Where Wine Country 2016

WINE COUNTRY DINING | ATTRACTIONS | CULTURE | WINERIES | MAP

SIP, SAVOR &

DISCOVER WINE COUNTRY FOR LOVERS

LEGENDARY WINE TASTING ROUTES

QUAINT DOWNTOWNS

WELCOME

A letter from the publisher

Bartholomew Park Winery

©JENNIFER WHALEN

I

n this issue of Where Wine Country you’ll find inspiration for exploring the region’s various wine tasting trails, and since this issue is published in February, the month of love, we offer a few ideas to impress your Valentine (although these experiences are fitting for any time of year– with a significant other or with friends!).

Bay Area wine country is of course best known for its namesake, some of the world’s most flavorful wines, grown from the appellations that allow for some of the most exquisite varietals. Whether they come from the Central Coast AVA appellations or the Sonoma County or Napa Valley appellations, your palate will be treated to some of the most beautiful and world-renowned wines.

But wine country is not just for the wine connoisseurs; it is for anyone who wants to relax and enjoy the finer things in life. A simple drive (or tour or car service) can take you there. Head north, south or east of San Francisco to enjoy many of the region’s beautiful art galleries or entertainment venues. Visit one of the many spas for an indulgent mud bath or any number of unique pampering treatments. Take in a concert or perhaps indulge in a scenic bike tour before you choose from one of many scrumptious dining establishments.

Cheers!

NIKKI WOOD, GROUP PUBLISHER

 Ready to plan your trip to wine country? Find even more information at wheretraveler.com/san-francisco.

2016 I W H E R E W I N E CO U N T R Y 1

CONTENTS

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IN THIS ISSUE

6

CALENDAR

The top wine country events.

8

WINE COUNTRY NOW Legendary wine tasting trails, arts and culture and a winemaker's perspective.

12

WINE COUNTRY FOR LOVERS

The 10 most romantic things to do in wine country.

14

KEEP IT IN TOWN

Spend a day exploring and tasting in one of wine country's quaint downtowns.

16

12

The region's wineries, restaurants, attractions and shops.

30

MAP

Navigating wine country, from north to south and A to Z.

32

MY WINE COUNTRY Jean-Charles Boisset's guide to his Northern California home.

WINE COUNTRY DINING | ATTRACTIONS | CULTURE | WINERIES | MAP

SIP, SAVOR &

DISCOVER WINE COUNTRY FOR LOVERS

14 2 W H E R E W I N E CO U N T R Y I 2016

16

LEGENDARY WINE TASTING ROUTES

QUAINT DOWNTOWNS

ON THE COVER

CLOS DU VAL WINERY ©JENNIFER WHALEN

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: ©JIM SULLIVAN; ©JENNIFER WHALEN; COURTESY CARPE DIEM WINE BAR

WINE COUNTRY GUIDE

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4 W H E R E W I N E CO U N T R Y I 2016

CALENDAR

TOP STOPS

What’s happening in seconds flat

co-founder of the super group Humble Pie and for numerous solo albums including one of the best-selling live records ever released. Meet and Greet and VIP packages available. 1350 3rd St., Napa, 707.259.0123, uptowntheatrenapa.com MARCH 26 LIVERMORE HALF MARATHON One of California’s oldest wine regions is the setting for this half marathon, which starts and finishes on First Street in downtown Livermore. Celebrate the finish with local wines, craft beers and live music. runliv.com

Valentine’s Day on the Napa Valley Wine Train Celebrate the international day of romance in classic, charming style aboard the Napa Valley Wine Train. Journey through Napa’s picturesque scenery and tour idyllic wineries. On dinner trains, a strolling violinist serenades guests. Tickets start at $134. 1275 McKinstry St., Napa, 800.427.4124, winetrain.com FEBRUARY 6 WINTER TASTING SERIES: THE BIG GAME AT PEJU PROVINCE WINERY Sample big game bites from chef Alex Espinoza paired with fullbodied Peju reds as you watch the big game. 8466 St. Helena Hwy., Rutherford, 800.446.7358, peju.com THROUGH FEBRUARY 7 CALISTOGA’S WINTER IN WIN ERIES PASSPORT SERIES Sample wines, meet the winemakers and tour 15 of Calistoga’s celebrated wineries, both large and small, for a fraction of the price. The pass also includes discounts on shopping and lodging. visitcalistoga.com MARCH 713 SONOMA COUNTY RESTAURANT WEEK 6 W H E R E W I N E CO U N T R Y I 2016

Many of Sonoma’s top restaurants offer two-course prix-fixe lunch options as well as three-course prix-fixe dinners. Reservations recommended. sonomacounty.com MARCH 6 NAPA VALLEY MARATHON Known as the “biggest little marathon in the West,” this picturesque point-to-point course is relatively flat and meanders through the rolling hills of one of the most beautiful regions in the world. napavalleymarathon.org MARCH 1620 FLAVOR! NAPA VALLEY This five-day celebration of farmto-table cuisine and local wines features local and celebrity chef demos, winemaking workshops and the Grant Tasting at CIA at Greystone, offering VIP access to library wines. flavornapavalley.com

MARCH 19 PETER FRAMPTON RAW AN ACOUSTIC TOUR AT UPTOWN THEATRE Celebrated rock musician and Grammy Award winner Peter Frampton brings his acoustic tour to Napa’s historic Uptown Theatre. Frampton is known as the

APRIL 9 APPELLATION ST. HELENA BASH This annual food and wine pairing competition is held at the Culinary Institute of America at Greyhound. Taste 35 St. Helena Appellation wines with pairings from the region’s best chefs and CIA students and then vote for your favorites. 2555 Main St., St. Helena, 707.967.1100, appellationsthelena.com

Arts in April

FROM TOP: COURTESY NAPA VALLEY WINE TRAIN; ARTS IN APRIL

FEBRUARY 14

APRIL 130 ARTS IN APRIL Many of the more than 70 area wineries maintaining public art collections host docent-led tours, special exhibitions, lectures and artist-in-residency programs. artscouncilnapavalley.org

WINE COUNTRY NOW maker Dario Sattui of St. Helena’s V. Sattui Winery.

• State Route 121, also known as the Silverado Trail, stretches parallel to Highway 29 along the less crowded eastern side of Napa Valley. Dozens of notable wineries along the Silverado Trail include Rombauer Vineyards, Rutherford Ranch, Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars and Clos Du Val Winery.

• In northern Sonoma County, the Sonoma Wine Road offers countless options, encompassing the Alexander, Dry Creek and Russian River valleys. Start with Benziger Family Winery and Madrone Vineyards Estate in Glen Ellen, swing north to Jordan Winery in Healdsburg, and stop at the cluster of tasting rooms in Geyserville. Don’t forget to mark your calendar for early March, when the annual Sonoma County Restaurant Week kicks off across the valley and 100-plus wineries participate in the annual Barrel Tasting all along the Sonoma Wine Road.

Tasting Trails MAP YOUR NEXT TASTING TOUR THROUGH WINE COUNTRY WITH THESE CLASSIC ROUTES.

BY BRITTANY SHooT

Napa Valley is known for its north-south State Route 29 that stretches the length of the valley.

The vineyard-lined lane is dotted with famous estates including Domaine Chandon, Cakebread Cellars and St. Supery. One beloved way to see the sights, as well as stop and sip, is aboard the Napa Valley Wine Train, which chugs between vineyards and tasting rooms along a 25-mile track.

8 W H E R E W I N E CO U N T R Y I 2016

• In the small town of Rutherford, detour to Peju Province Winery for Cabernet Franc. For Cabernet Sauvignon, head to Beaulieu Vineyards, Napa Valley’s longest continually operating winery.

Rutherford is also home to Grgich Hills Estate , a Wine Train stop known for a French oak-aged Chardonnay and complex reds.

• In Calistoga, get out and stretch your legs. Sterling Vineyards boasts bold single-vineyard and reserve Cabernet Sauvignons and an aerial tram that ferry visitors to the ridge-top tasting room. You can also disembark the Wine Train at Castello di Amorosa, a Tuscan-style castle and tasting room built by legendary wine-

Clos Du Val Winery

• The Livermore Wine Trail offers rich red wines at spots such as Wente Vineyards, the country’s oldest continuously operated family-owned winery. The fifthgeneration estate offers a robust collection including estategrown Cabernet Sauvignon and a small-lot Pinot Blanc. While in Livermore, stop and sip Cabernet Sauvignon at McGrail Vineyards and Winery and Petite Sirah at Concannon Vineyard.

FROM TOP: COURTESY NAPA VALLEY WINE TRAIN; ©JENNIFER WHALEN

Napa Valley Wine Train

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pairings (11 am-4 pm on weekends). Or reserve a seat in the private library for the Vintage Select Food and Wine Pairing (2 pm on weekends; $95). You’ll taste family reserve and limited release wines paired with gourmet bites like Cowgirl creamery Mt. Tam on brioche and cocoa rubbed noisettes of lamb with cabernet infused cherries during the guided tasting preceded by a tour.

