PHOTO CREDIT GOTHAAM BOOK 5.5/9PT
Spring • Summer 2017 / iSSue 12
wailea MAGAZINE
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©RACHEL OLSSON
WELCOME TO
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1
CO N TEN TS
/ SPRING
•
SUMMER 2017 / ISSUE 12
54 F E AT U R E S
26 Maui Film Festival
36 How to Wear Nature
54 Life and Tides
A STARSTUDDED EVENT
FISH AS INSPIRATION
SUBMERGED BEAUTY
BY RICK CHATENEVER
BY ILIMA LOOMIS
PHOTOGRAPHY BY ZACH PEZZILLO
28 There’s a Moon
Out Tonight
PHOTOGRAPHY BY ISAAC ARJONILLA
42 Bright and Beautiful
64 Here’s … Amy! WELCOME TO THE HAWAIIAN ROOM
PARSING THE LUNAR CALENDAR
MAUI’S EDIBLE ART
BY RICK CHATENEVER
BY KALEI NU‘UHIWA
BY ILIMA LOOMIS
PHOTOGRAPHY BY DANA EDMUNDS
PHOTOGRAPHY BY KALEI NU‘UHIWA
PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEVE CZERNIAK
AND RACHEL OLSSON
48 Kaho‘olawe,
the Island of Hope STORIES FROM THE SACRED ISLE
BY GRADY TIMMONS
2
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WAILEA GATEWAY CENTER your gateway to great food and fun shops At the top of Wailea Resort
Dining •Shopping •Activities Health & Wellness •Services 10 & 34 Wailea Gateway Place, Wailea, Hawai‘i, 96753
CO N TEN TS
18
80
74 D E PA R T M E N T S
6 Welcome Letter
From Bud Pikrone
18 Faces of Wailea ALOHA IN ACTION
and More
PHOTOGRAPHY BY
THE ART OF SHOPPING
8 Contributors
RACHEL OLSSON
10 Lei of the Land
70 Wailea Dining Guide
GET TING AROUND WAILEA
FARE TO REMEMBER
16 Wailea Hall of Fame
74 The Wailea Lifestyle
THE BUZZ ABOUT TOWN
SUN, FUN AND FRIENDS
BY CARLA TRACY
4
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80 Shops, Galleries
94 Fun in the Sun BEAUTY AND THE BEACH
96 Aloha Moment
ON THE COVER
Zach Pezzillo captured the viola’s vibrancy by lying on the ground at Aina Lani Farms and shooting it at eye level, with other violas as background color. Used mainly as garnish, violas are pleasantly mild in flavor.
The Original Hawaiian Diamond Slipper Collection
An incomparable collection of Hawaiian and Island lifestyle jewelry WAILEA The Shops at Wailea, Upper Level • Grand Wailea Resort KAANAPALI: Whalers Village • Hyatt Regency Maui LAHAINA: 858 Front Street, across from Bubba Gump • 744 Front Street, across from the seawall • Lahaina Cannery KAHULUI: Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center
NaHoku.com • 1-800-260-3912 Best of HONOLULU MAGAZINE 2016
HAWAII’S BEST
People’s Choice Awards The Star Advertiser 2016
HAWAII MAGAZINE Readers’ Choice Award 2017
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ALOHA
MAGAZINE
With winter now behind us, we settle into the delights of spring and summer. We also know that many of our pleasures are seasonless—sunny weather year-round, extraordinary dining experiences daily, a variety of recreational choices and a consistent lifestyle. As our resort residents and returning guests know, Wailea’s weather, activities, accommodations and amenities are gifts we enjoy year-round and remember for years to come. In late fall we welcome the koholā, the adored humpback whales that migrate here annually, and in the spring we bid them aloha. As with the ebb and flow of the tides, these ongoing rhythms are celebrated as a ritual of welcome, aloha and the anticipation of our friends’ return. Year-round, the Coastal Path is both walkway and gathering place. Sunsets are a daily spectacle, and a romantic dinner is never more than minutes away. Our restaurants, a ceaseless celebration of our chefs’ talents, are also a nod to the island’s agricultural and oceanic offerings. From the Maui Film Festival every summer to the biannual Restaurant Week and special gatherings throughout the year, you can always count on something special happening in Wailea. This is a destination in which nature, the environment and modern amenities seamlessly coalesce. The sunrise over Haleakalā never ceases to amaze, especially over the first sip of Maui coffee on a welcoming lānai. We’re also proud of the aloha spirit our guests and residents experience daily, the cultures and traditions of Hawai‘i, such as ‘ukulele, hula, surfing and ocean sports. We also honor our cultural wayfinders and the ocean channels that brought the early navigators to this shore. We hope your time in Wailea is joyful, and that your new memories are like a lei returning to the shore and that you, too, will soon return. In the meantime, we invite you to take this magazine home with you and make it a part of those memories. Mahalo nui loa for sharing your time with us here in Wailea. Kipa hou mai! (Come visit again!)
Frank “Bud” Pikrone General Manager, Wailea Resort Association For more information about Wailea Resort, please visit www.wailearesortassociation.com. 6
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where ADVERTISING & CIRCULATION
Buddy Moore WAILEA PUBLISHER Debbie De Mello ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Glenn Kobayashi HAWAI‘I DIRECTOR
ACCOUNT MANAGERS
Wanda Garcia-Fetherston, Bob Kowal, Donna Kowalczyk CIRCULATION & MARKETING MANAGER
Sidney Louie
| HAWAII EDITORIAL EDITOR
Jocelyn Fujii
Margaret Martin Jane Frey ART DIRECTOR Teri Samuels DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY Isaac Arjonilla WAILEA PHOTO EDITOR Rachel Olsson CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Rick Chatenever, Ilima Loomis, Kalei Nu‘uhiwa, Grady Timmons, Carla Tracy CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Steve Czerniak, Dana Edmunds, Rachel Olsson, Zach Pezzillo SENIOR EDITORIAL DIRECTOR DESIGN DIRECTOR
WAILEA RESORT ASSOCIATION GENERAL MANAGER
Frank “Bud” Pikrone
WAILEA DESTINATION LIAISON
Kathleen Costello
MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP | Executive
Donna W. Kessler CHIEF STRATEGY OFFICER Reab Berry CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER Dennis Kelly VICE PRESIDENT OF OPERATIONS Angela E. Allen PRESIDENT
VICE PRESIDENT, INTERNAL BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT
Karen Rodriguez
MVP | Creative CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER CREATIVE COORDINATOR
Haines Wilkerson Beverly Mandelblatt
MVP | Manufacturing & Technology DIRECTOR OF MANUFACTURING
REGIONAL VICE PRESIDENT OF SALES
Courtney Fuhrmann SENIOR DIGITAL MARKETING MANAGER
Christopher Huber
Donald Horton Tony Thorne-Booth
TECHNICAL OPERATIONS MANAGER
MVP | Production
Kris Miller Jerry Hartman
PUBLICATION SERVICES DIRECTOR PHOTO SCANNING/RETOUCH
MVP | National Sales VICE PRESIDENT, INTEGRATED SALES
Rebekah Valberg E-mails for all of the above : Firstname.lastname@morris.com
where | HAWAII OFFICES 1833 Kalakaua Ave., Suite 810, Honolulu, HI 96815 ph 808.955.2378 fax 808.955.2379
MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS CHAIRMAN
William S. Morris III William S. Morris IV
PRESIDENT AND CEO
Copyright 2017 by Morris Visitor Publications. All rights reserved. This publication may not be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, in whole or in part, without the express prior written permission of the publisher. The publisher assumes no responsibility to any party for the content of any advertisement in this publication, including any errors and omissions therein. By placing an order for an advertisement, the advertiser agrees to indemnify the publisher against any claims relating to the advertisement. Printed in U.S.A. Wailea magazine is produced in cooperation with the Wailea Resort Association.
Genuine Hawaiian Koa Wood Watch Collection from $395
An incomparable collection of Hawaiian and Island lifestyle jewelry WAILEA The Shops at Wailea, Upper Level • Grand Wailea Resort KAANAPALI: Whalers Village • Hyatt Regency Maui LAHAINA: 858 Front Street, across from Bubba Gump • 744 Front Street, across from the seawall • Lahaina Cannery KAHULUI: Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center
NaHoku.com • 1-800-260-3912 Best of HONOLULU MAGAZINE 2016
HAWAII’S BEST
People’s Choice Awards The Star Advertiser 2016
HAWAII MAGAZINE Readers’ Choice Award 2016
CONTRIBUTORS
Dana Edmunds Here's... Amy!, p. 64 As a Hawai‘i-based commercial photographer, Dana shoots for various editorial, advertising and actionsports clients here in Hawai‘i and throughout the world. He describes himself as “happily married, with two kids, a dog and a chicken.” He is a regular contributor to this magazine.
Kalei Nu‘uhiwa
Ilima Loomis
There’s a Moon Out Tonight, p. 28 Kalei is a writer, photographer, PhD Candidate at the University of Waikato in New Zealand and director of the Kükeao-‘Aimalama project, dedicated to climate justice, culture, agriculture and the environment. Passionate about restoring and managing natural resources, she works to empower communities and increase their expertise of the natural world through the Hawaiian lunar calendar. She practices Kilolani, the study of the skies.
How to Wear Nature, p. 36; Bright and Beautiful, p. 42 Ilima Loomis has written about sunspots, dark matter, popsicle chefs, pet psychics and more for publications such as Popular Science, National Geographic Traveler, Nature and Islands. She also authored an award-winning book on Hawaiian cowboys. She wrote about Hawaiian names for the October 2016 issue of this magazine, for which she is a regular contributor.
Steve Czerniak Bright and Beautiful, p. 42 Steve Czerniak is a Honolulu-based photographer who specializes in photographing food and presenting a dish in its best possible light. Known for his unique perspectives on the culinary arts, he began his career photographing people and their pets. He’s a native of Detroit and has lived in Honolulu for 12 years.
Carla Tracy
Zach Pezzillo
Grady Timmons Kaho‘olawe, the Island of Hope, p. 48 Grady Timmons, communications director for The Nature Conservancy of Hawai‘i, has written about Hawai‘i sports and other subjects for numerous local, national and international publications. He is the author of the award-winning book “Waikiki Beachboy,” as well as “A Century of Golf: O‘ahu Country Club,” published in 2007. 8
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Life and Tides, p. 54 Zach grew up on Maui and began winning awards at age 12. Now 23, he’s a graduate of the Rochester Institute of Technology, where he studied scientific photography. His skills, education and knowledge of Maui inspired the photo essay.
