Wailea Magazine Fall-Winter 2012-2013

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MAGAZINE FA L L •

WINTER 2012-2013 / ISSUE 3

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MAGAZINE

SA F PR L LI N•G W• I N SU TE MRM 2E0R1 2 0 - 21021 /3 I/S SI SUSEU 2E 3

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the jewel of south maui With its sun-drenched beaches, luxurious resorts and world-class golf, Wailea is the jewel of South Maui. In the pages of Wailea magazine, we introduce you to the many pleasures offered by this island paradise.

ŠRon Dahlquist/Corbis

Welcome to

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CONTENTS

FALL

•

WINTER 2012-2013 / ISSUE 3

26 F E AT UR E S

16 Wine and Dine

34 All Over the Map

50 In the Swing

A WINE AND FOOD FESTIVAL CELEBRATES THE CRUSH.

THE ART OF THE ARCHIPELAGO.

MEET BRENDA REGO, HAWAI’IS ONLY FEMALE HEAD GOLF PROFESSIONAL.

BY JOCELYN FUJII PHOTOGRAPHY BY DANA EDMUNDS

26 The Skies of Wailea THE SONG AND CHANT OF THE CLOUDS.

BY JOCELYN FUJII PHOTOGRAPHY BY PETER LIU

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BY JOCELYN FUJII

42 Paradise Found HOW TO BE A GOOD GUEST IN TURTLE TOWN.

BY SHANNON WIANECKI

BY GRADY TIMMONS PHOTOGRAPHY BY DANA EDMUNDS

58 The Sweet Story of Kö RAISING CANE ON MAUI.

BY PAUL WOOD PHOTOGRAPHY BY DANA EDMUNDS

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CONTENTS

F E AT UR E S continued

78 Color, Light & the Art of Living HOW ART AND PLACE INTERSECT.

BY JOCELYN FUJII PHOTOGRAPHY BY NINA KUNA

96 Aloha Moment PHOTOGRAPHY BY PETER LIU

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D E PA RT M E N T S 1 Welcome to Wailea 6 A Message from Wailea Resort 8 Contributors 12 Lei of the Land GETTING AROUND WAILEA.

14 Wailea’s Footprint GETTING YOUR BEARINGS AT THE SHORE.

22 Wailea Hall of Fame THE BOLD-FACED NAMES AT WAILEA.

70 Wailea Dining Guide FARE TO REMEMBER, AND WHY.

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74 Resorts, Amenities and More WHY PEOPLE LIVE HERE.

76 Life, Wailea Style HIGHLIGHTS OF RESORT LIVING.

88 Inspiration ART FOR ALL SEASONS.

90 Shops & Galleries A GUIDE TO RETAIL AND THE ARTS.

94 The Pleasures of Shopping and Dining GREAT FINDS AT THE SHOPS OF WAILEA. ON THE COVER

Photographer Nina Kuna captures the lava-like quality of Sandra Clark’s glass sculpture.

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ALOHA

MAGAZINE

Wow, the seasons do fly by quickly. But I guess with

all the great activities available in the resort, including the Maui Film Festival at Wailea, the Niu Festival and our biannual Restaurant Week, we’re always having too much fun to notice. Like summer and fall, the holidays and spring will come and go before we know it—but we can always count on the year-round rhythm of Wailea activities to keep our senses on high alert. No sooner do we say good-bye to summer when we are looking toward the ocean for a glimpse of our annual winter visitors—the humpback whales, our friends, the koholä.

Our anticipation is reaching a crescendo for the inaugural Wailea Wine & Food Festival, to be held throughout the resort December 6 to 9. We will be pairing the artistry of the best winemakers with the culinary talents of Wailea’s gifted chefs. I can already imagine sipping fine wine and savoring extraordinary cuisine oceanside here in Wailea.

All the wonderful images you envisioned about Hawai’i are right here for your enjoyment. From the glorious sunrise over Haleakalä to the storybook sunset, each day in Wailea is a dream come true. Consider this magazine a portal into the countless special qualities of Wailea Resort—a journey from the cultural past to the people and places that tell Wailea’s story today.

Hawaiians are noted for their innate hospitality, keen sense of place, and mastery of the art of celebration. From ‘ukulele and hula to surfing and paddling, the traditions of the past are alive and thriving today. We hope you will find that your time in Wailea is full of joy and remembrance— and that your new memories will bring you back soon.

For more information about Wailea Resort, please visit www.wailearesortassociation.com.

Mahalo nui loa for sharing your time with us here in Wailea.

Kipa hou mai!

(Come visit again!)

Frank “Bud” Pikrone General Manager Wailea Resort Association

where | HAWAII ADVERTISING & CIRCULATION REGIONAL VICE PRESIDENT/PUBLISHER Patti GROUP PUBLISHER Suzanne ACCOUNT MANAGERS Liz

Ruesch

McClellan

Cotton, Bob Kowal

INDEPENDENT SALES CONTRACTORS

Debbie De Mello, Wanda Garcia-Fetherston CIRCULATION & MARKETING MANAGER Sidney

Louie

BUSINESS ADMINISTRATOR Miao

Woo

EDITORIAL EDITOR Jocelyn

Fujii

ART DIRECTOR Teri

Samuels

REGIONAL EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Rosie COPY EDITOR Lucy

Leonetti

Kim

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Sarah Ruppenthal,

Grady Timmons, Shannon Wianecki, Paul Wood PRODUCTION PRODUCTION MANAGER Brittany

L. Kevan

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP | Executive PRESIDENT Donna CONTROLLER Angela

Kessler

E. Allen

MVP | Creative CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER Haines DESIGN DIRECTOR Jane

Wilkerson

Frey

CREATIVE COORDINATOR Beverly

Mandelblatt

MVP | National Sales VICE PRESIDENT, NATIONAL SALES Rick

Mollineaux

202.463.4550

MVP | Manufacturing &Technology DIRECTOR OF MANUFACTURING Donald

Horton

TECHNICAL OPERATIONS MANAGER Tony

Thorne-Booth

MVP | Production DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION Kris PRODUCT MANAGER Jasond

Miller

Fernandez

PHOTO SCANNING/RETOUCH Jerry

Hartman

MVP | Cartography & Circulation GENERAL MANAGER, WHERE MAPS Christopher CIRCULATION COORDINATOR Noreen

Huber

Altieri

E-mails for all of the above : Firstname.lastname@morris.com

where | HAWAII OFFICES 1833 Kalakaua Ave., Suite 810, Honolulu, HI 96815 ph 808.955.2378 fax 808.955.2379

MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS CHAIRMAN & CEO William PRESIDENT William

S. Morris III

S. Morris IV

Copyright© 2012 by Morris Visitor Publications. All rights reserved. This publication may not be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, in whole or in part, without the express prior written permission of the publisher. The publisher assumes no responsibility to any party for the content of any advertisement in this publication, including any errors and omissions therein. By placing an order for an advertisement, the advertiser agrees to indemnify the publisher against any claims relating to the advertisement. Printed in U.S.A. Wailea magazine is produced in cooperation with the Wailea Resort Association.

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CONTRIBUTORS

Dana Edmunds Grady Timmons In the Swing, p. 50 Grady Timmons has been writing about golf in Hawai‘i for more than 25 years and has played the game even longer. His writings on golf and other subjects have appeared in numerous local, national and international publications. He is the author of the awardwinning book Waikiki Beachboy and A Century of Golf: O‘ahu Country Club, published in 2007.

Paul Wood

Nina Kuna

The Sweet Story of Kö, p. 58 Independent writer Paul Wood lives on Haleakalä, where he has the consummate view of Central Maui’s sugar lands. His work has received numerous awards, including Hawai‘i’s most prestigious, the 2006 Elliot Cades Award for Literature from the Hawai‘i Literary Arts Council. He is currently producing a new edition of Four Wheels Five Corners, his 1996 book about the peculiarities of life in Upcountry Maui.

Paul also directs Writing Without Pencils, an ongoing project aimed at reforming the way we introduce young children to the art of writing. By invitation, he will be presenting this program in January 2013 at the John F. Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts in Washington, D. C.

Color, Light & the Art of Living, p. 78 Originally from the left coast, Nina studied and worked the bicoastal circuit in New York and San Francisco before landing in her permanent home of Maui. Shooting regularly for island publications such as Honolulu Magazine, Maui No Ka Oi Magazine and Modern Luxury Magazine, Kuna’s creative passion extends to a unique collection of exclusive jewelry under the same name.

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Wine & Dine, p. 16; In the Swing, p. 50; The Sweet Story of Kö, p. 58 Dana began his career on Maui as a surf photographer. After graduating from Art Center in Los Angeles, he returned to the Islands and opened a photo studio in Honolulu. As a Hawai‘i-based commercial photographer, Dana shoots for various editorial, advertising and action sports clients here in Hawai‘i and throughout the world.

Shannon Wianecki

Peter Liu The Skies of Wailea, p. 26; Aloha Moment, p. 96 Peter Liu is a professional photographer, social media consultant and scuba diver currently based on Maui. A former Silicon Valley geek, Peter left a 25-year career in the computer industry in 2004 and found a new calling with his camera shortly after.

See more of Peter’s work at peterliuphoto.com.

Sarah Ruppenthal Wailea Hall of Fame, p. 22 Sarah Ruppenthal is an award-winning journalist, freelance writer and instructor at University of Hawai‘i Maui College.

Her stories have appeared in Maui Na Ka Oi, Maui Weekly, FLUX Hawaii, Green Magazine Hawaii, and other local publications. She lives on Maui’s North Shore with her husband, Matthew, and 135-pound “puppy,” Odie.

peter liu photo by Aubrey Hord

Paradise Found, p. 42 Shannon Wianecki was raised on Maui, where she fell in love with diving at 12 years old. Her favorite dive sites are in South Maui, not far from the subject of her story. She’s a writer and conservationist dedicated to preserving native Hawaiian ecosystems. Her work appears in local and national magazines, travel guides, and books about the Islands.

NAVIGATE

Lei of the Land Getting around the Wailea Area ´

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Wailea is nestled on the leeward side of South Maui. Only 30 minutes from the Kahului Airport, just south of the town of KĪhei, Wailea is easily accessible by automobile. The main entrances to Wailea’s luxurious beachfront resorts are located along lovely Wailea Alanui. The Shops at Wailea, located just north of Grand Wailea, features upscale apparel, jewelry, fine art, cuisine and more. Nearby are Wailea’s world-class golf and tennis facilities—the Wailea Golf Club, featuring the Old Blue and Gold and Emerald golf courses, and the Wailea Tennis Club. All of Wailea’s resorts, along with golf, tennis, dining and shopping, are within a few minutes’ drive of your resort or condominium. The 1.5-mile coastal walk, which runs between the resorts and the beach, provides a magnificent view of the South Maui coastline and affords easy access to the beachfront resorts.

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WAILEA RESORT MAP KEY

Resort Hotels

DESTINATION 1 The Fairmont Kea Lani, Maui 2 Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea 3 Grand Wailea 4 Ho`olei 5 Wailea Beach Marriott Resort & Spa 6 Hotel Wailea 7 Wailea Beach Villas 8 Wailea Elua 9 Palms at Wailea

Condominiums

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

Wailea Ekolu Wailea Grand Champions Villas Wailea Ekahi The Shops at Wailea Wailea Town Center Wailea Gateway Center Wailea Tennis Club Wailea Old Blue Clubhouse Wailea Gold & Emerald Clubhouse 19 Andaz Maui at Wailea

Shopping Tennis Golf Courses Beaches Snorkeling Points of Interest Coastal Walk

(MAP) ©EUREKA CARTOGRAPHY, BERKELEY, CA (WATERCOLOR & BORDER PATTERN) ©MIKE REAGAN

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NAVIGATE

Wailea’s Footprint There are many ways of experiencing the spirit of a place, and in Wailea, it’s the Wailea Coastal Walk. This is where you’ll feel the sun, hear the sounds of laughter from the beach, and know that all is well with the world. With the crescent of Molokini in the foreground, Kaho‘olawe behind it, and the island of Lana‘i in the distance, you will absorb the full measure of beauty along the South Maui coastline. Stretching from Keawakapu Beach to The Fairmont Kea Lani, Maui, the 1.5-mile Coastal Walk offers easy access to the Wailea resort and is a great aerobic workout.

