Where London July 2017

London

JULY 2 0 17 W HER E T R AV EL ER . C OM

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

FESTIVAL FEVER Watch music icons, from The Jacksons to Justin Bieber

GOOD SPORT Inside the World Para Athletics Championships

The Queen invites you into her home PLUS

War Horse writer’s London favourites Seafood spots that are making waves Raise a glass at sundowner bars

CULTURE

ENTERTAINMENT

SHOPPING

DINING

MAPS

Contents July

See more of London at www.wheretraveler.com/london

London

JULY 2 0 17 W HER E T R AV EL ER . C OM

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

FESTIVAL FEVER Watch music icons, from The Jacksons to Justin Bieber

GOOD SPORT Inside the World Para Athletics Championships

ON THE COVER The Queen invites you into her home PLUS

War Horse writer’s London favourites Seafood spots that are making waves Raise a glass at sundowner bars

CULTURE

ENTERTAINMENT

SHOPPING

DINING

WL JULY 2017 COVER.indd 1

MAPS 19/06/2017 10:29

The Guide

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20 SIGHTSEEING Visit Hampton Court Palace Flower Show for edible plants, a rainbow garden and stalls selling everything from glass art to gardening gloves.

38 MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Soul of a Nation: Art in the Age of Black Power, celebrating black artists and figures, opens at Tate Modern.

48 ENTERTAINMENT Join the party!

Music festivals are popping up all over the city, with artists including Norah Jones, Goldfrapp and The Killers.

62 SHOPPING Regent Street, one of the capital’s most iconic areas, turns traffic-free during the Summer Streets shopping festival.

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Best of the month 6 WHERE NOW

18 FROM LONDON WITH LOVE

Eat your dinner in the sky, watch the greatest tennis players at Wimbledon or listen to Adele rock Wembley.

Take your pick from these Royal Warrant Holders – goods used by the Queen and her household – from tea hampers by Twinings to purses by Burberry.

10 FIT FOR A QUEEN Buckingham Palace opens its gates to visitors, with an exhibition about royal gifts.

14 GOING FOR GOLD Watch as the World Para Athletics Championships come to Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park.

CHINESE EDITION | SPRING 2017

PLAN

2016-2017

PLAN DE

LONDRES ÉDITION E FRANÇAIS

90 MY LONDON As Michael Morpurgo, writer of War Horse, opens an exhibition about his work at the V&A Museum of Childhood, he shares his favourite spots across the city, including where to see great illustrations, pick up books and have afternoon tea.

TA L K I N G T O T H E W O R L D ’ S V I S I T O R S

LONDON

伦敦 | 中文版 IN LONDON CHINESE EDITION | 中文版 | SPRING 2017

HAMPTON COURT PALACE FLOWER SHOW © BETHANY CLARKE; PARA ATHLETICS © 2016 BRITISH ATHLETICS; SEAFOOD © JAMES RAM; BUCKINGHAM PALACE INTERIOR © THE ROYAL COLLECTION © HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II

Step inside the Queen’s home, Buckingham Palace.

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70 DINING Dine at seafood restaurants this summer, from Rick Stein’s new opening to London Shell Co. Plus we look at Japanese and Latin American cuisine.

80 NIGHTLIFE We suggest some great spots for a sundowner drink, including Rumpus Room and Queen Elizabeth Hall Roof Garden.

84 WELLBEING Hop into one of the city’s hammams, from Harrods’ Urban Retreat to The Ned’s newly opened spa.

86 ESSENTIALS Ricky Barlow, head concierge at Grosvenor House, A JW Marriott Hotel, shares his tips.

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Vol. No. 43 Issue No. 7 ISSN 0951 323X YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

4 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2017

WELCOME

Editor’s Letter

THE AWARD-WINNING COMEDY PHENOMENON

Behind closed doors When I first came to London as a student, I remember standing outside the gates of Buckingham Palace to watch Trooping the Colour. Even though it was pouring with rain, it was exciting to see the pomp and pageantry and catch a glimpse of one of the city’s most famous residents: the Queen.

Since then, I have been behind the gilded gates – and you can, too. There is nothing quite like stepping inside the fairytale building, with its glittering chandeliers, throne rooms and grand staircases. You can also visit Royal Gifts, an exhibition about presents given to the Queen from leaders such as Nelson Mandela and Dwight D Eisenhower.

The stars are shining bright in London.

Singers from Norah Jones to Cliff Richard are performing at festivals at some of our most beautiful locations, such as Somerset House, Kew Gardens and Hyde Park.

This month is brimming with exciting events.

On my to-do list is Tate Modern’s Soul of a Nation: Art in the Age of Black Power, which pays homage to influential black artists such as Lorraine O’Grady and Romare Bearden.

Meanwhile, the World Para Athletics Championships are taking place at Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park.

Our holiday advice doesn’t stop here – follow us on Twitter and like us on Facebook for tips and competitions. Have a great trip!

KOHINOOR SAHOTA Group Editor Where London

Twitter: @WhereLondon Facebook: Where London Instagram: Where London hello@morriseurope.com

BUCKINGHAM PALACE © ISTOCK

Buckingham Palace

Dominic Maxwell

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8 June 2017

ince Sam Wills last had a big London run, he has reached the finals of America’s Got Talent, played Las Vegas and changed his stage name from the Boy With Tape on His Face to the less cumbersome yet less winsome Tape Face. Thankfully, neither success nor rebranding has done anything to curb the sheer joy that this silent clown from New Zealand offers a roomful of people. This compendium of greatest hits and artful new bits is a delight.

HIS THREE-MAN JACKSON FIVE NUMBER… MIGHT JUST BE THE GREATEST FIVE MINUTES OF ART CREATED BY MAN The masking tape over his mouth stops him speaking, but his black eyeliner highlights laser-precise facial expressions that offer encouragement or exasperation to the audience members he press-gangs on to the stage. If you’re one of the chosen, be aware that the only way anyone looks like a wally stooging here is if they don’t submit to Tape Face’s demands with good heart: take him on and he will have the last eyebrow raise.

So he gets one man to do a Full Monty stripping routine, persuades one woman to imitate a lion, gets another to try repeatedly to hit a ping pong ball into a dustpan with a toy gold club while he makes the ball hover with a hairdryer.

Yes. That old routine. And I don’t want to overhype his three-man Jackson Five number, but it might just be the greatest five minutes of art created by man.

PROPERLY FUNNY, TRULY WONDROUS Tape Face is a figure both innocent and churlish, forever despairing at the way his volunteers don’t immediately copy to the rococo rules of whatever initially opaque but of homemade prop comedy he has devised. And we love him for it.

With household object props kept in cardboard boxes, extension leads visible, a satchel round his shoulder, he lends an air of winging it that takes years to perfect.

The show adds a new theatrical layer to its spinning plates and woozy soundtrack, which is a mixed blessing: the backstage set and meta-theatrical framing device make his world richer, but slower. It’s a bit baggy at two hours plus, but that aside, this is properly funny, truly wondrous stuff.

MUST END 23 JULY GARRICK THEATRE Leicester Square, Charing Cross

tapefacelondon.com

0871 297 0777* *Calls cost 13p per minute plus network extras

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®

Enjoy July in London! Cheer on the players at Wimbledon, join the Pride march and head to the Royal Albert Hall for BBC Proms

SIR IAN MCKELLEN MONDAY 3–SUNDAY 9 JULY

Sir Ian McKellen, star of stage and screen, performs his one-man show Shakespeare, Tolkien, Others & You at the Park Theatre – in fact he’s doing it to raise funds for this intimate, independent theatre.

The multi-award-winning and Oscarnominated British actor, best known for films The Lord of the Rings, X-Men and The Hobbit trilogy, recreates some of his best-known roles, from Gandalf to Macbeth. Audience members can also participate in the performance, and hear Sir Ian discuss his vast and varied career. Look out for an exhibition of iconic artworks, too. www.parktheatre.co.uk 6 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2017

LONDON IN THE SKY WEDNESDAY 19–SUNDAY 30 JULY

Restaurants are always looking to provide a sensational experience for demanding customers, but few places can compete with London in the Sky for adrenaline-fuelled dining. Tables are suspended 30m in the air, while 22 guests are securely fastened to chairs.

A guest chef, sommelier and waiting team serve from the pop-up kitchen in the centre of the table. Breakfast, lunch and dinner are on offer. www.eventsin thesky.co.uk

WIMBLEDON TENNIS CHAMPIONSHIPS MONDAY 3–SUNDAY 16 JULY

All eyes turn to SW19 when the Grand Slam comes to town. The All England Tennis and Croquet Club – better known as Wimbledon – plays host to the Lawn Tennis Championships 2017, where the grass court venue with an all-white dress code always serves up something special.

British fans’ hopes lie with Andy Murray, eager to see if he can retain his title. But will the Scot be undone by former king of grass Novak Djokovic or by evergreen Roger Federer? Serena Williams isn’t competing, so it could open up the tournament for Brit Johanna Konta. www.wimbledon.com

PRIDE IN LONDON TO SUNDAY 9 JULY

Get waving that rainbow flag as it’s time to celebrate Pride again. The free annual LGBTQ+ festival, which lasts for several weeks, is made up of talks, art exhibitions and theatre and dance performances at venues across the city. The highlight is the Pride in London parade (8 Jul), a march which brings together hundreds of groups and brightly coloured floats.

Last year saw the event’s biggest-ever crowds – around 40,000 revellers. The parade takes place between 1pm and 4.30pm and goes from Regent Street towards Trafalgar Square, ending at Whitehall. www.prideinlondon.org

SUMMER FESTIVAL

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SATURDAY 22 JULY

Enjoy fun in the sun at this annual event at Alexandra Palace – aka Ally Pally, the iconic north London venue which opened in 1863. There’s a family rave with Big Fish Little Fish on a multi-sensory dance floor, fun cabaret act with Cirque Bordello, and a giant water slide for those who are young at heart. Three stages showcase live music, with an eclectic mix including 12-piece African band Matuki, Roma violinist Branko Ristic and hip-hop beats from Dat Brass. Street food stalls including Caribbean BBQ, Le Bao and Hanoi Kitchen provide sustenance.

Get that party started! summerfestival.alexandra palace.com

JULY

PRUDENTIAL RIDE LONDON FRIDAY 28–SUNDAY 30 JULY

Many roads in central London will be traffic-free for Ride London, a huge cycling festival. The highlight is Ride London Free Cycle on the Saturday during which the public ride a landmark-studded route. There is music and entertainment too, plus events at Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park. www.prudentialridelondon.co.uk

ADELE SATURDAY 1–SUNDAY 2 JULY

Don’t miss the finale of Adele’s world tour, in the round at Wembley Stadium. Rumour Has It this might be the mother-of-one’s last world tour for several years – no wonder the concerts sold out less than two hours after the tickets went on general sale.

Even these final two London shows, which were added due to popular demand, sold out in seconds. The solution? Fans of the north London star should call ahead for returns – and keep their fingers crossed. www.wembleystadium.com

BBC PROMS FROM FRIDAY 14 JULY

The world’s longest-running classical music festival, which has taken place since 1895, returns to the Royal Albert Hall for eight weeks.

While showcasing renowned orchestras, conductors and soloists, it also ensures tickets are affordable – ‘promming’ tickets cost just £6. Highlights include Beethoven’s Fidelio (21 Jul) and Holst’s The Planets (25 Jul), plus unusual concerts such as a ‘relaxed’ Prom for people with autism (29 Jul). www.bbc.co.uk/proms

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HOT DATES

Head to Hyde Park for Green Day and The Hives at British Summer Time (p. 48) Celebrate the festival of Eid in Trafalgar Square, with food and music Take a virtual trip to Venice at the Canaletto exhibition at The Queen’s Gallery (p. 46) Enter another universe at the Barbican’s sci-fi exhibition, Into the Unknown (p. 45) See Superman, Batman and other heroes in LEGO at The Art of the Brick display (p. 39) Turn back the years with The Jacksons in concert at Greenwich Mean Time (p. 48) Sing along to Meat Loaf’s hits at the new musical Bat Out of Hell (p. 50) Take a Jimi Hendrix-themed walking tour, Venues of a Legend, near Piccadilly (p. 24) It’s the final day of the Hampton Court Palace Flower Show (p. 36) Visit the Grayson Perry exhibition at the Serpentine Gallery, plus the Pavilion (p. 47) Be dazzled by Puccini’s opera Turandot at the Royal Opera House (p. 58) See Drawings from Leonardo to Rembrandt at the National Portrait Gallery (p. 46) Catch Sienna Miller starring in Cat on a Hot Tin Roof, set in steamy Mississippi (p. 52) The Girls, a charming musical adaptation of the film Calendar Girls, ends soon (p. 50) Cheer on some top footballing legends at the fun tournament, Star Sixes, at The O2 Have a pint with Al Murray, aka the Pub Landlord, at Underbelly Festival (p. 58) Get outside and watch Dickens’ Oliver Twist at Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre (p. 50) Enjoy gospel sounds from The Blind Boys of Alabama at Ronnie Scott’s (p. 60) At Sadler’s Wells, transport yourself to the streets of Buenos Aires in Tanguera (p. 58) See hundreds of works on display at the RA’s annual Summer Exhibition (p. 47) Head to Warner Bros. Studio Tour to see the new Harry Potter exhibition (p. 22) Discover Michael Morpurgo’s works at the V&A Museum of Childhood (p. 44) At Shakespeare’s Globe, Much Ado About Nothing is transported to Mexico (p. 56) At Tate Modern, the new exhibition Soul of a Nation celebrates black artists (p. 38) Head to ZSL London Zoo to see dramatic models at exhibition Zoorassic Park (p. 28) Get an insight into a unique era at Russian Revolution at The British Library (p. 24) After the tournament, visit the Wimbledon Museum and tour Centre Court (p. 44) Enjoy art and entertainment at Friday Late, at the Victoria and Albert Museum (p. 44) Tour the Houses of Parliament to go behind the scenes of British democracy (p. 28) Buy beautiful blooms at Columbia Road Flower Market in the East End See treasures from Egypt, Europe and India at The British Museum (p. 39)

For more ideas visit www.wheretraveler.com

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IN T ERN AT ION A L . INDI V IDUA L . IN S T Y L E .

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WHERE NOW | ROYAL LONDON

What do you give the woman who has everything?

A bag of salt or a totem pole. Sarah Riches unwraps Buckingham Palace’s new Royal Gifts exhibition

B

uckingham Palace is throwing open its doors once more, giving visitors the chance to explore its magnificent State Rooms. While the Queen uses the rooms to receive, reward and entertain visitors such as dignitaries, each summer the public is invited to an exhibition.

Previous summers have seen the rooms display The Queen’s Coronation (2013),

16 W H E R E LO N D O N I M AY 2016

A Royal Welcome (2015) and the Queen’s gowns in Fashioning a Reign (2016), which marked the monarch’s 90th birthday year.

This year, the rooms will be dedicated to presents given to the Queen. While perishable items are usually used or given to charity, the non-perishable gifts that are not donated to charity are stored according to curatorial advice or placed on long-term loan to cultural institutions.

CURATING THE EXHIBITION Many of the gifts given to the Queen have become part of the Royal Collection, and are displayed in 15 royal residences across the UK – most of which are open to the public. Royal Gifts (from 22 Jul) is the first display of the Queen’s gift collection.

The exhibition’s curator, Sally Goodsir, says: ‘A small number of official gifts have been on display at Buckingham Palace

BUCKINGHAM PALACE AND THE QUEEN © ISTOCK; VESSEL OF FRIENDSHIP AND UNDERGROUND SIGN © TODD WHITE; BUCKINGHAM PALACE INTERIOR © THE ROYAL COLLECTION © HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II/DERRY MOORE; THE QUEEN BY DOROTHY WILDING © WILLIAM HUSTLER AND GEORGINA HUSTLER/NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY, LONDON

during the 24 years it has been open to the public, but never on this scale. More than 250 objects from over 100 countries are on display to explore Her Majesty’s roles as Head of State, Head of the Commonwealth and Head of Nation. The exhibition includes gifts given during State visits, overseas tours and official engagements, plus those presented to mark significant moments in the Queen’s life.

‘The objects displayed will showcase fine craftsmanship from countries the Queen has visited or received visitors from.

As Her Majesty is the longest-reigning British monarch and the most travelled sovereign in British history, undertaking more than 250 overseas visits during her 65-year reign, one of the challenges was deciding what to include. Gifts from a range of countries have been selected, and particularly those which reflect local crafts and design such as glass from Scandinavia, carvings from central Africa, Aborigine and Maori objects and works of art from Australia and New Zealand.’

INTERNATIONAL GIFTS Highlights include a colourful beaded Yoruba throne, which was donated by Nigeria in 1956. Beadwork and royalty are closely associated in Yoruba culture, and large quantities of beads are considered a sign of wealth and status. The throne’s interlaced motifs hold spiritual meaning, including respect for ancestors.

You can also see a model of the ship that was sailed by the 15th-century Chinese navigator and diplomat Zeng He – it was donated by the Chinese President Xi Jinping during a State visit to Britain in 2015.

The Vessel of Friendship is decorated with a dove, an olive branch medallion and traditional Chinese symbols of friendship and peace.

Meanwhile, President Kenneth Kaunda gave the Queen a hand-beaten bowl of silver fruit on behalf of the Government Clockwise from main image: Buckingham Palace; the Queen; Vessel of Friendship from President of China Xi Jinping; interior of Buckingham Palace; Underground sign from staff at Aldgate East station; portrait of the Queen by Dorothy Wilding

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WHERE NOW | ROYAL LONDON

ROYA L PA L ACES Clarence House As the official London residence of the Prince of Wales and Duchess of Cornwall, this is where the royal couple meet guests at seminars, lunches, receptions and dinners. Guided tours take place next month – they begin in the garden then move around five rooms, including the library, dining room and garden room. www.royalcollection.org.uk

This former home of Princess Diana is located in Kensington Gardens. See the grand King’s and Queen’s State Apartments, Diana’s gowns in Diana: Her Fashion Story, and the beautiful White Garden, which blooms with English white roses. www.hrp.org.uk

Windsor Castle Windsor Castle has been the family home of British kings and queens for almost 1,000 years, making it the oldest and largest inhabited castle in the world. While it is one of the Queen’s official residences – she spends most of her private weekends here – it is still used for ceremonial occasions. www.royalcollection.org.uk

In 2013, the ambassador of the Republic of Macedonia, Jovan Donev, gave the Queen a terracotta figure of The Great Mother – a replica of a figure discovered in a Neolithic settlement in the north of Macedonia – which is also on display.

CLOSER TO HOME The exhibition displays more than 100 items the Queen has been given on her travels around the UK, too. Look out for a gilded bronze owl – a small-scale replica of the owls John Thorp designed for the plinths outside Leeds Civic Hall, which were inspired by the bird in the City of Leeds’ coat of arms. Meanwhile, staff at Aldgate East Tube station gave the Queen a Buckingham Palace London Underground sign during a visit to the station in 2010.

Goodsir adds: ‘The selection of gifts from the United Kingdom reflects the breadth of engagements which the Queen undertakes as part of her official duties, as well as British skills and craftsmanship in areas such as ceramics, woodwork, silversmithing and textiles.’

But one question remains: Just how many pairs of socks has the Queen been given, and are they in the exhibition? You’ll have to visit to find out.

Buckingham Palace, Westminster, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7300. www.royalcollection.org.uk Top image: State Room at Buckingham Palace Inset: Beaded Yoruba throne, presented to the Queen by the people of Nigeria in 1956

BUCKINGHAM PALACE © THE ROYAL COLLECTION © HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II/DERRY MOORE; YORUBA THRONE © TODD WHITE; CLARENCE HOUSE © THE ROYAL COLLECTION © HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II; KENSINGTON PALACE © GREYWOLF/THE ROYAL PARKS; WINDSOR CASTLE © PETER PACKER

Kensington Palace

and people of Zambia during the Queen’s visit to Namibia and Zimbabwe for a Commonwealth Head of Government meeting in 1991. The silver banana, pear, apple, orange, tangerine, plum, pawpaw, cherries and grapes represent fruit grown in Zambia.

Silver, thrones and ships might be obvious choices for a monarch – but Queen Sālote Tupou III of Tonga fancied being a bit different, and surprised the Queen with baskets woven from coconut leaves during her Commonwealth tour with the Duke of Edinburgh in 1953. The basket was symbolic of the island’s re-established creative industry.

But the Kwakiutl people from Canada’s northwest coast topped Queen Sālote by donating a 78cm carved wooden totem pole, decorated with the outstretched wings of a mythical thunderbird, during a visit in 1971.

The Queen also receives gifts on her birthday and anniversaries such as the Jubilee, which reference the historical or personal relationship between the monarch and the nation. Salt Island, one of the British Virgin Islands, presented her with a linen bag of salt for her 90th birthday. The present reflected the island’s tradition of paying the monarch an annual rent of a pound of salt on their birthday.

Every year the Queen has more than 100 private meetings, known as audiences, with leading public figures such as new ambassadors and high commissioners, who often give a gift that represents their nation.

WHERE NOW | PARA ATHLETICS

ver since Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park hosted the 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games, London is firmly on the world sporting map. After those memorable events, the stadium has staged major contests including the annual Anniversary Games (a high-profile athletics tournament) and, last year, it was transformed into the home of West Ham football club.

It’s athletics that takes centre stage at the landmark stadium once again, as it hosts the largest event since the Olympics: the World Para Athletics Championships 2017 (14-23 Jul), followed by the IAAF World Championships (4-13 Aug). This is the first time that these two prestigious competitions will be held in the same city.

So what can we expect from this month’s championships? London 2012 was said to be the greatest ever Paralympics – not only in terms of crowd numbers, but also how it elevated the standard, prestige and global respect of the sports. It also helped change our perception of disability sports, and of people with disabilities.

British medal winners, such as swimmer Ellie Simmonds and 100m sprinter Jonnie Peacock, became household names. In 2012, Great Britain won an astounding 120 medals (the second highest, behind China) and even more in the 2016 Rio Paralympics, winning 147.

The electric atmosphere in London amazed many of the athletes. ‘The first time I heard them cheer for Jonnie [Peacock] in the final in 2012 is my outstanding memory,’ US Paralympian Richard Browne commented.

‘It’s like everybody in the country screamed, not just the stadium. There was so much support and it made me feel good that all these people support and admire what we do. London is the best place for that.’

Those events were all sold out – something that the organisers of this year’s championships

LONDON HELD THE GREATEST PARALYMPICS 14 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2017

Emma Levine previews the World Para Athletics Championships – and discovers how London is making itself accessible

are eager to repeat. Schemes such as the ‘Bolt ticket’ – £9.58 tickets for children – plus the Mayor of London’s scheme, allowing 250,000 London children to apply for tickets for as little as £3, will ensure that the stands are filled.

While that’s good news for the competitors and organisers, it’s not so great for visitors hoping to attend. Those wishing to snap up any remaining tickets can register on the official website (https://tickets.london2017athletics.com), where fans can post unwanted tickets up to 48 hours before the session. Good luck! www.paraathleticschampionships.com Clockwise from left: Athlete Richard Whitehead; Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park; wheelchair racer Hannah Cockroft

WHAT TO WATCH The action comes thick and fast from the opening evening until the final event, with 10 days of sporting action and medal contention. Here are some of the medal-winning final rounds to catch: 14 JUL: Women’s 100m (T34); men 100m (T54) 15 JUL: Men’s 100m (T34); women’s 200m (T53) 16 JUL: Women’s 400m (T44); men’s high jump (T47) 17 JUL: Men’s triple jump (T47); women’s javelin (F56) 18 JUL: Men’s 400m (T53); women’s javelin (F11) 19 JUL: Men’s long jump (T47); women’s 400m (T53) 20 JUL: Men’s 800m (T34); women’s 400m (T34) 21 JUL: Women’s discus (F55); men’s 100m (T31) 22 JUL: Men’s 200m (T44); women’s shot put (F53) 23 JUL: Men’s and women’s 4 x100 relay (T11-13); men’s 5,000m (T54)

This image: Adele Inset: Elton John

WHERE NOW | PARA ATHLETICS

Access on London’s public transport and at major attractions has improved vastly over the years, making it easier for people with disabilities to enjoy the capital and get around relatively trouble-free. Legislation has also helped to make the capital one of the best cities in Europe for accessibility.

GETTING AROUND Almost all buses – whether single or double-decker – have wheelchair ramps, with a dedicated wheelchair space, plus low-floor entry for those with other mobility issues. Every black cab has a wheelchair ramp that can be extended to the kerb.

London has the world’s oldest Underground Libby Clegg

Aled Davies

network so although it’s SIGHTSEEING This free festival celebrating deaf not in tip-top shape for Most of London’s leading and disability arts full accessibility, around museums and attractions takes place in Queen a quarter of Tube stations have good lift and ramp Elizabeth Olympic Park have step-free access. access. It is also possible to between 1.30pm and 6.30pm on Saturday Some stations have platform borrow a wheelchair at some 15 July humps for easy wheelchair of the major attractions such as access on to the train. In Tate Modern, The British Museum, addition, half the Overground Buckingham Palace, the London Eye, stations, most piers for boat cruises and Westminster Abbey and the Natural History all DLR stations have step-free access.

Museum (booking required). Even some of Look on the Tube map for step-free London’s Grade I-listed buildings, such as Underground, Overground and DLR stations; Sir John Soane’s Museum, are now accessible the blue symbol indicates step-free access by wheelchair but it is advisable to check from street to train, while the white symbol in advance. Visitors with visual impairments shows step-free access from street can also make use of audio guides at many to platform. of these venues, as well as magnifying Hannah Cockroft

OVERLEAF: RICHARD WHITEHEAD © MATT LEWIS/BRITISH ATHLETICS VIA GETTY; OLYMPIC PARK © ISTOCK; HANNAH COCKROFT © PAUL GILHAM/GETTY. THIS PAGE: THE BRITISH MUSEUM IMAGES COURTESY OF THE BRITISH MUSEUM;

LIBERTY

ACCESSIBLE LONDON

DLR AND BUS COURTESY OF TRANSPORT FOR LONDON; HANNAH COCKROFT, ALED DAVIES AND LIBBY CLEGG © BRITISH ATHLETICS LONDON EYE © ISTOCK; TRAVEL SUPPORT CARD COURTESY OF TRANSPORT FOR LONDON; TATE MODERN © TATE BRITISH ATHLETICS

glasses and large-print guides to read the documents more easily. Although assistance dogs are welcome everywhere, they are not able to enter ZSL London Zoo. ENTERTAINMENT Modern theatres and concert halls such as the Barbican, National Theatre and Royal Festival Hall have excellent access facilities, including hearing loops. Access London Theatre has details and listings of audio description, captioning, BSL interpretation and ‘relaxed’ performances for those with autism spectrum conditions and learning disabilities. Check before you buy tickets, as some of our older venues can be difficult to access in a wheelchair.

WHO TO WATCH The tournament hosts approximately 1,300 of the world’s best para athletes from more than 200 countries. Wheelchair marathon champion David Weir is one of the most prominent stars to have recently retired from track competitions, but there are plenty more British superstars to look out for: JOANNA BUTTERFIELD (age 38); wheelchair athlete Sport: F51 & F31 club and discus throw Medals: Paralympic gold (2016), IPC World Champion (2015) LIBBY CLEGG (27); visual impairment Sport: T12 100m & 200m Medals: Paralympics 100m silver (2012); IPC European Championships 100m & 200m gold

HOTELS & RESTAURANTS The majority of London’s hotels have a decent level of disability access, with some offering fully accessible guest rooms and bathrooms. It is worth checking in advance for access requirements in smaller guesthouses, especially in older buildings, as lifts may not be permitted to be installed in listed buildings. Restaurants are usually equipped with ground-floor accessible toilets, although some of London’s older Victorian bars are not.

Left-hand page, clockwise: Large-print guide at The British Museum; The British Museum; a wheelchair on a London bus; step-free access on the Docklands Light Railway.

Right-hand page, clockwise: London Eye; Travel Support Card; Tate Modern

HANNAH COCKROFT (24); wheelchair athlete Sport: T34 100m & 200m Medals: Paralympic T34 100m, 400m & 800m gold ALED DAVIES (26); limb impairment Sport: F42 shot put & discus throw Medals: world record in shot put & discus throw; Paralympics discus gold (2012 & 2016)

GUIDE TO EVENT CLASSIFICATIONS Each discipline has a code, e.g. T34 T = track F = field The first digit indicates type of disability: 1 = visual impairment 2 = intellectual impairment 3 = co-ordination impairment 4 = limb deficiencies & short stature 5 = impaired muscle power/range of movement The second digit indicates level of disability: 1 = most impaired 8 = least impaired

JONNIE PEACOCK (24); limb impairment Sport: T44 100m Medals: double Paralympic gold (2012 & 2016), IPC World Champion (2013), IPC European Champion (2014 & 2016) JASON SMYTH (30); visual impairment Sport: T13 100m & 200m Medals: Paralympic gold 100m (2008, 2012, 2016), 200m (2008, 2012)

RICHARD WHITEHEAD (40); limb impairment Jonnie Peacock Sport: T42 200m & 100m GEORGINA HERMITAGE Medals: Paralympic gold 200m (29); cerebral palsy (2012 & 2016); 200m IPC World Sport: T37 100m & 200m, T 35-38 Champion (2011, 2013, 2015); IPC 4x100m European Champion (2012, 2016) Medals: 100m Paralympic gold (2016)

www.wheretraveler.com 17

WHERE NOW | SHOPPING

TIME FOR TEA The Twinings store on the Strand is one of the oldest shops in London Discovery Collections (English Breakfast and Lady Grey), £8.50 each, Beauty and the Tea Hamper, £65, all Twinings, 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP

RAISE A GLASS A magnum of 1,500ml Moët & Chandon Impérial Brut NV Champagne, £99, Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB

FROM LONDON Here are gifts fit for a Queen!

They’re all made by Royal Warrant Holders, suppliers to the royal household

Top Pick

BAGS OF STYLE This bag is a tribute to trench leather, the fabric at the heart of Burberry’s history The Medium DK88 Top Handle Bag, £1,695, Burberry, 121 Regent St, W1B 4TB PUT YOUR MONEY ON IT This card holder has an embossed Burberry logo on the front Two-tone Trench Leather Card Case, £150, Burberry, 121 Regent St, W1B 4TB

18 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2017

HAPPY HAMPERS Celebrate with Italy’s finest food and drink Italian Indulgence Hamper, £100, Carluccio’s, St Christopher’s Place, W1U 1AJ

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF THE RETAILERS; WOMAN © ISTOCK

BEAR HUGS This teddy bear wears Harrods’ signature ribbon Jacob Bear (26cm), £14.95, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL

A CLOSE SHAVE A sophisticated and stylish shaving set Nickel Shaving Set, £146, Penhaligon’s, 125 Regent St, W1B 4HT

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SIGHTSEEING | THE GUIDE

Flower power If a bunch of flowers can bring a smile to your face, then imagine how you’ll react to seeing 250,000 beautiful blooms at Hampton Court Palace Flower Show (3-9 Jul). The Royal Horticultural Society (RHS), which is behind the event, has been hosting flower shows since 1820.

The director of RHS Shows, Nick Mattingley, says: ‘At more than twice the size of the RHS Chelsea Flower Show [in May] and just a stone’s throw from London, Hampton Court Palace Flower Show is the best place for budding and expert gardeners who want advice, ideas, inspiration and an abundance of plants and gardening merchandise to beautify their outdoor spaces.’

The show kicks off with live music, dancing, prizes and a firework display (3 Jul). This year, the event addresses the impact of climate change and poaching on wildlife. Among the many gardens on display, Not for Sale highlights the threat of poaching with an arch of 200 elephant tusks which you can 20 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2017

stroll through to sounds of the African savannah. Meanwhile, Holding Back the Flood is inspired by Pickering, a Yorkshire village that is prone to flooding.

There will also be a kitchen garden brimming with fragrant, edible plants, sponsored by Blind Veterans UK; a spiral-shaped garden bursting with 2,000 plants that are in every colour of the rainbow to explore how colour can affect mood; and a garden inspired by the coastline and pier in Southend-on-Sea, Essex, which was created by young offenders.

As well as the gardens, there is also a floral marquee, talks by TV wildlife presenters Chris Packham and Michaela Strachan, and 300 stalls selling everything from glass art and gardening gloves to hog roasts, glasses of Pimm’s and locally grown strawberries.

You can also watch cookery demonstrations by chef Jean-Christophe Novelli. No doubt that will whet your appetite, so why not sample Champagne and seafood while gazing at the channel of water behind the palace? You can also enjoy the fine-dining Allium Restaurant at the centre of the show, which has views of the palace’s deer park.

There’s plenty for children, too. As well as a kids’ cookery school, scarecrow competition and butterfly dome, look out for a woodland garden with a water feature, painting activities and a musical path to stimulate the senses, which will also be suitable for adults with disabilities. So don’t beat around the bush – go and buy your ticket today.

For full listing, see p. 36

MAIN IMAGE © BETHANY CLARKE/RHS; INSET IMAGE © LUKE MACGREGOR/RHS

The glorious Hampton Court Palace Flower Show is back for another summer – and this year it is giving a powerful message about environmental threats, says Sarah Riches

THE VIEW YOU’LL NEVER FORGET

Book Online & Save

londoneye.com Conceived and designed by Marks Barfield Architects.

‘Coca-Cola’, the Dynamic Ribbon Device and the design of the ‘Coca-Cola Contour Bottle’ are registered trademarks of The Coca-Cola Company.

SIGHTSEEING T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and last entry time. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 88-89

Top Pick

SIGHTSEEING Apsley House Visit the home of the Duke of Wellington to see its grand interiors and wonderful collection of fine art. Please check for prices and times. www.english-heritage.org.uk/apsleyhouse.

149 Piccadilly, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7NT. T: 020-7499 5676. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

ArcelorMittal Orbit This 115m-tall observation tower, designed by Turner Prize-winning artist Sir Anish Kapoor, offers 20-mile views over Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park and beyond. Adventurous types can abseil down it or whizz down its 178m tunnel slide, which is the longest tunnel slide in the world (check for dates).

Mon-Fri 11am-5pm; Sat-Sun 10am-6pm. Adult £12.50; child £7.50. www.arcelormittalorbit.com.

Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2SS. T: 0333800 8099. Off map. Station: Stratford.

