Where Magazine Berlin Apr 2018

BERLIN CITY GUIDE ®

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

WHERETRAVELER.COM

APRIL 2018

CITY OF CONTRASTS From old-school to contemporary, green to grey, Berlin has it all.

PLUS SPRINGTIME REJUVENATION THE BUILDUP

SHOPPING | ENTERTAINMENT | CULTURE | DINING | MAPS

ADIEU, J e a n

Paul

GAULTIER!

Only until

04.18

CONTENTS

See more of Berlin at wheretraveler.com

The Plan Let’s get started

The Guide The best of Berlin

12

SHOPPING

22

7 Editor’s Note

XX

8 Hot Dates

Give yourself a makeover with our favorite German cosmetics.

Highlights of the month's can't-miss events, from a Bratwurst championship to the Ten Tenors.

SIGHTSEEING

37

XX up the right balance Striking between exploring the city and keeping kids entertained.

24

16

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

42

The most fascinating free XX museums in town.

18

48

8 20 Ask The Concierge

ENTERTAINMENT

54

Berlin's concierges share their city secrets.

Performances where you're sure not to go hungry.

66 My Berlin

Whisky or vodka? We have the key alcohol groups covered.

Useful information for your stay in Berlin.

BERLIN CITY GUIDE ®

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SHOPPING | ENTERTAINMENT | CULTURE | DINING | MAPS

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18 Springtime Rejuvenation

Spring is here, a chance to de-stress and detox.

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12 City Of Contrasts

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With vast green forests and concrete jungles, Berlin truly is a city of contrasts.

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Where Now

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APRIL 2018

ESSENTIALS

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WHERETRAVELER.COM

NIGHTLIFE

60

Mia Moss Spreading creative joy all over Berlin with her artistic pottery creations.

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

DINING

A contemporary revival of German cuisine - get that on your fork!

Ella-Tre reb be-Str.

T. GOOD- C. GEBAUER INSTALL T. SCHUETTE, COURTESY OF GALLERY WEEKEND BERLIN; GRUNEWALD FOREST: © ISTOCK; RAW FRIEDRICHSHAIN, CC BY-ND 2.0 VIA FLICKR USER GUILLEN PEREZ; BAUHAUS ARCHIV: COURTESY OF BAUHAUS ARCHIV; SHOE BY GEOX; LAKE: © ISTOCK.;CERAMICS: COURTESY OF MIA MOSS

Berlin

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Audited by FAM (Fachverband Ambient Media)

PORTRAIT BY THOMAS HEDRICH/FOTOSTUDIO-CHARLOTTENBURG; SKYLINE © TOTALPICS/ISTOCK/THINKSTOCK

Sarah Bethke

WELCOME TO BERLIN

Springtime!

Welcome to the end of winter! It’s so great to take in the new air, make plans for the summer, and enjoy every single ray of sun your skin can take. I don't know about you, but I am ready for a fresh new start more than ever this year. I want to try out new restaurants, go to concerts, visit art exhibitions (I can't wait to see the Irving Penn one at C/O Berlin), buy new books, and spend lots of time outdoors.

It's been a very busy month here at Where Berlin. We've explored the city's most diverging aspects to try and find Berlin's most striking contrasts (p. 12), compiled a list of the most interesting buildings of the last century (p. 16), visited the city's best free museums (p. 42), and tasted some contemporary revistations of traditional German cuisine (p. 48). If you feel the need for some rejuvenating tips, turn to page 18 and book yourself a couple of hours of pure relaxation at Berlin's newest Bali-inspired spa.

Enjoy your stay!

SOLVEIG STEINHARDT EDITOR, WHERE BERLIN

FIND FIND Festival International D New Drama D FIND The F Art D of F Forgetting FIND FIND FIND 6–22 April 2018 D FIND FIND Tickets: 030 890023 www.schaubuehne.de w w w.wheretravele w w w.wh e re t rave l er.c r. com om 7

HOT

DATES April in Berlin is a month of exciting events, from film festivals and gallery days to blooming flowers and lots of music.

27

GALLERY WEEKEND FROM FRIDAY

Immerse yourself in Berlin’s creative scene for two days and nights as more than 50 well-known and experimental galleries across the city open their doors. Gallery Weekend has established itself as a leading German event for contemporary art, and turns the capital into a hotspot for art fans and collectors worldwide. www.gallery-weekend-berlin.de

8 W H E R E B E R L I N I A P R I L 2 01 8

IRVING PENN. CENTENNIAL FROM SUNDAY

A picture is worth a thousand words. With a body of work stretching from portraits of Pablo Picasso and Alfred Hitchcock to abstract female nudes, ethnographic portraits of New Guinea natives, and glamorous fashion photos for Vogue, Irving Penn was one of the most influential photographers of the twentieth century. On the 100th anniversary of his birth, the C/O Berlin gallery is commemorating this artist with an extensive retrospective featuring around 190 of his photographic works. www.co-berlin.org

WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

11

ACHTUNG BERLIN FROM WEDNESDAY

Time for popcorn! This is the third-biggest film festival in Berlin, but what makes this week-long festival really special is that all films are shot (at least partly) in and around the German capital.

Categories include “Made in Berlin-Brandenburg,” “Berlin Independent,” and “Berlin Documents,” and the event culminates in the New Berlin Film Award ceremony. Movies are shown in cinemas across the city. www.achtungberlin.de

BRATWURST CHAMPIONSHIP SUNDAY

Sausage anyone? The Butchers’ Association of Berlin-Brandenburg will be at Domäne Dahlem on 8 April for the Berlin Bratwurst Championship. In three half-hour evaluation sessions, visitors can taste a variety of recipes, some very creative, and vote on who deserves the prestigious title of Bratwurst Champion.

Not recommended for the vegetarians. www.domaene-dahlem.de

WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

1

EDITORS SUNDAY

When their debut album was released in 2005, Editors were catapulted to instant stardom for providing the indie music world with exactly what it needed: a revolution of postpunk. Since then, they evolved into the most important indie-rockers of the last decades, releasing four more studio albums and scoring two platinum records. And if Tom Smith likes to define his music "emotional and personal, sometimes poppy,“ the press has often compared his band to Joy Division and New Order. Catch Editors’ dark, electro sound at Tempodrom this month. www.tempodrom.de

RECORD STORE DAY FROM SATURAY

Music fans who love to discuss the virtues of vinyl over mp3 will not want to miss Record Store Day, when indie record stores all over the world unite to celebrate the warm, mahogany-rich sound of vinyl records.

Taking place every year on the third Saturday of April, the event will feature special promotions, in-store gigs, and club events in about two dozen stores in Berlin.

Check out their website for details. www.recordstoredaygermany.de

11

21 ROCK MEETS CLASSIC WEDNESDAY

Entering its ninth round, this celebrated tour combines symphonic masterpieces with famed rock songs performed by the crème de la crème of rock in a three-hour extravaganza.

This year, legends such as Francis Rossi from Status Quo and John Helliwell and Jesse Siebenberg from Supertramp will be uniting on stage at Tempodrom, supported by the Mat Sinner Band and the RMC Symphony Orchestra. www.tempodrom.de

Easter Sunday at the Philharmonie 1 Celebrate with a concert of Vivaldi's Four Seasons.

The Easter concerts continue with an organ 2 matinee at the lovely Konzerthaus.

Discover striking images by Sigrid Neumann 3 at the Museum of Photography.

Get your freak on at the Flic Flac Freaks 4 circus show at Friedrichshain's RAW venue.

See two classics of Italian opera, Cavalleria 5 Rusticana and Pagliacci, at Deutsche Oper.

Emo rocker band Fall Out Boy performs their 6 latest album at Max-Schmeling-Halle.

Huge Star Wars fan? Hear all the best music 7 from the series live at Mercedes-Benz Arena.

Rossini's comic opera The Barber of Seville 8 takes the stage at Komische Oper.

A worldwide sensation, the Chinese dance 9 show Shen Yun is on now at Deutsche Oper. a musical lunch break at the 10 Take Philharmonie's free "lunch concert" at 1pm.

American alt-rock indie-pop band 11 Hear Nada Surf play live at Huxleys tonight. the best – better than all the rest! Catch a 12 Simply Tina Turner tribute show at Tempodrom. your musical horizons at an 13 Expand Akkordeonale festival concert at Passionskirche. avant-garde Shostakovich opera Lady 14 See Macbeth of Mtsensk at Deutsche Oper. indie rock band The Wombats 15 Liverpudlian play live at Astra Kulturhaus tonight. the dreamy emo crooning of Lana del 16 Hear Rey at Mercedes-Benz Arena tonight.

German indie rockers Tocotronic 17 Influential play their 12th album at Columbiahalle. in the ISM Hexadome audiovisual art 18 Immerse installation at Martin-Gropius Bau. Whisperer" Cesar Milan brings his Once 19 "Dog Upon A Dog show to Mercedes-Benz Arena. a punk mood? The Punk & Disorderly 20 Infestival is on all weekend at Astra Kulturhaus. in Mozart's lively, comic opera Don 21 Take Giovanni at Deutsche Oper this evening. antique fans, the Sunday flea market on 22 For Tiergarten's Straße der 17. Juni is a must. the complex history of Jerusalem in 23 Explore the Jewish Museum's special exhibition. pianist Mitsuko Uchida plays 24 Acclaimed Schubert and more at Pierre Boulez Saal. an afternoon Espresso Konzert at 25 Enjoy Konzerthaus – it's "caffeine for the ears." the feast at the Street Food Thursday 26 Join event at Kreuzberg's Markthalle Neun.

Berlin's Staatsballett dances the evocative 27 Don Quixote on the Deutsche Oper stage. some great brews at Neukölln's 28 Discover best craft beer bar, The Muted Horn. along to favorite tunes in Anatevka, aka.

29 Sing Fiddler on the Roof, at Komische Oper. cutting-edge sounds at Experimontag 30 Hear night at Kreuzberg's Madame Claude bar.

See listings for addresses and more info.

10 W H E R E B E R L I N I A P R I L 2 01 8

T. GOOD-C. GEBAUER-INSTALL-TSCHUETTE, COURTESY OF GALLERY WEEKEND BERLIN; COURTESY OF ACHTUNG BERLIN; AUDREY HEPBURN, PARIS, 1951 © CONDÉ NAST 07 ALFRED HITCHCOCK, NEW YORK, 1947 © THE IRVING PENN FOUNDATION; EDITORS: © RAHI REZVANI. ; ROCK MEETS CLASSIC: COURTESY OF ROCK MEETS CLASSIC; TULIPS AND SAUSAGE: © ISTOCK PHOTO

APRIL

ADVERTORIAL

PHOTO CREDIT ALL PHOTOS: © GOES GRÜN HERE BERLIN; TRAIN: PHOTO BY LUTZ GRIESBACH; CHERRY TREES: © KLEINE UTHMANN.

TULIP FESTIVAL AT BRITZER GARTEN Spring is finally here, with crocuses, daffodils, and of course tulips, which are the stars of the show at Britzer Garten’s annual Tulipan festival. After the grey winter months, the longing for color and explosion of more than one million tulips from hundreds of different varieties attracts up to 150,000 visitors every year.

Many of the bulbs are planted neatly in flowerbeds of contrasting color, while others are scattered about adjacent fields, all of them dazzling in the sunlight. Check the website for details as timing of the festival always depends on Mother Nature herself. The rest of the garden offers more opportunity for relaxing, with hilly meadows, a large, scenic pond, a waterside restaurant, and a kids’ playgrounds. Explore it all by foot or ride the old park train. www.britzer-garten.de. Mohriner Allee 152. Daily from 9am. T: 030.70090680.

CHERRY BLOSSOM FESTIVAL AT GÄRTEN DER WELT For springtime strolls with a global flair, don’t miss Gärten der Welt in Marzahn-Hellersdorf.

Here you can take in the beauty of ten culturally themed gardens and nine garden cabinets from countries such as Thailand, Brazil, and China, as well as English landscape gardens. At this time of year, however, the main attraction are the Far East gardens of Japan, Korea, and China, where the cherry trees are in full bloom and celebrations break out for the opening of the new season and the annual Cherry Blossom Festival, scheduled for 15 April this year. Enjoy dance performances, singing, and traditional drumming while savoring culinary delights and admiring traditional craftsmanship. Another highlight are the cable cars you can ride high above the expansive garden with a spectacular view of the surroundings. www.gaerten-der-welt.de. Blumberger Damm 44 (Marzahn). Daily from 9am.

T: 030 700906778.

w w w.wheretraveler.c w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com o m 11

Wherever your tastes may lie, this city truly has it all, Hilda Hoy believes. ravel writers are fond – perhaps a bit too fond – of highlighting the contrasts within the world’s cities.

But in Berlin, it’s no cliché – the “city of contrasts” label truly fits.

Berlin is defined by both its complex, tragic past and its rapidly developing, optimistic present. It’s equally renowned for world-class cultural institutions and its no-holds-barred, underground party scene.

Striking contrasts can be found everywhere, sometimes all in one place.

Take the Reichstag, for example, a famed emblem of German democracy: The Neo-Baroque façade of the building dates back to the 1880s. Inside, the walls are still scarred in places with bullet holes and Soviet graffiti from the fierce final days of WWII. And up top is the crowning glory, a contemporary glass cupola designed by star architect Norman Foster, only added in the 1990s after German reunification.

Berlin truly covers both ends of the spectrum. So the only question is: Where do you want to start?

OLDSCHOOL VS. CONTEMPORARY CLUBBING Before diving into the famed Berlin nightlife, get a taste for what partying was like in the olden days at Clärchens Ballhaus (Auguststr. 24, www.ballhaus. de). Dating back more than a century, this oldschool dance hall is something of a time capsule in the heart of Mitte’s polished gallery and shopping district. Join gray-haired grandparents as well as younger party animals on the dance floor – there’s disco on Tuesdays, swing on Wednesdays, cha cha and waltzing on Thursdays, and on the weekends, classic and contemporary hits played by a live band.

To worship at Berlin’s infamous temples of techno, the three big names to know are Berghain, Tresor, Watergate. The most legendary of them all, Berghain, has long lines and the toughest bouncers in town, but once you’re in, several floors of thudding, bass-heavy bliss await, featuring earth-shattering sound systems and some of the best techno DJs in the world. Tresor is another club legend, especially known for its basement vault where you can lose yourself in hardcore techno and the fog of the smoke machine. Kreuzberg’s Watergate, meanwhile, leans toward slick house and a slickly dressed crowd too.

Clärchens Ballhaus 16 W H EERREE LO 12 BER NLDI N ON I AI PJRAIN L UA 2 01 R 8Y 2013

WHERE NOW | CITY OF CONTRASTS

HIGH UP VS. DEEP DOWN Berlin’s skyline is almost entirely skyscraper-free, with one notable exception: the TV Tower (Panoramastr. 1a, www.tv-turm.de), completed in 1969 to be the shining beacon of East Berlin. All these decades later, it remains one of the highest buildings in Europe, and the interior features some charmingly retro touches. To properly take in the view, book a table in the revolving Sphere restaurant, 203 meters up in the sky. The restaurant slowly spins 360 degrees per hour to provide a stunning look across the expanse of the cityscape.

If underground exploration, rather than great heights, is more your thing, join a Berliner Unterwelten tour (www.berlinerunterwelten.de). The intrepid adventurers behind this non-profit organization have made it their mission to “explore and document the city's underground architecture,” and their tours provide access to secret spots that are otherwise completely off limits.

Explore a WWII bomb shelter, a Cold War nuclear shelter prepared in case WWIII broke out, or follow the trail of escape tunnels dug beneath the Berlin Wall.

BUDGET VS. SPLURGE

Grill Royal

The entrance of Berghain

For a taste of classic, local cuisine that won’t break the budget, there’s no better place than Rogacki (Wilmersdorfer Str. 145–146, www.rogacki.de), an old-school, family-run Charlottenburg deli that dates back to 1928. The counters in the back room do a roaring lunch trade six days a week, specializing in Berliner comfort foods like boulette meatballs, roasted piglet, crispy plaice fillets, and three different kinds of potato salad. Stake out a spot at the seafood counter in the middle of the room to slurp oysters, nibble shrimp cocktail, and sop up fish stew with pieces of crusty bread.

For a chic, special-occasion splurge, nowhere beats Grill Royal (Friedrichstr.

105b, www.grillroyal.com). This understatedly posh restaurant on the Spree River embankment in Mitte is famous for two things: marvelous steaks and celebrity sightings. Start the night off with a platter of oysters or a lobster salad before moving on the main act – there’s Argentinian Chateaubriand, Japanese Wagyu, Omaha T-bone, and many more to choose from. A hefty helping of glamour comes with, naturally. w w w.wheretraveler.c w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com o m 13 17

TV TOWER SPHERE RESTAURANT: PHOTO BY HILDA HOY; CLÄRCHENS BALLHAUS: CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 VIA FLICKR USER LEIF HARBOE; BERGHAIN SHIRT CC BY 2.0 VIA FLICKR USER ROBERT AGTHE; BERGHAIN ENTRYWAY CC BY NC. 2.0 VIA FLICKR USER TOBIAS FIEBIGER CC VIA FLICKR; GRILL ROYAL: COURTESY OF GRILL ROYAL.

The view from Sphere restaurant on top of the TV Tower.

WHERE NOW | CITY OF CONTRASTS

The Grunewald forest

For such a cosmopolitan city, Berlin is rich in green spaces to chill out in nature. Take a hike in the massive Grunewald forest – where wild boar sightings are not at all uncommon – and dip your toes in Teufelssee lake, a popular nudist swimming spot come summertime. For a breath of fresh air closer to the city center, there’s always Tiergarten, which was a private hunting ground and pleasure garden for the royal family until 1881.

Today, it’s a lovely spot for strolls, picnics, and even naps on the grass.

The Staatsoper Unter den LInden 14 W H E R E B E R L I N I A P R I L 2 01 8

If nature makes you yawn and you’d rather explore Berlin’s harder side, the postindustrial landscape of RAW-Tempel (Revaler Str. 99) is the place. Once a train yard where carriages were brought for maintenance, the sprawling Friedrichshain complex fell into disrepair to become the characterful and decrepit place it is today, where subculture in all its many manifestations have found a home. Besides street art galore, you’ll find a climbing gym, swimming lounge, circus school, flea market, open-air cinema, a vegetarian café, and clubs and concert venues like Cassiopeia and Suicide Circus.

FORMAL VS. INFORMAL If you like your culture prim and proper, the newly renovated Staatsoper (Unter den Linden 7, www.staatsoper-berlin.de) is the place to go for a grand night out.

After years of renovations, the storied opera house on Unter den Linden boulevard finally reopened last fall. The Staatsoper, the largest opera house in Europe when it was first built in the 1740s, is renowned for the caliber of its house orchestra, the Staatskapelle, conducted by the legendary Daniel Barenboim, and famed for its stagings of operas by Strauss, Verdi, and the formidable Wagner.

The Piano Salon Christophori in Wedding (Uferstr. 8, www. konzertfluegel.com), on the other hand, is so informal that most of the concerts are by donation only. In a brick warehouse in Wedding where U-Bahn cars were once repaired, pro pianists play intimate shows to an audience perched on mismatched sofas and chairs. By day, the space is a workshop for restoring antique pianos, but by night, under the glow of vintage chandeliers, it comes alive with music. Help yourself at the self-serve wine bar and sit back to enjoy the show.

GRUNEWALD: © ISTOCK; RAW FRIEDRICHSHAIN CC BY-ND 2.0 VIA FLICKR USER GUILLEN PEREZ; STAATSOPER COURTESY OF STAATSOPER UNTER DEN LINDEN

LUSH GREEN VS. GREY CONCRETE

The RAW Gelände

February 24 to June 10, 2018

The World as a Stage

Max Beckmann: Actors: Triptych (central panel), 1941/42, Harvard Art Museums/Fogg Museum, Cambridge, MA, gift Lois Orswell, © VG Bild-Kunst, Bonn 2018, Photo: Imaging Department, © President and Fellows of Harvard College

Max Beckmann

Museum Barberini

Alter Markt, Humboldtstr. 5–6

Visitor service

14467 Potsdam, Germany

T +49 331 236014-499

besucherservice@museum-barberini.com

www.museum-barberini.com

Media partners

WHERE NOW | ARCHITECTURE

BUILDING UP BERLIN Annabelle Mallia will never again look at the city landscape in the same way.

16 W H E R E B E R L I N I A P R I L 2 01 8

F BIKINI BERLIN: COURTESY OF BIKINI BERLIN; POTSDAMER PLATZ: COURTESY OF VISIT BERLIN; BAUHAUS ARCHIV: © BAUHAUS ARCHIV, PHOTO BY MARKUS HAWLIK © VG BILD KUNST, OLYMPIASTADION: © ISTOCK.

rom its creative heyday in the 1920s, its destruction in WWII, followed by an almost 30-year-long division, Berlin’s architectural landscape offers fascinating insights into the city’s history.

Let’s take a tour of the most distinctive architectural periods and styles of the last 100 years or so.

LESS IS MORE A century ago, Berlin’s urban landscape mainly comprised 4-story buildings, many featuring pretty facades recalling the Baroque, Gothic, and Renaissance periods, some decorated with Art Nouveau elements. Wealthier families lived in the street-facing “front house,” while the working class lived in the darker courtyard apartments. These buildings still make up many of the city’s residential areas, and great ones can be seen in Charlottenburg around Savignyplatz, Kreuzberg’s Bergmannkiez, and Prenzlauer Berg. In the 1920s, however, the desire to combine simplified form with function gave rise to the Bauhaus movement, led by Walter Gropius.

Bauhaus architects devised a new form of social housing estates called Siedlungen, which opened up living spaces and incorporated gardens and local community services. Key examples are the White City (Schillerring 13) and the Horseshoe Estate (FritzRenate-Allee 44) created by Martin Wagner and Bruno Taut, both now listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The idea was also combined with the English garden-city concept at Onkel-Toms-Hütte, an enormous estate in the lush greenery of Grunewald and right next to the Krumme Lanke lake.

Tip: To learn more about the Bauhaus movement, hurry to the Bauhaus Archiv (Klingelhöferstr. 14, www.bauhaus.de) before it closes for renovations at the end of the month. Check out the museum store to bring home some design souvenirs.

THE ARCHITECTURE OF EVIL As soon as Hitler came to power, the Bauhaus school was shut down, as it was considered a center of Communist intellectualism. As Germany prepared for war, Hitler’s chief architect Albert Speer was put in charge of transforming Berlin into the “world capital city Germania.”

Left: Potsdamer Platz; this photo: Olympiastadion; below right: the Bikini Haus building; inset, below left: Bauhaus Archiv.

