LONDON CITY GUIDE ®
SEPTEMBER 2017
STRIKE A POSE
WWW.WHERETRAVELER.COM
London Fashion Week struts into town
FOOD FOR THOUGHT
Meet the chefs reinventing our cuisine
WELCOME
TO THE WORLD’S GREATEST RIVER Enjoy the festivals that are making waves, from Totally Thames to The Great River Race + boats, bars and bridges
GERALD SCARFE
PLUS
ON DRAWING LONDON’S FAMOUS FACES
DESIGN FESTIVALS TRAVEL ACCESSORIES ULTIMATE JAZZ CLUBS
C U LT U R E
E N T E R TA I N M E N T
SHOPPING
DINING
MAPS
Contents See more of London at www.wheretraveler.com/london
September
LONDON CITY GUIDE
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SEPTEMBER 2017
WWW.WHERETRAVELER.COM
STRIKE A POSE
London Fashion Week struts into town
FOOD FOR THOUGHT
Enjoy the festivals that are making waves, from Totally Thames to The Great River Race + boats, bars and bridges
ON THE COVER
GERALD SCARFE
PLUS
ON DRAWING LONDON’S FAMOUS FACES
DESIGN FESTIVALS TRAVEL ACCESSORIES ULTIMATE JAZZ CLUBS
C U LT U R E
E N T E R TA I N M E N T
WL SEP 2017 COVER.indd 1
SHOPPING
DINING
MAPS
Enjoy the beauty of the River Thames. Cover image © iStock
17/08/2017 16:20
The Guide
54 ASK YOUR CONCIERGE
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44
72
Best of the month
Paul McCartney to Margaret Thatcher, ahead of a major exhibition at the House of Illustration.
6 WHERE NOW This month’s biggest festivals and events, from the BBC Proms to the NFL Games.
10 TAKE ME TO THE RIVER Find out how you can make a splash on the River Thames.
18 FROM LONDON WITH LOVE Passport holders, carry-on bags and more – take your pick from these travel essentials.
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14 PUSHING BOUNDARIES Iconic cartoonist Gerald Scarfe looks back over his star-studded career capturing famous faces, from
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82 MY PERFECT DAY Killian Donnelly, star of Les Misérables, shares his top London spots, from where he dines with singer Nick Jonas to where he enjoys the perfect Guinness.
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20 SIGHTSEEING Unlock the capital during the Open House London festival, where buildings such as The Gherkin are open to the public. 36 MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Design festivals are taking over the city, with pop-up artworks and large-scale installations.
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LONDON FASHION WEEKEND COURTESY OF LONDON FASHION WEEKEND; PAUL MCCARTNEY © GERALD SCARFE; THE TERRIBLE INFANTS COURTESY OF THE TERRIBLE INFANTS; AFTERNOON TEA COURTESY OF AQUAVIT; MUSICIAN COURTESY OF THE JAZZ CAFÉ
WELCOME
TO THE WORLD’S GREATEST RIVER
Meet the chefs reinventing our cuisine
In this city, we also produce IN London – a portfolio of luxury magazines in Arabic, Chinese and English – and London Planner, the official monthly guide to the capital from VisitBritain and the Mayor’s promotional company, London & Partners.
44 ENTERTAINMENT The award-winning team Les Enfants Terribles brings The Terrible Infants to Wilton’s Music Hall. Plus, where you can see stars, from Juliet Stevenson to Stockard Channing. 54 SHOPPING Discover how you can enjoy all the glamour of London Fashion Week at festivals across Carnaby Street, Regent Street and more. 62 DINING We celebrate British chefs who are transforming our national cuisine, and take a look at quirky afternoon teas. 72 NIGHTLIFE Enjoy a night of live jazz music at these world-famous venues, from Ronnie Scott’s to the Savoy. 76 WELLBEING Indulge in these spa treatments that are designed especially for business travellers. 78 ESSENTIALS London concierges share their travel tips, hidden gems and strangest requests.
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Vol. No. 43 Issue No. 9 ISSN 0951 323X YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936®
4 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017
WELCOME
Editor’s Letter
Making waves Few cities make the most of their river. For London, however, the Thames has been a symbol of the city, from acting as a trading route for the British Empire, to a stage for a boat pageant for the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee. Get swept away by the magic during festivals including Totally Thames (p. 10). I am so excited to share our interview with Gerald Scarfe! Have you ever been such a big fan of someone that you wanted to turn up outside their house? Well, that’s what our journalist Emma did when she was a student three decades ago. The cartoonist behind Pink Floyd’s The Wall and Disney’s Hercules talks to us about what it’s like to draw British celebrities and politicians (p. 14). If you love design, you’re here at a great time: whether it’s style at London Fashion Week (p. 54), architecture at Open House London (p. 20) or art at the London Design Festival (p. 36), there’s something for everyone. We held our first Nominees Celebrations (below), which were part of this year’s MVP Golden Keys Concierge of the Year Awards. We raised a glass to the concierges who are up for gongs at this year’s awards. Follow our social media for competitions and travel ideas.
KOHINOOR SAHOTA Group Editor Where London Twitter: @WhereLondon Facebook: Where London Instagram: wherelondon
A T
T H E
I N T E R C O N T I N E N T A L WEEKEND BRUNCH
Theo Randall at the InterContinental has launched a new ‘La Dolce Vita’ weekend brunch menu. Featuring a selection of brunch classics with an authentic Italian twist complemented by bottomless prosecco and bellinis. To start, indulge in a variety of antipasti dishes from a selection of Italian salads, cured meats and cheeses. Primi and secondi dishes include Theo’s well-loved classics such as handmade pasta stuffed with slow cooked veal and pancetta with porcini mushrooms and parmesan. To finish, a selection of desserts will be served to share, including his signature Amalfi lemon tart. Saturday Brunch | £57 per person Three courses and bottomless prosecco & bellinis Sunday Brunch | £45 per person Four courses. Supplementary drinks packages available For reservations, call 020 7318 8747 or visit www.theorandall.com Theo Randall at the InterContinental One Hamilton Place, Park Lane London, W1J 7QY
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As autumn begins, take your pick from festivals galore! NFL touch down in London, the Great Gorilla Run races through town and Meatopia raises the steaks
BERMONDSEY STREET FESTIVAL SAT 16 SEP
Experience a village fĂŞte in the heart of the capital at Bermondsey Street Festival. As well as food and craft stalls and live jazz, there is an outdoor dance floor, Maypole dancing and a dog show. www.bermondsey streetfestival.org.uk
6 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017
NFL LONDON GAMES AT WEMBLEY STADIUM FROM SUN 24 SEP
Since American football sprung on to the London sporting stage in 2007, the annual NFL (National Football League) matches, held at Wembley Stadium and Twickenham, have gone from strength to strength. London welcomes gridiron teams from over the pond to play four games. The Baltimore Ravens make their debut in the city, while other matches include New Orleans Saints taking on the Miami Dolphins. www.wembleystadium.com
LAST NIGHT OF THE PROMS TO SAT 9 SEP
See off this year’s Proms programme in style at Last Night of the Proms (9 Sep), starring the soprano Nina Stemme, among others. You can also attend Proms in the Park on the same night in Hyde Park, starring Ray Davies, Bryn Terfel and Elaine Page. Beforehand, there are still plenty of events, such as Jools Holland and his band’s tribute to Stax Records (1 Sep) with songs by Otis Redding and Isaac Hayes. www.royalalberthall.com
THE GREAT GORILLA RUN
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SAT 16 SEP
Dress up as a gorilla and run through London. Why? Because this is what locals do! Join thousands in the annual Great Gorilla Run, an 8km race through the city, and raise funds and awareness for the 900 mountain gorillas left in the wild. www.greatgorillarun.org
SEPTEMBER
DARBAR FESTIVAL FROM MON 11 SEP
Darbar Festival 2017, held at the Southbank Centre, Barbican Centre and Sadler’s Wells, is an annual celebration of Indian classical music. This month, catch Bollywood singer Shankar Mahadevan at the Southbank Centre (16 Sep) and listen to traditional instruments including the tabla, sarangi and ghazal. www.darbar.org
JASPER JOHNS FROM SAT 23 SEP
In Jasper Johns: Something Resembling Truth at the Royal Academy of Arts, you’ll see maps, lightbulbs and the American flag. By taking the nation’s flag out of context and placing it in a gallery, Johns turned it into a work of art that needed analysing. It has been 40 years since a retrospective has been held in this country, and the artist, now 87 years old, is being celebrated. This is part of an initiative from the gallery to celebrate living artists. www.royalacademy.org.uk
MEATOPIA FRI 1-SUN 3 SEP
Taking place at Tobacco Dock, this is an event where you can sharpen your steak knives and get to see top chefs and butchers at work. You can sample meat that’s been cooked over logs or charcoal, and from animals that have been raised naturally and sourced locally. Meat gets theatrical here with demonstrations. www.meatopia.co.uk
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30
HOT DATES
At Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club, party with the Spanish Harlem Orchestra (p. 53) Take a tour of the Houses of Parliament, the home of British democracy (p. 27) It is the last day to visit Zoorasic Park at ZSL London Zoo (p. 28) Head to a sports bar to watch England vs Slovakia at Wembley Stadium (p. 34) Oslo, a play about the 1993 Middle East agreement, opens tonight (p. 50) Enjoy an atmospheric evening candlelit tour of Sir John Soane’s Museum (p. 40) Step on to the hallowed Centre Court during a tour of Wimbledon (p. 42) Book a ride on the underground Mail Rail at the brand-new Postal Museum (p. 40) Last chance to see Audra McDonald as bluesy Billie Holiday in Lady Day (p. 50) Wildlife Photographer of the Year closes at the Natural History Museum (p. 40) Get ready for tears with La Bohème at the Royal Opera House, from tonight (p. 52) Take the boat to Greenwich and visit The Royal Observatory’s planetarium (p. 29) See the Irish crooner Christy Moore performing at the Royal Festival Hall The British Museum’s exhibition about the ancient Scythians opens today (p. 38) What should you buy the Queen? Find out at Buckingham Palace’s Royal Gifts (p. 24) Get your ticket to see Spurs vs Swansea at Wembley Stadium (p. 34) Enjoy a free organ recital (4.45pm-5.15pm) at stunning St Paul’s Cathedral (p. 30) Head to Kew Gardens for large-scale works at Sculpt at Kew, from today (p. 22) Enjoy a concert by the American rock band Foo Fighters, tonight at The O2 (p. 53) See pastels and paintings by Degas at The National Gallery’s new exhibition (p. 40) Jean-Michel Basquiat’s edgy exhibition at Barbican Art Gallery opens today (p. 37) Head to the Serpentine Pavilion for Joseph Grigely’s Park Nights show (p. 43) Enjoy a night of Hendrix-inspired music at Handel & Hendrix in London (p. 26) See exhibits in the art fair Design Junction at Granary Square in King’s Cross (p. 36) Enjoy Gerald Scarfe’s stage designs at his exhibition at House of Illustration (p. 14) Don’t miss the Queer British Art exhibition at Tate Britain, which closes soon (p. 43) Star dancer Carlos Acosta debuts his group, Acosta Danza, at Sadler’s Wells (p. 52) Catch the final day of the Surrey vs Lancashire cricket match at the Oval It’s the final week of the Pink Floyd exhibition at the V&A – book now (p. 40) Enjoy cheeky cabaret with Briefs – the last night of the Underbelly Festival (p. 50)
For more ideas visit www.wheretraveler.com
PREVIOUS PAGES: LAST NIGHT OF THE PROMS © SIM CANETTY-CLARKE/BBC; CLOWN COURTESY OF BERMONDSEY STREET FESTIVAL; NFL © SEAN RYAN/NFL; GORILLA RUN © DANIEL D MOSES. THIS PAGE: AMJAD ALI KHAN © SANDEEP VIRDEE; JASPER JOHNS’ SUMMER, 1985 © MUSEUM OF MODERN ART, NEW YORK/JASPER JOHNS/VAGA, NEW YORK/DACS, LONDON 2017/DIGITAL IMAGE, THE MUSEUM OF MODERN ART, NEW YORK/SCALA, FLORENCE; CHEFS COURTESY OF MEATOPIA
WHERE NOW | CALENDAR
As the Totally Thames festival returns with a splash, Sarah Riches sets sail along London’s waterways to discover how you can make the most of them TOTALLY THAMES London wouldn’t be what it is without the Thames, so it’s only right that it’s celebrated once in a while. The annual Totally Thames (1-30 Sep) brings more than 150 events to the capital, from underground concerts to illuminated art. Totally Thames’ director, Adrian Evans, says: ‘For our 20th birthday edition, we are exploring the working river and the history of the Thames’ boatyards through spoken word and oral history, photography and film. We’re also celebrating our beautiful River Thames with boat races, barge pulls, rallies, paddleboarding – even a river swim!’ Taking the 300th anniversary of Handel’s Water Music as inspiration, composer Iain Chambers hosts Bascule Chamber Concerts inside Tower Bridge (22-24 Sep). The concerts feature live recordings of river sounds and performances from clarinettist Kate Romano and spoken word artist Kayo Chingonyi, while the Franco-Cameroonian singer Coco Mbassi performs a new piece inspired by conversations on boats carrying immigrants. In keeping with the theme of river stories, Working River: London’s Boatyards (1-30 Sep) brings the history of the river’s moorings to life through oral history, photography and
We’re celebrating our beautiful river with races, barge pulls and rallies 10 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017
MAIN IMAGE OF LONDON © ISTOCK; ROWERS COURTESY OF THE GREAT RIVER RACE; BOAT POETS DESIGN © ANDREAS BROOKS 2017; TONGUE FU LIVE AND ST KATHARINE DOCKS COURTESY OF TOTALLY THAMES
RIVER FESTIVALS | WHERE NOW
film in a series of exhibitions, while four emerging spoken word artists spend time on boats to explore river life before performing Boat Poets at the National Poetry Library in the Royal Festival Hall (6, 25 & 28 Sep). Another theme for this year’s festival is plastic pollution, which is in the spotlight after the World Economic Forum predicted that there will be more plastic than fish in the sea by 2050. Maria Arceo has collected a year’s worth of plastic from 40 beaches along the Thames to create Future Dust (1-30 Sep). The large-scale installation tours the Thames
and will be illuminated at night by the Dutch light artist Tim Scheffer. Meanwhile, environmental talks, paddleboarding, river clean-ups and screenings of A Plastic Ocean take place throughout September. Listen out for other events including a Rivers of the World exhibition at City Hall and along the Thames pathway from More London to the South Bank (1-30 Sep); a tidal swim around Chiswick Eyot island (2 Sep) and 400 children singing at The Scoop by City Hall (17 Sep). www.totallythames.org
THE GREAT RIVER RACE If you’re craving adrenaline, then don’t miss The Great River Race (9 Sep). At 21.6 miles (34.7km), the contest is a virtual marathon on water. More than 330 international crews take part as they sail from Docklands in east London. The teams pass under 10 bridges along the way including Tower Bridge, Chiswick, Kew and Richmond before a cannon announces the winner at the end of the route in Ham, Surrey.
www.wheretraveler.com 11
WHERE NOW | RIVER FESTIVALS
how to enjoy the river
The River Thames travels more than 338km, from the Cotswolds to London and into the North Sea
the festival is a slice of british life But the Oxford and Cambridge Boat Race this is not – so expect fancy dress, dragon boats and face painting, before joining participants for drinks in the Great River Race marquee by Ham House. www.greatriverrace.co.uk ANGEL CANAL FESTIVAL For something more sedate, visit Angel Canal Festival (3 Sep) on Regent’s Canal in north London. Originally created for inner-city children, over time the festival turned into an annual tea party and later into Angel Day, which, in 1986, developed into the Angel Canal Festival. This year, more than 7,000 people are expected to attend. The founder, the late Crystal Hale, saved the City Road Basin from being filled in and built on. Celebrate her success and love for 12 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017
the water by enjoying boat trips, races, a regatta and kayaking. Event organiser Beryl Windsor says: ‘The festival is a slice of British life, like a village fête but with boats. We have 60 stalls, plus world food, acoustic bands including ska and jazz, folk and ukulele, Morris dancers and a chance for people over nine to learn how to canoe or sail.’ The Mayor of Islington arrives by boat from the London Canal Museum, while Pearly Kings and Queens – people dressed in suits covered in pearl buttons, as is the East End tradition – roam the festival. A fun fair, donkey rides, Punch and Judy shows and storytellers entertain children, who can also do pottery, hire pedaloes and play on a pirate ship. www.angelcanalfestival.org
BIRD’S EYE VIEW For a unique perspective of the River Thames, see it from the glass floor of Tower Bridge, 42m above the waves. While you’re there you might also want to tour the bridge’s engine rooms beneath the river. Alternatively, climb The O2 arena. Up at The O2 (below), which celebrates its fifth birthday this year, gives thrill-seekers the chance to take a 90-minute guided expedition over the roof of the arena. www.towerbridge. org.uk; www.theo2.co.uk RIVERBANK BARS There are riverside pubs up and down the Thames. Dating from 1520, The Prospect of Whitby in Wapping (closed 19-23 Sep) backs on to the water. Featuring an original flagstone floor, old barrels and built-in ship masts, you can imagine the smugglers and pirates who used to sink a pint here, alongside Charles Dickens and Samuel Pepys. At the other end of the city, you’ll find The Ship near Chiswick Bridge. Built in 1781, its rooftop terrace overlooks the finishing line of the Oxford and Cambridge Boat Race. www.greeneking-pubs.co.uk
KAYAKING AND STALL HOLDER COURTESY OF ANGEL CANAL FESTIVAL; VAN/BOAT COURTESY OF LONDON DUCK TOURS; UP AT THE O2 COURTESY OF UP AT THE O2
CRUISE CONTROL You can tick off all the capital’s key sights in one go on a City Cruises tour with a live audio commentary. Thames Clippers stretches as far as Putney and Woolwich. Got kids? Then take to the water on an amphibious truck-boat hybrid with London Duck Tours (to 17 Sep; above), which offers James Bond and pirate treasure hunt-themed tours. For a more thrilling adventure, ThamesJet’s Thames Rush is a 50-minute speedboat that zips you from Westminster to Canary Wharf and back. For something more relaxed, opt for an afternoon tea or lunch cruise with Bateaux London. Its dinner cruise includes live entertainment. www.citycruises.com; www.thamesclippers. com; www.londonducktours.co.uk; www. thamesjet.com; www.bateauxlondon.com
Really great days out that make a real dierence
window seat @zsllondonzoo #ZooLife
Experience it for yourself at zsl.org/london Camden Town | Regent’s Park
Gerald Scarfe has been sketching British icons, from Pink Floyd to Winston Churchill, for more than 50 years. Emma Levine talks to the artist about his upcoming exhibition
14 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017
GERALD SCARFE | WHERE NOW t sounded complete nonsense to me at the time,’ remarked Gerald Scarfe, when the band Pink Floyd asked him to create the animation to accompany the album, film and tour for The Wall in the late 1970s. It’s not surprising that this seemed like a request out of the blue. The London-born Scarfe has been best known for his acerbic political cartoons for more than half a century now. In the true tradition of a caricature artist, his work has been a constant commentary on public figures ever since his first cartoons for the satirical magazines Private Eye and Punch were published in the early 1960s. ‘When I first came to prominence they said I was the new Hogarth. I could see what they meant,’ Scarfe comments, referring to the English 18th-century satirical artist – part of a long tradition in this country. ‘I believe it is important for satirical art to be with us always. To be able to question our leaders is a very healthy state. I always think like the old court jester, who was able to poke fun at the king and was able to make comments on behalf of the common people. We have a very great tradition of satirical art in this country – supreme examples being Hogarth, Gillray, Cruikshank and Rowlandson.’
GERALD SCARFE COURTESY OF HOUSE OF ILLUSTRATION; CARICATURES © GERALD SCARFE; INK SPLATS © ISTOCK
IN THE SPOTLIGHT London is celebrating Scarfe. The House of Illustration hosts the new exhibition Gerald Scarfe: Stage and Screen (from 22 Sep). It turns the spotlight on to the theatrical side of this hugely versatile artist, exploring his lesser-known production designs, with exhibits including storyboards from Hercules to the English National Ballet’s The Nutcracker. Meanwhile, the Victoria and Albert Museum’s exhibition Pink Floyd: Their Mortal Remains (to 1 Oct) includes exhibits and interviews on their album and film The Wall. ‘Mostly I’m known for my political cartoons, but as people will see I have entered many other worlds: rock’n’roll, opera, ballet, theatre and animation,’ Scarfe says. ‘This exhibition explores some of those other areas – bringing my drawings to life, bringing them off the page and breathing life into them through theatre, animation and so on.’ Scarfe is certainly something of a Renaissance man, as demonstrated by his remarkably diverse career. Not only his collaboration with Pink Floyd – ‘They might be rock gods, but to me they were just regular guys,’ he comments wryly – but in 1994
MICK JAGGER
Disney approached him to design the sets and characters for the movie Hercules. It was seen to be a left-field choice, but one that turned out to be hugely successful. Later, Tchaikovsky’s ballet The Nutcracker courted controversy even before it was staged in London, when Scarfe designed the set, and included killer mice wearing gas masks, brandishing Kalashnikovs. ‘It is a great escape from drawing the same wretched politicians over and over,’ he says.
MEETING THE MASTER As a precocious art student in 1987, I had the pleasure of meeting my hero. While studying Scarfe’s work, alongside other British caricature art, I was in contact with him and made an unannounced visit to his west London home. He and his wife, Jane Asher, welcomed me graciously and showed me around his upstairs studio where I was able to see many of his iconic pieces up close. The ever-imaginative Scarfe went 3D to create one of my favourite pieces, Chair Man Mao: a sturdy, red leather armchair MARY designed in the form POPPINS
of the late Chinese leader, Chairman Mao. It has overtones of Salvador Dali’s sofa shaped like the mouth of Mae West – although this is the one with the real bite. He has attacked leaders across the political spectrum with his razor-sharp pen for decades, mainly for The Sunday Times for 44 years, from which he has only recently retired. Nothing escapes his scrutiny: one of his earliest pieces was of Sir Winston Churchill looking frail in the House of Commons in 1964. It was considered too controversial to publish in The Times, but Private Eye had put it on its cover when he died, six months later. ‘At the time I drew Churchill we, the public, only knew his iconic image: the bulldog with the cigar clenched within his teeth facing the Hun from the white cliffs of Dover. When I went to draw him in the House of Commons, it was the first time I’d seen him and the icon was now a shambling, senile wreck helped into the chamber of the House of Commons by two young MPs. It was a shock to see what he had become,’ Scarfe reveals. Margaret Thatcher was often portrayed ‘with a stabbing, aquiline nose, drooping eyes and a small mouth, full of bloody incisors,’ he describes in an interview. Tony Blair was unfavourably portrayed as an evil-looking Ronald McDonald. Scarfe’s work is often grotesque, and sometimes even obscene.
www.wheretraveler.com 15
WHERE NOW | GERALD SCARFE ACCEPTANCE AND APPROVAL ‘The cartoonist’s job is to be as truthful as possible. In Private Eye they encouraged me to attack. I’m happy to draw some of these characters as pigs, or demons or whatever – that’s my job,’ Scarfe says. ‘I should be able to attack anybody – although that can be difficult at the moment,’ he added, making a sombre acknowledgement to the attacks on the French satirical newspaper Charlie Hebdo in 2015. But do his cartoons always meet with approval? Some will balk at his creations, including readers, publishers and the subjects themselves. In 2013, The Sunday Times publisher Rupert Murdoch was forced to apologise when Scarfe’s blood-splattered cartoon of Israeli prime minister Benjamin Netanyahu was deemed by many to have crossed the line. On the other hand, as Scarfe comments: ‘I’ve had some politicians write to me to ask for a copy of an offensive cartoon I’ve done of them – maybe to hang up in their toilet! Most prominent figures do not react to their caricature, but perhaps they feel it is beneath their dignity. No one has actually confronted me in the street and told me they didn’t like my work – yet!’
MONTY PYTHON TODAY’S WORKS
“TO BE ABLE TO QUESTION OUR LEADERS IS A VERY HEALTHY STATE” - SCARFE 16 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U N E 2017
THE BRITISH LIBRARY Satire is a worldwide genre, as shown at the exhibition Comic and Cartoon Art from the Arabic World at The British Library (until 29 Oct). The art, history and significance of Arab comics are examined, from 19th-century Egyptian satirical press and 20th-century children’s comics to contemporary graphic novels. The display sheds light on issues such as politics and society across the Arab world. www.bl.uk THE CARTOON MUSEUM Now in its 30th year, The Cartoon Museum champions the best of British cartoon art. Its ever-growing permanent collection features great masters of the genre including Gillray, Cruikshank and Hogarth. www.cartoonmuseum.org SIR JOHN SOANE’S MUSEUM The 18th-century William Hogarth, dubbed ‘the grandfather of satire’, is considered to be one of the greatest-ever English political cartoonists. His works were critical of London society in a darkly humorous way. Tucked away in this museum, you can see his famous series of prints from The Rake’s Progress. www.soane.org
CARICATURES © GERALD SCARFE
MARGARET THATCHER
To see his works in situ, Rosewood London hotel in Holborn opened Scarfe’s Bar in 2013, for which he was commissioned to paint caricatures of famous British figures on its walls. Its figures range from a grinning Princess Anne to a guitar-strumming Paul McCartney and a pouting Mick Jagger, and there are unflattering portrayals of political leaders Harold Wilson and Ed Miliband. Scarfe has just drawn cartoons to accompany the bar’s themed cocktail menu, with British characters including Harry Potter and Mary Poppins. But will there always be politicians who inspire him to satirise? ‘The most memorable are usually the most wicked – people like Richard Nixon, Idi Amin, Enoch Powell, Tony Blair and George Bush. And now there is the frightful Donald Trump,’ Scarfe says. From this evidence alone, the 81-year-old shows no sign of flagging, and remains as razor sharp and relevant as ever. House of Illustration, 2 Granary Square, N1C 4BH. T: 020-3696 2020. www.houseofillustration.org.uk; Victoria and Albert Museum, Cromwell Rd, SW7 2RL. T: 020-7942 2000. www.vam.ac.uk
CAT938
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WHERE NOW | SHOPPING
WEIGHT WATCHERS Weigh luggage before you go to the airport to avoid fines Go Travel Digital Luggage Weighing Scale, £9.99, John Lewis, 300 Oxford St, W1C 1DX
FROM LONDON
FOR YOUR EYES ONLY This eye mask contains a pinch of lavender to soothe tired eyes and aid sleep Otis Batterbee Cravat-print Cotton Silk Eye Mask, £50, John Lewis, 300 Oxford St, W1C 1DX
Take your pick from these travel items, from carry-on bags to mini chess sets
YOUR CUP OF TEA This travel cup from the world-famous store has a London-inspired print Pretty City Thermal Travel Mug, £10, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL
Top Pick
YOUR KEY (RING) TO THE CITY From London designer Amanda Wakeley Sea Fox Natural Keychain, £69, Amanda Wakeley, Harvey Nichols, 109-125 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7RJ 18 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017
THE BACK STORY British designer Anya Hindmarch is famous for her quirky accessories Eyes Mini Backpack in Circus Leather, £895, Anya Hindmarch, 118 New Bond St, W1S 1EW
CHECKMATE! A chess set from one of London’s best-known toy stores Travel Chess & Checkers, £17, Hamleys, 188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT
A BAG OF TRICKS This bag contains a battery charger pack for mobile devices Small Mount Street Tech Bag, £650, Aspinal of London, 25 Brook St, W1K 4HB
ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF THE RETAILERS; WOMAN © ISTOCK
CHECKING IN Created by iconic designer Cath Kidston, famous for her London prints Marching Band PVC Passport Holder, Cath Kidston, £6.67, 180 Piccadilly, W1J 9ER
TAG ALONG Handcrafted tags made from soft deerskin Burlington Luggage Tag, £85 each, Smythson, 40 New Bond St, W1S 2DE
SIGHTSEEING | THE GUIDE Clockwise from this image: 30 St Mary Axe (the Gherkin); BT Tower; Lacey House in north London; Vantage House in Islington
Grand designs They say a golden key can open any door, but you don’t need any key to take part in Open House London (16-17 Sep), a free city-wide architecture and design festival. The independent architecture education organisation, Open-City, has been hosting the festival since 1992, granting visitors access to buildings that are not usually open to the public. Most are chosen for their architectural merit, either as part of the building or as a whole. In recent years, Crossrail construction sites, embassies and zero-carbon buildings have taken part, as well as the archive buildings in Kew Gardens and the ArcelorMittal Orbit. More than 800 buildings are taking part this year. The City’s iconic Tower 42 on Old Broad Street, and 30 St Mary Axe – better known as the Gherkin – take part 20 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017
again, and you can also explore the BT Tower and The Shard. New for 2017 is a remodelled Victorian railway cottage in Wood Green, north London, which has a moveable kitchen to give its residents flexibility and a larger living area when required. There’s also a 1980s mews house in Camden that has roof glazing above a winding staircase, in the style of a Moroccan riad. Also new this year are entire rooms in homes made from just clay, concrete or glass, and a flat in a dome of a former Victorian church. Architects, engineers and planners will be on site to answer your questions at many of the locations. You can also listen to a range of experts cover subjects such as what makes a successful city, or go on one of the free walks.