The Coastal Walk offers a rich introduction to local history, flora and fauna. At the Wailea Point Historical Interpretive Site, you’ll encounter an excellent introduction to the

more than 60 indigenous plants found in the Native Hawaiian Garden. These hardy plants include the a‘ali‘i, which provides wood for houses, and the ‘ilima, used in lei-making.

A partially restored homesite and plaque recount the story of the Native Hawaiians and Europeans who lived in the area between the late 1300s and early twentieth century.

From November to April, the Coastal Walk provides an ideal vantage point for viewing the humpback whales that migrate each year to these waters. They mate, give birth and nurse their young, all the while providing a spectacular show for spectators. For a closer view of these magnificent creatures, you can take one of the whale-watching excursions that depart daily from Ma‘alaea Harbor; ask your concierge for details.

©DANA EDMUNDS; ©MIKE REAGAN (MAP)

ON THE COASTAL WALK, ALL YOUR SENSES COME ALIVE

Wailea Point Condos

Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea

Wailea Beach Marriott Resort & Spa Andaz Maui at Wailea

The Fairmont Kea Lani, Maui

Wailea Beach Villas

Wailea Ekahi Condos

Wailea Elua Condos

Grand Wailea

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Wine

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& Dine

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A wine and food festival celebrates the crush

By JOCELYN FUJII | Photography by DANA EDMUNDS

I cook with wine. Sometimes I even add it to the food.

PHOTO CREDIT GOTHAAM BOOK 5.5/9PT

—W.C. FIELDS

Kyle Kawakami had a degree in marine biology when he decided he wanted to be a chef. “Cooking for me is very personal, and when I cook for someone in my home or at that person’s home, it’s an expression of aloha,” he says. “It’s a personal expression of how much I care for that person, and that feeling definitely goes into the food.”

Kawakami did become a chef, and then an instructor, and spread his culinary philosophy far and near. Tylun Pang, executive chef at Wailea Resort’s The Fairmont Kea Lani, Maui, was one of Kawakami’s mentors. “Kyle came to work for me and then went back to Maui Culinary Academy to teach,” said Pang, a generous and enthusiastic supporter of the school. “He is a great gentleman and was valedictorian of his class.”

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The “who’s who” of American winemakers will be sharing their expertise.

Every restaurant in Wailea is involved in some way with Maui Culinary Academy (MCA), located at the University of Hawai‘i Maui College. “The is­ land of Maui, Wailea Resort, and the culinary community are very close,” notes Kawakami. “Our partnerships with the industry are invaluable.”

So close is this community, in fact, that MCA has been designated the bene­ ficiary of the inaugural Wailea Wine & Food Festival, December 6 through 9 throughout Wailea Resort. The event is awash in the glamour, pleasure and culinary excellence for which Wailea is known, but it also brings much more.

It realizes the organizers’ dream of bringing the best of the winemakers’ art to the shores of South Maui, where a community of celebrated chefs awaits. The trifecta is this: Wailea’s renowned chefs, California’s leading-edge vintners and master sommeliers, and a supreme coastal setting on the island voted the “Best Island in the World” for 17 years by the readers of Condé Nast Traveler.

Here’s another stroke of symmetry: Wailea is the only place in Hawai‘i where four founding members of Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine—Mark Ellman, Bev Gannon, Peter Merriman and Alan Wong—own restaurants, adding even more star power to the mix.

Master sommelier Fred Dame, former president of the Court of Master

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Sommeliers Worldwide and an icon in the field, and Geoff Kruth, chief oper­ ating officer of the Guild of Sommeliers, are among the oenophile gurus, the “who’s who” of American wine experts, who will be sharing their expertise on the pleasures of the grape. Representing the cutting edge of California wine­ making, they’ll speak, sip, savor and share at the “wine encounters,” seminars and winemaker dinners at various Wailea venues.

“It’s unprecedented, a different kind of event,” says Roger Stettler, ex­ ecutive chef at Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea and an avid mentor to MCA students.

The chefs are busy transforming Maui’s famous food products and agricul­ ture—upcountry herbs and produce, grass-fed beef, fresh Island seafood and premium Hawaiian sea salts—into stellar dishes of high expectation.

“Of course, this will all be paired with exceptional wines,” adds Stetler.

To wit: passionate Pinots by Patz & Hall, Pisoni Vineyard, Foxen Winery and Brewer-Clifton. And cutting-edge winemakers Wind Gap Wines, Carlisle Winery, Copain Wines, Gordian Knot Winery and many more. Promising to be an explosion of talent from the cave and from the kitchen, the festival has an added feature: It takes place at the height of the whale-watching season.

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The chef’s profession is based on dedication and exceeding expectations.

In a place where wine, food, friends and sharing are celebrated daily, the Wailea Wine & Food Festival fits like a glove.

Chris Speere, external program coordinator at Maui Culinary Academy, expects the chefs of the future to have a presence at the festival, as they do at all major Wailea culinary events. “We have a longstanding reciprocal relationship with the hotels and restaurants in Wailea,” he says. “I would be hardpressed to find a kitchen or dining room in Wailea in which an MCA graduate is not an essential member of the food and beverage team.

“The chef’s profession is based on dedication to craft and exceeding expectations, and Wailea chefs are master practitioners of giving back to the profession, to the future chefs who will follow in their highly respected footsteps.”

Tylun Pang, one of those highly respected mentors, is busy year-round at Kö, the restaurant he oversees at The Fairmont Kea Lani, Maui. His dishes will be “something from Maui and sustainable,” he says. And he will be mentoring the students, too. “The students are always involved at the large food and wine events on Maui,” he reflects. “It’s good to let people know what it’s all about in the Islands. Not just in terms of culinary quality, but also in the aloha spirit. It shines through in how we do business with our partners.”

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EAST MEETS WEST IN WAILEA Chef Alan Wong merged a large vision with small plates when he opened his new restaurant last spring at Grand Wailea, a Waldorf Astoria Resort. His love of appetizers and big concepts, his boldness with the menu, his paean to local ingredients and his forward-thinking cuisine all found expression in Alan Wong’s Amasia, his first Wailea restaurant.

It rises out of a water garden across a small bridge, a vision of Kyoto serenity following a $2-million renovation of the former Kincha. Stones from Mt. Fuji have a sculptural, Zen-like presence. The 180-seat restaurant includes a private tatami room, private enclaves separated with gauzy curtains, a sushi bar, robata grill and a selection of tapas and small plates to be shared.

As one of the 12 founders of Hawaii

Regional Cuisine and a champion of locally sourced food, Wong designs menus that are loyal to the locavore and constantly changing according to what’s fresh and available.

“Think of Asian street food,” the chef explained. “Spain has tapas, the Japanese have izakayas, and all over Asia, you’ll find your own kind of street food.” In his James-Beardaward-winning, melt-in-your-mouth way, the short ribs are fork tender, the ahi meatballs evocative, the beets in li hing sauce a new taste experience.

Amasia is Wong's third and largest Hawai‘i restaurant, with more than 60 menu items reflecting his strong relationship with local farmers and producers. "I'm staying with the Hawaii Regional Cuisine theme and am sourcing Maui farmers first," says the chef.

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Wailea Hall of Fame It was yet another auspicious year for the 13th Annual Maui Film Festival, dubbed “Hawai‘i’s Answer to Sundance.”

The weeklong event served up a generous helping of cinema and star power, along with the usual fanfare at the festival’s signature events: the Opening Night Twilight Reception at Hotel Wailea’s Capische?, The Taste of Wailea and The Taste of Chocolate at Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea.

Festival co-directors Barry and Stella Rivers honored actress Elizabeth Banks (“The Hunger Games,” “What to Expect When You’re Expecting”) with the 2012 Navigator Award, an acknowledgment of the many roles through which she’s navigated in her career. Banks also took home the coveted Narrative Feature Audience Award for her film, “People Like Us,” which premiered at the star-studded Celestial Cinema.

Banks’s co-star and fellow guest of honor, James Marsden (“X-Men Series,” “Enchanted,” “Hairspray”), was presented with The Nova Award, which recognizes actors who deliver “stunningly original and seamless performances.” The festival also paid tribute to Josh Radnor (“How I Met Your Mother,” “Liberal Arts”), who accepted the first-ever Triple Threat Award for his “triple-threat status” as a writer, director and actor. Radnor is no stranger to the Maui Film Festival; his film, “Happythankyoumoreplease,” won an Audience Award in 2010.

While the lineup for next year’s festival may be under wraps for now, I’ve been assured that we can expect an inspiring slate of feature films and rising stars. Hollywood A-listers readily accept the festival’s invitation each year because Wailea is far removed from the frenetic pace of Hollywood. That’s why you’ll spot so many familiar faces around town, like Steven Tyler, who’s been known to lounge, book in hand, under his favorite monkeypod tree at The Shops at Wailea. He’s also a frequent visitor to his favorite shop, the Enchantress Boutique, as well as the new Aloha Shirt Museum at the Wailea Gateway Center. Celebrities such as Josh Hopkins (“Cougar Town”), Chris Noth (aka “Mr. Big” of “Sex and the City”), Sheryl Crow, Ellen Pompeo (“Grey’s Anatomy”), Julia Jones (“Twilight Saga”) and pop star and “X-Factor” judge Britney Spears have also been spotted enjoying some fun in the sun on 22

By Sarah Ruppenthal

Wailea’s glittering, world-renowned beaches.

You’ll also find artwork by a number of household names on display in the Célébrités Gallery at The Shops at Wailea, and on occasion, you’ll also find the artists themselves, such as Steven Tyler and Mick Fleetwood. Just around the corner, The Art of Peter Max Gallery recently welcomed Hawai‘i Governor Neil Abercrombie, who was presented with an exclusive painting of the state flag in the vision of Peter Max. The original painting is now on display at Washington Place, the Governor’s office in Honolulu.

As usual, it’s been a palate-pleasing season in Wailea, starting with seven days and seven nights of pre-fixe menus during May’s biannual Restaurant Week in Wailea. Fans are anticipating Restaurant Week in November, but in the meantime, no one in Wailea is bored. The recently opened Alan Wong’s Amasia at Grand Wailea Resort & Spa (his fan base includes President Barack Obama) keeps devotees in high gastronomic spirits, and that is just the tip of the iceberg.

To cap off these recent culinary developments, Wailea Resort will launch its newest signature event, the Wailea Wine & Food Festival in December. An inside source tells me that the exclusive event is guaranteed to “bring out the A-list.” Why? The hosts of the four-day event, Master Sommeliers Fred Dame and Geoff Kruth, have concocted, along with the Wailea organizers, an impressive lineup of winemakers’ dinners and symposiums certain to raise the bar (pun absolutely intended) for other gastronomic gatherings. Also in December, join the “who’s who” of Maui for the Sharing, Shopping & Symphony Fundraiser, a benefit concert for the local Boys & Girls Club at The Shops at Wailea.

And keep your ear to the ground for ... ta da ... Hawaiian music! The Fairmont Kea Lani, Maui offered free concerts last summer with the Institute of Hawaiian Music, University of Hawaii Maui College. It’s a long-term partnership, so there are more sweet sounds to come. Stay tuned--literally.

On a personal note, I will be passing the proverbial torch to a successor who is yet to be announced. It has been my distinct pleasure to share the Wailea Hall of Fame with you for the last year, and rest assured, I’m leaving you in very capable hands.

Until we meet again, aloha.

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Skies Wailea

The

of

The song and chant of the clouds Skies have a language, too.

They speak in color and cloud. They whisper, shelter, caress and cajole.

They threaten and inspire.

South Maui’s skies are a thing of beauty— a fleeting song, a medley of mood and magic.

By JOCELYN FUJII Photography by PETER LIU Hawaiian sayings by Mary Kawena Pukui, ‘Ölelo No‘eau Dawn whispers its greeting from hikina, the east, 6:12 a.m., over Wailea Old Blue.

