Where Magazine Berlin Dec 2017 by Morris Media Network

BERLIN CITY GUIDE Â®

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

WWW.WHERETRAVELER.COM

DECEMBER 2017

A Night at

THE OPERA The Staatsoper reopens with a fabulous program

PLU S

E G IF T G U ID T R E AT S H O L IDAY RT UR BA N A M U E MUS

SHOPPING | ENTERTAINMENT | CULTURE | DINING | MAPS

Best of

Christmas

Shopping

GIFT CARD

Alle WÃ¼nsche unter einem Dach.

MALL OF BERLIN

Berlin

12.17

CONTENTS

See more of Berlin at wheretraveler.com

The Plan Let’s get started

The Guide The best of Berlin

8 Hot Dates

A unique take on candied apples, Bratwurst, and crafty gifts galore.

Highlights of the month's can't-miss events, from Harlem Gospel to Santas on motorbikes.

SIGHTSEEING

The majestic Schloss Charlottenburg and its surrounding highlights.

8 74 24

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Urban Nation - a new home for street art. DINING

Guten Appetit! New developments on the city's culinary scene.

74 My Berlin Ducks! Berlin insights from an Australian duo of music makers.

Encore! Encore! The most enchanted shows of the season.

Also Inside

NIGHTLIFE

70 Ask The Concierge The city's concierges share their secrets on the city.

Say farewell to 2017 and party the night away.

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Traditional Stollen, Lebkuchen, and Baumkuchen still made the old-fashioned way.

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Opening night at Staatsoper unter den Linden. © Franziska Krug, Isa Foltin/ Getty Images, courtesy of Staatsoper unter den Linden.

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SHOPPING | ENTERTAINMENT | CULTURE | DINING | MAPS

There's no excuse for leaving your Christmas shopping until the last minute.

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PLUS

DE G FT GU TREAT S HOLIDAY URBA N ART MUSE UM

18 Perfect Presents

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The Staatsoper reopens with a fabulous program

A big round of applause for the reopening of the Staatsoper Unter den Linden.

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THE OPERA

12 Wonderful Opera

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Useful information for your stay in Berlin. lexxa Ale

DECEMBER 2017

ESSENTIALS

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WWW WHERETRAVELER COM

Ti la Gabb -Durieux L k r Kö he e-TTTeerg-Pa k i P ner om Sr

BERLIN CITY GUIDE

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONC ERGE

ENTERTAINMENT

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THE HARLEM GOSPEL SINGERS, PHOTO BY THOMMY MARDO; BAUMKUCHEN: © ISTOCK; DUCKS! COURTESY OF DUCKS! SHOES BY UNÜTZER: STAATSOPER UNTER DEN LINDEN: COURTESY OF STAATSOPER UNTER DEN LINDEN.

SHOPPING

7 Editor’s Note

www.wheretraveler.com 3

Experience great masterpieces. Already while driving to the ‘Museumsinsel’. Sometimes pure driving pleasure starts as soon as you turn the key. Visit www.porsche.de/drive to book your dream Porsche from the current model range or stop by our Porsche Drive location in Berlin, Franklinstrasse 32. Want to continue your journey? Porsche Drive is also available in Stuttgart, in Sylt or in Zug (Switzerland).

Fuel consumption (in l/100 km) combined 2.5; CO₂ emissions combined 56 g/km; electricity consumption: combined in 15.9 kWh/100km

YOUR TRAVEL ING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

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6 W H E R E B E R L I N I D E C E M B E R 2017

PORTRAIT BY THOMAS HEDRICH/FOTOSTUDIO-CHARLOTTENBURG; SKYLINE © TOTALPICS/ISTOCK/THINKSTOCK

Sarah Bethke

WELCOME TO BERLIN

Lots To Explore

Let‘s go up!

Even after all these years living in Berlin, I still spend a lot of time visiting the city and exploring its sights, museums, and food scene. It has been a mild fall, and I have often taken the family on walks in Grunewald forest to look at the gorgeous mushroom explosion and the pretty colors of the autumn leaves. One day, we drove all the way down to Nikolassee to take a small forest road that is only open to vehicles during the day and which takes you past a few white sandy beaches on the lake to the Grunewaldturm, a 19th-century redbrick tower commemorating the birth of Kaiser Wilhelm. You can climb up to the top and admire a sweeping view including the lakes and forest as well as the city. I also went back to Nikolaiviertel, the neighborhood where Berlin was born. Although it was almost entirely destroyed during WWII and rebuilt in the 1980s with East German materials, it still carries that cozy medieval feel that makes the alleys so perfect for a winter walk. This month, do not miss the Nikolaiviertel "Feuriger Winterzauber" market, offering all the Christmas market staples such as Glühwein and treats as well as a program of holiday-themed movies and shows. And if you're in the mood for more treats, turn to page p. 16 for Luisa Weiss's insider tips on the best German Christmas sweets. Enjoy!

SOLVEIG STEINHARDT EDITOR, WHERE BERLIN

Towering 368m above Berlin, the TV Tower dominates the city’s skyline like no other building. Plan your visit now and avoid the queues – book your Fast Track Ticket online. Berlin TV Tower – simply unforgettable!

www.tv-turm.de w w w.wheret r aveler.c o m 7

16 RONCALLI CHRISTMAS CIRCUS FROM SATURDAY

Step right up ladies and gentlemen, the circus is in town! With breathtaking acrobats and aerial performances, magicians, and of course clowns, The Roncalli Christmas Circus has been an annual tradition for German kids for more than 30 years. Performing almost daily at Tempodrom until 2 January. www.tempodrom.de

HOT

DATES December is a truly magical month in the German capital, with Christmas markets, circus performances, and enchanted ballet shows.

8 W H E R E B E R L I N I D E C E M B E R 2017

WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

HARLEM GOSPEL NIGHT FROM FRIDAY

Sing Hallelujah! Every winter for over 20 years, the ApostelPaulus-Kirche in Schöneberg has rocked to its core with the soulful tunes of Donna Brown and the Golden Gospel Pearls. Oh Happy Day is a time to clap those hands, sway those hips, and sing along to a broad repertoire of uplifting beats, from the classic This Little Light of Mine to their very own Christmas medleys – guaranteed to bring on a joyful holiday mood. www.ev-apostelpauluskirchengemeinde.de

BERLIN CHRISTMAS BIKE TOUR SATURDAY

Help those less fortunate as Berlin bikers take to the streets dressed as Santa Claus. From their starting point in Steglitz, the rumbling convoy of jolly bikers rides around delivering goodies to homeless shelters and charities around town, making pit stops at Christmas markets to rustle up donations. www.berlin-christmas-biketour.de

THE NUTCRACKER FROM FRIDAY

One of the most beloved ballets of all time, Tchaikovsky’s The Nutcracker delivers a very magical holiday mood every year. When the curtain opens, the Stahlbaum family is celebrating Christmas, but moments later, the audience steps into little Clara’s dreamtime world of toy soldiers coming to life. Be enchanted by dancing chocolates and candy canes, the beautiful Sugar Plum Fairy, and the stunning 19th-century stage set and costumes. Performed by the Staatsballet at Deutsche Oper throughout December. www.staatsballett-berlin.de

www.wheretraveler.com 9

DECEMBER

CAROL SINGING WITH THE FOOTBALL FANS SATURDAY

The super-passionate fans of Berlin soccer team FC Union are so committed that every December they get together by the thousands at their home stadium "An der alten Försterei" in Köpenick, not for a game, but to sing German Christmas carols! Tickets are only available to the public after sales to club members, so hurry up if you want to secure one of the few spots left! www.fc-union-berlin.de

BERLINER SILVESTERLAUF SUNDAY

Before heading off to the big party, end the year sportily and donning a silly costume at the annual NYE fun run. The so-called Pfannkuchen (doughnut) race takes place around Teufelsberg in the Grunewald forest, with different routes to choose from depending on your fitness level. Upon completion you will be rewarded with a traditional jam doughnut. www.berliner-silvesterlauf.de

BVG CHRISTMAS TRAIN

FROM SATURDAY

Even the BVG, Berlin’s public transport system, is getting in on a little Christmas action. For each Advent weekend, the transport company has scheduled in special trains in which Santa Claus and his little helpers will distribute presents and an all-around merry spirit amongst its young passengers. You won’t be able to miss the festively decorated retro trains departing from U-Bahnhof Biesdorf Süd (U5) at 10am, 12pm, and 2pm. Booking essential by calling T: 03025625256. www.bvg.de 10 W H E R E B E R L I N I D E C E M B E R 2017

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31

HOT DATES

Start off the month with a holiday classic: The Nutcracker ballet at Deutsche Oper. Famed pop cello duo 2CELLOS entertains the crowds at Mercedes-Benz Arena tonight. The fun, lively Best of Swing concert at Konzerthaus is sure to get your toes tapping. Hear some cool music at the Experimontag event at Kreuzberg's Madame Claude bar. Catch a film at CineStar Potsdamer Platz, which specializes in movies in English. Join the family-friendly St. Nicholas Day concert at the lovely Berliner Dom cathedral. British comedian Ricky Gervais gets the crowds laughing at Tempodrom this evening. Night owls, this is for you: the Night Concert event at Komische Oper starts at 11pm. Be dazzled by wild BMX motocross tricks at the Night of Freestyle show at Velodrom. Hear all of Mozart's best-loved compositions at the Konzerthaus's Mozart Matinee show. At Komische Oper, the Staatsballett takes on modern choreography in Duato/Schechter. Admire the famous bust of Nefertiti, queen of Ancient Egypt, at the Neues Museum. Explore art history in the Surreal Worlds exhibition at Sammlung Scharf-Gerstenberg. Feast on international delicacies at the Street Food Thursday event at Markthalle Neun. Craft beer fans: Check out the unbelievable range of brews on tap at Hopfenreich bar. Prepare to be dazzled: The beloved Roncalli Christmas Circus starts today at Tempodrom. Antique lovers definitely should not miss the weekly Sunday flea market at Arkonaplatz. Mozart's much-loved opera The Magic Flute takes the stage tonight at Komische Oper. Feel the thudding beat of Japan's Yamato Drummers troupe at Admiralspalast. Take a musical lunch break at the Philharmonie's free "lunch concert" at 1pm. Pop in to the Konzerthaus for the afternoon Espresso Konzert – it's "caffeine for the ears"! Oh happy day! The Harlem Gospel Night choir is singing at Apostel-Paulus Church. Soak up the holiday spirit at the charming Gendarmenmarkt Christmas Market in Mitte. Take an exhilarating ride down the ice slide at the Winter World on Potsdamer Platz. Merry Xmas! Visit the spectacular Christmas Garden light show at the Botanical Gardens. The Ballet Revolución show at Admiralspalast blends ballet with hip hop and R&B. Head to the Alte Nationalgalerie for Small Masterpieces, a show of mini oil portraits. The local Big Band Kameleon plays a lively swing show in the Passionskirche tonight. Berlin's Philharmonic plays a festive concert in their home concert hall this evening. Warm up with a spin around the ice at the Alexanderplatz Rotes Rathaus skating rink. Hang at Brandenburg Gate to ring in the new year with fireworks and entertainment.

For more ideas, see our Entertainment section.

RONCALLI CHRISTMAS CIRCUS: COURTESY OF RONCALLI CHRISTMAS CIRCUS; THE HARLEM GOSPEL SINGERS, PHOTO BY THOMMY MARDO; CHRISTMAS BIKE TOUR AND DOUGHNUTS: © ISTOCK; THE NUTCRACKER: COURTESY OF STAATSBALLETT; FC UNION: COURTESY OF FC UNION; CHRISTMAS TRAIN: PHOTO BY ISARSTEVE VIA FLICKR.COM.

WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

Opera

THE WONDERS OF The Staatsoper Unter den Linden is open again after lengthy renovations. Solveig Steinhardt spoke with the new general artistic director, Matthias Schulz, to find out more.

12 W H E R E B E R L I N I D E C E M B E R 2017

WHERE NOW | OPERA

MATTHIAS SCHULZ: © MARTIN LENGEMANN / WELT24. BUILDING FACADE: © CHRISTIAN VON STEFFELIN; WORK IN PROGRESS: © ALEXANDRA SELL; APOLLOSAAL: © ALEXAN DRA SELL; BOHEME IMAGES: © MONIKA RITTERSHAUS.