In addition to touring the sites, you can take part in free bike rides, as well as guided engineering and landscape tours of construction sites, recycling centres and major regeneration projects. Children, meanwhile, can do quiz trails and get involved in architectural model-making. The Open House weekend has proved so popular, it now takes place in 30 cities around the world. Book your place! www.openhouselondon.org.uk
30 ST MARY AXE © NIGEL YOUNG; BT TOWER COURTESY OF OPEN HOUSE LONDON; LACEY HOUSE © VICKY BAMFORTH PHOTOGRAPHY; VANTAGE HOUSE © LINDSAY BROADLEY
An architecture and design festival is set to open more than a few doors across the capital, says Sarah Riches
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SIGHTSEEING T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and last entry time. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81
SIGHTSEEING
Set in stone
Apsley House
A new contemporary outdoor sculpture exhibition, Sculpt at Kew, is coming to Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew (from 18 Sep; p. 29). Original artwork made from marble, stone, bronze, ceramics and glass is dotted along an outdoor trail that winds around the grounds. Expect to see pieces by Andrey Vrabchev (right), life-sized animals by Piers Mason and figurative art by Paul Vanstone. Other highlights include birds of prey mid-flight, and turtles swimming through kelp. All the works are for sale – just don’t expect them to fit in your suitcase!
Visit the home of the Duke of Wellington to see its grand interiors and fine art. Please check the website for prices and times. www.englishheritage.org.uk/apsleyhouse. 149 Piccadilly, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7NT. T: 020-7499 5676. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
ArcelorMittal Orbit This 115m tall observation tower, designed by the Turner Prize-winning artist Sir Anish Kapoor, offers 20-mile views over Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park and beyond. Adventurous types can abseil down it or whizz down its 178m tunnel slide, which is the world’s longest. Mon-Fri 11am-5pm; Sat-Sun 10am-6pm. Adult £12.50; child £7.50. www.arcelormittalorbit.com. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2SS. T: 0333-800 8099. Off map. Station: Stratford.
Banqueting House This 17th-century building was designed by Inigo Jones for James I, with an exquisite painted ceiling by celebrated Baroque artist Peter Paul Rubens. It is the only remaining part of the Palace of Westminster, which was destroyed by fire. Daily 10am-1pm, but call before visiting. Adult £6.50; child free. www.hrp.org.uk. Whitehall, SW1A 2ER. T: 020-3166 6000. E8. Station: Westminster.
The Society of the Golden Keys of Great Britain (Les Clefs d’Or) Welcomes you to London.
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Please visit the concierge desk during your stay - nobody knows the UK like Les Clefs d’Or.
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SIGHTSEEING Battersea Park Children’s Zoo
Top Pick
Zoo with keeper experiences, a play area and a petting farm. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Adult £9.50; child £7.50. www.batterseaparkzoo.co.uk. Battersea Park, Chelsea Bridge Gate, SW11 4NJ. T: 020-7924 5826. Off map. Station: Battersea Park.
The British Library The world’s largest library has many temporary exhibitions and a great permanent collection. To 19 Sep: Gay UK: Love, Law and Liberty. Marking the changes in gay culture since the 1895 trial of Oscar Wilde. Please check for times. Admission free; charges for tours, some events and exhibitions. www.bl.uk. 96 Euston Rd, NW1 2DB. T: 0330-333 1144. C7. Station: King’s Cross.
Buckingham Palace
London rocks A generation after the legendary guitarist Jimi Hendrix first arrived in London, the museum Handel & Hendrix in London is celebrating the star’s career with tours and a one-off night out. Hendrix arrived in the capital in September 1966, and within hours he performed solo on a borrowed guitar at an impromptu gig at The Scotch of St James in Mayfair. Two days later he held auditions for his band, The Jimi Hendrix Experience. To celebrate, Hendrix at The Scotch (23 Sep; p. 26) is a night of Hendrix-inspired cocktails, three live bands and a DJ playing 1960s vinyl. Fans can also join a tour by London Rock Tours, which stops by Hendrix’s Mayfair flat and the spot where he burnt his first guitar.
The London residence and principal workplace of the monarchy, which is only open to the public during summer. To 1 Oct: Summer Opening. Visit the palace’s glorious state rooms and the special exhibition, Royal Gifts, which showcases presents that have been given to the Queen. Daily 9am-7.30pm. Adult £23; child £13. www.royalcollection.org.uk. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria/Green Park.
Changing the Guard Watch the famous changing of the Queen’s Guard on Buckingham Palace’s forecourt (except in very wet weather). Free. From 10am; check online for dates. www.householddivision.org.uk. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria/Green Park.
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SIGHTSEEING
ADVER TORIAL
Autumn in Greenwich There’s no better way to start autumn than with a Sunday buffet brunch with bottomless Bellinis at Market Brasserie, InterContinental London – The O2. The hotel has views across the river and is around the corner from Emirates Air Line cable car where you can fly over the Thames for more amazing views. September is your last chance to catch up with BB-8 and his pals at Star Wars: Identities at The O2. It’s a fantastic exhibition of backstage props, costumes and memorabilia from the film series. The wide open spaces of Blackheath are beautiful in early autumn and perfect for a familyfriendly festival. On Blackheath is a celebration of music, food and acts, including The Libertines and Travis. See the Painted Hall at the Old Royal Naval College. Ascend 60 feet to see the painted roof in a Ceiling Tour of the artwork that took 18 years to paint.
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SIGHTSEEING Chelsea Physic Garden
Cutty Sark
Dr Johnson’s House
Admire 5,000 species of plants at London’s oldest botanic garden, including medicinal and tropical ones. Adult £10.50; child £6.95. Please check for times. www.chelseaphysicgarden.co.uk. 66 Royal Hospital Rd, SW3 4HS. T: 020-7352 5646. Off map. Station: Sloane Square.
This 19th-century ship is the world’s last surviving tea clipper. Explore interactive displays on deck or take part in family-friendly events. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £13.50; child £7. Joint tickets with Royal Observatory available. www.rmg.co.uk/cutty sark. King William Walk, SE10 9HT. T: 020-8312 6608. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.
Writer Dr Samuel Johnson compiled his first English dictionary, published in 1755, in this 18th-century period home. Check for staged performances, talks and tours. Mon-Sat 11am-5.30pm. Adult £6; child £2.50. www.drjohnsonshouse.org. 17 Gough Square, EC4A 3DE. T: 020-7353 3745. D9. Station: Temple/Chancery Lane.
Dennis Severs’ House
Eltham Palace & Gardens
Chiswick House & Gardens Trust See Old Masters on display in this neo-Palladian villa. Gardens daily 7am-dusk; house Fri-Wed 10am-6pm; conservatory daily 10am-4pm. House adult £7.20; child £4.30. www.chgt.org.uk. Chiswick House, Burlington Lane, W4 2RP. T: 020-8995 0508. Off map. Station: Chiswick Park.
Learn about a family of Huguenot silk weavers from the 17th to 19th centuries. Check for times, plus silent and candlelit tours. Tickets £5-£15. www.dennis severshouse.co.uk. 18 Folgate St, E1 6BX. T: 020-7247 4013. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.
Experience the decade of decadence as you are transported back to the 1930s. Part showpiece of Art Deco design and part medieval royal palace, make yourself at home as a guest of the Courtaulds, its wealthy owners. Check for prices and times. www.english-heritage.org.uk/eltham. Court Yard, SE9 5QE. T: 020-8294 2548. Off map. Station: Eltham.
Fulham Palace
THE VIEW YOU’LL NEVER FORGET
This 15th-century building was the summer retreat of the Bishops of London. Now it’s a museum with gardens, a café and art gallery. It has regular kids’ crafts, garden walks and historical tours. 20 Sep: La La Land. Outdoor screening. 21 Sep: The Great Gatsby. Outdoor screening. Museum, historic rooms and shop Mon-Thur 12.30pm-4.30pm; Sun noon5pm. Admission free, charges for special events. www.fulhampalace.org. Bishop’s Avenue, SW6 6EA. T: 020-7736 3233. Off map. Station: Putney Bridge.
Go Ape Alexandra Palace A new treetop obstacle course with ladders, bridges and zip lines has opened for kids at this grand palace atop a hill, which has beautiful views of London. Make a day of it and enjoy the boating lake nearby. Daily from 9am. Adult from £33; child from £25. www.goape.co.uk. Alexandra Palace, Alexandra Palace Way, N22 7AY. T: 0330057 2329. Off map. Station: Alexandra Palace.
Go Ape Battersea Park Make like a monkey at this treetop adventure playground, which is suitable for children over six and adults. Negotiate ladders, bridges and zip lines while attached to a harness. Staff are on hand throughout the three-and-a-half-hour experience. Daily from 8.30am. Adult £35; child £27. www.goape.co.uk. Battersea Park, SW11 4NJ. T: 0330-057 2329. Off map. Station: Battersea Park.
Golden Hinde II A full-size reconstruction of Sir Francis Drake’s 16th-century vessel, in which he circumnavigated the globe. Events include dressing up in historical costumes, quiz and jazz nights and battle workshops. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Guided tour adult £7; child £5. www.goldenhinde.com. 1 Pickfords Wharf, Clink St, SE1 9DG. T: 020-7403 0123. E10. Station: London Bridge.
Ham House and Gardens One of Europe’s greatest 17th-century houses, with gardens that are said to be haunted. Please check for times. Adult £10.80; child £5.40. www.national trust.org.uk. Ham St, Surrey, TW10 7RS. T: 0208940 1950. Off map. Station: Richmond.
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Handel & Hendrix in London The former homes of Anglo-German composer George Frideric Handel and American guitarist Jimi Hendrix. See where Handel lived and composed for 36 years, plus Hendrix’s bedroom. Regular evening events, including recitals. 23 Sep: Hendrix at The Scotch. A night of Hendrix-inspired cocktails, plus three live bands and a DJ playing 1960s sounds (p. 24). Mon-Sat 11pm-6pm. Adult £10; child £5. www.handelhouse.org. 25 Brook St, W1K 4HB. T: 020-7495 1685. D6. Station: Bond Street.
SIGHTSEEING HMS Belfast
The London Bridge Experience & Tombs
The London Dungeon
Permanently moored on the River Thames, this ship is Europe’s only surviving World War II cruiser. In service until 1965, it’s now a reminder of Britain’s naval heritage, with lots of on-deck fun for all ages. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £14.50; child £7.25. www.iwm.org.uk. The Queen’s Walk, off Tooley St, SE1 2JH. T: 020-7940 6300. E11. Station: London Bridge.
Learn about the exciting history of the 1,700-yearold London Bridge site, which was built in around 53AD and has been the scene of murder, intrigue, collapse and fire. Special effects and actors bring this spine-tingling scary attraction to life. Tickets also include admission to the London Tombs, under the bridge, where hundreds of bodies were uncovered from the plague pit. Paranormal investigators have witnessed many ghostly sightings here. It is not suitable for young children or the faint-hearted. Please check for times and prices. www.thelondonbridgeexperience.com. 2-4 Tooley St, SE1 2SY. T: 020-7403 6333. E10. Station: London Bridge.
This uniquely thrilling walkthrough attraction on the South Bank will whisk you back to the capital’s most perilous past. See, hear, feel and (ahem) smell the chillingly amusing characters of the ‘bad old days’ as they come to life before you through scary shows, live actors, scenes and rides. The shows are based on real London history and legends. Not suitable for small children or the faint-hearted. Joint tickets with SEA LIFE London, Coca-Cola London Eye, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! available. Please check for times and prices. www.thedungeons.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 020-7654 0809. F8. Station: Waterloo/Embankment.
Houses of Parliament The site of Parliament since 1265 and still a royal palace; the current building including Big Ben was built in the 19th century. Tours every Sat; 1 Sep and From 15 Sep. Advance audio tour adult £18.50, child £7.50 (first child free); guided tour adult £25.50, child £11. On the day audio tour adult £20.50, child £8.50 (first child free); guided tour adult £28, child £12. www.parliament.uk/visit. Palace of Westminster, Parliament Square, SW1A 0AA. T: 020-7219 4114. F8. Station: Westminster.
The Jewel Tower Built around 1365 to house Edward III’s treasures, this is one of only two buildings left from the medieval Palace of Westminster after an 1834 fire. Don’t miss the ornate ceiling carvings. Please check for prices and times. www.english-heritage. org.uk. Abingdon St, SW1P 3JX. T: 020-7222 2219. F8. Station: Westminster.
Keats House This beautiful 19th-century home belonged to the Romantic poet John Keats. See his paintings, books, letters and household items, plus the engagement ring he gave to his sweetheart Fanny Brawne. Wed-Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £6.50; child free. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/keatshouse hampstead. Keats Grove, NW3 2RR. T: 020-7332 3868. Off map. Station: Hampstead.
Kensington Palace This royal residence sits in Kensington Gardens and was Princess Diana’s last home. To 28 Feb 2018: Diana: Her Fashion Story. An exhibition dedicated to the style of the ‘People’s Princess’. To 12 Nov: Enlightened Princesses: Caroline, Augusta, Charlotte and the Shaping of the Modern World. This exhibition shines a spotlight on three women who married into the British royal family. Daily, please check for times. Adult £17; child free. www.hrp.org.uk. Kensington Gardens, W8 4PX. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington/Queensway.
Kenwood On the edge of Hampstead Heath, Kenwood House with its landscaped gardens is a hidden gem. Admire Robert Adams’ interiors and an art collection made up of Rembrandt, Vermeer and Gainsborough. Free admission. Please check for times. www.english-heritage.org.uk/kenwood. Hampstead Lane, NW3 7JR. T: 020-8348 1286. Off map. Station: Hampstead.
KidZania London Parents take a back seat here as children take charge. In an area three times the size of Trafalgar Square, two storeys contain every imaginable activity for kids of all ages, including TV and animation studios, a chocolate factory, pit lane and aviation academy – there’s even a tattoo parlour. Occasional events for adults; please check. Daily from 10am, check for closing times. Adult from £15; child from £19. www.london. kidzania.com. Westfield London Shopping Centre, Ariel Way, W12 7GA. T: 0330-131 3333. Map inset. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.
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SIGHTSEEING Coca-Cola London Eye
ZSL London Zoo
Madame Tussauds
This magnificent London icon is one of the world’s largest observation wheels – the structure is 443ft tall and the wheel has a diameter of 394ft. Interactive screens in each pod give an insight into the landmarks on view. Please check online for details of special packages that you can book such as the Champagne Experience, Private Capsules, Proposal Capsule and Cupid’s Capsule. Joint tickets with SEA LIFE London, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! available. Please check for times and prices. www.londoneye.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. F8. Station: Waterloo.
Immerse yourself in the animal kingdom at the world’s oldest scientific zoo, which has more than 750 species. As well as an aquarium, penguin beach and a chance to see endangered Sumatran tigers, you can visit the Land of the Lions enclosure, which is home to Asiatic lions in surroundings designed to resemble an Indian national park. To 3 Sep: Zoorassic Park. Dinosaurinspired exhibition where you can travel back over 65 million years to the Mesozoic period. To 9 Sep: Summer Sleepover. 17 Sep: London Zoo Stampede. A 5km and 10km race. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £29.75; child £22. www.zsl.org. Regent’s Park, NW1 4RY. T: 020-7722 3333. C6. Station: Camden Town.
Celebrated home of life-sized wax figures depicting famous people from the worlds of entertainment, politics, sport and history, from the Queen to Adele. Don’t miss the permanent Star Wars exhibition, featuring 11 sets from the film; a 5.5m-high animatronic head in Kong: Skull Island and will.i.am from The Voice UK. Detective fans will enjoy The Sherlock Holmes Experience as well as the evening show The Game’s Afoot, an immersive attraction with actors, illusion and sound effects. Alien Escape. A new interactive exhibit. Joint tickets with SEA LIFE London, London Dungeon, London Eye and Shrek’s Adventure! available. Please check for times. Adult £35; child £30. www.madame tussauds.com/london. Marylebone Rd, NW1 5LR. T: 0871-894 3000. C6. Station: Baker Street.
The Monument This beautiful stone column standing in the heart of the City was built in 1677 to commemorate the 1666 Great Fire of London. Climb the 311 steps to its observation gallery. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £4.50; child £2.30. Joint tickets with the Tower Bridge Exhibition available. www.themonument. org.uk. Monument St, EC3R 6BD. T: 020-7626 2717. E10. Station: Monument.
The O2 Huge entertainment complex in Greenwich. To 3 Sep: Star Wars Identities. As you browse 200 original sketches, models and props from the popular film franchise, you’ll be asked questions about your personality – to reveal which Star Wars character you most identify with. Mon-Sat 10am-6pm. Tickets £10-£25. www.theo2. co.uk. Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2000. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.
Old Royal Naval College This Baroque masterpiece, part of the Maritime Greenwich World Heritage Site, is the home of British naval training, with costumed characters and tours. Don’t miss the magnificent ceiling in the Painted Hall. During the temporary conservation project, you can see the ceiling up close on an hour-long tour from an observation deck (adult £10; child £5). Check for guided tours. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.ornc.org. King William Walk, SE10 9NN. T: 020-8269 4799. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.
Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park Formerly the site of the London 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games, this park includes an aquatics centre and the ArcelorMittal Orbit observation tower. There are also attractive gardens with wild flowers, planted for the transformation of the area. Please check website for sporting events (p. 22). Park open 24 hours daily. Admission free. www.queenelizabeth olympicpark.co.uk. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2ST. T: 0800-072 2110. Off map. Station: Stratford.
Ripley’s Believe It or Not! This curiosity-filled museum, with more than 700 unusual historical artefacts, curiosities and art, is a hit across the globe. Explore an intriguing range of oddities over six floors, including a shrunken head, an albino alligator, the world’s tallest man, a huge portrait of the Beatles made from more than 10,000 postage stamps and a mirror maze. Daily 10am-midnight. Adult £27.99; child £20.99. www.ripleyslondon.com. 1 Piccadilly Circus, W1J 0DA. T: 020-3238 0022. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus. 28 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017
SIGHTSEEING Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew
St James’s Palace
St Martin-in-the-Fields
Better known as Kew Gardens, this botanical research centre and World Heritage Site contains plants from across the globe, with Victorian tropical greenhouses and a Chinese pagoda. The treetop walkway offers great views. Experience The Hive, an enormous aluminium structure modelled on a beehive surrounded by wildflowers. Don’t miss Kew Palace, King George III’s former home with kitchens and garden. Admission is free with Kew Garden tickets. 6 Sep: Pulp Fiction. Outdoor screening. 7 Sep: Grease. Outdoor screening. Daily from 10am, please check for closing times. From 18 Sep: Sculpt at Kew. Outdoor sculpture trail (p. 22). Adult £15; child £3.50; charges for special exhibitions. www.kew.org. Richmond, Surrey, TW9 3AB. T: 020-8332 5655. Off map. Station: Kew Gardens.
One of London’s oldest palaces, St James’s Palace was constructed in the 14th century and has been home to royalty. Closed to the public. www.royal. gov.uk. Marlborough Rd, SW1A 1BS. E7. Station: St James’s Park.
Landmark Palladian church close to Trafalgar Square, though there has been a church on the site since the medieval period. The church has close links with the Royal Family, 10 Downing Street and the Admiralty. Look out for tours, a brass-rubbing centre and live classical music (some free). Holy Communion given daily and classical music performed weekly by candlelight. It also has a Café in the Crypt, and a Café in the Courtyard on the open terrace directly behind the church. Check for opening times and concert details. Admission free; brass rubbing from £4.50. www.stmartin-inthe-fields.org. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
St Katharine Docks This central London marina dates back to the 11th century and is tucked away by the Tower of London. The vibrant waterside destination is lined with regular markets, shops, galleries and restaurants and is well worth a visit. www.skdocks. co.uk. 50 St Katharine’s Way, E1W 1LA. T: 020-7264 5287. Off map. Station: Tower Hill.
The Royal Institution of Great Britain Grade I-listed Georgian building housing a museum about the institution’s 15 Nobel Prize-winning scientists. Visit its free Faraday Museum and you can see scientists at work, too. Check the website for its programme of talks. Mon-Fri 9am-6pm. Admission free; charges for talks. www.rigb.org. 21 Albemarle St, W1S 4BS. T: 020-7409 2992. E6. Station: Green Park.
The Royal Mews Built by John Nash in 1825, this beautiful part of Buckingham Palace houses the Queen’s vehicles and horses, including the Diamond Jubilee State Coach. Witness daily life and learn about the mews’ history. Mon-Sat 10am-5pm. Adult £10; child £5.80. www.royalcollection.org.uk. Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 1QH. T: 0303-123 7302. F6. Station: Victoria.
The Royal Observatory The home of Greenwich Mean Time and London’s only planetarium, which has regular astronomy workshops and Observatory tours. Learn about time in the Peter Harrison Galleries and watch planetarium shows throughout the day. The Sky Tonight. Daily planetarium show that explores the moon, constellations, planets and deep space objects. Meridian Line and Observatory daily 10am-5pm. Adult £9.50; child £5. www.rmg.co.uk. Blackheath Ave, SE10 8XJ. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich/Maze Hill/Cutty Sark.
SEA LIFE London One of Europe’s largest aquariums with more than 500 species of global marine life and walk-through tank tunnels, including a scary glass walkway above 16 sharks. Ocean Invaders: Enter the World of Jellyfish. Get up close to a swarm of jellyfish at this permanent exhibition. You can also snorkel with sharks (from £80 including admission). Please check for times and prices. Joint tickets with London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! available. www.sealife.co.uk/london. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0333-321 2001. F8. Station: Westminster/Waterloo.
Shrek’s Adventure! Ride the magical 4D ‘DreamWorks Tours’ bus to step into live actor fairytale-themed shows where you can meet the characters from the much-loved films. Joint tickets with London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and SEA LIFE London available. Please check for times. Adult £27.50; child £22. www.shreks adventure.com. Riverside Building, County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-221 2837. F8. Station: Waterloo. www.wheretraveler.com 29
SIGHTSEEING St Paul’s Cathedral
18 Stafford Terrace
Sir Christopher Wren’s magnificent 300-year-old cathedral sits on Ludgate Hill at the highest point of the City of London and is a Grade I-listed building. It has stunning mosaics. Climb up the dome to the Whispering Gallery and a further 271 steps to the Golden Gallery for a classic London panorama. Then head down to the crypt, with its monuments to Wren and Lord Nelson. Don’t miss Oculus: An Eye into St Paul’s, a 270-degree film experience, for an excellent overview. Free tours. Check for occasional organ recitals. Mon-Sat 8.30am-4.30pm. Adult £18; child £8. www.stpauls. co.uk. St Paul’s Churchyard, EC4M 8AD. T: 020-7246 8350. D9/10. Station: St Paul’s.
From 8 Sep: This house gives an insight into the
personal lives of Punch cartoonist Edward Linley Sambourne, his wife Marion, their two children and their live-in servants, who lived here from 1875. Wed, Sat-Sun pre-booked tours 11am, drop-in 2pm5.30pm. Adult from £7; child from £5. www.rbkc. gov.uk. 18 Stafford Terrace, W8 7BH. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.
Tower Bridge Exhibition This breathtaking bridge, designed in 1884, is one of London’s most famous landmarks. You can tour the engine rooms with a knowledgeable guide and do yoga on the glass walkways, 42m
above the River Thames. Joint tickets with The Monument available. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Please check for prices and bridge lift times. www.towerbridge.org.uk. Tower Bridge Rd, SE1 2UP. T: 020-7403 3761. E11. Station: Tower Hill.
Tower of London This historic landmark includes the Bloody Tower, Traitors’ Gate and the Jewel House, home of the Crown Jewels. Enjoy free guided tours by ‘Beefeaters’ (Yeoman Warders). Book ahead online to attend the nightly Ceremony of the Keys, which dates back to 1340 (tickets are free). To 20 Oct: Defend the Tower. Live historical re-enactment. Sun-Mon 10am-5.30pm; TueSat 9am-5.30pm. Adult £21.50; child £9.70. www.hrp.org.uk/tower-of-london. Tower Hill, EC3N 4AB. T: 0844-482 7799. E11. Station: Tower Hill.
Up at The O2 Prepare for an unforgettable 90-minute experience which takes you on an uplifting expedition across the roof of The O2. From the viewing platform at the top you can enjoy spectacular 360-degree views of the River Thames, Emirates Air Line, Canary Wharf and beyond. Please check for times and wheelchair access. From £30. www.theo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2680. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.
The Vault Located under the old Coutts Bank, this vault was originally used to protect the Queen’s treasures. Now part of Hard Rock Cafe, it’s home to iconic rock ‘n’ roll memorabilia including the Gaultier bustier from Madonna’s Blond Ambition tour, and musical instruments of the stars. Daily 11.30am10.30pm. Admission free. www.hardrock.com. Hard Rock Cafe London, 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 020-7514 1700. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
The View from The Shard Ascend the tallest building in Western Europe in a high-speed ‘kaleidoscopic’ lift. At 309m, on a clear day you can see as far as Windsor – and if you can’t see four major landmarks you can visit again for free. If you pre-book you can also do yoga every Sat 8.30am (£45). It also hosts silent discos every Sat 10pm. Daily 10am-10pm. Advance adult £25.95, child £19.95; on the day adult £30.95, child £24.95. www.theviewfromtheshard.com. 32 London Bridge St, SE1 9SG. T: 0844-499 7111. E10. Station: London Bridge.
Warner Bros. Studio Tour London Explore behind the scenes of the legendary Harry Potter films in The Making of Harry Potter tour. Visitors can witness iconic sets including the Great Hall, Hagrid’s Hut, Diagon Alley and a recreation of Platform 9¾. It’s a great insight into filmmaking. To 27 Sep: Wizarding Wardrobes. See thousands of costumes from Hogwarts’ school robes to Hermione’s Yule Ball gown. Please check for times. Adult £39; child £31. Booking is essential. www.wbstudiotour.co.uk. Studio Tour Drive, Leavesden, Hertfordshire, WD25 7LS. T: 0845-084 0900. Off map. Station: Euston to Watford Junction, then shuttle bus.
Wellington Arch Climb to the viewing galleries of this magnificent arch for panoramic views over the Royal Parks and Houses of Parliament, plus exhibitions. Joint tickets available with Apsley House. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £4.70; child £2.80. www.english-heritage. org.uk. Apsley Way, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7JZ. T: 020-7930 2726. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner. 30 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017
SIGHTSEEING Westminster Abbey
MBNA Thames Clippers
Thamesjet
Consecrated in 1065, this abbey is the crowning and burial site of most English monarchs, plus the wedding venue of William and Kate. See the spectacular paintings, stained-glass windows and monumental sculptures. It also houses Poets’ Corner, the burial place of Charles Dickens and other famous writers. Mon-Sat, please check for times. Adult £22; child £9. www.westminsterabbey.org. 20 Dean’s Yard, SW1P 3PA. T: 020-7222 5152. F7. Station: Westminster/St James’s Park.
The fastest and most frequent fleet on the river, with regular departures from major London piers. Oyster cards are valid. Hop-on and hop-off adult £18.50; child £9.25. www.thamesclippers.com. T: 020-7001 2200.
Adrenaline-fuelled speedboat experience where you’ll enjoy sightseeing, speed and aquabatics. Departs from Westminster Pier. From 11am. Adult from £39; child from £29. www.thamesjet.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7740 0400.
WWT London Wetland Centre This 104-acre wildlife reserve has a Water’s Edge Café overlooking lakes, ponds and gardens which are home to more than 100 species of rare and wild birds. Otters are fed daily at 11am and 2pm. Daily 9.30am-5.30pm. Adult £12.26; child £6.75. www.wwt.org.uk. Queen Elizabeth’s Walk, SW13 9WT. T: 020-8409 4400. Off map. Station: Barnes.
FESTIVALS & EVENTS Londinium Travel back to Roman London through a spectacular variety of themed events and activities, as the City celebrates its Roman heritage during the Londinium festival. Check for times and prices. www.visitlondon.com.
Thames River Services This hop-on, hop-off service with live commentary departs from Westminster Pier to Greenwich/ Thames Barrier 10am-4pm; from St Katharine’s to Greenwich/Thames Barrier 10.20pm-4.20pm. Check for prices (35 per cent online discount Mon-Fri). www.thamesriverservices.london. Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7930 4097. F8. Station: Westminster.
TOURS & GUIDED WALKS Big Bus Tours Daily sightseeing trips aboard a fleet of open-top double-decker buses. Tickets are valid for 24 hours. A one-day orientation tour includes three walking tours. Adult £35; child £18. www.bigbustours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7808 6753.
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Open House London 16-17 Sep: This annual city-wide architecture and
design festival grants you access to more than 750 buildings, many of which are not usually open to the public (p. 20). www.openhouselondon.org.uk.