Rick Chatenever Movie Night, p. 26; Here’s... Amy!, p. 64 Award-winning journalist, Emmynominated scriptwriter and retired newspaper editor Rick Chatenever has interviewed luminaries and moderated filmmaker panels for the Maui Film Festival since its inception. He writes a weekly newspaper column about Maui and teaches English at UH-Maui College.
Hall of Fame, p. 16 As dining editor of The Maui News, Carla Tracy frequently judges food contests and is a familiar face at Maui events. A former Hawai‘i winner of a Society of Professional Journalism Award for long-form newspaper feature writing, she lives in Central Maui with her husband.
LOCAL FLAVORS EXPRESSED THROUGH CULINARY INNOVATION Sharing food with the people you love is a big part of traditional Hawaiian culture, and our fresh restaurant Ka’ana Kitchen serves up some of Maui’s best dishes family style. So grab your favorite humans, and share farm-to-table cuisine expertly prepared to stimulate your sense of adventure. CALL US at +1 808 243 4750 to book your reservation.
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NAVIGATE
Lei of the Land GETTING AROUND WAILEA
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WAILEA is nestled on the leeward side of South Maui. Only 30 minutes from the Kahului Airport, just south of the town of Kīhei, Wailea is easily accessible by automobile. The main entrances to Wailea’s luxurious beachfront resorts are located along Wailea Alanui. All of Wailea’s resorts, along with golf, tennis, dining and shopping, are within a few minutes’ drive of your resort or condominium. The 1.5-mile Coastal Walk affords easy access to the beachfront resorts. Throughout the year, the Wailea Coastal Path provides the ideal location for watching sunsets. The sun melts into the tranquil waters, where paddlers, swimmers and sailboats are a festive sight and dolphins may leap into view.
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Island sizes and locations not to scale
WAILEA RESORT MAP KEY 1 Fairmont Kea Lani 2 Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea 3 Grand Wailea 4 Ho`olei at Grand Wailea 5 Wailea Beach Resort 6 Hotel Wailea 7 Wailea Beach Villas 8 Wailea Elua Village 9 Palms at Wailea 10 Wailea Ekolu Village 11 Wailea Grand Champions Villas
12 13 14 15 16 17 18
Wailea Ekahi Village The Shops at Wailea Wailea Town Center Wailea Gateway Center Wailea Tennis Club Wailea Blue Clubhouse Wailea Gold & Emerald Clubhouse 19 Andaz Maui Wailea Resort 20 Wailea Residence Inn 21 Keala O Wailea
Resort Hotels Condominiums Shopping Tennis Golf Courses Beaches Snorkeling Coastal Path Beach Parking
(WATERCOLOR) ©MIKE REAGAN
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(MAP) ©EUREKA CARTOGRAPHY, BERKELEY, CA;
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take the colors of Hawaii home
MAUI
Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea OAHU The Kahala Hotel, Halekulani
HAWAII Four Seasons Resort at Hualalai Mauna Kea Beach Hotel Mauna Lani Bay Hotel
Wailea Hall of Fame Legendary diva Mariah Carey was a sight to behold after three soldout O‘ahu concerts as she kissed, rode piggyback and frolicked with her young new backup dancer and boyfriend, Bryan Tanaka, on Wailea Beach. At the Oracle convention at Grand Wailea, Sting stung it with “Fields of Gold,” and Chrissie Hynde and the Pretenders nailed their hits, too. Billionaire Larry Ellison, Oracle CEO, has been a regular in Wailea even though he now owns the neighbor island of Lāna‘i. Amy Hanaiali‘i, Hawai‘i’s top-selling female vocalist of all time, with five Grammy nods and 18 Nā Hōkū Hanohano Awards, has opened The Hawaiian Room at the Grand Wailea. Emmy-winning “Search Hawai‘i: Where Food Meets Culture” is in its second season on KHON-2. Grand Wailea Public Relations Director Yvonne Biegel is a producer of the show, and its hosts are Grand Wailea Chef de Cuisine Michael Lofaro and Hawaiian Cultural Ambassador Kainoa Horcajo. The 2nd Annual BMI Music Songwriters Festival, also hosted by Grand Wailea, had a Nashville twang. Grammy winner Lee Ann Womack and Country Music Association award-winner Eric Church headlined. Other entertainers were troubadour Lukas Nelson (son of Willie Nelson) and Hawaiian maestro Willie K. Also there were Marti Frederikson, writer for Ozzy Osbourne and Aerosmith, and Matchbox Twenty’s Paul Doucette. Andaz Maui at Wailea Resort, where famous chef and PBS TV host Ming Tsai filmed, is the “No.1 Best Resort in Hawaii,” according to Condé Nast Traveler. “Iron Chef ” Masaharu Morimoto celebrated the third anniversary of Morimoto Maui at the resort, and the two culinary luminaries golfed together at the Wailea Blue Course. Other notables teeing off at Wailea golf courses were director Ron Howard; comedian Jo Koy; NBA MVP Stephen Curry with dad and former NBA player Dell Curry; boxing legend Sugar Ray Leonard; politicos Newt Gingrich and Mitt Romney; NFL Atlanta Falcons player Matt Ryan; CBS sportscaster Jim Nantz; former MLB pitcher Greg Maddux; former Hall of Famer Rod Carew and University of Michigan head football coach Jim Harbaugh. Actor Alan Ruck of “Ferris Bueller’s Day Off ” took it easy at Pint & Cork in The Shops at Wailea, a South Maui hotspot. Speaking of 16
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By Carla Tracy
The Shops, nine-time Olympic Gold medalist Carl Lewis was host of the Life Is Sweet benefit for Best Buddies Hawaii. Some of Hawai‘i’s top entertainers perform every third Wednesday of the month at The Shops at Wailea. Keali‘i Reichel and Henry Kapono have headlined at The Shops, Makana performs in April, Paula Fuga is scheduled for May, and Hōkū Zuttermeister in June. Posting on social media from Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea was “Pearl Harbor” star Jamie King in plaid swimsuit, piggybacking on hubby with toddler in tow. Lea Michele of “Glee” was also on social media, cartwheeling and paddleboarding at Four Seasons while declaring, “It’s the best vacation ever.” With 11.5 million Instagram followers and 9.3 million on Vine, Calvin Klein model Cameron Dallas’ selfies from his FS balcony explain why he’s called “teen girl catnip.” Also at Four Seasons Resort Maui, oenophiles gathered at a dinner hosted by Donald Patz of the acclaimed Patz & Hall winery in Sonoma. The partying continued at Residence Inn Maui Wailea, a new Marriott hotel, when owner/developer Bob Olson and brand Vice President Diane Mayer celebrated its grand opening recently. Nearby, the newly renamed Wailea Beach Resort—Marriott, Maui has undergone a $100 million renovation. In the ballroom of Wailea Beach Resort, rock promoter, movie star and author Shep Gordon held his annual New Year’s Eve benefit, where rock legend Dave Mason joined the regular rock star lineup of Alice Cooper and Doobie Brother Pat Simmons and his former bandmate, Michael McDonald. Bob Rock and Weird Al Yankovic were there too, and so were Jim Carrey, Diana Krall and “Wonder Woman” Lynda Carter. Fireworks at midnight took it to the rooftop. Gordon had just returned from a seven-week book tour of “They Call Me Supermensch,” his New York Times bestselling memoir published by the irrepressible Anthony Bourdain. James Beard Award-winning chef and restaurateur Roy Yamaguchi is a welcome addition to Wailea, where his new Humble Market Kitchin has opened in the old MiGrant and Mala location. Former MiGrant chef Sheldon Simeon returned to “Top Chef ” Season 14 as a veteran “Fan Favorite“ and finalist from Season 10. He’s opening a Wailea eatery this year, so stay tuned.
Faces OF WA I L E A
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There are many ways of saying aloha, but there’s nothing like a welcoming smile. Children, aunties and uncles, employees and even artwork are all on hand to greet, uplift and say good-bye. Photography by RACHEL OLSSON
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The faces of Wailea are around every corner, assuring your comfort and ease.
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ESCAPE Make every moment Grand.
3850 Wailea Alanui, Wailea, HI 96753 808.875.1234 ext. 4949 • WWW.GRANDWAILEA.COM/SPA LOCATED AT GRAND WAILEA, A WALDORF ASTORIA RESORT
Maui Clothing Company The Shops at Wailea 808.891.8561 Kamaole Shopping Center 808.879.5545 Kihei Gateway Plaza 808.875.0308 Lahaina Shopping Center 808.667.6090 Lahaina Cannery Mall 808.661.3344
AMAZING FASHIONS FOR YOUR ISLAND LIFESTYLE
Movie Night STARRY NIGHTS AT THE MAUI FILM FESTIVAL By RICK CHATENEVER Photography by RACHEL OLSSON
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For five days
each summer—June 21-25 this year—Wailea goes to the movies. The Maui Film Festival, returning for its 18th season, turns beaches and resorts into backdrops and sets. Pastel twilight and starry night skies add the lighting design for the lively montage of screenings, culinary events, filmmaker panels and late-night parties. This is Maui’s answer to “La La Land,” with screenings at Wailea and the Maui Arts & Cultural Center in Kahului. In Wailea, though, everything is al fresco, dress is tropical chic and beach flip-flops are fine for footwear. The driving range for Wailea’s Gold and Emerald golf courses at the foot of Haleakalā volcano becomes the Celestial Cinema, a screening room for the gods with a 50-foot screen and crystalline Dolby sound. Audiences of thousands get comfortable on blankets and beach chairs; VIPs sit on golf carts in the back. The menu: potential Oscar contenders, quirky indies, great surfing action, environmental, music and animated documentaries and shorts. The Celestial screen also provides close-ups of festival honorees in live tribute interviews before the films. Barry Rivers, the festival’s founder and co-director with his wife, Stella, calls the honorees “luminaries” rather than “stars,” since they “radiate more light than heat.” They range from venerable screen legends to young artists destined for greatness. The festival spotted Jake Gyllenhaal, Zooey Deschanel, Elizabeth Banks, Andrew Garfield and Brie Larson the moment before the Hollywood A-list and Oscar voters took notice. “What this festival clearly shows is an appreciation for film as an art form as opposed to just a pastime,” said last year’s Navigator Award honoree Bryan Cranston. Iconic star Goldie Hawn showed up unannounced to watch her son, Wyatt Russell, accept his Rising Star Award. Rainmaker Award recipient Michael B. Jordan, breakout star of “Fruitvale Station” and “Creed,” had no trouble getting on Maui time. “It seems like everyone I talk to here came for one visit and decided to sell everything and move here,” he said. And, after politely asking if she could “cuss,” Viola Davis—who went on to win a Golden Globe and at press time is an Oscar contender—punctuated a story about her “Fences” director and co-star Denzel Washington with a particularly strong expletive that elicited peals of laughter, followed by a standing ovation, from a crowd of several thousand. There’s a lot of spirit and soul, and as Rivers puts it: To Explore Our Shared Humanity, Spark Visions for Better Tomorrows, Keep Dreams Alive, and Generate Tears of Joy, Compassion and Laughter, Is What We Do and Why We’re Here.