Dress to impress Hogwarts’ school robes and Hermione’s Yule Ball gown are just some of the costumes from Harry Potter films that you can see in Wizarding Wardrobes at Warner Bros. Studio Tour London (from 21 Jul; p. 32). Explore the design process from initial sketches to the finished product, and find out how new fabric is made to look centuries old or battle-torn through the art of costume distressing. The exhibition showcases thousands of costumes that were created over a period of 10 years, and, because many pieces have not been on display before, you’ll be among the first to see them.

Banqueting House This 17th-century building was designed by Inigo Jones for King James I, with an exquisite painted ceiling by celebrated Baroque artist Peter Paul Rubens. It is the only remaining part of the Palace of Westminster, which was destroyed by fire.

Daily 10am-1pm, but please check before visiting (closed 6-9 Jul). Adult £6.50; child free. www.hrp. org.uk. Whitehall, SW1A 2ER. T: 020-3166 6000.

E8. Station: Westminster.

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SIGHTSEEING Battersea Park Children’s Zoo Zoo with keeper experiences, a play area and a petting farm with donkeys, chinchillas and goats. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Adult £9.50; child £7.50. www.batterseaparkzoo.co.uk. Battersea Park, Chelsea Bridge Gate, SW11 4NJ. T: 020-7924 5826. Off map. Station: Battersea Park.

The British Library

Get into the groove

Buckingham Palace The London residence and principal workplace of the monarchy has 775 rooms as well as the largest private garden in the capital, complete with a lake.

From 22 Jul: Buckingham Palace’s annual Summer Opening allows visitors to explore the State Rooms and see the temporary Royal Gifts exhibition – and find out who gave the Queen a bag of salt (p. 10). From 22 Jul daily 9am-7.30pm.

Adult £23; child £13. www.royalcollection.org.uk.

Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria/Green Park.

JIMI HENDRIX © BARRIE WENTZELL

Handel & Hendrix in London (p. 28) has launched Jimi Hendrix-themed walking tours, which include a guided tour of the late American rock guitarist’s home at 23 Brook Street.

Jimi’s Footsteps (1 Jul) visits seven sites around Mayfair and Marble Arch to see the musician’s favourite spots and the location of his last official interview; Venues of a Legend (8 Jul) takes you to nine sites around Piccadilly including the studios where Foxy Lady was recorded, the location of his band’s first rehearsal and the venue of their debut performance; while The Final Performance (15 Jul) guides you around nine locations on Oxford Street and in Soho, including the site of his last public performance.

The world’s largest library also boasts temporary exhibitions and a great permanent collection.

To 29 Aug: Russian Revolution: Hope, Tragedy, Myths. A century on from the Russian Revolution, this major exhibition shines new light on the world-changing event with art, documents and photos. Exhibition galleries Mon 9.30am-6pm; Tue-Thur 9.30am-8pm; Fri 9.30am-6pm; Sat 9.30am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Admission free; charges for tours, some exhibitions and events. www.bl.uk. 96 Euston Rd, NW1 2DB. T: 0330-333 1144. C7. Station: King’s Cross.

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SIGHTSEEING Changing the Guard

Cutty Sark

Eltham Palace & Gardens

Watch the changing of the Queen’s Guard on the Palace’s forecourt (except in very wet weather).

During the ceremony, one regiment takes over from another. The Queen’s Guard consists of the St James’s Palace and Buckingham Palace detachments. The New Guard, which during the course of the ceremony becomes the Queen’s Guard, marches to Buckingham Palace from Wellington Barracks. Free. Check for times and days. www.householddivision.org.uk. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7300.

F6/F7. Station: Victoria/Green Park.

This 19th-century ship is the world’s last surviving tea clipper. Explore interactive displays on deck or take part in a lively programme of family-friendly events. 5, 12, 19 & 26 Jul: Toddler Time. Bring your little sailors along for songs, stories and playtime.

14-16 & 20-30 Jul: Comedy nights with Elf Lyons, Angela Barnes, Felicity Ward and more. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £13.50; child £7. Joint tickets with Royal Observatory available. www.rmg.co.uk/ cuttysark. Cutty Sark, King William Walk, SE10 9HT. T: 020-8312 6608. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.

Experience the decade of decadence as you are transported back to the 1930s. Part showpiece of Art Deco design and part medieval royal palace, and once home of Henry VIII, it’s now owned by the millionaire Courtaulds. Please check for prices and times. www.english-heritage.org.uk/eltham.

Court Yard, SE9 5QE. T: 020-8294 2548. Off map.

Station: Eltham.

Chelsea Physic Garden

Dennis Severs’ House

At London’s oldest botanic garden, you can admire 5,000 species of plants, including medicinal ones. Adult £10.50; child £6.95. Mon 11am-5pm garden only; Tue-Fri 11am-6pm garden and shop; Sun 11am-6pm garden, shop and café. www.chelsea physicgarden.co.uk. 66 Royal Hospital Rd, SW3 4HS. T: 020-7352 5646. Off map. Station: Sloane Square.

Visitors are able to explore the home of the late American artist Dennis Severs. Ten rooms, from the cellar to the attic, illustrate the life of a family of Huguenot silk weavers from the 17th to 19th centuries. Silent night tour Mon, Wed & Fri 5pm-9pm. Daytime tour Mon noon-2pm & Sun noon-4pm. Tickets £5-£15. www.dennissevers house.co.uk. 18 Folgate St, E1 6BX. T: 020-7247 4013. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

Chiswick House & Gardens Trust See Old Masters on display in this manor, which features neo-Palladian interiors designed by William Kent, and architecture inspired by ancient Rome and 16th-century Italy. The 18th-century restored gardens inspired Blenheim Palace and New York’s Central Park. Gardens daily 7amdusk year round; house Sun-Wed 10am-6pm; conservatory Tue-Sun 10am-4pm. House adult £7.20; child £4.30. www.chgt.org.uk. Chiswick House & Gardens, W4 2RP. T: 020-8995 0508.

Off map. Station: Chiswick Park.

Dr Johnson’s House Writer Dr Samuel Johnson compiled his first English dictionary, first published in 1755, in this period home, which dates from the 18th century.

See a collection relating to Johnson, a research library, restored interiors and a wealth of original features. Mon-Sat 11am-5.30pm. Adult £6; child £2.50. www.drjohnsonshouse.org. 17 Gough Square, EC4A 3DE. T: 020-7353 3745. D9. Station: Temple/ Chancery Lane.

Fulham Palace This attractive 15th-century building was the summer retreat of the Bishops of London.

Now it’s a museum with gardens, a café and art gallery. It has regular kids’ crafts, guided walks with a head gardener and historical tours.

28-29 Jul: Jazz at the Palace. Musicians including vocalist Emma Smith perform outdoors.

Museum, historic rooms and shop Mon-Thur 12.30pm-4.30pm; Sun noon-5pm. Admission free, charges for special events. www.fulham palace.org. Bishop’s Avenue, SW6 6EA. T: 0207736 3233. Off map. Station: Putney Bridge.

Go Ape Alexandra Palace A fantastic new tree-top obstacle course with ladders, bridges and zip lines has opened for kids at this grand palace atop a hill in north London, which has beautiful views of the capital. Make a day of it and enjoy the boating lake nearby. A course for adults is coming soon.

Daily from 9am. Adult from £33; child from £25. www.goape.co.uk. Alexandra Palace, Alexandra Palace Way, N22 7AY. T: 0330-057 2329. Off map.

Station: Alexandra Palace.

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Kensington Palace

Make like a monkey at this tree-top adventure playground, which is suitable for children over six and adults. Negotiate ladders, bridges and zip lines while attached to a reassuring harness. Enthusiastic staff are on hand throughout the three-and-a-half-hour experience. Daily from 8.30am. Adult £35; child £27. www.goape.co.uk.

Battersea Park, SW11 4NJ. T: 0330-057 2329.

Off map. Station: Battersea Park.

This royal residence sits in Kensington Gardens and was Princess Diana’s last home. To 28 Feb 2018: Diana: Her Fashion Story. Exhibition dedicated to the style of the ‘people’s princess’. To 12 Nov: Enlightened Princesses: Caroline, Augusta, Charlotte and the Shaping of the Modern World. Learn about three women who married into the British royal family. Daily, check for times. Adult £17; child free. www.hrp.org.uk. Kensington Gardens, W8 4PX. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington/Queensway.

Golden Hinde II A full-size reconstruction of Sir Francis Drake’s 16th-century vessel, in which he circumnavigated the globe. Regular events include dressing up in historical costumes, quiz and jazz nights and battle workshops. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Guided tour adult £7; child £5. www.goldenhinde.com.

1 Pickfords Wharf, Clink St, SE1 9DG. T: 020-7403 0123. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Ham House and Gardens One of Europe’s greatest 17th-century houses with gardens are said to be haunted. Please check for times. Adult £10.80; child £5.40. www.national trust.org.uk. Ham St, Surrey, TW10 7RS. T: 0208940 1950. Off map. Station: Richmond.

Handel & Hendrix in London The former homes of Anglo-German composer George Frideric Handel and American guitarist Jimi Hendrix. See where Handel lived and composed for 36 years, plus Hendrix’s bedroom restored to how it was between 1968 and 1969. 1, 8 & 15 Jul: Guided Walking Tours. Visit Jimi Hendrix’s favourite spots (p. 24). Mon-Sat 11pm-6pm; Sun noon-6pm. Adult £10; child £5. www.handelhouse.org. 25 Brook St, W1K 4HB. T: 020-7495 1685. D6. Station: Bond Street.

HMS Belfast Permanently moored on the River Thames, this ship is Europe’s only surviving World War II cruiser.

In service until 1965, it’s now a reminder of Britain’s naval heritage. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £14.50; child £7.25. www.iwm.org.uk. The Queen’s Walk, off Tooley St, SE1 2JH. T: 020-7940 6300. E11.

Station: London Bridge.

Houses of Parliament

©THINKSTOCK

Site of Parliament since 1265 and still a royal palace, the current building including Big Ben was built in the 19th century. Tours every Sat plus Mon-Fri from 24 Jul. Advance audio tour adult £18.50, child £7.50 (first child free); guided tour adult £25.50, child £11. On the day audio tour adult £20.50, child £8.50 (first child free); guided tour adult £28, child £12; please check before visiting. Watch debates for free when the Houses are in session Mon-Fri (check for days). www.parliament.uk/visit. Palace of Westminster, Parliament Square, SW1A 0AA. T: 020-7219 4114. F8. Station: Westminster.

The Jewel Tower Built around 1365 to house Edward III’s treasures, this is one of only two buildings remaining from the medieval Palace of Westminster after an 1834 fire.

Check for prices and times. www.english-heritage. org.uk. Abingdon St, SW1P 3JX. T: 020-7222 2219.

F8. Station: Westminster.

Keats House

where

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28 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2017

This 19th-century home belonged to the Romantic poet John Keats. See his paintings, books, letters and household items, plus the engagement ring he gave to Fanny Brawne. Wed-Sun 11am-5pm.

Adult £6.50; child free. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/ keatshousehampstead. Keats Grove, NW3 2RR. T: 020-7332 3868. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

Kenwood On the edge of Hampstead Heath, Kenwood house with its landscaped gardens is a hidden gem. Admire Robert Adams’ interiors and an art collection made up of Rembrandt, Vermeer and Gainsborough. Free admission. Please check for times. www.english-heritage.org.uk/kenwood.

Hampstead Lane, NW3 7JR. T: 020-8348 1286.

Off map. Station: Hampstead.

KidZania London Parents take a back seat here as children take charge. Three times the size of Trafalgar Square, KidZania has two storeys of everything a child could want including TV and animation studios, a chocolate factory, pit lane and aviation academy – there’s even a tattoo parlour. Daily from 10am; call for closing times. Adult from £15; child from £19. www.london.kidzania.com. Westfield London Shopping Centre, Ariel Way, W12 7GA. T: 0330-131 3333. Off map. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.

The London Bridge Experience & Tombs An exciting history lesson on the history of the 1,700-year-old London Bridge site. Special effects and actors bring this scary attraction to life. Tickets include the London Tombs, which are in a former plague pit. Check for times and prices. www.the londonbridgeexperience.com. 2-4 Tooley St, SE1 2SY. T: 020-7403 6333. E10. Station: London Bridge.

The London Dungeon This thrilling attraction whisks you back to the capital’s most perilous past. See, hear, feel and smell the characters of the ‘bad old days’. Not for small children or the faint-hearted. Joint tickets with SEA Life London Aquarium, Coca-Cola London Aquarium, London Eye, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! available. Check for times and prices. www.thedungeons.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-423 2240.

F8. Station: Waterloo/Embankment.

Coca-Cola London Eye This London icon is one of the world’s largest observation wheels. Interactive screens in each pod give an insight into landmarks on view. Joint tickets with the London Aquarium, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! available. Check for times and prices. www.london eye.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. F8. Station: Waterloo.

ZSL London Zoo Immerse yourself in the animal kingdom at the world’s oldest scientific zoo, which has more than 750 species. As well as an aquarium, penguin beach and endangered Sumatran tigers, you can visit the Land of the Lions enclosure, home to Asiatic lions in surroundings like an Indian national park.

From 22 Jul: Zoorassic Park. Temporary exhibition with life-size, moving dinosaur replicas. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £29.75; child £22. www.zsl.org. Regent’s Park, NW1 4RY. T: 020-7722 3333. C6. Station: Camden Town.

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SIGHTSEEING Madame Tussauds

The Monument

Old Royal Naval College

The celebrated home of life-sized wax figures, depicting famous people from the worlds of entertainment, politics, sport and history, including King Kong! Don’t miss the permanent Star Wars exhibition, featuring 11 sets from the films. Detective fans will enjoy The Sherlock Holmes Experience as well as the evening show The Game’s Afoot, an immersive attraction with actors, illusion and sound effects. Joint tickets with the London Aquarium, London Dungeon, London Eye and Shrek’s Adventure! available. Check for times.

Adult £35; child £30. www.madametussauds.com/ london. Marylebone Rd, NW1 5LR. T: 0871-894 3000. C6. Station: Baker Street.

This stone column standing in the heart of the City was built in 1677 to commemorate the Great Fire of London. Climb the 311 steps to its observation gallery. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £4.50; child £2.30.

Tickets with the Tower Bridge Exhibition available. www.themonument.org.uk. Monument St, EC3R 6BD. T: 020-7626 2717. E10. Station: Monument.

This Baroque masterpiece, part of the Maritime Greenwich World Heritage Site, is the home of British naval training, with costumed characters and tours. Don’t miss the magnificent ceiling in the Painted Hall. During a temporary conservation project, you can see the ceiling up close on an hour-long tour from an observation deck (adult £10; child £5). Check for guided tours. Daily, check for opening times. Admission free. www.ornc.org.

King William Walk, SE10 9NN. T: 020-8269 4799.

Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.

The O2 Music and exhibition venue. Star Wars Identities. See 200 original sketches, models and props from the film franchise. Mon-Sat 10am-6pm. Tickets £10-£25. www.theo2.co.uk. Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 0208463 2000. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park Formerly the site of the London 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games, this park includes an aquatics centre and the ArcelorMittal Orbit observation tower. Check for sporting events. Park open 24 hours daily. Admission free. www.queenelizabeth olympicpark.co.uk. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2ST. T: 0800-072 2110. Off map. Station: Stratford.

Ripley’s Believe It or Not! This curiosity-filled museum with more than 700 artefacts is a hit across the globe. Explore a range of oddities over six floors, from a shrunken head to an albino alligator and the world’s tallest man. Daily 10am-midnight. Adult £27.99; child £20.99. www.ripleyslondon.com. 1 Piccadilly Circus, W1J 0DA. T: 020-3238 0022. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew Better known as Kew Gardens, this botanical research centre and World Heritage Site contains plants from across the globe, with Victorian tropical greenhouses and a Chinese pagoda. The Treetop Walkway offers great views. Throughout 2017 you can also experience The Hive, a huge aluminium structure modelled on a beehive surrounded by wildflowers. Buzzing sounds and lights are activated inside it in response to a real beehive. Don’t miss Kew Palace – admission is free with Kew Gardens tickets. Daily from 10am, check for closing times.

Adult £15; child £3.50; charges for special exhibitions. www.kew.org. Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 3AB. T: 020-8332 5655. Off map. Station: Kew Gardens.

The Royal Institution of Great Britain Grade I-listed Georgian building housing a museum about the institution’s 15 Nobel Prize-winning scientists. Visit its free Faraday Museum to see scientists at work, too. Check for its series of talks.

Mon-Fri 9am-6pm. Admission free; charges for talks. www.rigb.org. 21 Albemarle St, W1S 4BS. T: 020-7409 2992. E6. Station: Green Park.

The Royal Mews Built by John Nash in 1825, this beautiful part of Buckingham Palace houses the Queen’s vehicles and horses. Mon-Sat 10am-5pm. Adult £10; child £5.80. www.royalcollection.org.uk. Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 1QH. T: 0303-123 7302. F6.

Station: Victoria.

The Royal Observatory The home of Greenwich Mean Time and London’s only planetarium, which has astronomer workshops and observatory tours. Learn about time in the Peter Harrison Galleries and watch planetarium shows all day. The Sky Tonight. Daily planetarium show that explores the moon, constellations, planets and deep space objects. Meridian Line and observatory daily 10am-4.30pm. Adult £9.50; child £5. www.rmg.co.uk. Blackheath Avenue, SE10 8XJ. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich/ Maze Hill/Cutty Sark.

30 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2017

SIGHTSEEING SEA LIFE London

Tower Bridge Exhibition

Tower of London

One of Europe’s largest aquariums with 500 species of global marine life and walk-through tank tunnels, including a scary glass walkway above 16 sharks. Ocean Invaders: Enter the World of Jellyfish. New permanent section with displays of mesmerising jellyfish. You can also snorkel with sharks (from £80 including admission). Check for times and prices. Joint tickets with London Eye, London Dungeon, Shrek’s Adventure! and Madame Tussauds available. www.sealife.co.uk/london.

County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0333-321 2001. F8. Station: Westminster/Waterloo.

This breathtakingly beautiful bridge, which was designed in 1884, is one of London’s most famous landmarks. You can also tour the Victorian engine rooms with a knowledgeable guide and take a yoga class on the glass walkways, 42m above the River Thames (please check for dates and times).

To 31 Dec: Art at the Bridge: Construction – Destruction – Reconstruction. See artworks in a variety of techniques by 13 local artists – the theme is ‘change’. Joint tickets with The Monument are available. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Please check for prices and bridge lift times. www.towerbridge. org.uk. Tower Bridge Rd, SE1 2UP. T: 020-7403 3761. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

This historic landmark includes the Bloody Tower, Traitors’ Gate and the Jewel House, home of the Crown Jewels. Free guided tours by ‘Beefeaters’ (Yeoman Warders). Book ahead online to attend the nightly Ceremony of the Keys, which dates back to 1340 (tickets are free). Look out for a group of seven captive ravens whose presence is traditionally believed to protect the Crown and the tower; a superstition holds that ‘if the Tower of London ravens are lost or fly away, the Crown will fall and Britain with it’. Tue-Sat 9am-5.30pm; Sun-Mon 10am-5.30pm. Check for prices. www.hrp. org.uk/tower-of-london. Tower Hill, EC3N 4AB. T: 0844-482 7799. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

Shrek’s Adventure!

Ride the magical 4D ‘DreamWorks Tours’ bus to step into live actor fairytale-themed shows where you can meet the characters from the films. Joint tickets with London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and SEA Life London Aquarium available. Please check for times. Adult £27.50; child £22. www.shreksadventure.com. Riverside Building, County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-221 2837. F8. Station: Waterloo.

St James’s Palace One of London’s oldest palaces, St James’s was constructed in the 14th century and was home to royalty for three centuries. Palace and house closed to the public. www.royal.gov.uk. Marlborough Rd, SW1A 1BS. E7. Station: St James’s Park.

St Katharine Docks This central London marina dates back to the 11th century and is tucked away by the Tower of London. The vibrant waterside destination is lined with regular markets, shops, galleries and restaurants. www.skdocks.co.uk. 50 St Katharine’s Way, E1W 1LA. T: 020-7264 5287. Off map.

Station: Tower Hill.

St Martin-in-the-Fields Landmark Palladian church with tours, a brassrubbing centre and live classical music (some free). Holy Communion given daily. You can also visit the Café in the Crypt and the Café in the Courtyard for food at reasonable prices. Please check for opening times. Admission free; brass rubbing from £4.50. www.stmartin-in-the-fields.org.

Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100.

E8. Station: Charing Cross.

St Paul’s Cathedral Sir Christopher Wren’s 300-year-old cathedral has stunning mosaics. Climb up the dome to the Whispering Gallery and a further 271 steps to the Golden Gallery for a classic London panorama.

Then head down to the crypt, with its monuments to Wren and Lord Nelson. Don’t miss Oculus: An Eye into St Paul’s, a 270-degree film experience, for an excellent overview. Free tours. Mon-Sat 8.30am4.30pm. Adult £18; child £8. www.stpauls.co.uk.

St Paul’s Churchyard, EC4M 8AD. T: 020-7246 8350.

D9/10. Station: St Paul’s.

18 Stafford Terrace This house gives an insight into the personal lives of Punch cartoonist Edward Linley Sambourne, his wife Marion, their two children and their live-in servants, who lived here from 1875. A highlight is a costumed actor-led tour, on which you’ll meet Mrs Sambourne or her parlour maid Mrs Reffell. Wed, Sat-Sun pre-booked tours 11am; drop in 2pm-5.30pm. Adult from £7; child from £5. www.rbkc.gov.uk. 18 Stafford Terrace, W8 7BH. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

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www.wheretraveler.com 31

SIGHTSEEING The Vault Located under the old Coutts Bank, the vault was originally used to protect the Queen’s treasures.

Now part of Hard Rock Cafe, it is home to iconic rock ‘n’ roll memorabilia including the Gaultier bustier from Madonna’s Blond Ambition tour.

Daily 11.30am-10.30pm. Admission free. www.hard rock.com. Hard Rock Cafe London, 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 020-7514 1700. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

The View from The Shard Ascend the tallest building in Western Europe in a high-speed ‘kaleidoscopic’ lift. At 310m, on a clear day you can see as far as Windsor – and

if you can’t see four major landmarks you can visit again for free. If you pre-book you can also do yoga on Saturdays at 8.30am (£45). Daily 10am10pm. Advance adult £25.95, child £19.95; on the day adult £30.95, child £24.95. www.theviewfrom theshard.com. 32 London Bridge St, SE1 9SG. T: 0844-499 7111. E10. Station: London Bridge.

From 21 Jul: Wizarding Wardrobes. See thousands of costumes from the film franchise (p. 22). Please check for times. Adult £39; child £31. Booking essential. www.wbstudiotour.co.uk.

Studio Tour Drive, Leavesden, Hertfordshire, WD25 7LS. T: 0845-084 0900. Off map. Station: Euston to Watford Junction, then shuttle bus.

Warner Bros. Studio Tour London

Wellington Arch

Explore behind the scenes of the legendary Harry Potter films in The Making of Harry Potter tour. Visitors can witness iconic sets including the Great Hall, Hagrid’s Hut, Diagon Alley and a recreation of Platform 9¾. This great tour provides a fascinating insight into filmmaking.

Climb to the viewing galleries of this magnificent arch for panoramic views over the Royal Parks and Houses of Parliament, plus exhibitions. Joint tickets available with Apsley House. Daily 10am-5pm.

Adult £4.70; child £2.80. www.english-heritage. org.uk. Apsley Way, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7JZ. T: 020-7930 2726. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Westminster Abbey Consecrated in 1065, this abbey is the crowning and burial site of most English monarchs. It also houses Poets’ Corner, the burial place of Charles Dickens and other famous writers. There have been at least 16 royal weddings at the abbey since 1100. Mon-Sat; check for times. Adult £20; child £9. www.westminster-abbey.org. 20 Dean’s Yard, SW1P 3PA. T: 020-7222 5152. F7. Station: Westminster/St James’s Park.

WWT London Wetland Centre This 104-acre wildlife reserve has the Water’s Edge Café overlooking lakes, ponds and gardens which are home to more than 100 species of rare and wild birds. Otters are fed daily at 11am and 2pm.

15-23 Jul: Dragonfly Week. Daily 9.30am-4.30pm.

Adult £12.26; child £6.75. www.wwt.org.uk. Queen Elizabeth’s Walk, SW13 9WT. T: 020-8409 4400.

Off map. Station: Barnes.

FESTIVALS & EVENTS Hyper Japan 14-16 Jul: It’s that time of year again – dress up like a gothic Little Bo Peep, make wasabi pizza, ride in a rickshaw and sing J-Pop in karaoke. Yes, Hyper Japan is back. Check for times. £17-£19. www.hyperjapan.co.uk. Tobacco Dock, 50 Porters Walk, E1W 2SF. Off map. Station: Wapping.

London Bridge City Summer Festival This 10-week event takes place in the area on the south side of the Thames between London Bridge and Tower Bridge. Large screens show films and live screenings of Royal Opera House performances, Wimbledon tennis and the World Athletics Championships. You can take part in fitness and dance classes and urban gardening, while kids can enjoy a lawn library, workshops and an immersive Mad Hatter’s tea party. There are food and drink stalls too. Free. www.london bridgecity.co.uk. London Bridge City, SE1 2DB. E11. Station: London Bridge.

Pride in London To 9 Jul: Events to celebrate the LGBTQ+ community take place across London, culminating in a parade of 40,000 people through London and live music on a stage in Trafalgar Square (8 Jul). Free. www.prideinlondon.org. T: 0844-344 5428.

Summertime at Southbank Centre To 30 Aug: Kick off your shoes and dig your toes into

a real sandy beach by the river. As well as singalongs, DJs, live bands and choirs, you can enjoy outdoor dances, art and immersive theatre. There are lots of food stalls too. Free. www.southbankcentre.co.uk.

South Bank, SE1. T: 020-7960 4200. C6. Station: Waterloo/Embankment.

32 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2017

SIGHTSEEING

RIVER TRIPS

TOURS & GUIDED WALKS

Circular Cruise Westminster

Big Bus Tours

Circular Cruise Westminster operates a hop-on, hop-off sightseeing service from Westminster Pier.

Boats depart every 40 minutes for Embankment, Festival, Bankside and St Katharine’s Piers (for Tower of London), returning non-stop to Westminster.

11am-6.30pm. Adult single £10, return £14; child single £5, return £7. www.circularcruise.london.

Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7936 2033. F8. Station: Westminster.

Daily sightseeing trips aboard a fleet of open-top double-decker buses. A one-day orientation tour includes three walking tours. Adult £31.50; child £16.20. www.bigbustours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7808 6753.

City Cruises Daily guided sightseeing tours on the River Thames between Westminster, Waterloo, Tower and Greenwich piers. River Red Rover is an all-day hop-on, hop-off sightseeing service. Thames Circular Cruise is a 50-minute sightseeing service from Tower Pier or Bankside Pier to Westminster and back. London Showboat cabaret cruise departs from Westminster Pier and includes a four-course meal with live music Fri-Sat. Other cruises also available. Please check the website for times and prices. www.citycruises.com.

Departure points vary. T: 020-7740 0400.

Big Bus Walking Tours Enjoy a 90-minute historic and royal guided walk. Please check for prices. Daily 11am. www.bigbustours.com. Depart from Big Bus stop six, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7808 6753. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Billingsgate Roman House & Baths Beneath the curious cobbled pathways of the Square Mile lies a rich Roman history that’s survived 2,000 years of building, fires and bombings. Lower Thames Street is home to one of Roman London’s most fascinating remains. The Billingsgate Roman Bathhouse was discovered in 1848, and is now open to the public. Explore this fascinating insight into ancient life in the City on a 45-minute guided tour and discover the remains of the Roman Bathhouse which lie hidden beneath offices. £8 adult; £6 child. Please check for times. www.museumoflondon.org.uk. 101 Lower Thames St, EC3R 6DL. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

London Duck Tours See some of London’s best-loved sights on land before a thrilling splashdown on the River Thames. It’s a great choice if you’re keen for an amphibious adventure. Themed tours include Classic Sightseeing, D-Day Duck, James Bond and a Pirate Treasure Hunt. Adult £27; child £19. www.londonducktours.co.uk. 55 York Rd, SE1 7NJ. T: 020-7928 3132. F8. Station: Waterloo.

London Eye River Cruise Live commentary on a 40-minute sightseeing river cruise. See Big Ben, the Houses of Parliament, St Paul’s Cathedral, Tower Bridge and the Tower of London. Daily 10.45am-7.45pm. Adult £13.15; child £6.58. Discounted joint tickets with the London Eye available. www.londoneye.com.

London Eye Pier, South Bank, SE1 7PB. T: 0871781 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.

MBNA Thames Clippers The fastest and most frequent fleet on the river, with departures from major London piers every 20 minutes. The boats set off from 20 piers across the capital. Oyster cards are valid. Download its free in:flow app. Using GPS tracking to find out your location, it can provide a real-time audio explanation of the sights you see as you pass them. River Roamer hop-on and hop-off adult £16.30; child £8.15. www.thamesclippers.com.

Departure points vary. T: 020-7001 2200.

Thames River Services This hop-on, hop-off service with live audio commentary departs from Westminster Pier (10am-5pm) and St Katharine’s (10.20am-5.20pm) every 30 minutes for Greenwich piers and the Thames Barrier. Please check for prices (35 per cent online discount Mon-Fri). www.thamesriverservices.london. Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 0207930 4097. F8. Station: Westminster.

Thamesjet Try this amazing 50-minute adrenaline-fuelled experience on a speedboat and you’ll enjoy sightseeing, speed and awesome aquabatics all in one. Departs from Westminster Pier.

From 11am. Adult from £39; child from £29. www.thamesjet.com. Various departure points.

T: 020-7740 0400. www.wheretraveler.com 33

SIGHTSEEING Capital Taxi Tours

Evan Evans

A Blue Badge or City of London qualified guide drives you around in a taxi for up to five people.

Choose from London tours by day or night, trips outside the city and themed tours including a Doctor Who tour and a tour for TV Downton Abbey fans.

Prices vary and are per taxi. www.capitaltaxitours. co.uk. Departure points vary. T: 020-8590 3621.

The oldest and largest sightseeing company in London has been accompanying visitors on city tours and out-of-town excursions since 1930. Visit everywhere from Warwick Castle and Stratfordupon-Avon to Stonehenge and Bath, as well as all the London sights. Please check for times and prices. www.evanevanstours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7950 1777.

City of London Guides Walks A variety of themed walks not offered by other companies, focusing on everything from Fleet Street – the home of journalism – to Smithfield Market and City gardens. Free-£12. www.cityof londonguides.com. Departure points vary.

Golden Tours From day excursions to overnight city breaks, the London experts offer quality tour experiences from London to popular locations such as Bath, Stonehenge, Windsor Castle and Leeds Castle.

The company offers an unrivalled range of tours and services. Please check for times and prices. www.goldentours.com. Departure points vary.

T: 020-7630 2039.

Golden Tours Open-Top Bus Tours See the sights aboard an open-top bus. Live guided (Essential Tour) or multilingual audio commentary (all routes) tours let you hop-on and hop-off. One-day, 24-hour and 48-hour tickets. Please check for times and prices. www.goldentours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039.

GoToMidtown Tours More than 100 themed 45-minute free tours around Bloomsbury and Holborn. Most walks do not require pre-booking. 10am & 1pm walks start at the orange information kiosk outside Holborn Tube station. www.bee-midtown.org.

88-94 Kingsway, WC2B 6AA. T: 020-7078 7077.

D7/8. Station: Holborn.

Jack the Ripper Tours Blue Badge Guide Richard Jones of London Walking Tours devised these popular two-hour walks, offering an intriguing look at the infamous Jack the Ripper. Numbers are limited in order to give participants a better experience. Booking essential. Daily 7pm. £10. www.jack-the-rippertour.com. Aldgate East Underground station (outside exit 4). T: 020-8530 8443. Off map.

Station: Aldgate East.

London Chocolate Tours Sample indulgent truffles and ganaches in Mayfair’s finest chocolatiers on this two-hour tour by a former cocoa trader. Along the way you’ll learn how chocolate is grown. Booking essential. Sun 12.30pm. £15 for Where London readers (usually £39). Departs from The Ritz London by Green Park (150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR). www.tourguides.org.uk. T: 020-8526 7755. E6.

Station: Green Park.

The London Helicopter Tour Discover the capital from the unique perspective of a helicopter, with its uninterrupted views of the sights. Departing from London’s only heliport, you can glide above the Thames, taking in iconic landmarks including the Tower of London, St Paul’s Cathedral and The Shard.

Choose from the 12-minute Buzz, 18-minute Sights or 30-minute Max tour – or brave an 18-minute ‘open door’ ride (£375 per person).

Prices start from £150 per seat for a shared tour. www.thelondonhelicopter.com. The POD Building, Bridges Court, SW11 2RE. T: 020-7887 2626.

Off map. Station: Clapham Junction.

London Horror Tours Be spooked by ghost stories and tales of Jack the Ripper, Sweeney Todd and the Krays on tours run by Dr Jack, an actor, entertainer and former guide. Please visit its Facebook page for more information, and call for times and prices.

Departure points vary. T: 07722-247660.

London Literary Pub Crawl See where the giants of the London literary world, including Dylan Thomas and Charles Dickens, ate, drank and worked. This unique tour is artist-led and arranged by the not-for-profit charity The Maverick Theatre Company. Starting in Fitzrovia and ending in Soho, it also includes pubs and bars associated with people in the film industry. Please check for times. Tickets £24. www.londonliterarypubcrawl.com.

12 Fouberts Place, Carnaby St, W1F 7PA. T: 0208090 5082. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

34 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2017

SIGHTSEEING London Walks

Walkit

Westways Carriage Horses

London’s oldest walking tour company offers more than 300 walks. Each take around two hours, departure points vary and there’s no need to book.

As well as Jack the Ripper, Harry Potter and ghost walks, you can join a Secret Village walk around St Paul’s and Clerkenwell. Adult £10; child free with an adult. Mon 2.30pm. www.walks.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7624 3978.

Innovative site aiming to get people out on foot. Enter your starting point and destination (including street, place or postcode), and the site will work out a route map, distance, time, calories burned and carbon saving. www.walkit.com.

Get collected from your hotel and take a tour in a horse-drawn carriage. £475 per carriage. www.west wayscarriagehorses.co.uk. T: 020-8572 3155.

