always heavenly. One such delight is Conticini’s award-winning Paris-Brest, which sees the choux pastry filled with a praline cream that enrobes another layer of praline, a more intense, yet lighter in texture, praline cream. Pastry chef Cédric Grolet has seduced the world with his craft in pastrymaking with the chef creating visually enticing desserts, sometimes too good to eat. His desserts are what Instagram posts are made of, and now Grolet has opened his first traditional bakery where humbler, though always delicious, creations from the chef are to be sampled. Fresh baguette bread aside, this is the rendezvous for one of the city’s best pain au chocolat and “simple” French desserts such as the Saint-Honoré and flan. Cédric Grolet of course remains the star trompe l’oeil artist at Le Meurice hotel where he continues to create his fruit and nut “pastries” and his w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 13
Feature
Clockwise from top left: Philippe Conticini’s Paris-Brest; Michael Bartocetti’s chocolate dessert with truffles; Freshly baked pies from Yann Couvreur
cake that is only truly appreciated when in France, and here at the Ritz it is perfectly airy, buttery, and hard to believe it is considered only as a sponge cake. Meanwhile, over in the fine dining L’Espadon, Perret flexes his talents for a more sophisticated menu of desserts that sees him create masterpieces such as Le Miel, celebrating the sweetness of honey at the end of dinner in the shape of perfectly shaped honeycomb cells.
Yann Couvreur’s pastry shop serves freshly baked scrolls, perfect layers of buttery pastry enrobing dark chocolate and pistachios, and fluffy and sweet brioche to perfectly accompany your morning or afternoon cup of coffee. The talents of the chef who seduced 5-star hotel patrons is demonstrated here with a counter of cakes, including the strawberry cake and pistachio tart, which will leave anyone with a sweet tooth salivating, however, if a choice needs to be made, it is the chef’s famous Millefeuille that is the clear winner. The signature dessert is made in front of your eyes 14 W HE RE Pa r i s I F E B R UAR Y 2020
Philippe Conticini © Lola Antonetti
Celebrated pastry chef Christophe Michalak walked away from the Plaza Athénée to concentrate on his own pastry shops and this dedication has led to more pastry shops opening around the city. His signature pastry, the salted caramel religieuse, was one of his most famous desserts at the Plaza and now visitors can try his spinoff, the Choux Bonbon Caramel, with a rich caramel sauce in the heart waiting to be bitten into.
La Noisette by Cédric Grolet for Le Meurice
Cédric Grolet Le Meurice © Pierre Monetta; Cédric Grolet © Pierre Monetta
with the layers of the delicate pastry mounted carefully with vanilla cream. Only a limited number of the Millefeuille is made per day and is sold on the condition that it is to be devoured immediately with the chef unwilling to compromise the flaky and golden pastry becoming moist from the vanilla if it is to be taken away and eaten later. With such a condition you really do not need an excuse to delay taking a bite!
Cédric Grolet’s flan
Sweet Tasting Address Book Philippe Conticini 42 rue de l’Annonciation (16th), 01 56 40 01 22 Cédric Grolet 35 ave de l’Opéra (2nd), 01 83 95 21 02
He constantly surprised guests at the Shangri-La hotel with his sweet designs and thoughtful menus, including the introduction of the hotel’s vegan high tea. Now talented pastry chef Michael Bartocetti has taken over the reins at the Four Seasons Hotel George V where he is turning the dessert menus into elaborate creations with surprising combinations. Case in point is Bartocetti’s new dessert for Le George restaurant where the menu now includes a chocolate dessert topped with melted chocolate, chocolate shavings, and shavings of white truffle, creating an original and complementary fusion of delicacies.
La Pâtisserie du Meurice par Cédric Grolet 6 rue de Castiglione (1st), 01 44 58 69 19
While it is known for its African hot chocolate and MontBlanc, the house of Angelina is embracing originality this month with the creation of Mot d’Amour, a limitededition dessert available only from the 8th to the 16th of February. The edible scroll is a declaration of love with white chocolate wrapped around raspberry mousse with notes of lime, delicately set on a sablé biscuit.
Four Seasons Hotel George V 31 ave George V (8th), 01 49 52 70 00
The Ritz 15 Place Vendôme (1st), 01 43 16 30 30 Christophe Michalak 16 rue de la Verrerie (4th), 01 40 27 90 13 Yann Couvreur 23bis rue des Rosiers (4th), 06 05 97 63 01
Angelina 226 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 42 60 82 00
w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 15
Saint Valentine’s Gift Guide
Spreading the Love By Sandra Iskander
Réauté Chocolat chocolate bouquet Réauté Chocolat Boutique 78 blvd de Clichy (18th), 09 67 49 67 96
La Maison du Chocolat Paris Je t’Aime gift box La Maison du Chocolat Boutique 8 blvd de la Madeleine (9th), 01 47 42 86 52
Armand de Brignac champagne Available at Lavinia 3 blvd de la Madeleine (1st), 01 42 97 20 20 16 W HE RE Paris I F E B R UA R Y 2020
Guerlain x La Poste postage stamps Available at Carré d’Encre 13 bis rue des Mathurins (9th), 01 86 21 02 29
Maison Douze unisex zodiac-inspired fragrances Available at Hôtel Bel Ami 7 rue Saint-Benoît (6th), 01 42 61 53 53
Foundrae golden key charm Available at Mad Lords 316 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 45 25 08 31
Amazon Echo Dot Available at Fnac, Galerie du Claridge 74 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) Apple iPad and Apple Pencil Apple Store 114 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 70 98 09 00
Chloé Stora x CSAO throw pillow Chloé Stora Boutique 21 rue Saint-Sulpice (6th), 01 43 29 47 23 1083 x La Gentle Factory Ensemble sweatshirt 1083 Boutique 114 rue de Turenne (3rd), 01 71 27 56 78 w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 17
The Guide
Shopping
By Sandra Iskander
Loic wears Maison Montagut sweater Emanuel Ungaro pants Rolex watch Turn to page 28 for more looks from our Paris for Two fashion shoot
18 W HE RE Pa r i s I F E B R UAR Y 2020
Check out XXXX Shooting SXXX on page 48
Photo © Alex Fadel
New Collections | Accessories | Made in France | New Boutiques | Beauty
Shopping
New Collections
Art Meets Jewellery An ode to Paul Gaugin, Frey Wille’s latest collection is a wonderfully colourful collage of French Polynesian exotic flowers, a great source of inspiration for the French artist. The collection is made up of three lines, Polynesia, Tahiti and Bora Bora, with each line depicting a tropical plant, bringing to life the paradise that the post-impressionist called home for a decade. Rings, cuff bracelets, pendants and even a silk scarf are dressed in flora from the tropical islands. - S.I. Frey Wille Boutique 167 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 42 60 47 47
Agatha © Thierry Legay
Birthday Jewels Celebrating a milestone is always better done with golden jewellery, and to celebrate its 45th anniversary, Agatha released the AGATHA45ANS collection. The birthday collection is made up of vintage-style pieces that includes this “coin” ring, as well as matching Grecian-style necklaces, bracelet and earrings. - S.I. Agatha Boutique 5 Place des Victoires (1st), 01 40 39 08 25
w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 19
Shopping
Accessories
Beer-Inspired Jeremy Scott’s love for pop culture and collaborations is ever so present in the designer’s creations. And Moschino’s creative director is at it again, this time celebrating Budweiser beer in fashion with the Moschino x Budweiser collection. The limited-edition capsule collection sees 15 pieces dressed in the colours and logo of the famous beer including this calfskin beer can-shaped holdall bag. - S.I. Moschino Boutique 255 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 45 72 56 90
The house of Glashütte Original has brought out its new PanoMaticLunar timepiece set in a case of polished and satin-brushed red gold. The case frames a hand-crafted dark blue dial whose individual displays are arranged off-centre on the dial with the hours and minutes dial and the small seconds dial placed on the left side while the characteristic Panorama Date is accompanied by the moon phase on the right. The hour and minute hands are set off with golden accents and their luminous inlays ensure fine legibility no matter the lighting conditions. The beautiful moon phase display is an elaborately crafted moon disc presenting golden stars blazing in a silver sky. The watch’s automatic movement, the 90-02, is visible through the sapphire crystal case. The timepiece has a power reserve of 42 hours and is outfitted with a blue Louisiana alligator leather strap. - P.V. Glashütte Boutique 6 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01 58 62 11 10
20 W HE RE Pa r i s I F E B R UAR Y 2020
Watch Photo © Glashütter Uhrenbetrieb GmbH
The Glamour of Glashütte
Elegance from head to toe.
OPEN ON SUNDAYS PALAIS DES CONGRÈS DE PARIS 2, PLACE DE LA PORTE MAILLOT PARIS 17e
Shopping
Slogan Trends
Wear your Français on your heart with French Disorder’s slogan tees
Zen Wear Get your yoga on in style with Yuj’s yoga wear. The brand focuses on creating pieces ideal for practising yoga in comfort including stretchy leggings and formfitting bralets. The collection also makes pieces that can easily take you from the yoga studio to brunch including the organic cotton Voulez-vous faire du yoga avec moi ce soir? t-shirt, a cheeky tee for all yogis. - s.i. Yuj Yoga Studio 11 rue Edmond Valentin (7th), 01 45 33 31 34
This month love is in the air and with that comes a limited-edition collection celebrating the love Hugo Boss has for David Bowie. The Hugo Loves Bowie capsule collection sees t-shirts and baseball caps adorned with quotes from the iconic singer’s songs. Perfect for both ladies and gentlemen but most of all perfect for all Bowie fans. - s.i. Hugo Boutique 118 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01 44 08 02 75 22 W HE RE Pa r i s i F E B r Ua r Y 2020
Available at Le Bon Marché 24 rue de Sèvres (7th), 01 44 39 80 00
Yuj t-shirt © Yuj; Hugo © TM STUDIOS
Loving Bowie
Shopping
French Finds
Made in FRAnCE By sandra iskander
Discover our month’s selection of items made with a savoir-faire unique to France
Get running in 1083’s 951 sneakers. The unisex sneakers are comfortable, chic and now come in a deep purple hue to stand out in any crowd. 1083 Boutique 114 rue de Turenne (3rd), 01 71 27 56 78
scent your lingerie drawer with Amanda de Montal’s Candy Box. The sweet-smelling box comes with scented wax “bonbons” to slip into your drawers to keep its contents perfumed. Available at Galeries Lafayette Champs-Elysées 60 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 83 65 61 00
Keep your pout kissable with Officine Universelle Buly’s Baume des Muses lip balm. The balm, made with natural ingredients, comes in a vegetable leather compact that can be embossed with your initials. Officine Universelle Buly Boutique 6 rue Bonaparte (6th), 01 43 29 02 50
Master your princess-inspired coiffure and keep your tresses intact with Les Couronnes de Victoire’s dainty hair clips. Les Couronnes de Victoire Boutique 230 rue Saint-Martin (3rd), 06 46 56 54 69
24 W HE RE Pa r i s i F E B r Ua r Y 2020
Amanda de Montal © Jérôme Puissant; Buly © Pierre Mahieu
For all sneakerheads, Andrée Jardin’s Le Kit sneakers is a must. The kit includes gentle soap, anti-stain waterproofing spray and a brush to make sure sneakers are always squeaky clean. Available at Le Bazar Français 24 rue de l’Abbé Grégoire (6th)
Shopping
New Boutiques
Liu Jo Labels Born in Carpi, italy, Liu Jo is known for its fine italian craftsmanship, and now you can step into the Liu Jo world in the house’s new boutique in the fashion capital. in the new space discover the ready-to-wear brand’s different collections including the White and Black Labels and of course the Denim collection, where it all started for the house. - s.i. Liu Jo Boutique 20 rue de Charonne (11th), 01 43 38 71 70
Boho Looks it is in an old printer’s space that sessùn opened its latest boutique earlier last year and it is in this new address you can discover the French readyto-wear brand’s timeless collections. inspired by Latin-american crafts, the brand always features rich and earth-toned pieces in every collection, and the spring/summer 2020 collection is no exception with shirts and blouses available in soft sand dune peach and light pink terracotta. - s.i. Sessùn Boutique 98 rue Legendre (17th), 01 42 28 13 72
For Your Eyes Only shade your eyes with a new pair of sunnies from the very first ray-Ban boutique in France. From classic aviators to tinted specs, the boutique is a perfect space to choose your latest pair of sunglasses for the upcoming sunnier weather.. - s.i. Ray-Ban Boutique 57 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 40 26 07 84 w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 25
Shopping Beauty
Inner BEAUTY By Sandra Iskander
Beauty starts from within and with these 4 beauty supplements you will be glowing from the inside out.
Get your beauty sleep with Laboratoire Giphar’s Sommeil supplements. Plant extracts, essential oils and melatonin come together to help you destress to get a better night’s sleep, resulting in better looking skin, as your body boosts blood flow to your skin as you sleep. Available at Pharmacie du Coq Héron 7 rue du Coq Héron (1st), 01 42 33 11 50
Treat your tresses with extra TLC with Hair Burst’s Unicorn Vegan Hair Vitamins. Containing zinc, the chewable vitamins work to counteract the negative effects of over-styling, heat and colouring to give your hair a boost from within for healthier locks. Available at Sephora 26 W HE RE Pa r i s I F E B R UAR Y 2020
Brighten your skin with D-Lab Nutricosmetics’s Pure-Radiance gummies. With maritime pine bark extract and Superoxide Dismutase, extracted from melon, working together, the supplements promise to prevent the production of free radicals to protect the skin from the effects of aging, leaving you with a brighter complexion. Available at Sephora 70 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 58 12 03 15
Revitalise and hydrate your skin with Florêve’s [In] Glow Radiance Treatment. The 2-week cure, with hyaluronic acid, zinc and vitamin C, helps to moisturise your skin from the inside out to leave you with a softer, smoother skin and an inner, and outer, glow. Available at Pharmacie Monge 1 Place Monge (5th), 01 43 31 39 44
Light the flame at La Vallée Village and find the perfect gift in more than 110 fashion and lifestyle boutiques at reduced prices in a charming open-air setting. Open 7 days a week, 40 minutes from Paris and 5 minutes from Disney® Parks.
Something Extraordinary Every Day™
© La Vallée Village 2019
12/19
Paris for Two Photographer: Alex Fadel Art Direction & Fashion Editor: Sandra Iskander Stylist: Nikky Chicano Make-Up Artist: Tania Carvalho Hair Stylist: Kevin Rajsavong Models: Loic Durand from Bananas Models and Frida J from Makers Photographer’s Assistant: Angel Lepenec Special thanks to The Peninsula Paris Hotel
Loic wears Pal Zileri suit and shirt Frida wears Paule Ka blouse Sandra Mansour skirt Chanel Joaillerie necklace, bracelet and ring 28 W HE RE Pa r i s I F E B R UAR Y 2020
w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr   29
Piaget necklace and ring Sandra Mansour dress
30 W HE RE Pa r i s I F E B R UAR Y 2020
Emanuel Ungaro jacket Corneliani shirt and pants w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr   31
Frida wears Harry Winston necklace, earrings, cuff bracelet and ring Carven shirt Jitrois skirt Loic wears Berteil sweater and pants Harry Winston watch
32 W HE RE Pa r i s I F E B R UAR Y 2020
Dior dress Chopard necklace, earrings and ring Roger Vivier heels w w w.p w. p a r i s m a p. fr   33
Paule Ka jacket Adeline Ziliox dress Pierre Hardy heels De Beers necklace and earrings 34 W HE RE Pa r i s I F E B R UAR Y 2020
Loic wears Smuggler suit Zara t-shirt Frida wears Emanuel Ungaro dress Mikimoto necklace
w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr   35
Address Book
shopping
For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris Accessories Acaba - 41 rue des Petits Champs (1st), 01.71.72.96.45. Metro: Pyramides Doré Doré - 66 rue de Rennes (6th),
01.45.48.85.52. Metro: Sèvres Babylone
Laulhère - 14-16 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th),
in the courtyard, 01.42.65.90.59. Metro: Madeleine
Joué Club - 3-5 blvd des Italiens (2nd),
BHV Marais - 55 rue de Rivoli (4th), 09.77.40.14.00.
Marquise de Laborde - 29 rue de Richelieu (1st),
Galeries Lafayette - 40 blvd Haussmann (9th),
Metro: Hôtel de Ville
01.53.45.41.41. Metro: Richelieu-Drouot 01.72.38.26.68. Metro: Pyramides
clothing: men & Women
01.60.42.35.00. RER A4 to Val d’Europe (about 35min)
Le Bon Marché - 24 rue de Sèvres (7th), 01.44.39.80.00. Metro: Sèvres-Babylone
Besides Kimchi - 7 rue Saint-Martin (4 ), th
01.42.77.23.68. M° Châtelet
Leica Store Paris Rive Gauche - 13 rue du Cherche-Midi (6th), 01.88.83.60.60. Metro: SèvresBabylone
Beretta Gallery - 57 rue Pierre Charron (8th), 01.56.88.59.59. Metro: George V
Montblanc - 152 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.44.20.07.70. Metro: George V
Burberry - 56 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), Metro: Madeleine
Swarovski - 32 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.65.28.10. Metro: Madeleine
Capel - 26 blvd Malesherbes (8th), 01.42.66.34.21. Metro: Madeleine
BeAuty spAs & products
Les Boutiques du Palais - 2 place de la Porte Maillot (17th), 01.40.68.10.00. Metro: Porte Maillot Val d’Europe - 14 cours du Danube, 77700 Serris, 01.60.42.39.39. RER A
Chanel - 19 & 31 rue Cambon (1 ), 01.44.50.34.19. st
Metro: Concorde
Atelier Cologne - 17 rue des Francs Bourgeois (4th), 01.42.71.88.29. Metro: Saint-Paul
Coach - 372 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.86.02.39. Metro: Tuileries
Ban Thai Spa - 25 ave Raymond Poincare (16th), 01.43.59.39.39. Metro: Trocadéro
Dior - 30 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.40.73.73.73. Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt
Guerlain - 68 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th),
Icicle - 35 ave George V (8th), 01.43.59.15.17.
L’Artisan Parfumeur -167 blvd Saint-Germain
Hugo Boss - 15 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th),
01.45.62.52.57. Metro: George V
(6th), 01.43.27.47.87. Metro: Saint-Germain-des-Près
Lanvin- 22 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.71.31.73. Metro: Concorde Liu Jo - 182 blvd Saint-Germain (7th),
Serge Lutens - 142 Galerie de Valois (1st),
La Martina - 39 rue Saint Placide (6th),
Pianos Pleyel - 93-95 ave Daumesnil (12th),
01.45.61.53.00. Metro: Gare de Lyon
Shakespeare & Company - 37 rue de la Bûcherie (5 ), 01.43.25.40.93. Mº Saint-Michel th
W.H. Smith - 248 rue de Rivoli (1st),
01.44.77.88.99. Mº Concorde
Bonpoint - 6 rue de Tournon (6th), 01.40.51.98.20.
Metro: Mabillon
Jacadi - 17 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.42.65.84.98.
Metro: Madeleine
01.45.48.24.23. Metro: Rue du Bac
Meyrowitz - 5 rue de Castiglione (1st),
01.42.60.63.64. Metro: Tuileries
fABrics - couture Janssens & Janssens - 3 rue d’Anjou (8th), 01.42.65.04.00. Metro: Concorde
home
01.43.27.88.42. Metro: Sèvres - Babylone
Baccarat - 79 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th),
Marella - 18 place de la Madeleine (8th),
01.42.65.36.26. Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt
01.53.30.73.13. Metro: Madeleine
Bernardaud - 11 rue Royale (8th), 01.47.42.82.66.
Prada - 6 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8 ), th
Metro: Madeleine
01.58.18.63.30. Metro: Madeleine
Repeat Cashmere - 181 blvd Saint-Germain (7 ),
Christofle - 9 rue Royale (8th), 01.55.27.99.13.
Saint Laurent - 53 ave Montaigne (8 ), 01.53.83.84.53. Metro: Franklin Roosevelt
Haviland - 6 rue Royale (8th), 01.40.06.91.08.
th
01.43.25.96.11. Metro: Saint-Germain-des-Prés th
Tommy Hilfiger - 43 blvd des Capucines (2 ),
depArtment stores & shopping centres Beaugrenelle - 12 rue Linois (15th),
01.53.95.24.00. Metro: Charles Michels
Metro: Concorde
Metro: Concorde nd
Meyrowitz | eye weAr 36 W HE RE Pa r i s I F E B R UAR Y 2020
Lafont Opticien - 17 blvd Raspail (7th),
01.53.71.15.40. Metro: Saint-Germain-des-Prés
01.42.60.70.02. Metro: Madeleine
children’s clothing & toys
Westfield Les 4 Temps - 15 parvis de La Défense, 92092 Puteaux, 01.47.73.54.44. Metro: La Défense
01.42.22.74.99. Metro: Rue du Bac
Sephora - 70-72 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th),
Books & music
(9th), 01.42.82.50.00. Metro: Havre-Caumartin
eye WeAr
01.53.57.35.40. Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt
Maître Parfumeur et Gantier - 5 rue des Capucines (1st), 01.42.96.35.13. Metro: Opéra
01.49.27.09.09. Metro: Palais Royal
78340 Les Clayes sous Bois, 01.72.87.90.11
Printemps Haussmann - 64 blvd Haussmann
(8th), 01.40.76.00.13. Metro: George V
Karl Lagerfeld - 194 blvd Saint-Germain (7th),
01.53.93.22.50. Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt
One Nation Paris - 1 ave du Président Kennedy,
GrandOptical - 138 ave des Champs-Elysées
Metro: George V
L’Occitane - 55 rue Saint-Louis en L’Ile (4th), 01.40.46.81.71. Metro: Pont Marie
01.42.82.34.56. Metro: Chaussée d’Antin-La Fayette
La Vallée Village - 3 cours de la Garonne,
Lalique - 11 rue Royale (8th), 01.53.05.12.12. Metro: Madeleine Le Jacquard Français - 53 rue Bonaparte (6th), 01.53.10.00.81. Metro: Mabillon
Roche Bobois - 207-213 blvd Saint-Germain
(7th), 01.49.54.01.70. Metro: Rue du Bac
Sabre - 17 rue Vignon (8th), 01.40.07.96.63. Metro: Madeleine
Laulhère | Accessories
shopping
Address Book
JeWellery & WAtches A. Lange & Söhne - 241 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.65.68.71. Metro: Concorde
Patek Philippe - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.44.17.77. Metro: Tuileries
Louis Vuitton - 101 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th),
Piaget - 7 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.58.62.37.00.