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There’s a Moon Out Tonight... ... and it has many stories to tell
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Story and Photography by KALEI NU‘UHIWA
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Akua
Hoku Mähealani
Hua Möhalu
Kulu Lä‘aukülua
Huna
Lä‘aukükahi ‘Olepau
Lä‘aupau
KAULANA MAHINA
‘Olekükolu
While much of the world follows the solar calendar, the Hawaiians identified and recognized 30 distinct shapes throughout the lunar cycle. In this worldview, virtually all the cycles and events of the natural environment are associated with lunar phases.
‘Olekülua
‘Olekükahi
Küpau
‘Olekükahi
‘Olekülua
‘Olepau
Käloakükahi
Kükolu
Käloakülua
Külua
Käloapau
Kükahi Käne
Hoaka Hilo
(PREVIOUS SPREAD) ©RACHEL OLSSON
It all started with a question during a discussion between two
Muku
Hawaiian elders. They were speaking Hawaiian to one another in the back of a boat transporting participants to the island of Kaho‘olawe, the island prominently visible from Wailea. The occasion was a monthly access trip led by the Protect Kaho‘olawe ‘Ohana, a grassroots organization entrusted with protecting and revitalizing an island that was once used for military bombing practice. The two men were from the eastern side of Maui, and I was a naïve young Hawaiian mother from Pā‘ia who, because my two daughters were enrolled in Hawaiian immersion schools, was just learning to speak Hawaiian. The two elders frequently rode on the transport boat. They admired the scenery and waxed nostalgic about the good old days of Maui, the bountiful fishing in their time and the history of South Maui. On this particular ride, they engaged in a rambunctious conversation about traveling through the ‘Alalākeiki channel between South Maui and Kaho‘olawe. It was an ‘Ole day. My ears only picked out the words “‘a‘ole maika‘i,” which means not good, and “pō ‘Ole,” which refers to ‘Ole moon phases. I wanted so badly to converse with them. Finally I blurted, “Oh, no laila ‘a‘ole maika‘i ka pō ‘Ole?” (“Oh, therefore the ‘Ole phases are not good?”). That was all it took for them to turn toward me and begin a conversation that lasted at least eight years. These two elders thought my question about the moon phases reflected a genuine interest, and they took it upon themselves to speak to me in Hawaiian about the
Mauli
Lono
Hawaiian moon calendar every time they saw me. Frankly, my language skills weren’t the greatest in the early years of our conversations, and there were several times when the explanations were lost due to my limited vocabulary of the Hawaiian language. But these two kūpuna always got my undivided attention, and our exchange on the transport boat opened a chapter in my life that continues to this day. While the rest of the world has its almanacs, the Hawaiians have their lunar calendar, a system uniquely suited to their environment, lifestyle and innate skills. I was fortunate to meet the two elders; they opened the door to what has been a lifelong passion for me. I began turning to books and the Hawaiian language newspapers written by Hawaiian scholars. These sources became a way for me to fill in the blanks, and also to ensure that the wisdom the kūpuna shared with me would not be wasted. In the last 10 years, a movement has spread across the Hawaiian archipelago to revive the traditional Hawaiian practice of keeping time, and also to apply it to the modern world. There are many reasons: the preservation of traditional practices, environmental awareness, conservation and utility. Hawaiians traditionally used the sun, moon and stars to keep track of time, and contrary to popular belief, they were very concerned with it and planned all their work and play around celestial cycles. Most people have heard that the Hawaiians utilized the stars, moon and sun for navigational purposes, as in Mālama Honua, the ongoing worldwide voyage of Hōkūle‘a, Hawai‘i’s voyaging canoe. The voyage is proving to the world that
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KÄNE
KÄLOAPAU
‘OLEKÜLUA
In earlier days, the Käne moon was reserved for ritual and ceremony, with no fishing or farming. Now it's considered excellent for planting.
An especially good time for planting bamboo and sugar cane, and excellent for torch fishing in the evenings, when shellfish and seaweed are exposed by the low tides.
It’s not a good day for planting or fishing, with tides running high, erratic currents and blowing winds.
While the rest of the world has its almanacs, the Hawaiians have their lunar calendar, a system uniquely suited to their environment, lifestyle and innate skills.
HOKU
HUNA
KÜPAU
KÜKAHI
Good for fishing, but at sea and not on shore. And it’s excellent for planting; Hawaiians believe seeds become animated by the full moon.
Huna means hidden, so it’s not a good day for seeking esoteric knowledge. But it’s excellent for night fishing at sea, and for planting gourds and sweet potatoes.
Balmy weather and low afternoon tides make this the final evening that sweet potato and taro can be planted and expected to grow upright.
Good for daylight reef fishing, planting sweet potatoes and trees, and for building foundations for altars, fences and homes.
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the Polynesians were and are capable of crossing the globe without navigational instruments. The reason: The celestial entities consistently rise in the east and set in the west, making them handy directional indicators—but they were also utilized on land for such things as seasonal resource management, political events and religious ceremonies. The stars track time in terms of political governance and religious ceremonies throughout the year. The sun tracks seasonal time in terms of climate expectations, natural cycles and seasonal activities. The moon tracks appropriate daily activities for effective productivity, as well as monthly weather expectations pertinent for survival during natural events and cycles. Traditional timekeeping was a very complex system. One of the traditional terms for the Hawaiian lunar calendar is kaulana mahina (kow-lah-nah mah-hee-nah). In Hawaiian, kaulana means a sequence, appearance or placement of an observed object. Mahina means moon. Together the words denote the sequence of the moon and the practices affiliated with each moon phase. One of the elders jokingly said to me once, Ua hiki mai nā Kū. Kū ka‘ai, kū ka i‘a, kū ka hale, kū ka hana, meaning the Kū phases have arrived. The edible plants are revealed, the fish are running, houses are erected, the work is suitable. It’s a proverb that expresses how busy the work can be during the Kū phases, but it’s also a retort for someone who is running around like a chicken without a head trying unsuccessfully to get work done. The word kū in Hawaiian also means to stop. The kaulana mahina assisted Hawaiians in understanding weather patterns, growth patterns and monthly climate expectations. Virtually all the cycles and events pertaining to the natural environment were associated with lunar phases, months and annual seasons. Hawaiians recognized 30 distinct shapes throughout the lunation of the moon. Each moon phase was given a name specific to its shape. The 30 phases comprised a single lunar month, and the moon calendar determined when fishing, farming, healing, praying, maintenance and managing resources were to occur. Understanding when a moon phase will rise or set assists fishermen, healers and farmers in conducting their daily tasks and determining the kind of work to be done for each day or night. The goal: to exert the least amount of effort to achieve maximum productivity. It’s known that the moon pushes and pulls the ocean tides. While Hawai‘i’s tidal ebb and flow may not be as dramatic as in other parts of the world, understanding their cycles and timing is helpful in fishing and gathering. The brighter the moon, the larger the tidal difference, a feature that also helps determine which fish species are out and about. Red, omnivorous, large-eyed fish, for example, like to feed on seaweed during full-moon, high-tide evenings. They feed on the seaweed that is normally inacces34
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sible to them at any other time of the lunar month. Capitalizing on this phenomenon, savvy fishermen will fish along the reefs under the light of the full moon. Farming is similarly affected: The moon affects how sap moves within plants, which is helpful in planting, mulching and harvesting from one phase to the next. Because ‘ole means “without” or “none,” moon phases with the name ‘ole were reserved for mulching, weeding, pruning or maintaining gear. An ‘ole moon phase means it will be unproductive in both fishing and farming. ‘Ole phases also signal indecisive tides, with strong currents that make it virtually impossible for nets and lines to remain steady in the ocean. Because hua means fruit, the moon phase named Hua is a time for planting, and phases named Lā‘au (meaning tree, plant, wood) are a time to gather herbs for herbal medicine and healing. In Lā‘au phases, it’s believed that the leaves of the plants are filled with sap, making their healing properties potent. Lunar knowledge has multiple other practical applications. The first phase of the moon, named Hilo, rises shortly after the sun. Hoaka means crescent and indicates the first phase that is seen right after the sun has set. Kūkahi, Kūlua, Kūkolu and Kūpau follow and are very productive for all kinds of work. These first six phases cause the tides to become extremely low in the morning, conditions ideal for shoreline gathering. Next come ‘Olekūkahi, ‘Olekūlua, ‘Olekūkolu and ‘Olepau, the unproductive ‘Ole days. As noted, these phases are better for maintenance than for active gathering. There’s much more—the Huna days, when things hide; the Mōhalu phase of blooming; and the Hua phase, a time to plant fruiting trees. Akua, Hoku, Māhealani and Kulu are the full-moon phases that Hawaiians considered extremely productive for farming, fishing and nocturnal activities associated with rituals and ceremonies. For night fishing, Lā‘aukūkahi, Lā‘aukūlua and Lā‘aupau are productive along the shoreline, and for collecting medicine and planting banana trees. On the other hand, the subsequent phases, ‘Olekūkahi, ‘Olekūlua and ‘Olepau, are ‘Ole phases, unproductive for fishing, farming and healing. The next three phases—Kāloakūkahi, Kāloakūlua and Kāloapau—are based on the word kāloa, which means long. These are phases the Hawaiians considered optimal for such things as gathering fibers with which to fashion rope and bark to make kapa for clothing. It was also the time when the stinging box jellyfish and bright blue Portuguese-man-of-war drift on the strong tides moving along the coastline. The last four phases of the lunar sequence, Kāne, Lono, Mauli and Muku, are each named after the Hawaiian gods responsible for life, agriculture and health, and they are all beneficial for planting and fishing. We owe much to the elders who, relying on the land and ocean for sustenance, identified and devised this system, practiced it diligently and passed it on.
‘Ole moon phases are a time of mulching, weeding, pruning and nurturance in preparation for future harvests.
