Where Magazine Philadelphia Jan 2020

T R AV E L E R S K N O W W H E R E ™

PHILADELPHIA JAN

IMAGE©LEO SERRAT/UNSPLASH

2020

EXPLORE

CALENDAR

TO MARKET, TO MARKET

Philadelphia’s Neighborhoods in a nutshell

Ten great things to do this month

Historic Sites Get New Lives as Hubs of Dining, Retail and Art

CONTENTS

8 Cherry Street Pier, a center for art, dining and community.

ESSENTIALS Editor’s Note 2 Ask the Expert 4 Neighborhoods 12 Editors Tips 15 Maps 30 Parting Shot 32

THE GUIDE

Attractions 17 Shopping 21 Dining 23 Explore 28 Arts 29

(FROM TOP) ©MARIA YOUNG; ©C. SMYTH/VISIT PHILADELPHIA®

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Hot Dates This Month The city’s NHL home team faces off against rivals from Anaheim to New York at Wells Fargo Center.

One Block— Rittenhouse

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One of the city’s most sophisticated neighborhoods brings downtown cool with hip eateries, of-the-moment bars and top shops.

wheretraveler.com

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or many of us, each new year marks a chance for renewal, and 2020 is no exception. Please keep your eyes on WhereTraveler in the coming year for continued signs of our resilience and renewal. We believe travel is a gift we give ourselves and love to share our passion for Philadelphia with you, our readers. We hope you will, once again, enjoy learning about our beautiful sites as much as we enjoy writing about them. Happy New Year from us all at WhereTraveler magazine.

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FARAH LOPEZ Editor, WhereTraveler® Philadelphia @wherenewyork

W H E R E T R AV E L E R ® P H I L A D E L P H I A

PHOTO ©JOSE FONTANO/UNSPLASH

EDITOR’S NOTE

Save $2 Use code WHERE19 at www.EasternState.org

Explore America’s Most Historic Prison A haunting world of crumbling cellblocks and empty guard towers

Tours include the cellblocks, Al Capone’s Cell, artist installations, and an audio tour narrated by actor Steve Buscemi.

Open Every Day 10 am to 5 pm • (215) 236-3300 • www.EasternState.org 2027 Fairmount Avenue, Philadelphia, PA • Just five blocks from the Philadelphia Museum of Art

Your Philadelphia

INSIDER

CITY NAME

Y O U R T R AV E L I N G C O M P A N I O N S I N C E 19 3 6 ®

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS

The deep pride we have for our city is second to none.

Our history alone is something to marvel at.

ROSHID MILLEDGE HOTEL CONCIERGE, KIMPTON HOTEL MONACO PHILADELPHIA

pride we have for our city—from our sports teams to some of the best restaurants in the country—is second to none. Our history alone is something to marvel at.

Q: TOP “BUCKET LIST” SITES? A: The National Liberty

Museum with its inspiring stories, history and photographs paying tribute to 9/11 heroes; the African American Museum, a moving, historic and inspiring place; and Eastern State Penitentiary.

Q: YOUR FAVORITE OFF-THEBEATEN TRACK PLACES? A: An all-day tour explor-

ing the unique history of the Amish community in Lancaster, from the buggy rides to the hand-made items and the farming.

EXPERT TIP

The U.S. Mint is a great spot for kids.

They love the tour and seeing how money is printed.

SR. ART DIRECTOR Carrie Donahue

EDITOR/ART DIRECTOR Farah Lopez

ART DIRECTORS Hideki Kato, Hiroko Egashira

PHOTOGRAPHER Alan Battman, William Delisi WEBMASTER Sana Mola

IT MANAGER Todd Gorgon

Q: BEST LOCAL TIP? A: Philly is well known

for the best cheesesteaks in the world. A few hidden gems: Campo’s, Oh Brother, Jim’s Steaks and Ishkabibble’s.

Q: FAVORITE RESTAURANTS FOR A SPECIAL MEAL? A: I love Italian food.

Bistro Romano is great for families, while La Famiglia makes a nice upscale choice. City Tavern is for those who want a good meal while experiencing Colonial history.

Q: SUGGESTIONS FOR HOW TO SPEND A NIGHT OUT? A: If you love jazz, Chris’

Jazz Cafe is great; The Twisted Tail for blues.

Want to dance the night away? Head to Cuba Libre. The Franklin Exchange is nice for drinks and mingling.

Q: HOW DO YOU LIKE TO SPEND YOUR FREE TIME? A: I love trying new

restaurants outside of my comfort zone, seeing a play at Walnut Street Theatre, and walking along Kelly Drive, enjoying the views of Boathouse Row and all the people.

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EXECUTIVE PRINCIPLE PARTNER/PUBLISHER Peter Flower

GENERAL MANAGER OF DIGITAL MEDIA Bruce Amick

HOSPITALITY RELATIONS & DISTRIBUTION HOSPITALITY RELATIONS Jennifer Lee

ADVERTISING SENIOR VP OF ADVERTISING SALES Courtney Fuhrmann DIGITAL MEDIA MANAGER Alex DaCosta ADVERTISING MANAGERS

George Justo, Brad Rosenberg, Chris Dunham ADMIN ASSISTANTS Kimberly Jacks, Sadia Nikiema For advertising inquiries please email us at adsales@govisit.media or call 212.684.6099

55 W. 39th St., Ste. 302, New York, New York 10018

WhereTraveler® magazine is licensed and produced by Go Visit Media LLC - 55 W. 39th St., New York, NY 10018, www.wheretraveler.com.

WhereTraveler magazine and the logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications. WhereTraveler makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited.

(FROM TOP) COURTESY ROSHID MILLEDGE; ©J. SMITH/VISIT PHILADELPHIA®

Q: WHAT DO YOU LOVE MOST ABOUT PHILADELPHIA? A: The people. The deep

EDITORIAL & DESIGN

VISITOR INFORMATION

STARTING HERE CAN LEAD ANYWHERE. @PHLVISITORCENTER

TICKETS TO 100+ TOURS AND ATTRACTIONS

PHLvisitorcenter.com Open Daily, 8:30 a.m. – 6 p.m.

599 Market Street | Philadelphia, PA

NEW! HERSHEY’S KITCHENS CAFE

@PHLVISITORCNTR

PHILADELPHIA GIFT SHOP

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CALENDAR

THE BAND’S VISIT JAN. 7-19

THE BAND’S VISIT, COURTESY THE BAND’S VISIT NATIONAL TOUR

The smash-hit Broadway musical “The Band’s Visit” is the winner of 10 Tony Awards, including Best Musical. In this joyously offbeat story, set in a town that’s way off the beaten path, a band of musicians arrive lost, out of the blue. Grammy Award® winning score seduces your soul and sweeps you off your feet, and features thrillingly talented onstage musicians. Academy of Music, 240 S. Broad St., academyofmusic.org

THE BAND’S VISIT

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WHAT’S HAPPENING

PHOTO: MUSEUM OF THE AMERICAN REVOLUTION, ©MICHAEL BRYANT; PHILADELPHIA FLYERS, ©BROAD STREET HOCKEY

THE LINEUP

MUSEUM OF THE AMERICAN REVOLUTION

10 GREAT THINGS THIS MONTH Philly Flyers Select Dates The city’s NHL home team faces off against rivals from Anaheim to New York. Wells Fargo Center, 215.336.3600 Mummers Parade Jan. 1 Thousands dress in colorful

cosutumes for the New Year. Free along parade route. 9 am. Broad St. from City Hall to Washington St., phillymummers.com First Friday Jan. 3 Once a month, participating Old City art galleries, shops, bars and restaurants stay open late and offer deals. 215.625.9200, oldcitydistrict.org Restaurant Week Jan. 12-24 Food lovers get a taste of Center City’s sizzling restaurant scene and deals on three-course meals.

Lunch $20, dinner $35.

215.440.5500 History After Hours Jan. 21

W H E R E T R AV E L E R . C O M / P H I L A D E L P H I A

History buffs get a glimpse into Hamilton’s day with a night at a winter’s ball.$10.

5-8 pm. Museum of the American Revolution, 101 S. 3rd St., 215.253.6731, amrevmuseum.org Books for Tots Feb. 1 The African-America Children’s Book Fair brings best-selling authore and illustrators together. Free.

9 am- 6 pm (expected).

Community College of Philadelphia, 17th & Spring Garden sts., 215.878.BOOK, theafricanamericanchildrensbookproject.org Philly Theatre Week Feb. 6-16 A 10-day regional theatrical festival promises 100 events, including panels,

PHILLY FLYERS

concerts, meet-ups and loads of live theater. theatrephiladelphia.org Boyz II Man Feb. 14 The best-selling R&B group returns with an intimate showstopping show for Valentine’s Day at the historic opera house. 8 pm.