Original London Sightseeing Walk Walks depart daily from the Original London Visitor Centre and include Changing the Guard (departing 10am), Rock ‘n’ Roll (1pm) and Jack the Ripper (3.30pm from Tower Hill Station). Walking tours are free with an Original London Sightseeing Tour, or £9.50 per walk. An Explore Walks Pass, with access to all three walks over a 48-hour period, costs £19. www.theoriginaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

The Original Tour With more than 65 years’ experience, these live and multilingual open-top guided bus tours take you to the city’s best attractions, allowing you to hop-on and hop-off at more than 80 stops. Its original 24-hour tour includes three free walking tours and a Thames River cruise pass. The extended 48-hour tour includes double the time to explore London as well as an extended River Cruise Pass with access to historic Greenwich. Adult £32; child £15. www.theoriginaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, Trafalgar Square, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722.

E7. Station: Charing Cross.

Wembley Tours Go behind the scenes at this famous football stadium and concert venue. The 75-minute tour takes you inside the dressing rooms and through the players’ tunnel. From 10am; please check for dates. Adult £20; child £12. www.wembleystadium. com/wembley-tours. Wembley Stadium, HA9 0WS. T: 0800-169 9933. Off map. Station: Wembley Park.

OUT OF TOWN Ashmolean Museum of Art and Archaeology See archaeological artefacts, Egyptian mummies and Oliver Cromwell’s death mask. Admission free.

Tue-Sun 10am-5pm. www.ashmolean.org. Beaumont St, Oxford, OX1 2PH. T: 01865-278000. Off map.

Station: Paddington to Oxford.

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PlanetPass PlanetPass is an app that allows you to book a private guided tour for up to six people at any time or day. Choose from street art, Jack the Ripper, a Borough Market one for foodies and more. From £9 per person. www.planetpass.com.

Various meeting points. T: 01865-922380.

Royal Albert Hall Tours Take a one-hour Grand Tour of this Victorian concert hall. Most days throughout the year, call for times.

Adult £13; child £6. www.royalalberthall.com.

Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7959 0558.

F4. Station: South Kensington.

Royal Opera House One of the world’s leading opera venues and also home to the Royal Ballet company. Backstage Tour. Tour behind the scenes for an insight into the venue’s history, where you may also see a production in rehearsal. Most days 10.30am, 12.30pm & 2.30pm, but check. Adult £12; child £8.50. www.royaloperahouse.org. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

See London by Night Tour Ride around the West End and City in the evening.

Regular departures from outside The Ritz hotel.

Tours last 90 minutes. Daily 7.30pm, 8pm, 8.30pm, 9.15pm, 9.45pm & 10.15pm. Adult £18; child £10. www.seelondonbynight.com. 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7183 4744. E6. Station: Green Park.

Shakespeare’s Globe (Tours) This reconstruction of Shakespeare’s original Elizabethan Globe Theatre has one of the city’s only thatched roofs, while the Sam Wanamaker Playhouse is a candle-lit performance space. Tours Mon-Sun 9am-5pm. Exhibition Mon-Sun 9am-5pm.

Exhibition and Globe theatre tour adult £16; child £9. www.shakespearesglobe.com. 21 New Globe Walk, Bankside, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7902 1400. E10.

Station: Blackfriars.

TAKE AN INTERACTIVE JOURNEY THROUGH LONDON’S SPOOKY HISTORY

TheLondonBridgeExperience.com

The London Bridge Experience, 2-4 Tooley Street, London Bridge, London SE1 2SY

FREE audio guides available

www.wheretraveler.com 35

SIGHTSEEING Blenheim Palace

ONE OF THE BEST THINGS I’VE EVER DONE TripAdvisor Review

HELICOPTER SIGHTSEEING TOURS Advance booking only at www.thelondonhelicopter.com

Hampton Court Palace Once home to King Henry VIII, this Tudor palace and maze is set in 60 acres of parkland right on the Thames. It has two contrasting architectural styles: Tudor and Baroque. Don’t miss the celebrated maze, the historic ‘real’ tennis court and one of the world’s largest grape vines.

3-9 Jul: Hampton Court Palace Flower Show. Flowers, live music and fireworks (p. 20). Palace, formal gardens and maze daily 10am-6pm. Adult £23; child £11.50. www.hrp.org.uk. Hampton Court, East Molesey, Surrey, KT8 9AU. T: 0844-482 7777.

Off map. Station: Waterloo to Hampton Court.

Leeds Castle

Call 020 7887 2626 or ask your concierge about booking

London looks amazing, beautifully lit up at night

See

See three centuries of treasures in magnificent state rooms at this Baroque palace, the birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill. The palace is set in 2,100 acres of ‘Capability’ Brown parkland and formal gardens. 9 Jul: Pre 50s American Auto Club ‘Rally of the Giants’. 22 Jul: Battle Proms Picnic Concert.

Mass outdoor picnic, concert and fireworks.

Palace daily 10.30am-5.30pm; park daily 9am-6pm; formal gardens daily 10.30am-6pm. Adult £24.90; child £13.90. www.blenheimpalace.com. Woodstock, Oxfordshire, OX20 1PP. T: 01993-810530. Off map.

Paddington to Oxford, then bus S3.

By Night

Fairytale 900-year-old castle with a moat, gardens and parkland. Lose yourself in the spiralling yew maze, and see 100 species of birds in the aviary.

8 Jul: Leeds Castle Classical Concert. The Patriot Girls will return as part of a Battle of Britain-themed musical celebration to perform old favourites.

18-19 Jul: Opera in the Castle: II Matrimonio Segreto.

An 18th-century Italian comic opera by Domenico Cimarosa featuring music influenced by Mozart.

22 Jul: Open Air Theatre: Romeo & Juliet. 28 Jul: Open Air Cinema: Gladiator. Grounds & gardens daily 10am-6pm; castle daily 10.30am-5.30pm. Adult £24.90; child £16.90. www.leeds-castle.com.

Maidstone, Kent, ME17 1PL. T: 01622-765400.

Off map. Station: Victoria to Bearsted.

Osterley Park and House Explore this beautiful country home decorated as it would have been in the 1780s, then stroll in its formal gardens or stop for a snack in the stable tearoom. Regular after-dark tours. House 11am-5pm; garden 10am-5pm. Adult £10.90; child £5.45. www.nationaltrust.org.uk. Jersey Rd, Isleworth, Middlesex, TW7 4RB. T: 020-8232 5050.

Off map. Station: Osterley/Isleworth.

Palace of Holyroodhouse

Departing daily from Green Park bus stop next to the Ritz Hotel

at 19:30, 20:00, 20:30, 21:15, 21:45 and 22:15 Spectacular live guided tours of London by night

Adult - £18 Child - £10

Private tours available for groups day or night

Tel: 0844 504 3285 +44 (0)20 7183 4744

www.seelondonbynight.com 36 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2017

The Queen’s official residence in Scotland stands at the end of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile, against the spectacular backdrop of Arthur’s Seat. Tour highlights include the state apartments and Mary, Queen of Scots’ chamber. Daily 9.30am-6pm.

Adult £12.50; child £7.50. www.royalcollection. org.uk. Canongate, The Royal Mile, Edinburgh, EH8 8DX. T: 0303-123 7306. Off map. Station: Edinburgh Waverley, then a 15-minute walk.

Stonehenge The world’s most famous stone circle and a World Heritage Site, Stonehenge is more than 5,000 years old. With obscure Neolithic origins, it is perfectly aligned with the rising sun at the solstice. English Heritage members get exclusive early-morning tours. The visitor centre has an exhibition, shop and café. Daily 9am-8pm. Adult £16.50; child £9.90. www.english-heritage.org.uk.

Amesbury, Wiltshire, SP4 7DE. T: 0870-333 1181.

Off map. Station: Waterloo to Salisbury, then bus or taxi.

ough Castle Hillsborough Castle

Book online to save

Syon Park This stunning Palladian mansion set in parkland is home to the Duke of Northumberland. Don’t miss the eclectic interior which was designed by the architect Robert Adam in the 1760s, its Grade Ilisted landscape gardens and Great Conservatory.

Please check for times and prices. www.syonpark. co.uk. Syon Park, Brentford, Middlesex, TW8 8JF. T: 020-8560 0882. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Syon Lane.

Waddesdon Manor This Renaissance-style chateau was built in the late-19th century. Magnificent house and wine cellars, plus gardens and aviary. To 29 Oct: Balfour 100. A display to mark the centenary of the Balfour Declaration, in which documents from the Waddesdon archive illustrate the Rothschild family’s role in its conception. Please check for times and prices. www.waddesdon manor.org. Near Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire, HP18 0JH. T: 01296-653226. Off map. Station: Marylebone to Aylesbury.

Warwick Castle Built by William the Conqueror in 1068, this castle is now a family-friendly experience with landscaped gardens designed by ‘Capability’ Brown. Don’t miss Merlin: The Dragon Tower and displays of medieval weaponry, as well as regular falconry displays. The dungeon, with actors, is a highlight. From 22 Jul: War of the Roses Live.

Jousting tournament – it’s 1455 and the House of Lancaster and the House of York clash in battle.

Please check for times. Castle adult £26.40; child £23.40; castle & dungeon adult £31.40; child £28.40. www.warwick-castle.com. Warwick, Warwickshire, CV34 6AH. Off map. Station: Warwick.

ESCAPE

THIS SUMMER

AT HAMPTON COURT PALACE

For a great family day out, lose yourself in one of the world’s oldest mazes then run wild in our Magic Garden.

Watts Gallery Artists’ Village An Arts and Crafts gem in the Surrey Hills, with stunning Victorian paintings and sculptures. Visit The Tea Shop and Grade I-listed Watts Chapel.

To 2 Jul: Emma Bridgewater: Pomegranates. Display from the ceramics designer.

From 2 Jul: Pottery Open Studios. Tue-Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £9.50 (Tue £4.75); child free.

Down Lane, Compton, Surrey, GU3 1DQ. T: 01483810235. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Guildford, then bus or taxi.

Windsor Castle Windsor is the Queen’s weekend home and the world’s oldest inhabited castle. Includes State Apartments furnished with art by Rembrandt, Rubens and Canaletto. The castle was used as a refuge for the royal family during the Luftwaffe bombing campaigns of World War II and survived a fire in 1992. Changing the Guard alternate days 11am except Sun. Daily 9.30am-5.30pm. Adult £20.50; child £12. www.royalcollection.org.uk.

Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 1NJ. T: 0303-123 7304.

Off map. Station: Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Central or Windsor & Eton Riverside.

Woburn Abbey and Gardens Set in a 3,000 acre deer park, this historic house has been home to the earls and dukes of Bedford for nearly 400 years and is currently occupied by the 15th duke and his family. Tour the house to find out more about its family history, art and antiques, then stroll around its Repton-inspired gardens. Daily 11am-5pm.

Abbey, gardens and deer park adult £17; child £8.50. www.woburnabbey.co.uk. Woburn, Bedfordshire, MK17 9WA. T: 01525-290333.

Off map. Station: St Pancras to Flitwick.

A world of beauty Enjoy London’s most celebrated Gardens

Only 30 minutes from central London kew.org/visit Friends of Kew go free Kew Gardens Kew Bridge

www.wheretraveler.com 37

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES | THE GUIDE

Clockwise from this image: Muhammad Ali by Andy Warhol; Sugar Shack by Ernie Barnes; Pittsburgh Memory by Romare Bearden; Did the Bear Sit Under the Tree? by Benny Andrews

A nation speaks There could hardly have been a more groundbreaking era in American history than the Civil Rights movement, and the birth of Black Power. And, of course, society relies on art to reflect and ultimately shape movements of such impact. In Soul of a Nation: Art in the Age of Black Power at Tate Modern (from 12 Jul) we see how this era played such an important role among African-American artists between 1963 and 1983. More than 150 works are on show, with vibrant paintings, prints, photographs and sculptures – many of which are displayed in the UK for the first time.

A major driving force of the art movement was the formation of Spiral, a New York-based artists’ collective set up in 1963 in response to the March on Washington for Jobs and Freedom, among other key events. The group protested against the institutional bias and racism faced by African-American artists, and turned to black-owned galleries to display their work.

38 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2017

Of course the art movement was only one part of the momentous changes taking place at this time – race and identity were also prominent themes in the fields of music, sport and literature. We only have to see the global prominence of figures such as Muhammad Ali, Aretha Franklin and Toni Morrison.

This exhibition reveals how black artists such as Romare Bearden and Norman Lewis, both key figures in the formation of Spire,

responded to such events with their photomontages and abstract paintings.

We see photographs of powerful pieces such as the 1967 Wall of Respect in Chicago, a huge ‘guerrilla-style’ mural on the side of a decaying building that epitomised the sense of collective ownership.

There are works reflecting the Black Feminist movement, by artists such as Los Angelesborn Betye Saar, considered to be highly political, especially with her controversial piece The Liberation of Aunt Jemima.

Statements are made through these works of art. Elizabeth Catlett was the grandchild of freed slaves, and her 1968 mahogany sculpture Black Unity is a simple, powerful figure of a clenched fist. Barkley Hendricks’ 1969 oil painting Icon for My Man Superman has a subtext: Superman, America’s superhero, never saved any black people. Meanwhile, Wadsworth Jarrell’s vivid 1972 print, Revolutionary, is seen as a black woman screaming for freedom.

For full listing, turn to p. 47

MUHAMMAD ALI BY ANDY WARHOL © 2017 THE ANDY WARHOL FOUNDATION FOR VISUAL ARTS, INC/ARTISTS RIGHTS SOCIETY, NEW YORK AND DACS, LONDON; SUGAR SHACK BY ERNIE BARNES © ERNIE BARNES FAMILY TRUST; PITTSBURGH MEMORY BY ROMARE BEARDEN © ROMARE BEARDEN FOUNDATION; DID THE BEAR SIT UNDER THE TREE? BY BENNY ANDREWS © ESTATE OF BENNY ANDREWS/DACS, LONDON/VAGA NY, 2017

Tate Modern celebrates the birth of Black Power in its latest blockbuster exhibition. Emma Levine takes a look at the artists behind it, who include Barkley Hendricks, Betye Saar and Wadsworth Jarrell

FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 88-89

MUSEUMS Arsenal Stadium Tours & Museum Football fans can enjoy a self-guided audio tour for a sneak peek inside the players’ changing rooms and tunnel and the Physio Room, or a Legends Tour led by ex-Arsenal players. Both include a visit to the museum for an overview of the club’s 125-year history. Self-guided tours Mon-Sat 9.30am-6pm; Sun 10am-4pm; Legends Tour from 11am (check for dates). Museum open Mon-Sat 10.30am-6.30pm; Sun 10.30am-4.30pm; check for match-related closures. Self-guided: adult £20; child £10. Legend: adult from £40; child from £20.75. Museum only: adult £10; child £7. www.arsenal.com/tours. Emirates Stadium, Hornsey Rd, N5 1BU. T: 020-7619 5000. Off map.

Station: Arsenal.

Bank of England Museum Explore the story of the Bank of England from its 1694 foundation to the present day, and find lots of activities for kids. The Banknote Gallery displays historic notes. Capturing the City: Photography at the Bank of England. Fascinating record of the bank, its buildings and staff since the Victorian era.

20th Anniversary of the Bank’s Independence. New display from the bank’s archives. Mon-Fri 10am5pm; closed bank hols. Admission free. www.bank ofengland.co.uk/museum. Threadneedle St, EC2R 8AH. T: 020-7601 5545. D10. Station: Bank.

Benjamin Franklin House This charming 18th-century townhouse is the last remaining home of American diplomat, inventor, Founding Father and musician Franklin, with costumed actors. Architectural tours Mon; historical shows Wed-Sun (please check for times).

Shows adult £8; under 16s free. Mon tours adult £6; under 16s free. www.benjaminfranklinhouse.org.

36 Craven St, WC2N 5NF. T: 020-7925 1405. E8.

Station: Charing Cross.

Charles Dickens Museum

Clink Prison Museum

The former home of Victorian novelist Dickens, where he wrote classics including Oliver Twist.

Decorated in early Victorian style as it might have been when he lived here, it displays his personal possessions. Themed Dickensian walks Wed 11.30am. To 29 Oct: Restless Shadow: Dickens the Campaigner. Exploring the lesser-known side to the author, that of a campaigner for social justice. Tue-Sun 10am-5pm. Adult £9; child £4. www.dickensmuseum.com. 48 Doughty St, WC1N 2LX. T: 020-7405 2127. C8. Station: Russell Square.

A former prison dating back to 1144, where you can visit an exhibition about London’s penal past and see instruments of torture. It’s said to be haunted by the ghosts of former inmates; check for Haunted Happenings events. Daily 10am-9pm. Adult £7.50; child £5.50. www.clink. co.uk. 1 Clink St, SE1 9DG. T: 020-7403 0900.

E10. Station: London Bridge.

The Design Museum

Go on an interactive tour of Chelsea’s ground Stamford Bridge, home of the 2017 Premier League champions. Also monthly tours led by past stars of the game (from £70). Tours daily, every 30 minutes 10am-3pm. Museum open daily 9.30am-5pm.

Please check for occasional closures. Adult £22 (museum only £11); child £15 (£9). www.chelseafc. com/tours. Stamford Bridge, SW6 1HS. T: 0871984 1955. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.

One of the world’s leading museums of contemporary design and architecture. Designer Maker User is a free permanent display of the museum’s contemporary collection. To 15 Oct: California. Documenting the journey from 1960s counterculture to Silicon Valley’s tech world.

To 24 Sep: Hella Jongerius: Breathing Colour.

Installation-based exhibition. Daily 10am-6pm.

Fri 28 Jul 10am-8pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.designmuseum.org.

224-238 Kensington High St, W8 6AG. T: 020-3862 5900. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

Churchill War Rooms

The Fan Museum

The fortified basement where Sir Winston Churchill worked during World War II. Churchill’s war cabinet met here 115 times, most often during the Blitz and the later German V-weapon offensive. Explore the underground bunker and discover what life was like for the prime minister in the Cabinet War Rooms during the war. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £17.25; child (five-15) £8.60. www.iwm.org.uk.

Clive Steps, King Charles St, SW1A 2AQ. T: 0207930 6961. F7. Station: Westminster.

Unusual museum dedicated to the art of the fan with examples from the 12th century right up to the present day. To 16 Sep: All Creatures Great & Small. See fans decorated with a variety of animals including an early 18th-century Dutch fan painted with pheasants, parrots and turkeys.

Tue-Sat 11am-5pm; Sun noon-5pm. Adult £4; child (seven-16) £3. www.thefanmuseum.org.uk.

12 Crooms Hill, SE10 8ER. T: 020-8305 1441. Off map.

Station: Cutty Sark.

Chelsea FC Stadium Museum & Tours

Top Pick

The British Museum

LEGO SUPERMAN © JANE HOBSON

This world-famous museum boasts an unrivalled collection of antiquities, as well as the Queen Elizabeth II Great Court. There is a huge number of permanent displays and treasures from the Roman Empire, Ancient Egypt, Medieval Europe, Ancient Iran and India. Regular talks, evening events and performances. To 27 Aug: Places of the Mind: British Watercolour Landscapes 1850-1950.

Celebrating the work of British landscape artists during the 100 years following the death of JMW Turner. To 13 Aug: Hokusai: Beyond the Great Wave. See iconic prints from the final 30 years of Hokusai’s career. To 15 Oct: Desire, Love, Identity: Exploring LGBTQ+ Histories. Objects from around the world to depict LGBTQ+ culture and history.

Sat-Thur 10am-5.30pm; Fri 10am-8.30pm.

Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.britishmuseum.org. Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8299. D7/8. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Russell Square.

The Cartoon Museum Museum dedicated to British cartoons, caricature and comic art from the 18th century to today.

To 24 Jul: The Inking Woman. An exhibition of British female cartoon and comic artists. Tue-Sun & bank hols 10.30am-5.30pm.

Adult £7; child free. www.cartoonmuseum.org.

35 Little Russell St, WC1A 2HH. T: 020-7580 8155.

D8. Station: Holborn.

Heroic creations If you spent your childhood playing with LEGO, you will be astounded by The Art of the Brick: DC Super Heroes, the world’s largest LEGO display, which sees a gallery turned into a superhero world. You can meet iconic figures including Batman, Superman and Wonder Woman, plus arch-villains such as the Joker, among more than 120 other original figures. All these have been created by New York-based artist Nathan Sawaya, who quit his job as a Hollywood attorney to follow his childhood dream.

Doon St Car Park, SE1 9PP. www.aotbdc.co.uk. T: 0333-247 0620. E9.

Station: Waterloo www.wheretraveler.com 39

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

After an immense redevelopment, costing £24m and taking three years, the National Army Museum’s (p. 42) doors have reopened. Far from simply glorifying war, the museum places the soldier at the heart of the displays. It questions ideas of the British Army’s defence and security, starting with a history of the army through its campaigns. The Battle Gallery moves from the horse and musket to modern warfare weapons such as drones, while the Society Gallery analyses the army’s impact on our customs, values and even voting patterns. Appropriately, its huge new temporary exhibition space opens with War Paint, Brushes with Conflict (to 19 Nov), a display that explores the reasons why artists and soldiers paint scenes of conflict.

Fashion and Textile Museum

The Guards Museum

Highlighting contemporary fashion, textiles and jewellery from 1947 to the present day. To 1 Oct: The World of Anna Sui. Exhibition looking at the American designer and her rock ‘n’ roll style and influence. Tue-Sat 11am-6pm; Thur 11am-8pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £9; child (under 12s) free. www.ftmlondon.org. 83 Bermondsey St, SE1 3XF. T: 020-7407 8664. F11. Station: London Bridge.

Discover the fascinating history, stories and regimental heritage of the five regiments of the Foot Guards: the Grenadier, Coldstream, Scots, Irish and Welsh Guards, which today watch over the Royal Palaces. It provides a great insight into the Changing the Guard ceremony. Foot Guards Uniforms Through the Centuries. Long-term exhibition about uniforms from 1656 to 1980 displayed, in miniature form. Daily 10am-4pm.

Adult £6; child free. www.theguardsmuseum.com.

Wellington Barracks, Birdcage Walk, SW1E 6HQ. T: 020-7414 3271. D5. Station: Westminster.

Florence Nightingale Museum Located in St Thomas’ Hospital, learn about the work of the pioneering 19th-century British nurse and health reformer, widely known as ‘The Lady with the Lamp’. It also tells the story of Jamaicanborn nurse Mary Seacole, who nursed injured soldiers during the Crimean War. Paintings honour the inspirational work of nurses who helped in war-ravaged France. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £7.50; child £3.80. www.florence-nightingale.co.uk.

2 Lambeth Palace Rd, SE1 7EW. T: 020-7620 0374.

F8. Station: Waterloo/Westminster.

The Foundling Museum Britain’s original home for abandoned children was founded in 1739 by Thomas Coram, William Hogarth and George Frideric Handel. Please check for regular exhibitions and events. Tue-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £8.25; child free. www.foundlingmuseum.org.uk. 40 Brunswick Square, WC1N 1AZ. T: 020-7841 3600. C8. Station: Russell Square.

Geffrye Museum Historic 18th-century almshouses with rooms recreating English interiors from 1600 to the present day. Almshouse Tours allow a rare glimpse into the lives of London’s poor and elderly in former times (please check for dates and times).

Tour adult £4; under 16 free. To 7 Jan 2018: Home Thoughts: Stories of Living in London. Personal stories of a cross-section of Londoners. Tue-Sun & bank hols 10am-5pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.geffrye-museum.org.uk.

136 Kingsland Rd, E2 8EA. T: 020-7739 9893.

Off map. Station: Hoxton.

40 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2017

Horniman Museum & Gardens Collection based upon the adventurous Victorian tea trader, Frederick John Horniman, including an aquarium and huge selection of musical instruments, plus gardens. To 29 Oct: The Robot Zoo. Amazing animals are recreated in robot form to reveal their inner workings.

To 26 Nov: Pani. Thought-provoking display about the relationship between people and water across South Asia. Daily 10am-5.30pm.

Admission free; charges for aquarium and special exhibitions. www.horniman.ac.uk. 100 London Rd, SE23 3PQ. T: 020-8699 1872. Off map.

Station: Forest Hill.

House of Illustration The UK’s only public gallery dedicated solely to illustration, founded by Sir Quentin Blake.

To 1 Oct: Quentin Blake: The Life of Birds. Display showing Blake’s expressive drawings for the original book. To 10 Sep: Anime Architecture: Backgrounds of Japan.. The UK’s first-ever exhibition of handmade illustrations of classic sci-fi anime films. Adult £7.50; child £4. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. www.house ofillustration.org.uk. 2 Granary Square, N1C 4BH. T: 020-3696 2020. Off map.

Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

Stir your senses at Somerset House’s Perfume exhibition (p. 44)

A living museum that goes behind the scenes of ceremonial duties and roles of the Household Cavalry Regiments. Troopers with their horses work in the original 18th-century stables, with stunning rare treasures on display. Changing the Queen’s Life Guard on Horse Guards Parade Mon-Sat 11am; Sun 10am. Museum daily 10am6pm. Please check for occasional closures. Adult £7; child £5. www.householdcavalrymuseum.co.uk.

Horse Guards, Whitehall, SW1A 2AX. T: 020-7930 3070. E7/8. Station: Westminster/Embankment.

Imperial War Museum See huge displays of conflicts, particularly those that involve Britain and the Commonwealth, plus the powerful Holocaust Exhibition and huge collection in the First World War Galleries.

To 28 Aug: People Power: Fighting for Peace.

Explore how peace movements have influenced perceptions of war and conflict. To 28 Aug: Edmund Clark: War of Terror. Works by the artist-photographer explore reactions to the ‘Global War on Terror’. Daily 10am-6pm.

Admission free; charges for some special exhibitions. www.iwm.org.uk. Lambeth Rd, SE1 6HZ. T: 020-7416 5000. E5. Station: Lambeth North/Waterloo.

Jewish Museum Documenting Jewish history and culture in the UK from 1066 to today, including a lifelike representation of the Jewish East End immigrant quarter. The Holocaust Gallery provides a harrowing collection of photographs and accounts.

To 24 Sep: Amy Winehouse: A Family Portrait. Discover the woman behind the music in this intimate and moving exhibition about a much-loved singer (p. 44). To 7 Sep: Sephardi Voice: Jews from North Africa, the Middle East and Iran. Audio-visual exhibition featuring testimonies of people from these communities. Sat-Thur 10am-5pm; Fri 10am-2pm. Adult £7.50; child £3.50. www.jewishmuseum.org.uk. Raymond Burton House, 129-131 Albert St, NW1 7NB. T: 020-7284 7384. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

Leighton House Museum Closed to 6 Jul. The restored former home of Frederic, Lord Leighton is now a museum of his life and work. Permanent collections include paintings, drawings and sculptures, plus the Arab Hall adorned with hundreds of tiles from the Middle East.

From 7 Jul: Alma-Tadema: At Home in Antiquity.

Exhibition of works by the Dutch painter Lawrence Alma-Tadema, who was fascinated with the representation of domestic life in antiquity Wed-Mon 10am-5.30pm. Adult £9; child (12-17) £7. www.rbkc.gov.uk.

12 Holland Park, W14 8LZ. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: Kensington Olympia.

BOTTLE TOWER © GIVAUDAN; CAPTAIN REGINALD JAMES YOUNG WINNING THE MILITARY CROSS DURING THE BATTLE OF THE SOMME, STANLEY LLEWELLYN WOOD, C.1916, OIL ON BOARD © NATIONAL ARMY MUSEUM

Soldiering on

Household Cavalry Museum

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES National Army Museum Learn about the history of the British army (p. 40).

To 19 Nov: War Paint: Brushes with Conflict. Explore why artists and soldiers have painted scenes of conflict. Daily 10am-5.30pm; open until 8pm on first Wed of each month. Admission free. www.nam.ac.uk. Royal Hospital Rd, SW3 4HT. T: 020-7730 0717. Off map. Station: Sloane Square.

National Maritime Museum The world’s largest maritime museum, spread over several sites, was originally part of a 19th-century school for seafarers’ children. Includes a vast collection of maps, artwork and memorabilia including the Maritime Galleries, plus The Great Map, a huge interactive world map revealing stories from maritime history. Check for family fun days. To 7 Jan 2018: Death in the Ice. Exploring the mystery of Sir John Franklin, whose ships were lost at sea while on an expedition to discover the NorthWest Passage in 1845. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free; charges for events and exhibitions. www.rmg. co.uk. Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422.

Off map. Station: Greenwich/Cutty Sark.

Natural History Museum

Setting the scene The Anglo-American painter John Singer Sargent was best known as a portrait artist of Edwardian high society. However, the pieces he painted while travelling to Europe were his real passion, as seen in Sargent: The Watercolours at Dulwich Picture Gallery (to 8 Oct; p. 45). This exhibition, at England’s oldest gallery, shows off these early 20th-century works; he left England each summer and autumn to escape the constraints of portraiture and to go abroad to ‘paint what he wanted to paint’, as his grand-nephew Richard Ormond describes. We see scenes of Sargent’s inspiration, from streams and glaciers in the Alps to Baroque architecture in Venice and landscapes.

Museum of London

Bond in Motion is the largest official exhibition of James Bond vehicles that feature in the film series, including the Aston Martin DB5 and Goldfinger’s Rolls-Royce. Sun-Fri 10am-6pm; Sat 10am-7pm.

Adult £14.50; child £9.50. www.londonfilm museum.com. 45 Wellington St, WC2E 7BN. T: 020-7202 7042. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

The world’s largest urban history museum boasts nine galleries, including Roman and Medieval, which transport you through the capital’s tumultuous history to the present day with thousands of exhibits.

Don’t miss The London 2012 Cauldron, telling the story of the intricately crafted cauldron lit to mark the start of the Olympic Games. To 15 Oct: Here and Now: London Portraits by Niall McDiarmid. Striking outdoor display of vivid portraits captured on the street by the photographer. Check for regular family events. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www. museumoflondon.org.uk. 150 London Wall, EC2Y 5HN. T: 020-7001 9844. D10. Station: Barbican.

Located in the Grade II-listed Flower Market, the museum displays the story of London’s transport system. Highlights include iconic red buses, the world’s first Underground steam train and a train carriage dating back to the 1890s. To 3 Sep: Sounds of the City. The best 100 entries from the Prize for Illustration, looking at the sounds in otherwise quiet spaces in the UK’s cities. Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 11am-6pm. Adult £17.50; child (under 18) free. www.ltmuseum.co.uk. Covent Garden Piazza, WC2E 7BB. T: 020-7379 6344. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Museum of Brands, Packaging & Advertising Fascinating insight into how everyday lives have changed over the past 200 years through the evolution of iconic consumer brands. Exhibits include toys, magazines, newspapers, technology, travel, fashion and design. Tue-Sat & bank hols 10am-6pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £9; child (seven-16) £5. www.museumofbrands.com.

111-117 Lancaster Rd, W11 1QT. T: 020-7243 9611.

Off map. Station: Ladbroke Grove.

42 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2017

Museum of London Docklands

This 17th-century house, an architectural masterpiece by Inigo Jones, boasts 22 lavish rooms displaying a stunning fine art collection spanning 400 years, including works by Great Masters such as Gainsborough and Hogarth.

Don’t miss the spiral Tulip Stairs, location of ghost sightings. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.rmg.co.uk/queens-house. Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark.

Royal Air Force Museum

National aviation museum focusing on the Royal Air Force, through its people and collections, with more than 100 outstanding aircraft on show, plus photographs and films. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free.

The Museum of London www.rafmuseum.org.uk. Grahame originally opened in Park Way, NW9 5LL. T: 020-8205 2266.

1912 in Kensington Off map. Station: Colindale.

Palace, near

The intriguing history of the meandering River Thames, from Hyde Park its time as a Roman thoroughfare Science Museum to the regeneration of the Docklands.

A huge museum dedicated to science, Displays including London, Sugar & Slavery, technology and medical achievements, plus an charting the history of the transatlantic slave IMAX 3D cinema. Permanent galleries include trade and its links to the city. To 3 Sep: Tunnel: Making the Modern World, with Stevenson’s Rocket The Archaeology of Crossrail. See the range of and the Apollo 10 command module. Wonderlab: archaeological objects unearthed by Crossrail, The Statoil Gallery is an interactive gallery exploring Europe’s largest infrastructure project. Daily science and mathematics. To 3 Sep: Robots.

10am-6pm. Admission free, charges for special Explore the 500-year old story of humanoid exhibitions. www.museumoflondon.org.uk. robots. www.sciencemuseum.org.uk. Exhibition Rd, SW7 2DD. T: 0333-241 4000. F4. Station: T: 020-7001 9844. Off map. Station: Canary South Kensington.

Wharf/West India Quay.

A TURKISH WOMAN BY A STREAM BY JOHN SINGER SARGENT © VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM, LONDON

Queen’s House

London Film Museum

London Transport Museum

Astounding family-friendly collections, with exhibits ranging from the Images of Nature gallery to dinosaur skeletons and fossils.

To 10 Sep: Wildlife Photographer of the Year.

Annual exhibition illustrating the abundance and vulnerability of life on our planet. To 17 Sep: Sensational Butterflies. Escape into the tropical butterfly house in the museum grounds.

From 14 Jul: Whales: Beneath the Surface.

Major exhibition exploring these huge animals with skeletons, flippers and skulls, celebrating the new exhibit of the blue whale in the Hintze Hall. Daily 10am-5.50pm, closed 13 Jul. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nhm.ac.uk.

Cromwell Rd, SW7 5BD. T: 020-7942 5000. F4.

Station: South Kensington.

Fall in love with Wimbledon Want to feel the weight of the Championships trophies? Interested in watching an interactive ghost of John McEnroe? Keen to cast your eyes over Andy Murray’s title-winning whites?

Then step inside the multi-dimensional journey that is Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum. With complimentary audio guides in 10 languages, learn about the history of the sport, see the Championship trophies, and the amazing new Virtual Reality experience. You may also take the behind the scenes tour of the grounds and explore the home of tennis, including Centre Court, for a truly inspirational visit.

Supported by

New Virtual Reality experience Open Daily: 10:00am until 5:00pm Nearest Underground: Southfields The Museum Building, The All England Lawn Tennis & Croquet Club, Church Road, Wimbledon, London SW19 5AE

T: 020 8946 6131 | wimbledon.com/museum

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

This famous address on Baker Street is dedicated to the fictional detective, where he lived with his friend and colleague Dr Watson from 1881 to 1904. The house has been kept exactly as described in the author Sir Arthur Conan Doyle’s thrilling stories. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £15; child (under 16) £10. www.sherlock-holmes.co.uk.