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Mai ka lä hiki a ka lä kau From the sun’s arrival to the sun's rest.

PHOTO CREDIT GOTHAAM BOOK 5.5/9PT

The day wanes, 6:42 p.m., over Wailea Old Blue.

(Opposite) Dawn reaches the shoreline, 6:12 a.m., at Keawakapu Beach.

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Hë po walea, he ao walea i ka la‘i A NIGHT ENJOYED, A DAY ENJOYED IN THE CALM.

The day nears its end, the night arriving soon.

Moody clouds gather over Kealaikahiki Channel, the pathway to Tahiti. Molokini, and Kaho‘olawe behind it, bask in the channel, while the Pu‘u O Lai cinder cone stands at attention at the shoreline of Mäkena. Maui’s most recent lava flow formed this part of South Maui, a convergence of elements that dance in the wind shadow of Haleakalä. Wind and cloud patterns change by the minute as the sky spreads its wings, preparing to fade away for the evening. (From left) 6:42 p.m., Keawakapu Beach; 6:49 p.m., Wailea Old Blue.

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Na maka o kamakani EYES OF THE WIND

PHOTO CREDIT GOTHAAM BOOK 5.5/9PT

Coconut fronds reach for the sky, 6:53 p.m., Ulua Beach. (Opposite page) The West Maui Mountains reach for the sun, 5:47 p.m., Keawakapu Beach.

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(FROM LEFT) ©WILLIAM HORAK; COURTESY, THE STORY OF HAWAII MUSEUM.

All Over

THE MAP The Art of the Archipelago

By Jocelyn Fujii WHILE WE MODERN creatures have our eyes and ears trained on our computers, cell phones and GPS, our lives in slav-

ery to the apps and gigabytes and satellite transmissions of the 21st century, it’s fair to ask if maps—those once-essential companions in print—are becoming obsolete. Is that trusty two-dimensional guide, indispensable and dog-eared, destined for archival Siberia? In terms of utility, and marginalized as maps are by technology, perhaps. But as an art form, as a vigorous and elegant chronicle of Hawai‘i, there are few things more compelling than the centuries-old evolution of cartography in the Hawaiian Islands.

(Opposite page) The sister islands of Maui Nui appear in William Horak's antique-style contemporary map. (Above) Giovanni Cassini adapted Capt. James Cook's chart in 1798 and issued the first decorative map of Hawai‘i.

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—RILEY MOFFAT (Above) The Cook/Bligh chart, the first to be made of Hawai‘i.

(Opposite) Joseph Feher's Dole Co. map,1950.

he archipelago of Hawai‘i has been rigorously explored, surveyed, plumbed and mapped in the more than two centuries since British navigator Capt. James Cook brought the first western contact to the Islands.

The Polynesian voyagers before him, then the waves of explorers, missionaries, whalers, sugar plantations and tourists who followed him, have flocked to these shores and created the cultural and visual narrative we now know as Hawai‘i.

The migrating Polynesians had the best GPS of all: the maps in their heads.

They used their ancestral traditions, the skies and signs of nature, and their seagoing instincts to accomplish monumental feats as they explored beyond their South Pacific shores. “The Polynesians had colonized just about all of the inhabitable South Pacific islands by the 8th century and were traversing 2- to 3,000 miles of open ocean long before the Europeans,” observes Bryant Neal, a veteran in the antique map business who recently opened his Story of Hawaii Museum in Ma‘alaea. “It’s fascinating to see what was going on in the Pacific versus what was going on in the Atlantic.”

The Polynesians navigated vast expanses in their sailing canoes, using as their guides the stars, clouds, tides, winds, sun, moon, birds and other natural phenomena. Having traversed more than 2,000 miles of open ocean, they settled on Hawaiian soil and marked their boundaries with natural features.

Theirs was an oral tradition, their prowess proven since the 1970s by the Poly36

nesian sailing canoe Hokule‘a. Having sailed thousands of miles across the Pacific without navigational instruments, Hokule‘a is now planning to circumnavigate the world using its ancestors’ method of non-instrument navigation. The Polynesians who settled in Hawai‘i left no cartographic records, no maps and charts on rag paper, engraved and printed on copperplates. That was the destiny of the Europeans, beginning with Capt. James Cook.

Cook, the most famous navigator in the Pacific, was searching for the Northwest Passage in 1778, when his ships, the HMS Resolution and Discovery, encountered Hawai‘i. While some believe that the Spanish found Hawai‘i first, the Cook expedition is historically acknowledged as the first to arrive in the Hawaiian Islands. Compasses, sextants, chronometers, drafting tools and artists complemented Cook’s formidable maritime instincts. Forging a new frontier for exploration and grist for the mapmaking world, Cook and his team made the first map of the Hawaiian Islands, the archipelago he named the Sandwich Islands.

Maps from Cook’s voyage are lauded for their accuracy and historical significance, with archaic phonetic spellings befitting the first recorded views of Hawai‘i: O’why’he for Hawai‘i, Mowee for Maui and Ka’ra’ca’coo’a for Kealakekua, the name of the Hawai‘i island bay where Cook died in a clash with Hawaiians in 1779.

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“The Hawaiians had it all in their heads, but western culture had to put it all down.”

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“James Cook rose to be a commander in the British navy largely because of his accomplishments as a surveyor and cartographer,” writes Gary L. Fitzpatrick in his book, The Early Mapping of Hawai‘i. Cook’s talents in nautical surveying were “perfected like no one else of his time,” adds Riley Moffat, Fitzpatrick’s co-author on two subsequent books, the seminal Surveying the Mahele and Mapping the Lands and Waters of Hawai‘i. “His tools gave him the ability to make vertical profiles and determine locations and distances, which in turn enabled others to use his chart and navigate safely to enter harbors and avoid reefs … The Hawaiians had it all in their heads, but western culture had to put it all down.”

Cook had another unique gift. In Moffat’s words, it was “the uncanny ability to create accurate surveys without leaving the ship.” In marking the coastlines, harbors and features of the Islands, continues Moffat, “He was the foremost expert at making a running survey. That means he didn’t have to stop his ship while conducting his survey. He could do it while sailing.”

It’s never been unequivocally determined who gets final credit for the first survey of Hawai‘i under Capt. Cook. He worked with two artists, Lt. Henry Roberts and Master William Bligh (of “Mutiny on the Bounty” fame), who, Fitzgerald writes, also claimed credit.

The Cook/Bligh charts became the first printed maps of Hawai‘i and were officially printed in 1784, six years after the expedition. “There were approximately a thousand of those maps printed,” said Bryant Neal. “The drawings, called manuscripts, were taken back to England, where the imagery was painstakingly incised on copperplates in a process called intaglio. The handmade rag paper was pressed and rolled over it, and the more you did it, the more worn the copper became.” Because copper is a soft metal, he continued, “Gradually, with use, the image became less crisp, which is why the early pulls were the best.”

Riley Moffat describes another significant factor: “They had to engrave the map on the copperplate in reverse. That’s so when you print it, it comes out right.”

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(Top left) Alexander’s 1885 mahele map.

(Right) Aloha Airlines, which closed in 2008, distributed this route map in the 1950s.

PHOTO CREDIT GOTHAAM BOOK 5.5/9PT

Not surprisingly, the Cook/Bligh maps still in circulation—the antique maps made from the original plates—fetch high prices from collectors. Lahaina Printsellers, Maui’s prominent antique cartography gallery, now 33 years old, recently sold an original Cook/Bligh map for $13,500. “The first one we sold more than 30 years ago went out at $1,200,” recalls owner Alan Walker. “The prices have been rising steadily since. How many Cook maps have we sold? A minimum of 20—possibly 30, or even 40—of the official British Admiralty edition. We have sold hundreds of later editions.”

With the floodgates to the west wide open, other European explorers followed Cook—Jean-Francois de Galaup Comte de La Pérouse, George Vancouver, Otto von Kotzebue and others, each contributing a piece to Hawai‘i’s evolving cartographic puzzle. In 1820 came the missionaries, and 14 years later, Hawai‘i’s first printing press. The press was installed in what was then Lahainaluna Seminary in West Maui, the oldest American high school west of the Rockies. “Because they had to create their own textbooks, they had to learn how to engrave,” explains Neal. “So they started hand-drawing maps, which led them literally into engraving.” They printed textbooks, church materials, atlases, newspapers and maps, including the historic Samuel Kalama map of 1837.

“It’s the first map of Hawai‘i to be printed in Hawai‘i, the first map to be made by a non-westerner, and the first map to be made by a Hawaiian,” Neal continues. “Samuel Kalama was a Lahainaluna student who excelled in engraving. All these other maps were basically done for outsiders by outsiders.” The Kalama map, he adds, was done under the direction of Lahainaluna’s Sheldon Dibble.

Among other unprecedented events of the time was the notion of private land ownership. Hawaiian society had always been organized around land stewardship and the ahupua‘a system. The ahupua‘a, generally seen as the wedge-shaped land unit stretching from mountain to sea, was the self-sustaining social, economic, agricultural and environmental model that governed village life. Land

The Polynesian voyagers before Cook, then the waves of explorers, missionaries, whalers, sugar plantations and tourists who followed, have created the cultural and visual narrative we now know as Hawai‘i.

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(FROM LEFT) ©COURTESY, THE STORY OF HAWAII MUSEUM; COURTESY, RICHARD ING.

Contemporary artists merge geographic realism with their own vision. wasn’t owned, it was managed. And fee simple land was more than a departure, it was an upheaval. To implement the new paradigm of ownership, King Kamehameha III, Kauikeauoli, a Christian, launched the 1848 mahele, a period of land division and redistribution. Moffat and Fitzgerald devote their entire book, Surveying the Mahele, to the new mapping era that resulted. It was, they wrote, “rightfully considered one of the most significant chapters in the modern history of Hawai‘i.” Surveys and maps were essential for the new era.

“The Hawaiian Government Survey was created in 1870 so the Hawaiian government could map its own lands,” Neal continues. William DeWitt Alexander was appointed surveyor general of the Kingdom of Hawai‘i, which had as its raison d’être the Hawaiian Government Survey. In Mapping the Lands and Waters of Hawai‘i, Moffat and Fitzgerald describe in detail how Alexander camped out with natives, hiked into Haleakalä crater, and created the 1869 Haleakalä map that was considered “the most scientific land survey of Hawai‘i to that date.” Alexander’s father, William Patterson Alexander, taught surveying to the students at Lahainaluna, Hawai‘i’s epicenter of mapping at the time.

The U.S. overthrow of the Hawaiian monarchy in 1893, annexation to the U.S. in 1898, territorial status in 1900, World War II and Pearl Harbor, statehood in 1959, jet travel the same year—each event brought monumental change and its own mark to the visual representation of Hawai‘i.

Throughout Hawai‘i’s history, technology and the changing face of the 40

landscape wrought their changes on how Hawai‘i came to be depicted in two dimensions. The classic seriousness of early cartography became more detailed, decorative and colorful. Tourism, from the luxury liner days to the jet travel that arrived in 1959, brought its own kind of kitsch and practicality to island cartography.

Contemporary artists, such as Joyce Kozloff, merge geographic realism with their own vision in what is a dynamic art form. In a residency on Maui through the Hui Noe‘au Visual Arts Center some years ago, the New York artist created a series of remarkable woodblock prints, 7 feet by 3 feet in size, based on a 19th-century property map that she found at the Maui Historical Society.

“My work in mapping goes back to around 1990 and ’91, when I started,” she explained by phone from New York. “I had been doing public art for 25 years. And you always start with maps and diagrams—of the site, of the building. And you build your project into the existing site. I always saw those maps as a sort of scaffold. For me, maps are very rich in all kinds of information.”

Aesthetic value is one thing, but for Bryant Neal it’s more. Maps are a huge world view. “Everyone is amazed that we’re on the same longitude as Mexico City and Hong Kong,” he says, “almost directly north of Tahiti, 2,600 miles from San Francisco, 3,900 miles from Japan, 5,000 miles from China and Australia—it’s kind of the big picture of where we sit.”