2800 Main St., St. Helena, charleskrug.com

Charles Krug

Wine Tasting Experiences

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY CHARLES KRUG; ©JOHN BEDELL/HALL WINES

A visit to wine country no longer has to entail bellying up to tasting counter after tasting counter. Nowadays wineries are inviting guests to slow down with memorable tasting affairs that educate and entertain.

Appellation Exploration at Hall Rutherford This intimate 90-minute tour and tasting at a gorgeous property in the sunny hills of Rutherford is an opportunity to sample some of the most high-end, limited production wines from one of Napa Valley’s most critically acclaimed wineries. You’ll learn about Hall’s innovative winemaking methods, encounter a range of contemporary art, taste from the barrel and sit down in the Chandelier Cave (where 1,500 Swarovski crystals shower down from a model of grapevine roots) to taste three distinct wines, each one of the

same vintage and made by the same winemakers but profoundly different owing to its appellation. $125.

56 Auberge Rd., Rutherford, hallwines.com

Winter Wine and Food Pairings at Charles Krug Warm up with wine and comforting Italian dishes inside the handsomely renovated tasting room at Napa Valley’s oldest winery. For a casual snack, drop in and order a la carte from a short menu of small plates like brown butter corn polenta and Tuscan meatball sliders with smoked mozzarella alongside suggested wine

Bruschetta + Wine Tasting Trio at Vino Velo At this friendly, cyclingthemed tasting room from the founders of Clif Bar and Clif Family Winery three bruschetta bites from the Bruschetteria food truck are paired with three limitedproduction Clif Family wines in an interactive tasting.

Parked off the garden patio, the truck offers a Northern Italian-inspired menu that emphasizes fresh ingredients from the winery’s farm.

The lineup changes daily but can feature combinations like seasonal mushrooms with fontina and chives or shaved prime rib with arugula and parmesan.

Reservations suggested. $30. 709 Main St., St. Helena, cliffamilywinery.com

A Feast for the Senses

NAPA VALLEY WINE TRAIN

PARADISE RIDGE WINERY

PEJU PROVINCE WINERY

(following page)

4545 Thomas Lake Harris Dr., Santa Rosa, prwinery.com DI ROSA

5200 Carneros Hwy., Napa, dirosaart.org QUIXOTE WINERY

6126 Silverado Trail, Napa, quixotewinery. com THE HESS COLLECTION WINERY

4411 Redwood Rd., Napa, hesscollection.com ARTESA VINEYARDS AND WINERY

345 Henry Rd., Napa, artesawinery.com MUMM NAPA

8445 Silverado Trail, Napa, mummnapa. com HALL WINES

401 St. Helena Hwy., St. Helena, hallwines.com NIMBUS ARTS

649 Main St., St Helena, nimbusarts.org INDIAN SPRINGS ART GALLERY

1506 Lincoln Ave., Calistoga, indianspringsartgallery.com CALISTOGA POTTERY

1001 Foothill Blvd., Calistoga, calistogapottery.com CALISTOGA ART CENTER

1435 N Oak St., Calistoga, calistogaartcenter.org UPTOWN THEATRE

1350 3rd St., Napa, uptowntheatrenapa.com WENTE VINEYARDS

5050 Arroyo Rd., Livermore, wentevineyards. com

Tasting Trails (preceding page)

DOMAINE CHANDON

1 California Dr., Yountville, chandon.com CAKEBREAD CELLARS

8300 St. Helena Hwy., Napa, cakebread.com ST. SUPERY

Hall Rutherford

8440 St Helena Hwy., Rutherford, stsupery.com

1275 McKinstry St., Napa, winetrain.com 8466 St. Helena Hwy., Rutherford, peju.com BEAULIEU VINEYARDS

1960 St. Helena Hwy., Rutherford, bvwines.com GRGICH HILLS ESTATE

1829 St. Helena Hwy., Rutherford, grgich.com STERLING VINEYARDS

1111 Dunaweal Ln., Calistoga, sterlingvineyards.com CASTELLO DI AMOROSA

4045 St. Helena Hwy., Calistoga, castellodiamorosa.com V. SATTUI WINERY

1111 White Ln., St. Helena, vsattui.com ROMBAUER VINEYARDS

3522 Silverado Trail N, St. Helena, rombauer.com RUTHERFORD RANCH

1680 Silverado Trail S, St. Helena, rutherfordwine. com STAG'S LEAP WINE CELLARS

5766 Silverado Trail, Napa, cask23.com CLOS DU VAL WINERY

5330 Silverado Trail, Napa, closduval.com BENZIGER FAMILY WINERY

1883 London Ranch Rd., Glen Ellen, benziger.com MADRONE VINEYARD ESTATE

777 Madrone Rd., Glen Ellen, madronevineyardestate.com JORDAN WINERY

1474 Alexander Valley Rd., Healdsburg, jordanwinery.com WENTE VINEYARDS

5050 Arroyo Rd., Livermore, wentevineyards. com MCGRAIL VINEYARDS AND WINERY

5600 Greenville Rd., Livermore, mcgrailvineyards.com CONCANNON VINEYARD

4590 Tesla Rd., Livermore, concannonvineyard.com

2016 I W H E R E W I N E CO U N T R Y 9

Hall St. Helena

A FEAST FOR THE SENSES

Pair your pour with wine country’s entertainment and cultural offerings.

—BRITTANY SHOOT

In Napa, boutique winery Quixote is known for its Petite Syrah and beautiful tile mosaics.

winery-turned-contemporary art museum features three galleries, a sculpture meadow and a picturesque lake and wildlife preserve.

In Napa, boutique winery Quixote is known for its Petite Syrah and beautiful ceramic tile mosaics. The Hess Collection winery and art collection offers Chardonnay and Malbec paired with Donald Hess’ personal art collection.

Featured artists include pioneering abstract painter Robert Motherwell and famed Polish fiber artist Magdalena Abakanowicz. At Artesa Vineyards and Winery, artist-in-residence Gor-

A visit to wine country is about more than tantalizing your

don Huether showcases mixed media creations utilizing metal,

palate. Sonoma County boasts gems like Paradise Ridge

glass and canvas. Visit Mumm Napa to sip fine bubbles while

Winery, a charming winery known for its Sauvignon Blanc

enjoying fine art photography. The work of rock music photog-

and its impressive sculpture garden. Tucked between Napa

rapher Jim Marshall is on view now though the end of May.

and Sonoma, the standout collection at the di Rosa

Q&A

Ask a Winemaker For the past decade, Sara Fowler has been the winemaker at Peju Province Winery, a family-owned and operated boutique winery in Rutherford producing sustainably farmed wines. She’s earned a reputation for her innovative blending and travels the world as a wine educator and speaker.

10 W H E R E W I N E CO U N T R Y I 2016

Heading north to St. Helena, Hall Wines crafts Merlot and

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY HALL WINES (2); PEJU PROVINCE WINERY

Hall St. Helena

WINE COUNTRY NOW curates an impressive outdoor sculpture garden that includes Patrick Dougherty’s elaborate woven stickwork and the stainless steel “Bunny Foo Foo” sculpture that leaps above the vineyard. For a more hands-on experience, nearby non-profit Nimbus Arts offers community workshops, lecture series and camps for children and adults.

Stopping in Calistoga, check out the Indian Springs Art Gallery, featuring abstract and figurative paintings and photography, and Calistoga Pottery, potter couple Sally and Jeff Manfredi’s lovely studio shop. Consult the calendar at the Calistoga Art Center for upcoming art markets or paint and sip evenings.

While in wine country, you’ll also want to enjoy the lively arts offerings. At Napa’s Uptown Theatre, enjoy a range of performances, including February shows by headliners the Indigo Girls and the Charlie Daniels Band. In the coming

Mumm Napa

months, join living legends such as Peter Frampton and FROM TOP: COURTESY MUMM NAPA; ©MITCHELL GLOTZER PHOTOGRAPHY

David Crosby in concert, or get tickets to see humorist David Sedaris.

Plan ahead to take in a summer concert at Livermore’s Wente Vineyards, the country’s oldest continuously operated familyowned winery, which boasts two tasting rooms and a seasonal, ingredient-driven menu in its estate restaurant. Past headliners at the vineyard’s annual summer series include James Taylor, Diana Ross, Willie Nelson

Uptown Theatre

and Sheryl Crow.

How did you get in the wine industry?

My first job was working on the mobile bottling line at Kendall-Jackson in the mid-’80s. My father and I use to brew beer together when I was in high school, so I was interested in fermentation from a young age. I worked a few harvests and eventually went to Fresno State to study enology. I’ve been making wine ever since. Last year was my 21st harvest!

What wines do you think Northern California does best?

I think it really depends where in Northern California we are talking about. For Napa, Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux varietals in general show best. Overall, Northern California is unique because we have so many microclimates. It’s hard to find a wine varietal that’s doesn’t grow well in at least one part of NorCal.

What Northern California wines have you been enjoying lately?

Recently, I’ve been imbibing in my fair share of Schramsberg and Roederer sparkling wines. It’s a great way to celebrate!

What advice do you have for visitors who are new to wine tasting?

Spit! Seriously, taste the wine, but spit it out. By spitting you can try many more wines without becoming too tipsy to enjoy your day (or more likely your evening).

