Where Berlin July 2017 by Morris Media Network

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In Style Model Sara Nuru on women in fashion and the Berlin look

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HERE COMES THE SUN SEE THE WORLD IN THE CITY

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CONTENTS

07.17 See more of Berlin at wheretraveler.com

The Plan Let’s get started

The Guide The best of Berlin

10 24

6 Hot Dates

Bargains galore in a pleasant village atmosphere at Designer Outlet.

Highlights of the month's can't-miss events, from ZZ Top to outdoor concerts and openair festivals.

SIGHTSEEING

Germany's northern islands delivering a big dose of... vitamin sea.

6 22

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

42 XX

Museum sculpture gardens – when culture and the warm weather outdoors beckon. DINING

XX is the most important Brunch meal of the day.

66 My Berlin Ellen Eisemann Insider tips from a local fashion designer.

The open-air cinemas are open. Watch the stars under the stars.

Also Inside

Recommendations from Julian Darenberg, concierge at the Regent Berlin.

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Sara Nuru, courtesy of Sara Nuru and Timo Korsmeyer Artist's Management.

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Cultural highlights from around the globe – passport not required.

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18 Traveling The World In Berlin

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In Style

Where Now

From transport to emergency numbers, find useful information for your stay in Berlin.

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JULY 2 0 17 W HER E T R AV EL ER . C OM

ENTERTAINMENT

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HOLI FESTIVAL OF COLORS: COURTESY OF HOLI FESTIVAL OF COLORS; BAG BY NAVYBOOT; OUTDOORS BERLIN: STRANDBAR MITTE, © VISITBERLIN, PHOTO BY BERND SCHÖNBERGER; VOLT RESTAURANT: COURTESY OF VOLT RESTAURANT; SARA NURU AND HER SISTER: COURTESY OF TIMO KORSMEYER ARTIST'S MANAGEMENT AND SARA NURU, NURUCOFFEE; RUSSIAN HOUSE: © ISTOCK.

SHOPPING

4 Editor’s Note

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www.wheretraveler.com 3

WELCOME TO BERLIN

YOUR TRAVEL ING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

where

M A G A Z I N E

A Berry Good Summer! It's official: the Berlin summer has arrived, bringing along great events, fun activities, and... lots of berries! As you may have noticed, the city is packed with strawberry stands at almost every corner. The most famous ones are the ones from Karls Erdbeerhof (www.karls.de), which look like large strawberries on wheels, but any supermarket will offer a good variety of local berries. And if you are looking to immerse yourself in a truly enjoyable, all-German summer activity, take to the countryside in and around Berlin and do the picking yourself. There are lots of Beerengärten, or "berry gardens," which let you pick all the berries you want and pay at the end, and it's a great way to spend a few hours in the sun and do something with the locals. Website www.berlinerbeerengarten.de lists some of the most popular berry fields in Berlin. Just make sure to be back in town before the sun goes down, because we've selected lots of fun places to enjoy the golden rays, from poolside lounges to city beaches and beer gardens (p. 10–12). And if you are around the first week of the month, don't forget to take a walk in the city's fashion district to catch some of the latest trends and possibly spot the models and designers in town for Berlin Fashion Week.

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Sarah Bethke

See you there!

HOT

DATES July in Berlin is a month of fabulous outdoor events, from music festivals with an Indian twist and lively street parades to concerts in fortresses.

HOLI FESTIVAL OF COLORS

SATURDAY

On a visit to Delhi in 2011, Jasper Hellman was inspired by the vibrant Holi, a traditional Hindu spring festival celebrating equality, love, and forgiveness, and decided to bring a version to Berlinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Olympia Park. Dance to DJs spinning pulsating techno and trance while throwing the traditional bags of colorful powder into the air. www.holifestival.com

ZZ TOP IN CONCERT TUESDAY

Founded in 1969 in Houston, the classic American blues rock band ZZ Top is known for their eclectic mix of Texas blues, jazz, and boogie. As part of their Tonnage Tour, the trio is coming to the historic Spandau Citadel to play songs from their newest album Futura as well as hits from their 14 previous albums. www.citadel-music-festival.de 6 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U LY 2017

WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

CLASSIC OPEN AIR FESTIVAL FROM THURSDAY

Situated in one of Europeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most stunning squares, the ornate Gendarmenmarkt, this concert series brings different performers on stage every evening until 25 July. The program kicks off with a concert from the Deutsches Filmorchester Babelsberg playing highlights from film music, and ends with Four Pianists - One Concert, featuring a multitude of piano medleys from different renowned artists, ranging from classical to blues. www.classicopenair.de

TECH OPEN AIR

FROM TUESDAY

This month, more than 200 speakers and 20,000 participants will come together for Europeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest interdisciplinary technology festival. Featuring interactive conferences about the latest start-up and tech trends, the four-day event is devoted to bringing together technology, music, art, and science through knowledge exchange and collaboration. The unique event also comes with a view, taking place at the Funkhaus Berlin along the Spree. www.toa.berlin

www.wheretraveler.com 7

JULY

22 BOTANICAL NIGHT SATURDAY

Few places lend themselves to a more magical musical evening than Berlin’s Botanical Garden, home to 22,000 plants from all around the world. Once a year, a 16-kilometer path along the flower beds and themed gardens is illuminated with various mythical creatures to add magic to the night's cultural program, including cabaret, theater, dance performances, and divine food delicacies. The event culminates with a 2 a.m. firework show. www.bgbm.org

CHRISTOPHER STREET DAY PARADE

SATURDAY

Every year, around half a million people take part in Berlin’s official pride parade, which is both a political show of support for LGBTQ equality and also a jubilant street festival with colorful costumes and live music. The event starts around noon at Kurfürstendamm and marches to the triumphant Brandenburg Gate. www.csd-berlin.de

SMALL MASTERPIECES UNTIL SUNDAY

LASTCE CHAN 8 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U LY 2017

On display only until the end of the month, the Alte Nationalgalerie is spotlighting a stunning series of pint-sized paintings spanning several eras, artists, and themes, from softly lit portraits to wide naturescapes. View over 50 paintings and 60 miniatures by painters such as Anna Dorothea Therbusch and Moritz von Schwind that have rarely – if ever – been shown before. www.smb.museum

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HOT DATES

Catch the catchy electronic pop of the Pet Shop Boys live at Mercedes-Benz-Arena. Canadian indie greats Arcade Fire play their new album at the Wuhlheide stage tonight. See the lively, colorful staging of Monteverdi's L'Orfeo at Komische Oper. Put your best face forward: Berlin Fashion Week starts today at venues around town. Get a dose of musical energy at the afternoon Espresso Konzert at Konzerthaus. Watch a movie under the stars at Freiluftkino Kreuzberg, an open-air cinema. Five-time Grammy winner and knight, Elton John sings at Mercedes-Benz-Arena tonight. See a stunning performance of Mozart's famed Magic Flute at Deutsche Oper. For antique fans, the Sunday flea market on Tiergarten's Straße des 17. Juni is a must. Take a refreshing dip at Badeschiff, a swimming pool floating in the Spree River. Legendary French electronica pioneer JeanMichel Jarre plays Zitadelle Spandau tonight. Ride the U2 to see U2 play to a massive crowd at Olympiastadion tonight. Feast on international delicacies at the Street Food Thursday event at Markthalle Neun. Former boy band lead turned solo artist, Ronan Keating sings at Spandau Citadel. See The Tiger Lillies perform their unique blend of punky vaudeville at Admiralspalast. Singer-songwriter Ryan Adams has a new album – hear it tonight at Tempodrom. Another great show at Tempodrom: this time, the one and only Norah Jones. As famed for their beards as for their music, rockers ZZ Top are live at Spandau Citadel. Catch a film at CineStar Potsdamer Platz, which specializes in movies in English. The Classic Open Air fest opens tonight with a concert & fireworks on Gendarmenmarkt. Fancy a big night out? Enjoy decadent dinner and dancing at Bar Tausend. Join the massive Christopher Street Day in Schöneberg and celebrate rainbow pride. Canadian soprano songstress Celine Dion sings her heart out at Mercedes-Benz-Arena. Kafka fans: The original manuscript of The Trial is now on show at Martin-Gropius-Bau. Take a musical lunch break at the Philharmonie's free "lunch concert" at 1pm. Admire the famous bust of Nefertiti, queen of Ancient Egypt, at the Neues Museum. Sip a cool beer or two in the shade at Prater, the oldest beer garden in the city. Toast to the weekend at Hopfenreich, featuring Berlin's biggest craft beer range. Deichkind, the electro hip-hoppers from Hamburg, play at Wuhlheide tonight. Sing along with one of Berlin's fave Sunday pastimes: outdoor karaoke in Mauerpark. Hear some cool music at the Experimontag event at Kreuzberg's Madame Claude bar.

For more ideas, see our Entertainment section.

HOLI FESTIVAL OF COLORS: COURTESY OF HOLI FESTIVAL OF COLORS; TOM GAEBEL: © CHRISTOPH KASSETTE; ZZ TOP: COURTESY OF ZZ TOP AND PROMOTION; TECH OPEN AIR: COURTESY OF TECH OPEN AIR; BOTANISCHER NACHT: FOTO ARTECOM, E. KLOEPPEL; CSD: ISTOCK; HANS THOMA, VILLA BORGHESE, 1880. ÖL AUF HOLZ, 20,8 X 16 CM. STAATLICHE MUSEEN ZU BERLIN, NATIONALGALERIE. FOTO: ANDRES KILGER.

WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

www.fashintech.berlin

AT KÜHLHAUS STATION-BERLIN

WHERE NOW | SUNNY DAYS

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ummer is when Berlin shows off the best sides of its laid-back, funloving personality. And now that we’ve hit the peak of the season, it’s imperative to make the most of these warm, bright days by soaking up as much sun as possible. From sunrise to sunset, these are the urban hotspots to visit in order to maximize your time in the golden rays.

FOOD & DRINK From breakfast to dinner and everything in between, take the opportunity to do the al fresco thing and enjoy fresh air and warm sun with every meal. Luckily for us, the city is bursting with patios, terraces, beer gardens, and even just good old picnic spots to choose from. One perennial favorite is Nola’s am Weinberg (Veteranenstr. 9, www.nola.de), a restaurant perched on the edge of Mitte’s 10 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U LY 2017

Weinbergsweg park. The spacious terrace overlooking the greenery is south-facing, which means diners can reap all-day sun while enjoying hearty Swiss specialties off the menu. Kreuzberg’s Café am Engelbecken (Michaelkirchplatz, www.cafe-amengelbecken.de) is an even more idyllic spot, set on the edge of a tranquil pond ringed by manicured rose gardens. Grab one of the coveted seats on the sundrenched terrace and a family of ducks might come paddling by. The ever-popular Strandbar Mitte (Monbijoustr. 3B, www. strandbar-mitte.de) is another favorite destination that combines sunny seating with a waterside outlook. With its rows and rows of lounge chairs on the banks of the Spree River, the Strandbar offers prime basking in the afternoon sun plus nice views of Museum Island across the water. The beer is good and cold and the pizza oven

churns out tasty thin-crust pies until late. When the sun's out, Berliners love nothing more than to laze around at their favorite park. Sun-worshippers head to the quaint Insel der Jugend (Island of Youth, www.inselberlin.de) in Treptower Park, where an arched footbridge leads to an idyllic beer garden. After getting your fill of sausages and steaks fresh off the grill, cool down by dipping your toes in the river or rent a paddleboat if the water is really calling your name. For a more DIY afternoon, the other end of the island is given over to a pleasant green where you can spread out with a picnic. On sunny days, Neukölln’s massive Tempelhofer Park, the grounds of a former airport, is filled with activity, attracting everyone from cyclists and kiteboarders to grillers and picnickers. Pack along your own vittles and join the sausage-flipping crowds at the park’s grilling grounds, or

TEMPELHOF PARK © VISITBERLIN, FOTO PHILIP KOSCHEL; STRANDBAR MITTE, © VISITBERLIN, PHOTO BY BERND SCHÖNBERGER; CAFE REINHARDS AM KUDAMM, © VISITBERLIN, PHOTO BY WOLFGANG SCHOLVIEN; UNTER DEN LINDEN, © VISITBERLIN, PHOTO BY TANJA KOCH; ENGELBECKEN CC BY-NC 2.0 VIA FLICKR USER TOM_STROMER; MAUER PARK: © ISTOCK.

pay a visit to the Picnic Berlin booth (www. picnic-berlin.com) to pick up a wicker basket filled to the brim with picnic supplies. Claim a spot on the grass and lounge until well past sunset. Over in Kreuzberg, the expansive Gleisdreieck Park is the place to be, with lots of space for activities (beach volleyball, anyone?) as well as simple sunbathing. Right next to a colony of allotment gardens, Café Eule is a bucolic hideaway in the park serving delectable cakes, salads, soups, and more, made with homegrown greens and herbs. Look for a converted shipping container near the park’s Bülowstraße entrance and you’re in the right place. For something a bit more substantial, at the other corner of the park is BRLO Brwhouse (Schöneberger Str. 16, www.brlo-brwhouse. de), a beer garden serving craft brews and an impressive menu of modern, seasonal cuisine.

HIT THE BEACH beach to spread out on, plus a water slide, For many of us, a sunny day simply has to showers, and lots of food options. A more be celebrated with a swim. Berlin may not ad hoc (not to mention free) swimming spot have an ocean at its disposal, but it more is Flughafensee, a Tegel-area lake with a than makes up for it with numerous lakes sloped, sandy beach and refreshing water. and swimming spots. Centrally located There are no food or changing facilities, and with plenty of urban charm, but the lake makes up for it with Badeschiff (Eichenstr. 4, www. a fun, anything-goes vibe and arena.berlin) is an easy choice easy access from central Berlin for a refreshing dip. The pool via the U6 line. If poolside is built from a converted glamor is more your thing, The Badeschiff is an old water-filled barge floating on barge that floats on the head to Haubentaucher the Spree river. Turned into a Spree River, accessed via a (Revaler Str. 99, www. swimming pool in 2002, it network of floating docks haubentaucher.berlin), set in embodies the city's that make for a perfect the heart of a one-time railway informal character. sunbathing spot. yard in Friedrichshain. With its If you’d like a little more room expansive blue pool, beach bar, to practice your backstroke, take the potted palm trees, chill-out lounge train to Wannsee lake (Wannseebadweg areas, and occasional DJ appearances, 25, www.berlinerbaeder.de) on the western there’s a bit of an L.A. pool party vibe going edge of the city. The city-run lido boasts on. After your dip, order a fruity cocktail and more than a kilometer of white, sandy make a toast to the Berlin summer. Clockwise from above left: Tempelhofer Park. This page: Strandbar Mitte; walking on Unter den Linden; Café am Engelbecken; Mauerpark; a café on the Ku'damm.

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WHERE NOW | FASHION SPOTLIGHT

MODEL Behavior G

erman-Ethiopian model Sara Nuru rose to fame at the age of 19, when she won the fourth edition of the television casting show Germany's Next Top Model. Ever since then, Sara has lent her face to many advertising campaigns for brands such as Lufthansa, Maybelline, and Sony Ericsson, and is currently the brand ambassador for LANA GROSSA. But there's more to Sara than just fashion. When not modeling, she works with a charity organization that supports education and women in Ethiopia. To further promote the East-African country, she and her sister recently started their own coffee brand, nuruCoffee.

14 W H EERREE LO BER NLDI N ON I JIUJLY A N2017 UA R Y 2013

SARA NURU, COURTESY OF SARA NURU AND TIMO KORSMEYER ARTIST'S MANAGEMENT.

Modeling isn't just about fashion and catwalks. Since winning Germany's Next Top Model, one of Sara Nuru's top concerns has been helping the local communities of her native Ethiopia. She spoke to Annabelle Mallia to share her views on the fashion world and life as a style icon.

ANNETTE GÃ&#x2013;RTZ STORE BERLIN | MARKGRAFENSTRASSE 42

Winning Germany’s Next Top Model has made you widely popular. How has your life, and your wardrobe, changed since then? Many things have changed. Thanks to my work, I get to travel a lot and meet lots of new people and experience new cultures. I come in contact with the newest trends, and I like to try them out, both for work and privately. What does fashion mean to you? Why is it important in our lives? Fashion is a special way to introduce yourself. With every look you choose, you get to express something different. I admire those women who have found their own individual style and proudly show it. How would you define the Berlin style? And which local designers do you think best represent it? Understatement = minimal and chic. Lala Berlin (www.lalaberlin.com), Perret Schaad (www.perretschaad.com), and William Fan (www.williamfan.com) are some of my favorite local brands. To me, they all represent Berlin. What do you look forward to most during this month's Berlin Fashion Week (4–7 July)? I am excited to see the new designs at the Berliner Modesalon. It's fabulous to discover new creative energies, and I love being inspired by them. What do you like about Berlin? I love almost everything about this city, its anonymous nature and its international flair. There's always something new to discover. It's a pulsating city, and even when I feel lost in it, I always find a comforting village feel in each of the city's Kieze (local neighborhoods). You are strongly involved in charity work in Ethiopia, your parents' native country. What is your mission, and what projects do you support? For the past eight years, I have been the ambassador of the NGO Menschen für Menschen, which supports development projects in Ethiopia. This charity organization works to improve five important aspects: education, water, nutrition, income, and health. The focus is to help local communities become self-sufficient in the long term. My biggest concern is offering support to women, and promoting their empowerment. You recently started a coffee company: Could you tell us more about it? My sister and I wanted to promote our parents' country from a different 16 W H EERREE LO BER NLDI N ON I JIUJLY A N2017 UA R Y 2013

perspective, presenting its diversity and special features, so we founded a social business called nuruCoffee. We buy Ethiopian coffee from small, certified farmers' co-ops, and reinvest part of the revenue in women's projects. Through micro-credit, education, and training courses, we help communities create their own businesses and become independent.

COFFEE, COURTESY OF NURUCOFFEE; SARA NURU, COURTESY OF SARA NURU AND TIMO KORSMEYER ARTIST'S MANAGEMENT; SARA NURU WITH HER SISTER AT NURUCOFFEE, COURTESY OF SARA NURU AND TIMO KORSMEYER ARTIST'S MANAGEMENT.

WHERE NOW | FASHION SPOTLIGHT

ZALANDO OUTLET STORE

UP TO 70% OFF *

DAILY CHANGING COLLECTION

MORE THAN 500 TOP BRANDS

SCHLESISCHES TOR BERLIN KREUZBERG

Köpenicker Straße 20, 10997 Berlin | Monday − Saturday 10 am − 8 pm * Compared to the manufacturer’s suggested retail price. www.zalando-outlet.de

H T E G W N I L O E R V A

L R I N E B IN

erlin is a diversity hotspot: There are 180 languages spoken in the city, rivaling only London and New York, and 30 percent of the population has an immigration background. As showcased through the colorful Carnival of Cultures every year, the city is a living representation of the foods, sights, and sounds of the world. Throughout the year, you can travel the globe in the German capital by simply buying a public transit ticket. Much of Berlin’s diversity has come from refugees, even three centuries ago. Bordering the lush Tiergarten, Berlin’s oldest high school, the Französische Gymnasium (Derfflingerstr. 7, www.fg-berlin.eu) was founded for the children of Protestant Huguenots fleeing French persecution in 1689. Admitting German pupils soon after

18 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U LY 2017

it was founded, the school has maintained bilingual French and German instruction, even during the Nazi era. Paying homage to another group of immigrants who have been coming to Berlin since Germany’s guest worker program of the 1950s, there are countless authentic Italian restaurants, be it the street food of Naples at Jamme Ja Trattoria (Neue Bahnhofstr. 7B, www.jammeja.de) or the Venetian staples at La Pecora Nera (Herrfurthplatz. 6, www.pecoraberlin.de). But you'll also feel like you're in Northern Italy at Neu-Venedig (Fürstenwalder Allee 348, www.neu-venedig.de), or New Venice, a stunning series of five canals and 12 bridges between the Dämeritzsee and Müggelsee. Another outdoor marvel is the Garden of the Reclaimed Moon, the largest Chinese garden in Germany harmoniously symbolizing the reunification of Berlin. It’s

on display at the sprawling 100-hectare Gardens of the World (Eisenacher Str. 99), which also includes a traditional Chinese tea house overlooking a peaceful pond, and fantastic floral displays from other Asian countries such as Japan, Korea, and Indonesia. A fixture of Berlin’s small but significant Sri Lankan community is the Buddhist House in Frohnau (Edelhofdamm 54, das-buddhistische-haus.de), the oldest Theravada Buddhist Temple in Europe and a World Heritage site. Inspired by traditional Sri Lankan architecture, the complex features an elaborate entrance decorated with elephant sculptures, with 73 steps leading up to the main building. Inside are a library and meditation room that are open to residents and visitors alike. For more stunning architecture, check out the Dutch Quarter (Mittelstraße, Potsdam),

GLOBE, RUSSIAN HOUSES, DUTCH QUARTER: ©ISTOCK; NEU VENEDIG: PHOTO BY A.SAVIN (WIKIMEDIA COMMONS · WIKIPHOTOSPACE) (OWN WORK) [FAL OR CC BY-SA 3.0 VIA WIKIMEDIA COMMONS2; GÄRTEN DER WELT: COURTESY OF GRÜN BERLIN.