(LEFT) ©JOYCE KOZLOFF; (RIGHT) COURTESY, THE STORY OF HAWAII MUSEUM.

(From left) Joyce Kozloff 's woodblock prints of Maui; Carolyn Quan's Mokupuni, based on the Samuel Kalama map.

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Paradise Found

How to be a good guest in Turtle Town

By SHANNON WIANECKI

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Turtles have their own â&#x20AC;&#x153;townâ&#x20AC;? in South Maui, including caves, sea arches, lava tubes and caverns.

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efore Tyrannosaurus rex stalked the earth, before the Hawaiian volcanoes erupted from the ocean’s floor, sea turtles were doing laps around the tropical Pacific. Miraculously, descendants of this ancient lineage are still with us. And in Hawai‘i, witnessing a sea turtle, or honu, in the wild is as easy as strapping on a mask and ducking into the deep blue.

Turtle Town isn’t an exact locale—it’s more of a general term for the glittering stretch of reef between Wailea and Mäkena. That is why, when I mentioned to my dive buddy that I wanted to visit Turtle Town, she asked, “Which one?”

Snorkel trip operators nicknamed the area decades ago after discovering that they could guarantee turtle sightings here. While turtles congregate around just about every fingerling of rocks jutting out from this coast, Turtle Town’s epicenter lies between Nahuna Point, also called Five Caves, and Mäkena Landing. Here,

the giant, gentle creatures meander through caves and sea arches. A five-minute drive from Wailea, the Mäkena Landing Beach Park offers ample parking, showers and restrooms, and the sandy beach entry couldn’t be easier.

“Hawai‘i is the spot for turtle viewing,” says Cheryl King, a marine biologist who monitors Maui’s nesting sea turtles. “In other countries they’re rare to see, and if you do see them, they race off. Here they’re not hunted, so they’re not afraid.”

Grazing herds of honu gather wherever there’s limu (seaweed) to munch on.

And they’re not the only munchers. The turtles frequent spots known as “cleaning stations,” where dainty, fluorescent Hawaiian cleaner wrasses have set up their underwater spas. By gently nibbling at the turtles’ carapaces, the wrasses free them of algae and parasites and receive a free snack in return.

Whatever you call it—Turtle Town, Five Caves or Mäkena Landing—this

On the surface, snorkelers enjoy the show.

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A turtle rests at a "cleaning station," awaiting the wrasses that will clean its carapace.

aquatic gymnasium is one of the island’s top dive sites, says Rachel Domingo, owner of Maui Dreams Dive Co., and my guide for the day. Most people visit Turtle Town as the second stop on their Molokini snorkel tour, but they miss half the fun. Snorkelers are restricted to the surface, which often gets crowded with boats and kayaks. Divers, on the other hand, can drop below to explore the caves and swim among the turtles.

By 8 a.m. sharp, Domingo and I are in our scuba gear trundling, penguin-like, to the water. “I can never see too many turtles,” says Domingo, who has logged hundreds of dives and seen marine life of every stripe. We swim on the surface, following the rocks on the right. A peacock flounder flutters an inch above the sand, its salt-and-pepper coloring blending into the surroundings. The collector urchins nearby aren’t born with a natural disguise, so they dress themselves with bits of coral and rock, hoping for the best. We reach the reef and descend. The shallow site never dips below 45 feet, which allows for a leisurely dive.

As I tune into the ambient sound of parrotfish snacking on coral, I spy my first honu. Its golden shell is dappled with sunlight. It turns a solemn, hooded

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eye to me. With two pulses of its powerful flippers, it dashes off.

Most of the green sea turtles in Hawai‘i are born in the French Frigate Shoals in the remote Northwestern Hawaiian Islands, but a small percentage nests on Maui. Female turtles dig huge depressions in the sand, where they lay around 100 eggs, a handful of which will survive. Weeks later, under the cover of darkness, the sand starts to move. A tiny flipper emerges, then another and another. Guided by starlight, the hatchlings race to the sea. Dodging a gauntlet of hungry crabs, birds, and predatory fish, they disappear into the currents. Scientists lose track of them until they show up, decades later, in the main Hawaiian Islands.

“Every little piece of the sea turtle’s life history is fascinating,” says King.

“I think humans can relate to a tiny turtle who struggles to get through the pounding waves to go off on a journey to who knows where.”

Amazingly, sea turtles navigate the ocean using internal compasses that sense the earth’s magnetic field. My own compass is comparatively defunct; I rely on Domingo to find the caves. A fellow diver had supplied me earlier with these seemingly spurious directions: “When you see a rock surrounded by unicornfish

© peter liu

Sea turtles can remain submerged for two hours but usually surface sooner.

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For all their girth and mass, turtles grow a halfinch a year.

An internal compass helps turtles sense the earth's magnetic field.

with a piece of yellowish wire coral sticking up, turn right.” Sure enough, I see the spindly strand, about 15 feet below a posse of snorkelers pointing down at a cave. Domingo and I flip on our dive lights and enter.

The volcanic caves along this coastline were formed during some of Haleakalä’s freshest explosions. Pu‘u O Lai, the tall cinder cone at the southeast tip, is the result of the most recent eruption, sometime between 200 and 500 years ago.

As lava hit the seawater and cooled, the trapped air formed tunnels and tubes— perfect shelters for resting turtles and sharks.

An accidental fin kick could kill fragile coral polyps or leave me with urchin spines painfully embedded in my skin. I scan the sandy-bottomed cavern for its well-known inhabitants: a shy white-tipped shark and an enormous turtle. I spot the shark, turning circles in the shadows. In the opposite 48

corner, the massive turtle resembles a slumbering sumo wrestler. For all their girth and mass, turGo with a guide and let tles grow a half-inch each year. This one exceeds someone who knows three feet in length and likely weighs 250 pounds. the turf show you the ins and outs of the caves.

I marvel at its probable age, how many years it Check with your local has watched divers come and go. concierge to find a dive They watch us calmly, remarkably tolerant company or ocean activity center. Snorkeling of us interlopers. And they have little reason to or diving here is best in be tolerant. Hunted for their shells, eggs, and the morning, before the flesh, they were nearly eradicated by the 1960s. wind stirs up whitecaps.

To volunteer with In 1978, they received protection as a federally Dawn Patrol, call endangered species. Today, harassing or touch808.280.8124 or visit ing green sea turtles is illegal, a violation carrywww.wildhawaii.org. ing stiff penalties. While turtle populations have rebounded, the graceful creatures still face daunting threats: habitat loss, marine debris entanglement or ingestion, incidental capture, vessel strikes, disease and climate change.

Fortunately, honu have their champions. During the May through November nesting season, King supervises Dawn Patrol, a group of local and visiting volunteers who forgo sleep to walk South Maui’s beaches through the wee hours. Turtles nest at night, often several times in one season. “We can’t be everywhere,” says King, “so we definitely need the public’s help.” Devoted volunteers monitor where mother turtles deposit their eggs, then later return to steer disoriented hatchlings toward the sea. Nests may fail sometimes, says King, due to the temperature of the sand, which may be too high, or if the eggs are laid beneath roots and vines that trap the emerging hatchlings. Occasionally, excavations may turn up a few half-buried, but still determined nestlings.

Sea turtles can remain submerged for two hours but usually surface every few minutes to breathe. A second turtle I hadn’t noticed also nudges by. Soaring overhead like spaceships, the complacent reptiles survey their domain.

On the way to the next attraction, I spot several more turtles and a moray eel slithering out in the open. Sharp-eyed Domingo finds a frogfish, one of my favorite reef inhabitants. This blunt-faced, cryptic creature looks more like a piece of flotsam than the skulking predator that it is. Dressed in far more sophisticated camouflage than that of the flounder or collector urchin, the frogfish can precisely mimic the texture and color of its perch. To attract prey, it waves a slender appendage over its closed jaw. When a curious fish draws near, whammo! The frogfish swallows it whole.

Domingo points to the entrance of the bubble cave along a volcanic shelf in shallow water. This lava tube actually extends shoreward, beneath the land. A house sits directly above the cavern’s “bubble,” an underground air pocket where we surface and enjoy the novelty of removing our regulators mid-dive. Scores of turtles retreat here to sleep at night. With its dynamic caves and geological features, Turtle Town ranks among my most memorable dives. When you add the encounters with one of Earth’s oldest species, it’s downright magical.

©PETER LIU

EXPLORING TURTLE TOWN

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Meet Brenda Rego, Hawai‘i’s only female head golf professional

By GRADY TIMMONS Photography by DANA EDMUNDS

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PHOTO CREDIT GOTHAAM BOOK 5.5/9PT

IN THE

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morning, Brenda Rego arrives for work at the Wailea Old Blue.

In the pre-dawn darkness at the golf club, she opens the club shop and is soon checking in guests. It’s the first of many duties she will perform in a day that may not end until dusk.

t 5:45 a.m. on a weekday

Long days at the golf course are nothing new for Rego. She has had a strong work ethic since she began playing the game as a girl. Born into a prominent golfing family and raised on a plantation, she was a champion junior, college and amateur golfer who made it all the way to the LPGA Tour. Today she continues to distinguish herself as the head professional at the Wailea Old Blue.

It’s a singular honor: She is the only female head golf professional in the state.

“Anybody who has been around golf in Hawai‘i knows Brenda and her family,” says Barry Helle, the club’s general manager. “She’s paid her dues. We get a lot of regular customers here. And whether they are Wailea homeowners, hotel guests or local Maui residents, they all know and love her.”

How did a girl raised on a plantation rise to the position of head golf professional at a world-famous resort? Mostly through hard work, says Helle. “Brenda is as dedicated as they come,” he observes. “You’re not going to outwork her.”

Rego grew up in Kunia, a small plantation community set against the Wai‘anae Mountains in central O‘ahu. Her father, who worked for the Del Monte Corporation, had playing privileges at the nearby Hawai‘i Country Club, where Brenda learned to golf.

“I began playing when I was 10,” she says. “My dad used to play nine holes after work, and my younger brother, Clyde, and I would tag along. We had one club and we would run and hit the ball, run and hit the ball. That’s how we got started.”

Life in the Rego household centered around golf. Rego had three brothers, Art, Darrell and Clyde, each an accomplished golfer who made the game his profession. Competing daily against her brothers helped make her a dominant female golfer. At her peak, she won every major women’s amateur event in the state, some of them multiple times. In 1976, she captured the coveted Jennie K. Wilson

Rego at Wailea Old Blue

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Throughout her career, Rego has given back generously to golf.

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©artin ahmadi

Wailea Gold Course, 5th Hole

Invitational and the Hawai‘i State Women’s Amateur Championship. In 1977, she reached the quarterfinals of the U.S. Women’s Amateur Public Links Championship, and, in 1978, she helped Florida International University finish third in the AIAW Senior Nationals. That same year, she won the prestigious Women’s Southern Intercollegiate and her second Hawai‘i Women’s State Amateur Championship. She won the 1982 Hawai‘i Women’s State Open as a professional.

Rego turned pro in 1980 after making it through the LPGA Tour Qualifying School. Her time on Tour, however, was short-lived. Her first year, she missed keeping her card by a mere $150 dollars. The following year, she came up short trying to regain it and left Tour life in 1984 to work for her brother, Art, then head professional at O‘ahu’s Mililani Golf Club. Eventually she followed him to the Waiehu Municipal Golf Course on Maui, where, in 1990, she became the state’s first female Class A professional.

Rego joined the staff at Wailea in 1998, working first as an assistant pro at the Gold and Emerald courses before being named head pro at the Wailea Old Blue in 2008. It was just a short hop next door for Rego, but it was a big leap forward for women pros.

“I’m proud to be the head golf professional here,” she says. “This is a first-class resort. I work with great people. I get to meet interesting people from all over the world. You can’t beat it.”

Rego is in charge of day-to-day golf operations at the Old Blue, overseeing a staff of fifteen. She checks in guests, manages the golf shop, runs tournaments and handles the merchandising and restocking. “I’m pretty organized,” she says. “My strength is making sure everything is in order all the time.”