Thankfully Speer’s plans did not come to fruition, although a few Nazi-era buildings remain standing today. Key examples are the Colosseum-like Olympiastadion (Olympischer Platz 3), home stadium to Berlin’s beloved Hertha football team, and the former Tempelhof Airport. Recently converted into a lively public park, the airport was once the biggest of its time. The check-in hall has an imposing concrete façade adorned with austere Nazi eagles, monumental blocktype staircases, and a rooftop terrace to provide perfect views of the Reich’s air shows.

Tip: Sign up for a guided tour of the airport in English (www.thf-berlin.de) or order a picnic basket from Picnic Berlin (www.picnic-berlin.com) and settle down on a patch of grass by the runway to simply soak in the atmosphere and history.

IRON CURTAINS, CONCRETE HOUSES The division of Berlin after WWII brought together the architecture of two competing ideologies: the modernist aspirations of the West vs. the East’s socialist reinterpretation of neoclassicism.To see the difference, take a walk down Karl-Marx-Allee, a monumental boulevard developed by standout GDR architect Hermann Henselmann and lined by eight-story, wedding-cake-style luxury apartments meant for party officials. In contrast, West Berlin’s urban planning rebuilt the city free from grandiose monuments in a manner that provided many open spaces, perhaps as a metaphor for a free society.

Heritage-listed Bikini-Haus, standing opposite the bombed-out Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church near Zoo station, was built in the 1950s as part of West Berlin’s

redevelopment project. This retro-looking building was renovated in 2014 to house the Bikini Berlin concept mall.

Tip: Visiting the Bikini Berlin mall (www. bikiniberlin.de) is a great way to get a glimpse of 1950s architecture while checking out some design shops. Don’t miss the rooftop terrace overlooking the Tiergarten Zoo. FILLING IN THE BLANKS In the 1990s, Berlin administrators set to work on the difficult task of filling empty spaces left by the Berlin Wall’s physical and virtual “death strip.” One of the first major projects was Daniel Libeskind’s Jewish Museum (Lindenstr. 9-14), an eclectic work of jagged angles and oblique lines, which symbolizes the tormented history of the Jews in Germany. For the reconstruction of Potsdamer Platz, famed architects and a skyful of cranes worked for years to recreate the formerly bustling square. A short walk away is Leipziger Platz, a busy shopping area before the war. Reborn in 2014 with the opening of the expansive Mall of Berlin, this Platz is a great example of how contemporary architecture can be inspired by the past to recreate a place’s original function.

Tip: Book the Modern Architecture tour with Get Your Guide (www.getyourguide. com) for a two hour walk around the city’s newest architectural developments. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 17

WHERE NOW | SPRINGTIME

Springtime Solveig Steinhardt has been waiting for this moment since 21 September.

S

pring is time for new beginnings.

The birds are chirping, the sun’s back out, and nature is waking up again. While our spirits rejoice and celebrate nature, let’s prepare our bodies for the new season and help our minds forget the stress of the bygone winter. Here’s how: 1 ACHIEVE BALINESE HARMONY A couple of years ago, Chilean beauty professional Andrea Jimenez and Indonesian massage expert Erie Tresnawati were waiting for their connecting flights at Dubai International Airport when they started chatting and, as one does, decided to create a spa in Berlin together. They wanted to faithfully recreate the style and luxury of Bali’s most elegant hotel spas, but also provide an authentic corner of Southeast Asia in western Berlin. Balispa opened last January in a quiet corner of Wilmersdorf, and is now a popular getaway for locals and visitors alike. Literally every single detail, from the bathroom tiles and art on the walls to the kimonos to the hairbands, comes directly from Bali, handpicked by Andrea and Erie on their long research trips to the island.

And for that extra feeling of escape, any possible reminder of Berlin (pipes, plugs, switches) was cleverly hidden away from sight. Make an appointment for a Balinese massage, a four-hand massage, a body wrap, or a foot ritual. Or book a treatment for two, combined with a rose petal bath in the one of the large tubs. Tropical fruit platters and ginger tea complete the offer and help guests re-establish the lost harmony between body and mind.

Hohenzollerndamm 132.

Tel 030.68052800.

18 W H E R E B E R L I N I A P R I L 2 01 8

Rejuven

This photo and inset: Balispa.

Opposite page: healthy produce; A fish specialty from Lowkal restaurant; Cycling at Krumme Lanke.

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE

2 BETTER FOOD, BETTER LIFE With beach days getting closer and closer, the beginning of spring is a bit of a last call to start taking your new year’s resolutions a bit more seriously. Luckily, Berlin has recently become a real haven for healthful eating, with lots of restaurants paying more attention to what ingredients they use and how they affect our bodies and the environment. A new addition to that list is Lowkal. Playing with the words “local” and “low-calorie,” this café and restaurant offers freshly made, low-carb seasonal food meant to satisfy all the different eating habits: the food is entirely gluten-free, and while carnivores can count on high-quality meat, vegans and vegetarians can choose between various menu options, supplemented with high-protein “superfoods” like chia seeds, sprouts, and legumes.

Pfalzburgerstr. 72a, www.lowkal.berlin 3 I LOVE NATURE After all these months spent indoors, you’ve got to get your lungs used to fresh oxygen again. Pick a sunny day and take the U3 all the way down to Krumme Lanke, one of Berlin’s most popular lakes. A run around the water basin will help you re-establish a relationship with nature and with your muscles, but don’t miss the sand beaches where you can officially welcome the spring by catching some rays. w w w.wheretraveler.c w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com o m 19

BALISPA: COURTESY OF BALISPA; LOWKAL: COURTESY OF LOWKAL; LAKE AND FOOD: © ISTOCK

nation

Ask the

CONCIERGE

Nobody knows the city better than your expert concierge.

Bernd Roehner from Hilton Berlin is here to help. www.lcdg.org

What does your perfect day look like?

A Mediterranean breakfast with my wife at Mauna Kea café in Friedrichshagen, followed by a bike tour in the green surroundings of Potsdam, or a lakeside break with fishing and picnic, preferably with both grandchildren. In the evening, a chamber concert at the Philharmonie, followed by dinner and drinks at Golvet on Potsdamer Platz.

and Hafenküche restaurants in the Rummelsburger bay, where you can dine or enjoy a stress-free waterside tour of the city.

And the Babylon cinema at Rosa-LuxemburgPlatz, which on occasion features silent film concerts.

Where do you take your visitors?

To the Humboldt Box, from which they can admire the Lustgarten, Museum Island, and the construction site of the new Berliner Schloss from above. I also like to take them to Molkenmarkt and Nikolaiviertel, Berlin’s historical cradle, or on a bridge cruise on the river Spree, including explanations on Berlin’s urban development. I love the Heckmann- and Sophie-Gipshöfe courtyards, with their galleries, trendy shops, and traces of Jewish life in Berlin. Other places I recommend are the Asisi Wall Panorama exhibition at Checkpoint Charlie, the Bikini Haus, and Café Grosz on Ku’damm.

Do you know a romantic place in Berlin?

Two deep armchairs by the window at the restaurantcafé Quchnia, overlooking Gendarmenmarkt.

Insider tips for Berlin?

The Pfefferberg Areal, which is the former location of one of the oldest breweries in Berlin, now housing a theater, an art gallery, the Museum of Architectural Drawings (www.tchoban-foundation.de), and restaurants. But also the city marina From top to bottom: The Nikolaikirche; table settings at Spindler und Klatt; the interior of Sky Bar; the Kammermusiksaal; a lake near Potsdam.

20 W H EERREE LO BER NLDI N ON I AI PJRAIN L UA 2 01R 8Y 2013

Tips for a German specialty?

I love black pudding with sauerkraut – try it at Weinstein in Prenzlauer Berg or at the Hilton restaurant Mark Brandenburg.

Your tip for Berlin nightlife?

Clärchens Ballhaus on a swing evening, and then the Skybar, with fantastic views of Berlin's eastern skyline and great cocktails.

The perfect Berlin souvenir?

An illustrated book with a “yesterdaytoday” juxtaposition, placed inside a shoulder bag with incorporated city map.

YOUR CONCIERGE IS HAPPY TO HELP!

Talk to your concierge if you need assistance with restaurant reservations, concert tickets, arranging spa services, booking transportation, or simply to ask for recommendations.

NIKOLAIKIRCHE AND POTSDAM: ©ISTOCK; KAMMERMUSIKSAAL: COURTESY OF PHILHARMONIE, PHOTO BY FRIEDRICH; SKY BAR: COURTESY OF SKY BAR; SPINDLER UND KLATT: COURTESY OF SPINDLER UND KLLATT

WHERE NOW | CONCIERGE

Advertorial

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Freak OUT or Freak OFF

Tickets are available at www.flicflac.de/freaks

SHOPPING | THE GUIDE Clockwise from this photo: A treatment at the Nivea store; Weleda Store; makeup from und Gretel.

Make Me Up Annabelle Mallia turned to Germany’s renowned beauty brands for a new makeover.

Take Germany’s famous engineering skills, its pioneering spirit, and the Germans’ love for nature and the environment, and apply all that to beauty products. Germany’s cosmetics are a combination of all of the above, and the country has recently become a cult beauty destination with industry insiders and enthusiasts world over. Here are my favorite brands: In recent years, world-famous German brand Nivea (www.nivea.de) has managed to elevate a classic, basic product into an exclusive line, and the Nivea flagship store at Unter den Linden 28 is somewhat of a beauty theme park dedicated to the popular white cream. Check out hundreds of those iconic blue-and-white tins and a photo booth where you can get one with your face printed on it, an onsite spa for urgently needed recuperation, and of course every imaginable Nivea product, including Nivea 22 W H E R E B E R L I N I A P R I L 2 01 8

Q10 cream-infused shorts and tights.

Playful and cosmopolitan Berlin-based brand Uslu Airlines (www.usluairlines.com) is responsible for having developed the airbrush technique and makeup, celebrated by the entire beauty and fashion industry.

Their impressive range of makeup shades, including fabulous line of nail polishes, can be found at luxury department store KaDeWe (Tauentzienstr. 21-24).

To explore the world of German organic products, start with biodynamic brand Weleda (www.weleda.de). Its products are sold in pharmacies and organic shops, but the company also has a flagship store with a dizzying selection of products in Mitte (Brunnenstr. 5). Look out for the Weleda Skin Food cream which has become a cult product thanks to its 100%-natural ingredients, and is used as a backstage beauty essential during Berlin Fashion Week.

The enriching balm made with beeswax and

extracts of chamomile, pansy, and calendula is also perfect for frequent travellers.

Another great organic brand is Merme (www.mermeberlin.com), whose singleelement oils have been described as “soul food for the skin.” The classic brown bottles and purist concept of this Berlin-based brand have quickly amassed a beautyblogger following. Their signature product is the Facial Beauty Elixir, which is 100% cold-pressed rose hip oil, sold at newcomer Treat Collection Beauty Loft (Schönhauser Allee 55). Or check out und Gretel (www. undgretel.com), quite possibly the trendiest organic makeup brand out there. Describing itself as makeup with a fashion heart and a pure soul, und Gretel uses entirely natural ingredients to create products in bold, modern colors. You can buy their makeup and face products at the MDC Cosmetic boutique located in hip Prenzlauer Berg (Knaackstr.26).

SHOPPING

THE

where GUIDELINES

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Every effort is made to provide accurate and updated information.

However, information may be subject to last minute changes, so it is always advisable to call ahead.

INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS T: Telephone number S: S-Bahn, Above-ground train system U: U-Bahn, Underground train system MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 64-65.

OPENING HOURS Opening hours may vary, so it’s best to call ahead.

Shops are open Mon–Sat only, and Sunday shopping is only possible on certain Sundays of the year.

Groceries can be bought on Sundays at major train stations (Hauptbahnhof, Friedrichstraße, at Ullrich at Zoologischer Garten, or Ostbahnhof ). Shopping malls are open 10am–8pm and smaller stores only until 6pm.

TOURIST INFORMATION VisitBerlin is the official source of information on the city. Call T: 030.25002333 for specific Berlin information, or go to www.visitberlin.de for details on all information centers, events, and sights.

range of goods from over 70 shops. Check out the ingenious water clock designed by Bernard Gitton in 1982. www.europa-center-berlin.de.

Tauentzienstr. 9–12. T: 030.26497940.

U Kurfürstendamm, U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Galeria Kaufhof The former East German department store, renovated in 2006, showcases more than 600 exclusive brands and an exquisite gourmet section covering 35,000sq.m (377,000sq.ft) of space. www.galeria-kaufhof.de. Alexanderplatz 9.

T: 030.247430.

S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Galeries Lafayette The Berlin branch of the exclusive Parisian department store is developed around an extraordinary glass cone. The three circular floors rise up around this centerpiece, packed with perfumes, clothing, and accessories. The food counter offers a wide range of French specialties and there’s a corner selling teas from the famed French tea house Mariage Frères. www.galerieslafayette.de. Friedrichstr. 76–78.

T: 030.209480.

U Französische Straße. E3

Kaufhaus des Westens (KaDeWe) The biggest and oldest department store in Germany sells only products of the highest quality.

If you're short on time, the legendary gourmet food hall on the sixth floor is not to be missed. www.kadewe.de. Tauentzienstr. 21–24.

T: 030.21210. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Mall of Berlin 270 shops, 270 apartments, gyms, and pedestrian areas define the new Mall of Berlin on Leipziger Platz, a world of shopping opportunities a stone’s throw from the city’s main tourist attractions. www.mallofberlin.de.Leipziger Platz 12.

U Mohrenstraße. E3

Potsdamer Platz Arkaden This large shopping center offers more than 120 shops over three floors, stocking everything from clothes and accessories to electronics and groceries. Its restaurants and bars, both inside and in surrounding streets, also make it a very popular meeting spot. www.potsdamer-platz-arkaden.de.

Tourist Info Points: Brandenburg Gate – Pariser Platz, daily 9:30am–6pm (until 7pm in summer).

Hauptbahnhof – Europaplatz 1, Level 0, daily 8am–9pm.

TV Tower Alexanderplatz – Panoramastr. 1a, daily 10am–4pm.

DEPARTMENT STORES & MALLS Alexa Hardcore shoppers love this mall for its sheer size, with over 180 stores spread over five levels. Highstreet retailers are well represented, and a large food court obliges when hunger overwhelms your desire to shop. www.alexacentre.com.

Grunerstr. 20. T: 030.269340121.

S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

BIKINI BERLIN BIKINI BERLIN combines shopping with a fun and relaxing experience. The historical building complex in Berlin's west end makes for interesting strolls, also offering beautiful views of the Berlin zoo and its animals, which can be admired both from indoors as well as from the rooftop terrace.

But the main attraction is the curated selection of shops, which include individual pop-up boxes frequently showcasing new designers, popular brands, and many design stores. www.bikiniberlin.de.

Budapester Str. 38-50.

T: 030.55496455. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

COURTESY OF BURLINGTON

Designer Outlet Berlin Your favorite designer brands with discounts up to 70 percent, at just 30 minutes from the city center. Also features cafes and restaurants, a children’s play area, free parking and more that 100 international brands. Shuttle bus from center on Fri-Sat. Mon–Sat 10am–8pm. www.designeroutletberlin.com.

Alter Spandauer Weg 1. T: 033234.9040.

Take the regional train to Elstal. Off Map

Europa Center This shopping mall on the Ku’damm offers a

Another Pair Of Socks!

Inspired by both classic looks and the latest trends, Burlington specializes in keeping feet warm with stylish socks for every occasion. Check out a wealth of knee-highs, shoe liners, leg warmers, boot socks, and much more in so many different colors and patterns, it will be hard to choose. Get them at KaDeWe (p. 23) or Galeria Kaufhof (p. 23) . www.wheretraveler.com 23

SHOPPING | THE GUIDE 1

2

8

EVERYTHING BUT THE SUIT

7

3

Accessories for the contemporary man

6

4

5

1. Rimowa, Kurfürstendamm 231. 2. Porsche Design, Kurfürstendamm 48.

3. Timberland, Kurfürstendamm 26a.

4. COS Berlin, Kurfürstendamm 217. 5. GEOX, Kurfürstendamm 209.

6. Barbour, KaDeWe, Tauentzienstr. 21–24. 7. COS Berlin, Kurfürstendamm 217.

8. Montblanc at Juwelier Leicht, Unter den Linden 77 .

24 W H E R E B E R L I N I A P R I L 2 01 8

SHOPPING Alte Potsdamer Str. 7. T: 030.2559270.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

FASHION Annette Görtz Inspired by geometric lines and the use of "non-colors" such as black, beige, white, and gray, fashion brand Annette Görtz combines comfort with understated elegance. www.annettegoertzcom. T: 030 20074613.

Markgrafenstr. 42. U Stadtmitte. E3

Basler Founded in Berlin in 1936 and now sold around the globe, Basler stands for femininity and versatility, aiming to make women of all ages and sizes look and feel good. From everyday style to business casual to something elegant for a night out, you’ll find plenty to add to your wardrobe. Second store at Schloßstr.

28. www.basler-fashion.com. Kurfürstendamm 220.

T: 030.88472949. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Beatrice von Tresckow Sumptuous, elegant, somewhat extravagant.

Beatrice Von Tresckow women's clothes are lively and colorful, an eye-catching addition to any wardrobe. www.beatricevontresckow.com, Leibnizstr. 60. T: 030 308318. U Adenauer Platz. C4

Be Edgy With rule-breaking elements and a timeless soul, this Berlin-born fashion label makes perfectly cut leather jackets and a variety of accessories meant for rebellious and cheeky boys and girls. www.be.edgy.de. Bleibtreustr. 27.

T: 0176.61137540. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Boggi Milano Italian elegance for men. Specializes in high-quality suits that are formal while also remaining comfortable, and also carries a sport casual collection. www.boggi.com.

Kurfürstendamm 195-196.

T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

European labels such as cool Danish brand NÜ, Beate Heymann Street Couture, playful Spanish label Uno Piu Uno, and bags from By Lou Lou, together with other accessories to complement your new outfit. Unique art pieces are also on sale to help you express your individuality in the home or garden. www.byanne.de. Rosenthaler Str. 31.

T: 030.28879436. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Cotélac

The French just have that certain je ne sais quoi when it comes to style.

The Ku'damm was West Laid-back, breezy, comfortable, Berlin's most important and nonetheless elegant, the shopping strip during Cotélac collections capture that the Cold War. quintessential French style in clothing and accessories for both Blue Tomato women and men. Brand hallmarks are No matter if your cruising on snow, fine fabrics, subtle details and unique prints water, or asphalt, this sports store has everything a rider’s heart desires. From created with special dye and fabric techniques. snowboards, skateboards, and surfboards to Mulackstr. 6. the finest selection of streetwear, sneakers, and T: 030 53604074. www.cotelac.fr. accessories from top brands like Burton, Volcom U Weinmeisterstraße. F2 and Vans, this is a real boarder's paradise. www.blue-tomato.com. Nürnberger Str. 13.

Ellen Eisemann T: 030.21966647. U Wittenbergplatz. C4 Feminine and chic dresses , skirts, tops made for the Audrey Hepburns of today. Simple, geometric

By Anne cuts and eye-catching colors and prints combine a

By Anne offers designer fashion from sought-after timeless style with a glamorous vintage look. www.elleneisemann.com. Monumentenstraße 33-34. 030 78898595. S Yorckstraße. D5

designer depot This boutique in Mitte offers selected designer fashion, shoes, and accessories for men and ladies at up to 50 percent off. There are more than 30 international labels such as Calvin Klein, Iceberg, Roberto Cavalli, and Valentino. www.designer-depot.net. Rochstr. 2.

T: 030.28046700. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Finn's Mode This tiny store near Savignyplatz stocks a large variety of fashion items with a personality, for women "who know who they are and like to dress well." Brands include Piazza Sempione, Zenggi, Cambio, Le Tricot Perugia, and more, and the selection ranges from dresses and skirts to accessories like shoes and bags. www.finns-mode.de. Bleibtreustr. 47.

T: 030.8832202. U Uhlandstraße B4

Ganni Berlin Founded in Copenhagen, Ganni carries easy-towear pieces for women with an attitude who like to mix things up. Elegant and effortless clothing, lingerie, accessories, and shoes. www.ganni.com.

Alte Schönhauser Str. 6.

T: 030.27590966. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

It’s In The Bag Struggling to fit everything back into your suitcase? Or simply need to distinguish yours from the hundreds of other black ones at baggage claim? Berlin-based LOQI (www.loqi.eu) specializes in extra-loveable and super-strong eco-bags, drawstring backpacks, zip pockets, and luggage covers. Collaborating with artists from around the world, they have an ever-expanding range of colorful and bold designs, sure to earn you miles of smiles wherever you go. From their exclusive Museum line, a carefully curated collection from the world’s finest museums, to the Cats&Dogs and Geometry collections, designs are diverse as life itself, with something for everyone.

And you can find them just about anywhere, at places like Dussman, Butlers, KaDeWe, Galeria Kaufhof, and Parfümerie Douglas.

26 W H E R E B E R L I N I A P R I L 2 01 8

Gobi Cashmere The first European store of this luxury Mongolian cashmere manufacturer opened in December 2016 to bring organic, high-quality cashmere fashion and fabrics produced in Asia to the highest standards. www.shop-gobi.com/en/.

Knesebeckstr. 30. T: 030.22466513.

U Uhlandstraße. E2

Goldsteg Designer Outlet This outlet store carries one-of-a-kind fashion pieces, exciting accessories and high-quality Italian leather bags by a wide range of designers. www.goldsteg.de. Carmerstr. 8.

T: 030 51307933. S Savignyplatz. B4

Marc Cain A worldwide premium brand for women’s fashion with its own production facility in Germany.

Marc Cain effortlessly combines aesthetics and innovation in design and materials, making a declaration of love to women. www.marc-cain.com.

Friedrichstr. 61. See website for more locations.

T: 030.20077219. U Stadtmitte. E3

No.1 IN SHOPPING, LEISURE & E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N B E R L I N MO - SA 10am - 9pm ALEXA AT ALEXANDERPLATZ OPEN ON SUNDAYS: FOOD COURT AND LEISURE AREA

Marina Rinaldi Born inside the Max Mara fashion group in 1980, this label stocks a collection of garments and accessories for the curvier woman and represents a turning point in the history of women’s apparel. www.marinarinaldi.com.

Kurfürstendamm 178 (check website for other locations).

T: 030.88554046. U Adenauerplatz. B4

180 SHOPS FASHION, ACCESSORIES, ELECTRONICS, BOOKS & MUCH MORE SHOPPING

Max Mara One of the oldest and most prestigious Italian fashion houses, known for its quality craftsmanship and ready-to-wear clothing. www.maxmara.com.