Moynat - 348 rue Saint-Honoré (1st),
01.53.57.52.00. Metro: George V
Angela Caputi Giuggiu - 15 Galerie Véro-Dodat (1st), 01.40.39.01.51. Metro: LouvreRivoli
Metro: Opéra
01.47.03.83.97. Metro: Tuileries
Richard Mille - 17 ave Matignon (8th),
Pinel & Pinel - 5 blvd Malesherbes (8th),
Arije - 3 rue de Castiglione (1st),
Rolex - 9 place Vendôme (1 ), 01.40.20.21.00. Metro: Concorde
01.40.15.10.00. Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt
01.42.60.58.39 Metro: Concorde
st
01.42.60.37.77. Metro: Tuileries
Audemars Piguet - 15 rue Royale (8 ), th
01.40.20.45.45. Metro: Concorde
Boucheron - 26 place Vendôme (1st),
01.42.61.58.16. Metro: Opéra
Tasaki - At the Ritz Paris, 15 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.36.33.00. Metro: Tuileries
01.55.31.74.00. Metro: Havre-Caumartin
Tiffany&Co. - 6 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.40.20.20.20.
L’Éclaireur - 10 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th),
Tissot Boutique - 76 ave des Champs-Elysées
Merci - 111 blvd Beaumarchais (3rd),
Bucherer - 12 blvd des Capucines (9 ), 01.70.99.18.88. Metro: Opéra
Metro: Opéra
Bulgari - 25 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.00.50.
(8th), 01.42.56.18.53. Metro: George V
Cartier - 23 place Vendôme (1st), 01.44.53.32.20. Metro: Opéra
01.55.04.11.11. Metro: Opéra
Chanel Jewellery -18 place Vendôme (1st),
Metro: Concorde
th
Metro: Pyramides
01.53.43.03.70. Metro: Concorde
01.42.77.00.33. Metro: Saint Sébastien-Froissard
Van Cleef & Arpels - 22 place Vendôme (1st), Wempe - 16 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.21.77.
01.40.98.55.55. Metro: Opéra
Chopard - 1 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.20.10.
multi-BrAnd Boutiques Citadium - 56 rue de Caumartin (9th),
shoes Altan Bottier - 11 rue Lincoln (8th), 01.45.63.77.59. Metro: George V
lingerie
Arche - 8 rue des Francs Bourgeois (3rd), 01.57.40.94.05. Metro: Saint-Paul
Metro: Opéra
Agent Provocateur - 12 rue Cambon (1st),
Damiani - 19 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.96.95.51. Metro: Opéra
Berluti - 26 rue Marbeuf (8th), 01.53.93.97.97.
Cadolle - 4 rue Cambon (1st) , 01.42.60.94.22.
Camper - 8 place de l’Opéra (9th), 01.42.66.52.43.
01.42.61.79.54. Metro: Madeleine
Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt
Dinh Van - 16 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.74.49. Metro: Opéra
Metro: Madeleine
Metro: Opéra
Dubail - 71-73 ave des Champs- Elysées (8th),
Chantal Thomass - 211 rue Saint-Honoré (1st),
01.42.60.40.56. Metro: Tuileries
Christian Louboutin - 68 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.68.37.65. Metro: Madeleine
La Perla - 20 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th),
Corthay - 1 rue Volnay (2nd), 01.42.61.09.89.
01.45.62.62.45. Metro: George V
Elysées Horlogerie - 14 rue de Berri (8th),
01.45.62.62.45. Metro: George V
Elysées Joaillerie - 17 rue de Berri (8 ), th
01.42.89.89.88. Metro: George V
Fred - 14 rue de la Paix (2 ), 01.42.86.60.60. Metro: Opera nd
01.43.12.33.50. Metro: Concorde
luggAge And BAgs Aïzea - 62 Galerie Vivienne (2nd), 09.86.58.69.41. Metro: Bourse
Goralska Joaillerie Paris - 12 rue de la Paix
Coach - 372-374 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.86.02.39.
Harry Winston - 29 ave Montaigne (8th),
Goyard - 233 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.57.04. Metro: Tuileries
(2nd), 01.42.61.25.71. Metro: Opéra
01.47.20.03.09. Metro: Alma-Marceau
Hublot - 271 rue Saint-Honoré (1 ) , 01.47.03.39.99. Metro: Concorde st
Mellerio dits Meller - 9 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.57.53. Metro: Opéra
Omega - 362/364 rue Saint-Honoré (2nd),
01.55.35.03.60. Metro: Concorde
Panerai - 5 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th),
Metro: Madeleine
Metro: Opéra
Crockett & Jones – 14 rue Chauveau-Lagarde (8th), 01.44.94.01.74. Metro: Madeleine
Ecco – 15 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01.42.61.20.64.
Metro: Pyramides
Edward Green – 199 bis blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.53.63.47.50. Metro: Rue du Bac Heschung – 11 rue de Sévigné (4th), 01.42.71.33.68. Metro: Saint-Paul
Hermès - 24 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.47.17. Metro: Concorde
J.M. Weston – 55 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.45.62.26.47 . Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt
Il Bisonte - 17 rue du Cherche-Midi (6th), 01.42.22.08.41. Metro: Sèvres - Babylone
Paraboot - 9 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.45.49.24.26.
Justine Red - 2 rue Guisarde (6th), 09.80.44.72.34.
Repetto - 22 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.44.71.83.12.
Lancel - 127 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th),
Robert Clergerie - 5 rue du Cherche-Midi (6th),
Metro: Mabillon
Metro: Saint-Sulpice
Metro: Opéra
01.44.51.50.50. Metro: Concorde
01.56.89.15.70. Metro: George V
01.45.48.75.47. Metro: Rennes
Parmigiani - 125-126 Galerie de Valois (1st),
Longchamp - 404 rue Saint-Honoré (1st),
Tod’s - 21 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.16.16. Metro: Concorde
01.40.13.93.93. Metro: Palais-Royal
01.43.16.00.16. Metro: Concorde
Leica | Accessories
Capel | clothing: Men & woMen w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 37
LUXURY MAP
Faubourg Saint-Honoré
AB OÉT
Philippine Janssens •
IE
• Christie’s
AVE
EL AB OÉT EL
SAINT-AUGUSTIN
UÉP
NORÉ
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E C
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OÉT
RU
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AB
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AC
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RB HE
RUE D
ES
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AL DM AR EV UL BO
RUE D
ROYAL
T H U R IN
NORÉ
ES MA
Église de la Madeleine
•
Marella
• Zwilling E SÈZE
MA
E
INES
• Bucherer • Cartier • Tag Heuer • Samsonite
INE
Omega•
UC
APUC
AP
S
DES C
SC
RUE
DE
Hackett •
RD
Vendôme
EVA
Place
UL
•
IG LI O N E
•
Tommy Hilfiger
BO
RUE SAI NT- HON ORÉ
EIN
F Le auré Pa ge Ch an el
DEL
•Chanel •Tom FordRUE CA•MBON • • •Jimmy Choo Kilian •Barrie • • Coach • Alexander McQueen Nous • Emporio Armani • Delvaux • David Morris • Omega
RUE D
Dior
•
S
•Le Jacquard •Pucci Français •Chaumet
RUE TRONCHET
•Eres •Swarovski
T H U R IN
LE VILLAGE
ES MA
RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HO
RUE D
RUE SAI NT- HON ORÉ
RINS
Wempe Ralph •Lancaster Lauren •Kate Spade Kenzo • •Max Mara
LA
RUE SAI NT- HON ORÉ
ATHU L ’A R C A
MADELEINE
• •• • ★Marina Rinaldi •
DE
RUE DU MONT-THABOR
DES M
RUE DE
R
LE VILLA GE ROYA L
RD
U E CA ST
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SQUIE RUE PA
Oliver Grant
Vuarnet
’A N J O
Crockett &Jones
Burberry
VA
Messika • Moschino • Chloé • Ports 1961• DsQuared2 • Tumi • Arije J.M. Weston • Buccellati• • Graff R
Janssens & Janssens
ULE
•
• Césaire Atelier Cologne Hublot • Chronopassion • Fendi •
RUE D
•
RUE SAINT-FL ORENTIN
Capel
BO
Valentino •
Jardin des Tuileries
•
RUE
AVE NU E GA BR IEL
U FAU
INE
BOUR
TOR
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D ’A S
•
CONCORDE
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RG
ROQ
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•
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Laulhère Prada Pinko Chanel Gucci Dior
••
RUE ROYALE
• Royal Iro Quartz Zapa • Michael Kors • Mulberry •
La Perla
MANN
RU
SA
B AM
ROQ
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RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS
Lanvin
IL
R D H A U SS
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• Marina
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38 W HE RE Pa r i s I F E B R ua r y 2020
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RU E DE DU RA
•• •
Lanvin
RUE DE RIVOLI
16 rue Royale - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 60 21 77 www.wempe.fr
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Place de la Concorde
Yamamoto
The renowned German watchmaker has been satisfying customers for over 135 years. Featuring a fine selection of stylish jewellery, luxury watches and chronometers.
RU
•Burberry •Brunello Cucinelli Roger Vivier • • Hogan Valentino • • Leonard Paris ★ Heurgon • RUE D’ANJOU Djula • Jitrois • René Caovilla • Saint Laurent Chanel • • Boucheron Tod’s • • Givenchy • Cartier • • Hermès Alessi RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS
• Yohji
WEMPE
MIR
RUE D’AGU ESSEA U
Ch
SHOP STOP
ME
RUE DE SURÈNE
CAPEL
26 blvd Malesherbes - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 66 34 21 / www.capelstore.fr
E ED
•Sotheby’s • Chopard • Poiray Alberta Ferretti• • Christian Louboutin Apostrophe • • Etro • Opera Gallery Frette • Moreau •
SHOP STOP
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IRO
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Élysée Palace RUE DE L’ÉLYSÉE
M DE
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3 rue d’Anjou - Paris 8 (Corner 46 Fbg Saint-Honoré) Tel: +33 (0)1 42 65 04 00 www.janssensparis.com
With a 60-year experience, Capel is the French brand specialised in luxury ready-to-wear for big and tall men. The collections are the perfect blend of French style, perfect fitting, comfort and quality for both business and casual occasions. They also carry selected brands such as Tommy Hilfiger, Cutter&Buck, Paul&Shark and Pal Zileri. Open MonSat 10:30am-7pm.
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Caron
th
MIR
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•
AVENUE DE MARIGNY
RU
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In the very heart of the Faubourg St-Honoré discover more than 3,000 different clothing fabrics, all extraordinary, and many used by haute couture designers. Owner Françoise Janssens can also recommend one of 40 local seamstresses.
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RU
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Pierre Cardin
UE
SS
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Rimowa• Nuun • RUE Azzaro • DU C IRQU Vhernier E • F.P. Journe
JANSSENS & JANSSENS
EN
CA
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AV
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AB
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RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONORÉ
EN
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•Richard Mille Steiger Cifonelli MATIGNON • • AVE NUE MATIGNON Puiforcat Baccarat • AV
NUE
RU
•
MIROMESNIL
• Sothys
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Galeries •Bartoux
RU
RUE DU FBG SAINT-HONORÉ
FRANKLIN D. ROOSEVELT
ES
SHOP STOP
LUXURY MAP
Rue Saint-Honoré / Palais Royal
la Concorde
RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS
INES
APUC
DES C
CIN
RUE
PU ES
RUE DANIELLE CASANOVA
A
• De Fursac
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Acaba •
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Marquise de Laborde
RUE RICHELIEU
RUE RICHELIEU
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Bibliothèque Nationale - Site Richelieu-Louvois
ab
•D id •G ier L
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Palais Royal
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Bonpoint IRO OU
Y’s Yohji Yamamoto
Hartford
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Gerard Darel Kenzo Agatha
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Galerie Véro-Dodat
Christian Louboutin
Place des Victoires
PS
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by Terry Xavier Lust
Aïzea
Galerie Vivienne
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RUE CROI X DES PETI TS CHAM
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Musée du Louvre
RUE VIVIENNE
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RUE DE VALOIS
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RUE DE LA FEUILLADE
RUE DE RIVOLI
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Galerie de Valois
15 Galerie Véro-Dodat - Paris 1st (enter at 19 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau or 2 rue du Bouloi) Tel: +33 (0)1 40 39 01 51 / www.angelacaputi.com
DD
PALAIS ROYAL
Eric Philippe Angela Caputi ★ Il Bisonte
AR
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ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ
EN
’OP
Birkenstock
Galerie de Montpensier
Italian jewellery designer Angela Caputi set up her workshop in Florence in 1975. Her unique high fashion costume jewellery, mixing various materials, colours and textures, is now available at her new boutique in Paris. This collection is extremely sophisticated and could be a special present for each woman.
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RUE DE RIVOLI
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RUE DES PYRAMIDES
•
Printemps du Louvre
AV
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•Cotélac
FreyWille
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OPÉRA Kusmi Tea
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•Paraboot RUE SAINT-ROCH • Verbreuil
•Aésop
SHOP STOP
BO
Place du Marché Saint-Honoré
Opéra Garnier
RUE DES PETITS CHAMPS
29 rue de Richelieu - Paris (1st) Tel: +33 (0)1 72 38 26 68 shop.marquisedelaborde.com
RUE DE LA PA IX
•Pomellato •Baldinini •Moynat •Lyubov • Burma •Stuart Weitzman •Balenciaga • Exemplaire
•Nodus PYRAMIDES •Tous
Vivienne • Westwood
NE
Carrousel du Louvre
ONORÉ
The Kooples •
Maître Parfumeur et Gantier
Vendôme
•Christian Dior •Clergerie
RUE S A IN T -H
Saint Laurent• Chantal Thomass • Penhaligon’s • Peuterey •
LEI
Ami • Missoni• • Kiehl’s•
Manoush
MARQUISE DE LABORDE
Place
ONORÉ
TUILERIES
•
•
RUE S A IN T -H
Church’s• Paule Ka• Paul Smith• Christofle •
Chopard
E
Goyard •
•Dubail
DE
RU E CA ST IG LI ON
• Lipault
RU E CA MB ON • RU E CA MB ON • Tom Ford • • • Balmain Kilian • Nous • Barrie Tommy • Coach • Alexander McQueen Hilfiger • Brioni • Emporio Armani •David Morris •Omega
RUE SAINT- HONOR É
SHOP STOP
T
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•Chanel Chanel
RU E CA MB ON
Moschino• Chloé• Ports • DsQuared2 • Tumi• Arije J.M. • Weston •
•
Marella
MA
R
RUE TRONC HET
•Eres • Swarovski
Église de la Madeleine
LA
Dior U P H O • D
Max&Moi•
14-16 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré - Paris 8th In the courtyard Tel: +33 (0)1 42 65 90 59 www.laulhere-france.com
Marquise de Laborde is a French brand of quality European made children’s fashion for ages 0–14 years old. Soft toys and other gift items complement this collection. The brand also specializes in custom made home linens since 1999. The Old World style shop is very charming with a chic and cosy atmosphere only 5 minutes walk from the Louvre Pyramid entrance.
•Pucci
Hublot • Chronopassion • Djula • Fendi•
MADELEINE
DE
This company has been fashioning authentic French berets in France since 1840. Designated a Living Heritage company, the house uses the finest of materials like pure virgin merino wool for its berets for men and women.
•
RUE SAINT-FLORENTIN
★ Laulhère
Gucci Chanel • • • Dior RUE ROYALE • Wempe • Lancaster • Kate Spade • Furla • Tory Burch •Max Mara
er t
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• Oliver Grant
VD
RUE DE RIVOLI
Jeu de Paume
•Lanvin • La Perla
BL
LAULHÈRE
Jardin des Tuileries
RUE ROYALE Daum- • Haviland Zapa • Michael Kors • Mulberry • Valentino
RUE SAINT-HONORÉ
■
••
CONCORDE
Musée de l’Orangerie
•
Lanvin Sergio Rossi • Carita • Panerai Miu Miu
Burberry
•
u rie dot lle Ge pp
Place de
RUE DU FBG SAINT-HONORÉ
SHOP STOP
RUE DU LOUVR E
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LUXURY MAP
Champs-Élysées - Montaigne
ISTO
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Kenzo
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• Swarovski • GrandOptical • Bulgari
• •
Lacoste • •V Omega• RGE ★ ENUE GEO •Hermès • AV Bvlgari De Grisogono • • Dubail • Zegna Ellie Saab U Stefano Ricci • EA Longchamp • C • • R Creed MA Christofle • RUE UE N E AV • PIERRE Rolex • CHAR Cartier •Givenchy V E Audemars Arije • RON • •Chaumet Dubail • RG GEO Piguet Hublot• Beretta Nike/PSG• Cercle NUE E V A De Fursac Paule Ka • Delacre • ★ Arabian Oud• • Burma RUE Tumi• Sicis • Franck • RUE MARB• EUF •Tom Ford PIER•R Carvil Namani EC HAR • Zilli RUE RON •Balenciaga Kiton DE L Guy Laroche • • A TR J.M. Weston • R • É U MOI By Marie&Gas Bijoux EM • Smalto LLE A Wolford • RBEU Zimmermann •Balmain Berluti F • ALMA MARCEAU • • •Courrèges Maje • • Majestic 38 Valentino Caron Karl Lagerfeld • AVE • Thomas Harry • N UE M Giorgio Armani Pink Winston O Alaïa NAN Prada• • NTAIGN • Brunello • Celine • UE DE MARIG E R Cesare Paciotti Cucinelli• • PSG • Nina Ricci • • Giorgio Armani • • Maison Ullens FRANKLIN Louis Vuitton D.ROOSEVELT • Versace AVE • Salvatore Ferragamo NUE • Akris Chanel Dior • MONT•A Givenchy Fendi • Chanel• IGNE • • • Saint Laurent Dinh Dior• • Céline Loewe• Van •Marni Dior••• Ralph Lauren • Chloé • Gucci
AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES
IS 1 ER
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AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES
RUE FR
DOR
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DU B
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• Marionnaud Paris
Icicle
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Swatch SHINGTO N • Tag Heuer RUE
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Elysées Joaillerie Elysées Shopping Elysées Horlogerie
• •M.A.C. •• •Levi’s •Tissot • Sephora • Guerlain • LE66 Champs-Elysées • Mauboussin • Tiffany RUE
LA B
RUE DE PONTHIEU
SHOP STOP
• Cartier
Montblanc
GEORGE V Louis Vuitton• Apple
•
Armani Emporio
PIER
RE 1 ER DE S
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RUE BALZAC
EA
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•
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• Milady • Etam
ERB
57 rue Pierre Charron – Paris 8th Tel: +33(0)1 56 88 59 59 www.berettagallery.com
UE
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•
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SANO
Hugo Boss
EN
E BAS
JEAN GIRAUDOUX
RUE D
RUE DE CHAI
Beautiful tailored sport and casual wear from the legendary family-owned, Italian house specialised in the world of nature and hunting is found in this gallery boutique. A man and also women can be dressed from head to toes here in this shop akin to a curiosity cabinet where you can find high quality, refined accessories and lovely gift ideas.
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Publicis Drugstore •
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Maison Baccarat
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CHARLES DE GAULLE-ÉTOILE AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES
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BERETTA GALLERY
NA
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RUE G Place des États-Unis
RUE
35 ave George V - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 43 59 15 17 www.icicle.com
NUE
AVE
M NUE
AVENUE DE WAGRAM
DOUX
In search of harmony between humans and nature, ICICLE offers a timeless elegance wardrobe composed of natural materials in a sober palette, designed with care for our environment. Discover our universe and collections in our first Parisian store.
O AVE
RUE JEAN GIRAU
荈 搬 ⛓ 麤
UG
AVENUE KLÉBER
Fabio Caviglia•
N A T U R A L W AY
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ICICLE
Arc de Triomphe
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AVENUE DE LA GRANDE ARMÉE
SHOP STOP
OÉT
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•Chanel • Galeries Lafayette •Dior •
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Zadig & Voltaire
Dammann • • Frères Weleda • Les Champs d’Or Lancel •
•
AVEN
Elie Saab • ROOSEV D.
UE M
FRANKLIN D.ROOSEVELT
LT EVE OOS D.R
Grand Palais
AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES
RU
ALBERT
40 W HE RE Pa r i s I F E B R ua r y 2020
COURS
38 rue François 1er - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 47 20 79 79 www.majestic38.com
NFÉRENCE
Nestled in the new jewel of 735m² and 3 levels, the shop offers the most prestigious brands. Entirely dedicated to luxury, ready-to-wear for men & children, underwear, leather goods & shoes... The Majestic 38 boutique also offers highend jewelery and timepieces.