RIVER TRIPS Circular Cruise Westminster Circular Cruise Westminster operates a hop-on hop-off sightseeing service from Westminster Pier. Boats depart every 40 minutes for Embankment, Festival, Bankside and St Katharine’s Piers (for Tower of London), returning non-stop to Westminster. To 3 Sep 11am-6pm; from 4 Sep 11am-5pm. Adult single £10, return £14; child single £5, return £7. www.circularcruise.london. Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7936 2033. F8. Station: Westminster.
City Cruises Daily guided sightseeing tours on the Thames between Westminster, Waterloo, Tower and Greenwich piers. River Red Rover is an all-day hop-on, hop-off sightseeing service. Thames Circular Cruise is a 50-minute sightseeing service from Tower Pier or Bankside Pier to Westminster and back. London Showboat cabaret cruise departs from Westminster Pier and includes a meal with live music Fri-Sat. Other cruises available. Please check for times and prices. www.citycruises.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7740 0400.
London Duck Tours Ideal if you’re keen for an amphibious adventure. See some of London’s best-loved sights on land before a thrilling splashdown on the River Thames. Adult £27; child £19. www.londonduck tours.co.uk. 55 York Rd, SE1 7NJ. T: 020-7928 3132. F8. Station: Waterloo.
London Eye River Cruise Live commentary on a 40-minute sightseeing river cruise. Daily 10.45am-7.45pm. Adult £13.15; child £6.50. Discounted joint tickets with the London Eye available. www.londoneye.com. London Eye Pier, South Bank, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.
TAKE AN INTERACTIVE JOURNEY THROUGH LONDON’S SPOOKY HISTORY
TheLondonBridgeExperience.com
The London Bridge Experience, 2-4 Tooley Street, London Bridge, London SE1 2SY
FREE audio guides available
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SIGHTSEEING
London’s oldest and best Taxi Tour company offers more London’s oldest andthan best200 Taxitours Tourof London and the countryside company offers more than 200 tours of Sit backLondon and relax asthe your Registered driver and countryside Guide takes you in an Iconic Sit back and relax asaround your Registered driver Licensed London Black Taxi Guide takes you around in an Iconic Licensed London Black Taxi Choose from 3,4,5,and 8 hour London tours. Besidesfrom the 3,4,5,and main attractions Choose 8 hour explore Londonparts tours. of London tourists never get to see. Besides the main attractions explore parts of London tourists never get to see. General Sightseeing tours, Themed tours include Harry Potter, Beatles, James tours Bond, General Sightseeing tours, Themed Dr Who,Harry JackPotter, the Ripper, Ghost tours, plus include Beatles, James Bond, many more. Dr Who, Jack the Ripper, Ghost tours, plus many more. Countryside tours including Stonehenge, Oxford, Bath, Windsor, Downton Abbey Countryside tours including Stonehenge, Oxford, Bath, Windsor, Downton Abbey
Golden Tours
Historic and royal guided walk. Please check for prices. Daily 11am. www.bigbustours.com. Depart from Big Bus stop six, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7808 6753. Station: Charing Cross.
From day excursions to overnight city breaks, the London experts offer quality tour experiences from London to popular locations such as Bath and Leeds Castle. The company offers an unrivalled range of tours and services. Please check for times and prices. www.goldentours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039.
Billingsgate Roman House & Baths Beneath the cobbled pathways of the Square Mile lies a rich Roman history that’s survived 2,000 years of building, fires and bombings. Lower Thames Street is home to one of Roman London’s most fascinating remains – Billingsgate Roman Bathhouse, which was discovered in 1848. Explore this insight into ancient life in the City on a 45-minute guided tour and discover the remains of the Roman Bathhouse. Adult £8; child £6. Please check for times. www.museumoflondon.org.uk. 101 Lower Thames St, EC3R 6DL. E11. Station: Tower Hill.
Capital Taxi Tours A Blue Badge or City of London qualified guide drives you around in a taxi for up to five people. Choose from London tours by day or night, trips outside the city and themed tours including a Doctor Who one with locations from the TV series, and one for TV’s Downton Abbey fans. Prices vary and are per taxi. www.capitaltaxi tours.co.uk. T: 020-8590 3621.
AT HOME IN ANTIQUITY LEIGHTON HOUSE MUSEUM 7 JULY – 29 OCTOBER 2017
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32 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017
GoToMidtown Tours More than 100 themed 45-minute free tours around Bloomsbury and Holborn. Most walks do not require booking. 10am & 1pm walks start at the orange information kiosk outside Holborn Tube station. www.bee-midtown.org. 88-94 Kingsway, WC2B 6AA. T: 020-7078 7077. D7/8. Station: Holborn.
Jack the Ripper Tours
A variety of themed walks not offered by other companies, focusing on everything from Fleet Street – the home of journalism – to Smithfield Market and City gardens. Free-£12. www.cityof londonguides.com. Departure points vary.
Evan Evans
London Chocolate Tours
The oldest and largest sightseeing company in London has been accompanying visitors on city tours and out-of-town excursions since 1930. Visit everywhere from Warwick Castle to Bath. Check for times and prices. www.evanevanstours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7950 1777.
AL M A - TADEM A
See the sights aboard an open-top bus. Live guided (Essential Tour) or multilingual audio commentary (all routes) tours let you hop-on and hop-off. One-day, 24-hour and 48-hour tickets. Please check for prices. www.goldentours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039.
Blue Badge Guide Richard Jones of London Walking Tours devised these popular two-hour walks, offering an intriguing look at the serial killer Jack the Ripper. Numbers are limited in order to give participants a better experience. Booking essential. Daily 7pm from outside Exit 4 of Aldgate East. £10. www.jack-the-ripper-tour.com. T: 020-8530 8443. Off map. Station: Aldgate East.
City of London Guides Walks
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Golden Tours Open-Top Bus Tours
Sample truffles and ganaches in Mayfair’s finest chocolatiers on this two-hour tour. Booking essential. Sun 12.30pm. £15 for Where London readers (usually £39). Departs from The Ritz London by Green Park. www.tourguides.org.uk. Green Park Tube station. T: 020-8526 7755. E6.
She came, she saw, she conquered Visitors to Windsor Castle shouldn’t miss Conquer the Tower (to 30 Sep; p. 35), a daily guided tour of the fortress’ 800-year-old Round Tower. Your guide will take you up the 200 steps to the top of the landmark, from which you’ll have a close-up view of the castle’s flagpole, which flies the Royal Standard when the Queen is in residence, and the Union Flag when she’s elsewhere. You can also enjoy views of parkland, the River Thames and Windsor town, while in the distance you can spot London’s skyline and neighbouring counties. During your visit, explore the castle, which is home to the medieval St George’s Chapel, and the state and royal apartments, which are arranged around a quadrangle.
WINDSOR CASTLE © PETER PACKER/THE ROYAL COLLECTION/HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II
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Big Bus Walking Tours
SIGHTSEEING The London Helicopter Tour
Royal Opera House
Discover the capital from the unique perspective of This is one of the world’s leading opera venues a helicopter, with its uninterrupted views. Departing and also home to the Royal Ballet company. from London’s only heliport, glide above the Backstage Tour. Tour behind the scenes for an Thames, taking in iconic landmarks including the insight into the venue’s history, where you may Tower of London, St Paul’s and The Shard. Choose even catch a production in rehearsal. Most days from the 12-minute Buzz, 18-minute Sights or 10.30am, 12.30pm & 2.30pm, but please check. 30-minute Max tour – or spook yourself with an Adult £12; child £8.50. www.royaloperahouse.org. 18-minute ‘open door’ ride (£400 per person). Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Prices start at £150 per seat for a shared tour. Covent Garden. W WWWWWWWWWWW www.thelondonhelicopter.com. The POD Building, WWWW WWWWWWWW Bridges Court, SW11 2RE. T: 020-7887 2626. W WWWWW See London by Night Tour Off map. Station: Clapham Junction. Take a bus ride around the West End and City in the evening for a different view of the capital, with London Horror Tours W WWWWW WWWWWWW W WWWbuildings WW WWW many of its iconic illuminated. Regular Be spooked by ghost stories and tales of Jack the Ripper, Sweeney Todd and the Krays on tours run by Dr Jack, an actor, entertainer and former guide. Please visit its Facebook page for more information, and call for times and prices. Departure points vary. T: 07722-247 660.
London Literary Pub Crawl See where the giants of the London literary world ate, drank and worked. This unique tour is artistled and arranged by the not-for-profit charity, the Maverick Theatre Company. Starting in Fitzrovia and ending in Soho, it includes pubs and bars associated with British classic and contemporary writers. Tickets £24. www.londonliterarypub crawl.com. 12 Fouberts Place, off Carnaby St, W1F 7PA. T: 020-8090 5082. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
departures from outside The Ritz hotel. Tours last 90 minutes. Daily 7.30pm, 8pm, 8.30pm, 9.15pm, 9.45pm & 10.15pm. Adult £18; child £10. www.seelondonbynight.com. 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7183 4744. E6. Station: Green Park.
Shakespeare’s Globe This reconstruction of Shakespeare’s original Elizabethan Globe Theatre has the city’s only thatched roofs, while the Sam Wanamaker Playhouse is a candle lit performance space. Daily, please check for times. Exhibition and Globe theatre tour adult £16; child £9. www.shakespearesglobe.com. 21 New Globe Walk, Bankside, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7902 1400. E10. Station: Blackfriars.
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London Tailored Tours Private tours for small groups, run by Londoners. Themed tours include Borough Market, fashion and Brick Lane. Please check for times and prices. www.londontailoredtours.com. T: 020-3289 0542.
London Walks London’s oldest walking tour company offers more than 300 walks. Each takes around two hours; departure points vary and there’s no need to book. As well as Jack the Ripper, Harry Potter and ghost walks, you can join a Secret Village walk around St Paul’s and Clerkenwell. Adult £10; child free when accompanied by an adult. Mon 2.30pm. www.walks.com. T: 020-7624 3978.
Original London Sightseeing Walk Walks depart daily from the Original London Visitor Centre. Choose from Changing the Guard at 10am), Rock‘n’Roll at 1pm and Jack the Ripper at 3.30pm (from Tower Hill Station). £9.50 per walk, or free with an Original London Sightseeing Tour. An Explore Walks Pass, which grants access to all three walks over a 48-hour period, costs £19. www.the originaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.
The Original Tour With more than 65 years’ experience, these live and multilingual open-top guided bus tours take you to the city’s best attractions, allowing you to hop-on and off at more than 80 stops. Its original 24-hour tour includes three free walking tours and a Thames River cruise pass. 24-hour adult £32, child £15; 48-hour adult £42, child £20. www.theoriginal tour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, Trafalgar Square, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.
Royal Albert Hall Tours Take a one-hour Grand Tour of this Victorian concert hall. Tours take place most days throughout the year, but please call for times. Adult £13.75; child £6.75. www.royalalberthall.com. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7959 0558. F4. Station: South Kensington.
020 7219 4114 www.wheretraveler.com 33
SIGHTSEEING Wembley Tours Go behind the scenes at this famous football stadium and concert venue. The 75-minute tour takes you inside the dressing rooms and through the players’ tunnel. Have your photo taken with a replica of the FA Cup. From 10am; check for dates. Adult £20; child £12. www.wembleystadium.com/ wembley-tours. Wembley Stadium, HA9 0WS. T: 0800-169 9933. Off map. Station: Wembley Park.
Westways Carriage Horses Get collected from your hotel and experience the sights from the comfort of a horse-drawn carriage. £475 per carriage. www.westwayscarriagehorses. co.uk. T: 020-8572 3155.
Yonda You’ll feel like a local as you drive a car around famous sights and little-known streets. The car is fitted with technology that gives you directions on a satnav and commentary. Congestion Charge is included in the price. £60 per 90-minute tour. www.goyonda.com. T: 020-3621 5662.
OUT OF TOWN Ashmolean Museum of Art and Archaeology Britain’s first public museum dates back to 1683, when politician Elias Ashmole left his collection of antiquities and curiosities to the University of Oxford. See archaeological artefacts, pre-Raphaelite paintings, Egyptian mummies and Oliver Cromwell’s death mask. Tue-Sun 10am-5pm. Free admission, charges for special exhibitions. www.ashmolean.org. Beaumont St, Oxford, OX1 2PH. T: 01865-278000. Off map. Station: Paddington to Oxford.
London looks amazing, beautifully lit up at night
See By Night
Blenheim Palace See three centuries of treasures in magnificent state rooms at this Baroque palace, the birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill. The palace is set in 2,100 acres of ‘Capability’ Brown parkland and formal gardens. Palace daily 10.30am-5.30pm; park daily 9am-6pm; formal gardens daily 10.30am-6pm. Adult £24.90; child £13.90. www.blenheimpalace.com. Woodstock, Oxfordshire, OX20 1PP. T: 01993810530. Off map. Paddington to Oxford, then bus S3.
Hampton Court Palace
Departing daily from Green Park bus stop next to the Ritz Hotel
at 19:30, 20:00, 20:30, 21:15, 21:45 and 22:15 Spectacular live guided tours of London by night
Adult - £18 Child - £10
Private tours available for groups day or night
Tel: 0844 504 3285 +44 (0)20 7183 4744
www.seelondonbynight.com 34 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017
Once home to King Henry VIII, this Tudor palace and maze is set in 60 acres of parkland. The Magic Garden. Children’s play area with sections representing myths, legends, stories and objects that can be found at Hampton Court. Palace, formal gardens and maze daily 10am-6pm. Adult £20.90; child £10.45. www.hrp.org.uk. East Molesey, Surrey, KT8 9AU. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Hampton Court.
Leeds Castle Fairytale 900-year-old castle with a moat, gardens and parkland. Lose yourself in the yew maze and see 100 species of birds in the aviary. Grounds & gardens daily 10am-6pm; Castle daily 10.30am5.30pm. Adult £24.90; child £16.90. www.leedscastle.com. Maidstone, Kent, ME17 1PL. T: 01622765 400. Off map. Station: Victoria to Bearsted.
Osterley Park and House Explore this beautiful country home decorated as it would have been in the 1780s, then stroll around its formal gardens or stop for a snack in the stable tearoom. Regular after-dark tours. House 11am5pm; garden 10am-5pm. Adult £10.90; child £5.45. www.nationaltrust.org.uk. Jersey Rd, Isleworth, Middlesex, TW7 4RB. T: 020-8232 5050. Off map. Station: Osterley/Isleworth.
ough Castle Hillsborough Castle
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Palace of Holyroodhouse The Queen’s official residence in Scotland stands at the end of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile, against the spectacular backdrop of Arthur’s Seat. Highlights include Mary, Queen of Scots’ chamber. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £12.50; child £7.50. www.royal collection.org.uk. Canongate, The Royal Mile, Edinburgh, EH8 8DX. T: 0303-123 7306. Off map. Station: Edinburgh Waverley, then a 15-minute walk.
Stonehenge The world’s most famous stone circle and a World Heritage Site, Stonehenge is more than 5,000 years old. With obscure Neolithic origins, it is perfectly aligned with the rising sun at the solstice. English Heritage members get exclusive early-morning tours. The visitor centre has an exhibition, shop and café. Daily 9.30am-7pm. Adult £16.50; child £9.90. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Amesbury, Wiltshire, SP4 7DE. T: 0870-333 1181. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Salisbury, then bus or taxi.
Syon Park This stunning Palladian mansion set in parkland is home to the Duke of Northumberland. Don’t miss the incredible interiors, Grade I-listed landscape gardens and Great Conservatory. Please check for times and prices. www.syonpark.co.uk. Syon Park, Brentford, Middlesex, TW8 8JF. T: 020-8560 0882. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Syon Lane.
Waddesdon Manor Renaissance-style chateau built in the 19th century. Magnificent house and wine cellars, plus gardens and aviary. Please check for times and prices. www.waddesdonmanor.org. Near Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire, HP18 0JH. T: 01296-653226. Off map. Station: Marylebone to Aylesbury.
ESCAPE
THIS SUMMER
AT HAMPTON COURT PALACE
For a great family day out, lose yourself in one of the world’s oldest mazes then run wild in our Magic Garden.
Warwick Castle Built by William the Conqueror in 1068, this castle is now a family-friendly experience with landscaped gardens designed by ‘Capability’ Brown. Please check for times and prices. www.warwick-castle.com. Warwick, Warwickshire, CV34 6AH. Off map. Station: Warwick.
Watts Gallery Artists’ Village An Arts and Crafts gem in the Surrey Hills, with Victorian paintings and sculptures. Visit the Tea Shop, then wander to the Watts Chapel. Pottery Open Studios. Tue-Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £9.50 (Tue £4.75); child free. Down Lane, Compton, Surrey, GU3 1DQ. T: 01483-810235. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Guildford, then bus or taxi.
Windsor Castle The Queen’s weekend home includes glorious state apartments furnished with artworks by Rembrandt, Rubens and Canaletto. Changing the Guard alternate days 11am except Sun. To 30 Sep: Conquer the Tower. Daily guided tour of the fortress’ 800-year-old Round Tower (p. 32). Daily 9.30am-5.30pm. Adult £20.50; child £12. www.royalcollection.org.uk. Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 1NJ. T: 0303-123 7304. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Central or Windsor & Eton Riverside.
Woburn Abbey and Gardens Set in a 3,000 acre deer park, this historic house has been home to the earls and dukes of Bedford for nearly 400 years. Tour the house to find out more about its family history, art and antiques. Daily 11am5pm. Abbey, gardens and deer park adult £17; child £8.50. www.woburnabbey.co.uk. Woburn, Bedfordshire, MK17 9WA. T: 01525-290333. Off map Station: St Pancras to Flitwick.
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HELICOPTER SIGHTSEEING TOURS Advance booking only at www.thelondonhelicopter.com Call 020 7887 2626 or ask your concierge about booking www.wheretraveler.com 35
MUSEUMS & GALLERIES | THE GUIDE Clockwise from this image: The Tournament in Trafalgar Square by Jaime Hayón; Perspectives by John Pawson; Textile Field by Bouroullec; Areaware at Designjunction
London is the design capital of the world, as demonstrated this month at the London Design Festival. The annual extravaganza spans numerous locations and showcases hundreds of exhibitors, writes Emma Levine When the police are almost needed at an art installation in Trafalgar Square due to the crowd’s enthusiasm, it’s an event worth talking about. The incident in question was during the London Design Festival in 2006, when Tom Dixon gave away 500 of his polystyrene chairs to the public. The prestigious event (16-24 Sep) celebrates its 15th birthday this year, and continues to blend the interests of Londoners and visitors along with the design industry. It takes place across eight districts, from Mayfair to Islington. Its director Ben Evans says: ‘People have established, run, and successfully sold their businesses via the festival and our commissioning process for young designers showcases their work early on in their careers.’ It has commissioned designers to construct a temporary structure: Zaha Hadid was among the first, who designed her polished concrete Urban Nebula for the Southbank Centre. This year, Villa Walala is a huge, colourful installation in Broadgate by textile designer Camille Walala, complete with stress squeeze balls. www.londondesignfestival.com 36 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017
As part of the London Design Festival, Designjunction (21-24 Sep) brings cuttingedge products and interior design to King’s Cross. In five sites across this renovated neighbourhood, including Granary Square and Cubitt House, it’s a fusion of global furniture and technology brands alongside pop-up shops – there’s plenty for everyone. Each eye-catching piece forms a juxtaposition with its surroundings. At canalside Granary Square, an installation of Turkish ceramics in the central fountain space comprises pieces by more than 30 ceramic designers. If you want a souvenir, check out The Canopy, a pop-up venue offering tempting products from premium retail brands alongside emerging design labels. www.thedesignjunction.co.uk Over in the creative hub of east London, The Old Truman Brewery hosts another offshoot of the festival: the London Design Fair (21-24 Sep). Bringing together 500 exhibitors from 28 countries, it’s a vast array of established brands, independent designers and exhibitions,
attracting thousands of visitors, from architects to a design-savvy public. On display you’ll gaze at contemporary examples of lighting, furniture and conceptual installations – leaving you wondering if you can find space in your home for that chic Nordic lampshade or whimsical sculpture from Italy. www.londondesignfair.co.uk Look out for more displays in London’s museums and galleries that are part of the festival, including special events at the Victoria and Albert Museum (p. 40) and Ceramics in the City at The Geffrye (p. 38). As London Mayor Sadiq Khan says: ‘London Design Festival is a fantastic event which brings together designers from across the globe and underlines London as a cultural powerhouse.’
LONDON DESIGN FESTIVAL IMAGES COURTESY OF LONDON DESIGN FESTIVAL; AREAWARE COURTESY OF DESIGNJUNCTION
Craft in the capital
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T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81
MUSEUMS Arsenal Stadium Tours & Museum Football fans can enjoy a self-guided audio tour for a sneak peek inside the players’ changing rooms and tunnel and the Physio Room, or a Legends Tour led by ex-Arsenal players. Both include a visit to the museum. Self-guided tours Mon-Sat 9.30am-6pm; Sun 10am-4pm; Legends tour from 11am (check for dates). Museum open Mon-Sat 10.30am-6.30pm; Sun 10.30am-4.30pm; check for closures. Self-guided: adult £20, child £10. Legend: adult from £40, child from £20.75. Museum only: adult £10, child £7. www.arsenal. com/tours. Emirates Stadium, Hornsey Rd, N5 1BU. T: 020-7619 5000. Off map. Station: Arsenal.
Bank of England Museum Explore the story of the Bank of England from 1694 to the present day. Stories from the City: The Bank of England Through Literature. Celebrating the launch of the new Jane Austen £10 note. From 4 Sep: Till Time’s Last Sand – A History of the Bank of England. Featuring original documents and photos from 1694 to 2013. Mon-Fri 10am5pm; closed bank hols. Admission free. www.bank ofengland.co.uk/museum. Threadneedle St, EC2R 8AH. T: 020-7601 5545. D10. Station: Bank.
Churchill War Rooms
The Fan Museum
Fortified secret bunker where the prime minister, Sir Winston Churchill, worked during World War II. Discover his life in the Cabinet War Rooms. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £17.25; child (five-15) £8.60. www.iwm.org.uk. Clive Steps, King Charles St, SW1A 2AQ. T: 020-7930 6961. F7. Station: Westminster.
Museum dedicated to the art of the fan, with examples from the 12th century to the present day. To 16 Sep: All Creatures Great & Small. A variety of fans, from the 1700s onwards, all decorated with animals. Enjoy afternoon tea in the muralled orangery. Tue-Sat 11am-5pm; Sun noon-5pm. Adult £4; child (seven-16) £3. www.the fanmuseum.org.uk. 12 Crooms Hill, SE10 8ER. T: 020-8305 1441. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark.
Clink Prison Museum Former prison dating back to 1144, with hands-on exhibits that reveal London’s penal past. It’s said to be haunted by former inmates; check for Haunted Happenings events. Daily 10am-9pm. Adult £7.50; child £5.50. www.clink.co.uk. 1 Clink St, SE1 9DG. T: 020-7403 0900. E10. Station: London Bridge.
Design Museum Leading museum of design and architecture. Permanent display Designer Maker User. To 24 Sep: Hella Jongerius: Breathing Colour. Installation-based exhibition. To 15 Oct: California. Journey from 1960s counter-culture to Silicon Valley’s tech world. Daily 10am-6pm (last entry 5pm). Fri 1 Sep 10am-8pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.design museum.org. 224-238 Kensington High St, W8 6AG. T: 020-3862 5900. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.
Fashion and Textile Museum Highlighting contemporary fashion, textiles and jewellery from 1947 to the present day. To 1 Oct: The World of Anna Sui. See more than 100 looks from the American designer. Tue-Sat 11am-6pm; Thur 11am-8pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £9; child (under 12) free. www.ftmlondon.org. 83 Bermondsey St, SE1 3XF. T: 020-7407 8664. F11. Station: London Bridge.
Florence Nightingale Museum Located in St Thomas’ Hospital, learn about the work of the pioneering 19th-century British nurse and health reformer, known as ‘The Lady with the Lamp’. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £7.50; child (five-15) £3.80. www.florence-nightingale.co.uk. 2 Lambeth Palace Rd, SE1 7EW. T: 020-7620 0374. F8. Station: Waterloo/Westminster.
Benjamin Franklin House This charming 18th-century townhouse was the last remaining home of the American diplomat, inventor and Founding Father, with tours by costumed actors. 16-17 Sep: Open House London. Special weekend tours, part of the city-wide festival (p. 20). Architectural tours Mon; historical shows Wed-Sun (check for times). Shows: adult £8; under 16s free. Mon tours: adult £6; under 16s free. www. benjamin franklinhouse.org. 36 Craven St, WC2N 5NF. T: 020-7925 1405. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
JEAN-MICHEL BASQUIAT’S UNTITLED, 1982 COURTESY OF MUSEUM BOIJMANS VAN BEUNINGEN, ROTTERDAM © THE ESTATE OF JEAN-MICHEL BASQUIAT. LICENSED BY ARTESTAR, NEW YORK. PHOTO: STUDIO TROMP, ROTTERDAM
The British Museum An unrivalled collection of antiquities, plus regular talks, evening events and performances. From 14 Sep: Scythians: Warriors of Ancient Siberia. Exhibits exploring this nomadic tribe include mummified horses (p. 38). To 15 Oct: Desire, Love, Identity: Exploring LGBTQ Histories. Telling the story of gay culture. Sat-Thur 10am-5.30pm; Fri 10am-8.30pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.britishmuseum.org. Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8299. D7/8. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Russell Square.
The Cartoon Museum British cartoons, caricature and comic art (p. 16). Tue-Sun 10.30am-5.30pm. Adult £7; child free. www.cartoonmuseum.org. 35 Little Russell St, WC1A 2HH. T: 020-7580 8155. D8. Station: Holborn.
Charles Dickens Museum Former home of Victorian novelist Dickens, where he wrote classics including Oliver Twist. Tue-Sun 10am-5pm. Adult £9; child (6-16) £4. www.dickens museum.com. 48 Doughty St, WC1N 2LX. T: 020-7405 2127. C8. Station: Russell Square.
Chelsea FC Stadium Museum & Tours Interactive tour of Chelsea FC. Tours daily, every 30 minutes 10am-3pm; check for closures and monthly ex-players tours (from £70). Museum daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £22 (museum only £11); child £15 (£9). www.chelseafc.com/tours. Stamford Bridge, SW6 1HS. T: 0871-984 1955. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.
A New York state of mind In an age of anti-establishment activism, Basquiat: Boom for Real at Barbican Art Gallery (from 21 Sep; p. 42) is both poignant and timely. The Brooklyn-born self-taught graffiti artist Jean-Michel Basquiat, who died tragically aged 27 in 1988, thrived in Manhattan’s post-punk art scene. His vibrant, raw imagery – from drawing with his own blood to collaging old baseball cards – won the admiration of fellow artists, including Andy Warhol, with whom Basquiat collaborated. Basquiat created murals for nightclubs, and huge canvasses reflecting music, film and TV and its relationship to society. This longoverdue exhibition, the first UK retrospective in 20 years, brings together 100 of his works. www.wheretraveler.com 37
MUSEUMS & GALLERIES The Geffrye
Leighton House Museum
Formerly the Geffrye Museum (p. 36). Historic, restored 18th-century almshouses with rooms recreating English interiors from 1600 to the present day. Almshouse tours look at the lives of London’s poor and elderly in former times. Check for dates and times. Tour adult £4; under 16s free. Tue-Sun & bank hols, 10am-5pm. Admission free, charges for tours and special exhibitions. www.geffryemuseum.org.uk. 136 Kingsland Rd, E2 8EA. T: 020-7739 9893. Off map. Station: Hoxton.
The restored former home of Frederic, Lord Leighton is a museum of his life and work. To 29 Oct: Alma-Tadema: At Home in Antiquity. Exhibition of works by the Dutch painter. Wed-Mon 10am-5.30pm. Adult £14; child (12-17) £12. www.rbkc.gov.uk. 12 Holland Park, W14 8LZ. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: Kensington Olympia.
Learn about the history, stories and regimental heritage of the five regiments of the Foot Guards – the Grenadier, Coldstream, Scots, Irish and Welsh Guards – which today watch over the Royal Palaces. Daily 10am-4pm. Adult £6; child free. www.theguardsmuseum.com. Wellington Barracks, Birdcage Walk, SW1E 6HQ. T: 020-7414 3271. D5. Station: St James’s Park/Westminster.
Horniman Museum & Gardens See the collection of the Victorian tea trader, Frederick John Horniman, including an aquarium. To 29 Oct: The Robot Zoo. Amazing animals are recreated in robot form to reveal their inner workings. Daily 10.30am-5.30pm. Admission free; charges for aquarium and special exhibitions. www.horniman.ac.uk. 100 London Rd, SE23 3PQ. T: 020-8699 1872. Off map. Station: Forest Hill.
House of Illustration The UK’s only public gallery dedicated solely to illustration was founded by Sir Quentin Blake. From 22 Sep: Gerald Scarfe: Stage and Screen. Little-known production designs by the political cartoonist (p. 14). To 1 Oct: Quentin Blake: The Life of Birds. Expressive drawings. Adult £7.50; child £4. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. www.houseofillustration. org.uk. 2 Granary Square, N1C 4BH. T: 020-3696 2020. Off map. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.