Kurfürstendamm 178 (check website for other locations). T: 030.8852545. U Adenauerplatz. B4

Mientus One of the largest providers of exclusive fashion in Germany. Four levels housing collections from top international designers like Dolce & Gabbana, Moncler, and Gucci. www.mientus.com.

Wilmersdorfer Str. 73. T: 030.3239077.

U Wilmersdorfer Straße, S Charlottenburg. B4

Michael Kors The New York-based designer Michael Kors is known for his ready-to-wear fashion and luxury accessories – bags, watches, jewelry, shoes, and other award-winning designs. www.michaelkors. com. Kurfürstendamm 219. T: 030.81825760.

U Uhlandstraße. C4; Rosenthaler Str. 37.

T: 030.24088690. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Sei Du selbst.

ALEXACENTRE.COM

Patrick Hellmann Among the most successful luxury brands in the fashion world, Patrick Hellmann stands for timelessness, elegant designs, quality materials, and extravagant details. There are also clothes

by Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior, and Dolce & Gabbana. www.patrick-hellmann.com.

Kurfürstendamm 190–192. T: 030.88487711.

U Adenauerplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

HARBOUR

COUTURE

Strellson This Swiss company creates fashion for men who are on their way up or, as they say, for young men with big plans. Concentrating on clarity, the Strellson philosophy is based on clear cuts and top quality for their suits and other urban wears, as well as transparent values and work attitudes. www.strellson.com. Mall of Berlin. Direct entrance from Voßstraße. T: 030.229088200.

U Mohrenstraße. E3

Rebecca Store With a unique boudoir atmosphere, this concept store is a harmonious medley of European and American designers, including Yigal Azrouel, Vera Wang, and Gas Bijoux. All items are personally selected by owner Rebecca Zehden on her many trips abroad. www.rebecca-berlin.de.

Alte Schönhauser Str. 41. T: 030 34620780.

U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Strellson This Swiss company creates fashion for men who are on their way up or, as they say, for young men with big plans. Concentrating on clarity, the Strellson philosophy is based on clear cuts and top quality for their suits and other urban wears, as well www.wheretraveler.com 27

SHOPPING as transparent values and work attitudes. www.strellson.com. Münzstr. 8. T: 030.24724042.

U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Talbot Runhof Designers Johnny Talbot and Adrian Runhof launched their label in Munich but have since gone global, branching out from glamorous evening gowns into everyday outfits and accessories. Discover the comprehensive range of dresses, separates, and knitwear, plus shoes and accessories in their Charlottenburg boutique.

A brand hallmark is the complex, precise cuts and unusual seam placement used to create feminine, flattering silhouettes. Schlüterstr. 50.

T: 030 23363170. www.talbotrunhof.com.

U Uhlandstraße, S Savignyplatz. B4

This men’s boutique carries the best German and international brands, catering to a demanding man and offering a variety of styles, from classy to casual, from business to sporty. Brands include Calvin Klein, Black Kaviar, Lee Jeans, and Hugo Boss. www.wormland.de. Mall of Berlin. Direct entrance from Voßstraße. T: 030.229088200.

U Mohrenstraße. E3

Founded in Germany 60 years ago as a brand for workers, Wellensteyn is now a high-class label for quality technical jackets that are also stylish, as well as other items for the outdoor life. www.wellensteyn.com. Europa Center.

Tauentzienstr. 9-, 12. T: 030.23927186.

U Kurfürstendamm. C4. Grunerstr. 20.

S+U Alexanderplatz. F3 T: 030.27583926.

Friedrichstr. 58. T: 40744747. U Stadtmitte. E3

The Trüffelschwein man is never overdressed – he simply looks good, with a collection of small niche brands from London, Paris, and New York. www. trueffelschweinberlin.com. Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 21. T: 030.70221225. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Zalando Outlet The popular online shopping fashion market has a large outlet store in Berlin, featuring 1000 square meters of fashion and accessories from the world's top brands, sold at even lower prices. www.zalando.de. Köpenicker Str. 20.

T: 0800.3300996. U Schlesiches Tor. G4

SHOES & ACCESSORIES AIGNER The Munich label is one of Germany’s most

PING SPE P O CT H S R THE BARGAIN HUNTER

THE DESIGN GURU

Numerous labels cluster around Hackescher Markt. Around nearby Mulackstraße is where many local designers have their boutiques and ateliers.

S Hackescher Markt

THE INDIVIDUAL

Flanked by a towering department store, shopping mall, and multi-storey electronics store, Alexanderplatz attracts masses of shoppers with its big labels and chains.

S+U Alexanderplatz

This Kastanienallee artery leading from Mitte into Prenzlauer Berg is lined with small, independent shops where you’ll discover home décor, design objects, unique souvenirs, and pieces from small fashion labels.

U Rosenthaler Platz

Tell us who you are, we'll tell you

THE ACTIVE SHOPPER

WHERE TO SHOP.

With a total of four shopping malls, including the pleasant Boulevard Berlin, this street in the city’s southwest is a haven for shopping fans.

U Schloßstraße

THE BROWSER THE LUXURY SHOPPER

THE MULTI – TASKER Combine sightseeing with premium shopping along Friedrichstraße. Luxury department stores like Galeries Lafayette rub elbows with high-end boutiques and key sites like the Brandenburg Gate, Gendarmenmarkt, and Checkpoint Charlie.

S+U Friedrichstraße

Presided over by the venerable KaDeWe department store, Kurfürstendamm and Tauentzienstraße have long been one of Berlin’s major luxury shopping strips.

U Kurfürstendamm, U Wittenbergplatz ©ISTOCK

Bergmannstraße is made for browsing, with plentiful fashion, home, and lifestyle shops interspersed with cafés for taking a break.

Visit Marheinekeplatz market hall for gourmet gift ideas.

U Mehringdamm

M

THE SHOPAHOLIC

On Sundays, the Mauerpark flea market teems with bargain hunters. The small design and vintage shops on the adjoining Oderberger Straße, meanwhile, are open every other day of the week.

U Eberswalder Straße

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TH

Wormland

Originally a chain of roadside stores in suburban Japan, this brand quickly became an Asian sensation and has now expanded to trendy urban hubs around the globe. Their Berlin flagship store has three floors of quality basics and fashion for women, men, and children. www.uniqlo.com.

Tauentzienstr. 7. T: 030 29028260.

U Wittenbergplatz. C4; Leipziger Platz 16.

S+U Potsdamer Platz.

E3; Rosenthaler Str. 42; S Hackescher Markt. F3

Wellensteyn

Trüffelschwein

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SHOPPING important leather accessory brands, combining tradition and innovation with luxury classics.

Choose between handbags, belts, and luxury travel luggage, as well as gift items such as corkscrews, keyrings and backgammon boxes. www.aignermunich.com. Kurfürstendamm 50.

T: 030.88683638. U Uhlandstraße. B4

bagatt Milano Bagatt epitomizes the appreciation for beauty for which Italy is known. With its core philosophy of fine Italian craftsmanship, bagatt Milano applies the highest quality standards to its collection of shoes, handbags and accessories. Browse the shelves for contemporary, comfortable looks for everyday wear or elegant heels.

Email: bagattberlino@gmail.com.

Bikini Berlin: Budapester Str. 38–50.

T:030 25759777. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Boots & Shoes With their air-cushioned sole, lace-up style, and yellow stitching, the popular Doc Martens boots launched in the UK in 1960 was based on a prototype by German army doctor Klaus Märtens.

Check out many designs and colors of the famous boots at Boots & Shoes, from the classic 1460 model, to shiny blue, or floral print. Ballerinas, booties, clothing, and accessories round off the offering. www.drmartens.com. Dircksenstr. 49.

T: 0800.2070700. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Dainese Not only one of the most trusted names in motorcycle protective gear, Dainese is also the place to get kitted out for equestrian and winter sports. Their famed specialty is stylish, sleek, Italian-designed motorcycle wear such as jackets, boots, and gloves, bringing together durable, timeless leather with modern materials such as Kevlar and titanium. www.dainese.com.

Hohenzollerndamm 12. T: 03029672222.

U Hohenzollernplatz. C4

Falke Flagship Store This legwear shop caters to both men and women with all kinds of socks, stockings, tights, knee-highs, and anything that will keep your legs warm. They also have a good selection of sports accessories and knitwear, as well as delightful kids’ socks. www.falke.com. Kurfürstendamm 36.

T: 030.88553565. U Uhlandstraße. B4; Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Str. 12. T: 030.20647995.

U Mohrenstraße. E3

Michael Kors The New York-based designer Michael Kors is known for his ready-to-wear fashion and luxury accessories – bags, watches, jewelry, shoes, and other award-winning designs. www.michaelkors. com. Kurfürstendamm 219. T: 030.81825760.

U Uhlandstr. C4; Rosenthaler Str. 37.

T: 030.24088690. F2

New Era Flagship Store Looking for a new cap? This is the largest and fastest growing headwear producer in the world.

There are more than 1000 styles over two floors, ranging from the classic baseball cap to modern designs, including their bestseller 59fifty, popular with the skater and hip hop crowd. www.neweracap.com. An der Spandauer Brücke 7.

T: 030.27890578. Hackescher Markt. F2

Unützer Elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacturing are what sets Unützer apart from many other shoe brands. Founded 25 years ago, this

Golden Dreams at the Adlon "Jewellery should be as unique as the woman who wears it". This was the vision of jeweler Gerhard Leicht when he established Juwelier Leicht over 50 years ago. Berlin's branch of this exclusive jewelry boutique is located in the well-known Hotel Adlon right next to Brandenburg Gate and carries Juwelier Leicht's own collection, as well as a wide range of exclusive German brands, such as Wellendorff, Chopard, Glashütte Original, Nomos Glashütte, Franck Muller, Corum, and Omega. Juwelier Leicht also offers a select range of international brands, such as Ole Lynggaard, Marco Bicego, and more.

Unter den Linden 77, T: 030 2290212. www.leicht-jewellery.com

shoe label stands for elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacture. The boots, pumps, and ballerinas are all made in a small town near Venice according to the century-old Italian tradition. www.unuetzer.com. Giesebrechtstr. 10.

T: 030.88916710. U Uhlandstraße. C4

Volker Lang The success story of Volker Lang started in 1983 in Hamburg, when he designed his first handbag. A functional, pure look with playful details define his style, resulting in timeless purses, handbags, and other accessories loved by their owners for years and beyond the dictates of fashion.

Mulackstr. 37. T: 030.284937004. www.volker-lang-accessoires.de.

U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

JEWELRY & WATCHES

Boutique Cartier Founded in Paris in 1847, Cartier is one of the world’s most esteemed designers of luxury jewelry and watches, with a long history of sales to royalty and celebrities. www.cartier.de. Kurfürstendamm 188–189. T: 030.8867060. U Uhlandstraße, U Adenauerplatz. B4

Bucherer

With a dedicated Rolex and Patek Philippe corner, and a wide range of other prestigious watch brands, as well as exclusive jewelry creations, the Bucherer store provides customers with first-class service and a unique shopping experience. www.bucherer.com. Friedrichstr.

176-179. T: 030.2041049.

The first set of traffic U Französische lights in Europe was Straße E3; Kurfürstendamm 45. installed in 1924 on T: 030.8804030. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Potsdamer Platz.

Aris Diamond Since 1906, ARIS has been specializing in diamond jewelry, delivering everything from pendants, necklaces, and earrings, to fabulous engagement rings. Got a special occasion coming up? Check up their new shop in the Mall of Berlin for refined pieces. www.arisdiamond.com. www.mallofberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 12.

U Mohrenstraße. E3

Bodo Dilg Goldschmiede A master in the jewelry field, Bodo Dilg creates unique pieces of contemporary jewelry using gold and precious stones against a backdrop of historical stucco and cement tiles.

An essential stop for soon to wed partners. www.bodo-dilg.de. Grolmanstr. 30/31.

T: 030 88675355.

U Uhlandstraße. B4 www.wheretraveler.com 29

SHOPPING

SIZING GUIDE SHOES US

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Dress by Marc Cain, Kurfurstendamm 69.

Juwelier Leicht im Hotel Adlon This jewelry shop has its own manufactory and also carries luxurious brands like Omega, Glashütte Original, and more. Check out Leicht’s marvelous creations, each uniquely manufactured with gold and precious stones. www.leicht-jewellery.com.

Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2290212.

S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

ROLEX Boutique One of the most famous brands in luxury, Rolex has been making wristwatches since 1905. First created in England, the company soon moved to Switzerland, and its perfect timepieces are recognized worldwide as the ultimate symbol of elegance and refinement. www.rolex.de. www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184.

T: 030.55669010. U Uhlandstraße. E2

Schmelter Juwelen Pearls and diamonds define this jewelry store near the Ku’damm. Have a look at the marvelous collection of Schoeffel pearl colliers, many of which are made with exquisite Tahitian pearls. www.schmelter-juwelen.de. Uhlandstr. 167-168.

T: 030.8815671. U Uhlandstraße. B/C4

BEAUTY & WELLNESS Babor Specializing in beauty driven by science, Babor creates skincare solutions for every woman’s unique needs. Top-sellers at the flagship store include vitamin-rich skin serums and deluxe foundations with a lifting effect. www.babor.de. Französische Str. 48.

T: 030. 20622222. U Französische Straße. E3

Flaconi A large perfumerie carrying all the best perfume brands as well a myriads of products for the skin and hair as well as makeup. www.flaconi.de.

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Leipziger Str. 36. T: 030.20674990.

U Mohrenstraße. E3

Frau Tonis Parfum The perfume boutique offers scents inspired by the city, like Pure Violet, originally composed for Marlene Dietrich. Take a scent test to find the fragrances that suit you best or ask customize your own bottle. www.frau-tonis-parfum.com.

Zimmerstr. 13. T: 030.20215310.

U Kochstraße. E4

Liquidrom Treat yourself to a blissful evening, with an outdoor spa, a thermal bath with mood lighting and underwater music, and five different saunas. Best of all are the infusions which take place in the Finnish sauna on the hour, or the honey and salt body scrubs. www.liquidrom-berlin.de. Möckernstr. 10.

T: 030.258007820. U Möckernbrücke. E4

Nivea Haus Nivea is Latin for snow white. At the flagship store of this German beauty powerhouse you can browse the entire product range, sign up for a consultation, or get a quick massage or facial. www.nivea.de/Haus.

Unter den Linden 28. T: 030.20456160.

S+U Friedrichstraße, U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Parfumsalon An exclusive perfume boutique that has been offering fragrances for more than five decades.

The shop's selection include rarities and special aromas, all hand-picked by owner and perfume expert Mario Worms. www.parfumsalon.de.

Uhlandstr. 173-174. T: 030.8827306. E3

Shan Rahimkhan Boasting guests such as Leonardo DiCaprio and Jodie Foster, this concept store combines beauty with a sense of luxury. The Ku’damm salon also features deluxe cosmetic cubicles, a kitchen serving

4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10-11 12-13 14-15

4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10 12 13

110cm 116-122 128-134 140-146 152-158 164-170

organic meals, and personal training sessions with Olympic swimmer Micha Ostergaard. www.shanrahimkhan.de. Markgrafenstr. 36.

T: 030.2067890. U Hausvogteiplatz. E3; Kurfürstendamm 195. T: 030.88717900. U Uhlandstraße. C4

CHILDREN Finkid The philosophy of this Finnish brand is unrestricted freedom of movement and the pleasure of discovery.

Their simple design and functionality supports this principle. Characteristic of their style is the funny pointed hat jacket with removable inner lining. www.finkid.de. Leonhardtstr. 24. T: 030.31016350.

S Charlottenburg. A4

Lego Store Assembled Lego models surround the entirety of this flagship store. There is also an interactive play area, a pick-a-brick wall where you can select individual Lego bricks from a diverse range of colors and shapes, and Lego education classes. www.lego.com. Tauentzienstr. 20. T: 030.21016222.

U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Steiff Galerie in Berlin Founded in 1880 by Margarete Steiff, this stuffed animal company has developed into an international brand of quality cuddles. In 1902 she created a bear for U.S. president Theodore “Teddy” Roosevelt; since then our kids’ cuddly bears are called teddy bears. www.steiff.de. Kurfürstendamm 38–39.

T: 030.88625006. U Uhlandstraße. B4

HOME DÉCOR Depot What began over 60 years ago as a Christmas decorations shop has developed into a trendsetting provider of gifts, furnishings, and decorative

SHOPPING items. Depot has four collections per year and is known for its versatility. www.depot-online.com.

Kurfürstendamm 231 (check website for other locations). T: 030.88701924. U Uhlandstraße. C4

Frau Tulpe This fabric store provides inspiration for all textile fans. It has a large range of colorful cotton fabrics, including retro and Japanese patterns, and other sewing accessories. There are also pillow and bag ideas, and classes for the beginner. www.frautulpe.de. Veteranenstr. 19. T: 030.44327865.

U Rosenthaler Platz. E2 / F2

Herrlich Germany’s first concept store for men’s presents. From an old fashioned brush and blade shaving set to a miniature espresso machine for en route, you’ll find fun and creative gift ideas rather than just socks. www.herrlich-berlin.de.

Bergmannstr. 2. T: 030.7845395.

U Gneisenaustraße. E5

Stilwerk Five levels and 52 stores of the most refined interior design producers. Classic to avant-garde items from renowned international manufacturers, such as Bang & Olufsen, Stokke, and Alessi. www.stilwerk.de. Kantstr. 17.

S Savignyplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

around the world awaits sweets fans at this beautiful shop, where the wares are presented in original 1890s wooden display cases from the location’s past life as a pharmacy. www.winterfeldt-schokoladen.de.

Goltzstr. 23. T: 030.23623256.

U Nollendorfplatz, U Eisenacherstraße. D4

VEB Orange

MARKETS

Take a trip back in time. This little store has selected the most beautiful highlights from 1960 and 1970’s East German fashion, furniture, accessories, and with lots of orange. www.veborange.de. Oderbergerstr. 29.

T: 030.97886886.

U Eberswalder Straße. F1

The quiet Suarezstraße in Charlottenburg is the place to go for antiques.

Manufactum Their catalogue enjoys an almost cult-like status for its German language prowess, but better still is to visit the store itself. They collect mainly household and garden goods made with traditional manufacturing methods and materials. www.manufactum.de. Hardenbergstr. 4 (check website for other locations).

T: 030.24033844. U Ernst-Reuter-Platz. B3

Pylones These household products are created to add a spark to our daily lives, filling it with color and fun.

The designers especially like to choose zoomorphic themes, which means that nutcrackers look like cats and watering cans like birds. www.pylones.com.

Kurfürstendamm 225 (check website for other store locations). T: 030.92362488. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Straße des 17. Juni

GOURMET PRODUCTS

The most famous and oldest antique market in Berlin. Besides second-hand items like porcelain, clothing, furniture, books, and records, new handicrafts, and art and design objects are also on offer. 10am–5pm Sat & Sun. www.berliner-troedelmarkt.de. Straße des 17. Juni.

T: 030.26550096.

S Tiergarten. C3 / D3

Fassbender & Rausch

Winterfeldtplatz

This is Berlin’s undisputed temple of chocolate. As if the longest chocolate counter in the world weren’t enough, the shop also features eye-popping displays of chocolate masterpieces, like a model of the Reichstag made from 300 kg of dark chocolate. www.fassbender-rausch.de. Charlottenstr. 60.

T: 030.20458443. U Stadtmitte. E3

Markthalle IX Built in 1891 and one of only three historic market halls remaining in Berlin, Markthalle IX has undergone a revival in recent years, now hosting a farmers’ market every Friday and Saturday from 10am to 6pm. Check the website for other foodie events, like the popular Street Food Thursdays and periodic cheese and sweets markets. www.markthalle9.de.

Eisenbahnstr. 42–43. T: 030.577094661.

U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

Winterfeldt Schokoladen A tempting selection of unique chocolates from all

Many locals come to this weekend market to do their weekly shop for seasonal fruit and vegetables, meats, breads, and cheeses. Others come for the diverse clothing, jewelry, toys, and flowers on offer.

Surrounded by many cafés, it’s also a nice place to meet friends. 8am–4pm Sat. Winterfeldtplatz.

U Nollendorfplatz. D4

ELECTRONICS Sennheiser This German brand stands for innovation in the world of audio electronics, from microphones and speakers to headsets and more. The cuttingedge wireless headphones in particular are prized by pro musicians, DJs, music fans, and gamers alike. Test out all the latest models at the Charlottenburg store. www.sennheiser.com.

Tauentzienstr. 17.

T: 030.23630162.

U Wittenbergplatz. C4

The new bag collection by Cinque, Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12.

www.wheretraveler.com 31

SHOPPING MAPS

ADVERTORIALS

AUDIO EXPERIENCE

Visit us Monday to Saturday 10 am to 8 pm

Sennheiser Store Berlin

Tauentzienstr. 17 - 10789 Berlin S-Bahn/U-Bahn Zoologischer Garten U-Bahn Wittenbergplatz

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BIKINI BERLIN

Bikini Berlin is all about fashion, design and good vibes. The concept shopping mall is renowned for its lovingly curated stores, as well as a number of pop-up boxes where brands can launch new products. Another highlight is the new Kantini food market, serving up culinary delights from various different countries.

Budapester Str. 38–50. T: 030 55496455 www.bikiniberlin.de 32 W H E R E B E R L I N I A P R I L 2 01 8

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SHOP STOP

PARFUMSALON

SENNHEISER STORE

This exclusive perfume boutique has been offering extraordinary fragrances since the 1960s. Mario Worms is an expert in perfume counseling, offering advice on the perfect scent for every client, and the shop's selection includes rare bottles and unusual aromas.

Uhlandstr. 173-174. T: 030 8827306 www.parfumsalon.de

Sennheiser’s first official brand store is located in the heart of Berlin’s City-West.

Experience leadership in audio on 120sq.m., including cutting-edge headphones and microphones. Visit us and take a piece of Sennheiser home.

Open Mon-Sat 10am–8pm.

Tauentzienstr. 17. T: 030 23630162 www.sennheiser.com

SHOPPING MAPS

MALL OF BERLIN

COS

HALLHUBER

MARC CAIN

Reno

SWAROVSKI

Deichmann

Hollister

Marc O’Polo

Replay

Taschenparadies

DESIGUAL

HUGO BOSS

MASSIMO DUTTI

Rich & Royal

THOMAS SABO

Dogo Shoes

Hunkemöller

Mavi

Runners Point

Tom Tailor

Einblick Optik

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MAX & CO.