PORT DE LA CO
MAJESTIC 38
Jil Sander
•Adidas
ATIG
NON
LUXURY MAP Vendôme
Gare Saint-Lazare
SHOP STOP
TRINITÉ D’ESTIENNE D’ORVES
SAINT-LAZARE RUE DU HAVR E
RUE SAINT-LAZARE
Passage du Havre
Printemps BeautéMaison-Enfant
BOU
ARD HAU Lafayette SSM ANN Maison&Gourmet
INS
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VIGN
•
ARTI RUE
Exaltation I
AR D VI
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•
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Rossignol
RU
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Bally Hackett Omega
• BOULEVARD DES ITALIENS •Maty
•
BOULEVARD DES CAPUCINES
• • • IKKS
•Gant • •
Tommy Hilfiger
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A. Lange & Söhne Marvella • • • Repetto Dunhill Poiray • Guerin N H C O Corthay U B Y • ED Cartier AM RU • OLNE Piaget • • Christofle • Diesel EC V RU Hugo Boss E TTF • Maître Parfumeur Lery RU Jimmy Choo Panerai • A I X • et Gantier ★ P •Dinh Van • IWC Alexander McQueen •Fred • DE LA Goralska • Van Cleef • Cartier E • Emporio Armani U & Arpels R • Jaquet Droz Dubail • Anshindo • •Glasshütte Bvlgari • Damiani Miki • •Vacheron •• Constantin • House • Tasaki• • De Fursac • Gas Bijoux • Omega Qeelin • Rolex • • Boucheron RUE • DA Van Cleef NIE DsQuared2 • • Desigual • Jaeger-• Place Vendôme • & Arpels LLE CA LeCoultre Tumi • SA • Blancpain NO VA • Chanel RU J.M. Weston • Chopard EG • Piaget O M Buccellati • BO • • US •Hublot Breguet Graff • T RU •Patek Philippe • Zadig & ED Place du Marché Freywille • • Dior ES Voltaire PE Saint-Honoré TIT Meyrowitz • Louis Vuitton • S-C • HA Goyard Akillis MP • S Pomellato • RU Marni• Moynat ★ • ED H.Stern UM Balenciaga Acaba • • ON • Arije Paule Ka T-T HA • BO • Heschung PYRAMIDES RU R ET • • Dodo • Jovoy HÉ Missoni RÈ •Christian Dior SE • Frank Namani • Ecco •Clergerie EVA
AVENUE DE L’OPÉRA
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FreyWille •
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• Astier de Villatte
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•Maison Kitsuné
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Sarah Lavoine •
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Penhaligon’s • Fragonard•
AVENUE DE L’OPÉRA
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41 rue des Petits Champs - Paris 1st Tel: +33 (0)1 71 72 96 45 / www.acaba.fr
IN
GL
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ACABA At ACABA Gantier, Claire Gros helps you find the gloves that will suit you best. Design, lining, color, leather, all of this can has been combined for the best fit and pleasure. Come and try classy driving gloves, golf, horse-riding, hunting gloves... or any unlined one, to match your outfit. A real glove experience you will love. In a wood, leather and copper designed shop, take time to become a glove addict !
LA
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SHOP STOP
• Sephora
L’Occitane • Max&Moi Golfino OPÉRA • Loding Bucherer • Camper Tag Heuer Montblanc • Lancel
ES
40 boulevard Haussmann – Paris 9th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 82 36 40 haussmann.galerieslafayette.com
AIN
• J.M. Weston
GE
•
Etam
RU
Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann offers a large selection of items in every segment, from fashion to accessories, beauty, interior decoration and fine food. Located in the heart of Paris nearby the Opera, the 70,000 square-meter flagship store, symbol of the Parisian elegance, offers more than 3,500 brands from affordable to the most prestigious references.
BOULEVARD DE LA MADELEINE OR
INS
Fragonard
Mario Dessuti•
Église de la Madeleine
E T-G
Opéra Garnier
CAUM
RUE
MADELEINE
GALERIES LAFAYETTE PARIS HAUSSMANN
CHAUSSÉE D’ANTIN - LA FAYETTE
Uniqlo •
RUE BOUDREA U
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Sabre • Paraboot•
HUR
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SHOP STOP
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Galeries Lafayette Coupole
GR
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Galeries Lafayette Homme
RU E JO UB ER
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L’A
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HAVRE-CAUMARTIN
RU
9 rue de la Paix – Paris 2 Tel: +33 (0)1 40 20 96 18 www.ttf.fr
nd
•
Guerlain •
ON
The TTF high jewellery house presents its universe of poetic, or contemporary, jewellery and high jewellery in the precious and cosy microcosm of its Parisian boutique with its golden and champagne colours. You can enter to discover the collections or by appointment for the exceptional pieces or to create your own jewel.
RUE DE
ADOR
Printemps HommePrintemps du Goût
VICTOIRE
MOG
TTF
E D E LA
Printemps R U R U E JO U B ER Femme T
RUE MOG ADOR
Galeries du Diamant •
Redline •
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LUXURY MAP
Saint-Germain SHOP STOP
E AU V
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Karl Lagerfeld
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RU E DE SEI NE
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DU ES AIN T-P
Jardins du Luxembourg
L AC
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SAINT-PLACIDE
RUE DE L’ODÉON
RU E DE CO ND É
RUE DE SEINE
RUE DE TOURNON
RUE SERVANDONI
Église Saint-Sulpice
RUE FÉROU
RUE MAD AME
RUE
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RUE MÉZ IÉR ES
RU E BO NA PA RT E
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RUE DES CANETTES
RUE BON APAR TE
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BOULEV
RU
RUE PRI NCE SSE
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RUE MA DAM E
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RUE DE LA CH
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• La Martina
RUE DE TOURNON
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GR
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BOULEV
LEICA
RUE MA BIL LON
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Dice Kayek Poiray • Liu Jo BO ★ Christian ULE • • RUE Gant VA R U CI Louboutin Stella • DE L Louis RUE DE B D • ’A B SAI • Luna Etro • • Agent Vuitton B AY NTCamper E Provocateur GER •• • Repeat MA • Cashmere Chaumet IN Paul Smith Ralph Hugo Boss SAINT-GERMAIN Voyeurs • • Ines de la Fressange Lauren Emporio• DES-PRÉS • Armani Maison• BOU • Lejaby • L E • De Fursac VA R L.K. • Y’s D SA • Céline Bennett INTGER Ferragamo Rolex• MAI • Dinh Van Carven • MABILLON N Crockett & Jones • • Montblanc • • Ecco Kenzo • Paraboot • • J.M. Weston Saint Laurent• Gas Bijoux ODEON L’Ibis Rouge • Eskandar • OUR • DU F Liu Jo • RUE Sportmax• Prada • Marina • Tod’s Rinaldi Justine Red • U FOUR Sabre Alain Mikli • • La Perla• D • Durance •NTS RUE Petrusse Le Jacquard RUE GUISARDE Repetto M.A.C.• • • TRE VE Français ★ Doré Doré • S QUA E Omega D E RU Berluti • VRES • • • RUE DE SÉ • RUE DE BABYLONE Agnès b Saint Laurent Lancaster • Longines Camper • • RUE SAINT-SULPICE Capel Frey Wille • SÉVRES-BABYLONE Tumi • •Maje Eres• • Hermès • ULPICE SAINT-SULPICE Zadig Leica RUE ST-S • IUNX ★ Le Bon Loxwood & Voltaire Parfums ES R V • Marché S É E Il Bisonte D • •
• L’Occitane • Lacoste
42 W HE RE Pa r i s I F E B R ua r y 2020
A PA R
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• John Lobb Bang SA I N • & Olufsen Edward Green • T-G Roche Bobois• ER MA Cinna • IN Aubercy •
E
13 rue du Cherche-Midi - Paris 6th Tel: +33 (0)1 88 83 60 60 www.leica-camera.com
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Institut de France
BON
IVE
IL
SAIN
RÉ R
NEU
DES
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•Silvera
R U • Guerlain • Wolford
A new Parisian setting to discover our fine line of cameras and binoculars. A certain art of living, French-style, that corresponds perfectly with the culture and vision of Leica for an immersive experience into the brand’s realm.
RE
RUE
E AU N RUE
DE
CAR
Poltrona Frau
BOULEV
SHOP STOP
RUE
• Cassina
•
15 rue Saint-Benoît - Paris 6th Tel: +33 (0)1 43 22 41 76 / www.dicekayek.com
LE
LTA I
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Deyrolle•
Victorinox
DICE KAYEK
•
Maje • Atelier Cologne • Hartwood • Kujten • Gérard • Darel
LIL
GAU
VO
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ITÉ
DE B
RS
RUE DU BAC B O U
Launched in June 2019, the first Dice Kayek flagship boutique opened its doors in the heart of the historic cafes and shopping district of the 6th arrondissement. The new space showcases the full range of Dice Kayek ready to wear, exclusive couture pieces, shoes and accessories. Dice Kayek is the must-have brand for so many celebrities, as Yang Mi, Yang Ying (Angelababy), Liu Tao, Celine Dion, Naomi Campbell to name a few.
RUE
AC IVE
Sarah Lavoine •
SHOP STOP
DE
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AI
BA
46 boulevard Raspail, Paris 7 Tel: +33 (0)1 42 22 36 28 www.petrusse.com
th
L’ U N
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The soul of the Petrusse House is deeply artistic, with excellence at the core; from the design studio located in the vineyard of Bordeaux to the finishing touches workshop, dedicated focus on the responsible manufacturing process, all in all with traditional and innovative know-how.
ED E
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PETRUSSE
CAR RUE
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Musée d’Orsay
LUXURY MAP Le Marais
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VIEIL
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CALV S DU F IL L E DES
RU E CH AR LO
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RU E DE CA FF
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Merci • Ami • SAINT-SÉBASTIEN Sandro• FROISSART
NT A
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• • Momoni Louis Quatorze Nice • •
LE DU
HA
RUE CHA RLO T
RC
CH AR LO T
•
MA
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APC
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RUE DES ARC HIV ES
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RUE DU TEMPLE
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Centre Pompidou
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• Kitsune • Soeur Bonton•
Jack Gomme • A I N T S R
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Wooyoungmi
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Musée National Picasso
PE RL E RU E DU PA
• Wolford
RUE SA
RC RO YA L
IN T -G IL
VI GN É RU E SÉ
VIEIL
RUE PAY ENN E
RUE
Fred P Le C erry reus et
52 rue de Rivoli - Paris 4th Tel: +33 (0)9 77 401 400 www.lebhvmarais.fr
REN
RU E SA IN T-B
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RU E SA IN
R IV O LI
PONT MARIE
AR TIN RUE DES ARCT-M HIV ES
RUE SAI NT-
RUE DU FAUCONNIER
LAM EL
RU E NIC OLA S-F
RUE GEOFFROY L'ASNIER
RUE DU PONT LOUIS- PHILIPPE
RUE DE LOBAU
MAR TIN
NES
R
RUE PAVEE
LHE
RUE VIEILLE DU TEMPLE
RUE DE TURENNE
V IG N É RUE SÉ
RUE DU TEMPLE
Place des Vosges
Camper Swatch
MAC
MA
LE BHV MARAIS More than just a department store: a fabulous lifestyle with its totally unique atmosphere where style rules. Its flair is reflected on every floor of our store at 52 rue de Rivoli, where you’ll find everything you need from fashion, to decorating, beauty to home improvement, leisure activities and more !
LES
Perry •FredRUE BARBETTE • Jamin Puech Manoush • Musée Cognacq-Jay • Aesol ■ Hartford ➞ • Marionnaud Paris Guerlain RUE DES FR ANCS BOUR Penhaligon’s • Chanel GEOIS • Esteban Diptyque Musée Carnavalet • Pandora • Fragonard • ■ RUE DES FR Arche Repetto • • ANCS BOUR• • Ted Baker Mademoiselle • GEOIS • •Jeanne • ➞ • • Iro • Sandro Michael Essentiel • • • • • Kors Uniqlo Aubade Marie Sixtine • Lancel • J.M. Weston Eres Ekyog• •TEA RUE DES BLA NCS MAN UX • • • IZIPIZI Bimba y Lola • Maje Soeur• •Birkenstock Créa • • R U E D ES • Cos Lipault R O SI ER Dinh Van • • Heschung• S • Thomas RUE DU PLATRE • • El Ganso • Gavilane RUE DE JARENTE Sabo Sandro• Moscot Etam • • RUE STE CROIX DE LA BRETONNERIE •Carven •Marc Jacobs • Mode en Lacoste • Fleux RUE D'ORMESSON demeure Karl ★ Gucci • •Maje Crockett Lagerfeld• • DU ROI DE SICILE Moncler • RUE & Jones Chevignon• BHV Homme TO IN E AN TIN • RU E SA RUE DE LA VERRERI E Paraboot MX • SAINT-PAUL • UE DE RIVOLI R • Finsbury I L • IVO Sentou Le BHV Marais RUE DE LA VERRERIE À l'Olivier RUE DE R • I L O ★ IV Besides R E RUE D RU E DE S HA UD RI Kimchi MIRON • Tourist Office OIS ★AETRLTEEMSAGNE FRANÇ HOTEL DE VILLE R U ER UCEHP ER N Pierre Boisset • E EL LE U R Village Saint Paul ■ • Psyché ■ Mémorial de la Shoah Papier+ • Bénédikt Aïchelé Joaillier • • Yoroppa • Calligrane RUE DE RUE
SHOP STOP
Maison
White Bird•
RUE D
• Hugo Boss Perús • • APC
Magnanni •
Mi-Mai •
• Betjman & Barton • Moulin Roty
RE
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16 rue du Bourg-Tibourg - Paris 4th Tel: +33 (0)9 67 82 84 30 www.crockettandjones.com
•
AI
UR E T E D
CROCKETT & JONES A reference for 140 years among Goodyear welted shoe lovers, the English luxury brand renews its vows to exceptional shoemaking and highlights its skillful craftsmanship with the 140th Anniversary Collection, a unique selection on styles crafted with the utmost attention to detail. The elegant, easy shoe Magee is available in the neat Dark Brown Antique Calf.
Nicolaï
LV
RU
Balibaris
FI LS
CA
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• Things Vanessa •Mr • Bonastre • Bruno • Zapa
RU E DE S 4
ME
RUE
DU
T O IS S A R RUE FR • de Cuisse grenouille
• Oska • • French Trotters
Camper Briston • E•P O IT O U
Eclectic
ES
EA
Le Slip Français
E
SHOP STOP
ILL
RU
•
Mes Demoiselles •
ENN
• • RUE PASTOURELLE
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Charlie Paul Smith Paris
ND
• Ron Dorff
E E D
7 rue Saint-Martin - Paris (4th) Tel: +33 (0)1 42 77 23 68 www.besideskimchi.com
AG NE
ED
RU
RU E DE BR ET
RU
Liquides• E N O Bellerose • RMA
Empreintes
SF
FILLES DU CALVAIRE
E
•
RU E PE RR ÉE
La Boutique Extraordinaire •
DE
ENN
The Broken Arm
BESIDES KIMCHI Located at 5 minutes from the Pompidou Centre or the Hotel de Ville, Besides Kimchi is a Parisian concept store specialised in Korean fashion and cosmetics. We offer a large selection of Korean designers and brands from "Chic" to "Street Wear", and a large choice of cosmetics and sheet masks.
TUR
RUE DU TEMPLE
E E D
Carreau du Temple ■
D
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UAR
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THO
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BV
SHOP STOP
RUE DE L’HOTEL DE VILLE QUAI DES CÉLESTINS
w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 43
The Guide
arts& attractions By Patricia Valicenti
Discover some of the 600 artists showcasing their works at the Salon des Artistes Français (page 47) 44 W HE RE Pa r i s I F E B R UAR Y 2020
FRT PHOTO - ROULLET, Frédéric, Head back, photographie numérique impression papier Tecco Fine Art 295g, 80x80, 2019
Galleries | Monuments | Museums | Exhibits | Day Trips | Boat Trips | Guided Tours
arts&attractions
Thomas Gainsborough, Gainsborough Dupont vers 1770-1775 Huile sur toile, Tate : légué par Lady d’Abernon en 1954 © Tate, London, 2019; Hans Hartung, Sans titre, 1940, Gouache sur papier, Fondation Hartung-Bergman, Antibes © ADAGP, Paris, 2019 Photo : Fondation Hartung-Bergman
Exhibitions
A Golden Age Masterpieces of English painting are being showcased at the Musée du Luxembourg in an exhibition entitled The Golden Age of English Painting from Reynolds to Turner, Masterpieces of the Tate Britain. The 1760s at the start of the reign of George III marked a turning point in British art with the arrival on the scene of two master portrait artists of the 18th century, Joshua Reynolds and Thomas Gainsborough, which saw the founding of the Royal Academy of Arts. The first part of the show juxtaposes their works before demonstrating how these two artists left an influence on an entire generation of artists who were drawn to the new Royal Academy, notably John Hoppner, William Beechey and Thomas Lawrence. The show also explores the themes that were in vogue at the time like lineage, family and the home in both the portrait and genre painting, while another section highlights the presence of Great Britain in the Caribbean and India. - P.V. Showing through to February 16th 19 rue de Vaugirard (6th), 01 46 34 31 19
Hartung, the Harbinger Experimentation was at the heart of the immense body of work produced by one of the major 20th century artists, Hans Hartung, and this great experiment is the object of a retrospective devoted to the artist at the Musée d’Art Moderne of Paris. The show, entitled Hans Hartung, La Fabrique du Geste (the gesture factory) brings together some 300 works and takes a look at the essential role he played in art history. The show offers a discovery of the diversity of the mediums in which he worked, the wealth of his techniques and the array of tools he used during six decades of artistic production. Born in Leipzig in 1904, he is considered as one of the leaders of Abstract painting. He died in Antibes in the south of France on December 7th, 1989, his last painting T1989-R10 is dated November 16th of that same year. - P.V. Showing through to March 1st 11 ave du Président Wilson (16th), 01 53 67 40 00 w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 45
arts&attractions
Giordano, the Glorious The lustrous and abundant world of Neapolitan painting of the 17th century is unfolding in a retrospective at the Petit Palais devoted to Luca Giordano, regarded as one of the most brilliant artists of the Seicento. The show brings together some 90 works including monumental paintings and drawings that have been brought together through exceptional loans from the Museum of Capodimonte in Naples, the major churches of the city of Naples and European institutions, notably the Prado. The artist, who lived in Spain for a decade, was known throughout the Italian peninsula in his lifetime and was regularly commissioned to paint, and paint he did, creating some 5000 paintings and ensembles of frescoes. His immense compositions are dramatic, complex, putting saints on centre stage like the patron saint of the city of Naples San Gennaro liberating Naples from the plague or the crucifixion of Saint Peter. - P.V. Showing through to February 23rd Avenue Winston Churchill (8th), 01 53 43 40 00
Olwen Forest JEWELLERY of thE StaRS Olwen Forest, a woman of vision, invites you to see her collection of vintage artist jewellery worn yesterday, and sought after today by famous stars and celebrities. COCO Chanel, SChiaparelli, JOSeFF OF hOllywOOd, hermèS Gentlemen will be dazzled by the extremely rare cocktail accessories from the 1930s. Marché Serpette allée 3, stand 5/6/7 110 rue des rosiers, 93400 St-Ouen Metro: porte de clignancourt
Saturday, Sunday, MOnday
Tel: +33 (0)1 40 11 96 38 www.olwenforest.com 46 W HE RE Pa r i s I F E B R UAR Y 2020
Luca Giordano, Polyphème et Galatée [Polifemo e Galatea], 1674-1675, Huile sur toile, 127 x 250 cm. Naples, Museo e Real Bosco di Capodimonte © Photo Ministero per i beni e le attivita culturali/Museo e Real Bosco di Capodimonte
Exhibitions
arts&attractions
ROCHET CANDAU, Blanche, Antinoos Le Bel Aimé, acrylique, 95x120cm, 2019; Jean Cocteau, Un projet du timbre-poste de la Marianne de Cocteau, dessin sur papier : crayon, encre et feutre, 1960-1961 © Adagp / ComitéCocteau, Paris, 2019 © Musée de La Poste - La Poste / Thierry Débonnaire, 2019
Exhibitions
A Fair from France An exceptional, historical art fair is being played out this month beneath the glass dome of the Grand Palais. The Salon des Artistes Français is being held for the 230th time this year since its creation by Colbert for Louis XIV. The show brings together some 600 contemporary artists from France and abroad working in diverse mediums, ranging from painting to sculpture, engraving, architecture and photography. To mark this anniversary show, a special exhibition devoted to three centuries of the event’s archives is being held featuring a host of documents including catalogues, photographs and old posters. This year the guest of honour is the Republic of Georgia represented by some of the country’s best-known artists. - P.V. Showing from February 12th through to February 16th, from 11am to 8pm, until 9pm on the 13th and the 15th. 3 ave Général Eisenhower (8th), 01 44 54 52 44
Do You Have a Letter for Me? The Musée de la Poste, the museum devoted to the French postal service, re-opened to the public last November after a major renovation to showcase its vast collection of objects and documents related to the French postal system, which has been in existence since 1477. A glass column 20 metres high and seven metres wide enclosing various modes of transportation used by the post office, including a horse-drawn carriage, a basket for a hot air balloon, and a dug-out canoe used for mail delivery in French Guyana, greets the visitor upon arrival. The immense collections of the institution unfold over three floors exploring the modes of mail transportation ranging from the horse to the drone, the various professions linked to mail delivery and the art of stamp making, a specialty of the French post office. The museum possesses all of the stamps issued by the French post office since 1849 as well as the tools used in their fashioning. - P.V. 34 blvd de Vaugirard (15th), 01 42 79 24 24 w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 47
arts&attractions Exhibitions
Hearts The museum devoted to the romantic life, the Musée de la Vie Romantique, is hosting an exhibition devoted to hearts in contemporary artwork, opening up on Saint Valentine’s Day. Entitled Hearts, from Romanticism to Contemporary Art, the show brings together an eclectic selection of 40 works by 30 contemporary artists revolving around the representation of the heart as the expression of the sentiment of love, in resonance with one of the leading themes of the Romantic era. The heart, as an organ, a motif and a symbol, is presented in diverse mediums ranging from painting, drawing, sculpture, ceramics, neon and photography. The exhibition unfolds throughout the museum and into the garden and is juxtaposed with the museum’s permanent collections devoted to the Romantic era. Works by Niki de Saint Phalle, Jim Dine, Annette Messager, Sophie Calle, Pierre et Gilles, Jean-Michel Othoniel and Françoise Pétrovitch, among others are on display. - P.V.