Opposite page: The facade of the Staatsoper. This photo and below: renovations in progress. Bottom images: scenes from La Bohème.

t took seven years, but Berlin's cultural scene has now entered a new era: The renovated Staatsoper on Unter den Linden reopened in October with a host of performances that were only a prelude to the official inauguration of the main concert hall, scheduled for 7 December. Those who attend the opening that day will also be celebrating the theater's 275th birthday.

three Opernhäuser complement each other in offering the city a diverse opera scene, with performances and sets ranging from the traditional to avant-garde, and Schulz assures there is no competition between the three. "We talk to each other every month. We each aim to offer a very rich opera life, but also coordinate our programs in order not have the same premieres within two years of each other, for example." According to Matthias Schulz, the Staatsoper's main advantage is that it's right in the middle of what is quickly turning into the city's cultural heart, between Museum Island, the Humboldtforum, and Humboldt University, and near other musical institutions such as the Pierre-Boulez Saal and the Konzerthaus. Staatsoper Intendant

The Staatsoper Unter den Linden is the oldest of Berlin's three opera houses, and has always been renowned for the high caliber of its resident orchestra, the Staatskapelle, nowadays conducted by Daniel Barenboim. Before WWII, the Staatsoper was the city's main opera theater, flanked by the nearby Komische Oper, Matthias Schulz. which focused on lighter Schulz's mandate will begin performances such as operetta, next April, but he is already at work a type of musical comedy. When the to plan the new season, and new fate, of the Berlin Wall was built, it confined both the Staatsoper. He says the theater's program Staatsoper and the Komische Oper to the will go well beyond the Strauss, Verdi, and Eastern part of the city, forcing West Berlin Wagner operas that have always been the to build its own opera house, the Deutsche stronghold of the house's tradition. Schulz Oper, erected in Charlottenburg in 1961. wants to add more Mozart to the mix, but also give voice to Baroque opera with works Today, there are no more walls to keep by brilliant composers such as the Sicilian the opera houses apart, so the question Alessandro Scarlatti and French theorist and arises: Does Berlin really need three opera opera master Jean-Philippe Rameau. houses? According to the Staatsoper's incoming general artistic director, Matthias But most of all, the 39-year-old Intendant, Schulz, it does. "For a city with 3.8 million who has already managed Salzburg's people like Berlin, having this many opera Mozarteum Foundation for five years, wants houses is nearly a necessity," he says. The to make opera as accessible as possible.

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WHERE NOW | OPERA

PERFORMANCES OF THE MONTH Hänsel und Gretel, a late-1800s fairytale with music by Engelbert Humperdinck and a Christmastime favorite in Germany.

9, 10, 13 December

L'Incoronazione di Poppea, a dramatic opera by Claudio Monteverdi, a composer considered a crucial transitional figure between the Renaissance and the Baroque. Daniel Barenboim, conductor of the Staatskapelle.

14, 17 December

Scenes from Goethe's Faust, Schumann's tumultuous rendition of Goethe's literary masterpiece.

22, 27, 30 December

La Bohème by Giacomo Puccini portrays young bohemians living in 1840 Paris.

26 December

Mozart's Magic Flute: this sublime fairytale embodies the spirit and culture of the European Enlightenment.

14 W H E R E B E R L I N I D E C E M B E R 2017

The renovated main concert hall.

"Going to the opera means challenging all ceiling was raised by four meters to add your senses without having to have a huge a reverberation gallery, which was then baggage of knowledge. This is why it should veiled with an acoustically transparent be something for everyone, both old and and aesthetically stunning porcelain young – and that's something we have to net that perfectly matches the theater's work on." And it shouldn't be too hard in a style and has become the symbol of the culture-thirsty city such as Berlin. Berliners new Staatsoper. To increase comfort, the are curious and passionate about all kinds of number of seats was cut down from 1398 artistic performances: "The fascinating thing to 1356. The administration building across about the Berlin audience is that it the square was renovated too, and could not be more diverse. It an underground tunnel was The Drei Damen is certainly less formal than built between the rehearsal of The Magic Flute. in other cities – just look rooms and the stage. It's at what they wear – but a great improvement this doesn't mean that for the musicians, who they don’t take on a no longer have to certain attitude when walk outside before a they go to the opera. performance. It would be boring to try to merely shock The Staatsoper's the audience – so 275th birthday concert much has already been on 7 December will done here. If you want to inaugurate the theater's surprise the audience you new life with a program need to find the right way to including Mendelssohn, do it." Strauss, and Boulez, all composers who have personally performed and The Staatsoper was built in 1742, but was conducted at the Staatsoper in the past. destroyed by fire in 1843 and struck twice The next day, the opera season will begin by Allied bombs during WWII. It was rebuilt with the premiere of Humperdinck's Hänsel in the 1950s following the original rococo und Gretel, a fairytale often associated with design combined with GDR elements and Christmas, followed by a diverse program of materials, but groundwater infiltrations opera masterpieces. According to Schulz, made the recent renovations necessary. "A society that's developing opera at high The aim of the restoration was to provide levels of quality is a healthy society" – and a historically appropriate rehabilitation Berlin seems to be doing great. of the building as a whole, renew the Unter den Linden. stage, update the house's technology, and T: 030 20354555. enhance acoustics. In order to do that, the www.staatsoper-berlin.de

COURTESY OF STAATSOPER UNTER DEN LINDEN.

8, 11, 12, 23, 25, 29 December

As twilight falls, the magic begins ...

BASED ON THE

ORIGINAL

„CHRISTMAS AT KEW“ IN LONDON!

NEW TRAIL

with 30 highlights and a great ice rink

16.11.17 - 07.01.18 BOTANICAL GARDEN BERLIN WWW.CHRISTMAS-GARDEN.DE

Tickets are available at as well as at the box office at the Botanical Garden Berlin or ar any established ticket agency. *(EUR 0.20 / call from a German landline / a maximum of EUR 0.60 / call from a German mobile line)

Luisa Weiss samples the best of Berlin’s bakeries and confectioners.

1. KONDITOREI BUCHWALD Konditorei Buchwald is the oldest pastry shop in Berlin. Founded in 1852 by Gustav Buchwald in Cottbus, Buchwald specializes in Baumkuchen, a delicate, many-layered cake baked on a spit and enrobed in a white sugar glaze or a thin layer of chocolate. Buchwald delivers its famed Baumkuchen – whole, sliced, or in chunks – to homesick Berliners all over the world. A visit to the café on a leafy corner in Moabit allows one to sample Buchwald’s impressive array of tortes and cakes while having a hot drink in the old-fashioned tea room. Special tip: On New Year’s Eve, Buchwald sells the city’s best jam-filled doughnuts, handmade and fried in clarified butter. Bartningallee 29. www.konditorei-buchwald.de 16 W H E R E B E R L I N I D E C E M B E R 2017

Above: two different types of Baumkuchen. This photo: Heinz Weichardt at work .

BAUMKUCHEN: © ISTOCK. HEINZ WEICHARDT: COURTESY OF WEICHARDT.

intertime in Berlin can be a dark and dreary affair. The best way to cheer up in the cold is to stop at one of the city's best bakeries for a sweet treat and a cup of piping hot coffee or tea. In the weeks before Christmas, many bakeries do a roaring business selling traditional Stollen, Lebkuchen, and Baumkuchen, among many other delicious confections. Here are a few of our favorite bakeries and shops that still do things the old-fashioned way.

2. WEICHARDT Weichardt, one of Berlin’s oldest organic bakeries, grinds its own flours on enormous stone grindstones displayed in the window of their bakery in a quiet corner of Wilmersdorf. Heinz and Mucke Weichardt, the husband-and-wife team who run the place, met as teenagers decades ago, when Heinz was a young pastry apprentice. Their hearty wholegrain loaves and rolls, all made with organic, fair-trade flour, inspire fierce loyalty, as do their tortes, cookies and other sweet treats. According to local tradition, their Honigkuchenteig, from which their Lebkuchen hearts are made, is prepared in May and left to sit for months before being baked in late November. During the Advent season, stop in for aromatic gingerbread hearts coated in chocolate or a slice of poppy seed cake. And if you’re in the neighborhood on a Saturday morning any time of year, make sure to snag a piece of Heinz’s famed Schoko-Sahne Torte, which sells out by noon. Mehlitzstr. 7. www.weichardt.de

MOHNKUCHEN: COURTESY OF WEICHHARDT; LEBKUCHEN: © ISTOCK; WALD KÖNIGSBERGER MARZIPAN: COURTESY OF WALD KÖNIGSBERGER MARZIPAN.

WHERE NOW | HOLIDAY GOODIES

3. HUTZELMANN This cozy neighborhood bakery nestled away on a quiet stretch of Charlottenburg’s bustling Wilmersdorfer Straße is a hidden gem. The owner is a descendent of an East Prussian pastry maker who moved to Berlin after the First World War. The bakery’s best offerings include thick slabs of homestyle streusel- and fruit-topped cakes, Silesian specialties like rolled poppy seed cakes and Quark-topped, sugar-spangled fritters, and towering cream cakes all made in the bakery’s cozy “Backstube” in the back of the house, where the intoxicating scent of butter and sugar wafts out to perfume the whole street. Wilmersdorfer Str. 19. www.hutzelmann-schlesischebackstube.de

Top left: Weichardt's Mohnkuchen. This photo: Lebkuchen; Below: a tray of marzipan delights from Wald Königsberger Marzipan.

4. WALD KÖNIGSBERGER MARZIPAN The tradition of making Königsberger marzipan, exquisitely molded and broiled marzipan confections, often decorated with fondant icing, candied cherries, and chocolate, comes from the East Prussian city formerly known as Königsberg (today’s Kaliningrad) and dates back to the 19th century. On Pestalozzistraße in Charlottenburg, a tiny jewel box of a shop specializing in these old-fashioned treats has been doing a roaring business for decades, supplying fans of Königsberger marzipan all over the world with their favorite candies. Opened by the East Prussian Wald couple in 1947, the store is still family-owned and -run. Pestalozzistr. 54a. www.wald-koenigsbergermarzipan.de

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WHERE NOW | GIFT GUIDE

Sugar Pink luxury cookware

Dotted bow

Classy jewelry

Le Creuset, Friedrichstraße 191. www.lecreuset.de

Marc Cain, Mall of Berlin, Voßstr. 35. www.marc-cain.com

Aris Diamond, Mall of Berlin, Voßstr. 35. www.arisdiamond.com

Perfect presents A little bit of holiday luxury.

Black leather briefcase

Classy frames

A set of colorful plaids

Montblanc, Friedrichstr. 80. www.montblanc.com

Porsche Design, Kurfürstendamm 48. www.porsche-design.com

Yves Delorme, Kurfürstendamm 51. www.yvesdelorme.com

For beer lovers: A watch made with traditional beer barrels. Original Grain, www.originalgrain.com

18 W H E R E B E R L I N I D E C E M B E R 2017

To be like Cinderella

"Urbino" porcelain tea cup

Unützer, Giesebrechtstr. 10. www.unuetzer.com

KPM, Kurfürstendamm 27. www.kpm-berlin.com

Enchanting glass ornaments for everlasting memories When the first snowflakes are falling and festive decoration is lighting Potsdam, the enchanting Christmas time is approaching. This is the moment for which our experienced glass-blowers and talented painters manufacture mouth-blown and hand painted ornaments fashioned with great attention to detail in our INGE-GLAS ® Manufaktur in Neustadt near Coburg in Northern Bavaria. These high-quality glass Christmas balls and ornaments topped with the Star Crown are offered all the year round in our INGE-GLAS ® Manufaktur Shop Potsdam. Moreover you can discover a lot of further exclusive products: from decorative items to individual gift ideas. Opening hours:

NEW!