Household Cavalry Museum Go behind the scenes of the ceremonial duties and roles of the Household Cavalry Regiments. Troopers with their horses work in the original 18th-century stables. Changing the Queen’s Life Guard on Horse Guards Parade Mon-Sat 11am, Sun 10am. Museum daily 10am-6pm. Check for closures. Adult £7; child £5. www.householdcavalry museum.co.uk. Horse Guards, Whitehall, SW1A 2AX. T: 020-7930 3070. E7/8. Station: Westminster.
Bond in Motion is the largest official exhibition of James Bond vehicles that feature in the renowned film series. Sun-Fri 10am-6pm; Sat 10am-7pm. Adult £14.50; child £9.50. www.londonfilmmuseum. com. 45 Wellington St, WC2E 7BN. T: 020-7202 7042. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
London Transport Museum Located in the Grade II-listed Flower Market, this museum displays the story of London’s transport system. Highlights include red buses, the world’s first Underground steam train and a padded cell train carriage dating back to the 1890s. To 3 Sep: Sounds of the City. The best 100 entries from the Prize for Illustration, looking at the sounds in otherwise quiet spaces in UK cities. Fri 11am-6pm; Sat-Thur 10am-6pm. Adult £17.50; child free. www.ltmuseum.co.uk. Covent Garden Piazza, WC2E 7BB. T: 020-7379 6344. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Museum of Brands, Packaging & Advertising Fascinating insight into the evolution of iconic consumer brands over the past 200 years. Tue-Sat & bank hols 10am-6pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £9; child (seven-16) £5. www.museumofbrands.com. 111-117 Lancaster Rd, W11 1QT. T: 020-7243 9611. Off map. Station: Ladbroke Grove.
The world’s largest urban history museum has nine galleries, including Roman and Medieval London, that transport you through the capital’s tumultuous history to the present day with thousands of exhibits. The City is Ours looks at the challenges of urban living. Check for regular family events. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions and walking tours. www. museum oflondon.org.uk. 150 London Wall, EC2Y 5HN. T: 020-7001 9844. D10. Station: Barbican.
Museum of London Docklands The history of the River Thames, from its time as a Roman thoroughfare to the area’s regeneration. To 3 Sep: Tunnel: The Archaeology of Crossrail. See archaeological objects unearthed by Crossrail, Europe’s largest infrastructure project. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free, charges for special exhibitions. www.museumoflondon.org.uk. T: 020-7001 9844. Off map. Station: Canary Wharf/ West India Quay.
National Maritime Museum The world’s largest maritime museum is spread over several sites, originally part of a 19th-century school for seafarers’ children. Galleries display equipment, artwork and ships’ figureheads, plus the interactive Great Map revealing stories from maritime history. Don’t miss the replica of Admiral Nelson’s HMS Victory in a bottle, and the uniform he wore when fatally wounded. To 7 Jan 2018: Death in the Ice. Exploring the mystery of Sir John Franklin, whose ships were lost at sea while on an expedition to discover the North-West Passage in 1845. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free; charges for events and exhibitions. www.rmg.co.uk. Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich/Cutty Sark.
Top Pick
Imperial War Museum Displays relating to global conflicts, particularly those involving Britain, plus the Holocaust Exhibition and art collection in the First World War Galleries. To 26 Nov: Afghanistan: Reflections on Helmand. Examining the British troops’ arrival and subsequent conflict. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for some special exhibitions. www.iwm.org.uk. Lambeth Rd, SE1 6HZ. T: 020-7416 5000. E5. Station: Lambeth North/Waterloo.
Jewish Museum Documenting Jewish history and culture in the UK from 1066 to today, including a lifelike representation of the East End immigrant quarter. To 24 Sep: Amy Winehouse: A Family Portrait. Discover the woman behind the music. To 7 Sep: Sephardi Voice: Jews from North Africa, the Middle East and Iran. Audio-visual exhibition. Daily 10am-5pm; Fri 10am-2pm. Adult £7.50; child (five-16) £3.50. www.jewish museum.org.uk. Raymond Burton House, 129-131 Albert St, NW1 7NB. T: 020-7284 7384. Off map. Station: Camden Town. 38 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017
Back in time Life in ancient Siberia was tough, with frozen terrain and fierce battles. No wonder then that the Scythians, a powerful nomadic tribe, were feared from southern Russia to China for their use of deadly weapons and horseback skills. Scythians: Warriors of Ancient Siberia at The British Museum (from 14 Sep; p. 37) shows off archaeological discoveries, literally frozen in time, which date back over 2,500 years. See gold jewellery and gold appliqué adorning clothes; clay death masks to resemble the tattooed faces of the deceased; and a 2,000-year-old cheese. From the exhibits, we can build a picture of how the Scythians lived – and even what, and how, they smoked.
A GOLD PLAQUE OF A SCYTHIAN RIDER © THE STATE HERMITAGE MUSEUM, ST PETERSBURG, 2017. PHOTO BY V TEREBENIN
The Guards Museum
London Film Museum
Museum of London
Fall in love with Wimbledon Want to feel the weight of the Championships trophies? Interested in watching an interactive ghost of John McEnroe? Keen to cast your eyes over Andy Murray’s title-winning whites? Then step inside the multi-dimensional journey that is Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum. With complimentary audio guides in 10 languages, learn about the history of the sport, see the Championship trophies, and the amazing new Virtual Reality experience. You may also take the behind the scenes tour of the grounds and explore the home of tennis, including Centre Court, for a truly inspirational visit. Supported by
New Virtual Reality experience Open Daily: 10:00am until 5:00pm Nearest Underground: Southfields The Museum Building, The All England Lawn Tennis & Croquet Club, Church Road, Wimbledon, London SW19 5AE
T: 020 8946 6131 | wimbledon.com/museum
MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Natural History Museum
Sir John Soane’s Museum
V&A Museum of Childhood
Astounding collections, with exhibits ranging from the Images of Nature gallery to dinosaur skeletons and fossils. To 28 Feb 2018: Whales: Beneath the Surface. Major new exhibition celebrating the arrival of Hope, the skeleton of a blue whale in Hintze Hall, exploring the huge sea mammals, with skeletons, flippers and skulls. To 10 Sep: Wildlife Photographer of the Year. Annual exhibition with animal imagery. To 17 Sep: Sensational Butterflies. Tropical butterfly house in the museum grounds. Daily 10am-5.50pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nhm.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 5BD. T: 020-7942 5000. F4. Station: South Kensington.
This 19th-century townhouse and library was owned by the architect Sir John Soane, which he left to the nation in 1837. It houses his amazing collection from around the world, including his own architectural drawings (view by appointment) and antiquities, plus Hogarth satirical artworks (p. 16). Please check for tours. Tue-Sat 10am-5pm. Candlelight opening first Tue every month, 6pm-9pm. Admission free. www.soane.org. 13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields, WC2A 3BP. T: 020-7405 2107. D8. Station: Holborn.
Charming museum with a national collection of childhood objects dating back to the 16th century. To 25 Feb 2018: Michael Morpurgo: A Lifetime in Stories. Profiling one of Britain’s best-loved writers, displaying his manuscripts, photographs and a model of Joey from the stage musical War Horse. Daily 10am-5.45pm. Admission free. www.vam. ac.uk/moc. Cambridge Heath Rd, E2 9PA. T: 020-8983 5200. Off map. Station: Bethnal Green.
Somerset House
The V&A’s outstanding collection of fine and applied arts spans 3,000 years and includes fashion, paintings, photographs and ceramics (p. 36). To 1 Oct: Pink Floyd: Their Mortal Remains. Spectacular audio-visual journey through the prog rock band’s music, design and staging. To 18 Feb 2018: Balenciago: Shaping Fashion. Exhibition about the designer Cristóbal Balenciaga and his vision of female beauty and use of textiles. From 30 Sep: Opera: Passion, Power and Politics. Exploring the culture of opera. Daily 10am-5.45pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.vam.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 2RL. T: 0207942 2000. F4/5. Station: South Kensington.
The Postal Museum This brand-new museum tells the story of the first ‘social network’, with thousands of exhibits exploring postal history, including old post boxes, delivery bikes and uniforms, plus weapons used to protect the delivery service. Take a ride on the Mail Rail, the train in the underground tunnels that have been unearthed after 75 years. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £14.50; child (under six) £7.25. www.postalmuseum.org. 15-20 Phoenix Place, WC1X 0DA. C8. Station: Russell Square
Queen’s House This 17th-century house, an architectural masterpiece by Inigo Jones, boasts 22 lavish rooms displaying a stunning fine art collection spanning 400 years, including works by Gainsborough and Hogarth. Don’t miss the spiral Tulip Stairs, said to be haunted, and the ornately painted Queen’s Presence Chamber ceiling. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.rmg.co.uk/queens-house. Queen’s House, Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark.
This neo-classical 18th-century building on the Thames houses the famous Courtauld Gallery, Embankment Galleries, cafés and restaurants. To 17 Sep: Perfume. Major exhibition that journeys through the history of contemporary scents, through 10 well-known perfumes. To 3 Sep: The Learned Society of Extra Ordinary Objects. Quirky collection of imaginary creations from contemporary designers. Galleries daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.somersethouse.org.uk. Strand, WC2R 1LA. T: 020-7845 4600. E8. Temple.
Twinings Museum The flagship store of Twinings since 1706, with a tiny exhibition reflecting the company’s 300-year history. See vintage teapots and caddies, plus the original Royal Warrant signed by Queen Victoria in 1837. Mon-Fri 9.30am-7.30pm; Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 11am-6pm. Admission free. www.twinings. co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.
Victoria and Albert Museum
Viktor Wynd Museum of Curiosities A former shop turned cocktail bar with a tiny basement museum displaying weird and wonderful items including taxidermy and erotica – some explicit. Look out for unusual events and courses. Wed-Sun noon-11pm. Admission £5. www.the lasttuesdaysociety.org. 1 Mare St, E8 4RP. T: 0207998 3617. Off map. Station: Bethnal Green.
National aviation museum focusing on the Royal Air Force. There are more than 100 outstanding aircraft on show, including a life-sized model of the F-35 fighter jet, plus photographs and films. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free. www.rafmuseum. org.uk. Grahame Park Way, NW9 5LL. T: 020-8205 2266. Off map. Station: Colindale.
Science Museum A huge museum dedicated to science, technology and medical achievements, great for kids, plus the IMAX theatre showing 3D science films, plus a Red Arrows simulator. Permanent galleries include Making the Modern World, with Stevenson’s Rocket and Apollo 10 command. To 1 Sep: Robots. Explore the fascinating 500-year story of humanoid robots. To 15 Jan 2018: Wounded: Conflict, Casualties and Care. Commemorating the human impact of World War I. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.sciencemuseum.org.uk. Exhibition Rd, SW7 2DD. T: 0333-241 4000. F4. Station: South Kensington.
Sherlock Holmes Museum Famous address dedicated to the fictional detective, where he lived with his friend and colleague Dr Watson from 1881 to 1904, which this year celebrates 125 years. The Victorian house has been maintained exactly as described in author Sir Arthur Conan Doyle’s thrilling stories. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £15; child (under 16) £10. www.sherlock-holmes.co.uk. 221b Baker St, NW1 6XE. T: 020-7224 3688. A3. Station: Baker Street. 40 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017
Making a pointe While a leaking roof has forced a closure at The Burrell Collection, a Glasgow art gallery, the good news is that its works by Degas are on a debut world tour. Drawn in Colour: Degas from the Burrell at The National Gallery (from 20 Sep; p. 42) brings together one of the world’s greatest collections of the works by the French Impressionist, who was known for his pastels of ballet dancers. These works, acquired by 19th-century shipping magnate Sir William Burrell, include his famous oil painting The Rehearsal (above), and the delicate pastels of Woman at her Bath and Jockeys in the Rain – horses were Degas’ passion. This month marks the centenary of his death, but his legacy certainly lives on.
THE REHEARSAL BY DEGAS © THE BURRELL COLLECTION, GLASGOW/CSG CIC GLASGOW MUSEUMS AND LIBRARIES COLLECTIONS
Royal Air Force Museum
Photo: Pete Mueller
Where glass comes to life
WhereLondonAprilAd.indd 1
5 minutes from The Shard 62-66 Bermondsey Street londonglassblowing.co.uk
14/03/2017 15:34 www.wheretraveler.com 41
MUSEUMS & GALLERIES The Courtauld Gallery
Guildhall Art Gallery
The former Wallace family home displays a beautiful collection of Rococo art, sculpture, furniture and suits of armour. Paintings include Frank Hals’ Laughing Cavalier. From 27 Sep: El Greco to Goya – Spanish Masterpieces from the Bowes Museum. An exhibition of 300 years of paintings. Free tours on selected dates. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.wallacecollection.org. Hertford House, Manchester Square, W1U 3BN. T: 020-7563 9500. D6. Station: Bond Street.
Important European art collection, plus temporary exhibitions, housed in Somerset House. To 24 Sep: Bloomsbury Art & Design. Early pieces by the Bloomsbury Group. To 17 Sep: William Henry Hunt: Country People. Hunt’s watercolour depictions of rural figures. Daily 10am6pm. Adult £7; child free. www.courtauld.ac.uk. Somerset House, Strand, WC2R 0RN. T: 020-7848 2526. E8. Station: Embankment.
Paintings collected by the City of London since the 17th century, including historic events and royalty. It also houses the Roman Amphitheatre, discovered in 1988 (free entry with gallery ticket). Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun noon-4pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.cityoflondon. gov.uk. Guildhall Yard, off Gresham St, EC2V 5AE. T: 020-7332 3700. D10. Station: St Paul’s/Bank.
Dulwich Picture Gallery
Wellcome Collection
England’s first public art gallery, founded in 1811, houses a fine collection of Old Masters. To 8 Oct: Sargent: The Watercolours. Scenes of Europe captured by John Singer Sargent. To 8 Oct: Pavilion Lates. Evening events held on the lawns. Tue-Fri 10am-5pm, Sat-Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £7; child free; charges for special exhibitions. www.dulwichpicturegallery. org.uk. Gallery Rd, SE21 7AD. T: 020-8693 5254. Off map. Station: West Dulwich/North Dulwich.
Changing exhibitions of contemporary art and installations, plus a café/bar, bookshop and arthouse cinema. Daily 11am-6pm; Thur 11am-9pm. Adult £1; child free. www.ica.org.uk. The Mall, SW1Y 5AH. T: 020-7930 3647. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Charing Cross.
Wellcome Trust’s public venue houses hundreds of fascinating artefacts relating to health and the body. Includes permanent exhibitions Medicine Now and Medicine Man, the personal collection of Sir Henry Wellcome with antique medical equipment. From 7 Sep: Can Graphic Design Save Your Life? Exploring the relationship between design and the healthcare industry, including the history of campaigns and digital teaching aids. Tue-Wed & Fri-Sat 10am-6pm; Thur 10am-10pm; Sun 11am6pm. Admission free. www.wellcomecollection.org. 183 Euston Rd, NW1 2BE. T: 020-7611 2222. C7. Station: Euston.
Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum & Tours At the venue of the famous Championships, the displays range from old trophies and rackets to famous tennis kits from current champions, plus touchscreens to watch past greats in action. Look out for the ‘ghost’ of John McEnroe, and the virtual reality 360-degree experience narrated by Tim Henman. To 4 Mar 2018: On Air: Wimbledon and the BBC 1927-2017. Exhibition to celebrate BBC’s radio and TV live broadcasting of Championships for 90 years, displaying old TV cameras, posters and programmes. Tours of the grounds include Centre Court. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Museum adult £13; child £8. Museum & Tour adult £25; child £15. One free child with every full-price adult. www.wimbledon. com/museum. All England Lawn Tennis Club, Church Rd, SW19 5AE. T: 020-8946 6131.Off map. Station: Southfields then bus 493 or a 12-minute walk.
Estorick Collection Charming gallery in a Grade II-listed Georgian building, specialising in modern Italian art. To 10 Sep: Franco Grignani: Art as Design. A look at the Italian’s swirling designs. Wed-Sat 11am-6pm; Sun noon-5pm. Adult £6.50; child free. www.estorickcollection.com. 39a Canonbury Square, N1 2AN. T: 020-7704 9522. Off map. Station: Highbury & Islington.
ICA (Institute of Contemporary Arts)
The National Gallery One of the world’s great galleries, with a huge collection of works by masters from Monet to da Vinci. Regular guided tours and events. From 20 Sep: Drawn in Colour: Degas from the Burrell. Works by the French Impressionist (p. 40). To 8 Oct: Giovanni da Rimini. A classic 14th-century masterpiece, Scenes from the Lives of the Virgin and other Saints, is displayed alongside other lateByzantine pieces. Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am9pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nationalgallery.org.uk. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7747 2885. E7. Station: Charing Cross.
GALLERIES The Art of the Brick: DC Super Heroes To 3 Sep: See astounding largescale LEGO sculptures of super heroes and super villains, created by artist Nathan Sawaya. Daily; please check for times. Adult £16.50; child £11. Corner of Upper Ground and Cornwall Rd, South Bank, SE1 9PP. www.aotbdc.co.uk. T: 0333-247 0260. Station: Waterloo.
Barbican Art Gallery Multi-arts venue with two exhibition spaces. From 21 Sep: Basquiat: Boom for Real. The UK’s first major exhibition of Jean-Michel Basquiat (p. 37). Charges for special exhibitions. Please check for times and prices. www.barbican.org.uk. Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 4141. D10. Station: Barbican.
Ben Uri Gallery This museum of Jewish art houses more than 1,000 works, plus regular talks and events. To 17 Sep: Art Out of the Bloodlands: A Century of Polish Artists in Britain. Highlighting 20th and 21st-century paintings and prints by approximately 50 Polish migrants. Mon-Fri 10am-5.30pm; Sat & Sun 11am5pm. Admission free. www.benuri.org.uk. 108a Boundary Rd, off Abbey Rd, NW8 0RH. T: 020-7604 3991. Off map. Station: Kilburn High Road. 42 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017
Material world Plaster, concrete, rubber and metal aren’t materials you would automatically associate with art, but these industrial substances are the favourites of British contemporary artist Rachel Whiteread. Tate Britain celebrates the London-born sculptor’s 25-year career with a vast exhibition of her works (from 12 Sep; p. 43). These include Untitled (Room 101) – a cast of a room at BBC’s Broadcasting House, thought to be the inspiration for George Orwell’s Room 101 in Nineteen Eighty-Four (above), and Untitled (One Hundred Spaces), 100 resin casts of the undersides of chairs. In addition to these is her 1993 Turner Prize-winning House – for which she became the first female winner of the prestigious prize.
UNTITLED (ROOM 101) © MUSÉE NATIONAL D’ART MODERNE – CENTRE POMPIDOU, PARIS/PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF THE ARTIST © RACHEL WHITEREAD
The Wallace Collection
MUSEUMS & GALLERIES National Portrait Gallery Prominent gallery, more than 150 years old, with depictions of famous British people. To 24 Sep: BP Portrait Award 2017. See the finalists in this prestigious competition. To 22 Oct: The Encounter: Drawings from Leonardo to Rembrandt. Exploring the creative relationship between the artists and their sitters. Sat-Wed 10am6pm; Thur & Fri 10am-9pm (regular special events). Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.npg.org.uk. St Martin’s Place, WC2H 0HE. T: 020-7312 2463. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
The Photographers’ Gallery London’s largest gallery devoted to photography, with temporary exhibitions. To 8 Oct: Gregory Crewdson – Cathedral of the Pines. Powerful scenic works from the US photographer. Mon-Sat 10am6pm; Thur 10am-8pm; Sun 11am-6pm. Admission free before noon, then £4. www.thephotographers gallery.org.uk. 16-18 Ramillies St, W1F 7LW. T: 020-7087 9300. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
COMMERCIAL GALLERIES Alan Cristea Gallery Leading gallery in the European art scene. Admission free. 43 Pall Mall, SW1Y 5JG. T: 020-7439 1866. www.alancristea.com. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
David Zwirner Contemporary art gallery. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm. 24 Grafton St, W1S 4EZ. T: 020-3538 3165. www.davidzwirner.com. E7. Station: Green Park.
Kings Place Arts venue. 90 York Way, N1 9AG. T: 020-7520 1490. www.kingsplace.co.uk. Off map. Station: King’s Cross.
Lisson Gallery Influential contemporary art gallery showing innovative and international artists. 52-54 Bell St, NW1 5DA. T: 020-7724 2739. www.lissongallery.com. D5. Station: Edgware Road.
October Gallery Contemporary, ethnic and tribal art. 24 Old Gloucester St, WC1N 3AL. T: 020-7242 7367. www.octobergallery.co.uk. C8. Station: Holborn.
White Cube Bermondsey Influential contemporary gallery. 144-152 Bermondsey St, SE1 3TQ. T: 020-7930 5373. www.whitecube.com. F11. Station: London Bridge.
Serpentine Gallery A respected arts space displaying modern and contemporary work. To 8 Oct: Serpentine Pavilion. Designed by Francis Kéré, this temporary structure hosts events throughout the summer. To 10 Sep: Grayson Perry: The Most Popular Art Exhibition, Ever! New humorous works by the provocative and sometimes controversial British artist, with themes including Brexit, gender and mass culture. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Admission free. Kensington Gardens, W2 3XA. T: 020-7402 6075. E4. Station: South Kensington.
Tate Britain The nation’s leading collection of British art from 1500 to today, including the world’s largest collection of works by Turner. To 1 Oct: Queer British Art 1861-1967. Marking the 50th anniversary of the partial decriminalisation of male homosexuality in England, featuring paintings and items from artists including Hockney and Singer Sargent. From 12 Sep: Rachel Whiteread. Sculptural works by the prominent British artist – and the first woman to win the Turner Prize, in 1993 (p. 42). Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8888. G8. Station: Pimlico.
Tate Modern World-class collection of international modern art in the transformed Bankside Power Station. To 22 Oct: Soul of a Nation: Art in the Age of Black Power. A collection of powerful works by black American artists during the Civil Rights movement. To 10 Sep: Giacometti. Retrospective of distinctive works by the Swiss sculptor. To 8 Oct: Fahrelnissa Zeid. Kaleidoscopic paintings by the Turkish avant-garde artist. Sun-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri & Sat 10am-10pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Bankside, SE1 9TG. T: 020-7887 8888. E9. Station: Southwark.
Whitechapel Gallery East End gallery, showcasing modern art. To 10 Sep: Benedict Drew: The Trickle-Down Syndrome. Site-specific installation. From 27 Sep: Thomas Ruff. The contemporary German photographer’s works comprise themes such as cosmology, nudity and utopianism. Tue-Sun 11am-6pm; Thur 11am-9pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.whitechapel.org. 77-82 Whitechapel High St, E1 7QX. T: 020-7522 7888. Off map. Station: Aldgate East. www.wheretraveler.com 43
ENTERTAINMENT | THE GUIDE
Cruel intentions A Victorian music hall is the perfect venue for this vaudeville-style show, says Sarah Riches Malaysia, and had three UK tours – so to launch the new version in the capital and in a venue that suits it so well is exciting.’ The Terrible Infants is a collection of five interconnected short stories by Lansley and Sam Wyer. Seagar adds: ‘Our designer Sam Wyer – who also designed Alice’s Adventures Underground – is overhauling the puppets and our ideas. The overall look of the show has changed slightly while remaining true to the original concept. That’s important, as people still talk about it 10 years on, so we want to retain the magic that made it so special the first time around. We have a new story called Finbar, about a boy who “wishes he was with the fishes” – but his wish becomes true in a way he is not expecting! Nothing’s been cut yet, but when we rehearse there are certain elements we want to change.’
Dark, twisted and surreal, the show blends physical theatre with mime, song and dance, alliteration and rhyme. The production has been likened to Roald Dahl, Tim Burton and Brothers Grimm stories, and is reminiscent of a carnival or Gothic fairytale. Actors wear Victorianstyle costumes and paint their faces, while a band plays jaunty music. Dame Judi Dench provides a recorded narration, while the cast tells silly stories about cruel children let loose from nursery. Through shadow art, clowns, a one-eyed ragdoll and a marionette, you’ll meet a silent boy who even his parents forget about; Little Linena, a vain girl made from cloth; stinky Manky Mingus; Little Tilly, who tells so many lies she grows a tail of her own and Tumb, a hungry boy who eats his mum – who then refuses to eat any more food. This is suitable for children and adults. 1 Graces Alley, E1 8JB. T: 020-7702 2789. www.wiltons.org.uk
THE TERRIBLE INFANTS COURTESY OF THE TERRIBLE INFANTS
Creepy musical-box tunes, doll-like make-up and a bulging-eyed, gap-toothed baby mask can only mean one thing – the variety show The Terrible Infants is back, following stints at the Edinburgh Fringe Festival and an international tour. Les Enfants Terribles – the team behind Olivier-nominated show Alice’s Adventures Underground and Dinner with the Twits at The Vaults – is staging the comical musical at the world’s oldest music hall, Wilton’s Music Hall (from 27 Sep), to mark the show’s 10-year anniversary. The Grade II-listed venue, with its floorboards, arches and original features, is an ideal backdrop for the vaudeville-style show. The show is co-directed by Oliver Lansley and James Seager. Seagar says: ‘We’ve wanted to do a show at Wilton’s for some time as it’s a magnificent, beautiful building that suits the company’s aesthetic wonderfully. We’ve never done the show for a run in London – it’s been to Australia, Singapore, Poland, Norway, Germany, Scotland and
44 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017
EVENING STANDARD
‘YOU’RE GONNA LOVE IT’ MAIL ON SUNDAY
OLIVIER AWARDS WINNER 2017
TOM EYEN MUSIC BY HENRY KRIEGER ORIGINAL BROADWAY PRODUCTION DIRECTED AND CHOREOGRAPHED BY MICHAEL BENNETT DIRECTED AND CHOREOGRAPHED BY CASEY NICHOLAW BOOK AND LYRICS BY
DAY SEATS AVAILABLE £20 DAY SEATS AVAILABLE FROM 10AM AT THE BOX OFFICE
SAVOY THEATRE | Strand, London, WC2R 0ET | DreamgirlsWestEnd.com
FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM
T: Telephone number. Station: inc Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81. Please check for complete listings. TKTS booth has discounted tickets for West End shows (Leicester Square Gardens, WC2H 0AP)
Evita Andrew Lloyd Webber and Tim Rice’s musical follows the true story of Eva, the wife of former Argentine dictator Juan Perón. Documenting the journey that led her from humble beginnings to becoming the ‘spiritual leader of the nation’, this musical includes a rousing score including Don’t Cry for Me Argentina. Mon-Sat 7.45pm; Thur 3pm; Sat 4pm. Tickets £31.30-£81.30. www.phoenix theatrelondon.co.uk. Phoenix Theatre, 110 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0JP. T: 0843-316 1082. E7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Footloose: The Musical 12-30 Sep: This stage version of the hit 1980s movie stars Gareth Gates, who plays city boy Ren, forced to move to a rural backwater where dancing and rock music are banned. Featuring the original songs, including the title track and Let’s Hear It for Boy. TueSun; check for times. Tickets £15-£55. www.atg tickets.com. Peacock Theatre, Portugal St, WC2A 2HT. T: 020-7863 8222. Off map. Station: Holborn.
A woman’s touch
42nd Street
MUSICALS & PERFORMANCES Aladdin This Broadway and West End hit has a stellar cast. Expect tunes such as A Whole New World and Friend Like Me with lyrics by Tim Rice, and a real magic carpet. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £40-£99.75. www.aladdinthemusical.co.uk. Prince Edward Theatre, Old Compton St, W1D 4HS. T: 0844-482 5151. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Alice’s Adventures Underground To 23 Sep: Following a limited run in 2015, this immersive show based on Lewis Carroll’s children’s classic was nominated for an Olivier Award – and it’s back at The Vaults beneath Waterloo Station. Please check for times. Tickets £39-£54. www.alice-underground.com. The Vaults, Leake St, SE1 7NN. T: 0844-248 1125. F8. Station: Waterloo.
An American in Paris Originally a jazz number written in 1928 by George Gershwin, and later a film, this musical follows an American World War II veteran who falls for a woman in a bar in 1940s Paris. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2pm. Tickets £19.50-£125. www.anamericaninparis themusical.co.uk. Dominion Theatre, 268-269 Tottenham Court Rd, W1T 7AQ. T: 0845-200 7982. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Annie Revival of the popular story set in the Great Depression about Annie, a girl in an orphanage who gets a chance to spend Christmas with a millionaire. But the evil manager Miss Hannigan (played by Miranda Hart; Craig Revel 46 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017
Horwood from 18 Sep) has other ideas. Mon & Wed-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sun 3pm. Tickets £24-£132. www.piccadillytheatre.org. Piccadilly Theatre, 16 Denman St, W1D 7DY. T: 0844-871 7630. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
The Book of Mormon This controversial satire, from the writers of TV’s South Park, follows the exploits of two hapless missionaries from the Church of Latter Day Saints. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £34.75-£152.25. www.bookofmormonlondon.com. Prince of Wales Theatre, Coventry St, W1D 6AS. T: 0844-482 5110. E7. Station: Leicester Square/Piccadilly Circus.