TR Rachel Stern takes a trip around the globe’s cultures, cuisines, and architectures without leaving the German capital.

AROUND THE WORLD | WHERE NOW

Berlin is known to be the second tango city in the world after Buenos Aires.

Clockwise from opposite, above left: a Russian-style house in Potsdam's Russian colony, Alexandrowska; totems at the Gardens of the World; the canals in Neu Venedig; the Chinese Tea House at the Gardens of the world in Marzahn. Inset, below: the Dutch townhouses at Potsdam's Dutch Quarter.

where the 169 red-brick buildings give the feeling of stepping into 18th-century Holland. Considered to be Europe’s greatest collection of Dutch-style homes outside the Netherlands, these houses were designed by Dutch architect Jan Bouman in the 1730s to give a realistic home away from home to the Dutch workers hired to build the Potsdam palaces. For another architectural step back in time, visit Alexandrowka (Alexandrowka 2, Potsdam, alexandrowka.de), a colony of 13 Russian-style houses, built between 1826 and 1827 at the wish of Prussia’s former king, Friedrich Wilhelm III. The area is surrounded by sprawling gardens and includes a classic Russian Orthodox Church, and was declared an UNESCO World Heritage site in 1999. Some of the descendants of the inhabitants of the original homes are said to still live there. Head to Central Asia in the center of Berlin at the Tadshikische Teestube (Oranienburger Str. 27, www.tadshikischeteestube.de), which transports guests

to a colorful cushioned room decorated with Central Asian tapestries. Adhering to traditional standards, guests sit crosslegged on the floor, tasting traditional Tajikistan tea and Soviet specialties. Next, travel to the Balkans at Kafana (www.kafana-berlin.de, Bruchsaler Str. 6), named after a type of southern Serbian tavern known for its strong drinks, festive folk music, and hearty comfort food staples. This cozy food and music hall lives up to its name, serving signature cuisine such as ajvar, a red-pepper and eggplant spread over freshly baked bread, amid performances from artists from the Balkans. For a sampling of art and music from across Africa, the Caribbean, and Latin America, visit YAAM (An der Schillingbrücke 3, www.yaam.de), one of

Berlin’s best beach bars featuring daily live music in the summer, plus weekly drum lessons from Gambian percussionist Abu Sammo. July’s lineup includes Mexican cumbia artist Celso Piña, Brazilian percussion group Nação Zumbi, and a “Reggae Yaam Session” with visiting Jamaican artists. No visit would be complete without a trip to the twice-weekly market devoted to Berlin's largest immigrant group, the Turkish community, which numbers around 200,000. Every Tuesday and Friday from 11am until about 6:30pm, Turkish Market (Maybachufer 1-13) vendors line up along the scenic Maybachufer in Kreuzberg to sell not only fresh fruits and vegetables, but also traditional pastries, handmade arts, and crafts and household wares – an assortment as diverse as Berlin itself. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 19

SHOPPING | THE GUIDE

Designer Outlet

Treasure Hunt The first time I first visited a McArthur Glen Designer Outlet was a few years ago in Castel Romano, near Rome. I'd heard a lot about fashion outlets, and had always wondered why people would go to such lengths as to travel for hours into the countryside just to buy a bag. OK, I get it, part of it is the lower prices you pay for fashion items that would otherwise be unaffordable for most of us, but is that really all? When I first set foot in the outlet center, I realized that there was more: These places are built like small shopping villages, slightly recalling the city they are located in, a formula that has the almost magical effect of instantly making you feel on vacation. And what better time to shop than on a carefree vacation day? So, when I moved to Berlin, I was excited to hear that the German capital has its own McArthur Glen outlet. Just a 30-minute drive from the city center, Designer Outlet is easily reachable by car, express bus from Spandau, 20 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U LY 2017

or VIP shuttle bus on Fridays and Saturdays from KurfĂźrstendamm (see website for departure times and places). The small roads of the shopping village are lined with more than 100 boutiques that include luxury and lifestyle brands such as Escada, Michael Kors, Stefanel, Calvin Klein, French Connection, Libeskind Berlin, Nike, Karl Lagerfeld, and many more, and every price tag is slashed by 30 to 70 per cent. Visitors usually spend the whole day at Designer Outlet, which means the food offering is very satisfying, with restaurants and cafĂŠs for every taste. This month, Designer Outlet will be

celebrating the summer with a sandy beach area, opening on 17 July, featuring lounge chairs, cool drinks, performances, and entertainment for all. But the real highlight is the Late Night Shopping event on 27 July, with shops open until midnight, acrobatic cocktail shows, music, and dancing, as well as discounts of up to 80% off the original price on many brands. For those visiting with kids in tow, there's a playground area and a supervised kids' club so the little ones can play while the grown-ups shop in peace. What more could you want? www.DesignerOutletBerlin.com

COURTESY OF DESIGNER OUTLET

Solveig Steinhardt took a day off to visit Designer Outlet, one of the city's most pleasant shopping experiences.

SHOPPING

THE

where GUIDELINES

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Every effort is made to provide accurate and updated information. However, information may be subject to last minute changes, so it is always advisable to call ahead.

INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS T: Telephone number S: S-Bahn, Above-ground train system U: U-Bahn, Underground train system MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 63-65. OPENING HOURS Opening hours may vary, so it’s best to call ahead. Shops are open Mon–Sat only, and Sunday shopping is only possible on certain Sundays of the year. This year, these are: 3 September, 1 October, 5 November, 3 December, 17 December. Groceries can be bought on Sundays at major train stations (Hauptbahnhof, Friedrichstraße, at Ullrich at Zoologischer Garten, or Ostbahnhof ). Shopping malls are open 10am–8pm and smaller stores only until 6pm. TOURIST INFORMATION VisitBerlin is the official source of information on the city. Call T: 030.25002333 for specific Berlin information, or go to www.visitberlin.de for details on all information centers, events, and sights. Tourist Info Points: Brandenburg Gate – Pariser Platz, daily 9:30am–6pm (until 7pm in summer). Hauptbahnhof – Europaplatz 1, Level 0, daily 8am–9pm. TV Tower Alexanderplatz – Panoramastr. 1a, daily 10am–4pm.

DEPARTMENT STORES & MALLS

Europa Center

Mall of Berlin

This shopping mall on the Ku’damm offers a range of goods from over 70 shops. Check out the ingenious water clock designed by Bernard Gitton in 1982. www.europa-center-berlin.de. Tauentzienstr. 9–12. T: 030.26497940. U Kurfürstendamm, U Wittenbergplatz. C4

270 shops, 270 apartments, gyms, and pedestrian areas define the new Mall of Berlin on Leipziger Platz, a world of shopping opportunities a stone’s throw from the city’s main tourist attractions. www.mallofberlin.de.Leipziger Platz 12. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Galeria Kaufhof

Potsdamer Platz Arkaden

The former East German department store, renovated in 2006, showcases more than 600 exclusive brands and an exquisite gourmet section covering 35,000sq.m (377,000sq.ft) of space. www.galeria-kaufhof.de. Alexanderplatz 9. T: 030.247430. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

This large shopping center offers more than 120 shops over three floors, stocking everything from clothes and accessories to electronics and groceries. Its restaurants and bars, both inside and in surrounding streets, also make it a very popular meeting spot. www.potsdamer-platz-arkaden.de. Alte Potsdamer Str. 7. T: 030.2559270. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Galeries Lafayette The Berlin branch of the exclusive Parisian department store is developed around an extraordinary glass cone. The three circular floors rise up around this centerpiece, packed with perfumes, clothing, and accessories. The food counter offers a wide range of French specialties and there’s a corner selling teas from the famed French tea house Mariage Frères. www.galerieslafayette.de. Friedrichstr. 76–78. T: 030.209480. U Französische Straße. E3

Kaufhaus des Westens (KaDeWe) The biggest and oldest department store in Germany sells only products of the highest quality. If you're short on time, the legendary gourmet food hall on the sixth floor is not to be missed. www.kadewe.de. Tauentzienstr. 21–24. T: 030.21210. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

CONCEPT STORES Herrlich Germany’s first concept store for men’s gifts offers unique trinkets that beat socks any day, from an old-fashioned brush-and-blade shaving set to a miniature espresso machine for en route. www.herrlich-berlin.de. Bergmannstr. 2. T: 030.7845395. U Gneisenaustraße. E5

Manufactum Their catalogue enjoys an almost cult-like status for its German language prowess, but better still is to visit the store itself. They collect mainly household and garden goods made with traditional manufacturing methods and materials. www.manufactum.de. See website for other locations. Hardenbergstr. 4. T: 030.24033844. U Ernst-Reuter-Platz. B3

ADVERTORIAL

Alexa Hardcore shoppers love this mall for its sheer size, with over 180 stores spread over five levels. Highstreet retailers are well represented, and a large food court obliges when hunger overwhelms your desire to shop. www.alexacentre.com. Grunerstr. 20. T: 030.269340121. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

BIKINI BERLIN BIKINI BERLIN combines the shopping with a fun and relaxing experience. The historical building complex in Berlin's west end makes for interesting strolls, also offering beautiful views of the Berlin zoo and its animals, which can be admired both from indoors as well as from the rooftop terrace. But the main attraction is the curated selection of shops, which include individual pop-up boxes frquently showcasing new designers, popular brands, and many design stores. www.bikiniberlin.de. Budapester Str. 38-50. T: 030.55496455. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Designer Outlet Berlin Your favorite designer brands with discounts up to 70 percent, at just 30 minutes from the city center. Also features cafes and restaurants, a children’s play area, free parking and more that 100 international brands. Shuttle bus from center on Fri-Sat. Bring a copy of Where Berlin to the office and get a further 10% off. Mon–Thu 10am–7pm, Fri and Sat to 8pm. www.designeroutletberlin.com. Alter Spandauer Weg 1. T: 033234.9040. Take the regional train to Elstal. Off Map

designer depot Mitte's Outlet Boutique Few things in life are as exciting as finding the perfect designer item that fits perfectly and costs 50% off the tag price. At Designer Depot in Mitte you'll find factory outlet sales, inventory samples, and previous collections for men and women by more than 30 fashion designers. The owner focuses on Italian pieces, both casual and classy, and brands include big names like Moschino, Calvin Klein, Roberto Cavalli, and Versace, but also cool, young labels such as Gaëlle Paris, Guess, or Liu Jo. With so many styles and looks, there is something for everyone here. Bring a copy of Where Berlin and get a free shopping bag! Rochstr. 2. T: 030 28046700. Open Mon–Sat noon–8 pm. www.designer-depot.net

www.wheretraveler.com 21

SHOPPING

SUMMER

NUDES

White is the best color to wear if you have a suntan to show off, says Claudia Koksch.

1. Shirt and shorts by Ben Sherman, Rosenthaler Str. 31. 2. Underwear by Zimmerli, Kurfürstendamm 38. 3. Shoes by Closed, Alte Schönhauser Str. 32B and Bikini Berlin. 4. Bag by Navyboot, Kurfürstendamm 40/41. 5. High heels by Lio Jo, Mall of Berlin, Voßstr. 35. 6. Underwear by Triumph, Mall of Berlin, Voßstr. 35. 7. Sheath dress by Airfield, Mall of Berlin, Voßstr. 35. 8. Ultra-white nail polish by Catherine, Knesebeckstr. 35-37.

22 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U LY 2017

04 - 06 JULY 2017 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; KRAFTWERK BERLIN MITTE

SHOPPING

ADVERTORIAL

Summer Nights Imagine one of those balmy July evenings, filled with fireflies and blossoming trees and meadows. For the best season of the year, French design emporium Pylones has created a line inspired by the beauty of summer nights, with bags, key chains, stationery, kitchenware, and other design products featuring pretty flowery patterns set against the night sky. And with dozens of other patterns and many animal-inspired gadgets and design objects, Pylones is a celebration of color, nature, and joie de vivre! www.pylones.com. Schloßstr. 32/32a. T: 030 92357108. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Kurfürstendamm 225. T: 030 92362488. Mon-Sat 10am-9pm; Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 3. T: 030 80928130. Mon–Sat 10am-9pm.

FASHION

By Anne

Inspired by geometric lines and the use of "noncolors" such as black, beige, white, and gray, fashion brand Annette Görtz combines comfort with understated elegance. www.annettegoertz.com. T: 030 20074613. Markgrafenstr. 42. U Stadtmitte. E3

By Anne offers designer fashion from sought-after European labels such as cool Danish brand NÜ, Beate Heymann Street Couture, playful Spanish label Uno Piu Uno, and bags from By Lou Lou, together with other accessories to complement your new outfit. Unique art pieces are also on sale to help you express your individuality in the home or garden. www.byanne.de. Rosenthaler Str. 31. T: 030.28879436. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Beatrice von Tresckow

Cinque

Annette Görtz

Sumptuous, elegant, somewhat extravagant. Beatrice Von Tresckow women's clothes are lively and colorful, an eye-catching addition to any wardrobe. www.beatricevontresckow.com, Leibnizstr. 60. T: 030 308318. U Adenauer Platz. C4

Exquisite elegance for men and women defines this label, whose products are inspired by the Italian lifestyle and Mediterranean views. www.cinque.de. Rochstr. 1. T: 030.28099999. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Be Edgy

The French just have that certain je ne sais quoi when it comes to style. Laid-back, breezy, comfortable, and nonetheless elegant, the Cotélac collections capture that quintessential French style in clothing and accessories for both women and men. Brand hallmarks are fine fabrics, subtle details and unique prints created with special dye and fabric techniques. Mulackstr. 6.

With rule-breaking elements and a timeless soul, this Berlin-born fashion label makes perfectly cut leather jackets and a variety of accessories meant for rebellious and cheeky boys and girls. www.be.edgy.de. Bleibtreustr. 27. T: 0176.61137540. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Boggi Milano Italian elegance for men. Specializes in highquality suits that are formal while also remaining comfortable, and also carries a sport casual collection. www.boggi.com. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4 24 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U LY 2017

Cotélac

T: 030 53604074. www.cotelac.fr. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

designer depot This boutique in Mitte offers selected designer fashion, shoes, and accessories for men and ladies at up to 50 percent off. There are more than 30 international labels such as Calvin Klein, Iceberg, Roberto Cavalli, and Valentino. www.designer-depot.net. Rochstr. 2. T: 030.28046700. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Finn's Mode This tiny store near Savignyplatz stocks a large variety of fashion items with a personality, for women "who know who they are and like to dress well." Brands include Piazza Sempione, Zenggi, Cambio, Le Tricot Perugia, and more, and the selection ranges from dresses and skirts to accessories like shoes and bags. www.finns-mode. de. Bleibtreustraße 47. T: 030.8832202. U Uhlandstraße B4

Frosch & Königin This fairytale store is filled with beautiful things – fashion from 0039 Italy, jewelry by Nicola Hinrichsen, and Day Birger Mikkelsen home

Bag set by Gretchen. www.mygretchen.com

accessories, to name just a few. For the woman who has kissed a lot of frogs but still believes in the big love. www.froschundkoenigin.de. Rochstr. 16. T: 030 28873734. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Ganni Berlin Founded in Copenhagen, Ganni carries easy-towear pieces for women with an attitude who like to mix things up. Elegant and effortless clothing, lingerie, accessories, and shoes. www.ganni.com. Alte Schönhauser Str. 6. T: 030.27590966. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Goldsteg Designer Outlet This outlet store carries one-of-a-kind fashion pieces, exciting accessories and high-quality Italian leather bags by a wide range of designers. www.goldsteg.de. Carmerstr. 8. T: 030 51307933. S Savignyplatz. B4

Michael Kors The New York-based designer Michael Kors is known for his ready-to-wear fashion and luxury accessories – bags, watches, jewelry, shoes, and other award-winning designs. www.michaelkors. com. Kurfürstendamm 219. T: 030.81825760. U Uhlandstraße. C4; Rosenthaler Str. 37. T: 030.24088690. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

MaxMara One of the oldest and most prestigious Italian fashion houses, known for its quality craftsmanship and ready-to-wear clothing. www.maxmara.com. Friedrichstr. 184, T: 030.20074945. U Stadtmitte. E3; Kurfürstendamm 178. T: 030.8852545. U Adenauerplatz. B4

Michael Sontag The Berlin designer sets himself apart with his masterful draping techniques, creating simple yet flattering feminine silhouettes out of flowing fabrics with equal measures of elegance and sex appeal. www.michaelsontag.com. Muskauer Str. 41. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

Patrick Hellmann Among the most successful luxury brands in the fashion world, Patrick Hellmann stands for timelessness, elegant designs, quality materials, and extravagant details. There are also clothes by Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior, and Dolce & Gabbana. www.patrick-hellmann.com. Kurfürstendamm 190–192. T: 030.88487711. U Adenauerplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

NUMBER ONE - McAG - n/a TypeIN AreaSHOPPING, Initials - GR berlin - 3mm Bleed Scale - 100 LEISURE & ENTERTAINMENT - Press Date - 24–01–2017 Effective DPI - >300 File Name - Where Berlin Ad IN BERLIN

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MO - SA 10am - 9pm ALEXA AT ALEXANDERPLATZ OPEN ON SUNDAYS: FOOD COURT AND LEISURE AREA

Planet Berlin Described as "luxury with a touch of rock and roll," the store will have you decked out for your next glamorous night of clubbing. They stock classic labels such as Converse and Dr. Martens, as well as new labels like Japan Rags, whose jeans for both men and women have already achieved cult status. www.planetwear.de. Schlüterstr. 35. T: 030.8852717. S Savignyplatz. B4

180 SHOPS FASHION, ACCESSORIES, ELECTRONICS, BOOKS & MUCH MORE SHOPPING

Strellson This Swiss company creates fashion for men who are on their way up or, as they say, for young men with big plans. Concentrating on clarity, the Strellson philosophy is based on clear cuts and top quality for their suits and other urban wears, as well as transparent values and work attitudes. www.strellson.com. Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12. T: 030.20634795. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Rebecca Store With a unique boudoir atmosphere, this concept store is a harmonious medley of European and American designers, including Yigal Azrouel, Vera

Sei Du selbst.