Having been at Wailea for well over a decade, Rego is familiar with all three of its courses. Not surprisingly, she is partial to the Old Blue, the first course built at the resort and a former site of the LPGA Women’s Kemper Open.

Completed in 1972, Old Blue is classic in design, and, like all three Wailea layouts, features stupendous ocean and mountain views. “With its wide fairways and big greens, it’s ideal for the novice golfer,” Rego says.

The Gold and Emerald courses, open since 1994, are companion layouts built

by Robert Trent Jones, Jr. Both will test your skills, but Rego calls the Gold, former site of the nationally televised Champions Skins Tournament, the more challenging of the two. Left in a more natural state, with native grasses and exposed

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Wailea Emerald Course, 17th Hole

lava rock walls, it has 93 bunkers and can be stretched to 7,078 yards.

In contrast to the ruggedly handsome Gold Course, the Emerald is an exotic beauty—lushly landscaped with wide, manicured fairways, few forced carries and colorful flower gardens. Rego calls it a jewel of a layout, as beautiful as it is playable and highly popular with the ladies. “The women just love all the flowers,” she says.

Over the course of her professional career, Rego has given back generously to golf. She’s been on the Board of Directors of the statewide Hawai‘i State Junior Golf Association since 2000 and currently serves as coach for Maui High School’s girls golf team.

In 2010, her long-time student, Cassy Isagawa, won the national Junior PGA Girls’ Championship, thereby earning an invitation to compete in the Junior Ryder Cup, played that year in Scotland. She is currently attending the University of Oregon on a full golf scholarship.

Rego values the time she spends teaching junior- and high-school golfers—as does Helle, who confesses that it’s one of the reasons he hired her.

“Brenda’s greatest strength is her people skills,” he says. “Whether it’s the kids she coaches, the staff she supervises, or the guests and local residents who come here to play golf, she has a way of connecting with all of them. It would be hard to imagine this place without her. She’s really the face of the Blue.”

Like all athletes, golfers are not always born champions. Tiger Woods may have wielded a club as a toddler, but most golfers train hard, practice tirelessly and stick with the game to gain their chops. Besides being Hawai‘i’s only 54-hole golf resort, Wailea Golf Club is a training ground for the golf legends of the future, as well as the casual pleasure golfer.

Education and amenities include The David Leadbetter Golf Academy, which chose Wailea Resort for its first Hawai‘i school in 2006. Instructor Eddie Lee, ranked by Golf Digest as Hawai‘i’s No. 1 golf teacher in 2005, and again for 2007– 2008, is a certified golf instructor, along with Renee Lee, his wife. They teach both amateurs and professionals in an intimate learning environment that extends into the 12-acre Gold/Emerald practice facility.

Two award-winning pro shops, one of them among the state’s largest, provide for all golf needs. The Pro Shop at the Gold & Emerald Clubhouse has won 14 regional and national awards, while the Wailea Old Blue Clubhouse is known for its golf equipment, accessories and fashionable sportswear.

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©artin ahmadi

From the Ground Up

Sweet The

Story of Ko

Raising cane on Maui

By PAUL WOOD Photography by DANA EDMUNDS

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Against the backdrop of HaleakalÄ , sugar fields thrive in Central Maui's Spreckelsville.

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Central Maui’s 36,000-acre “lawn” of sugar cane elicits oohs and ahs from first-time jet arrivals. It’s the last of Hawai‘i’s

great plantations, the 140-year-old Hawaiian Commercial & Sugar Company (HC&S), a reminder of how so much of the island chain looked throughout the 20th century. Without it, Maui’s isthmus would be a sand-blown desert.

Without it, Maui’s faces would be less diverse, its voices less colorful, and its cuisine far less interesting.

The plant, a much-hybridized version of Saccharum officinarum, is a monstrous grass with strong, unbranched stems, some 20-feet long, that form clumps known as rattoons. Watered and fed by drip irrigation, the canes fatten in place for about two years. Then they flower, thrusting up a long wand that unfurls as a graceful silvery tassel. The plantation prefers to harvest before those tassels appear, first by letting the plants go dry, then by burning the fields in spectacular conflagrations. Towers of smoke rise into the Maui sky, often turning into mushroom clouds in the upper atmosphere. As the

trades blow that smoke out to sea, Maui residents write letters of complaint to The Maui News. Such is the seasonal pattern of our lives.

With their leaves seared away, the juice-heavy canes are grabbed and hauled off by gigantic motorized contraptions, then trucked to a hulking mill in Pu‘unënë, the only sugar mill in the Hawaiian Islands and probably the last one there will ever be. Its unlovely but powerful presence stands as a true Maui icon, but its symbolism depends on the beholder. For some, it’s the good old days and the pluck of 19th-century industry. For others

Saccharum officinarum, officially a grass, grows abundantly under the gaze of Haleakalä.

(Opposite page) The Alexander & Baldwin Sugar Museum has six exhibit rooms of photos, documents, artifacts and memorabilia, including vintage glass from the pre-pop-top days.

The museum is designed in the plantation style.

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(Left) Coconut water is sweet and abundant in young coconuts like these. (Opposite) From trunk to fruit to frond, every part of the coconut is useful, and some are known to live for 100 years.

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Mill workers pause in an archival photo at the museum, where the cycle of sugar, from agriculture to processing and packing, is on display. Today the mill in Pu‘unēnē is the only sugar mill in Hawai‘i, and likely its last.

Immigration accompanied the mass production of Maui sugar, which began in 1869. it represents the hardships of plantation life and the controversial practice of field burning—a practice that many residents of the reputed “best island in the world” wish would disappear.

Relatively few people know what goes on in the mill—it is not a tourist attraction—but its tall, spewing stack is visible from pretty much everywhere in Central Maui. Across the street, the highly informative Alexander & Baldwin Sugar Museum acknowledges the importance of this crop in the Islands, culturally as well as agriculturally. As Gaylord Kubota, director emeritus of the museum, observes, “The multiethnic and multicultural society that resulted from recruiting plantation laborers from many countries will continue to characterize Hawai‘i’s unique lifestyle.”

Sugar cane has been a foodstuff on Maui as long as humans have been here.

It was a staple of pre-contact Hawaiian life, its rampant clumps framing the taro ponds and competing with banana patches for vertical dominance. The Hawaiian name for the plant is kö, and the resourceful islanders had names for

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at least 40 varieties. You can find these plants growing at Maui Nui Botanical Gardens in Kahului, which specializes in native and heritage plants, and at Kahanu Garden in Häna, which includes a display area for the “canoe plants” introduced by early Polynesian settlers.

Curiously, the first experience of kö as something more than a garden crop flowed out of barrels aboard the earliest Western sailing ships. Because prediscovery islanders had no idea that sugar juice could be turned into liquor, rum rocked the Hawaiian world during the early 19th century. Most ali‘i nui (great chiefs) had their own stills and wavered over the ethical choice between booze and the Bible. At first they were primarily distilling ‘ökolehao, a native concoction using the roots of ti plants, but sugar juice gradually replaced ti as a moonshine component. Today, Haleakala Distillers has revived the practice with its award-winning, handcrafted and locally made rums. Co-owner Leslie Sargent says, “We get our molasses fresh from the mill in Pu‘unënë. It’s still warm in the tank when it gets to our distillery at the 2,000-foot elevation on

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Before harvesting, sugar cane is grown for about two years.

Sugar cane for the last mill in Hawai‘i grows in the central Maui plateau.

Haleakalä.” For nostalgia’s sake, the company also produces a liqueur named ‘ökolehao, made from ti and sweetened with evaporated cane juice.

Chinese pioneers were the first in the Islands to try cane as a commercial enterprise—that is, to extract and boil the pure juice. As early as 1802, a fellow named Wong Tze-Chun set up pans and a grinder on Läna‘i, learning the hard way that the island is too arid for such a thirsty plant. Mr. Wong returned to China after a single disappointing year.

During the 1820s, two other Chinese, Ahung and Atai, established a successful mill in a location with better irrigation: central Maui’s Wailuku. Soon there were small operations just about anywhere on Maui with sufficient water.

Two prominent relics are the tall Pioneer Mill smokestack in the center of Lahaina and the mostly deconstructed old mill above Pä‘ia on Baldwin Avenue. While both of those mills ceased operation within recent memory, you can find wrecks, or at least memories of mills, in Wailuku, Waikapü, Ha‘ikü, ‘Ulupalakua, Kïpahulu, Häna and Makawao, at Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center.

HC&S has outlasted them all, representing the kind of plantation-scale cane farming that has dominated the Islands since the late 1800s. During the 1920s

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and ’30s, HC&S housed 7,000 workers in 26 “camps” scattered throughout the operation. These contract workers, the progenitors of Hawai‘i’s multiethnic population, came from China, Japan, Korea, Okinawa, Portugal, Puerto Rico, Europe, other Pacific Islands and, increasingly in later years, the Philippines. Out of the babel of camp life grew varieties of pidgin English, as well as the poly-cultural cuisine known as “Hawaiian plate lunch.”

Plenty of Maui old-timers were born in the long-gone Pä‘ia Hospital, in the most populous town at the time, and attended Maui High School, now an eloquent plantation reminder in the fields mauka (inland) of Ho‘okipa Beach Park.

“Whenever I give a tour and get to the area that talks about plantation camps,” says Roslyn Lightfoot, director of the Alexander & Baldwin Sugar Museum, “I get choked up. You can’t think of these people without empathy because of what they gave up so that their descendants could have more. I try to imagine myself leaving my country, leaving my family behind, hoping to get back home someday. They worked hard, very hard.”

Immigration accompanied the mass production of Maui sugar, which started in 1869 with the partnership of missionary sons Samuel T. Alexander and Henry

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P. Baldwin. Their dramatic tale, which includes the construction of a historic 17mile irrigation system, is widely known.

A good historian would have no trouble drawing a straight line between their success in 1878 and the Maui we know today, including the establishment of Wailea Resort by Alexander & Baldwin in 1971. Even today, the influence of HC&S is sprinkled throughout the Wailea experience. Renowned restaurateur Peter Merriman, who, in 2011, opened Monkeypod Kitchen at the Wailea Gateway Center, is one Wailea chef completely committed to the philosophy of eating local foods. He uses only Maui-grown sugar. “Where else but here could you call it ‘locavore’ to use sugar?” he asks. His cuisine is closely tied to sugar, he says, in that the decline of plantations has opened up agricultural opportunities for many of the other fresh crops he uses, such as vine-ripened tomatoes, hearts of palm, haricots verts, vanilla bean and many types of tropical fruit.

To discover that “locavore” can also be otherworldly, try the Locavore Mai Tai at Alan Wong’s well-named new restaurant, Amasia.

Built from three kinds of Maui rum plus Island vanilla, ginger, pineapple, lime and macadamia nuts, this gorgeous concoction starts with granulated Maui sugar. Amasia’s coffee options, which read like a fine wine list, all feature island sugar.

Chef Peleg Miron at Spago recommends his savory Thai Shrimp and Mango Salad, which features Maui sugar in the marinade, the dressing, the sauce and the cooking. “We’re just trying to keep things more local, basically.”

Capische? at Hotel Wailea swears that Maui Sugar in the Raw is the world’s best for caramelizing a crust on a crème brulée.

And then there’s the newly renovated Kö Restaurant at The Fairmont Kea Lani, Maui, where the architecture, the menu and even the cocktail stir-sticks honor the plant and the unique island culture that grew around it. Just around the corner at Nick’s Fishmarket, you can’t get more decadent than the Strawberries Panzini, flambéed tableside with Grand Marnier and served with Maui sugar, chocolate sauce and clotted cream.

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(from left) courtesy of Nick’s Fishmarket; courtesy of Kö Restaurant at The Fairmont Kea Lani, Maui

(From left) Flaming strawberries are a Nick's Fishmarket signature, and Kō, at The Fairmont Kea Lani, Maui, sprinkles Maui sugar on its ginger-citrus soufflé.