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How to Wear Nature THE HAWAIIAN BIGEYE AND OTHER WONDERS, IN TWO DIMENSIONS Story by ILIMA LOOMIS Photography by ISAAC ARJONILLA
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(THIS PAGE AND PREVIOUS PAGE) ©JAMIE MAKASOBE/KEALOPIKO
in Australia and had met up with a large group of aboriginals and Polynesians. Because of her fair skin, she didn’t quite fit in, and one man in particular was openly skeptical that she was really from Hawai‘i. Then he saw her cool off in a waterfall and expertly wrap herself in her trusty pareu. “He said, ‘Oh—now I know you’re an islander,’” she recalls. Made of nothing more than a large, rectangular piece of cloth, a pareu is as simple and versatile as a garment can be. No wonder, then, that it has been the most quintessential piece of clothing across Hawai‘i and Polynesia for centuries. “It’s just a piece of fabric, but it can be worn in a hundred different ways,” Bakutis says. “It’s a scarf, it’s a skirt, it’s a bag, it’s pants—you can wear your baby on your back with it.” Bakutis is co-founder of Kealopiko, a Moloka‘i-based clothing company known for colorful, modern designs inspired by native plants and animals. Although the brand gained attention for its T-shirts and knitwear, Kealopiko’s eye-catching pareu have been among its bestselling items since it launched nine years ago. That’s not an accident, she says. The partners noticed that many pareu sold in Hawai‘i were actually being imported from places like Tahiti and Bali. “We started making pareu like crazy,” she says. At first Bakutis and her partners made each one-of-a-kind pareu by hand, turning out 50 or 100 at a time. “The three of us would go down to a fishpond or someplace that had enough space to hang out tons of line,” she says. “We’d handdye the fabric, hang it up, print it, and do it all in one day.” Soon the beautiful wraps became so popular that they couldn’t keep up with demand. The partners began screening their designs. “Now we’re making a thousand at a time,” she says. One popular print highlights the “piko,” or the opening at the center of a fishnet. “When we created that design we weren’t looking to highlight that part of the net, but I think
it is a really beautiful concept,” says cofounder Hina Kneubuhl. To Native Hawaiians, she notes, the piko often refers to a point of opening that also serves as a literal or symbolic connection to something larger than oneself—it’s often used to describe the belly button, for example. It’s also an oblique reference to the name of the clothing line. “Kealopiko” refers to the tender underbelly of a fish. “It’s something that’s really choice, really ono, really prized, and we wanted people to have that response to our clothing,” Kneubuhl says. Bakutis isn’t surprised that the pareu have taken off. “It represents us as a people,” she says. “It’s just something that is very, very Pacific-based, island-based. It’s the piece of fabric that connects us.”
PHOTO CREDIT GOTHAAM BOOK 5.5/9PT
Ane Bakutis was camping
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PHOTO CREDIT GOTHAAM BOOK 5.5/9PT
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PHOTO CREDIT GOTHAAM BOOK 5.5/9PT
(RIGHT) ©STEVE CZERNIAK
To Native Hawaiians, the piko often refers to a point of opening that also serves as a literal or symbolic connection to something larger than oneself. With her master’s degree in botany from the University of Hawai‘i, Bakutis was working as a botanist for the Plant Extinction Prevention Program of Hawai‘i. With her friends Hina Kneubuhl and Jamie Makasobe, she observed that there were very few native plants represented in island-made clothing. “A lot of times we’ll see tropical flowers like torch ginger and plumeria, but these are not endemic to Hawai‘i,” she observed. The three decided to launch their own clothing line to celebrate and raise awareness about native plants, animals and culture. Kneubuhl credits designer Sig Zane with pioneering
the use of native species in clothing design, and for creating an appetite for more authentic Hawaiian-inspired prints. But where Zane tends to celebrate the islands’ most iconic native plants and animals, the designers of Kealopiko prefer to highlight lesser-known species, such as the ‘āweoweo. The red, nocturnal bug-eyed fish, also called the Hawaiian bigeye, inspired one of her favorite recent designs. Each garment includes an educational tag to provide information about the species being showcased, as well as its significance in Hawaiian culture. The designers opened their first store, at South Shore Market in Honolulu, last November. Bakutis says it has been rewarding to see how high a demand there is for authentic native designs that promote conservation. “If you know about the ‘āweoweo fish, you’re going to want to protect it,” Bakutis says. “So many of our Hawaiian plants and animals have already been lost, and because nobody knows, nobody cares. But if they know, then they can care.”
From left, Kealopiko partners Ane Bakutis, Jamie Makasobe and Hina Kneubuhl enjoy a moment under the palm fronds.
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Bright and Beautiful MICROGREENS ARE THE NEW, BOLD CULINARY COUTURE.
Story by ILIMA LOOMIS Photography by STEVE CZERNIAK
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Spagos Thai seafood and pineapple-coconut red curry with mahimahi, opakapaka, onaga, kaffir lime, Thai basil and green papaya salad.
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I’m tromping
Baskets of flowers are headed for Maui’s finest restaurants. (Opposite page) Mike McCoy of Aina Lani Farms tends to his flavor-packed rows of flowers and microgreens.
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through the drizzle on one of Kula’s rare soggy days. Bedecked in shorts, T-shirt and knee-high rubber boots, farmer Michael McCoy pauses beside a red-hued bush and pulls off a leaf. “Try that,” he offers. I take the proffered greenery—actually, it’s brilliant scarlet—and give it a tentative nibble. It makes me pucker and it’s pleasingly tart. I pop the rest of the crunchy leaf into my mouth. “Hibiscus,” McCoy says with a smile. He hands me one of the flower’s delicate petals to try next. One of the first farms on Maui to grow microgreens and edible flowers, McCoy’s Aina Lani Farms is teeming with tiny, tasty, pretty things. Between the tidy palettes of sprouts and neat rows of marigolds and pansies, dozens of one-offs and interlopers squeeze in. A passionflower vine snakes its tendrils down the side of a building. An allspice tree opens its branches to a flitting mockingbird. Shiso pops up alongside a row of violas. Nasturtiums crawl over everything. “We keep trying to find new things," he says. “I have a lot of faithful chefs.” Michael Lofaro, chef de cuisine of Humuhumunukunukuapua‘a at the Grand Wailea, a Waldorf Astoria Resort, is one of the faithful. Lofaro has been sourcing microgreens and flowers from McCoy since he first began growing them almost 20 years ago. “When you first see microgreens, you say, ‘Oh wow, this is cool, I could just splatter a plate with them.’ You think of it as more of a garnish as opposed to an important component of the dish,” Lofaro says. “For me, it’s evolved. It went from being something used as a garnish to actually incorporating flavor with the look at the same time.” Lofaro created one dish that uses nasturtium leaves for a salsa verde, then complements the sauce with nasturtium flowers on the plate. “It’s just one of those flavors that you can’t re-create with anything else,” he says. “It’s so subtle and aromatic.” McCoy moved to Maui in 1987 and had tried different businesses when he began growing produce on his Kula property. The property is surrounded by white-fenced gentleman farms in an agricultural subdivision where few property owners did more with the land than plant citrus trees or pasture a few goats. McCoy soon realized that farming two acres was not only possible, it was profitable. McCoy had been selling herbs and vegetables to wholesalers when a friend and local chef asked if he’d tried microgreens. Intrigued, McCoy decided to start with a crop of microlettuce. “It was terrible,” he laughs. “Lettuce is tasteless, really.” Soon he realized that big flavor would be the secret to micro success. He tried basil and found that chefs loved the tiny but powerful greens. Herbs like cilantro and arugula soon followed, and today Aina Lani Farms has nearly 20 microgreens in regular rotation, including lemon balm, watercress, chervil, fennel, mizuna and amaranth. “They’re sexy,” McCoy says. “For a chef, it adds colors to a plate. It adds flavor that you don’t have to do anything with, because it’s fresh. Plus, they’re super nutritious.” While the growing time depends on the plant, the weather and the time of year, it takes between 10 days and a month for the microgreens to go from seed to harvest. Workers carefully seed each nine-by-nine-inch flat, then slide them into the greenhouse. The flats are slowly pushed forward as new flats are added, making the greenhouse table look a bit like a brown-to-green patchwork quilt interspersed with a few bright squares of red and purple. During the brief growing period, McCoy will keep a close eye on the greens and make sure they stay wet enough to grow. For the most part, though, it’s hands off. “The less we touch them the better, because they’re pretty delicate,” he says. MiJin Kang, chef de cuisine at Ka‘ana Kitchen at the Andaz Maui Wailea Resort, uses a variety of microgreens in her dishes. Aside from the “micromix” that goes into salads (a blend of more
Flowers are a “wow” garnish that can get diners buzzing.
Greenhouses and flats protect the delicate microgreens. (Opposite page) The Restaurant at Hotel Wailea’s colorful kampachi crudo with avocado purée, green papaya and mandala-like slices of fresh radish.
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neutral-flavored seasonal greens and flowers), she incorporates microwatercress into a compressed watermelon salad. She also uses corn shoots in a fish entrée that is made with fresh Kula corn. “We always try to marry the garnish with a flavor that will go with something on the plate,” she says. “The corn shoot is a cute little leaf, very, very packed with sweet corn flavor.” While microgreens have become a familiar, even ubiquitous, item on the plate, edible flowers are a “wow” garnish that can get diners buzzing about a meal. Their brilliant colors, she says, can also be used to brighten up a monochromatic dish. Edible flowers, she says, are beautiful and unusual, “something they’ve never seen.” McCoy was an early believer in edible flowers—he was already growing marigolds on the farm, and nasturtiums seemed to be omnipresent in Kula. Around the farm, when herbs like shiso, basil and cilantro escaped from the greenhouses and sprouted up here and there, McCoy began collecting the flowers after they went to seed. “They’re even more sexy—they’re beautiful,” he says. “But a lot of people didn’t know you could eat the flowers.” In fact, it took some time to get his customers on board. Initially the chefs were uninterested in the flowers or unsure of what to do with them, but eventually they came around. Today McCoy sells boxes of seasonal flowers, such as borage, begonias, bachelor buttons, violas, firestix, sweet William, alyssum, marigold and nasturtiums, along with a few boxes of leaves that one chef transforms into pesto. “I’ve been pushing them for a while, but the last couple of years is when they really took off,” he says. “Chefs see it’s one more tool they can use on the plate.” Lofaro is one of his converts. “For me, putting edible flowers on a plate brings a flavor you could never re-create, especially if the flowers are super fragrant,” he says. “There’s no other way to get that subtle, beautiful aroma.” He makes a watermelon and goat cheese salad with a rosewater gastrique (a caramelized sugar-vinegar flavoring) and sometimes incorporates fragrant flowers into a syrup or infusion. “It plays a key role in the dish,” he says. “You can’t put your finger on it, but it’s like, ‘What the heck is that, there’s something about this.’ It’s kind of the mystery ingredient.” What’s next for McCoy? Over time, he’s replaced some flower beds with trees—spices like allspice, clove and curry leaf, along with Meyer lemons and exotic citrus like yuzu, a fruit chefs covet for its zest and scant yield of juice. Yuzu can sell for as much as $70 a pint. And a few years ago, he inherited a handful of hives from a friend and decided to try his hand at beekeeping. McCoy likes having the pollinators nearby, and apparently the feeling is mutual. The honey from his well-fed bees won “Best of Show” and took first place in the liquid honey category at the 2016 Hawaiian Natural Honey Challenge, the state’s biggest honey competition. It also won awards in 2015. “The flavor is really complex because of all the flowers we have here,” he says. He hopes to expand his honey production in the coming years. But of all the things he’s enjoyed watching grow over the past decades, his farm might be at the top of the list. Today herbs, flowers and produce from Aina Lani Farms are on the menu at the top restaurants across Maui, and the operation employs six part-time workers. “We could produce even more—I don’t have enough stuff to sell,” he says. “I wanted to be able to prove that you can make a living on two acres, and we’ve more than done that. It’s phenomenal.”