Potsdam

CHRISTMAS-SHOP Am Holländer-Viertel Nauener Tor Friedrich-Ebert-Straße 86 Phone: +49 331-23624844

November and December Mon. - Sat. 10 am to 7 pm January - October Mon. - Sat. 10.30 am to 6 pm Sundays open for business 1 pm to 6 pm

HANDMADE IN GERMANY www.inge-glas.de

WHERE NOW | GIFT GUIDE

The classic Helioro ring

Dapper shoes

Art deco tableware

Wempe, Kurfürstendamm 214-215. www.wempe.com

Marc Cain, Mall of Berlin, Voßstr. 35. www.marc-cain.com

Rosenthal, Kurfürstendamm 200. www.rosenthal.de

Perfect presents

For the art of writing

A bottle of local gin

Montblanc, Friedrichstr. 80. www.montblanc.com

Berliner Brandstifter, Wallstr. 86. www.brandstifter.com

Couch pillow with an attitude Pad Concept Flagship Store, Rochstr. 18 www.padconcept.com

A classic: Chanel N° 5

Geometric shades

Chrome-plated thermos

Karstadt, Kurfürstendamm 231. www.karstadt.de

Mykita, BIKINI Mall, Budapester Str. 45. www.mykita.com

Alfi, Karstadt, Kurfürstendamm 231. www.karstadt.de

20 W H E R E B E R L I N I D E C E M B E R 2017

autumn/winter 20 7/18 A

n S o p

Showroom Ellen Eisemann 01. - 02. Dec. 2017 08. - 09. Dec. 2017 10:00 am - 06:00 pm Monumentenstraße 33-34 10829 Berlin

Shops in Berlin Meyer & Nehls Bleibtreustr. 13 10623 Berlin

Hirschmann Mode Güntzelstr. 43 14057 Berlin

Maaßenstr. 12 10777 Berlin

Tatem

Oranienburger Str. 32 10117 Berlin Welfenallee 7 13465 Berlin Stargarder Str. 78 10437 Berlin

Belushis

Baseler Str. 1 12205 Berlin

Leder Art

Bölschestr. 50 1287 Berlin onlineshop: ellen-eisemann.shop to find a shop in your city - check it out: ellen-eisemann.com

SHOPPING | THE GUIDE Left: an arty gift idea at the Zeugmesse; This photo: Naschmarkt; inset and bottom right: Holy S*** Shopping; bottom left: The Zeughausmesse at the Deutsches Historisches Museum.

Annabelle Mallia added some arts and crafts to her gift-giving experience. Berliners are spoiled for choice when it comes to Christmas markets. It is hard to miss the crowds on the beautiful Gendarmenmarkt, the festive cheer taking over Alexanderplatz, or the winter wonderland at Potsdamer Platz with its very own toboggan run. But for a unique take on mulled wine, candied apples, bratwurst, and presents galore for under the Christmas tree, head to the following festive locations:

Holy S*** Shopping – 16 & 17 Dec (Treptow) Definitely the coolest Christmas market of them all. For one weekend, hundreds of designers, artists, and other creatives offer their products for sale at the Arena Berlin venue while DJs play electronic beats in the background. With mulled wine in hand, visitors can dance around this industrial building and tick trendy fashion, jewelry, and home accessories off their Christmas shopping list.

Alt-Rixdorfer Market – 1 to 3 Dec (Neukölln) This nostalgic Christmas market around Richardplatz takes visitors back to the 19th century. At the heart is a hard-at-work blacksmith, churning out horseshoes for good luck, and more than 100 charitable organizations presenting handmade toys and gifts made out of wood, metal, ceramic, or wax. Highlights for the kids include Santa Claus with his angels, a fairytale witch, pony rides, and a visit by the Three Wise Men and their camels.

Lucia Christmas Market – 27 Nov to 23 Dec (Prenzlauer Berg) The historic courtyards of the Kulturbrauerei brewery form a spectacular backdrop to this Scandinavian-themed market. Named after the saint of light, the market features Swedish Christmas carols, log candles, a nostalgic chain carousel for children, Icelandic mulled wine, and lots of Scandinavian-themed stands. The hallmark offering, however, is the so-called “open-air coat heater”, an installation where market-goers can fight off the bitter cold.

22 W H E R E B E R L I N I D E C E M B E R 2017

Zeughausmesse – 7–10 Dec (Mitte) It's always good to combine some culture with shopping. Every December, the indoor courtyard of the Deutsches Historisches Museum welcomes dozens of artists and their market stands, hawking everything from pottery and design objects to clothing, accessories, and jewelry. Naschmarkt – 3 Dec (Kreuzberg) Deriving its name from the German verb naschen (to nibble), the Berlin Naschmarkt in the historical Markthalle IX offers the opportunity to do just that. At this Christmas edition of the Berlin Sweets Market, more than 40 local pastry, chocolate, and sweets manufacturers will serve their scrumptious creations – and all must adhere to Slow Food quality criteria, which means that every tart, macaron, and cake pop is prepared according to the highest standards our sweet-toothed loved ones deserve.

COURTESY OF ZEUGHAUSMESSE: HOLY S*** SHOPPING: PHOTOS BY ANNIKA BOERM; NASCHMARKT: CPOURTESY OF NASCHMARKT.

Not Just Another Christmas Market

SHOPPING

THE

where GUIDELINES

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Every effort is made to provide accurate and updated information. However, information may be subject to last minute changes, so it is always advisable to call ahead.

INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS T: Telephone number S: S-Bahn, Above-ground train system U: U-Bahn, Underground train system MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 71–73. OPENING HOURS Opening hours may vary, so it’s best to call ahead. Shops are open Mon–Sat only, and Sunday shopping is only possible on certain Sundays of the year. This year, these are: 3 December, 17 December. Groceries can be bought on Sundays at major train stations (Hauptbahnhof, Friedrichstraße, at Ullrich at Zoologischer Garten, or Ostbahnhof ). Shopping malls are open 10am–8pm and smaller stores only until 6pm. TOURIST INFORMATION VisitBerlin is the official source of information on the city. Call T: 030.25002333 for specific Berlin information, or go to www.visitberlin.de for details on all information centers, events, and sights. Tourist Info Points: Brandenburg Gate – Pariser Platz, daily 9:30am–6pm (until 7pm in summer). Hauptbahnhof – Europaplatz 1, Level 0, daily 8am–9pm. TV Tower Alexanderplatz – Panoramastr. 1a, daily 10am–4pm.

DEPARTMENT STORES & MALLS Alexa Hardcore shoppers love this mall for its sheer size, with over 180 stores spread over five levels. Highstreet retailers are well represented, and a large food court obliges when hunger overwhelms your desire to shop. www.alexacentre.com. Grunerstr. 20. T: 030.269340121. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

BIKINI BERLIN BIKINI BERLIN combines shopping with a fun and relaxing experience. The historical building complex in Berlin's west end makes for interesting strolls, also offering beautiful views of the Berlin zoo and its animals, which can be admired both from indoors as well as from the rooftop terrace. But the main attraction is the curated selection of shops, which include individual pop-up boxes frequently showcasing new designers, popular brands, and many design stores. www.bikiniberlin. de. Budapester Str. 38-50. T: 030.55496455. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

COURTESY OF DAWANDA

Designer Outlet Berlin Your favorite designer brands with discounts up to 70 percent, at just 30 minutes from the city center. Also features cafes and restaurants, a children’s play area, free parking and more that 100 international brands. Shuttle bus from center on Fri-Sat. Bring a copy of Where Berlin to the office and get a further 10% off. Mon–Thu 10am–7pm, Fri and Sat to 8pm. www.designeroutletberlin.com. Alter Spandauer Weg 1. T: 033234.9040. Take the regional train to Elstal. Off Map

Europa Center This shopping mall on the Ku’damm offers a range of goods from over 70 shops. Check out the

ingenious water clock designed by Bernard Gitton in 1982. www.europa-center-berlin.de. Tauentzienstr. 9–12. T: 030.26497940. U Kurfürstendamm, U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Galeria Kaufhof The former East German department store, renovated in 2006, showcases more than 600 exclusive brands and an exquisite gourmet section covering 35,000sq.m (377,000sq.ft) of space. www.galeria-kaufhof.de. Alexanderplatz 9. T: 030.247430. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Galeries Lafayette The Berlin branch of the exclusive Parisian department store is developed around an extraordinary glass cone. The three circular floors rise up around this centerpiece, packed with perfumes, clothing, and accessories. The food counter offers a wide range of French specialties and there’s a corner selling teas from the famed French tea house Mariage Frères. www.galerieslafayette.de. Friedrichstr. 76–78. T: 030.209480. U Französische Straße. E3

Kaufhaus des Westens (KaDeWe) The biggest and oldest department store in Germany sells only products of the highest quality. If you're short on time, the legendary gourmet food hall on the sixth floor is not to be missed. www.kadewe.de. Tauentzienstr. 21–24. T: 030.21210. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Mall of Berlin 270 shops, 270 apartments, gyms, and pedestrian areas define the new Mall of Berlin on Leipziger Platz, a world of shopping opportunities a stone’s throw from the city’s main tourist attractions. www.mallofberlin.de.Leipziger Platz 12. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Potsdamer Platz Arkaden This large shopping center offers more than 120 shops over three floors, stocking everything from clothes and accessories to electronics and groceries. Its restaurants and bars, both inside and

in surrounding streets, also make it a very popular meeting spot. www.potsdamer-platz-arkaden.de. Alte Potsdamer Str. 7. T: 030.2559270. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

FASHION Annette Görtz Inspired by geometric lines and the use of "noncolors" such as black, beige, white, and gray, fashion brand Annette Görtz combines comfort with understated elegance. www.annettegoertz. com. T: 030 20074613. Markgrafenstr. 42. U Stadtmitte. E3

Basler Founded in Berlin in 1936 and now sold around the globe, Basler stands for femininity and versatility, aiming to make women of all ages and sizes look and feel good. From everyday style to business casual to something elegant for a night out, you’ll find plenty to add to your wardrobe. Second store at Schloßstr. 28. www.basler-fashion.com. Kurfürstendamm 220. T: 030.88472949. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Beatrice von Tresckow Sumptuous, elegant, somewhat extravagant. Beatrice Von Tresckow women's clothes are lively and colorful, an eye-catching addition to any wardrobe. www.beatricevontresckow.com, Leibnizstr. 60. T: 030 308318. U Adenauer Platz. C4

Be Edgy With rule-breaking elements and a timeless soul, this Berlin-born fashion label makes perfectly cut leather jackets and a variety of accessories meant for rebellious and cheeky boys and girls. www.be.edgy.de. Bleibtreustr. 27. T: 0176.61137540. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Boggi Milano Italian elegance for men. Specializes in highquality suits that are formal while also remaining comfortable, and also carries a sport casual

Made With Love If you’re looking for cool designer items that no one else has, an original gift, or handcrafted products for the kids and you want to support artists at the same time, then DaWanda is the place to go. Founded in 2006, this Berlin startup is now the biggest online marketplace for personalized presents and inspiring handmade products in Europe, with over 300,000 manufactures and six million registered users selling and buying everything from clothes and jewelry to toys and furniture. But for those who prefer to see and touch their objects of desire in 3D, visit their offline showroom, the Snuggery. Curious and colorful, it’s not only a fun spot to browse hundreds of heartfelt items, but also a place to exchange ideas with like-minded creative individuals. Windscheidstr. 18. T: 030 22380933. www.dawanda.com

www.wheretraveler.com 23

SHOPPING

3 1

HAPPY NEW YEAR! Get dressed for a classy New Year's Eve. 9

7 5

6 1. Sif Jacobs, Galeria Kaufhof, Alexanderplatz 9. 2. Marc Cain, Mall of Berlin, Voßstr. 35. 3. Mykita, Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 6. 4. Tiger of Sweden, Kurfürstendamm 29.

24 W H E R E B E R L I N I D E C E M B E R 2017

5. Unützer, Giesebrechtstr. 10. 6. LAPPONIA, Jens Richard, Kurfürstendamm 63. 7. Marc Cain, Mall of Berlin, Voßstr. 35. 8. Tiger of Sweden, Kurfürstendamm 29. 9. Joop, KaDeWe, Tauentzienstr. 26.