221b Baker St, NW1 6XE. T: 020-7224 3688. A3.

Station: Baker Street.

Sir John Soane’s Museum The architect Soane’s former home, a Regency townhouse, was left to the nation in 1837 as a public museum. It now houses a gem of a collection including Hogarth satirical artworks, and Soane’s architectural drawings and antiquities from around the world. To 23 Sep: Marc Quinn: Drawn from Life. Twelve new sculptures from the British artist. Museum tours daily; times vary.

Tue-Sat 10am-5pm, closed bank hols. Candlelight opening 4 Jul, 6pm-9pm. Admission free. www.soane.org. 13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields, WC2A 3BP. T: 020-7405 2107. D8. Station: Holborn.

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AT HOME IN ANTIQUITY LEIGHTON HOUSE MUSEUM 7 JULY – 29 OCTOBER 2017

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Somerset House This neo-classical 18th-century building on the Thames houses the famous Courtauld Gallery, Embankment Galleries, cafés and restaurants.

To 17 Sep: Perfume. Major exhibition that journeys through contemporary scent, through 10 perfumes and their creators (p. 40). Galleries daily 10am6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.somersethouse.org.uk. Strand, WC2R 1LA. T: 020-7845 4600. E8. Temple.

Twinings Museum The flagship store of Twinings since 1706, with a tiny exhibition reflecting the company’s 300-year history. See vintage teapots and caddies, plus the original Royal warrant signed by Queen Victoria in 1837 (p. 65). Mon-Fri 9.30am-7.30pm; Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 11am-6pm. Admission free. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.

V&A Museum of Childhood Charming national collection of childhood objects dating back to the 16th century.

From 22 Jul: Michael Morpurgo: A Lifetime in Stories. The life and works of one of Britain’s best-loved writers, displaying his manuscripts, photographs and a life-size puppet of Joey from the stage musical War Horse (p. 90). To 21 Jan 2018: Searching for Ghosts. A glimpse into the experience of several generations of east Londoners. Daily 10am-5.45pm. Admission free. www.vam. ac.uk/moc. Cambridge Heath Rd, E2 9PA. T: 020-8983 5200. Off map. Station: Bethnal Green.

Victoria and Albert Museum The V&A’s outstanding collection of fine and applied arts spans 3,000 years and includes fashion, paintings, photographs and ceramics from around the world.

To 1 Oct: Pink Floyd: Their Mortal Remains. Spectacular audio-visual journey through the music of the prog rock band’s music, design and staging, from the 1960s to the present day. To 18 Feb 2018:

FREE ENTRY

MUSEUMOFLONDON.ORG.UK

See Amy Winehouse’s guitar at the Jewish Museum (p. 40)

#LOOKAGAIN

44 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2017 14048_57x124.indd 1

17/03/2014 10:54

Balenciago: Shaping Fashion. Exhibition about the revered designer Cristóbal Balenciaga and his unique vision of female beauty and use of textiles. Daily 10am-5.45pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.vam.ac.uk.

Cromwell Rd, SW7 2RL. T: 020-7942 2000. F4/5.

Station: South Kensington.

Viktor Wynd Museum of Curiosities A former shop turned tiny museum and bar-café, displaying weird and wonderful items in the cabinets downstairs. Expect to see quirky artwork, ephemera, taxidermy and erotica – some explicit – plus unusual events and courses. Wed-Sun noon-10.30pm. Admission £5. www.thelasttuesday society.org. 1 Mare St, E8 4RP. T: 020-7998 3617.

Off map. Station: Bethnal Green.

The Wallace Collection The former Wallace family home displays their beautiful collection of Rococo art, sculpture, furniture and suits of armour. Paintings include Fragonard’s 18th-century masterpiece The Swing, plus Frank Hals’ iconic Laughing Cavalier.

To 30 Jul: Gilded Interiors: French Masterpieces of Gilt Bronze. See outstanding examples from the late-18th century. Free tours on selected dates. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.wallacecollection.org. Hertford House, Manchester Square, W1U 3BN. T: 020-7563 9500.

D6. Station: Bond Street.

Wellcome Collection Wellcome Trust’s public venue housing hundreds of fascinating artefacts relating to health and the body. Including permanent exhibitions Medicine Now and Medicine Man, the personal collection of Sir Henry Wellcome with eye-popping antique exhibits of medical equipment. Regular talks and tours. To 8 Oct: A Museum of Modern Nature.

Objects borrowed from members of the public to depict their individual relationships with nature.

Among the contributors to this exhibition are a park manager, shaman, dairy farmer and plant scientist. Tue-Wed & Fri-Sat 10am-6pm; Thur 10am-10pm; Sun 11am-6pm. Admission free. www.wellcomecollection.org. 183 Euston Rd, NW1 2BE. T: 020-7611 2222. C7. Station: Euston.

Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum & Tours At the venue of the famous championships, the displays range from old trophies and rackets to tennis kits from current champions, plus touch screens to watch past greats in action.

Look out for the ‘ghost’ of John McEnroe, and the virtual reality 360-degree experience narrated

by Tim Henman. To 1 Sep: On Air: Wimbledon and the BBC 1927-2017 1927-2017. A fascinating exhibition to celebrate BBC’s radio and TV live broadcasting of Championships for 90 years, featuring old television cameras, posters and programmes on display. Tours of the grounds include Centre Court. No tours during the Championships (3-17 Jul) when admission to museum is by ticket holders only. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Museum adult £13; child £8. Museum & tour adult £25; child £15. One child goes free with every full-price adult. www.wimbledon.com/museum.

All England Lawn Tennis Club, Church Rd, SW19 5AE. T: 0208946 6131. Off map. Station: Southfields then bus 493 or a 12-minute walk.

GUITAR COURTESY OF JEWISH MUSEUM

Sherlock Holmes Museum

Visit London and see the world!

Discover the treasures of world cultures, from Egyptian mummies and ancient Greek sculpture to African art and Chinese porcelain.

GALLERIES Barbican Art Gallery Multi-arts venue with two exhibition spaces: the Barbican Art Gallery and The Curve. To 1 Sep: Into the Unknown – A Journey Through Science Fiction.

An exhibition of art, design, film and literature, from the 19th century to today, including sci-fi works relating to Jules Verne and Margaret Atwood (Curve Gallery). Charges for special exhibitions. Please check for times and prices. www.barbican.org.uk. Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 4141. D10. Station: Barbican.

Ben Uri Gallery The London Jewish Museum of Art houses more than 1,000 works, plus regular talks and events. To 17 Sep: Polish Exhibition: A Century of Polish Artists in Britain. Highlighting 20th and 21st-century works of Polish migrants. Mon-Fri 10am-5.30pm; Sat & Sun 11am-5pm. Admission free. www.benuri.org.uk. 108a Boundary Rd, off Abbey Rd, NW8 0RH. T: 020-7604 3991. Off map.

Station: Kilburn High Road.

The Museum’s audio guide helps you make the most of your visit. Find out more about the Museum’s most popular objects or take a themed tour – it’s up to you. The audio guide is available in 10 languages. britishmuseum.org

The Courtauld Gallery Important European art collection, plus temporary exhibitions, housed in Somerset House. To 24 Sep: Bloomsbury Art & Design. A wide-ranging selection of early 20th-century creative pieces by the Bloomsbury Group, including paintings, collages, drawings, watercolours, designs and decorative arts from the Omega Workshops. Daily 10am-6pm.

Adult £7; child free. www.courtauld.ac.uk. Somerset House, Strand, WC2R 0RN. T: 020-7848 2526. E8.

Station: Embankment.

Dulwich Picture Gallery England’s first public art gallery, founded in 1811, holds one of the finest collections of Old Masters in the UK. The building was designed by the renowned 19th-century architect Sir John Soane. To 8 Oct: Sargent: The Watercolours.

Beautiful scenes of Europe captured by the artist John Singer Sargent (p. 42). Tue-Fri 10am5pm, Sat-Sun 11am-5pm; closed bank hols. Adult £7; child free; charges for special exhibitions. www.dulwichpicturegallery.org.uk. Gallery Rd, SE21 7AD. T: 020-8693 5254. Off map. Station: West Dulwich/North Dulwich.

Estorick Collection

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Charming bijou gallery in a Grade II-listed Georgian building, specialising in modern Italian art.

From 5 Jul: Franco Grignani: Art as Design.

Profiling the graphic designer who used swirling designs, influenced by Op art. Wed-Sat 11am6pm; Sun noon-5pm. Adult £6.50; child free. www.estorickcollection.com. 39a Canonbury Square, N1 2AN. T: 020-7704 9522. Off map.

Station: Highbury & Islington.

Guildhall Art Gallery See paintings collected by the City of London since the 17th century, including historic events and royalty. It also houses the Roman Amphitheatre, discovered in 1988 (free entry with gallery ticket).

The Heritage Gallery displays treasures including the Great Parchment Book (to 10 Aug).

To 16 Jul: Echoes Across the Century.

Explore the personal stories of those who fought in World War I, plus those left behind. Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun noon-4pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.cityoflondon. gov.uk. Guildhall Yard, off Gresham St, EC2V 5AE. T: 020-7332 3700. D10. Station: St Paul’s/Bank.

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES ICA (Institute of Contemporary Arts)

National Portrait Gallery

The Photographers’ Gallery

Changing exhibitions of art and installations, plus a café/bar, bookshop and arthouse cinema.

To 2 Jul: Stuart Middleton: Beat.

Site-specific installation and new video work.

To 2 Jul: Frans Masereel: The City.

Woodcut prints by the Expressionist artist.

Tue-Wed & Fri-Sun 11am-6pm; Thur 11am-9pm.

Adult £1; child free. www.ica.org.uk. The Mall, SW1Y 5AH. T: 020-7930 3647. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Charing Cross.

One of the nation’s most prominent galleries, which is more than 150 years old, provides a panorama of the British people in paintings, drawings and photographs. To 24 Sep: BP Portrait Award. See the selected portrait paintings from the competition.

From 13 Jul: The Encounter: Drawings from Leonardo to Rembrandt. Exploring the creative relationship between the artists and their sitters.

Sat-Wed 10am-6pm; Thur & Fri 10am-9pm (regular Late Shift special events). Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.npg.org.uk. St Martin’s Place, WC2H 0HE. T: 020-7312 2463. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

London’s largest gallery devoted to photography, with several temporary exhibitions. To 8 Oct: Gregory Crewdson – Cathedral of the Pines. Powerful scenic works from the US photographer. Mon-Sat 10am6pm; Thur 10am-8pm; Sun 11am-6pm. Admission free before noon, then £4. www.thephotographers gallery.org.uk. 16-18 Ramillies St, W1F 7LW. T: 0207087 9300. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Kings Place Arts venue with three galleries: Pangolin London, displaying contemporary sculpture; Piano Nobile Kings Place with modern and contemporary international art, and the Guardian Gallery with aspects of news and journalism. www.kingsplace. co.uk. 90 York Way, N1 9AG. T: 020-7520 1490.

C7. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

The National Gallery One of the world’s greatest galleries, with a huge permanent collection of works by masters from Monet to da Vinci. Regular guided tours, talks and workshops. To 28 Aug: Chris Ofili: Weaving Magic.

The Turner Prize-winner unveils a new tapestry, handwoven by Dovecot Tapestry Studio. To 8 Oct: Giovanni da Rimini – An Early 14th-century Masterpiece Unveiled. Awe-inspiring Renaissance paintings.

Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.national gallery.org.uk. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7747 2885. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

The Queen’s Gallery

More than 500 years of treasures from the Royal Collection displayed at Buckingham Palace, including paintings, furniture, ceramics, silver, jewellery and textiles.

National Theatre To 12 Nov: Canaletto & the Art of Venice.

Exhibitions in the world-famous A wonderful selection of paintings The Queen’s Gallery is drama venue. Open Mon-Sat depicting 18th-century Venice, a public art gallery in 9.30am-11pm; Sun noon-6pm the western side of with Canaletto’s greatest works Buckingham (on days when performances are plus those of his contemporaries.

Palace taking place). Admission free.

Daily 10am-5.30pm. Adult £11; www.nationaltheatre.org.uk. Lyttelton child (five-16) £5.50. www.royalcollection.

Exhibition Space, South Bank, SE1 9PX. org.uk. Buckingham Palace, SW1A 1AA. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.

T: 0303-123 7301. F7. Station: Green Park/ Hyde Park Corner.

Newport Street Gallery

Damien Hirst’s huge new gallery exhibits work from his extensive art collection. To 20 Aug: Ashley Bickerton – Ornamental Hysteria. Varied mixed-media works by the contemporary artist.

Tue-Sun 10am-6pm; Sat 10am-10pm. Admission free. www.newportstreetgallery.com. Newport St, SE11 6AJ. T: 020-3141 9320. G8. Station: Vauxhall/Lambeth North.

Rivington Place Cutting-edge art gallery and cultural space, dedicated to ethnically diverse visual arts from the organisations Iniva and Autograph ABP. Tue-Fri 11am-6pm; Thur 11am-9pm; Sat noon6pm. Admission free. www.rivingtonplace.org.

Rivington St, EC2A 3BA. T: 020-7749 1240. C11.

Station: Old Street.

Book now

Discover the art of today 13 June – 20 August Free entry for Friends of the RA

46 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2017

WHERE LONDON IN ASSOCIATION WITH CATH KIDSTON

The Home of Modern Vintage

No visit to London would be complete without a trip to Cath Kidston, the Home of Modern Vintage. Cath Kidston opened her first shop in West London in 1993. She was inspired by taking vintage prints and using them in a fresh, surprising and modern way, and almost 25 years later the brand is known for its quirky, contemporary take on traditional British style and cheerful, practical products. These include bags and accessories, homewares, fashion and a kids collection. It’s the perfect place to pick up unique, London-inspired souvenirs and gifts for yourself, your family and loved ones back home. March home with a little bit of London! 如果未能光临一次现代复古之家Cath Kidston，那么任 何伦敦之旅都不算是完整的。1993年，Cath Kidston在 伦敦西区开设了她的第一家店。她受到了启发，用全新 且令人惊奇的现代方式来运用复古印花，在近乎25年之 后，该品牌已经因为采取古灵精怪的现代方式应用传统英 式风格，以及其明快实用的产品而知名。产品包括箱包、 配饰、家居用品、时装和儿童系列。这里是为您自己、家 人以及挚爱之人挑选特别的伦敦纪念品和礼物的完美场 所。为您的家里增添一抹伦敦的感觉！

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WHERE LONDON IN ASSOCIATION WITH CATH KIDSTON

GET CARRIED AWAY

Scattered Woodstock charcoal duffle backpack, £55

Treat yourself to new luggage from Cath Kidston’s perfectly co-ordinated travel collection, a premium leather bag or a handy, holiday-friendly piece like a cosy shawl, on-trend backpack or even a brolly and raincoat to beat the British showers! Cath Kidston’s instantly recognisable floral and spot prints are sure to brighten up your day – find them instore on fashion and many more bags and accessories besides.

旅行配件

从Cath Kidston完美和谐的旅行系列中为您自己挑选一 款新旅行箱、一个高级真皮手包、或是一件便携假日单 品，如一条舒适的披肩、一个时尚背包、甚至是一件可 以应对英国阵雨的雨衣！Cath Kidston容易识别的花卉 和圆点图案一定会为您的一天添光加彩。请到店探索时 尚及更多箱包和配饰。

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CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Peony Blossom deep blue frame backpack, £55; Woodstock Ditsy plaster pink leather Henshall zip bag, £95; Scattered Anemone navy travel holdall, £75; Scattered Anemone navy four wheel cabin bag, £120; London Toile mid blue shawl, £39; Button Spot periwinkle long raincoat with bag, £40; London Toile mid blue Tiny umbrella, £24

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WHERE LONDON IN ASSOCIATION WITH CATH KIDSTON

CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: London Streets sleeveless dress, £24; Dragon blue backpack, £27; Guards cream sleepsuit and hat gift set, £18; London Streets ivory high top trainers, £20; Guards cream teddy, £12; London Streets ivory pyjamas, £18

CATH KIDS CLUB

Little ones are well looked after with the dedicated Cath Kids collection, which features everything from fun fashion to brilliant bags for going back to school – all in Cath Kidston’s signature playful prints and for ages 0+.

儿童俱乐部

小不点们在搭配Cath Kids系列之后都很好看，这一 系列的特色包括趣味时尚和假期后返校时的亮眼书 包，这些产品均搭配了Cath Kidston的标志性趣味 印花，适合刚出生以及更大年龄的孩子。

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Kids bags and shoes, from £15

WHERE LONDON IN ASSOCIATION WITH CATH KIDSTON

London Toile mid blue sleeveless sateen dress, £80; Inky Spot navy reversible cross body bag, £38

COME AND SAY HELLO! You’ll find the complete Cath Kidston collection on sale at the London flagship store. The brand’s largest store is centrally located on Piccadilly, next door to Fortnum & Mason, but you’ll find numerous Cath Kidston stores in convenient locations across the city, including stores at Heathrow and Gatwick airports – ideal for last-minute gifts!

Shopping at Cath Kidston in the UK and not an EU resident? Take advantage of the Tax Free Shopping service and save money by claiming back the VAT on any items you’ve purchased to take home with you – speak to a friendly member of staff instore if you think you might be eligible.

来打个招呼吧！

您可以在伦敦旗舰店找到Cath Kidston的完整 系列。该品牌最大的门店位于Piccadilly的中心 位置，Fortnum & Mason的隔壁。不过您也可 以在市内各个方便的地点找到多个Cath Kidston 专卖店，其中包括希斯罗机场店和盖威克机场 店——最后一次购物的理想场所！ 在英国境内购物而且是非欧盟居民？您将可以享 受免税购物服务。您购买回国的任何商品均可申 请退税。如果您符合资格，请咨询店内店员。

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VISIT US

CATH KIDSTON FLAGSHIP

178-180 Piccadilly, St James’s, W1J 9ER

MORE LONDON STORES: Covent Garden 28-32 Shelton St, WC2H 9JE • Marylebone 51 Marylebone High St, W1U 5HW Notting Hill 158 Portobello Rd, W11 2EB • Harrods 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL • St. Pancras International Pancras Rd, NW1 2QP Westfield London Level 1 Unit 1098, W12 7GF • Heathrow Airport Terminals 2, 3, 4 & 5 • Gatwick Airport North & South Terminals

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Royal Academy of Arts

Whitechapel Gallery

Eighteenth-century apartments with RA Collection works in all media, including architecture. To 20 Aug: Summer Exhibition 2017.

Huge, long-standing open-submission exhibition with hundreds of works in many media, all for sale. Daily 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-10pm; check for regular special events and free lunchtime concerts. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.royalacademy.org.uk. 6 Burlington Gardens, Piccadilly, W1J 0BD. T: 020-7300 8000.

E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Green Park.

Influential East End gallery, showcasing a range of contemporary art. To 20 Aug: Emanuel Almborg: Learning Matter. Swedish artist Emanuel Almborg presents a new work looking at the role technology plays in our everyday lives. To 10 Sep: Benedict Drew: The Trickle-Down Syndrome. New site-specific installation across five rooms comprising of five rooms drawing on references from the stage sets of classic Hollywood cinematographer Busby Berkeley to the Surrealist worlds of artist Max Ernst. TueSun 11am-6pm; Thur 11am-9pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.white chapel.org. 77-82 Whitechapel High St, E1 7QX. T: 020-7522 7888. Off map. Station: Aldgate East.

Saatchi Gallery Groundbreaking contemporary art in a renovated Georgian building, covering a mammoth space.

All exhibitions are free and temporary, with a range of artists from around the world.

To 6 Jul: From Selfie to Self-Expression.

Interesting exhibition exploring the history of the selfie, from Old Masters up until today. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.saatchi-gallery.co.uk. Duke of York’s HQ, King’s Rd, SW3 4RY. T: 020-7811 3070.

G5. Station: Sloane Square.

COMMERCIAL GALLERIES Alan Cristea Gallery A leading gallery in the European art scene that showcases contemporary paintings to sculpture.

To 31 Jul: Ian Davenport: Melismatic.

Etchings and monoprints. Admission free. www.alancristea.com. 43 Pall Mall, SW1Y 5JG. T: 020-7439 1866. E7. Station: Green Park.

October Gallery Contemporary art from all cultures, including ethnic, tribal and cutting-edge art. www.octobergallery. co.uk. 24 Old Gloucester St, WC1N 3AL. T: 0207242 7367. D8. Station: Holborn.

Serpentine Gallery A respected arts space in Kensington Gardens displaying modern and contemporary work.

To 8 Oct: Serpentine Pavilion. Francis Kéré’s temporary structure, which is home to events throughout the summer. To 10 Sep: Grayson Perry. See new works by the edgy British artist, with themes including art, masculinity and culture. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Admission free. www.serpentinegalleries.org. Kensington Gardens, W2 3XA. T: 020-7402 6075. E4. Station: South Kensington.

Serpentine Sackler Gallery Formerly a gunpowder store, this arts space near the Serpentine Gallery was designed by renowned architect Zaha Hadid. To 8 Sep: Arthur Jafa. First solo UK show of the iconic US filmmaker, who challenges cultural assumptions about identity and race. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Admission free. www.serpentinegallery.org. West Carriage Drive, Kensington Gardens, W2 2AR. T: 020-7402 6075.

E4. Station: South Kensington.

Tate Britain The nation’s leading collection of British art from 1500 to today, including the world’s largest collection of works by Turner. To 1 Oct: Queer British Art 1861-1967. Major exhibition marking the 50th anniversary of the decriminalisation of male homosexuality in England, featuring works from 1861-1967. To 20 Aug: Cerith Wyn Evans. Huge light installation. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk.

Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8888. G8.

Station: Pimlico.

Tate Modern International modern art in the transformed Bankside Power Station, plus regular performances and installations at The Tanks.

From 12 Jul: Soul of a Nation: Art in the Age of Black Power. A collection of powerful works by black artists during the dramatic period of the Civil Rights movement (p. 38). To 8 Oct: Fahrelnissa Zeid. Kaleidoscopic paintings by the Turkish avant-garde artist. To 10 Sep: Giacometti.

Retrospective of works by the distinctive Italian sculptor. Sun-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri & Sat 10am10pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Bankside, SE1 9TG. T: 020-7887 8888. E9. Station: Southwark. www.wheretraveler.com 47

ENTERTAINMENT | THE GUIDE Clockwise from this image: Barclaycard Presents British Summer Time; Norah Jones; The Jacksons

Start the music Forget wellies and collapsing tents – at London’s summer festivals you can dance into the evening before flopping into your hotel bed. More than 65,000 people a day attend Barclaycard Presents British Summer Time (to 9 Jul; p. 56) in Hyde Park. Headliners include Green Day (1 Jul) and Justin Bieber (2 Jul), supported by DJ Martin Garrix, electropop singer Tove Lo and Anne-Marie of Rockabye fame. You can also catch Kings of Leon and the Pixies (both 6 Jul). Missed out on tickets?

You can still make the most of the free comedy, films, tennis screenings, badminton and ping pong on offer, plus a pay-per-ride funfair.

If that’s got you in the mood for a party, then bag tickets for Summer Series at Somerset House (6-16 Jul; p. 58). After Norah Jones kicks things off (6 Jul), fellow Grammywinner Damian Marley will soothe with reggae beats (7 Jul), while electronic collective The Cinematic Orchestra gets the crowd wired (8 Jul). If the orchestra gives you a taste for electronica, then you’ll love duo Goldfrapp’s 48 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2017

synthpop and visuals (9 Jul). Cool down with the Grammy-winning jazz keyboardist Robert Glasper (11 Jul) and Birdy (12 Jul) before raising the proverbial roof with indie pop from Foster the People (13 Jul). Tom Misch (14 Jul), Lebanese indie band Mashrou’ Leila (15 Jul) and punk blues band Songhoy Blues (16 Jul) also perform.

Now in its fourth year, Greenwich Music Time returns to the Old Royal Naval College

in Greenwich (to 7 Jul; p. 56). The fully seated festival opens with Cliff Richard’s Just Fabulous...

Rock ‘n’ Roll tour (1-2 Jul). Hot on his heels will be R‘n’B soul star Alexander O’Neal (4 Jul) and The Jacksons on their 50th anniversary tour (6 Jul), while Little Mix holler Shout Out to My Ex (7 Jul). You can’t take food and drink with you, but there will be stalls on site.

Meanwhile, Kew the Music (11-16 Jul; p. 56) in Kew Gardens positively encourages you to bring your own picnic. Folk band Passenger opens the festival (11 Jul), followed by indie bands Razorlight, The Bluetones and Reef (all 12 Jul) and All Saints and Melanie C (both 13 Jul).

For something a bit different, Haçienda Classical transforms club anthems into orchestral compositions (14 Jul). Alternative rock band James, meanwhile, will rouse the crowd (15 Jul) while Mary J Blige rounds things off with R’n’B and soul (16 Jul).

Got your tickets yet?

BRITISH SUMMER TIME © DAVE J HOGAN/GETTY IMAGES; NORAH JONES COURTESY OF SOMERSET HOUSE; THE JACKSONS © JAMES WATKINS PHOTOGRAPHY

It wouldn’t be summer without music festivals. Sarah Riches looks at some of the big names that are coming to London

EVENING STANDARD

‘YOU’RE GONNA LOVE IT’ MAIL ON SUNDAY

OLIVIER AWARDS WINNER 2017

TOM EYEN MUSIC BY HENRY KRIEGER ORIGINAL BROADWAY PRODUCTION DIRECTED AND CHOREOGRAPHED BY MICHAEL BENNETT DIRECTED AND CHOREOGRAPHED BY CASEY NICHOLAW BOOK AND LYRICS BY

DAY SEATS AVAILABLE £20 DAY SEATS AVAILABLE FROM 10AM AT THE BOX OFFICE

SAVOY THEATRE | Strand, London, WC2R 0ET | DreamgirlsWestEnd.com

FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map (p. 88-89). Check for complete listings. TKTS booth has discounted tickets for West End shows (Leicester Square Gardens, WC2H 0AP)

Beautiful – The Carole King Musical Musical about the early life and career of the award-winning singer-songwriter. Mon & WedSat 7.30pm; Tue, Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£72.50. www.beautifulmusical.co.uk. Aldwych Theatre, 49 Aldwych, WC2B 4DF. T: 0845-200 7981.

E8. Station: Covent Garden/Holborn/Charing Cross.

The Book of Mormon This controversial and hilarious satire, from the writers of TV’s South Park, follows the exploits of two hapless missionaries from the Church of Latter Day Saints. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £34.75-£202.25. www.book ofmormonlondon.com. Prince of Wales Theatre, Coventry St, W1D 6AS. T: 0844-482 5110. E7.

Station: Leicester Square.

Committee... (A New Musical)

The Victorian novelist Charles Dickens is taking centre stage, as two of his stories, A Tale of Two Cities (from 7 Jul; p. 56) and Oliver Twist (from 17 Jul; p. 56) are coming to Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre. A Tale of Two Cities is directed by the theatre’s artistic director, Timothy Sheader, who says: ‘We haven’t staged anything by Dickens before, but he is arguably the greatest storyteller of London life. Our outdoor theatre lends itself to epic stories, and these are big stories to tell.’ Oliver Twist follows an orphaned boy surviving in a workhouse and is suitable for over sixes. Sheader adds: ‘Oliver Twist is an adventure story full of iconic characters. It is dark, but humorous too.’

MUSICALS & PERFORMANCES Aladdin This Broadway and West End hit has a stellar cast led by director and choreographer Casey Nicholaw (The Book of Mormon). Expect tunes such as A Whole New World and Friend Like Me with lyrics

by Tim Rice, and a real magic carpet. Just how do they do that? Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm.

Tickets £42.25-£101.75. www.aladdinthemusical. co.uk. Prince Edward Theatre, Old Compton St, W1D 4HS. T: 0844-482 5151. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Alice’s Adventures Underground Based on Lewis Carroll’s classic book, this immersive show from the award-winning theatre group Les Enfants Terribles has everything from colour-changing cocktails to acrobats. Please check for special child-friendly shows. It takes places in The Vaults beneath Waterloo Station.

Please check for times. Tickets £39-£71.50. www.alice-underground.com. The Vaults, Leake St, SE1 7NN. F8. Station: Waterloo.

An American in Paris Originally a jazz number written in 1928 by the American composer George Gershwin and then an Oscar-winning film of the same name in 1951, An American in Paris follows an American World War II veteran who falls for a woman in a bar in 1940s Paris. But will she marry him, or his friend? Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2pm. Tickets £19.50-£125. www.anamericaninparisthemusical. co.uk. Dominion Theatre, 268-269 Tottenham Court Rd, W1T 7AQ. T: 0845-200 7982. D7.

Station: Tottenham Court Road.

50 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2017

Annie Set in 1930s New York during the Great Depression, Annie and her fellow orphans are forced to live a life of misery. But Annie’s luck soon changes when she is picked to spend Christmas with a billionaire.

Miranda Hart stars as the orphanage’s manager (p. 56). Mon & Wed-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sun 3pm.

Tickets £20-£110. www.piccadillytheatre.org.

Piccadilly Theatre, 16 Denman St, W1D 7DY. T: 0844871 7630. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Bat Out of Hell: The Musical It’s been 40 years but the time has finally come to don fishnet stockings and black eyeliner again to celebrate Jim Steinman’s Bat Out of Hell.

Inspired by rocker Meat Loaf’s 1977 album of the same name, the musical roars on to the stage with the title track and all other hits including You Took the Words Right Out of My Mouth, I Would Do Anything for Love (But I Won’t Do That) and Two Out of Three Ain’t Bad – plus two new songs, What Part of My Body Hurts the Most and Not Allowed to Love.

Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets: £65-£250. www.batoutof hellmusical.com.

33 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4ES. T: 020-7845 9300.

E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Dreamgirls Glee TV star Amber Riley plays Effie White in this musical about the tumultuous journey of a young female singing trio from Chicago on their rise to stardom. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £20-£145. www.savoytheatre.org.

Savoy Theatre, Strand, WC2R 0ET. T: 0844-871 7687.

E8. Station: Charing Cross/Covent Garden.

42nd Street Directed by Mark Bramble, this romantic comedy follows an authoritarian director as he stages a musical extravaganza during the Great Depression.

Clare Halse (Gypsy) stars as Peggy, a small-town girl with big dreams who’s stuck in a chorus line on Broadway’s newest show. But when the leading lady Dorothy Brock (Sheena Easton) gets injured, Peggy has a shot at stardom. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £25-£125. www.42nd streetmusical.co.uk. Theatre Royal Drury Lane, Catherine St, WC2B 5JF. T: 0844-858 8877. D8.

Station: Covent Garden.

The Girls To 15 Jul: Take That superstar Gary Barlow has teamed up with his friend Tim Firth – the writer of the film Calendar Girls – to create this musical, which, like the film, is inspired by a true story. It follows a group of Yorkshire women who posed nude for a Women’s Institute charity calendar.

Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Tue, Thur & Sat 2.30pm.

Tickets £19.50-£95. www.phoenix theatrelondon.co.uk. Phoenix Theatre, 110 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0JP. T: 0843-316 1082. E7.

Station: Tottenham Court Road.

You can expect to be enchanted by the magical hit musical, Aladdin

REGENT'S PARK OPEN AIR THEATRE © DAVID JENSEN; ALADDIN © DISNEY

What the Dickens?

What happens when something goes wrong?

Who holds us accountable? In October 2015, as part of an inquiry into the collapse of Kids Company – a charity set up to provide support for deprived inner-city children – Alan Yentob and Camila Batmanghelidjh gave evidence to the Public Administration and Constitutional Affairs Committee. Transcripts of their oral evidence have now been transformed into this unauthorised new musical. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm.

Tickets £10-£40. www.donmarwarehouse.com.

Donmar Warehouse, 41 Earlham St, WC2H 9LX. T: 0844-871 7624. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

ENTERTAINMENT Half a Sixpence

Matilda the Musical

School of Rock: The Musical

Catch Cameron Mackintosh’s musical theatre version of HG Wells’s semi-autobiographical novel Kipps: The Story of a Simple Soul, which follows Arthur Kipps, an orphan and overworked draper’s assistant who unexpectedly inherits a fortune that propels him into high society. His childhood companion, Ann Pornick, watches with dismay as the beautiful Helen Walsingham gives Arthur a makeover. Both young women love him – but which of them should he listen to? Mon-Tue & Thur-Sat 7.30pm; Wed, Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £49.75-£127.25. www.halfasixpence.co.uk. Noël Coward Theatre, St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4AU. T: 0844-482 5140. E8. Station: Leicester Square.

Multi-award-winning show based on Roald Dahl’s children’s book, with music from Tim Minchin, about a clever little girl with magic powers who faces the wrath of her cruel headmistress, Miss Trunchbull. The brilliant young cast are members of the Royal Shakespeare Company. Tue 7pm; Wed-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm (also 27 Jul 2.30pm). Tickets £20-£122.50. www.matildathemusical.com. Cambridge Theatre, 32-34 Earlham St, WC2 9HU. T: 0844-412 4652.

D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Andrew Lloyd Webber’s latest musical, a hit on Broadway, follows failed rock star Dewey, who tries his hand as a supply teacher and turns the straight-A pupils into a rock band. Mon, Wed-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm. Tickets £15-£99.50. www.schoolofrockthemusical.com.

New London Theatre, 166 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PF. T: 020-7452 3000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Fun musical about a shoe factory which reinvigorates its business after its new owner decides to produce knee-high boots for drag queens. With music by Cyndi Lauper. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £39.50-£125. www.kinkybootsthemusical.co.uk. Adelphi Theatre, 409-412 Strand, WC2R 0NS. T: 0844-579 0094.

E8. Station: Charing Cross.

La Strada To 8 Jul: Based on Federico Fellini’s 1954 Italian tragedy – which won an Academy Award for Best Foreign Language film – this stage adaptation at the former St James Theatre is directed by Sally Cookson (The Play That Goes Wrong; Top Hat). The show features a score by Benji Bower and a live chorus on stage. The story follows Gelsomina after her penniless mother sells her to Zampano, a cruel, dominating sideshow strongman.

Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £20-£39.50. www.theotherpalace.co.uk. The Other Palace, 12 Palace St, SW1E 5JA. T: 0844-264 2140.

Off map. Station: St James’s Park/Victoria.