The Met, 858 N. Broad St., 800.745.3000, themetphilly. com Hello Dolly Feb. 19- Mar. 1 Widow Dolly Gallagher Levi, strongminded matchmaker, arrives in New York to “help” widowed shop owner, find a new wife.

Academy of Music, 240 S. Broad St., academyofmusic.org

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PHILADELPHIA

WHERE NOW

W H E R E T R AV E L E R . C O M

THE BOURSE

Where Now

To Market, to Market

Historic sites get new lives as hubs of hip restaurants, retail and even art. Amy Gordon

PHOTOS: (OPPOSITE PAGE) ©NEAL SANTOS; C. SMYTH/VISIT PHILADELPHIA®

OPPOSITE PAGE: THE BOURSE’S BEAUX ARTS STYLE MAKES A STUNNING BACKDROP FOR DIGGING INTO SOME OF THE CITY’S BEST FOOD. THE EXTERIOR STILL LOOKS LIKE IT DID IN 1891, WHEN IT WAS THE NATION’S FIRST COMMODITIES EXCHANGE BUILDING.

While famous Philly markets like Reading Terminal and the Italian Market have long attracted droves of visitors, two new mixed-use projects serve as modern showcases for the city’s culinary and creative talent. Like Philadelphia itself, The Bourse Food Hall and Cherry Street Pier each blend historic roots with fresh appeal, offering new ways for people to gather and enjoy the City of Brotherly Love.

Set in the heart of Old City and dating back to 1891, The Bourse was the nation’s first commodities exchange and has since gone through iterations as a mall and office building. In November 2018, after a $40-million renovation, the striking Beaux-Arts structure reopened as The Bourse Food Hall, a bustling dining destination serving everything from hand-pinched Chinese dumplings to halal Egyptian cuisine to over-the-top ice cream sundaes.

“There are so many different ethnicities and cultures in Philly,” says Charley McGrath, managing director at MRP Realty, one of the project’s principal partners. “I see The Bourse as a place where everyone can come together no matter their age or background. It’s like a communal table for the city.”

As The Bourse is a member of the National Register of Historic Places, preserving the integrity of this heritage location was vital to executing the project. “The renovation was very complex and a massive risk,” says McGrath. The team peeled back decades of changes to the building, letting the original architecture shine while adding contemporary lighting and other features to bring the design into modern day.

The result is an inviting space that draws inspiration from multipurpose food halls like Chelsea Market in New

York City and the Ferry Building Marketplace in San Francisco. The Bourse Food Hall features a curated lineup of 30 vendors, some local to Philly, others from outside of the region. Diners can feast on options like from-scratch street tacos at DC-based Rebel Taco, fast-casual Indian food at South Philly’s Chaat and Chai, grain-to-glass spirits at Bluebird Distilling or gourmet sweet treats from Barry’s Buns.

Visitors can also shop at purveyors like Penzeys Spices, florist Bonatsos at The Bourse and Kari’s Tea Bar. “The goal was to try to represent everything that the city has to offer under one roof,” says McGrath.

While The Bourse offers an outlet for the city’s most creative culinary talent, another newly reinvented site nearby highlights Philly’s visual artists.

Originally constructed in 1919, Pier 9 at Cherry Street and the Delaware River was once vital to the city’s

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CHERRY STREET PIER

economy. At the time, the 55,000-square-foot facility was the largest municipal pier in Philadelphia, functioning as a marine-railroad terminal for transporting cargo into and out of port. However, as the role of the waterfront in the city’s trade industry declined, the pier sat unused for decades.

In October 2018, the Delaware River Waterfront Corporation (DRWC) reopened the space as Cherry Street Pier, a center for art, dining and community. The $5-million project marks the DRWC’s most recent initiative to revive the city’s eastern shore as an alluring destination for both visitors and residents.

“This is a true example of transformation—from a vacant industrial pier to a thriving public space and creative hub,” says Philadelphia Mayor Jim Kenney.

Today, Cherry Street Pier is home to 14 artist studios created from repurposed shipping containers, food and beverage outlets housed in converted trolley cars and an outdoor garden with sweeping river views. While nearby attractions like Spruce Street Harbor Park and Blue Cross RiverRink Winterfest operate seasonally, Cherry Street Pier is open year round. The cavernous space hosts programming and events, including workshops, markets and art exhibitions.

“The artist studios are the foundational piece of Cherry Street Pier,” says Emma Fried-Cassorla, director of marketing and communications at the DRWC. “The rest of the space was kept open and flexible so that we can do large-

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scale installations.” Visitors can even interact with the artists who work there, breaking down the barriers between the viewing public and Philadelphia’s extraordinary, active creative community.

Visual art is a central focus of the project, but Cherry Street Pier also brings to the table a select group of food and beverage vendors. Hungry patrons can dine on elevated comfort dishes at Cooperage, indulge in intriguingly delicious flavors at Little Baby’s Ice Cream, enjoy authentic Indonesian cuisine at Hardena and munch on sweet and savory baked goods from Birdie’s Biscuits. On the beverage side, the space features a rotating selection of offerings from local favorites like Yards Brewing Company, Kurant Cider and Philadelphia Brewing Company.

As DRWC President Joe Forkin puts it, Cherry Street Pier is “a reflection of Philadelphia today—creative, diverse, historic, adaptable and inspired.”

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PHOTOS (TOP CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT) ©MARIA YOUNG; ©MARIA YOUNG; ©MATT STANLEY; (BOTTOM) ©MARIA YOUNG

Where Now

F O R M O R E T H I N G S T O D O I N R I T T E N H O U S E , V I S I T W H E R E T R AV E L E R . C O M

ONE BLOCK FIND THE BEST IN

RITTENHOUSE

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: THE DANDE(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP) ©J. FUSCO/VISIT PHILADELPHIA®; ©J. VARNEY/A.BAR; ©C. SMYTH/VISIT PHILADELPHIA® (2)

LION; A.BAR; HARP & CROWN; THE ROSENBACH

EAT

SHOP

DRINK

PLAY

Elevated British gastropub fare and a warm vibe make The Dandelion irresistible.

At Veda, mouth-watering dishes come in the form of modern, from-scratch Indian cooking. V Street’s vegan street food, wines and craft beers make a casual, fun night out.

Stroll the popular Shops at Liberty Place and ascend to One Liberty Observation Deck for a birds-eye view of the city. Also in the shops, Children’s Boutique offers great togs for colder temps.

At Open House, find eclectic and quirky gifts.

At trendy a.bar, drinkers sip house cocktails and top wines while nibbling raw seafood and small bites.

Village Whiskey pours from over 200 bottles, while Tria taps from a wide selection of drinks and offers 22 draft beers, wines and cocktails.

The Rosenbach museum offers a fascinating glimpse of rare books preserved in a lovely row home. Don’t let Harp & Crown’s elegant dining room and new American cuisine fool you.

Just below the main dining room, you’ll find a two-lane bowling alley that’ll have you wondering: Bowl first or eat first?

 The Dandelion 124 S. 18th St., 215.558.2500, www. thedandelionpub.com  V Street 124 & 126 S. 19th St., 215.278.7943, www. vstreetfood.com  Veda 1920 Chestnut St., 267.519.2001, www.veda philly.com

 The Children’s Boutique 1625 Chestnut St., 215.732.2661, no website  Open House 107 S. 13th St., 215.922.1415, www. openhouseliving.com

 The Shops at Liberty Place 1625 Chestnut St., 215.851.9055, www.shopsat liberty.com

 a.bar 1737 Walnut St., 215.825.7035, www.akitchen andbar.com  Tria Taproom 2005 Walnut St., 215.557.8277, www. triaphilly.com  Village Whiskey 118 S. 20th St., 215.665.1088, www. philadelphia.villagewhiskey.com

 Harp & Crown 1525 Sansom St., 215.330.2800, www. harpcrown.com

 The Rosenbach 2008 Delancey Place, 215.732.1600, www.rosen bach.org

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WHERE TO EXPLORE

RITTENHOUSE SQUARE

NEIGHBORHOODS Rittenhouse Square

Philadelphia’s equivalent to New York City’s Upper East Side is most notable for Rittenhouse Square itself, a pastoral park populated with statues that’s always packed with locals during the warmer months. Also known as Rittenhouse Row, the area is one of the most upscale neighborhoods in the country. In fact, the public park is regarded as one of the finest urban open spaces in the United States and is one of the five original spaces that were planned by William Penn and Thomas Holme.

Named after astronomer and clock-maker David Rittenhouse, the area is dotted with luxury apartments and residential homes, upscale restaurants, and several high-end shopping venues.