SHOPPING

LUXURY BRANDS AIGNER www.aignermunich.com. Kurfürstendamm 50. T: 030.88683668. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BALLY www.bally.com. Kurfürstendamm 52. T: 030.88707688. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BOGGI MILANO www.boggi.it. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BOSS www.hugoboss.com. Friedrichstr. 165. T: 030.20613890. U Französische Straße. E3

BUCHERER www.bucherer.com. Friedrichstr. 45. T: 030.2041049. U Kochstraße. E4

BULGARI www.bulgari.com. Kurfürstendamm 190-192. T: 030.8857920. U Uhlandstraße. B4

EMPORIO ARMANI www.armani.com. Friedrichstr. 169-170. T: 030 20615660. U Stadtmitte. E3

CHOPARD www.chopard.com Kurfürstendamm 54. T: 030 70096980. U Uhlandstraße. B4

ESCADA www.escada.com. Kurfürstendamm 195. T: 030.88923815. U Uhlandstraße. B4

MAURICE LACROIX www.mauricelacroix.de. Friedrichstr. 166. T: 030.33024852. U Französische Straße. E3

MCM www.mcmworldwide.com. Rosenthaler Str. 38. T: 030.28493793. S Hackescher Markt. F2

ROLEX www.rolex.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.55669010. U Adenauerplatz. B4

WEMPE www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.8826878. U Adenauerplatz. B4

collection. www.boggi.com. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

standards. www.shop-gobi.com/en/. Knesebeckstr. 30. T: 030.22466513. U Uhlandstraße. E2

By Anne

Goldsteg Designer Outlet

By Anne offers designer fashion from sought-after European labels such as cool Danish brand NÜ, Beate Heymann Street Couture, playful Spanish label Uno Piu Uno, and bags from By Lou Lou, together with other accessories to complement your new outfit. Unique art pieces are also on sale to help you express your individuality in the home or garden. www.byanne.de. Rosenthaler Str. 31. T: 030.28879436. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Cotélac The French just have that certain je ne sais quoi when it comes to style. Laid-back, breezy, comfortable, and nonetheless elegant, the Cotélac collections capture that quintessential French style in clothing and accessories for both women and men. Brand hallmarks are fine fabrics, subtle details and unique prints created with special dye and fabric techniques. Mulackstr. 6. T: 030 53604074. www.cotelac.fr. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Marc Cain A worldwide premium brand for women’s fashion with its own production facility in Germany. Marc Cain effortlessly combines aesthetics and innovation in design and materials, making a declaration of love to women. www.marc-cain.com. Friedrichstr. 61. See website for more locations. T: 030.20077219. U Stadtmitte. E3

MaxMara

Our/Vodka: Vodka made in Berlin. Am Flutgraben 2.

Evelin Brandt This Berlin designer creates unique fashion for stylish women, including oversize fashion. www.evelin-brandt.de. Friedrichstr. 153A. T: 030 2044444. U Französische Straße. E3

designer depot This boutique in Mitte offers selected designer fashion, shoes, and accessories for men and ladies at up to 50 percent off. There are more than 30 international labels such as Calvin Klein, Iceberg, Roberto Cavalli, and Valentino. www.designer-depot.net. Rochstr. 2. T: 030.28046700. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Finn's Mode This tiny store near Savignyplatz stocks a large variety of fashion items with a personality, for women "who know who they are and like to dress well." Brands include Piazza Sempione, Zenggi, Cambio, Le Tricot Perugia, and more, and the selection ranges from dresses and skirts to accessories like shoes and bags. www.finns-mode.de. Bleibtreustr. 47. T: 030.8832202. U Uhlandstraße B4

Ganni Berlin Founded in Copenhagen, Ganni carries easy-towear pieces for women with an attitude who like to mix things up. Elegant and effortless clothing, lingerie, accessories, and shoes. www.ganni.com. Alte Schönhauser Str. 6. T: 030.27590966. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Gobi Cashmere © ISTOCK

This outlet store carries one-of-a-kind fashion pieces, exciting accessories and high-quality Italian leather bags by a wide range of designers. www.goldsteg.de. Carmerstr. 8. T: 030 51307933. S Savignyplatz. B4

The first European store of this luxury Mongolian cashmere manufacturer opened in December 2016 to bring organic, high-quality cashmere fashion and fabrics produced in Asia to the highest

One of the oldest and most prestigious Italian fashion houses, known for its quality craftsmanship and ready-to-wear clothing. www.maxmara. com. Friedrichstr. 184, T: 030.20074945. U Stadtmitte. E3; Kurfürstendamm 178. T: 030.8852545. U Adenauerplatz. B4

Michael Kors The New York-based designer Michael Kors is known for his ready-to-wear fashion and luxury accessories – bags, watches, jewelry, shoes, and other award-winning designs. www.michaelkors. com. Kurfürstendamm 219. T: 030.81825760. U Uhlandstraße. C4; Rosenthaler Str. 37. T: 030.24088690. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Michael Sontag The Berlin designer sets himself apart with his masterful draping techniques, creating simple yet flattering feminine silhouettes out of flowing fabrics with equal measures of elegance and sex appeal. www.michaelsontag.com. Muskauer Str. 41. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

Onepiece A popular Norwegian brand, best known for its jumpsuits, beloved by celebrities. Comfortable pants, hoodies, shirts, and dresses complete the offering. www.onepiece.com. Litfaßplatz 1. T: 030.27580644. S Hackescher Markt. F3

Patrick Hellmann Among the most successful luxury brands in the fashion world, Patrick Hellmann stands for timelessness, elegant designs, quality materials, and extravagant details. There are also clothes by Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior, and Dolce & Gabbana. www.patrick-hellmann.com. Kurfürstendamm 190–192. T: 030.88487711. U Adenauerplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

Strellson This Swiss company creates fashion for men who are on their way up or, as they say, for young men with big plans. Concentrating on clarity, the Strellson philosophy is based on clear cuts and top quality for their suits and other urban wears, as well as transparent values and work attitudes. www.wheretraveler.com 25

SHOPPING

3 1

DASHING DUDS The new year deserves an elegant new look. 8

1. Porsche Design, Kurfürstendamm 48. 2. Tiger of Sweden, Kurfürstendamm 29. 3. Porsche Design, Kurfürstendamm 48. 4. Tiger of Sweden, Kurfürstendamm 29.

26 W H E R E B E R L I N I D E C E M B E R 2017

5. Joop Men, KaDeWe, Tauentzienstr. 26. 6. CINQUE, Mall of Berlin, Voßstr. 35. 7 and 8. Tiger of Sweden, Kurfürstendamm 29.

M E R RY CHRISTMAS ALEXA AT ALEXANDERPLATZ MO - SA 10am - 9pm OPEN ON SUNDAYS: FOOD COURT AND LEISURE AREA SUNDAY SHOPPING: 03.12. & 17.12. | 1 PM â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 6 PM

ALEXACENTRE.COM

SHOPPING

ADVERTORIAL

Santa Is Coming To Town! It's time to deck the halls with boughs of holly, but also with a good dose of Santa-inspired objects for the home. French design emporium Pylones has created a line inspired by everybody's favorite holiday, with Santa-themed kitchen utensils, red cases, stationery, plates, and other products designed to simultaneously boost your Christmas spirit and embellish your house. And with dozens of other patterns and many animal-inspired gadgets and design objects, Pylones is a celebration of color, nature, and joie de vivre! www.pylones.com. Schloßstr. 32/32a. T: 030 92357108. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Kurfürstendamm 225. T: 030 92362488. Mon–Sat 10am–8pm; Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 3. T: 030 80928130. Mon–Sat 10am–8pm.

www.strellson.com. Mall of Berlin. Direct entrance from Voßstraße. T: 030.229088200. U Mohrenstraße. E3

flattering silhouettes. Schlüterstr. 50. T: 030 23363170. www.talbotrunhof.com. U Uhlandstraße, S Savignyplatz. B4

Rebecca Store

Trüffelschwein

With a unique boudoir atmosphere, this concept store is a harmonious medley of European and American designers, including Yigal Azrouel, Vera Wang, and Gas Bijoux. All items are personally selected by owner Rebecca Zehden on her many trips abroad. www.rebecca-berlin.de. Alte Schönhauser Str. 41. T: 030 34620780. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Talbot Runhof Designers Johnny Talbot and Adrian Runhof launched their label in Munich but have since gone global, branching out from glamorous evening gowns into everyday outfits and accessories. Discover the comprehensive range of dresses, separates, and knitwear, plus shoes and accessories in their Charlottenburg boutique. A brand hallmark is the complex, precise cuts and unusual seam placement used to create feminine, 28 W H E R E B E R L I N I D E C E M B E R 2017

The Trüffelschwein man is never overdressed – he simply looks good, with a collection of small niche brands from London, Paris, and New York. www. trueffelschweinberlin.com. Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 21. T: 030.70221225. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

UNIQLO

entrance from Voßstraße. T: 030.229088200. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Wellensteyn Founded in Germany 60 years ago as a brand for workers, Wellensteyn is now a high-class label for quality technical jackets that are also stylish, as well as other items for the outdoor life. www. wellensteyn.com. Europa Center. Tauentzienstr. 9-, 12. T: 030.23927186. U Kurfürstendamm. C4. Grunerstr. 20. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3 T: 030.27583926. Friedrichstr. 58. T: 40744747. U Stadtmitte. E3

Originally a chain of roadside stores in suburban Japan, this brand quickly became an Asian sensation Zalando Outlet Shops are usually closed and has now expanded to trendy The popular online shopping fashion on Sundays, but this urban hubs around the globe. market has a large outlet store in month they will be Their Berlin flagship store has three Berlin, featuring 1000 square meters open on 3 and floors of quality basics and fashion 17 Dec. of fashion and accessories from the for women, men, and children. world's top brands, sold at even lower www.uniqlo.com. Tauentzienstr. 7. prices. www.zalando.de. Köpenicker Str. 20. T: 030 29028260. T: 0800.3300996. U Wittenbergplatz. C4; Leipziger Platz 16. U Schlesiches Tor. G4 S+U Potsdamer Platz. E3; Rosenthaler Str. 42; S Hackescher Markt. F3

Wormland This men’s boutique carries the best German and international brands, catering to a demanding man and offering a variety of styles, from classy to casual, from business to sporty. Brands include Calvin Klein, Black Kaviar, Lee Jeans, and Hugo Boss. www.wormland.de. Mall of Berlin. Direct

SHOES & ACCESSORIES bagatt Milano

Bagatt epitomizes the appreciation for beauty for which Italy is known. With its core philosophy of fine Italian craftsmanship, bagatt Milano applies the highest quality standards to its collection of

Das Licht der ewigen Liebe

880 â&#x201A;¬ Adresse: Leipziger Platz 12 Piazza 1.OG

www.arisdiamond.com Tel:030-55657982

SHOPPING shoes, handbags and accessories. Browse the shelves for contemporary, comfortable looks for everyday wear or elegant heels. Email: bagattberlino@gmail.com. Bikini Berlin: Budapester Str. 38–50. T:030 25759777. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

prototype by German army doctor Klaus Märtens. Check out many designs and colors of the famous boots at Boots & Shoes, from the classic 1460 model, to shiny blue, or floral print. Ballerinas, booties, clothing, and accessories round off the offering. www.drmartens.com. Dircksenstr. 49. T: 0800.2070700. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

BREE For more than three decades, bag manufacturer BREE has stood for an intelligent symbiosis of design, function, and quality. BREE bags are useful, reliable and attractive at the same time, and the designs range from classic to contemporary and everything in between. Most BREE bags are made with natural leather, but the company is also the forerunner in the use of long-lasting synthetic materials, employed in the bike courier bags. www. bree.com. Kurfürstendamm 36. T: 030.92218263. U Uhlandstraße. C4; KaDeWe, Tauentzienstr. 21–24. T: 030.34394754. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Dainese

Boots & Shoes

This legwear shop caters to both men and women with all kinds of socks, stockings, tights, knee-highs, and anything that will keep your legs warm. They also have a good selection of sports

New Era Flagship Store Looking for a new cap? This is the largest and fastest growing headwear producer in the world. There are more than 1000 styles over two floors, ranging from the classic baseball cap to modern designs, including their bestseller 59fifty, popular with the skater and hip hop crowd. www.neweracap.com. An der Spandauer Brücke 7. T: 030.27890578. Hackescher Markt. F2

Falke Flagship Store

PING SPE P O CT H S R THE BARGAIN HUNTER

Flanked by a towering department store, shopping mall, and multi-storey electronics store, Alexanderplatz attracts masses of shoppers with its big labels and chains. S+U Alexanderplatz

THE DESIGN GURU

Numerous labels cluster around Hackescher Markt. Around nearby Mulackstraße is where many local designers have their boutiques and ateliers. S Hackescher Markt

WHERE TO SHOP.