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TOMMY HILFIGER

Engelsrufer & Co.

Jack & Jones

Mephisto

daughters

TOMMY JEANS

Esprit

JD Sports

Eterna Fashion & Accessories

Kingz

FASHION CLUB

C&A

MANKIND

Calvin Klein Jeans

Airfield

CALZEDONIA

Foot Locker

Casano

Diamond

Change

ARMANI EXCHANGE

CHRIST

G-Star Raw

Backlash

CINQUE

GANT

Bershka

Claire’s

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Clarks Ecco

BREE

Codello

LIEBESKIND

French Connection

TWIN-SET

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Schuh Bode

Undiz

SHOE CITY

Oakley

Levi’s

Fossil

ARIS Art of

MAKEUP

LACOSTE

Triumph

Sarar

Nike NYX PROFESSIONAL

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Fast Forward

Trigema

Salamander

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7 FOR ALL

Muji

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Palmers

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SNIPES

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Liu Jo

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Sportalm Kitzbühel

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Cloppenburg

STRELLSON

H&M

MANGO

Pepe Jeans

Sunglass Hut

Lief!

Frisco Jeans

...and the biggest Foodhall.

WB MALL OF BERLIN.indd 1 LEIPZIGER PLATZ / POTSDAMER PLATZ

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Travel the world at KulturBrauerei: See the best current films from all corners of the globe in their original language version – regularly in our programme! Info and tickets at cinestar.de 34 W H E R E B E R L I N I A P R I L 2 01 8

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SHOPPING

LUXURY BRANDS CHOPARD

AIGNER www.aignermunich.com.

Kurfürstendamm 50. T: 030.88683668.

U Uhlandstraße. B4

BALLY

www.chopard.com Kurfürstendamm 54.

T: 030 70096980.

U Uhlandstraße. B4

ESCADA

www.bally.com. Kurfürstendamm 52.

T: 030.88707688. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BOGGI MILANO www.boggi.it. Kurfürstendamm 195-196.

T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BOSS www.hugoboss.com. Friedrichstr. 165.

T: 030.20613890. U Französische Straße. E3

BUCHERER www.bucherer.com. Friedrichstr. 45.

T: 030.2041049. U Kochstraße. E4

www.escada.com.

Kurfürstendamm 195.

T: 030.88923815. U Uhlandstraße. B4

MAURICE LACROIX www.mauricelacroix.de. Friedrichstr. 166.

T: 030.33024852.

U Französische Straße. E3

MCM www.mcmworldwide.com. Rosenthaler Str. 38. T: 030.28493793.

S Hackescher Markt. F2

ROLEX

BULGARI

www.rolex.com. Kurfürstendamm 184.

T: 030.55669010.

U Adenauerplatz. B4

www.bulgari.com. Kurfürstendamm 190-192. T: 030.8857920.

U Uhlandstraße. B4

WEMPE

EMPORIO ARMANI www.armani.com. Friedrichstr. 169-170.

T: 030 20615660. U Stadtmitte. E3

www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184.

T: 030.8826878.

U Adenauerplatz. B4

shopping arkaden

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A PLACE FOR SHOPPING ARKADEN SHOPS open from Mon—Sat, 10am to 9pm. POTSDAMERPLATZ.DE

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SHOPPING MAPS FRIEDRICHSTRASSE

JOH AN NIS STR .

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ADVERTORIALS

Friedrichstadt-Palast

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AllSaints Superdry

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Französische Str. 48. T: 030 20622222 www.babor-berlin.de

Gerry Weber

SHOP STOP

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COS Massimo Dutti Annette Görtz Store Berlin

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Gucci Galeries Lafayette

Quartier 206 Umasan

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Marina Rinaldi Thomas Sabo MaxMara

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The Q.

Stefanel

MO HR EN ST R. MEISSEN im Hilton Stadtmitte/U2 Gudrun Sjödén

Comptoir des Cotonniers

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Flaconi

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This perfume manufactory has been described as Berlin’s most unique perfumery.

Try classics such as Linde Berlin, or Pure Violet, Marlene Dietrich’s favorite fragrance.

For something more personal, join other scent aficionados from all over the world and create your own, private perfume.

Zimmerstr. 13 (Checkpoint Charlie).

T: 030 20215310 www.frau-tonis-parfum.com

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Marc Cain

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Friedrichstr. 76–78. T: 030 209480. galerieslafayette.de

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Douglas

CH AR LO TT EN

The famous Parisian department store brings French charm and style to Berlin with five floors of fashion, accessories, beauty products and delicacies.

Galeries Lafayette is located in the Quartier 207 where you can also shop at Gucci, Opera‘s, Le Nails, Sathea, Cashmere House, Manon Chocolaterie, La Librairie and Galeries Lafayette Outlet.

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Beauty meets science at this skincare institute. Owner and cosmetics expert Christiane Lingner offers high-level treatments such as deluxe facials, skin analyses, purifying sessions, manicures, pedicures, as well as intensive and strengthening treatments for the gentlemen.

Head to the flagship store for vitamin-rich serums and foundations with a lifting effect.

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Lifesmyle

THE GUIDE | SIGHTSEEING

Family Day In CREDITS: AQUARIUM AND ZOO: © ISTOCK; LABYRINTH KINDERMUSEUM: COURTESY OF LABYRINTH; TROPICAL ISLANDS: COURTESY OF TROPICAL ISLANDS

Happy kids means happy parents, says Annabelle Mallia.

It is always hard to strike the right balance between exploring a new city and keeping the kids entertained, especially on rainy days. Here are my indoor tips for fun days with the whole family, even during the April showers.

Berlin’s Zoo (www. zoo-berlin.de) has one of the biggest fauna collections in the world, much of which can be admired in the warmth of the park's indoor enclosures.

There's a monkey house, indoor hippopotamus pools, a wildcat enclosure, a nocturnal-animal exhibition, and a panda house. The nearby Aquarium features

an amazing collection of underwater creatures including a shark tank, as well as two floors of reptiles, amphibians, and insects.

Located in the heart of the former West, it’s easily combined with a visit to the bombedout Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial church and luxury shopping strip Ku’damm, including a pit stop at KaDeWe’s gourmet food hall for a bite to eat.

Saunas are part of the German culture.

Most places aren’t suitable for kids, but Tropical Islands (www. tropical-islands.de), about an hour away from Berlin, is a swimming and sauna paradise for all.

Housed in a converted zeppelin hangar, the

temperature hovers around 26 degrees Celsius all year round.

At Tempelhof Airport (a former airport now turned into a lively public park) you can visit the historic site of the Berlin Airlift (see page 17), combined with a couple of hours at the Cabuwazi (www.cabuwazi.de) circus tent near the Columbiadamm entrance. Full of trampolines and balancing balls, the circus is open most Saturdays.

Many Berlin museums offer workshops to keep kids busy while you soak up the culture.

A great event is Family Sunday at the Bröhan-Museum (www.broehan-museum. de), situated right next to Charlottenburg Palace. With a different program every month, kids experience the world of art by producing their own mini-masterpieces. For a museum just for kids, make a trip out to the Labyrinth Kindermuseum Berlin (www.labyrinthkindermuseum.de), which reopened last year with a new and completely hands-on theme exploring diversity and multiculturalism. www.wheretraveler.com 37

SIGHTSEEING

MAJOR SIGHTS The “Alex” TV Tower The 368m- (1027ft)-high TV tower of Alexanderplatz can be seen from almost any point in the city and has been iconic of Berlin ever since it was built by the GDR in 1969. The giant steel-clad sphere atop houses a revolving restaurant and café as well as a viewing platform. The elevator ride lasts 40 seconds. Arrive early to avoid lines.

Daily 9am–midnight (Nov–Feb from 10am). €13/8.50. www.tv-turm.de. Panoramastr. 1a.

T: 030.24757537. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Berliner Dom

projects of the time. Computer-guided chime concerts ring daily at noon and 6pm and the building now hosts concerts and intercultural events. Open daily 10am–7pm. € prices vary. www.hkw.de. John-Foster-Dulles-Allee 10.

T: 030.397870. U Bundestag. D3

Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche This church’s bombed-out bell tower has been an anti-war memorial and a symbol of West Berlin ever since its ruins were restored to their present state in 1957. The old church’s ruins now host an exhibition of before and after photos documenting its former splendor and showing the Ku’damm before the bombs. Look up to admire what is left of the old mosaic. Open daily from 9am to 6pm. www. gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. Breitscheidplatz.

T: 030.2185023. U Zoologischer Garten, Kurfürstendamm. C4

The city’s neo-Renaissance cathedral was begun in the late 1700s, finished in 1905, and renovated in simplified form after WWII damage.

Walk up 267 steps for glorious views of the city from the dome, or stay on the Nikolaiviertel and ground floor to gaze at elaborate Knoblauchhaus sarcophagi containing the royal In 1995, artist Christo The Nikolaiviertel is where wrapped up the remains of Hohenzollern family Berlin was born, and the area Reichstag in 100,000 members. Thanks to the church’s still retains its ancient character, sq.m. of polypropylene perfect acoustics and a 7200-pipe although most of the buildings fabric. organ, the Dom is also an important in the narrow medieval alleys are replicas of destroyed originals that concert venue. dated back to the 1200s. The late-Gothic Mon–Sat 9am–8pm, Sun 9am–8pm Nikolaikirche, Berlin’s oldest surviving building, is (winter until 7pm). €7/5. www.berlinerdom.de. now a museum. Other points of interest include Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269119. S Hackescher the Ephraim Palais Museum and the BiedermeierMarkt. E3/F3 style Knoblauchhaus, a 19th-century middleclass townhouse that escaped WWII damage.

Brandenburg Gate Knoblauch Haus: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm.

MUST SEE The definitive Berlin icon, Carl Gotthard www.knoblauchhaus.de. Poststr Langhans’ Neoclassical triumphal arch has witnessed the city’s best and worst moments, from S+U Alexanderplatz. F3 the military parades of the Third Reich to the Wall being raised and torn down. Formerly behind GDR borders, today the gate acts mainly as the backdrop for festivals, New Year’s Eve parties, and tourist snapshots. U Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3

Charlottenburg Palace The summer home of Sophie Charlotte, wife of King Friedrich I of Prussia, reflects the grandeur of the Hohenzollern family. Begun in 1695, the luxury Baroque complex consists of a main building with a central cupola and two side wings, added in later years, that enclose a courtyard. The picturesque park surrounding the castle includes a formal French-style garden, English garden with pond and statues, belvedere, and mausoleum. The castle hosts temporary art and history exhibitions.

Tue–Sun 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm). €12/8. www.spsg.de. Spandauer Damm 20-24.

T: 030.9694200. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Hackesche Höfe An intricate series of interconnected courtyards provides an example of early-19th-century German Secessionist style. The first courtyard is entirely decorated with glazed blue-and-white tiles in geometric designs, while the apartment buildings and narrow, maze-like alleys lined with cafés, shops, and theaters give the Höfe an atmosphere both familiar and fascinating.

Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. S Hackescher Markt. E2/F2

Haus der Kulturen der Welt Dubbed the “pregnant oyster” by locals because of its curvy shape, the Haus der Kulturen der Welt was built as a congress hall in 1956. The building quickly became a symbol of western freedom and creativity, in contrast to East German architectural 38 W H E R E B E R L I N I A P R I L 2 01 8

Potsdamer Platz Before the war, Potsdamer Platz was the city’s beating heart, with department stores, banks, internationally known theaters, dance halls, and cafés. WWII bombs obliterated 80 percent of the square, which was left in limbo for a few years and then enclosed in a no-man’s-land between the Wall and barbed wire fences. The square came back to life in the 1990s as a modern reinterpretation of its original self. Divided in three slices, it includes the Sony building with its central plaza; Daimler City, home to a large shopping mall; and the Manhattan-style Beisheim Center building. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Reichstag and Foster’s Glass Cupola MUST SEE In the last 100 years, the massive neo-Renaissance building, now the seat of German Parliament, has been bombed, set on fire, wrapped by artist Christo, and renovated by Lord Norman Foster. Climb the glass cupola for a 360-degree view of the city, then gaze down at parliament in session.

The plenary hall can be visited only on guided tours.

Cupola: Daily 8am–midnight by appointment only.

Free. Register on website; it is recommended to do so at least three days prior to your visit. Audio tours available. www.bundestag.de. Platz der Republik 1.

T: 030.22732152.

U Bundestag. D3/E3

Siegessäule (Victory Column) The triumphal column on the Straße der 17. Juni, in the middle of Tiergarten park, commemorates victory in the Prusso-Danish war, while the angel on top was added after two further war victories against Austria and France. Daily 9:30am–6:30pm (weekends until 7pm); winter 10am–5pm (weekends until 5:30pm). €3/2. Großer Stern 1.

T: 030.3912961. U Hansaplatz. C3/D3

HISTORIC SITES Asisi’s Wall Panorama Yadegar Asisi created a panorama of divided Berlin, presenting everyday life against the backdrop of the Wall on an imaginary day in the 1980s. The artist's aim was to show how the population came to terms with the situation, and the result gives onlookers a glimpse of East German life. Daily 10am–6pm. €10/4. www.asisi.de. Friedrichstr. 205.

T: 0341.3555340. Kochstraße. E3/E4

Berlin Wall Documentation Center MUST SEE Walk along one of the few surviving stretches of the Berlin Wall in an area of the city where its impact was particularly dramatic, then delve into its storied history at the documentation center. Documents and original radio broadcasts from both East and West chronicle one of Germany’s saddest historical periods. Open-air exhibition: 8am-10pm daily; documentation center: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. Free. www.berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de.

Bernauer Str. 111. Bernauer Straße. E2

Checkpoint Charlie During the Cold War, Checkpoint Charlie was the main gateway between East and West. Shortly after the Wall went up, US and Soviet tanks faced each other on this spot. Today, the crossing point acts primarily as a backdrop for tourist photographs. U Kochstraße, U Stadtmitte. E3/E4

East Side Gallery While West Berliners loved to express their creativity by drawing graffiti and painting on the Wall, East Berliners were never allowed to use the dividing structure as a canvas. To make up for all the artless years, artists from 21 countries were called upon in 1990 to decorate one mile of the Wall's eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery.

Mühlenstraße. S+U Warschauer Straße, S Ostbahnhof. G4

Holocaust Memorial MUST SEE Berlin’s tribute to the victims of the Holocaust is as big as a soccer field and consists of 2711 tombstone-like slabs of equal size and varying heights, placed on uneven ground to convey a sense of claustrophobia and disorientation. The underground information center provides a timeline of Jewish persecution. Accessible 24 hours a day. Free. www.holocaust-mahnmal.de.

Cora-Berliner Straße. T: 030.2639430.

U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Karl-Marx-Allee Berlin’s best example of GDR-era Neorealist architecture is a 90m- (295ft-)wide boulevard built between 1950 and 1960 to provide housing for thousands of residents and to act as a backdrop for military parades. The street quickly became a source of national pride for East Germany, due to its residential tower blocks inspired by Moscow and by Stalin’s ideal style: nationalistic in form but socialist in content. The boulevard is an important architectural showcase.

U Weberwiese, Strausberger Platz. F3/G3

Stasi Prison Between 1945 and 1989, more than 20,000 people suspected of opposing the East German political system were arrested by the Stasi (secret police) and brought to this custody building. In its first and darkest years, the prison’s cellars, known as “the

submarine,” were used to inflict psychological torture on the inmates, while the relatively more humane cells are on the upper floors, next to a seemingly never-ending corridor lined with interrogation rooms. Tours in English on Wed, Sat, and Sun at 2:30pm in winter, daily at 11:30am and 2:30pm in summer. €6/3. en.stiftung-hsh.de.

Genslerstr. 66. T: 030.98608230. S Landsberger Allee, then Tram M5 to Freienwalder Str., then 10-minute walk. Off Map

Topographie des Terrors MUST SEE On the site of the former headquarters of the SS and the Third Reich’s most important offices, this permanent exhibition recounts the tragic history of Nazi forced labor, focusing on the central institutions of the SS and Third Reich police and the crimes they committed throughout Europe.

A segment of the Wall runs along the grounds.

Daily 10am–8pm. Free. www.topographie.de.

Niederkirchnerstr. 8.

T: 030.2545090. U Kochstraße. E4

Tränenpalast (Palace of Tears) Until 1990, the departure hall of the Friedrichstraße station was also a border crossing for West Berliners on their way home after visiting relatives and friends in the East. The many painful farewells brought locals to rename the building the “palace of tears.” The permanent exhibition Border Experience: Everyday Life in Divided Germany recounts the effects of the border on German residents of the time. Tue–Fri 9am–7pm (Sat–Sun until 6pm). Free. www.hdg.de. Reichstagufer 17.

T: 030.46777790. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

KIDS & FAMILIES Berlin Dungeon Much like the London Dungeon, the Berlin Dungeon provides a terrifying interactive journey through the city's dark past via a sometimes-spooky, actor-led experience.

Visitors are taken through attractions such as the old library of Berlin, a plague-infected street, a torture chamber, a secret court, and more. Not recommended for young children.

Daily 10am–6pm (winter weekends until 5pm). €20.50/12.30(discount when booking online).

Under-14s must be accompanied by adult.

Combined LEGOLAND, Madame Tussauds, and Sea Life tickets available. www.thedungeons.com. Spandauer Str. 2.

S+U Hackescher Markt. F3

Berlin Zoo and Aquarium MUST SEE One of the city’s main attractions and the oldest zoo in Germany includes pavilions that provide ample indoor space, making the venue suitable for rainy days. The zoo boasts the largest number of species and total animal residents in the world. The aquarium, one of the largest in Europe, features large tanks with piranhas, sharks, and alligators. Daily 9am–6:30pm. Zoo or aquarium: €14.50/7.50, under-4s free. Combined Zoo-Aquarium ticket: €20/10. www.aquarium-berlin.de, www.zoo-berlin.de Hardenbergplatz 8. T: 030.254010.

S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

The Power Of Books

©ISTOCK

Let‘s go up!

On 10 May 1933, the Nazis, with the help of many university students, burned 20,000 books they deemed as “un-German” on a pyre on Bebelsplatz, across from Humboldt University. Works by Einstein, Heinrich Heine, Karl Marx, and many other authors went up in flames. Artist Micha Ullmann’s memorial, called the Sunken Library, symbolizes the loss with a whitewashed empty library standing under street level but visible from above. To commemorate this infamous event, every year in late April the Stadtlesen reading event brings thousands of books to this very square, encouraging passers-by to lie down on the comfy cushions and spend some time reading under the sky. Stop by from 26 to 29 April, pick a book, and take in the power of literature.

Towering 368m above Berlin, the TV Tower dominates the city’s skyline like no other building. Plan your visit for the observation deck or the revolving restaurant “Sphere” now and avoid the queues – book your Fast Track Ticket online.

Berlin TV Tower – simply unforgettable!

www.tv-turm.de www.wheretraveler.com 39

SIGHTSEEING

THE PERFECT

- BERLIN WEEKEND -

Berliners definitely know how to make the most out of every weekend.

Follow our guide to join them with two full days of food, fun, entertainment, and culture.

SATURDAY SUNDAY -----------------------------------------------12:30pm: Head on foot to Museum Island, enjoying the walk through Monbijoupark and along the Spree River.

Once there, check out the Ancient Egyptian collection at the Neues Museum, including the iconic bust of Nefertiti, or admire classical sculptures at the Bode Museum.

11am: Indulge in a long brunch at Russian-Jewish restaurant Pasternak (Knaackstr. 22–24, www. restaurant-pasternak.de), where the loaded buffet includes things like blini pancakes filled with creamy cheese, devilled eggs with caviar, and smoked fish.

--------------------------------------1:30pm: It’s a pleasant walk from there to the popular flea markets at Arkonaplatz and Mauerpark, which are great for antiques, retro knick-knacks, handcrafts, and people watching.

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2:30pm: After a quick bite at Monsieur Vuong (Alte Schönhauser Str. 46, www.monsieurvuong.de), one of the most popular Vietnamese restaurants in the city, do a little shopping around one of the city’s best boutique districts, browsing around Mulackstraße, Alte Schönhauser Straße, and Weinmeisterstraße.

3pm: From Mauerpark, head down the road to the Berlin Wall Memorial, where you can explore a moving monument to the Wall’s victims (Bernauer Str. 111, www.berliner-mauergedenkstaette.de).

----------------------------------------5pm: Ride the elevator to the top of the famed TV Tower at Alexanderplatz and for a drink at sunset.

-----------------------------------4pm: Take the S-Bahn to Tiergarten for coffee and cake at lovely Café am Neuen See (Lichtensteinallee 2, www.cafeamneuensee.de), then take a scenic stroll through the park.

----------------------------------------8pm: After freshening up, head out to super-chic Tausend (Schiffbauerdamm 11, www. tausendberlin.com). Restaurant, bar, and club in one, it’s the perfect spot to enjoy great Asian-fusion cuisine and cocktails and then dance into the night.

40 W H E R E B E R L I N I A P R I L 2 01 8

-------------------------------------7:30pm: At the edge of Tiergarten is the 25hours Hotel – head up to the penthouse for a fresh, Israeli-Mediterranean dinner at NENI, inclusive of gorgeous views over the city.

©ISTOCK; DISTRIKT COFFEE COURTESY OF DISTRIKT COFFEE; NENI COURTESY OF 25HOURS HOTELS

10am: Grab a table at Distrikt Coffee in Mitte (Bergstr. 68), where buttermilk pancakes, poached eggs, and great coffee will get the day off to the right start.

SIGHTSEEING

also available. www.visitsealife.com.

Spandauer Str. 3. S Hackescher Markt, S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

POTSDAM Sanssouci MUST SEE The sumptuous Rococo castle of Potsdam's Sanssouci was commissioned in 1745 by Frederick the Great, who wanted "a place to be without cares." The king of Prussia employed the finest architects of the day to design the Baroque park, the Schloß placed above terraced vineyards, the more sober New Palace, and a few other pavilions scattered in the park. Daily 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm); Mon closed. €15/11. www.spsg.de. An der Orangerie 1, Potsdam.

T: 0331.9694200. S Potsdam or regional train from Zoologischer Garten to Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

TOURS & WALKS Berlinagenten

Pretty In Pink What lovelier harbinger of spring than frilly, fluffy, gorgeously pink cherry blossoms?