A Thousand and One Orchids and More The fascinating world of orchids is emerging in the tropical greenhouse of the Jardin des Plantes, the botanical gardens, as thousands of orchids come into view amongst the tropical flora. The museum possesses an extensive collection of both wild and cultivated orchids and ensures the conservation of this living collection notably through in vitro cultivation. This year the botanical gardens of the City of Paris, Les Serres d’Auteuil, is participating in the event/ exhibition by revealing rare specimens emanating from its extraordinary and secret collection while four French orchid growers will present their collections in specially staged settings inside the greenhouse. Experts from three French orchid associations will be on hand inside the exhibition to answer questions and give visitors tips on orchid collecting and cultivation. - P.V. Showing from February 5th through to March 2nd 57 rue Cuvier (5th), 01 40 79 56 01 48 W HE RE Pa r i s I F E B R UAR Y 2020
Jean-Michel Othoniel, Kokoro, 2012, Aquarelle sur papier 26 x 36 cm. Collection privée, Othoniel Studio; Photo Mille1Orchidées © F-G Grandin MNHN
Showing from February 14th through to July 12th 16 rue Chaptal (9th), 01 55 31 95 67
ADVERTORIAL
Galerie Taménaga Founded in 1969 by Kiyoshi Taménaga in Tokyo, the Galerie Taménaga successively opened up two additional venues in Osaka and in Paris in 1971. The Galerie Taménaga would become the first Japanese art gallery specialised in the Western masters. In this respect it has in its collection many masterpieces by the Impressionists and the Modern artists like Bonnard, Chagall, Derain, Dufy, Picasso, Redon, Renoir, Utrillo, Van Dongen and so forth. Located on the prestigious Avenue Matignon, the Galerie Taménaga is equally devoted to the discovery of and supporting contemporary artists who are recognised today: Chen JiangHong, Takehiko Sugawara, Kyosuke Tchinaï, Tamihito Yoshikawa, and as well the American Tom Christopher or the Spaniard Lorenzo Fernandez.
18 Avenue Matignon, 75008 Paris – +33 (0)1 42 66 61 94 galerie@tamenaga.fr – www.tamenaga.com Ta m i h i t o YO S H I K AWA , M a t u r i t é -
91 x 73 cm
Le Salon des Artistes Français >GRAND PALAIS >DU 12 AU 16 FÉVRIER 2020
230 éme édition depuis Colbert www.artistes-francais.com
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arts&attractions Passageways
Galerie Vivienne
The picturesque passageways of Paris offer an offbeat promenade in the Parisian capital. Alternatively named “passage” or “galerie”, they are “covered” with glass roofs, which prompt the light to vary depending upon the weather, time of day and time of year. The passages were essentially constructed during two relatively brief time periods, the first from 1823 to 1828, and a second phase from 1839 to 1847. They reached their peak during the Restoration (1814-1830). Some 20 covered passageways remain today in Paris, architectural treasures of glass, steel and some fabulous décor. Within, one can find diverse boutiques, restaurants and even a museum.
Galerie Colbert This passageway, for which construction began in 1826, is worth a visit for its splendid architecture, which includes a rotunda and a spectacular glass cupola. This passageway, particularly its rotunda would inspire architects throughout Europe in the 19th century. 4 rue Vivienne/6 rue des Petits-Champs (2nd). M° Bourse
Galerie de la Madeleine This passageway coincides with the place of the same name and its church, La Madeleine. It was opened in 1845 and two superb caryatides by the French sculptor Klagman frame its main entrance. 9 Place de la Madeleine/30 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th). M° Madeleine
Built in 1828 as a long covered promenade to avoid bad weather and heavy traffic, this passageway was restored and today its beautiful frescoes and friezes can be appreciated along with the splendid mirrors that adorn the tympanums. 120 rue Saint-Denis/3 rue de Palestro (2nd). M° Réaumur-Sébastopol
Passage du Caire This passageway, which opened in 1799, owes its name, which means Cairo in French, to the decorations on its splendid facade, three representations of the Egyptian goddess Hathor. 2 Place du Caire/16 rue du Caire/239 rue Saint-Denis (2nd). M° Sentier 50 W HE RE Pa r i s I F E B R UAR Y 2020
Passage des Panoramas This passageway, which dates back to 1799, built outside of the peak in passageway construction, is one of the oldest of the city’s passageways and has been welcoming pedestrians for over two centuries now. It will snake you under cover from the Boulevard Montmartre to Rue Saint-Marc and along the way you’ll cross over the Galerie des Variétés, the Galeries Montmartre, Feydeau and Saint-Marc. 10 rue St-Marc/11 blvd Montmartre (2nd). M° Richelieu-Drouot
Photos. © Paris Tourist Office - Marc Bertrand
Passage du Bourg-L’AbbE
Galerie VEro-Dodat This passageway is regarded as one of the most beautiful in Paris with its resplendent double marble columns that have retained their mirrors, gilt trims, splendid ceilings and a fine black and white tiled marble floor. Beautifully restored in 1997, this passageway offers the visitor a journey into the Belle Epoque. 19 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau/Rue du Bouloi (1st). M° Louvre
Passage Choiseul Built circa 1825, this passageway with its main thoroughfare measuring 190 meters in length is one of the longest in Paris. Its history is intimately linked with the theatre as it neighbours two of the most celebrated in the French capital, the Opéra Comique and the Bouffes Parisiens, the theatre of Jacques Offenbach. 40 rue des Petits Champs/23 rue Saint Augustin (2nd). M° Quatre-Septembre
Passage des Princes Originally called the Passage Mirès when it opened in 1860, this passageway was restructured and rebuilt between 1992 and 1994, although its fine cupola dating from 1930 remains. 5 blvd des Italiens/97 rue de Richelieu (2nd). M° Richelieu-Drouot
Passage Jouffroy
Passage Verdeau The high glass rooftop of this passageway makes it one of the most light-filled in the French capital. A prolongation of the Passages Jouffroy and Panoramas, it was opened in 1846. 6 rue de la Grange Batelière/31bis rue du Faubourg Montmartre (9th). M° Richelieu-Drouot
Galerie Vivienne Inaugurated in 1826, this passageway is strategically situated near the Bourse (the stock exchange), the Bank of France and the Palais Royal and has a décor influenced by Pompeii and Herculaneum. It has two splendid caryatides, which decorate the Rue des Petits-Champs entrance, and a spectacular mosaic by Faccina, the 19th century Italian mosaic artist. 4 rue des Petits-Champs/5 rue de la Banque/6 rue Vivienne (2nd). M° Bourse
Built in 1847, this passageway is one of the city’s younger passageways and is named for its architect M. Jouffroy, the son of the Marquis Jouffroy d’Abbans. Inside one finds the spectacular wax museum, the Musée Grévin, replete with its Hall of Mirrors and where French and international personalities await the visitor. 10-12 blvd Montmartre/9 rue de la Grande-Batelière (9th). M° Richelieu-Drouot
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arts&attractions Monuments
EIFFEL TOWER
LA CONCIERGERIE A medieval royal residence with Gothic halls, used as a prison in the Revolution. Daily 9:30am-6pm, times may vary, last tickets, 30 minutes before closing time. Adults 9€, Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26, free. 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 80. M° Cité 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 80. M° Cité
PALAIS GARNIER OPERA DE PARIS Designed by architect Charles Garnier, and a brilliant example of Second Empire architecture. Daily visits on your own, 10am-4:30pm (adults 14€, students and under 25, 10€) information: 08 92 89 90 90. Guided tours in English daily at 11am and 2:30pm (15.50€). For additional information on guided tours call 08 25 05 44 05. Through to February 2nd, Le Grand Opéra, an exhibition that explores the opera house’s grandiose period in France in the 19th century. Place de l’Opéra (9th). M° Opéra 52 W HE RE Pa r i s I F E B R UAR Y 2020
PANTHEON An 18th-century monument combining Greek and Gothic architecture, where Voltaire, Rousseau, Marie Curie and other notables are buried. Jan-March & Oct-Dec 10am-6pm; Apr-Sept 10am-6:30pm, last tickets 45 minutes before closing. 11.50€. Free for children under 18 and EU citizens under 26. www.paris-pantheon.fr 6 Place du Panthéon (5th), 01 44 32 18 00 M° Cardinal-Lemoine
Photos iStock 2019 : Panthéon © Vitaly Edush; Arc de Triomphe © demirozyurt; La Conciergerie © Vitaly Edush; Eiffel Tower © Neirfy
Built as a temporary exhibit for the 1889 World’s Fair, the iron Built as a temporary exhibit for the 1889 World’s Fair, the iron structure now symbolises Paris the world over. The tower sparkles with twinkling lights every hour on the hour from twilight to 2am. Through to March 31 an ephemeral and functioning winery has been installed on the first floor by the Winerie Parisienne. From Jun 15 through Sept 1 9am-12:45am (stairs and lifts, last admission stairs, last lift midnight). From Sept 2 through Jun 14 lift open daily 9:30am-11:00pm, From Sept 2 through Jun 14 stairs open daily 9:30am-6:30pm. Last entries 45 minutes before closing. Entry fee (10.20-25.50€ for adults) depends on how high you go. There is a glass floor on the first floor 57 metres above Paris and a champagne bar is on the top of the tower, open from 12 to 10pm. www. tour-eiffel.fr Ave Gustave Eiffel (7th), 01 44 11 23 23 M° Bir-Hakeim
ARC DE TRIOMPHE The triumphal arch commissioned by Napoleon and finished in 1836 stands in the centre of the Place Charles de Gaulle and boasts a fabulous view of the Champs-Elysées and includes the tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Visit the interactive exhibit on the history surrounding the Arch. Open daily 10am-10:30pm, times may vary, last admission 45 minutes before closing, Adults 13€, Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26: Free. www.paris-arc-de-triomphe.fr Place Charles de Gaulle (8th), 01 55 37 73 77 M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile
SACRE COEUR DE MONTMARTRE Located on the highest peak of Paris, the view from the Sacré Coeur is breath-taking. There is a guesthouse for pilgrims providing accommodation and meals. Daily 6am-10:30pm; Dome 8:30am-8pm. www.sacre-coeur-montmartre.fr 35 rue du Chevalier-de-la-Barre (18th), 01 53 41 89 09. M° Anvers
LUXEMBOURG GARDEN
SAINTE CHAPELLE
This lovely garden with tranquil walkways, superb greenery, fruit trees, a rose garden and statues offers a host of activities for children and adults. It is split into French gardens and English gardens with a geometric forest and large pond between the two. Rue de Médicis/Rue de Vaugirard (6th), 01 42 64 33 99. M° Odéon
A jewel-like chapel on the Ile de la Cité in the courtyard of the Palais de Justice with High Gothic stained glass windows, at its finest on days when there isn’t a cloud in the sky. Jan-Mar 9am-5pm; Apr-Sept 9am-7pm; Oct-Dec 9am-5pm, last tickets 30 minutes before closing time. 10€. Combined ticket with La Conciergerie 15€. Free for children under 18 and EU citizens under 26. www.sainte-chapelle.fr 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 97. M° Cité
PONT DES ARTS This pedestrian bridge offers some of the finest views of Paris’s monuments including the Notre Dame, the Ile de la Cité and the Louvre. Built in 1803, it was the first bridge in the city to be constructed in cast iron and is frequented by artists and musicians. Access in front of the Institut de France on the Quai de Conti (6th) and Quai François Mitterrand (1st).
THE TUILERIES GARDEN PLACE DES VOSGES One of the oldest squares in the French capital, this beautiful architectural ensemble is a historic monument with a lovely green space surrounded by red brick buildings with blue slate roofs. Shops, galleries and delightful cafés and boutiques line the sides of the square. Place des Vosges (4th). M° Chemin Vert
This vast park filled with peaceful wide alleyways for strolling and an octagonal water basin offers a place for a promenade between the Pyramide du Louvre and the Place de la Concorde. Sculptures by Maillol, Rodin, Dubuffet and Louise Bourgeois are among the jewels set in these refreshing gardens. Place de la Concorde (1st). M° Concorde w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 53
Address Book
arts&attractions
Find all these listings and more at parismap.fr areas & marKets
PARIS
Paris Flea Market Also known as the Puces de Saint-Ouen or Clignancourt from its location north of Montmartre, this is the city’s largest and most famous flea market, offering everything from used books and leather jackets to precious antique jewellery and Louis XVI furniture, in a series of different markets. Don’t be put off by the rows of tacky stands under the overpass; the real Flea Market lies beyond them. Sat-Mon 9:30 am-6:30pm. 142 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen.
Carré Rive Gauche This group of antique dealers and art galleries in the 6th and 7th arrondissements presents fine works, special exhibitions and exceptional pieces throughout the year. Many of the galleries are specialised in the decorative arts while the venues offer visitors a journey into 7,000 years of art history. Located on the Left Bank on and around the Quai Voltaire, rue de l’Université, rue du Bac, rue de Verneuil, rue de Lille, rue de Beaune and rue des Saints-Pères (7th)
art galleries Galerie Bartoux Elysées A contemporary art gallery on the ChampsElysées presenting paintings and sculptures by internationally renowned artists. Open seven days a week. 5 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.66.36.63. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt
Galerie Olwen Forest Gallery exhibiting vintage costume, couture jewels and Art Deco crystal jewellery, as well as jewells created by designers such as Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel. Jewellery made for the cinema and a selection of vintage jewels telling the story of rock and roll. Permanent exhibition Erotica/ Exotica, featuring vintage pieces juxtaposing the two themes. From Sat-Mon. St-Ouen Flea Market, Marché Serpette, 110 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen. 01.40.11.96.38. Metro: Porte de Clignancourt
Galerie Tamenaga Impressionist and modern paintings by masters including Bonnard, Cézanne, Chagall, Picasso, Renoir, as well as contemporary international artists such as Chen Jiang-Hong, Takehiko Sugawara or Kyosuke Tchinaï. Open Mon to Sat: 11am-1pm/2pm-7pm. 18 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.66.61.94. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt
IS ONLY A CLICK AWAY www.parismap.fr SCAN TO DISCOVER!
several million Parisians whose bones were transferred to these underground quarries from Parisian cemeteries in the 18th and 19th centuries. The visit is not recommended for pregnant women, people with heart or respiratory problems or suffering from claustrophobia and children under 14 must be accompanied by adults. The 2 km one-way visit ends at 21bis ave René Coty (14th). Tues-Sun 10am-8:30pm. 1 ave du Colonel Henri Roi-Tanguy (place Denfert-Rochereau) (14th). Metro: Denfert-Rochereau
Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie Situated in the heart of La Villette Park, the science and industry museum houses a wide number of activities and exhibitions. Tues-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 10am-7pm. 30 ave Corentin Cariou (19th), 01.40.05.80.00. Metro: Porte de la Villette
Disneyland Paris DIGITAL MAP
and Picasso, and a selection of contemporary artists: Brasilier, Corda, Mach, Kusama and Joe Black. Art pieces exhibited in a gallery space ideally situated in the Triangle d’Or. Open Mon to Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun and public holidays 11:30am-7pm. 62 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.96.39.00. Metro: Concorde
attractions Académie Équestre de Versailles Created by Bartabas in 2003, the Versailles Equestrian Academy is both a school and a theatre troupe. The current show features fencing on horseback, improvisation and other surprises. Shows are held on Saturdays at 6pm and Sundays at 3pm. Avenue Rockefeller, Versailles. 01.39.02.62.70. RER C to Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche
Atelier des Lumières A digital art centre where giant reproductions of the art world’s Masters’ works are projected. Open from 10am to 6pm and until 10pm on Fridays and Saturdays. 38 rue Saint-Maur (11th), Metro: Père Lachaise
With 2 Disney Parks, filled with more than 50 attractions, shows and parades, a day at Disneyland Paris will set pulses racing among even the most seasoned thrill-seeker. Around 35 min from Paris by train (Nation station), RER A to Marne-la-Vallée/Chessy
Flight Experience Paris You can pilot a Boeing 737 in a state of the art flight simulator. Under the guidance of a qualified instructor, you can take off, climb, cruise and land. You can choose your route and flying time from several different flight packages. Mon-Fri 1:30pm-8pm, Sat, Sun 10am-10pm. 21 quai d’Austerlitz (13th), 01.45.86.04.04. Metro: Quai de la Gare
FlyView Enjoy a bird’s eye view of Paris with this virtual reality experience located in the heart of the French capital. Participants don a virtual reality helmet jetpack and enter a simulator to virtually fly over the city for a spectacular view of the capital and its iconic monuments. Suitable for children aged 8 and over. Sun-Thurs 11am-7pm, Fri, Sat 11am-9pm. 30 rue du 4 Septembre, Place de l’Opéra (2nd), 01.83.62.12.36. Metro: Opéra
Grande Arche
Discover the world of the sea at this delightful aquarium. Daily 10am-7pm, last tickets one hour before closing. 5 ave Albert de Mun (16th), 01.40.69.23.23. Metro: Iéna
This stunning monument listed as 20th century heritage is situated in the heart of the business district, La Défense. Its rooftop offers a 360° panoramic view of the city and it houses exhibition spaces devoted to photojournalism exhibitions on the 35th floor. 1 parvis de la Défense, 92800 Paris La Défense, 01.40.90.52.20. Metro: La Défense Grande Arche
This light-filled gallery replete with a garden is entirely devoted to the colourful sculptures and works of the leading contemporary French artist Richard Orlinski. It is an inviting place to discover not only his Born Wild series of animal sculptures, but his other works as well. 68 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01.47.42.28.83. Metro: Saint-Philippe-du-Roule
Aquarium Tropical du Palais de la Porte Dorée
Le Manoir de Paris
Opera Gallery
Catacombes de Paris
Modern Masters: Botero, Chagall, Léger, Calder
The catacombs of Paris house the remains of
Galerie Richard Orlinski
54 W HE RE Pa r i s I F E B R UAR Y 2020
Aquarium de Paris (Cinéaqua)
This aquarium on the eastern edge of Paris is devoted to tropical flora and fauna and houses a collection of some 15,000 animals representing some 750 species in attractive spaces. Tues-Fri 10am-5:30pm & Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. 293 ave Daumesnil (12th), 01.53.59.58.60. Metro: Porte Dorée
The urban legends of Paris come to life in this haunted manor house and listed historic monument. Fri 6pm-10pm & Sat, Sun 3pm-7pm. 18 rue de Paradis (10th), Metro: Château d’Eau
Parc Asterix This theme park brings you back in time to sample life as it was in a Gallic village. Magic potions, menhirs, cauldrons and a forest of druids are just
arts&attractions
Address Book
a sampling of the attractions in this fun-filled park. 09.86.86.86.87. Thirty kilometres north of Paris on the A1 highway direction, Lille, exit Parc Asterix between exits 7 and 8. Access directly from Paris with the shuttle bus which leaves from the coach park at the Carrousel du Louvre (follow the signs to ”parking autocars”). Times and dates vary, call ahead.
boat cruises Bateaux Parisiens Giant glass-roofed tour boats departing every hour on the hour, 10am-10pm (except 1pm & 7:30pm). Lunch and dinner cruises also available. Port de la Bourdonnais (7th), 01.76.64.14.45. Metro: Trocadéro
Bateaux-Mouches The legendary company has been offering cruises on the Seine river for decades. Doubledeck boats provide an unusual approach to Paris monuments. Departures every 40 min, 11am-9:20pm. For dinner cruises please see the Dining section. Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. Metro: Alma-Marceau
Batobus A sleek “shuttle boat” making 8 stops including the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, the Jardin des Plantes and the Town Hall. 10:30am-7pm. 01.76.64.79.12
Vedettes du Pont Neuf These hour cruises on the Seine offer a discovery of the city’s leading monuments.10:30am-9:40pm, boats 30 min apart. Square du Vert Galant (1st), 01.46.33.98.38. Metro: Pont Neuf
Vedettes de Paris Offering one-hour cruises departing from the Eiffel Tower. 10:30am-11pm, boats 25-30 min apart. Special theme cruises also available including a champagne tasting cruise. Port de Suffren (7th), 01.44.18.19.50. Metro: Bir Hakeim/RER C Champs de Mars
Musée Marmottan Monet ©Yves Forestier
day trips
Lignes from Gare de Lyon to Fontainebleau-Avon (40 min), then a short bus or shuttle ride from the station.