With a total of four shopping malls, including the pleasant Boulevard Berlin, this street in the city’s southwest is a haven for shopping fans. U Schloßstraße

THE BROWSER THE LUXURY SHOPPER

THE MULTI – TASKER Combine sightseeing with premium shopping along Friedrichstraße. Luxury department stores like Galeries Lafayette rub elbows with high-end boutiques and key sites like the Brandenburg Gate, Gendarmenmarkt, and Checkpoint Charlie. S+U Friedrichstraße

Presided over by the venerable KaDeWe department store, Kurfürstendamm and Tauentzienstraße have long been one of Berlin’s major luxury shopping strips. U Kurfürstendamm, U Wittenbergplatz © ISTOCK

Bergmannstraße is made for browsing, with plentiful fashion, home, and lifestyle shops interspersed with cafés for taking a break. Visit Marheinekeplatz market hall for gourmet gift ideas. U Mehringdamm

THE INDIVIDUAL

This Kastanienallee artery leading from Mitte into Prenzlauer Berg is lined with smal small,, independent shops where you’ll discover home décor, design objects, unique souvenirs, and pieces from small fashion labels. U Rosenthaler Platz

Tell us who you are, we'll tell you

THE ACTIVE SHOPPER

THE SHOPAHOLIC

On Sundays, the Mauerpark flea market teems with bargain hunters. The small design and vintage shops on the adjoining Oderberger Straße, meanwhile, are open every other day of the week. U Eberswalder Straße

With their air-cushioned sole, lace-up style, and yellow stitching, the popular Doc Martens boots launched in the UK in 1960 wasc based on a

Not only one of the most trusted names in motorcycle protective gear, Dainese is also the place to get kitted out for equestrian and winter sports. Their famed specialty is stylish, sleek, Italian-designed motorcycle wear such as jackets, boots, and gloves, bringing together durable, timeless leather with modern materials such as Kevlar and titanium. www.dainese.com. Hohenzollerndamm 12. T: 03029672222. U Hohenzollernplatz. C4

accessories and knitwear, as well as delightful kids’ socks. www.falke.com. Kurfürstendamm 36. T: 030.88553565. U Uhlandstraße. B4; Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Str. 12. T: 030.20647995. U Mohrenstraße. E3

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Unützer Elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacturing are what sets Unützer apart from many other shoe brands. Founded 25 years ago, this shoe label stands for elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacture. The boots, pumps, and ballerinas are all made in a small town near Venice according to the century-old Italian tradition. www.unuetzer.com. Giesebrechtstr. 10. T: 030.88916710. U Uhlandstraße. C4

JEWELRY & WATCHES Aris Diamond Since 1906, ARIS has been specializing in diamond jewelry, delivering everything from pendants, necklaces, and earrings, to fabulous engagement rings. Got a special occasion coming up? Check up their new shop in the Mall of Berlin for refined pieces. www.arisdiamond.com. www.mallofberlin. de. Leipziger Platz 12. U Mohrenstraße. E3

ROLEX Boutique One of the most famous brands in luxury, Rolex has been making wristwatches since 1905. First created in England, the company soon moved to Switzerland, and its perfect timepieces are recognized worldwide as the ultimate symbol of elegance and refinement. www.rolex.de. www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.55669010. U Uhlandstraße. E2

Wempe One of the oldest family businesses in Germany is renowned for its passion for fine jewelry and watches, and for its precision timepieces. www.wempe.de. Kurfürstendamm 215. See website for more locations. T: 030.8826878. U Uhlandstraße. C4; Friedrichstr. 82. T: 030.20399920. U Französische Straße. E3 32 W H E R E B E R L I N I D E C E M B E R 2017

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HOME DÉCOR Home on Earth Located in the Hackesche Höfe, this store offers home décor items made from natural materials combined with Scandinavian design. Founded by a German-Danish pair in Barcelona, this is the first store to hit Germany. www.homeonearth.com. Hackesche Höfe/Hof V, Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. T: 030 2834354. S Hackescher Markt F2

KPM Berlin Once upon a time in Berlin, a German king bought a local porcelain factory, and Königliche PorzellanManufaktur was born. Today, the royally founded company is known as KPM Berlin for short, but still makes exquisite, world-renowned porcelain tableware and decorative goods. At its Tiergarten headquarters, the oldest still-running manufactory in the city, visitors can take a tour, take a break in the café, and – of course – shop for beautiful hand-painted porcelain. www.kpm-berlin.com. Wegelystraße 1. T: 030 390090. S Tiergarten. C3

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budgets. Ever since it was launched in 1998, the "art supermarket" has been gathering more and more fans every year because, as its creators say, art makes people happy. Open until 27 January (Mon–Sat 11am–8pm) as a pop-up store inside shopping center The Q. Free entry. Q 205 (The Q.), Friedrichstr. 67–70. www.kunstsupermarkt.de. U Französische Straße. E3

Pylones These household products are created to add a spark to our daily lives, filling it with color and fun. The designers choose zoomorphic themes. www.pylones.com. Kurfürstendamm 225 (check website for other store locations). T: 030.92362488. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Rosenthal One of Germany's most famous white porcelain manufacturers, Rosenthal is synonymous with impeccable quality and high value in tableware and art. Kurfürstendamm. T: 030.88681574. U Uhlandstraße, U Kurfürstendamm. C4

FOOD & GOURMET

Kunstsupermarkt More than 5000 original works of art made by young artists, with prices ranging between €59 and €330. The event's aim is to help aspiring artists become known while also opening the art market to art lovers with smaller

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Find this Dirk Biggenbergs bag at Designer Depot (p. 25).

One of the main market halls over 100 years ago continues to be a culinary highlight, with exquisitequality provisions, many produced organically and regionally. Rounding off the epicurean offerings are crafts, art exhibitions, and guided culinary tours

that include a history of the city’s market halls and samples from vendors. Mon-Fri 8am-8pm, Sat 8am-6pm. www.meine-markthalle.de. Marheinekeplatz 15 T: 030.61286146. U Gneisenaustraße. E5

BEAUTY & WELLNESS Babor Specializing in beauty driven by science, Babor creates skincare solutions for every woman’s unique needs. Top-sellers at the flagship store include vitamin-rich skin serums and deluxe foundations with a lifting effect. www.babor.de. Französische Str. 48. T: 030. 20622222. U Französische Straße. E3

Bad Saarow Therme This thermal complex in the spa town of Bad Saarow offers various treatments including detox mud baths and massages, and has various indoor and outdoor pools. www.bad-saarow.de. Am Kurpark 1. Bad Saarow. T: 033631.8680. Off map

Catherine Nail Salon The popular Catherine nailcare brand now has a nail salon here in Berlin. Stop by or make an appointment for some grooming time between shopping and sightseeing. www.catherine-berlin.de. Knesebeck Str. 35. T: 030. 55214475. U Uhlandstraße. C4

Flaconi A large perfumerie carrying all the best perfume brands as well a myriads of products for the skin and hair as well as makeup. www.flaconi.de. Leipziger Str. 36. T: 030.20674990. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Frau Tonis Parfum The perfume boutique offers scents inspired by the city, like Pure Violet, originally composed for Marlene Dietrich. Take a scent test to find the fragrances that suit you best or ask customize your own bottle. www.frau-tonis-parfum.com. Zimmerstr. 13. T: 030.20215310. U Kochstraße. E4

Parfumsalon An exclusive perfume boutique that has been offering fragrances for more than five decades. The shop's selection include rarities and special aromas, all hand-picked by owner and perfume expert Mario Worms. www.parfumsalon.de. Uhlandstr. 173-174. T: 030.8827306. E3

Tropical Islands Built inside a former Soviet aircraft hanger about an hour from Berlin, this waterpark offers 26-degree temperatures and cocktails on the beach all year round. Explore the rainforest, tropical village, lagoon and sea, waterslides, and whitewater river. www. tropical-islands.de. Tropical-Islands-Allee 1, Krausnick. T: 035477 605050. Off map

ELECTRONICS Sennheiser This German brand stands for innovation in the world of audio electronics, from microphones and speakers to headsets and more. The cuttingedge wireless headphones in particular are prized by pro musicians, DJs, music fans, and gamers alike. Test out all the latest models at the Charlottenburg store. www. sennheiser.com. Tauentzienstr. 17. T: 030.23630162. U Wittenbergplatz. C4 www.wheretraveler.com 33

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AUDIO EXPERIENCE

Visit us Monday to Saturday 10 am to 8 pm

Sennheiser Store Berlin

Tauentzienstr. 17 - 10789 Berlin S-Bahn/U-Bahn Zoologischer Garten U-Bahn Wittenbergplatz

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More than a century of precision craftsmanship comes to the Ku'damm in the form of Germany's first Rolex Boutique. The flagship store offers a distinctive experience, including an exclusive setting and world-class service.

This exclusive perfume boutique has been offering extraordinary fragrances since the 1960s. Mario Worms is an expert in perfume counseling, offering advice on the perfect scent for every client, and the shop's selection includes rare bottles and unusual aromas. Uhlandstr. 173-174. T: 030 8827306 www.parfumsalon.de

Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030 55669010 rolexboutique.berlin@wempe.de 34 W H E R E B E R L I N I D E C E M B E R 2017

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JUICYNAILS

Get your nails in perfect style for all those holiday parties! Juicynails/Freshnails in the Bikini Berlin mall has 4 stations for manicures and 4 for pedicures. Let the team spoil you with treatments ranging from nail art to handcare, footcare, and cosmetics. Only the highest-quality products are used, from brands like essie or ShellacTM. Call for an appointment. Bikini Berlin – Budapester Str. 38, 1st floor. T: 030.25410966. www.juicynails.de

one more reason to go wild this christmas Discover the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s greatest gifts and most stylish wrapping station, only at BIKINI BERLIN

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Knesebeckstr. 35-37. T: 030 55214475 www.catherine-berlin.de

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Set yourself apart from the crowd with fashion and accessories from Planet Berlin, described as "luxury with a touch of rock and roll." They stock classic labels such as Converse and Dr Marten's, as well as new labels like le temps des cerises, whose men's and women's jeans have already achieved cult status. Get ready for your next glamorous night of clubbing.

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Make a good first impression with beautifully manicured hands. This hotspot for hand and nail cosmetics hinges upon expert beauticians and top-quality products from the Catherine Nail Collection. Delivering to beauty salons worldwide, the brand is renowned in nail design and presents their selection now in their own studio just off Berlin’s luxury shopping strip, the Ku’damm.

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Leibnizstr. 60 T: 03030831810 www.beatricevontresckow.com

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Beatrice creates opulent, bold, and colorful clothes for women who like to turn heads. Sumptuous fabrics and detailed embroidery communicate Beatrice's international upbringing and form the hallmarks of the collections' jackets, blouses, and dresses.

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Elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacturing are what sets Unützer apart from many other shoe brands. Founded 25 years ago, this shoe label quickly earned international fame thanks to the excellent quality of its products, which are made in a small town near Venice according to the century-old Italian tradition.

MEYER & NEHLS Spoil yourself at this intimate boutique. Geared towards self-confident, independent women, Meyer & Nehls stocks unique pieces for that special occasion, as well as business and casual attire. If you are looking for fashion advice, owners and style experts Lars and Frank Nehls are there to help.

Bleibtreustr. 13. T: 030 88678578 www.meyerundnehls.de 36 W H E R E B E R L I N I D E C E M B E R 2017

Gold chains, tassels, and striking colors are some of the shoes’ decorative elements, and materials include the whole range of luxury, from the finest calf leather to exotic skins, including crocodile and ostrich, all personally selected by Fritz Unützer himself. Walk into the Charlottenburg boutique and try on a pair of boots, pumps, or ballerinas, all perfect accessories to any glamorous and feminine outfit.