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Kaho‘olawe, the Island of Hope IT'S SMALL, SACRED AND PROFOUND Story by GRADY TIMMONS
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“It’s a highly symbolic place for many Hawaiians, and one that’s treated with reverence.”
©PF BENTLEY/HONOLULU CIVIL BEAT
In 1997,
Sam ‘Ohu Gon, a trained chanter and the senior scientist and cultural advisor for the Hawai‘i Nature Conservancy, traveled to Kaho‘olawe to participate in planning meetings for the island’s restoration. One morning at camp, he awoke early and walked to the top of a nearby hill to present a chant to the arriving day. “As I stood offering the chant, I could see dark shapes circling in the air above me,” he says. “At first I couldn’t make out what the shapes were, but then I realized they were pueo, the Hawaiian owl. Four of them had flown from the nearby pili grasslands toward the sound of my voice. It was everything I could do just to finish. Afterwards I stood there, awestruck, as the pueo continued to circle around me, their circles growing wider and wider until they disappeared into the distance.” Gon returned to camp in silence. As a scientist, he knew that pueo are birds of the dry lowland, active at dawn and dusk. Nevertheless, what he had witnessed was highly unusual, indeed remarkable, and it reinforced in him the sense that Kaho‘olawe is a special, and a sacred, place. “It’s a highly symbolic place for many Hawaiians, and one that’s treated with reverence,” he says. “When you go there with Hawaiians, it often becomes very contemplative. You’ll see them off by themselves, thinking about the island’s history, the destruction that’s occurred there, and what its restoration means to them.” Originally called “Kanaloa” after the Hawaiian god of the sea, Kaho‘olawe is the smallest of the eight major Hawaiian Islands and one of four islands that make up the County of Maui. It is the closest of the main islands to Wailea, rising out of the ocean to the southwest, across the ‘Alalākeiki Channel. Kaho‘olawe is so small—11 miles long, 6 miles wide, an area of 45 square miles—that in ancient times it was an ahupua‘a, or land division, of the district of Honua‘ula on Maui, to which the lands of Wailea also belonged. Kaho‘olawe once sustained a small but thriving population, with most settlements located along the coast. Although there were recorded springs, it was a dry island, existing at the edge of East Maui’s Haleakalā rain shadow. Its highest point, a 1,483-foot summit named Pu‘u Moa‘ulanui, wasn’t high enough to sow much moisture from passing clouds.
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(Previous spread) The view from Pu‘u Moa‘ulanui, the island’s highest point. (This page, from left) A stone carved with petroglyphs; two men check seeded pili grass bales that collect soil and moisture; and a white plate donated by Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea to trap soil and attract dew. (Opposite page) An altar at the crest of Pu‘u Moa‘ulaiki. 50
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(THIS PAGE CENTER AND OPPOSITE PAGE) ©ANDREW WRIGHT
Kaulukukui enrolled in law school in 1995, five years after the bombing ended. Today she works alongside Gon at The Nature Conservancy, serving as its director of land protection. Looking back, she says, “I like to think my letter to the President had something to do with stopping the bombing. Writing to him is my earliest memory of being inspired and moved to conserve something.” In 1994, the Navy returned Kaho‘olawe to the State of Hawai‘i and agreed to pay $400 million in clean-up costs, including $44 million to establish the Kaho‘olawe Island Reserve Commission. The KIRC, as it’s called, is the agency charged with stewarding the reserve until it can be returned to a sovereign Hawaiian entity. Funding for the Navy’s clean-up lasted a decade. During that time, contractors cleared unexploded ordnance from 75 percent of its 28,800 acres. Of that, 10 percent, or 2,650 acres, was cleared to a depth of four feet. The rest was surface swept. Almost 7,000 acres were not cleared and remain littered with munitions. Reforesting Kaho‘olawe has been the job of the KIRC and its restoration ecologist, Paul Higashino. His unenviable task is to revive a barren, windswept landscape that receives little rain and loses almost 2 million tons of topsoil to the ocean each year. During a 20-year tenure, Higashino has overseen the planting of some 200,000 native trees and shrubs. Early on, the survival rate was just 5 to10 percent, he says. But after a half-a-million-gallon water catchment and irrigation system was installed, that figure is now between 80 to 90 percent. Higashino’s greater challenge has been revegetating the vast areas that were only surface cleared, where he can’t dig or disturb the soil for fear of setting off underlying ordnance. It’s a vexing problem, one that requires creative, out-of-the-box thinking. He has flown in bales of native pili grass from Moloka‘i, placed them on hardpan within fenced exclosures, and seeded them. Windblown soil then collects in the bales, where a little rain brings forth life. He has removed invasive, water-sucking kiawe (mesquite) trees that were introduced during the ranching era and is making wood chips from the trees. The chips in burlap bags are seeded and spread across the landscape. “Anything organic that will break down, we rip it up and place it in bags across the island,” he says. “We put the bags in little ditches and gullies where they can catch the
(THIS PAGE FAR LEFT AND RIGHT) ©PF BENTLEY/HONOLULU CIVIL BEAT;
Yet archaeological evidence confirms that Kaho‘olawe had a rich cover of native dryland forest and was home to a famous adze quarry whose adzes were traded across thousands of miles to other Pacific islands. It also served as a pu‘uhonua, or sanctuary, for those seeking refuge and healing. The island was best known, however, for its fishing resources and as a training center for celestial navigation and oceanic voyaging. Kaho‘olawe’s western tip and outlying channel are called Kealaikahiki—the pathway to Tahiti—and from its summit, one can observe conditions in all the channels and see where the stars are rising and setting relative to the southern sky. Western contact dramatically altered Kaho‘olawe. In 1793, explorer George Vancouver introduced goats, which quickly multiplied and denuded the landscape. Thereafter, the island was used briefly as a penal colony, then for cattle and sheep ranching before being transferred in 1941 to the U.S. Navy for use as a bombing range. The Navy’s bombing continued unabated until 1976, when a group of Hawaiian activists known as the Protect Kaho‘olawe ‘Ohana set out to stop it. The PKO occupied the island and then challenged the Navy in federal court, eventually winning a protracted legal battle. In 1990, almost 50 years after it began, President George H.W. Bush halted the destruction. Today, that victory still resonates with native Hawaiians. The 1970s marked the beginning of the Hawaiian Renaissance, a cultural and political revival that embraced everything from music and language to oceanic voyaging, indigenous rights and the concept of aloha ‘āina, or love of the land. Jody Kaulukukui remembers it well. In 1977, at the age of five, she watched the bombing of Kaho‘olawe on her family’s 12-inch television set. She was so upset that she wrote to President Jimmy Carter and asked him to stop it. For weeks she checked the mailbox daily, hoping for a response. Two months later, a letter came from the President saying he would look into it. “And then I waited for the bombing to stop. And waited. When I was 11, I decided I needed to become a lawyer to get things moving,” she says. “After all, I reasoned, messages from lawyers must carry more weight than those from a five-year-old.”
“When I’m on Kaho‘olawe, I often feel the presence of our ancestors.” —KEVIN GAVAGAN
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(Above) An irrigation line encourages new vegetation. (Opposite page) An offering on Moa‘ulaiki, the second highest peak on the island. 52
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(FROM LEFT) ©HAWKINS BIGGINS; ©PF BENTLEY/HONOLULU CIVIL BEAT
soil and hopefully hold water for a half day or longer to give that seedling an edge.” Restoration efforts on Kaho‘olawe rely heavily on volunteers. Annual participation was once as high as 1,000, but that number has been sharply reduced now that the $44 million in federal funding has been spent and the KIRC depends upon state support. Higashino says of the volunteers, “The island picks the people.” One of those it has chosen is Kevin Gavagan, landscape manager at the Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea. Gavagan, whose wife works for the KIRC, began leading hotel volunteer trips to Kaho‘olawe in 2011 as part of the company’s 50th anniversary “Plant 10 Million Trees” campaign. Since then, he has continued to take 15 to 20 volunteers to the island each year. The Four Seasons Resort Maui picks up the cost of food, fuel and transportation and donates 2,000 to 3,000 trees annually to the restoration effort. For Gavagan, the value of the volunteer trips goes beyond planting trees. Of part-Hawaiian ethnicity, he was raised on Maui and says the connection is personal. “When I am on Kaho‘olawe, I often feel the presence of our ancestors … a sense of being with them and the things they cared about,” he says. Ravaged by 200 years of goats, 150 years of cattle and sheep and 50 years of bombing, Kaho‘olawe is a work in progress. Its restoration is likely to take as long as its destruction. But when Gavagan sees that a native plant he put in the ground is flourishing, or when he dives into the reserve’s protected nearshore and sees the reefs recovering and teeming with life, it gives him hope. “I think Kaho‘olawe has a lot to teach us about conservation,” he says. “There’s a sensibility that awakens in me when I go there, a feeling of responsibility, of kuleana, to restore the land, to put my hands on the island and heal it. There is a lot of purpose in that.”
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PHOTO CREDIT GOTHAAM BOOK 5.5/9PT
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Life and Tides
THE MYSTERIOUS (AND TINY) CREATURES OF THE SHALLOWS Photography by ZACH PEZZILLO
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They are dancers in the dark. Delicate and ethereal, they are the jellyfish, limpets, shells, crabs, anemones, flatworms, bubble shells and other denizens of Wailea,s tide pools and offshore shallows. Photographer Zach Pezzillo collected these specimens, photographed them against a black background, and returned them to their habitat. (Preceding page) Box Jellyfish. (This page) ‘Opihi.
‘INA‘ULA ROCK-BORING URCHIN
They’re beautiful and may look delicate, but they’re strong and can bore through rock.