There are so many amazing wineries here.

Enjoy some of the wine at each, but If you monitor how much you actually drink, you will have a much more memorable experience. Also, don’t be afraid to branch out, you may not think you’ll enjoy that wine you can’t pronounce, but it could end up being your new fave!

2016 I W H E R E W I N E CO U N T R Y 11

WINE COUNTRY

FOR LOVERS 10 OF THE MOST ROMANTIC EXPERIENCES IN WINE COUNTRY

Just being in wine country can be romantic. With mild weather year-round, a picturesque countryside of vineyards and undulating hills, Michelin-starred restaurants and hundreds of wineries making some of the world’s best wines, this part of Northern California seems made for love. Here are 10 of the most romantic things you can do in this idyllic place.

Castello di Amorosa 12 W H E R E C I T Y N A M E I M O N T H Y E A R

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1

HOT AIR BALLOON RIDES Float up to watch the sunrise over an endless landscape of vineyards, valleys and mountainsides. Up & Away Ballooning serves Sonoma, and Napa Valley Aloft Balloon Rides lifts off in Yountville. 2200 Airport Blvd, Santa Rosa, up-away.com; 6525 Washington St., Yountville, nvaloft.com

2

GEOTHERMAL WATERS It’s easy to unwind on the manicured grounds of the chic Solage Calistoga resort, where the spacious spa offers Starlight at the Bathhouse. You’ll have the spring-fed pools to yourself as you steam and soak under the stars after hours. Sparkling wine and dessert included. 755 Silverado Trail, Calistoga, solagecalistoga.com

OPPOSITE PAGE: ©JIM SULLIVAN. THIS PAGE FROM TOP: COURTESY NV ALOFT BALLOON RIDES; SOLAGE CALISTOGA

3

ARTISAN CHOCOLATES The handmade, jewel-like truffles created by self-taught celebrity chocolatier chef Kollar at Kollar Chocolates in Yountville’s V Marketplace come in unexpected flavors like fennel pollen and lavender that are inspired by the surrounding flora. In downtown St. Helena, family-owned Woodhouse

Chocolate turns out European confections like Champagne truffles at its elegant store with a soaring ceiling and grand crystal chandelier. 6525 Washington St., Yountville, kollarchocolates.com; 1367 Main St., St. Helena, woodhousechocolate.com

4

COOKING CLASSES Team up to learn new skills at Ramekins Culinary School by the Sonoma Plaza. Workshop titles include the Art of French Cooking, a Taste of Spain and Italian Countryside. Peju Province Winery’s Interactive Experience Culinaire will have you trying out professional techniques in the kitchen. After the peeling and chopping, you’ll take a tour of the estate and enjoy a wine and cheese tasting followed by lunch. 450 West Spain St., Sonoma, ramekins.com; 8466 St. Helena Hwy., Rutherford, peju.com

5

SPARKLING WINES Sip bubbly overlooking Carneros vineyards on the patio or balcony of Domaine Carneros’ grand French-style chateau. Or share a toast at Domaine Chandon’s shaded, hilltop estate.

1240 Duhig Rd., Napa, domainecar-

Napa Valley Aloft Balloon Rides

neros.com; 1 California Dr., Yountville, chandon.com

6

CASTLES Feel like you’re in a fairytale at Ledson Winery and Vineyards, housed in a French Normandy castle complete with spires, turrets, balconies and fountains. You can taste Italian-style wines at Castello di Amorosa, a model of a 13th century, 107-room Tuscan castle that has a moat with a drawbridge.

7335 Sonoma Hwy., Sonoma, ledson. com; 4045 St. Helena Hwy., Calistoga, castellodiamorosa.com

7

GARDENS Choose a bottle and roam the grounds at Peju Prov-

ince Winery, where you’ll find plenty of spots in the garden to settle in and sip, surrounded by flowers, lush lawn and sycamore trees. The fountain, koi pond and marble sculptures invite lingering. Far Niente Winery’s sprawling gardens look like something out of a storybook—a wonderland of azaleas, tulips, dogwoods, magnolias and stone bridges and pathways.

8466 St. Helena Hwy., Rutherford, peju.com; 1350 Acacia Dr., Oakville, farniente.com

8

TANDEM BIKES Roll through wine country on a bicycle built for two.

Rent a sporty tandem bike from Wine Country Bikes to ride around Healdsburg or explore Sonoma with a set of wheels from Wine Country Cyclery.

61 Front St., Healdsburg, winecountrybikes.com; 262 W Napa St., Sonoma, winecountrycyclery.com

9

CUSTOM BLENDING Work together to create your own signature wine during a blending session at Wente’s Winemaker’s Studio.

Save the bottle for a special occasion. 5565 Tesla Rd., Livermore Valley, wentewinemakers.com

10 Solage Calistoga

FIREPLACES Take in the sweeping view of Napa Valley while getting cozy around the big fire pit on Cade Winery ‘s patio, or curl up by the grand fireplace on Round Pond Estate’s veranda overlooking its vineyards. 360 Howell Mountain Rd. S, Angwin, cadewinery.com; 875 Rutherford Rd., Rutherford, roundpond.com 13

The Adobe

Wine Country’s Charming Downtowns

Northern California wine country is vast and sprawling, but a visit doesn’t require spending the day in the car, driving miles from winery to winery. Visit one of these quaint downtowns and leave the car parked for the day. You’ll find excellent tasting rooms, restaurants, shops and sites to explore on foot.

Yountville Population: Under 3,000 This sophisticated little town bordered by the Napa River and the Mayacamas mountains in the middle of Napa Valley has become a culinary mecca.

Yountville is home to the three Michelin

star French Laundry and three other restaurants from chef Thomas Keller, as well as luxury accommodations and spas. In the walkable downtown, you’ll come across more than 40 sculptures known as the Yountville Art Walk and the high-caliber Lincoln Theater.

14 W H E R E W I N E CO U N T R Y I 2016

EAT Along with chef Thomas Keller’s restaurants you'll find chef Richard Reddington’s Redd and Redd Wood, the former serving California cuisine and the latter firing up pizzas. Inside the ultra luxurious Bardessono resort is the sleek Lucy Restaurant &

Bar, which sources ingredients from an onsite garden. At Hurley’s the mood is inviting, thanks to a stone fireplace and a menu of upscale American dishes with no corkage fees.

SIP Cornerstone Cellars offers a spacious and attractive space to

SHOP AND EXPLORE Located in a winery built in 1870, V Marketplace is a two-story, brick shopping center housing galleries, boutiques and shops.

Inside the posh, understated North Block Hotel, North Block Spa offers a foot and back exfoliation and massage called UnCorked.

It mixes freshly ground grape seeds in a scrub and incorporates wine corks to stimulate reflex points. Napa

Valley Bike Tours offers bike rentals and guided tours.

Healdsburg Population: 11,500 Located at the intersection of three prime wine growing appellations, Dry Creek, Russian River and Alexander Valley, this small Sonoma town is quaint yet chic.

Anchored by a main plaza dating back to the 1800s and planted with redwoods, its downtown packs in an impressive number of Michelin-starred restaurants, tasting rooms, boutiques and art galleries.

EAT For a town of only four square miles, Healdsburg has an impressive

COURTESY THREE STICKS WINES

A DAY IN TOWN

taste, and at Hestan Vineyards you’ll find modern architecture and solid wines. Ma(i) sonry pours small batch, highly allocated wines from a handful of producers in a 1904 stone manor that’s also home to an art gallery.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY HEALDSBURG CHAMBER OF COMMERCE; CARPE DIEM WINE BAR; THREE STICKS WINES

w w w.wheretrave ler.c o m

food scene. Get a taste of its culinary offerings with Savor Healdsburg Food Tours, a progressive dining excursion entailing six stops. Some tours start at Shed, a soaring, barnlike structure of glass, steel and reclaimed wood (winner of a 2014 James Beard Award for design) that houses a coffee bar, fermentation bar, the Larder deli counter and a sit-down cafe. Shed is also a marketplace carrying produce, gourmet staples, gardening tools, DIY kits, kitchenware and gifts. Upstairs, the Grange events space hosts workshops and dinners with guests like Michael Pollan and Mark Bittman. The tour also makes stops at Campo Fina, an eatery serving small plates and pizza inside a cozy dining room with exposed brick and on a back patio with a wood-fired oven and bocce court.

SIP Gustafson Family Vineyards tasting room pours excellent Zinfandel, sourced exclusively from its mountain winery. You can taste Banshee Wines' in-demand, moderately priced wines at its tasting room outfitted in hip furnishings.

SHOP AND EXPLORE You’ll find boutiques, antique stores and eye-catching art galleries like Paul Mahder Gallery, which at

evening. Sip from a sophisticated selection wines from small producers.

where craveable California-Mediterranean cuisine shines in a swanky setting.

Cellars pours highly rated Pinot Noirs during seated tastings in a cozy home.

SHOP AND EXPLORE Take a stroll along the Napa riverfront or soak up some culture admiring the outdoor sculptures of the Napa Artwalk (pick up a map at the Napa Valley Welcome Center). Lucero Olive Oil has won more acclaim for its extra virgin olive oils than any other producer in North America. Try it for yourself free at the tasting room.