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

E AK FAST ON

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E AC H

NO W

V

BR G N I

EB

S ER

Award Winning Cuisine ... Service ... Wine Cellar ... Views

Breakfast served every morning, Happy Hour nightly, Dinner every evening 2980 S. Kihei Road “Award of Excellence for the 10th Consecutive Year” – Wine Spectator Magazine

“Our Favorite Dinner Restaurant on Maui– Unbeatable Service, Killer Location & Excellent Food”

808.875.7555 www.tristarrestaurants.com

“Top Ten Restaurants on Maui” – JustLuxe.com

“Four Diamond Award– 8th Consecutive Year” – American Automotive Association

– Maui Revealed

From the people who bring you Son’z at Swan Court, Nick’s Fishmarket, Maui and Sarento’s Ilikai

You don’t even have to eat the sugar. You can just let it exfoliate you, as many people do with the sugar-based cleansing and body-polishing treatments at Spa Grande, Grand Wailea Resort; Mandara Spa, Wailea Beach Marriott Resort & Spa; and Spa Kea Lani, The Fairmont Kea Lani, Maui. The spa at Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea offers the choice between CoconutLemongrass Scrub and Coffee-Cacao Scrub, both using sugar-based products made in the Islands. Says Four Seasons Spa Director Pat Makozak, “Sugar is a great exfoliant, containing a lot of enzymes. People love to do [a sugar scrub] as soon as they arrive. This lifts the senses and gets people ready to sunbathe.”

I suspect that Wong Tze-Chun had no idea of the sweet spot he created.

SWEET TALK

refined into white table sugar.

Raw sugar refers to minimally processed, non-food grade sugar. HC&S ships it in bulk to the C&H (for California and Hawai‘i) Sugar refinery in California for further processing.

Molasses is the viscous liquid that remains after raw sugar is separated from the crystals. It can be fermented as an ingredient in rum or used as a dark-colored sweetener in baking and in dishes. It’s also used as additive in livestock feeds.

Bagasse is the fibrous material that remains after the sugar cane stalks are shredded and squeezed. This fiber is combusted in HC&S’s power plant and serves as a renewable source of energy.

Turbinado is a naturally amber-colored sugar made by slow boiling. Turbinado sugar crystals are much larger than standard sugar and retain some of the flavor of molasses, which is contained inside the crystal as a natural byproduct of the sugar process.

Evaporated cane juice is minimally processed and an alternative to refined sugar.

©Olga Miltsova/shutterstock

Sugar is always sweet, not always white, and takes many forms. It’s not always granular, and terms such as turbinado, raw, refined and sucrose can be confusing. Here’s a primer for your sweet tooth: Sucrose is a disaccharide compound that is the chief component of beet and cane sugar.

Sugar cane is a tall, fibrous plant containing high levels of sucrose and some glucose and fructose. On Maui, sugar cane, scientifically classified as a grass, is grown for two years prior to harvesting.

Natural cane sugar comes from the pressing or milling of shredded sugar cane stalks. The juice is concentrated to form a syrup in which the crystals will grow. The final mixture, called massecuite (a combination of crystals and molasses), is poured into a centrifuge and spun to separate the molasses from the crystals. A "steam bath" removes the excess molasses.

The end product, with a hint of molasses, is natural cane sugar, which is then

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DINING

RESTAURANT NAME/PHONE

CUISINE TYPE

SERVICE

COCKTAILS/ENTERTAINMENT

Alan Wong's Amasia, Grand Wailea 800.888.6100

Hawai‘i Regional

D

C/B/W/E

California & Island Cuisine

L/D

C/B/W

Botero Gallery Lounge, Grand Wailea 800.888.6100

Pūpū

P

C/B/W/E

Café Kula Marketplace, Grand Wailea 800.888.6100

Gourmet Deli & Market

B/L/D

B/W

Caffé Ciao Bakery & Deli, The Fairmont Kea Lani, Maui 808.875.4100

Gourmet Deli

B/L/D

B/W

Capische?, Hotel Wailea 808.879.2224

Italian/French

D

C/B/W/E

Cheeseburger Island Style, The Shops at Wailea 808.874.8990

American

B/L/D

C/B/W

The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf, The Shops at Wailea 808.891.2045

Coffee Shop

B

N/A

Steak/Seafood

B/D

C/B/W

Italian

L/D

C/B/W/E

Hawai‘i Regional

B/L/D

C/B/W/E

American

B/Br

C/B/W

Honua‘ula Lu‘au, Grand Wailea 808.875.7710

Lu‘au Show

Buffet

C/B/W/E

Honolulu Coffee Co., The Shops at Wailea 808.875.6630

Coffee Shop

B

N/A

Pacific Rim

D

C/B/W/E

American/Hawai‘i Regional

D

C/B/W

Sushi/Japanese Tapas

L/D

C/B/W

Bistro Molokini, Grand Wailea 800.888.6100

DUO, Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea 808.874.8000 Ferraro's Bar e Ristorante, Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea 808.874.8000 Gannon's, Wailea Gold & Emerald Golf Courses 808.875.8080 Grand Dining Room, Grand Wailea 800.888.6100

Humuhumunukunukuapua‘a, Grand Wailea 800.888.6100 Joe's, Wailea Tennis Club 808.875.7767 KAI Wailea, The Shops at Wailea 808.875.1955

KEY TO DINING ABBREVIATIONS: Service: (B) Breakfast; (Br) Brunch; (L) Lunch; (D) Dinner; (P) Pūpū/Appetizer. Cocktails/Entertainment: (C) Cocktails; (E) Entertainment; (B/W) Beer and Wine.

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(from left) ©arena creative/shutterstock; ©mat hayward/shutterstock; ©barbara dudzinska/shutterstock

Wailea Guide

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DINING

Wailea Guide RESTAURANT NAME/PHONE

CUISINE TYPE

SERVICE

COCKTAILS/ENTERTAINMENT

Plantation-Era Inspired

L/D

C/B/W/E

American

L

C/B/W

Pūpū/Dessert

P

C/B/W/E

Mediterranean/Seafood

B/L/D

C/B/W

Pūpū

P

C/B/W/E

Mediterranean

B/D

C/B/W

Manoli's Pizza Company, 100 Wailea Ike Drive 808.874.7499

Italian

L/D

C/B/W

Monkeypod Kitchen, Wailea Gateway Center 808.891.2322

Handcrafted Hawai‘i Regional

L/D

C/B/W/E

Irish/American

B/L/D

C/B/W/E

Classic Continental/Seafood

D

C/B/W

Mediterranean

L/D

C/B/W

American

L

C/B/W

Steaks/Seafood

D

C/B/W

Pacific Rim

D

C/B/W

Coffee Shop

B/L

N/A

Sandwich/Deli

B/L

N/A

Lu‘au Show

Buffet

C/B/W/E

American/Caribbean

L/D

C/B/W

American

L

C/B/W

Kō, The Fairmont Kea Lani, Maui 808-875-2210 Kumu Bar & Grill, Wailea Beach Marriott Resort & Spa 808.879.1922 Lobby Lounge, Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea 808.874.8000 Longhi's, The Shops at Wailea 808.891.8883 Luana Lounge, The Fairmont Kea Lani, Maui 808.875.4100 Mala Restaurant & Lounge, Wailea Beach Marriott Resort & Spa 808.875.9394

Mulligan's on the Blue, 100 Kaukahi St. 808.874.1131 Nick's Fishmarket Maui, The Fairmont Kea Lani, Maui 808.879.7224 Pita Paradise, Wailea Gateway Center 808.879.7177 Polo Beach Grille & Bar, The Fairmont Kea Lani, Maui 808.875.4100 Ruth's Chris Steak House, The Shops at Wailea 808.874.8880 Spago, Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea 808.879.2999 Starbucks, Wailea Beach Marriott Resort & Spa 808.874.7981 Subway, Wailea Gateway Center 808.875.7827 Te Au Moana, Wailea Beach Marriott Resort & Spa 808.827.2740 Tommy Bahama Restaurant & Bar, The Shops at Wailea 808.875.9983 Volcano Grill & Bar, Grand Wailea 800.888.6100

KEY TO DINING ABBREVIATIONS: Service: (B) Breakfast; (Br) Brunch; (L) Lunch; (D) Dinner; (P) Pūpū/Appetizer. Cocktails/Entertainment: (C) Cocktails; (E) Entertainment; (B/W) Beer and Wine.

Restaurant Week Twice a year, in November and May, participating restaurants throughout Wailea Resort offer their finest cuisine in remarkable three-course, pre-fixe menus for just $29, $39 or $49 per person.

Restaurant Week takes place November 4 to 10, 2012. For details and menus, and for more information on the November event, visit www.wailearesortassociation.com.

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©phil date/shutterstock

IN WAILEA

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Resorts, Amenities and More

Celebrate the good life in Wailea

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WAILEA RESORT’S accommodations, services and amenities are of a standard rarely seen within a single community. Within this 1,500-acre South Maui destination, five luxury hotels, vacation rentals, town homes, villas and condos bask in weather averaging 82º F. a year. A coastal trail connects them all along five white-sand beaches, and shops, spas and restaurants are within the hotels or minutes from each. For sports lovers, three championship golf courses and the Wailea Tennis Club are the perfect complement to a vacation at Wailea Resort.

RESORT NAME Andaz Maui at Wailea Destination Resorts Hawaii Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea

WEBSITE www.maui.andaz.com www.drhmaui.com www.fourseasons.com/maui

Grand Wailea

www.grandwailea.com

Hotel Wailea

www.hotelwailea.com

The Fairmont Kea Lani, Maui Wailea Beach Marriott Resort & Spa Wailea Golf Club

www.fairmont.com/kealani www.waileamarriott.com www.waileagolf.com

Wailea Tennis Club

www.waileatennis.com

The Shops at Wailea

www.shopsatwailea.com www.keanpropertieshawaii.com/id66.html

(OPPOSITE PAGE) ©DANA EDMUNDS; (THIS PAGE) ©SHUTTERSTOCK

Wailea Gateway Center

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Life, Wailea Style The ingredients of an ideal lifestyle

There’s a reason the 1,500-acre Wailea Resort is the jewel of South

Maui. Look mauka—toward the mountain—and you’ll see the 10,023-foot Haleakalä. Look makai—toward the ocean—and take in the ocean panorama with sunset spectacles and breaching whales in the winter. Look up: blue skies. Look around: a greened-over volcanic landscape with luxury homes and accommodations, where exceptional services are equal to the environment.

You can choose to live in a 5,000-square-foot residence with a milliondollar view or a 900-square-foot condo with the same extraordinary vista.

Ocean, mountain and garden views offer 360-degree splendor, and awards and accolades from around the world honor the way of life in Wailea. Villas, condominiums, contemporary Hawaiian duplexes, single-family homes and town-home residences are among the lifestyle choices.

Peerless ocean views from multiple elevations are a given. Some seek to find a home site to see their dreams unfold from the ground up. Others ponder the luxurious possibilities of life in a condo, or two- and threebedroom suites and villas.

From daily housekeeping to fully equipped kitchens, peerless amenities are the norm. In Wailea’s vacation properties, the amenities and services are parallel to those of the surrounding luxury hotels. A tailored Wailea experience could include a private chef or adventure guide, a personal concierge, or a pool attendant for the private adult pool at Destination Resorts Wailea Beach Villas.

And daily pleasures abound: the award-winning restaurants and spas, the garden enclaves, the sunrise and sunset strolls on the resort’s gym without walls, the Wailea Coastal Walk.

Five white-sand beaches are the centerpiece of Wailea Resort. But when you add the luxurious choices for renting, buying or building a home, the award-winning golf courses and wintertime whale-watching, the seasoned management and pampering, you know why people live here.

For more information on the Wailea Resort lifestyle experience, please visit www.wailearesortassociation.com.

Wailea Beach Villas

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©Destination Resorts Hawaii

Luxury homes and accommodations offer services equal to the environment.

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Waileaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s vacation properties offer amenities and services parallel to those of the surrounding luxury hotels.