Doubt, a Parable 6-30 Sep: A Catholic school principal questions a priest’s ambiguous relationship with a troubled young student. 3pm & 7.30pm. Tickets £12-£20. www.southwarkplayhouse. co.uk. Southwark Playhouse, 77-85 Newington Causeway, SE1 6BD. T: 020-7407 0234. Off map. Station: Elephant and Castle.
Dreamgirls Glee TV star Amber Riley plays Effie White in this musical about the tumultuous journey of a young female singing trio from Chicago. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £20-£145. www.savoy theatre.org. Savoy Theatre, Strand, WC2R 0ET. T: 0844-871 7687. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
This romantic comedy follows an authoritarian director as he stages a musical extravaganza during the Great Depression. Clare Halse (Gypsy) stars as Peggy, a small-town girl with big dreams who’s stuck in a chorus line on Broadway’s newest show. But when the leading lady Dorothy Brock (Sheena Easton) gets injured, Peggy has a shot at stardom. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £25-£125. www.42ndstreetmusical.co.uk. Theatre Royal Drury Lane, Catherine St, WC2B 5JF. T: 0844-858 8877. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Girl from the North Country In Minnesota, 1934, a community living on a knifeedge huddle together in the local guesthouse, where the owner, Nick, owes more money than he can ever repay. This powerful show is brought to life by music and a songbook of Bob Dylan tunes. MonSat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £12-£67.50. www.oldvictheatre.com. The Old Vic, The Cut, SE1 8NB. T: 0844-871 7628. F9. Station: Waterloo.
Half a Sixpence To 2 Sep:Arthur Kipps is an orphan and an overworked draper’s assistant who unexpectedly inherits a fortune that propels him into high society. Based on a novel by HG Wells. Mon-Tue & Thur-Sat 7.30pm; Wed, Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £25-£127.25. www.halfasixpence.co.uk. Noël Coward Theatre, St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4AU. T: 0844-482 5140. E8. Station: Leicester Square.
Jesus Christ Superstar To 23 Sep: After a successful run at this theatre last summer, this award-winning show is the revival of the musical by Andrew Lloyd Webber and Tim Rice. Please check for times. Tickets £22.50-£55. www.openair theatre.com. Open Air Theatre, Regent’s Park, NW1 4NU. T: 0844-826 4242. C6. Station: Baker Street.
Expect to be enchanted by the magical musical, Wicked (p. 48)
SHAKESPEARE’S GLOBE © JOHN WILDGOOSE; WITCH COURTESY OF WICKED
A new play about one of history’s earliest feminists is coming to Shakespeare’s Globe. Directed by Eleanor Rhode, Boudica (from 8 Sep; p. 48) is a classic ancient drama set in Britannia in AD 61, just as rebellion is simmering at the edge of the Roman Empire. When the king of semi-independent Iceni dies, he leaves his land to his warrior widow, Boudica, as well as the Roman emperor. But the Romans ignore the will, rape his daughters and flog Boudica before banishing her. Independent and determined to fight the injustice, Queen Boudica returns – with an army hell bent on revenge. With two fight directors on board for this production, you can expect plenty of action.
ENTERTAINMENT Kinky Boots
School of Rock: The Musical
The Wind in the Willows
Fun musical about a shoe factory which reinvigorates its business after its new owner decides to produce knee-high boots for drag queens. With music by Cyndi Lauper. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £19.50-£125. www.kinkybootsthemusical.co.uk. Adelphi Theatre, 409-412 Strand, WC2R 0NS. T: 0844-579 0094. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
A hit on Broadway, Andrew Lloyd Webber’s latest musical follows an out-of-work rock singer who pretends to be a teacher, and forms a band of primary schoolkids. Mon, Wed-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm. Tickets £15-£99.50. www.schoolofrockthemusical.com. New London Theatre, 166 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PF. T: 020-7452 3000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
The children’s novel is brought to life with an original score. It stars Rufus Hound as Toad, a loveable rascal with a penchant for fast cars. Mon 7pm; Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Tue & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£125. www.windinthewillowsthemusical.com. London Palladium, Argyll St, W1F 7TF. T: 0844-412 2704. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
Les Misérables
Some Lovers
PLAYS
Disney’s The Lion King Wonderful adaptation of the popular Disney film with ingenious costumes and inventive puppetry, plus music by Sir Elton John (p. 50). Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Wed, Sat & Sun 2.30pm. Tickets £47.70-£167.50. www.thelionking.co.uk. Lyceum Theatre, 21 Wellington St, WC2E 7RQ. T: 0844-871 3000. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Mamma Mia! A tribute to the music of ABBA, with many of their popular hits, wrapped up in a feel-good story set on a Greek island where a young woman is trying to find the identity of her father the night before her wedding. Mon-Sat 7.45pm; Thur & Sat 3pm. Tickets £18-£117. www.mamma-mia.com. Novello, Aldwych, WC2B 4LD. T: 0844-482 5115. E8. Station: Covent Garden/Temple.
Matilda the Musical Fantastic show based on Roald Dahl’s children’s book about a girl with magic powers. Tue 7pm; Wed-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm. Tickets £25-£122.50. www.matildathemusical. com. Cambridge Theatre, 32-34 Earlham St, WC2 9HU. T: 0844-412 4652. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
The Mentor To 2 Sep: Benjamin Robin is a cantankerous old writer who meets Martin Wegner, a rising young literary star, but their massive egos are set on a collision course in this compelling comedy. Please check for times and prices. www.vaudeville-theatre.co.uk. Vaudeville Theatre, 404 Strand, WC2R 0NH. T: 0330-333 4814. E8. Station: Charing Cross/Covent Garden.
Motown the Musical Brilliant feel-good musical which influenced a generation. It’s based on the story of Motown Records, which launched the careers of Diana Ross and the Supremes, Michael Jackson and The Jackson 5, Stevie Wonder, Marvin Gaye and The Temptations. Includes plenty of well-known hits, including Dancing in the Street. Please check for times and prices. www.shaftesburytheatre.com. Shaftesbury Theatre, 210 Shaftesbury Ave, WC2H 8DP. T: 020-7379 5399. D8. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Holborn.
The Phantom of the Opera Long-running Gothic drama in which a disfigured masked man hides beneath the Paris Opera House, obsessed by the attractive singer, Christine, and determined to keep her by his side. Now in its 31st year. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £24.80-£128.50. www.thephantomoftheopera.com. Her Majesty’s Theatre, 57 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QL. T: 0844-412 2707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus. 48 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017
To 2 Sep: Four actors play two
characters caught between the present and the past in this love story set in New York over 20 years. The score is by award-winning Burt Bacharach. 1 Sep 8pm; 2 Sep 3pm & 8pm. Tickets £20. www.theotherpalace.co.uk. The Other Palace, 12 Palace St, SW1E 5JA. T: 0844-264 2140. Off map. Station: St James’s Park/Victoria.
Stomp
Apologia Emmy Award-winner Stockard Channing stars in this darkly funny play, which is directed by Jamie Lloyd (p. 52). Tickets £15-£95. www.atgtickets.com. Trafalgar Studios, 14 Whitehall, SW1A 2DY. T: 0844871 7632. E7. Station: Charing Cross.
Boudica From 8 Sep: A widow fights to reclaim her rightful throne (p. 46). Check for times. Tickets £5-£45. www.shakespearesglobe.com. Shakespeare’s Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919. E10. Station: Blackfriars.
An award-winning fusion of theatre, The Phantom of the dance, comedy and rhythmic Opera’s make-up takes percussion, with the award-winning two hours to apply and 30 minutes troupe using everything imaginable to remove to make rhythms. Mon & Thur-Sat 8pm; Thur & Sat-Sun 3pm; Sun 6pm; Cat on a Hot Tin Roof occasional Weds. Tickets £26-£57.50. Sienna Miller stars in Tennessee Williams’ 1955 www.stomplondon.co.uk. Ambassadors Theatre, play. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets West St, WC2H 9ND. T: 020-7395 5405. D7. £10-£67. www.apollotheatrelondon.co.uk. Apollo Station: Leicester Square. Theatre, Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. T: 0330-333
Thriller Live
4809. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Non-stop songs and dance celebrate Michael Jackson’s 45-year-long career, including all his much-loved hits such as I Want You Back, ABC, Off the Wall and, of course, Thriller. Please check for times and prices. www.thrillerlive.com. Lyric, 29 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. T: 0844-482 9674. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
The Comedy About a Bank Robbery
Wicked
Faulty Towers: The Dining Experience
The back story of the witches of Oz, with young sorcery students Glinda and Elpheba (p. 46). Includes the hit tunes Defying Gravity and Popular, plus spectacular sets and costumes. MonSat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £24.25£125. www.wickedthemusical.co.uk. Apollo Victoria Theatre, 17 Wilton Rd, SW1V 1LG. T: 0844-871 3001. F7. Station: Victoria.
Clipped wings Olivier and BAFTA-winner Juliet Stevenson stars in Wings at the Young Vic (from 14 Sep; p. 50). She plays a former pilot and wingwalker, who suffers a stroke in her seventies and struggles to cope with the loss of her speech, memory, identity and independence. Stevenson brilliantly captures the sense of disorientation and frustration in this mesmerising monologue. Originally a radio play by Arthur Kopit, Wings premiered on stage in America in 1978 to rave reviews. Stevenson is teaming up with director Natalie Abrahami once again after they worked together on Happy Days, also at the Young Vic.
A hilarious play about six incompetent crooks desperate to get hold of a diamond. Check for times. Tickets £11.25-£73.75. www.the comedyaboutabankrobbery.com. The Criterion Theatre, 218-223 Piccadilly, W1V 9LB. T: 0844-815 6131. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus. Seventies-style dining and interactive comedy combine in this theatrical experience. Check for times. Tickets £65-£87. www.faultytowers-uk.com. The Torquay Suite Theatre, Amba Hotel Charing Cross, Strand, WC2N 5HX. T: 0845-154 4145. E8. Station: Charing Cross. Kingsway Hall Hotel, 66 Great Queen St, WC2B 5BX. D8. Station: Holborn.
Top Pick
JULIET STEVENSON © JOHAN PERSSON
The world’s longest-running musical, adapted from Victor Hugo’s classic novel, is set in postrevolutionary France. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £12.50-£143.75. www.lesmis.com. Queen’s Theatre, 51 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 6BA. T: 0844-482 5160. D8. Station: Leicester Square/ Piccadilly Circus.
ENTERTAINMENT Oslo
Movie magic The Luna Cinema returns to screen more classic films outdoors in iconic locations. Experience sights in a new light – at dusk – as you watch the Hollywood romance La La Land at Dulwich Park (9 Sep), Battersea Park (12 Sep), Alexandra Palace (16 Sep) and Fulham Palace (20 Sep). You can also see The Lost Boys at Alexandra Palace (15 Sep), Jurassic Park (13 Sep), Moulin Rouge! (14 Sep) at Battersea Park and The Great Gatsby at Fulham Palace (21 Sep). Other highlights this month include a Grease singalong in Kew Gardens (7 Sep); The Big Lebowski in Victoria Embankment Gardens (19 Sep); The Graduate (10 Sep) at Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre and Ghost by an illuminated St Paul’s Cathedral. If it rains, the show still goes on, so be prepared and take a blanket!
5-23 Sep: A play about the 1993 Oslo Peace Accords, which saw the leaders of Israel and Palestine shake hands at the White House. Please check for times. Tickets £15-£65. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk. Lyttelton Theatre, National Theatre, South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.
Our Ladies of Perpetual Succour To 2 Sep: The uplifting and moving story of six Catholic choir girls from Oban, who are let loose in Edinburgh. Please check for times. Tickets £10-£65. www.dukeofyorkstheatre.co.uk. Duke of York’s Theatre, 104 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4BG. T: 0844-871 7627. E8. Station: Leicester Square.
The Play That Goes Wrong Slapstick comedy about an amateur dramatic society staging a murder mystery. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm & 7pm. Tickets £22-£67.50. www.theplaythatgoeswrong.com. Duchess Theatre, 3-5 Catherine St, WC2B 5LA. T: 0844-482 9672. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Wings From 14 Sep: Juliet Stevenson stars as a wingwalker (p. 48). Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm (except 16, 20 & 27 Sep). Tickets £10-£38. www.youngvic.org. Young Vic, 66 The Cut, SE1 8LZ. T: 020-7922 2922. F9. Station: Waterloo.
The Woman in Black A Gothic story adapted from Susan Hill’s novel, about a lawyer who visits a house to settle affairs after a death. Tue-Sat 8pm; Tue & Thur 3pm; Sat 4pm. Tickets £19.50-£60. www.thewomaninblack. com. Fortune Theatre, Russell St, WC2B 5HH. T: 0844-871 7626. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
King Lear The king makes the decision to divide his kingdom among his daughters, but fails to anticipate the consequences of his actions. Please check for times. Tickets £5-£45. www.shakespearesglobe.com. Shakespeare’s Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919. E10. Station: Blackfriars.
Hamlet To 2 Sep: Hamlet is brought to
the stage by the critically acclaimed creative team behind 1984. Mon-Sat 7pm; Thur & Sat 1.30pm. Tickets £15-£95. www.haroldpinter theatre.co.uk. Harold Pinter Theatre, Panton St, SW1Y 4DN. T: 0844-871 7622. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Harry Potter and the Cursed Child The long-awaited parts I and II of the adaptation of JK Rowling’s new story has already won many awards. Father-of-three Harry now works for the Ministry of Magic, but his youngest son grapples with the legacy he never really wanted. Most tickets are sold out; please check for returns and times. www.harrypottertheplay.com. Palace Theatre, 113 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 5AY. T: 0300-333 4813. D7. Station: Charing Cross.
Jane Eyre From 26 Sep: Drama based on the timeless novel by Charlotte Brontë, about a woman’s fight for freedom and fulfilment on her own terms, tackling obstacles head on. Please check for times. Tickets £29-£60. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk. National Theatre, South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.
50 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017
Lady Day at Emerson’s Bar & Grill To 9 Sep: Six-time Tony Awardwinner Audra McDonald plays the blues singer Billie Holiday. Tue-Sat 7.45pm; Wed, Thur & Sat 2.45pm. Tickets £12.50-£62.10. www.delfont mackintosh.co.uk. Wyndham’s Theatre, Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0DA. T: 0844-482 5120. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
The Mousetrap A murderer strikes at a party in Agatha Christie’s whodunnit, in the world’s longest-running stage production. Please check for times and prices. www.the-mousetrap.co.uk. St Martin’s Theatre, West St, WC2H 9NZ. T: 0844-499 1515. D7. Station: Leicester Square.
Much Ado About Nothing William Shakespeare’s classic play is transported to Mexico in 1910. Claudio and Benedick return home and Claudio has been pining for his love. Check for times. Tickets £5-£45. www. shakespeares globe.com. Shakespeare’s Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919. E10. Station: Blackfriars.
FESTIVALS & EVENTS BBC Proms Annual festival celebrating classical music, with the aim of bringing it to the masses at reasonable prices. The finale is in Hyde Park (9 Sep). Please check for times and prices. www.bbc.co.uk. Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212. F4. Station: South Kensington.
The Luna Cinema Watch classic films and blockbusters such as Dreamgirls and The Rocky Horror Picture Show (above). Check for times. Adult £15; child £10. www.thelunacinema.com. T: 0844-858 6767.
Underbelly Festival To 30 Sep Comedy, circus, cabaret and family shows, plus one of London’s biggest outdoor bars. www.underbellyfestival.com. Belvedere Road Coach Park, SE1 8XX. The Lion King, T: 0844-545 8252. E8. Station: Waterloo.
DANCE Royal Opera House From 27 Sep: Alice’s Adventures in
Wonderland. Christopher Wheeldon’s charming ballet for all ages. Please check for times and prices. www.roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Watch The Lion King, the much-loved musical based on the Disney movie (p. 48)
ALEXANDRA PALACE SCREENING COURTESY OF THE LUNA CINEMA; THE LION KING IMAGE © DISNEY
The Ferryman With a story by Jez Butterworth and direction by Sam Mendes, this play is set in Northern Ireland in 1981. It follows the Carney household as they prepare for a feast to celebrate the annual harvest, before an uninvited guest appears. Mon-Sat 7pm; Wed & Sat 1.30pm. Tickets £12-£64.50. www.delfont mackintosh.co.uk. Gielgud Theatre, Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 6AR. T: 0844-482 5130. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Leicester Square.
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N O W B O O K I N G U N T I L M A R C H 2018 www.wheretraveler.com 51
ENTERTAINMENT
In her defence
12-16 Sep: Hofesh Shechter Company: Grand Finale. A vision of a world in freefall. 20-23 Sep: Akram Khan’s Giselle (English National Ballet). 27-30 Sep: Acosta Danza: Debut. Dance icon Carlos Acosta launches his company. Please check for times and prices. www.sadlerswells.com. Rosebery Ave, EC1R 4TN. T: 020-7863 8000. Off map. Station: Angel.
OPERA Royal Opera House Home to the Royal Opera Company. From 11 Sep: La Bohème (Puccini). From 12 Sep: Die Zauberflöte (Mozart). Please check for times and prices. www.roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
London Coliseum From 28 Sep: Aida (Verdi). Please check for times. Tickets £30-£105. www.eno.org. 33 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4ES. T: 020-7845 9300. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
CONCERTS: CLASSICAL Cadogan Hall 9 Sep: Russian State Opera: Tosca. 17 Sep: Grenfell
Tower Benefit Concert (Mozart, Schubert, Puccini, Tchaikovsky). 27 Sep: London Russian Ballet School. Please check for times. www.cadoganhall.com. 5 Sloane Terrace, SW1X 9DQ. T: 020-7730 4500. G6. Station: Sloane Square.
STOCKARD CHANNING © SHAUN WEBB
Award-winning Hollywood actress Stockard Channing – best known as Rizzo in the 1978 hit musical Grease – has been getting rave reviews in the revival of Apologia (meaning defence) at Trafalgar Studios (p. 48). Directed by Jamie Lloyd, the play follows Kristin, a liberal art historian and 60s activist, who has recently published her memoir. At a birthday party in her cottage, however, cracks in Kristin’s relationships start to show as her friends and family begin to question her achievements, and whether they were worth the sacrifices she has made.
Sadler’s Wells
52 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017
Royal Albert Hall London’s premier music hall, and home to the annual BBC Proms (p. 50). 2 Sep: Prom 66. Mahler’s Fourth Symphony. Please check for times, prices and full proms listings. www.royalalberthall.com. Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212. G4. South Kensington.
St Martin-in-the-Fields Extensive programme of lunchtime and evening concerts and recitals, some candlelit. Please check for full listings. www.smitf.org. St Martin-in-theFields Church, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
Wigmore Hall Famous concert hall with regular recitals. 9 Sep: Gerald Finley/Julius Drake (Schubert, Poulenc, Ravel). 10 Sep: Castalian String Quartet (Mozart, Schubert). 11 Sep: Cuarteto Casals (Beethoven, Matan Porat). 12 Sep: Mahan Esfahani (Bach). 13 Sep: Doric String Quartet (Haydn). 18 Sep: Classical Opera: The Mozartists. 22 Sep: Vienna Mozart Trio. 23 Sep: Sir Andras Schiff (Mendelssohn, Brahms). 7.30pm. www.wigmorehall.org.uk. 36 Wigmore St, W1U 2BP. T: 020-7935 2141. D6. Station: Bond Street.
CONCERTS: POP, JAZZ & WORLD The O2 Enormous venue for live music. 12 Sep: John Legend. 19 Sep: Foo Fighters. 30 Sep: Nick Cave & The Bad Seeds. Please check for times and prices. www.theo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0AX. T: 0844-856 0202. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.
Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club London’s famous jazz venue. 1-2 Sep: Spanish Harlem Orchestra. Viva Cuba! Live Cuban bands and DJs. 1-2 Sep: Spanish Harlem Orchestra. 4-9 Sep: Saluting Sgt Pepper! With Django Bates and the Frankfurt Radio Big Band. 14-16 Sep: Henry Butler’s Jambalaya Band. 18-23 Sep: Incognito. 27-30 Sep: Stacey Kent. Please check for times, prices and full listings. www.ronniescotts.co.uk. 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Royal Albert Hall 17 Sep: Texas. 21 Sep: Later... with Jools Holland 25. 22 Sep: Ryan Adams. 30 Sep: Casino Royale in
concert. Please check for times and prices. www. royalalberthall.com. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212. F4. Station: South Kensington
CHILDREN & FAMILIES Child of the Divide From 29 Sep: Set in 1947, when millions of people are moving between India and Pakistan, young Pali’s destiny changes. Suitable for ages seven to 14. Tickets £10-£13.50. Please check for times. www.polkatheatre.com. Polka Theatre, 240 The Broadway, SW19 1SB. T: 020-8543 4888. Off map. Station: Wimbledon.
Gangsta Granny To 3 Sep: Based on David Walliams’ book, Ben stays in with his granny on a boring Friday night, but she has ways to spice things up. Suitable for over fives. Tue, Wed, Sat-Sun 7pm; Tue-Sun 2.30pm. Tickets £23.50-£65. www.garricktheatre.org. Garrick Theatre, 2 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0HH. T: 0844-482 9673. E7/8. Station: Leicester Square.
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SHOPPING | THE GUIDE
Clockwise from this image: Emilia Wickstead’s catwalk show; pop-up shop; Mary Katrantzou’s catwalk show
Streets with style
Fashion for everyone London, we humbly declare, is the style capital of the world. Not Paris, New York or Milan. Instead it’s this mother of a city that has given birth to the three-piece suit, bowler hat and trench coat, which are worn the world over, and nurtured fashion trends from punk to the Sloane Ranger. Twice a year, British designers, including the eccentric, eclectic and ever-inventive, showcase their collections at London Fashion Week (21-24 Sep). Paul Smith, Stella McCartney and Vivienne Westwood are just some of the notable names. Now in its 33rd year, the event brings in £100 million worth of orders and sets the trends you can expect for autumn and winter. A strange thing happens in London: well-dressed fashion editors, chic celebrities and zany bloggers can be seen strutting from one catwalk show to another at iconic venues including Somerset House and the Natural History Museum. While many of the shows are invite-only, London Fashion Week Festival (21-24 Sep) – which used to be known as London Fashion 54 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017
Weekend – gives you the chance to get a taste of the actual event. As the name suggests, the festival has grown into something more fabulous, darling, and now takes place at The Store at 180 The Strand. Bag a front-row seat at a catwalk show from one of London’s latest designers; browse the pop-up shop that stocks more than 150 brands for men and women, including Alexander White, Ducie and House of Spring; or listen to one of the talks delivered by industry experts. Panel discussions include style director Marie Wilkinson on eyewear trends; and curator Lesley Miller on Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion at the Victoria and Albert Museum. Look out for hair and make-up stylists, too: Maybelline New York and Toni & Guy offer masterclasses on the latest trends. For those who are hoping to enter the world of fashion, there are talks by a panel of industry experts on how to make it into jobs such as marketing, photography and filmmaking. The Store, 180 The Strand, WC2R 1EA. T: 0115-896 0030. www.londonfashionweekfestival.com
REGENT STREET At Regent Street Fashion and Design Month (1-30 Sep; above) bookable talks and seminars take place – confirmed guests include Oscar-winning costume designer Jenny Beavan, and celebrity photographer David Montgomery. You can also join workshops on knitting and sewing. www.regentstreetonline.com
CARNABY STREET Carnaby Fashion Festival (21-24 Sep) is a celebration of fashion and beauty in the still swinging street. Look out for free fashion and beauty talks, workshops and giveaways in the world-famous area. Events range from Urban Decay, which has a Beauty with an Edge masterclass with selfie stations and goody bags (21 Sep), to Lazy Oaf, which has DJs in store (21 Sep). www.carnaby.co.uk
ALL FASHION IMAGES COURTESY OF LONDON FASHION WEEK; REGENT STREET © ISTOCK
You don’t have to be a celebrity to enjoy London Fashion Week, says Kohinoor Sahota. Get set for catwalk shows and masterclasses for all
FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM
T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81
MAJOR SHOPPING AREAS
MAJOR STORES
Bond Street
Designer names and regular events. Mon-Wed; Fri & Sat 10am-7pm; Thur 10am-8pm; Sun noon6pm. www.fenwick.co.uk. 63 New Bond St, W1S 1RQ. T: 020-7629 9161. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Home to designer boutiques, antiques, art and jewellery. D6/E6/E7. Station: Bond Street.
Canary Wharf A first-class shopping destination located in a smart and impressive development in the Docklands. Map inset. Station: Canary Wharf.
Carnaby Street Once the domain for 1960s mods and rockers, these days the Carnaby area appeals to the fashionable set, with sports-inspired stores and edgy designers. D7/E7. Station: Oxford Circus.
Covent Garden This former fruit and vegetable market is now a popular centre for arts, crafts and special interest shops and stalls. The Piazza is surrounded by street entertainers. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Gabriel’s Wharf A small but charming wharf that’s home to some interesting craftspeople, from ceramicists to jewellers. You’ll also find a selection of restaurants including the OXO Tower. E9. Station: Waterloo.
Hatton Garden This hidden historic corner of London is home to the jewellery trade and the centre of the diamond industry. C9/D9. Station: Farringdon.
Jermyn Street & St James’s Some of the oldest specialist menswear shops in London are found in this area, including hatters and shirtmakers. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
GLOBULAR VASE WITH GOLD DECORATION BY GIÒ PONTI FOR RICHARD GINORI, MILAN 1930S COURTESY OF LAPADA
King’s Road Once famous for upmarket and alternative fashion, this street still attracts a stylish crowd. Department store Peter Jones is good for homeware, and Duke of York Square has stylish shops and a food market. G4. Station: Sloane Square.
Oxford Street Europe’s busiest shopping street has major department stores including Selfridges and John Lewis, plus popular high-street chains. D6/D7. Station: Oxford Circus/Bond Street/Marble Arch/ Tottenham Court Road.
Fenwick
Fortnum & Mason This British institution is famed for its food hall. Mon-Sat 10am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.fortnum andmason.com. 181 Piccadilly, W1A 1ER. T: 0845-300 1707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Hamleys One of the world’s biggest toy shops. Mon-Fri 9am-10pm; Sat 9.30am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.hamleys.com. 188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT. T: 0871-704 1977. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
Harrods Edwardian food and meat halls, and fashion brands (p. 56). Mon-Fri 10am-9pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.harrods.com. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.
House of Fraser Fashion, beauty, homeware and electrical goods. Mon-Fri 9.30am-10pm; Sun noon-6.30pm. www.houseoffraser.com. 318 Oxford St, W1C 1HF. T: 0844-800 3752. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
John Lewis Designer labels, homeware and more. Mon-Wed & Fri 9.30am-8pm; Thur 9.30am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.johnlewis.com. 300 Oxford St, W1A 1EX. T: 020-7629 7711. D4. Station: Oxford Circus.
Marks & Spencer Reliable source for lingerie, fashion and food (multiple locations). Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun noon6pm. www.marksandspencer.com. 458 Oxford St, W1C 1AP. T: 020-7935 7954. D6. Station: Marble Arch.
Liberty Heritage combined with cutting-edge design and the brand’s famous prints. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.liberty.co.uk. Great Marlborough St, W1B 5AH. T: 020-7734 1234. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
Selfridges Browse some of the finest products in beauty and fashion, including exclusive and limitededition products. Mon-Sat 9.30am-10pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.selfridges.com. 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 0800-123 400. D6. Station: Bond Street.
LUXURY ARCADES Burlington Arcade Regency arcade running from Burlington Gardens to Piccadilly, featuring fine jewellery, fragrance and fashion brands. Each morning it opens with a gate ceremony. www.burlington-arcade.co.uk. Burlington Arcade, W1J 0QJ. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Leadenhall Market A grand Victorian covered market in the heart of the City, bustling with elegant boutiques, restaurants and pubs. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk. Leadenhall Market, Gracechurch St, EC3V 1LR. T: 020-7621 0709. D11. Station: Monument.
Fair and square The LAPADA Arts and Antiques Fair (15-20 Sep) in Berkeley Square showcases 100 exhibitors covering jewellery, clocks and art. Prices range from £500 to £500,000 – with pieces for first-time buyers and collectors. The fair includes established as well as new designers. Even if you are not planning to buy, it serves as an insight into collectible items. Berkeley Square, W1J 6EB. T: 020-7823 3511. www.lapadalondon.com. E6. Station: Green Park
Regent Street Originally designed by John Nash, this prestigious area includes Apple, Liberty, Swarovski, the first British Ferrari shop and Burberry. D6/D7/E7. Station: Oxford Circus/Piccadilly Circus.
Savile Row One of London’s most famous areas for tailoring is in upmarket Mayfair. Find bespoke tailors including Anderson & Sheppard, Gieves & Hawkes, Hardy Amies and Kilgour. E7. Station: Green Park.