SIP History and design buffs will want to visit the Adobe, the new home of Three Sticks Wines near the Sonoma Plaza. Built in 1842, the newly restored building is the oldest residence in Sonoma. Sojourn

SHOP AND EXPLORE The Williams-Sonoma cookware chain re-opened its original location, founded in 1956. Other highlights include the Sonoma Cheese Factory and the eclectic home decor shop Chateau Sonoma.

Sonoma Population: Under 11,000

Healdsburg

8,500 square feet is an arts destination in itself. Small and free, the Healdsburg Museum and Historical Society located inside an old public library is worth a peek.

Napa Population: 71,000 Once sleepy, downtown Napa has become a buzzing destination for visitors and locals, who come for the restaurants, tasting rooms, shops, turn of the century architecture and river walkway.

EAT Inside the Westin Verasa Napa hotel, La Toque is a fine dining

destination known for its exceptional wine pairings and French-inspired menu from chef Ken Frank, who uses ingredients from his nearby garden. Oxbow Public Market is a lively one-stop destination with 22 merchants.

Order traditional pasta at Ca’ Momi or duck tacos at C Casa.

SIP Enjoy live music, cocktails and bites by the fire pit at Mercantile Terrace. On Main Street, 1313 Main is an upscale tasting lounge with an extensive wine list. Down the street, the chic and genial Carpe Diem Wine Bar has a tempting happy hour to kick off the

To plan your downtown outing, go to wheretraveler.com/san-francisco

The small town of Sonoma is marked by the Sonoma Plaza, the largest in the state.

Colonial-era adobe buildings surround this town center that’s served as both a Mexican military outpost and a Spanish Mission village.

EAT The French-influenced Girl & the Fig is the best known restaurant in the Sonoma Plaza, for good reason. The wait is usually shorter at El Dorado Kitchen,

Carpe Diem Wine Bar

The Adobe

15

WINE COUNTRY GUIDE

THE MANY WAYS TO SAVOR WINE COUNTRY

Right in San Francisco’s backyard, Northern California wine country is one of the world’s most prestigious growing regions, home to hundreds of wineries. Its idyllic landscape, award-winning wines, celebrity chefowned restaurants, outdoor activities and five-star hotels attract millions of visitors each year.

ARTESA Art and wine blend at this winery, seamlessly built into the highest hill of its 350-acre estate. From a Catalan family that has been hand-crafting wines since the 16th century, this Carneros location focuses on producing small, ultra-premium lots.

Take time to admire the modern and sophisticated gallery-like space and the original works of sculpture, painting and mixed-media. Tasting room open daily; tours daily. www.artesawinery. com. 1345 Henry Rd., Napa, 707.224.1668.

BALDACCI FAMILY VINEYARDS This family-owned-and-operated premium boutique winery is based in the historic Stags Leap District of Napa and focuses on single vineyard, single varietal limited releases. It’s especially known for its Cabernets. www.baldaccivineyards. com. 6236 Silverado Trail, 707.944.9261.

B CELLARS Named for the first letter of the word brix, a wine term defining the optimal sugar/alcohol content in grape juice that produces great wine, B Cellars is a new winery and tasting lounge in Oakville.

16 W H E R E W I N E CO U N T R Y I 2016

It uses a multi-vineyard winemaking strategy, blending grapes grown on nine Napa Valley vineyard sites to create wines with distinct character, depth and layers of flavor. The sophisticated tasting room features food tastings to complement the wines and a scenic setting. www.bcellars.com.

703 Oakville Cross Rd., Oakville, 877.229.9939.

BEAULIEU VINEYARD This 100-year-old winery is the longest continually operating winery in Napa Valley and the production site for the flagship Cabernet Sauvignon.

Founded on a four-acre ranch by French winemaker who envisioned a company producing fine wine unparalleled to his native France. Tastings daily. www.bvwines.com. 1960 St. Helena Hwy., Rutherford. 707.967.5200.

BERINGER VINEYARDS Napa Valley’s oldest continuously operating winery is also among its most accessible. Beringer is known for its Cabernet Sauvignons and bold, oaky Chardonnays. The large facility includes a gift shop that offers tableware, stemware and kitchen and home accessories. A variety of tours and seminars are available. Daily 10 am–5 pm. www.beringer.com. 2000 Main St., St. Helena, 707.302.7592.

BOISSET COLLECTION The Boisset company is the leading wine producer in Burgundy, with a Franco-American collection of wineries on two continents, a presence in 80 countries and collection of unique, independent wineries and historical estates. Among the company’s California wineries are Raymond Vineyards, DeLoach Vineyards, Amberhill Wines and Buena Vista Winery, just to name a few. www.boissetcollection.com. 849 Zinfandel Ln., 800.878.1123.

BUENA VISTA WINERY California’s first premium winery just completed its very first major renovation since its inception in 1857. Located just outside the town of Sonoma, this California Historic Landmark’s restoration included a renovation of the champagne cellars and caves as well as a new fountain, vineyard landscaping and stonemasonry detailing. Stop in for a tour, and taste world-class Cabernets, Pinot Noirs, Chardonnays and Zinfandels. Tasting room open seven days a week, year round. Reservations recommended. www.buenavistawinery.com.

18000 Old Winery Rd., Sonoma, 800.926.1266.

©JENNIFER WHALEN

WINERIES

WINE COUNTRY GUIDE CHARBAY WINERY & DISTILLERY

CHATEAU ST. JEAN

CLOS DU VAL

Named for its first drink—Chardonnay combined with brandy—Charbay now produces much more than just wine and brandy. Discover the artisan world of distilling many spirits like whiskey, vodka and rum from a family in the distillery business for 13 generations. Taste Charbay’s wines and ports, then enjoy a cigar in the rustic setting of Spring Mountain. Tastings open to the public. www.charbay.com. 4001 Spring Mountain Rd., St. Helena, 707.963.9327.

Founded in 1973, Chateau St. Jean is inspired by the formal estate gardens in the south of France. The winery specializes in white varietals, including Chardonnay, Fumé Blanc, Riesling and Gewürztraminer, and is the home of the iconic Cinq Cépages. Stroll the gardens or relax on the beautiful patio and take in the perfect vista as you sip their acclaimed reserve and single-vineyard wines. www.chateaustjean.com. 8555 Sonoma Hwy., Kenwood, 707.833.4134.

Located in a “valley within a valley,” the coolclimate region of Carneros in Napa Valley, Clos Du Val is known for its Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Its first vintage Cabernet was one of only six California cabs selected for the now-legendary 1976 Paris tasting.

Tastings open to the public; tours by appointment. www.closduval.com. 5330 Silverado Trail, Napa, 707.261.5200.

CHARLES KRUG

CLIFF LEDE VINEYARDS

Since its opening in 1861, Charles Krug winery has produced award-winning Cabernets and renowned Sauvignon Blanc. Tasting room open daily. www.charleskrug.com. 2800 Main St., St. Helena, 707.967.2200.

Known best for its Poetry Cabernet Sauvignon, this esteemed Stags Leap District winery pours its latest releases in an architecturally stunning craftsman-style tasting room. The appointment only Estate Tasting includes a guided tour of the property, leading through the vineyards to the state-of-the-art winery. www.cliffledevineyards.com. 1473 Yountville Cross Rd., Yountville, 707.944.8642.

CHATEAU MONTELENA WINERY The Napa winery whose Chardonnay earned California wines international recognition at the 1976 Tasting of Paris (portrayed in the movie “Bottle Shock”) is still producing great wines, like the Estate Cabernet, Estate Zinfandel and the limited production Potter Valley Riesling. Can’t get up to wine country? Stop by the tasting room in the Westin St. Francis hotel in Union Square, open five days a week (W-Su), no reservations needed. www.montelena.com. 1429 Tubbs Ln., Calistoga, 707.942.5105.

CLINE CELLARS This small-production winery produces Rhone varietals and Zinfandel from some of the oldest vines in California. Owner Fred Cline started with an inheritance from his grandfather, Valeriano Jacuzzi (of hot-tub fame). The 1850s farmhouse is surrounded by warm mineral springs and dozens of rose bushes. Tastings and tours open to the public daily. www.clinecellars.com. 24737 Arnold Dr., Sonoma 800.546.2070.

OBSESSIVELY AUTHENTIC ITALIAN LOCAL, ORGANIC & ITALIAN INGREDIENTS CERTIFIED PIZZA NAPOLETANA ORGANIC ITALIAN PASTRIES GARDEN TO GLASS COCKTAILS ORGANIC BREWERY LATE NIGHT FARE LIVE ENTERTAINMENT DINE IN

To go

OSTERIA

ENOTECA

1141 FIRST ST. Downtown Napa 11AM-10PM daily

at the Oxbow Public Market

late night Fri/Sat.

707.224.6664

WWW.CAMOMI.COM

18 W H E R E W I N E CO U N T R Y I 2016

610 FIRST ST. Downtown Napa 11AM-9PM daily 707.257.4992

CUVAISON WINERYCARNEROS TASTING ROOM The rolling hills of the Carneros Estate vineyards surround this tasting room. Seated tastings are offered by appointment, featuring Carneros and Estate Selection wines and stunning views of the originating vineyards. www.cuvaison.com. 1221 Duhig Rd., Napa, 707.942.2455.