Wailea Village WaileaEkahi Beach Villas

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&

COLOR, LIGHT THE ART OF LIVING How art and place intersect

PHOTO CREDIT GOTHAAM BOOK 5.5/9PT

By JOCELYN FUJII | Photography by NINA KUNA

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PHOTO CREDIT GOTHAAM BOOK 5.5/9PT

Sandra Clark's Wailea home is filled with her creations of fiber art and glass.

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“People tell me that my paintings make them happy.”

—ED LANE

(This page) Inspiration and joy come readily to Ed Lane, who welcomes the world into his studio.

(Opposite page) A detail of Lane’s painting, “Magical West Maui Mountains.”

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about golf and art—and gifted enough to do well at both. For these three artists, Wailea is not just home. It’s a place that summons the Muse and unleashes their creativity—a place where art and lifestyle are one, and inspiration flows freely.

A Fiery, Creative Spirit

Glass and fiber artist Sandra Clark was a child growing up in Japan when she first tapped into her love of art. “Being in Japan, I started studying the textile and fiber arts of the Japanese early on,” she explains. “I was always attracted to their dyes and fabrics. My wardrobe as a kid was always made of silk, because there was so little wool imported into Japan.” She learned from Japanese masters and absorbed all she could about kimono painting, silk dyeing and the subtleties of the Japanese aesthetic. And because her family made frequent trips to Hawai‘i—her father was in the military—the Islands also figured prominently.

Retired as an art professor at William Rainey Harper College (in the state of Illinois university system), Clark, with her husband, Larry, a retired airline executive, did move to Wailea, part-time in the early ’90s and then full-time in 1999.

“This is the most creative, spiritual place for me,” she says, “not just the

(opposite page) photo by jose morales

T

HE DUTCH MASTER Vincent van Gogh is said to have achieved his greatest artistic triumphs after he moved to sun-kissed Provence. Claude Monet, who turned haystacks and water lilies into receptacles of light, established the glorious gardens of Giverny, where he painted prolifically in the open air.

And let’s not forget Georgia O’Keeffe, the icon of light and boundless space, who thrived in the rarefied New Mexico uplands. While these artists were supported by the natural world, there’s one thing they didn’t have: the ocean.

The artists of Wailea do. They can walk along the shoreline and lose themselves in the million blues of the South Maui sea, where sister islands bask.

They can look toward the east and see Haleakalä, whose eruptions flowed to the ocean. A gaze toward the north, and their eyes rest on the West Maui Mountains, a prism of sky and sea. If art is life and life is art, these are pretty good surroundings to behold.

Just ask Sandra Clark, whose glass sculptures generate so much light you’d think they were a power source. Or Ed Lane, whose paintings express the exuberance of a man filled with joy and peace. Or Cathy Torchiana, passionate

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Painting is a second career for Lane, yet he's exhibited in more than 70 art shows, locally and beyond.

“I love the smell of the island, the color, the light, the people.” —ED LANE environment, but also in diversity—diversity in terms of spirituality, culture and philosophy. And of course there’s the huge Asian influence, which, because I grew up in Japan, spoke to me.” Clark says she has done her best work since moving to Maui, including juried shows for the Smithsonian Art Museum, Artists of Hawai‘i and other prestigious venues.

Clark can be found twice a week next to her gleaming display of glass sculptures near the lobby area of Grand Wailea, where she is in the Artists-inResidence program. Her fiber art, on display at NaPua Gallery and a private room in Amasia restaurant, expresses her Asian influences as strongly as the glass reflects her Wailea environment. The fiber scrolls begin as white silk and end up as color-saturated hangings of layers and textures created by stitching, dyeing and cutting.

Japanese and abstract motifs appear in her large, luminous glass plates, suggesting the colors, landscapes and vistas of Maui. Gold, silver, copper, titanium, platinum and other precious metals are applied in a glass-layering technique to create brilliant dimensions of color and reflection. The plates are fired in a kiln at 1,500 degrees F. “Certain colors make me scream, certain colors make me happy, and certain colors make me open-minded,” she says. “Maui has them all. All my colors changed when I moved here—the colors of the landscape, the colors of the ocean, the colors of the sunset.” When she lived in cold, urban Chicago, she says, her work was much darker.

“This is where my body feels good, my mind feels open, and my creative spirit is on fire.”

The Art of Exuberance

“People tell me that my paintings make them happy,” says Ed Lane, standing before a painting aglow with his signature red tree trunk. “I look at that tree, and

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Cathy Torchiana in her Wailea studio

(This page) David Morris's "River Crystal I." (Opposite page) David McKinley with a Margaret Tomkins painting and Lee Kelly sculpture.

that’s what I see: It’s full of life!” So is he, a tanned, exuberant presence whose smile adds even more wattage to the sun-drenched living room, where his wife, Diane, designer of hand-painted silk clothing, sits smiling on the sofa.

Ed Lane’s bold, bright oil paintings line their Wailea home: Maui landscapes in saturated colors, trees with red trunks, Gauguin-esque paintings from their frequent trips to Tahiti, brilliant scenes from the south of France.

When the Lanes moved to Maui 20 years ago following a successful career in advertising, they exchanged the Arizona desert for the Wailea shoreline, and art naturally followed.

“I loved what I did in advertising,” he reflects, “but I wanted to complete my career path as a painter.” After moving to Maui, the first thing he did was drive his Jeep all over the island to do plein air painting. “I painted everything that didn’t move and even some things that did,” he recalls. “After a year, I destroyed almost everything I’d done, because I didn’t think it was very good. And I got more and more serious about my painting.”

The advertising agency he founded celebrated its 50th anniversary not long ago. Meanwhile, the Lanes demonstrate every day that it’s never too late to fulfill

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808 875 1919 | Wailea Town center www.BellaBloomMaui.com

a dream. Paying for his trip by pre-selling paintings, he has done residencies in Hungary, France and the Azores archipelago. His oil paintings are widely collected and exhibited, having appeared in 70 art shows throughout Hawaiâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;i and the mainland. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s endless subject matter here,â&#x20AC;? he offers. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I love the smell of the island, the color, the light, the people. In Upcountry Maui, the light is like Provenceâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;but when you get here, the light is more intense.â&#x20AC;? He captures that intensity partly by painting the canvas with cadmium red before laying on the other colors.

On a typical day in Wailea, he and Diane rise early, walk along the beach, and spend the day on their art. Ed considers this his second career. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I am exuberant in my paintings,â&#x20AC;? he declares. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a grand discharge of energy.â&#x20AC;? Not surprisingly, the motto on his website declares, exuberantly, â&#x20AC;&#x153;The discovery of beauty, the expression of delight, the art of exuberance.â&#x20AC;?

The Art of an Athlete

There are only 52 Life Members of the LPGA Teaching and Club Professional Division, and Cathy Torchiana is one of them. Sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also in the Hall

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“Art was always in my heart, but practicality led me to golf.”

—CATHY TORCHIANA

(Opposite and left) Light floods Torchiana's studio, where her work reflects a love of travel, other cultures and golf.

of Fame of the National Collegiate Golf Coaches Association, which means she’s a life member of the organization. This renowned coach and golfer is the consummate athlete with many talents, not least of which is art.

“This,” she says, pointing to one of her paintings depicting a golf ball’s perspective of a golf green, “sums up the fact that I’m arty and I’m golfy.”

Torchiana has a degree in art from the University of Southern California but initially pursued golf for practical reasons.

“I was always athletic, but in my generation of women, the opportunities were pretty much limited to being a P. E. teacher,” she explains. “Art was always in my heart, but practicality led me to golf. So I teach, teach, teach and play, play, play.” She began teaching golf in California in 1978, a path that eventually brought her to Maui.

As golf coach and assistant athletic director at the University of Southern California, she came to Maui in the early 1990s to help the Maui Trojan Club raise funds for the Maui Arts & Cultural Center. On Maui she met Maynard Torchiana (executive vice-president of Destination Resorts Hawai‘i), and the following year they got married.

“I said, ‘Now I finally get to be me,’” she recalls. “To find a wonderful man to share your life with, and then get to do both my passions, was remarkable.” Her life in Wailea is full: She teaches golf, paints, collects beads, makes jewelry and participates in fundraisers while remaining active in the larger golf community.

Her paintings have been described as whimsical; she calls them “quirky” and “illustrative.” Many of them have a golf theme, but there are the hula dancer’s feet, the still life of paint brushes, the landscapes, portraits and Wailea beaches, as well as the colorful blanket vendor in Mexico.

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INSPIRATION

Art for All Seasons

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GALLERY; COURTESY OF FOUR SEASONS RESORT MAUI AT WAILEA; COURTESY OF KI'I GALLERY.

Opposite, clockwise from top left: Alan Schwartz, #195˝; Dale Chihuly, Pink Seaform˝; Mary Mitsuda, Studio˝; glass art from Kii Gallery.

OF MCKENNA HALLETT. (OPPOSITE PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT) COURTESY OF ALAN SCHWARTZ; COURTESY OF NAPUA

This page, top three: Cathy Detrick’s wearable art incorporates her own hand weavings from luxury fibers; (right) McKenna Hallett’s copper sarong necklace; Fernando Botero,  Woman Smoking a Cigarette.˝

CREATIVITY DOESN'T happen on demand, but powerful, beautiful surroundings don’t hurt in creating art. Artistic imagination thrives in places of light and color—places like South Maui, where Wailea Resort’s galleries, boutiques and artists showcases brim with unique creations.

In The Shops at Wailea and the galleries and boutiques of Wailea Resort, the sheer abundance of artists and galleries makes treasure-hunting an art in itself.

At Grand Wailea, a Waldorf Astoria Resort, Sandra Clark’s glass work glows with light and color. In the resort’s NaPua Gallery, Dale Chihuly is making waves with blown-glass masterpieces ranging from the grand to the fine. His “Ocean Wave Chandelier” appears weightless, yet is 200 pounds—a free-form statement in hand-blown glass. Art critic Barbara Rose described Chihuly as “the greatest living master of the ancient medium of glass,” and at Grand Wailea you’ll see why. With its more than 70-piece art collection, Grand Wailea has the largest corporate art collection in Hawai‘i.

At Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea, the Missoni Home collection brings the Italian designer’s verve to household accessories and accents.

With Dale Zarrella’s sculptures, Charlie Lyon’s palm tree paintings, Alan Schwartz’s paintings on wood and Cathy Detrick’s handwoven art, the tsunami of talent is fierce. Once you enter the lobby between the Jun Kaneko colossal glazed ceramic heads, you will be in an art lover’s Nirvana. As for Missoni, you don’t have to merely admire them from afar—pieces are for sale at 22 Knots, the hotel’s luxury boutique. In the lower lobby, jewelry designer Amy Wakingwolf (also an avid turtle rescue volunteer) appears regularly at the Artists Showcase, along with Charlie Lyon, McKenna Hallett, milliner Emi Azeka and others.

Throughout Wailea, art is large and varied. Fernand Léger bronzes, Mordecai Ardon paintings, Fernando Botero sculptures, Yvonne Cheng mosaics and other masterpieces abound.

Island artists—Shige Yamada, Sean K. L. Browne, Satoru Abe, Herb Kane, Mary Mitsuda and others—show why art thrives and inspires. Grand Wailea’s NaPua Gallery is a vibrant destination, and nearby, the Artists-in-Residence program gathers select local artists to share and discuss their work.

Similar programs are offered at The Fairmont Kea Lani, Maui, where a Dale Zarrella sculpture is an art lover’s magnet, and at Wailea Beach Marriott Resort & Spa, where island artists set up their booths regularly in the lobby and retail areas.

(THIS PAGE, TOP THREE PHOTOS) ©HUMPHREY CHAN; BOTERO STATUE COURTESY OF GRAND WAILEA; NECKLACE COURTESY

Creative finds in Wailea shops & galleries

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shopping

Shops, Galleries and More Hot Shops at Wailea Resorts The Fairmont Kea Lani, Maui 4100 Wailea Alanui 808.875.4100

facial waxing. You can also purchase Aveda hair products, as well as hair accessories, bath products, makeup and jewelry.