ALEXACENTRE.COM

www.wheretraveler.com 25

SHOPPING the highest quality standards to its collection of shoes, handbags and accessories. Browse the shelves for contemporary, comfortable looks for everyday wear or elegant heels. Email: bagattberlino@gmail.com. Bikini Berlin: Budapester Str. 38–50. T: 030 25759777. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Boots & Shoes With their air-cushioned sole, lace-up style, and yellow stitching, the popular Doc Martens boots launched in the UK in 1960 wasc based on a prototype by German army doctor Klaus Märtens. Check out many designs and colors of the famous boots at Boots & Shoes, from the classic 1460 model, to shiny blue, or floral print. Ballerinas, booties, clothing, and accessories round off the offering. www.drmartens.com. Dircksenstr. 49. T: 0800.2070700. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Falke Flagship Store

Sounds Alive Good sound is not enough for Sennheiser. The German brand wants to achieve perfect sound, and make it come alive. Founded in 1945 by electrical engineer Dr. Fritz Sennheiser in a little laboratory near Hanover, Sennheiser has always been an innovator: In the 1950s, they developed the first directional microphone; in the 1970s, they focused on infrared transmission technology; and in the new millennium, they have been working on intelligent audio information systems. Today, Sennheiser is not only a provider of great German audio technology, including speakers and conference equipment, but also of must-have fashion items, such as their collection of colorful headphones (pictured), which combines impeccable sound quality with a trendy, urban look. Visit the first official Sennheiser store located near the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church, and get a glimpse of the future. Tauentzienstr. 17. T: 030 23630162. www.sennheiser.com

This legwear shop caters to both men and women with all kinds of socks, stockings, tights, knee-highs, and anything that will keep your legs warm. They also have a good selection of sports accessories and knitwear, as well as delightful kids’ socks. www.falke.com. Kurfürstendamm 36. T: 030.88553565. U Uhlandstraße. B4; Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Str. 12. T: 030.20647995. U Mohrenstraße. E3

New Era Flagship Store Wang, and Gas Bijoux. All items are personally selected by owner Rebecca Zehden on her many trips abroad. www.rebecca-berlin.de. Alte Schönhauser Str. 41. T: 030 34620780. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Talbot Runhof Designers Johnny Talbot and Adrian Runhof launched their label in Munich but have since gone global, branching out from glamorous evening gowns into everyday outfits and accessories. Discover the comprehensive range of dresses, separates, and knitwear, plus shoes and accessories in their Charlottenburg boutique. A brand hallmark is the complex, precise cuts and unusual seam placement used to create feminine, flattering silhouettes. Schlüterstr. 50. T: 030 23363170. www.talbotrunhof.com. U Uhlandstraße, S Savignyplatz. B4

UNIQLO Originally a chain of roadside stores in suburban Japan, this brand quickly became an Asian sensation and has now expanded to trendy urban hubs around the globe. Their Berlin flagship store has three floors of quality basics and fashion for women, men, and children. www.uniqlo.com. Tauentzienstr. 7. T: 030 29028260. U Wittenbergplatz. C4; Leipziger Platz 16. S+U Potsdamer Platz. E3; Rosenthaler Str. 42; S Hackescher Markt. F3

Wormland This men’s boutique carries the best German and international brands, catering to a demanding man and offering a variety of styles, from classy to casual, from business to sporty. Brands include 26 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U LY 2017

Calvin Klein, Black Kaviar, Lee Jeans, and Hugo Boss. www.wormland.de. Mall of Berlin. Direct entrance from Voßstraße. T: 030.229088200. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Zalando Outlet The popular online shopping fashion market has a large outlet store in Berlin, featuring 1000 square meters of fashion and accessories from the world's top brands, sold at even lower prices. www.zalando.de. Köpenicker Str. 20. T: 0800.3300996. U Schlesiches Tor. G4

SHOES & ACCESSORIES AIGNER The Munich label is one of Germany’s most important leather accessory brands, combining tradition and innovation with luxury classics. Choose between handbags, belts, and luxury travel luggage, as well as gift items such as corkscrews, keyrings and backgammon boxes.www. aignermunich.com. Kurfürstendamm 50. T: 030.88683638. U Uhlandstraße. B4

bagatt Milano Bagatt epitomizes the appreciation for beauty for which Italy is known. With its core philosophy of fine Italian craftsmanship, bagatt Milano applies

Looking for a new cap? This is the largest and fastest growing headwear producer in the world. There are more than 1000 styles over two floors, ranging from the classic baseball cap to modern designs, including their bestseller 59fifty, popular with the skater and hip hop crowd. www. neweracap.com. An der Spandauer Brücke 7. T: 030.27890578. Hackescher Markt. F2

Unützer Elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacturing are what sets Unützer apart from many other shoe brands. Founded 25 years ago, this shoe label stands for elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacture. The boots, pumps, and ballerinas are all made in a small town near Venice according to the century-old Italian tradition. www.unuetzer. com. Giesebrechtstr. 10. T: 030.88916710. U Uhlandstraße. C4

Volker Lang The success story of Volker Lang started in 1983 in Hamburg, when he designed his first handbag. A functional, pure look with playful details define his style, resulting in timeless purses, handbags, and other accessories loved by their owners for years and beyond the dictates of fashion. Mulackstr. 37. T: 030.284937004.

Trousers and top by annette görtz, Markgrafenstr. 42.

JULY 4 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 6, BERLIN

Station-Berlin www.premiumexhibitions.com

SHOPPING www.volker-lang-accessoires.de. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

JEWELRY & WATCHES Aris Diamond Since 1906, ARIS has been specializing in diamond jewelry, delivering everything from pendants, necklaces, and earrings, to fabulous engagement rings. Got a special occasion coming up? Check up their new shop in the Mall of Berlin for refined pieces. www.arisdiamond.com. www.mallofberlin. de. Leipziger Platz 12. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Askania Founded in Berlin in 1871, Askania manufactures watches made to last a lifetime, combining precision with style and a touch of history. Visit the store housed in an old ballroom in the Hackesche Höfe, and try on Berlin-inspired models like "Alexanderplatz" or "Tempelhof". www.askania. berlin. T: 030.364285150. Rosenthaler Str. 41/41, Hackesche Höfe, Hof 1. S Hackescher Markt. F2

ROLEX Boutique One of the most famous brands in luxury, Rolex has been making wristwatches since 1905. First created in England, the company soon moved to Switzerland, and its perfect timepieces are recognized worldwide as the ultimate symbol of elegance and refinement. www.rolex.de. www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.55669010. U Uhlandstraße. E2

Wempe

Pylones

One of the oldest family businesses in Germany is renowned for its passion for fine jewelry and watches, and in particular for its precision timepieces and attention to detail. www.wempe. de. Kurfürstendamm 215. See website for more locations. T: 030.8826878. U Uhlandstraße. C4; Friedrichstr. 82. T: 030.20399920. U Französische Straße. E3

These household products are created to add a spark to our daily lives, filling it with color and fun. The designers choose zoomorphic themes. www.pylones.com. Kurfürstendamm 225 (check website for other store locations). T: 030.92362488. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

HOME DÉCOR

Hussel

FOOD & GOURMET

For more than 60 years, Hussel has been a go-to destination for the sweet-toothed, Located in the historical stocking a mouthwatering assortment Hackesche Höfe, this store offers of chocolate pralines, truffles, and home décor items made from sweets, from fruit gummies to nougat to natural materials combined with marshmallows. Ready to enjoy, or perfect The quiet Suarezstraße Scandinavian design. Founded in Charlottenburg for gifting. Locations across the city, by a German-Danish pair in is the place to go for including in Alexa mall at Grunerstr. 20. Barcelona, this is the first store antiques. T: 030. 27576927. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3. to hit Germany. Potsdamer Platz Arkaden, Alte Potsdamer Str. www.homeonearth.com. Hackesche 7. T: 030. 25296724. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3 Höfe/Hof V, Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. Ritter Sport Bunte Schokowelt T: 030 2834354. S Hackescher Markt F2 The company store teaches about the process Promobo of chocolate production through an interactive Many of the fun offbeat, eye-catching design exhibit, while in the shop you can mix and objects, such as jewelry, handbags, and gifts match chocolate and fillings for that perfect and are made by hand in small workshops around personalized creation. www.ritter-sport.de. Germany, using plenty of recycled materials like Französische Str. 24 T: 030.20095080. bike inner tubes and cork. www.promobo.de. U Französische Straße. E3 Rosenthalerstr. 40–41, Hackesche Höfe 3 & 5. S Hackescher Markt. F2

Home on Earth

BEAUTY & WELLNESS Babor

Specializing in beauty driven by science, Babor creates skincare solutions for every woman’s unique needs. Top-sellers at the flagship store include vitamin-rich skin serums and deluxe foundations with a lifting effect. www.babor.de. Französische Str. 48. T: 030. 20622222. U Französische Straße. E3

Catherine Nail Salon The popular Catherine nailcare brand now has a nail salon here in Berlin. Stop by or make an appointment for some grooming time between shopping and sightseeing. www.catherine-berlin.de. Knesebeck Str. 35. T: 030. 55214475. U Uhlandstraße. E3

Frau Tonis Parfum The perfume boutique offers scents inspired by the city, like Pure Violet, originally composed for Marlene Dietrich. Take a scent test to find the fragrances that suit you best or ask customize your own bottle. www.frau-tonis-parfum.com. Zimmerstr. 13. T: 030.20215310. U Kochstraße. E4

Parfumsalon

All That Glam Are you ready to strut your stuff? From 4 to 7 July, Berlin Fashion Week returns for four packed days of catwalk models, showrooms filled with the latest must-have looks, trade shows connecting designers with buyers, and parties for the bold and beautiful. This twice-annual event celebrates Berlin’s transformation into an internationally acclaimed fashion hub, with German designers such as Marcel Ostertag, Lala Berlin, Marina Hoermanseder, and Maisonnoee attracting attention all over the world. And though it can’t compete with the reputations of Paris and Milan, it has found its niche providing a stage for up-and-coming talent. Even if Fashion Week events are open to industry professionals only, you can still get a taste of Berlin’s fashion flavor in the area around Mitte’s Weinmeisterstraße station, Mulackstraße, and Alte Schönhauser Straße, the best places to find boutiques and local designers. www.fashion-week-berlin.com

28 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U LY 2017

An exclusive perfume boutique that has been offering fragrances for more than five decades. The shop's selection include rarities and special aromas, all hand-picked by owner and perfume expert Mario Worms. www.parfumsalon.de. Uhlandstr. 173-174. T: 030.8827306. E3

ELECTRONICS Sennheiser This German brand stands for innovation in the world of audio electronics, from microphones and speakers to headsets and more. Sennheiser’s cutting-edge wireless headphones in particular are prized by pro musicians, DJs, music fans, and gamers alike. Because hearing is believing, test out all the latest models at the Charlottenburg store. www. sennheiser.com. Tauentzienstr. 17. T: 030.23630162. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

ADVERTORIAL

IT’S IN THE BAG

Put together your best summer looks with MICHAEL Michael Kors accessories and ready-to-wear.

ust in time for summer, British mega-model Jourdan Dunn has joined as the newest face of the Michael Kors The Walk campaign, showcasing the trendsetting street style of fashion icons and it girls from around the world. A worldrenowned designer of luxury accessories and ready-to-wear, the Michael Kors brand has long been a favorite not only amongst models like Jourdan but also everyday fashionistas. Both the signature Michael Kors Collection and MICHAEL Michael Kors labels offer a luxury lifestyle for the consummate jet setter that is as sophisticated as it is indulgent and as glamorous as it is modern. Jourdan joins other style icons in the multi-series The Walk campaign such as actor and singer Hailee Steinfeld, actress Kelly Rohrbach, singer, songwriter, dancer, and

performance artist Jillian Hervey of LION BABE, and model Hikari Mori. Her bag of choice for the campaign is the Mercer Dome Satchel in an upbeat shade of sunflower yellow, customized with everything from gold-tone keychains and a floral appliqué handbag strap, and paired with the best of summer’s MICHAEL Michael Kors ready-to-wear pieces and accessories. For more insights on Jourdan’s style secrets, visit DestinationKors.com. Get everything you need for your own fresh summer look, such as the fun and flirty Mercer Flora Patchwork tote bag, at the two Michael Kors stores in Berlin. Kurfürstendamm 219, T: 030 81825760 Rosenthaler Str. 37, T: 030 24088690 www.michaelkors.de

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SHOPPING MAPS

ADVERTORIALS

AUDIO EXPERIENCE

Visit us Monday to Saturday 10 am to 8 pm

Sennheiser Store Berlin

Tauentzienstr. 17 - 10789 Berlin S-Bahn/U-Bahn Zoologischer Garten U-Bahn Wittenbergplatz

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More than a century of precision craftsmanship comes to the Ku'damm in the form of Germany's first Rolex Boutique. The flagship store offers a distinctive experience, including an exclusive setting and world-class service.

This exclusive perfume boutique has been offering extraordinary fragrances since the 1960s. Mario Worms is an expert in perfume counseling, offering advice on the perfect scent for every client, and the shop's selection includes rare bottles and unusual aromas. Uhlandstr. 173-174. T: 030 8827306 www.parfumsalon.de

Michael Kors is a world-renowned designer of luxury accessories and ready-to-wear, offering a lifestyle for the consummate jet setter that is as sophisticated as it is indulgent and as glamorous as it is modern. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. Kurfürstendamm 219. T: 030 81825760 www.michaelkors.com

Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030 55669010 rolexboutique.berlin@wempe.de 30 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U LY 2017

Just a little suggestion, should your arm get tired Wonderful to wander Bikini Berlin

CONCEPT SHOPPING MALL Budapester Straße 42 – 50 10787 Berlin www.bikiniberlin.de

SHOPPING MAPS COS

GUESS

MANGO

Reno

SWAROVSKI

Deichmann

H&M

MARC CAIN

Replay

Taschenparadies

Denim & Supply by

HALLHUBER

Marc O’Polo

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THOMAS SABO

Ralph Lauren

Hollister

MASSIMO DUTTI

Runners Point

Tom Tailor

DESIGUAL

HUGO BOSS

Mavi

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TOMMY HILFIGER

Dogo Shoes

Hunkemöller

MAX & CO.

daughters

Trigema

INTIMISSIMI

Mephisto

Salamander

Triumph

Jack & Jones

MEXX

Sarar

TWIN-SET

JD Sports

Muji

Schiesser

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KARL LAGERFELD

NAVYBOOT

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Nike

Schuh Bode

Vans

Konplott

Oakley

SHOE CITY

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Olymp

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PANDORA

SNIPES

Wigglesteps

Einblick Optik Engelsrufer & Co. Fashion & Accessories

Esprit

7 FOR ALL

C&A

Eterna

MANKIND

Calvin Klein Jeans

FALKE

Airfield

CALZEDONIA

ARIS Art of

Casano

Diamond

Change

ARMANI JEANS

CHRIST

Backlash

CINQUE

Bershka

Claire’s

BIJOU BRIGITTE BREE

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Levi’s

French Connection

LIEBESKIND

Passionata

Sportalm Kitzbühel

WORMLAND

Frisco Jeans

Lief!

Peak Performance

SPORTSCHECK

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Liu Jo

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ZERO

Clarks Ecco

GANT

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Cloppenburg

STRELLSON

Codello

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Look 54

Pepe Jeans

Sunglass Hut

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Selected shops for the Savvy Shopper 32 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U LY 2017

Berlin

A PLACE FOR SHOPPING ARKADEN SHOPS geöffnet Mo.–Sa., 10–21 Uhr POTSDAMERPLATZ.DE

SHOPPING MAPS

Knesebeckstr. 35-37. T: 030 55214475 www.catherine-berlin.de

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This young Berlin label stands for fashion with an attitude for both men and women. With rule-breaking contrasts and rebellious elements set against a timeless soul, Be Edgy provides young and cheeky individuals with perfectly cut leather jackets and accessories, all made with high-quality leather. Bring in discount code “whereXbeedgy” and get 10% off – valid until the end of 2017.

Savignyplatz

Zeppelin Mode Goldsteg

Cimp Schmuckdesign Paper & Tea Buffalo KANTSTRASSE SavignySchuhtick platz

BE EDGY

Zoologisch er Garten

GOETHESTR.

JOACHIMSTHALER STR.

SHOP STOP

Make a good first impression with beautifully manicured hands. This hotspot for hand and nail cosmetics hinges upon expert beauticians and top-quality products from the Catherine Nail Collection. Delivering to beauty salons worldwide, the brand is renowned in nail design and presents their selection now in their own studio just off Berlin’s luxury shopping strip, the Ku’damm.

MEINEKELSTR.

Leibnizstr. 60 T: 03030831810 www.beatricevontresckow.com

CATHERINE NAIL SALON

STR.

Beatrice creates opulent, bold and colorful clothes for women who like to turn heads. Sumptuous fabrics and detailed embroidery communicate Beatrice's international upbringing and form the hallmarks of the collections' jackets, blouses and dresses.

R. UHLANDSTR.

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SHOP STOP

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Marooush LIETZENBURG

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Bleibtreustr. 27. T: 030 8839639 www.be-edgy.de SHOP STOP

SHOP STOP

UNÜTZER

Elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacturing are what sets Unützer apart from many other shoe brands. Founded 25 years ago, this shoe label quickly earned international fame thanks to the excellent quality of its products, which are made in a small town near Venice according to the century-old Italian tradition.

0039 ITALY With a unique assortment of creative yet classic designs, the 0039 Italy store pays a tribute to Italian fashion with clothes for every occasion, shape and age. From light and colorful blouses to sleek overcoats and much more, the brand only uses Italian fabrics to create stylish and timeless collections as inspiring as Italy itself.

Schlüterstr. 51. T: 030 88708483 www.0039italy-shop.com 34 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U LY 2017

Gold chains, tassels, and striking colors are some of the shoes’ decorative elements, and materials include the whole range of luxury, from the finest calf leather to exotic skins, including crocodile and ostrich, all personally selected by Fritz Unützer himself. Walk into the Charlottenburg boutique, and try on a pair of boots, pumps, or ballerinas, all perfect accessories to any glamorous and feminine outfit.

Giesebrechtstr. 10/corner Kurfürstendamm. T: 030 88916710 www.unuetzer.com

SHOPPING MAPS

ADVERTORIALS

SHOP STOP

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Friedrichstadt-Palast

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The exclusive Parisian department store brings French charm to Berlin with five floors of fashion, accessories, beauty products and delicacies. Galeries Lafayette is located in the Quartier 207, where you can shop at Butlers, Cashmere House, Le Nails, Le Tanneur, Manon Chocolaterie, Max&Co, Opera´s, and Sathea.

Friedrichstr. 76–78. T: 030 209480. galerieslafayette.de SHOP STOP

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Beauty meets science at this skincare institute. Owner and cosmetics expert Christiane Lingner offers high-level treatments such as deluxe facials, skin analyses, purifying sessions, manicures, pedicures, as well as intensive and strengthening treatments for the gentlemen. Head to the flagship store for vitamin-rich serums and foundations with a lifting effect.

Französische Str. 48. T: 030 20622222 www.babor-berlin.de

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FRAU TONIS PARFUM This perfume manufactory has been described as Berlin’s most unique perfumery. Try classics such as Linde Berlin, or Pure Violet, Marlene Dietrich’s favorite fragrance. For something more personal, join other scent aficionados from all over the world and create your own, private perfume. Zimmerstr. 13 (Checkpoint Charlie). T: 030 20215310 www.frau-tonis-parfum.com www.wheretraveler.com 35

SHOPPING MAPS SHOP STOP

ADVERTORIALS

SHOP STOP

COTÉLAC The French have that certain je ne sais quoi when it comes to style. Laid-back, breezy, comfortable, and nonetheless elegant, the Cotélac collections are created by Raphaëlle Cavalli and capture that quintessential French style in clothing and accessories for both women and men. Brand hallmarks are special dyes and folding techniques, inlays, unique prints, and exquisite detail when it comes to treating fabrics.

www.cotelac.fr

With over 100 boutiques in France and abroad, you can check out the latest Spring-Summer 2017 collection in their store on Mulackstraße, Berlin’s so-called designer central.

Mulackstr. 6. T: 030 53604074 www.cotelac.fr

SHOP STOP

NEW ERA FLAGSHIP STORE Looking for a new cap? The world's leading headwear brand is now the official headwear of the NBA. Check out the latest New Era NBA collection at the New Era store in Berlin.

An der Spandauer Brücke 7. T: 030 27890578 de.neweracap.eu

HACKESCHER MARKT AND MITTE

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Alte Schönhauser Str. 41. T: 030 34620780 www.rebecca-berlin.de SHOP STOP

HOME ON EARTH Barcelona-founded Home on Earth offers products combining sustainability and Nordic design, each produced without wasting any resources. Using almost exclusively natural materials such as bamboo, wool, coconut, mango and hemp. The store opened its first branch in Germany in December 2015.

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With a unique boudoir atmosphere, this concept store is a harmonious medley of European and American designers, including Alexander Wang, Vera Wang, Tibi and Alice+Olivia, and all items are personally selected by owner Rebecca Zehden on her many trips abroad.