Every April, cherry trees erupt into bloom across Berlin, a beautiful sight that also has a beautiful story behind it. In 1990, the Japanese TV-Asahi network ran a fundraising campaign – raising 140 million yen, around 1 million Euros – to send cherry trees to Berlin. The trees, a cherished national symbol in Japan, were extended as a gesture of goodwill and friendship to the reunited German capital. More than 9000 Japanese cherry trees were planted, primarily along the Mauerweg – the path that the Berlin Wall once cut through the city. To admire the pink blossoms this month, one symbolic spot is S-Bahn Bornholmer Straße station in Pankow. The East Berlin border crossing at this bridge was the first one opened on 9 November, 1989, and more than 300 cherry trees line this stretch of the Mauerweg trail today. For more blossom worship, head to the Gärten der Welt (Gardens of the World, www.gruen-berlin.de) in Marzahn on 15 April for their annual cherry blossom festival, complete with Japanese performances and even a costume contest. For more details, visit hanamifest.org.

Botanischer Garten This large park was designed in the Romantic English style, with hills, lakes, and pretty greenhouses. There is a palm house and a whole section dedicated to exotic plants, including orchids, cacti, and carnivorous plants.

Open daily 9am–ca. one hour before sunset.

Museum closes at 6pm. €6/3.

Currywurst Museum Learn about Berlin’s most famous street food at this small but entertaining museum. Delve into Currywurst history, discover the secrets of its yellow sauce in the "spice chamber," and watch movies starring the delicious sausage. Daily 10am–8pm. €11/7, under-6s free. www.currywurstmuseum.de.

Schützenstr. 70. T: 030.88718647. U Kochstraße. E4

©ISTOCK

Domäne Dahlem City Farm A real farm in the Berlin suburbs, with a manor house from the 1600s, boasts farm grounds that are still in use, complete with all the usual barnyard animals. There’s also a small exhibition of ancient agricultural tools and a Saturday-morning farmers’ market. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm in summer. Farm: Free except during special events. Museum:

€3/1.50. www.domaenedahlem.de. Königin-LuiseStr. 49. T: 030.6663000. U Dahlem Dorf. Off Map

Madame Tussauds Have your picture taken with Angela Merkel, Albert Einstein, One Direction, or a host of other famous names in entertainment and politics.And, yes, there's even a wax Adolf Hitler, depicted as a little man standing in despair in his bunker during his final days. Daily 10am–7pm (Aug until 8pm). €23.50/18.50, discounts if you book online.

Combined Berlin Dungeon, LEGOLAND, and Sea Life tickets available. www.madametussauds.com.

Unter den Linden 74. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Sea Life & AquaDom Dazzling clownfish, scary sharks, crawling spider crabs, and lovely seahorses are just some of the 5,000 creatures inhabiting this small but interesting aquarium. Discover the ethereal dance of the jellyfish and observe the eagle rays on your way to the Aquadom, a 16-m-tall cylindrical tropical fish tank that can be viewed from a slow elevator. Daily 10am–7pm. €17.50/12.50 (discounts when booking online). Under-3s free. Combined tickets with Madame Tussauds, Berlin Dungeon, and Legoland

These luxury tour agents specialize in “urban lifestyle guidance,” introducing their clients to exclusive locations, people, shops, and clubs.

Offerings include a “Pimp Me Up” spa and makeover tour, culinary experiences, private house visits, limo tours, and – for an authentic urban experience – a graffiti workshop.

From €300. www.berlinagenten.com.

Bornholmer Str. 4. T: 030.43720701.

Berliner Unterwelten (Underground Tours) Since 1997, the Berlin Underworlds Association has been offering regular tours of underground structures and subterranean complexes that are otherwise inaccessible. Cold War nuclear shelters, Hitler’s underground fortress, escape routes to the West, and WWII bunkers are just some of the adventures on offer. From €10. www.berliner-unterwelten.de. Brunnenstr. 105.

T: 030.49910517.

CooLTourings Segway Tours Covering Berlin’s top 20 sightseeing highlights, CooLTourings takes individual visitors or large groups on an exciting ride aboard a Segway, a fun and fast way to explore the city. www.seg-berlin-ways.de. T: 030.26321381.

Trabi World For a quintessential Berlin tour experience, hop inside real Trabants, the iconic cars of the former GDR. Visitors drive their personal Trabis, while, via the car’s radio, the group leader provides historical and quirky facts. Three different tours available. €30-50. www.trabi-world.de. Zimmerstr.

97. T: 030.30201030.orate one mile of the Wall's eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery. Mühlenstraße.

S+U Warschauer Straße, S Ostbahnhof. G4

RIVER TRIPS Reederei Riedel Fourteen ships take visitors on 1-, 1.5-, and 3-hour cruises of the city’s canals and rivers. www.reederei-riedel.de. T: 030.67961470.

Stern und Kreis Schiffahrt Choose from 30 different boat tours along the city’s rivers and canals, including bus-boat combination tours of the Brandenburg region. buchung.sternundkreis.de. T: 030.5363600. www.wheretraveler.com 41

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES | THE GUIDE

Priceless Culture With a free afternoon and an itch to learn something, Serene Tseng set out to find the most interesting free-entry museums in Berlin.

Explore the city, learn something new, or dive into an artist's vision of peace at Berlin's numerous free museums.

When young pacifist Ernst Friedrich founded his Anti-War Museum in 1925, he had no idea the city would have to soon endure so much destruction, and could not imagine it would later be divided by a Wall.

Experiencing WWI had been enough for him to desire the end of all wars. In its almost 100 years of history, the Anti-War Museum (Bruesseler Str. 21, open 4–8pm) has closed down and reopened a few times, but today it is led by Friedrich’s grandson, who curates photographs, documents, and objects from the two World Wars, including an air-raid shelter and chemical and biological warfare agents. A large world map marks the sites of the ongoing conflicts of today.

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In our modern times, electricity is often taken for granted. The Energy Museum (Teltowkanalstr. 9, www.energie-museum. de), located in a former power plant, explores the magic behind power generation and encourages visitors to control a part of a power plant startup process. The museum doesn’t have fixed hours, so book ahead.

Step back in time and see how everyday East Germans lived at Museumswohnung (Hellersdorfer Str. 179, Sun 2–4pm). To keep up with the East German housing crisis, prefabricated flats such as this model apartment were built in a mere 18 hours in the 1970s. Inside, all furnishings and props make it feel as though the tenants have just stepped out. Everything right down to the books, knick-knacks, and wallpaper are authentic from East German homes.

For the younger ones in your party, the Youth Museum in Schöneberg (www. museen-tempelhof-scheneberg.de, Hauptstr. 40-42) is the perfect interactive place to experience Berlin’s history. Walking through 14 rooms, young visitors meet the capital’s multicultural population and hear their stories. On another floor, open the numerous crates filled with historical objects to learn how they shaped the lives of Berliners in the past.

Finally, round out your day with a bit of tranquility at the Museum of Silence (www. museum-der-stille.de), where peace, quiet, and contemplation is the mantra. Founded by artist Nikolai Makarov in 1994 while Berlin was undergoing immense change, the muted interior and carpeted floor invite visitors to reflect and escape the hectic outside world amid calming artwork.

JUGENDMUSEUM SCHÖNEBERG: JEANETTE KNIESEL AND COURTESY OF JUGENDMUSEUM; MUSEUMSWOHNUNG: COURTESY OF STADT UND LAND; WIND POWER: © ISTOCK

Top left and left: the Youth Museum in Schöneberg; Above: wind turbines; This photo: a room inside the Museumswohnung.

Altes Museum Berlin’s collection of classical antiquities, housed inside a breathtaking Neoclassical building. Take in the mosaic floor of Hadrian’s villa, a wealth of Greek sculptures, and a number of Etruscan and Roman finds. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum.

Am Lustgarten. T: 030.266424242.

S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Alte Nationalgalerie A splendorous collection of 19th-century art. To 18 Mar: Rodin - Rilke - Hofmannsthal. Man and His Genius.

Celebrating the 100th anniversary of Rodin's death with his masterpieces. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6 with exhibition, €10/5 museum only. www.smb.museum.

Bodestr. 1–3. T: 030.266424242.

S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Bauhaus Archiv The avant-garde building designed by Walter Gropius is home to documents, photographs, and models illustrating the Bauhaus philosophy, which combines artistic beauty with architectural functionality. To 29 Apr: Final Weeks “The Open House”. Experience the museum before it undergoes expansion! Wed–Mon 10am–5pm.

Sat–Mon €8/5, Wed–Fri. €7/4. www.bauhaus.de.

Klingelhöferstr. 14. T: 030.25400278.

U Nollendorfplatz. D4 An extensive collection of Old Masters’ paintings, a section dedicated to ancient coins, and many works of Roman and Byzantine art adorn the museum’s impressive interior, built by Ernst von Ihne in 1904. To 31 Jan: Two Camels and a Saint. The Antique Pilgrimage Site of Abu Mina in Egypt. An exploration of the ancient pilgrimage site. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.smb.museum. Am Kupfergraben.

T: 030.266424242. U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Starting in 1966, collector Karl Bröhan amassed hundreds of Art Nouveau and Art Deco objects and various paintings from the Berlin Secessionist movement. Browse through pieces of furniture, housewares, ceramics, and glassware from this fascinating artistic period. To 22 Apr: Ceramics and its Dimensions. Shaping the Future. Exploring the impact and ubiquity of ceramics through the ages. To 17 Jun: Berlin Realism. Käthe Kollwitz to Otto Dix. Berlin Secession artists critique Berlin's social situation from the 1890-1930s.

U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

l museum Internatiotna exhibition permanen

DDR Museum Learn about daily life in the former East Germany at this hands-on museum. Closets filled with GDR (DDR in German) fashion and a Trabant (the GDR car) are just some of the items on display, while photographs illustrate Communist habits, such as collectively potty-training babies or going on nudist holidays. Mon–Sun 10am–8pm, Sat until 10pm. €7/4. www.ddr-museum.de.

Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 1. T: 030.847123731.

S Hackescher Markt, U Alexanderplatz. E3

Deutsches Historisches Museum MUST SEE Learn about the milestones in German history from the Roman occupation of the Germanic areas to the present day. To 15 Apr: 1917.

Revolution. Russia and Europe. Exploring the 100 years since the Russian Revolution and the changes it brought forth. To 26 Aug: Saving – History of a German Virtue. Exploring how saving became a behavior linked to Germany. Daily 10am–6pm. €8/4 (under-18s free). www.dhm.de. Unter den Linden 2.

T: 030.203040. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Deutsches Technikmuseum MUST SEE At the museum for all things technology, the old locomotives and aviation rooms are the most popular attractions, while a Rosinenbomber, a 1948 Berlin Airlift aircraft, is mounted on the museum’s roof. A hands-on section allows kids to conduct experiments. To 31 Jul: Cars from the Depot on Show. Showing more

(worth

2,80€)

open daily:

Jan - Jun 12 p.m. - 8 p.m.

Jul - Aug 10 a.m. - 8 p.m.

Sep - Dec 12 p.m. - 8 p.m.

(24th December closed)

Last entrance: 7 p.m.

Potsdamer Platz entrance: Leipziger Platz 7

2707

3360

Infos: 0700 - 325 423 75**| Tickets: www.DaliBerlin.de

(**0,14€/ Min. from a landline, mobile communications vary, max 0,42€/ Min.) *only in combination with the entrance fee. Cannot be combined with other offers.

Valid until May, 31st 2018.

With over 450 exhibits from private collections this permanent exhibition provides general insight into Dalí’s virtuous mastery in almost all art techniques in Berlin’s lively city centre.

www.daliberlin.de

Take a walk through

Berlin’s history

The Living Museum Two vibrantly-dressed, smiling figures walk by. Are they actors? Artists? Yes! Dressed in vibrant outfits and always smiling, the artist couple known as Eva & Adele has been creating art together since 1991.

In public, the duo always appears together with matching outfits, their everyday existence a performance pushing the boundaries of performance and existence. In their words, they are a museum wherever they go. Outlook: Eva & Adele – L'Amour du Risque, showing at the me Collectors Room (p. 46) and co mprised of paintings, video, sculptures, photography, and costume design, explores the risk and love the two share in their continuous performance and existence together as artist partners.

From 27 April.

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EVA & ADELE, WINGS I PERFORMANCE COSTUME, 1992, VINYL UND STOFF ∏ EVA & ADELE UND VG BILD-KUNST, BONN 2018, PHOTO HANS SCHRÖDER

Bode Museum

Bröhan Museum

Hômmage á S. Dalí by DaVial

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

A History Drive-Thru Fans of cars and roaring engines, don’t miss the special exhibition at the Deutsches Technikmuseum (p. 43), titled Cars From The Depot On Show. Admire 29 historical cars from the museum’s 200-strong collection, some magnificently restored and others bearing fascinating signs of wear. The museum’s collection of vintage cars produced from 1923 to 1987 shows not only the development and innovation of the automobile industry, but also interesting details of political history. During the beginning of the Cold War, BMW, headquartered in Munich, still had its production facilities in the East German city of Eisenach, which led to the creation of the EMW 340, a carbon copy of pre-war BMWs! Until 31 July.

Jewish Museum MUST SEE Daniel Libeskind’s architectural jewel, shaped as a deconstructed Star of David, explores millennia of German Jewish history, including the alternating glories and persecutions of the community. To 30 Apr: Welcome to Jerusalem.

An exploration of Jerusalem through time and religions. Daily 10am–8pm, Mon until 10pm. €8/3. www.jmberlin.de. Lindenstr. 9-14. T: 030.25993300.

U Hallesches Tor, U Kochstraße. E4

Märkisches Museum Documents, photos, books, and weapons walk visitors through 750 years of Berlin history in a neo-Gothic setting. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €6/4 (under-18s free; free entry first Wed of month). www.stadtmuseum.de. Am Köllnischen Park 5.

T: 030.24002162. U Märkisches Museum. F3

Martin-Gropius-Bau MUST SEE One of the city’s best art and photography exhibition spaces and an important example of early 20th-century architecture, the

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imposing building combines Italian Renaissance elements with local features, such as mosaics of allegorical figures. From 20 Apr: Ana Mendieta.

Using the female form to explore body art, the environment, and nature. Wed–Mon 10am–7pm.

Prices vary by exhibition. www.gropiusbau.de.

Niederkirchnerstr. 7. T: 030.254860.

U Kochstraße. E4

Menschen Museum

€10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 1.

T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Museum of Musical Instruments A fascinating collection of ancient and modern musical instruments, including bagpipes, harpsichords, and instruments once owned by celebrities. Check the website for the weekly demonstrations of the most impressive musical machines, such as a silent film-era cinema organ.

Open Tue, Wed, Fri 9am–5pm, Thu 9am–8pm, Sat & Sun 10am–5pm. €6/3 (under 18s free). www.sim.spk-berlin.de. Tiergartenstr. 1.

T: 030.254810.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

The internationally popular touring exhibition Body Worlds showcased anatomist Gunther von Hagens’ plastination process, which preserves body parts and reveals their inner structures. The Berlin has more Museum of Photography permanent Berlin exhibition shows museums than rainy Diverse and comprehesive exhibitions 200 body parts amd 20 whole-body days per year. curated from the Berlin Art Library’s preparations, focusing on specific vast photographic collection are organs and diseases. Daily 10am–7pm. housed in a Neoclassical 1909 building www.memu.berlin. Panoramaplatz 1. built for the Prussian army’s officer corps, S+U Alexanderplatz. F3 whose lower two floors are occupied by the Helmut Newton Foundation. From 20 Apr: Museum Berggruen Image Spaces: Biology and Building. Exploring the MUST SEE A can’t-miss for Picassophiles. The relationship between biology, technology, and Spanish painter is the star of this Charlottenburg architecture. To 3 Jun: Sigrid Neubert. Photographs: museum, which boasts dozens of rooms filled with Architecture and Nature. A retrospective showcasing his paintings. The collection encompasses 75 years Neubert's crisp and high-contrast images. To 13 works by Matisse, Klee, Giacometti, Van Gogh, May: Guy Bourdin. Image Maker / Helmut Newton.

A Gun for Hire / Angelo Marino. Another Story. The Cézanne, and many more. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm.

COURTESY OF TECHNIKMUSEUM; HTTP://SDTB.DE/TECHNIKMUSEUM/PRESSE/2769/

than 200 cars, from 1923-1987. To 2 Sep: Seamarks!

Highlights of Orientation Along Germany's Coasts.

A presentation of how seafarers found their direction on the sea. Mon–Fri 9am–5:30pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €8/4. www.sdtb.de.

Trebbiner Str. 9. T: 030.902540.

U Möckernbrücke, U Gleisdreieck. E4

trio's legacy and mastery shown together for the first time. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum.

Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.266424242. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3–C4

Museum für Naturkunde Home to the world’s largest dinosaur skeleton, the natural history museum also features extensive collections of shells, insects, and prize-winning mounted animal dioramas. To 29 Apr: Art/Nature Intervention Round IV. Investigating the interplay between contemporary art, science, and the public. To 29 Apr: Sielmann! A focus on the lynx, wisent, and beaver, all native wildlife, to celebrate the legendary nature broadcaster Heinz Sielmann's would-be 100th birthday. Tue–Fri 9:30–6pm, Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3. www.naturkundemuseumberlin. Invalidenstr. 43. T: 030.20938591.

U Naturkundemuseum. E2

Neues Museum MUST SEE The 3300-year-old bust of Queen Nefertiti is the museum’s top attraction. Examine a world-famous Egyptian collection that includes many important papyruses, while hundreds of artifacts relate early human history. Badly damaged during WWII and left abandoned until the 1980s, the museum reopened in 2009. From 27 Apr: Margiana. A Bronze Age Kingdom in Turkmenistan.

Objects from the ancient kingdom, shown for the first time outside of Turkmenistan. To 29 Sep: The Crown of Kerch. Treasures from the Dawn of European History. Featuring gold jewelry from the Migration Period found near the Black Sea. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.neues-museum.de. Bodestr. 1-3.

T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Pergamon Museum

A world of exhibitions

One of Berlin’s main attractions, the Pergamon houses the outcome of Germany’s early-20thcentury archeology excavations. The imposing Ishtar Gate of Babylon with its glazed blue bricks Myletus, the reconstructed interiors of an Assyrian world. Altar room closed for restoration through 2019. To 9 Apr: Copy and Mastery. Miniature paintings and calligraphy of the Mogul Empire.

To 15 Apr: Perched. An installation from Felekan Onar. 27 glass swallows symbolize the situation of Syrian refugees in Istanbul. From 20 Apr: A Gallery in a Book. Islamic Albums. Beautiful drawings and calligraphy commissioned by Mogul-era art lovers. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242.

S Hackescher Markt. E3

ART GALLERIES A modern art collection of 5000+ works of German and Eastern European paintings. To 30 Apr: Cyrill Lachauer. What Do You Want Here.

Reconstructions and alternative realities from Lachauer's journey across the US. To 20 Aug: Carsten Nicolai. Straddling the line between visual art and electronic sound. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm. €8/5 (€10/7 during exhibitions). www.berlinischegalerie.de. Alte Jakobstr. 124-128.

T: 030.78902600. U Hallesches Tor. E4

C/O Berlin MUST SEE Contemporary art and photography has finally reopened in the Amerika Haus, which housed the American library during the Cold War era. To 1 July: Irving Penn. Celebrating the photographer’s 100th birthday with over 240

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES used the human body as an expression of the human spirit, challenging the role of sculpture as a representation of mythological or heroic symbolism. The museum displays a wide selection of works and hosts frequent exhibitions.

To 17 Jun: The First Generation. Sculptors of the Berlin Modern. Featuring 60 works from the first generation of independent female sculptors.

Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3. www.georg-kolbe-museum.de.

Sensburger Allee 25. T: 030.3042144.

S Heerstraße. Off Map

Hamburger Bahnhof The permanent collection of this former railway station includes a selection of works from the Friedrich Christian Flick Collection, and the many temporary exhibitions focus on painting and sculpture from the past 50 years, as well as videos, music, and design. From 28 Apr: Hello World. Revisioning a Collection. A critical relook at the Nationalgalerie's western-focused storytelling.

Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €14/7. www.smb.museumInvalidenstr.

50-51. T: 030.266424242. U Naturkundemuseum, S Hauptbahnhof. D2

Liebermann Villa on Lake Wannsee CT L he former summer residence of artist Max Liebermann, co-founder and head of the German Secessionist movement. Before being dismissed and banned by the Nazis in 1933, Liebermann painted around 200 works in this villa, some of which are on display in his studio on the upper floor. €3 plus museum entry. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm (11am–5pm in winter). €7/4 (€6/4 in summer). www.liebermann-villa.de. Colomierstr. 3.

T: 030.80585900.

S Wannsee. Off Map

The exhibition Hello World at the Hamburger Bahnhof Museum of Contemporary Art (this page) focuses on the transnational artistic networks of the 19th century and questions the Eurocentric character of the Nationalgalerie's collections through 120 works. (Pictured: Heinrich Vogeler's Path to the Soviet Union.) featured works. Daily 11am–8pm. €10/5. www.co-berlin.org Hardenbergstr. 22–24.

T: 030.28444160. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Dalí – The Exhibition The permanent exhibit features more than 400 works, most from private collections, by the Surrealist painter, with a focus on drawing, illustration, and film. Dalí fans explore new perspectives of the artist’s life and work.

Daily noon–8pm (10am–8pm in summer). €12.50. www.daliberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 7.

Toll number: 0700.3254237546.

U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Deutsche Bank KunstHalle With an emphasis on paper and photography, the Deutsche Bank’s art collection is a stroll along the timeline of modern art. Every year, the bank pays tribute to young artists by organizing an international prize. To 9 Apr: Fahrelnissa Zeid. A 46 W H E R E B E R L I N I A P R I L 2 01 8

retrospective of Turkish modernist Zeid's work.

Daily 10am–8pm. €4/3. www.deutsche-bankkunsthalle.de. Unter den Linden 13/15.

T: 030.2020930. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Gemäldegalerie – Old Masters Painting Gallery MUST SEE One of the finest collections of European art from the 13th to the 18th centuries.

Lots of Dutch and Flemish painters, including Rembrandt and Vermeer, and a vast collection of Italian Renaissance art, including Botticelli, Titian, and Canaletto. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum.

Matthäikirchplatz 50.

T: 030.266424242.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Georg-Kolbe-Museum An idyllic garden houses the former studio of German Secessionist artist Georg Kolbe, who

Thomas Olbricht created this space to bring together other international art collectors and to organize exhibitions, workshops, and concerts. The upper floor houses his “cabinet of curiosities.”

To 2 Apr: Indigenous Australia: Masterworks from the National Gallery of Australia. Presenting the traditional and modern works of Indigenous Australia. From 27 Apr: Outlook: EVA & ADELE - L'AMOUR DU RISQUE. Presenting the artist couple's multi-medium work in the last 25 years. Tue–Sun noon–6pm. €7/4. www.me-berlin.com. Auguststr. 68. T: 030.86008510.