and an apiary. Rue de Médicis - Rue de Vaugirard (6th), Metro: Odéon
Château de Versailles
Louis XIV’s magnificent palace, with the Hall of Mirrors, Grands Appartements and Le Nôtre’s superb gardens. The Chateau is open Tue-Sun 9am-5:30pm. Gardens open daily 8 am to sunset; free. Avenue Rockefeller. 01.30.83.78.00. RER C to Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche
Château et Domaine de Chantilly
North of Paris, a 16 century royal château with a beautiful park and a fabulous art collection. MonSun 10:30am-5pm. 03.44.27.31.80. SNCF at the Gare du Nord (25 min) or RER D to Chantilly–Gouvieux (45 min) then take the free bus no. 15 marked “Senlis” to the château. th
Château de Vaux le Vicomte
This unique estate with its 17th century castle and formal French gardens is one of the most beautiful in France. The castle’s vast French gardens, punctuated by fountains and water basins, are regarded as royal gardener Andre Le Nôtre’s masterwork. Times and dates vary, call ahead. By car 55 km from Paris. Maincy 77950, 01.64.14.41.90
Musée National du Château de Malmaison
This delightful 17th century castle on the outskirts of Paris was the rural home of Josephine and Napoleon Bonaparte. 10am-12:30pm/13:30pm5:45pm/Until 6:15pm Sat & Sun. Closed Tues. Ave du Château de Malmaison, 01.41.29.05.55. Metro or RER to la Défense then bus 258 to the stop Château
gardens Jardin des Tuileries
This vast park filled with peaceful wide alleyways for strolling and an octagonal water basin offers a place for a promenade between the Pyramide du Louvre and the Place de la Concorde. Sculptures by Maillol, Rodin, Dubuffet and Louise Bourgeois are among the jewels set in these refreshing gardens. Jardin des Tuileries (1st), Metro: Concorde
Château de Fontainebleau
Jardin du Luxembourg
A residence of the French kings from the 12th to the 19th century, this royal château is famous for its superb Renaissance decor by Italian artists. WedMon 9:30am-5pm. 01.60.71.50.70. SNCF Grandes
These lovely gardens were built upon the initiative of Queen Marie de Medici in 1612. They are composed of both English and French gardens, a large pond, an orchard of old vintage fruit trees
Musée Marmottan Monet | MuseuMs & Fondations
guided tours Open Tour Paris Open-topped buses and over 50 stops. Buy tickets on board, at hotels, or at their boutique office. 13 rue Auber (9th), 01.42.66.56.56. Metro: Opéra
Paris Authentic This is a unique Parisian concept for personal sightseeing tours and excursions in traditional French 2cv cars. Be picked up anywhere in Paris and the Parisian drivers of Paris Authentic take you for an unusual discovery of their city. 06.64.50.44.19
Paris City Vision City tours, day and evening excursions, trips to the Loire and other regions. 2 rue des Pyramides (1st), 01.44.55.60.00. Metro: Tuileries
Retro Tour Discover Paris on board a genuine sidecar and motorcycle with a private guided tour from Retro Tour, accompanied by your Gentleman Sider guide and driver dressed in Chevignon classic clothing. Several tours, which can carry one or two people, are available and you can also customize your tour. 01.85.39.07.07
museums & foundations Centre Georges Pompidou France’s top modern art museum, with some 56,000 works by more than 5000 artists. WedMon 11am-9pm (last tickets 8pm). Place Georges Pompidou (4th), 01.44.78.12.33. Metro: Rambuteau
Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine The Palais de Chaillot now houses the Museum collection of French Monuments as part of the permanent collection in the Pavillon de Tête, while the temporary exhibits are housed in the left wing of the Pavillon d’About. Mon, Wed-Sun12pm7pm, Thur 12pm-9pm. Palais de Chaillot, 1 Place du Trocadero et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.58.51.52.00. Metro: Trocadéro
Dali Paris In the heart of Montmartre, this venue is entirely
Musée Picasso | MuseuMs & Fondations w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 55
arts&attractions Address Book
devoted to the master of Surrealism, Salvador Dali and houses a private collection of more than 300 of his works including sculptures, engravings, objects and furniture, offering a journey into Dali’s life and work. Daily 10am-6pm. 11 rue Poulbot (18th), 01.42.64.40.10. Metro: Abbesses/Anvers
Fondation Louis Vuitton This cultural institution in the Bois de Boulogne is devoted to contemporary art and creation. Exhibition spaces display permanent collections and temporary exhibitions. Mon, Wed, Thurs, Sat, Sun 11am-8pm, Fri 11am-9pm. 8 ave du Mahatma Gandhi (16th), 01.40.69.96.10. Metro: Sablons
Institut Giacometti This venue is devoted to exhibitions, art history, research and education offering a new look on the work of Alberto Giacometti and the period during which he created. It is operated by the Giacometti Foundation, which possesses the largest collection of works by Alberto Giacometti in the world. TuesSun 10am-6pm. Visits must be reserved online at www.fondation-giacometti.fr/institut. 5 rue Victor Schoelcher (14th), 01.44.54.52.44. Metro: Raspail
Institut du Monde Arabe Designed by architect Jean Nouvel, a cultural center and museum of Arab and Islamic arts. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm; Library: Tues-Sat 1pm-8pm. 1 rue des Fossés-Saint-Bernard (5th), 01.40.51.38.38. Metro: Jussieu
Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais National art galleries in the glass-roofed exhibit hall built for the 1900 World’s Fair. Thu-Mon 10am-8pm, Wed to 10pm. 3 ave Général Eisenhower (8th), 01.44.13.17.17. Metro: Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau
La Cinémathèque Française - Musée du Cinéma In a wonderful Frank Gehry-designed building, this is a cinema museum with screening rooms for international film classics, all shown in their original language. The permanent collection takes a look at cinema and its history through an impressive collection of films, objects, cameras and costumes. Wed-Mon 12pm-7pm. 51 rue de Bercy (12th), 01.71.19.33.33. Metro: Bercy
Les Docks - Cité de la Mode et du Design This cultural institution located on the banks of the Seine showcases creation, fashion and design. Housed in a spectacular contemporary building, the centre’s programme includes special exhibitions, art and trade shows and designers in residence. 34 Quai d’Austerlitz (13th), 01.76.77.25.30. Metro: Gare d’Austerlitz
MAD A semi-private museum with a fabulous collection of decorative arts-furniture, housewares, ceramics and porcelain, paintings and objets d’art, dating from the late Middle Ages to 21st century design, including a dozen sumptuously furnished period rooms. Tues-Sun 11am-6pm, last tickets 5:45pm. 107 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.57.50. Metro: Palais Royal
Mona Bismarck American Center The center is positioned to be the premier venue for American art and artists in the cultural capital of Europe – Paris. Its mission is to engage international audiences in a compelling dialogue with American culture of the 20th and 21st centuries. Times and dates vary, call ahead.01.47.23.38.88. 34 ave de New York (16th), Metro: Iéna
Monnaie de Paris - Musée du 11 Conti This beautiful building on the Seine was home to the French mint. Today craftsmen continue to fashion medals, official decorations and collector’s coins. Tues-Sun 11am-7pm, Wed 11am-9pm. 11 Quai de Conti (6th), 01.40.46.56.66. Metro: Pont Neuf
Musée des Arts et Métiers A marvelous display of some 3,000 scientific and technological discoveries and inventions through the centuries, including Pascal’s 1642 calculator and Foucault’s 1855 pendulum. Tue-Sun 10 am-6 pm, Thu 10 am- 9:30 pm. 60 rue Réaumur (3rd), 01.53.01.82.00. Metro: Arts et Métiers
Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris The city’s modern art museum offers a permanent collection covering the entire 20th century. TueSun 10am-6 pm. 11 ave du Président Wilson (16th), 01.53.67.40.00. Metro: Alma-Marceau/Trocadéro
Musée de l’Armée – Hôtel des Invalides This historic monument houses a superb military museum while Napoleon’s impressive tomb lies under the golden cupola of the Eglise du Dome. The permanent exhibition draws on a collection of more than 500,000 works, objects and documents from the Bronze Age to the 21st century. Daily 10am-5pm. Hôtel des Invalides, 129 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.44.42.38.77. Metro: Varenne
Musée Cognacq-Jay This museum of the city of Paris is devoted mainly to art of the 18th century with the exception of a major work by Rembrandt. Paintings by Canaletto, Tiepolo, Boucher, Fragonard and sculptures by
Fondation Louis Vuitton | MuseuMs & Fondations 56 W HE RE Pa r i s I F E B R UAR Y 2020
Houdon and Lemoyne along with period furniture, Saxe porcelain and objects worked in silver are housed in a mansion listed as a historic monument located in the Marais. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 8 rue Elzévir (3rd), 01.40.27.07.21. Metro: Saint-Paul
Musée Grévin A wax museum displaying more than 300 life-sized historical and modern French and international figures. The restored Palais des Mirages plunges the visitor into a giant, mirrored kaleidoscope. Mon-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat-Sun, bank and school holidays 10am-7pm. 10 blvd Montmartre (9th), 01.47.70.85.05. Metro: Grands Boulevards
Musée Guimet This museum houses one of the most extensive collections of Asian art in Europe, displaying over 4,000 works of art from the continent’s myriad cultures and civilisations, spanning five millennia. Daily 10am-6pm, last tickets at 5:15pm, closed Tues. 6 Place d’Iéna (16th), 01.56.52.53.00. Metro: Iéna
Musée de l’Homme The national anthropological museum houses remarkable, internationally renowned prehistory and anthropological collections offering a glimpse into the human being, his complex nature and evolution from the inception of his appearance on the face of the planet to the present. Wed-Mon 11am-7pm. 17 Place du Trocadéro et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.44.05.72.72. Metro: Trocadéro
Musée de l’Air et de l’Espace Here you will find 350 authentic aeroplanes, 1,000 scale models, thousands of works of art and one of the finest collections of aircraft in the world ranging from 17th century balloons to the Concorde. The museum’s Art Deco Grande Galérie houses over 400 exceptional objects and flying machines. Tue-Sun 10am-5pm. Aéroport de Paris-Le Bourget, 93350 Le Bourget, 01.49.92.70.00. Take the number 350 bus from the Gare du Nord directly to the museum.
Musée de la Vie Romantique A lovely 19th century home and garden with mementos of George Sand and paintings by Ary Scheffer. Tue-Sun 10am-6 pm. 16 rue Chaptal (9th), 01.55.31.95.67. Metro: Blanche
Musée Jacquemart-André The mansion of 19th century magnate Edouard André and his wife Nélie Jacquemart, whose stunning collection of furniture and art includes
MAD (Musée des Arts Décoratifs) | MuseuMs & Fondations
arts&attractions
Address Book
an Italian section with works by Mantegna, Uccello and Botticelli. Daily 10am-6pm, Mon until 9:30pm (for temporary exhibitions). 158 blvd Haussmann (8th), 01.45.62.11.59. Metro: Miromesnil
zoological gardens in the world, the Ménagerie. Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, Sat late night until 8 pm. Jardin des Plantes, 36 rue Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire (5th), 01.40.79.54.79. Metro: Censier-Daubenton/Austerlitz
Musée du Louvre
Musée National Jean-Jacques Henner
One of the world’s most important art collections, including the Mona Lisa, European painting and sculpture, large-format 19th century French paintings, Greek, Roman and Egyptian antiquities. Open Wed-Mon 9am-6pm (to 9:45 pm Wed & Fri, reduced price after 6pm). 99 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.40.20.53.17. Metro: Palais-Royal/Louvre-Rivoli
This museum housed in an elegant 19th century mansion showcases some 300 works, objects and documents tracing the life and career of the 19th century French painter Jean-Jacques Henner. Wed-Mon 11am to 6pm. 43 avenue de Villiers (17th), 01.47.63.42.73. Metro: Malesherbes
Musée de la Magie
In the heart of Paris in the Tuileries Garden this completely renovated museum allows the visitor to discover the spectacular ensemble of Monet’s Water Lilies in natural lighting as well as the 144 works of art in the Walter-Guillaume Collection (including Renoir, Cézanne, Modigliani, Matisse, Picasso...). Wed-Mon 9am- 6pm. Jardin des Tuileries, entrance Place de la Concorde (1st). Metro: Concorde
A fantasy world awaits in this space devoted to magic. Beneath 16th century vaulted cellars are optical illusions, magic art and more. The visit winds up with a superb magic show. Wed, Sat, Sun and daily during school holidays. 2pm-7pm. 11 rue Saint Paul (4th), 01.42.72.13.26. Metro: Saint-Paul
Musée de Montmartre and Jardins Renoir The museum on the hill was founded in 1960 and today houses a permanent collection that boasts works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Modigliani and Utrillo. The charming museum is also surrounded by three gardens dedicated to Auguste Renoir, rendering the museum even more exceptional. Open daily from 10am to 6pm. 12-14 rue Cortot (18th), 01.49.25.89. 39. Metro: Lamarck-Caulaincourt
Musée du Parfum - Fragonard Discover the world of perfume and perfume making in this delightful museum operated by Fragonard, the legendary Grasse-based perfume and essence maker ensconced in a superb Napoleon III town house. This year Fragonard is celebrating the lily of the valley. Free. Mon-Sat 9am-6pm. 3-5 square de l’Opéra Louis Jouvet (9th) , 01.40.06.10.09. Metro: Opéra
Musée Marmottan Monet A beautiful and delightful museum in a private mansion housing the world’s largest collection of works by Claude Monet. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, Thurs until 9pm. 2 rue Louis Boilly (16th), 01.44.96.50.33. Metro: La Muette
Museum National d’Histoire Naturelle A natural history museum famed for its Grande Galerie de l’Evolution, a stunning display of thousands of animal species. Other galleries house the rich collections of paleontology, comparative anatomy, mineralogy and geology. The galleries and exhibition halls are surrounded by the botanical gardens of Paris and one of the oldest
haute couture house. Retrospective displays are alternated with temporary thematic exhibitions and by appointment guided tours can be organized. Tues-Sun 11am-6pm, last tickets at 5:15pm. Fri until 9pm, last tickets at 8:15pm. 5 avenue Marceau (16th), 01.44.31.64.00. M°Alma-Marceau
Musée de l’Orangerie
Musée d’Orsay A dramatically renovated former train station devoted to 19th and 20th century art, including the Impressionists, Manet, Van Gogh and Gauguin. Tue-Sun 9:30am-6pm, Thurs until 9:45pm. 1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur (7th), 01.40.49.48.14. Metro: Solférino
Musée du Quai Branly - Jacques Chirac An extensive and dramatically displayed collection of indigenous arts from Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas. Tues-Sun 9:15am-7:30pm, Thurs until 10:30pm. 37 Quai Branly (7th), 01.56.61.70.00. Metro: Alma Marceau
Built in 1937 as the French Modern Art Museum, the Palais is known today as the site of contemporary creation, dedicated to opening the minds of all generations. This is the only museum in Paris to be open until midnight and almost all events are open to the public. From 12 noon to 12 midnight every day except Tuesday. 13 ave du Président Wilson(16th),01.47.23.54.01. Metro: Iéna
Petit Palais The city’s fine arts museum, in a beautifully renovated 1900 building. The extensive permanent collection offers a panorama of art from antiquity to the early 20th century. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, late night Fri (only for exhibitions) until 9pm. Ave Winston Churchill (8th), 01.53.43.40.00. Metro: Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau
practical information
Musée Rodin Sculpture by Auguste Rodin, with works by his pupil and muse Camille Claudel, in a former private mansion, with its famous gardens and chapel. TueSun 10am-6:30pm, last tickets at 5:30pm. 79 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.44.18.61.10. Metro: Varenne
Musée du Parfum - Fragonard | MuseuMs & Fondations
Palais de Tokyo
This cultural venue in eastern Paris dedicated to music houses concert halls, exhibition spaces, rehearsal rooms and educational spaces for workshops and conferences. Tues-Fri 12pm-6pm/ Sat & Sun 10am to 6pm. 221 ave Jean Jaurès (19th), 01.44. 84.44.84. Metro: Porte de Pantin
A major collection of Picasso’s works - paintings, drawings, sculptures, ceramics - displayed in a beautifully restored 17th century mansion in the trendy Marais district. Tues-Fri 10:30am-6pm, Sat & Sun 9:30am-6pm. 5 rue Thorigny (3rd), 01.42.71.25.21. Metro: Saint-Sébastien - Froissart
This museum devoted to the French designer Yves Saint Laurent exhibits the couturier’s body of work and is located on the premises of his former
This museum and cultural centre geared for both children and adults is devoted to the sciences and hosts temporary exhibitions in addition to its permanent spaces devoted to math, physics and other sciences. Interactive displays, workshops and a planetarium are all on the agenda.Tues-Sat 9:30am to 6pm. Sun and holidays 10am-7pm. Avenue Franklin Roosevelt (8th), 01.56.43.20.20. Metro: Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau
Philharmonie de Paris - Cité de la Musique
Musée Picasso
Musée Yves Saint Laurent
Palais de la Découverte
Le Kiosque Théâtre Offers tickets for shows on the same day at half price. Seats are available for most shows in theatres, café-théâtres and prestigious cabarets. Tues-Sat 12:30pm-14:30pm/3pm-7:30pm, Sun12:30pm-3:45pm. Kiosque Madeleine: facing 15 Place de la Madeleine (8th). Metro: Madeleine; Kiosque Montparnasse: on the esplanade between the Tower and the Gare Montparnasse. Metro: MontparnasseBienvenue
Philharmonie de Paris | MuseuMs & Fondations w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 57
The Guide
dining
Discover Nathan Helo’s contemporary cuisine at L’Epi Dupin (page 61)
58 W HE RE Pa r i s I F E B R UAR Y 2020
L’Epi Dupin Photo © Pierre Lucet Penato
Contemporary Cuisine | French Brasseries | Italian Fare | Bistros | Designer Drinks
dining
Restaurants
Contemporary Climats Majestic stairs, leading into a dining room under a dome ceiling, is where an evening of fine dining begins at Les Climats. In a very quiet street in the chic 7th arrondissement is where the restaurant is found, discrete, unassuming from the outside, and pulsating with an ambiance that says this is where sophisticated Parisian foodies dine. Young chef Emmanuel Kouri’s contemporary take on traditional French fare is the reason this table is a favourite among locals and visiting guests looking for an establishment that will satisfy their expectations in dining in the culinary capital of the world. Gnocchi with black truffles and cooked in vin jaune, blue lobster drizzled with butter and served with avocado seasoned with curry, and sweetbread accompanied by spelt cooked risottostyle with aged parmesan are some of the mouth-watering dishes found on the menu. Wine connoisseurs will also be delighted with the choice of drops, with Les Climats offering one of the most impressive Burgundy wine lists in the French capital. – S.I. Les Climats 41 rue de Lille (7th), 01 58 62 10 08
Les climats © Olivier Sochard; Terminus Nord © benedetta chiala
Brasserie Date Terminus Nord, a glamorous 1925 vintage Art Déco brasserie just across the street from the Gare du Nord is not only a perfect address for anyone looking for a meal before or after a train, but ideal for anyone looking for an off-hours meal or a good feed on Saturday or Sunday. It’s recently been refurbished, and the animated dining room is a prettier place than ever to tuck into a big tray of freshly shucked oysters, or maybe some onion soup or smoked salmon to start, followed by a classic Strasbourg-style choucroute garni (sauerkraut with sausages and pork), sole meunière, steak tartare or scallops in Champagne sauce. Finish up with the vanilla millefeuille, crêpes Suzette flamed in Grand Marnier or floating island. Great people watching, swift service and a good address for solo diners. – Alexandre Lobrano Terminus Nord 23 rue Dunkerque (10th), 01 42 85 05 15
w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 59
dining
Restaurants
Casual Italian In an outdoor indoor ambiance step into Madison Caffe for casual dining, Italian-style. The restaurant serves up pizzas, pasta dishes, including their famous orecchiette pasta tossed in creamy pesto and topped with a ball of creamy burrata cheese, and salads for the health-conscious. Though even diners counting their calories better make room for the homemade-style desserts, especially the tiramisu, served straight from a porcelain deep dish, just like mama makes at home. The restaurant doesn’t accept reservations but is open all day, every day, so queues shouldn’t be a problem to tackle except at peak Parisian meal times, between 12 and 1pm, and between 7 and 9pm. – S.I. Madison Caffe 10 Chaussée de la Muette (16th)
Aux Lyonnais, one of the most beautiful bistros in Paris, celebrates its 130th birthday this year with dishes prepared by three young chefs from the Auvergne-Rhone-Alps region where Lyon is located. Chef Julien Allano from Le Clair de la Plume in Grignan leads off the rotation this month with a delicious terrine of marinated vegetables, followed in March by André Taormina of the Michelinstarred Ambroisie in Saint-Didier-de-la-Tour with rabbit in rosemary jus and potato gnocchi, and finally Jean-Michel Carrette of Aux Terrasses in Tournus in April with pikeperch mousseline with crayfish and sauce Nantua. With a landmarked décor of art-nouveau tiles, this bistro, which is run by gastronaut Alain Ducasse, specialises in the cooking of Lyon, with dishes like ravioli with watercress and Abondance cheese, oven-baked croaker fish in a vin jaune sauce, scallops cooked in their shells with a Grenobloise garnish and cheese from La Mere Richard, the famous cheese-monger in Les Halles de Lyon. – A.L. Aux Lyonnais 32 rue Saint-Marc (2nd), 01 42 96 65 04 60 W HE RE Pa r i s I F E B R UAR Y 2020
Aux Lyonnais © Pierre Monetta
A Bistro Celebration
dining
Restaurants
A New-Look Bistro Ever since it opened in a side street near Le Bon Marché department store in 1995, L’Epi Dupin has been one of the most popular bistros on the Left Bank. Now it’s been taken over by the celebrated Rostang restaurant family, and there’s a new chef in the kitchen, young Nathan Helo, who previously worked at the George V and in London. Stand-out dishes from the new Dupin menu include mashed grilled avocado in an oyster mushroom bouillon with langoustines, scallops with butternut purée, chestnuts and wild mushrooms, pan-roasted chicken with potato-and-celeriac cake, and a superb soufflé with buttermilk ice-cream and clementines. Service is prompt and friendly, and the wine list is excellent. With a new décor by Richard Lafond that includes lots of blonde wood, indigo walls and a plant-filled ceiling between the ancient beams overhead, and an abbreviated name, this charming address is ready to delight discerning diners for a new decade. – A.L. Dupin 11 rue Dupin (6th), 01 42 22 64 56
L’Epi Dupin© Pierre Lucet Penato; Osteria del Vino © Laurent Dupont
A Taste of Italy in Paris In the city’s popular Eataly restaurant/marketplace is Osteria del Vino, a restaurant hidden behind a wine bar, away from the craziness of the huge, bustling, “market”. Surprisingly intimate, given its location, Osteria del Vino offers a romantic setting to appreciate Italian cuisine in the City of Love. Start with the creamy burrata cheese served with fresh tomatoes and drizzled with extra virgin oil before dining on the traditional risotto alla Milanese or the ricotta and squash ravioli tossed in butter and topped with crispy guanciale. End your meal on a sweet note with the house tiramisu. Open daily for both lunch and dinner. Reservations are recommended. - S.I. Osteria del Vino Eataly Paris Marais 37 rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie (4th),01 83 65 81 00 w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 61
dining
Restaurants
The Wagamama Way A bowl full of noodles, spicy curries and of course ramen are all on the menu at Wagamama, our go-to eatery for good value Asian cuisine. The menu here is extensive with so much choice that you will need more than a minute to peruse it and make your choice. And there is something for everyone. Vegan? There is a whole side menu devoted to you with mixed vegetable tempura, gyoza and our favourite Bang Bang Cauliflower, a generous serving of crispy cauliflower with a spicy sauce, fresh ginger and fresh coriander. Gluten free you say? The restaurant can accommodate you by offering gluten-free rice noodles as a substitute for your Yasai Yaki Soba or perhaps the Pad-Thai. Counting your calories? Wagamama has an appetising salad menu and great sides, as well as a juice bar. – S.I. Wagamama 10 Place de Budapest (9th), 01 40 06 00 94
Clover Green, a charming little restaurant in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, is a terrific address for vegetarians and vegans, but the food is so good, it will make omnivores happy, too. It’s run by Michelin two-star chef Jean-François Piège and his wife Elodie, with acting chef Thibault Le Courtois doing dishes that are light, vivid and full of flavour, a real accomplishment for a menu using exclusively seasonal winter vegetables. During a recent meal, we started with shirred eggs with chopped black truffle and puffed buckwheat in an eggshell, making for a homey, soothing opener, and then tucked into a rich Jerusalem artichoke soup garnished with smoked onion ice-cream. Next, a beautiful golden tourte filled with Savoy cabbage, marinated red cabbage, carrots and Swiss chard in a Savagnin wine sauce, and finally poached quince with pears and a garnish of crumble. – A.L. Clover Green 5 rue Perronet (7th), 01 75 50 00 05 62 W HE RE Pa r i s I F E B R UAR Y 2020
Wagamama © from paris agency; Clover Green © Nicolas Lobbestael
Going Green
dining
Restaurants
Dinner at the White House By Patricia Valicenti
I
t is one of those mythical and unique Parisian venues perched atop the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées, which is itself a listed historic monument. The Maison Blanche, with its panoramic view, festive Friday nights replete with a DJ and nightclub on Saturday nights, is celebrating its 30th birthday this year, making this spot with its incredible views onto the Eiffel Tower and the elegant Avenue Montaigne even more worthy of a lunch or dinner date.