The neighborhood is also home to several other popular sites such as the Philadelphia Art Alliance, the Rosenbach Museum and Library, and Delancey Place—a quiet but historic street known for its Civil-war era architecture that has been the setting of

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many Hollywood movies. If you are visiting in May, you must absolutely time your travel with the Rittenhouse Square Spring Festival.

Parkway District & Fairmount

The pulse of the city’s culture beats along this majestic gateway inspired

by Paris’ Champs-Élysées.

The flag-lined Benjamin Franklin Parkway is flanked by world-class museums and green spaces.

Kelly Drive winds along the Schuylkill River, where crew teams ply the water, and charming Fairmount is home to cozy cafes and the gothic-style Eastern State Penitentiary.

Situated along the iconic Benjamin Franklin Parkway, the Parkway Museum District is a picturesque boulevard that traverses the cultural heart of Philly. The parkway begins at the City Hall and continues to the Philadelphia Museum of Art. Cathedral Basilica of Saints Peter & Paul sits on Logan Square’s east side and is the main church of

Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Philadelphia. It is also the largest of its kind in the state of Pennsylvania and has hosted two papal Masses, one by Pope John Paul II and another by Pope Francis.

Another remarkable attraction in the area is the Rodin Museum. Established in 1929, the museum contains the largest collection of sculpture works by any artist outside of Paris. The neighborhood also has a brilliant outdoor sculpture garden that features some of the most exquisite statues found anywhere in the world: Robert Tait McKenzie’s The Ideal Scout, Calder’s Shakespeare Memorial, and Rodin’s The Thinker. Other highlights include: The Mutter Museum, Fairmount Park, The Rocky Statue and the Steps, Fairmount Water Works, and the Barnes Foundation.

Center City

Comprising the central business district and other important central neighborhoods in Philly, this area is what essentially constituted

W H E R E T R AV E L E R ® P H I L A D E L P H I A

the City of Philadelphia before Philadelphia County became a part of the city in 1854. The second-most inhabited downtown in the United States of America, Center City is home to some of the tallest structures in Philly, including but not limited to Philadelphia City Hall and One Liberty Place. In fact, the William Penn Statue at the City Hall was the tallest structure in the municipality until One Liberty Place broke the record in 1987. As a result of the “Curse of Billy,” the city’s major league sports team couldn’t manage a single win in over two decades until a three-foot statue of William Penn was fixed atop Comcast Center in 2007, making it the tallest. In 2008, the Philadelphia Phillies, now curse-free, won the World Series. Masonic Temple, located across the street from the City Hall, is the headquarters of the Grand Lodge of Pennsylvania and was constructed in commemoration of the Founding Fathers, many of whom, including Benjamin Franklin and George Washington, were Freemasons. While

restaurants and only-inPhilly boutiques, though some sections preserve the area’s edgier vibe.

ELFRETH’S ALLEY,OLD TOWN

here, you absolutely cannot miss mimicking Rocky’s famous climb at the famous Rocky Steps—a series of 72 stone steps right outside the Philadelphia Museum of Art made memorable by the classic Sylvester Stallone film, Rocky.

Old City

Old City is both the birthplace of America and its most famous historic neighborhood, while neighboring Society Hill is where you will find some of the greatest sites in Philadelphia.

Contemporary art galleries, intriguing monuments and museums, quiet residential zones, upscale boutiques, and great nightlife – this neighborhood has it all.

18th-century grand edifices line the cobbled streets of this area.

The nine-foot tall Benjamin Franklin bust, probably one of the most significant landmarks in the city, is dedicated to the life and works of the iconic personality. Then there is the Betsy Ross Museum, named after the woman who, if the rumors are to be believed, stitched the first ever American flag. Last but definitely not least, the Old City is also home to the two most historic attractions of America – the Liberty Bell and Independence Park.

Other highlights: Ben Franklin Bridge, Elfreth’s Alley,

Museum of the American Revolution, and Independence Seaport Museum.

South Philly & Italian Market

This quintessential Philly zone has some of the best cheesesteaks and the openair Italian Market. On East Passyunk Avenue, first-rate restaurants create a foodie destination, while farther south, the MLB’s Phillies batter up at Citizens Bank Park and the NFL’s Super Bowl LII champs, the Eagles, hit the gridiron at Lincoln Financial Field.

The neighborhood has become one of the city’s most vibrant spots for food—especially along trendy East Passyunk Avenue, which is home to tons of amazing restaurants, such as fancy French bistro Laurel and homey Dutch eatery NOORD. There’s also the iconic Italian Market, with its pastries, butchers, cheese and, yes, even Mexican food, and the Dickinson Square farmers’ market on Sundays throughout summer.

It’s all about music, food and drinks in this decidedly residential neighborhood, with game-centric bars like Barcade, Garage and Frankford Hall topping the list for laid-back spots offering good drinks and fun competition among friends.

As one of the fastest-growing sections of Philadelphia, Fishtown is a popular spot for millennials and a great spot for visitors to experience a night on the town.

Pennsport

Located along the banks of the Delaware River in South Philly, this neighborhood is the home of the Mummers, locals who have been dressing in elaborate costumes and parading down the street on New Year’s Day for a century, and the Mummers Museum.

Moyamensing Avenue is lined with beautiful architecture and historic churches.

Midtown Village & “Gayborhood”

Thirteenth Street from Chestnut to Locust streets is the thriving hub for the city’s vibrant gay commu-

nity, lovingly referred to as the “Gayborhood.” Here, sidewalks brim with some of the best restaurants and nightlife spots around.

The Gayborhood, is an inclusive, progressive and totally fun LGBTQ-friendly neighborhood with bars like Tavern on Camac for raucous piano sing-alongs and Woody’s, with its allnight dance parties. In the daytime, you’re also a hop, skip and a jump from Reading Terminal Market, a sprawling indoor market filled with food vendors of every stripe—from Amish pies and some of the best Philly cheesesteak in Philadelphia to produce, cheese, honeys and jams.

It’s all about the nightlife in Midtown Village. Once the sun sets on this central Philly neighborhood, the streets become a bustling, lively mashup of locals and tourists, college students and businessmen ready to party. There’s truly something for everyone, whether you’re a bro in need of a night of beers and karaoke at Moriarty’s Pub or a couple celebrating an anniversary with dinner at Vedge followed by a symphony performance at the Kimmel Center.

Within just a few blocks, you can experience the

SPRUCE STREET HARBOR PARK, PENN’S LANDING

Northern Liberties & Fishtown

Once a manufacturing and industrial sector, “NoLibs” and Fishtown in recent years have become lively communities complete with residential lofts, hip

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finest theater Philly has to offer. Philadelphia Theatre Company, the Wilma Theater, Merriam Theater and Academy of Music are within blocks of each other, making Midtown Village the primo spot for Philadelphia theater, musicals, operas and orchestras. Just like with any other live performance, these can be hit-or-miss, nationally acclaimed or homegrown. Kimmel Center offers day-of “rush” tickets, where you can try and grab a seat for cheap.

Cedar Park & Spruce Hill

West Philadelphia’s Cedar Park is a tightly knit enclave known for its bohemian vibe and mom-and-pop businesses. Nearby, Spruce Hill is a multicultural zone home to Clark Park, a public green space filled with artists and musicians. Every year, both host the Baltimore Avenue Dollar stroll, the city’s most affordable festival.

Chinatown

The elaborately decorated Friendship Gate marks the spot where Cantonese immigrants settled in the mid-19th century. Today, Fujianese, Taiwanese, Thai and Burmese residents contribute to a colorful

patchwork of culture and culinary treasures. The Asian Arts Initiative highlights exhibitions and performances that speak to the Asian American experience.

Graduate Hospital

A large medical institution once occupied this area south of Rittenhouse Square, giving the enclave its name. Today, the zone bustles with restaurants and nightlife, plus the Schuylkill River Trail—26.5 miles of pathways revealing views of the river.

Market East

This area located just off Center City is gearing up to become a commercial hot zone, with new developments popping up alongside iconic Reading Terminal Market and City Hall.

Market East also claims Philadelphia History Museum at the Atwater Kent, which offers a look at the city’s storied past.

University City

As the name suggests, this West Philadelphia area draws its character from its many academic institutions—five, including the University of

WORLD CAFE LIVE,UNIVERSITY CITY

CITY HALL, DOWNTOWN

Pennsylvania and Drexel University. Because of this, the neighborhood exudes a youthful energy with an array of dining and entertainment options to match. Also worth seeking out: the Penn Museum, The Institute of Contemporary Art and the historic railway hub, 30th Street Station, which now features The Porch at 30th Street, an outdoor oasis with food, seating (including swings) and live performances.