Seven Dials In the heart of Covent Garden are seven quirky streets full of independent boutiques, heritage brands and vintage stores. www.sevendials.co.uk. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
St Christopher’s Place Home to an exciting mix of shops selling accessories, shoes, designer brands and more, plus London’s largest concentration of pavement dining. D6. Station: Bond Street. www.wheretraveler.com 55
SHOPPING
MALLS & FACTORY OUTLETS
Pandora
Bicester Village Discount designer clothes. Mon-Wed & Fri 9am-9pm; Thur & Sat 9am-10pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www.bicestervillage.com. Bicester Village, Bicester, Oxfordshire, OX26 6WD. T: 01869-323 200. Off map. Station: Bicester Village, from London Marylebone. There is also a bus pick-up service from major hotels.
Westfield London This mall has more than 300 shops, from high-street names to high-end fashion labels. www.westfield.com/london. Ariel Way, W12 7GF. T: 020-3371 2300. Map inset. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.
Westfield Stratford City Massive mall with 270 shops as well as a cinema and 24-hour casino. www.westfield.com/stratfordcity. 2 Stratford Place, E20 1EJ. T: 020-8221 7300. Map inset. Station: Stratford.
Jewellery and gifts, including Pandora’s much-loved charm bracelets that you can build. www.pandora. net. 257-259 Oxford St, W1C 2DD. T: 020-7407 2007. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
Wempe Grand, spacious setting for the luxury German family business, established in 1878. Large selection of jewellery and fine watches. www.wempe.com. 43-44 New Bond St, W1S 2SA. T: 020-7493 2299. E6. Station: Bond Street.
KIDS’ STORES The Disney Store
The Oxford Street branch has received a sprinkle of magic and has high-tech entertainment. Look out for free Burberry made coats in screenings. Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun 1914 for officers in World noon-6pm (branches in WC2 and War I. These became W12). www.disneystore.co.uk. 350-352 what is now known as Oxford St, W1C 1JH. T: 020-7491 the ‘trench coat’ 9136. D6. Station: Bond Street.
LEGO Store
SPECIALIST STORES Buckingham Palace Shop Find a wide range of unique royal souvenirs. Mon-Sat 9.30am-5pm. www.royalcollectionshop. co.uk. 7 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7839 1377. E6. Station: Victoria.
Cath Kidston Home to stylish accessories, from stationery to bags, with pretty London prints. www.cathkidston. com. 178-180 Piccadilly, W1J 9ER. T: 020-7499 9895. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
John Bell & Croyden The official pharmacy to the Queen offers emergency prescriptions. www.johnbellcroyden.co.uk. Check for opening times. 50-54 Wigmore St, W1U 2AU. T: 020-7935 5555. D6. Station: Bond Street.
London Glassblowing Home to wonderful jewellery, decorations, vases, ornaments and unusual items. You can try out a glassblowing session, too. www.londonglass blowing.co.uk. 62-66 Bermondsey St, SE1 3UD. T: 020-7403 2800. F11. Station: London Bridge.
A must for men’s and women’s fashions, this flagship boutique has the label’s signature skull scarves. www.alexandermcqueen.co.uk. 4-5 Old Bond St, W1S 4PD. T: 020-7355 0088. E7. Station: Green Park.
Two-storey megastore boasts a huge array of LEGO merchandise, including a huge replica of Big Ben made from bricks. New Mosaic Maker offers shoppers young and old the chance to build a personalised LEGO portrait. www.lego.com/en-gb/ stores. 3 Swiss Court, W1D 6AP. T: 020-7839 3480. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
Burberry
The Nickelodeon Store
We Built This City
Products inspired by the TV channel’s shows. Mon-Fri 10am-10pm; Sat 10am-11pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.nickelodeonstore.co.uk. 1 Leicester Square, WC2H 7NA. T: 020-3805 3460. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
Quirky souvenirs where classic items are given a twist. Look out for maps and illustrations. Mon-Wed 10am-7pm; Thur-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.webuiltthiscity.co.uk. 56-57 Carnaby St, W1F 9QF. T: 020-3642 9650. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.
FASHION Alexander McQueen
Find the Burberry London and Prorsum collections featuring clothing for men, women and children (multiple locations). In-store monogramming available on selected products at its Regent St store. www.burberry.com. 121 Regent Street, W1B 4TB. T: 020-7806 8904. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.
Twinings This is one of the capital’s oldest shops and is full of teas and infusions. Mon-Fri 9.30am-8pm; Sat 10am5pm; Sun 11am-6pm. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.
Hackett Polos, sporting jackets, cords, suits and accessories (multiple locations around London). www.hackett. com. 193-197 Regent St, W1B 4LY. T: 020-7494 4917. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Juicy Couture Find clothing, jewellery and accessories for women, including contemporary casualwear. www.juicy couture.com. 198 Regent St, W1B 5TP. T: 020-7734 2413. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
River Island Stylish, affordable fashion for men, women and children. Look out for the Style Studio, a personal shopper lounge with sofas and a bar. www.riverisland.com. 473 Oxford St, W1C 3AU. T: 0344-334 0506. D5. Station: Marble Arch.
Harry Winston The king of diamond jewellery in London for more than 80 years. Discover the beautifully designed gems loved by international royalty and Hollywood’s elite. www.harrywinston.com. 171 New Bond St, W1S 4RD. T: 020-7907 8800. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Links of London Beautifully crafted jewellery and watches with high-quality designs. www.linksoflondon.com. 491 Oxford St, W1A 2LR. T: 020-7491 2371. D5. Station: Bond Street. 56 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017
Diamonds are forever London’s iconic jeweller, De Beers, has opened a new outlet in the world-famous department store Harrods (p. 55). François Delage, CEO of De Beers Diamond Jewellers, says: ‘We have designed this new space with our local and international clients in mind to fully express our brand’s uniqueness.’ Look out for the new collection, which includes the DB Darling diamond engagement ring. If you want to design your own bespoke ring, individually crafted by De Beers, visit one of the private salons, where you can take advantage of the For you, Forever service.
DE BEERS IMAGE COURTESY OF DE BEERS
JEWELLERY & WATCHES
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SHOPPING
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mall, Dover Street Market offers clothing, accessories and shoes from dozens of designer brands. Browse concessions from Paul Smith, Céline, Dior and Gucci, which feel like walk-in wardrobes. 18-22 Haymarket, SW1Y 4DG. T: 020-7518 0680. www.doverstreetmarket.com
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FALL IN LOVE , WITH LONDON S FINEST DIAMONDS Visit Hatton Garden and fall in love with London’s finest collection of jewellery and diamonds Nestled in the heart of Holborn and just a short taxi ride from London’s West End, you’ll find the historical area of Hatton Garden. Here you’ll discover one of London’s hidden gems; a place steeped in history and romance since Queen Elizabeth I gifted a house and garden in the grounds of Ely Palace to a handsome courtier in 1576. By 1870, Hatton Garden had established an international reputation as London’s jewellery quarter and the UK’s centre for diamonds. As the trend for more extravagant and expensive items of jewellery grew, the demand for hand-made fine jewellery and exquisite diamonds increased. The specialist jewellers in Hatton Garden became famous for trading diamonds, often shipping rare stones around the world as jewellery became a symbol of not only wealth
and stature, but of love and affection. Today, the romance lives on and the Hatton Garden Jewellery Group is a collection of eight stores in Hatton Garden near Farringdon. Since the group’s flagship store Beverley Hills Jewellers opened in 1987, the family-owned brand has carved out a reputation for leading the local market in truly British jewellery design including bespoke diamond pieces, coloured gemstones and remodelling of existing jewellery. So if you’re looking to purchase a token of your love and affection for someone special in your life then look to one of Hatton Garden Jewellery Group’s stores to find your desired piece! For more information, please ask your Concierge for directions and visit any of our stores or call T: 020-7405 4847 and ask to speak to the group’s General Manager, Carolyn Jackson.
VISITORS OFFERED 30% DISCOUNT OFF RRP (excluding pre-owned and sale goods)
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The English Oak Collection launches this month. Inspired by the smells of the forest, the range includes a cologne, body wash, body cream and, most famously, candles. The products come in oak and hazelnut with basil and neroli, and oak and redcurrant with blackberry and bay. 150 Sloane Terrace, SW1X 9BX. T: 0370-192 5121. www.jomalone.co.uk
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TAX-FREE SHOPPING Value Added Tax (VAT) is a 20% sales tax added on all goods except food, books and children’s clothing. Overseas visitors from outside the EU can shop tax-free in the UK, recouping some of the cost of the item. Don’t forget to ask in-store for more information about tax-free shopping. C
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Come and explore Hamleys Toy Shop! With over 50,000 Toys across 7 floors! Normal opening times for most shops are Mon-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 11am-5pm unless stated otherwise. Some shops may stay open until 9pm on Thursdays for late-night shopping.
188-196 Regent Street, London W1B 5BT
www.hamleys.com/explore
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DINING | THE GUIDE
Best of British
Top to bottom: two plates at Magpie; cocktails at Henrietta; a dish at Henrietta
62 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017
It’s not only the plethora of Michelin-starred restaurants in London that we can boast about, but also the quality and quantity of British chefs creating modern British cuisine. Although there’s a long list of stalwart chefs, from Gordon Ramsay to Heston Blumenthal, 2010 was ground-breaking: three young British chefs – James Lowe, Ben Greeno and Isaac McHale, who called themselves the Young Turks – hosted pop-up dinners to great acclaim. Their philosophy was to use British ingredients to create clean, flavoursome dishes. Since then, their success has been immense: McHale is head chef of east London’s esteemed The Clove Club, and Lowe heads up Michelin-starred Lyle’s. And there are many more inspiring, passionate young chefs who have worked their way up in the industry. Add to that list Ollie Dabbous. He opened the eponymous, boundary-breaking Dabbous in 2012, on Whitfield Street, which earned him a Michelin star. His latest restaurant is Henrietta, in Covent Garden, nestled in the boutique hotel of the same name. Henrietta champions British cuisine, and is part of a craze of prettyas-a-picture plates of petal-strewn dishes. Here, chefs use a fresh, summery concept of leaves, sprigs of fresh herbs and rainbow-hued flowers in seasonal dishes: starters such as a rich beef tartare with nasturtium, and grilled flatbread with sesame labneh with blossoms. Choose a main, perhaps seven-year grass-fed Simmental sirloin with crushed green herbs. A custard tart packed with raspberries and pickled rose petals keeps the floral theme going – and is divine (14-15 Henrietta St, WC2E 8QH). Another opening to look out for is Magpie, from Sam Herlihy and James Ramsden. These thirty-something chefs co-founded Pidgin, a Michelin-starred supper club-turned-restaurant in Hackney. Their new Mayfair offering is a modern interpretation of a dim sum restaurant, complete with trolleys laden with small plates, wheeled around the dining room to each table. Pick dishes to share, such as mackerel crudo with fennel pollen, and grilled celeriac with a watermelon barbecue sauce. Save space for desserts, including strawberry panzanella with olive oil ice cream. And to prove that the duo have retained their fun side, there’s a drinks trolley with cocktails such as Smoke off the Mountain, a rum-based Manhattan with peated whisky (10 Heddon St, W1B 4BX). With new restaurants such as these, it looks like the British chefs will always make their mark on the city – whatever their age.
MAGPIE IMAGES COURTESY OF MAGPIE; HENRIETTA IMAGES COURTESY OF HENRIETTA
A new generation of chefs is breaking boundaries, reveals Emma Levine
FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM
T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (‘Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. B (breakfast), L (lunch), D (dinner). Prices per person for three courses: £: up to £25; ££: £25-£40; £££: £40-80; ££££: £80 +. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on map on p. 80-81
AMERICAS (NORTH & SOUTH) Avenue Contemporary wining and dining Manhattan-style. £££. Mon-Fri B, L & D; Sat & Sun brunch; Sat D. www.avenue-restaurant.co.uk. 7-9 St James’s St, SW1A 1EE. T: 020-7321 2111. E7. Station: Green Park.
Gaucho Succulent Argentine steaks, plus a wine bar and entertainment. ££££. Daily L & D (and branches). www.gauchorestaurants.co.uk. 25 Swallow St, W1B 4QR. T: 020-7734 4040. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Goodman Premium New York steakhouse with dry-aged US and British beef, plus dishes such as lobster tail with garlic butter. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.good manrestaurants.com. 26 Maddox St, W1S 1QH. T: 020-7499 3776. E6. Station: Oxford Circus.
Hard Rock Cafe London’s original burger joint is more than 40 years old, and has lots of rock memorabilia, funky décor and a fun atmosphere. ££. Daily L & D. www.hardrock.com. 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1LB. T: 020-7514 1700. E8. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Heliot Steak House Hippodrome Casino’s restaurant, over the main gaming floor, serves British classics and USDA beef. £££. Daily L & D. www.hippodromecasino.com. Leicester Square, 42-43 Cranbourn St, WC2H 7JH. T: 020-7769 8888. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
BRITISH (MODERN) Aqua Shard Contemporary cuisine created from local produce matches the fantastic views at this slick restaurant on The Shard’s 32nd floor. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.aquashard.co.uk. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-3011 1256. E10. Station: London Bridge.
Butlers Restaurant Enjoy top English cuisine in an elegant Mayfair restaurant, famed for its Dover sole. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.chesterfieldmayfair.com. 35 Charles St, W1J 5EB. T: 020-7491 2622. E6. Station: Green Park.
Caxton Grill Superb selection of steaks cooked in the Josper grill, plus seafood dishes such as lobster with Hollandaise, in a stylish venue. ££££. Daily L & D. www.caxtongrill.co.uk. 2 Caxton St, SW1H 0QW. T: 020-7227 7777. F7. Station: St James’s Park.
Cheneston’s
Dinner by Heston Blumenthal The superchef offers a menu influenced by historic British gastronomy. ££££. Daily L & D; booking essential. www.dinnerbyheston.com. Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, 66 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LA. T: 020-7201 3833. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.
Fera at Claridge’s Enjoy creative British dishes from local, organic ingredients, served in a beautiful Art Deco restaurant. ££££. Daily L & D. www.claridges. co.uk/fera. Claridge’s Hotel, Brook St, W1K 4HR. T: 020-7107 8888. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Great Court Restaurant Enjoy lunch or afternoon tea above the huge museum’s iconic Reading Room. ££. Daily L; Fri D. www.britishmuseum.org. British Museum, Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8990. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Holborn.
Holborn Dining Room
Intimate restaurant serving tasty dishes. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.milestonehotel.com. The Milestone Hotel, 1 Kensington Court, W8 5DL. T: 020-7917 1000. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.
This smart brasserie adjoining the stylish Rosewood hotel serves classic British dishes with a twist. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.holborndining room.com. 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8633. D8. Station: Holborn.
City Social
Indigo
Jason Atherton’s award-winning restaurant and bar boasts a creative menu and city views. £££. Mon-Fri L & D, Sat D. www.citysociallondon.com. Tower 42, 25 Old Broad St, EC2N 1HQ. T: 020-7877 7703. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.
All-day restaurant serves excellent British dishes that are entirely gluten and dairy-free. ££-£££. Daily B & D; Mon-Fri L. www.onealdwych.com. One Aldwych hotel, WC2B 4BZ. T: 020-7300 1000. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
JW Steakhouse Top-quality steakhouse offering dry-aged prime beef with a variety of sides, starters and toppings. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.jwsteakhouse.co.uk. Grosvenor House Hotel, 86 Park Lane, W1K 7TL. T: 020-7399 8460. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Lima Michelin-starred contemporary Peruvian cuisine. £££. Tue-Sun L; daily D. www.limalondon.com. 31 Rathbone Place, W1T 1JH. T: 020-3002 2640. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Oblix Sophisticated New York-style rotisserie/grill with stunning views from the 32nd floor of The Shard. £££. Daily L & D. www.oblixrestaurant.com. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-7268 6700. E10. Station: London Bridge.
Planet Hollywood This huge London branch has burgers, pizzas and cocktails, plus movie memorabilia. ££. Daily L & D (bar to 1am). www.planethollywood london.com. 57-60 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QX. T: 020-7287 1000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
MEI UME © PAUL WINCH-FURNESS
Rainforest Cafe Busy all-day dining in a mock rainforest setting with animatronic animals and a family-friendly menu. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.therainforest cafe.co.uk. 20 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7EU. T: 020-7434 3111. E3. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
STK London Dine on British and American prime steaks, with DJs playing nightly. ££££. Daily D. www.stkhouse.com. ME London Hotel, 336 Strand, WC2R 1HA. T: 020-7395 3450. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
A plum job A stellar team from Sake no Hana, Yauatcha and Royal China is behind Mei Ume, the new Chinese and Japanese restaurant in Four Seasons Hotel London At Ten Trinity Square. Like its name, which is inspired by Chinese and Japanese terms for plum blossom, there is also an Eastern influence in Mei Ume’s décor. A hand-embroidered silk screen of plum flowers hangs at the entrance, while artworks depicting traditional Chinese banquets dominate the walls. Highlights include spicy soft-shell crab and yellowtail carpaccio in truffle sauce, although its signature dish is Peking duck – crispy duck served with pancakes, leeks and cucumber. There’s also a private room for 14 and a bar with sake and whisky. 10 Trinity Square, EC3N 4AJ. T: 020-3297 3799. www.meiume.com. E11. Station: Tower Hill www.wheretraveler.com 63
DINING Rex Whistler Restaurant
Kai Mayfair
The Ivy
Dine on dishes such as Gressingham duck breast in a dining room with a century-old mural. ££. Daily L. www.tate.org.uk. Tate Britain, Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8825. G8. Station: Pimlico.
Superior Michelin-starred cuisine with dishes such as Kagoshima Wagyu beef. ££££. Daily L & D. www.kaimayfair.co.uk. 65 South Audley St, W1K 2QU. T: 020-7493 8988. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
This fashionable venue is good for a late-night dinner. £££-££££. Daily L & D (last orders midnight). www.the-ivy.co.uk. 1-5 West St, WC2H 9NQ. T: 020-7836 4751. D7. Station: Leicester Square.
St Pancras Grand
Royal China Club
Tasty British brasserie-style dishes in an ornate dining room. ££-£££. Daily B, L & D. www.searcys. co.uk. Upper Concourse, St Pancras station, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.
This huge Cantonese restaurant is popular for its dim sum, served at lunchtime, and crispy duck. ££. Daily L & D. www.royalchinagroup.co.uk. 24-26 Baker St, W1U 3BZ (and branches). T: 020-7487 4688. D6. Station: Baker Street.
OXO Tower
BRITISH (TRADITIONAL)
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Café in the Crypt This vaulted café serves homely English dishes. You can dine in the courtyard during summer. £. Mon-Sat B, L & D; Sun 11am-6pm. www.smitf.org. St Martin-in-the-Fields, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1158. D7. Station: Charing Cross.
The English Grill New restaurant with ornate chandeliers and high ceilings serving excellent grilled meats, plus daily roasts. ££££. Daily B, L, D. www.rubenshotel.com. The Rubens at the Palace, 39 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PS. T: 020-7834 6600. F6. Station: Victoria.
Mews of Mayfair An 18th-century mews house with a brasserie, lounge and cocktail bar, plus a cobbled courtyard. £££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D. www.mewsofmayfair.com. 10 Lancashire Court, New Bond St, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388. E6. Station: Bond Street.
The Ritz Restaurant Enjoy classic British dishes in a pretty dining room, with top-notch service. Men should wear a jacket and tie. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.theritz london.com. The Ritz hotel, 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7300 2370. E6/7. Station: Green Park.
1 Lombard Street Hearty, modern cooking in this brasserie, a former bank, with a huge glass dome. £££. Mon-Fri B, L & D. www.1lombardstreet.com. 1 Lombard St, EC3V 9AA. T: 020-7929 6611. D10. Station: Bank.
The Delaunay This Theatreland venue’s interior and menu are inspired by central Europe’s grand cafés. Specialities include kedgeree, schnitzels and Frankfurter sausages. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.thedelaunay.com. 55 Aldwych, WC2B 4BB. T: 020-7499 8558. E8. Station: Temple.
Galvin at Windows Michelin-starred restaurant on the 28th floor, with great views over the capital. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L; Mon-Sat D. www.galvin atwindows.com. Hilton on Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208 4021. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Elegant restaurant on the Thames with stunning views. ££££. Daily L & D. www.oxotower.co.uk. OXO Tower Wharf, Barge House St, South Bank, SE1 9PH. T: 020-7803 3888. E9. Station: Waterloo.
Skylon Stylish dining with river views, with dishes such as spiced duck breast. ££££. Daily L & D. www.skylon -restaurant.co.uk. Royal Festival Hall, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-7654 7800. E8. Station: Waterloo.
Ting Superb restaurant in The Shard’s Shangri-La hotel serves dishes with an Asian twist. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.shangri-la.com/london. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8108. F10. Station: London Bridge.
FISH AND SEAFOOD J Sheekey Chic seafood spot with an oyster and Champagne bar, plus seasonal game. ££££. Daily L & D. www.j-sheekey.co.uk. 28-35 St Martin’s Court, WC2N 4AL. T: 020-7240 2565. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Poppie’s Traditional fish and chip shop with 1950s décor. £. Daily L & D. www.poppiesfishandchips.co.uk. 55 Old Compton St, W1D 6HW. T: 020-7734 4845. D7. Station: Leicester Square.
Serpentine Bar & Kitchen Enjoy hearty dishes or a light lunch on a terrace overlooking the Serpentine lake. £. Daily B & L. www.benugo.com/restaurants/serpentine-barkitchen. Serpentine Rd, Hyde Park, W2 2UH. T: 020-7706 8114. E5. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Sophie’s Steakhouse & Bar Modern restaurant with roast beef, steaks and terrine boards, plus a good pre-theatre menu. ££. Daily L & D. www.sophiessteakhouse.co.uk. 311-313 Fulham Rd, SW10 9QH. T: 020-7352 0088. Off map. Station: Gloucester Rd.
CHINESE Bright Courtyard Club
Chai Wu Located in Harrods, this restaurant serves dishes such as Wagyu beef, Alaskan king crab and Chilean sea bass (p. 68). ££££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D (until 8pm). www.chaiwu.co.uk. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-3819 8888. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.
Hakkasan Stylish, Michelin-starred restaurant serving fusion and traditional dishes. ££££. Daily L & D; Thur-Sat last orders 12.30am. www.hakkasan.com. 8 Hanway Place, W1T 1HF (and Mayfair branch). T: 020-7927 7000. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road. 64 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017
A super chef After being a judge on the BBC series MasterChef, and a chef at Michel Roux Junior’s Michelin-starred restaurant Le Gavroche for 15 years, Monica Galetti has finally opened her own restaurant: Mere (pronounced ‘Mary’). And it’s certainly worth the wait. The Samoan-born Kiwi, together with her husband, sommelier David Galetti, has created a sophisticated, elegant venue, featuring touches of her heritage courtesy of Samoan art on the walls. The menu, of regularly changing seasonal dishes, is predominantly French with South Pacific influences, such as John Dory with pan-fried mussels, lamb rump with harissa and feta, and an intriguing tomato with smoked bacon and Marmite emulsion. Wine pairings are sublime, as you’d expect, in this welcome addition to the heart of Fitzrovia. 74 Charlotte St, W1T 4QH. T: 020-7268 6565. www.mere-restaurant.com. D7. Station: Goodge Street
PHOTO COURTESY OF MERE RESTAURANT
Excellent Cantonese and Shanghai dishes, including dim sum. £££. Daily L & D. www.brightcourtyard. co.uk. 43-45 Baker St, W1U 8EW. T: 020-7486 6998. D6. Station: Baker Street.
THREE OF THE VERY BEST INDIAN RESTAUR ANTS This award winning sophisticated Indian Grill offers intense flavours with an innovative twist, in a theatrical open kitchen setting. Michelin star. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Halkin Arcade, Motcomb Street Knightsbridge, London SW1X 8JT T: 020 7823 1166 E: amaya@realindianfood.com Private dining room seats 14
The rich setting, interesting art and romantic candle lighting are secondary details in London’s haven of great Indian contemporary food. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week; weekend brunch with live music. 73 St James’s Street, London SW1A 1PH T: 020 7629 6688 E: chutneymary@realindianfood.com Two private dining rooms seat 30 and 16
Classical dishes, lovingly prepared and beautifully served in sumptuous surroundings overlooking Regent Street. The oldest Indian restaurant in the world. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 1st floor 99 Regent Street, London W1B 4RS T: 020 7734 1401 E: veeraswamy@realindianfood.com Private dining room seats 24
DINING The Sea Shell
Céleste
The Thomas Cubitt
Enjoy hearty fish and chips, or pan-seared king scallops. ££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.seashell restaurant.co.uk. 49-51 Lisson Grove, NW1 6UH. T: 020-7224 9000. C5. Station: Marylebone.
Michelin-starred cuisine in a grand dining room. £££-££££. Daily B, L & D. www.lanesborough.com. The Lanesborough hotel, Hyde Park Corner, SW1X 7TA. T: 020-7259 5599. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Classic dining room above a traditional bar, serving top-quality British produce. £££. Daily L & D. www.thethomascubitt.co.uk. 44 Elizabeth St, SW1W 9PA. T: 020-7730 6060. G6. Station: Victoria.
FRENCH
Clos Maggiore
The Wells
Exquisite dining room with a cherry blossom-adorned conservatory. There’s an outstanding wine list, and dishes such as herbsmoked whole rack of lamb. £££. Daily L & D. www.closmaggiore.com. 333 King St, WC2 8JD. T: 020-7379 9696. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Bright and airy pub near Hampstead Heath serving seasonal British cuisine. ££. Daily L & D. www.thewellshampstead.co.uk. 30 Well Walk, NW3 1BX. T: 020-7794 3785. Off map. Station: Hampstead.
Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester Phenomenal and innovative food from this world-famous Michelin-starred chef. ££££. Tue-Fri L & D; Sat D. Booking essential. www.alainducasse-dorchester.com. The Dorchester, Park Lane, W1K 1QA. T: 020-7629 8866. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Bistrot de Luxe This classic Parisian-style restaurant from the Galvin brothers has superb, classic dishes. ££££. Daily L & D. www.galvinrestaurants.com. 66 Baker St, W1U 7DJ. T: 020-7935 4007. D6. Station: Baker Street.
Brasserie Joël This smart brasserie serves classics such as tuna tartare. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L & D; daily D. www.brasseriejoel.co.uk. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7272. F8. Station: Westminster.
L’Escargot London’s oldest French restaurant serves classic dishes. ££. Mon-Sat B, L & D; Sun L. www.le scargot.co.uk. 48 Greek St, W1D 4EF. T: 020-7439 7474. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Sketch Multiple restaurants under one roof, including a stylish brasserie with artwork by David Shrigley, serving creative Frewnch-European cuisine. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.sketch.uk.com. 9 Conduit St, W1S 2XG. T: 020-7659 4500. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.
GASTROPUBS
Brasserie Zédel
The Grazing Goat
Bustling French brasserie serving excellent value prix-fixe menus. £-££. Daily L & D. www.brasserie zedel.com. 20 Sherwood St, W1F 7ED. T: 0207734 4888. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
All-day dining, with seasonal dishes such as lamb rump with tomato fregola. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.thegrazinggoat.co.uk. 6 New Quebec St, W1H 7RQ. T: 020-7724 7243. D5. Station: Marble Arch.
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INDIAN Amaya This Michelin-starred venue serves dishes that are full of exotic twists, cooked in its open grill kitchen. £££. Daily L & D. www.amaya.biz. Halkin Arcade, Motcomb St, SW1X 8JT. T: 020-7823 1166. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.
Baluchi at the Lalit London Majestic Indian restaurant in this five-star hotel in a Grade II-listed Victorian building. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.thelalit.com. 181 Tooley St, SW1 2JR. T: 020-3765 0000. E11. Station: London Bridge.
Benares World-famous Michelin-starred chef Atul Kochhar creates modern Indian cuisine in this refined restaurant. ££££. Mon-Sat L & D, Sun D. www.benaresrestaurant.com. 12a Berkeley Square House, Berkeley Square, W1J 6BS. T: 020-7629 8886. E6. Station: Green Park.
DINING Chutney Mary
The Cavendish
Expect a gourmet tour of seven Indian regions in this glamorous restaurant, recently relocated. £££. Mon-Fri B, L & D; Sat L & D. www.chutneymary. com. 73 St James’s St, SW1 1PH. T: 020-7629 6688. E7. Station: Green Park.
This timeless restaurant serves mains such as rabbit ravioli and wild salmon with tapenade. ££-£££. Daily L & D. 35 New Cavendish St, W1G 9TR. www.35newcavendish.co.uk. T: 020-7487 3030. C5. Station: Baker Street.
Gaylord
SushiSamba
Iconic Indian restaurant serving award-winning sheekh kebabs and Mughal dishes. ££. Daily L & D. www.gaylordlondon.com. 79-81 Mortimer St, W1W 7SJ. T: 020-7580 3615. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
Gymkhana This Michelin-starred venue, with a colonial style, focuses on tandoori and charcoal grills. £££. Daily L & D. www.gymkhanalondon.com. 42 Albemarle St, W1S 4JH. T: 020-3011 5900. E6. Station: Green Park.