Terrasse Montaigne © Maison Blanche; Salle © Constance Viot Photographie
The house, in addition to its indoor dining area, has two unique terraces for al fresco dining, even in winter, for they are enclosed and heated. The Terrasse Montaigne all dressed up in white offers a breath-taking view onto the inimitable rooftops of Paris while the more confidential and greenery-filled Terrasse George V hidden up on the mezzanine offers a superb view onto the Eiffel Tower.
into one of the chicest nightclubs in Paris on Saturday nights at the stroke of half past midnight when the tables are moved aside and drinks and dancing are on the agenda. An eclectic programme of DJs, live entertainment and performances is played out throughout the year to the delight of Parisians, and visiting, night owls. The house also hosts private events for special occasions and for prestigious corporate events. Maison Blanche 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 47 23 55 99
With its views and delicious cuisine, the restaurant offers an ideal spot for business lunches, friendly lunches and dinner in a muted atmosphere. At the helm in the kitchen is master chef Fabrice Giraud who prepares savoury and refined market-based fare that follows the seasons. For lunch you might want to start with a creamy pumpkin soup with goat cheese or a salad with shitake mushrooms. Main courses might include fresh cod in black olive bouillon served with eggplant and tomatoes or tender beef cheek braised in red wine and served with candied chestnuts and potato purée. Wind up on a sweet note with the house’s clementine tart with cream made with Tahitian vanilla. Dinner options can include the foie gras en gelée or a lovely dish of cooked and raw beets marinated in yuzu citrus juice and virgin olive oil. Main dishes include a perfectly cooked wild sea bass served with butternut squash or duck breast enhanced with an array of wild pepper and whisky. For a sweet note, savour the Pavlova, a joyful confection of meringue, raspberry granita and fresh fruit. On Sundays, from noon until 2.30pm a charming Parisian brunch is served with fresh juice, champagne, breakfast pastries and a main course like chef Giraud’s special eggs benedict with smoked salmon and dessert, including the not always easy to find crêpes Suzette. And on the weekend, the Maison Blanche restaurant is transformed w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 63
DINING
Restaurants Advertorial LE BOULEDOGUE Traditional French Cuisine / Paris 3rd Since 1995, right in the heart of the Marais, in a warm and cosy atmosphere, Le Bouledogue has been serving traditional and generous French fare using only seasonal products. Open from Monday to Saturday, from 10am to 11pm, with continuous service. Closed on Sunday.
20 rue Rambuteau, Paris 3rd Metro: Rambuteau/Hotel de Ville Tel: +33(0)1 40 27 90 90 www.lebouledogue.fr
DJAKARTA BALI
AU COIN DES GOURMETS
Indonesian cuisine
Indochine Cuisine / Paris 1st & 5th
49 rue Vauvilliers, Paris 1st 4Metro: Louvre-Rivoli/Châtelet-Les Halles 4Tel: +33 (0)1 45 08 83 11 4Lunch: 12pm to 2.00pm except Monday and Tuesday 4Dinner: 7pm to 10.30pm except Monday 4Balinese Dance show on Friday Night 4Special discovery menu, the RIJSTTAFEL: 25-55€ 4www.djakarta-bali.com
Imagine a little gem of a place, serene and refined, decorated with batiks and Javanese puppets, just around the corner from the Louvre. Enjoy delicate foods from Java, Sumatra and Bali. Don’t miss the Beef RENDANG "Best Dish of the world" by CNN Travel reader1‘s choice 2017. 181x132 WHERE AVRIL_2019.qxp_Mise en page 25/10/2019 10:32 Page 1
Seafood a Parisian culture
438 rue du Mont-Thabor, Paris 1st 4Tel: +33 (0)1 42 60 79 79 45 rue Dante, Paris 5th 4Tel: +33 (0)1 43 26 12 92 4www.coindesgourmetsrivedroite.fr
This restaurant is the ideal place for a quick lunch or a romantic dinner. For the past 20 years, the Ta family has been offering authentic Vietnamese cuisine. You will be seduced by the freshness and the refined savours of their dishes. Recommended by Zagat. Near Place Vendôme, near NotreDame. Advisable to reserve.
L’Auberge Dab
Tel. 01 45 00 32 22
161, avenue Malakoff - Paris 16th Open 7 days a week from noon to midnight Valet parking available
www.auberge-dab.com
Le Congrès Maillot
www.congres-maillot.com
Le Congrès Auteuil
Tel. 01 46 51 15 75
144, boulevard Exelmans - Paris 16th Open 7 days a week from 8am to midnight Valet parking available
www.congres-auteuil.com
Sébillon
Tel. 01 46 24 71 31
20, av. Charles de Gaulle - 92200 Neuilly Open 7 days a week from noon - 3pm and from 7pm to midnight - Valet parking available
www.sebillon.com
L’Européen
Tel. 01 43 43 99 70
21 bis, boulevard Diderot - Paris 12th Open 7 days a week from 7.30am - 1am
www.l-europeen.com
64 W HE RE Pa r i s I F E B R UAR Y 2020
Design by Agence PORTOFINO - Crédit photo : Francis Hammond
Tel. 01 45 74 17 24
80, avenue de la Grande Armée - Paris 17th Open 7 days a week from 7.30am - 2am Valet parking available
dining
Drinking Collaborations
Designer Drinks By Sandra Iskander
Forget fashion, the hottest collaborations and designer dreams are now found on drinkable accessories.
In a bottle decorated in florals using real gold, Cantarelle Gin de Provence presents its new gin offering, Exclusive Amphora Aged. Aged for six months in terracotta and clay amphorae made by Italian artisans, the gin is smooth with floral notes. Available at boutique.lherre.fr
Absolut Vodka has released a limitededition bottle, Absolut Recycled, made with recycled glass. And the effect is an ice cube-filled bottle that promotes recycling. Available at Publicis Drugstore 133 ave des ChampsElysées (8th), 01 44 43 75 07
Drink your French cider from colourful bottles courtesy of Quentin Monge. The talented illustrator has covered a limited edition giftbox for Maison Sassy, the French star in the world of handcrafted apple cider, with dancing ladies, floating apples and waving palm trees. Available at Maison Plisson 35 Place du Marché Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 83 97 96 96
Even the humble Nespresso coffee pod has been given a designer make-over. Courtesy of Danish designer Louise Campbell, you can sip your Nordic-inspired coffee made from metallic waves-dressed pods from matching limited-edition cups. Nespresso Boutique 11 rue Scribe (9th), 08 00 55 52 53
Château de la Grâce Dieu des Prieurs’s Art Russe collection of Saint-Emilion Grand Cru wines are poured in bottles adorned with works of Russian artists, whose works are also exhibited in the château owner’s Fondation Art Russe d’Andrei Filatov. The bottles can then be purchased with a special bottle holder designed by famous French architect, Jean Nouvel, designed with wood and concrete, incorporating the savoir-faire of the designer and the domain’s architecture. Available at Allénothèque 6 Allée du Beaupassage (7th), 01 84 74 21 21 w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 65
Address Book
dining
For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris dInIng On The SeIne Bateaux-Mouches - Classic French
(€€€)
Enjoy a romantic dinner cruise on the Seine river enchanted by violin and piano music. Daily departures for dinner at 8:30pm. On Sat, Sun and public holidays lunches at 1pm (with country music). Port de la Conférence, Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. Metro: Alma-Marceau
Bateaux Parisiens - Classic French (€€€)
Enjoy a three or four course lunch or dinner on board these boats as they take you on a tour of Paris on the Seine. The menus change with the seasons. The lunch menu can include chilled green asparagus with mozzarella and for a main free-range chicken with mashed potatoes. Dinner choices can include smoked salmon to start and as a main filet of sea bass. Reservations required. Port de la Bourdonnais (7th), 01.76.64.14.45. Metro: Trocadéro
Yachts de Paris - Classic French (€€€€€)
The most luxurious of all the river boats serves up gourmet dinner cruises in collaboration with the French house of gastronomy Lenôtre. The seasonal menu includes noble products and dishes that have been elaborated exclusively for the cruise. Port Henri IV (4th), 01.44.54.14.70. Metro: Pont de Sully
fOOd & wIne Beaupassage
This calm, greenery-filled, open-sky passageway dedicated to gastronomy, art and well-being is lined with eateries and food shops from the stars of French cuisine including Thierry Marx, Yannick Alléno and Pierre Hermé. Daily B, L & D. 53-57 rue de Grenelle (7th), Metro: Rue du Bac
Fauchon
A celebrated food emporium with an excellent selection of wines, along with foie gras, caviar, exotic fruit, chocolates, teas and spices. Also offers top-notch take-out meals. Amazing gift baskets make for a perfect offering for all foodies. 30 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.70.39.38.00. Metro: Madeleine
La Grande Epicerie Rive Droite
This high end grocery store carries superb and carefully selected meats, fish, cheeses and produce as well as a full range of gourmet products ranging from spices to teas and coffees, condiments, a host
of sweet treats and more. There is a fine selection of beers, wines and spirits and a luxury counter with truffles, smoked salmon and caviar and other delicacies. 80 rue de Passy (16th), 01.44.14.38.00. Metro: La Muette
La Maison Plisson
This grocery store carries a full range of excellent, carefully sourced products ranging from meats to cheeses to cold cuts and fresh fruits and vegetables. Homemade juices, fine wines and fresh breads are all available and there is a restaurant serving breakfast, lunch and light meals and snacks. 93 blvd Beaumarchais (3rd), 01.71.18.19.09. Metro: Saint Sébastien-Froissart
Nicolas
The celebrated Parisian wine shops offer a wide range of reds, whites, rosés, champagnes and liquors for all budgets. A warm welcome and excellent advice are hallmarks of Nicolas. The three-storey Place de la Madeleine boutique is the largest and features a wine cellar. An on the premises wine bar is opened Mon-Fri noon-8pm/Sat noon-3pm. 31 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.68.00.16. Metro: Madeleine
aROund lOuvRe & PalaIS ROyal (1st, 2nd) Aux Lyonnais - Bistro (€€)
A beautiful 1890 bistro now co-owned by superchef Alain Ducasse, offering spiffed-up and modernized Lyon specialties: baked eggs with crawfish, roast chicken with mushrooms, tomatoes and onions in vinegar glaze. Tue-Fri L&D, Sat D. 32 rue Saint-Marc (2nd), 01.42.96.65.04. Metro: Richelieu-Drouot
Bistro Volnay - Bistro (€€€)
Champeaux - Brasserie (€€)
This Alain Ducasse brasserie, located beneath the canopy of the Forum des Halles centre, is a fine spot for a nice lunch, inventive cocktails with tapas or dinner. Traditional brasserie fare is on the agenda like cold cut platters and onion soup as well as a selection of marinated raw fish dishes and an array of soufflés, the house’s signature dish. Daily L & D. Forum des Halles, Porte Rambuteau (1st), 01.53.45.84.50. Metro: Les Halles
Clover Grill - Steakhouse (€€€)
The latest offering from French chef Jean-François Piège sees carnivores treated to the best steak in town. Black Market beef from Australia and Prime Angus beef from Kansas are only some of the cuts found on the menu alongside cocktails created by the talented trio behind the Experimental Cocktail Club especially for the restaurant. Daily L&D. 6 rue Bailleul (1st), 01.40.41.59.59. Metro: Louvre-Rivoli
Djakarta Bali - Indonesian (€)
An excellent restaurant run by a charming, Englishspeaking brother-and-sister team. Try lumpia (deep-fried spring rolls), or ayam jahe (chicken caramelized in ginger). Wen-Sun L&D, Tues L only. 9 rue Vauvilliers (1st), 01.45.08.83.11. Metro: Louvre-Rivoli
Le Grand Véfour - Modern Classic (€€€€)
The opulent two-star restaurant in the Palais Royal arcades that has been serving the Parisian beau monde since the 1700s. Among chef Guy Martin’s superb dishes are the foie gras ravioli with truffle jus. Mon-Fri L&D, Fri. L only. 17 rue de Beaujolais (1st), 01.42.96.56.27. Metro: Palais Royal
Le Meurice-Alain Ducasse - Modern Classic (€€€€€)
Good, authentic French food in a relaxed, friendly setting with a first-rate wine list including an excellent value Volnay. The cheese tray is superb and generously served. Mon-Fri L&D. 8 rue Volney (2nd), 01.42.61.06.65. Metro: Opéra
A stunning 18th-century room offers a gastronomic menu featuring sumptuous 2-star cuisine that changes with the seasons. Mon-Fri L&D. Hôtel Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.58.10.44. Metro: Tuileries
Canard & Champagne - Classic French (€€)
Fine contemporary French cuisine can be savoured in this one-star restaurant with an elegant and cosy atmosphere overlooking the beautiful gardens of the Palais Royal. Chef Philip Chronopoulos prepares traditional dishes like lamb T-bone served with sweet peas and seaweed, and caramelised duck served with a sweet apricot jus and carrot puree. Tues-Sat L&D. 110 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.20.00.27. Metro: Palais Royal
This charming restaurant serves two of France’s most emblematic foodstuffs, duck and champagne. French-raised duck is served deliciously as foie gras, confit (preserved in its own fat and grilled) and magret (duck breast). There is a superb selection of champagnes as well. Daily L&D. 57 Passage des Panoramas (2nd), 09.81.83.95.69. Metro: Grands Boulevards
Le Restaurant du Palais Royal - Contemporary (€€)
Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & D: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Le Meurice - Alain Ducasse | MOdeRn ClaSSIC (1st) 66 W HE RE Pa r i s I F E B R UAR Y 2020
Bistro Volnay | BISTRO (2nd)
dining
Address Book
Le Soufflé - Classic French (€€)
This is the place to taste one of France’s finest specialties, the souffle. Attentive service and superb quality await in this restaurant established in 1961. Faithful to traditional cuisine, in addition to over 20 different kinds of souffles, a classic French menu is proposed. Mon-Sat L&D. 36 rue du Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.27.19. Metro: Concorde
le MaRaIS (3rd, 4th) Bofinger - Brasserie (€€)
A landmark brasserie with a sensational Belle Epoque decor. Keep it simple here: steak tartare, oysters and big seafood platters. Daily L&D. 5-7 rue de la Bastille (4th), 01.42.72.87.82. Metro: Bastille
Breakfast in America - American (€€)
For a traditional American Diner serving classic comfort food - including real burgers and breakfasts (omelets, bagels and yummy pancakes with real maple syrup etc.), plus fresh milkshakes and much more. Receive 10% off when you order breakfast anytime of the day by showing our ad. Daily B, L&D. 4 rue Malher (4th), 01.42.72.40.21. Metro: Saint-Paul
L’Ambroisie - Haute Cuisine (€€€€€)
In a beautiful 17th century mansion in the Place des Vosges, media-shy three-star chef Bernard Pacaud is renowned for splendid renditions of deceptively simple dishes such as lobster ravioli with truffles or langoustine feuillantine with sesame and curry. TueSat L&D. 9 Place des Vosges (4th), 01.42.78.51.45. Metro: Saint-Paul
L’Ami Louis - Bistro
(€€€€€)
A classic bistro known for huge portions of foie gras and exorbitant prices. People tend to love it or hate it, and well-heeled tourists reserve weeks in advance. Wed-Sun L&D. 32 rue du Vertbois (3rd), 01.48.87.77.48. Metro: Arts et Métiers
QuaRTIeR laTIn & SaInT-geRMaIn (5th, 6th) Alcazar - Brasserie (€€€)
This family-owned Parisian restaurant offers a harmonious atmosphere highlighted by luxuriant vegetation. You might try a beet, goat cheese and hazelnut salad for starters then try a nicely spiced shoulder of lamb with apricots for a main. Meanwhile cocktails can be enjoyed up on the
balcony. Daily L&D, closed Sun & Mon in the summer. 62 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.53.10.19.99. Metro: Odéon
Au Moulin à Vent - Bistro (€€)
This charming bistro located in one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Paris is known for the quality of its Salers beef and its specialties of the Beaujolais region. Tues–Fri L&D/Sat D only. 20 rue des FossésSaint-Bernard (5th), 01.43.54.99.37. Metro: Jussieu
Bouillon Chartier Montparnasse - Classic French (€€)
Sumptuous food in a sumptuous decor. A stunning Art Nouveau setting in this registered historical monument surrounds you as you delight in a fine selection of traditional brasserie fare. Daily L&D. 59 blvd Montparnasse (6th), 01.45.49.19.00. Metro: Montparnasse-Bienvenue
Café de Flore - Bistro (€€)
The legendary café made famous in the 1950s by Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir and other Left Bank intellectuals. The atmosphere is still Parisian, the fare limited to (expensive) drinks and light meals and traditional desserts. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 172 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.26. Metro: Saint-Germain-des-Prés
Café des Deux Magots - Café (€€)
The other legendary Left Bank café, still going strong long after its 1950s heyday. The prices are equally high, but it remains an authentic Parisian favourite. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 6 Place Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.25. Metro: Saint-Germain-des-Prés
Marsan-Hélène Darroze - Southwestern French (€€)
Young chef Hélène Darroze serves up southwestern French specialties in this contemporary one-star restaurant. The casual ground floor Salon d’Hélène serves upscale tapas. Mon-Fri L&D. 4 rue d’Assas (6th), 01.42.22.00.11. Metro: Sèvres Babylone
La Méditerranée - Seafood
(€€)
A bright and beautiful, mostly seafood restaurant with marvelous wall paintings and a glass-walled terrace facing the Odéon theater. It once welcomed the likes of Liz Taylor and Orson Welles, as the discreet photos on the stairwell attest. Daily L&D. 2 Place de l’Odéon (6th), 01.43.26.02.30. Metro: Odéon
Lapérouse - Gourmet (€€€)
This elegant restaurant right on the Seine serves
finely prepared gastronomic French cuisine. Chef Jean-Pierre Vigato is at the helm of this establishment and desserts are by Christophe Michalak. Private dining rooms may be reserved as well. Tues-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 51 Quai des Grands Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.68.04. Metro: Saint-Michel
La Tour d’Argent - Classic French (€€€€€)
A Paris institution from another era, now with only one star, but still offering its famous numbered pressed duck and an absolutely magical view of Notre-Dame. Tues-Sat L&D. 15-17 Quai de la Tournelle (5th), 01.43.54.23.31. Metro: Maubert-Mutualité
Le Select - Brasserie (€€)
This all time favourite in the Montparnasse neighbourhood is a great place for drinks, traditional fare and people watching. Enjoy classics like French onion soup, a Niçoise salad or lamb chops with fresh herbs in a 1920s interior. Sun-Tues 7am-2pm, Fri & Sat until 3am. 99 blvd du Montparnasse (6th), 01.45.48.38.24 . Metro: Vavin
Relais Louis XIII - Classic French (€€€€)
In a wood-beamed medieval townhouse, this 1-star restaurant serves delicious dishes revolving around seasonal products. Fine wine list. Tue-Sat, L&D. 8 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.75.96. Metro: Saint-Michel
Ze Kitchen Galerie - Fusion (€€)
Ze silly name aside, chef William Ledeuil’s chic 1-star restaurant offers excellent soups, marinated fish, pasta starters and main courses a la plancha. Mon-Fri L&D,. 4 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.44.32.00.32. Metro: Saint-Michel
aROund The eIffel TOweR & leS InvalIdeS (7th) Arpège - Contemporary (€€€€€)
Three-star chef Alain Passard’s menu is now half vegetarian serving ravioli with vegetables, Cévennes onions with Parmesan, and his famous tomato dessert - though carnivores can find dishes like squab with sugared almonds. Mon-Fri L&D. 84 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.47.05.09.06. Metro: Varenne
L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon - Bistronomy (€€€)
The 2-star lunch-counter restaurant of chef Joel Robuchon serves contemporary French dishes such as a foie gras burger. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 5 rue Montalembert (7th), 01.42.22.56.56. Metro: Rue du Bac
Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above
Hélène Darroze | SOuThweSTeRn fRenCh (6th)
L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon | BISTROnOMy (7th) w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 67
dining
Address Book Jules Verne - Haute Cuisine (€€€€)
This gastronomic gem in the Eiffel Tower is one of the great gourmet destinations in the French capital. Today with the leading chef Frédéric Anton at the helm, the menu revolves around noble products like truffles, crab, crayfish, high quality farm poultry and chocolate. Treat yourself to “haute-cuisine” with the most spectacular view of Paris. Daily L&D. Eiffel Tower, 2nd floor (7th), 01.45.55.61.44. Metro: Bir-Hakeim
Les Ombres - Contemporary (€€€€) The spectacular glass-domed rooftop restaurant of Musée du Quai Branly, directly beneath the Eiffel Tower. Contemporary French with an exotic touch: foie gras terrine with mango chutney, mushroom pasta and duck breast with cherry sauce. Daily L&D. 27 Quai Branly (7th), 01.47.53.68.00. Metro: Alma-Marceau
Le Récamier - Classic French
(€€)
This quintessential Parisian restaurant nestled on a quiet pedestrian street serves traditional French cuisine. Starters include homemade foie gras while a favourite main is the beef filet in pepper sauce. But the house is famous for its fine selection of soufflés, both sweet and savoury. Daily L&D, continuous service. 4 rue Récamier (7th), 01.45.48.86.58. Metro: Sèvres-Babylone
aROund The ChaMPS-elySéeS (8th) 114 Faubourg - Brasserie
(€€€)
An elegant 1-star establishment in the Bristol Hotel proffers superb cooking from three-star chef Eric Frechon in a delightful duplex space. Daily, L&D. 114 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th) , 01.53.43.44.44. Metro: Miromesnil
39V - Contemporary (€€€) This glamorous one-star restaurant, in the heart of the Golden Triangle, sports a modern, streamlined décor. The fish dishes are excellent as is the cheesecake. Mon-Fri L&D. 39 ave George V (8th), 01.56.62.30.05. Metro: George V
Apicius - Contemporary (€€€€) The one-star restaurant of chef Jean-Pierre Vigato, offering a mix of modern and country cooking: lobster ravioli, potato charlotte with caviar. Mon-Sat L&D. 20 rue d’Artois (8th), 01.43.80.19.66. Metro: SaintPhilippe-du-Roule