S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Sammlung Scharf-Gerstenberg The Scharf-Gerstenberg collection houses three floors of works by some of the giants of Surrealism, including Paul Klee, Max Ernst, Salvador Dalí, and René Magritte. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr.

70. T: 030.266424242.

U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Contemporary Art Galleries Salongalerie „Die Möwe“, to 14 Apr: Die Breslauer Kunstakademie. Gerhart Hein und his companions.

Auguststr. 50. www.salongalerie-die-moewe.de; Galerie Helle Coppi, to 14 Apr: Hubertus von der Goltz: Moments in Space and Mélina Mauberret: In the Cabinet. Score of the Room. Auguststr. 83. www. coppi.de; Zilberman Gallery, to 14 Apr: Antonio Cosentino: Summer was a Beautiful Day. Goethestr.

82. www.zilbermangallery.com; CWC Gallery, to 21 Apr: Nikolai Makarov. Auguststr. 11 – 13. www.camerawork.de; Galerie Brockstedt, to 28 Apr: Rocco Hettwer. Mommsenstr. 59. www.brockstedt.com.

VOGELER, HEINRICH (12.12.1872 - 14.6.1942)KULTURARBEIT DER STUDENTEN IM SOMMER, 1924ÖL AUF LEINWAND, 126 X 90 CM© STAATLICHE MUSEEN ZU BERLIN, NATIONALGALERIE / VOLKER-H. SCHNEIDER. NEXT PAGE: © ISTOCK

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THINGS WE LOVE ABOUT BERLIN There are many reasons to love the German capital.

1 2 3

AUGUSTSTRASSE IN MITTE: one long art gallery.

SHOPPING AT KADEWE: the biggest department store in Europe.

THE MIX OF CULTURES: hundreds of languages and foods.

For Explorers!

Trebbiner Str. 9, 10963 Berlin | www.sdtb.de |

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THE CULTURE: three opera houses and myriad theaters big and small.

A world of exhibitions

THE CITY’S LAID-BACK NATURE: a relaxed, casual look rules.

THE SPREE RIVER and the city’s endless waterways.

THE CULINARY DIVERSITY, from arroz con pollo to Zimtsterne.

EXPERIENCING THE CITY BY NIGHT. Berlin is safe, lively, and insomniac.

THE ASISI WALL PANORAMA: a journey back in time.

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THE HISTORIC BUILDINGS: a feast of architectural styles.

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DINING | THE GUIDE

Top left, left, and this photo: Einsunternull; Above and top right: Tulus Lotrek.

A Makeover For German Cuisine It’s taken some time for German cuisine to shed the outdated, stodgy-meat-andpotatoes stereotypes that have dogged it so long. But thanks to a new generation of trailblazing chefs there’s a revival well underway, resulting in a contemporary, creative, seasonally driven style that’s been dubbed “new German cuisine.”

Leading the pack is Einsunternull (Hannoversche Str. 1, www.restauranteinsunternull.de), a stylishly minimal Michelinstarred locale in Mitte that serves pared-down, artfully plated meals to match, each dish crafted with precision, mastery, and a knack for striking flavors. The multi-course menus are produce driven, starring ingredients sourced predominately from the Berlin region, and quite vegetarian friendly as a result. The Einsunternull philosophy eschews luxury in favor of elevating simple, high-quality ingredients to something special. Hits 48 W H E R E B E R L I N I A P R I L 2 01 8

include raw, shaved mushrooms paired with a malty rye cream and lightly drizzled with flax oil, grilled beef heart with aromas of green grass, and delicately poached leeks speckled with clover buds.

At the other end of the city, Herz & Niere (Fichtestr. 31, www.herzundniere.berlin) reinvents rustic culinary traditions for the modern gourmand’s palate. Taking a page from the gospel of “nose to tail” cuisine, which advocates using every part of the animal, Herz & Niere – meaning “Heart & Kidney” – does brilliant things with every organ of lamb, pork, beef, wild game, and more, rounded out with seasonal produce and classic German flavors. Dishes like tender, delicately seasoned tripe in Riesling sauce or golden veal sweetbreads with a celeriac and pear braise are sure to expand your culinary horizons.

For the offal-averse there are also more conventional cuts of meat on offer, as well as

local fish and a “leaf to root” vegetarian menu.

Herz & Niere strikes a perfect balance, paying homage to rustic traditions while refining them with contemporary flavors.

Kreuzbergers have it lucky, because just down the block from Herz & Niere is the equally ambitious Tulus Lotrek (Fichtestr. 24, www.tuluslotrek.de). Though it may appear snug and unassuming from the outside, the kitchen inside whips up lofty Michelin-starred cuisine that harmonizes German, French and international influences. Chef Max Strohe has a special knack for playful, creative twists and combinations, beginning with local ingredients and confidently departing on delicious flights of fancy from there. The result is taste sensations like a sea urchin “sandwich” with cured egg yolk, rare venison loin with poppy seed and salsify root, and caramelized savoy cabbage with walnut milk and cranberries.

TULUS LOTREK: ©JENNIFER MARKE; EINSUNTERNULL INTERIOR: © TILL SCHUSTER; ALL OTHERS: COURTESY OF EINSUNTERNULL

Forget sausages and sauerkraut. There’s a contemporary revival of German cuisine well underway, Hilda Hoy found.

DINING KEY Alc (à la carte): Prices are per person for three courses (excl. drinks) €: under €15. €€: €15–€40. €€€: €40–€80. €€€€: over €80. Restaurants listed in Fine Dining have at least one Michelin star. Letter/ number codes correspond to map at back of book.

www.spindlerklatt.berlin Köpenicker Str. 16 / 17 | Kreuzberg

Recommended by Die Goldenen Schlüssel Deutschland e.V./U.I.C.H. Les Clefs d’Or.

FINE DINING For a complete list of Berlin's Michelin-starred restaurants, visit wheretraveler.com/berlin.

5 – Cinco by Paco Pérez Catalan star chef Paco Pérez’s very first endeavor outside Spain is this Michelin-starred restaurant in Das Stue Hotel. His aim is to tickle all five senses with avant-garde taste experiences that take full advantage of the flavors and ingredients of his home country. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.5-cinco.com. Drakestr. 1.

T: 030.3117220. S Tiergarten. C3

Facil Situated in a glass atrium of The Mandala Hotel and ringed by the courtyard’s trees, Facil has mastered understated elegance in both its décor and cuisine. Double-Michelin-starred chef Michael Kempf is particularly masterful with seafood when creating his fine menus. €€€€. Mon–Fri L&D. www.facil.de. Potsdamer Str. 3.

T: 030.590051234.

S Potsdamer Platz. D3

Fischers Fritz Pure, straightforward luxury is the formula at this restaurant in the Regent Berlin Hotel. One of just a handful of Berlin restaurants to earn two Michelin stars, Fischers Fritz will not fail to impress with its elevated cuisine and finely honed service. €€€€.

Daily B, humuD. www.fischersfritzberlin.com.

Charlottenstr. 49. T: 030.20336363.

U Französische Straße. E3

Golvet Modern European. With its spacious terrace, classy lounge, and sweeping cityscape views, Golvet is much more than a restaurant – it's also a prime spot for taking in the sunset with an aperitif in hand.

The ambiance of sleek Nordic-inspired style pairs perfectly with the menu of high-end European fusion dishes €€. Tues–Sat D. www.golvet.de. Potsdamer Str. 58, 8th floor. T: 030.89064222. S Tiergarten. D4

Horváth Austria-born chef Sebastian Frank built a reputation – and earned a Michelin star – with his highly creative, oftentimes minimalist use of seasonal ingredients, from sunchokes to candied parsley root to spruce needles. Wooden interior and lovely outdoor patio. €€€. Wed–Sun D. www.restaurant-horvath.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 44a.

T: 030.61289992. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer The Hotel Adlon restaurant boasts two Michelin stars and a well-earned spot in the upper echelon of Berlin’s finest restaurants. No detail is spared in the creation of an unforgettable dining experience. €€€€. Wed–Sat D. www.lorenzadlonesszimmer.de. Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2661196.

S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Pauly Saal The chic, hip décor is matched by a menu of equally creative German cuisine, which was awarded a Michelin star in 2013. Meat dishes made

Experience selected Szechuan and Cantonese foods in modern ambience The best Peking duck in town Am Kupfergraben 4 / 4A 10117 Berlin daily opened 12:00-23:00

Reservation: 030 - 200 595 00 www.restaurant-jolly.de

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DINING from local game are a highlight. €€€. Daily L&D, closed Sun and Mon. www.paulysaal.com.

Auguststr. 11–13. T: 030.33006070. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Reinstoff Chef Daniel Achilles didn’t earn two Michelin stars by playing it safe. The two nightly dinner menus at Reinstoff – one focused on regional tastes, the other incorporating influences from farther afield – are successful experiments in exciting, avantgarde cuisine. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.reinstoff.eu. Schlegelstr. 26c.

T: 030.30881214.

U Naturkundemuseum, S Nordbahnhof. E2

Rutz Wine bar, wine shop, and restaurant in one, Rutz offers perfectly paired meals by Chef Marco Müller, whose six-, eight-, and 10-course “Inspiration Menus” combine simple yet diverse ingredients into creative taste sensations. €€€€.

Tue–Sun D. www.rutz-weinbar.de. Chausseestr. 8.

T: 030.24628760. U Oranienburger Tor. E4

Skykitchen Part of the andel’s Hotel, Skykitchen brings a welcome touch of luxury to the Lichtenberg district and was accordingly crowned with a Michelin star in 2014. Try chef Alexander Koppe’s fourcourse “From Berlin to the Sea” regional menu for modern takes on traditional favorites. €€€. Tue–Sat D. www.vi-hotels.com.

Landsberger Allee 106.

T: 030.4530532620.

S Landsberger Allee. H2

Tim Raue

ASIAN Gagans

Indian. Just a five-minute walk from the Kurfürstendamm shopping boulevard, Gagans serves delicious North Indian specialties every day of the week, including daily lunch specials and a plentiful all-you-can-eat buffet on Sundays. A highlight are the sizzling meat dishes roasted the traditional way in a clay tandoor oven. €€.

Daily L&D. Berliner Weisse is a pale ale brewed only in the www.gagans.de. Uhlandstr. 149. capital and usually T: 030 37470302. U Spichernstraße.

From his humble beginnings growing up in Kreuzberg, Tim Raue served with a shot of B4–C4. has become one of the best-known syrup. culinary names in Berlin. Plumbing India Club the Far East for inspiration, his namesake Indian. Just steps away from the restaurant serves refined interpretations of Asian Brandenburg Gate is this luxurious hideaway cuisine, such as his famed personal take on Peking for high-end North Indian cuisine, boasting an duck. €€€€. ambience that is both elegant and colorful.

Tue–Sat L&D. www.tim-raue.com. Rudi-DutschkeA renowned chef flown in from New Delhi lends Str. 26. T: 030.25937930. his masterful touch to the menu of extravagantly U Kochstraße. E4 spiced specialties. €€€. Daily D. www.india-club-berlin.com. Behrenstr. 72.

T: 030.20628610. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Jolly Chinese. Just across the water from Museum Island, Jolly’s location couldn’t be better for a tasty Chinese meal in between sightseeing stops. Bring an appetite to try as many of the steamed dim sum dumplings as possible before moving on to the menu’s extensive variety of Sichuan-style and Cantonese dishes. Traditional Peking duck is the house specialty. €€. Daily L&D. www.restaurant-jolly.de. Am Kupfergraben 4–4a.

T: 030.20059500.

S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Kimchi Princess Korean. “Let them eat kimchi,” implores the website

for this hip, popular Korean restaurant. The house specialty is the meaty tabletop barbecue to be split between more diners, which comes with all the traditional side dishes including, of course, kimchi. €€. Daily D. www.kimchiprincess.com. Skalitzer Str. 36. T: 0163.4580203. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. F4

Kushinoya

Visitors to Germany this month are lucky to witness the beginning of local foodies’ favorite time of year: asparagus season, or, as it’s called around here, Spargelzeit! The excitement around this humble springtime vegetable can hardly be overstated. You’ll see market stands pop up all over town selling thick, fresh stalks of locally grown white asparagus, which is cultivated under soil cover and painstakingly harvested by hand.

Restaurants all around town unveil special asparagus menus for these few weeks, featuring everything from asparagus soups, salads, quiches, and even asparagus ice cream (for that, visit Tanne B Eissalon in Kreuzberg, Eisenbahnstr. 48). But the most beloved way by far to enjoy the local asparagus is poached and bathed with silky Hollandaise sauce, paired simply with boiled potatoes, some ham, or even a schnitzel.

Give it a try at Aigner, a casual-elegant restaurant for German and Austrian cuisine facing onto Gendarmenmarkt (Französische Str. 25, www.aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de).

The classically styled Einstein Unter den Linden (Unter den Linden 42, www. einstein-udl.com), a stone’s throw from Brandenburg Gate, also unveils some limitededition Spargel dishes this time of year. Out west in Charlottenburg is Engelbecken (Witzlebenstr. 31, www.engelbecken.de), a beloved neighborhood local where you can enjoy seasonal asparagus dishes along with delicious southern German specialties.

50 W H E R E B E R L I N I A P R I L 2 01 8

fried finger-food taste gourmet. The specialty is kushiage, skewers of delicate morsels like steak cubes, quail eggs, or shiitake mushroom caps that are lightly breaded and fried using a special nongreasy technique. www.kushinoya.de. Bleibtreustr. 6.

T: 030.31809897. S Savignyplatz. B4

Spindler & Klatt Asian-European fusion. Restaurant, lounge, and club in one, Spindler & Klatt makes full use of its prime river location. In the summer, the waterside terrace is a memorable spot to enjoy the menu of Pan-Asian dishes, from fine sushi to sizzling tuna steaks and dry-aged Irish steaks hot off the grill. On Fridays and Saturdays, the spot transforms into a club from 23pm. €€€. Daily D. www.spindlerklatt. com. Köpenicker Str. 16–17. T: 030 319881860.

U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Transit Asian Fusion. The long menu of tapas-style Thai and Indonesian dishes, each just a few euros, allows diners to cobble together a meal encompassing a wide range of tastes and ingredients. Other location in Rosenthaler Str. 68. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.transit-restaurants.com.

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Springtime Spargel

Japanese. This upscale Japanese restaurant makes

Sonntagstr. 28. T: 030.26948415.

S Ostkreuz. Off Map

FRENCH Restaurant 1687 French-Mediterranean. Enjoy refined, stylish dining with a side of intriguing history – just a stone's throw from Brandenburg Gate. The restaurant takes its name from the year in which the first Protestant church in Berlin was built on this very site, an important gathering place for French Huguenots fleeing religious persecution. The church was reduced to ruins in WWII, but in its place you can enjoy French-Mediterranean dishes and a top-notch wine selection. €€–€€€. Mon–Sat L&D. www.1687.berlin. Mittelstr. 30. T: 030.20630611.

U Friedrichstraße. E3

Duke Restaurant French. The Ellington Hotel’s restaurant is all about

French haute cuisine with modern, creative twists.

Both the à la carte options and the menu of monthly specials illustrate the restaurant’s dedication to top-quality meat, seafood, and regional produce. €€€. Mon–Sat L&D. www.duke-restaurant.com.

Nürnberger Str. 50-55. T: 030.683154000.

U Augsburger Straße. C4

Lamazère Brasserie French. Proof that fine dining needn’t break the

bank is Lamazère Brasserie, a much-lauded dining spot that earned “Bib Gourmand” status in the revered Michelin Guide, a category commending great food at good value. The three-course dinner menu for €35 will allow you to sample various French food musts, like oeufs cocotte baked eggs, charcuterie platters, duck confit, beef tartare, and tarte tatin for dessert. Whatever the kitchen has cooking that night, every delicacy has that je ne sas quoi that has made French cuisine so famous. €€€. Tue-Sun D. www.lamazere.de. Stuttgarter Platz 18. T: 030.31800712.S Charlottenburg. B4

RESTAURANT | BAR | CLUB | EVENTS

Paris Bar French. Many celebrities – including

Madonna, Sophia Loren, and Robert De Niro – have patronized this West Berlin institution over the years. The bistro-style menu includes French classics like oysters and steak-frites, though the legend alone is enough to draw guests. €€€.

Daily L&D. www.parisbar.net. Kantstr. 152.

T: 030.3138052. S Savignyplatz. C4

GERMAN/AUSTRIAN AIGNER am Gendarmenmarkt Austrian/German. The Mitte restaurant boasts

an elegant interior and a view on stately Gendarmenmarkt. Styled after Vienna's famed coffeehouses, AIGNER adds a local touch with dishes like Brandenburg roast duck. €€€. Daily L&D. www.aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de.

Französischestr. 25 T: 030.203751850.

U Französische Straße. E3

Altes Zollhaus German. This quaint, cottage-style building

was first constructed in the 1800s, when it served as a tollhouse for passing steamboats, then painstakingly restored after WWII. Today, it’s a canal-side restaurant serving elevated German cuisine created from the finest regional ingredients. €€–€€€. Tues–Sat D. www.altes-zollhaus-berlin.de.

Carl-Herz-Ufer 30. T: 030.6923300.

U Prinzenstraße. E4

Open daily: Monday to Friday: 12.00 - 23.00 CET Saturday and Sunday: 18.00 - 23.00 CET Make your Reservation: Tel. 030 / 278 909 95 55 www.the-grand-berlin.com

www.wheretraveler.com 51

DINING

Caffeine addicts, rejoice! In recent years, Berlin has seriously upped its coffee game. Cappuccino, macchiato, and flat white fans might once have had to travel far to find their favorite cup, but now there are great cafés in practically every district. We rounded up a few neighborhood favorites.

Dining column here maybe? (didn't we do CARPENTER one a while MITTE: FATHER Tucked away in a gorgeous turn-of-theago? century courtyard, secluded from the havebusiest a fullshopping hubbub ofcan't one of Mitte’s districts, Father Carpenter serves up page of listings impeccable coffees in cheerful Pantone blue cups. Add on a tasty sandwich or a little something sweet for the perfect coffee break or light lunch.

Münzstr. 21, www.fathercarpenter.com

PRENZLAUER BERG: BONANZA COFFEE One of the local forefathers of the Third Wave coffee trend, Bonanza Coffee has been roasting and brewing coffee next to Mauerpark since 2006. All these years later, their espressos and drip brews still stand up to the competition.

Oderberger Str. 35, www.bonanzacoffee.de

KREUZBERG: COMPANION COFFEE Sharing a space with the Voo concept store lends Companion an ultra-hip and fashionable air. Stringent quality standards ensures that the coffee here is always top notch. Bonus: unlike most cafés, Companion is equally as diligent about serving great teas as well.

Oranienstr. 24, www.companioncoffee.com

FRIEDRICHSHAIN: SILO Just a stone’s throw away from busy Boxhagener Platz, Silo is a dependable spot not just for fantastic coffee, but delicious brunch, too, like luscious French toast and poached eggs packed with flavorful toppings.

Gabriel-Max-Str. 54, www.silo-coffee.com

52 W H E R E B E R L I N I A P R I L 2 01 8

German/French. A favorite hobnobbing spot

of the rich and famous, Borchardt is popular for both its food (especially the schnitzel) as well as the opportunity to see and be seen. €€. Daily L&D. www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Französische Str. 47.

T: 030.81886262. U Französische Straße. E3

Hofbräuhaus German. An Oktoberfest

Nante Eck German. With delightful dishes from Berlin’s

traditional cuisine and a menu that changes every month, the Nante Eck restaurant offers a refined cuisine made with fresh local ingredients.

Specialties include extra-big currywurst and Flammkuchen pies. Very long beer menu. €.

Daily L&D. www.nante-eck.de.

Unter den Linden 35. T: 030.22487257.

U Französische Straße. F2

atmosphere for the whole family Neumond 365 days a year. This restaurant serves German bread is among German. The sight of Neumond’s breakfast, lunch, and dinner in typical the best in the world, historic and refined counter is a hint Bavarian style, alongside live music, and there are some 600 at the restaurant’s simple elegance waiters in traditional costume, and the varieties from which to choose.

– in both interior design and menu, traditional Hofbräu beer, brewed in which includes a vast selection of Munich since the 1700s. Expect courses; classics and specials. And for dumplings and roasted ham hock at their everyone with a sweet tooth: There’s a white popular Sunday brunch. €. www.hofbraeu-wirtshaus.de. Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 30. chocolate mousse on the dessert menu. To top it T: 030 679665520. U + S Alexanderplatz. F2 all off: A bar with a variety of drinks to choose from.

Borsigstr. 28, Mitte. Daily L and Tue-Sun D. The Grand www.office@neumond-restaurant.de.

German. The sophisticated supper club, with origins T: 030.2857505. reaching back to 1842, boasts an American grill that S Nordbahnhof. E2 makes its international array of steaks among the best in town. The upstairs lounge attracts a decadent Rotisserie Weingrün German/European. Overlooking the canal on late-night scene. €€€. Mon–Fri L, Daily D. the southern edge of Museum Island, this www.the-grand-berlin.com. Hirtenstraße 4. elegant-casual restaurant is a favorite of many local T: 030.278909555. Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2 gastronomes. The highlight is the huge, upright Grill Royal flame grill, which prepares steaks, ribs, pork belly, German/French. A beloved destination of and rotisserie chicken to perfection. Try the Mitte’s well-dressed creative scenesters. octopus salad or flambéed salmon for a special There’s more to the menu than just grilled meat, treat. €€–€€€. Mon–Sat D. though the steaks are indeed excellent. Lobster www.rotisserie-weingruen.de. Gertraudenstr. 10. cocktail, ceviche, and oysters are just a few other T: 030.20621900. U Spittelmarkt. F3. additions to the fine menu. €€€. Daily D. Volt www.grillroyal.com. Friedrichstr. 105b.

German. The name of this restaurant and the edgy, T: 030.28879288. post-industrial interior remind diners that the space S Friedrichstraße. E3 was once an electricity station. Chef Matthias Gleiss Jolesch has edge, too – he was named Newcomer of the Austrian. The dining room is elegant yet understated Year in 2011 by a jury of top Berlin chefs. Refined yet and this Austrian restaurant divides its menu into two exciting German food is his calling card. €€€. Mon– sections: “modern” and “classic.” The former means Sat D. www.restaurant-volt.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 21. creations like smoked veal tartare with elderflower; T: 030.61074033. the latter refined renditions of home-style dishes U Kottbusser Tor. G4 like Tafelspitz beef or schnitzel. €€. Daily L&D. www.jolesch.de. Muskauer Str. 1. T: 030.6123581.