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J E L LY F I S H A N D C R A B S
(This page) An unknown jellyfish. (Opposite page: Clockwise from top left) The Long Spined Swimming Crab, Fireworm, Spiny Brittle Star, Hermit Crab with sea anemones on its shell, Flatworm, unknown shrimp, Paper Bubble Shell, Swollen Bubble Shell and unknown jellyfish at center.
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G O L D R I M F L AT W O R M
Found in Hawai‘i and the Indo-Pacific, it can grow up to 1.5 inches. 60
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We may not see them but they’re there, the untold forms and species of marine life that thrive in the flats, tide pools and niches of the South Maui shoreline. The Goldrim Flatworm is just one of the diverse, multi-colored showpieces hidden in the sand-and-lava habitat.
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BEAUTY AND GRACE, BUT BEST SEEN AND NOT TOUCHED.
B O X J E L LY F I S H
This unidentified Box Jellyfish is as graceful as a ballerina but is likely highly toxic.
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Here’s... Amy! THE MAUI STAR OPENS A SHOW AT THE HAWAIIAN ROOM AT GRAND WAILEA BEFORE SHE WELCOMES YOU to her dazzling new
showplace, the Hawaiian Room at Grand Wailea, a Waldorf Astoria Resort, Amy Hanaiali‘i Gilliom has a story to tell. A five-time Grammy nominee and winner of 18 Nā Hōkū Hanohano Awards (the Islands’ version of the Grammys), the Maui native is one of Hawai‘i’s top female vocalists and stands among the greats of all time. As if her classically trained voice, deep island roots and extensive background in musical theater weren’t enough, she’s also the spokesperson for the eponymous, Napa-based Hanaiali‘i wines. Her new show-
room unites all these elements—the music, her talents, her wines—and wraps them up in a brilliant homage to her grandmother, Jennie Napua Wood. Wood was one of the original Royal Hawaiian Girls, the hula dancers at Waikīkī’s Royal Hawaiian Hotel in the 1930s. “One night the general manager of Manhattan’s Lexington Hotel came in to see their show,” explained Gilliom. “He asked if they would come to his hotel and open a room there. And so the three female hula dancers went, along with Uncle Ray Kinney’s orchestra, and opened the Hawaiian Room.”
Story by RICK CHATENEVER Photography by DANA EDMUNDS AND RACHEL OLSSON
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PHOTO CREDIT GOTHAAM BOOK 5.5/9PT
The show ran for 60 years, selling out seven times a week. “All the greats hung out in that room—Clark Gable, Billie Holiday, Doris Duke …” The Hawaiian Room offered a glimpse of paradise in the gray streets of Manhattan, she said, “beautiful hula dancers, beautiful bodies and fabulous music.” Over time, said Gilliom, “The band morphed into being half Hawaiian, half the greatest players in New York.” More great players came to listen. Among them was Lloyd B. Gilliom, a trumpeter with Sammy Kaye, the Dorsey Brothers and other big bands of the era. “He would sneak down to the Hawaiian Room and watch my grandmother’s steel guitar player because he loved the steel guitar. I have a clip of a movie with him playing with Sammy Kaye, and he’s playing steel guitar and first trumpet.” It didn’t take long for Lloyd to shift his attention to the exotic Polynesian dancer/choreographer who mixed comedy hula, like her signature “Cockeyed Mayor of Kaunakakai,” with sultrier numbers. But how could he get her to respond? He got help from an unexpected Cupid. Famed gossip columnist Walter Winchell “loved the Hawaiian girls,” said Gilliom. “He was always writing about them—how many mai tais they sold in the Hawaiian Room, or, if they were telling stories with their hands, what are they telling?” When Gilliom’s grandmother contracted the blood disease septicemia but couldn’t get home in the aftermath of Pearl Harbor, Winchell wrote a column about it. “He wrote that Napua was sick and needed a blood transfusion. So my grandfather got it in his mind that this was how he was going to hook up with her. He went down to Queen’s Hospital (in New York) and donated his blood. Two weeks later they were married.” Her grandmother’s career stretched from the Olsen and Johnson musical “Hellzapoppin’” on Broadway to Hollywood, where she opened a hula school across the street from Grauman’s Chinese Theatre. Besides appearing on the nationally broadcast “Harry Owens Show” on TV, she choreographed countless movies and TV shows from the ’40s to the ’60s that had anything to do with Hawai‘i. Decades later, when Gilliom and her older brothers, Timi and Eric, were growing up in Kīhei, their grandmother lived nearby. “I’m a Kīhei girl,” says Gilliom. “My dad used to run the old Kīhei 76. Back before those hotels were built, my first job was pumping gas. “Grandma lived across from the Mana Kai, where we all did hula. And she had two 40-foot containers of costumes from Hollywood, so when you went to her house it was like all these fake palm trees and cellophane skirts and the set pieces from all of the shows she had ever been in.”
The die was cast, and music prevailed. “My brother and I had a band,” Gilliom continued, “and I was already playing drums at six years old. We played every instrument and just tortured our parents—violin, electric guitar, flute, drums …” Gilliom earned her bachelor’s degree from the United States International University–School of Performing and Visual Arts in San Diego, then came home in the early ’90s, still aspiring to musical theater. She played Evita in 1991 and reprised the role in 2015 on island stages. Her grandmother, however, whom Gilliom described as the tomboy, rascal type, had something else in mind. “It’s great that you’re doing all that musical theater, ‘Hello Dolly’ stuff, but I think maybe you can do something a little bit different,” she told Gilliom. “Maybe you can take everything you ever learned, all your classical training, and put it toward something you want to do musically.” Gillom landed a gig on the other side of the island, at the Anuenue Room of The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, where Yvonne Biegel was then director of public relations. When Biegel became the director of public relations at Grand Wailea, a Waldorf Astoria Resort, she convinced Gilliom to reopen the resort’s long dormant nightclub space in Wailea. “Amy’s pot of gold at one end of the rainbow was the Anuenue Room, where she got her vocal chords,” adds The Ritz-Carlton’s beloved cultural adviser, Clifford Nae‘ole. “Anuenue” is the Hawaiian word for rainbow, Nae‘ole noted. “Now she’s at the other end, spanning all kinds of music. It’s gone from being a job to being a way of life … and learning the values of her grandmother.” If Manhattan’s Hawaiian Room was a sign of its times, Gilliom’s new showroom in Wailea is what she calls “a 4-D experience.” The diamond-shaped stage where Gilliom performs Friday and Saturday nights features four large video screens with what she calls “the most incredible drone footage of Hawai‘i … waterfalls … breathtaking waves … Everything I sing about in Hawaiian will be completely explained on the screen, so the average tourist will understand what I’m singing about, finally.” But she doesn’t just sing in Hawaiian. Her repertoire encompasses Tina Turner, Etta James, Justin Timberlake and many other styles, and her diverse talents in musical theater and jazz are fully compatible with her powerful Hawaiian soul. “The fourth element that a lot of people miss is smell,” she says. “So we’re piping it in—the ocean, the rain. You’ll smell pīkake, you’ll smell maile leis, the forest. We want to bring back the old aloha spirit.” Behind the music, stagecraft and sensory dimensions, Gilliom is aware of a powerful presence: her grandmother, Jennie Napua Wood.
“My brother and
I had a band ... and I was playing drums at six years old.”
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Roasted Sea Bass
THREE
OF
THE
TOP
Voted Best Steaks & Best Seafood on Maui
ZAGAT
RATED
RESTAURANTS
Exquisite Italian cuisineoceanside under the Maui stars
ON
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Wolfgang Puck’s legendary cuisine with stunning ocean views...
complimentary valet parking (808)874.8000
Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea
•
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Hawaii’s First Forbes Five-Star AND AAA Five Diamond Resort
Reservations: (808) 874.8000 • 3900 Wailea Alanui Drive, Wailea, Maui Hawaii 96753
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WINE & DINE
Wailea Guide
Restaurant Week Wailea
AMA Bar & Grill
Humble Market Kitchin
Morimoto Maui
Fairmont Kea Lani
Wailea Beach Resort
Andaz Maui Wailea Resort
808.875.4100 / Hawai‘i Modern
808.879.4655 / Seafood / Sushi
808.243.4766 / Japanese
Bistro Molokini
Humuhumunukunukuapua‘a
Mulligans on the Blue
Grand Wailea
Grand Wailea
100 Kaukahi St.
808.875.1234 / Island Cuisine
808.875.1234 / Hawai‘i Seasonal
808.874.1131 / Irish/American
Botero Lounge
Island Gourmet Markets
Nick’s Fishmarket Maui
Grand Wailea
The Shops at Wailea
Fairmont Kea Lani
808.875.1234 / Cocktails
808.874.5055 / Deli/Sushi/Market
808.879.7224 / Modern/Seafood
Bumbye Beach Bar
Ka‘ana Kitchen
The Pint & Cork
Andaz Maui Wailea Resort
Andaz Maui Wailea Resort
The Shops at Wailea
808.573.1234 / Cocktails
808.573.1234 / Hawai‘i Regional
808.727.2038 / Gastropub
Every November and May, Wailea restaurants present their finest offerings in prix-fixe menus for just $29, $39 or $49 per person. In 2017, Restaurant Week takes place May 21-27 and November 5-11. For more information, visit
Café Kula Marketplace
Kapa Bar & Grill
Pita Paradise
www.restaurantweekwailea.com.