DEERFIELD RANCH WINERY In the heart of Sonoma Valley, Deerfield is best known for its 23,000-square-foot wine caves where you can swirl and sip 100 feet below ground. Deerfield produces small-lot, handcrafted wine from more than 26 vineyards. www.deerfieldranch.com. 10200 Sonoma Hwy., Kenwood, 707.833.5215.

DOMAINE CARNEROS Champagne’s famed Tattinger family founded this winery in the 1970s. The tasting room resembles a French chateau, with a deck providing sweeping

WINE COUNTRY GUIDE views of the Carneros region. The famed Le Reve sparkling wine is compared to the top Cuvees from Champagne, while the Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs hold their own, too. www.domainecarneros.com. 1240 Duhig Rd., Napa, 707.257.0101.

EHLERS ESTATE Featuring a unique fusion of outstanding winegrowing, environmental consciousness and international philanthropy, this is a California winery through and through. Organic and biodynamic farming techniques are used to produce a small portfolio of estate-grown wines. www.ehlersestate.com. 3222 Ehlers Ln., St. Helena, 707.963.5972.

FRANCIS FORD COPPOLA WINERY Celebrate all the best things in life at this winery in the heart of picturesque Alexander Valley. Sip from more than 40 wines produced on site and eat authentic, Neapolitan-style pizzas and South American wood-grilled meats at the full-service restaurant Rustic and take a dip in the sparkling swimming pools (open seasonally). www.francisfordcoppolawinery.com. 300 Via Archimedes, Geyserville, 707.857.1471.

GLORIA FERRER CAVES & VINEYARDS

This winery transforms the very finest Carneros and Napa Valley grapes into world-class wines sought out by the most discriminating wine lovers. In addition to its widely acclaimed Carneros Pinot Noir and legendary Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, Etude has also developed a loyal following for Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and Merlot. www.etudewines.com. 1250 Cuttings Wharf Rd., Napa, 877.586.9361.

Settle on the scenic Vista Terrace, where you can sip a glass of sparkling wine that was aged in Spanish-style caves or an elegant Pinot Noir, paired with savory cheeses and other delicacies.

Gloria Ferrer produces some of California’s best sparkling wines, as well as estate varietal still Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from its 335-acre estate. The visitor center is open 10 am-5 pm daily, with wine service available until 4:45 pm. Guided winery tours offered daily at 11 am, 1 pm and 3 pm; $20 per person, includes two sparkling wine tastes and one estate varietal taste. www.gloriaferrer. com. 23555 Hwy. 121, Sonoma, 707.933.1917.

FAR NIENTE

GRGICH HILLS ESTATE

ETUDE WINES

The winery so committed to quality that it only produces one Chardonnay and one Cabernet Sauvignon each year opens its doors to the public. Tours of the winery and tastings available by appointment. www.farniente.com. 1350 Acacia Dr., Oakville, 707.944.2861.

Miljenko “Mike” Grgich, whose belongings were appropriated by the Smithsonian, gained international recognition in 1976 when judges at the Paris Tasting named his Chateau Montelena Chardonnay the best white wine in the world. In 1977, he partnered with Austin Hills (of the Hills

Bros. Coffee family). Their winery produces Cabernet Sauvignons, Zinfandels, Fume Blancs and, of course, Chardonnays. Tastings and tours open to the public. www.grgich.com. 1829 St. Helena Hwy., Rutherford, 707.963.2784.

GUNDLACH BUNDSCHU After more than 150 years, the sixth generation of this wine-growing family still produces quality estate-grown-and-bottled Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon, to name a few.

Check online for the seasonal cave tour, vineyard excursions and courtyard tasting availability. www.gunbun.com. 2000 Denmark St., Sonoma, 707.938.5277.

HALL WINES This winery plants twice as many vines per acre in comparison to traditional practices, resulting in smaller vines that produce richer and more concentrated wines. It boasts five estate vineyards planted with 500 acres of classic Bordeaux varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc. The monumental new LEED-certified visitor center features wine tasting, food and wine education, tours, gardens and an impressive contemporary art collection. www.hallwines.com. 401 St. Helena Hwy. S., St. Helena, 707.967.2626.

HAMEL FAMILY WINES Off Sonoma highway, the new Hamel Family Wines feels like a glamorous summer camp. Along with limited-production premium Bordeaux blends,

2016 I W H E R E W I N E CO U N T R Y 19

WINE COUNTRY GUIDE it offers elegant boxed picnics, campfire concerts and movies and art installations in its stunning wine caves. www.hamelfamilywines.com. 15401 Sonoma Hwy., 707.996.5800.

HESS COLLECTION A winding road near Mt. Veeder leads to this winery and art gallery. In the gallery, you’ll see works

by Francis Bacon and Robert Motherwell; the tasting room serves award-winning Chardonnays and Cabernet Sauvignons. www.hesscollection.com.

4411 Redwood Rd., Napa, 707.255.1144.

INGLENOOK CHATEAU Filmmaker Francis Ford Coppola’s team produces five estate wines, including the renowned Rubicon, on this 19th-century estate. The wines are made from 235 acres of certified organically grown grapes. The grounds include two tasting salons, a wine bar where guests can enjoy wines by the glass and a museum featuring antique zoetropes and artifacts from the estate’s founder, Gustave Niebaum. Reservations recommended for tastings and tours. www.inglenook.com. 1991 St. Helena Hwy., Rutherford, 707.968.1100.

JAMIESON RANCH VINEYARDS Home of “Double Lariat” Cabernet, Jamieson Ranch Vineyards occupies 300 acres of gently rolling hills and terraced vineyards and is the southernmost winery in the Napa Valley. In addition to Cabernets, it’s known for award-winning Pinots and Chardonnays as well as wine pairing

educational experiences. www.jamiesonranchvineyards.com. 1 Kirkland Ranch Rd., American Canyon, 707.254.8673.

KIEU HOANG WINERY Formerly owned by the Michael Mondavi Family, this 20-acre property in the coveted Carneros region was purchased by American businessman Kieu Hoang in 2014. The newly renovated winery makes Cabernet Sauvignons, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Red Blends and Rose in vibrant packaged shaped bottles. www.kieuhoangwinery.com. 1285 Dealy Lane, Napa, 707.253.1615.

KUNDE ESTATE WINERY & VINEYARDS Located in the Sonoma Valley, the family’s scenic 1,850-acre sustainably farmed estate has been managed by five generations since 1904. The winery specializes in Chardonnay, Cabernet, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot. www.kunde.com.

9825 Sonoma Hwy., Kenwood 707.833.5501.

MERRYVALE VINEYARDS The first winery built in Napa Valley following the repeal of Prohibition, Merryvale’s tasting room offers the opportunity to try unique, limited production wines and a variety of menus to suit any palate. A newly renovated winemaking cellar showcases the latest equipment to craft its boutique wines. Tastings open to the public; tours by appointment. www.merryvale.com. 1000 Main St., St. Helena, 707.963.7777.

This is Your Journey we are your guide visitCalistoga.com 20 W H E R E W I N E CO U N T R Y I 2016

MUMM NAPA The famed Champagne house’s California winery produces top-of-the-line cuvees, including its premium DVX label. The on-site art gallery showcases photography, including a collection of Ansel Adams prints and rotating exhibits. www. mummnapa.com. 8445 Silverado Trail, Rutherford, 707.967.7700.

ODETTE ESTATE Set on 45 acres of land under the dramatic palisades of the Stags Leap District, this stylish new winery is known for its high caliber Cabernets and contemporary design features like a living roof. www.odetteestate.com. 5998 Silverado Trail, 707.224.7533.

PATZ & HALL This acclaimed artisan winery has been handcrafting its small-lot and single-vineyard Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs for more than 25 years. Sip in the modern and stylish tasting salon, which offers casual bar tastings in a convivial setting, as well as private tastings by appointment. Open Th-M. www.patzhall.com. 21200 8th St. E., Sonoma, 707.265.7700.

PEJU WINERY Celebrating 30 years in the Napa Valley, this winery is a garden oasis along Highway 29 in the famed Rutherford appellation. Known for its legendary Cabernet Sauvignon, it produces many award-winning varietals, including Merlot,

Make Napa Valley Yours

WINE COUNTRY GUIDE Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Zinfandel, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Fifty/Fifty, a Bordeaux blend.

Guests can make an appointment for a private wine tasting 50 feet up in the French Provincial tasting room tower. Tastings open to the public. www.peju.com. 8466 St. Helena Hwy., Rutherford, 707.963.3600.

RAYMOND VINEYARDS

SEGHESIO FAMILY VINEYARDS Long-standing Italian family winery producing top-notch Zinfandel, Sangiovese, and Pinot Noir on 400 acres of the Alexander, Dry Creek, and Russian River valleys. www.seghesio.com. 700 Grove St., Healdsburg, 866.734.4374.