Les Misérables The world’s longest-running musical, adapted from Victor Hugo’s classic novel, is set in post-revolutionary France. Jean Valjean has been in prison for 19 years, and after escaping he changes his name for a new life. The sets are fantastic. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm.

Tickets £12.50-£143.75. www.lesmis.com. Queen’s Theatre, 51 Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 6BA. T: 0844-482 5160. D8. Station: Leicester Square/ Piccadilly Circus.

Disney’s The Lion King Wonderful adaptation of the popular Disney film with ingenious costumes and puppetry. The young lion Simba, heir to his father’s title, is threatened by evil uncle Scar (p. 58). Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Wed, Sat & Sun 2.30pm. Tickets £54-£167.50. www.thelionking.co.uk.

Lyceum Theatre, 21 Wellington St, WC2E 7RQ. T: 0844-871 3000.

E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Mamma Mia! This tribute to the popular music of ABBA, with a string of their well-known hits, has a feel-good story set on a Greek island. On the eve of her wedding, a young bride-to-be tries to find out who her real father is. Mon-Sat 7.45pm; Thur & Sat 3pm. Tickets £15-£72.50. www.mamma-mia.com.

Novello, Aldwych, WC2B 4LD. T: 0844-482 5115. E8. Station: Covent Garden/Temple.

52 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2017

An award-winning fusion of theatre, dance, comedy and rhythmic percussion, where this lively troupe uses a whole host of everyday objects including chairs, ladders and dustbin lids. It’s hugely entertaining. Mon & Thur-Sat 8pm; Thur & Sat-Sun 3pm; Sun 6pm; occasional Weds.

Tickets £26-£57.50. www.stomplondon. co.uk. Ambassadors Theatre, West St, WC2H 9ND. T: 020-7395 5405. D7.

Station: Leicester Square.

Feel-good musical based on the story of Motown Records, which launched the careers of Diana Ross and the Supremes, Michael Jackson and The Jackson 5, Stevie Wonder, Marvin Gaye and The Temptations. By the end of the night you’ll be Dancing in the Street. Please check for times and prices. www.shaftesburytheatre.com.

The Phantom of the Shaftesbury Theatre, 210 Shaftesbury Opera’s make-up takes Avenue, WC2H 8DP. T: 020-7379 two hours to apply 5399. D8. Station: Tottenham Court and 30 minutes Road/Holborn. to remove

The Phantom of the Opera Long-running Gothic drama in which a mysterious masked man, the Phantom, haunts the Paris Opera House and is obsessed with the young chorus singer, Christine. Phantom has been watched by more than 140 million people. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £24.80-£128.50. www.thephantomoftheopera.com. Her Majesty’s Theatre, 57 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QL. T: 0844-412 2707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Quentin Dentin Show To 29 Jul: Following a hugely successful run in the West End and Edinburgh, The Quentin Dentin Show has arrived at the Tristan Bates Theatre. The hit rock musical follows Keith and Nat, who accidentally summon a supernatural therapist from their radio. Cue a surreal and hilarious show with live rock music, co-produced

by Saudi producer Soha Khan. Please check for times. Tickets £16-£18. www.tristanbatestheatre. co.uk. Tristan Bates Theatre, 1a Tower St, WC2H 9NP. T: 020-3841 6611. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Top Pick

The Superhero

To 22 Jul: Colin and Christine split up five years ago. Now Christine is taking their daughter to Los Angeles with her new job, and there’s nothing Colin can do about it. Or is there? This one-man musical, directed by Adam Lenson, asks how far would you go to see your child? 3.30pm & 8pm. Tickets £16-£20. www.southwarkplayhouse.co.uk.

Southwark Playhouse, 77-85 Newington Causeway, SE1 6BD. T: 020-7407 0234. Off map. Station: Elephant and Castle.

Thriller Live Non-stop songs and dance celebrate Michael Jackson’s career. Please check for times and prices. www.thrillerlive.com. Lyric, 29 Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 7ES. T: 0844-482 9674. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Wedding Reception 21 Jul: Will and Kate dreamed of having an intimate wedding reception – but their family had other ideas.

As a guest, you’ll enjoy a three-course dinner and a hilarious improvised show. 7.30pm-10pm. Tickets £48.50. www.interactivetheatre.com.au. New Wimbledon Theatre, 93 Broadway, SW19 1QG. T: 0844-871 7646. Off map. Station: Wimbledon.

A hot ticket It might be warm outside, but it’s steaming on stage as Sienna Miller stars in Cat on a Hot Tin Roof at the Apollo Theatre (from 13 Jul; p. 54). Set on a summer night in Mississippi, Tennessee Williams’ 1955 play sees a family gather at their cotton plantation to celebrate a birthday. Brick (Jack O’Connell from Netflix’s Godless) and his wife Maggie (Miller) have secrets and sexual tensions that threaten to destroy their marriage.

The play arrived in the UK in 1958 – the year Elizabeth Taylor starred in Richard Brooks’ Academy Awardnominated film of the same name.

This version is directed by Benedict Andrews, who directed A Streetcar Named Desire with Gillian Anderson.

SIENNA MILLER AND JACK O'CONNELL © CHARLIE GRAY

Kinky Boots

Motown the Musical

Stomp

ENTERTAINMENT Wicked

The Comedy About a Bank Robbery

Harry Potter and the Cursed Child

The brilliant back story of the witches of Oz tells the back story of the unlikely friendship between two young women, Glinda and Elphaba, who meet as sorcery students. Enjoy the hit tunes Defying Gravity and Popular. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £24.25-£125. www.wicked themusical.co.uk. Apollo Victoria Theatre, 17 Wilton Rd, SW1V 1LG. T: 0844-871 3001. F7. Station: Victoria.

A hilarious play about six incompetent crooks desperate to get hold of a priceless diamond, which has been entrusted to the city bank – but even security guards can’t be trusted. It’s from the team behind The Play That Goes Wrong. Please check for times. Tickets £21.25-£73.75. www.the comedyaboutabankrobbery.com. The Criterion Theatre, 218-223 Piccadilly, W1V 9LB. T: 0844-815 6131. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The long-awaited parts I and II of the adaptation of JK Rowling’s new co-written story have already won many awards. Father-ofthree Harry now works for the Ministry of Magic.

His youngest son, however, grapples with a legacy he never really wanted. Suitable for all ages.

Most tickets sold out; please check for returns. www.harrypottertheplay.com. Palace Theatre, 113 Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 5AY. T: 0300-333 4813. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

The children’s novel has been brought to life by Julian Fellowes – creator of TV’s Downton Abbey. The musical stars Rufus Hound (One Man, Two Guv’nors) as Toad, a loveable rascal with a penchant for fast cars. Mon 7pm; Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Tue & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£95. www.windinthewillowsthemusical.com. London Palladium, Argyll St, W1F 7TF. T: 0844-412 2704.

D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Working To 8 Jul: This genre-defying musical, from award-winning Stephen Schwartz, tells the story of typical American workers, such as teachers, stay-at-home parents and firefighters. Contributing composers includes James Taylor. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Tue & Sat 3pm. Tickets £25. www.southwarkplay house.co.uk. Southwark Playhouse, 77-85 Newington Causeway, SE1 6BD. T: 020-7407 0234. Off map.

Station: Elephant and Castle.

PLAYS Cat on a Hot Tin Roof From 13 Jul: Sienna Miller stars in Tennessee Williams’ 1955 play about a family gathering in Mississippi which is simmering with secrets (p. 52). Please check for times and prices. www.youngvic.org. Young Vic, 66 The Cut, SE1 8LZ. T: 020-7922 2922. F9. Station: Waterloo.

Angels in America America, mid-1980s. This two-part drama is set in the midst of the AIDS crisis and a conservative Reagan administration, as New Yorkers grapple with life and death, love and sex, heaven and hell.

Stars Andrew Garfield. Please check for times.

Tickets £15-£65. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk.

Lyttelton Theatre, National Theatre, South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.

Common During the Industrial Revolution, Mary, a liar and thief, is set on winning back her former home before the common land that belongs to all disappears. Anne-Marie Duff takes the lead. Please check for times. Tickets £20-£60. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk. National Theatre, South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8.

Station: Waterloo.

Dessert From 12 Jul: A British financier and his wife host a lavish dinner party for their affluent American friends. Everyone is having an enjoyable time until the evening takes a sinister and alarming turn. With dark comic moments and unexpected twists, this world premiere is written by Oliver Cotton and directed by Trevor Nunn. It has a powerful message about wealth, greed and the lengths to which people will go to claim what’s theirs. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Tue & Sat 3pm. Tickets £12-£20. www.southwarkplayhouse.co.uk.

Southwark Playhouse, 77-85 Newington Causeway, SE1 6BD. T: 020-7407 0234. Off map. Station: Elephant and Castle.

Hamlet Olivier Award-winning director Robert Icke’s new production of Hamlet transfers to the West End. Starring BAFTA and Olivier Award-winner Andrew Scott (Sherlock; Birdland; Cock; Pride) as the Danish Prince, Juliet Stevenson as Gertrude and Jessica Brown Findlay as Ophelia, the play is brought to the stage by the critically acclaimed and multiaward-winning creative team behind 1984. Mon-Sat 7pm (not 3 or 10 Jul); Thur & Sat 1.30pm. Tickets £10-£90. www.haroldpinter.theater. Harold Pinter Theatre, Panton St, SW1Y 4DN. T: 0844-871 7622.

E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Super gran Following a UK tour, the stage version of the comedian and author David Walliams’ children’s book Gangsta Granny is coming to the Garrick Theatre (from 26 Jul; p. 60). It follows Ben as he stays in with his granny on a boring Friday night. He expects the same old grizzly cabbage soup, cabbage pie and cabbage cake – but his groovy granny has a secret to spice things up.

Adapted by Neal Foster, the play has been nominated for a UK Theatre Award in the Best Show for Children and Young People category, so it already has an official seal of approval – now it’s time for you to give yours. The show is suitable for children aged five and over.

54 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2017

Ink Set on Fleet Street in 1969, James Graham’s new play begins with the birth of The Sun newspaper – when a young and rebellious Rupert Murdoch (Bertie Carvel) launched its first editor’s quest, against all odds, to ‘give the people what they want’. Please check for times.

Tickets £10-£39.50. www.almeida.co.uk. Almeida Theatre, Almeida St, N1 1TA. T: 020-7359 4404.

Off map. Station: Highbury & Islington.

Life of Galileo To 1 Jul: An out of-this-world production of Brecht’s masterpiece on a wraparound set, directed by BAFTA-winner Joe Wright. 7.30pm. Tickets £10-£38. www.young vic.org. Young Vic, 66 The Cut, SE1 8LZ. T: 020-7922 2922. F9. Station: Waterloo.

Love in Idleness To 1 Jul: Set during the final years of World War II, young Michael Brown returns home after four years in Canada, bringing with him his youthful left-wing ideologies. When he discovers that his widowed mother, Olivia, has become the mistress of cabinet minister John Fletcher, the two personalities clash, putting into question her relationships. This play was last staged in London in 1944. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2pm. Tickets £25-£71.90. www.apollotheatre london.co.uk. Apollo Theatre, 31 Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 7ES. T: 0330-333 4809. E7.

Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Mousetrap A murderer strikes at a party in Agatha Christie’s classic whodunnit – one of the world’s longestrunning shows. The play is known for its twist ending, which the audience is traditionally asked not to reveal after leaving the theatre. Check for times and prices. www.the-mousetrap.co.uk.

St Martin’s Theatre, West St, WC2H 9NZ. T: 0844-499 1515. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

Our Ladies of Perpetual Succour Following sold-out seasons at the National Theatre, Edinburgh Festival Fringe and a UK tour, this National Theatre of Scotland play from the creator of Billy Elliot is an uplifting and moving story of six Catholic choir girls from Oban let loose in Edinburgh for one day. It’s funny, heartbreaking and raucously rude. Please check for times. Tickets £20-£85. www.dukeofyorks theatre.co.uk. Duke of York’s Theatre, 104 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4BG. T: 0844-871 7627.

E8. Station: Leicester Square.

The Play That Goes Wrong Award-winning slapstick comedy about an accident-prone amateur drama society staging a 1920s murder mystery. Not surprisingly, anything that can go wrong, does. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm & 7pm. Tickets £22-£67.50. www.theplaythatgoeswrong.com. Duchess Theatre, 3-5 Catherine St, WC2B 5LA. T: 0844482 9672. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

GANGSTA GRANNY COURTESY OF GARRICK THEATRE

The Wind in the Willows

‘BELIEVE THE HYPE’ NE W YO RK POST

THE MUSICAL MatildaTheMusical.com

CAMBRIDGE THEATRE, London, WC2H 9HU

ENTERTAINMENT

Directed by Natalie Abrahami, this play blends politics and sexual tension with satirical song.

Set in 1702 as England is on the verge of war, Princess Anne becomes Queen following the death of King William. Grieving over a miscarriage, her vulnerability is exploited by advisers with their own political agenda, particularly Sarah Churchill (Romola Garai), who may have been more than a childhood friend. Mon-Sat 7.30pm (except 10 Jul); Thur & Sat 2.30pm (except 6 Jul). Tickets £55-105. www.trh.co.uk. Royal Haymarket, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HT. T: 020-7930 8800. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Twitstorm To 1 Jul: Guy Manton is the much-loved host of a caustic TV panel show, until a throwaway remark is inadvertently shared with the world. Before long he is being battered by the Twitstorm in this hilarious exploration of what can happen when the self-righteousness of social media gets out of hand. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 3pm. Tickets £20-£29.50. www.park theatre.co.uk. Park Theatre, Clifton Terrace, N4 3JP. T: 020-7870 6876. Off map. Station: Finsbury Park.

The Woman in Black A Gothic ghost story adapted from Susan Hill’s novel, about a lawyer who visits a remote house on eerie marshes to settle affairs after a woman’s death. While trying to find out the truth of the family curse, the lawyer soon ends up in a difficult situation. This long-running play has been scaring West End audiences for 27 years. Tue-Sat 8pm; Tue & Thur 3pm; Sat 4pm. Tickets £19.50-£60. www.thewomaninblack.com. Fortune Theatre, Russell St, WC2B 5HH. T: 0844-871 7626. D8.

Station: Covent Garden.

Yank! A WWII Love Story From 3 Jul: In 1943, a young male reporter for Yank, a magazine for and by servicemen, follows the men in Charlie Company as they struggle to survive when the odds are stacked against him. Based on the off-Broadway hit production, the play is directed by James Baker, and features a story and evocative 1940s music

by American brothers David and Joseph Zellnik.

Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed 2.30pm; Sat 3pm. Tickets £17.50-£39.50. www.charingcrosstheatre.co.uk.

Charing Cross Theatre, The Arches, Villiers St, WC2N 6NL. T: 0844-493 0650. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

OPEN AIR Much Ado About Nothing From 14 Jul: Shakespeare’s classic play is transported to Mexico in 1910.

Claudio has been pining for his love, Hero, while Benedick is in love with his cousin Beatrice. But because Benedick or Beatrice won’t admit it, nothing seems likely to bring them together – until Benedick proves his love by vowing to kill his best friend, Claudio. Check for times. Tickets £5-£45. www.shakespearesglobe.com.

Shakespeare’s Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919. E10.

Station: Blackfriars.

Miranda Hart stars as the evil Miss Hannigan in the hit musical, Annie (p. 50) 56 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2017

British Summer Time (BST)

Oliver Twist From 17 Jul: Charles Dickens’ famous

play about an orphan surviving in a Victorian workhouse (p. 50). While dark, it is humorous and suitable for over sixes. Please check for times. Tickets £18. www.openairtheatre.com.

Open Air Theatre, Regent’s Park, NW1 4NU. T: 0844-826 4242. C6. Station: Baker Street.

On the Town To 1 Jul: With an incredible Bernstein score, this classic dance musical is set in New York, where three sailors want some fun on their shore leave. 7.45pm. Tickets £25-£65. www.openairtheatre.com. Open Air Theatre, Regent’s Park, NW1 4NU. T: 0844-826 4242. C6.

Station: Regents Park.

Summer of Love Celebrate love at the Globe with a series of romantic performances, including Much Ado About Nothing (from 14 Jul). Check for times.

Tickets £5-£45. www.shakespeares globe.com. Shakespeare’s Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 0207401 9919. E10. Station: Blackfriars.

To 9 Jul: A brilliant annual music festival held outdoors in Hyde Park. Among the acts you can hear are Green Day, Justin Bieber, Anne-Marie, Naughty Boy, Kings of Leon, The Killers, British Sea Power and Tom Petty & The Heartbreakers.

Please check for full line-up. The festival also has a host of free events, including open-air films, comedy, daily tennis screenings, badminton and ping pong. There is a pay-per-ride funfair, too. www.bst-hydepark.com. Parade Ground, east side of Hyde Park, W2 2UH. E5. Station: Marble Arch/ Hyde Park Corner/Bond Street/Knightsbridge/ Green Park/ Lancaster Gate.

Citadel 16 Jul: Laura Marling, House Gospel Choir and

Wild Beasts are some of the performers at this one-day outdoor festival. Also includes kids’ activities and a Sunday papers discussion by The Frontline Club. Adult £55.25; child £6.25.

Theatre Royal Drury Lane www.citadelfestival.com. Victoria is allegedly haunted Park, Grove Rd, E3 5TB. Off map. by several ghosts, Station: Mile End. including clown

Joseph Grimaldi

A Tale of Two Cities From 7 Jul: A new adaptation of Charles

Dickens’ novel, A Tale of Two Cities (p. 50). Set in London and Paris during the French Revolution, this version is directed by the theatre’s artistic director, Timothy Sheader. Please check for times.

Tickets £25-£48.50. www.openairtheatre.com.

Open Air Theatre, Regent’s Park, NW1 4NU. T: 0844-826 4242. C6. Station: Baker Street.

Twelfth Night Twins Sebastian and Viola are shipwrecked on the coast of Illyria, separated and believing each other to be dead. Beside herself with grief, Viola disguises herself as a boy and goes into the service of the Duke Orsino. The Duke, who is madly in love with the Countess Olivia, sends Viola to woo on his behalf. What could possibly go wrong? Please check for times.

Tickets £5-£45. Shakespeare’s Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919. E10.

Station: Blackfriars.

FESTIVALS & EVENTS BBC Proms From 14 Jul: Annual festival celebrating classical music, with the aim of bringing it to the masses at reasonable prices. Enjoy well-known orchestras, composers and soloists, plus children’s concerts. Most concerts take place at the Royal Albert Hall, but there are also some at Cadogan Hall. Please check for full listings. www.bbc.co.uk/ proms. Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212. F4.

Station: South Kensington.

Greenwich + Docklands International Festival

To 8 Jul: Fantastic free festival of performing outdoor arts, including street art, acrobats and light shows plus video projections, pyrotechnics choreography and fireworks at various venues. www.festival.org. T: 020-8305 1818.

Greenwich Music Time To 7 Jul: Annual music festival (p. 48). 1-2 Jul: Cliff Richard. 4 Jul: Alexander O’Neal. 6 Jul: The Jacksons. 7 Jul: Little Mix. Check for times. Tickets

£29.50-£45. www.greenwichmusictime.co.uk. Old Royal Naval College, SE10 9NN. T: 0844-844 0444.

Off map. Station: Greenwich/Cutty Sark.

Kew the Music 11-16 Jul: Annual music festival in the gorgeous

grounds of Kew Gardens (p. 48). Picnics are encouraged. 11 Jul: Passenger. 12 Jul: Razorlight.

13 Jul: All Saints + Melanie C + Sophie Ellis-Bextor.

14 Jul: Hacienda Classical. 15 Jul: James. 16 Jul: Mary J Blige. Please check for times and prices. www.kewthemusic.org. Kew Gardens, TW9 3AB. T: 020-8332 50005. Off map. Station: Kew Gardens.

Lambeth Country Show 15-16 Jul: This is an enormous festival for all ages, with everything from live music on stages and street food to sheep shows, jousting, motorcycle stunts, birds of prey and massage tents. www.lambeth countryshow.co.uk. Brockwell Park, SE24 9BJ. T: 0207926 7085. Off map. Station: Brixton/Herne Hill.

Lovebox 14-15 Jul: Massive annual festival with international stars and DJs. Cowboy boots/ trendy wellies are obligatory. Take your pick of headliners, which include Rag ‘n’ Bone Man, Anne-Marie, Solange, Annie Mac and Jess Glynne.

Tickets £72.25. www.loveboxfestival.com. Victoria Park, E3 5TB. Off map. Station: Mile End.

The Luna Cinema Watch classic films and blockbusters such as Dreamgirls, Ghostbusters and the Rocky Horror Picture Show under the stars at iconic venues around London and the UK, from the beautiful Alexandra Palace near Wood Green to Crystal Palace Park in south London. Please check for times and venues. Adult £15; child £10. www.thelunacinema.com. T: 0844-858 6767.

ANNIE © MATT CROCKETT

Queen Anne

www.wheretraveler.com 57

ENTERTAINMENT Royal Opera House

6-16 Jul: Outdoor music festival in Somerset House’s courtyard (p. 48). 6 Jul: Norah Jones. 7 Jul: Damian ‘Jr Gong’Marley. 8 Jul: The Cinematic Orchestra. 9 Jul: Goldfrapp + Sloes. 10 Jul: Warpaint + Yak. 11 Jul: The Robert Glasper Experiment + Gabriel Garzon Montano. 12 Jul: Birdy + Little Hours. 13 Jul: Foster The People + Klangstof. 14 Jul: Tom Misch + Carmody & Andreya Triana. 15 Jul: Mashrou’ Leila. 16 Jul: Songhoy Blues.

The Royal Ballet Company’s home base.

To 4 Jul: La Traviata. Ekaterina Bakanova and Corinne Winters lead two excellent casts in Richard Eyre’s much-loved production of Verdi’s most famous opera. 5-16 Jul: Turandot. Christine Goerke and Lise Lindstrom take the title role in Andrei Serban’s striking staging of Puccini’s final opera. To 7 Jul: Mitridate, re di Ponto. Christophe Rousset conducts an excellent cast including Albina Shagimuratova, Bejun Mehta, Lucy Crowe and Michael Spyres in Graham Vick’s acclaimed production of Mozart’s early opera.

To 15 Jul: Otello. Antonio Pappano conducts a new production of Verdi’s thrilling Shakespeare-inspired opera directed by Keith Warner, starring Jonas Kaufmann and Gregory Kunde in the title role.

Please check for times and prices. www.roh. org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Check for times. Tickets £29.50-£40. www.somerset house.org.uk. Somerset House, Strand, WC2R 1LA. T: 0844-847 2461. E8. Station: Temple.

Underbelly Festival

A packed schedule of comedy, circus, cabaret and family shows, plus one of London’s biggest outdoor bars. Don’t miss Flip FabriQue’s high-spirited circus of acrobatic tricks, stunts and energetic showmanship with Catch Me (Attrape Moi) (to 9 Jul). Check for times and prices. www.underbelly festival.com. Belvedere Road Coach The first important Park, SE1 8XX. T: 0844-545 8252. musical works to E8. Station: Waterloo.

DANCE Royal Opera House

15-16 Jul: Free festival in a neighbourhood park in north-east London, with outdoor and covered stages for live bands, headlined by Toots and the Maytals.

The event also has a craft trail, dance tent and spoken-word performances, plus food and drink stalls. www.walthamstowgardenparty.com.

Lloyd Park, Forest Rd, E17 4PP. Off map.

Station: Walthamstow.

The Royal Ballet Company’s home base. 9 Jul: The Royal Ballet School Summer Performance 2017. From 24 Jul: Don Quixote. The Mariinsky Ballet’s London season opens with the company’s production of Petipa and Gorsky’s classic.

From 27 Jul: Swan Lake. The Mariinsky Ballet dances Konstantin Sergeyev’s classic production of Tchaikovsky’s masterpiece. Check for times and prices. www.roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Wireless

Sadler’s Wells

Walthamstow Garden Party

be heard at the Royal Opera House were

by Handel

7-9 Jul: Annual music festival in a huge

neighbourhood park. This year’s headliners include Chance the Rapper, Zara Larsson, Skepta and The Weeknd. £55-£62. www.wirelessfestival. co.uk. Finsbury Park, N4. T: 0333-321 9999.

Off map. Station: Finsbury Park.

OPERA Barbican 5-10 Jul: Opera Makers. Guildhall School singers and repetiteurs perform new works written by Guildhall students. 2.30pm & 7pm. Tickets £10. www.barbican.org.uk. Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 8891. C10. Station: Barbican.

London Coliseum Home of English National Opera. 1-2 Jul: The Dream of Gerontius. Edward Elgar’s soaring work is a choral classic work that pits one man against God. www.eno.org. St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4ES. T: 020 8745 9300. E8. Station: Leicester Square.

Opera Holland Park Annual opera festival in a temporary venue in this beautiful park, where festival-goers can bring a picnic to eat before the performance. 1 Jul: The Royal Ballet School. 13, 19, 20, 21, 22, 25, 26, 28 & 29 Jul: Alice. Following the hugely successful sell-out run at the Royal Opera House’s Linbury Theatre, the opera is returning to the magical gardens of the Yucca Lawn. 15, 19, 21, 26 & 28 Jul: Kát’a Kabonava. Janácek’s extraordinary masterpiece.

18, 20, 22, 27 & 29 Jul: Zazà. Leoncavallo’s opera follows the life of a Parisian music hall singer.

Check for times and prices. www.opera hollandpark.com. Holland Park, W8 6LU. T: 0300 999 1000. Off map. Station: Holland Park/High Street Kensington.

58 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2017

4-8 Jul: Voices of the Amazon. Sisters Grimm return

with the tale of a water spirit from the Amazon River, who ventures deep into the rainforest in search of a cure for her dying sister. With voiceover narration by Jeremy Irons and performed by 15 dancers, singers and musicians, this production fuses ballet, contemporary dance and capoeira with a Brazilian musical score.

12-15 Jul: Dorrance Dance.

Michelle Dorrance brings tap into the age of electronic music. Using Van Young’s electronic tap boards, the stage is able to talk back, as every step, swipe and scrape sets off an element of sound, building musical loops that turn the stage into a musical instrument in its own right. From 19 Jul: Tanguera.. Travel to the sultry streets of Buenos Aires and the world of the tanguera, the tango dancer.

With award-winning choreography by Argentinian dance superstar Mora Godoy.

Check for times and prices. www.sadlers wells.com. Sadler’s Wells Theatre, Rosebery Avenue, EC1R 4TN. T: 020-7863 8000.

Off map. Station: Angel.

CONCERTS: CLASSICAL Cadogan Hall Classical events hall. 1 Jul: Crouch End Festival Chorus. 8 Jul: Trinity Laban Conservatoire of Music & Dance (Beethoven, Bizet). 13 Jul: London Concert Choir – A Night at the Opera. 17 Jul: BBC Proms 2017 Chamber Music 1 – I Fagiolini (Montiverdi). Please check for times and prices. www.cadoganhall.com.

5 Sloane Terrace, SW1X 9DQ. T: 020-7730 4500.

G6. Station: Sloane Square.

Royal Festival Hall 1-2 Jul: The Dream of Gerontius (Elgar). 7 Jul: Bethia.

8 Jul: Mighty River. 9 Jul: Concerto for Clarinet and Orchestra (Holt). 16 Jul: Chineke! Junior Orchestra.

23 Jul: Star Trek: The Ultimate Voyage Live in Concert.

Please check for full listings, times and ticket prices. www.southbankcentre.co.uk. Royal Festival Hall, Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 0844-545 8252. E8. Station: Waterloo.

St James’s Piccadilly This beautiful 1676 church has free recitals every Mon, Wed & Fri at 1.10pm and concerts from 7.30pm. www.sjp.org.uk. St James’s Piccadilly, 197 Piccadilly, W1J 9LL. T: 020-7381 0441. E7.

Station: Piccadilly Circus.

St Martin-in-the-Fields Church Lunchtime and evening concerts and recitals. www.smitf.org. St Martin-in-the-Fields Church, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100.

E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Wigmore Hall 1 Jul: Doric String Quartet (Thomas Adès’s Piano Quintet). 3 Jul: Royal College of Music String Showcase (Dance Moves). 9 Jul: Navarra String Quartet (Haydn, Schubert, Beethoven). 10 Jul: Gould Piano Trio (Beethoven). 11 Jul: Pupils of

the Yehudi Menuhin School (Vivaldi, J.S. Bach). 16 Jul: Quatuor Mosaiques (Haydn, Mozart, Borodin). 24-25 Jul: Joshua Bell (Mendelssohn). Please check for full times and prices. www.wigmore-hall.org.uk.

36 Wigmore St, W1U 2BP. T: 020-7935 2141. D6.

Station: Bond Street.

CONCERTS: POP, JAZZ & WORLD Cadogan Hall Classical events hall. 4 Jul: Gabriel Latchin Trio. 14 Jul: Paul Richards Trio.

15 Jul: The Pink Singers: From Queer to Eternity Eternity. 18 Jul: Allison Neale Quartet.

25 Jul: Deelee Dubé. 25, 26 Jul: Katie Melua. 27 Jul: Curtis Stigers with the Ronnie Scott’s Big Band. 28-29 Jul: Ladysmith Black Mambazo. 13 Jul: London Concert Choir – A Night at the Opera.

17 Jul: BBC Proms Chamber Music 1. Check for times and prices. www.cadoganhall.com.

5 Sloane Terrace, SW1X 9DQ. T: 020-7730 4500.

G6. Station: Sloane Square.

Watch the pride of London in Disney’s long-running musical, The Lion King (p. 52)

IMAGE COURTESY OF THE LION KING

Summer Series at Somerset House

SEEN BY OVER 7 MILLION THEATREGOERS WORLDWIDE

THE ORIGINAL. LIVE ON STAGE. SUSAN HILL’S

ADAPTED BY

STEPHEN MALLATRATT

FORTUNE THEATRE

0844 871 7626 thewomaninblack.com Calls cost 7p per minute, plus your phone company’s access charge

Covent Garden

N O W B O O K I N G U N T I L M A R C H 2018

Photo: Pete Mueller

Where glass comes to life

WhereLondonAprilAd.indd 1

5 minutes from The Shard 62-66 Bermondsey Street londonglassblowing.co.uk

14/03/2017 15:34 www.wheretraveler.com 59

ENTERTAINMENT From the writers of DOWNTON ABBEY and MARY POPPINS THE MUSICAL comes

THE HIT FAMILY MUSICAL

The Jazz Café This live music and club specialises in jazz and funk. 7 Jul: Smino. St Louis MC Smino is a member of Chicago’s upstart Zero Fatigue Crew. 8 Jul: Havana Musica Presents: A Celebration of Cuban Music. 22 Jul: Horace Andy. A legendary voice in reggae history and undisputedly one of the most respected and influential singers in Jamaica.

Please check for times and prices. www.thejazz cafelondon.com. 5 Parkway, NW1 7PG. T: 0844847 2514. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

The O2 Enormous venue for live music. 3 Jul: Linkin Park.

19-20 Jul: Blink-182. Pop/rock/punk. 22 Jul: Hola!

London. Latin Music Festival. Please check for times and prices. www.theo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0AX. T: 0844-856 0202.

Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club

LONDON PALLADIUM STRICTLY LIMITED SUMMER SEASON

London’s most famous jazz venue. 4 Jul: George Benson. 11-12 Jul: Courtney Pine. One of the UK’s finest jazz musicians saxophonist performs tracks from his distinguished career and tracks from Black Notes from the Deep plus a special guest vocalist joining the band. 17-18 Jul: The Blind Boys of Alabama. The gospel singers first sang together as kids at the Alabama Institute for the Negro Blind in the late 1930s – including Jimmy Carter, who leads the group today. 19-21 Jul: Christian McBride’s New Jawn. Please check for times and prices. www.ronniescotts.co.uk. Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club, 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747.

D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Royal Albert Hall 1 Jul: Status Quo (acoustic set). 2 Jul: Woody Allen & His New Orleans Jazz Band. 2 Jul: The Crazy World of Arthur Brown (Elgar Room). 3 Jul: Jimi Hendrix (film screening, plus Q&A). 8 Jul: Wam Bam Club. Comical cabaret with burlesque. 9 Jul:

Gloria! Listen to 1,500 singers from The Really Big Chorus. Check for times and prices. www.royal alberthall.com. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 0207589 8212. F4. Station: South Kensington.

MATTHEW DUNSTER CHARLES DICKENS

a new play by adapted from the novel by

CHILDREN & FAMILIES

07 Jul - 05 Aug

The Borrowers Puppetry, original music, design and suspense come together in this play for five to 11 year olds.

Arietty has lived her whole life deep beneath the floorboards, dreaming of the great outdoors. When her father, Pod, finally brings her upstairs to learn the tricks of borrowing, Arietty meets a human boy. But their friendship risks everything and when the ‘human beans’ discover the Borrowers’ secret world‚ it’s time to escape! Tickets £10-£15.

Please check for times. www.polkatheatre.com.

Polka Theatre, 240 The Broadway, SW19 1SB. T: 020-8543 4888. Off map. Station: Wimbledon.

ANYA REISS CHARLES DICKENS

adapted by from the novel by

17 Jul - 05 Aug

Gangsta Granny

lyrics by

TIM RICE music by ANDREW LLOYD WEBBER

11 Aug - 23 Sep For best ticket availability please ask your hotel concierge or visit the website Open Air Theatre, Inner Circle, Regent’s Park, London NW1 4NU 60 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2017

0844 826 4242* openairtheatre.com

*Phone lines open 9am-9pm. Calls cost 7ppm plus your telephone company’s access charge.

From 26 Jul: Following a UK tour, the stage version of the comedian and author David Walliams’ children’s book Gangsta Granny (p. 54) follows Ben (Ashley Cousins) as he stays in with his granny (Gilly Tompkins) on a boring Friday night.

He expects the same old grizzly cabbage soup, cabbage pie and cabbage cake – but his groovy granny has a secret to spice things up. Cue some night-time adventures! It’s suitable for children five and over. Wed-Sun 7pm; Thur-Sun 2.30pm.

Tickets £23.50-£77.99. www.garricktheatre.org.

Garrick Theatre, 2 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0HH. T: 0844-482 9673. E7/8. Station: Leicester Square.

Hatch From 7 Jul: Hatch follows the extraordinary journey of an egg through different sensory worlds, each bursting with sights, sounds and a musical score by Brazilian percussionist Adriano Adewale. From flowing water and whistling winds, to the beautiful call of a bird and a voyage through the clouds, discover new sounds in unlikely places.