Washington Square

This district includes Jewelers’ Row, the oldest diamond zone in the country, and historic Antique Row. The oldest continuously operating theater in the country, Walnut Street Theatre, hosts musicals, comedies and dramas. In Washington Square, visitors view the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, or head to the Curtis Center, the former headquarters of the Ladies Home Journal and the Saturday Evening Post, which houses The Dream Garden, a glass mosaic based on a landscape painting by Philly’s own Maxfield Parrish.

Bucks County Twenty-five miles from Philadelphia, this picturesque countryside is full of Rockwellian towns, lush vineyards, historic mansion and covered

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bridges. In Doylestown, the Mercer Museum houses 40,000 artifacts from early America, while the James A. Michener Museum holds an excellent collection of Pennsylvanian impressionist paintings. In artsy New Hope, take a ride on the 1925 Ivyland Railroad and explore Main Street’s charming shops.

Chesnut Hill

Just outside downtown, this charming suburb is known for its boutique district along Germantown Avenue, cobblestone streets, a large farmers market, Morris Arboretum and the Woodmere Art Museum. For outdoorsy types, Wissahickon Valley Park offers 1,800 acres for exploring, while Pastorius Park makes an ideal backdrop for picnics and summertime concerts.

Manayunk

A 15-minute train or bus ride (take the Manayunk Norristown Regional Rail line to the Manayunk stop or bus route 35 or 61) drops you in the center of this bustling area of the city.

Small-town charm is the appeal here, but upscale shops also attract urbanites looking for an easy day trip.

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W H E R E T R AV E L E R . C O M

Here are some great WhereTraveler tips from our editors on how to navigate Philly like a pro.

GO BEYOND THE CHEESESTEAKS While we would never steer someone away from trying a cheesesteak (hey, they’re delicious), it’s important to realize how vast Philly is in the food realm. National magazines have taken note, naming Philly a top culinary city and citing many of local restaurants as “the best.” But beyond the accolades, Philly is as diverse as they come.

TAKE THE PHLASH! When exploring the sights, the Philly PHLASH is the way to go.

The PHLASH downtown loop is a quick, easy and inexpensive connection to key Philadelphia historic attractions and cultural institutions.

For just $2 per ride, or $5 for an allday pass (with children under 4 years old and seniors free). No service on Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Day or New Year’s Eve.

LEARN ABOUT THE LIQUOR SCENE For those that enjoy a good drink, Philly is a great spot for you. Craft beers and locally made spirits have been rising in popularity for a few years now, but recently, they have exploded. Take a tour of the local breweries or grab a seat at a bar and order an imaginative cocktail—just ask your bartenders for something local.

EMBRACE THE OUTDOORS

TAKE ADVANTAGE OF THE TOURS

Fairmount Park has more than 9,200 acres perfect for hiking, biking, walking or having a picnic by the water.

Even when it’s cold, it’s pretty (and vast) enough to take a drive through and check out. Parks also hide inside city limits, providing a refuge to the hustle and a calm place to retreat. And many have their own activities and attractions to keep kids and adults busy for hours.

In Philly, tours are some of the best ways to learn about the city. Hop on a double-decker bus and get a local’s perspective of the city, board a trolley for the Mural Arts Tour to learn about the murals spread across the city or head to Philly Tour Hub and pick a tour that fits your interests—after a few hours with a guide, you’ll probably know more than most locals.

PHOTOS, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: ©NBC PHILADELPHIA; ©KELLY KIERNANI/UNSPLASH; ©CURBED PHILLIY; ©FABIO ALVES/UNSPLASH; ©MGG VITCHAKORN/UNSPLASH

EDITORS TIPS

THINGS TO DO (AND NOT TO DO)

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THE

GUIDE OUR

CANDY CRUSH

Philadelphia may not be quite as large as cities like New York or Chicago, but it’s still home to a ton of exciting neighborhoods to live in or visit. If you’re in town and want to know where to find the best coffee joints, the latest trends, and the need-to-know hotspots, check out out latest guide.

FAVORITES

LOOK FOR our featured advertisers throughout the Guide.

PHOTO COURTESY FREDDY DO

ATTRACTIONS Art Museums THE BARNES FOUNDATION Albert C. Barnes’ 1922 museum highlights superb works of Impressionist, post-Impressionist and early-Modern paintings, as well as African sculpture and European and Asian antiquities. $5-$25. Open W-M. 2025 Benjamin Franklin Parkway, 215.278.7000. www.barnesfoundation.org PENNSYLVANIA ACADEMY OF THE FINE ARTS This National Historic Landmark houses America’s first art museum and art school, plus one of the world’s largest collections of American art, including works by alumna Mary Cassatt and Maxfield Parrish. $8-$15. Open Tu-Su. 118-128 N. Broad St., 215.972.7600. www. pafa.org PHILADELPHIA MUSEUM OF ART The world-famous museum displays major works from across the globe, including those by local artists. The museum is also popular with “Rocky” movie fans, who run up the front steps in tribute. $14-$25; under 19 free.

Open Tu-Su. 2600 Benjamin Franklin Parkway, 215.763.8100. www.phila museum.org

Piazza Sempione Mi Jong Lee Fabiana Filippi Tom & Linda Platt Catherine Regehr Wolford Planet by Lauren G Up pants Sizes 2-18 Daytime to Evening Celebrating 90 Years

19th & Sansom Street 215.567.4662

THE PRINT CENTER Founded in 1915, this nonprofit gallery was one of the very first venues in the country dedicated to prints. The center continues to support printmaking and photography as vital contemporary arts with exhibitions and a gallery store. Open Tu-Sa. 1614 Latimer St., 215.735.6090. www. printcenter.org RODIN MUSEUM The largest collection of the sculptor’s work outside Paris includes casts of his most famous works, including “The Thinker” and “The Gates of Hell.” Free tours. $7-$10. Open W-M. 2151 Benjamin Franklin Parkway, 215.763.8100. www.rodin museum.org

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Historic Homes BETSY ROSS HOUSE The Colonial-style home of America’s famous flag maker features period furnishings and Ross’ personal belongings, plus an upholstery shop and special exhibitions. $4-$8. Open daily.

239 Arch St., 215.629.4026. www.historicphiladelphia.org DECLARATION HOUSE (GRAFF HOUSE) The reconstructed house where Thomas Jefferson wrote the Declaration of Independence features exhibits and a short film on the drafting of the historic document. Free. Call for hours.

Closed through June 2019. 701 Market St., 215.965.2305. www. nps.gov/inde

Museums

AT T R A C T I O N S

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THE AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM IN PHILADELPHIA Founded in 1976, the first museum built by a major U.S. city devoted to African Americans has four galleries and an auditorium with exhibits on themes of the African Diaspora, the Philadelphia Story and Contemporary Narrative. $10$14. Open W-Su. 701 Arch St., 215.574.0380. www.aamp museum.org AMERICAN SWEDISH HISTORICAL MUSEUM America’s oldest museum devoted to preserving and presenting Swedish and Swedish-American history and culture is housed in a regal building in Franklin Delano Roosevelt (FDR) Park. $2-$10. Tu-Sa-Su. 1900 Pattison Ave., 215.389.1776. www. american swedish.org

*Travel time from City Hall Station to NRG Station

ISEPTAPHILLY.COM

THE FRANKLIN INSTITUTE This family-friendly museum explores all things science through hands-on exhibits such as a walk-through “Giant Heart.”

Immersive special exhibitions often sell out. $19-$23 (special exhibitions more). IMAX $10.

Escape room $28. Open daily.

222 N. 20th St., 215.448.1200. www.fi.edu

Observatory & Lookout Point ONE LIBERTY OBSERVATION DECK On clear days, 360-degree views from this perch extend to New Jersey and Delaware, University City, Philly’s stadiums and beyond. High-tech touch-screens let visitors zoom in. $10-$15.

Open daily. 1650 Market St., 215.561.3325. www.phillyfrom thetop.com

NATIONAL MUSEUM OF AMERICAN JEWISH HISTORY This Smithsonian affiliate explores the history of the Jewish people in America through exhibits featuring more than 1,000 artifacts, plus films and interactive displays. $13-$15.

Open Tu-Su. Corner of Fifth and Market streets, 215.923.3811. www.nmajh.org

CITY HALL AND TOWER Philadelphia’s center of city government is the world’s tallest masonry load-bearing structure and the country’s largest municipal building. Tours offered daily.

Check website for prices/schedule and to purchase. Broad and Market streets, 267.514.4757. www.phl visitorcenter.com/cityhall EASTERN STATE PENITENTIARY HISTORIC SITE The world’s most famous and expensive prison is now an abandoned building offering tours of cellblocks, including Al Capone’s lavishly decorated cell, and hospital wing. $12-$16.