The excellent Petite Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon from Stags’ Leap Ranch is matched by the eclectic design of Friedensreich Hundertwasser.

Visits by appointment. www.quixotewinery.com.

6126 Silverado Trail, Napa, 707.944.2659.

In the heart of the Napa Valley, nestled between Rutherford and St. Helena, Raymond Vineyards is one of the early pioneering producers in the valley. A visit to the 90-acre estate is to return to Napa’s roots, surrounded by the beauty of two mountain ranges amidst vineyards planted to Napa’s classic varietals. A host of unique experiences await, from barrel tastings to food and wine pairings to the Theater of Nature—an excursion into the bounty of nature and an education on organic and Biodynamic farming. www.raymondvineyards.com. 849 Zinfandel Way, St. Helena, 707.963.3141.

RAM’S GATE WINERY

ROUND POND ESTATE WINERY

QUIXOTE WINERY

Just a 35-minute drive from San Francisco, this winery uncorks the best in wine, food, architecture and interior design. Its rustic yet elegant barn includes an open-air reception courtyard, a tasting pavilion, an open kitchen, a fireside lounge, a wine library, underground dining alcoves and floor-to-ceiling glass walls that open to sweeping vineyard and bay views. www.ramsgatewinery. com. 28700 Arnold Dr. Sonoma, 707.721.8700.

RAVENSWOOD WINERY Acclaimed for its Zinfandels and other big, bold red varietals, the winery’s motto—um Vinum Flaccidum (“No Wimpy Wines”)—characterizes its approach to winemaking. Picnic tables on-site. www.ravenswood-wine.com. 18701 Gehricke Rd., Sonoma 707.938.1960.

The winery joins a fabulous olive mill and features a stunning tasting room with dramatic views that complement the world-class Cabernet Sauvignons and Sauvignon Blancs. Tastings and tours by appointment. www.roundpond.com. 875 Rutherford Rd., Rutherford, 707.302.2575.

SCRIBE WINERY Owned by two young brothers, Scribe Winery is a photographer’s dream, with sun-dappled hills, colorful wildflowers and even a wooden swing. The stylish and friendly staff knows their stuff, and the wine, made with yeasts, is solid. www.scribewinery.com. 2300 Napa Rd., Sonoma, 707.939.1858.

SIGNORELLO ESTATE This epicurean-minded boutique winery known for award-winning wines from its hillside Cabernet Sauvignon vineyards also produces an estate Chardonnay called Hope’s Cuvee and offers one of the most critically acclaimed food pairings in Napa Valley. www.signorelloestate.com. 4500 Silverado Trail, Napa, 707.255.5990.

SIMI WINERY With vineyards in both the Alexander and Russian River valleys, Simi produces acclaimed Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Sauvignon Blanc at its charming winery. A picnic area is nestled in a scenic redwood grove. Tours daily at 11 am and 2 pm. www.simiwinery.com. 16275 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 800.746.4880.

ST. FRANCIS WINERY Three tasting options include wine-and-food pairings. Enjoy breathtaking views, small-lot wines, and gracious Wine Country hospitality. www. stfranciswinery.com. 100 Pythian Rd., Santa Rosa, 888.675.9463.

2016 I W H E R E W I N E CO U N T R Y 21

WINE COUNTRY GUIDE ST. SUPERY ESTATE VINEYARDS & WINERY

STARMONT WINERY & VINEYARDS

Family-owned and sustainably farmed, this winery offers an art gallery, scenic grounds, tours and hands-on interactive wine experiences (offered daily by appointment). Two types of tastings are available at the tasting bar daily from 10 am-5 pm. www.stsupery.com. 8440 St. Helena Hwy., Napa, 707.963.4507.

Established in 2006 by the Schlatter family as a sister property to the Bordeaux-focused Merryvale Vineyards, Starmont Winery, with its distinctive terroir, thoughtful farming and hands-on winemaking, results in serious yet approachable wines. www.starmontwinery.com. 1451 Stanly Ln., Napa, 707.252.8001.

STAG’S LEAP WINE CELLARS

STERLING VINEYARDS

Best known for its estate Cabernet Sauvignons, this family-owned winery gained international recognition in 1976, when its SLV Cabernet Sauvignon was judged the best red wine in the world at the famed Paris Tasting. The winery takes its name from its location in the famed Stags Leap viticultural district. www.cask23.com. 5766 Silverado Trail, Napa, 866.422.7523.

Take in exceptional panoramic views of Napa Valley on a tram ride to this winery’s visitors center, perched atop a 300-foot-tall hillside overlooking the valley. The winery specializes in Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and more.

Tastings and self-guided tours open to the public; guided tours at 11 am. www.sterlingvineyards. com. 1111 Dunaweal Ln., Calistoga, 800.726.6136.

STAGS’ LEAP WINERY

STONY HILL VINEYARD

Not to be confused with Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars (the name and placement of the apostrophe were the subject of a legal battle between Stags’ Leap and its neighbor, Stag’s Leap), the winery produces Rhone varietals along with its Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Merlot in the growing district from which the winery takes its name.

Tastings and tours Tu–Sa by appointment only. www.stagsleap.com. 6150 Silverado Trail, Napa, 800.395.2441.

Founded in the 1940s when white wine was a rarity in Napa Valley, this small, family-run winery high on the northeast slope of Spring Mountain continues to produce elegant and balanced Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer, Reisling and most recently, Cabernet. Tours and tastings by appointment. www.stonyhillvineyard.com. 3331 St. Helena Hwy. N, 707.963.2636.

VIANSA WINERY One of the first wineries you’ll encounter on Hwy. 121 as you enter Sonoma County from the south, Viansa offers an endless variety of oils,

dressings, and dips, in addition to its wines, at its marketplace. www.viansa.com. 25200 Arnold Dr., Sonoma, 800.995.4740.

WENTE VINEYARDS The country’s oldest continuously operating family-owned winery offers wine tasting, vineyard and garden tours, educational workshops, an upscale restaurant and a scenic 18-hole championship golf course. Visit the Vineyard Tasting Room to learn about the rich history of California winemaking, book a class at the Winemakers Studio to blend your own bottle or make an appointment for a private group tasting in the historic wine caves. The winery’s summer concert series features musical performances on the beautiful outdoor lawn. www.wentevineyards.com. 5050 Arroyo Rd., Livermore, 925.456.2400.

DINING AD HOC Opened by one of the most celebrated chefs in the country, Napa’s own Thomas Keller, Ad Hoc was first opened as a temporary experiment.

However, diners were so excited about the fourcourse, family style menu, changing daily and inspired by the comfort food of Keller’s childhood, that the restaurant soon became the beloved (and permanent) destination that it is today. D (Th-M), brunch (Su). www.adhocrestaurant.com. 6476 Washington St., Yountville, 707.944.2487. $$$

Open Daily 11am-5pm www.kieuhoangwinery.com | 707-253-1615 1285 Dealy Ln, Napa CA, 94559

22 W H E R E W I N E CO U N T R Y I 2016

WINE COUNTRY GUIDE BARNDIVA The perfect combination of barnyard and beauty, BARNDIVA serves delicious, locally sourced food and drink in an exquisite modern barn setting.

With an impressive wine and cocktail list, the colorful barn- turned-restaurant attracts a lively crowd at night, a contrast with its picturesque daytime tranquility. L, D (W-Su), brunch (Su). www.barndiva.com. 231 Center St., Healdsburg, 707.431.0100. $$$

BISTRO DON GIOVANNI This culinary institution near the southern end of the valley’s winery corridor offers the charm of a Mediterranean country bistro, with a shaded porch and such fare as house-made pasta entrees and delectable pizzas. L,D (daily). www.bistrodongiovanni.com. 4110 Howard Ln., Napa, 707.224.3300. $$

BISTRO JEANTY In everyday French life, it’s said that a bistro is more than a restaurant—it’s a culture. In this cozy yet elegant space, dig into classic and hearty fare like cassoulet and coq au vin. L, D (daily). www. bistrojeanty.com. 6510 Washington St., Yountville, 707.944.0103. $$$

BOTTEGA Literally meaning artist’s workshop, this romantic Yountville spot features a bounty of homemade cheeses, salumi, pastas and cured olives. Don’t miss dishes like the warm percorino cheese pudding with wood-roasted rapini, or the house-

made veal tortellini in brodo de carne. L (T-Su), D (daily). www.botteganapavalley.com. 6525 Washington St., Yountville, 707.945.1050. $$$

BOUCHON

regional produce and meats with contemporary flair. The space itself is airy and fresh-feeling; an extensive wine list offers more than 350 selections. L (F–Su), D (nightly). www.charliepalmer.com. 317 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg 707.431.0330. $$$

More relaxed than the French Laundry but stemming from the same culinary tradition, Bouchon is the place to find quality French meals. Bouchon takes its name from what are traditionally cozy French eateries, places where family style meals are served in small dining rooms, where patrons are greeted by the wife and eat dishes prepared by the husband. L, D (daily). www.bouchonbistro.com. 6534 Washington St., Yountville, 707.944.8037. $$$

Enjoy the bright, open-feeling interior of this restaurant on the Sonoma Plaza, or slip outside to dine under a fig tree. Entrées such as Pacific salmon with white-bean cassoulet showcase the California cuisine appeal. B, L, D (daily). www. eldoradosonoma.com. 405 1st St. W., Sonoma, 707.996.3220. $$$

CA’ MOMI OSTERIA

THE FRENCH LAUNDRY

This restaurant in downtown Napa features a full bar of Ca’ Momi wines, house-made spirits and beer, and the celebrated Verace Pizza Napoletana (VPN). Ca’ Momi is one of only nine restaurants in California certfied by the VPN association, which assures pizza is crafted in strict adherence to the traditional Neapolitan recipes and methods.