Giesebrechtstr. 10/corner Kurfürstendamm. T: 030 88916710 www.unuetzer.com

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The exclusive Parisian department store brings French charm to Berlin with five floors of fashion, accessories, beauty products and delicacies. Galeries Lafayette is located in the Quartier 207, where you can shop at Butlers, Cashmere House, Le Nails, Le Tanneur, Manon Chocolaterie, Max&Co, Opera´s, and Sathea.

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BABOR INSTITUT Beauty meets science at this skincare institute. Owner and cosmetics expert Christiane Lingner offers high-level treatments such as deluxe facials, skin analyses, purifying sessions, manicures, pedicures, as well as intensive and strengthening treatments for the gentlemen. Head to the flagship store for vitamin-rich serums and foundations with a lifting effect.

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FRAU TONIS PARFUM This perfume manufactory has been described as Berlin’s most unique perfumery. Try classics such as Linde Berlin, or Pure Violet, Marlene Dietrich’s favorite fragrance. For something more personal, join other scent aficionados from all over the world and create your own, private perfume. Zimmerstr. 13 (Checkpoint Charlie). T: 030 20215310 www.frau-tonis-parfum.com www.wheretraveler.com 37

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...and the biggest Foodhall.

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Selected shops for the Savvy Shopper 38 W H E R E B E R L I N I D E C E M B E R 2017

Berlin

A PLACE FOR HOLIDAY SHOPPING potsdamerplatz.de

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SHOP STOP

COTÉLAC The French have that certain je ne sais quoi when it comes to style. Laid-back, breezy, comfortable, and nonetheless elegant, the Cotélac collections are created by Raphaëlle Cavalli and capture that quintessential French style in clothing and accessories for both women and men. Brand hallmarks are special dyes and folding techniques, inlays, unique prints, and exquisite detail when it comes to treating fabrics. With over 100 boutiques in France and abroad, you can check out the latest Fall-Winter 2017/18 collection in their store on Mulackstraße, Berlin’s so-called designer central.

Mulackstr. 6. T: 030 53604074 www.cotelac.fr

BOOTS & SHOES With their air-cushioned sole, lace-up style, and yellow stitching, the popular Dr. Martens boots have been a fashion statement since 1960. At Boots & Shoes, you can choose from many designs and colors of the legendary boot, plus other brands such as Hunter and Converse.

Dircksenstr. 49. T: 080 02070700 www.drmartens.com SHOP STOP

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KATJES VEGGIE CAFÉ GRÜN-OHR

NEW ERA FLAGSHIP STORE

Sweets, Coffee & Vegan Bakery! This is the perfect place to try Katjes’ vegetarian-friendly & gelatinfree gummy candy range, enjoy homemade vegan treats with freshly squeezed juice or a steaming cup of coffee, and meet old and new friends in a lovely and welcoming atmosphere!

Looking for a new cap? The world's leading headwear brand is now the official headwear of the NBA. Check out the latest New Era NBA collection at the New Era store in Berlin.

Since 2002, this fashion outlet boutique has been offering high class fashion and accessories from major international labels at up to 50% off the original price. Check out their selection, which ranges from unique pieces to dressy garments. Tax Free available.

An der Spandauer Brücke 7. T: 030 27890578 de.neweracap.eu

Rochstrasse 2. T: 030 28046700 www.facebook.com/ddmitte www.designer-depot.net

Rosenthaler Str. 32. T: 030 97894702 www.cafegruenohr.de 40 W H E R E B E R L I N I D E C E M B E R 2017

DESIGNER DEPOT

THE GUIDE | SIGHTSEEING

Charlottenburg, Mon Amour

Luisa Weiss tested three itineraries for exploring her home district beyond Schloss Charlottenburg. No trip to Berlin would be complete without a visit to one of the city's most recognizable landmarks, Schloss Charlottenburg (Charlottenburg Palace p. 42), a 17th-century pleasure palace with lush, landscaped gardens that are a draw for tourists and Berliners alike. But there are many reasons to pay a visit to that corner of town. Across the street from the Schloss is the Museum Berggruen (p. 50), which houses a world-renowned modern art collection, as well as the Sammlung Scharf-Gerstenberg (p. 52), specializing in Surrealist art, and the Bröhan Museum (p. 48) that focuses on art from the Art Nouveau and Jugendstil eras. A stroll down elegant Schlossstraße, south of Schloss Charlottenburg, will bring you to Suarezstraße, the so-called Antikmeile, lined with one beautiful antique store after another. Once you’ve had your fill of antiquing, walk down Steifensandstraße to Lietzensee, a picturesque little lake ringed by

weeping willows. Once you’ve made your way around the lake and worked up an appetite for dinner, make sure to stop in at Engelbecken, one of the best places in western Berlin, if not the whole city, for upscale yet homestyle German and Austrian food, such as the excellent and enormous Wiener Schnitzel with warm potato salad. To the southwest of the palace is Klausener Platz, a quiet, leafy neighborhood square with an enormous playground at its center. The streets around Klausener Platz still have the feel of old West Berlin in its heyday, with an agreeable mix of Turkish families and longtime Berliners, as well as many interesting little shops selling everything from children’s shoes to upcycled home goods. On the eastern side of Klausener Platz at number 4 is a wonderful little stationery store, Das Papiergeschäft, and at number 5 is Café Reet, a relaxed little spot for a cup of Greek saffron tea or coffee where neighborhood regulars read the morning

paper. A stroll down Danckelmannstraße to number 16 brings you to the magical Ziegenhof, a hidden courtyard, open to the public, that houses a flock of goats, beehives and chickens. Stop in at Berlin’s oldest whole-grain cooperative bakery, Brotgarten, at Seelingstr. 30, for delicious baked goods. A little further southeast from Schloss Charlottenburg, at Schustehrusstr. 13, is the Keramik-Museum, housed in one of the few remaining 18th-century buildings in the neighborhood. Around the corner is the Bollhagen Shop at Wilmersdorfer Str. 9, which sells cups, bowls, tea pots, and other home goods by the legendary Bauhaus ceramicist Hedwig Bollhagen. Continuing down Wilmersdorfer Straße will lead you to the famed Rogacki delicatessen, which has been in business for nearly 100 years. Stop in for a snack of Bavarian Weißwurst with a pretzel or for a hearty meal of fried fish with potato salad at the lunch counter, then head over to ogle the smoked fish counter. www.wheretraveler.com 41

SIGHTSEEING

MAJOR SIGHTS The “Alex” TV Tower The 368m- (1027ft)-high TV tower of Alexanderplatz can be seen from almost any point in the city and has been iconic of Berlin ever since it was built by the GDR in 1969. The giant steel-clad sphere atop houses a revolving restaurant and café as well as a viewing platform. The elevator ride lasts 40 seconds. Arrive early to avoid lines. Daily 9am–midnight (Nov–Feb from 10am). €13/8.50. www.tv-turm.de. Panoramastr. 1a. T: 030.24757537. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Berliner Dom The city’s neo-Renaissance cathedral was begun in the late 1700s, finished in 1905, and renovated in simplified form after WWII damage. Walk up 267 steps for glorious views of the city from the dome, or stay on the ground floor to gaze at elaborate sarcophagi containing the royal remains of Hohenzollern family members. Thanks to the church’s perfect acoustics and a 7200-pipe organ, the Dom is also an important concert venue. Mon–Sat 9am–8pm, Sun 9am–8pm (winter until 7pm). €7/5. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269119. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Brandenburg Gate MUST SEE The definitive Berlin icon, Carl Gotthard Langhans’ Neoclassical triumphal arch has witnessed the city’s best and worst moments, from the military parades of the Third Reich to the Wall being raised and torn down. Formerly behind GDR borders, today the gate acts mainly as the backdrop for festivals, New Year’s Eve parties, and tourist snapshots. U Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3

Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche This church’s bombed-out bell tower has been an anti-war memorial and a symbol of West Berlin ever since its ruins were restored to their present state in 1957. The old church’s ruins now host an exhibition of before and after photos documenting its former splendor and showing the Ku’damm before the bombs. Look up to admire what is left of the old mosaic. Open daily from 9am to 6pm. www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. Breitscheidplatz. T: 030.2185023. U Zoologischer Garten, Kurfürstendamm. C4

New Synagogue Before the war, this Moorish-Byzantine-style synagogue was Berlin’s largest Jewish place of worship. The synagogue was seriously damaged during the infamous Kristallnacht pogroms in 1938, while Allied bombs gave it the coup de grace in 1943. The exotic gold dome is today the icon of Berlin’s Jewish rebirth, and the partially reconstructed building now houses a Jewish center and a museum. www.cjudaicum.de. Oranienburgerstr. 28-30. T: 030.88028300. S Oranienburgerstraße, Hackescher Markt. E2

Nikolaiviertel and Knoblauchhaus The Nikolaiviertel is where Berlin was born, and the area still retains its ancient character, although most of the buildings in the narrow medieval alleys are replicas of destroyed originals that dated back to the 1200s. The late-Gothic Nikolaikirche, Berlin’s oldest surviving building, is

now a museum. Other points of interest include the Ephraim Palais Museum and the Biedermeierstyle Knoblauchhaus, a 19th-century middleclass townhouse that escaped WWII damage. Knoblauch Haus: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. www.knoblauchhaus.de. Poststr. 23. T: 030.240020171. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Potsdamer Platz Before the war, Potsdamer Platz was the city’s beating heart, with department stores, banks, internationally known theaters, dance halls, and cafés. WWII bombs obliterated 80 percent of the square, which was left in limbo for a few years and then enclosed in a no-man’s-land between the Wall and barbed wire fences. The square came back to life in the 1990s as a modern reinterpretation of its original self. Divided in three slices, it includes the Sony building with its central plaza; Daimler City, home to a large shopping mall; and the Manhattan-style Beisheim Center building. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Reichstag and Foster’s Glass Cupola MUST SEE In the last 100 years, the massive neo-Renaissance building, now the seat of German Parliament, has been bombed, set on fire, wrapped by artist Christo, and renovated by Lord Norman Foster. Climb the glass cupola for a 360-degree view of the city, then gaze down at parliament in session. The plenary hall can be visited only on guided tours. Cupola: Daily 8am–midnight by appointment only. Free. Register on website; it is recommended to do

Charlottenburg Palace The summer home of Sophie Charlotte, wife of King Friedrich I of Prussia, reflects the grandeur of the Hohenzollern family. Begun in 1695, the luxury Baroque complex consists of a main building with a central cupola and two side wings, added in later years, that enclose a courtyard. The picturesque park surrounding the castle includes a formal French-style garden, English garden with pond and statues, belvedere, and mausoleum. The castle hosts temporary art and history exhibitions. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm). €12/8. www.spsg.de. Spandauer Damm 20-24. T: 030.9694200. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Hackesche Höfe An intricate series of interconnected courtyards provides an example of early-19th-century German Secessionist style. The first courtyard is entirely decorated with glazed blue-and-white tiles in geometric designs, while the apartment buildings and narrow, maze-like alleys lined with cafés, shops, and theaters give the Höfe an atmosphere both familiar and fascinating. Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. S Hackescher Markt. E2/F2

Haus der Kulturen der Welt

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Wondrous Winter Magic Take a stroll through the sparkling fairytale Christmas Garden at Berlin’s Botanical Garden. Every evening for about eight weeks, the picturesque 1.5-kilometer trail surprises visitors with thousands of lights, colorful illuminations, and holiday-themed 3D figures. At the end, take a spin around the ice skating rink or huddle around the fire pits with a culinary treat. Until 7 January. Unter den Eichen 5-10. www.christmas-garden.de.