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ASKANIA

PROMOBO

Combining precision with style, ASKANIA makes elegant, classic timepieces to last a lifetime. Visit their flagship store, housed in a landmarkprotected ballroom in the famous Hackesche Höfe complex, to try on Berlin-inspired models like the Alexanderplatz and the Tempelhof watches.

Pick up something totally unique at Promobo, a shop concept dedicated to fun, offbeat, eyecatching design objects. Many of the home décor items, fashion, and gifts are made in small workshops around Germany using recycled materials.

Rosenthaler Str. 40/41, Hackesche Höfe, Hof 1. T: 030 364285150 www.askania.berlin

Rosenthalerstr. 40–41, Hackesche Höfe 3 & 5. T: 030 30347671 www.promobo.de

SAND WASH SUN-BLEACHED SUMMER

SIGHTSEEING | THE GUIDE Clockwise from left: The Binz pier; beach in Usedom; Stralsund; typical houses and lighthouse in Sylt. Bottom of page: cliffs in Rügen.

Vitamin Sea Humming “Oh! I do like to be beside the seaside,” Annabelle Mallia made her way to these sunny beach destinations.

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Old Market Square, Gothic Town Hall, and imposing, 13th-century St. Nicholas’ Church. There are two bridges and several ferry services connecting Stralsund to the island of Rügen, the country's largest island. It’s best known for its beaches and white chalk cliffs made famous by painter Caspar David Friedrich, like the King’s Chair in Jasmund National Park and those at seaside resort Sassnitz. In Binz you can stroll along the four-kilometer-long beach promenade, lined with elegant villas, or enjoy a fried-fish sandwich in the center of the pretty town.

Nearby Prora still bears testament to the Nazis' plans to create the world’s largest resort, made of a three-mile-long cement block of six-storey buildings lining the sand, fortunately hidden behind trees. Prora has recently made the news as it is currently being renovated and transformed into a luxury beach resort. Berliners with a little more time (and money) to spend will flock to the North Sea and the spectacular island of Sylt. The five-hour drive is rewarded with never-ending beaches, dunes, cliffs, thatched-roofed houses, and the Wadden Sea mudflats – best experienced barefoot.

The lakes around Berlin are stunning, but there are times I just long for the surf and the salty sea spray. That’s when I follow the locals as they make their way north to the popular holiday regions on the Baltic Sea. Once called “Berlin’s bathtub”, the island of Usedom, just over two hours away, is the closest beach, featuring seaside resorts lined up one after the other, the most famous being Heringsdorf and Zinnowitz. With over 40 kilometers of white shores, piers stretching far out into the water, and supposedly the most hours of sunshine in Germany, this island is perfect for long walks and rejuvenation. A bit further north, but still on the mainland, is the Hanseatic town of Stralsund. Overlooking the harbor is the award-winning Ozeaneum (www.deutsche-meermuseum.de) that takes local fish and presents them in gigantic tanks by the thousands, giving the impression you are passing under the endless expanse of the sea. Afterwards, explore the town’s UNESCO World Heritage center with its

FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

MAJOR SIGHTS The “Alex” TV Tower The 368m- (1027ft)-high TV tower of Alexanderplatz can be seen from almost any point in the city and has been iconic of Berlin ever since it was built by the GDR in 1969. The giant steel-clad sphere atop houses a revolving restaurant and café as well as a viewing platform. The elevator ride lasts 40 seconds. Arrive early to avoid lines. Daily 9am–midnight (Nov–Feb from 10am). €13/8.50. www.tv-turm.de. Panoramastr. 1a. T: 030.24757537. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Brandenburg Gate MUST SEE The definitive Berlin icon, Carl Gotthard Langhans’ Neoclassical triumphal arch has witnessed the city’s best and worst moments, from the military parades of the Third Reich to the Wall being raised and torn down. Formerly behind GDR borders, today the gate acts mainly as the backdrop for festivals, New Year’s Eve parties, and tourist snapshots. U Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3

Charlottenburg Palace The summer home of Sophie Charlotte, wife of King Friedrich I of Prussia, reflects the grandeur of the Hohenzollern family. Begun in 1695, the luxury Baroque complex consists of a main building with a central cupola and two side wings, added in later years, that enclose a courtyard. The picturesque park surrounding the castle includes a formal French-style garden, English garden with pond and statues, belvedere, and mausoleum. The castle hosts temporary art and history exhibitions. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm). €12/8. www.spsg.de. Spandauer Damm 20-24. T: 030.9694200. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

plaza; Daimler City, home to a large shopping mall; and the Manhattan-style Beisheim Center building. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Reichstag and Foster’s Glass Cupola MUST SEE In the last 100 years, the massive neo-Renaissance building, now the seat of German Parliament, has been bombed, set on fire, wrapped by artist Christo, and renovated by Lord Norman Foster. Climb the glass cupola for a 360-degree view of the city, then gaze down at parliament in session. The plenary hall can be visited only on guided tours. Cupola: Daily 8am–midnight by appointment only. Free. Register on website; it is recommended to do so at least three days prior to your visit. Audio tours available. www.bundestag.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030.22732152. U Bundestag. D3/E3

HISTORIC SITES

stretches of the Berlin Wall in an area of the city where its impact was particularly dramatic, then delve into its storied history at the documentation center. Documents and original radio broadcasts from both East and West chronicle one of Germany’s saddest historical periods. Open-air exhibition: 8am-10pm daily; documentation center: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. Free. www.berliner-mauergedenkstaette.de. Bernauer Str. 111. U Bernauer Straße. E2

Checkpoint Charlie During the Cold War, Checkpoint Charlie was the main gateway between East and West. Shortly after the Wall went up, US and Soviet tanks faced each other on this spot. Today, the crossing point acts primarily as a backdrop for tourist photographs. U Kochstraße, U Stadtmitte. E3/E4

East Side Gallery

Yadegar Asisi created a panorama of divided Berlin, presenting everyday life against the backdrop of the Wall on an imaginary day in the 1980s. The artist's aim was to show how the population came to terms with the situation, and the result gives onlookers a glimpse of East German life. Daily 10am–6pm. €10/4. www.asisi.de. Friedrichstr. 205. T: 0341.3555340. U Kochstraße. E3/E4

While West Berliners loved to express their creativity by drawing graffiti and painting on the Wall, East Berliners were never allowed to use the dividing structure as a canvas. To make up for all the artless years, artists from 21 countries were called upon in 1990 to decorate one mile of the Wall's eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery. Mühlenstraße. S+U Warschauer Straße, S Ostbahnhof. G4

Berlin Wall Documentation Center

Holocaust Memorial

Asisi’s Wall Panorama

MUST SEE Walk along one of the few surviving

MUST SEE Berlin’s tribute to the victims of the

Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche The church’s bombed-out bell tower has been an anti-war memorial and symbol of West Berlin ever since its ruins were restored to their present state in 1957. The old church now hosts an exhibition of before-and-after photos documenting its and Ku'damm's former splendor. Inside, look up to admire what remains of the old mosaic. Daily 9am–7pm. www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. Breitscheidplatz. T: 030.2185023. U Zoologischer Garten, Kurfürstendamm. C4

Nikolaiviertel and Knoblauchhaus The Nikolaiviertel is where Berlin was born, and the area still retains its ancient character, although most of the buildings in the narrow medieval alleys are replicas of destroyed originals that dated back to the 1200s. The late-Gothic Nikolaikirche, Berlin’s oldest surviving building, is now a museum. Other points of interest include the Ephraim Palais Museum and the Biedermeierstyle Knoblauchhaus, a 19th-century middleclass townhouse that escaped WWII damage. Knoblauch Haus: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. www.knoblauchhaus.de. Poststr. 23. T: 030.240020171. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Potsdamer Platz Before the war, Potsdamer Platz was the city’s beating heart, with department stores, banks, internationally known theaters, dance halls, and cafés. WWII bombs obliterated 80 percent of the square, which was left in limbo for a few years and then enclosed in a no-man’s-land between the Wall and barbed wire fences. The square came back to life in the 1990s as a modern reinterpretation of its original self. Divided in three slices, it includes the Sony building with its central

The Iridescent Island Peacocks in Berlin? Can it be that the bird with iridescent feathers resides in the capital too? Yes! On Peacock Island, or Pfaueninsel for the locals, a small island on the Havel river in southwest Berlin. In the 19th century, the animal-loving Prussian king Frederick William III sponsored the island’s transformation from a Hohenzollern summer palace into a menagerie and park, which housed 900 animals at one point. Today, aside from the peacocks, numerous native and exotic birds and plants live on the island, and Berlin’s oldest rose garden is located here as well. Reachable by a short ferry ride from near Wannsee station, the island is a charming, idyllic destination where visitors can explore paths and enjoy the blooming flora chaperoned by free-ranging peacocks. Should you get hungry, visit the small shack in the middle of the island for sandwiches, drinks, and ice cream. Nikolskoer Weg. T: 0331.9694200. www.spsg.de.

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SIGHTSEEING Berlin Zoo and Aquarium MUST SEE One of the city’s main attractions and the oldest zoo in Germany includes pavilions that provide ample indoor space, making the venue suitable for rainy days. The zoo boasts the largest number of species and total animal residents in the world. The aquarium, one of the largest in Europe, features large tanks with piranhas, sharks, and alligators. Daily 9am–6:30pm. Zoo or aquarium: €14.50/7.50, under-4s free. Combined ZooAquarium ticket: €20/10. www.aquarium-berlin.de, www.zoo-berlin.de Hardenbergplatz 8. T: 030.254010. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Currywurst Museum Learn about Berlin’s most famous street food at this small but entertaining museum. Delve into Currywurst history, discover the secrets of its yellow sauce in the "spice chamber," and watch movies starring the delicious sausage. Daily 10am–8pm. €11/7, under-6s free. www.currywurstmuseum.de. Schützenstr. 70. T: 030.88718647. U Kochstraße. E4

Furry Friends If it’s fauna you desire, the Berlin Zoo (Hardenbergplatz 8, www.zoo-berlin.de) is one of the best places to experience all creatures great and small. Hosting more than 20,000 critters from some 1500 species, it is one of the most comprehensive animal collections in the world. Favorites are the monkey house, nocturnal section, sea lion quarters, and kids' petting zoo as well as the two pandas that just arrived last month. And because Berlin was once a divided city, the zoo has an eastern counterpart, the Tierpark (Am Tierpark 125, www.tierpark-berlin.de). Covering a wide area around the Friedrichsfelde Palace in Lichtenberg, this is one of the largest parks in Europe and features massive enclosures hosting large groups of elephants and ungulates, a great indoor feline exhibit, and the ever-popular walk-in lemur forest.

Karl-Marx-Allee Berlin’s best example of GDR-era Neorealist architecture is a 90m- (295ft-)wide boulevard built between 1950 and 1960 to provide housing for thousands of residents and to act as a backdrop for military parades. The street quickly became a source of national pride for East Germany, due to its residential tower blocks inspired by Moscow and by Stalin’s ideal style: nationalistic in form but socialist in content. The boulevard is an important architectural showcase. U Weberwiese, Strausberger Platz. F3/G3

Stasi Prison MUST SEE Between 1945 and 1989, more than 20,000 people suspected of opposing the East German political system were arrested by the Stasi (secret police) and brought to this custody building. In its first and darkest years, the prison’s cellars, known as “the submarine,” were used to inflict psychological torture on the inmates, while the relatively more humane cells are on the upper floors, next to a seemingly never-ending corridor lined with interrogation rooms. Tours in English on Wed, Sat, and Sun at 2:30pm in winter, daily at 11:30am and 2:30pm in summer. €6/3. en.stiftung-hsh.de. Genslerstr. 66. T: 030.98608230. S Landsberger Allee, then Tram M5 to Freienwalder Str., then 10-minute walk. Off Map

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Topographie des Terrors MUST SEE On the site of the former headquarters of the SS and the Third Reich’s most important offices, this permanent exhibition recounts the tragic history of Nazi forced labor, focusing on the central institutions of the SS and Third Reich police and the crimes they committed throughout Europe. A segment of the Wall runs along the grounds. Daily 10am–8pm. Free. www.topographie.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 8. T: 030.2545090. U Kochstraße. E4

The Wall Museum

Have your picture taken with Angela Merkel, Albert Einstein, One Direction, or a host of other famous names in entertainment and politics. And, yes, there's even a wax Adolf Hitler, depicted as a little man standing in despair in his bunker during his final days. Daily 10am–7pm (Aug until 8pm). €23.50/18.50, discounts if you book online. Combined Berlin Dungeon, LEGOLAND, and Sea Life tickets available. www.madametussauds.com. Unter den Linden 74. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

TOURS & GUIDED WALKS Berliner Unterwelten (Underground Tours) Since 1997, the Berlin Underworlds Association has been offering regular tours of underground structures and subterranean complexes that are otherwise inaccessible. Cold War nuclear shelters, Hitler’s underground fortress, escape routes to the West, and WWII bunkers are just some of the adventures on offer. From €10. www.berliner-unterwelten. de. Brunnenstr. 105. T: 030.49910517.

Located right next to East In 1995, artist Christo Berlin Music Tours Side Gallery, the Wall Museum wrapped up the Choose from a score of musicrecounts the history of the Berlin Reichstag in 100,000 themed tours, including a visit to Wall through historic videos and sq.m. of polypropylene the famous Hansa Studios, a musical documentaries. Thtough this fabric. walk through Prenzlauer Berg, a David multimedia exhibition, visitors get a Bowie journey, and a classic trek through glimpse of life behind the Iron Curtain. the colorful history of Berlin music. Booking www.wallmuseum.com. Mühlenstr. 78-80. required. From €12. www.musictours-berlin.com. S Warschauer Straße. E2/F2

KIDS & FAMILIES Berlin Dungeon Much like the London Dungeon, the Berlin Dungeon provides a terrifying interactive journey through the city's dark past via a sometimesspooky, actor-led experience. Visitors are taken through attractions such as the old library of Berlin, a plague-infected street, a torture chamber, a secret court, and more. Not recommended for young children. Daily 10am–6pm (winter weekends until 5pm). €20.50/12.30(discount when booking online). Under-14s must be accompanied by adult. Combined LEGOLAND, Madame Tussauds, and Sea Life tickets available. www.thedungeons.com. Spandauer Str. 2. S+U Hackescher Markt. F3

CooLTourings Segway Tours Covering Berlin’s top 20 sightseeing highlights, CooLTourings takes individual visitors or large groups on an exciting ride aboard a Segway human transporter, a fun and fast way to explore the city. www.seg-berlin-ways.de. T: 030.26321381.

Fat Tire Bike Tours Comfort comes first on Fat Tire Tours, whose company concept was created around its curvy bicycles with soft seats, individually adjusted handlebars, and, obviously, fat tires. Tour themes vary. The all-in-one city bike tour is particularly popular. Times vary seasonally. Call ahead in winter. From €25. www.fattirebiketours.com. Panoramastr. 1a.T: 030.24047991.

Holocaust is as big as a soccer field and consists of 2711 tombstone-like slabs of equal size and varying heights, placed on uneven ground to convey a sense of claustrophobia and disorientation. The underground information center provides a timeline of Jewish persecution. Accessible 24 hours a day. Free. www.holocaust-mahnmal.de. Cora-Berliner Straße. T: 030.2639430. U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Madame Tussauds

Trabi World For a quintessential Berlin tour experience, hop inside real Trabants, the iconic cars of the former GDR. Visitors drive their personal Trabis, while, via the car’s radio, the group leader provides historical and quirky facts. Three different tours available, lasting one or two hours. €30-50. www. trabi-world.de. Zimmerstr. 97. T: 030.30201030. orate one mile of the Wall's eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery. Mühlenstraße. S+U Warschauer Straße, S Ostbahnhof. G4

POTSDAM Biosphäre Potsdam This tropical indoor garden features a greenhouse with more than 20,000 plants, including a palm grove and mangrove swamp, as well as animals such as iguanas, parrots, geckos, frogs, and butterflies. Daily Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, from 10am on weekends and holidays. €11.50/9.80. Under-3s free. www.biosphaere-potsdam.de. Georg-HalemannAllee 99. T: 0331.550740. Tram 96 from Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

Filmpark Babelsberg In the early 1900s, the Babelsberg film studios produced some of the most important films of the silent era, including Metropolis, until the facilities were taken over by the Nazi regime to produce political propaganda. Today, the studios are still in use, but part of the complex has been turned into a theme park, with old sets, stuntmen, special effects, and children’s sections dedicated to popular TV characters. Daily 10am–6pm from April

to October, closed Mon in May and on Mon and Tues in September, on 6 and 13 October. €21/14, under-4s free. www.filmpark-babelsberg.de. Grossbeerenstr., Potsdam-Babelsberg. T: 0331.7212750. S Griebnitzsee. Off Map

Sanssouci MUST SEE The sumptuous Rococo castle of Potsdam's Sanssouci was commissioned in 1745 by Frederick the Great, who wanted "a place to be without cares." The king of Prussia employed the finest architects of the day to design the Baroque park, the Schloß placed above terraced vineyards, the more sober New Palace, and a few other pavilions scattered in the park. Daily 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm); Mon closed. €15/11. www.spsg. de. An der Orangerie 1, Potsdam. T: 0331.9694200. S Potsdam or regional train from Zoologischer Garten to Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

Free Entrance!

RIVER TRIPS Exclusiv Yachtcharter This boat tour company offers yacht and luxury boat tours around Berlin, including a bridge tour and many different cruises through Berlin’s network of canals and lakes. www.exclusiv-yachtcharter.de. T: 030.43666836.

Stern und Kreis Schiffahrt Choose from 30 different boat tours along the city’s rivers and canals, including bus-boat combination tours of the Brandenburg region. buchung.sternundkreis.de. T: 030.5363600.

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Zentraler Festplatz at the Kurt-Schumacher-Damm

Open: Mon, Tue, Thr 3pm-10pm, Wed 3pm-11pm, Fri 3pm-12mn, Sat 2pm-12mn, Sun 1pm-10pm

www.volksfest-berlin.de

COURTESY OF MIKE'S SIGHTRUNNING

A Berlin Run Through Time For sporty travelers keen on – quite literally – running all around Berlin when they visit, Mike’s Sightrunning is the way to go. Led by enthusiastic athlete and history buff Michael Horstmann, the fast tour on foot weaves past both big sites and hidden gems. It spans 6 to 24 kilometers depending on guests’ time and interests, also making informative stops for photos. A public tour in English departs from the Brandenburg Gate every Saturday at 10 am, and private customized tours take place throughout the week, including a “Berlin Night Running” tour to see the city lit up, and a “Mauerlauf” (Berlin Wall Run) that stretches along the infamous former divide. Reserve a tour online at www.mikes-sightrunning.de.

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES | THE GUIDE

Hidden Gems Under The Summer Shade Serene Tseng strolls through the shady greens and concrete of Berlin, finding hidden gems of contemporary art. There's no shortage of museums in Berlin, but what to do when warm summer weather beckons us outside? Luckily, the city is scattered with sculpture parks where you can admire art outdoors. The Haus am Waldsee’s (p. 47) large sculpture park is worth a visit for its idyllic location by the Waldsee pond alone. The peaceful garden is adorned with works from contemporary artists based in Berlin, with outdoor exhibitions that change throughout the year. One of the featured artists is Karl Hartung, who came to fame during the postwar era. Hartung often uses wings in his sculptures, incorporating smooth lines with sweeping lines, and gazing at his tall bronze works evokes the feeling of defying gravity. In a different interpretation of the conventional definition of contemporary sculpture is the work of Daniel Pflumm, who effortlessly fuses 42 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U LY 2017

advertising with no-name branding, prompting the viewer to question their ease to automatically fill in the blank advertisement with a brand name. What seems like a pile of dumped, broken refrigerators is actually a sculpture by Thomas Rentmeister, while the mysterious large-sized, folded-steel structure by the pond is actually a wild boar by Lynn Chadwick. The Georg-Kolbe-Museum (p. 46), once the residence of the sculptor and now a museum entirely dedicated to 20th-century and contemporary art, is also home to an outdoor sculpture garden. Here, visitors can walk the same paths along the same pine trees Kolbe once did, where his bronze sculptures and

fountains now pepper the landscape. Potsdamer Platz may be a popular destination for contemporary architecture, but there’s also an abundance of contemporary sculpture in its surroundings. Most of the work comes from the Daimler Art Collection, which includes big names such as Keith Haring and Nam June Paik, whose work is vividly neon, rhythmic, and not to be missed. In classic Keith Haring style, The Boxers are two colorful large-scale figures engaging each other in playful, punny punches. As a cherry on top, when the outdoor Daimler Collection pieces aren’t enough, be sure to visit the nearby free-of-charge Haus Huth to find the rest of the pieces in the collection.