CAFFÉ CIAO BAKERY & DELI

For specially prepared picnic baskets and fine gourmet foods, you can’t go wrong with this trendy Italian deli and bakery. Fine imported wines, freshly baked breads, pastries and made-on-Maui products are among the treasures to go.

THE FAIRMONT STORE

This signature store has all you need, from casual resort wear to logo wear for men, women and children; books and music; local artwork and made-on-Maui gifts. A green corner features eco-savvy items and coconut postcards, and agriculturally approved Maui pineapples are available to ship home.

ISLAND SUNSATIONS

Calvin Klein, VIX, Gottex and Trina Turk are among the top names in swimwear and resort wear offered for the entire family. The sun-friendly finds include hair accessories, sarongs, sandals, Havaiana slippers, jewelry and Maui Jim sunglasses.

JUVENAL & CO. HAIR SALON

The top-to-toe offerings include hair styling, manicures, pedicures and

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SPA KEA LANI

Active wear so stylish it can be worn to work, top-of-the-line beauty products, Jane Iredale mineral-based cosmetics, OKA b. shoes, lifestyle books, lean, stretchy Beyond Yoga and OMgirl yoga wear—this is no ordinary spa boutique.

Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea 3900 Wailea Alanui 808.874.8000 22 KNOTS

With fine jewelry, designer exclusives and high-end fashion, this luxury boutique makes a strong sartorial statement. The fashion designer icons—Missoni, Pucci, Lanvin, Stella McCartney and more—add plenty of sparkle to the shopping experience.

CABANA

Chic, comfortable and exclusive Four Seasons logo wear by James Perse is a Cabana signature, along with designer beachwear, apparel, shoes and accessories for

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men, women and kids. Casual luxe reigns, with everything from the classics to the contemporary.

CRUISE

The eye-catching, colorful resort wear and accessories include DIVA, one of swimwear’s most exclusive lines.

HILDGUND JEWELRY

808.874.5800 Beautiful creations by Hildgund, long considered one of Hawai‘i’s premier jewelers.

PORTS

The travel essentials—sundries, logo wear, snacks and gift ideas—are covered in this thoughtful, colorful selection.

GRAND IMAGE BOUTIQUE

Spa Grande’s skincare products, therapeutic massage oils, elixirs and active-wear fill yoga, fitness and beauty needs. Maui’s own ‘Ala Lani and Island Essence lines and Kaua‘i’s Malie are among the beauty-enhancing salts, sprays, scrubs and spa products.

GRAND JEWELS OF WAILEA

TOWN AND COUNTRY MAUI, INC.

808.875.8822 Flowers can make the day, and here’s where you’ll find them: fragrant, fresh and exotic blooms and arrangements. From the lavish to the minimalist, they’re suitable for any occasion.

The Grand Wailea Shops and Galleries 3850 Wailea Alanui 808.875.1234 BEACH & POOL STORE

Water toys, hats, footwear, sun shirts, waterproof cameras and tanning lotions are included in the large selection of fun-friendly supplies.

CAFÉ KULA MARKETPLACE

Whether it’s breakfast, lunch or dinner, Café Kula offers lighter fare with delicious breakfast items and assorted freshly baked pastries, gourmet quiche, sandwiches, salads, ice cream, coffees and desserts.

The estate, vintage, rare and highfashion finds include diamond, platinum and 18k gold jewelry, as well as one-of-a-kind pieces by Norman Silverman Diamonds, Inc. GRAND WAILEA BUSINESS CENTER

You’ll want to unplug during vacation, but for business needs that arise, there’s nothing like highspeed Internet service and a fully equipped business center offering copies, faxes and office equipment rental. Open daily, with shipping to the 50 states.

GRAND WAILEA GIFT SHOP

Gift items from Hawai‘i can be found among the logo wear, souvenirs, sundries and resort accessories, such as beach bags, polo shirts and bathrobes.

GRAND WAILEA MEN'S SHOP

Tommy Bahama, Toes on the Nose, and shirts, shorts, shoes and jackets put the spotlight on men. Whether it’s surf gear, continued on pg. 92

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continued from pg. 91 swimwear, belts, hats or socks, this is designed for the active man with style.

family portraits are among the services offered.

TRADEWINDS BOUTIQUE

You’ll find handmade jewelry, hand-blown art glass and luxurious jewelry of luminous, multi-colored South Seas pearls.

The big names in resort wear— Lilly Pulitzer, Karen Kane, XCVI— are the Tradewinds attention-getters, along with a fine selection of handbags, sandals, accessories and essentials.

NA HOKU

WAILEA BREEZES

Exotic and elegant Na Hoku jewelry is inspired by the beauty and tradition of the Islands. Many of the intricately crafted pieces are enriched with Tahitian, Akoya or freshwater pearls.

It’s a breeze to put your best foot forward with this resort-savvy selection of men’s and women’s footwear.

Island Slipper and the best-selling OluKai are among the handbags, accessories and colorful casuals rounding out the selection.

KI`I GALLERY

NAPUA GALLERY

A Dale Chihuly chandelier joins the original paintings, sculpture, jewelry and fine art items of this gallery, including works by the premier artists of Maui.

WAILEA HEARTS

PINEAPPLE PATCH

Wailea Beach Marriott Resort & Spa

Imaginative toys, books, puzzles and beachwear are among the finds for children. You’ll find everything but the sandcastle, including hats, slippers and sun shirts.

QUIKSILVER

The Roxy and Quiksilver signature is the latest in swimwear, board shorts, logo wear, sunglasses and backpacks for catching the waves or exploring Maui.

RICKY MIA PHOTOGRAPHY

Because vacations and weddings are meant to be remembered, you’ll want those moments captured. Professional photography, film processing, enlargements and

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Upbeat, heart-shaped details and accents add the Brighton signature to the selection of shoes, jewelry, accessories and handbags.

3700 Wailea Alanui 808.879.1922 ACCENTS

A one-stop shop for fun lovers, the shop offers snacks and sundries, beach and sports apparel, accessories, souvenirs and distinctive gifts.

GRANDE'S GEMS

Precious and semi-precious stones, Hawaiian charms, souvenirs and exquisite jewelry add a dash of sparkle to your vacation.

MANDARA SPA

Maui’s Island Essence mango-coconut body wash and Elemis lime-

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ginger scrub are among the finds of this fragrant spa shop. Treatment lines and beauty products uphold the East-West theme.

(from left) ©d.k. samco/shutterstock; ©subbotina anna/shutterstock

Wailea Gateway Center 34 Wailea Gateway Place 808.874.1818 Guava, Gouda & Caviar, Stuey’s Wine Cellar, Aloha Shirt Museum, Sweet Paradise Chocolatier, Maui Memories, Jere’s Fine Jewelry and the hot new shop, Otaheite Hawaii, have got your shopping needs covered. The center is growing, and these retail magnets are making their mark.

Wailea Golf Club PRO SHOP, GOLD AND EMERALD CLUBHOUSE

100 Wailea Golf Club Drive 808.875.7450 Its 14 regional and national awards include designations as one of America’s top shops by Golf World Business and Golf for Women magazines, and the PGA of America named it the national resort Mer-

chandiser of the Year. This is one of the largest pro shops in Hawai‘i and one of the best in the country, with jewelry, hats, handbags, organic made-on-Maui sunscreen, and fashions by the likes of Puma, Hugo Boss, Lilly Pulitzer, Bobby Jones, Ralph Lauren, Helen Kaminsky and other renowned brands.

WAILEA OLD BLUE CLUBHOUSE

120 Kaukahi Street 808.879.2350 Top-of-the-line golf apparel, equipment and accessories are part of The Old Blue’s fully stocked pro shop, but fashionable sportswear and athletic apparel also give a boost to the game.

Wailea Tennis Club PRO SHOP

131 Wailea Ike Place (808) 879-1958 Tennis enthusiasts will find great apparel, equipment, shoes and more at this full-service pro shop.

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The Pleasures of Shopping and Dining If you love to shop but are easily exhausted by the madness that prevails

at malls, it’s time for a new paradigm. Here’s a pleasant change: leisurely shopping, abundant parking, superb service and top-drawer boutiques and restaurants—all within a single 162,000-square-foot complex that perfectly captures the resort experience.

Close to the shoreline in South Maui, The Shops at Wailea is changing the way people shop, dine and spend their vacations. Relaxed shoppers and diners say au revoir to the long lines, elbow-to-elbow crowds, zero parking and deafening sound systems that typically mar the retail experience. There’s leisurely, relaxed dining. And gallery-hopping with ease. Style, too, is redefined. The Shops at Wailea is the ultimate perk in paradise, an open-air, two-story complex of more than 70 galleries, restaurants and shops of exquisite taste.

Located in Wailea Resort, between Grand Wailea and Wailea Beach Marriott Resort & Spa, within minutes of the surrounding hotels and residences, The Shops at Wailea offers generous parking on the north and south sides, convenient and close. International high-fashion icons mingle with ca

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sual, family-owned shops, and eclectic dining choices reward every leaning.

From sushi, steak, pasta and long tropical happy hours to ice cream, snacks and designer coffee, this is a place for lingering.

Here, global giants appear side-by-side with national brands in leisure wear, taking you from the beach to an elegant dinner in one seamless sweep. Island-oriented retailers provide the practical items you need for the beach, picnic and villa.

You can have a manicure on the spot, or you can discover celebrity art or aloha wear while the aroma of freshly baked waffle cones wafts through the atrium area.

Galleries on both levels present art lovers with more than their share of eye candy.

There’s art in many forms here, not just in shopping and dining. When dining, shopping, art, crafts and the spirit of leisure unite in a single premium destination, it’s called the art of gracious living.

3750 Wailea Alanui, 808.891.6770, theshopsatwailea.com, @ShopsAtWailea on Twitter.

Open 9:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily, with WOW! Wailea on Wednesdays, 6:30 to 8 p.m., with entertainment in the lower courtyard.

courtesy of the shops at wailea

Hot shops and cool looks at Maui’s retail magnet

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RETAILERS AND RESTAURANTS

Fashion & Style • BCBGMAXAZRIA • Bottega Veneta • Caché • Coach • Cos Bar • The Enchantress Boutique • Gucci • Guess?

• ILORI • Louis Vuitton • St. John Boutique • White House/Black Market

©phil date/shutterstock

Island & Casual Wear • Banana Republic • Billabong • Blue Ginger/ Blue Ginger Kids • Chico’s • Crazy Shirts • CY Maui/Manikin • Gap/babyGap • Honolua Surf Co. • Karamel Collections • Maui Clothing Company • Maui Waterwear • Moonbow Tropics • Quiksilver • Roxy • Sandal Tree

• Sunglass Hut • T-Shirt Factory • The Walking Company • Tommy Bahama Emporium • Tori Richard

• Dolphin Galleries • Folli Follie • Lambros Goldsmith • Na Hoku • Swarovski Crystal • Tiffany & Co.

Dining & Snacks

Real Estate & Personal Services

• Cheeseburger Island Style • The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf • Honolulu Coffee Co. • KAI Wailea • Lappert’s Ice Cream & Coffee • Longhi’s • Ruth’s Chris Steak House • Tommy Bahama Restaurant & Bar

• Century 21—All Islands • Coldwell Banker Island Properties • Island Sotheby’s International Realty • Maui Dive Shop • Sisters & Co. Boutique & Salon • The Wailea Group • Wailea Realty • Windermere Valley Isle Properties

Art Galleries • The Art of Peter Max • Célébrités Gallery of Fine Art • Dolphin Galleries • Eclectic Image Gallery • Élan Vital Galleries • Ki`i Galleries • Lahaina Galleries

Specialty Gifts & Sundries • ABC Stores • Elephant Walk— A Gallery of Life • Hawaiian Quilt Collection • Martin & MacArthur • Sand People • Whaler’s General Store

Jewelry • Baron & Leeds • Passman • Black Pearl Gallery

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ALOHA MOMENT

Aia i ka ‘opua ke ola: he ola nui, he ola laula, he ola hohonu, he ola ki‘eki‘e Life is in the clouds: great life, broad life, deep life, elevated life.

©PETER LIU

—Mary Kawena Pukui, Ölelo No‘eau

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