The menu also offers traditional Italian dishes like semolina flour gnocchi with butter, sage and parmesan, or rigatoni with squash, pancetta and montasio cheese. www.camomi.com. 1141 1st St., 707.257.4992.

Chef Thomas Keller’s staff serves contemporary French cuisine. Order one of two nine-course chef’s tasting menus, including a vegetarian option. Reservations are taken up to two months in advance, but visitors can check for availability on the day they wish to dine. L (F–Su), D (nightly). www.frenchlaundry.com. 6640 Washington St., Yountville, 707.944.2380. $$$$

DRY CREEK KITCHEN The first California venture for renowned restaurateur Charlie Palmer showcases artisanal cheeses,

EL DORADO KITCHEN

THE GRILL AT WENTE VINEYARDS This is a great spot for golfers and non-golfers alike to relax and enjoy views of the 18th green and surrounding vineyards. Expect casual American fare as well as a full bar with indoor and outdoor patio seating. www.wentevineyards.com.

5040 Arroyo Rd., 925.456.2481.

2016 I W H E R E W I N E CO U N T R Y 23

Peaceful Invigoration   

180 spacious guestrooms, including 160 king suites Relax in the heated saltwater pool and hot tub or try your hand at the private bocce ball courts Enjoy our Michelin Star Restaurant, La Toque and sip wine at BANK Café & Bar

www.westinnapa.com

707-257-1800

WINE COUNTRY GUIDE JOHN ASH & CO.

MORIMOTO

PIZZANDO

This restaurant was among the first to champion the area’s natural resources, and today it continues that mission by using local produce, fish, and beef, as well as regional cheeses and breads. The menu borrows from French, Spanish, and Asian traditions. Serves L (M-F), D (daily), B (Su). www. vintnersinn.com. 4330 Barnes Rd., Santa Rosa 707.527.7687. $$$

Food Network’s Iron Chef America’s star Masaharu Morimoto’s first West Coast restaurant showcases the renowned chef’s distinct culinary style, which seamlessly integrates Asian and Western ingredients with traditional Japanese techniques. Don’t miss the uni carbonara or the foie gras chawan mushi. L (W-Su), D (nightly). www.morimotonapa. com. 610 Main St., Napa, 707.252.1600. $$$$

LUCY RESTAURANT & BAR

MUSTARDS GRILL

Located in the swanky Bardessono hotel and spa in Napa’s Yountville, Lucy is named after the property’s lush on-site garden, which drives most of the menu at this comfortable wine country resort restaurant. Guests can sit outside and soak in the sun, as well as the views, while dining on impeccably fresh, seasonal offerings from the menu’s three sections: Garden, Ocean and Range. www.bardessono.com. 6528 Yount St., Yountville, 707.204.6030. $$$$

There’s no cooking method quite as American as the grill, and that’s what this Napa eatery is all about. Named after the wild mustard flowers that help nourish vineyard soils every spring, Mustards serves up fish, chops, ribs and steaks with international flavors hot off the grill. The eclectic wine list features rare vintages from around the world, too. L, D (daily). www.mustardsgrill.com. 7399 St. Helena Hwy., Napa, 707.944.2424. $$

The more casual sister restaurant to Dry Creek Kitchen inside the Hotel Healdsburg recently opened and is already making an impression.

The not-strictly-Italian menu features blistered wood-oven pizzas, rustic vegetable sides and mouthwatering meat dishes like fried chicken legs with jalapeno vinegar. Cocktails focus on classic Italian aperitifs, like the house-bottled Negronis, and after-dinner drinks. L, D (daily) www. pizzandohealdsburg.com. 301 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707.922.5233. $$

MODEL BAKERY For more than 90 years, this historic bakery has remained true to producing fresh and organic artisan treats daily, ranging from signature breads, like Pain Levain, to delicious morning cinnamon buns. Stop here to stock up for the perfect picnic. www.themodelbakery.com. 644 1st St., Bldg.

B, Napa, 707.259.1128; 1357 Main St., St. Helena, 707.963.8192.

OENOTRI This unique restaurant in revitalized downtown Napa combines the farm-to-table approach to food with the rarely seen cuisine of Italian regions like Sicily, Campania and Calabria. Salumi is crafted in-house, pasta is made fresh daily and a wood-burning oven imported from Naples turns out authentic, artisanal pizzas. The wine list highlights Southern Italian regions and cocktails– like the rest of the menu–are inspired by local seasonal produce. L (M-F), D (nightly). www.oenotri. com. 1425 1st St., Napa, 707.252.1022. $$$

REDD WOOD Acclaimed chef Richard Reddington introduces his latest venture, Redd Wood. The industrial and funky yet cozy space boasts an open kitchen with a daily-changing menu. Pair interesting local wines with wood-burning oven-baked pizzas, house-made pastas and seasonally-inspired side and main dishes, featuring meats like oxtail and steak from their charcuterie room. Enjoy a meal in their casual dining section, private room or bistro-style on their outdoor patio. www. redd-wood.com. 6755 Washington St., Yountville, 707.299.5030. $$

THE RESTAURANT AT WENTE VINEYARDS Located at the famous Wente Vineyards, this restaurant features California wine country cuisine.

Enjoy seasonal dishes made from ingredients sourced from the vineyard’s magnificent herb and vegetable garden, along with numerous wine

2016 I W H E R E W I N E CO U N T R Y 25

WINE COUNTRY GUIDE pairings for each dish. L (M-Sa), D (nightly), brunch (Su). www.wentevineyards.com. 5050 Arroyo Rd., Livermore, 925.456.2450.

SPOONBAR Named for “Spoonfall,” a dramatic and whimsical outdoor water sculpture of 3,500 espresso spoons positioned to the north of the establishment, this restaurant is located in the LEED Gold certified H2hotel. Expect excellent modern food and cocktails from an experienced culinary team. www.spoonbar.com.

219 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707.431.2202.

THE GIRL & THE FIG Country French cuisine showcasing fresh regional ingredients and a nice selection of artisanal cheeses and the “Rhone Alone” wine list make this a singularly pleasurable dining experience at Sonoma Plaza. French aperitifs and traditional cocktails are served at an antique bar. L, D (daily), brunch (Su). www.thegirlandthefig.com. 110 W. Spain St., Sonoma 707.938.3634. $$$

THE RESTAURANT AT MEADOWOOD With a menu designed to showcase Napa Valley wines through Napa Valley foods, The Restaurant at Meadowood is the place to go for the full taste of the wine country. Diners have their choice of 950 wines, as well as the expertise of The Restaurant’s sommelier to heighten every flavor on the plates and in the glasses. D (daily). www.meadowood.com. 900 Meadowood Ln., St. Helena, 707.963.3646. $$$$

26 W H E R E W I N E CO U N T R Y I 2016

WILLI’S SEAFOOD & RAW BAR This is a smaller portion restaurant, but there is nothing small about the tastes offered here. Willi’s seafood dishes receive rave reviews, especially the steamed clams. L, D (daily). www.willisseafood.net.

403 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707.433.9191. $$$

pizza, burgers and tacos plus oysters and rotisserie chicken and then grab a seat on the patio overlooking the Napa River. www.oxbowpublicmarket.com. 644 1st St., Napa, 707.226.6529.

SHED

A sleek stretch of renovated warehouses (once part of an apple processing plant) in downtown Sepastopol is home to some of the best local food producers, winemakers, brewers and artisans. This unique space is the first business community in the country to connect customers not only with products and the people who make them, but also with the production itself. www.thebarlow. net. 6770 Mckinley Ave., Suite 120, 707.824.5600.

Wine, dine and shop at this glass-walled, 10,000-square-foot locavore’s paradise in Healdsburg. You’ll find a store selling high-end kitchen and gardening equipment, local foodstuffs (including grains milled onsite) and books; a cafe with daily changing menus inspired by neighboring produce and farms; and a coffee bar with its own espresso, house-made pastries and ice creams. Shed also has the only fermentation bar in the area, where local wines, beers, kombuchas, natural sodas and hard ciders are all available on tap. www.healdsburgshed.com. 25 North St., Healdsburg, 707.431.7433.

DEAN & DELUCA

V MARKETPLACE

SHOPPING THE BARLOW

The gourmet supplier’s store has separate deli, meat, and bakery counters, as well as an on-site wine shop to ensure one-stop picnic packing. www.deandeluca.com. 607 St. Helena Hwy. S., St. Helena, 707.967.9980.

OXBOW PUBLIC MARKET Visit this gourmet mall for the freshest local ingredients for an afternoon picnic before wine tasting.