Open daily. 2027 Fairmount Ave., 215.236.3300. www.east ernstate.org INDEPENDENCE HALL Built for the Pennsylvania legislature, Independence Hall became famous as the “Birthplace of the United States” after the Declaration of Independence was adopted and the U.S. Constitution was drafted here. Free, timed tickets at the

THE GUIDE

BATTLESHIP NEW JERSEY After seeing combat in four wars and becoming one of the nations most decorated battleships, The USS New Jersey now serves as a floating museum and education center. Guided tours: $19.95-$29.95. Open daily. 62 Battleship Place, Camden, N.J., 866.877.6262. www.battle shipnewjersey.org

SIMEONE FOUNDATION AUTOMOTIVE MUSEUM Dr. Frederick Simeone’s 78,000-square-foot shrine to the race car houses more than 65 historically significant automobiles with “Demo Days” taking rare beauties out for a spin. $8-$12.

Open Tu-Su. 6825 Norwitch

Spanning 10 city blocks from 30th to 40th Streets and across Spruce, Walnut, and Chestnut Streets, Shop Penn features more than 30 shops, 40 restaurants, and 15 sports & culture venues — open to all.

Points of Interest

THE NATIONAL LIBERTY MUSEUM Celebrate America’s heritage of freedom and achievement at galleries honoring local, national and international defenders of liberty. Don’t miss the work of glass artist Dale Chihuly. $4-$9; $20 family pass. Check website for seasonal hours. 321 Chestnut St., 215.925.2800. www.liberty museum.org

PENN MUSEUM Founded in 1887, this institution with refreshed galleries exhibits an internationally acclaimed collection of archeological and anthropological artifacts from all over the world. From $10. Open Tu-Su. 3260 South St., 215.898.4000. www.penn. museum

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Attractions

NATIONAL CONSTITUTION CENTER Near Independence Hall and the Liberty Bell, this dynamic site tells the story of the U.S. Constitution through interactive and multimedia exhibits. $11-$14.50. Open daily. 525 Arch St., Independence Mall, 215.409.6600. www.consti tutioncenter.org

Drive, 215.365.7233 www.simeonemuseum.org

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MÜTTER MUSEUM At The College of Physicians of Philadelphia, this museum is full of anatomical and pathological artifacts and anomalies, medical instruments and skeletons. $13$18. Open daily. 19 S. 22nd St., 215.560.8564. www.muttermuseum.org

Tickle any fancy with erotic treasures for adult pleasure for both men and women at The Pleasure Chest. This adult boutique located off Rittenhouse Square has been the best resource for quality products and knowledge since 1974.

Featuring brands such as We-Vibe, ZALO, Satisfier, Lelo, Liberator, Fleshlight, Blush, Femme Funn, Cal Exotics, Maia and many more for all your intimate needs.

THE PLEASURE CHEST 2039 Walnut Street 215.561.7480 www.pleasurechestphilly.com

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Visit our website for all holiday festivities!

Independence Visitor Center.

Open daily. Chestnut Street, between Fifth and Sixth streets, 215.965.2305. www.nps.gov/ inde/planyourvisit/independencehall.htm INDEPENDENCE NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK This park spans 20 city blocks (more than 55 acres) and includes Colonial sites like Independence Hall, Christ Church, Carpenters’ Hall, Old City Hal, the Benjamin Franklin Museum and the Liberty Bell.

215.965.2305. www.nps.gov/ inde

AT T R A C T I O N S

INDEPENDENCE SEAPORT MUSEUM This sprawling maritime museum offers interactive exhibits and an operational boat workshop. Just outside, tour cruiser “Olympia” and the World War II submarine “Becuna.” $14-$18; under 3 free. Check website for seasonal hours. 211 S. Columbus Blvd., 215.413.8655. www.phil lyseaport.org LEGOLAND DISCOVERY CENTER Explore themed play areas, from Lego Ninjago Training to a Philadelphia Legoscape at this hands-on park. Open daily. $29.95 (discounts online).

Must have at least one child in attendance. 500 W. Germantown Pike, Plymouth Meeting, Pa., 267.245.9696 www.legoland discoverycenter.com LIBERTY BELL CENTER The 2,080-pound bell with its famous crack rang on July 8, 1776 to announce the first public reading of the Declaration of Independence. Today it’s preserved here across from Independence Hall. Free.

Open daily. Sixth and Market streets, 215.965.2305. www. nps.gov/inde VALLEY FORGE In the winter of 1777-78, around 12,000 of General George Washington’s soldiers camped here. Today, the site is a wonderful spot to hike, bike, or simply take in the scenery. Visitors Center at North Gulph Road and Route 23, King of Prussia,

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W H E R E T R AV E L E R ® P H I L A D E L P H I A

SHOPPING Apparel - Men HENRY A. DAVIDSEN This tailor and custom clothier located near Rittenhouse Square offers image consulting and ready-to-wear selections, including cufflinks, pocket squares, ties and more. By appt. only. 1701 Spruce St., 215.310.0219. www. henry davidsen.com P’S & Q’S The hand-picked, premium items at this family-owned shop include casual and work-ready looks by in-demand brands such as Patagonia, Norse Projects, Kikkerland and Herschel Supply Co. Open M-Su. 820 South St., 215.592.0888. www.psandqs. com

Apparel - Men & Women BOYDS PHILADELPHIA One of the country’s largest men’s stores and the city’s largest designer women’s store stocks T By Alexander Wang, Manolo Blahnik and Zac Zac Posen.

Free alterations, valet parking.

Open M-Sa. 1818 Chestnut St., 215.564.9000. www.boydsphila. com SHIBE VINTAGE SPORTS Founded by local sports enthusiasts, this store sells retro-style shirts and hats. The retailer’s Originals line taps the talents of local artists and screen printers.

Worldwide shipping. Open daily.

137 S. 13th St., 215.566.2511. www.shibe vintagesports.com SUGARCUBE This hip shop is known for its inspired take on men’s and women’s fashion. Labels here include A.P.C., Dunderdon, Frenzii, Kim Schalk, Steven Alan,

Pendleton and True Grit, plus vintage pieces. Open daily. 124 N. Third St., 215.238.0825. www. sugarcube.us

Apparel - Women ARTISANS ON THE AVENUE In leafy Chestnut Hill, Lisa Howe and Georgia Doyle offer a personal touch and a well-edited selection of clothing, accessories and jewelry from small and local designers. Open daily. 8440 Germantown Ave., 215.381.0582. www.artisans ontheavenue.com SOPHY CURSON This salon-like spot carries a well-curated collection of gowns, day-into-evening looks, jewelry and accessories by designers like Fabiana Filippi and Alex Teih.

Open M-Sa and by appointment.

19th and Sansom streets, 215.567.4662. www.sophycurson.com VAGABOND BOUTIQUE

Located in Old City, this boutique and yarn shop highlights hand-knit sweaters, jumpsuits and crop tops with a bohemian vibe, plus a chic assortment of accessories. Open daily. 37 N. Third St., 267.671.0737. www. vagabondboutique.com

Attractions

Pa., 610.783.1000. www.nps. gov/vafo

Gifts & Decor CONTESSA’S FRENCH LINENS Find imported tablecloths and tea towels from French regions, plus one-of-a-kind aprons, jewelry and rosemary baskets at this shop in the historic Reading Terminal Market. Open daily. 51 N. 12th St. in Reading Terminal Market, 610.306.4507. www. contessas frenchlinens.com PHILADELPHIA INDEPENDENTS At this Old City gift shop, find handmade items by local makers, including jewelry, ceramics, accessories, home decor, artwork and gifts for babies. Open daily.

THE GUIDE

NOW OPEN THROUGH MARCH 8, 2020 #MyPhillyWaterfront

Columbus Boulevard at Market Street • RiverRink.com

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35 N. Third St., 267.773.7316. www.philadelphia independents.com

Galleries + Antiques 3RD STREET GALLERY Since 1978, this artist-run cooperative has been presenting high-quality works that encourage risk-taking and experimentation. Open Th-Su noon-5 pm and by appointment.

45 N. Second St., 215.625.0993. www.3rdstreetgallery.com THE CENTER FOR EMERGING VISUAL ARTISTS This local resource fosters the development and careers of visual artists, among them Lori Banks and Jack McGovern.

Open M-F and by appointment.

The Barclay, 237 S. 18th St., Suite 3A, 215.546.7775. www. cfeva.org

SHOPPING

DANE FINE ART GALLERY & AUCTION HOUSE This buyer/seller stocks an impressive collection of works by major artists including Basquiat, Picasso, Warhol and more. By appointment. 606 Spring Garden St., 267.687.8378. www.danefineart.com GRAVERS LANE GALLERY The edgy, contemporary Chestnut Hill gallery exhibits works in various media by both established and emerging artists from around the world.