Japanese, Brazilian and Peruvian fusion cuisine at this rooftop terrace with 360-degree views across the capital. Try the ‘anticuchos’ skewers cooked over a traditional robata grill or sea bass tempura. £££. Daily L & D. www.sushisamba.com. 38th Floor, 110 Bishopsgate, EC2N 4AY. T: 020-3640 7330. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.
ITALIAN Cicchetti All-day dining with regional specialities to share at this sophisticated restaurant. The beef meatballs and scallop gratin are particularly good. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.sancarlocicchetti.co.uk. 30 Wellington St, WC2E 7BD (and Piccadilly branch). T: 020-7494 9435. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Quattro Passi Try the raw seafood bar or king prawn risotto at this Michelin-starred venue. ££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.quattropassi.co.uk. 34 Dover St, W1S 4NG. T: 020-3096 1444. E6. Station: Green Park.
Khan’s of Kensington Enjoy North Indian tandoor, fish and vegetarian dishes. ££. Daily L & D. www.khansofkensington. co.uk. 3 Harrington Rd, SW7 3ES. T: 020-7584 4114. G4. Station: South Kensington.
La Porte des Indes
A REAL TASTE OF INDIA
Dine in a former Edwardian ballroom for a taste of colonial India, with French-Creole influences. £££. Daily L & D. www.laportedesindes.com. 32 Bryanston St, W1H 7EG. T: 020-7224 0055. D6. Station: Marble Arch.
Little India This cosy venue specialises in dishes from Bengal, including fish bhuna. ££. Daily L & D. www.little indialondon.com. 32 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 020-7584 3476. F4. Station: Gloucester Road.
Masala Zone In this chain of vibrant restaurants, enjoy great-value Indian street food, plus the flavourpacked grand thali. £. Daily L & D (and branches). www.masalazone.com. 9 Marshall St, W1F 7ER. T: 020-7287 9966. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
Memories of India Try authentic flavours from North India, with specialities including spiced lamb. ££. Daily L & D. www.memoriesofindia.com. 18 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 020-7589 6450. G4. Station: Gloucester Road.
Mint Leaf Contemporary Indian dishes in this stylish restaurant. Try the grilled prawns with fenugreek. £££. Mon-Fri L; daily D. www.mintleaflondon.com. Suffolk Place, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HX. T: 020-7930 9020. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Tamarind Michelin-starred take on Mughal cuisine is served in a smart Mayfair dining room. £££. Daily L & D. www.tamarindrestaurant.com. 20 Queen St, W1J 5PR. T: 020-7629 3561. E6. Station: Green Park.
Veeraswamy This opulent Michelin-starred restaurant has stylish cuisine from several regions of India. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.veeraswamy.com. Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 99 Regent St, W1B 4RS. T: 020-7734 1401. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
INTERNATIONAL Bbar Enjoy top-quality meat at this relaxed restaurant and bar, near Buckingham Palace. ££. Daily L & D. www.bbarlondon.com. 43 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7958 7000. F6. Station: Victoria.
BAYSWATER, 75 BISHOPS BRIDGE RD COVENT GARDEN, 48 FLORAL ST SELFRIDGES 4TH FL, 400 OXFORD ST EARLS COURT, 147 EARLS COURT ROAD
CAMDEN, 25 PARKWAY ISLINGTON, 80 UPPER ST SOHO, 9 MARSHALL ST
M ASA LA ZO N E .CO M
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DINING Momo
Enjoy Neapolitan food in an informal setting. ££. Daily L & D. www.rossopomodoro.co.uk. John Lewis, 300 Oxford St, W1C 1DX (and branches). T: 020-7629 7711. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
Decadent candlelit restaurant with Moroccan décor, serving mezze, couscous and tagine dishes. £££. Daily L & D. www.momoresto.com. 25 Heddon St, W1B 4BH. T: 020-7434 4040. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Verdi – Italian Kitchen Dine on fresh Italian classics or enjoy afternoon tea, plus live music brunch at weekends. ££. Tue-Sun L & D. www.verdiitalian.com. Royal Albert Hall, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7070 4401. F4. Station: South Kensington.
JAPANESE & KOREAN Benihana Talented chefs create griddle-cooked dishes at your table; try the Wagyu beef or miso black cod. £££. Daily L & D. www.benihana.co.uk. 37 Sackville St, W1S 3EH (and branches). T: 020-7494 2525. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Engawa This refined Japanese restaurant has tasting menus, plus excellent Kobe beef in different cuts for you to choose from. £££. Daily L & D. www.engawa.uk. 2 Ham Yard, W1D 7DT. T: 020-7287 5724. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Nobu Delicious sashimi, sushi and tempura from the acclaimed Japanese chef Nobu Matsuhisa. ££££. Daily L & D. www.noburestaurants.com. 19 Old Park Lane, W1K 1LB. T: 020-7447 4747. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
MIDDLE EASTERN, GREEK & TURKISH
Nopi Middle Eastern-inspired food from Yotam Ottolenghi with seasonal dishes to share in an informal space. Try the courgette and manouri fritters and twice-cooked baby chicken with chilli jam ££-£££. Daily B & L; Mon-Sat D. www. nopi-restaurant.com. 21-22 Warwick St, W1B 5NE. T: 020-7494 9584. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Yasmeen Authentic Lebanese cuisine in the heart of St John’s Wood, with excellent mezze, charcoalgrilled meat and vegetarian dishes. There is also outdoor seating. ££. Daily L & D. www.yasmeen restaurant.com. 1 Blenheim Terrace, NW8 0EH. T: 020-7624 2921. Off map. Station: St John’s Wood.
RIVERSIDE Bateaux London Enjoy a cruise while dining on modern British cuisine. £££. Daily L & D cruises; Sun jazz with three-course L. www.bateauxlondon.com. Embankment Pier, WC2N 6NU. T: 020-7695 1800. E8. Station: Embankment.
The London Showboat Drift down the River Thames while enjoying a four-course dinner. Nightly from £80 per person; booking essential. Departs Westminster Pier 7.45pm. www.citycruises.com. Westminster Pier, SW1A 2JR. T: 020-7740 0400. F8. Station: Westminster.
Elysee
RS Hispaniola
Since 1936, this family restaurant has been serving Greek dishes, from souvlaki to lamb cutlets. There is a roof terrace, shisha lounge and late licence. £££. Mon-Sat D. www.elyseerestaurant.com. 13 Percy St, W1T 1DP. T: 020-7636 4804. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Delightful moored restaurant boat on the River Thames serving British dishes such as braised pork belly. Opt for the deck menu for a light bite. £££. Daily L & D. www.hispaniola.co.uk. Victoria Embankment/Hungerford Bridge, WC2N 5DJ. T: 020-7839 3011. E8. Station: Embankment.
Beefing it up Nestled in the luxury store, Harrods, the very finest Chinese cuisine is served up in tranquil, contemporary surroundings at Chai Wu (p. 64). Whether sitting up at the marble counter that overlooks the kitchen and its charcoal grill, or at a quiet table away from the action, the dishes here are a class apart. That’s no surprise, bearing in mind its executive chef is Ian Pengelley, a renowned expert in Asian cuisine. The Wagyu tomahawk beef comes to your table in succulent slices, a melt-in-the-mouth delight, and alongside dishes such as lobster noodles. You could opt for Peking duck, also carved at your table, or the roast duck with black truffle. Even though you are dining in the hub of Knightsbridge, it seems like you’ve been transported to the heart of China.
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SOUTH EAST ASIAN Chi Kitchen Pan-Asian cuisine in the department store Debenhams; see the chefs at work in an open-plan dining space. Try the dim sum or signature Malaysian curries. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.chi kitchen.co.uk. 334-348 Oxford St, W1C 1JG. T: 020-3841 6888. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
Mango Tree Elegant fine dining with regional Thai cuisine, such as sea bass wrapped in banana leaf. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.mangotree.org.uk. 46 Grosvenor Place, SW1X 7EQ. T: 020-7823 1888. F6. Station: Victoria.
Thai Pot This informal spot offers a huge range of good-value Thai dishes. £. Mon-Sat L & D. www.thaipot.biz. 1 Bedfordbury, WC2N 4BP. T: 020-7379 4580. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
SPANISH El Pirata This buzzing Mayfair bar-restaurant serves authentic hot and cold tapas, including deep-fried monkfish medallions and boquerones (anchovies in vinegar). ££-£££. Mon-Fri L & D; Sat D. www.elpirata.co.uk. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AG. T: 020-7491 3810. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Iberica Victoria Traditional dishes are given a modern twist. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.ibericarestaurants.com.
5-6 Zig Zag Building, 68 Victoria St, SW1E 6SQ. T: 020-3327 0200. F7. Station: Victoria.
Moro North Africa meets Spain in this Moorish restaurant, serving aromatic dishes with exotic spices. The wood-roasted chicken with sage labneh, farika and spiced chopped salad is excellent. £££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D. www.moro.co.uk. 34-36 Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QE. T: 020-7833 8336. Off map. Station: Farringdon.
VEGETARIAN The Gate The latest branch has tasty dishes such as butternut rotolo. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.the gaterestaurants.com. 22-24 Seymour Place, W1H 7NL. T: 020-7724 6656. D5. Station: Marble Arch.
Mildreds This comfortable, informal Soho institution has hearty meat-free dishes, such as wild mushroom and ale pie. ££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.mildreds. co.uk. 45 Lexington St, W1F 9AN. T: 020-7494 1634. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
Tibits At the buffet counter, help yourself to crunchy salads, hot dishes and healthy puddings and pay by plate weight. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.tibits.co.uk. 12-14 Heddon St, off Regent St, W1B 4DA. T: 020-7758 4110. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Woodlands Tasty cuisine from all over India. Enjoy dishes such as Mysore dosas, hearty thalis and cashew pakoras. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.woodlands restaurant.co.uk. 77 Marylebone Lane, W1U 2PS (and branches). T: 020-7486 3862. D6. Station: Bond Street.
CHAI WU COURTESY OF CHAI WU
Rossopomodoro
Time for tea For the quintessential English experience, stop for an afternoon tea with a twist
BRIGHT COURTYARD CLUB restaurant · lounge · events Bright Courtyard Club is a contemporary Chinese restaurant situated in the landmark building, 55 Baker Street.
Sophisticated, fashionable yet discreet, we are definitely the ideal venue for your important lunch meeting, tranquil afternoon tea or full-filled dinner party. BCY offer our guests an all-day grazing experience, specializing in authentic dim sum, modern Cantonese and traditional Shanghai cuisine with a twist. The Three private suites can accommodate 8 to 20 guests. Our glass-roofed courtyard lounge can accommodate 200 seated or 250 standing.
ROSEWOOD LONDON If you want holiday pictures to make your friends envious, visit the Rosewood London for food that is too pretty to eat. In the stunning Mirror Room, the picture-perfect afternoon tea is inspired by the capital’s vibrant art scene. After delicate sandwiches, get arty: savour milk chocolate mousse and passion fruit crémeux inspired by Japanese sculptor Yayoi Kusama; white chocolate tart with cassis jelly and coloured spots of gel, themed on Damien Hirst’s pharmaceuticalstyle works; and a tiny replica of Banksy’s ‘girl with a balloon’ on a white chocolate cube. 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8620. www.rosewoodhotels.com
It’s time to plan your Christmas party either for your family or company. Set menus are available for inquiry. Our experienced event organising team will give the highest levels of dedication and attention to detail.
43-45 Baker Street London W1U 8EW t: 020 7486 6998 www.brightcourtyard.co.uk
AQUAVIT It’s time to venture to Scandinavia, and to Aquavit (above) in St James’s Market. Set out like a grand European café, with dark wood furnishings and high ceilings, its Nordic afternoon tea brings to you a smørrebrød – which literally translates as a platter of bread with toppings – with gravlax tartare, shrimp skagen, liver paté and venison tartare. St James’s Market, 1 Carlton St, SW1Y 4QQ. T: 020-7024 9848. www.aquavitrestaurants.com
THE ENGLISH GRILL English Tradition, Dining and Design at its Finest
The English Gri
TEA IMAGE COURTESY OF AQUAVIT
AMETSA WITH ARZAK INSTRUCTION The typical English afternoon tea is given a Spanish twist at Michelin-starred Ametsa with Arzak Instruction, at Como the Halkin hotel, which brings in elements of Basque cuisine. Enjoy an array of divine savoury tapas, perhaps with duck and shallot skewers, green pea ‘cuajada’ and ham croquettes. Sweet treats take a Mediterranean slant: orange toast with spinach and quince balls. You could opt for tea, and treat yourself to bubbly – Cava, of course. Halkin St, SW1X 7DJ. T: 020-7333 1000. www.comohotels.com
The Rubens at The Palace
39 Buckingham Palace Road, London, SW1W 0PS Telephone: +44 (0)20 7834 6600 | rubenshotel.com
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W H E R E
L O N D O N
P R O M O T I O N
BEST OF LONDON DINING Little India One of the few Indian restaurants owned and managed by a lady. Why not come and try our signature dish ‘Naga Chicken’ – cooked in spices and a naga chilli and tossed dry, as well as this we pride ourselves in traditional home style cooking. Come and enjoy a truly unique and memorable dining experience whilst indulging yourself in the real taste of fine Indian cuisine. Open 7 days a week – Monday to Saturday, noon till 11.30pm and Sunday noon till 11pm. Dinner reservations are strongly recommended as Little India is really little! Perfectly located near The Royal Albert Hall, Harrods, Kensington Palace and the Natural History Museum.
Memories of India
32 Gloucester Road, SW7 4RB T: 020-7584 3476/020 7589 9315 www.littleindialondon.com Station: Gloucester Road
At Memories of India you can explore and experience the many varied tastes of India, with traditional and creative Indian dishes with a twist of ingenuity. Relax and let the team of award-winning chefs take your taste buds on an exotic trip and an unforgettable dining experience. The dishes here contain the finest ingredients in order to create the uncompromising flavours of India. We have a private room for parties and corporate functions. Mon-Sat noon-11.30pm; Sun noon-11pm. 18 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 020-7589 6450/020-7581 3734. www.memoriesofindia.com. Station: Gloucester Road.
Chai Wu Chai Wu is a contemporary Chinese restaurant, located on the Fifth Floor of the iconic department store, Harrods, in Knightsbridge. The restaurant design incorporates the five elements of Chinese philosophy: wood, metal, water, earth and fire, creating an elegant, opulent and welcoming dining setting. The tasty, exotic and colourful dishes reflect the finest of modern Chinese cuisine. The menu consists of small dishes such as black truffle sour soup and Chilean sea bass dumpling with gold leaf, as well as luxurious dishes including Beijing duck and Wagyu steak. Mon-Sat 12noon-9pm (last orders 8.30pm); Sun 12noon-6pm (last orders 5.15pm).
Cafe in the Courtyard St Martin-in-the-Fields Take a break from a busy day of sightseeing and enjoy some London sunshine at Café in the Courtyard. This seasonal outdoor café is located in the terrace just behind the church of St Martinin-the-Fields, Trafalgar Square. Open daily from 8am (11am on Saturdays and Sundays), Café in the Courtyard serves a delightful range of hot and cold drinks, pastries, snacks, baguettes, salads and soup throughout the day and in the evening there are scrumptious platters to share and a full wine list. Visit the website for special offers and opening hours. Café in the Courtyard, St Martin-in-the-Fields, WC2N 4JJ Station: Charing Cross Email: café@smitf.org www.smitf.org
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Fifth Floor, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-3819 8888. www.chaiwu.co.uk. Station: Knightsbridge
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BEST OF LONDON DINING Chi Kitchen Chi Kitchen is a contemporary Pan-Asian restaurant offering tasty, colourful and exotic dishes that are both MSG-free and halal. The open-plan restaurant lets guests watch the chefs at work, as they prepare Thai, Chinese, Malaysian, Japanese, Vietnamese and Korean cuisine. With such a wide selection of delicious dishes to choose from, Chi Kitchen promises to take diners on a unique culinary journey through South-East Asia. Mention ‘Where London’ when booking, and enjoy a complimentary glass of Champagne when you buy any main meal.
El Pirata
Ground Floor Debenhams (Henrietta Place entrance), 334-348 Oxford St, W1C 1JG. T: 020-3841 6888. www.chikitchen.co.uk. Station: Oxford Circus
For more than 20 years, El Pirata has hit the spot as London’s top restaurant for traditional Spanish tapas. Located in the heart of Mayfair, it’s the perfect place for a true taste of the Mediterranean in a chic yet friendly setting. Informal, inexpensive and, above all, authentic – the restaurant uses the finest Spanish produce, including jamón ibérico, to create its classic dishes. Celebrity fans include Brian May and Johnny Depp, and food critics are unanimous in their praise, describing it as a ‘Spanish gem’ (Zagat) with ‘surprisingly good prices’ (Harden’s), and ‘a favourite with Mayfair’s Spanish community and converts to the new Iberian cause’ (Square Meal ). Mon-Fri noon-11.30pm; Sat 6pm-11.30pm; closed Sun. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AQ. T: 020-7491 3810/7409 1315. www.elpirata.co.uk. Station: Hyde Park Corner/Green Park
Gaylord The quality and variety of the finest curry served at Gaylord on Mortimer Street (near the West End and Oxford Street) draws foodies of all nationalities from miles away. The traditional silver thali (below) transports you to unforgettable Indian experience with the right spices. The restaurant, which has been a British Curry Award finalist, has been serving authentic Indian food since 1966. Gaylord is a brand recognised by many as an institution – it is where many people were taken by their parents or grandparents for their first taste of the finest curry. Today, 70 years later, the iconic brand is now headed up by Sunil and Dhruv Lamba, and the company has gone from strength to strength.
Mango Tree
79-81 Mortimer St, W1W 7SJ. T: 020-7580 3615. www.gaylordlondon.com. Station: Oxford Circus
Mango Tree, situated in the heart of Belgravia, offers exquisite Thai cuisine and world-renowned hospitality in a modern and stylish setting. It uses only the finest ingredients sourced from the best suppliers. Enjoy genuine Thai dishes from the four main culinary regions: rich and mild dishes from the north; spicy food from the east; mild, Chinese-style dishes from the central region, and hot and spicy food from the south. Mention Where London when booking, and enjoy a complimentary glass of Champagne with any main meal at Mango Tree Belgravia. Monday-Wednesday 12noon-3pm, 6pm-11pm; Sat 12noon-2.30pm, 6pm-11.30pm; Sun 12noon-10.30pm. 46 Grosvenor Place, SW1X 7EQ. Station:Victoria/Hyde Park Corner. Also in Harrods: 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7823 1888. www.mangotree.org.uk. Twitter @MangoTreeLondon. Email: info@mangotree.org.uk
www.wheretraveler.com 71
NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE This image: Holborn Dining Room’s Gin Bar Below: a cocktail at The Distillery
Clockwise from left: Nightjar; The Jazz Café; Ronnie Scott’s; Savoy
Talking all that jazz With established 50-year-old venues and many more young, pioneering ones, London is a big player on the world jazz scene. It might be a dark, brick-walled basement club, reminiscent of New Orleans jazz clubs, or perhaps it’s a well-oiled machine with superb acoustics and red leather seats with table service. Whatever your preference, though, jazz fans are well catered for. Step back in time to London’s most famous jazz venue Ronnie Scott’s (p. 53 ), which has been going strong since 1959. It’s named after the late saxophonist Ronnie Scott, who, inspired by New York clubs of the 1950s, opened a basement venue in Soho where local musicians could jam. The club has played host to many faces, including Miles Davis, Charlie Parker and Cleo Laine, and today’s big names ensure the venue is filled nightly. The less formal Upstairs@Ronnie’s bar and club is open until 3am, with events ranging from jive nights to poetry slams and samba. Highlight: Saluting Sgt Pepper with Django Bates and the Frankfurt Radio Big Band (4-9 Sep). At the Savoy hotel, the Thursday and Friday night Savoy Sessions offer a touch of real 72 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017
class – they’re held in the magnificent Thames Foyer, which is flooded with natural light from the glass-domed atrium (above). Resident singer Nicola Emmanuel comes from an impressive jazz dynasty – her parents are in the South African Hall of Fame – and here she’s accompanied by piano and double bass.
Pull up a seat and enjoy cocktails, dessert or even dinner as she croons some jazz classics (Strand, WC2R 0EU). Get your dancing shoes on for Nightjar (p. 74), for an old-school speakeasy style. Soak in the 1920s ambience and sit down at a tiny candlelit table, where your orders are taken for drinks and food – there’s no queuing up at a crowded bar here. Jazz, blues or swing bands play nightly, and weekends see late sets after midnight. You should book a table in advance. Highlight: Benoit Viellefon Quintet (9 Sep). Rather than a sultry, slinky feel, Camden Town favourite The Jazz Café (5 Parkway, NW1 7PG) has more of a nightclub feel, especially at its DJ club nights Night Thing (Fri) and Soul City (Sat). Amy Winehouse played here – Camden was her stomping ground – as did Adele and Bobby Womack, and since 2016 a revamp and technical upgrade has given the venue a fresh look. Come here to see rising stars, but enjoy the heavy emphasis on funk, soul and R‘n’B. You can dance in the downstairs standing area, or sit in the restaurant for a great view of the stage. Highlight: Tony Allen “The Source” Album Launch (22 Sep).
THE JAZZ CAFÉ © JAKE DAVIS; NIGHTJAR © REBECCA LITTLE; RONNIE SCOTT’S COURTESY OF RONNIE SCOTT’S; SAVOY © STEVE LANCEFIELD
Emma Levine puts on her dancing shoes and heads to some of the best jazz clubs in the capital
FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM
Most bars are open 11am-11pm, most nightclubs are open 10pm-3am. The UK’s legal drinking age is 18. ID may be required. T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, Railway and Docklands Light Railway. References near end of listings (A1 etc.) refer to coordinates on map on p. 80-81
The Guinea
68 & Boston
Site of an inn since 1423, this was where wealthy Mayfair’s stable hands and servants used to drink. www.theguinea.co.uk. 30 Bruton Place, W1J 6NL. T: 020-7409 1728. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Sophisticated Soho venue with separate cocktail and wine bars. The ground-floor bar boasts wine from lesser-known regions, including Uruguay, and all bottles are just £20. Nightly food menu. www.68andboston.com. 5 Greek St, W1D 4DD. T: 020-7287 3713. D7. Station: Leicester Square.
The Magpie & Stump This pub, opposite the Old Bailey, dates back to the 1500s, and once doubled up as a public viewing spot for hangings at Newgate Prison. www.magpieandstump.com. 18 Old Bailey, EC4M 7EP. T: 020-7248 5085. B8. Station: St Paul’s.
The Spaniards Inn Follow in the footsteps of past regulars, including highwayman Dick Turpin and novelist Charles Dickens, at the historic pub, which is one of the oldest in London. www.thespaniardshampstead. co.uk. Spaniards Rd, NW3 7JJ. T: 020-8731 8406. Off map. Station: Hampstead.
Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese This landmark pub has wood-panelled walls and vaults that are thought to date back to a 13th-century Carmelite monastery which once stood here. 145 Fleet St, EC4A 2BU. T: 020-7353 6170. D9. Station: Blackfriars.
BARS & CLUBS
TRADITIONAL PUBS The Blackfriar
The Bar at Bellamy’s Classic cocktails and wines are served in a classic setting, which is decorated with vintage ski posters. www.bellamysrestaurant.co.uk. 18/18a Bruton Place, W1J 6LY. T: 020-7491 2727. E6. Station: Oxford Circus.
Booking Office Bar The ground floor of the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel has a 29m-long bar surrounded by cavernous arched ceilings. Tasty bar snacks. www.booking officebar.com. Euston Rd, NW1 2AR. T: 020-7841 3566. C7. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.
Burlock Rum is definitely the spirit of choice, in this relaxed bar that specialises in many types of cocktails with the Caribbean drink plus unusual ingredients. www.burlocklondon.co.uk. 31 Duke St, W1U 1LG. T: 020-7935 3303. D6. Station: Bond Street.
The Back Room
BYOC
Next to Hard Rock, the bar boasts vintage and iconic music items, including a door from the Apple Studios signed by the Beatles. Enjoy cocktails, pizzas and a great vibe. www.hardrock.com. 148b Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 020-7514 1700. E6. Station: Green Park.
At this stylish ‘Bring Your Own Cocktail’ venue with a 1920s casino theme, pay £30, bring a spirit of your choice and the mixologist will create your drink. Booking is advisable. www.byoc.co.uk. 9-11 Basement, Camden High St, NW1 7JE. T: 020-3441 2424. Off map. Station: Mornington Crescent.
This Grade II-listed Art Nouveau pub, which is more than a century old, offers cask ales. www.nicholsons pubs.co.uk. 174 Queen Victoria St, EC4V 4EG. T: 020-7236 5474. E9. Station: Blackfriars.
Top Pick
Cittie of Yorke The dark nooks and crannies, rafted roof and chimney-less fire in this Grade II-listed building take you back to 1430. 22 High Holborn, WC1 6BN. T: 020-7242 7670. D9. Station: Chancery Lane.
The Dog and Duck A real-ale pub with regularly changing cask beers, as well as pub food and bar snacks. www.nicholsons pubs.co.uk. 18 Bateman St, W1D 3AJ. T: 020-7494 0697. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
The Flask
DUKES BAR COURTESY OF DUKES HOTEL
This 17th-century pub boasts Byron and Shelley as past patrons and is allegedly haunted. www.the flaskhighgate.com. 77 Highgate West Hill, N6 6BU. T: 020-8348 7346. Off map. Station: Highgate.
The French House No music, TV or mobile phones make this cosy Soho pub a real gem. www.frenchhousesoho.com. 49 Dean St, W1D 5BG. T: 020-7437 2477. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Rd.
The George Inn This historic pub was established during the medieval period and still retains its original coaching houses. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ george-inn. 75-77 Borough High St, SE1 1NH. T: 020-7407 2056. E10. Station: London Bridge.
Get shaken, not stirred It’s like a glamorous movie set at Dukes Bar – the ultimate in understated elegance, with forest-green armchairs and portrait-lined walls. This was a watering hole of Bond author Ian Fleming, and reputedly where he coined the phrase ‘shaken, not stirred’. Lemons from the Amalfi coast sit on the bar, casting a citrus aroma. It’s the place for martini aficionados, with Alessandro Palazzi running the show. A wooden trolley, dating from 1908, is wheeled to your table with chilled martini glasses and an array of organic spirits, and your cocktail is mixed before you. Fancy mixologists may wish to impress, but this is the place for a timeless classic. Dukes Hotel, 35 St James’s Place, SW1A 1NY. T: 020-7491 4840. www.dukeshotel.com. E7. Station: Green Park www.wheretraveler.com 73
NIGHTLIFE One New Change Champagne Bar
Flying high
Located near St Paul’s Cathedral, this stunning bar boasts a huge selection of bubbly, plus Champagne cocktails and premium beers (various branches around London). www.searcyschampagnebars. co.uk. 1/F One New Change, EC4M 9AF. T: 0207871 1213. D10. Station: St Paul’s.
Tucked away down a cobbled mews in Mayfair, there’s a smart refurbishment at the bar at Hush restaurant. Boasting a new menu that’s designed to look like a book of boarding passes, Aviator at Hush takes you on a global trip with its travel-themed cocktails. Try a US-inspired ‘Down the Bayou’ (rye, chocolate liqueur, orange curacao), or fly south to Mexico for a Taco Tuesday (tequila, chilli, grapefruit juice). Presentation rules at this award-winning bar, where you might drink out of a glass skull, a lightbulb or even a tiny bathtub. 8 Lancashire Court, off Brook St, W1S 1EY. T: 0207659 1500. www.hush.co.uk. E6. Station: Bond Street
Timeless Bellini and cocktail destination with Art Deco oak panelling and leather-topped bar stools. www.cartizzebar.com. 4 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388. E6. Station: Bond Street.
C.O.L.D Bar (The City of London Distillery) A retro-styled cocktail bar that overlooks the copper stills of the distillery. Try tastings, classes and tours, including an Evolution of Gin tour. www.cityof londondistillery.com. 22-24 Bride Lane, EC4Y 8DT. T: 020-7936 3446. D9. Station: Blackfriars.
Dirty Martini With deluxe banquettes and a quirky layout, this cocktail bar is a hit for its extensive list of martinis. Mon-Sat 4pm-late. Multiple branches. www.dirty martini.uk.com. 10c Hanover Square, W1S 1JH. T: 020-7632 2087. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
The Draft House Fabulous draft beers from around the world, served in one-third pint glasses (and larger), perfect for discovering your favourite. www.drafthouse.co.uk. 206-208 Tower Bridge Rd, SE1 2UP. T: 020-7378 9995. E11. Station: London Bridge/Tower Hill.
Drakes Tabanco A Spanish-style bar serving rare sherries aged in ancient oak barrels. There are also craft beers, a range of natural wines and tapas. www.drakes tabanco.com. 3 Windmill St, W1T 2HY. T: 020-7637 9388. D7. Station: Goodge Street.