Or stick around and order from the selection of independent eateries offering elevated takes on

This wine country destination is home to several boutiques, art galleries, restaurants (including Michael Chiarello’s Bottega) and gift shops where you can find gourmet foods, jewelry, clothing and accessories for the home and garden. www.vmarketplace.com. 6525 Washington St., Yountville, 707.944.2451.

A beautiful, seven-room Victorian Inn located in downtown Healdsburg. Gourmet breakfasts and modern amenities make for a spectacular stay.

calderwoodinn.com | 707.395.0929

25 W. Grant St. Healdsburg, CA

WINE COUNTRY GUIDE TOURS & ATTRACTIONS BIN 415 With over 900 wineries between Napa and Sonoma, deciding where to go can be overwhelming. Bin 45 offers unique excursions hosted by a certified sommelier to wineries offering the perfect combination of amazing wines, warm hospitality and beautiful scenery. Bin 415 also offers tours throughout San Francisco, Sausalito, Muir Woods and the Pacific Coast Highway. www.bin415.com. 1616 Grove St., San Francisco, 415.571.9020. Map 2, G4

CORNERSTONE GARDENS Cornerstone Sonoma is an eclectic collection of shops, wineries and a gourmet cafe set amidst nine acres of garden installations created by the world’s leading landscape architects. www.cornerstonesonoma.com. 23570 Arnold Dr., Sonoma 707.933.3010.

CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA AT GREYSTONE The historic Napa Valley institute offers twohour, hands-on cooking and wine classes where you can create internationally inspired dishes or discuss and taste wine in state-of-the-art wine tasting facilities to gain confidence for your next trip to a tasting room, restaurant or wine shop. Stop by to catch a cooking demo, visit the Vintners Hall of Fame, dine at the Wine Spectator Restaurant or just take a stroll around campus.

28 W H E R E W I N E CO U N T R Y I 2016

www.ciachef.edu/california. 2555 Main St., St. Helena, 707.967.1100.

am-5 pm, except Tu. www.napavalleymuseum.org.

55 Presidents Cir., Yountville, 707.944.0500.

MAISONRY

NAPA VALLEY VINTNERS

Housed in a beautifully maintained 1904 stone manor, this winery collective and art gallery feels like a luxurious home with rotating seasonal art collections that feature internationally acclaimed names as well as Napa Valley and Bay Area artists.

The tasting room pours bottles from limitedproduction boutique wineries such as Blackbird Vineyards, Brown Estate, Renteria Wines and more, which can be enjoyed with a bite in the landscaped gardens dotted with contemporary sculpture. www.maisonry.com. 6711 Washington St., Yountville, 707.944.0889.

Plan your next Napa Valley visit with the Winery Map & Trip Planner. Locate wineries, create your itinerary, get directions and send to your phone using the interactive, searchable map. The Winery Finder helps you search more than 500 wineries with special attributes like dog-friendly, art displays, sustainable and unique architecture. Find wine and food pairings, live music, winemaker dinners, blending seminars, wine education activities and more with the Winery Events Calendar. www.napavintners.com.

NAPA VALLEY BIKE TOURS There’s nothing like pedaling through Napa’s wine country on a bike. With Napa Valley Bike Tours, choose one of three options: a fully guided tour led by a knowledgeable guide, a self-guided trip with box lunches delivered to a winery along your way, or rent bikes and head out on your own adventure. www.napavalleybiketours.com. 6500 Washington St., Yountville, 707.944.2953.

NAPA VALLEY MUSEUM The Napa Valley Museum, located just 15 minutes north of Napa, features changing art exhibits and a permanent history display. There are picnic tables on-site and the site is on beautiful grounds adjacent to the Veterans Home of California. Open daily 10

NAPA VALLEY WINE TRAIN Passengers sip select Napa Valley wines and indulge in gourmet cuisine as they ride past vineyards on these three-hour lunch and dinner tours aboard restored Pullman coaches. Reservations recommended. www.winetrain.com. 1275 McKinstry St., Napa, 800.427.4124.

UPTOWN THEATRE This historic and recently renovated Art Deco entertainment palace opened in 1937 and was host to Hollywood legends such as Clarke Gable and Carole Lombard. Today, its 860 comfy theater seats afford patrons a truly unique experience whether they are laughing at Lewis Black or jammin’ out to BB King. www.uptowntheatrenapa. com. 1350 3rd St., Napa, 707.259.0123.

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2016 I W H E R E W I N E CO U N T R Y 31

MY WINE COUNTRY

Jean-Charles Boisset s

t o

o ss t

st t s

A dominant figure in the wine world, the innovative entrepreneur Jean-Charles Boisset grew up in a winemaking family in Burgundy. Today he leads the family wine empire, with wineries in his native France and here in California, including DeLoach Vineyards in Sonoma’s Russian River Valley, Raymond Vineyards in Napa Valley (named Winery of the Year by Wine Enthusiast magazine in 2012) and Buena Vista Winery in Sonoma, as well as four JCB Tasting Lounges across wine country and San Francisco.

What are your favorite wine country restaurants?

I adore the food and atmosphere at Morimoto in Napa and their excellent wine and cocktail program from Eduardo Dingler. I spend as much time in Sonoma as anywhere else in the world.

I love the Dry Creek General Store in Healdsburg and love to stop in Sonoma’s Best for lunch. I also love the Girl & Fig, Oso, LaSalette, Della Santina's & Burgers and Vine—all in the heart of Sonoma Square.

How does our wine country differ from Burgundy?

Growing up in France, I always had a fascination with the United States. When I 32 W H E R E W I N E CO U N T R Y I 2016

had the chance to come to California, I fell in love with the American sense of optimism, enthusiasm and entrepreneurial spirit. I also love the sense of wonder, curiosity and playfulness in the education philosophy of America. In France, the education system is much more formal, more rigid. I’ve been inspired to create experiences at our wineries where guests can learn about wine in a fun, creative, imaginative atmosphere.

How is it working in the California wine industry?

We are at a unique moment of the birth of fine wine culture in America! There is a feeling that, led by the fabu-

Where would you send visiting history buffs? I love to visit the historical landmarks of Sonoma Square—the Bear Flag sculpture, the barracks and the museum—every element reminds me of the traditional European and French squares that I grew up with as well as my first visit to Sonoma. There is an overwhelming sense of the birthplace of California here.

I have to mention Buena Vista Winery, California’s first premium winery. It was the first winery I ever visited in America when I was 11 years old, in 1981. I like to call it the “White House of Wine.”

Do you have a favorite vista point in the region?

The vista from atop Wappo Hill. The highest point on the valley floor, it is a spiritual place in Napa first used by the Wappo Indians to take note of all the activity of the valley–from the San Pablo Bay to Mt. St. Helena.

Where can visitors find glamour in wine country?

I’d consider the Red Room at Raymond Vineyards the most sexy room in all of Napa Valley. It was created to be a tasting experience that integrates all the senses of red wines; from the rich red velvet fabric, to leopard carpets, to Baccarat crystal chandeliers.

MY PERFECT DAY Morning I would awake with a kickboxing session with my friend Matt Weber at Sidekicks in Napa to get the blood flowing and inspire a day of action.

Then I’d go to Kelly’s Filling Station in Yountville for the best lattes in wine country in the most unique gas station in all of California.

Afternoon One of the most charming ways to see the wine country is by train.

I adore the Napa Valley Wine Train for bringing that sense of Old World charm to traveling through the vineyards. The views are extraordinary!

Napa Valley Wine Train

Evening The best way to begin any evening is with bubbles at the newly opened JCB Tasting Salon in Yountville.

Decadent and dazzling, it’s the most sumptuous tasting room yet in the Napa Valley.

Night I’d spend the evening at the Napa Valley Performing Arts Center at the Lincoln Theater in Yountville.

It brings fantastic art, performance and culture into the heart of wine country, uniting the vital energy and artistry of performance and winemaking.

Discover more at

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FROM TOP: COURTESY BOISSET FAMILY ESTATES; NAPA VALLEY WINE TRAIN

lous wine culture of the West Coast, a greater appreciation for food, wine, farming and the source is blossoming. It's exciting to see the passion of the vintners, growers, sommeliers and consumers who are bringing it to realization. California vintners have never made such great wine as now, and people are drinking more wine than ever before.

What to sip and savor in wine country

Stunning Views. Brilliant Wines.

Experience Sterling.

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S T E R L I N G V I N E YA R D S V I S I T O R C E N T E R Open Daily Weekdays: 10:30am – 4:30pm Weekends: 10:00am – 4:30pm 1111 Dunaweal Lane, Calistoga, CA 94515 ■ 1.800.726.6136 ■ www.sterlingvineyards.com Please enjoy our wines responsibly. © 2016 Sterling Vineyards, Calistoga, CA *Offer valid before 12:00pm PST only. Offer valid for 2 guests with purchase of 2 General Admission tickets for guests age 21 & over.

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This is the moment just after we took our last bite. After they served those delicate little puffed pastries with vanilla cream. After the waiter introduced us to the best late harvest Sauvignon Blanc we had ever tasted.

After we stumbled into a restaurant we had no idea even existed.

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