Epicure - Gourmet (€€€€€) The beautiful dining room looks out over the hotel’s French garden and is a perfect setting for three-star chef Eric Frechon’s remarkable cuisine. Daily B, L&D. Hôtel Le Bristol, 112 rue du Fbg SaintHonoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. Metro: Miromesnil
Ladurée Champs-Elysées - French Pastries (€€)
Every day from 7.30 am to midnight, Ladurée serves breakfast, lunch, tea time and dinner. On the ground floor the “Eiffel Veranda” as well as the outdoor terrace overlook the glamorous Avenue des Champs-Elysées. 75 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt
Laurent - Gourmet (€€€€)
This gourmet 1-star Michelin restaurant serving sophisticated cuisine in a beautiful setting with a garden is a Parisian institution. The finest produce and products are used to prepare seasonal French cuisine with a contemporary touch. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 41 ave Gabriel (8th), 01.42.25.00.39. Metro: Champs-Elysées Clemenceau
Lasserre - Classic French (€€€€)
Chef Michel Roth serves an authentic and refined cuisine revolving around fresh produce in this historic one-star restaurant with its gliding sunroof ceiling. Tues-Sat D only, Thu-Fri L. 17 ave F. Delano Roosevelt (8th), 01.43.59.02.13. Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt
Le Camondo - Contemporary (€€€)
This delightful restaurant in a private mansion is adjacent to the museum of the same name. The menu changes with the seasons and can include a crab and grapefruit salad for starters followed by filet of duck breast with figs. There are a host of homemade pastries for dessert. Tues-Sat L&D, Sun L only. 61bis rue de Monceau (8th), 01.45.63.40.40. Metro: Villiers
Le Clarence -Gourmet (€€€€€)
This beautifully appointed 2-star restaurant in a majestic private mansion, the Hôtel Dillon, serves the finest in French gastronomy in an 18th century setting. The prix-fixe menus revolve around carefully prepared classical French dishes made with seasonal products and the restaurant has an exceptional wine list. Wed-Sat L&D, Tues D only. 31 ave Franklin D. Roosevelt (8th), 01.82.82.10.10. Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt
Pavillon Ledoyen - Gourmet (€€€€€)
This 3-star restaurant in an elegant 18th-century pavilion with a Napoleon III decor in the gardens of the Champs-Elysées, where chef Yannick Alléno serves his unique gastronomic cuisine. Daily D. Carré des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.05.10.00. Metro: Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau
Les Confidences du San Régis - French
(€€€)
In the chic 8th arrondissement just a few steps from the Avenue des Champs-Elysées is where you will find Hôtel San Régis’s cosy winter garden restaurant. Under an illuminating glass roof guests are invited to sample French dishes including duck foie gras and a scallops millefeuilles. Tues-Fri L&D,
Mon L only. 12 rue Jean-Goujon (8th), 01.44.95.16.16. M˚ Champs-Elysées-Clémenceau
Monsieur - French (€€€€) This contemporary hotel restaurant serves authentic French cuisine inspired by the countryside. The menu changes every month, with a different region celebrated and served up using the freshest ingredients. Mon-Fri L&D. Hotel Lancaster, 7 rue de Berri (8th), 01.40.76.40.18. Metro: George V
Maison Blanche - Contemporary (€€€€) Chef Fabrice Giraud prepares savoury and refined fare that changes with the seasons. Located on the 7th floor of the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées, the restaurant with its garden terrace overlooks the Eiffel Tower. Mon-Fri L&D/Sat L. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.55.99. Metro: Alma Marceau
Manko Paris - Peruvian (€€) This charming Peruvian restaurant serves up authentic fare in a beautiful setting. Try specialities like the causa, a mashed potatoes dish seasoned with lime and chilli peppers, ceviches or ember oven-cooked dishes like jumbo prawns flavoured with Nikkei marinade and served with grilled shitake mushrooms. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.82.28.00.15. Metro: Alma-Marceau
aROund OPéRa gaRnIeR & PIgalle (9th, 10th, 18th) CoCo - Contemporary (€€€) This delightful restaurant in the Garnier Opera House serves delicious contemporary cuisine in a refined atmosphere. Starters include tuna tataki and sea bream tartar while good mains include filet of cod and a French-style veal chop served with mashed potatoes. And for dessert enjoy an Opéra pastry, thin sheets of chocolate filled with a coffee cream. Daily B, L & D. Palais Garnier, 1 Place Jacques Rouché (9th), 01.42.68.86 80. Metro: Opéra
Friends & Family -Bistro (€€) This charming Parisian restaurant offers up classic French, seasonal fare in a warm and welcoming atmosphere. Tues-Fri L&D Sat D only. 18 Cité Bergère (9th), 01.45.23.33.33. Metro: Bonne Nouvelle
Le Scribe - Gourmet (€€€) Enjoy lunch, dinner or tea beneath a magnificent glass roof in this lovely place. There are champagne and cheese trolleys and the dessert trolley filled with traditional French pastries like éclairs and millefeuilles is a fine ending to a meal and a good reason to stop in for high tea. Daily L&D. Hôtel Scribe,1 rue Scribe (9th), 01.44.71.74.20. Metro: Opéra
Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & D: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Le Camondo | COnTeMPORaRy (8th) 68 W HE RE Pa r i s I F E B R UAR Y 2020
Le Bar à Huîtres | SeafOOd (14th)
dining
Address Book aROund BaSTIlle (11th, 12th) Le Train Bleu - Classic French (€€€)
A magnificent, mirrored Belle Epoque restaurant in the Gare de Lyon train station serving classic French fare including lobster salad with artichokes, sole meunière and steak tartare. Daily B, L&D. Gare de Lyon, Place Louis Armand (12th), 01.43.43.09.06. Metro: Gare de Lyon
Les Grandes Marches - Brasserie (€€)
A new ownership and a new décor have come to this pillar of the Place de la Bastille. The establishment serves up traditional French fare and superb seafood platters. Daily B, L&D. 6 Place de la Bastille (12th), 01.43.42.90.32. Metro: Bastille
Ober Mamma - Italian (€)
Homemade pizzas and pastas with ingredients from Italy are the hallmarks of this trattoria style restaurant with its friendly and energetic staff. Enjoy fresh pasta, made on the premises, with creamy pecorino cheese sauce, black pepper and artichokes and savour an authentic tiramisu for dessert. Daily L&D. 107 blvd Richard Lenoir (11th), 01.58.30.62.78. Metro: Oberkampf
Septime - Classic French
(€€€)
Traditional French fare featuring inventive marketbased cuisine from the talented one-star Bertrand Grébaut is on the agenda here. Enjoy selective produce and products like the Banka trout from the Basque country with lentils and coriander in a relaxed atmosphere. Tues-Fri L, D, Mon D only. 80 rue de Charonne (11th), 01.43.67.38.29. Metro: Charonne
aROund MOnTPaRnaSSe (13th, 14th, 15th) Au Petit Marguery - Bistro (€€)
An authentic old fashioned bistro serving great seasonal game dishes as well as excellent traditional cuisine including filet of beef Rossini, veal tartar with estragon and the house’s signature Grand Marnier soufflé. Mon-Sun L&D. 9 blvd de Port-Royal (13th), 01.43.31.58.59. Metro: Gobelins
La Coupole - Brasserie (€€)
This vast landmark brasserie has been serving traditional fare in a beautiful art deco setting since 1927. The house’s big seafood platters and lamb curry are always a sure bet. Mon 8am-11pm, Tues-Fri 8 am-midnight, Sat 8:30am-midnight, Sun 8:30am-11pm. 102 blvd du Montparnasse (14th), 01.43.20.14.20. Metro: Vavin
Le Bar à Huîtres - Seafood (€€€)
This is the place to go for fabulous seafood platters, finely prepared fresh fish dishes and one of the
best and most eclectic selections of oysters in the French capital. Main course dishes include French sea bass, lobster from Brittany and filet of beef. Daily, noon-midnight. 112 blvd Montparnasse (14th), 01.43.20.71.01. Metro: Vanvin
Le Ciel de Paris - Gourmet (€€€)
Discover Paris from the 56th floor of the Montparnasse tower. With a breathtaking view, enjoy one of their foie gras offerings or try the delicious seafood. Daily B, L&D. 33 ave du Maine (15th), 01.40.64.77.64. Metro: Montparnasse
Benkay - Japanese (€€€)
This restaurant with a superb view on to the Seine serves authentic Japanese cuisine including teppanyaki prepared right in front of you on hotplates with the dishes being served just seconds after being flambéed. You can enjoy a teppanyaki revolving around beef or lobster, for example, served with steaming fried rice. Daily L & D. 61 Quai de Grenelle (15th), 01.40.58.21.26. Metro: Dupleix
TROCadéRO & PORTe MaIllOT (16th, 17th) Cristal Room Baccarat - Modern Classic (€€€)
This beautifully appointed restaurant located in the Parisian headquarters of the crystal manufacturer serves contemporary and classic fare. Starters can include a salad of green beans with foie gras flavoured with hazel nut vinegar and for a main savour a turbot prepared meunière style. Mon-Sat L&D. 11 Place des Etats-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.10. Metro: Boissière
L’Abeille - Gourmet (€€€€€)
This 2-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel offers up sophisticated fare in a beautiful setting. Chef Christophe Moret elaborates a carefully sourced original menu in tune with the seasons. Starters can include preserved duck foie gras with sweet and sour cherries while a seasonal main is the line caught sea bass served with cauliflower and brioche. Tues-Sat D only. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.90. Metro: Iéna
La Scène Thélème - Gourmet (€€€€)
This one-star restaurant serves refined French food made with the finest of seasonal products and is outfitted with a theatre where you can enjoy a show before dinner. Starters can include sea scallops marinated in saké and garnished with local cabbage served kimchi style followed by, for example, duck from the Challans region with plums for two. The highly original desserts include pumpkin with ginger yoghurt. Tues-Fri L, Tues-Sat D. 18 rue Troyon (17th), 01.77.37.60.99. Metro: Ternes
L’Oiseau Blanc - Classic French (€€€)
This restaurant, bar and terrace on the top
floor of the Peninsula hotel features traditional French dishes with a contemporary twist using regional products. Daily L&D. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.30. Metro: Charles de Gaulle-Etoile
Makassar - Contemporary (€€)
Savor a contemporary and stylish home-made French cuisine with seasonal products. Free cocktail school & DJ set By Urban People from Monday to Saturday. Daily B, L&D. 39 ave de Wagram (17th), 01.55.37.55.57. Metro: Wagram
Shang Palace - Chinese (€€€)
This one-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel serves authentic Chinese cuisine inspired by the culinary traditions of southeast China. The art of Cantonese fine dining comes to life in the main room and three private dining rooms. Thurs-Mon, L&D. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.92. Metro: Iéna
BellevIlle (19th, 20th) Au Boeuf Couronne - Classic French (€€)
Unique in its genre, this restaurant remains one of the city’s temples to red meat with 16 cuts of beef available in various sizes. Prime rib, filets of Charolais beef, veal kidneys and homemade potatoes are all superb. The upstairs dining room can be reserved for private parties. Daily L&D. 188 ave Jean Jaurès (19th), 01.42.39.44.44. Metro: Porte de Pantin
Mama Shelter Paris - Contemporary (€€)
This restaurant features simple fare in a warm and welcoming setting. For starters there is a nice lentil salad while main courses include Black Angus steak with a pepper sauce. Daily B, L & D, brunch is served on Sundays in place of lunch. 109 rue de Bagnolet (20th), 01.43.48.48.48. Metro: Gambetta
SuBuRBS nOT TOO faR fROM PaRIS Ma Cocotte - Bistro (€€€)
This sleek Philippe Stark designed bistro in the Saint-Ouen Flea Market serves up mainly traditional French fare. For starters sample the marinated salmon and for a main course a prime rib of beef or a rack of lamb. Daily L&D. 106 rue des Rosiers, SaintOuen, 01.49.51.70.00. Metro: Porte de Clignancourt
ReminiSens - Classic French
(€€€€)
This restaurant nestled in a Baroque ambiance is a gastronomic journey into the 17th and 18th centuries. The menu offers recipes of the age of the kings of France while actors in Baroque costumes tell you the secrets of the French court at your table. Three gastronomic theme menus revolving around the hunt, fish and the market garden are on offer. Dinner only Wed-Sat. 20 rue Baillet Reviron, 78000 Versailles, 06.71.67.02.86. RER C to Versailles Rive Gauche Château de Versailles stop
Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above
Benkay | JaPaneSe (15th)
Shang Palace | ChIneSe (16th) w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 69
The Guide
By Sandra Iskander
entertainment
Sip on signature cocktails at Bar 8 (page 73)
70 W HE RE Pa R I S I F e B R Ua R Y 2020
Bar 8 Š Alexis Anice
Concerts | Cocktail Bars | Pop-Up Bars | Events | Cabarets | Wine Bars
entertainment Concerts
Madonna in Paris She is known for her energetic performances and over-the-top productions and now the Queen of Pop is bringing her Madame X Tour to the French capital. Madonna will be performing 14 shows starting from the 20th of February at the Grand Rex theatre for what promises to be an unmissable event for her fans. The unstoppable Material Girl will be performing songs from her latest album as well as some of her greatest hits. More shows are scheduled for next month. Tickets at Fnac. - S.I.
Madonna wearing Burberry Photo courtesy Burberry; James Blunt credit Gavin Bond
Grand Rex 1 blvd Poissonnière (2nd), 01 45 08 93 89
Blunt in Concert British singer and songwriter James Blunt is known for his poetic love songs and on the 27th of this month he is bringing his smooth voice to Zenith Paris – La Villette to seduce the City of Romance before performing around the country in Marseille, Lyon and Strasbourg. The Once Upon a Mind tour will see the crooner perform songs from his latest studio album, with the same name, as well as some of his award-winning hits. Tickets available at Fnac. - S.I. Zenith Paris – La Villette 211 ave Jean Jaurès (19th), 01 44 52 54 56 w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 71
entertainment Bars
In a Bubble Floating above the French capital in a bubble? That’s how most people feel about being in Paris and now you can literally be in a bubble overlooking the city from the first-floor terrace of the Eiffel Tower. Until the month of April, La Bulle Parisienne offers visitors, and Parisians, an exceptional experience that sees you toasting Paris from high above with a glass of French wine in hand under a giant, transparent, dome. During the opening hours of the Eiffel Tower, La Bulle Parisienne is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, though the best “meal” is cocktail hour when you can sip on French wine courtesy of Winerie Parisienne, the first urban winery in Paris, and watch the City of Light twinkle beneath you. Queues to go up the Eiffel Tower tend to be long, so plan your wine time by getting there early and/or book your ticket online. - S.I.
Bullseye! You’re good at shooting darts, but how good are you really? Paris’s new bar, Les Petites Flèches, lets you show off your aiming skills with its connected dartboards, which keep track of your scores, and replays the best, and worst, shots. The bar serves beer on tap and original cocktails, including L’Invincible, to really test your aim and see how well you score a bullseye at cocktail hour. This a fun way to let out your competitive spirit and do Happy Hour differently. - S.I. Les Petites Flèches 49 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud (11th), 01 43 55 65 89 72 W HE RE Pa ris I f e br UA R Y 2020
La Bulle Parisienne © Alexandre Nestora
La Bulle Parisienne First Floor Eiffel Tower Ave Gustave Eiffel (7th), 01 83 77 70 58
entertainment Bars
Enchanted Cocktails
Bar 8 photo © Alexis Anice
Every season the Bar 8 terrace at the Mandarin Oriental, Paris hotel goes through a makeover and this season it has become an enchanted forest as only a luxury hotel in Paris can create. Birch and pine trees encircle the terrace, creating a chic and somewhat secluded space, albeit nestled in the heart of the hotel, with fairy lights adding to the magic. In collaboration with Glenfiddich, the bar’s head barman, Judicaël Noël, has created an ephemeral cocktail menu to match the terrace atmosphere, with a standout drink from the menu being the Enchanted Blend, which mixes 12-year-old single malt Glenfiddich with mulled wine and aperol.- S.I. Bar 8 251 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 70 98 78 88
advertorial
A Wonderful World of Whisky Established in 1956, La Maison du Whisky is one of the most renowned French specialists in fine whisky and spirits. Our historic boutique first opened in 1968 at the 20 rue d’Anjou address in Paris. A magnificent shop just off the place de la Madeleine, the wooden shelves are mainly dedicated to malts with over 2,500 different labels. Guided by our knowledgeable advisors, connoisseurs as well as beginners can browse through Scottish or Japanese single malts, Irish single pot stills, American single barrels, craft distilleries and many others from around the world. Experts can also discover extremely old and rare bottlings for their collection. With the broadening of our selection to other spirits, the & Fine Spirits boutique was opened in the Saint-Germain-des-Prés area of Paris. The three floors offer a selection of 1,500 bottles of whisky, cognac, calvados, armagnac, tequila, mezcal, cachaça, vodka, gin, liqueurs, grappa, vermouth, sake… La Maison du Whisky 20 rue d’Anjou, 75008 Paris & Fine Spirits 6 Carrefour de l’Odéon, 75006 Paris www.whisky.fr/boutiques w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 73
entertainment Events
Bond...
Grand Rex, iStock 2019 © Marco Rosario Venturini Autieri
James Bond is taking over the Grand Rex for an unforgettable evening with the famous spy, or rather the music that accompanied 007 throughout his action-filled career. Book yourself in for an evening of award-winning music courtesy of 50 musicians from the Colonne and Musidrama orchestras and two singers performing all the hit songs from the James Bond franchise of movies. Each Bond movie is known for its theme song, with big name artists contributing to the long list of hits, including Shirley Bassey, Tina Turner and Adele who won the Academy Award for Best Original Song for Skyfall. The Bond Symphonique concerts, held on the 14th and 15th of February, promise to be quite the original musical event, not to be missed by not only movie buffs but also concertgoers who enjoy grandiose productions as this has the recipe for being so with an orchestra, a heritage theatre and songs by Madonna, Paul McCartney and Tom Jones..- S.I. Grand Rex 1 blvd Poissonnière (2nd), 01 45 08 93 89 ADVERTORIAL
“Learning to be French through Comedy” As tourists or expats in Paris there are some quirks we have all noticed among the Parisians, the way they march to their destinations, their constant pouting and the way they order at restaurants. Olivier Giraud has too, noticed that the Parisians are unique in their behaviour, and has decided to bring all those idiosyncrasies to light
B
orn in Bordeaux, Olivier moved to Paris to study hotel management and after graduating he moved to the United States where he managed a restaurant of a 5-star hotel. After four years, and many soul-searching nights, he decided to return to France and follow his real dream of becoming a comedian.
Having experienced the cultural differences between the Parisians and Americans while in Florida, and having observed for himself the tourists of all nationalities in Paris, he decided to not shy away from the hardhitting questions of how one becomes a real Parisian. How do you grab a waiter’s attention in a café? In the metro, what do you do if you see an older lady or a pregnant woman? And how do you behave in a cab? 74 W HE RE Pa ris I f e br UA R Y 2020
Putting together a one man show, How to become a Parisian in one hour?, the stand-up comic will leave you rolling in your seat from laughter and 100% prepared for any situation in the City of Light. The ultimate Parisian theatre experience created by Olivier Giraud! Enjoyed by more than 800 000 spectators, this show is much more than a stand-up comedy! It’s a hilarious, incisive and visual observation of the Parisian behaviour! Performed 100% in English all year round in one of the most beautiful Italian Renaissance style theatres (600 seats) located in the lively heart of Paris... Ohlala! Non-stop laughter from a real Parisian guaranteed to leave you wanting more. This is THE PERFECT GUIDE to enjoy Paris and the Parisians!
SMASH HIT SHOW 100% IN ENGLISH FROM WEDNESDAY TO SATURDAY @ 7PM
BOOKING
24 Blvd Poissonnière (9 th) M° Grands Boulevards Theater with air conditioning
www.oliviergiraud.com or +33 (0) 6 98 57 45 98 Rated BEST THEATER PERFORMANCE
Not recommended for kids under 16 years old
entertainment
Cabarets Le Moulin Rouge
CRAZY HORSE
LIDO
A legendary cabaret synonymous with beauty, elegance, sensuality and sophistication. A show performed by 19 exceptionally beautiful dancers, bathed in richly coloured and textured lighting designs. The current show is inspired by the endless theme of femininity . Sun-Fri at 8:15 & 10:45 pm, Sat at 7:00, 9:30 & 11:45 pm.
The current show, Paris Merveilles, is a wonderful song-and-dance spectacular journey into Paris with stunning sets and 600 dazzling costumes. Daily.
French Cancan Danseuse ©Moulin Rouge® - photo S.Bertrand
www.lecrazyhorseparis.com 12 ave George V (8th), 01 47 23 32 32 M° Alma-Marceau
MOULIN ROUGE This famous cabaret is home to the original cancan. The current show, Féerie, sparkles with talented performers, including the 60 Doriss girls and spectacular staging. Daily. www.moulinrouge.fr 82 blvd de Clichy (18th), 01 53 09 82 82 M° Blanche
www.lido.fr 116bis ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 40 76 56 10 M° George V
PARADIS LATIN Le Théâtre Latin was built in 1803 and quickly became one of the chicest addresses in the Latin quarter. The theatre was re-built by Gustav Eiffel in 1889 and renamed the Paradis Latin. The current show, Oiseau Paradis, is directed and choreographed by Kamel Ouali and stars Iris Mittenaere, the former Miss France and Miss Universe, as the leader of the show. This magical feast for the eyes and ears features over 330 costumes and 15 exceptional sets. Daily 8 pm. www.paradislatin.com 28 rue du Cardinal Lemoine (5th), 01 43 25 28 28 M° Cardinal Lemoine/Jussieu
A call to awaken you r senses...