Suitable for two to five year olds. Please check for times. Tickets £9-£12.50. www.polkatheatre.com.

Polka Theatre, 240 The Broadway, SW19 1SB. T: 020-8543 4888. Off map. Station: Wimbledon.

FINAL WEEKS MUST END 5 AUGUST PRIOR TO UK & IRELAND NATIONAL TOUR

The Little Beasts 14-29 Jul: A dark and imaginatively comic musical

with puppets about a selfish girl who runs away from home and discovers a magical menagerie filled with animals that used to be children before their naughtiness brought them to untimely ends.

When the menagerie’s menacing proprietor tasks her to choose one animal to set free, she must decide which one, if any, has learned its lesson.

But things are not what they seem, and is any child truly naughty? Suitable for over sevens.

Please check for times. Tickets £7.50-£12.50. www.theotherpalace.co.uk. The Other Palace, 12 Palace St, SW1E 5JA. T: 0844-264 2140.

F7. Station: Victoria.

Cinderella 18-23 Jul: Great retelling of the classic children’s tale. Cinderella is tormented by her stepsisters and she can only dream of attending the prince’s glamorous ball. Abandoned to an evening of drudgery, she is visited by her Fairy Godmother who transforms her into a glittering princess who shall go to the ball. Suitable for children aged three and over. Please check for times. Tickets from £10. www.sadlerswells.com. Peacock Theatre, Portugal St, WC2A 2HT. T: 020-7863 8222. D8.

Station: Holborn.

Visit BeautifulMusical.co.uk Call 0845 200 7981

Red Riding Hood and the Wolf To 16 Jul: A new story about a kind and hungry wolf who strayed from the path and lost his friends. This wolf isn’t big or bad, in fact he’s rather shy. He won’t gobble up your grandma or tell you lies. He’s polite, gentle and an all-round nice guy. Check for times. Adult £12.50; child £10.50. www.littleangeltheatre.com. Little Angel Theatre, 14 Dagmar Passage, N1 2DN. T: 020-7226 1787. Off map. Station: Angel.

Sensacional, 2017 To 17 Jul: Take your little one to this sound and light show in which they will participate. Watch as your child puts on a white suit and becomes part of a digital world of ladybirds, shapes, squiggles and squarks that won’t keep still, no matter how hard you try to catch them. Bursting with colour and joy, this interactive and immersive digital experience will captivate both you and your child. Suitable for 18 months to three years. Check for times.

Tickets £10, includes one adult and two children. www.unicorntheatre.com. Unicorn Theatre, 147 Tooley St, SE1 2HZ. T: 020-7645 0560. E10.

Station: London Bridge.

The Wind in the Willows 19-23 Jul: A new adaptation of Kenneth Grahame’s

classic children’s story, featuring handmade puppets, props and costumes, with a charming original score. Suitable for five to 11 year olds.

Adult £10; child £8. Please check for times. www.littleangeltheatre.com. Little Angel Theatre, 14 Dagmar Passage, N1 2DN. T: 020-7226 1787.

Off map. Station: Angel. www.wheretraveler.com 61

SHOPPING | THE GUIDE

Right up your street Regent Street is one of London’s busiest streets – jammed between the world-famous locations of Oxford Street and Piccadilly Circus. Today it is one of the biggest shopping destinations in London, with more than seven million tourists coming to the area each year. The road is filled with flagship stores for big brands including Liberty, Hamleys, Apple and Burberry.

John Nash designed the street and it was completed in 1825. Named after Prince Regent – who later became King George IV – it gained its curved design by accident, because Nash was restricted by the space in which he could build.

This month the street becomes a haven for visitors during Summer Streets (2-23 Jul), a family-friendly festival that aims to become the biggest and boldest event of its kind.

The street turns traffic-free at the weekends, with a host of pop-up events and shops offering unique experiences, from exclusive giveaways to outdoor experiences.

62 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2017

Now in its fifth year, the event combines the themes of culture, style and wellness with food and drink.

As you wander along the road, you will find Anthropologie offering free workshops, such as tassel making, floristry and plant potting.

Get a ‘Kiehl’s on Wheels’ free skin consultation, take part in one of the themed exercise classes at lululemon at the Third Space or dip strawberries into chocolate at Godiva.

Feeling hungry? There will be limited-edition menus at many of the restaurants. Just off

Regent Street, in Heddon Street, you will find the food quarter. Heddon Street Kitchen returns with its barbecue serving burgers and chicken wings, Hawksmoor offers grilled meat, deep-fried queenies (queen scallops) and refreshing cocktails, while Gaucho has Argentinian food, from steak sandwiches to dulce de leche cheesecake.

All of the events are free, so head to Regent Street for great giveaways, in-store and outdoor experiences and one-off menus. www.regentstreetonline.com

IMAGES COURTESY OF SUMMER STREETS

As Regent Street turns traffic-free for the annual Summer Streets festival, you can enjoy exclusive events, giveaways and special food menus, says Kohinoor Sahota

FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Most shops are open 9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat, Sun 11am-4pm, and some open late on Thur evening. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 88-89

MAJOR SHOPPING AREAS

MAJOR STORES

Bond Street Home to designer boutiques, antiques, art and jewellery as well as auction houses Sotheby’s and Bonhams. D6/E6/E7. Station: Bond Street.

Designer names and regular events. Mon-Wed; Fri & Sat 10am-7pm; Thur 10am-8pm; Sun noon6pm. www.fenwick.co.uk. 63 New Bond St, W1S 1RQ. T: 020-7629 9161. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Canary Wharf

Fortnum & Mason

A first-class shopping destination located in a smart and impressive development in the Docklands. Map inset. Station: Canary Wharf.

Carnaby Street Once the domain for 1960s mods and rockers, these days the Carnaby area appeals to the fashionable set, with sports-inspired stores and edgy designers. D7/E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Covent Garden This former fruit and vegetable market is now a popular centre for arts, crafts and special interest shops and stalls. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Gabriel’s Wharf A small but charming wharf that’s home to some interesting craftspeople, from ceramicists to jewellers. You’ll also find a selection of restaurants including the OXO Tower. E9. Station: Waterloo.

Hatton Garden This hidden historic corner of London is home to the jewellery trade and the centre of the diamond industry. C9/D9. Station: Farringdon.

Jermyn Street & St James’s Some of the oldest specialist menswear shops in London are found in this area, including hatters and shirtmakers. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

King’s Road Once famous for upmarket and alternative fashion, this famous street still attracts a stylish crowd.

Department store Peter Jones is good for homeware and Duke of York Square has stylish shops and a food market. G4. Station: Sloane Square.

Oxford Street

WALLACE CHAN AT MASTERPIECE LONDON COURTESY OF MASTERPIECE LONDON

Europe’s busiest shopping street has major department stores including Selfridges and John Lewis, plus popular high-street chains. D6/D7.

Station: Oxford Circus/Bond Street/Marble Arch/ Tottenham Court Road.

Regent Street Originally designed by John Nash, this prestigious area (p. 62) includes Apple, Liberty, Swarovski, the first British Ferrari shop and Burberry. D6/D7/E7.

Station: Oxford Circus/Piccadilly Circus.

Savile Row One of London’s most famous areas for tailoring is in upmarket Mayfair. Find bespoke tailors including Anderson & Sheppard, Gieves & Hawkes, Hardy Amies and Kilgour. E7. Station: Green Park.

Seven Dials In the heart of quirky Covent Garden are seven streets full of independent boutiques, heritage brands and vintage stores. www.sevendials.co.uk.

D8. Station: Covent Garden.

St Christopher’s Place Home to an exciting mix of shops selling accessories, shoes, designer brands and more, plus London’s largest concentration of pavement dining. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Fenwick

This British institution is famed for its food hall.

Mon-Sat 10am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.fortnum andmason.com. 181 Piccadilly, W1A 1ER. T: 0845-300 1707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Hamleys One of the world’s biggest toy shops with gadgets, soft toys and demonstrations. MonFri 9am-10pm; Sat 9.30am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.hamleys.com. 188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT. T: 0871-704 1977. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Harrods Edwardian food and meat halls; men’s, women’s and children’s fashion departments plus restaurants and bars. Mon-Fri 10am-9pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.harrods.com. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

House of Fraser Fashion, beauty, homeware and electrical goods. Mon-Fri 9.30am-10pm; Sun noon-6.30pm. www.houseoffraser.com. 318 Oxford St, W1C 1HF. T: 0844-800 3752. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

John Lewis Find designer fashion labels, homeware and electrical goods at this trusted chain. Mon-Wed & Fri 9.30am-8pm; Thur 9.30am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.johnlewis.com. 300 Oxford St, W1A 1EX. T: 020-7629 7711. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Marks & Spencer Reliable source for lingerie and food, as well as many fashion collections (multiple locations around London). Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.marksandspencer.com.

458 Oxford St, W1C 1AP. T: 020-7935 7954.

D6. Station: Marble Arch.

Liberty The epitome of heritage combined with cutting-edge design and the brand’s famous prints. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.liberty.co.uk. Great Marlborough St, W1B 5AH. T: 020-7734 1234. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Selfridges Browse some of the finest products in beauty and fashion, including exclusive and limited-edition products. Mon-Sat 9.30am-10pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.selfridges.com. 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 0800-123 400. D6. Station: Bond Street.

LUXURY ARCADES Burlington Arcade Regency arcade running from Burlington Gardens to Piccadilly. Each morning it opens with a gate ceremony. www.burlington-arcade.co.uk. Burlington Arcade, W1J 0QJ. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Leadenhall Market A grand Victorian covered market in the heart of the city, bustling with boutiques. www.cityoflondon. gov.uk. Leadenhall Market, Gracechurch St, EC3V 1LR. T: 020-7621 0709. D11. Station: Monument.

MALLS & FACTORY OUTLETS Bicester Village Find discount designer clothes at this haven in Oxfordshire. Mon-Wed & Fri 9am-9pm; Thur & Sat 9am-10pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www.bicestervillage.com.

Bicester Village, Bicester, Oxfordshire, OX26 6WD. T: 01869-323 200. Off map. Station: Bicester Village, from London Marylebone. There is also a bus pick-up service from major hotels.

London Designer Outlet Find around 70 high-street retailers offering reductions of up to 70 per cent. Check for opening times. www.london-designer-outlet.com. Wembley Park Boulevard, HA9 OQL. T: 020-8912 5210.

Off map. Station: Wembley Park.

Making a masterpiece How do you fancy a Warhol, a Picasso or a Lichtenstein on your wall? At Masterpiece London (to 5 Jul) you could get just that; the event, now in its eighth year, showcases big as well as up-andcoming names. The prestigious international arts and antiques fair attracts thousands of art lovers to the Royal Hospital Chelsea. This year sees 150 galleries, including 26 new exhibitors, from England but also as far afield as Hong Kong and New York. www.masterpiecefair.com

www.wheretraveler.com 63

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18 Monmouth St, WC2H 9HB. T: 020-3393 7946. www.murdocklondon.com

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SHOPPING Links of London

This mall has more than 300 shops, from high-street names to high-end fashion labels. www.westfield. com/london. Ariel Way, W12 7GF. T: 020-3371 2300.

Map inset. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.

Jewellery and watches with high-quality designs. www.linksoflondon.com. 491 Oxford St, W1A 2LR. T: 020-7491 2371. D5. Station: Bond Street.

Westfield Stratford City

Jewellery and gifts, including Pandora’s much-loved charm bracelets that you can build. www.pandora.net.

257-259 Oxford St, W1C 2DD. T: 020-7407 2007. D6.

Station: Oxford Circus.

Massive mall with 270 shops as well as a cinema and casino. www.westfield.com/stratfordcity.

2 Stratford Place, E20 1EJ. T: 020-8221 7300.

Map inset. Station: Stratford.

FASHION Alexander McQueen A must for men’s and women’s fashions, this flagship boutique has the label’s signature skull scarves. www.alexandermcqueen.co.uk. 4-5 Old Bond St, W1S 4PD. T: 020-7355 0088. E7. Station: Green Park.

Banana Republic UK flagship offering a full range of men’s and womenswear (multiple locations around London). www.bananarepublic.eu. 224 Regent St, W1B 3BR. T: 020-7758 3550. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Burberry Find the full Burberry London and Prorsum collections featuring clothing for men, women, children and babies, including a winning mix of classic and funky raincoats, separates and accessories (multiple locations around London). www.burberry.com. 121 Regent St, W1B 4TB. T: 020-7806 8904. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Hackett For those who hanker after the British gentlemanat-leisure look, this store is hard to beat. Find polos, sporting jackets and cords, suits and plenty of accessories (multiple locations around London). www.hackett.com. 193-197 Regent St, W1B 4LY. T: 020-7494 4917. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Juicy Couture Find clothing, jewellery and accessories for women, including contemporary casualwear. www.juicycouture.com. 198 Regent St, W1B 5TP. T: 020-7734 2413. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

River Island Stylish, affordable fashion for men, women and children. Look out for the Style Studio, a personal shopper lounge with sofas and a bar. www.riverisland.com. 473 Oxford St, W1C 3AU. T: 0344-334 0506. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

Stella McCartney With feminine clothes and accessories, this boutique brings some chic to a Mayfair side street (multiple locations around London). www.stellamccartney.co.uk. 30 Bruton St, W1J 6QR. T: 020-7518 3100. E6. Station: Green Park.

Topshop London’s affordable clothing store offers fashionforward pieces. Find mini and vintage ranges, plus personal shopping (multiple locations). www.top shop.com. 36-38 Oxford Circus, W1W 8LG. T: 0844848 7487. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

BAG COURTESY OF CATH KIDSTON

Moynat

Westfield London

JEWELLERY & WATCHES

Pandora

Tiffany & Co This world-renowned jeweller displays exquisite designer gems (multiple locations around London). www.tiffany.com. The Courtyard, Royal Exchange, EC3V 3LQ. T: 020-7409 2790. D10.

Station: Bank.

Wempe Grand, spacious setting for the luxury German family business, established in 1878. Large selection of jewellery and fine watches. www.wempe.com. 43-44 New Bond St, W1S 2SA. T: 020-7493 2299.

E6. Station: Bond Street.

The UK flagship of the Parisian luxury luggage and handbag brand. www.moynat.com. 112 Mount St, W1K 2TU. T: 020-7495 3885. E6. Station: Bond Street/Green Park.

Tumi Brand leaders in prestigious luggage, business cases and accessories (multiple locations around London). www.tumi.com. 211 Regent St, W1B 4NF. T: 020-7493 4138. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

SPECIALIST STORES Buckingham Palace Shop

A wide range of royal souvenirs, including a jewellery line created by Alex Monroe.

Mon-Sat 9.30am-5pm. www.royal collectionshop.co.uk. 7 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7839 In 1837, Queen Victoria granted Twinings its first 1377. E6. Station: Victoria.

Royal Warrant – it was the tea supplier of her household

KIDS’ STORES The Disney Store The Oxford Street branch has received a sprinkle of magic and has high-tech interactive entertainment.

Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm (branches also in WC2 and W12). www.disneystore.co.uk. 350-352 Oxford St, W1C 1JH. T: 020-7491 9136. D6.

Station: Bond Street.

LEGO Store LEGO merchandise, including a huge replica of Big Ben made from bricks. 3 Swiss Court, W1D 6AP. T: 020-7839 3480. www.lego.com/en-gb/stores. E7.

Station: Leicester Square.

M&M’s World Sweet treats, including London-inspired chocolate souvenirs. Mon-Sat 10am-midnight; Sun noon-6pm. www.mmsworld.com. 1 Swiss Court, W1D 6AP. T: 020-7025 7171. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

The Nickelodeon Store Products inspired by the TV channel’s shows.

Mon-Fri 10am-10pm; Sat 10am-11pm; Sun noon-6pm. 1 Leicester Square, WC2H 7NA. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

LEATHER & LUGGAGE Anya Hindmarch Luxurious leather goods ranging from wallets to sequinned evening bags (multiple locations). www.anyahindmarch.com. 118 New Bond St, W1S 1EW. T: 020-7493 1628. E7.

Station: Bond Street.

Cath Kidston

Home to stylish accessories, from stationery to bags, with London prints.

Look out for the new Disney collection, which includes 101 Dalmations-inspired gifts. www.cathkidston.com. 178-180 Piccadilly, W1J 9ER. T: 020-7499 9895. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

John Bell & Croyden This wellbeing emporium is more than 200 years old and is the official pharmacy to the Queen. It offers emergency prescriptions and vaccinations, as well as specialist doctors. www.johnbellcroyden.co.uk.

Please check for opening times. 50-54 Wigmore St, W1U 2AU. T: 020-7935 5555. D6. Station: Bond Street.

London Glassblowing Home to wonderful jewellery, decorations, vases, ornaments and unusual items. You can pick up a dazzling souvenir here, and try out a glassblowing session, too. www.londonglassblowing.co.uk.

62-66 Bermondsey St, SE1 3UD. T: 020-7403 2800.

F11. Station: London Bridge.

Twinings This is one of the capital’s oldest shops – it has been trading from 1706 – and is full of a variety of delicious teas and infusions. You can even enjoy a free Tea Tasting session (p. 44). Mon-Fri 9.30am-8pm; Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-6pm. www. twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.

We Built This City Quirky souvenir shop where classic items are given a twist. Look out for illustrations of London icons and maps. Mon-Wed 10am-7pm; ThurSat 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.webuilt thiscity.co.uk. 56-57 Carnaby St, W1F 9QF. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

The Whisky Exchange Specialist retailer of fine whiskies and spirits, with more than 5,000 whiskies from around the world. www.thewhiskyexchange.com.

2 Bedford St, WC2E 9HH. T: 020-7403 8688. E8.

Station: Charing Cross.

Harry Winston The king of diamond jewellery for more than 80 years in London. Discover the beautifully designed gems loved by international royalty and Hollywood’s elite. www.harrywinston.com. 171 New Bond St, W1S 4RD. T: 020-7907 8800. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Make a style statement with this boldly patterned bag from Cath Kidston www.wheretraveler.com 65

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E Tumi & Mason Osprey London Hawes 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 020Cath Kidston Bates Hatters & Curtis 7318 3987. www.selfridges.com Alfred EET Links of RLondon Dunhill J E R M Y N S T Emmett Jones Bootmaker Paxton & Whitfield T.M.Lewin Church’s Hackett Longmire Thomas Pink Visitors flock to this mock-Tudor building, BOND STREET

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The leading department store contains men’s and women’s fashions, as well as its world-famous prints that you can find in the haberdashery department, on its scarves and adorning stationery.

Regent St, W1B 5AH. T: 020-7734 1234. www.libertylondon.com

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FALL IN LOVE , WITH LONDON S FINEST DIAMONDS Visit Hatton Garden and fall in love with London’s finest collection of jewellery and diamonds Nestled in the heart of Holborn and just a short taxi ride from London’s West End, you’ll find the historical area of Hatton Garden. Here you’ll discover one of London’s hidden gems; a place steeped in history and romance since Queen Elizabeth I gifted a house and garden in the grounds of Ely Palace to a handsome courtier in 1576.

By 1870, Hatton Garden had established an international reputation as London’s jewellery quarter and the UK’s centre for diamonds. As the trend for more extravagant and expensive items of jewellery grew, the demand for hand-made fine jewellery and exquisite diamonds increased.

The specialist jewellers in Hatton Garden became famous for trading diamonds, often shipping rare stones around the world as jewellery became a symbol of not only wealth

and stature, but of love and affection.

Today, the romance lives on and the Hatton Garden Jewellery Group is a collection of eight stores in Hatton Garden near Farringdon. Since the group’s flagship store Beverley Hills Jewellers opened in 1987, the family-owned brand has carved out a reputation for leading the local market in truly British jewellery design including bespoke diamond pieces, coloured gemstones and remodelling of existing jewellery.

So if you’re looking to purchase a token of your love and affection for someone special in your life then look to one of Hatton Garden Jewellery Group’s stores to find your desired piece!

For more information, please ask your Concierge for directions and visit any of our stores or call T: 020-7405 4847 and ask to speak to the group’s General Manager, Carolyn Jackson.

VISITORS OFFERED 30% DISCOUNT OFF RRP (excluding pre-owned and sale goods)

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The Bloomsbury Set – which included the writers Virginia Woolf and EM Forster – probably never expected they would inspire perfume. Yet Jo Malone has created The Bloomsbury Set collection with fragrances for men and women, from leather and artemisia to garden lilies.

150 Sloane Terrace, SW1X 9BX. T: 0370-192 5121. www.jomalone.co.uk

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Red soles at the bottom of the shoes can only mean one thing: Christian Louboutin. The French designer’s shoes S DN have graced the feet of Kylie Minogue, L G WEL M O R C Kate Moss and Emma Watson. Live out your footwear fantasies at this shop, which also sells leather accessories.

23 Motcomb St, SW1X 8LB. T: 0843-227 4322. www.eu.christianlouboutin.com

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TAX-FREE SHOPPING Value Added Tax (VAT) is a 20% sales tax added on all goods except food, books and children’s clothing.

Overseas visitors from outside the EU can shop tax-free in the UK, recouping some of the cost of the item. Don’t forget to ask in-store for more information about tax-free shopping.

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Come and explore Hamleys Toy Shop!

With over 50,000 Toys across 7 floors!

Normal opening times for most shops are Mon-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 11am-5pm unless stated otherwise.

Some shops may stay open until 9pm on Thursdays for late-night shopping.

188-196 Regent Street, London W1B 5BT

www.hamleys.com/explore

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DINING | THE GUIDE Clockwise from left: Rick Stein; London Shell Co; Bibendum Below: London Shell Co

Catch of the day Top chef Rick Stein – famed for many years for his myriad cookery books and TV programmes – has finally relented and opened his first London restaurant.

Located in Barnes, on the River Thames near Hammersmith, it’s simply named Rick Stein and specialises in seafood, naturally, with signature dishes including his famous Dover sole à la meunière and Indonesian seafood curry (125 Mortlake High St, SW14 8SN).

Famously known as the iconic, Art Deco home of Michelin tyres, Bibendum restaurant was a huge hit when it was opened in 1987 by Sir Terence Conran. Enjoying a recent revamp, it now boasts Michelin-starred chef Claude Bosi at the helm, who has added his touch to the ground-floor seafood and oyster bar for all-day dining. Tuck into an afternoon glass of Champagne with oysters, or dine on a sharing fruits de mer platter – a mound of crustacean heaven. Upstairs in the fine-dining restaurant, which has floor-to-ceiling windows and dazzling blue stained-glass windows, the star of the show 70 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2017

is none other than the rotund Michelin man himself (Michelin House, 81 Fulham Rd, SW3 6RD).

The magical aspect of London Shell Co is that you dine aboard a wide-beamed canal boat, The Prince Regent, which cruises gently from Paddington to Camden Lock, and back.

There’s a cosy, romantic ambience onboard; the dining area is dimly lit with candles jammed into wine bottles, and the fixed five-course menu (changing daily) offers the likes of smoked cod’s roe with nigella seeds, and Cornish monkfish with Jersey Royal new

potatoes and seaweed butter. Ship ahoy! (www.londonshellco.com).

On dry land, tucked away in Soho, the second branch of Bonnie Gull Seafood Shack champions affordable, sustainably sourced British fish and shellfish, caught daily. This intimate new venue has just 23 seats and a buzzing front area where you can perch at the bar to watch the chefs at work in the open-plan kitchen. Like its first branch in Fitzrovia, the menu focuses on small plates for sharing; look out for quirky dishes such as squid toast with ink aioli, and charcoal-grilled monkfish cheek and duck heart skewer (22 Bateman St, W1D 3AN).

Heading west to Chelsea, Chicama also favours the small plates, sharing concept – but that’s where the similarity ends with our other seafood spots. This is all about South American cuisine – popular Peruvian, to be precise – with ceviche the star. Try sea bream ceviche with grilled peach and jalapeño, and squid marinated in garlic and ají panaca. With fish dishes this good, who needs meat? (383 King’s Rd, SW10 0LP)

RICK STEIN © JAMES RAM; LONDON SHELL CO IMAGES COURTESY OF LONDON SHELL CO; BIBENDUM COURTESY OF BIBENDUM

As the celebrity chef Rick Stein launches his first London restaurant, we cast our nets across the city and crack open the oyster shell to find the pearls of the capital’s seafood restaurants, says Emma Levine

THREE OF THE VERY BEST INDIAN RESTAUR ANTS This award winning sophisticated Indian Grill offers intense flavours with an innovative twist, in a theatrical open kitchen setting.

Michelin star.

Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week.

Halkin Arcade, Motcomb Street Knightsbridge, London SW1X 8JT T: 020 7823 1166 E: amaya@realindianfood.com Private dining room seats 14

The rich setting, interesting art and romantic candle lighting are secondary details in London’s haven of great Indian contemporary food.

Open for lunch and dinner from Monday to Saturday.

Saturday Brunch with live jazz music.

73 St James’s Street, London SW1A 1PH T: 020 7629 6688 E: chutneymary@realindianfood.com Two private dining rooms seat 30 and 16

Classical dishes, lovingly prepared and beautifully served in sumptuous surroundings overlooking Regent Street. The oldest Indian restaurant in the world.

Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week.

Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 1st floor 99 Regent Street, London W1B 4RS T: 020 7734 1401 E: veeraswamy@realindianfood.com Private dining room seats 24

FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. B (breakfast), L (lunch), D (dinner). Prices per person for three courses: £: up to £25; ££: £25-£40; £££: £40-80; ££££: £80 +. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on map on p. 88-89

AMERICAS (NORTH & SOUTH) Avenue Contemporary wining and dining in a Manhattan style. £££. Mon-Fri B, L & D; Sat & Sun brunch; Sat D. www.avenue-restaurant.co.uk. 7-9 St James’s St, SW1A 1EE. T: 020-7321 2111. E7. Station: Green Park.

Gaucho Succulent Argentine steaks, plus a wine bar and entertainment. ££££. Daily L & D (and branches). www.gauchorestaurants.co.uk. 25 Swallow St, W1B 4QR. T: 020-7734 4040. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Goodman Premium New York steakhouse with dry-aged US and British beef, plus dishes including lobster with garlic butter. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.good manrestaurants.com. 26 Maddox St, W1S 1QH. T: 020-7499 3776. E6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Hard Rock Cafe London’s original burger joint, more than 40 years old, has plenty of rock memorabilia, funky décor and a fun atmosphere. ££. Daily L & D. www.hardrock.com. 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1LB. T: 020-7514 1700. E8. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Heliot Steak House Hippodrome Casino’s restaurant, over the main gaming floor, serves British classics and USDA beef. £££. Daily L & D. www.hippodromecasino.com.

Leicester Square, 42-43 Cranbourn St, WC2H 7JH. T: 020-7769 8888. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

BRITISH (MODERN) Aqua Shard This slick restaurant on The Shard’s 32nd floor has fantastic views and serves contemporary cuisine using local produce. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.aquashard.co.uk. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-3011 1256. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Butlers Restaurant Enjoy top English cuisine in an elegant Mayfair restaurant, famed for its Dover sole. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.chesterfieldmayfair.com. 35 Charles St, W1J 5EB. T: 020-7491 2622. E6. Station: Green Park.

Caxton Grill Superb selection of steaks cooked in the Josper grill, plus seafood dishes such as lobster with Hollandaise at this stylish venue. ££££. Daily L & D. www.caxtongrill.co.uk. 2 Caxton St, SW1H 0QW. T: 020-7227 7777. F7. Station: St James’s Park.

Cheneston’s

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal The super-chef offers a menu influenced by historic British gastronomy. ££££. Daily L & D; booking essential. www.dinnerbyheston.com. Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, 66 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LA. T: 020-7201 3833. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Fera at Claridge’s Enjoy creative British dishes from local, organic ingredients, served in a beautiful Art Deco restaurant. ££££. Daily L & D. www.claridges. co.uk/fera. Claridge’s Hotel, Brook St, W1K 4HR. T: 020-7107 8888. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Great Court Restaurant Enjoy lunch or afternoon tea above The British Museum’s huge, iconic Reading Room. ££. Daily L; Fri D. www.britishmuseum.org. British Museum, Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8990.

D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Holborn.

Holborn Dining Room

Intimate restaurant serving tasty dishes. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.milestonehotel.com. The Milestone Hotel, 1 Kensington Court, W8 5DL. T: 020-7917 1000. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

This smart brasserie adjoining the Rosewood hotel serves classic British dishes with a twist. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.holborndining room.com.

252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8633.

D8. Station: Holborn.

City Social

Indigo

Jason Atherton’s award-winning restaurant and bar boasts a creative menu and stunning city views. £££.

Mon-Fri L & D; Sat D. www.citysociallondon.com.

Tower 42, 25 Old Broad St, EC2N 1HQ. T: 0207877 7703. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

This popular all-day restaurant serves British dishes that are gluten and dairy-free. ££-£££.

Daily B & D; Mon-Fri L. www.onealdwych.com.

One Aldwych hotel, WC2B 4BZ. T: 020-7300 1000.

E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Lima Michelin-starred contemporary Peruvian cuisine. £££. Tue-Sun L; Daily D. www.limalondon.com.

31 Rathbone Place, W1T 1JH. T: 020-3002 2640.

D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Oblix Sophisticated New York-style rotisserie/grill with stunning views from the 32nd floor of The Shard. £££. Daily L & D. www.oblixrestaurant.com.

31 St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-7268 6700. E10.

Station: London Bridge.

Planet Hollywood This huge London branch has burgers, pizzas and cocktails, plus movie memorabilia. ££. Daily L & D (bar to 1am). www.planethollywood london.com. 57-60 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QX. T: 020-7287 1000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Rainforest Cafe

STK London Dine on British and American prime steaks, with DJs playing nightly. ££££. Daily D. www.stkhouse.com.

ME London Hotel, 336 Strand, WC2R 1HA. T: 020-7395 3450. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

JW Steakhouse Top-quality steakhouse offering dry-aged prime beef with a variety of sides, starters and toppings. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.jwsteakhouse.co.uk.

Grosvenor House Hotel, 86 Park Lane, W1K 7TL. T: 020-7399 8460. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

72 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2017

Latino lover It’s obvious when you enter MNKY HSE (aka Monkey House) that this is a beacon of Mayfair style: a brick-vaulted basement venue with candlelit tables and spotlit, glossy scarlet cacti in black pots. There’s a sculpted, swirling wall behind the DJ playing deep house; opposite is a huge wall of angled, jagged mirrored glass. Chef Pablo Peñalosa Nájera pushes the boundaries of Latin American cuisine. It’s not a mere guacamole but a trio of subtly different flavoured guacamole (smoked, chilli and wasabi), and tacos are created at your table with duck confit and tomatillo sauce. The mezcal cocktails are divine and it’s not long before the DJ plays and the venue morphs into a club.

You’ll certainly be in no rush to say ‘hasta la vista’.

10 Dover St, W1S 4LQ. T: 020-3870 4880. www.mnky-hse.com. E6. Station: Green Park

MNKY HSE COURTESY OF MNKY HSE

Busy all-day diner in a mock rainforest setting with animatronic animals and a familyfriendly menu. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.therain forestcafe.co.uk. 20 Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 7EU. T: 020-7434 3111. E3. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

DINING Rex Whistler Restaurant

Rules

Hakkasan

Dine on dishes such as Gressingham duck breast in Tate Britain’s dining room with its whimsical centuryold mural. ££. Daily L. www.tate.org.uk. Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8825. G8. Station: Pimlico.

Long-established, plush restaurant with hearty dishes like rump steak and rib of beef, where the likes of Charles Dickens used to dine. ££££. Daily L & D. www.rules.co.uk. 35 Maiden Lane, WC2E 7LB. T: 020-7836 5314. E8. Covent Garden.

Stylish, Michelin-starred restaurant serving traditional and fusion dishes. ££££. Daily L & D; Thur-Sat last orders 12.30am. www.hakkasan.com.

8 Hanway Place, W1T 1HF (and Mayfair branch).

T: 020-7927 7000. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Serpentine Bar & Kitchen

Kai Mayfair

St Pancras Grand British brasserie-style dishes in an ornate dining room. ££-£££. Daily B, L & D. www.searcys.co.uk.

Upper Concourse, St Pancras Station, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

BRITISH (TRADITIONAL) Café in the Crypt This vaulted café serves homely English dishes. £.

Mon-Sat B, L & D; Sun 11am-6pm. www.smitf.org.

St Martin-in-the-Fields, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1158. D7. Station: Charing Cross.

Mews of Mayfair This 18th-century converted mews house has a brasserie, lounge and cocktail bar, as well as an historic cobbled courtyard. £££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D. www.mewsofmayfair.com. 10 Lancashire Court, New Bond St, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388. E6.

Station: Bond Street.

Enjoy hearty dishes or a light lunch on a terrace overlooking the Serpentine lake. £. Daily B & L. www.benugo.com/restaurants/serpentine-barkitchen. Serpentine Rd, Hyde Park, W2 2UH. T: 020-7706 8114. E5. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Superior Michelin-starred cuisine with dishes such as Kagoshima Wagyu beef. ££££. Daily L & D. www.kaimayfair.co.uk. 65 South Audley St, W1K 2QU. T: 020-7493 8988. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Royal China Club

Sophie’s Steakhouse & Bar Modern restaurant with steaks and terrine boards, plus a good pre-theatre menu. ££. Daily L & D. www.sophiessteakhouse.co.uk. 29-31 Wellington St, WC2E 7DB (and Chelsea branch). T: 020-7836 8836. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

This huge Cantonese restaurant is popular for its dim sum, served every lunchtime, plus crispy aromatic duck. ££. Daily L & D. www.royalchinagroup.co.uk.

24-26 Baker St, W1U 3BZ (and branches).

T: 020-7487 4688. D6. Station: Baker Street.

CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN

CHINESE Bright Courtyard Club Excellent Cantonese and Shanghai dishes, including dim sum and roast duck. £££. Daily L & D. www.brightcourtyard.co.uk. 43-45 Baker St, W1U 8EW. T: 020-7486 6998. D6. Station: Baker Street.

The Ritz Restaurant

Chai Wu

Enjoy classic British dishes in a pretty dining room, with top-notch food and service to match. Men should wear a jacket and tie. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.theritzlondon.com. The Ritz, 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7300 2370. E6/7. Station: Green Park.