Open W-Su and by appt. 8405 Germantown Ave., 215.247.1603. www.gravers lanegallery.com

reclaimed precious metals, ethically sourced stones, and low-impact, environmentally conscious practices. Open W-Su. 700 S. Sixth St., 215.454.2164. www.barioneal.com

with top-notch cuts, shaves and more, plus tunes from a circa 1963 jukebox. Also find shaving products, gifts and art. Open W-M. 151 N. 3rd St., 267.314.5557. www.blokes barbershop.com

GOVBERG JEWELERS Since 1922, this local institution has earned an international reputation for its collection of high-end timepieces from Patek Philippe, Rolex and more. Trade-ins accepted.

Open M-Sa. Govberg Jewelers Flagship Store, 1521 Walnut St., 215.546.6505. www.govberg watches.com

CITY HYDRATION Registered nurses and paramedics provide customized IV infusions at a few locations for whatever ails you, from hangovers to jet lag. Lounge chairs, heated blankets, eye masks and hot tea help calm nervous Nellies. From $75; add-ons extra.

By appointment. 1315 Walnut St., Suite 1403, 215.416.0109. www.city hydration.com

LAGOS The flagship of this Philly jeweler features award-winning collections by its namesake designer, Steven Lagos, who has been creating exquisite pieces for more than 40 years. Open daily. 1735 Walnut St., 215.567.0770. www. lagos.com MARYANNE S. RITTER JEWELERS Expert craftsman here have been creating custom designs since 1909. They also offer quality jewelry at affordable prices with a large selection of cultured freshwater and saltwater pearls.

Open M-Sa. 712 S. 4th St., 215.922.0512. www.mary annesritterjewelers.com

Salons & Spas BLOKES BARBERSHOP & GENTLEMEN’S EMPORIUM Brit Duke Dunne and Jill Ervais’ ode to classic men’s grooming parlors offers all the nostalgia

JUJU SPA & ORGANICS Not far from South Street, this inviting spa specializes in all-natural skin care products, non-toxic mani-pedis and other pampering services. Open W-Su. Salon, 713 S. Fourth St., 215.238.6080. www.jujusalon.com

Shoes BUS STOP BOUTIQUE British-born Elena Brennan’s Queen Village shop is known for standout kicks by hard-to-find designers. Open daily. 727 S. Fourth St., 215.627.2357. www. busstopboutique.com LAPSTONE & HAMMER Kate Rohrer designed this local haven for sneakerheads, which offers 4,000 square feet of space for kicks, plus hip menswear, grooming products and accessories. Open daily. 1106 Chestnut St., 215.592.9166. www.lapstoneandhammer.com

INLIQUID ART & DESIGN This educational resource and gallery combines art and the Internet. The website with portfolios of over 330 artists familiarizes visitors, while the gallery offers an up-close view. 1400 N. American St., 215.235.3405. www.inliquid.org

Jewelry BARIO-NEAL Handcrafted in Philadelphia, this jewelry line is made with

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Shopping Centers

W H E R E T R AV E L E R ® P H I L A D E L P H I A

FASHION DISTRICT This retail complex combines shopping, dining and entertainment across three city blocks.

Burlington and Century 21 anchor stores including H&M, a movie theater, Big Gay Ice Cream and a winery. Check website for hours. 901 Market St., 215.925.7162. www.fash iondistrictphiladelphia.com MARKETPLACE PHL Inside Philadelphia International Airport, find more than 170 stores, restaurants and services—local spots and national brands—through all seven terminals. Open daily.

Terminal E, 8500 Essington Ave., 215.937.1200. www.philamarket place.com SHOP PENN On the University of Pennsylvania campus, find more than 75 national and independent retailers, plus top-notch restaurants, art galleries and hotels. Hours vary by store. 34th through 38th streets, Chestnut to Spruce streets. No phone. www.shopsatpenn.com THE SHOPS AT LIBERTY PLACE This indoor complex has 55 boutiques (Bloomingdale’s The Outlet Store, ALDO Shoes, J. Crew) and a food court, plus One Liberty Observation Deck.

Open daily. 1625 Chestnut St., between Liberty I and Liberty II office towers, 215.851.9055. www.shopsatliberty.com

PSYCHIC READINGS BY HANNAH Expert love psychic specialist can help in all areas of life, love, business career, etc.

Professional psychic with more than 30 years’ experience. Tarot card, palm readings and crystal ball readings. Also available for phone readings.

1531 Cherry St., Philadelphia, PA 19102, 215.595.8090 PROMOTION

PLEASURE CHEST Since 1974, this adult boutique has been offering top-quality intimate products for men and women, with a discreet, expert staff, who can customize every shopping experience.

Open Tu-Sa. 2039 Walnut St., 215.561.7480. www.pleasure chestphilly.com

DINING Avenue of the Arts MCCORMICK & SCHMICK’S—SEAFOOD This bustling establishment brings the flavors of the Pacific Northwest to Philadelphia, plus draft beers, single malts and Northwest wines. For a more intimate meal, head upstairs to cozy booths. L, D (daily). 1 S. Broad St., 215.568.6888. www. mccormickandschmicks.com

VOLVER—AMERICAN Here, chef Jose Garces revisits favorite culinary experiences.

The result? A diverse, seasonal, and often locally sourced menu serving some of the most innovative dishes in the city. D (Tu-Sa).

300 S. Broad St., 215.670.2302. www.volver restaurant.com

Center City & Rittenhouse BUTCHER AND SINGER— STEAKHOUSE Stephen Starr’s steakhouse offers a glam setting for top-notch steaks and chops. Find 28-foot-high ceilings, leather booths, elegant drapes and sparkling chandeliers. L (M-F), D (daily). 1500 Walnut St.,

FOX AND SON AMERICAN This stand inside Reading Terminal Market specializes in the humble corndog but with batters like sweet potato and toppings like jalapeno and queso.

Also find poutine, funnel cake and loaded fries. B, L, D (daily). 51 N. 12th St., 215.372.7935. www. foxandson philly.com THE LOVE—AMERICAN Aimee Olexy and James Beardwinner Stephen Starr’s venture offers approachable creative dishes like whole smoked trout with kale, maple farro and spicy pecans. L (M-F), D (daily), Br (SaSu). 130 S. 18th St., 215.433.1555. www. thelove restaurant.com METROPOLITAN BAKERY—BAKERIES James Barrett and Wendy Smith Born’s bakery supplies artisan loaves to some of the city’s best restaurants and feed denizens baked goods, cafe eats and gourmet groceries at several locations. B, L, D (daily). 262 S. 19th St., 215.545.6655. www. metropolitanbakery.com THE PRIME RIB—STEAK This supper club serves USDA prime cuts, seafood flown in daily and wines from a top-notch list. The sophisticated dining room takes diners back to the 1940s, with live piano nightly.

D (daily). 1701 Locust St., 215.772.1701. www.theprimerib. com R2L AMERICAN Located on the 37th floor of Two Liberty Place, chef Daniel Stern’s restaurant offers modern twists on traditional American flavors. The stunning skyline views make this spot one of Philly’s most spectacular dining destinations.

D (daily). 50 S. 16th St., 37th floor, 215.564.5337. www.r2lrestaurant.com SEAFOOD UNLIMITED— SEAFOOD Located just off of Rittenhouse Square, this intimate favorite specializes in simply prepared fresh fish and seafood. D (M-Sa).

THE GUIDE

MORTON’S, THE STEAKHOUSE—STEAK An extensive wine selection is just a bonus at this classic Chicago-style steakhouse.

Wet-aged prime beef broiled Midwestern-style makes for hearty portions, but also try pork and lamb chops, as well as tasty seafood. D (daily). 1411 Walnut St., 215.557.0724. www. mortons.com

215.732.4444. www.butcherandsinger.com

Dining

Specialty Shops

270 S. 20th St., 215.732.3663. www.seafoodunlimited.com VERNICK FOOD & DRINK—AMERICAN James Beard-winning chef Greg Vernick’s menu of global plates showcases techniques he perfected while working in kitchens with Jean-Georges Vongerichten.

Reservations recommended.