U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

ITALIAN

Käfer Dachgarten-Restaurant of the German Bundestag German. The Reichstag is for more than sightseeing.

Thanks to the culinary team behind Käfer, it’s also a fine dining destination. On the roof of the famed landmark, Käfer boasts splendid views and refined, modern German cuisine. Advance reservations required. Due to security precautions, each guest must provide official photo I.D. upon entry. €€€.

Daily B, L, D. www.feinkost-kaefer.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030 2262990. U Bundestag, S Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3.

Maximilians German. Maximilians recreates the feel of a cozy Bavarian beer hall with hearty food and plentiful beer. Meaty specialties include pork knuckle served with dumplings and sauerkraut, freshly baked pretzels, and the tempting “Munich sausage parade.” From the four kinds of Paulaner beer on tap to the warm hospitality, Maximilians goes to great lengths to transport a piece of Bavaria to the heart of Mitte. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.maximiliansrestaurant.de. Friedrichstr.

185–190. T: 030.20450559. U Stadtmitte. E3

Barist Italian. Healthful, filling breakfasts, quick business lunches, happy-hour cocktails, and dinner with friends in the red-bricked arches under the trains at S Hackescher Markt station. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.barist.de. Am Zwirngraben 13.

T: 030.24722613.

S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

Bocca di Bacco Italian. This high-level restaurant offers

modern Italian cuisine prepared with top-quality ingredients, accompanied by excellent wines. Contemporary furnishings and elegant atmosphere. www.boccadibacco.de. €€–€€€.

Daily L&D. Friedrichstr. 167-168. T: 030.20672828.

U Französische Straße. E3

Italofritzen Italian. Everyone’s favorite food: traditional

Italian pizza, homemade pasta, fresh mozzarella and tomato, good ham, cappuccino, and cornetti pastries done just the way you love it! www.friedrichs106.de. Friedrichstr. 105.

T: 030.40040600. S+U Friedrichstraße E3

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Coffee Break

Borchardt

www.1687.berlin

MIDDLE EASTERN Glass Modern Arabic. A 2013 addition to the west-end

gourmet scene, Glass is the baby of Israeli chef Gal Ben Moshe. Guests in the sleek, modern space get wowed with an innovative tasting menu that does magical things with traditional Arabic ingredients like preserved lemon, sumac, and lamb. €€€. Daily D, closed Sun–Mon. www.glassberlin.de. Uhlandstr. 195.

T: 030.54710861. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

OTHER Adana Grillhouse Turkish. This all-encompassing menu of Turkish dishes allows for a full on Turkish experience – sights, smells and tastes to reflect the cuisine that has found its way into the heart and soul of Berlin. A high priority for Adana Grillhaus is to ensure a familiar and welcoming atmosphere.

Second location in Friedrichshain-Kreuzberg at Manteuffelstr. 86. €€ Daily L&D. www.adanagrillhaus.de. Skalitzerstr. 105.

T: 030.82409600.

U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

SPRE

International. Inside, the restaurant takes over the historic arched space under S Hackescher Markt station, featuring a grand old wooden bar that lives up to the restaurant’s name, and out front, the terrace spills out across the busy Platz. The large international menu ranges from steaks to pizzas to burgers. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.grandrocka.de.

Am Zwirngraben 6–7.

T: 030.24638606. F2

Str. des 17. Juni

Pariser Platz

U

Dorotheenstraße Schadowstr.

Grand Rocka

FriedrichEbert-Platz Scheidemannstr.

Wilhelmstraße

Fine french inspired cuisine in an elegant ambiance.

Bahnhof Friedrichstraße

E

Mittelstraße

Unter den Linden

Neustädtischer Kirchplatz / Mittelstraße 30 / 10117 Berlin T. 0049 30 20630611 / info@1687.berlin open from 12:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m. / Sunday closed 0

Vivolo Olé Spanish. Authentic Spanish cuisine at Hackescher Markt, including a wide selection of tapas, paellas, grilled meats and fresh fish dishes. Vegetarian and vegan options available. www.vivolo.de.

Am Zwirngraben 11-12. T: 030.24631933.

S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

VEGETARIAN/VEGAN Katjes Veggie Café Grün-Ohr Vegetarian. It’s heaven for the sweet-toothed. The

shop and café by Katjes not only stocks the brand’s full line of vegetarian-friendly, gelatin-free gummy candy, but also a rainbow of vegan cupcakes, coffee, and freshly squeezed juices that can be enjoyed on site or to go. €. Rosenthaler Str. 32.

T: 030.97894702. www.cafegruenohr.de. F2

Lucky Leek

Servus Bavaria!

Delicious german food and drinks at Maximilians.

Vegetarian. It’s not luck that makes Lucky Leek so good, but rather a dedication to creating top-notch gourmet cuisine that is also 100-percent vegan and incorporates international tastes. The small but comprehensive menu changes regularly. €€.

Wed–Sun D. www.lucky-leek.de.

U Senefelderplatz. F2

Lowkal Superfood The first low-carb, superfood café and restaurant in Berlin. No additional sugar used here, only fresh, seasonal produce full of all the vitamins, minerals, fructose, and fiber your body needs to power through the day without feeling lethargic. www.lowkal.berlin. Pfalzburger Str. 72A. T: 030.88720836.

U Hohenzollernplatz. B4

Friedrichstraße 185–190 maximilians-berlin.de

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ENTERTAINMENT | THE GUIDE

Theater À La Carte Great performances are even greater when paired with a good meal, says Solveig Steinhardt There’s nothing as magical as going to the theater: the dim lighting, the excitement of experiencing a live show, the sounds, the artistic expression of the perfromances. Sometimes, however, a bit of food and a glass of wine wouldn’t hurt, and many theaters in town offer the possibility of enjoying a full meal while watching the show.

A popular choice is Chamäleon (www. chamaeleonberlin.com). Housed inside the Hackesche Höfe, this intimate theater specializes in contemporary circus performances, and features a small stage with tables in front of it. The audience can enjoy drinks and snacks while watching the show, or 54 W H E R E B E R L I N I A P R I L 2 01 8

order more substantial dishes to enjoy during the intermission. The latest show, Finale by contemporary circus company Analog, is an unconventional performance that mixes daring acrobatics, circus tricks, and stunts with music and dance to celebrate friendship and good times.

With a similar stage-table arrangement but spread over a much larger area, the Tipi am Kanzleramt theater tent (www.tipi-amkanzleramt.de) offers an extensive menu of salads, cheeses, pastas, and currywurst, all of which can which be enjoyed during the show.

There’s also a luxury champagne package for romantic candlelight toasts. For the first two weeks of this month, you can book a table for

the Tap Pack tap dance show (until 8 April), which combines Sinatra songs with fabulous dancing and lots of Australian humor.

Cabaret theater Wintergarten Varieté (www.wintergarten-berlin.de) is known for its so-called Show & Dine formula, featuring three-course menus designed to match the theme of the current show. For Take It Easy, A Roadtrip To The Roots Of Rock And Pop, running all month, the menu was inspired by the US and its music, with steak, Texas-style guacamole, sweet potatoes, and NY-style cheesecake. Savor it all while enjoying the music of Johnny Cash, Dolly Parton, Fleetwood Mac, and many other stars of country music.

TIPI AM KANZLERAMT, PHOTO BY STEFAN KLONK; CHAMÄLEON THEATER PHOTO BY THOMAS TRESTIK; TAP PACK: COURTESY OF TAP PACK; WINTERGARTEN: PHOTO BY LEO SEIDEN; FINALE: PHOTO BY PETR MAKOVIKA

Clockwise from top left: Tipi am Kanzleramt; Finale; Chamäleon Theater; Tap Pack; Wintergarten Varieté.

FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

BALLET & OPERA Deutsche Oper A 1960s décor-free box of acoustic magic.

Director and conductor Donald Runnicles puts together rich programs with lots of Verdi, Rossini, and Mozart. 2, 8 Apr: Tannhäuser (Wagner). 5, 13 Apr: Cavalleria Rusticana/Bajazzo (Mascagni/ Leoncavallo). 15, 21, 29 Apr: Don Giovanni (Mozart).

29 Apr: Die Fledermaus (Wagner). www.deutscheoperberlin.de.

T: 030.34384343. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Komische Oper Young and daring opera productions won this theater the title of Opera House of the Year 2013.

Australian intendant Barrie Kosky is also the artistic director of some of the performances, with mesmerizing results. 1 Apr: Anatevka (Bock).

2 Apr: Jevgeny Onegin (Tchakovsky). 6, 8 Apr: Il Barbiere di Siviglia (Rossini). 12 Apr: Snow White and the 77 Dwarves (Kats-Chernin). 13 Apr: Snow White and the 77 Dwarves (Kats-Chernin). www.komische-oper-berlin.de. Behrensstr. 55-57.

T: 030.47997400. U Französische Straße. E3

Staatsoper Unter Den Linden Berlin's historic opera house reopened in 2017 after lengthy renovations. Barenboim's perfect productions range from Baroque operas to contemporary premieres. 1 Apr: Falstaff (Verdi).

2 Apr: Parsifal (Wagner). 5, 7, 12 Apr: Die Zauberflöte (Mozart). 8, 11, 14, 20, 21, 22 Apr: The turn of the screw (Britten). 13, 15, 28 Apr: Les pecheurs de perles (Bizet). 27 Apr: il Barbiere di Siviglia (Rossini). www.staatsoper-berlin.de. T: 030.2035540.

Unter den Linden 7. U Alexanderplatz. E3

Ninth Symphony. www.konzerthaus.de.

Gendarmenmarkt. T: 030.203092101.

U Hausvogteiplatz. E3

Philharmonie The iconic concert venue is home to the acclaimed Berliner Philharmoniker, currently led by Sir Simon Rattle, but also hosts other ensembles and soloists. Free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays 1pm.

8 Apr: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Sir Simon Rattle) perform Wagner's Parsifal in concert version. 12–14 Apr: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Petrenko) perform works by Dukas, Prokofiev. 19–21 Apr: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Harding) perform works by Mozart.

25–27 Apr: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond.

Gilbert) perform Mozart and Debussy. www. berliner-philharmoniker.de. Herbert-von-KarajanStr. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Pierre Boulez Saal Berlin’s newest concert hall is part of the Barenboim-Said Akademie, an institution dedicated to bringing together talented young musicians from Arab, Israeli, and Christian backgrounds. A unique, modern design by the venerable Frank Gehry design ensures stunning acoustics, and co-founder Daniel Barenboim makes regular appearances on stage. www.boulezsaal.de. Französische Str. 33D. T: 030 47997411.

U Französische Straße. E3

Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin Injecting new expression into 19th- and 20thcentury classical works under the lead of Marek Janowski, the oldest German radio orchestra with its 103 members has won a place in the top tier of

From Nashville With Love Anyone who’s ever watched Nashville, the ABC show, will remember Scarlett O’Connor, the young poet who casually gets noticed by protagonist Rayna Jaymes and ends up embarking on a music career. In real life, Scarlett aka Clare Bowen is not only a TV actress, but also a successful singer. When not on set, she spends her time touring the world with her country songs. Catch her at Huxleys Neue Welt on 30 April. www.huxleysneuewelt.com

Staatsballett Berlin’s ballet company currently performs at various locations. 6 Apr: Giselle at Staatsoper Unter den Linden. 22, 27 Apr: Don Quixote (Minkus) at Komische Oper. 29 Apr: Romeo and Juliet at Deutsche Oper. www.staatsballett-berlin.de.

T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3

CLASSICAL CONCERTS Hochschule für Musik Hans Eisler One of Berlin’s most prestigious music academies.

Its students are members of important orchestras, choirs, and bands, and the stage presents hundreds of concerts every year – many of which are free. www.hfm-berlin.de. Charlottenstr. 55.

T: 030.688305700. U Stadtmitte. E3

COURTESY OF CLARE BOWEN AND TRINITY MUSIC

Chamber Music Hall of the Philharmonie Part of the Philharmonie, this concert hall presents daily chamber-music concerts and free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays. 1 Apr: European Vivaldi Players, Steven Bevier. 10 Apr: Daishin Kasimoto sings Brahms, Stravinky, Bartók.

15 Apr: Philharmonia Quartett. www.berlinerphilharmoniker.de. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1.

T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Konzerthaus This charismatic 1821 concert hall is the base theater of the Konzerthausorchester, but other orchestras and soloists grace its stage regularly.

7 Apr: Rundfunk Sinfonieorchester Berlin (cond. Jurowski) perform Berg and Beethoven.

12–14 Apr: Konzerthausorchester (cond. Davies); music by Strauss and Bernstein. 20, 22 Apr: Konzerthausorchester (cond. Fischer) performs Liszt, Brahms. 24 Apr: Salut Salon. 27–29 Apr: Konzerthausorchester (cond. Fischer), Beethoven's www.wheretraveler.com 55

ENTERTAINMENT European concert orchestras. www.rsb-online.de.

Tickets: 030.20298715.

DANCE AND EXPERIMENTAL SPACES HAU (Hebbel am Ufer)

presents

Cutting-edge shows and hip performances at this off-theater and cultural point. www.hebbel-amufer.de. Stresemannstr. 29; Tempelhofer Ufer 10; Hallesches Ufer 32. T: 030.2590040.

U Hallesches Tor. E4

ARTISTIC PICTURES TO THE HITS OF

KENNY ROGERS JOHNNY CASH DOLLY PARTON BOB DYLAN ZZ TOP THE EAGLES JOE COCKER BOSS HOSS ED SHEERAN TEXAS LIGHTNING SIMON & GARFUNKEL FLEETWOOD MAC BRUCE SPRINGSTEEN

ROADTRIP TO THE ROOTS OF ROCK & POP

Radialsystem V Once a turn-of-the-century pumping station for the Berlin Water Services, this creative space is now a cultural center and idea factory that hosts performances of all kinds, from classical concerts to jazz jam sessions to contemporary dance. www.radialsystem.de. Holzmarktstr. 33.

T: 030.288788588. S+U Jannowitzbrücke. G3

AND MANY MORE

Sophiensaele Choreographer Sasha Waltz’s center for avantgarde dance, contemporary theater (mainly in German), music, and experimental performance artists. www.sophiensaele.com. Sophienstr. 18.

T: 030.2835266. U Weinmeisterstraße, S Hackescher Markt, S Oranienburger Straße. E2

HITS & ACROBATICS

MOVIE THEATERS CinemaxX Potsdamer Platz Multiplex cinema. Most of the movies are screened in their original language, with or without subtitles. www.cinemaxx.de. Potsdamer Str. 5.

T: 040.80806969. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

www.wintergarten-berlin.de | Ticket-Hotline: 030 - 588 433 | Potsdamer Str. 96, 10785 Berlin

Cinestar Sony Center

48. BERLINER FRÜHLINGSFEST March 28 to April 22

The latest Hollywood blockbusters, in English, every day. www.cinestar.de. Potsdamer Str. 4.

T: 030.26066400. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Odeon This old-school single-screen cinema was Berlin’s first English-language theater and still screens both cult movies and new releases. Hauptstr. 116.

T: 030.78704019.

S Schöneberg. C5

Free Entrance

ROCK, POP, JAZZ

Zentraler Festplatz at Kurt-Schumacher-Damm

Columbiahalle/C-Halle

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The multi-function event space hosts some of today’s most popular pop and rock acts. www.columbia-theater.de. Columbiadamm 13-21.

T: 030.69812814. U Platz der Luftbrücke. E5

Fireworks on March 31 and April 21 On-Site Parking www.svbev.de Monday to Saturday from 2 pm Sunday/Easter from 1 pm – Good Friday Closed Family Day on Wednesday: Half Price for all rides

Estrel Festival Center Berlin Enjoy an evening with the world’s top look-andsound-alike artists and taste a three-course dinner during Stars In Concert, a live performance of legends like Elvis, Abba, Johnny Cash, Buddy Holly, and more. www.stars-in-concert.de.

Wed–Sat 8:30pm, Sun 7pm.

Sonnenallee 225. €20, from €60 with dinner. Off Map

KulturBrauerei The early-1900s brewery complex now houses various restaurants and art spaces, with a rich combination of programs, as well as a very popular street-food market most Sundays. www.kulturbrauerei.de. Schönhauser Allee 36.

T: 030.44352614. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin A massive arena for world-touring pop concerts

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ENTERTAINMENT

Jenna Rose Robbins curated a soundtrack for a visit to the city, consisting of songs that both celebrate and best encapsulate the spirit of Berlin at different times in its history.

Berlin has a long-standing reputation for fostering musical creativity. The German capital has been heralded in songs spanning nearly every genre, and has been the inspiration behind some classics.

BERLINER LUFT 1899 Considered the city’s “unofficial anthem,” Paul Lincke’s sprightly march is still often used as an encore by the Berlin Philharmonic orchestra.

The song, whose title means “Berlin Air,” is best enjoyed while walking along the street named after the composer, which runs along the Landwehr Canal in Kreuzberg. THERE'LL BE A HOT TIME IN THE TOWN OF BERLIN 1943 Although Bing Crosby and the Andrews Sisters recorded the original version, Frank Sinatra gets the credit for making it popular, enlisting his signature croon to bring even further emotion to a song already ripe with patriotism: “When the Yanks go marching in, I want to be there, boy, spread some joy, when they take old Berlin.“

“HEROES” 1977 Although written and sung by a Brit, David Bowie’s now-classic might be the "most Berlin" song ever recorded, even when compared to the remainder of the artist’s own “Berlin trilogy” albums. The lyrics describing the lovers kissing by an unnamed wall as gunshots ring out was written by Bowie as he peered out of a Hansa Studios (p.

34) window and spied his music producer enjoying a tryst by the famous landmark. “Heroes” was even featured on the soundtrack for We Children From Bahnhof Zoo, a cult film depicting the darker side of 1970s West Berlin.

THE PASSENGER 1977 One of Iggy Pop’s most popular songs, inspired as he rode about town on the S-Bahn, is often interpreted as a metaphor for the punk lifestyle, which was just burgeoning in the divided city. The track was

released on 1977’s Lust For Life, which was also recorded at Hansa and features Bowie on back-up vocals. Try to get this earworm out of your head next time you’re transferring at Potsdamer Platz.

HOLIDAYS IN THE SUN 1977 Since it seems every other artist was writing about Berlin this year, the Sex Pistols decided to follow suit, releasing this as a track on their one and only studio album. After getting booted off the island of Jersey, the punk rockers skedaddled to Berlin, which they found to be much more to their liking for a break from their London hometown. Frontman Johnny Rotten declared, “I loved Berlin. I loved the Wall and the insanity of the place.“ ONE 1992 Most any of the songs from U2’s Achtung Baby could have made the cut for this list, but it’s the album’s third track that most fully exemplifies both the city and the mood of the band as they recorded at Hansa. Just as Berliners were trying to find their way in a reunited country, U2’s members were experiencing their own discord, with drummer Larry Mullen, Jr. even stating he thought “this might be the end” for the band. Lyrics such as

“We're one, but we're not the same, we get to carry each other“ refer as much to the sentiments of the band members for each other as those of East and West Germans at the time.

CITY OF NIGHT BERLIN 1989 Peter Schilling found minor success outside of his native Germany with Coming Home (Major Tom), his retelling of Bowie’s Space Oddity.

Released just before the Wall came down, City of Night (Berlin) speaks of the plights of a still-divided city while encouraging Berliners to retain hope: “What's done is done, but you are still young, Berlin.”

A GREAT DAY FOR FREEDOM 1994 Although Another Brick In the Wall was performed at Pink Floyd’s 1990 concert on the former noman’s-land between Potsdamer Platz and the Brandenburg Gate, it’s the band’s 1994 song that has stronger ties to the city. Written shortly after the history-making Berlin show, A Great Day for Freedom tackles the disappointment many felt after the fall of the Wall. “I sort of wish and live in hope, but I tend to think that history moves at a much slower pace than we think it does,“ guitarist David Gilmour said. “I feel that real change takes a long, long time.” Despite his explanation, some fans continue to interpret the song as Gilmour’s feelings toward former band member Roger Waters.

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ICH HAB’ NOCH EINEN KOFFER IN BERLIN 1954 Hollywood legend Marlene Dietrich recorded numerous songs about the city, including Das

War in Schöneberg, an homage to the neighborhood in which she was born. But it’s her Ich Hab’ Noch Einen Koffer in Berlin ("I Still Have a Suitcase in Berlin") that is perhaps not only her best-known Berlin song but also her greatest tribute.

In her smoky-smooth voice, she makes comparisons to other cities and argues, rightfully so, how none match up to her hometown.

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ENTERTAINMENT and sports events, including those of Berlin’s professional ice hockey team, the Eisbären.

7 Apr: Star Wars in concert. www.mercedes-benzarena-berlin.de. Mühlenstr. 12–30.

T: 030.2060708899. U Warschauer Straße. G4

only. www.bar-jeder-vernunft.de. Schaperstr. 24.

T: 030.8831582. U Spichernstraße. C4

Blue Man Group

The unmistakable Blue Man Group has its own permanent theater, the Bluemax Theater, where the blue-domed performers present an energetic Tempodrom combination of music, art, pantomime, and This large concert building resembling a circus comedy. The few spoken words are in English. tent – and situated on the former grounds of Shows take place almost every night. the now-gone Anhalter Bahnhof – hosts Check website for info. an array of events, from classical www.stage-entertainment.de. concerts and pop-rock productions Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4. to mixed martial arts and dance.

Toll number: 01805.4444.

1 Apr: Editors in concert.

Check out Freaks, an S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3 25 Apr: The Australian Pink unconventional circus Floyd Show.www.tempodrom. performance at RAWChamäleon Variete de. Möckernstr. 10. Toll number: Gelände in Friedrichshain.

An old ballroom where audiences 0186.554111. S Anhalter Bahnhof. E4 www.flicflac.de can experience a young genre that mixes acrobatics with music, dance, and visual arts. All month: Finale. www.chamaeleonberlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 40/41. T: 030.4000590. S Hackescher Markt. E2

THEATER, CABARET & MUSICALS Admiralspalast

One of Berlin’s few preserved pre-WWII variety venues offers an international, high-caliber program of musicals, cabaret, and concerts in an elegant hall from the 1920s. 13 Apr: The Ten Tenors. www.admiralspalast.de. Friedrichstr. 101.

T: 030.47997499. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Bar Jeder Vernunft A 1912 tent housing song-and-dance shows, comedy, and cabaret. Many shows in German

Friedrichstadt-Palast Berlin MUST SEE With the biggest stage in the world, this is Berlin's most spectacular theater and a must-see acccording to The New York Times. Take in special effects and glitzy Vegas-style live shows.