©CHRISTMAS GARDEN BERLIN

Dubbed the “pregnant oyster” by locals because of its curvy shape, the Haus der Kulturen der Welt was built as a congress hall in 1956. The building quickly became a symbol of western freedom and creativity, in contrast to East German architectural projects of the time. Computer-guided chime concerts ring daily at noon and 6pm and the building now hosts concerts and intercultural events. Open daily 10am–7pm. € prices vary. www.hkw.de. John-Foster-Dulles-Allee 10. T: 030.397870. U Bundestag. D3

Fabelhafte Weihnachten @ Sony Center am Potsdamer Platz Fascinating dance show I Open Air Daily from 17 hrs I Admission free www.sonycenter.de/en

SIGHTSEEING so at least three days prior to your visit. Audio tours available. www.bundestag.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030.22732152. U Bundestag. D3/E3

Siegessäule (Victory Column) The triumphal column on the Straße der 17. Juni, in the middle of Tiergarten park, commemorates victory in the Prusso-Danish war, while the angel on top was added after two further war victories against Austria and France. Daily 9:30am–6:30pm (weekends until 7pm); winter 10am–5pm (weekends until 5:30pm). €3/2. Großer Stern 1. T: 030.3912961. U Hansaplatz. C3/D3

HISTORIC SITES Asisi’s Wall Panorama Yadegar Asisi created a panorama of divided Berlin, presenting everyday life against the backdrop of the Wall on an imaginary day in the 1980s. The artist's aim was to show how the population came to terms with the situation, and the result gives onlookers a glimpse of East German life. Daily 10am–6pm. €10/4. www.asisi.de. Friedrichstr. 205. T: 0341.3555340. Kochstraße. E3/E4

Berlin Wall Documentation Center MUST SEE Walk along one of the few surviving stretches of the Berlin Wall in an area of the city where its impact was particularly dramatic, then delve into its storied history at the documentation center. Documents and original radio broadcasts from both East and West chronicle one of Germany’s saddest historical periods. Open-air exhibition: 8am-10pm daily; documentation center: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. Free. www.berliner-mauergedenkstaette.de. Bernauer Str. 111. U Bernauer Straße. E2

Checkpoint Charlie During the Cold War, Checkpoint Charlie was the

main gateway between East and West. Shortly after the Wall went up, US and Soviet tanks faced each other on this spot. Today, the crossing point acts primarily as a backdrop for tourist photographs. U Kochstraße, U Stadtmitte. E3/E4

Cold War Black Box

Holocaust Memorial MUST SEE Berlin’s tribute to the victims of the Holocaust is as big as a soccer field and consists of 2711 tombstone-like slabs of equal size and varying heights, placed on uneven ground to convey a sense of claustrophobia and disorientation. The underground information center provides a timeline of Jewish persecution. Accessible 24 hours a day. Free. www.holocaust-mahnmal.de. Cora-Berliner Straße. T: 030.2639430. U Brandenburger Tor. E3

This small building near Checkpoint Charlie provides a good introduction to the history of the Cold War through maps, videos, historic documents, photographs, and objects. Open daily 10am–6pm. €5/2. Under-14s free. www.zentrumkalter-krieg.de. In 1995, artist Christo Friedrichstr. 47. wrapped up the T: 030.2163571. Reichstag in 100,000 U Kochstraße. E3/E4

Karl-Marx-Allee

Berlin’s best example of GDRera Neorealist architecture is a 90m- (295ft-)wide boulevard built between 1950 and 1960 to provide housing for thousands of residents sq.m. of polypropylene and to act as a backdrop for military fabric. East Side Gallery parades. The street quickly became While West Berliners loved to express a source of national pride for East their creativity by drawing graffiti and Germany, due to its residential tower blocks painting on the Wall, East Berliners were never inspired by Moscow and by Stalin’s ideal style: allowed to use the dividing structure as a canvas. nationalistic in form but socialist in content. The To make up for all the artless years, artists from 21 boulevard is an important architectural showcase. countries were called upon in 1990 to decorate one U Weberwiese, Strausberger Platz. F3/G3 mile of the Wall's eastern segment with their work, Stasi Prison creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery. MUST SEE Between 1945 and 1989, more than Mühlenstraße. S+U Warschauer Straße, 20,000 people suspected of opposing the East S Ostbahnhof. G4 German political system were arrested by the Stasi Erlebnis Europa (secret police) and brought to this custody The "Europa experience" exhibition near building. In its first and darkest years, the prison’s Brandenburg Gate offers the possibility to virtually cellars, known as “the submarine,” were used to inflict psychological torture on the inmates, while make a difference in Europe and find out more the relatively more humane cells are on the upper about European politics. Round media tables floors, next to a seemingly never-ending corridor and a 360-degree cinema convey the history and lined with interrogation rooms. Tours in English on outline the tasks of the European commission in 24 Wed, Sat, and Sun at 2:30pm in winter, daily at languages. Daily. www.erlebnis-europa.eu. 11:30am and 2:30pm in summer. €6/3. Unter den Linden 78. en.stiftung-hsh.de. Genslerstr. 66. T: 030.98608230. T: 030 2280 2900 S Landsberger Allee, then Tram M5 to U Brandeburg Tor. D3 Freienwalder Str., then 10-minute walk. Off Map

Topographie des Terrors MUST SEE On the site of the former headquarters of the SS and the Third Reich’s most important offices, this permanent exhibition recounts the tragic history of Nazi forced labor, focusing on the central institutions of the SS and Third Reich police and the crimes they committed throughout Europe. A segment of the Wall runs along the grounds. Daily 10am–8pm. Free. www.topographie.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 8. T: 030.2545090. U Kochstraße. E4

Tränenpalast (Palace of Tears)

Winter has barely started, but you are already thinking of a trip to the tropics. If you don't feel like boarding a plane to the Virgin Islands, why not go for second best and pay a visit to Tropical Islands? This balmy paradise enclosed in a giant, heated Zeppelin hangar is just 50 km away from Berlin and features palm trees and white sand surrounding a large lagoon-style pool. Last May, the "island" was expanded, and the brand-new park, called Amazonia, features 35,000 sq.m. (377,000 sq.ft.) of outdoor aquatic entertainment, including a whitewater river and a heated pool open year-round. www.tropical-islands.de

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KIDS & FAMILIES Berlin Dungeon Much like the London Dungeon, the Berlin Dungeon provides a terrifying interactive journey through the city's dark past via a sometimesspooky, actor-led experience. Visitors are taken through attractions such as the old library of

COURTESY OF TROPICAL ISLANDS

Escape To The Tropics

Until 1990, the departure hall of the Friedrichstraße station was also a border crossing for West Berliners on their way home after visiting relatives and friends in the East. The many painful farewells brought locals to rename the building the “palace of tears.” The permanent exhibition Border Experience: Everyday Life in Divided Germany recounts the effects of the border on German residents of the time. Tue–Fri 9am–7pm (Sat–Sun until 6pm). Free. www.hdg.de. Reichstagufer 17. T: 030.46777790. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

SIGHTSEEING Berlin, a plague-infected street, a torture chamber, a secret court, and more. Not recommended for young children. Daily 10am–6pm (winter weekends until 5pm). €20.50/12.30(discount when booking online). Under-14s must be accompanied by adult. Combined LEGOLAND, Madame Tussauds, and Sea Life tickets available. www.thedungeons.com. Spandauer Str. 2. S+U Hackescher Markt. F3

Berlin Zoo and Aquarium MUST SEE One of the city’s main attractions and

the oldest zoo in Germany includes pavilions that provide ample indoor space, making the venue suitable for rainy days. The zoo boasts the largest number of species and total animal residents in the world. The aquarium, one of the largest in Europe, features large tanks with piranhas, sharks, and alligators. Daily 9am–6:30pm. Zoo or aquarium: €14.50/7.50, under-4s free. Combined ZooAquarium ticket: €20/10. www.aquarium-berlin.de, www.zoo-berlin.de Hardenbergplatz 8. T: 030.254010. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Botanischer Garten

of activity stations on the theme of construction. Pleasant outdoor area for the warmer days. Open Fri and Sat 1–6pm, Sun 11–6pm. €4.50 for all over3s (3.50 on Fridays). www.labyrinth-kindermuseum. de. Osloer Str. 12. T: 030.800931150. U Osloer Straße then tram. Off Map

Children’s Museum MachMit MUST SEE A hands-on museum for children. There is a climbing structure, a maze, a soap making workshop, a cinema, and lots of activities to encourage discovery through playing. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €5.50 for all over-3s. www.machmitmuseum.de. Senefelderstr. 5/6. T: 030.74778200. S Prenzlauer Allee. F1

Computer Game Museum Over 300 items, including rare originals, walk visitors through the development of computer games from the 1959 Brown Box to the Playstation and beyond. Visitors can test most of the games. Open Wed–Mon 10am–8pm. €8/5. www.computerspielemuseum.de. Karl-Marx-Allee 93a. T: 030.60988577. U Weberwiese. G3

Currywurst Museum

This large park was designed in the Romantic English style, with hills, lakes, and pretty greenhouses. There is a palm house and a whole section dedicated to exotic plants, including orchids, cacti, and carnivorous plants. Open daily 9am–ca. one hour before sunset. Museum closes at 6pm. €6/3.

Learn about Berlin’s most famous street food at this small but entertaining museum. Delve into Currywurst history, discover the secrets of its yellow sauce in the "spice chamber," and watch movies starring the delicious sausage. Daily 10am–8pm. €11/7, under-6s free. www.currywurstmuseum.de. Schützenstr. 70. T: 030.88718647. U Kochstraße. E4

Children’s Museum Labyrinth

Domäne Dahlem City Farm

One of Berlin’s two children’s museums. Two floors

A real farm in the Berlin suburbs, with a manor

house from the 1600s, boasts farm grounds that are still in use, complete with all the usual barnyard animals. There’s also a small exhibition of ancient agricultural tools and a Saturday-morning farmers’ market. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm in summer. Farm: Free except during special events. Museum: €3/1.50. www.domaenedahlem.de. Königin-LuiseStr. 49. T: 030.6663000. U Dahlem Dorf. Off Map

Madame Tussauds Have your picture taken with Angela Merkel, Albert Einstein, One Direction, or a host of other famous names in entertainment and politics. And, yes, there's even a wax Adolf Hitler, depicted as a little man standing in despair in his bunker during his final days. Daily 10am–7pm (Aug until 8pm). €23.50/18.50, discounts if you book online. Combined Berlin Dungeon, LEGOLAND, and Sea Life tickets available. www.madametussauds.com. Unter den Linden 74. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Sea Life & AquaDom Dazzling clownfish, scary sharks, crawling spider crabs, and lovely seahorses are just some of the 5,000 creatures inhabiting this small but interesting aquarium. Discover the ethereal dance of the jellyfish and observe the eagle rays on your way to the Aquadom, a 16-m-tall cylindrical tropical fish tank that can be viewed from a slow elevator. Daily 10am–7pm. €17.50/12.50 (discounts when booking online). Under-3s free. Combined tickets with Madame Tussauds, Berlin Dungeon, and Legoland also available. www.visitsealife.com. Spandauer Str. 3. S Hackescher Markt, S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Thank you for keeping Berlin clean Please make sure you use our 22.500 waste baskets

www.BSR.de/sauber

Welcome to Berlin

www.wheretraveler.com 45

SIGHTSEEING public park. The six kilometers of runways are used for cycling, skating, and jogging, and the whole field covers four hectares. This is where many Berliners spend their weekends, bringing BBQ equipment or just picnicking on the grass while their kids fly colorful kites. Tempelhofer Damm. S Tempelhof, U Platz der Luftbrücke, U Boddinstraße. Off Map

TOURS & GUIDED WALKS Berlinagenten These luxury tour agents specialize in “urban lifestyle guidance,” introducing their clients to exclusive locations, people, shops, and clubs. Offerings include a “Pimp Me Up” spa and makeover tour, culinary experiences, private house visits, limo tours, and – for an authentic urban experience – a graffiti workshop. From €300. www.berlinagenten.com. Bornholmer Str. 4. T: 030.43720701.

Berliner Unterwelten (Underground Tours) Since 1997, the Berlin Underworlds Association has been offering regular tours of underground structures and subterranean complexes that are otherwise inaccessible. Cold War nuclear shelters, Hitler’s underground fortress, escape routes to the West, and WWII bunkers are just some of the adventures on offer. From €10. www.berliner-unterwelten.de. Brunnenstr. 105. T: 030.49910517.

CooLTourings Segway Tours Covering Berlin’s top 20 sightseeing highlights, CooLTourings takes individual visitors or large groups on an exciting ride aboard a Segway, a fun and fast way to explore the city. www.seg-berlin-ways.de. T: 030.26321381.