D (Tu-Su). 2031 Walnut St., 267.639.6644. www.vernickphilly.com

Convention Center READING TERMINAL MARKET— INTERNATIONAL This 1893 market and former train station is one of the city’s major food meccas, where visitors sample international and local specialties, including Pennsylvania Dutch treats. Open daily. B, L, D (daily). 12th and Arch streets, 215.922.2317.www.reading terminalmarket.org

DINING

East Passyunk Avenue IN THE VALLEY— AMERICAN “Top Chef” winner Nicholas Elmi’s casual counterpoint to his lauded next-door dining room, Laurel, offers a top-shelf cocktail program, plus equally delicious spins from a focused, seasonal menu. D (Tu-Su). 1615 E. Passyunk Ave., 267.858.0669. www.itvphilly. com

steaks & hoagies

TOWNSEND—FRENCH Chef-owner Townsend Wentz’s eponymous fine-dining spot is known for masterful food and wine pairings. Snag a bar seat if tables are hard to come by. D (W-M). 1623 E. Passyunk Ave., 267.639.3203. www.townsend restaurant.com

Midtown Village INDEBLUE—INDIAN Take your tastebuds on a journey with dishes like shrimp and crab moilee and a brunch menu that puts Indian spins on familiar classics. L (M-F), D (daily), Br (Sa-Su). 205 S. 13th St., 215.545.4633. www.inde bluerestaurant.com

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W H E R E T R AV E L E R ® P H I L A D E L P H I A

WINTER HAPPENINGS

PENN MUSEUM Experience the magnificent new Mexico and Central

THE MÜTTER MUSEUM OF THE COLLEGE OF PHYSICIANS OF PHILADELPHIA

America Gallery, alongside the Africa Galleries, Ancient

The Mütter Museum displays preserved collections of

Egypt, Rome, Greece, China, and more. Located across

anatomical specimens, models, and medical instruments

from Franklin Field, the @PennMuseum is designed for

in a 19th-century “cabinet museum” setting to help the

everyone with family friendly cultural festivals, film

public understand the mysteries and beauty of the human

screenings, guided tours, and a 15-minute conversational

body and the history of diagnosis and treatment of disease.

Daily Dig to “dig a little deeper” into one artifact.

19 S. 22nd St., Philadelphia, PA 19103, 215.560.8564, muttermuseum.org

#MeetMeAtTheSphinx 3260 South St. Philadelphia 19104 215.898.4000 www.penn.museum

AMERICAN SWEDISH HISTORICAL MUSEUM Light, warmth and Christmas songs have been hallmarks of the Lucia celebration at ASHM since 1939. Stroll through the Christmas Market where delicacies, crafts, decorations, and gifts may be purchased. The lights will dim for a performance of holiday songs and dances, which are sure to warm your heart in the cold of winter.

1900 Pattison Ave. Philadelphia, PA 19145, 215.389.1776, www.americanswedish.org

BATTLESHIP NEW JERSEY Bring in the New Year aboard the BATTLESHIP New Jersey! Families can sleep aboard the ship on New Year’s Eve and enjoy dinner, breakfast, a tour, and a great view of the midnight fireworks. Or come aboard to watch the 6pm or Midnight fireworks on New Year’s Eve for just a $10 donation!

Camden Waterfront, New Jersey 856.966.1652 ext. 203 www.BattleshipNewJersey.org

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TREDICI ENOTECA— MEDITERANNEAN This lovely spot focuses on small plates like bacon-wrapped dates stuffed with manchego and blue cheese, but also highlights a raw bar and mains like Moroccanspiced ribs. L, D (daily). 114 S. 13th St., 267.928.2092. tredicienoteca.com

Northern Liberties & Fishtown FRANKFORD HALL— GERMAN Stephen Starr’s beer garden has counter service, communal tables and alfresco ping-pong for working off sauerkraut, schnitzel, bratwurst and käsekrainer. L (Sa-Su), D (daily). 1210 Frankford Ave., 215.634.3338. www.frankfordhall.com

DINING

SURAYA—MIDDLE EASTERN Nick Kennedy’s all-day market and cafe makes it easy to get in and out quickly, but diners may opt to linger inside the beautifully decorated space and garden. D (Tu-Su), L (Tu-F), Br (Sa-Su). 161 W. Girard Ave., 215.302.1900. www.suraya philly.com

Old City THE BOURSE FOOD HALL—INTERNATIONAL This 1895 Victorian building on the National Register of Historic Places was once the country’s first commodities exchange.

Now it’s a hip spot for artisanal food and retail. B, L, D (daily).

111 S. Independence Mall E., 215.625.0300. www.theboursephilly.com ROYAL BOUCHERIE— FRENCH “Top Chef” winner Nicholas Elmi’s cozy tavern has two bars (one for drink; the other for oysters) and a stick-to-yourribs menu of hearty classics, all set to a feel-good soundtrack veering from soul to indie rock.

L (M-F), D (daily), Br (Sa-Su). 52 S. Second St., 267.606.6313. www.royal boucherie.com

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ZAHAV—MIDDLE EASTERN James Beard- and Michelinawarded chef Michael Solomonov’s restaurant serves a well-edited menu of small plates with tasting options.

Inventive cocktails; Israeli wines.

Reservations recommended.

D (daily). 237 St. James Place, 215.625.8800. www.zahavrestaurant.com

GALLERY & AUCTION HOUSE

Penn’s Landing & Waterfront CHART HOUSE— SEAFOOD Waterfront views of Penn’s Landing, the Delaware River and the Philadelphia skyline set a dramatic stage for updated classic steaks and seafood entrées, along with renowned prime rib specials. D (daily), Br (Su). 555 S. Columbus Blvd., 215.625.8383. www.chart-house.com CHERRY STREET PIER— INTERNATIONAL A century-old former municipal pier is now a vibrant mixeduse hotspot with a food hall, marketplace and artist studios, plus regular events. L, D (daily).

121 N. Christopher Columbus Blvd., 215.923.0818. www. cherrystreetpier.com KEATING’S ROPE & ANCHOR, BAR + KITCHEN— CONTEMPORARY AMERICAN At the Hilton Hotel, diners tuck into oaksmoked salmon or a New York strip steak while gazing out at the Delaware River. Inside, a buzzy bar pours handcrafted cocktails to the tunes of a live band. B, L, D (daily). 201 S. Christopher Columbus Blvd., 215.521.6509. www.ropeand anchorkitchen.com

South Philly & Italian Market GENO’S STEAKS— CHEESESTEAKS Geno’s serves up classic steaks with Philly flair. The inevitable line provides time to figure out what to order; when you get to the counter, make it fast and simple. Cash only. B, L, D (daily, 24 hours). 1219 S. Ninth St., 215.389.0659. www.genos

Specializing in:

Warhol • Haring • Basquiat • Lichtenstein Louis Icart • Dali • Picasso • Miro Chagall • Neiman • Tarkay • Jerry Garcia Animation • Max • Mr. Brainwash • Banksy KAWS • Monet • Renoir • Pissarro • Degas All contemporary artists at wholesale prices.

606 Spring Garden Street (side parking lot entrance) 215-731-9200 danefineart.com

Open 6 days, 11-6 Evenings & Sundays by appointment only.

We ship Globally.

Philadelphia’s Oldest Ale House

Named one of the

Most Authentic Irish Pubs in America

by USA Today

Featuring - 30 Draft Beers Karaoke, Sunday & Wednesday @ 9 pm Kitchen open until 1 am, 7 days

1310 Drury Street Between Sansom and Chestnut, 13th and Juniper

215-735-5562

www.mcgillins.com

W H E R E T R AV E L E R ® P H I L A D E L P H I A

JIM’S SOUTH STREET— CHEESESTEAKS Since 1976, visitors and locals alike have been flocking to this temple to cheesesteak inside an Art Deco storefront on lively South Street.

Find hoagies, too. L, D (daily). 400 South St., 215.928.1911. www. jimssouth street.com PAT’S KING OF STEAKS— CHEESESTEAKS Billed as the originator of the cheesesteak sandwich, this shop is a favorite that attracts fans from around the world. Local tip: Order “Whiz wit.” B, L, D (daily 24 hours). 1237 E. Passyunk Ave., 215.468.1546. www.patskingof steaks.com SABRINA’S CAFE— AMERICAN This cozy, family-owned neighborhood cafe is lauded for having one of the best brunches in town. BYOB. Hours vary by location. 910-912 Christian St., 215.574.1599. www.sabrinascafe.com

South Street & Queen Village CRY BABY PASTA— ITALIAN The husband-andwife team behind fave Bridget Foy’s serves from-scratch staples like rigatoni alla vodka and chicken Française. D (Tu-Su).

627 S. 3rd St., 267.534.3076. crybabypasta.com HUNGRY PIGEON— AMERICAN Scott Schroeder’s easygoing, all-day cafe serves up food that simply tastes good. The menu lists the day’s offerings (all locally sourced) in minimalist language that belies how delicious everything is. Pastries from the in-house bakery are a must.