All month: The One Grand Show, with 100 artists and acrobats, is a dreamlike journey through time in search of the one we love. www.palast.berlin Friedrichstr. 107.

T: 030.23262326.

U Friedrichstraße. E3

Tickets 030. 883 15 82 // www.bar-jeder-vernunft.de 58 W H E R E B E R L I N I A P R I L 2 01 8

Kookaburra Tuesday is English Comedy Night at this popular comedy club, and there’s also an English intermezzo late on Saturday nights. www.comedyclub.de. Schönhauser Allee 184.

T: 030.48623186.

U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Quatsch Comedy Club This popular club hosts frequent stand-up comedy shows and a regular English-language night. www.quatschcomedyclub.de. Friedrichstr. 107.

Toll number: 01806.999000969.

S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Schaubühne A popular West Berlin theater in the 1960 and 1970s, this Ku’damm performance venue still hosts some interesting productions. Check website for program. www.schaubuehne.de. Kurfürstendamm 153. U Adenauerplatz. C4

Tipi am Kanzleramt The big tent in the Tiergarten has a vast program of musicals, magic, cabaret, dance, and theater.

Many shows are in German. www.tipi-amkanzleramt.de. Große Querallee.

T: 030.39066550. U Bundestag. D3

Wintergarten Varieté This sumptuous variety theater that has earned a reputation for its revitalized Vaudeville-inspired productions, as well as world-famous acts.

All month: Take it easy! A roadtrip to the roots of rock & pop. www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Potsdamer Str. 96. T: 030.588433. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Tickets 030. 39 06 65 50 // www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de

ON THIS MONTH THEATER, MUSICALS & DANCE FREAKS RAW Gelände, all month.

THE ONE: GRAND SHOW Friedrichstadt-Palast, all month

BLUE MAN GROUP Bluemax Theater, all month

FINALE Chamäleon Theater, all month

TAKE IT EASY! Wintergarten Variete, all month

ANATEVKA Komische Oper, 1 Apr

konzerthaus

ROCK, JAZZ, POP EDITORS Tempodrom, 1 Apr

AUSTRALIAN PINK FLOYD SHOW Tempodrom, 25 Apr

BALLET & CLASSICAL ROMEO & JULIET Staatsballett at Deutsche Oper, 29 Apr

TANNHÄUSER Deutsche Oper, 2 & 8 Apr

EUROPEAN VIVALDI PLAYERS Chamber Music Hall, 1 Apr

BEETHOVEN'S 9TH SYMPHONY Konzerthaus 27–29 Apr

DIE ZAUBERFLÖTE Staatsoper 5 ,7, 12 Apr

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NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE

G&T Bar.

Pick Your Poison To every thing there is a season: a time to experiment and try out new things, and a time to stick with what you already know and love. If tonight’s that kind of night, pick a bar that will give you exactly the kind of drink you want.

For all vodka fans, Kreuzberg’s Kvartira 62 (Lübbener Str. 18) is the place, a charming Russian bar styled like a bohemian cultural salon from the 1920s. There are homemade pelmeni dumplings on the menu too, but you’re really here to drink, so prepare to decide between an exhaustive selection of honey, thyme, pine nut, amber, buckwheat, horseradish, and birch vodkas from Russia and beyond, served the traditional way – plain and room temperature, with morsels of homemade pickles. There’s also a rare selection of polugar, aka “the father of vodka,” a smooth, rye-and-wheat liquor that Russians were drinking long before vodka distillation began in the 1880s.

If whisky is your drink, head to Offside (Jülicher Str. 4, www.offside-wedding.de).

Don’t be fooled by the no-frills pub 60 W H E R E B E R L I N I A P R I L 2 01 8

atmosphere, with smoke hanging in the air and a soccer game playing in the corner. The bar’s dedication to whisky earned it the distinction of Germany’s Best Whisky Bar from the Whisky Guide Deutschland 2015. On the menu is an unbelievable selection of around 1000 whiskies from every corner of Scotland and Ireland and as far away as Japan, Taiwan, and Tasmania. The bar owners will be more than happy to make a recommendation.

Let’s not forget about good old rum. The Rum Trader (Fasanenstr. 40), a tiny, retro bar with an eccentric and dapper owner-bartender, is regularly named one of Berlin’s most unique watering holes. The dark and atmospheric interior, which looks like it hasn’t changed a bit since

the 1960s, is as striking as the bar’s collection of classic and rare rum. Try the Mai Tai, if you dare – the bartender will make it as strong as he thinks you can handle.

Gin is certainly having its moment these days amongst liquor connoisseurs. If you’re one of them, you’ll love the G&T Bar in Mitte’s boutique hotel ZOE (Große Präsidentenstr. 6-7, www.amanogroup. de). On the menu are many dozens of premium, rare, and inventive gins from around the globe, like Amazonia Cantinero from Peru, Bitter Truth Pink Gin from Bavaria, and a whole slew of British specialties. Enjoy them pure and on the rocks, or stirred with one of the bar’s numerous varieties of delicious tonic water.

WHISKY: © ISTOCK; ZOE/G&T BAR © JENS BÖSENBERG

Vodka, whisky, rum, or gin? Hilda Hoy tracked down the best bars for each of the major alcohol groups.

NIGHTLIFE

BEER Ankerklause A canal-side tavern where drinks come with beautiful views of passing boats. Daily from 10am (Mon from 4pm). www.ankerklause.de. Kottbusser Damm 104. T: 030.6935649. U Schönleinstraße. F4

Café am Neuen See and Biergarten A pleasant lakeside beer garden inside the verdant Tiergarten park. Open daily from breakfast onwards. www.cafeamneuensee.de.

Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930.

S Tiergarten. C3

Club der Visionäre This canal-side boat-shack attracts young crowds till early morning and beyond. Daily from 2pm until very late (from noon Sat & Sun). www.clubdervisionaere.com. Am Flutgraben 1.

T: 030.69518942. U Schlesisches Tor, S Treptower Park. G4

Dicke Wirtin This old Berliner Kneipe restaurant is a Charlottenburg institution. Great beer and traditional German dishes. Daily from 11am. www.dicke-wirtin.de. Carmerstr. 9. T: 030.3124952.

S Savignyplatz, S+U Zoologischer Garten. B4

Prater Berlin’s oldest Biergarten serves simple and homely cuisine, seasonal specialties, and lots of beer of course! Daily from 6pm (from noon Sat). www.pratergarten.de. Kastanienallee 7-9.

T: 030.4485688. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Schleusenkrug A relaxing spot for beer lovers amid the lush greenery of the Tiergarten. German specialties to go with your beer include a variety of cakes, Flammkuchen, and a few breakfast options. Daily from 11am. www.schleusenkrug.de. Müller-BreslauStr. T: 030.3139909. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

CASINOS Spielbank Berlin A modern casino offering three floors of fun and games, including 20 tables of roulette, blackjack, and an extensive variety of poker options, as well as 350 gaming machines.Daily from 11am. www.spielbank-berlin.de. MarleneDietrich-Platz 1. T: 030.255990.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3/D4

WINE & COCKTAILS Bar Tausend Celebrities mingle while watching the expert mixologists do their magic at this futuristic bar.

Thu–Sat from 7:30pm. www.tausendberlin.com.

Schiffbauerdamm 11.

T: 030.27582070.

S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

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Fragrances The Ritz-Carlton’s bar is the world’s only to pair cocktails with perfumes. Each drink is represented by a tester bottle of the perfume it’s based on and a photo illustrating the final presentation, which ranges from playful to whimsical. www.ritzcarlton.com.

Potsdamer Platz 3. T:030.337777.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

The Grand A former school building has been transformed into a super-hip restaurant, bar and club all mixed into one. Enjoy top cocktails and a selection of cigars on the green leather couches in the 1920s-inspired bar, then dance the night away in the chic, intimate club. www.the-grand-berlin.com. Hirtenstr. 4.

T: 030.2789099555. S+U Alexanderplatz. B4

Green Door Cocktail Bar One of Berlin’s most relaxing cocktail bars, with a retro style and lots of kitsch décor. The cocktail list is long and the barman famous. Daily 6pm–3am (Fri–Sat until 4am). www.greendoor.de.

Winterfeldtstr. 50. T: 030.2152515.

U Nollendorfplatz. D4

The Unique Bar An international drink menu with 200+ different cocktails, served to a jazz soundtrack. Mon–Sat from 4pm. www.esplanade.de. Grand Hotel Esplanade Berlin, Lützowufer 15.

T: 030.254780. Bus M29, stop Lützowplatz. D4

LaBanca Bar The Hotel de Rome’s bar team specializes in avantgarde cocktails made with unusual ingredients such as balsamic vinegar, rose petals, or ginger beer. Live music Wed–Sat, rooftop terrace in summer. www.hotelderome.com. Behrenstr. 37.

T: 030.4606090. U Französische Straße. E3

Newton Bar Cigars, champagne, whiskey, and cocktails define this bar, which is entirely dedicated to fashion photographer Helmut Newton.

Daily 10am–3am (until 4am Fri–Sat). www.newton-bar.de. Charlottenstr. 57.

T: 030.20295421. U Französische Straße. E3

Reingold A classic cocktail bar, 1920s style. Elegant leather sofas, sumptuous lighting, and gilded elements with a soundtrack ranging from soul and funk to R&B. Tue–Sat from 7pm. www.reingold.de. Novalisstr. 11.

T: 030.28387676. U Oranienburger Tor. E2

Schwarzes Café A 24-hour combination of a bar and a café, with a good selection of beer and wine and hot meals at any time of night. Lovely garden. 24h a day except Tue from 3–10am. www.schwarzescafe-berlin.de.

Kantstr. 148. T: 030.3138038.

U Uhlandstraße, U Savignyplatz. B4

Times Bar A fine and luxurious bar inside the Savoy Hotel, offering modern drinks and Caribbean cocktails alongside a selection of cigars. www.weinrot-restaurant.com.

Fasanenstr. 9-10.

T: 030.311030.

Savignyplatz. C4 Sample delicious house-brewed beers at Friedrichshain's Hops & Barley, Wühlischstr. 22-23.

CLUB GUIDE BERGHAIN/PANORAMA BAR The world's most famous techno club – and with the toughest doormen too.

Fri 12am–Mon. www.berghain.de.

Am Wriezener Bahnhof. G3

KATER BLAU A top-notch soundsystem driving house and techno beats from the best DJs, and a carnival-like atmosphere.

Fri–Sat from midnight. www.katerblau.de.

Holzmarktstr. 25. G3

TRESOR Housed in the safe of a department store, Tresor was the first techno club in Berlin’s post-Wall years. www.tresorberlin.com.

Köpenicker Str. 70. F3

WATERGATE A two-story electro, house, and drum & bass temple, right on the Spree River.

Tight doors. Mon, Wed–Sat from midnight. www.water-gate.de.

Falckensteinstr. 49. G4

HOUSE OF WEEKEND Three floors, fabulous views over the city, and the best DJs playing techno and house.

Fri–Sun from 11pm. www.week-end-berlin.de.

Alexanderplatz 7. F3

CLÄRCHENS BALLHAUS A popular, century-old dance hall. It's salsa on Mon, tango on Tues, swing on Wed, cha cha on Thu, and live ballroom music on Fri+Sat. www.ballhaus.de.

Auguststr. 24.

U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

HORNS & HOOVES An eccentric combination of club, piano bar, cabaret, and circus. www.hornsandhooves.de.

Danziger Str. 1. F1

GRETCHEN Funk, hip hop, drum & bass and electronica at this eclectic Kreuzberg club.

Fri & Sat. www.gretchen-club.de.

Obentrautstr. 19-21. E4

PURO SKY LOUNGE High-heeled crowds in a sleek, luxurious setting on the roof of the Europa Center.

Wed–Sat from 8pm. www.puroberlin.de.

Tauentzienstr. 9-12. C4

THE PEARL Luxurious club for the poshest crowds, Thu–Sat until 7am. www.thepearl-berlin.de.

Fasanenstr. 81. G4

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ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE USEFUL INFORMATION Emergency numbers Police, call 110 free from any phone.

Ambulance or fire, call 112 free from any phone.

Medical Services, T: 030.310031.

24h Pharmacy: Hauptbahnhof Apotheke.

T: 030.20614190. S Hauptbahnhof.

Berlin Police hotline, T: 030.46644664.

Emergency dental services, T: 030.89004333.

Poison hotline, T: 030.19240.

National emergency number for on-call medical service, T: 116117.

Berlin lost and found office, T: 030.902773101.

BERLIN AIRPORTS Berlin Tegel (TXL) Approx. 10 km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150.

TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By bus: Buses 109 or X9 to Zoologischer Garten

run every 10 mins, taking approx. 20 mins. The TXL express bus to Alexanderplatz via Hauptbahnhof runs every 5–10 mins, taking. 25 mins. Single tickets cost €2.80 and can be bought on board.

By U-Bahn: Bus 109 or X9 connects to the U-Bahn system at Jakob-Kaiser-Platz. Bus 128 links to the U-Bahn at Kurt-Schumacher-Platz and runs every 10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. Tickets cost €2.80.

By taxi: Regular cabs take 10–20 mins to city center. Approx. €20–€35.

Left luggage: Service center in Terminal A (ground floor). T: 030.41012315.

BERLIN ESSENTIALS

€ TIPPING: In taxis, rounding up to the nearest euro is the general practice, and the same applies when ordering a beer at the pub. In nicer bars and in restaurants or cafés, tipping around 10% is customary, more if you feel the service was especially good. While it is fine to leave the tip on the table, local practice is to add the tip to the payment when settling up. For example, if the bill is €13 and you want to tip €2, say “Fifteen” to the server when paying.

TAXIS: All taxis in Berlin are the same color of pale beige and are generally clean, safe, and courteous. The meter begins at €3.90 and increases at €2 per km. After the 7th km, the rate reduces to €1.50 / km. Payments by card may incur a €1.50 surcharge. For short rides of 2 km or less, the flat-rate €5 Kurzstrecke fare pays off. The Kurzstrecke rate only applies to hailed taxi rides (not from taxi stands) and must be requested at the start of the ride.

SAFETY: Berlin is a relatively safe city, but beware of pickpockets in busy areas. When in crowded U-Bahn stations, tourist sites, busy markets, and the like, pay close attention to your belongings and valuables.

Alexanderplatz, Kottbusser Tor, Breitscheidplatz, Tauentzienstraße, and around Warschauer Straße station are especially favored by pickpocketers.

Berlin Schönefeld (SXF) Approx. 20 km (12 miles) southeast of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150.

TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By regional train: Deutsche Bahn-operated

RE7 or RB14 to Ostbahnhof, Alexanderplatz, Hauptbahnhof, and Zoologischer Garten. RE9 to Hauptbahnhof via Südkreuz and Potsdamer Platz.

Trains take approx. 45 mins. Tickets cost €3.40.

By S-Bahn: Trains S9 and S45 to Hauptbahnhof, via Ostkreuz and Südkreuz respectively, run. every 20 mins, taking approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.40.

By U-Bahn: Bus X7 and X11 to Rudow station connect with the U-Bahn system and run every 10 mins. Journey approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.40.

By (night) bus: Arrivals between midnight and 4am Mon–Fri can take bus N7 to central areas.

By taxi: Regular cabs take approx. 30 mins to city center, costing €30–€40.

Left luggage: At the multi-storey car park P4.

T: 030.60911150.

HEALTH: Few doctors’ practices open on weekends.

In urgent cases, call 030 310031 to request a home visit from an emergency doctor, or go to the nearest hospital emergency room. For medication, pharmacies offer rotating nighttime and weekend coverage (“Notdienst”).

Visit www.akberlin.de to search for one in your vicinity.

PHONES: The local area code for landline phones is 030. Mobile phones have a wide variety of four-digit dialing codes beginning with 015-, 016-, or 017-. When dialing from a non-German landline or mobile phone, drop the zero before the area code or dialing code and add the German country code: +49 or 0049. Dialing a 0180 number will incur tolls.

GETTING AROUND Public Transport

www.bvg.de.

Buy tickets from machines in the station, and be sure to validate them in the posts next to the ticket machines. Single tickets cost €2.80; or save by paying €9 for four single-trip tickets, which you can validate as you need. If traveling fewer than three train stations or six bus or tram stops, buy a short-trip ticket for €1.70. Day tickets cost €7 for unlimited travel until 3am the following day, or if you are traveling with others, a small group ticket will get up to five people unlimited travel for €19.90. For those staying longer, a pass valid for seven days may be a better value at €30.

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Fares

ESSENTIALS U-Bahn

Osloer Straße

The underground system is extensive. Most lines run every five minutes (less frequently outside working hours), 4am–12:30am (replaced by night buses outside of these times). The entire U-Bahn and S-Bahn network runs all night on weekends.

S-Bahn The above-ground system is faster than the U-Bahn but less frequent. Trains run every 10–20 mins. Timing and ticket rules apply as above.

Public Ferries With a regular BVG ticket ,you can hop on one of the six public ferry lines. Most beautiful is the trip from Wannsee to lakeside Kladow village; ferries leave every hour and take about 20 minutes.

Rail Travel Deutsche Bahn is the railway company that manages the Regional Bahn (RB) and Regional Express (RE) trains, operating around greater Berlin and Potsdam. The Intercity (IC) and European City (EC) trains travel further afield. www.bahn.de. Toll number: 0180.6996633.

VBB is a public transportation authority created to reconnect Berlin to the surrounding Brandenburg area after German reunification.It offers services to metropolitan Berlin as well as to the rural communities in the countryside of Brandenburg. www.vbb.de

Rent A Bike Explore Berlin by bike.

Deutsche Bahn Call-a-Bike service:

www.callabike.de.

STATIOHNE OF T TH MON

If you’re transferring via U8 Osloer Straße station to catch the 128 bus to Tegel Airport, it’s hard to miss the station’s striking wall art.

The repeating motif of the Norwegian flag is a reference to the street aboveground – Oslo Street – after which the station is named.

Though plans were underway to construct a station here at the northern end of the city as far back as 1907, two World Wars got in the way, and Osloer Straße didn’t get built until 1976.

Taxis

Tax-Free Shopping

Würfelfunk: T: 030.210101.

German law entitles all non-EU residents to a VAT tax refund. Look for stores displaying the Premier Tax Free sign and ask for a "tax-free form." When leaving the EU, goods and the completed form must be shown to a customs agent, from which a customs stamp must be obtained no more than three months after the date of purchase. Goods must be unused. Present the stamped form at the refund counter in the airport, or send it to Premier Tax Free as soon as you reach your destination. www.premiertaxfree.com.

MONEY SERVICES Banks and Foreign Exchange Exchange AG: Friedrichstr. 172. T: 030.20649296.

Deutsche Bank: Kurfürstendamm 111. T: 030.8904370.

Lost Cards and Cheques American Express: T: 069.97972000 Diners Club: T: 07531.3633111 MasterCard: T: 0800.8191040 Visa: T: 0800.8118440

MAP LICENSE NUMBER: BVG- 015-2-18.1-1; PHOTO BY SOLVEIG STEINHARDT

Stand: 7. Mai 2018 © Berliner Verkehrsbetriebe (BVG) 015-2-18.1-1

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WHERE NOW | MIA MOSS

My Berlin

MIA MOSS Artist, pottery maker, and teacher all in one, Mia finds many ways to get her hands dirty and spread creative joy. Besides crafting her own beautifully quirky mugs, pots, dishes, jewelry, and more, Mia also offers weekly pottery classes to spread the love of making things by hand. Visit her website for class schedules and information on buying her handiwork, and follow her on Instagram @mosskeramik. www.mosskeramik.de

How did you end up living in Berlin, and how did Moss Keramik come to be?

I spent about two years traveling around the U.S. and Europe, searching for the perfect city to live in as an artist. Berlin happened to be it!

Moss Keramik grew pretty organically out of a hobby, taking classes here and there while I focused on my degree in fine arts. Pottery has a way of capturing your heart.

What are some of the things you like to make in the studio, and what kinds of values are embodied in your work?

I experiment a lot. I still feel that I have so much to learn. But the one through-line through all my collections is a sense of playfulness and color. I want my pottery to make you smile.

The main value of my studio is ecoconsciousness. We produce very little trash, and are conscious of properly disposing of the harsh chemicals we occasionally use.

66 W H E R E B E R L I N I A P R I L 2 01 8

How would you describe Berlin as a city for an artist to live in, and for setting up a creative business?

Berlin is an amazing city to live in as an artist.

The cost of entry is low – studio rent is comparably affordable, sales opportunities are plentiful, people appreciate art, and there is incredible funding for the arts in Germany.

There is a lot of space to experiment with new idea. The only tricky part is the business side of it – lots of rules and regulations.

What are some ways Berlin inspires you, or has influenced you as an artist?

Berlin is an incredibly free place. I come from a small town, so the diversity of people and opportunities in Berlin inspires new possibilities.

And there are so many artists here! We all influence each other and help each other out.

Which part of the city do you call home, and what makes you feel at home there?

I’ve always lived in Prenzlauer Berg. After moving from overseas, I took the first apartment I could find—but I do like it here. It’s slower and greener than other parts of the city, which makes me feel more at home.

A favorite recent discovery in the city?

Last September I moved studios to one in Hohenschönhausen, just north of Lichtenberg. I had never been to that part of the city before, but it does have its own charm. There are actually little houses with little gardens there! I find them so cute.

Imagine you had the entire day off to spend however you choose. What would your perfect Berlin day look like?

I would sleep in and have a slow breakfast with my partner, Jonas. Then we would go to the flea market at Mauerpark or Arkonaplatz to look at all the beautiful old stuff. I am obsessed lately with old wooden furniture. We’d have cappuccino at Moppete on Dunckerstraße, or get ice cream. Then we’d have a stroll through Mauerpark or Volkspark Friedrichshain. I love to escape under some trees as often as I can. We’d spend the rest of the afternoon bumping around the city, maybe popping into a museum or the planetarium (www.planetarium. berlin), and eventually find our way home with some beer for a quiet evening of music and chess, or reading in bed, or sketching out new ideas while listening to podcasts. Quiet evenings are my favorite time of the day, when everything is cozy and everything feels possible.

Clockwise from top left: Ice cream at Hokey Pokey; Volkspark Friedrichshain; Arkonaplatz flea market; Prenzlauer Berg. Inset: Works by Mia Moss.

ICE CREAM: COURTESY OF HOKEY POKEY EISPATISSERIE; VOLKSPARK FRIEDRICHSHAIN, FLEA MARKET, AND PRENZLAUER BERG: © ISTOCK; MIA MOSS AND CERAMICS: COURTESY OF MIA MOSS

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