Located in Harrods, this chic restaurant serves dishes such as Wagyu beef, Alaskan king crab and Chilean sea bass. £££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D (until 8pm). www.chaiwu.co.uk. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-3819 8888. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

1 Lombard Street Hearty, modern cooking in this brasserie, a former bank, with a huge glass dome. £££. Mon-Fri B, L & D. www.1lombardstreet.com. 1 Lombard St, EC3V 9AA. T: 020-7929 6611. D10. Station: Bank.

The Delaunay This Theatreland venue’s interior and menu are inspired by central Europe’s grand cafés. ££££.

Daily B, L & D. www.thedelaunay.com. 55 Aldwych, WC2B 4BB. T: 020-7499 8558. E8. Station: Temple.

THE PERFECT CUT Caxton Grill takes choice steaks, juicy burgers and sustainably sourced fish and cooks them to perfection on their Josper Grill.

Quote “Where20” when booking to enjoy 20% off your total bill Expiry date October 2017 Caxton Grill

Victoria Station - 8 min

St. James’s Park - 1 min

Westminster - 8 min

Caxton Grill, 2 Caxton Street, London, SW1H 0QW www.caxtongrill.co.uk

www.wheretraveler.com 73

DINING Galvin at Windows

Poppie’s

Clos Maggiore

Michelin-starred restaurant with great views. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L; Mon-Sat D. www.galvin atwindows.com. Hilton on Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208 4021. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Traditional fish and chip shop with 1950s decor. £. Daily L & D. www.poppiesfishandchips.co.uk.

55 Old Compton St, W1D 6HW. T: 020-7734 4845.

D7. Station: Leicester Square.

Exquisite dining room with dishes such as roast Japanese Wagyu beef. £££. Daily L & D. www.closmaggiore.com. 333 King St, WC2 8JD. T: 020-7379 9696. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

The Ivy

The Sea Shell

Galvin Bistrot de Luxe

This fashionable restaurant is good for a pre- or post-theatre dinner. £££-££££. Daily L & D (last orders midnight). www.the-ivy.co.uk. 1-5 West St, WC2H 9NQ. T: 020-7836 4751. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

Enjoy hearty fish and chips, or pan-seared king scallops. ££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.seashell restaurant.co.uk. 49-51 Lisson Grove, NW1 6UH. T: 020-7224 9000. C5. Station: Marylebone.

OXO Tower

FRENCH

Elegant restaurant on the Thames with stunning views. ££££. Daily L & D. www.oxotower.co.uk.

Oxo Tower Wharf, Barge House St, South Bank, SE1 9PH. T: 020-7803 3888. E9. Station: Waterloo.

Skylon Glamorous dining with river views.

Try dishes such as spiced duck breast with heritage beetroot. ££££. Daily L & D. www.skylon-restaurant. co.uk. Royal Festival Hall, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-7654 7800. E8. Station: Waterloo.

Ting Superb restaurant in The Shard’s Shangri-La serves dishes with an Asian twist, alongside stunning views. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.shangri-la.com/london.

31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8108.

F10. Station: London Bridge.

FISH AND SEAFOOD J Sheekey Chic seafood restaurant with an oyster and Champagne bar, plus seasonal game. Great for people-watching. ££££. Daily L & D. www.j-sheekey. co.uk. 28-35 St Martin’s Court, WC2N 4AL. T: 020-7240 2565. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester Exquisite food from this three-Michelin-starred chef. ££££. Tue-Fri L & D; Sat D. Booking essential. www.alainducasse-dorchester.com. The Dorchester, Park Lane, W1K 1QA. T: 020-7629 8866. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Brasserie Joël This brasserie serves delicious classics such as tuna tartare and steaks. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L & D; daily D. www.brasseriejoel.co.uk. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7272.

F8. Station: Westminster.

Brasserie Zédel Bustling, huge French brasserie with ornate interior, serving excellent-value prix-fixe menus. £-££. Daily L & D. www.brasseriezedel.com.

20 Sherwood St, W1F 7ED. T: 020-7734 4888.

E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Céleste Michelin-starred cuisine in an elegant dining room. £££-££££. Daily B, L & D. www.lanesborough.com.

The Lanesborough, Hyde Park Corner, SW1X 7TA. T: 020-7259 5599. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

This classic Parisian-style bistro has superb service and elegant décor. ££££. Daily L & D. www.galvinrestaurants.com. 66 Baker St, W1U 7DJ. T: 020-7935 4007. D6. Station: Baker Street.

L’Escargot This elegant establishment, London’s oldest French restaurant, serves classic dishes. ££. Mon-Sat L & D; Sun L. www.lescargot.co.uk. 48 Greek St, W1D 4EF. T: 020-7439 7474. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Sketch Stylish brasserie adorned with artwork by David Shrigley, and creative French-European cuisine. ££££. Daily D. www.sketch.uk.com. 9 Conduit St, W1S 2XG. T: 020-7659 4500. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

GASTROPUBS The Grazing Goat All-day dining in a bright dining room, with seasonal dishes such as lamb rump with tomato fregola. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.thegrazinggoat. co.uk. 6 New Quebec St, W1H 7RQ. T: 020-7724 7243. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

The Thomas Cubitt Classic dining room above a traditional bar, serving top-quality British produce. £££. Daily L & D. www.thethomascubitt.co.uk. 44 Elizabeth St, SW1W 9PA. T: 020-7730 6060. G6. Station: Victoria.

The Wells This pub near Hampstead Heath serves seasonal British cuisine. ££. Daily L & D. www.thewells hampstead.co.uk. 30 Well Walk, NW3 1BX. T: 020-7794 3785. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

INDIAN Amaya The Michelin-starred cuisine is full of exotic twists, and has an open-grill kitchen. £££. Daily L & D. www.amaya.biz. Halkin Arcade, Motcomb St, SW1X 8JT. T: 020-7823 1166. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.

Baluchi at the Lalit London This majestic Indian restaurant in the five-star boutique hotel is housed within a Grade II-listed Victorian building. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.the lalit.com. 181 Tooley St, SW1 2JR. T: 020-3765 0000.

E11. Station: London Bridge.

Benares

A discreet entrance guides you into Onodera, a sleek and sexy subterranean Japanese restaurant in Mayfair. Following a £2.5 million renovation, the former teppanyaki eatery reopened in March. What with its Japanese chef and staff, sake sommelier and displays of rice wine, the restaurant feels as authentic as its original branch in Ginza, the Mayfair of Tokyo. Spoil yourself and book your own chef in a private dining room or sit by the open kitchen to watch the chefs prepare sushi, sashimi and tempura. Stand-out dishes include spicy tuna tartare with roasted pine nuts, seared duck breast, and black cod.

15 Bury St, SW1Y 6AL. T: 020-7839 1101. www.onodera-group.com/uk. E7.

Station: Green Park 74 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2017

Chutney Mary Expect a gourmet tour of seven different Indian regions in this glamorous and long-established restaurant. £££. Mon-Fri B, L & D; Sat L & D. www.chutneymary.com. 73 St James’s St, SW1 1PH. T: 020-7629 6688. E7. Station: Green Park.

Gaylord Iconic Indian restaurant serving award-winning sheekh kebabs and Mughal dishes. ££. Daily L & D. www.gaylordlondon.com. 79-81 Mortimer St, W1W 7SJ. T: 020-7580 3615. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

ONODERA COURTESY OF ONODERA

Japanese delights

Michelin-starred chef Atul Kochhar creates modern Indian cuisine in this refined restaurant. ££££.

Mon-Sat L & D; Sun D. www.benaresrestaurant.com.

12a Berkeley Square House, Berkeley Square, W1J 6BS. T: 020-7629 8886. E6. Station: Green Park.

DINING Gymkhana This Michelin-starred venue, with a colonial style, focuses on tandoori and charcoal grills. £££. Daily L & D. www.gymkhanalondon.com. 42 Albemarle St, W1S 4JH. T: 020-3011 5900. E6. Station: Green Park.

Khan’s of Kensington This relaxed restaurant serves a great range of North Indian vegetarian and fish dishes. ££. Daily L & D. www.khansofkensington.co.uk.

3 Harrington Rd, SW7 3ES. T: 020-7584 4114.

G4. Station: South Kensington.

La Porte des Indes Dine in a former Edwardian ballroom for a taste of colonial India, with French-Creole influences. £££. Daily L & D. www.laportedesindes.com.

32 Bryanston St, W1H 7EG. T: 020-7224 0055.

D6. Station: Marble Arch.

ITALIAN

Rossopomodoro

Cicchetti All-day dining venue with small plates of regional specialities to share, including antipasti and pasta. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.sancarlocicchetti.co.uk.

30 Wellington St, WC2E 7BD (and Piccadilly branch).

T: 020-7494 9435. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Quattro Passi This Michelin-starred venue is inspired by southern Italy’s Alamfi coast. Try the raw seafood bar, and king prawn risotto. ££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.quattropassi. co.uk. 34 Dover St, W1S 4NG. T: 020-3096 1444.

E6. Station: Green Park.

Enjoy authentic Neapolitan food in an informal department store setting, with dishes such as burrata on wholewheat focaccia, and arrancini. ££. Daily L & D. www.rossopomodoro.co.uk. John Lewis, 300 Oxford St, W1C 1DX (and branches).

T: 020-7629 7711. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Verdi – Italian Kitchen Dine on fresh Italian classics such as stone-baked pizza with hemp flour or enjoy afternoon tea in this iconic music venue. There’s a live music brunch at weekends. ££. Tue-Sun L & D. www.verdiitalian.com.

Royal Albert Hall, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7070 4401. F4.

Station: South Kensington.

Little India This cosy establishment near the Royal Albert Hall specialises in dishes from Bengal, including fish bhuna. ££. Daily L & D. www.littleindialondon.com.

32 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 020-7584 3476. F4.

Station: Gloucester Road.

A REAL TASTE OF INDIA

Masala Zone In this chain of vibrant restaurants, enjoy great-value Indian street food, plus the flavourpacked grand thali. £. Daily L & D (and branches). www.masalazone.com. 9 Marshall St, W1F 7ER. T: 020-7287 9966. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Memories of India Try authentic flavours from North India, with specialities including spiced lamb. ££. Daily L & D. www.memoriesofindia.com. 18 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 020-7589 6450. G4. Station: Gloucester Road.

Mint Leaf Contemporary Indian dishes are the trademark of this stylish restaurant. Try the grilled prawns with fenugreek. £££. Mon-Fri L; daily D. www.mint leafgroup.com. Suffolk Place, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HX. T: 020-7930 9020. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Tamarind Michelin-starred take on Mughal cuisine is served in a smart Mayfair dining room. £££. Daily L & D. www.tamarindrestaurant.com. 20 Queen St, W1J 5PR. T: 020-7629 3561. E6. Station: Green Park.

Veeraswamy This opulent Michelin-starred restaurant has stylish cuisine. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.veeraswamy.com.

Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 99 Regent St, W1B 4RS. T: 020-7734 1401. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

INTERNATIONAL Bbar Enjoy top-quality meat at this relaxed restaurant and bar, near Buckingham Palace. ££. Daily L & D. www.bbarlondon.com. 43 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7958 7000. F6. Station: Victoria.

The Cavendish This elegant, timeless restaurant serves hearty mains such as rabbit ravioli and wild salmon with tapenade. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.35new cavendish.co.uk. 35 New Cavendish St, W1G 9TR. T: 020-7487 3030. C5. Station: Baker Street.

SushiSamba A fusion of Japanese, Brazilian and Peruvian cuisine at this rooftop terrace. £££. Daily L & D. www.sushi samba.com. 38th Floor, 110 Bishopsgate, EC2N 4AY. T: 020-3640 7330. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

BAYSWATER, 75 BISHOPS BRIDGE RD COVENT GARDEN, 48 FLORAL ST SELFRIDGES 4TH FL, 400 OXFORD ST EARLS COURT, 147 EARLS COURT ROAD

CAMDEN, 25 PARKWAY ISLINGTON, 80 UPPER ST SOHO, 9 MARSHALL ST

M ASA LA ZO N E .CO M

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DINING

JAPANESE & KOREAN Benihana Chefs create griddle-cooked dishes at your table; try the Wagyu beef. £££. Daily L & D. www.benihana. co.uk. 37 Sackville St, W1S 3EH (and branches).

T: 020-7494 2525. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Engawa This elegant Japanese restaurant has tasting menus, plus excellent Kobe beef in different cuts. £££.

Daily L & D. www.engawa.uk. 2 Ham Yard, W1D 7DT. T: 020-7287 5724. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Nobu Sashimi, sushi and tempura from acclaimed Japanese chef Nobu Matsuhisa. The venue has a Michelin star. ££££. Daily L & D. www.nobu restaurants.com. 19 Old Park Lane, W1K 1LB. T: 020-7447 4747. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Roka Mayfair This stylish space with a centrepiece robata grill serves up contemporary Japanese cuisine. £££-££££. Daily L & D. www.rokarestaurant.com.

30 North Audley St, W1K 6ZF (and branches).

T: 020-7305 5644. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

MIDDLE EASTERN, GREEK & TURKISH Elysee A family-run restaurant, opened in 1936, serves delicious Greek dishes, from souvlaki to lamb cutlets. There is also a roof terrace and late licence. £££. Mon-Sat D. www.elyseerestaurant.com.

13 Percy St, W1T 1DP. T: 020-7636 4804. D7.

Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Momo

£££. Daily L & D. www.hispaniola.co.uk. Victoria

Decadent candlelit restaurant with Moroccan décor, serving mezze, couscous and tagines. £££. Daily L & D. www.momoresto.com. 25 Heddon St, W1B 4BH. T: 020-7434 4040. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

SOUTH EAST ASIAN

Nopi

Chi Kitchen

Middle Eastern-inspired food from Yotam Ottolenghi with dishes to share in an informal space. ££-£££.

Daily B & L; Mon-Sat D. www.nopi-restaurant.com.

21-22 Warwick St, W1B 5NE. T: 020-7494 9584. E7.

Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Pan-Asian cuisine in the department store Debenhams; see the chefs at work in an open-plan dining space. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.chikitchen.co.uk. 334-348 Oxford St, W1C 1JG. T: 020-3841 6888. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Yasmeen

Mango Tree

Authentic Lebanese cuisine with excellent mezze, charcoal-grilled meat and vegetarian dishes, with outdoor seating. ££. Daily L & D. www.yasmeen restaurant.com. 1 Blenheim Terrace, NW8 0EH. T: 020-7624 2921. Off map. Station: St John’s Wood.

Elegant fine dining near Buckingham Palace, with cuisine from all regions of Thailand, such as sea bass wrapped in banana leaf. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.mangotree.org.uk. 46 Grosvenor Place, SW1X 7EQ. T: 020-7823 1888. F6. Station: Victoria.

RIVERSIDE

Thai Pot

Bateaux London See London’s sights on a river cruise while dining on modern British cuisine. £££. Daily L & D cruises; Sun jazz with three-course L. www.bateauxlondon.com.

Embankment Pier, WC2N 6NU. T: 020-7695 1800.

E8. Station: Embankment.

The London Showboat Drift down the River Thames while enjoying a four-course dinner. Nightly from £80 per person; booking essential. Departs Westminster Pier 7.45pm. www.citycruises.com. Westminster Pier, SW1A 2JR. T: 020-7740 0400. F8. Station: Westminster.

RS Hispaniola Delightful moored restaurant boat on the Thames serving British dishes such as braised pork belly.

Embankment/Hungerford Bridge, WC2N 5DJ. T: 020-7839 3011. E8. Station: Embankment.

This informal spot offers a huge range of good-value Thai dishes, such as salads and curries. £. Mon-Sat L & D. www.thaipot.biz. 1 Bedfordbury, WC2N 4BP. T: 020-7379 4580. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

SPANISH El Pirata This buzzing Mayfair bar-restaurant serves authentic hot and cold tapas, including grilled king prawns and chorizo. ££-£££. Mon-Fri L & D; Sat D. www.elpirata.co.uk. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AG. T: 020-7491 3810. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Iberica Victoria Traditional dishes are given a modern twist. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.ibericarestaurants.com.

5-6 Zig Zag Building, 68 Victoria St, SW1E 6SQ. T: 020-3327 0200. F7. Station: Victoria.

Moro North Africa meets Spain in this Moorish restaurant, serving seasonal dishes such as charcoal-grilled lamb with rhubarb. £££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D. www.moro.co.uk. 34-36 Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QE. T: 020-7833 8336. Off map. Station: Farringdon.

VEGETARIAN The Gate The latest branch of the veggie restaurant has tasty dishes such as butternut rotolo and grilled halloumi in Indian spices. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.the gaterestaurants.com. 22-24 Seymour Place, W1H 7NL. T: 020-7724 6656. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

Mildreds This comfortable, informal Soho institution has hearty meat-free dishes, such as wild mushroom and ale pie. ££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.mildreds.co.uk.

45 Lexington St, W1F 9AN (and branches). T: 0207494 1634. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

In Turkey, a meyhane is a traditional tavern-like restaurant-bar for feasting and drinking, with mezze – small sharing plates – accompanied by raki (aniseed spirit). Turks say that raki is the key to unlocking secrets. From the earthy streets of Istanbul to London’s Baker Street, Yosma has made the transition superbly. The selection here is packed with flavour: try roasted golden beetroot with olive oil and dill; a dip from red peppers, walnuts and tomatoes; bulgur wheat with pomegranate and mulberries; and a whole sea bass roasted in the Josper grill. And the raki? Well, that’s definitely a secret worth sharing.

50 Baker St, W1U 7BT. T: 020-3019 6282. www.yosma.london. D6. Station: Baker Street 76 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2017

Tibits Help yourself at the buffet counter to crunchy salads, hot dishes and healthy puddings and pay by plate weight. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.tibits.co.uk.

12-14 Heddon St, off Regent St, W1B 4DA. T: 0207758 4110. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Woodlands Tasty cuisine from all over India. Enjoy dishes such as Mysore dosas, hearty thalis and cashew pakoras. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.woodlandsrestaurant.co.uk.

77 Marylebone Lane, W1U 2PS (and branches).

T: 020-7486 3862. D6. Station: Bond Street.

YOSMA © PATRICIA NIVEN

Meyhane magic

118mm x124mm

Authenticity with flair

Time for tea

There is nothing quite typical about good Indian food.

The quality and variety that we serve at the Gaylord Restaurant on Mortimer Street (near Westend and Oxford Street) is enough to draw foodies of all nationalities from miles away. Add to that, the innovative and contemporary food presentation makes a dining experience here stand apart.

The restaurant has been a British Curry Award finalist and has been serving authentic Indian food since 1966!

For the quintessential English experience, stop for an afternoon tea with a twist

VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM With a sumptuous museum like the Victoria and Albert Museum (above), you’d expect its afternoon tea to be equally as tempting, with décor to match. The Gamble Room doesn’t disappoint (one of three delightful dining rooms), with decorative columns and windows with Victorian mottos such as ‘a good cup makes us all young’. Every Sunday, you can dine on authentic Victorian-era delights such as Mrs Beeton’s cucumber sandwiches, Indian ham sandwiches, asparagus and parmesan tart and gooseberry tart.

Cromwell Rd, SW7 2RL. T: 020-7942 2000. www.vam.ac.uk

79-81 Mortimer Street London W1W 7SJ 020 7580 3615 www.gaylordlondon.com

IMAGE COURTESY OF VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM

THE WALLACE COLLECTION At this historic townhouse, with an enviable collection of Old Master paintings, porcelain and suits of armour, the light-filled atrium is an oasis of calm. Settle down under the domed glass ceiling in this relaxing space, dotted with huge potted plants and sculptures, and take the good-value Cornish cream tea with finger sandwiches and homemade cakes and scones.

Hertford House, Manchester Square, W1U 3BN. T: 020-7563 9505. www.wallacecollection.org

Just 5 minutes from Victoria station and opposite the Royal Mews at Buckingham Palace.

Open daily for lunch, dinner, evening cocktails and private events.

THE NATIONAL CAFÉ When you’ve had your fill of Caravaggios, Constables and Canalettos at The National Gallery’s permanent collection, it’s time to take a relaxing break in The National Café.

Recently reopened, it now boasts a sparkling new interior plus a menu from Peyton and Byrne. Its traditional afternoon tea is a fail-safe selection of sandwiches, scones and loose-leaf teas.

Trafalgar Square, WC2 5DN. T: 020-7747 5942. www.nationalgallery.org.uk

43 Buckingham Palace Road, London SW1W 0PP 020 7958 7000 | www.bbarlondon.com

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W H E R E

L O N D O N

P R O M O T I O N

BEST OF LONDON DINING Little India One of the few Indian restaurants owned and managed by a lady. Why not come and try our signature dish ‘Naga Chicken’ – cooked in spices and a naga chilli and tossed dry, as well as this we pride ourselves in traditional home style cooking. Come and enjoy a truly unique and memorable dining experience whilst indulging yourself in the real taste of fine Indian cuisine.

Open 7 days a week – Monday to Saturday, noon till 11.30pm and Sunday noon till 11pm. Dinner reservations are strongly recommended as Little India is really little! Perfectly located near The Royal Albert Hall, Harrods, Kensington Palace and the Natural History Museum.

Cafe in the Courtyard St Martin-in-the-Fields

32 Gloucester Road, SW7 4RB T: 020-7584 3476/020 7589 9315 www.littleindialondon.com Station: Gloucester Road

Take a break from a busy day of sightseeing and enjoy some London sunshine at Café in the Courtyard. This seasonal outdoor café is located in the terrace just behind the church of St Martinin-the-Fields, Trafalgar Square. Open daily from 8am (11am on Saturdays and Sundays), Café in the Courtyard serves a delightful range of hot and cold drinks, pastries, snacks, baguettes, salads and soup throughout the day and in the evening there are scrumptious platters to share and a full wine list. Visit the website for special offers and opening hours.

Café in the Courtyard, St Martin-in-the-Fields, WC2N 4JJ Station: Charing Cross Email: café@smitf.org www.smitf.org

Khans of Kensington Visit Khans of Kensington for delicious, genuine Indian cuisine which a core of devotees have been enjoying for many years.

The restaurant prides itself on its modern take on traditional North Indian cuisine, with mouthwatering dishes such as its famous fish koliwada and lamb chop in honey sauce. The expansive menu covers many dishes, but if you don’t see your personal favourite on the menu, just ask the team of expert chefs and they will be more than happy to set that right. The restaurant is just a minute’s walk from South Kensington tube station.

Mon-Sat noon-11.30pm, Sun noon-11pm.

Memories of India At Memories of India you can explore and experience the many varied tastes of India, with traditional and creative Indian dishes with a twist of ingenuity. Relax and let the team of award-winning chefs take your taste buds on an exotic trip and an unforgettable dining experience. The dishes here contain the finest ingredients in order to create the uncompromising flavours of India. We have a private room for parties and corporate functions.

Mon-Sat noon-11.30pm; Sun noon-11pm.

18 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 020-7589 6450/020-7581 3734. www.memoriesofindia.com.

Station: Gloucester Road.

78 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2017

3 Harrington Rd, SW7 3ES. T: 020-7584 4114. www.khansofkensington.co.uk.

Station: South Kensington

W H ER E

L O N D O N

P R O M O T I O N

BEST OF LONDON DINING Chi Kitchen Chi Kitchen is a contemporary Pan-Asian restaurant offering tasty, colourful and exotic dishes that are both MSG-free and halal. Offering a unique twist to the classic afternoon tea, using pan-Asian flavours and techniques, the new menu is available daily from Monday to Sunday from 3pm-6pm* (*only available for a two-hour turnaround).

The menu includes delicious savoury dishes such as prawn dumpling, taro cake and curry puff as well as a selection of sweet treats like pandan kaya bun and caramel cheesecake alongside a choice of teas or glass of Prosecco.

Mention ‘Where London’ when booking, or bring this voucher along and get exclusive 10 per cent off your afternoon tea price.

El Pirata

Ground Floor Debenhams (Henrietta Place entrance), 334-348 Oxford St, W1C 1JG. T: 020-3841 6888. www.chikitchen.co.uk. Station: Oxford Circus

For more than 20 years, El Pirata has hit the spot as London’s top restaurant for traditional Spanish tapas. Located in the heart of Mayfair, it’s the perfect place for a true taste of the Mediterranean in a chic yet friendly setting. Informal, inexpensive and, above all, authentic – the restaurant uses the finest Spanish produce, including jamón ibérico, to create its classic dishes. Celebrity fans include Brian May and Johnny Depp, and food critics are unanimous in their praise, describing it as a ‘Spanish gem’ (Zagat) with ‘surprisingly good prices’ (Harden’s), and ‘a favourite with Mayfair’s Spanish community and converts to the new Iberian cause’ (Square Meal ).

Mon-Fri noon-11.30pm; Sat 6pm-11.30pm; closed Sun. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AQ. T: 020-7491 3810/7409 1315. www.elpirata.co.uk.

Station: Hyde Park Corner/Green Park

Chai Wu Chai Wu is a contemporary Chinese restaurant, located on the Fifth Floor of the iconic department store, Harrods, in Knightsbridge.

The restaurant design incorporates the five elements of Chinese philosophy: wood, metal, water, earth and fire, creating an elegant, opulent and welcoming dining setting.

The tasty, exotic and colourful dishes reflect the finest of modern Chinese cuisine. The menu consists of small dishes such as black truffle sour soup and Chilean sea bass dumpling with gold leaf, as well as luxurious dishes including Beijing duck and Wagyu steak.

Mon-Sat 12noon-9pm (last orders 8.30pm); Sun 12noon-6pm (last orders 5.15pm).

Mango Tree

Fifth Floor, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-3819 8888. www.chaiwu.co.uk. Station: Knightsbridge

Mango Tree, situated in the heart of Belgravia, offers exquisite Thai cuisine and world-renowned hospitality in a modern and stylish setting.

It uses only the finest ingredients sourced from the best suppliers.

Enjoy genuine Thai dishes from the four main culinary regions: rich and mild dishes from the north; spicy food from the east; mild, Chinese-style dishes from the central region, and hot and spicy food from the south.

Mention Where London when booking, and enjoy a complimentary glass of Champagne with any main meal at Mango Tree Belgravia.

Monday-Wednesday 12noon-3pm, 6pm-11pm; Sat 12noon-2.30pm, 6pm-11.30pm; Sun 12noon-10.30pm.

46 Grosvenor Place, SW1X 7EQ. Station:Victoria/Hyde Park Corner.

Also in Harrods: 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7823 1888. www.mangotree.org.uk.

Twitter @MangoTreeLondon. Email: info@mangotree.org.uk

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NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE Clockwise from this image: Rumpus This image: Holborn Dining Room’s Gin Bar Below: a cocktail The Distillery Room; Queenat Elizabeth Hall Roof

Garden; Spritz Garden Rooftop; spritzers at Spritz Garden Rooftop

Time for a sundowner An undisputed meteorological factor for London is its lengthy summer evenings, where sunsets can last for hours until the sky is a muddled easel of deep pink and orange. To pay homage to our summer nights, we’ve rounded up a small, eclectic selection of bars to head to for that elusive sundowner – whether it’s to end the day or to kick off the evening in style.

River views are always a bonus, which the stylish Rumpus Room (20 Upper Ground, SE1 9PD) has in spades. The rooftop bar, on top of Mondrian London boutique hotel, enjoys a prime position overlooking the Thames. Stretch up from your plush sofa and tear your eyes away from the British/American-inspired cocktails to feast your eyes on St Paul’s Cathedral and its 21st-century landmark rivals such as the ‘Gherkin’ (40 St Mary Axe) and the ‘Cheesegrater’ (The Leadenhall Building). There’s live music (Wed) and DJs (Thur-Sat), too.

What to drink: East India Elixir (a gin cocktail).

Who goes: A style-conscious party crowd.

80 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2017

Take a short stroll along the river and you’ll arrive at Queen Elizabeth Hall Roof Garden (Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX), sitting on top of the Brutalist Queen Elizabeth Hall in the Southbank Centre – where ‘concrete’ really does meet ‘jungle’. Forget pastel-coloured sofas, as this is all about mismatched garden furniture, fruit trees, allotments and wild flowers, with tucked-away grassy spaces where you can enjoy a cold beer while you gaze at the London Eye. What to drink: A bottle of beer.

Who goes: Young professionals and theatre-goers.

If you want to be spoilt for choice, then head to Pergola Paddington Central (5 Kingdom St, W2 6PY). This vast alfresco bar-restaurant complex has two levels of bars and a handful of self-service restaurant kiosks. It has bags of colour and a lively atmosphere, with views of the revamped industrial surroundings of Paddington. Fancy taking the weight off your feet? Then recline on a day bed.

What to drink: A glass of chilled rosé.

Who goes: People-watchers.

If you think that small is beautiful, you could head to the bijou Bird of Smithfield.

The Spritz Garden Rooftop is at the top of an elegant five-storey Georgian townhouse in the heart of the City, overlooking the pale green domes of Smithfield Market. Catch the beautiful evening aroma of jasmine trees as you sample the unique array of spritzers.

What to drink: Cocktails and spritzers, such as honeysuckle fizz with honeyed Belvedere vodka, turmeric root, fresh plum and lemon.

Who goes: Londoners and those in the know.

SPRITZERS AND SPRITZ GARDEN ROOFTOP COURTESY OF BIRD OF SMITHFIELD; RUMPUS ROOM COURTESY OF MONDRIAN LONDON; QUEEN ELIZABETH HALL ROOF GARDEN © INDIA ROPER-EVANS

Emma Levine raises a glass to London’s long summer evenings, and searches out places where you can enjoy a sundowner drink or two and watch the sun set over the city

FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

Most bars are open 11am-11pm, most nightclubs are open 10pm-3am. The UK’s legal drinking age is 18. ID may be required. T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, Railway and Docklands Light Railway. References near end of listings (A1 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 88-89

TRADITIONAL PUBS The Blackfriar This Grade II-listed Art Nouveau pub, which opened more than 100 years ago, offers cask ales. www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk. 174 Queen Victoria St, EC4V 4EG. T: 020-7236 5474. E9.

Station: Blackfriars.

Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese

Booking Office Bar

This landmark pub has wood-panelled walls and vaults that are thought to date back to a 13th-century Carmelite monastery which once stood here. 145 Fleet St, EC4A 2BU. T: 020-7353 6170. D9. Station: Blackfriars.

The ground floor of the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel has a 29m-long bar surrounded by cavernous arched ceilings, and stone walls dating back to 1873.

Tasty bar snacks. www.bookingofficebar.com.

Euston Rd, NW1 2AR. T: 020-7841 3566. C7.

Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

BARS & CLUBS

Cittie of Yorke

The Back Room

The dark nooks and crannies, rafted roof and chimney-less fire in this Grade II-listed building take you back to 1430. Enjoy a pint in the traditional pub for a real taste of historic London.

22 High Holborn, WC1 6BN. T: 020-7242 7670. D9.

Station: Chancery Lane.

Next to Hard Rock, the bar boasts vintage and iconic music items, including a door from the Apple Studios signed by The Beatles. Enjoy cocktails, pizzas and a great vibe. www.hardrock.com.

148b Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 020-7514 1700.

E6. Station: Green Park.

The Dog and Duck

68 & Boston

A real-ale pub with regularly changing cask beers, as well as pub food and bar snacks. www.nicholsons pubs.co.uk. 18 Bateman St, W1D 3AJ. T: 020-7494 0697. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The Flask This 17th-century pub boasts Byron and Shelley as past patrons and is allegedly haunted. www.the flaskhighgate.com. 77 Highgate West Hill, N6 6BU. T: 020-8348 7346. Off map. Station: Highgate.

The French House No music, TV or mobile phones make this cosy Soho pub a real gem. www.frenchhousesoho.com.

49 Dean St, W1D 5BG. T: 020-7437 2477. D7.

Station: Tottenham Court Rd.

The George Inn This historic pub was established during the medieval period and still retains its original coaching houses. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ george-inn. 75-77 Borough High St, SE1 1NH. T: 020-7407 2056. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Sophisticated Soho venue with separate cocktail and wine bars. The ground-floor bar boasts wine from lesser-known regions, including Uruguay, and all bottles are just £20. Nightly food menu. www.68andboston.com. 5 Greek St, W1D 4DD. T: 020-7287 3713. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

The Bar at Bellamy’s Classic cocktails and wines are served in a classic setting that’s decorated with vintage ski posters. www.bellamysrestaurant.co.uk.

18/18a Bruton Place, W1J 6LY. T: 020-7491 2727.

E6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Baranis A taste of Provence in London, this chic bar has a grand vaulted cellar full of fine French wines and pastis, plus the UK’s only indoor pétanque court. www.baranis.co.uk. 115 Chancery Lane, WC2 1PP. T: 020-7242 8373. D9. Station: Chancery Lane.

Burlock Rum is definitely the spirit of choice in this relaxed bar that specialises in many types of cocktails using the Caribbean spirit and unusual ingredients. www.burlocklondon.co.uk. 31 Duke St, W1U 1LG. T: 020-7935 3303. D6. Station: Bond Street.

BYOC At ‘Bring Your Own Cocktail’ pay £25, bring a spirit of your choice and the mixologist will create your drink. Booking is advisable. www.byoc.co.uk. 9-11 Basement, Camden High St, NW1 7JE. T: 020-3441 2424. Off map. Station: Mornington Crescent.

Cartizze Bar Timeless, luxury Bellini and cocktail destination in Mayfair, with Art Deco oak panelling and leather-topped bar stools. Enjoy the excellent service and good bar menu. www.cartizzebar.com.

4 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388. E6.

Station: Bond Street.

City Social Jason Atherton offers spectacular food and drink surrounded by breathtaking views of London.

The bar has an impressive Art Deco interior and a Prohibition-inspired cocktail list. There’s also an adjoining restaurant. www.citysociallondon.com.

Tower 42, 25 Old Broad St, EC2N 1HQ. T: 020-7877 7703. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

Top Pick

The Guinea Site of an inn since 1423, this was where wealthy Mayfair’s stable hands and servants used to drink. www.theguinea.co.uk. 30 Bruton Place, W1J 6NL. T: 020-7409 1728. E6. Station: Bond Street.

The Magpie & Stump This pub, opposite the Old Bailey, dates back to the 1500s, and once doubled up as a public viewing spot for hangings at Newgate Prison. www.magpieandstump.com. 18 Old Bailey, EC4M 7EP. T: 020-7248 5085. B8. Station: St Paul’s.

The Punchbowl The popular Mayfair-based pub-restaurant was once owned by film director Guy Ritchie. Enjoy a variety of ales in the unique, classy surroundings. www.punchbowllondon.com. 41 Farm St, W1J 5RP. T: 0207-493 6841. E6. Station: Green Park.