B, L, D (daily). 743 S. 4th St., 215.278.2736. www.hungrypigeon.com

University City DISTRITO—MEXICAN Philly’s acclaimed Jose Garces’ high-energy spot offers fresh takes on classic Latin fare, inspired by the spirited culture and cuisine of Mexico City. L, D (daily). 3945 Chestnut St., 215.222.1657. www.distrito restaurant.com WALNUT STREET CAFE— AMERICAN The team behind New York City’s Michelin-starred Rebelle offers all-day grazing, grab-and-go options and entrees from a cheeseburger to a porterhouse steak for two. B, L (M-F), D (M-Sa), Br (Sa-Su). 2929 Walnut St., 215.867.8067. www.walnut streetcafe.com

Washington Square AMIS—ITALIAN At Marc Vetri’s convivial trattoria, locals dig into tapas-style fare like bone-in strip steak, pork chop parmigiana and monkfish cacciatore. D (daily), Br (Su). 412 S. 13th St., 215.732.2647. www. amisphilly.com EL FUEGO—MEXICAN This happening BYOB whips up tasty “California-style” burritos, along with tacos, quesadillas and soups. The lunch hour is particularly lively, so plan accordingly.

L, D (M-Sa).

723 Walnut St., 215.592.1931. www.elfuegophilly.com RISTORANTE AROMA— ITALIAN Chef duo Antonio Cardillo and Gianluca Forastiere whip up hand-made pastas and entrees like grilled lamb chops and veal medallions redolent with garlic and herbs. D (daily).

1120 Pine St., 267.314.5315. www.ristorante aromaphilly.com

OPEN FOR LUNCH, BRUNCH, DINNER AND LATE NIGHT

“A lively, French-inspired brasserie from celebrated chef Nicholas Elmi, nestled in Historic Old City Philadelphia.”

52 South 2nd Street Philadelphia, PA 19106 | (267) 606-6313 | www.royalboucherie.com 27

THE GUIDE

THE TWISTED TAIL— AMERICAN This lively emporium features a menu of charcoal-grilled fare, 40-plus bourbons and plenty of craft beer. Dine indoors or out, then climb up the stairs for some rock-

in’ live music. L (M-F), D (daily), Br (Sa-Su). 509 S. Second St., 215.558.2471. www.thetwisted tail.com

Dining

steaks.com

VEDGE—VEGAN Richard Landau and Kate Jacoby put haute cuisine twists on vegan dishes like “seared maitake mushroom” with celery root fritter, smoked remoulade and a leek “ash” vinaigrette.

Reservations required. D (daily).

1221 Locust St., 215.320.7500. www.vedge restaurant.com

EXPLORE Tours CITY HALL INTERIOR AND TOWER TOURS These tours explore the history, art and architecture of the world’s highest masonry load-bearing structure. Interior & tower: $8-$15. M-F 12:30 pm.

Tower only: $4-$8. M-F 9:30 am-4:15 pm. 1 S. Penn Square, 267.514.4757. www.phlvisitor center.com/cityhall

EXPLORE

MURAL ARTS PROGRAM TOURS Explore the world’s largest outdoor art gallery on foot or via trolley, train or Segway, led by experienced guides, who offer insights and reveal the stories behind the works. Tickets/reservations online. 128 N. Broad St., 215.925.3633. www.muralarts. org/tour

Transportation NEW JERSEY TRANSIT This system provides convenient bus and train service between Philadelphia and Atlantic City (and beyond). Trains to Atlantic City depart from 30th Street Station. Buses leave regularly from the Greyhound bus terminal at 10th and Filbert streets.

Call for pricing. 973.275.5555. www.njtransit.com SEPTA The Southeastern Pennsylvania Transportation Authority provides bus, train, trolley and subway service throughout the city and surrounding suburbs.

One-way subway or bus fare: $2.50. One-day convenience pass (8 rides): $9. 215.580.7800. www. septa.org

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Specializing in California-style burritos featuring fresh ingredients in sumptuous portions at aordable prices.

Lunch and Dinner BYOB

el fuego 723 Walnut Street • 215.592.1931

Facebook.com/elfuegoburritosphilly www.elfuegophilly.com

W H E R E T R AV E L E R ® P H I L A D E L P H I A

CITY HALL VISITOR CENTER The center lets visitors experience one of the city’s most iconic buildings and offers maps and brochures. Open M-F (& select Sa). 1 S. Penn Square, Room 121, 267.514.4757. www.phlvisitor center.com/cityhall INDEPENDENCE VISITOR CENTER This facility serves as the starting point for touring Independence National Historical Park and greater Philadelphia. Find multilingual staff, maps and brochures and tickets to tours and attractions.

Open daily. 599 Market St., 800.537.7676. www.phlvisitor center.com/independence visitorcenter VISIT PHILLY This resource provides valuable information and tips on getting around, top restaurants, events and more. www.visitphilly.com

Classical & Opera KIMMEL CENTER FOR THE PERFORMING ARTS Multiple stages offer world-class dance, theater and music. The Kimmel’s trademark is the spectacular 150-foot vaulted glass ceiling enclosing “two jewels inside a glass box.” 300 S. Broad Street, 215.893.1999. www. kimmelcenter.org THE PHILADELPHIA ORCHESTRA Founded in 1900, the orchestra has distinguished itself as one of the leading ensembles in the world, led by dynamic music director Yannick Nézet-Séguin.

Kimmel Center, 300 S. Broad St., 215.893.1999. www.philorch.org

Live Music Venues

THE MET PHILADELPHIA Oscar Hammerstein’s 1908 Metropolitan Opera House has earned a reputation as one of the city’s premier stages, with spots on both the Pennsylvania and national historic registers. 858 N. Broad St., 800.745.3000. www. themetphilly.com

FORREST THEATRE This elegant, historic theater hosts touring Broadway shows and some of the city’s best productions. 1114 Walnut St., Tickets, 800.447.7400. www. forrest-theatre.com WALNUT STREET THEATRE America’s oldest continuously operating theater has been bringing classics (including children’s tales) to life on stage since

12th & Arch Sts. Philly, PA 19107

HO S

L OCA L P

Discover the diversity of fresh & prepared foods available at the Market’s 80+ merchants.

From Amish made breakfasts to international cuisines- we’ve got something for everyone’s appetite.

Open Every Day from 8 AM – 6 PM 215•922•2317 ReadingTerminalMarket.org

1809. Full schedule online. 825 Walnut St., 215.574.3550. www. walnutstreettheatre.org

Bars & Lounges THE FRANKLIN BAR Inside the former Franklin Mortgage & Investment Co., this speakeasy pours carefully crafted cocktails. Open daily. 112 S. 18th St., 267.467.3277. www. thefranklinbar.com KHYBER PASS PUB Settle in at one of the well-worn booths or at the bar in this down-to-earth pub. The 22 craft beers on tap rotate constantly, with endless bottle choices hailing from around the world.

Open daily. 56 S. Second St., 215.238.5888. www.khyber passpub.com MCGILLIN’S OLD ALE HOUSE Opened in 1860, this historic taproom is Philly’s oldest and claims the city’s first liquor license. Open daily. 1310 Drury St., 215.735.5562. www.mcgil lins.com PHILADELPHIA DISTILLING This modern warehouse makes a stunning setting for sampling spirits and offers tours through the distilling process, with hand-hammered copper stills and wooden fermentation vessels dating to 1854. Open Th-Su (book tours/tastings online). 25 E. Allen St., 215.671.0346. www. philadelphiadistilling.com THE RANSTEAD ROOM This dimly lit spot serves libations in true speakeasy style.

Look for the “RR” on the door.

Open daily. 2013 Ranstead St., 215.563.3330. www.ranstead room.com

Gay & Lesbian THE BIKE STOP This club has been around a long time and continues to keep the fun interesting thanks to several floors highlighting different themes. Open daily. 204 S. Quince St., 215.627.1662. www. thebikestop.com

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THE GUIDE

THE FILLMORE PHILADELPHIA Fishtown’s Ajax Metal Factory is now a state-of-the-art venue,

honoring the traditions of historic Fillmore music halls and weaving in some Philly flavor.

The intimate Foundry showcases local bands and DJs. 29 E. Allen St., 215.309.0150. www. thefillmorephilly.com

Arts

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Visitor Information

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F I N D M O R E T O E X P L O R E I N P H I L A D E L P H I A T H I S M O N T H AT WHERETRAVELER.COM/PHILADELPHIA/LOCAL-EVENTS

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PARTING SHOT

An Absolute Must Do in Philadelphia is...

The Rocky Statue — a larger-than-life boxer —one of Philadelphia’s most famous pieces of public art. Visiting the statue, running up the steps and taking a picture at the top is a must on any first visit to Philly.

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W H E R E T R AV E L E R ® P H I L A D E L P H I A