KEITH HARING, UNTITLED ("BOXERS"), 1987, STAHL, LACK/STEEL, LACQUER, 493 X 331 X 280 CM, DAIMLER ART COLLECTION, STUTTGART/BERLIN, PHOTO BY RAINER JORDAN, BERLIN; GEORG KOLBE MUSEUM, PHOTO BY ENRIC DUCH; LYNN CHADWICK, COURTESY OF HAUS AM WALDSEE, PHOTO BY BERND BORCHARDT.

Clockwise from left: Keith Haring, Untitled ("Boxers"), 1987, Potsdamer Platz; The Georg Kolbe Museum; This photo: Beasts by Lynn Chadwick. Inset, below: Colorful hay stacks at the Haus am Waldsee.

MUSEUMS Altes Museum Berlin’s collection of classical antiquities, housed inside a breathtaking Neoclassical building. Take in the mosaic floor of Hadrian’s villa, a wealth of Greek sculptures, and a number of Etruscan and Roman finds. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

movement. Browse through pieces of furniture, housewares, ceramics, and glassware from this fascinating artistic period. To 23 Jul: Kieser, Posters. Celebrating the innovations of one of Germany’s most prolific graphic designers. Open Tue–Sun 10am–6pm www.broehan-museum.de. Schloßstr. 1a. T: 030.32690600. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Brücke Museum

Founded in Dresden in 1905, the Die Brücke movement drew inspiration from primitive art and expressed extreme emotion and political opposition through lively, exaggerated color. Alte Nationalgalerie Features the paintings of such artists as Emil Nolde A splendorous collection of 19th-century art. and Erich Heckel. To 3 Sep: The Artists of Die Brücke To 30 Jul: Small Masterpieces features masterpieces – Paintings, Illustrations, and Prints. An interchanging small and miniature in size. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm selection of prints and paintings, in (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. celebration of the museum’s 50th €12/6 with exhibition, €10/5 museum anniversary. Wed–Mon 11am–5pm. only. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. €5/3. www.bruecke-museum.de. 1–3. T: 030.266424242. Bussardsteig 9. T: 030.8312029. S+U Friedrichstraße, Berlin has more than 440 U Oskar-Helene-Heim. Off Map S Hackescher Markt. E3 contemporary art

galleries, which makes it the number one gallery city in all of Europe.

An extensive collection of Old Masters’ paintings, a section dedicated to ancient coins, and many works of Roman and Byzantine art adorn the museum’s impressive interior, built by Ernst von Ihne in 1904. To 5 Nov: Syria Antiqua – Coins and Monuments on Museum Island. Showcasing coins from ancient Syria and artefacts of its prowess. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.smb.museum. Am Kupfergraben. T: 030.266424242. U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Bröhan Museum

Deutsches Historisches Museum

BERLIN 1937, COURTESY OF MÄRKISCHES MUSEUM.

Starting in 1966, collector Karl Bröhan amassed hundreds of Art Nouveau and Art Deco objects and various paintings from the Berlin Secessionist

ST THE 21

open daily:

Jan - Jun 12 p.m. - 8 p.m. Jul - Aug 10 a.m. - 8 p.m. Sep - Dec 12 p.m. - 8 p.m.

(24th December closed)

Last entrance: 7 p.m. Potsdamer Platz entrance: Leipziger Platz 7

DDR Museum

Learn about daily life in the former East Germany at this hands-on museum. Closets filled with GDR (DDR in German) fashion and a Trabant (the GDR car) are just some of the items on display, while photographs illustrate Communist habits, such as collectively potty-training babies or going on nudist holidays. Mon–Sun 10am–8pm, Sat until 10pm. €7/4. www.ddr-museum.de. Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 1. T: 030.847123731. S Hackescher Markt, U Alexanderplatz. E3

. JUL - 08. OCT

EXHIBITION | 07

O R D A LDÍY:. S A L V AC D ENTURY DAN

Hômmage á S. Dalí by DaVial

Bode Museum

INCL. SPECIAL

Infos: 0700 - 325 423 75**| Tickets: www.DaliBerlin.de

(**0,14€/ Min. from a landline, mobile communications vary, max 0,42€/ Min.) *only in combination with the entrance fee. Cannot be combined with other offers. Valid until September, 30th 2017.

With over 450 exhibits from private collections this permanent exhibition provides general insight into Dalí’s virtuous mastery in almost all art techniques in Berlin’s lively city centre.

www.daliberlin.de

MUST SEE Learn about the milestones in German history from the Roman occupation of the Germanic areas to the present day. To 31 Oct: The

On The Cusp Of A Nightmare It is chilling to think that a mere 80 years ago, the Nazi dictatorship took over all aspects of Germany. By then, Germany had already hosted the 1936 Olympic Games, and propaganda was rampant. Many Berliners accepted these strong-armed changes and adapted to them, content in the calm before the storm, but the question remains: Did the Berliners recognize that they lived in a criminal society even before the Holocaust began? Berlin 1937 - In the Shadow of Tomorrow, a multimedia exhibition showing at the Märkisches Museum (p. 44), uses original objects, photographs, documents, sound recordings, and film to explore the treacherous normality of the Nazi regime and how it affected the everyday lives of Berliners. Until 14 January.

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Invention of Press Photography. Following the history of photography, told through the Ullstein press photo collection and the Berliner Illustrierte Zeitung. Daily 10am–6pm. €8/4 (under-18s free). www.dhm.de. Unter den Linden 2. T: 030.203040. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Deutsches Technikmuseum MUST SEE At the museum for all things technology, the old locomotives and aviation rooms are the most popular attractions, while a Rosinenbomber, a 1948 Berlin Airlift aircraft, is mounted on the museum’s roof. A hands-on section allows kids to conduct experiments. To 2 Jul: Oceans – An Expedition in Unexplored Depths. Featuring photographs of the enormous blue world. To 9 Jul: 100 Years of Zündapp: Industrial Photos by Albert Renger-Patzsch. A glimpse into the German motorcycle giant’s factory and Germany’s industrial history. Mon–Fri 9am–5:30pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €8/4. www.sdtb.de. Trebbiner Str. 9. T: 030.902540. U Möckernbrücke, U Gleisdreieck. E4

The Gay Museum (Schwules Museum)

A world of exhibitions

One of the world’s largest and most significant institutions for archiving, researching, and communicating the history and culture of LGBTQ communities. Changing exhibitions take diverse approaches to lesbian, gay, transgender, bisexual, and queer biographies and concepts in history, art, and culture. To 28 Aug: Read Simone de Beauvoir! A question on the discussion of post-gender equality and women’s empowerment. To 9 Oct: Winckelmann – The Divine Gender. Celebrating the influential and mysterious art historian Johann J. Winckelmann’s 300th birthday. Sun–Mon, Wed–Fri 2–6pm, Thu 2–8pm, Sat 2–7pm. €6/4. www.schwulesmuseum.de. Lützowstr. 73. T: 030.69599050. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

Jewish Museum MUST SEE Daniel Libeskind’s architectural jewel, shaped as a deconstructed Star of David, explores millennia of German Jewish history, including the alternating glories and persecutions of the community. To 2 Jul: Cherchez la femme. Wig, Burqa, Wimple. Presenting the opinions of head and body covering, contrasted with current fashion, religion, and the secular. Daily 10am–8pm, Mon until 10pm. €8/3. www.jmberlin.de. Lindenstr. 9-14. T: 030.25993300. U Hallesches Tor, U Kochstraße. E4

Märkisches Museum Documents, photos, books, and weapons walk visitors through 750 years of Berlin history in a neoGothic setting. To 14 Jan: Berlin 1937. In the Shadow of Tomorrow. Examining the false sense of normalcy Berlin felt in 1937, right before the Nazi seizure of power. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3 (under-18s free; free entry first Wed of month). www.stadtmuseum.de. Am Köllnischen Park 5. T: 030.24002162. U Märkisches Museum. F3

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Martin-Gropius-Bau

Berlin

MUST SEE One of the city’s best art and photography exhibition spaces and an important example of early 20th-century architecture, the imposing building combines Italian Renaissance elements with local features, such as mosaics of allegorical figures. To 9 Jul: Foto.Kunst.Boulevard. Tracing the exciting history of tabloid photography. From 22 Jul: Lucian Freud: Closer. Featuring fifty etchings of one of Britain's most renowned artists. To 31 Jul: Limits of Knowing. A sensory exploration of reality by fusing art and

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science. From 29 Jul: Regina Schmeken. Bloody Soil. Scenes of NSU Crimes. Photographs of crime scenes, commemorating the victims of the hate crimes. To 28 Aug: Franz Kafka. The Entire Trial. On show is the entire handwritten manuscript of The Trial. To 5 Nov: The Luther Effect. Protestantism – 500 Years in the World. Honoring the Reformation’s 500th anniversary, telling the story of its legacy worldwide. To 3 Jul: Juergen Teller. Enjoy Your Life! Featuring 250 works of one of the most soughtafter music and fashion photographers. Wed–Mon 10am–7pm. Prices vary by exhibition. www.gropiusbau.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 7. T: 030.254860. U Kochstraße. E4

Durchführung: Institut für Plastination e.K., Heidelberg

museum

Menschen Museum The internationally popular touring exhibition Body Worlds showcased anatomist Gunther von Hagens’ plastination process, which preserves body parts and reveals their inner structures. The permanent Berlin exhibition shows 200 body parts amd 20 whole-body preparations, focusing on specific organs and diseases. Daily 10am–7pm. www.memu.berlin. Panoramaplatz 1. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Museum Berggruen MUST SEE A can’t-miss for Picassophiles. The Spanish painter is the star of this Charlottenburg museum, which boasts dozens of rooms filled with his paintings. The collection encompasses 75 years of his life and all of his creative phases. Expanded in 2013, the museum also features many famous works by Matisse, Klee, Giacometti, Van Gogh, Cézanne, and many more. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 1. T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Museum of Photography Diverse and comprehesive exhibitions curated from the Berlin Art Library’s vast photographic collection are housed in a Neoclassical 1909 building built for the Prussian army’s officer corps, whose lower two floors are occupied by the Helmut Newton Foundation. To 2 Jul: ‘The Field Has Eyes…’: Images of the Surveillant Gaze. A presentation of surveillance, from the 16th to 20th century. To 2 Jul: Watching You, Watching Me. A Photographic Response to Surveillance. Raising important questions of the blurred lines between public and private in our surveillance culture. To 19 Nov: Mario Testino. Undressed / Helmut Newton. Unseen / Jean Pigozzi. Pool Party. Featuring Testino's fashion photos, Pigozzi's snapshot-like images of swimming pool guests, and a selection of Newton's own work. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.266424242. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3–C4

Alexanderplatz Directly at the TV Tower

www.MeMu.berlin

Take a walk through

Berlin’s history

Museum für Naturkunde

From Bismarck to the Berlin Wall

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Home to the world’s largest dinosaur skeleton, the natural history museum also features extensive collections of shells, insects, and prize-winning mounted animal dioramas. To 5 Nov: Sielmann! A focus on the lynx, wisent, and beaver, all native wildlife, to celebrate the legendary nature broadcaster Heinz Sielmann's would-be 100th birthday. Tue–Fri 9:30–6pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3. www.naturkundemuseum-berlin. Invalidenstr. 43. T: 030.20938591. U Naturkundemuseum. E2

Germany from all Ages

Neues Museum MUST SEE The 3300-year-old bust of Queen Nefertiti is the museum’s top attraction. Examine a world-famous Egyptian collection that includes

Berlin

Permanent Exhibition | Daily 10 am–6 pm ww.dhm.de

www.wheretraveler.com 45 DHM_AZ_Bismarck_Metropolis_57x124_WhereBerlin_45L.indd 09.05.17 1 15:43

many important papyruses, while hundreds of artifacts relate early human history. Badly damaged during WWII and left abandoned until the 1980s, the museum reopened in 2009. From 6 Jul: China and Egypt. Cradles of the World. A parallel exploration of two cultures and their innovations that spanned millennia. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.neues-museum. de. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Pergamon Museum One of Berlin’s main attractions, the Pergamon houses the outcome of Germany’s early-20thcentury archeology excavations. The imposing Ishtar Gate of Babylon with its glazed blue bricks is a feast for the eyes, as are the Market Gate from Myletus, the reconstructed interiors of an Assyrian palace, and many other testimonies to the ancient world. Altar room closed for restoration through 2019. From 14 Jul: Religious Wonder - Biblical Traditions in the Islamic World. Manuscripts from late Antiquity to Modernity, originating from the Middle East. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. S Hackescher Markt. E3

The German Spy Museum Delve into the world of espionage with two floors of interactive exhibits covering some 3500 years of espionage history. Highlights include presentations on James Bond and other famous

Futurism Now Futuristic, glowing sculptures carved in smooth, flowing lines. Evocative of the set design in Metropolis, these were the characteristics of Rudolf Belling’s sculptures. As one of the most important modern German sculptors of the avant-garde 20th century, Belling’s artistry spanned more than 60 years and traversed numerous styles, from expressionism to new objectivity, to futurism and abstraction. One of the most notable qualities of his beautiful sculptures was his usage of multiple viewing perspectives and negative space as part of the whole composition. Sculptures and Architectures, showing at the Hamburger Bahnhof (this page), will feature 80 of Belling’s works, including his famous wood sculpture Triad, along with drawings, models, films, photographs, and figures. Until 17 September.

46 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U LY 2017

fictitious spies and a laser maze that tests your agility to break into – or out of – compromising locations. €12/8. Daily 10am-8pm. www.deutschesspionagemuseum.de. Leipziger Platz 9. S+U Potsdamer Platz E3

berlinischegalerie.de. Alte Jakobstr. 124-128. T: 030.78902600. U Hallesches Tor. E4

ART GALLERIES

The permanent exhibit features more than 400 works, most from private collections, by the Surrealist painter, with a focus on drawing, illustration, and film. Dalí fans explore new perspectives of the artist’s life and work. Daily noon–8pm (10am–8pm in summer). €12.50. www. daliberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 7. Toll number: 0700.3254237546. U Potsdamer Platz. D3

C/O Berlin

MUST SEE Contemporary art and photography has finally reopened in the Amerika Haus, which housed the American library during the Cold War Stasi Museum era. To 2 Jul: Harf Zimmermann. Hufelandstraße. The GDR’s Ministry of State Security, the Stasi, has Zimmermann’s documentation of the strangely been described as one of the most repressive bourgeois quarter in the middle of East intelligence and secret police agencies Berlin. To 2 Jul: William Klein. to ever have existed. Explore the Photographs and Films. A retrospective agency’s headquarters and learn of the venerable artist, highlighting about their spying techniques, inc. his fashion photography and films cameras hidden in watering cans Russia has held parts Daily 11am–8pm. €10/5. www. or inside fake trees. Open Mon–Fri of the Pergamon’s 10am–6pm, Sat & Sun noon–6pm. co-berlin.org Hardenbergstr. 22–24. collection since the end of WWII, despite €5/4. www.stasimuseum.de. T: 030.28444160. S+U Zoologischer a treaty to return Ruschestr. 103. T: 030.5536854. Garten. C4 them. U Magdalenenstraße. Off Map

Dalí – The Exhibition

Berlinische Galerie A modern art collection of 5000+ works of German and Eastern European paintings. To 11 Sep: Faraway Focus – Photographers Go Travelling (1880-2015). Photography as a way to explore the other and unfamiliar around the world. To 9 Oct: Christine Streuli – Works by the Fred-Theieler-Prize 2017 recipient. To 21 Aug: John Bock. Bock’s work celebrates the absurdity in the world. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm. €8/5 (€10/7 during exhibitions). www.

Deutsche Bank KunstHalle With an emphasis on paper and photography, the Deutsche Bank’s art collection is a stroll along the timeline of modern art. Every year, the bank pays tribute to young artists by organizing an international prize. From 7 Jul: Roberto Burle Marx: Brazilian Modernist. A comprehensive exploration of Burle Marx's oeuvre, spanning landscape architecture, painting, sculpture, theater design, textiles, and jewelry. Daily 10am–8pm. €4/3. www.deutsche-bank-kunsthalle.de. Unter den Linden 13/15. T: 030.2020930. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Gemäldegalerie – Old Masters Painting Gallery MUST SEE One of the finest collections of European art from the 13th to the 18th centuries. Lots of Dutch and Flemish painters, including Rembrandt and Vermeer, and a vast collection of Italian Renaissance art, including Botticelli, Titian, and Canaletto. From 17 May: In a New Light: Works in the Central Hall. Over 70 rarely-seen works on show in the usually-vacant central hall. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Matthäikirchplatz 50. T: 030.266424242. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Georg-Kolbe-Museum An idyllic garden houses the former studio of German Secessionist artist Georg Kolbe, who used the human body as an expression of the human spirit, challenging the role of sculpture as a representation of mythological or heroic symbolism. The museum displays a wide selection of works and hosts frequent exhibitions. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3. www.georg-kolbe-museum.de. Sensburger Allee 25. T: 030.3042144. S Heerstraße. Off Map

Hamburger Bahnhof The permanent collection of this former railway station includes a selection of works from the Friedrich Christian Flick Collection, and the many temporary exhibitions focus on painting and sculpture from the past 50 years, as well as videos, music, and design. To 3 Sep: Adrian

RUDOLF BELLING: KOPF IN MESSING, 1925, MESSING, 33,3 X 22,5 X 19 CM, NATIONALGALERIE, STAATLICHE MUSEEN ZU BERLIN | © BPK /NATIONALGALERIE, SMB / VG BILD-KUNST, BONN 2016STAATLICHE MUSEEN ZU BERLIN | © BPK /NATIONALGALERIE, SMB / VG BILD-KUNST, BONN 2016.

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

For Explorers!

Piper. The Probable Trust Registry: The Rules of the Game #1-3. An intimately interactive installation of promises and principles. To 17 Sep: moving is in every direction. Environments – Installations – Narrative Spaces. To 17 Sep: Rudolf Belling. Sculptures and Architectures. Highlighting the oeuvre of the classical modernism sculptor. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €14/7. www. smb.museumInvalidenstr. 50-51. T: 030.266424242. U Naturkundemuseum, S Hauptbahnhof. D2

Haus am Waldsee Since 1946, this Zehlendorf villa has organized contemporary art exhibitions that cover a wide spectrum of media and styles. Each show is complemented by events – lectures, concerts, and performances – for children and adults. The multi-sensory sculpture garden is one of the city’s finest and worth a visit on its own. For an unusual yoga class, try Yoga Amidst the Art, offered Wed 9-10:30am. €7/5. www.hausamwaldsee.de. Argentinische Allee 30. T: 030.8018935. U Krumme Lanke. Off Map

Helmut Newton Foundation Before dying in a car accident on Sunset Boulevard in 2004, the art photographer donated all of his work to his hometown of Berlin. Best known for his nude photography of American stars, Newton now has an entire museum dedicated to his oeuvre. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm, Thu until 8pm. €10/5. www. helmutnewton.com. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.31864856. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

Trebbiner Str. 9, 10963 Berlin www.sdtb.de /deutschestechnikmuseum

Liebermann Villa on Lake Wannsee CL904 MUST SEE The former summer residence of artist Max Liebermann, co-founder and head of the German Secessionist movement. Before being dismissed and banned by the Nazis in 1933, Liebermann painted around 200 works in this villa, some of which are on display in his studio on the upper floor. €3 plus museum entry. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm (11am–5pm in winter). €7/4 (€6/4 in summer). www.liebermann-villa.de. Colomierstr. 3. T: 030.80585900. S Wannsee. Off Map

Hundreds of listings every month

me Collectors Room Thomas Olbricht created this space to bring together other international art collectors and to organize exhibitions, workshops, and concerts. The upper floor houses his “cabinet of curiosities.” To 27 Aug: Sigmar Polke – The Editions. Highlighting 200 works from the notable contemporary photographer and painter. Tue–Sun noon–6pm. €7/4. www.meberlin.com. Auguststr. 68. T: 030.86008510. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

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Commercial Galleries Galerie Michael Schultz, 1 to 29 Jul: Burkhard Held & Raphael Denis. Mommsenstr. 34. www. galerie-schultz.de; Galerie Georg Nothelfer, 1 to 31 Jul: Sommeraccrochage - Artist of the Gallery. Corneliusstr. 3. www.galerie-nothelfer. de; Galerie Albrecht, 4 Jul to 2 Sep: Michael Kenna: Abruzzo and Confessionali. Charlottenstr. 78. www.galeriesusannealbrecht.de; JRGallery, 8 Jul to 1 Sep: El Bocho, Nina Maron, and Astrid Köhler among others: Group Exhibition. Goethestr. 81. www.jrgallery.de; Janinebeangallery, 8 Jul to 26 Aug: Grigori Dor: Falling Empire. Torstr. 154. www.janinebeangallery.com; Salongalerie "Die Möwe", 8 Jul to 23 Sep: Armin Mueller-Stahl: People Images. Shakespeare's Girls and Women. Auguststr. 50b. www.salongalerie-die-moewe.de.