Freedom This gay-friendly venue attracts a trendy crowd to its stylish cocktail bar and nightclub. www.freedom barsoho.com. 60-66 Wardour St, W1F 0TA. T: 0207734 0071. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Gong Located in The Shard, Gong is the highest Champagne bar in London and the ideal place for sunset cocktails and late-night drinks. www.shangri-la.com. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8000. F10. Station: London Bridge. 74 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017
This stylish upstairs bar tucked away in Chinatown, in the style of an old Shangai bar, serves innovative Chinese-inspired cocktails. Booking recommended. www.opiumchinatown.com. 15 Gerrard St, W1D 6JE. T: 020-7734 7276. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
Oriole Spacious cocktail bar hidden beneath Smithfield Market, with live jazz and blues most nights. Beautiful interiors, and drinks inspired by the Old World, New World and Orient. www.oriolebar.com. Smithfield Markets, East Poultry Avenue, EC1A 9LH. T: 020-3457 8099. D9. Station: Farringdon.
Primo Bar Sumptuous, modern cocktail bar with live music and afternoon tea, plus a VIP area with river views. Try the Asian-inspired cocktails. www.primobar. co.uk. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7282. F8. Station: Waterloo.
Reverend J W Simpson Good Godfreys Old-style glamour and classic cocktails are served with a hint of history at this suave establishment. Try the Astor Hip Flask cocktail. www.waldorf hilton.co.uk. The Waldorf Hilton, Aldwych, WC2B 4DD. T: 020-7836 2400. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Gordon’s Wine Bar London’s oldest wine bar has been uncorking bottles from around the world since 1890 in its stone-walled basement. Well-priced pub food, including cheese plates. It’s usually crowded. www.gordonswinebar.com. 47 Villiers St, WC2N 6NE. T: 020-7930 1408. E8. Station: Embankment/Charing Cross.
Hixter Bankside Restaurateur Mark Hix’s bar shows his trademark interest in modern art – see an installation by Helen Chadwick that replicates a London Tube carriage. www.hixrestaurants.co.uk. 16 Great Guildford St, SE1 0HS. T: 020-7921 9508. E9. Station: Southwark.
The Met Bar This famous bar in the Metropolitan Hotel has an extensive wine list, vintage Champagne by the glass and cocktails, plus a British food menu. www.metbar.co.uk. 19 Old Park Lane, W1K 1LB. T: 020-7447 1000. Off map. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
This cocktail bar is a real slice of ‘shabby chic’ – and is the genuine ex-abode of the good Reverend, proved by the blue plaque outside. Scruffy sofas and a laid-back vibe are its hallmark. www.revjwsimpson.com. 32 Goodge St, W1T 2QJ. T: 020-3174 1155. E7. Station: Goodge Street.
Scarfes Bar Part of the luxury hotel Rosewood London, this bar is named after Gerald Scarfe, the cartoonist famous for his satirical illustrations (p. 14). Enjoy Indian-inspired snacks. www.scarfesbar.com. 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8611. D8. Station: Holborn.
Six Storeys Bohemian, decadent bar in a Soho townhouse, split over six levels, where creative cocktails are its speciality. www.sixstoreys.com. 11 Soho Square, W1D 3QE. T: 020-3504 7381. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Social Wine & Tapas
John Keats wrote his poem Ode to a Nightingale in The Spaniards Inn in Hampstead
Acclaimed restaurateur Jason Atherton’s stylish wine bar and restaurant has counter and tableserved tapas. There is also a magnificent wine shop upstairs. www.jasonatherton.co.uk. 39 James St, W1U 1DL. T: 020-7993 3257. D6. Station: Bond Street.
St Pancras Champagne Bar
Old-school glamour and Prohibition-era cocktails are the signature of this basement hangout. Live music from the jazz golden age adds a touch of style (p. 72). www.barnightjar.com. 129 City Rd, EC1V 1JB. T: 020-7253 4101. C10. Station: Old Street.
Europe’s longest Champagne bar takes pride of place in the graceful station where the Paris Eurostar arrives. There are leather banquettes and call buttons to summon a waiter to refill your glasses. www.searcyschampagnebars.co.uk. St Pancras International, Upper Concourse, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.
Old Bengal Bar
Trader Vic’s
Nightjar
Converted from an East India Co warehouse, this atmospheric venue has a dark interior, original brick walls, wooden beams and leather banquettes. www.oldbengalbar.com. 16 New St, EC2M 4TR. T: 020-3503 0780. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.
This Tiki-style bar and restaurant is more than 50 years old. The menu has rum-laced cocktails − try the Mai Tai cocktail in this exotic setting. www.tradervicslondon.com. London Hilton on Park Lane, 22 Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208 4113. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
FORBIDDEN CITY COCKTAIL COURTESY OF AVIATOR AT HUSH
Cartizze Bar
Opium Cocktail Bar
NIGHTLIFE Trader’s Wine Bar
The 100 Club
606 Club
Sample wines from around the globe in this intimate venue, along with boards of cured meats and cheeses. www.traderswine.co.uk. Ivory House, Central Basin, St Katharine Docks, E1W 1AT. T: 020-7481 3796. Off map. Station: Tower Hill.
Famous basement music venue with rock and blues bands, plus DJ and club nights. www.the100 club.co.uk. 100 Oxford St, W1D 1LL. T: 020-7636 0933. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
A relaxed members’ jazz cellar and restaurant, which has been run by musician Steve Rubie for more than 30 years, The venue specialises in British-based artists, playing blues, r’n’b and soul. www.606club. co.uk. 90 Lots Rd, SW10 0QD. T: 020-7352 5953. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.
Waxy O’Connor’s Long-standing, huge Irish bar, comprising four bars over six levels. It shows Ireland’s major sporting events on big screens. www.waxy oconnors.co.uk. 14-16 Rupert St, W1D 6DD. T: 020-7287 0255. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
The Zetter Townhouse Tony Conigliaro, known for his groundbreaking cocktails, brings his mixology magic to this intimate cocktail lounge. www.thezettertownhouse.com. 49-50 St John’s Square, EC1V 4JJ. T: 020-7324 4545. Off map. Station: Farringdon.
Ronnie Scott’s World-famous jazz venue with a bar and restaurant. The weekly Sunday Jazz lunch has no minimum age, which makes it good for families. Live acts every night (p. 72), plus Sat and Sun lunchtimes. More intimate gigs upstairs every Wed. Reservations highly recommended. www.ronniescotts.co.uk. 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Stringfellows Gentleman’s Club Over many years, celebrities and the public have enjoyed a memorable night of entertainment supplied by more than 80 ‘Angels’ dancing at their tables. Free entry when dining. www.string fellows.com. 16-19 Upper St Martin’s Lane, WC2H 9EF. T: 020-7240 5534. E8. Station: Leicester Square.
CASINOS The Casino at the Empire There is a dedicated poker room and the latest table and electronic games at this spectacular venue, housing a contemporary Asian restaurant and several bars. www.thecasinolsq.com. 5-6 Leicester Square, WC2H 7NA. T: 020-3733 1315. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
Grosvenor Gloucester Casino A vibrant and friendly casino offering a wide choice of gaming facilities, plus a late-night bar and relaxed restaurant. Open 24 hours. www.grosvenor casinos.com. 4-18 Harrington Gardens, SW7 4LJ. T: 020-7373 7134. G4. Station: Gloucester Road.
The Sportsman Casino This club combines the best in traditional and electronic gaming, informal dining, a poker lounge, sports bar and a charming restaurant. www.the sportsmancasino.com. Old Quebec St, W1H 7AF. T: 020-3642 8531. D6. Station: Marble Arch.
LIVE ENTERTAINMENT The Blues Kitchen This busy venue stages nightly blues, soul and jazz, plus a DJ at weekends. Dozens of varieties of bourbon and rye, plus Cajun comfort food. www.the blueskitchen.com. 111 Camden High St, NW1 7JN. T: 020-7387 5277. Off map. Station: Camden Town.
Bunga Bunga Part restaurant, part bar with live entertainment, this Covent Garden venue has all the makings of a theatrical night out, with live cabaret acts. www.bungabunga-london.com. 167 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PG. T: 020-7590 3602. D8. Station: Holborn.
The Comedy Store One of the country’s best venues for stand-up and improvised comedy, where many of Britain’s comedians made their mark. Regular stand-up and late-night shows. www.thecomedy store. co.uk. 1a Oxendon St, SW1Y 4EE. T: 0844-871 7699. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
London Cabaret Club Cabaret gets a modern twist at this unique club within the Bloomsbury Ballroom. ‘Best of British Pop’ is crammed with chart-toppers from the 1960s to the present day, fusing dance, acrobatics and theatre on stage. Dinner and VIP tickets available. www.thelondoncabaretclub.com. Victoria House, Bloomsbury Square, WC1B 4DA. T: 020-7242 0002. D8. Station: Holborn. www.wheretraveler.com 75
WELLBEING | THE GUIDE Clockwise from left: shower room, treatment room, reception area – all Spa InterContinental
Pamper yourself
Business meets pleasure One of the best ways to de-stress when you land in a new city is by having a massage. But if you’ve a meeting planned for the next day (or in the next few hours), it can be hard to relax and restart. So that’s why you need to visit Spa InterContinental, located in the InterContinental London Park Lane. This plush urban retreat is in one of London’s most luxurious areas: Mayfair. Last year, the spa won the Best Urban Escape Spa at the World Luxury Spa Awards. This hideaway, on the second floor of the hotel, shuts out the busy city streets; there is not a smattering of the outside world – no natural light at all. Instead, there are low-lit lamps and plush sofas to sink into while you wait. The menu includes meeting-ready treatments. Under the male grooming options, you can choose from the pre-business pit stop with a facial, eye treatment, manicure and brow tidy; the post-business pit-stop has a deep tissue massage, with a focus on the neck and shoulders, followed by 20 minutes on the dry floatation bed (both £140). Both treatments can be adapted for women, too. 76 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017
AVEDA INSTITUTE Make a great first impression and book The Perfect Back. It includes an exfoliation, an algotherapy mask (removed using hot towels) and a massage to relieve tension (40 min; £65; p. 77).
AWAY SPA
One of the unique facilities in the spa is the dry floatation bed. As you lay down on the surface, which feels similar to a waterbed, it is then turned on and you are slowly lowered into the tank. The blanket-like sides are placed onto you to keep you cocooned. The feeling of weightlessness and relaxing vibrations send you to sleep. If you’re suffering from tiredness or jet lag, this is a must: 20 minutes in the tank is the equivalent of three hours’ sleep (£30). Bliss! One Hamilton Place, Park Lane, W1J 7QY. T: 0207318 8691. www.spaintercontinentallondon.com
W London in Leicester Square is ideal for those on the go. The Entrepreneur package is designed for women who need a pamper power hour. Enjoy an express mini or pedi, lower leg and foot massage, and a blow dry from hair stylist to the stars Adam Bennett. You can indulge in complimentary drinks, too. www.awayspalondon.com
NEIL CORNELIUS If you’re having a bad hair day and want to sort it out straight away, this salon is the place to go. It’s open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year, and offers cuts, blow dries and colour treatments. Appointments must be booked in advance. (Haircuts from £75). www.neilcornelius.com
SPA IMAGES COURTESY OF SPA INTERCONTINENTAL PARK LANE; BLOW DRY IMAGE © ISTOCK
Kohinoor Sahota rounds up the best business-inspired treatments that will get you ready for that important meeting
FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Most spas are open seven days a week, but check for opening hours. References at the end of listings (A1 etc.) refer to coordinates on map p. 80-81
Aveda Institute This three-storey salon offers cuts, colour, blow dries and botanical treatments using Aveda’s plant-based products. The Express Beauty Bar has treatments lasting 15 and 30 minutes (p. 76). www.avedainstitute.co.uk. 174 High Holborn, WC1V 7AA. T: 020-7759 7355. D8. Station: Holborn.
Bamford Haybarn Spa Loved by celebrities, treatments have a holistic approach to wellbeing, and use botanical products. There is also a rooftop pool and secret garden. www.the-berkeley.co.uk. The Berkeley hotel, Wilton Place, SW1X 7RL. T: 020-7201 1699. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.
Blue Harbour Health Club & Spa This exclusive members-only spa offers day passes for £25. Swim in the 17m pool, use the fitness equipment or visit the Figaro Hair Salon. There are treatment rooms for disabled visitors. www.blueharbourspa.co.uk. Chelsea Harbour Drive, SW10 0XG. T: 020-7300 5011. Off map. Station: Imperial Wharf.
Elemis Day Spa This spa specialises in facials that tackle ageing, pigmentation and blemishes. In The Penthouse, a private suite, you can share the experience with your guest while sipping Champagne. The Speed Spa offers treatments in 30 minutes. www.elemis. com/dayspa. 2 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EX. T: 020-7499 4995. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Jurlique Founded by Dr Jürgen Klein, a biochemist, and his wife Ulrike, a botanist, this spa uses their natural skincare range. Treatments include an anti-stress facial, which eases tension in your face, neck and shoulders. www.jurlique.co.uk. 489 Oxford St, W1C 2AU. T: 0800-040 7685. D8. Station: Bond Street.
Mandara Spa This spa has an Asian touch: the décor includes a bamboo forest, Mondrian paintings and Japanese shoji screens. Try the warm bamboo massage, where bamboo stalks are used on your body. www.mandara spa.com. Park Plaza, 200 Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7300. F8. Station: Waterloo.
Mandarin Oriental A luxury spa inspired by Chinese massage methods. Facilities include a 17m pool and gym. Book a session with trainer Ruben Tabares – sessions can be held in Hyde Park. www.mandarin oriental.com. 66 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LA. T: 020-7235 2000. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.
One Aldwych This spa offers a range of treatments including massages, manicures and waxing. Brands used are Natura Bissé and Oskia. The health club is excellent, while the pool is chlorine-free and has underwater music. www.onealdwych.com. One Aldwych, WC2B 4BZ. T: 020-7300 0600. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
The Refinery This men-only spa has treatments ranging from a traditional shave to sports massage. If you want to master a wet shave, you can book a Principles of Shaving lesson. Also available at Harrods. www.the-refinery.com. 60 Brook St, W1K 5DU. T: 020-7409 2001. E6. Station: Bond Street.
by qualified female masseuse.
Total relaxation, revitalising massage.
Rocco Forte at Brown’s Hotel An oasis of calm in the West End that boasts a 24-hour gym and luxury treatments including a gold age-defying facial and carat diamond face and body rituals. There are also treatments for two. www.brownshotel.com. Albemarle St, W1S 4BP. T: 020-7518 4009. E7. Station: Green Park.
Please call to book an appointment at your hotel, home or our studio on:
The Spa at Dolphin Square Moroccan-inspired luxury. Signature massages include the Moroccan Majorelle and Arabian Ceremony. Treatments can be combined with a hammam. www.dolphinsquare.co.uk/spa. Chichester St, SW1V 3LX. T: 020-7798 6767. Off map. Station: Pimlico.
Spa Illuminata
07879 697478
This spa’s menu includes facials, massages and options for men. Anti-ageing treatments include anti-wrinkle injections and skin peels. www.spailluminata.com. 63 South Audley St, W1K 2QS. T: 020-7499 7777. E6. Station: Marble Arch.
Urban Retreat at Harrods This is one of the few places in London that offers paraffin wax baths. Special services include weaves, extensions, wig creation and cutting. There’s a hammam, too. www.urbanretreat.co.uk. Fifth floor, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7893 8333. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.
Ushvani
Late appointments available
Plush spa with a philosophy that is based on ancient Asian culture and takes a holistic approach to pampering. Treatments include a Malay massage and Balinese massage, which incorporate herbs and spices. www.ushvani.com. 1 Cadogan Gardens, SW3 2RJ. T: 020-7730 2888. G5. Station: Sloane Square.
SALONS Gentlemen’s Tonic This is a stylish men-only grooming establishment with a barbershop, body and hair treatments and a full range of products. www.gentlemenstonic.com. 31a Bruton Place, W1J 6NN. T: 020-7297 4343. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Geo F Trumper A traditional barbershop in Mayfair, which offers wet shaves, manicures and hair cuts for an elegant result. www.trumpers.com. 9 Curzon St, W1J 5HQ. T: 020-7499 1850. E6. Station: Green Park.
Hershesons Blow Dry Bar At this trendy hairdresser to the stars, you can ask for your favourite fashion-forward look from a menu and a stylist will create it in 30 minutes. www.hershesons.com. Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 020-7493 1600. E6. Station: Bond Street.
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Jo Hansford This hair-colour salon, which is home to top stylists, is renowned for its colour correction work. The salon also has an in-house chef. www.jo hansford.com. 48 South Audley St, W1K 2QB. T: 020-7495 7774. E6. Station: Marble Arch.
Windle & Moodie An award-winning hair salon, which specialises in upfront catwalk looks. The 20-minute Speed Styling service includes updos. www.windleand moodie.com. 41-45 Shorts Gardens, WC2H 9AP. T: 020-7497 2393. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
where
RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE
www.wheretraveler.com 77
ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE TICKET INFORMATION Oyster cards & Travelcards
Concierges in the capital use Where London for information, and three concierges share their top tips
An Oyster card is a pre-paid travel smart card. It’s a cheap way to pay for single journeys by bus, Tube, tram, DLR, London Overground and most National Rail train services in London. You can buy a Visitor Oyster card before you leave home for a £3 fee and pre-load it with credit at www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk. The system has nine zones. Zone 1 is in central London. Visitors can buy Oyster cards and Day Travelcards from stations, Visitor Centres and any Oyster Ticket Shop. UK visitors can also pay for their travel with a UK-issued contactless payment card. See www.tfl.gov.uk/visitinglondon. An Oyster card also gives you a 25 per cent discount on London’s cable car, the Emirates Air Line, and a 10 per cent discount on single journeys on most MBNA Thames Clippers river buses. For more info, visit www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk.
Robert Naraine Head concierge at London Bridge Hotel
Christophe Caron Head concierge at The Beaumont
Didzis Neimanis Head concierge at Grange St Paul’s Hotel
What’s the strangest request you’ve had? Pre-internet, an American family asked me to find the real Thomas the Tank Engine. After numerous phone calls, I found it: a working blue train in the Nene Valley Railway in Cambridgeshire, that inspired the books’ author. After that, there were no strange requests, just ones you’ve never been asked before!
What’s the strangest request you’ve had? I saved a wedding day by taking the rings to my guests, who’d left them at the hotel. I had to jump on my motorbike and rush through London to arrive on time.
What’s the strangest request you’ve had? One Sunday night, a guest asked me to bulk buy water beads – the gel balls florists use – for the following morning. I found them at Covent Garden Flower Market.
Share a quintessential English experience. As a cricket fan, I would recommend taking a tour and watching a game at the home of cricket, Lord’s Cricket Ground.
Share a quintessential English experience. Enjoy a 99 (a soft vanilla ice cream cone with a chocolate flake in it), sitting on a deckchair in St James’s Park.
Any familyfriendly ideas? I am a big fan of guided tours and they are a great fun. Whether the tour is a private one or part of a group, it’s always a good idea. The Ghosts of the Old City walking tour and London Landmarks bicycle tour are my favourites.
London Buses
Any family-friendly ideas? A day at Leeds Castle, just an hour away from central London. It has lots to do for all ages: get lost in the maze, punt on the lake and see birds in the aviary.
Any familyfriendly ideas? Make sure you visit Greenwich in southeast London – it’s home to the Cutty Sark, the National Maritime Museum and the Royal Observatory in the middle of Greenwich Park.
Share a quintessential English experience. Shakespeare’s Globe gives visitors an insight into English entertainment 400 years ago.
Docklands Light Railway
Inset: National Maritime Museum in Greenwich Above: Cricket bat and balls Left: Leeds Castle
78 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017
GETTING AROUND For 24-hour travel information, visit the Transport for London (TfL) website. www.tfl.gov.uk/ visitinglondon or call T: 0343-222 1234.
London Underground (The Tube) www.tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground map (opposite). Services run Mon-Sat 5am-12.30am and Sun 7.30am-11.30pm on most routes. The night Tube service runs on Fri-Sat on the Victoria, Jubilee, Central, Northern (via Embankment) and Piccadilly line. Fares vary; a Zone 1 adult fare costs £4.80 (£2.30 with an Oyster card).
London buses run 5am-12.30am. Night buses (midnight-4.30am) operate on main routes (several services are 24-hour). You can’t pay for a bus fare with cash, so use a Visitor Oyster card, Oyster card, Travelcard or a UK-issued contactless payment card. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/ buses. A single fare is £1.50 with an Oyster card or a UK-issued contactless payment card.
London Overground www.tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground map (opposite). Trains run Mon-Sat 5am-midnight; Sun 7am-11.30pm on most routes.
Trains run approximately every three-anda-half minutes to 10 minutes. Mon-Sat 5.30am12.30am; Sun 7am-11pm. T: 020-7363 9700.
Trains Paddington serves the West Country, Wales and the South Midlands. Liverpool Street and Fenchurch Street serve East Anglia and Essex. Euston King’s Cross St Pancras Marylebone and St Pancras King’s Cross International (connects to St Pancras) serve north and central Britain, Charing Cross and southeast England. London Bridge Waterloo Victoria serve southern England. and For times and tickets, visit www.nationalrail. co.uk or call T: 0845-748 4950. St Pancras International. Eurostar uses Visit www.eurostar.com for more information, times and ticket prices. Call T: 0344-822 4777 (or if you’re outside the UK, call T: 01233-617 575).
ROBERT NARAINE COURTESY OF LONDON BRIDGE HOTEL; CHRISTOPHE CARON COURTESY OF THE BEAUMONT; DIDZIS NEIMANIS COURTESY OF GRANGE ST PAUL’S HOTEL; NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM, CRICKET BALLS AND LEEDS CASTLE © ISTOCK
AT YOUR SERVICE
ESSENTIALS
Accessible London
Emirates Air Line cable car
Get information for deaf and disabled travellers, including step-free journeys on the Tube, bus and river service at www.visitlondon.com/ access and www.openbritain.net.
London’s only cable car runs across the River Thames between Greenwich Peninsula (The O2) and the Royal Docks (ExCeL London). You can board from either the North Greenwich or Royal Victoria sides of the river (return flights are available). You can buy a combined ticket with MBNA Thames Clippers and London Transport Museum. www.tfl.gov.uk/emiratesairline.
Taxis You can hail a black cab (taxi) in the street. Fares increase after 8pm. You cannot hail private-hire or minicabs, which you must book. We strongly advise against you using any vehicle that approaches you in the street, except for licensed black cabs. www.tfl.gov.uk.
Car hire Make sure your driving licence is valid for the UK and see ‘Congestion Charge’ below. 4x4 Vehicle Hire: T: 01245-410535. www.4x4vehiclehire.co.uk. Hertz: T: 0870-844 8844. www.hertz.co.uk. Kendall Cars Ltd: T: 020-8542 0403. www.kendallcars.com. Enterprise Rent-A-Car: T: 0800-800 227. www.enterprise.co.uk.
UNDERGROUND SIGN © ISTOCK; MAP COURTESY OF TFL
Congestion Charge There is a congestion charge to drive into central London, Mon-Fri 7am-6pm. Payable in advance or on the day of travel (£11.50), or the day after (£14). UK: T: 034-3222 2222. International: T: +44 20-7649 9122. www.cclondon.com.
River services www.tfl.gov.uk/river MBNA Thames Clippers: T: 020-7001 2200. www.thamesclippers.com. Catamarans leave major piers every 20 mins. Services run between Waterloo Pier and The O2 (North Greenwich Pier) and on to Royal Arsenal Woolwich Pier, stopping at 20 main piers. Discounts on single journeys on all MBNA Thames Clippers river buses. The River Roamer day pass gives unlimited hop-on, hop-off travel from £17.35.
On foot It’s often quicker to get around London by walking. Look out for blue and yellow Legible London street maps. www.tfl.gov.uk/ legiblelondon.
Santander Cycles There are 11,500 bikes for hire from 750 docking stations throughout central London. From £2 for 30 minutes; the first 30 minutes are free. There’s no need to book, but you need a debit or credit card to hire a bike. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/ santandercycles or call T: 0343-222 6666.
Coaches London’s main coach services use Victoria Coach Station, a central hub which offers travel to destinations around the UK and some parts of Europe. SW1W 9TP. T: 0843-222 1234. www.tfl.gov.uk/coaches Victoria. Map D4.
DELIVERY Mail Boxes Etc. Worldwide parcel delivery, courier and postal services. There are 1,600 stores worldwide and more than 150 stores in the UK and Ireland. Mail Boxes are also trained certified packers. T: 01608-649230. www.mbe.co.uk/london.
24-hour Tube lines Run Fridays & Saturdays on the following lines. More are due to open soon. • Jubilee Line: Across the entire line. • Victoria Line: Across the entire line. • Northern Line: Between Morden and Camden Town and between Camden Town to High Barnet/Edgware. • Piccadilly Line: Between Cockfosters and Heathrow Terminal 5. • Central Line: Between White City and Leytonstone; between Ealing Broadway and White City; and between Leytonstone and Loughton/Hainault. www.wheretraveler.com 79
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WHERE NOW | KILLIAN DONNELLY
My Perfect Day
ACTOR Killian is from County Meath in Ireland. He has starred in The Commitments, Kinky Boots and Memphis, for which he was nominated for an Olivier Award. He now plays Jean Valjean in Les Misérables. He lives in Aldgate. Where would you have breakfast?
What places hold a special memory?
Where do you like to have a drink?
At Bar Bruno on Wardour Street – it’s next to the Queen’s Theatre. It’s the sort of place for an ‘I don’t care, I want the full English breakfast’ and they will put everything in it, almost a whole calf. When you want to be healthy, I go to Balans and get eggs.
I’ve been in London around nine years. The bridges are special – I love walking over them.
The place I go for a Guinness – I’m Irish! – is Waxy’s Little Sister on Wardour Street. You go in, and nine times out of 10 the person behind the bar is Irish. My dream drinking partner would be Frank Sinatra. We’d have whiskey at the end of a dirty bar. I’d want to hear his stories.
Do you have a favourite park?
When I have friends to stay, I love walking up The Mall to Buckingham Palace.
Green Park – it contains Buckingham Place, and on a gorgeous day you can sit in a deckchair and read a book. I will happily read for a couple of hours – it feels like you have done something with your day.
Which museums and galleries do you like?
How do you travel?
The National Gallery. When my friend visits, we get a coffee and wander around the gallery. I don’t know much about art, but the more I go, the more I find out what type of art I do like.
I’ve started hiring Santander bikes – it’s so easy. I love riding down the north bank of the Thames – cycling is so much fun. The weight has been falling off me! There are routes and architecture I wouldn’t have seen otherwise. It’s also good for your voice as you learn to regulate your breathing.
What are your favourite buildings?
Where do you prefer to go shopping? I’m bad with shopping – if you see me, you’ll know that I’m not a fashion guru. If I need something I’ll go to the shops. The only shop I can go to, get lost and walk around is the Apple Store. There’s something about the gadgets. I love the Covent Garden branch, with its mix of old stone walls and shiny glass, and where you can hear the street theatre outside.
Would you do anything extravagant? I am not really an extravagant person. I love taking the boat that travels down the river to The O2. I used to live in south London and if there was a Tube strike, it was such a great feeling to use an Oyster card to travel to work on a boat.
Where do you go for tea? How about a date? I love Waterloo Bridge; you always see a red bus going over it, and you can gaze at London’s stunning architecture. That’s my ‘first date’ thing. 82 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017
I went to the Mad Hatters afternoon tea at the Sanderson Hotel – it was brilliant but that’s the only time I’ve had afternoon tea. I prefer to have a coffee while sitting on a wall, really.
Where would you go for dinner? I went to Barrafina with the singer Nick Jonas; I did Les Misérables with him. We see each other once or twice a year.
What is your ideal entertainment? Watching Jurassic Park (my favourite film) with a live orchestra, and with John Williams (my favourite composer) conducting it. That exact event took place in November at the Royal Albert Hall – I got a ticket, but then had a gig in Dublin. I really hope they put it on again!
Tell us about Les Misérables. I used to be a young student in the show, running around with guns. I’m now the old guy – 32 years old – and climbing down the barrricade, my back hurts. I don’t have to pretend, it’s challenging.
Where would you spend the night? Rosewood London hotel in Holborn is gorgeous. The floors are beyond clean! Queen’s Theatre, 51 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 6BA. T: 0844-482 5160. www.lesmis.com Clockwise from top left: View of London; Killian Donnelly; The National Gallery; Mad Hatters Afternoon Tea; whiskey; Les Misérables
LONDON VIEW; THE NATIONAL GALLERY, WHISKEY AND THEATRE © ISTOCK; KILLIAN DONNELLY © MUG PHOTOGRAPHY LTD; AFTERNOON TEA COURTESY OF SANDERSON HOTEL
KILLIAN DONNELLY
wembleystadium.com/tours 0800 169 9933
TOURS DEPART DAILY: 10:00 – 16:00 PRINTED TRANSLATION GUIDES AVAILABLE IN 9 LANGUAGES