MADDOX © PAUL KHERA

The Spaniards Inn Follow in the footsteps of past regulars including highwayman Dick Turpin and the novelist Charles Dickens at this historic pub, which is one of the oldest in London. www.thespaniardshampstead. co.uk. Spaniards Rd, NW3 7JJ. T: 020-8731 8406.

Off map. Station: Hampstead.

Waxy O’Connor’s Long-standing, huge Irish bar, comprising four bars over six levels. It shows Ireland’s major sporting events on big screens. www.waxy oconnors.co.uk. 14-16 Rubert St, W1D 6DD. T: 020-7287 0255. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Dance the night away If you want your night out to combine Mayfair style, decent Italian dining and dancing until dawn, visit Maddox Club. This bar-club-restaurant, now celebrating its 10th year as an exclusive nightlife fixture, even has a plush VIP ‘green room’, open way past the witching hour. In the main club, a bijou space on two levels with curved banquettes, top DJs play house music – and it won’t be long before you’re jostling for space and dancing the night away. It’s a members-only club, but you can call ahead to request to be added to the guest list and also to dine; dress to impress and you’ll fit right in. Entry charge is £20.

3-5 Mill St, W1S 2AU. T: 020-7629 8877. www.maddoxclub.com.

E7. Station: Oxford Circus www.wheretraveler.com 81

NIGHTLIFE C.O.L.D Bar (The City of London Distillery) A wonderful well-stocked, retro-styled cocktail bar that overlooks the striking copper stills of the distillery. Tastings, classes and tours, including an Evolution of Gin tour, are available. www.cityof londondistillery.com. 22-24 Bride Lane, EC4Y 8DT. T: 020-7936 3446. D9. Station: Blackfriars.

Dirty Martini With deluxe banquettes and a quirky layout, this cocktail bar is a hit with its extensive list of martinis.

Mon-Sat 4pm-late. Multiple branches. www.dirty martini.uk.com. 10c Hanover Square, W1S 1JH. T: 020-7632 2087. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

The Dolls House

Hixter Bankside

Scarfes Bar

Restaurateur Mark Hix’s bar shows his trademark interest in modern art – see an installation by Helen Chadwick that replicates a London Tube carriage. www.hixrestaurants.co.uk. 16 Great Guildford St, SE1 0HS. T: 020-7921 9508. E9. Station: Southwark.

Part of the luxury hotel Rosewood London, this bar is named after Gerald Scarfe, the cartoonist famous for his satirical illustrations. Enjoy Indian-inspired snacks. www.scarfesbar.com. 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8611. D8. Station: Holborn.

Mahiki

Six Storeys

This glitzy tiki haunt is a real draw for celebrities.

The Polynesian-themed club offers classic and fresh fruit cocktails and special creations to share, including Treasure Chest and Honolulu Honey. www.mahiki.com. 1 Dover St, W1S 4LD. T: 020-7493 9529. E7. Station: Green Park.

Bohemian, decadent bar in a Soho townhouse, split over six levels. Creative cocktails are its speciality. www.sixstoreys.com. 11 Soho Square, W1D 3QE. T: 020-3504 7381. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The Met Bar

Acclaimed restaurateur Jason Atherton’s stylish wine bar and restaurant with counter and tableserved tapas. All the waiters are sommeliers and there is a magnificent wine shop upstairs. www.jasonatherton.co.uk. 39 James St, W1U 1DL. T: 020-7993 3257. D6. Station: Bond Street.

This stylish cocktail bar and private members’ club offers mixed drinks in The Parlour on the ground floor, with weekly jazz nights. www.thedead dollsclub.com. 181 Upper St, N1 1RQ. T: 020-7288 1470. D7. Station: Highbury & Islington.

With a suave Mayfair setting, it’s a fresh, stylish look for this famous bar in the Metropolitan Hotel.

Extensive wine list, vintage Champagne by the glass and cocktails, plus a British food menu. www.metbar. co.uk. 19 Old Park Lane, W1K 1LB. T: 020-7447 1000.

Off map. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

The Draft House

The Nightjar

Find fabulous draft beers from around the world at this friendly bar. Measures come in one-third pint glasses (and larger), perfect for discovering your favourite. www.drafthouse.co.uk. 206-208 Tower Bridge Rd, SE1 2UP. T: 020-7378 9995. E11.

Station: London Bridge/Tower Hill.

Old-school glamour and Prohibition-era cocktails are the signature of this new basement hangout in Shoreditch. Live music from the jazz golden age adds a touch of style. www.barnightjar.com.

129 City Rd, EC1V 1JB. T: 020-7253 4101. C10.

Station: Old Street.

Drakes Tabanco

Old Bengal Bar

A Spanish-style bar that serves rare sherries which have been aged in ancient oak barrels – enjoy a self-poured tipple straight from the barrel. There are also craft beers, a range of natural wines and tapas. www.drakestabanco.com. 3 Windmill St, W1T 2HY. T: 020-7637 9388. D7. Station: Goodge Street.

The Drift All aboard this chic, relaxing oasis in the heart of the City. Its industrial-style décor has ocean-inspired touches, while the bar serves punch bowls and cocktails. www.thedriftbar. co.uk. Heron Tower, 110 Bishopsgate, EC2N 4AY. T: 0845-468 0103. D10.

Station: Barbican.

Freedom This gay-friendly venue attracts a trendy crowd to its stylish cocktail bar and nightclub. www.freedom barsoho.com. 60-66 Wardour St, W1F 0TA. T: 020-7734 0071. D7.

Station: Tottenham Court Road.

One New Change Champagne Bar Superbly located near St Paul’s Cathedral, this stunning bar boasts a huge selection of bubbly, plus Champagne cocktails and premium beers (various branches around London). www.searcys champagnebars.co.uk. 1f One New Change, EC4M 9AF. T: 020-7871 1213.

D10. Station: St Paul’s.

John Keats wrote his poem Ode to a Nightingale in The Spaniards Inn in Hampstead

Gong Located in The Shard, Gong is the highest Champagne bar in London and the ideal place for sunset cocktails and late-night drinks. www.shangri-la.com. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8000. F10. Station: London Bridge.

Good Godfreys Old-style glamour and classic cocktails are served with a hint of history at this suave establishment.

Try signature cocktails including the Astor Hip Flask. www.waldorfhilton.co.uk. The Waldorf Hilton, Aldwych, WC2B 4DD. T: 020-7836 2400.

E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Gordon’s Wine Bar London’s oldest wine bar has been uncorking bottles from around the world since 1890 in its stone-walled basement. Hugely popular, so a seat is a real bonus. Well-priced pub food, including cheese plates. www.gordonswine bar.com. 47 Villiers St, WC2N 6NE. T: 020-7930 1408.

E8. Station: Embankment/Charing Cross.

82 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2017

Converted from a former East India Co warehouse, this venue boasts an atmospheric dark interior, with original brick walls and wooden beams, stylish leather banquettes and classy cocktails. www.oldbengalbar.com. 16 New St, EC2M 4TR. T: 020-3503 0780. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

Opium Cocktail Bar

This stylish upstairs bar tucked away in Chinatown, in the style of an old Shanghai bar, serves innovative Chinese-inspired cocktails. Booking highly recommended. www.opium chinatown.com. 15 Gerrard St, W1D 6JE. T: 020-7734 7276. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Oriole Spacious cocktail bar hidden beneath Smithfield Market, with live jazz and blues most nights.

Beautiful interiors, and drinks inspired by the Old World, New World and Orient. www.oriolebar.com.

Smithfield Markets, East Poultry Avenue, EC1A 9LH. T: 020-3457 8099. D9. Station: Farringdon.

Primo Bar

Social Wine & Tapas

St Pancras Champagne Bar Europe’s longest Champagne bar takes pride of place in the graceful station where the Paris Eurostar arrives. There are leather banquettes and call buttons to summon a waiter to refill your glasses.

Fabulous selection of bubbly plus fresh seafood platters from this Searcys outlet. www.searcys champagnebars.co.uk. St Pancras International, Upper Concourse, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross.

Trader Vic’s This Tiki-style basement bar and restaurant is more than 50 years old. The menu has rum-laced cocktails − try the Mai Tai cocktail in this exotic setting. www.tradervicslondon.com. London Hilton on Park Lane, 22 Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208 4113. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Trader’s Wine Bar Sample wines from around the globe, paired with boards of cured meats and cheeses, in this intimate venue. www.traderswine.co.uk. Ivory House, Central Basin, St Katharine Docks, E1W 1AT. T: 020-7481 3796. Off map. Station: Tower Hill.

The Zetter Townhouse Tony Conigliaro, known for his groundbreaking cocktails, brings his mixology magic to this intimate cocktail lounge. www.thezettertownhouse.com.

49-50 St. John’s Square, EC1V 4JJ. T: 020-7324 4545. Off map. Station: Farringdon.

CASINOS Aspers Casino Poker, slot machines and table games, with great views of the Olympic Stadium from the Sky Bar at this 24-hour venue. www.aspersstratford.co.uk. Westfield Stratford City, Montifichet Rd, Olympic Park, E20 1EJ. T: 020-8536 5630. Off map. Station: Stratford.

The Casino at the Empire

Sumptuous, modern cocktail bar with live music and afternoon tea, plus a VIP area with river views.

Try the Asian-inspired cocktails. www.primobar. co.uk. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7282. F8. Station: Waterloo.

There is a dedicated poker room and the latest table and electronic games at this spectacular venue, housing a contemporary Asian restaurant and several bars. www.thecasinolsq.com.

5-6 Leicester Square, WC2H 7NA. T: 020-3733 1315. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Reverend J W Simpson

Grosvenor Gloucester Casino

This cocktail bar is a real slice of ‘shabby chic’ – and is the genuine ex-abode of the good Reverend, proved by the blue plaque outside.

Scruffy sofas and a laid-back vibe are its hallmark. www.revjwsimpson.com. 32 Goodge St, W1T 2QJ. T: 020-3174 1155. E7. Station: Goodge Street.

A vibrant and friendly casino offering a wide choice of gaming facilities, plus a late-night bar and relaxed restaurant. Open 24 hours. www.grosvenorcasinos.com. 4-18 Harrington Gardens, SW7 4LJ. T: 020-7373 7134. G4.

Station: Gloucester Road.

NIGHTLIFE Hippodrome Casino

London Cabaret Club

This landmark venue has fabulous gaming on three floors, plus the 150-seat Heliot Steak House. Food is served around the clock. Late Jazz Jam every Thur from 11pm. www.hippo dromecasino.com. Cranbourn St, off Leicester Square, WC2H 7JH. T: 020-7769 8888. E7.

Station: Leicester Square.

Cabaret gets a modern twist at this unique club within the Bloomsbury Ballroom. ‘Best of British Pop’ is packed with chart-toppers from the 1960s to the present day, fusing dance, acrobatics and theatre on stage. Dinner and VIP tickets available. www.thelondoncabaretclub.com. Victoria House, Bloomsbury Square, WC1B 4DA. T: 020-7242 0002.

D8. Station: Holborn.

The Sportsman Casino This club combines the best in traditional and electronic gaming, informal dining, a sophisticated poker lounge, a sports bar and an elegant restaurant. Smart dress; complimentary membership. www.thesportsmancasino.com.

Old Quebec St, W1H 7AF. T: 020-3642 8531. D6.

Station: Marble Arch.

Ronnie Scott’s The world-famous jazz venue has hosted top musicians for more than 50 years including Ella Fitzgerald, Prince and Miles Davis). The venue also includes a bar and restaurant. The weekly

Sunday Jazz lunch has no minimum age, which makes it good for families. Live acts every night, plus Sat and Sun lunchtimes. Look out for more intimate gigs upstairs every Wed. Reservations highly recommended. www.ronniescotts.co.uk.

47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7.

Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Stringfellows Gentleman’s Club Over the years, celebrities and the public have enjoyed a memorable evening of entertainment supplied by ‘Angels’ dancing at their tables.

Free entry when dining. www.stringfellows.com.

16-19 Upper St Martin’s Lane, WC2H 9EF. T: 020-7240 5534. E8. Station: Leicester Square.

LIVE ENTERTAINMENT The 100 Club Famous basement live music venue with diverse performers who, in the past, have included The Rolling Stones, Muddy Waters and Paul Weller. The emphasis today is on rock and blues bands, with DJ nights. www.the100club.co.uk.

100 Oxford St, W1D 1LL. T: 020-7636 0933. D7.

Station: Tottenham Court Rd.

606 Club A relaxed members’ jazz cellar and restaurant, which has been run by musician Steve Rubie for more than 30 years. The venue specialises in British-based artists, playing blues, r’n’b and soul. There is also a restaurant that serves modern British food. www.606club.co.uk. 90 Lots Rd, SW10 0QD. T: 020-7352 5953. Off map.

Station: Fulham Broadway.

The Blues Kitchen This busy music venue stages blues, soul and jazz music most nights, plus a DJ at weekends.

There are more than 80 varieties of bourbon and rye, plus Cajun comfort food on offer. www.theblueskitchen.com. 111 Camden High St, NW1 7JN. T: 020-7387 5277. Off map.

Station: Camden Town.

Bunga Bunga Part restaurant, part bar and with lots of live entertainment, this Covent Garden venue has all the makings of a theatrical night out. Enjoy Italian cuisine as you watch the live cabaret acts.

If you are with a group, ask for the Disaronno Boat, which is shaped like a speedboat and seats up to 10 guests. www.bungabunga-london.com.

167 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PG. T: 020-7590 3602.

D8. Station: Holborn.

The Comedy Store One of the country’s best and most famous venues for stand-up and improvised comedy, where many of Britain’s comedians made their mark. The Comedy Store Players (Sun) sees the likes of Paul Merton and Neil Mullarkey, plus there are regular stand-up nights and late-night shows. www.the comedystore.co.uk. 1a Oxendon St, SW1Y 4EE. T: 0844-871 7699. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Forge This award-winning bijou acoustic venue behind the Foundry restaurant enjoys a variety of live music most nights, ranging from classical and folk to traditional Indian and jazz. The upstairs restaurant serves Latin American street food. www.forge venue.org. 3-7 Delancey St, NW1 7NL. T: 020-7383 7808. Off map. Station: Camden Town. www.wheretraveler.com 83

WELLBEING | THE GUIDE Clockwise from top left: marocMaroc in Harrods; Akasha; marocMaroc in Harrods

How to hammam Entering a hammam for the first time can be an intimidating experience: ‘Am I in the women’s only area? Do I have the right clothes? Should I even be wearing clothes?’

Put aside any nerves, as London’s hammams are ready to welcome you – there are some truly regal spaces that take you away from the hustle and bustle of the capital and into a paradise inspired by Morocco and Turkey.

The oldest known Moroccan hammam dates back to the late-eighth century. It was during the Ottoman Empire that many hammams were built as a public bath as no one had running water. While it’s similar to Turkish and Roman baths, the focus here is on water.

The hammam is a part of Moroccan life, but it wasn’t until the Victorian era that the baths became popular in London.

A hammam is a heated tiled room with marble slabs; you lie on the slabs and are scrubbed, massaged and cleaned with hot water. Some hammams have women’s, men’s or mixed days or gender-specific areas. In Morocco, nudity is 84 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2017

normal. In London, spa etiquette varies: it is common to wear a swimming costume in mixed hammams, or disposable underwear in single-sex hammams. In most spas the kessala (therapist) is the same sex as you, and trained in draping techniques to cover your body.

One of this year’s most stylish hotel openings is The Ned. This sumptuous new offering from Soho House contains Ned’s Club Relax for hotel guests and members. Home to the largest Moroccan hammam in London, the menu mixes Eastern techniques with a Western lifestyle – the fastest treatment is the Speedy Hammam (30 min; £50). (27 Poultry, EC2R 8AJ) One of the city’s most luxurious hammams is in the landmark department store, Harrods.

The Moroccan spa marocMaroc is in Urban Retreat (p. 85). Women-only days are Monday and Tuesday (10am-4pm), Wednesday, Friday and Saturday; during mixed and men’s sessions, guests must wear swimwear.

Many of the treatments begin with black soap rubbed over your body – this was soap

favoured by Cleopatra and Queen of Sheba.

A kessa glove is then used to exfoliate dead skin and bacteria and open up the pores to stimulate the lymph and circulatory systems.

While scalp and hair washing can be added, every ritual ends with a stretching exercise to alleviate tension.

The Spa at Dolphin Square (p. 85) offers an authentic experience with its hammam and steam rooms infused with salt and rhassoul (natural mineral clay from the Atlas Mountains of Morocco). In the Rhassoul Ritual, lava clay is applied to your body in a heated room, so that the steam can let the clay work – it leaves you with exceptionally smooth skin (40 min; £45).

As for Hotel Café Royal’s opulent spa – Akasha – it has an 18m-long pool, sauna and private hammam. The 23 Carat Gold treatment includes a back massage with melted shea butter and oil that is steeped in gold minerals – the melting techniques help to relax the muscles (75 min; £140).

(50 Regent St, W1B 5AS)

MAROCMAROC IMAGES COURTESY OF URBAN RETREAT AT HARRODS; AKASHA © MICHAEL FRANKE

As The Ned hotel opens up London’s largest hammam, Kohinoor Sahota finds out how this Moroccan experience can be enjoyed across different venues, from the luxury of Harrods to the authenticity of The Spa at Dolphin Square

FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway.

References at the end of listings (A1 etc.) refer to coordinates on map p. 88-89

SPAS Aveda Institute This three-storey salon offers cuts, colour, blow-dries and botanical treatments using Aveda’s plant-based products. The Express Beauty Bar has treatments lasting 15 and 30 minutes. www.aveda institute.co.uk. 174 High Holborn, WC1V 7AA. T: 020-7759 7355. D8. Station: Holborn.

Bamford Haybarn Spa Loved by celebrities, treatments have a holistic approach to wellbeing, and use botanical products. There is also a rooftop pool and secret garden. www.the-berkeley.co.uk.

The Berkeley hotel, Wilton Place, SW1X 7RL. T: 020-7201 1699. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.

Blue Harbour Health Club & Spa This exclusive members-only spa offers day passes for £25. Swim in the 17m pool, use the fitness equipment or visit the Figaro Hair Salon.

There are treatment rooms for disabled visitors. www.blueharbourspa.co.uk. Chelsea Harbour Drive, SW10 0XG. T: 020-7300 5011. Off map.

Station: Imperial Wharf.

Elemis Day Spa This spa specialises in facials that tackle ageing, pigmentation and blemishes. In The Penthouse, a private suite, you can share the experience with your guest while sipping Champagne. The Speed Spa offers treatments in 30 minutes. www.elemis. com/dayspa. 2 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EX. T: 0207499 4995. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Jurlique Founded by Dr Jürgen Klein, a biochemist, and his wife Ulrike, a botanist, this spa uses their natural skincare range. Treatments include an anti-stress facial, which eases tension in your face, neck and shoulders. www.jurlique.co.uk. 489 Oxford St, W1C 2AU. T: 0800-040 7685. D8. Station: Bond Street.

Mandara Spa This spa has an Asian touch: the décor includes a bamboo forest, Mondrian paintings and Japanese shoji screens. Try the warm bamboo massage, where bamboo stalks are used on your body. www.mandara spa.com. Park Plaza, 200 Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7300. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Mandarin Oriental A luxury spa inspired by Chinese massage methods. Facilities include a 17m pool and gym. Book a session with trainer Ruben Tabares – sessions can be held in Hyde Park. www.mandarin oriental.com. 66 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LA. T: 020-7235 2000. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

One Aldwych This spa offers a range of treatments including massages, manicures and waxing. Brands used are Natura Bissé and Oskia. The health club is excellent, while the pool is chlorine-free and has underwater music. www.onealdwych.com.

One Aldwych, WC2B 4BZ. T: 020-7300 0600.

D8. Station: Covent Garden.

The Refinery This men-only spa has treatments ranging from a traditional shave to sports massage.

If you want to master a wet shave, you can book a Principles of Shaving lesson. Also available at Harrods. www.the-refinery.com. 60 Brook St, W1K 5DU. T: 020-7409 2001. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Rocco Forte at Brown’s Hotel An oasis of calm in the West End that boasts a 24-hour gym and luxury treatments including a gold age-defying facial and carat diamond face and body rituals. There are also treatments for two. www.brownshotel.com. Albemarle St, W1S 4BP. T: 020-7518 4009. E7. Station: Green Park.

The Spa at Dolphin Square Moroccan-inspired luxury. Signature massages include the Moroccan Majorelle and Arabian Ceremony. Treatments can be combined with a hammam (p. 84). www.dolphinsquare.co.uk/spa.

Chichester St, SW1V 3LX. T: 020-7798 6767.

Off map. Station: Pimlico.

Spa Illuminata This spa’s menu includes facials, massages and options for men. Anti-ageing treatments include anti-wrinkle injections and skin peels. www.spailluminata.com. 63 South Audley St, W1K 2QS. T: 020-7499 7777. E6. Station: Marble Arch.

AVENA MASSAGE by qualified female masseuse.

Total relaxation, revitalising massage.

Please call to book an appointment at your hotel, home or our studio on:

07879 697478

Urban Retreat at Harrods This is one of the few places in London that offers paraffin wax baths. Special services include weaves, extensions, wig creation and cutting. There’s a hammam, too (p. 84). www.urbanretreat.co.uk.

Fifth floor, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7893 8333. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Ushvani Plush spa with a philosophy that is based on ancient Asian culture and takes a holistic approach to pampering. Treatments include a Malay massage and Balinese massage, which incorporate herbs and spices. www.ushvani.com.

1 Cadogan Gardens, SW3 2RJ. T: 020-7730 2888.

G5. Station: Sloane Square.

Late appointments available

SALONS Gentlemen’s Tonic This is a stylish men-only grooming establishment with a barbershop, body and hair treatments and a full range of products. www.gentlemenstonic.com.

31a Bruton Place, W1J 6NN. T: 020-7297 4343. E6.

Station: Bond Street.

Geo F Trumper A traditional barbershop in Mayfair, which offers wet shaves, manicures and hair cuts for an elegant result. www.trumpers.com. 9 Curzon St, W1J 5HQ. T: 020-7499 1850. E6. Station: Green Park.

Hershesons Blow Dry Bar At this trendy hairdresser to the stars, you can ask for your favourite fashion-forward look from a menu and a stylist will create it in 30 minutes. www.hershesons.com. Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 020-7493 1600. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Jo Hansford This hair-colour salon, which is home to top stylists, is renowned for its colour correction work.

The salon also has an in-house chef. www.jo hansford.com. 48 South Audley St, W1K 2QB. T: 020-7495 7774. E6. Station: Marble Arch.

Windle & Moodie An award-winning hair salon, which specialises in upfront catwalk looks. The 20-minute Speed Styling service includes updos. www.windleand moodie.com. 41-45 Shorts Gardens, WC2H 9AP. T: 020-7497 2393. D8. Station: Covent Garden. www.wheretraveler.com 85

ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE TICKET INFORMATION Oyster cards & Travelcards An Oyster card is a pre-paid travel smart card.

It’s a cheap way to pay for single journeys by bus, Tube, tram, DLR, London Overground and most National Rail train services in London.

You can buy a Visitor Oyster card before you leave home for a £3 fee and pre-load it with credit at www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk. The system has nine zones. Zone 1 is in central London.

Visitors can buy Oyster cards and Day Travelcards from stations, Visitor Centres and any Oyster Ticket Shop. UK visitors can also pay for their travel with a UK-issued contactless payment card. See www.tfl.gov.uk/visitinglondon.

An Oyster card also gives you a 25 per cent discount on London’s cable car, the Emirates Air Line, and a 10 per cent discount on single journeys on most MBNA Thames Clippers river buses.

For more info, visit www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk.

GETTING AROUND For 24-hour travel information, visit the Transport for London (TfL) website. www.tfl.gov.uk/ visitinglondon or call T: 0343-222 1234.

AT YOUR SERVICE Concierges in the capital use Where London for information, and they are always reliable experts in their own right Ricky Barlow, head concierge at Grosvenor House, A JW Marriott Hotel, shares his top tips What are your guests’ most popular requests?

That would be a request for me to make a dinner reservation. With London’s vibrant restaurant scene, we now have guests who come to London just for the food.

Once, though, I was asked to source an engine generator for a private jet after a guest’s flight was cancelled. I found a jet engineer and the guest left happy and on time.

Why is your hotel special?

Our hotel restaurant, JW Steakhouse, serves ‘the best cheesecake this side of the pond’. It has gained cult status now.

What about repeat visitors?

The Wallace Collection, an art collection in the former home of the Seymour family, seems to go under radar.

86 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2017

What are your favourite hidden gems in the city?

The garden of St John’s Lodge in Regent’s Park is a real secret garden. Shhh!

It has fine and decorative arts from the 15th to the 19th centuries with French 18th-century paintings and Old Masters.

What do you recommend for visitors with children?

The South Bank has many attractions close together: the London Eye, Shrek’s Adventure! and Sea Life London Aquarium. Teens will enjoy Camden Market.

What do you recommend in Zone 2 and beyond?

Greenwich. The best way to get there is to take a scenic boat ride from Westminster.

You will see the restored Cutty Sark – a 19th-century tea clipper – as well as the National Maritime Museum.

Share a quintessential English experience...

Being an East End boy, I send guests for pie and mash at M. Manze on Tower Bridge Road – don’t forget your jellied eels.

Clockwise from top left: Park Room at Grosvenor House, A JW Marriott Hotel; Cutty Sark; Regent’s Park; Camden Lock

www.tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground map (opposite). Services run Mon-Sat 5am-12.30am and Sun 7.30am-11.30pm on most routes. The night Tube service runs on Fri-Sat on the Victoria, Jubilee, Central, Northern (via Embankment) and Piccadilly line. Fares vary; a Zone 1 adult fare costs £4.80 (£2.30 with an Oyster card).

London Buses London buses run 5am-12.30am. Night buses (midnight-4.30am) operate on main routes (several services are 24-hour). You can’t pay for a bus fare with cash, so use a Visitor Oyster card, Oyster card, Travelcard or a UK-issued contactless payment card. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/ buses. A single fare is £1.50 with an Oyster card or a UK-issued contactless payment card.

London Overground www.tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground Map opposite. Trains run Mon-Sat 5am-midnight; Sun 7am-11.30pm on most routes.

Docklands Light Railway Trains run approximately every three-anda-half minutes to 10 minutes. Mon-Sat 5.30am12.30am; Sun 7am-11pm. T: 020-7363 9700.

Trains Paddington serves the West Country, Wales and the South Midlands.

Liverpool Street and Fenchurch Street serve East Anglia and Essex.

Euston King’s Cross St Pancras Marylebone and St Pancras King’s Cross International (connects to St Pancras) serve north and central Britain, Charing Cross and southeast England.

London Bridge Waterloo Victoria serve southern England. and For times and tickets, visit www.nationalrail. co.uk or call T: 0845-748 4950.

St Pancras International.

Eurostar uses Visit www.eurostar.com for more information, times and ticket prices. Call T: 0344-822 4777 (or if you’re outside the UK, call T: 01233-617 575).

GROSVENOR HOUSE, A JW MARRIOTT HOTEL © RICHARD WAITE PHOTOGRAPHY; CUTTY SARK © VISIT GREENWICH; REGENT’S PARK © GREYWOLF/THE ROYAL PARKS; CAMDEN MARKET © PETER FERENCZY; RICKY BARLOW COURTESY OF GROSVENOR HOUSE, A JW MARRIOTT HOTEL

London Underground (The Tube)

ESSENTIALS

Accessible London

Emirates Air Line cable car

Get information for deaf and disabled travellers, including step-free journeys on the Tube, bus and river service at www.visitlondon.com/ access and www.openbritain.net.

London’s only cable car runs across the River Thames between Greenwich Peninsula (The O2) and the Royal Docks (ExCeL London). You can board from either the North Greenwich or Royal Victoria sides of the river (return flights are available). You can buy a combined ticket with MBNA Thames Clippers and London Transport Museum. www.tfl.gov.uk/emiratesairline.

Taxis You can hail a black cab (taxi) in the street. Fares increase after 8pm. You cannot hail private-hire or minicabs, which you must book. We strongly advise against you using any vehicle that approaches you in the street, except for licensed black cabs. www.tfl.gov.uk.

Car hire Make sure your driving licence is valid for the UK and see ‘Congestion Charge’ below. 4x4 Vehicle Hire: T: 01245-410535. www.4x4vehiclehire.co.uk.

Hertz: T: 0870-844 8844. www.hertz.co.uk. Kendall Cars Ltd: T: 020-8542 0403. www.kendallcars.com.

Enterprise Rent-A-Car: T: 0800-800 227. www.enterprise.co.uk.

UNDERGROUND SIGN © ISTOCK; MAP COURTESY OF TFL

Congestion Charge There is a congestion charge to drive into central London, Mon-Fri 7am-6pm. Payable in advance or on the day of travel (£11.50), or the day after (£14).

UK: T: 034-3222 2222. International: T: +44 20-7649 9122. www.cclondon.com.

River services www.tfl.gov.uk/river MBNA Thames Clippers: T: 020-7001 2200. www.thamesclippers.com. Catamarans leave major piers every 20 mins. Services run between Waterloo Pier and The O2 (North Greenwich Pier) and on to Royal Arsenal Woolwich Pier, stopping at 20 main piers. Discounts on single journeys on all MBNA Thames Clippers river buses. The River Roamer day pass gives unlimited hop-on, hop-off travel from £17.35.

On foot It’s often quicker to get around London by walking. Look out for blue and yellow Legible London street maps. www.tfl.gov.uk/ legiblelondon.

Santander Cycles There are 11,500 bikes for hire from 750 docking stations throughout central London. From £2 for 30 minutes; the first 30 minutes are free. There’s no need to book, but you need a debit or credit card to hire a bike. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/ santandercycles or call T: 0343-222 6666.

24-hour Tube lines

Coaches

Run Fridays & Saturdays on the following lines. More are due to open soon.

London’s main coach services use Victoria Coach Station, a central hub which offers travel to destinations around the UK and some parts of Europe. SW1W 9TP. T: 0843-222 1234. www.tfl.gov.uk/coaches Victoria.

Map D4.

DELIVERY Mail Boxes Worldwide parcel delivery, courier and postal services. There are 1,600 stores worldwide and more than 150 stores in the UK and Ireland.

Mail Boxes are also trained certified packers.

T: 01608-649230. www.mbe.co.uk/london.

• Jubilee Line: Across the entire line.

• Victoria Line: Across the entire line.

• Northern Line: Between Morden and Camden Town and between Camden Town to High Barnet/Edgware. Night Tube will not stop at Charing Cross until July.

• Piccadilly Line: Between Cockfosters and Heathrow Terminal 5.

• Central Line: Between White City and Leytonstone; between Ealing Broadway and White City; and between Leytonstone and Loughton/Hainault. www.wheretraveler.com 87

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WHERE NOW | MICHAEL MORPURGO

My London

MICHAEL MORPURGO WRITER

What is your perfect breakfast?

My favourite breakfast is apple purée made from Bramley apples, toast with homemade marmalade and Kenyan coffee. I would be at home looking out over the River Thames, towards the Barnes Wetlands.

What is your favourite building?

My favourite is Sir Christopher Wren’s great masterpiece, the Royal Hospital Chelsea.

What galleries do you like?

I’d visit the House of Illustration, the brainchild of Sir Quentin Blake, near King’s Cross. Quentin provided illustrations for some of my books and his work features in Michael Morpurgo: A Lifetime in Stories at the V&A Museum of Childhood.

If you go shopping, which shops or areas do you visit?

I will happily spend hours in a Daunt Books – there are a few branches in London.

I like to shop in independent bookshops. Oxfam bookshops are the best for recycling.

What is your favourite green space?

I love to walk in the park at Fulham Palace. It is a park for everyone and it’s a delight that it’s alongside the river.

90 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2017

Where would you choose to go for lunch?

Riva in Barnes. It serves wonderful Italian food. I like it because it is quiet and there is no music being played.

Where do you like to drink?

I’d go to The Crabtree pub, on the river near Hammersmith, and sit outside with my friend, the illustrator Michael Foreman.

Where is your sanctuary?

St Martin-in-the-Fields church near Trafalgar Square is a sanctuary of peace and quiet.

Where is your favourite place for dinner?

My favourite place in London for dinner is Pentolina Restaurant on Blythe Road in Brook Green. It’s intimate with great food and lovely people. I go there with my wife – it’s our place.

What place holds a special memory?

Philbeach Gardens in Earl’s Court, where I grew up, and St Matthias School on Warwick Road, which was my first school.

How do you prefer to travel around?

I like to take the bus and I try to get the coveted spot on the top deck, sitting at the front. It’s the best way to see London.

Would you do anything extravagant?

I would love to hire a boat and go down the River Thames from Teddington to Greenwich and back.

Where would you have afternoon tea, and who’d be your guest?

I would take afternoon tea in the Royal Academy of Arts’ members’ room with JMW Turner, William Blake and John Constable. We could talk about their work in the rooms surrounding us.

What is your ideal entertainment?

I saw Running Wild, a wonderful Chichester Festival Theatre production, which is on tour at present. It is from the same extraordinary puppetry team behind War Horse.

Where would you love to spend the night?

St Pancras Renaissance London Hotel in King’s Cross. You can walk downstairs in the morning, have breakfast and take the Eurostar to Paris.

What is your favourite piece at the V&A Museum of Childhood’s exhibition?

The very first working maquette of Joey, the War Horse puppet in the amazing National Theatre production. It stands at just a foot high and is made of cardboard, wire and feathers.

Cambridge Heath Rd, E2 9PA. T: 020-8983 5200. www.vam.ac.uk/moc Clockwise from top left: St Pancras; Michael Morpurgo; Daunt Books; House of Illustration with Quentin Blake; War Horse; Fulham Palace

ST PANCRAS © ISTOCK; MICHAEL MORPURGO © VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM, LONDON; DAUNT BOOKS COURTESY OF DAUNT BOOKS; QUENTIN BLAKE IN HOUSE OF ILLUSTRATION © PAUL GROVER; WAR HORSE COURTESY OF NATIONAL THEATRE; FULHAM PALACE © KAJSA KAX

Morpurgo is one of Britain’s bestloved authors. He is famous for his novel War Horse, which was turned into an award-winning play. This month, he is celebrated in the V&A Museum of Childhood’s Michael Morpurgo: A Lifetime in Stories

wembleystadium.com/tours 0800 169 9933

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