Grand Wailea
Wailea Beach Resort
Wailea Gateway Center
808.875.1234 / Gourmet Market
808.879.1922 / American/Pacific Rim
808.879.7177 / Mediterranean
Caffé Ciao Bakery & Market
Kō
Fairmont Kea Lani
Fairmont Kea Lani
The Restaurant at Hotel Wailea
808.875.2210 / Plantation Era
Cheeseburger Grille & Tap Room
Lappert’s Hawaii The Shops at Wailea
The Shops at Wailea
808.879.1711 / Ice Cream
808.874.8990 / American
Lehua Lounge
The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf
Andaz Maui Wailea Resort
The Shops at Wailea
808.891.2045 / Coffee/Pastries
808.573.1234 / Cocktails Lobby Lounge
Hotel Wailea
808.879.2224 / Island Inspired Ruth’s Chris Steak House The Shops at Wailea
808.874.8880 / Steaks/Seafood Spago Four Seasons Resort
808.879.2999 / Pacific Rim
DUO
Four Seasons Resort
Starbucks
Four Seasons Resort
808.874.8000 / Cocktails
Wailea Beach Resort
808.874.8000 / Steak/Seafood Fabiani's Wailea Wailea Gateway Center
808.874.1234 / Pizza/Pasta Ferraro’s Bar e Ristorante Four Seasons Resort
808.874.8000 / Italian Gannon's Wailea Gold Course
808.875.8080 / Hawai‘i Regional Grand Dining Room Maui Grand Wailea
808.875.1234 / American Honolulu Coffee Co. The Shops at Wailea
808.875.6630 / Coffee Shop Honua‘ula Lu‘au Grand Wailea
808.875.7710 / Lu‘au Show
Longhi's The Shops at Wailea
808.891.8883 / Mediterranean Luana Fairmont Kea Lani
808.875.4100 / Cocktails Manoli's Pizza Company 100 Wailea Ike Drive
808.874.7499 / Italian The Market Maui Wailea Gateway Center
808.879.2433 / Gourmet Pantry
Wailea Gateway Center
808.875.7827 / Sandwich/Deli Te Au Moana Wailea Beach Resort
877.827.2740 / Lu‘au Show Tommy Bahama The Shops at Wailea
808.875.9983 / American/ Caribbean Volcano Grill & Bar Grand Wailea
808.875.1234 / American
Wailea Town Center
Wailea Kitchen & Tap
808.891.8466 / Italian Mokapu Market Andaz Maui Wailea Resort 808.573.1234 / Snacks Wailea Gateway Center
808.891.2322 / Handcrafted
wailea
Subway
Matteo’s Osteria
Monkeypod Kitchen
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808.874.7981 / Coffee Shop
Wailea Tennis Club
808.878.3663 / Comfort Food Whalers General Store The Shops at Wailea
808.891.2039 / Deli
©KZENON/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO
808.875.4100 / Gourmet Market
Longhi’s Ko’olina 7:30 am -10:00 pm 92-161 Waipahe Place Kapolei, HI 96707 808.671.8887
THE WAILEA LIFESTYLE
THERE AREN'T MANY PLACES IN THE WORLD where you can walk along the beach for a mile and a half, delight in ideal weather year-round and enjoy the finest shopping and dining at a moment’s notice. On average, the weather at Wailea is 82 degrees. The sunsets along the north-south Coastal Path are consistently spectacular. And in 1,500 acres of makai to mauka splendor, there are countless opportunities to stay fit, dine well, enjoy the ocean and play golf and tennis to your heart’s content. It’s easy to get spoiled in Wailea. The Wailea lifestyle is also expressed through the luxury hotels, villas, vacation rentals, condos and town homes of this South Maui resort. And the amenities: Within minutes of any Wailea residence or room, there are shops, spas, restaurants and the full range of social, cultural and recreational offerings. Three 18-hole championship golf courses—the Emerald, Gold and Blue— draw golfers from around the world. Tennis buffs have their day too, at the Wailea Tennis Club and its 11 courts. And ocean lovers need only walk a few steps to sink their toes in the silky sands of Wailea beaches. Year-round watersports, from snorkeling and swimming to kayaking and stand-up paddling, are among the resort’s attractions in a landscape of green, blue and sunset red. Romance and wellness are everywhere, and not just for a generation or two. Multiple generations enjoy Wailea’s setting and amenities for weddings, honeymoons and bridal parties. The finest spas, wellness programs and beauty programs in Hawai‘i are located here, appealing to all ages, demographics and generations. Villas, residences, hotels and multiple types of accommodations are sprinkled along the five white-sand beaches of South Maui. A walk along the Coastal Path, 74
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Life Is Abloom on the South Shore
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THE WAILEA LIFESTYLE
where old friends meet and new acquaintances are made, adds up to three miles and countless discoveries roundtrip. Besides recreation, rejuvenation and watersports, shopping and dining are art forms here. Wailea’s boutiques are among the finest in Hawai‘i. World-renowned chefs use fresh local ingredients from upcountry farms and the surrounding ocean, and many of the dining rooms have ocean views. Whether it’s a 5,000-square-foot residence with a million-dollar view or a 900-square-foot condo with the same extraordinary vista, the Wailea lifestyle speaks volumes. The attractions and amenities—beauty, renewal, thoughtful service, luxurious dining and accommodations—may be the Wailea signature, but they’re just the tip of the iceberg. 76
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Andaz Maui Wailea Resort
The Shops at Wailea
www.andazmaui.com
www.shopsatwailea.com
Destination Residences Hawaii
Wailea Beach Resort—Marriott, Maui
www.drhmaui.com
www.waileamarriott.com
Fairmont Kea Lani
Wailea Gateway Center
www.fairmont.com/kealani
www.keanpropertieshawaii.com
Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea
Wailea Golf Club
www.fourseasons.com/maui
www.waileagolf.com
Grand Wailea
Wailea Resort Association
www.grandwailea.com
www.wailearesortassociation.com
Hotel Wailea
Wailea Tennis Club
www.hotelwailea.com
www.waileatennis.com
Residence Inn Maui at Wailea
Wailea Town Center
ResidenceInnMauiWailea.com
www.waileatowncenter.info/#
(FROM LEFT) ©ZACH PEZZILLO; ©DANA EDMUNDS
WAILEA RESORT
I S L A N D S O T H E B Y ’ S I N T E R N AT I O N A L R E A LT Y
LUXURY REAL ESTATE
Global Network. Exclusive Connections. Sotheby’s International Realty is worldwide in 65 countries and territories, with 850 offices, and 20,000 sales associates. We offer unparalleled expertise to unite our clients with distinctive properties around the world.
Island Sotheby’s International Realty
South Maui: 808.879.8880
68 Sales Associates 3 Maui Offices
West Maui: 808.665.1166 islandsothebysrealty.com
Photo: One Palauea Bay | 5 Bedrooms, 4½ Baths | 7506 SqFt | 1.02 Acres | $9,995,000 | MLS® #: 370984 |
Upcountry: 808.572.8600
EACH OFFICE IS INDEPENDENTLY OWNED AND OPERATED
SHOPPING
The Art of Shopping It’s the thrill of the hunt Wailea’s resorts, beaches and restaurants may be center stage in South Maui, but so is shopping. Here at Wailea, shopping is art, recreation and, yes, education. For those who love the thrill of discovery, shopping is a compelling pursuit, an insight into the arts and artisans of the island and the local culture from which they spring.
Shops, galleries, restaurants, a gourmet coffee house and ice cream shop are the tip of the iceberg at The Shops at Wailea. At the northern end of the complex, the Island Gourmet Markets is an added convenience. You can find fresh local produce, gift items, a deli, wines and a diverse array of comestibles for dining in, entertaining or spontaneous gatherings on the beach. More than 70 shops, restaurants and galleries have long identified The Shops at Wailea as South Maui’s premier shopping destination. Located between Grand Wailea and Wailea Beach Resort, it’s one seamless sweep of global high-fashion giants, casual family-owned businesses and island-oriented retailers with all the practical necessities for beach, picnic or villa. You can dine, shop for art, pamper yourself with a new wardrobe or tuck into a freshly baked waffle cone. (Continued on page 82) 80
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THE SHOPS AT WAILEA
The Shops at Wailea
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Specialty boutiques and services are tailor-made for the resort lifestyle.
(Continued from page 80) There’s more: pasta, ice cream, steaks, designer coffee and long, generous and spirited happy hours. With the sun filtering through palm trees in the atrium area, benches invite lingering over a hot cup of coffee. 3750 Wailea Alanui, 808.891.6770, TheShopsAtWailea.com, @ShopsAtWailea on Twitter. Open daily 9:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Mauka from the coast, where the flanks of Haleakalā roll toward the ocean, Wailea Gateway Center offers unique peeks of the ocean, the West Maui Mountains and the world beyond the coast. It’s a convenience and a luxury, a pivot point for Wailea and a gateway to points beyond. Carefully selected boutiques and artisanal shops proffer rare wines and gourmet items, and those in search of epicurean finds will not be disappointed. The two-story Gateway also proffers clothing, coffee and pastries, a day spa, designer chocolates, beachwear and sailing adventures on the high seas. For dining, the choices are diverse: pizza and sandwiches, Greek and Mediterranean fare and Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine. Take-out foods are the ultimate convenience for those on the move, while Monkeypod Kitchen’s farm-to-table offerings are among the dining highlights of the island. For those seeking a new home in a superb resort community, stop in at one of the real estate professionals’ offices at the center for your convenience. Wailea Gateway Place, at the intersection of Pi‘ilani Highway and Wailea Ike Drive.
WAILEA TOWN CENTER
Wailea Gateway Center
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The Wailea Town Center offers a range of services and hidden treasures at the center of Wailea. Here you’ll find a full-service bank, a flower boutique, medical facilities, and a gourmet wine shop to fill your cellar or for special sunset gatherings. For a special dining experience, Matteo’s Osteria is bound to please. Wailea Town Center, north on Ike Place off Ike Drive just above Wailea Alanui.
(FROM LEFT) ©RACHEL OLSSON; ©KONDOR 83/SHUTTERSTOCK
WAILEA GATEWAY CENTER
Build Your Dream Home!
THERIDGEATWAILEA.COM Home Design and Architect by Arquitectura LLC
Why buy someone else’s Dream, when you can build your own? Lots starting at $1,350,000 New home construction happening now at The Ridge: This Enclave of 9 premium half acre home sites, with spectacular ocean and outer island views is located at the highest elevations within The Wailea Resort. The Ridge at Wailea offers sweeping vistas….An ideal locale to create your legacy Hawaiian retreat.
The Shops at Wailea ~ 3750 Wailes Alanui Dr., Ste B16 | Wailea, Maui, HI 96753 | Email: Brad@WaileaRealty.com
Bradley S. MacArthur Principal Broker, Owner Direct: 808.357.5000
SAVOUR Make every moment Grand.
Hawai‘i Seasonal Cuisine Chef de Cuisine Mike Lofaro
3850 Wailea Alanui, Wailea, HI 96753 800.888.6100
•
WWW.GRANDWAILEA.COM
SHOPPING
Andaz Maui Wailea Resort 3550 Wailea Alanui 808.573.1234 ‘ÄWILI SPA AND SALON
Along with custom-blended scrubs, lotions, oils and body butters, the spa boutique includes fashions by local designers.
variety of unique souvenirs, including specialty kitchen items and signature Kea Lani jams, teas and condiments. From prepared foods to go, to deluxe pastries, chocolates and wines, it’s an epicurean oasis.
polish, Shu Uemura Art of Hair and the luxury skincare of Kerstin Florian. NuFace and Light Stim devices are standouts in cosmetic technology, and there’s a selection of locally made jewelry, activewear and loungewear.