Berlin www.wheretraveler.com 47

museum für gestaltung klingelhöferstr. 14, d-10785 berlin

daily except tue., 10 am – 5 pm www.bauhaus.de

museum für gestaltung berlin 22.3.– 23.10.2017 jasper morrison. t h i n g n e s s

THE GUIDE | DINING

BENEDICT INTERIOR: PHOTO BY MARCUS BRAUMANN; BENEDICT FLORENTINE, COURTESY OF BENEDICT; ANNA BLUME: CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 VIA FLICKR USER STEPHANIE VACHER; SWEETHEARTS: PHOTO BY HILDA HOY.; COFFEE CUP: CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 VIA FLICKR USER STEPHANIE VACHER.

Clockwise from left: the interior of Benedict; "Florentine" breakfast at Benedict; étagere at Anna Blume; breakfast at Sweethearts.

It’s Brunch Time It’s the most important meal of the day, so make it a good one. Check out Hilda Hoy’s favorite spots for brunching around the city. The brunch trend has hit this city hard over the last couple of years, and the bar is continually being raised to capture Berliners’ hearts (and stomachs). So don’t just rely on any old place to get your bacon, egg, and pancake fix – head to one of these special spots for a brunch to remember. For true breakfast and brunch devotees, the place to go is Benedict (Uhlandstr. 49, www. benedict-breakfast.de), a chic, stylish 24-hour breakfast joint that opened its doors in Charlottenburg at the end of last year. That’s right – all the best brunch favorites, available any time of day or night. Benedict Berlin is the first international outpost of a popular Israeli chain and the menu is accordingly diverse, including Iraqi, Israeli, and Russian breakfast specialties alongside such classics as luscious pancakes with chocolate or fruit, French toast, and the Full English. And, of course, the namesake eggs Benedict, served with toppings like smoked salmon, spinach, or

deluxe style with asparagus and shrimp. A number of dishes come with a mimosa cocktail for true brunch decadence. Another trendy spot with bountiful culinary influences is Sweethearts (Mittelweg 50, www.sweetheartsberlin.com), tucked into an old yellowbricked building on a Neukölln side street. While freelance creatives tap away on their laptops in the upstairs coworking space, on the ground floor is the friendly, sun-drenched, flower-accented Sweethearts café serving delectable brunch options seven days a week. Think roasted veggies on butter-fried bread with salsa verde and poached eggs, cheesy German spätzle noodles served with turmeric-

marinated bacon, or Southern-style biscuits with gravy, sausage, and creamy scrambled eggs. On sunny days, aim to snag a seat in the green garden out front. And last but not least: Though brunch foods from abroad have been the peak of the current trend, there’s something to be said for the enduring appeal of the classic Berlin café breakfast, which is typically a DIY platter of cheese and spreads served with a bread basket. Try the deluxe version at Prenzlauer Berg’s ever-popular Anna Blume (Kollwitzstr. 83, www. cafe-anna-blume.de), which comes piled temptingly onto a tiered étagere, featuring layers of cheese, cold cuts, fruit, smoked salmon, and more. www.wheretraveler.com 49

DINING

DINING KEY Alc (à la carte): Prices are per person for three courses (excl. drinks) €: under €15. €€: €15–€40. €€€: €40–€80. €€€€: over €80. Restaurants listed in Fine Dining have at least one Michelin star. Letter/ number codes correspond to map at back of book. Recommended by Die Goldenen Schlüssel Deutschland e.V./U.I.C.H. Les Clefs d’Or.

FINE DINING For a complete list of Berlin's Michelin-starred restaurants, visit wheretraveler.com/berlin.

5 – Cinco by Paco Pérez Catalan star chef Paco Pérez’s very first endeavor outside Spain is this Michelin-starred restaurant in Das Stue Hotel. His aim is to tickle all five senses with avant-garde taste experiences that take full advantage of the flavors and ingredients of his home country. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.5-cinco.com. Drakestr. 1. T: 030.3117220. S Tiergarten. C3

Facil Situated in a glass atrium of The Mandala Hotel and ringed by the courtyard’s trees, Facil has mastered understated elegance in both its décor and cuisine. Double-Michelin-starred chef Michael Kempf is particularly masterful with seafood when creating his fine menus. €€€€. Mon–Fri L&D. www.facil.de. Potsdamer Str. 3. T: 030.590051234. S Potsdamer Platz. D3

closed Sun. www.paulysaal.com. Auguststr. 11–13. T: 030.33006070. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Reinstoff Chef Daniel Achilles didn’t earn two Michelin stars by playing it safe. The two nightly dinner menus at Reinstoff – one focused on regional tastes, the other incorporating influences from farther afield – are successful experiments in exciting, avantgarde cuisine. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.reinstoff.eu. Schlegelstr. 26c. T: 030.30881214. U Naturkundemuseum, S Nordbahnhof. E2

CHARLOTTENBURG– WILMERSDORF Café Wintergarten im Literaturhaus German/Austrian. Classic elegance permeates the

high-ceilinged rooms of this café, reminiscent of turn-of-the-century literary salons. Snag a table in the greenhouse-like vestibule, or settle down by one of the grand windows to enjoy breakfast, bistro-style meals, or a glass of wine. €. Daily B, L, D. www.literaturhaus-berlin.de. Fasanenstr. 23. T: 030.8825414. U Uhlandstraße. C4

Duke Restaurant French. The Ellington Hotel’s signature restaurant is

all about French haute cuisine with modern, creative twists. Both the à la carte options and the menu of

monthly specials illustrate the restaurant’s dedication to top-quality best meat, seafood, and regional produce. €€€. Mon–Sat L&D. www.duke-restaurant. com. Nürnberger Str. 50-55. T: 030.683154000. U Augsburger Straße. C4

Paris Bar French. Many celebrities – including

Madonna, Sophia Loren, and Robert De Niro – have patronized this West Berlin institution over the years. The bistro-style menu includes French classics like oysters and steak-frites, though the legend alone is enough to draw guests. €€€. Daily L&D. www.parisbar.net. Kantstr. 152. T: 030.3138052. S Savignyplatz. C4

Wilson's – The Prime Rib Restaurant American. Juicy, high-quality meats cooked the American way and served with salads, potatoes and extravagant desserts. €€€. www.restaurant-wilsons. de. Crowne Plaza Berlin City Centre. Nürnberger Str. 65. T: 030.21007000. U Augsburger Straße. C4

FRIEDRICHSHAIN Matreshka Russian. Simple, homey Russian fare. Borscht, meat-

stuffed pelmeni dumplings and their vegetarian equivalent, vareniky, a selection of Georgian wines, and, of course, plenty of vodka. €. Daily L&D. Boxhagener Str. 60. T: 0163.9870767. S Ostkreuz. H3

Fischers Fritz Pure, straightforward luxury is the formula at this restaurant in the Regent Berlin Hotel. One of just a handful of Berlin restaurants to earn two Michelin stars, Fischers Fritz will not fail to impress with its elevated cuisine and finely honed service. €€€€. Daily B & D. www.fischersfritzberlin.com. Charlottenstr. 49. T: 030.20336363. U Französische Straße. E3

Horváth Austria-born chef Sebastian Frank built a reputation – and earned a Michelin star – with his highly creative, oftentimes minimalist use of seasonal ingredients, from sunchokes to candied parsley root to spruce needles. Wooden interior and lovely outdoor patio. €€€. Wed–Sun D. www.restaurant-horvath.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 44a. T: 030.61289992. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Hugos On the 14th floor of the InterContinental Hotel, Hugos offers panoramic views of the city along with Michelin-starred French-German cuisine, with a well-earned reputation as one of Berlin's go-to gourmet destinations. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.hugos-restaurant.de. Budapesterstr. 2. T: 030.26021263. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer The Hotel Adlon restaurant boasts two Michelin stars and a well-earned spot in the upper echelon of Berlin’s finest restaurants. No detail is spared in the creation of an unforgettable dining experience, presided over by chef Hendrik Otto. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.lorenzadlon-esszimmer.de. Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2661196. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Pauly Saal The chic, hip décor is matched by a menu of equally creative German cuisine, which was awarded a Michelin star in 2013. Meat dishes made from local game are a highlight. €€€. Daily L&D, 50 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U LY 2017

We All Scream For Ice Cream Ice cream shops are so ubiquitous in Berlin, it takes a unique concept to stand out from the masses. And a unique concept Woop Woop has indeed: Every cup of their decadent ice cream is frozen to order, right before customers’ eyes, in a cloud of liquid nitrogen. Though the Woop Woop shop near Rosenthaler Platz in Mitte is open year ‘round, it’s the summer months when their lip-smacking flavors like marzipan cherry, salted caramel brownie, grapefruit basil, and hazelnut and toasted banana really hit the spot. The flavors change every couple of weeks, incorporating chunks of brownie, cheesecake, or cookies, fresh fruit, nuts, caramel, and more before the whole delicious mess is whipped up and frozen in seconds in the -196° C nitrogen. For a real treat, get your ice cream in a fluffy cone made of fresh waffle. Can’t make it over to Rosenthaler Platz? Look for the Woop Woop ice cream truck parked all summer long near Checkpoint Charlie at Friedrichstr. 48. Rosenthaler Str. 3. T: 030.22474836. www.woopwoopicecream.de

DINING Transit Asian Fusion. The long menu of tapas-style

Thai and Indonesian dishes, each just a few euros, allows diners to cobble together a meal encompassing a wide range of tastes and ingredients. Second location in Mitte at Rosenthaler Str. 68. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.transit-restaurants.com. Sonntagstr. 28. T: 030.26948415. S Ostkreuz. Off Map

KREUZBERG Adana Grillhaus

kebab. €€. Daily L&D. www.hasir.de. Adalbertstr. 10. T: 030.6142373. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Kimchi Princess Korean. “Let them eat kimchi,” implores the website

for this hip, popular Korean restaurant. The house specialty is the meaty tabletop barbecue to be split between two or more diners, which comes with all the traditional side dishes including, of course, kimchi. €€. Daily D. www.kimchiprincess.com. Skalitzer Str. 36. T: 0163.4580203. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. F4

Spindler

Even in colder months, the chic, post-industrial interior – built in the 1800s as an army bakery – is unforgettable too. On Fridays and Saturdays, the spot transforms into a club from 23pm. €€€. Daily D. www.spindlerklatt.com. Köpenicker Str. 16–17. T: 030 319881860. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Volt German. The name of this restaurant and the edgy, post-industrial interior remind diners that the space was once an electricity station. Chef Matthias Gleiss has edge, too – he was named Newcomer of the Year in 2011 by a jury of top Berlin chefs. Refined yet exciting German food is his calling card. €€€. Mon– Sat D. www.restaurant-volt.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 21. T: 030.61074033. U Kottbusser Tor. G4

German/European. Head chef Nicolas Gemin, formerly of The invention of the menu of Turkish dishes allows for Michelin-starred Pauly Saal, wows Currywurst was accidental. In the complete Turkish experience diners with upscale twists on 1949, a housewife , with sights, smells, and tastes experimented with curry German-European cuisine: Think to reflect the cuisine that has powder she got from Brit cured salmon with beet pickles and found its way into the heart and soldiers and obtained ricotta, octopus and chorizo, or lamb soul of Berlin. A high priority for the famous sauce. shoulder with smothered Jerusalem Adana Grillhaus is to ensure a familiar artichokes. Also serves breakfast and and welcoming atmosphere. Second weekend brunch. €€–€€€. Mon–Fri L, location in Friedrichshain-Kreuzberg at daily D. www.spindler-berlin.net. Paul-Lincke-Ufer Manteuffelstr. 86. €€ Daily L&D. 42. T: 030.69598880. U Kotbusser Tor, www.adanagrillhaus.de. Skalitzerstr. 105. U Schönleinstraße. F4 T: 030.82409600. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4 €.

Austrian/German. The Mitte restaurant boasts an elegant interior and a view on stately Gendarmenmarkt. Styled after Vienna's famed coffeehouses, AIGNER adds a local touch with dishes like Brandenburg roast duck. €€€. Daily L&D. www. aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de. Französischestr. 25 T: 030.203751850. U Französische Straße. E3

Hasir

Spindler & Klatt

Barist

Turkish. The little Turkish grill house rumored to be

Asian-European fusion. Restaurant, lounge, and

the birthplace of the döner kebab in the 1970s has since expanded to six locations around the city. The original restaurant, near Kottbusser Tor, is a very popular spot for trying the full spectrum of what Turkish cuisine has to offer – far beyond the

club in one, Spindler & Klatt makes full use of its prime river location. In the summer, the waterside terrace is a memorable spot to enjoy the menu of Pan-Asian dishes, from fine sushi to sizzling tuna steaks and dry-aged Irish steaks hot off the grill.

Turkish. This all-encompassing

MITTE AIGNER am Gendarmenmarkt

Italian. Healthful, filling breakfasts, quick business lunches, happy-hour cocktails, and dinner with friends in the red-bricked arches under the trains at S Hackescher Markt station. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.barist.de. Am Zwirngraben 13. T: 030.24722613. S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

REST A U R A N T BAR & C L U B EV E N T S

Monday to Friday: 12.00 – 23.00 CET Saturday and Sunday: 18.00 – 23.00 CET Make your Reservation: Tel. 030 / 278 909 95 55 www.the-grand-berlin.com

www.wheretraveler.com 51

DINING Borchardt German/French. A favorite hobnobbing spot

of the rich and famous, Borchardt is popular for both its food (especially the schnitzel) as well as the opportunity to see and be seen. €€. Daily L&D. www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Französische Str. 47. T: 030.81886262. U Französische Straße. E3

Beef Bull Club Steaks. Juicy, delicious steaks and high-quality meats on the bustling, lively Platz at Hackescher Markt. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.beefbullclub.de. Neue Promenade 7. T: 030.27582849. S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

Chicago Williams BBQ American. A culinary ambassador for the American

BBQ tradition, Chicago Williams specializes in meat and more meat. Order a combo of sticky ribs, pulled pork, or jerk chicken, and sides like coleslaw, macaroni and cheese, or mashed potatoes. €€. Daily D. www.chicagowilliamsbbq. de. Hannoversche Str. 2. T: 030.28042422. U Oranienburger Tor. E2

Cookies Cream Vegetarian. A whole new kind of vegetarian

dining. First, there’s getting there, which feels more like going to an underground club than a restaurant. Then there’s the food, vegetarian eating gone haute cuisine, thanks to celebrity chef Stephan Hentschel. €€–€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.cookiescream.com. Behrenstr. 55. T: 030.27492940. U Französische Straße. E3

Crackers German. Heinz “Cookie” Gindullis' latest entry into the hybrid club/restaurant space features an innovative bar that serves experimental drinks and a rotating roster of international and local DJs four nights a week from 9pm until late. www.crackersberlin.com. Friedrichstr. 158. T: 030.680730488. U Französische Straße. E3

Grand Rocka International. Inside, the restaurant takes over the historic arched space under S Hackescher Markt station, featuring a grand old wooden bar that lives up to the restaurant’s name, and out front, the terrace spills out across the busy Platz. The large international menu ranges from steaks to pizzas to burgers. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.grandrocka.de. Am Zwirngraben 6–7. T: 030.24638606. F2

The Grand German. The sophisticated supper club, with origins reaching back to 1842, boasts an American grill that makes its international array of steaks among the best in town. The upstairs lounge (and, in particular, its cocktails) attracts a decadent late-night scene. €€€. Mon–Fri L, Daily D. www.the-grand-berlin.com. Hirtenstraße 4. T: 030.278909555. Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Grill Royal German/French. A beloved destination of

Mitte’s well-dressed creative scenesters. There’s more to the menu than just grilled meat, though the steaks are indeed excellent. Lobster cocktail, ceviche, and oysters are just a few other additions to the fine menu. €€€. Daily D. www.grillroyal.com. Friedrichstr. 105b. T: 030.28879288. S Friedrichstraße. E3

Hummus & Friends Israeli. Creamy, rich, and fluffy hummus with warm pita bread might just be Israel’s national dish, and with the opening of Hummus & Friends, it’s easy to get in the German capital too. Also on the menu are

52 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U LY 2017

fresh, colorful salads and side dishes like roasted whole cauliflower with tahini sauce. The bar even serves kosher Israeli wine. €. Daily L&D. www.hummus-and-friends.com. Oranienburger Str. 27. T: 030.55471454. S Oranienburger Straße. F2

India Club Indian. Just steps away from the Brandenburg Gate is this luxurious hideaway for high-end North Indian cuisine, boasting an ambience that is both elegant and colorful. A renowned chef flown in from New Delhi lends his masterful touch to the menu of extravagantly spiced curries and tandoori specialties. €€€. Daily D. www.india-club-berlin.com. Behrenstr. 72. T: 030.20628610. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Jolly Chinese. Just across the water from Museum Island, Jolly’s location couldn’t be better for a tasty Chinese meal in between sightseeing stops. Bring an appetite to try as many of the steamed dim sum dumplings as possible before moving on to the menu’s extensive variety of Sichuan-style and Cantonese dishes. Traditional Peking duck is the house specialty. €€. Daily L and D. www.restaurant-jolly.de. Am Kupfergraben 4/4A. T: 030.20059500. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

AUTHENTIC NORTH INDIAN CUISINE BEHRENSTRASSE 72 | 10117 BERLIN OPEN DAILY: 18.00 – 23.00 BOOK YOUR TABLE: +49 30 2062 8610

Käfer Dachgarten-Restaurant of the German Bundestag German. The Reichstag is for more than sightseeing. Thanks to the culinary team behind Käfer, it’s also a fine dining destination. On the roof of the famed landmark, Käfer boasts splendid views and refined, modern German cuisine. Advance reservations required. Due to security precautions, each guest must provide official photo I.D. upon entry. €€€. Daily B, L, D. www.feinkost-kaefer.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030 2262990. U Bundestag, S Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3.

WWW.INDIA-CLUB-BERLIN.COM

Berlin’s most delicious restaurants

Katz Orange German/European. Housed in a former brewery, the warm, stylish interior decoration of this restaurant is met with a menu of top-quality, updated comfort foods. The kitchen’s pride and joy is the “Slow Food” section of the menu, starring 12-hour, sous vide roasted pork neck, ribs, or lamb shoulder. €€. Daily D, closed Sun. www.katzorange.com. Bergstr. 22. T: 030.983208430. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

Maximilians

Nante Eck German. With delightful dishes from Berlin’s

traditional cuisine and a menu that changes every month, the Nante Eck restaurant offers a refined cuisine made with fresh local ingredients. Specialties include extra-big currywurst with potato and cucumber salad and Flammkuchen pies. Very long beer menu. €. Daily L&D in summer.