27 Avenue des Ternes 75017 Paris Tel : +33 (0) 1 47 66 45 00 www.secretsquare.fr
Restaurant 8:30pm - 12:15am Cabaret 10pm - 4am Closed on sundays and mondays w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 75
Address Book
entertainment For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris bars & wine bars Badaboum
Located a few minutes from the Place de la Bastille, this fun bar offers excellent and original cocktails. The bar also features a small but very good snacking menu. 2bis rue des Taillandiers (11th), 01.48.06.50.70. Metro: Bastille
Buddha-Bar
This trend-setting cocktail bar and restaurant attracts both fashionistas and curious tourists, with a giant golden Buddha presiding over the scene and service that’s cooler-than-thou. 8 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 01.53.05.90.00. Metro: Concorde
Bar du Plaza Athénée
Absolute chic, with a decor that includes an impressive sculpted glass bar. 6pm-1:30am. 25 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.67.66.00. Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt
Bar Le Baudelaire
This congenial bar in the Burgundy hotel is akin to an English club. Discover a host of creative cocktails. 6-8 rue Duphot (1st), 01.42.60.34.12. Metro: Madeleine
Experimental Cocktail Bar
A fun bar hidden in the heart of the 2nd arrondissement where you can enjoy delicious cocktails and cool music. 37 rue Saint Sauveur (2nd), 01.45.08.88.09. Metro: Sentier
Harry’s New York Bar
This landmark establishment is a fine place to enjoy drinks at the roomy and frendly bar. The traditional cocktail spot also serves up live piano music starting at 10pm. 5 rue Daunou (2nd), 01.42.61.71.14. Metro: Opéra
Hotel Costes Bar
This chic bar and lounge is an ideal and pricey Parisian spot for people watching in a sumptuous décor. 239 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.44.50.00. Metro: Tuileries
Ice Kube Paris
The decoration is frozen into ice and the cocktails are served in solid ice glasses, so prepare yourself to face the frozen world of this -12°C bar. 1 Passage Ruelle (18th), 01.42.05.20.00. Metro: La Chapelle & Marx Dormoy
Juveniles
This cosy and welcoming wine bar serves up fine French wines as well as wines from around the world and you can purchase bottles to take away. 47 rue de Richelieu (1st), 01.42.97.46.49. Metro: Pyramides
Kléber Bar | bars & wine bars 76 W HE RE Pa ris I f e br UA R Y 2020
Kléber Bar
High ceilings, ornate décor and fine service are hallmarks of this elegant bar in the Peninsula Hotel. Classic cocktails, signature mixes and a fine selection of wines and champagnes are all on the menu. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.78. Metro: Boissière
La Maison du Whisky
This magnificent shop just off the place de la Madeleine is mainly dedicated to malts and carries over 2,500 different labels. Guided by the house’s knowledgeable advisors, connoisseurs as well as beginners can browse through Scottish or Japanese single malts, Irish single pot stills, American single barrels, craft distilleries and many others from around the world. 6 Carrefour de l’Odéon (8th), 01.46.34.70.20. M° Odéon
Le Bristol Bar
bridges, this restaurant and bar has become a favourite with the city’s fun crowd, where they can go and enjoy great cocktails and say “santé” with each round. Quai de l’Horloge (1st), 06.30.15.83.02. Metro: Pont Neuf
Les Ambassadeurs
Where once stood the Michelin-starred restaurant at the Hôtel de Crillon is now the hotel’s bar and lounge, Les Ambassadeurs, where under gleaming chandeliers and a painted blue sky with romantic floating clouds guests can settle in for a very chic cocktail hour. 10 Place de la Concorde (8th), 01.44.71.15.80. Metro: Concorde
Moonshiner
This speakeasy bar near the Place de la Bastille has an ambiance straight out of the 1920s complete with jazz music playing in the background. 5 rue Sedaine (11th), 09.50.73.12.99. Metro: Bréguet-Sabin
This discreet and elegant spot is ideal for enjoying cosy drinks including a variety of original cocktails and a fine selection of champagnes. 112 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. Metro: Miromesnil
Prescription Cocktail Club
Le Bar Long
This sophisticated cocktail bar, frequented by the beautiful people of the city, serves up carefully mixed drinks in cosy seated areas. 58 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 09.54.37.13.65. Metro: Les Halles
This posh bar located in the Royal Monceau is a perfect spot for a sophisticated cocktail or nightcap in a cosy setting. 37 ave Hoche (8th), 01.42.99.88.00. Metro: Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile
This trendy bar is excellent for delicious and original cocktails with cool music, friendly staff and tequila. 23 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.45.08.88.09. Metro: Mabillon
The Ballroom
casino
La Closerie des Lilas
The bar of this mythical place remains magical. Thankfully some things don’t change. 171 blvd du Montparnasse (6th), 01.40.51.34.50. Metro: Vavin
Le Dokhan’s Champagne Bar
A stunning hotel bar replete with Louis Vuitton elevator featuring a fine selection of rare and classic champagnes. In the Radisson Blu Le Dokhan’s Hotel. 117 rue Lauriston (16th), 01.53.65.66.99. Metro: Victor Hugo
Club Impérial
Located inside the Galerie Masséna with its own entrance, this private gaming club offers 20 gaming tables for playing Baccarat, Poker 21, Stud Poker, Ultimate Poker and Omaha Poker among others. There is a Franco-Asian bar and restaurant with a snacking menu on the premises. Open daily from 6pm to 5am. 23 ave Ivry (13th), 01.76.21.20.00. Metro: Porte de Choisy
Le Lucien Bar
Every detail here is perfect from the temperature of the vintage white port to the dimensions of the glasses for gin and tonic. Hotel Fouquet’s Barrière. 46 ave George V (8th), 01.40.69.60.00. Metro: George V
Le Rubis
This quintessential Parisian wine bar attracts a local clientele into its relaxed atmosphere where you can enjoy wines from the Beaujolais and Burgundy regions among others. 10 rue du Marché SaintHonoré (1st), 01.42.61.03.34. Metro: Pyramides
Les Jardins du Pont Neuf
With a stunning view of the City of Light’s famous
jazz clubs Caveau de la Huchette
This club in a vaulted cellar in the heart of the Latin Quarter has been showcasing fine jazz music for the past six decades. The spot is rife with history, a Masonic lodge in the 18th century, the Knights Templar held meetings at this location in the Middle Ages. 5 rue de la Huchette (5th), 01.43.26.65.05. Metro: Saint-Michel
Duc des Lombards
One of Paris’ oldest jazz clubs magnificently renovated by Andrée Putman’s collaborator, the talented Elliot Barnes. The Duc also boasts one
Bar Le Baudelaire | bars & wine bars
entertainment
Address Book
of the best sound-systems in town and is now known as the House of Jazz. Daily performances, live recordings and a healthy mix of jazz man jams make this the address for Jazz. 42 rue des Lombards (1st), 01.42.33.22.88. Metro: Châtelet
Jazz Club Etoile
A true temple to jazz since it opened in 1975, the club has welcomed the likes of Count Basie, B.B. King, Cab Calloway and Lionel Hampton. TuesSat. 81 blvd Gouvion Saint-Cyr (17th), 01.40.68.30.42. Metro: Porte Maillot
New Morning
The legendary Parisian venue for jazz both classic and eclectic has hosted the world’s jazz greats for two decades: Art Blakey, Dizzy Gillespie, Stan Getz... Devoted jazz fans come here to listen to two hours of solid music and the crowd begins to accumulate around 8 pm, so come early. 7-9 rue des Petites-Ecuries (10th), 01.45.23.51.41. Metro: Château d’Eau
gentlemen’s clubs
Le Mona Lisa
Just footsteps from the Louvre this friendly and festive club brings in the fashion crowd and plenty of Parisian trendsetters. The chic and arty clientele enjoys a programme of hip-hop, rock and a touch of electro pop. The establishment also boasts a restaurant . Tues-Sat 8pm-6am. 47 rue Berger (1st), 01 40 13 12 12. Metro: Louvre-Rivoli
Le Montana
This nightclub in the heart of the Saint-Germaindes-Prés neighbourhood is one of the capital’s trendiest and most select spots. The bar is on the ground floor and the dance floor, downstairs, in the vaulted cellars. 28 rue Saint Benoît (6th), 01.44.39.71.00. Metro: Saint-Germain-des-Prés
Le Social Club
Trendy spot for enjoying excellent live music, tasty drinks and even a cigarette in the club’s smoking room. 142 rue Montmartre (2nd), 06.84.80.99.40. Metro: Bourse
Les Bains
Pink Paradise
The first table-dancing show in Paris and where everyone who still wants to party goes after all the other clubs are done for the night. Daily 10.30 pm-6 am. 36 rue de Ponthieu (8th), 06.34.57.40.19. Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt
Secret Square
The French capital’s glamorous restaurant and club is where clients are treated to a sexy striptease show thanks to the dancers performing in a jewel-box décor. The show features 20 to 30 dancers and guests are treated to an unforgettable show. 27 ave des Ternes (17th) , 01.47.66.45.00. Metro: Ternes
night clubs L’Arc Paris
Favoured by French and international celebrities, enjoy cocktails and fine music with a gorgeous view of the Arc de Triomphe. The club has a great dance floor in black and white veined marble, a fumoir and VIP loges. Thurs-Sat 11pm-5am. 12 rue de Presbourg (16th), 06.59.21.32.44. Metro: Charles de Gaulle Etoile
Le Duplex
(16th), 01.45.00.45.00. Metro: Charles de Gaulle Etoile
Regulars appreciate the clubby and friendly atmosphere at this comfortable Parisian club replete with gastronomic restaurant whose cosy atmosphere is highlighted by Chesterfield armchairs. The huge dance floor in the discoteque is a dancer’s dream. 2bis ave Foch
This club, in the hotel of the same name, is one of the places to be for a slice of great Parisian nightlife. The venue hosts live shows, concerts as well as resident and guest DJs featuring hip-hop, soul and tunes from the 1970s taking guests back into the club’s glory days. Tues-Sat, midnight until dawn. 7 rue du Bourg-l’Abbé (3rd), 01.42.77.07.07. Metro: Rambuteau
Medellin
This festive cocktail lounge and private club with a colourful South American ambiance offers some 50 different varieties of tequila and can boast the most expensive mojito in town. Live music from groups straight out of South America perform in the first part of the evening followed by DJ sets. Open 7 days a week from 7pm until 5am. 6 ave Marceau (8th), 06.69.72.79.79. Metro: Alma-Marceau
Pachamama
This delightful dinner-club spread out over four beautifully decorated floors in a 19th century building by Gustave Eiffel is just footsteps away from the Bastille. Enjoy drinks, dinner or a DJ set in a festive South American ambiance. Features include a monumental Art Deco staircase, a ballroom, a restaurant showcasing Latin American specialties and a smoking room. Daily from 5pm. 46-48 rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine (12th), 01.55.78.84.75. Metro: Bastille
Palais Maillot
A luxurious nightclub known for its gala
Pachamama | night clubs
evenings. Fridays are fashion oriented while Saturdays feature guest DJs. Fri-Sat 11:30pm-6am. 2 Place Porte Maillot (17th), 01.58.56.20.55. Metro: Porte-Maillot
Raspoutine
This mythical Parisian venue remains an authentic night spot to enjoy cocktails and champagne in a splendid décor created by Erté. 58 rue Bassano (8th), 01.47.20.02.90. Metro: George V
Silencio
This private club, conceived and designed by David Lynch, offers excellent cocktails, wine and spirits, finger food and food tastings. Nonmembers are admitted after midnight. 142 rue de Montmartre (2nd), 01.40.13.12.33. Metro: Sentier
Vanity Paris
This sought-after venue offers hip-hop vibes in a luxurious setting where the champagne flows in every corner. Special soirées are held every night including Throwback Thursday for an old school style party. The door policy is strict so be sure to dress smart. Tues-Sat 11:30pm-6am. 25 rue de Richelieu (1st), 06 69 72 79 79. Metro: Pyramides
VIP Room
One of the most exclusive clubs on the Parisian nightlife scene, this chic haven for the rich and famous lets you dance the night away to hip hop and house music. 188 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.58.36.46.00. Metro: Palais Royal
magical & opera shows Le Bel Canto
Nestled on the banks of the Seine, this restaurant featuring food with a southern French and Italian flair brings you the luxury of dining while enjoying the music of, among others, Verdi, Rossini, Mozart, or Puccini performed by talented young singers from the conservatory of the Paris Opera. Daily D only from 7:30pm. 72 Quai de l’Hôtel de Ville (4th), 01.42.78.30.18. Metro: Pont Marie
Le Double Fond
This unique venue is dedicated to the world of magic. You can enjoy drinks or dinner at the bar or at your table served by waiters who are Englishspeaking magicians who perform tableside. Downstairs a host of unique, interactive and humorous magic shows are held from Wednesday to Sunday. 11 Place du Marché SainteCatherine (4th), 01.42.71.40.20. Metro: Saint-Paul
New Morning | jazz clubs w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 77
The Guide
services
For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris eurostar & trains
medical services
Eurostar - Aim to arrive at least 30 minutes
American Hospital of Paris - 63 blvd Victor Hugo,
before departure time or you will risk not being allowed to board the train. If you still need to pick up your ticket at the station you should arrive at least an hour before your scheduled departure. 08.92.35.35.39. www.eurostar.com
SNCF - TGV trains leave from varying stations (www.sncf.com). Thalys, links Paris to Brussels and Amsterdam (www.thalys.com). You can buy a ticket in any station for any destination; your ticket will indicate your departure station. Punch your ticket in the composteur before boarding your train or risk being fined.
limousines Biribin – Tel: 01.43.48.65.65 Chabé Limousines – Tel: 01.41.20.95.10 First Plaza – Tel: 01.58.62.57.47 Meet the French – Tel: 01.53.53.14.94 My Daily Driver – Tel: 01.43.24.28.15 Premier Limousine – Tel: 01.47.31.80.50
92200 Neuilly-sur-Seine, 01.46.41.25.25. M° Pont de Neuilly British American Pharmacy - 1 rue Auber (9th), 01.42.65.88.29. M° Opéra Pharmacie des Champs-Elysées (24/24) 84 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.02.41. M° Franklin Roosevelt Pharmacie Monge - 74 rue Monge (5th), 01.43.31.39.44. M° Place Monge
Paris districts
rental cars & scooters
Avis - Tel: 08.21.23.07.60, www.avis.fr Budget - Tel: 08.25.00.35.64, www.budget.fr First GT Location - Tel: 01.41.19.29.62, www.firstgtlocation.fr Freescoot - Tel: 01.44.07.06.72, www.freescoot.com Europcar - Tel: 08.25.35.83.58, www.europcar.fr Hertz - Tel: 08.25.86.18.61, www.hertz.fr
tax refund When shopping do not forget to claim back the taxes paid. Most boutiques require a minimum amount spent in the one day (and in the same store) before you can apply for the tax refund. Along with your payment simply show them your passport and ask them to fill in the detaxe form for you, which you will later need customs to stamp at the airport before flying off.
1st ARRONDISSEMENT - The Louvre museum housing the Mona Lisa overlooks the Tuileries Gardens. 2nd ARRONDISSEMENT - Rue Etienne Marcel and the Place des Victoires are lined with trendy boutiques. 3rd - 4th ARRONDISSEMENT - Orthodox Jews rub shoulders with the gay crowd in the Marais, the city’s oldest existing neighborhood. 5th ARRONDISSEMENT - Where you will find the young crowds hanging out at Place St Michel and on Rue Mouffetard, a lively market street.
hair salons
real estate agencies
6th ARRONDISSEMENT - The epitome of Left Bank intellectual chic, with luxury shops and famous cafés.
Alexandre de Paris - 3 ave Matignon (8th),
Barnes Paris - 120 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th),
7th ARRONDISSEMENT - Stroll the
01.42.25.57.90. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Carita - 11 Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.94.11.11. M° Concorde Christophe-Nicolas Biot - 52 rue Saint-André des Arts (6th), 01.43.26.58.21. M° Odéon Coiffirst - 52 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.07.11.01. M° Madeleine David Mallett - 14 rue Notre-Dame des Victoires (2nd), 01.40.20.00.23. M° Bourse Institut Leonor Greyl - 15 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.42.65.32.26. M° Madeleine L’instant 2moss - 5 Square de l’Opéra-Louis Jouvet (9th), 01.44.56.03.66. M° Madeleine Salon Konfidentiel - 267 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.61.05.35. M° Concorde Salon Rossano Ferretti - 4 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.60.31.95. M° Concorde
visitors Bureau Paris has a new welcome centre for visitors located right inside the City Hall. Reception teams, documentation, information on events, tours and outings, bookings and passes are all available at the Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau welcome centre. Visitors are welcome seven days a week in the main office located at 29 rue de Rivoli (4th), M° Hôtel de Ville. Also located at the Gare du Nord (10th) www.parisinfo.com
78 W HE RE Pa r i s I f e b r UAR Y 2020
01.85.34.70.70. M° Saint-Philippe-du-Roule Daniel Féau - 140 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.53.07.07. M° Saint-Philippe-du-Roule Emile Garcin - 24 rue du Boccador (8th), 01.58.12.02.02. M° Alma-Marceau Espaces Atypiques - 64 rue des Tournelles (3rd), 01.42.71.03.84. M° Bréguet-Sabin Philippe Menager & Nicolas Hug - 31 rue de Tournon (6th), 01.53.10.22.60. M° Mabillon Paris Attitude - 21 rue Vauvenargues (18th), 01.42.96.31.46. M° Richelieu-Drouot Sefri-Cime - 20 place de Catalogne (14th), 01.40.48.57.00. M° Gaité Vingt Paris - 253 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.44.55.09.80. M° Concorde
impeccable Champ de Mars, visit Napoleon’s tomb at Les Invalides and see the Impressionists at the Musée d’Orsay.
8th ARRONDISSEMENT - High fashion and galleries are on Avenue Montaigne and Rue St-Honoré, while the Place de la Madeleine offers gourmet food shops.
9th ARRONDISSEMENT - Find the
sumptuous Opéra Garnier, and the ever-busy department stores Galeries Lafayette and Printemps on the Boulevard Haussmann.
10th ARRONDISSEMENT - Take a boat tour for a closeup look at canal locks in action. The quais de Jemmapes and Valmy are where you will find fun boutiques and restaurants. 11th- 12th ARRONDISSEMENT - The areas around the Bastille come alive at night with nightclubs and bars. 13th - 14th - 15th ARRONDISSEMENT - The Tour Montparnasse is surrounded by traditional crepe restaurants while Chinatown is found near Place d’Italie. 16th - 17th ARRONDISSEMENT - The Place du Trocadéro offers a picture-perfect view of the Eiffel Tower.
18th ARRONDISSEMENT - Near the Sacré Coeur, portrait artists crowd around the Place du Tertre. Down the hill in Pigalle, watch the dancers at the Moulin Rouge. 19th - 20th ARRONDISSEMENT - Paris’s famous neighbourhood where you can pay your respects to Oscar Wilde and Jim Morrison at the Père Lachaise cemetery.
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SERVICES
Paris Metro
INFORMATIONS
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R.E.R. RapidTransit System
T1
Tramway
PARIS
Interchanges stations
◗ Paris is crossed by 14 Métro lines and five RER (express suburban) lines, all numbered and named for their final destination (terminus). Did you know that there are 300 stations that make up Paris’ metro system? ◗ Each Métro trip requires one ticket regardless of how many transfers you make, though you must buy an extra ticket for the RER outside the city limits. Keep your ticket until you exit.
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◗ Tickets are sold in all stations and in cafés (tabacs) with a ticket sign outside, single (1.90€/2€ if purchased on a bus) or by 10 (un carnet - 16.90€). This map includes the new tramway line.
◗ “Paris Visite” passes offer unlimited travel on the Métro and buses (1-day, 2-day, 3-day, 5-day). The Métro and RER start running at 5:30am, and stop around 1 am. ◗ While the Métro is an extremely safe way to travel, watch out for pickpockets in crowded trains and stations. For information in English, call the transportation company (RATP) directly at 08.92.68.41.14. 80 W HE RE Pa r i s i f e b r Ua r Y 2020
St-Ouen Mairie de Clichy
J. Auriol Charlebourg
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My Paris
Vincent CEDRATI
Head Concierge at La Maison Favart
Maison Favart
What would you recommend to visitors who are looking for 24 hours of romance in the City of Love? Have breakfast at La Maison Favart, walk around the Opera house to the Comédie Française and spend the day at the Louvre Museum with a lunch break at Loulou, then prolong your experience onboard a Bateaux-Mouches to discover the City of Light. What are your top 5 most romantic restaurants? Lassere, Verjus, Le Relais Louis XIII, Drouant, and Mori Venice Bar are the top five choices. In your opinion, what is the most romantic place in Paris? The garden of Palais Royal, a peaceful haven in Paris for me. Stroll around the arcades or just sit on the benches in the garden and let your dreams take you away.
s 82 W HE RE Pa r i s I F E B R UAR Y 2020
Sacré-Coeur
What has been the most romantic thing you have had to organise for a guest? A hot air balloon floating above the MontSaint-Michel during which the groomto-be proposes to his future fiancée with a departure in the morning by plane from Toussus le Noble and a picnic with champagne organised during the day. Is there somewhere in the city that surprised you in how romantic it is/or could be? In fact, everywhere is romantic in Paris and every day you can discover something new with a magical touch, because romantism is emotional and your five senses will be exacerbated. From where would you recommend a couple take in the best and most romantic view of Paris? I think Montmartre offers gorgeous views of Paris from in front of the Sacré-Coeur basilica.
Which boutique would you recommend if one of your guests were looking to purchase a special gift? Definitely Galeries Lafayette where you can find everything while strolling through its six floors. Which bar would you recommend for a romantic nightcap? Windo Skybar is one of my favourite bars when the city is sleeping, it is a terrific experience!
My Perfect Day 9am: Breakfast at Carette on Place du Trocadéro 12pm: Lunch at Café Stern in Passage Panorama 3pm: Try to find one original objet at Drouot 9pm: Musical concert at Opéra Garnier
where
®
Your Guide to the World
La Maison Favart DR; Palais Royal, istockphoto 2019 © BrendanHunter; Sacré-Coeur, istockphoto 2019 © golero; © Carette
Carette
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