LE SURF WAILEA
Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea
Prepared takeaway foods include pastries, paninis, pizza, gelato and locally crafted beverages, all in a 24-hour convenience store with style.
The boutique’s thoughtful selection of women’s, men’s and children’s products is designed to meet wide-ranging resort needs. Favorite and familiar designers share their exclusive offerings, and newly discovered brands make a splashy entrance.
Fairmont Kea Lani
WILLOW STREAM SPA
4100 Wailea Alanui 808.875.4100
Recently voted Hawai‘i’s top spa by Travel + Leisure magazine for the second year, the state-of-the-art, 9,000-square-foot spa includes a retail boutique with Jane Iredale mineralbased cosmetics, Strange Invisible Perfumes, Smith & Cult, OPI nail
MOKAPU MARKET
CAFFE CIAO BAKERY & MARKET
This is a one-stop-shop for tasty treats and foodie gifts, from gourmet madeon-Maui food products to a wide 86
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accessories and apparel are included in this well-thought-out selection for men, women and kids. HILDGUND JEWELRY
808.874.5800 Luxury gems, diamonds and unique designs are the signature of Hildgund’s, long considered one of Hawai‘i’s premier jewelers. PORTS
22 KNOTS
Fine jewelry, high-end fashion and beach-to-evening style make a strong sartorial statement here, with iconic labels—Missoni, Lanvin, Pucci included. CABANA
Chic, comfortable and exclusive printed tees, rash guards by James Perse and designer beachwear with flair are among the boutique’s finds. Shoes,
Travel essentials—sundries, logowear, snacks and gift ideas—are covered in this thoughtful, colorful selection. TOWN AND COUNTRY MAUI, INC.
808.875.8822 Here’s where you’ll find fragrant, fresh and exotic blooms and arrangements, suitable for any occasion.
(FROM LEFT) ©ELENA DESIGN/SHUTTERSTOCK; ©DMYTRO LASTOVYCH/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; ©SEA WAVE/SHUTTERSTOCK
Shops, Galleries and More
SHOPPING
The Grand Wailea Shops and Galleries 3850 Wailea Alanui 808.875.1234 BEACH & POOL STORE
Water toys, hats, sun shirts, waterproof cameras and tanning lotions are included in the large selection of sun-friendly supplies. CRUISE BOUTIQUE
The finest swimwear selection in Hawai‘i offers 18 brands, including Seafolly, Letarte and Maaji and Profile by Gottex. And the sizes? Zero to 18. GRAND IMAGE BOUTIQUE
Spa Grande’s skincare products, therapeutic massage oils, elixirs and activewear fill yoga, fitness and beauty needs. Maui’s own ‘Ala Lani and Island Essence lines are among the spa products. GRAND JEWELS OF WAILEA
The estate, vintage, rare and highfashion finds include diamond, platinum and 18k-gold jewelry, as well as one-of-a-kind pieces by Norman Silverman Diamonds, Inc. KI‘I GALLERY
Among the brillliant treasures of this long-standing, respected Maui gallery are handmade jewelry, handblown art glass and luminous, multicolored South Seas pearls. NA HOKU
Exotic and elegant Na Hoku jewelry is inspired by the beauty and traditions of the Islands. Many of the intricately crafted pieces are enriched with Tahitian, Akoya or freshwater pearls.
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NAPUA GALLERY
An extensive selection of Dale Chihuly art glass and drawings joins the original paintings, sculptures, jewelry and fine art items of this gallery, including works by the premier artists of Maui. PINEAPPLE PATCH
Imaginative toys, books, puzzles and beachwear are among the finds for children. You’ll find hats, sun shirts and a life-size mermaid tail to swim in. QUIKSILVER
The Roxy and Quiksilver lines include the latest in swimwear, board shorts, sunglasses and backpacks for catching the waves or exploring Maui. Check out the selection of GoPro cameras and accessories for your island adventure. TRADEWINDS BOUTIQUE
The big names in resortwear—Lilly Pulitzer, Karen Kane, XCVI—are offered with on-trend jewelry that includes Kendra Scott and Marcia Moran. WAILEA BREEZES
It’s a breeze to put your best foot forward with this resort-savvy selection of handbags, accessories and men’s and women’s footwear. ARTFUL LIVING Maui talent is thriving Artists from around the island gather in the lobby and atrium areas of The Four Seasons Resort Maui, Wailea Beach Resort, Grand Wailea, Andaz Maui Wailea Resort and Fairmont Kea Lani for seasonal and weekly art fairs. At these events, Maui artists and craftsmen set up their displays and booths in easily accessible areas for a firsthand look at the island’s offerings. For schedules and more information, call the resorts’ concierges.
NOHEA MOKU in Black /Black
VISIT OUR SHOPS ON MAUI
ELEPHANT WALK
The Shops at Wailea 808-891-8684 Front Street, Lahaina 808-661-6129
SOUL LEI
Whalers Village 808-661-6663
SHOPPING
WAILEA GIFT SHOP
Wailea Golf Club
Gift items from Hawai‘i can be found among the logowear, souvenirs, sundries and resort accessories, such as beach bags, polo shirts and bathrobes.
PRO SHOP, GOLD AND EMERALD CLUBHOUSE
WAILEA MEN’S SHOP
Wailea’s award-winning pro shop, one of the largest in Hawai‘i, carries both golf and après-golf attire and accessories. Included are Under Armour, Polo, Travis Mathew, Adidas, Nike, Tommy Bahama, Helen Kaminski, Erik Javitz and more.
The spotlight is on men with Tommy Bahama, Travis Mathew, Johnnie-O and other spirited menswear lines. From swimwear to graphic tees, hats, sunglasses and aloha shirts for the lū‘au, the active man with style will feel right at home here.
100 Wailea Golf Club Drive 808.875.7450
Wailea Tennis Club Wailea Beach Resort
PRO SHOP
3700 Wailea Alanui 808.879.1922
131 Wailea Ike Place 808.879.1958
HOLOHOLO MARKET
In addition to logo apparel and accessories, the shop offers re-gripping and racquet-stringing services.
With snacks and sundries, beach and sports apparel, accessories, souvenirs and distinctive gifts, this is a shop for day-to-evening needs. And with ice cream, snacks and island-made goodies, it’s a good place to holoholo. MANDARA SPA
BLENDING SCIENCE WITH NATURE Offering the latest in spa technology combined with ancient Hawaiian traditions, Willow Stream Spa aims to uplift your spirit and restore your mana. Book your experience today, call 808.875.2229
Maui’s Island Essence mango-coconut body wash and Elemis lime-ginger scrub are among the finds at this fragrant spa shop. Treatment lines and beauty products uphold the East-West theme.
Wailea Blue Clubhouse PRO SHOP CLUBHOUSE
100 Wailea Ike Drive 808.879.2530
SHOPPING IN WAILEA From haute couture to exclusive gifts, you’ll find it at these retail centers.
The Shops at Wailea 3750 Wailea Alanui See page 80 for information.
Wailea Gateway Center At the intersection of Pi‘ilani Highway and Wailea Ike Drive See page 82 for information.
Wailea Town Center Wailea Blue’s new, contemporary pro shop is stocked with top-of-the-line golf apparel, equipment and accessories. Included among the respected labels are GG Blue, Linksoul and Nike.
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161 Wailea Ike Place See page 82 for information.
Wailea Village Center 100 Wailea Ike Drive
Come in for a
COMPLIMENTARY FACIAL
T RU F F L E INFUSED SKINCARE
BOUTIQUE TRUFFOIRE AT THE SHOPS AT WAILEA 808-875-6717 Hawaii@Truffoire.com
808 - 868 - 4014 | waterlilymaui.com
PLAY MORE THERE’S PLENTY TO PLAY AT HAWAII’S ONLY 54-HOLE GOLF RESORT
Blue skies, great greens, ocean views on every hole – you’ll find more to enjoy on Wailea’s three award-winning courses than anywhere else in Hawaii. Plus: great seasonal rates, multi-round specials and family-friendly offers mean you can play even more. You’re just a tee time away. follow us!
www.waileagolf.com | TOLL-FREE 1.888.328.MAUI | 808.875.7450 WAILEA GOLD | WAILEA EMERALD | WAILEA BLUE
When the Beach Calls... Who can resist?
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FUN IN THE SUN
©RACHEL OLSSON
WITH 120 MILES OF COASTLINE, 30 miles of beaches, enviable
weather and mauka to makai views, let’s state the obvious: Maui is a world of fun. The South Shore’s Wailea is renowned for its five crescent beaches, a dream come true for sun lovers. The daily pleasures are generous: recreation on land and sea, on tennis courts and golf courses, in swimming pools, the ocean and on trails. For many, a day at the beach entails more than just getting there. Inveterate beachgoers observe customary rituals in filling their allimportant beach kits: Will it be Vanity Fair, The New York Times, The New Yorker or the Maui News? Sunglasses, a cap or widebrimmed hat, snacks, cooler, towels and sunscreen are de rigueur in Wailea’s beach life. With these essentials, you can conquer the world. Snorkelers and divers tote their own specialized equipment. Fins are a must for bodysurfers and snorkelers, and masks and snorkels are essential. Anti-fog drops for the snorkeling mask are indispensable, unless you can find a fresh, tender naupaka kahakai leaf. (The naupaka growing abundantly on Hawai‘i’s shorelines is one of nature’s gifts.) Crush a young leaf, rub it on the inside of your mask, and the leaf ’s natural moisture prevents fogging. The five white naupaka petals are mysteriously arranged as if half the flower is missing, but its counterpart, naupaka kuahiwi, grows in the mountains with identical blooms. When held together, they merge as one. According to Hawaiian lore, the flowers represent the forbidden love of a Hawaiian princess, named Naupaka, and the commoner who claimed her heart. Forced to part by Hawaiian protocol, one of the star-crossed lovers went to the mountains, the other to the ocean. To this day, the naupaka bushes flourishing at the shorelines call to mind this poignant Hawaiian legend. Looking for seashells, scanning the horizon for whales and dolphins, and basking in the views of Kaho‘olawe and the West Maui Mountains add their own luster to the beach life. “If we lose the beauty of our shoreline,” said the slogan for an environmental movement of the 1980s, “we lose what it means to live in Hawai‘i.”
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The poetry of the earth is never dead. —John Keats, On the Grasshopper and Cricket
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©PRISMA BILDAGENTUR AG/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO
ALOHA MOMENT
CRUISE Grand Wailea Resort (808) 874-3998
MAUI WATERWEAR The Shops at Wailea (808) 891-8669
Whalers Village (808) 667-7774
Front Street Lahaina (808) 667-2761
BOUTIQUE ALOHA Paia Town (808) 597-9812