©ISTOCK

German. Maximilians recreates the feel of a cozy Bavarian beer hall with hearty food and plentiful beer to match. Meaty specialties include pork knuckle served with dumplings and sauerkraut, freshly baked pretzels, and the tempting “Munich sausage parade.” From the four kinds of Paulaner beer on tap to the warm hospitality, Maximilians goes to great lengths to transport a piece of Bavaria to the heart of Mitte. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.maximiliansrestaurant.de. Friedrichstr. 185–190. T: 030.20450559. U Stadtmitte. E3

Berlin www.wheretraveler.com 53

DINING www.nante-eck.de. Unter den Linden 35. T: 030.22487257. U Französische Straße. F2

Neumond German. The sight of Neumond’s historic and

refined counter gives a hint of the restaurant’s simple elegance in both interior design and menu. This includes a vast selection of courses ranging from classic to special and a variety of drinks to choose from. Sweet tooth? do not miss the white chocolate mousse. €€. Borsigstr. 28, Mitte. Daily L and Tue-Sun D. www.neumond-restaurant.de. T: 030.2857505. S Nordbahnhof. E2

PRENZLAUER BERG I Due Forni

Experience selected Szechuan and Cantonese foods in modern ambience The best Peking duck in town Am Kupfergraben 4 / 4A 10117 Berlin daily opened 12:00-23:00

Reservation: 030 - 200 595 00 www.restaurant-jolly.de

Italian. The atmosphere in this pizza hall is raucous and the service notoriously surly, but that doesn’t keep the pizza-loving crowds at bay. The generously sized and traditional-style thin-crust concoctions are famed around the city. €. Daily L&D. Schönhauser Allee 12. T: 030.44017333. U Senefelderplatz. F2

Lucky Leek Vegetarian. It’s not luck that makes Lucky Leek so good, but rather a dedication to creating topnotch gourmet cuisine that is also 100-percent vegan and incorporates international tastes. The small but comprehensive menu changes regularly. €€. Wed–Sun D. www.lucky-leek.de. U Senefelderplatz. F2

SCHÖNEBERG

Servus Bavaria! Delicious german food and drinks, at Maximilians – the place to be.

Renger-Patzsch German. All dark wood and white tablecloths, the look at Renger-Patzsch is as simple and elegant as is its menu of refined German-Austrian cuisine. Meat dishes are a specialty, as are the Alsatian Flammkuchen, bases of thin dough baked with topping combos like apple and blood sausage. €€. Daily D. www.renger-patzsch.com. Wartburgstr. 54. T: 030.7842059. U Eisenacher Straße. D5

TIERGARTEN Café am Neuen See and Biergarten German/European. A waterside location in the middle of the Tiergarten park makes this a lovely spot come warm weather or chilly. Besides satisfying meals, visitors can enjoy a seat in the beer garden or a row on the lake in summer or glowing fireplaces and games of Eisstockschiessen – a Bavarian ice game similar to curling – in the winter. €. Daily B, L, D. www.cafeamneuensee.de. Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930. S Tiergarten. C3

Café Einstein Stammhaus

Friedrichstr. 185–190 U-Bahnhof Stadtmitte www.maximiliansberlin.de

54 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U LY 2017

German/Austrian. The 1878 Neo-Renaissance villa housing this Viennese-style coffee house makes for a lovely spot for a meal or to while away the afternoon with a coffee and a good book in oldtimey ambiance. Recommended: a slice of the café's famous apple strudel paired with a Wiener Melange coffee. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.cafeeinstein.com. Kurfürstenstr. 58. T: 030.26391918. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

FREILUFTKINO FRIEDRICHSHAIN: COURTESY OF FLK FRIEDRICHSHAIN; FREILUFTKINO KREUZBERG: COURTESY OF FLK KREUZBERG.

THE GUIDE | ENTERTAINMENT

Watching The Stars Under The Stars Rachel Stern stakes a spot in the ground of Berlin’s best outdoor theaters, catching a variety of films while the sun sets. In July, the late sunset prompts Berliners to stay out longer and catch an evening film at one of the city’s Freiluftkinos (open air theaters). Refreshingly located in lush parks, these screen everything from cult classics to newer blockbusters, often in English or with English subtitles. If you’re keen on catching several films, purchase a five- or 10-screening pass from www.freiluftkinoberlin.de that’s valid at the first three theaters on our list. Nearly every night of the summer, Freiluftkino Friedrichshain (Landsberger Allee 15, www.freiluftkino-berlin. de) screens films across its sprawling grassy amphitheater that’s able to accommodate

nearly 2000 people. Guests can stake their own seat in the ground or on a picnic bench if they arrive early enough, either enjoying their own food and drink, or the cantina’s comfort food choices. On 5 July, join in on the eerie excitement of the silent vampire film Nosferatu (1922) accompanied by live piano music. For an especially charming film experience, head to the Freiluftkino Kreuzberg (Mariannenplatz 2, www. freiluftkino-kreuzberg.de), located in the Prussian-era quarters of the Bethanian Art Center. With languages from French to Finnish, the theater screens a nightly international lineup of films. The eclectic July program launches with films

like the documentary Free Speech Fear Free (3 July), tackling one of the most important modern themes, and the James Dean classic Rebel Without a Cause (4 July). With a large outdoor amphitheater situated among towering trees and near a cozy snack cantina, Freiluftkino Rehberge (Windhuker Str. 52A, www.freiluftkino-rehberge.de) feels like being back at a summer camp. Catch a couple of English-language choices this month: the spectacular American musical La La Land on 5 July, or Paterson, a poetic ode to one man’s daily life in New Jersey, on 12 July. Freiluftkino Hasenheide (Columbiadamm 160, www.freiluftkino-hasenheide.de) offers a daily selection ranging from art-house to action in one of Berlin’s biggest and most central parks. On 2 July, see the especially unique B-Movie: Lust and Sound in West Berlin 1979-1989, a documentary film paying homage to the music, art, and chaos running rampant in the ‘80s, with cameos from characters like Nick Cave. www.wheretraveler.com 55

ENTERTAINMENT

BALLET & OPERA Deutsche Oper A 1960s décor-free box of acoustic magic. Director and conductor Donald Runnicles puts together rich programs with lots of Verdi, Rossini, and Mozart. 2, 6 Jul: Don Carlo (Verdi). 1, 4, 7 Jul: Boris Godunov (Mussorgsky). 8 Jul: The Magic Flute (Mozart). www.deutscheoperberlin.de. T: 030.34384343. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Komische Oper Young and daring opera productions won this theater the title of Opera House of the Year 2013. Australian intendant Barrie Kosky is also the artistic director of some of the performances, with mesmerizing results. 1, 3, 9 Jul: Orpheus (Monteverdi). 2 Jul: Medea (Reimann). 5 Jul: Il Barbiere di Siviglia (Verdi). 6, 8 Jul: Zoroastre (Rameau). 7 Jul: Heute Nacht oder nie (Spolianski). 11 Jul: Petruschka (Stravinsky)/ L'Enfant et les Sortileges (Ravel). 12 Jul: Die Perlen der Cleopatra (Straus). 13 Jul: Il Barbiere di Siviglia (Verdi). 14 Jul: Zoroastre (Rameau). 15 Jul: Medea (Reimann). 16 Jul: The Fairground Scene, from Sorochintsky Fair (Mussorgsky), in Russian. www.komische-operberlin.de. Behrensstr. 55-57. T: 030.47997400. U Französische Straße. E3

Staatsballett Berlin’s ballet company currently performs at various locations. 3, 5 Jul: The Sleeping Beauty (Tchaikovsky) at Deutsche Oper.

www.staatsballett-berlin.de. T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Staatsoper im Schiller Theater While its home on Unter den Linden gets revamped, the Staatsoper has temporarily moved all performances to the Schiller Theater. Daniel Barenboim’s perfect productions range from Baroque operas to contemporary premieres. Summer break. www.staatsoper-berlin.de. T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3

concerts Tuesdays. www.berliner-philharmoniker. de. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Konzerthaus

This charismatic 1821 concert hall is the base theater of the Konzerthausorchester, but other orchestras and soloists grace its stage regularly. 1 Jul: The Konzerthausorchester Berlin (cond. Venzago) and violinist Tabea Zimmermann play Jarrell and Schumann. 5 Jul: The Berliner Sibelius Orchester (cond. Dodds): Pfitzner and Shostakovich. 6–8 Jul: The Konzerthausorchester Berlin (cond. Kitajenko) perform Stravinsky and Tchaikovsky. 14–16 Jul: The Berliner Dom Konzerthausorchester Berlin Berlin’s main cathedral presents a The Komische Oper brings (cond. Pons) perform Ravel and plethora of sacred music concerts back forgotten cabaret pieces de Falla. Staatskapelle Berlin and German operettas year round. www.berlinerdom.de. (cond. Barenboim): Rachmaninov, that were banned by Am Lustgarten. Debussy, Ravel. the Nazis. T: 030.20269136. www.konzerthaus.de. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3 Gendarmenmarkt. T: 030.203092101. U Hausvogteiplatz. E3 Hochschule für Musik Hans Eisler One of Berlin’s most prestigious music academies. Philharmonie Its students are members of important orchestras, The iconic concert venue is home to the acclaimed choirs, and bands, and the stage presents Berliner Philharmoniker, currently led by Sir hundreds of concerts every year – many of which Simon Rattle, but also hosts other ensembles and are free. www.hfm-berlin.de. Charlottenstr. 55. soloists. Free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays 1pm. T: 030.688305700. U Stadtmitte. E3 Summer break. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de. Chamber Music Hall of the Philharmonie Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. Part of the Philharmonie, this concert hall presents S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3 daily chamber-music concerts and free lunchtime

CLASSICAL CONCERTS

Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin Injecting new expression into 19th- and 20thcentury classical works under the lead of Marek Janowski, the oldest German radio orchestra with its 103 members has won a place in the top tier of European concert orchestras. www.rsb-online.de. Tickets: 030.20298715.

DANCE AND EXPERIMENTAL SPACES Avant-garde dance shows and contemporary performances inside an old factory. Two locations, one in Prenzlauer Berg, one in Pankow. www. dock11-berlin.de. Dock 11 Studios: Kastanienallee 79. T: 030.4481222. U Eberswalder Straße, Rosenthaler Platz. F2; Eden Studios: Breite Str. 43 (Pankow). T: 030.35120312. S+U Pankow. Off Map

HAU (Hebbel am Ufer)

Invasion From The British Isles It may be warm in July in Berlin, but it’s about to get even more heated with the hottest stars from the British Isles coming to town! Kicking the month off are the Pet Shop Boys, the synthpop duo from London. The electrifying pair will be performing at the MercedesBenz Arena on 1 July as part of their Super Tour. Next up at the same venue is Elton John on 7 July. The venerable rocker comes back to Berlin following the release of his newest album, Wonderful Crazy Night. As part of the 30th anniversary of The Joshua Tree, Irish giants U2 will be here to perform their critically acclaimed album in its entirety at the massive Olympiastadion on 12 July. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de, olympiastadion.berlin 56 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U LY 2017

Cutting-edge shows and hip performances at this off-theater and cultural point. www.hebbel-amufer.de. Stresemannstr. 29; Tempelhofer Ufer 10; Hallesches Ufer 32. T: 030.2590040. U Hallesches Tor. E4

Radialsystem V Once a turn-of-the-century pumping station for the Berlin Water Services, this creative space is now a cultural center and idea factory that hosts performances of all kinds, from classical concerts to jazz jam sessions to contemporary dance. www.radialsystem.de. Holzmarktstr. 33. T: 030.288788588. S+U Jannowitzbrücke. G3

Sophiensaele Choreographer Sasha Waltz’s center for avantgarde dance, contemporary theater (mainly in German), music, and experimental performance artists. www.sophiensaele.com. Sophienstr. 18.

PET SHOP BOYS (THIS PAGE) AND ELTON JOHN (OPPOSITE PAGE) : COURTESY OF PR

Dock 11 Studios & Eden

ON THIS MONTH THEATER, MUSICALS & DANCE BLUE MAN GROUP Bluemax Theater, all month

THE ONE: GRAND SHOW Friedrichstadt-Palast, until 15 July

SCOTCH AND SODA Chamäleon Theater, all month

THE TAP PACK Tipi am Kanzleramt, all month

Tickets 030. 39 06 65 50 // www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de

Elton John

ROCK, JAZZ, POP ELTON JOHN Mercedes-Benz-Arena, 7 July

PET SHOP BOYS Mercedes-Benz-Arena, 1 July

CELINE DION Mercedes-Benz-Arena, 23 July

NORAH JONES Tempodrom, 17 July

ZZ TOP Spandau Zitadelle, 18 July

U2 Olympiastadion, 12 July

BALLET & CLASSICAL KOMISCHE OPER FESTIVAL Komische Oper, 11–16 July

ORPHEUS (MONTEVERDI) Komische Oper, 1, 3, 9 July

TABEA ZIMMERMANN Konzerthaus, 1 July

www.wheretraveler.com 57

ENTERTAINMENT T: 030.2835266. U Weinmeisterstraße, S Hackescher Markt, S Oranienburger Straße. E2

berlin.de. Dircksenstr. 40. T: 030.2833123. S+U Alexanderplatz. F2

MOVIE THEATERS

Café Bilderbuch

Multiplex cinema. Most of the movies are screened in their original language, with or without subtitles. www.cinemaxx.de. Potsdamer Str. 5. T: 040.80806969. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Frequent jazz concerts and readings at this Schöneberg café. Second Wednesday of the month: Michael Gechter’s Vocaljazz Trio. www.cafe-bilderbuch.de. Akazienstr. 28. T: 030.78706057. U Eisenacherstraße. D5

Cinestar Sony Center

Columbiahalle/C-Halle

CinemaxX Potsdamer Platz

The latest Hollywood blockbusters, in English, every day. www.cinestar.de. Potsdamer Str. 4. T: 030.26066400. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

The multi-function event space hosts some of today’s most popular pop and rock acts. www. columbia-theater.de. Columbiadamm 13-21. T: 030.69812814. U Platz der Luftbrücke. E5

Odeon

Estrel Festival Center Berlin

This old-school single-screen cinema was Berlin’s first English-language theater and still screens both cult movies and new releases. Hauptstr. 116. T: 030.78704019. U Rathaus Schöneberg, S Schöneberg. C5

ROCK, POP, JAZZ A-Trane

Enjoy an evening with the world’s top look-andsound-alike artists and taste a three-course dinner during Stars In Concert, a live performance of legends like Elvis, Abba, Johnny Cash, Buddy Holly, and more. www.stars-in-concert.de. Wed– Sat 8:30pm, Sun 7pm. Sonnenallee 225. €20, from €60 with dinner. Off Map

KulturBrauerei

Since 1992, this intimately sized but important venue (it was named Best German Jazzclub in 2011) has welcomed both emerging and A-list talent, including Wynton Marsalis, Herbie Hancock, and Diana Krall. Daily from 8pm, free entry Sunday after 10:30pm. www.a-trane.de. Pestalozzistr. 105. T: 030.3132550. S Savignyplatz. B3/B4

The early-1900s brewery complex now houses various restaurants and art spaces, with a rich combination of programs, as well as a very popular street-food market most Sundays. www.kulturbrauerei.de. Schönhauser Allee 36. T: 030.44352614. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Arena

A massive arena for world-touring pop concerts and sports events, including those of Berlin’s professional ice hockey team, the Eisbären. 1 Jul: Pet Shop Boys in concert. 7 Jul: Elton John in concert. 23, 24 Jul: Céline Dion in concert. www. mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de. Mühlenstr. 12–30. T: 030.2060708899. U Warschauer Straße. G4

A very large music hall that used to be a bus depot. www.arena-berlin.de. Eichenstr. 4. T: 030.5332030. S Treptower Park, Schlesisches Tor. G4

B Flat Jazz Club Small jazz bands play almost every night at this bar. Free jam sessions every Wednesday. www.b-flat-

Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin

Triple Englishness at CineStar Original, IMAX, and KulturBrauerei!

Enjoy Berlin’s widest range of undubbed English versions all-day at CineStar Original and see undubbed versions of documentaries and blockbusters at IMAX as well – on Berlin’s largest screen! Our tip: Every first Tuesday of the month Sneak-previews in original version with german subtitles at KulturBrauerei. More info and tickets at cinestar.de

58 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U LY 2017

Just in time for the European tour of British synth-pop trio’s Depeche Mode, Berlin expat Jenna Rose Robbins has released a comingof-age tale of her days as a musically obsessed teen, offering a glimpse into a subculture where unchecked fanaticism can lead to both euphoric and devastating consequences. As a love letter to fellow music addicts, Faithful and Devoted: Confessions of a Music Addict recounts her time following Depeche Mode across Spain on the 1993 Devotional tour (described by Q music magazine as the “most debauched tour ever”), bringing readers face to face with the artists she idolized, while speaking directly to the heart of every music fan. The book makes the perfect complement to a visit to Berlin’s renowned Hansa Studios (www. musictours-berlin.com), where the band recorded several of their most popular albums. www.jennarobbins.com http://bit.ly/depechemodebook

COURTESY OF JENNA ROSE ROBBINS.

For The Love Of Depeche Mode

Quasimodo One of Berlin’s historic music cafés. Diversified program with many musical styles, from jazz to blues, R&B to soul. www.quasimodo.de. Kantstr. 12a. T: 030.31804560. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

präsentiert

Tempodrom

S A Y O N A R A

This large concert building resembling a circus tent – and situated on the former grounds of the now-gone Anhalter Bahnhof – hosts an array of events, from classical concerts and pop-rock productions to mixed martial arts and dance. 17 Jul: Norah Jones in concert. www.tempodrom. de. Möckernstr. 10. Toll number: 0186.554111. S Anhalter Bahnhof. E4

GEISHAS! TAMAGOTCHIS! EDELWEISS!

THEATER, CABARET & MUSICALS

DIE JAPAN VARIETÉ REVUE Von Stephan Prattes

Admiralspalast

AB 12. JULI 2017

One of Berlin’s few preserved pre-WWII variety venues offers an international, high-caliber program of musicals, cabaret, and concerts in an elegant hall from the 1920s. www.admiralspalast. de. Friedrichstr. 101. T: 030.47997499. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Kommen Sie mit auf eine bildgewaltige und vergnügliche Reise durch die Kultur, Lebensart und Musik Japans – mitten in Berlin!

Bar Jeder Vernunft A 1912 tent housing song-and-dance shows, comedy, and cabaret. Many shows in German only. www.bar-jeder-vernunft.de. Schaperstr. 24. T: 030.8831582. U Spichernstraße. C4

Blue Man Group The unmistakable Blue Man Group has its own permanent theater, the Bluemax Theater, where the blue-domed performers present an energetic combination of music, art, pantomime, and comedy. The few spoken words are in English. Shows take place almost every night. Check website for info. www.stage-entertainment.de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

www.wintergarten-berlin.de | Ticket-Hotline: 030 - 588 433 | Potsdamer Str. 96, 10785 Berlin

The best events in town

Chamäleon Variete An old ballroom where it is not unusual to see trapeze artists, jugglers, tap dancers, and cabaret singers. All month: Scotch and Soda – Circus. Jazz. Served Straight Up! www.chamaeleonberlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 40/41. T: 030.4000590. S Hackescher Markt. E2

Friedrichstadt-Palast Special effects, glitzy Vegas-style live show productions at this modern theater. Until 15 Jul: The One, Grand Show, a dreamlike journey through time in search of the person we love. www.palast.berlin Friedrichstr. 107. T: 030.23262326. U Friedrichstraße. E3 The big tent in the Tiergarten has a vast program of musicals, magic, cabaret, dance, and theater. Many shows are in German. All month: The Tap Pack, tap-dance tornadoes from Down Under. www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de. Große Querallee. T: 030.39066550. U Bundestag. D3

Wintergarten Varieté This sumptuous variety theater that has earned a reputation for its revitalized Vaudeville-inspired productions, as well as world-famous acts. From 12 Jul: Sayonara Tokyo. www.wintergartenberlin.de. Potsdamer Str. 96. T: 030.588433. S+U Potsdamer Platz

©ISTOCK

Tipi am Kanzleramt

Berlin www.wheretraveler.com 59

NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE

Radialsystem V. Inset, below: Sage Beach.

The nearest seashore may be two-and-a-half hours away, but there's no shortage of water in Berlin. Solveig Steinhardt rounded up the best spots for chilling out by the river. There's nothing like watching the sun go down by the water, and Berlin's network of rivers and canals almost seems made for waterside beer-drinking on long summer evenings. The Spree, which crosses the city from east to west with its islands and ramifications, offers kilometers of banks dotted with scenic venues ranging from grungy estates and alternative clubs to trendy beach bars and classy restaurants. The Holzmarkt complex in Friedrichshain (Holzmarktstr. 25, www.holzmarkt.com) is the type of place young visitors expect to find in Berlin: informal, lively, industrial, and alternative. With a variety of venues, this social experiment run by a collective of artists and young investors works a bit like a selfsufficient and all-encompassing nightlife park: You can come at 4 pm for a beer at beach bar Pampas, walk over to Fame Restaurant (www.fame.katerschmaus.de) for an ever60 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U LY 2017

changing menu of meat dishes and Italian specialties, and then order a mojito from the boat bar before heading to the famous Katerblau bar to dance until the following day as the Spree flows by. If you're more the Bach type, you can always walk to the building next door, the Radialsystem V (Holzmarktstr. 33, www. radialsystem.de). This former water pump building turned into an event and concert venue offers a more intellectual program of contemporary dance and classical music. This month, do not miss choreographer Sasha Waltz's Avenue of the Cosmonauts (15 and 16 Jul), followed by Cantatatanz by Nico and the Navigators, a modern take on Bach's

Cantatas. And to end the night, enjoy a few drinks with musical accompaniment on the riverfront terrace. Those looking for a more exclusive atmosphere may want to try out the beach bar experience at Kreuzberg's Sage Beach (Kรถpenicker Str. 18-20, www.sage-restaurant.de). Housed in a converted industrial building and boasting a sandy beach complete with lounge chairs and palm trees, Sage also serves an interesting range of German specialties and a wide selection of cocktails and wines to the sound of chillout music. Check their Facebook page for special events, such as the regular Mexican taco night.

COURTESY OF RADAIALSYSTEM V, PHOTO BY SEBASTIAN BOLESCH; SAGE BEACH: COURTESY OF SAGE BEACH.

Take Me To The River

NIGHTLIFE

BEER Ankerklause A canal-side tavern where drinks come with beautiful views of passing boats. Daily from 10am (Mon from 4pm). www.ankerklause.de. Kottbusser Damm 104. T: 030.6935649. U Schönleinstraße. F4

Café am Neuen See and Biergarten A pleasant lakeside beer garden inside the verdant Tiergarten park. Open daily from breakfast onwards. www.cafeamneuensee.de. Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930. S Tiergarten. C3

Club der Visionäre This canal-side boat-shack attracts young crowds till early morning and beyond. Daily from 2pm until very late (from noon Sat & Sun). www.clubdervisionaere.com. Am Flutgraben 1. T: 030.69518942. U Schlesisches Tor, S Treptower Park. G4

Dicke Wirtin This old Berliner Kneipe restaurant is a Charlottenburg institution. Great beer and traditional German dishes. Daily from 11am. www.dicke-wirtin.de. Carmerstr. 9. T: 030.3124952. S Savignyplatz, S+U Zoologischer Garten. B4

Prater Berlin’s oldest Biergarten serves simple and homely cuisine, seasonal specialties, and lots of beer of course! Daily from 6pm (from noon Sat). www.pratergarten.de. Kastanienallee 7-9. T: 030.4485688. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Schleusenkrug A relaxing spot for beer lovers amid the lush greenery of the Tiergarten. German specialties to go with your beer include a variety of cakes, Flammkuchen, and a few breakfast options. Daily from 11am. www.schleusenkrug.de. Müller-BreslauStr. T: 030.3139909. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

CASINOS Spielbank Berlin A modern casino offering three floors of fun and games, including 20 tables of roulette, blackjack, and an extensive variety of poker options, as well as 350 gaming machines. Daily from 11am. www.spielbank-berlin.de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1. T: 030.255990. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3/D4

WINE & COCKTAILS Bar Tausend Celebrities mingle while watching the expert mixologists do their magic at this futuristic bar. Thu–Sat from 7:30pm. www.tausendberlin.com. Schiffbauerdamm 11. T: 030.27582070. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

COCKTAIL: © ISTOCK.

Fragrances The Ritz-Carlton’s bar is the world’s only to pair cocktails with perfumes. Each drink is represented by a tester bottle of the perfume it’s based on and a photo illustrating the final presentation, which ranges from playful to whimsical. www.ritzcarlton. com. Potsdamer Platz 3. T:030.337777. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

The Grand A former school building has been transformed into a super-hip restaurant, bar and club all mixed into one. Enjoy top cocktails and a selection of cigars on the green leather couches in the 1920s-inspired bar, then dance the night away in the chic, intimate club. www.the-grand-berlin.com. Hirtenstr. 4. T: 030.2789099555. S+U Alexanderplatz. B4

Green Door Cocktail Bar One of Berlin’s most relaxing cocktail bars, with a retro style and lots of kitsch décor. The cocktail list is long and the barman famous. Daily 6pm–3am (Fri–Sat until 4am). www.greendoor.de. Winterfeldtstr. 50. T: 030.2152515. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

Harry’s New York Bar An international drink menu with 200+ different cocktails, served to a jazz soundtrack. Mon–Sat from 4pm. www.esplanade.de. Grand Hotel Esplanade Berlin, Lützowufer 15. T: 030.254780. Bus M29, stop Lützowplatz. D4

LaBanca Bar The Hotel de Rome’s bar team specializes in avantgarde cocktails made with unusual ingredients such as balsamic vinegar, rose petals, or ginger beer. Live music Wed–Sat, rooftop terrace in summer. www.hotelderome.com. Behrenstr. 37. T: 030.4606090. U Französische Straße. E3

Newton Bar Cigars, champagne, whiskey, and cocktails define this bar, which is entirely dedicated to fashion photographer Helmut Newton. Daily 10am–3am (until 4am Fri–Sat). www.newton-bar.de. Charlottenstr. 57. T: 030.20295421. U Französische Straße. E3

Reingold A classic cocktail bar, 1920s style. Elegant leather sofas, sumptuous lighting, and gilded elements with a soundtrack ranging from soul and funk to R&B. Tue–Sat from 7pm. www.reingold.de. Novalisstr. 11. T: 030.28387676. U Oranienburger Tor. E2

Schwarzes Café A 24-hour combination of a bar and a café, with a good selection of beer and wine and hot meals at any time of night. Lovely garden. 24h a day except Tue from 3–10am. www.schwarzescafe-berlin.de. Kantstr. 148. T: 030.3138038. U Uhlandstraße, U Savignyplatz. B4

Times Bar A fine and luxurious bar inside the Savoy Hotel, offering modern drinks and Caribbean cocktails alongside a selection of Cuban cigars. www.weinrot-restaurant.com. Fasanenstr. 9-10. T: 030.311030. S Savignyplatz. C4

Victoria Bar Top-notch cocktails and a marvelous, elegant interior with dark-wood walls, leather couches, and art aplenty. Open daily 6.30pm–3am (until 4am on Friday & Saturday). www.victoriabar.de. Potsdamer Str. 102. T: 030.25759977. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D4 Sip a mojito in the sun at Klunkerkranich, Neukölln's fave rooftop bar. www.klunkerkranich.de

CLUB GUIDE BERGHAIN/PANORAMA BAR The world's most famous techno club – and with the toughest doormen too. Fri 12am–Mon. www.berghain.de. Am Wriezener Bahnhof. G3

KATER BLAU A top-notch soundsystem driving house and techno beats from the best DJs, and a carnival-like atmosphere. Fri–Sat from midnight. www.katerblau.de. Holzmarktstr. 25. G3

TRESOR Housed in the safe of a department store, Tresor was the first techno club in Berlin’s post-Wall years. www.tresorberlin.com. Köpenicker Str. 70. F3

WATERGATE A two-story electro, house, and drum & bass temple, right on the Spree River. Tight doors. Mon, Wed–Sat from midnight. www.water-gate.de. Falckensteinstr. 49. G4

HOUSE OF WEEKEND Three floors, fabulous views over the city, and the best DJs playing techno and house. Fri–Sun from 11pm. www.week-end-berlin.de. Alexanderplatz 7. F3

CLÄRCHENS BALLHAUS A popular, century-old dance hall. It's salsa on Mon, tango on Tues, swing on Wed, cha cha on Thu, and live ballroom music on Fri+Sat. www.ballhaus.de. Auguststr. 24. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

HORNS & HOOVES An eccentric combination of club, piano bar, cabaret, and circus. www.hornsandhooves.de. Danziger Str. 1. F1

GRETCHEN Funk, hip hop, drum & bass and electronica at this eclectic Kreuzberg club. Fri & Sat. www.gretchen-club.de. Obentrautstr. 19-21. E4

PURO SKY LOUNGE High-heeled crowds in a sleek, luxurious setting on the roof of the Europa Center. Wed–Sat from 8pm. www.puroberlin.de. Tauentzienstr. 9-12. C4

THE PEARL Luxurious club for the poshest crowds, Thu–Sat until 7am. www.thepearl-berlin.de. Fasanenstr. 81. G4

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ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE USEFUL INFORMATION Emergency numbers Police, call 110 free from any phone. Ambulance or fire, call 112 free from any phone. Medical Services, T: 030.310031. 24h Pharmacy: Hauptbahnhof Apotheke.

T: 030.20614190. S Hauptbahnhof. Berlin Police hotline, T: 030.46644664. Emergency dental services, T: 030.89004333. Poison hotline, T: 030.19240. National emergency number for on-call medical service, T: 116117. Berlin lost and found office, T: 030.902773101.

BERLIN AIRPORTS Berlin Tegel (TXL) Approx. 10 km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By bus: Buses 109 or X9 to Zoologischer Garten

Nobody knows the city better than your expert concierge. Julian Darenberg, concierge at the Regent Berlin, is here to help. www.lcdg.org What does your perfect day look like? My perfect day begins with a long breakfast at Café Anna Blume on Kollwitzplatz or nearby Elbspeicher B (www.elbspeicherb. de), followed by a walk through Mauerpark. The great mix of people and the karaoke show create a unique atmosphere. Not far from Mauerpark is Konnopke's Imbiss (www. konnopke-imbiss.de), in my opinion the best Currywurst in the city. In the West, my tour includes Italian restaurant Osteria Ribaltone (www.ribaltone. de) on Viktoria-Luise-Platz. When you have visitors, where do you take them? If they are new to Berlin, I like to take them through the Brandenburg Gate. It makes quite the impact when I highlight that this was not always possible. When the sky is clear, I take them to see the view from the TV tower and for a walk along the Eastside Gallery on the Spree river. Secret tips for Berlin? The U-Bahn Cabrio Tour (www.bvg.de), Berlin Unterwelten underground tours (p. 42), and Kabarett Charly M theater (www. kabarettcharly-m.de). 62 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U LY 2017

Describe Berlin in three words. Colorful, loud, quiet. What do you do in your free time? Eschenbräu in Triff tstraße is a small cozy brewery, which has changed in a short time from an insider tip to an institution. There you can end the day with a good seasonal beer and delicious Flammkuchen. Cosiest spot in Berlin? At the Schleusenkrug beer garden in Tiergarten on a balmy summer’s evening. Tips for a German speciality? The list is long, but Kohlrouladen (cabbage rolls) is the first that comes to mind. A romantic suggestion? Teehaus im Englischen Garten in Tiergarten, all lit up, offers a very romantic atmosphere. What is your outdoor tip for a summer’s evening? The Botanical Night or a concert at the Waldbühne. For party people, venues like Badeschiff or Club der Visionäre are a must. Images: Anna Blume; Brandenburg Gate; the Berlin Wall at the Eastside Gallery.

Berlin Schönefeld (SXF) Approx. 20 km (12 miles) southeast of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By regional train: Deutsche Bahn-operated

RE7 or RB14 to Ostbahnhof, Alexanderplatz, Hauptbahnhof, and Zoologischer Garten. RE9 to Hauptbahnhof via Südkreuz and Potsdamer Platz. Trains take approx. 45 mins. Tickets cost €3.40. By S-Bahn: Trains S9 and S45 to Hauptbahnhof, via Ostkreuz and Südkreuz respectively, run. every 20 mins, taking approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.40. By U-Bahn: Bus X7 and X11 to Rudow station connect with the U-Bahn system and run every 10 mins. Journey approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.40. By (night) bus: Arrivals between midnight and 4am Mon–Fri can take bus N7 to central areas. By taxi: Regular cabs take approx. 30 mins to city center, costing €30–€40. Left luggage: At the multi-storey car park P4. T: 030.60911150.

GETTING AROUND Public Transport www.bvg.de.

Fares Buy tickets from machines in the station, and be sure to validate them in the posts next to the ticket machines. Single tickets cost €2.80; or save by paying €9 for four single-trip tickets, which you can validate as you need. If traveling fewer than three train stations or six bus or tram stops, buy a short-trip ticket for €1.70. Day tickets cost €7 for unlimited travel until 3am the following day, or if you are traveling with others, a small group ticket will get up to five people unlimited travel for €19.90. For those staying longer, a pass valid for seven days may be a better value at €30.

COURTESY OF ANNA BLUME CAFÉ, © ISTOCK.

ASK THE CONCIERGE

run every 10 mins, taking approx. 20 mins. The TXL express bus to Alexanderplatz via Hauptbahnhof runs every 5–10 mins, taking. 25 mins. Single tickets cost €2.80 and can be bought on board. By U-Bahn: Bus 109 or X9 connects to the U-Bahn system at Jakob-Kaiser-Platz. Bus 128 links to the U-Bahn at Kurt-Schumacher-Platz and runs every 10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. Tickets cost €2.80. By taxi: Regular cabs take 10–20 mins to city center. Approx. €20–€35. Left luggage: Service center in Terminal A (ground floor). T: 030.41012315.

ESSENTIALS U-Bahn The underground system is extensive. Most lines run every five minutes (less frequently outside working hours), 4am–12:30am (replaced by night buses outside of these times). The entire U-Bahn and S-Bahn network runs all night on weekends.

STA OF TTHION MON E TH

S-Bahn The above-ground system is faster than the U-Bahn but less frequent. Trains run every 10–20 mins. Timing and ticket rules apply as above.

Public Ferries With a regular BVG ticket ,you can hop on one of the six public ferry lines. Most beautiful is the trip from Wannsee to lakeside Kladow village; ferries leave every hour and take about 20 minutes.

Rail Travel Deutsche Bahn is the railway company that manages the Regional Bahn (RB) and Regional Express (RE) trains, operating around greater Berlin and Potsdam. The Intercity (IC) and European City (EC) trains travel further afield. www.bahn.de. Toll number: 0180.6996633.

Rent A Bike Explore Berlin by bike.

Hallesches Tor Straddling the waters of the Landwehr Canal, Hallesches Tor, one of the city’s oldest U-Bahn stations, lies at an important transit junction. On the aboveground portion of the station, U1 trains run east-west across the city, while underground, U6 trains traverse from north to south. Though the city gate (“Tor”) that the station is named for no longer exists, history still lives on in remnants of the station’s original turn-of-the-century neo-Baroque style.

Taxis

Tax-Free Shopping

Würfelfunk: T: 030.210101.

German law entitles all non-EU residents to a VAT tax refund. Look for stores displaying the Premier Tax Free sign and ask for a "tax-free form." When leaving the EU, goods and the completed form must be shown to a customs agent, from which a customs stamp must be obtained no more than three months after the date of purchase. Goods must be unused. Present the stamped form at the refund counter in the airport, or send it to Premier Tax Free as soon as you reach your destination. www.premiertaxfree.com.

MONEY SERVICES

Deutsche Bahn Call-a-Bike service:

Banks and Foreign Exchange

www.callabike.de. Berlin and Bike: www.berlinandbike.de. T: 0163.5120124.

Exchange AG: Friedrichstr. 172. T: 030.20649296. Deutsche Bank: Kurfürstendamm 111. T: 030.8904370.

Rent a Car

American Express: T: 069.97972000 Diners Club: T: 07531.3633111 MasterCard: T: 0800.8191040 Visa: T: 0800.8118440

MAP LICENSE NUMBER: BVG-0050.16; UBAHN: © ISTOCK PHOTO.

Avis: www.avis.com. T: 0180.6217702 (toll number) Europcar: www.europcar.com. T: 040.52018765 Hertz: www.hertz.com. T: 0180.6003690

Lost Cards and Cheques

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WHERE NOW | ELLEN EISEMANN

ELLEN EISEMANN FASHION DESIGNER Feminine and chic, Ellen Eisemann’s dresses, skirts, and tops are made for the Audrey Hepburns of today. Think flattering, figure-hugging cuts and eye-catching colors and prints, combining a hint of ‘50s glam with timeless appeal. The Berlin-based designer shared all her tips for enjoying the city with style. www.elleneisemann.com

How long have you lived in Berlin, and what brought you here? I moved here in the late ‘80s to study. The city was in upheaval and there was a real atmosphere of change and renewal. Berlin’s transition from a divided city into a united capital had an influence on my turning to the creative arts. When I finished my studies I spent time abroad in cities like New York and Paris. I returned to Berlin in 2004, full of drive, international impressions, and the desire to make the dresses of my dreams using extraordinary fabrics. What makes this an inspirational city for your work as a fashion designer? What influence does the city have on your creations? There are so many faces to Berlin. The whole world comes together here. Many artists have their studios in this city and the art scene is huge. International designers cross paths with talented workshops that can so wonderfully bring my collections to life. Berlin is such an open city, a place where fashion is a tool for expressing one’s approach to life. I find inspiration for my creations in everything from graffiti art to Art Nouveau. What is your fashion maxim? “My dresses make women shine.” It’s not about covering up the wearer but making a statement, and blending elegance with feeling good. 66 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U LY 2017

A must-have from your current collection? The “Tara Goshiki” dress (above, left) with the koi fish print, which nails the fashion consciousness of the moment: strong colors combined with elegant tailoring. It goes just as well with a pair of sneakers as it does with high heels. If Berlin were a person, what do you think his or her style would be? [Laughs] Berlin would have to be a woman, and she would have to wear my dresses. Which neighborhood do you call home, and what drew you there? I call Neukölln home – a neighborhood of contradictions. My favorite place is my studio in Schöneberg. This is where I find the peace and energy for my work. We often wind up a hectic day there by admiring the evening light shimmering on the many rolls of fabric. My favorite spot in the neighborhood would have to be the restaurant La Cantine d’Augusta (www. lacantinedaugusta.com). They have the best French cheeses and wines. When family or friends come to visit, where do you take them? The Tadshikische Teestube (Tajik Tearoom, www. tadshikische-teestube.de) is an absolute must. It feels like you’ve stepped into another world. Another highlight is the classical music concerts

in the Spiegelsaal at Clärchens Ballhaus (www. ballhaus.de). A cocktail in X-Bar (www. cocktailxbar.de) is another must, or a fresh, handmade lemonade on the rooftop terrace at Soho House (www.sohohouseberlin.com). Imagine you had the whole day off to spend however you pleased. What would your perfect Berlin day look like? My perfect day would start with a delicious breakfast at Kastanientörtchen (Kastanienallee 60). Their ginger tea with fresh thyme and rosemary goes perfectly with the brownie cheesecake with blueberries and a thick layer of nut crunch. Afterwards, I would amble over to the flea market at Arkonaplatz. There are some real rarities to be found there. In the summer, I like to go sailing at Gatow and leave the big city behind for a while. Later I would dive back into urban style at Volt (www.restaurant-volt. de), which offers fine dining in a former electrical station in Kreuzberg. After dinner I’d enjoy a nightcap with a view over my Berlin on the rooftop at Solar Bar (www.solarberlin.com) or at Klunkerkranich (www.klunkerkranich.de). Clockwise from top left: Sailing in one of Berlin's lakes; Ellen Eisemann in her studio; rooftop bar Klunkerkranich; flea market; Ellen Eisemann's "Tara Goshiki" design. Inset: Volt Restaurant.

SAILING AND FLEA MARKET: ©ISTOCK; ELLEN EISEMANN AND TARA GOSHIKI LOOK: COURTESY OF ELLEN EISEMANN AND DIE STARNBERGERIN PR; VOLT RESTAURANT: COURTESY OF VOLT RESTAURANT; KLUNKERKRANICH: COURTESY OF KLUNKERKRANICH.

My Berlin

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