Trabi World For a quintessential Berlin tour experience, hop inside real Trabants, the iconic cars of the former GDR. Visitors drive their personal Trabis, while, via the car’s radio, the group leader provides historical and quirky facts. Three different tours available. €30-50. www.trabi-world.de. Zimmerstr. 97. T: 030.30201030.orate one mile of the Wall's eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery. Mühlenstraße. S+U Warschauer Straße, S Ostbahnhof. G4

POTSDAM Biosphäre Potsdam This tropical indoor garden features a greenhouse with more than 20,000 plants, including a palm grove and mangrove swamp, as well as animals such as iguanas, parrots, geckos, frogs, and butterflies. Daily Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, from 10am on weekends and holidays. €11.50/9.80. Under-3s free. www.biosphaere-potsdam.de. Georg-HalemannAllee 99. T: 0331.550740. Tram 96 from Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

Filmpark Babelsberg In the early 1900s, the Babelsberg film studios produced some of the most important films of the silent era, including Metropolis, until the facilities

were taken over by the Nazi regime to produce political propaganda. Today, part of the complex has been turned into a theme park, with old sets, stuntmen, special effects, and children’s sections dedicated to popular TV characters. Daily 10am– 6pm from April to October. €21/14, under-4s free. www.filmpark-babelsberg.de. Grossbeerenstr., Potsdam-Babelsberg. T: 0331.7212750. S Griebnitzsee. Off Map

Sanssouci MUST SEE The sumptuous Rococo castle of Potsdam's Sanssouci was commissioned in 1745 by Frederick the Great, who wanted "a place to be without cares." The king of Prussia employed the finest architects of the day to design the Baroque park, the Schloß placed above terraced vineyards, the more sober New Palace, and a few other pavilions scattered in the park. Daily 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm); Mon closed. €15/11. www.spsg.de. An der Orangerie 1, Potsdam. T: 0331.9694200. S Potsdam or regional train from Zoologischer Garten to Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

RIVER TRIPS Reederei Riedel Fourteen ships take visitors on 1-, 1.5-, and 3-hour cruises of the city’s canals and rivers. www.reederei-riedel.de. T: 030.67961470.

Stern und Kreis Schiffahrt Choose from 30 different boat tours along the city’s rivers and canals, including bus-boat combination tours of the Brandenburg region. buchung.sternundkreis.de. T: 030.5363600.

At The Crossing Of Then And Now

No view of the city is as spectacular and historically rich as a the one you'll find on top of the dome crowning the Reichstag building (p. 42). Entirely made of glass to allow natural light to radiate down to the parliament floor, Norman Foster's cupola features a spiraling walkway that goes all the way to the top, surrounding a mirror-covered core from which visitors can witness plenary sessions happening underfoot. Visitors also get audioguides explaining the city's main landmarks as they walk around the dome. Some practical advice: advance registration required at www. bundestag.de, and don't forget to bring valid ID and wear warm clothing, as it can get windy up there.

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THE GUIDE | MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

A Home For Street Art

ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF URBAN NATION MUSEUM FOR CONTEMPORARY ART

Street art may belong in the streets, but Annabelle Mallia agrees it has a place in museums too. What began in the 1970s with tags on walls that quickly took over New York has now developed into a worldwide urban art movement, and city landscapes everywhere are used as pseudo-canvases. Urban Nation, an international institution for street artists, has been turning Berlin into an open-air museum since 2013, bringing together established pioneers of urban art and upcoming local sprayers, and providing them space on select buildings for their creations. Their headquarters at Bulowstr. 7 hasn’t looked like a regular building for years, with its four-storey-high façade regularly used as a giant canvas by international artists like Shepard Fairy (the artist behind the Obama Hope poster) and The London Police. In September of this year, the location opened its doors for the first time as the Urban Nation Museum for Contemporary Art (www.urban-nation.com), the world’s first major institution built to champion and

archive street art and graffiti from all over the globe. In celebration, the surrounding area was transformed for two days into an open-air gallery, which saw wall climbers unveiling the works of French street art legend Invader on the gable of the museum building, as well as a giant window illustration at nearby Nollendorfplatz train station. The opening exhibition, Unique. United. Unstoppable features 150 pieces, created specifically for the gallery space by artists such as Banksy, 3D (the frontman of Massive Attack), German duo Herakut, and Blek le Rat (the pioneer of stencil graffiti who made his name spraying rats on the streets of Paris in the 1980s), as well as the library of photojournalist Martha

Cooper (inset, below), whose recordings impressively document the emergence and development of urban art. The gallery rooms extend over two floors, and thanks to the bridge-like architectural design, visitors can view the pieces from a range of perspectives. The museum is an extension of what happens on the streets, showing what the artists can also do on conventional canvas, and has been described as the biggest acknowledgement so far of the legitimacy of urban art. Some may object to the institutionalization of an art movement valued for its anarchic spirit, but artists relish the hope it will increase the value and appeal of their life-long passion. www.wheretraveler.com 47

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Altes Museum Berlin’s collection of classical antiquities, housed inside a breathtaking Neoclassical building. Take in the mosaic floor of Hadrian’s villa, a wealth of Greek sculptures, and a number of Etruscan and Roman finds. To 21 Jan: Dangerous Perfection – Ancient Funerary Vases from Apulia. Featuring thirteen large-scale vases from the indigenous population of southern Italy 2,500 years ago. Tue–Fri 10am– 6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Alte Nationalgalerie A splendorous collection of 19th-century art. To 18 Mar: Rodin - Rilke - Hofmannsthal. Man and His Genius. Celebrating the 100th anniversary of Rodin's death with his masterpieces. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6 with exhibition, €10/5 museum only. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1–3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Bauhaus Archiv The avant-garde building designed by Walter Gropius is home to documents, photographs,

and models illustrating the Bauhaus philosophy, Bröhan Museum which combines artistic beauty with architectural Starting in 1966, collector Karl Bröhan amassed functionality. To 13 Nov: Bauhaus in Motion. A hundreds of Art Nouveau and Art Deco objects focus on movement in design as well as Bauhaus’s and various paintings from the Berlin Secessionist physical relocation out of Weimar. To 5 Mar: New movement. Browse through pieces of furniture, Bauhaus Chicago: Experiment Photography and Film. housewares, ceramics, and glassware from Exploring the American leg of Bauhaus this fascinating artistic period. To 28 creativity. Wed–Mon 10am–5pm. Jan: Landscape Between Impressionism Sat–Mon €8/5, Wed–Fri. €7/4. www. and Expressionism: Masterpieces by bauhaus.de. Klingelhöferstr. 14. T: Hagermeister and Leistikow. Exploring 030.25400278. the radical middle ground between Berlin has more U Nollendorfplatz. D4 impressionism and expressionism.

Bode Museum

museums than rainy days per year.

An extensive collection of Old Masters’ paintings, a section dedicated to ancient coins, and many works of Roman and Byzantine art adorn the museum’s impressive interior, built by Ernst von Ihne in 1904. To 28 Jan: Scholarship and Turbulence. Wolfgang Fritz Volbach, a scholar between the two World Wars. Celebrating Volbach’s 125th birthday and his dedication to Berlin’s museums. To 7 Oct: The Human Image - The Portrait's Evolution from Antiquity to the Present. Examining the human image depicted on coins and medallions through the centuries. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.smb.museum. Am Kupfergraben. T: 030.266424242. U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Delightful Abstraction Mention Willi Baumeister’s name, and abstract art lovers will instantly think of minimal human figures seemingly in motion. Baumeister used color to his advantage, whether it was the color of the paper or his limited palette, and the results were often a strong focus on the line. As one of the trailblazers of German abstraction, Baumeister forged his craft through determination, undeterred even by persecution he faced during the Nazi era. During this time, Baumeister still created hundreds of drawings while undercover in southwestern Germany. Gaze at more than 100 of his pieces and some works by his contemporaries in Willi Baumeister. The Draftsman. Figure and Abstraction in the Works on Paper, starting on 9 December at the Kupferstichkabinett. Matthäikirchplatz, www.smb.museum

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Open Tue–Sun 10am–6pm www. broehan-museum.de. Schloßstr. 1a. T: 030.32690600. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Brücke Museum Founded in Dresden in 1905, the Die Brücke movement drew inspiration from primitive art and expressed extreme emotion and political opposition through lively, exaggerated color. Features the paintings of such artists as Emil Nolde and Erich Heckel. To 7 Jan: 50 Years of the Brücke-Museum – The Jubilee Exhibition. Paintings, Watercolors, Drawings, and Graphics of Artist Group Die Brücke. Celebrating the museum’s 50th birthday, featuring works from Die Brücke spanning Jugendstil, Impressionism, and Fauvism. Wed– Mon 11am–5pm. €5/3. www.bruecke-museum.de. Bussardsteig 9. T: 030.8312029. U Oskar-Helene-Heim. Off Map

DDR Museum Learn about daily life in the former East Germany at this hands-on museum. Closets filled with GDR (DDR in German) fashion and a Trabant (the GDR car) are just some of the items on display, while photographs illustrate Communist habits, such as collectively potty-training babies or going on nudist holidays. Mon–Sun 10am–8pm, Sat until 10pm. €7/4. www.ddr-museum.de. Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 1. T: 030.847123731. S Hackescher Markt, U Alexanderplatz. E3

Deutsches Historisches Museum MUST SEE Learn about the milestones in German history from the Roman occupation of the Germanic areas to the present day. To 15 Apr: 1917. Revolution. Russia and Europe. Exploring the 100 years since the Russian Revolution and the changes it brought forth. To 8 Apr: Craving For New Pictures: From Broadsheet to Comic Strip. A display of the vibrant history of graphics in media. Daily 10am–6pm. €8/4 (under-18s free). www.dhm.de. Unter den Linden 2. T: 030.203040. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Deutsches Technikmuseum MUST SEE At the museum for all things technology, the old locomotives and aviation rooms are the most popular attractions, while a Rosinenbomber, a 1948 Berlin Airlift aircraft, is mounted on the museum’s roof. A hands-on section allows kids to conduct experiments. To 2 Sep: Seamarks! Highlights of orientation along Germany's Coasts. A presentation of how seafarers found their direction on the sea. Mon–Fri 9am–5:30pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €8/4. www.sdtb.de. Trebbiner Str. 9. T: 030.902540. U Möckernbrücke, U Gleisdreieck. E4

Ephraim Palais Temporary exhibitions on local cultural history fill this great Baroque building. Demolished in 1935, the Palais was rebuilt in 1983 using its original façade, which had been stored in a warehouse for

WILLI BAUMEISTER, BILD T 21, 1922, DECKFARBEN UND BLEISTIFT AUF GELBLICHES WEISS GRUNDIERTEM PAPIER, 40,4 X 20,2 CM, © KUPFERSTICHKABINETT – STAATLICHE MUSEEN ZU BERLIN / REINHARD SACZEWSKI

MUSEUMS

almost 50 years. Open Tues, Thu–Sun 10am–6pm, Wed noon-8pm. €7/5 under 18s free. www.stadtmuseum.de. Poststr. 16. 030 24002162. U Alexanderplatz E3

The Gay Museum (Schwules Museum) One of the world’s largest and most significant institutions for archiving, researching, and communicating the history and culture of LGBTQ communities. Changing exhibitions take diverse approaches to lesbian, gay, transgender, bisexual, and queer biographies and concepts in history, art, and culture. . To 8 Jan: Queer City: Stories from São Paulo. Exploring how São Paulo's diversity exemplifies the term "queer city". To 5 Feb: Marc Martin: Fenster zum Klo - Public toilets & private affairs. Martin documents the history and stories of public toilets. To 28 Feb: Fascination Sex: The Theorist & Activist Martin Dannecker. Following the story of the critical theorist, in celebration of his 75th birthday. Sun–Mon, Wed–Fri 2–6pm, Thu 2–8pm, Sat 2–7pm. €6/4. www.schwulesmuseum.de. Lützowstr. 73. T: 030.69599050. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

Jewish Museum MUST SEE Daniel Libeskind’s architectural jewel, shaped as a deconstructed Star of David, explores millennia of German Jewish history, including the alternating glories and persecutions of the community. From 17 Nov: res·o·nant. A multidimensional light and sound installation. From 11 Dec: Welcome to Jerusalem. An exploration of Jerusalem through time and religion Daily 10am–8pm, Mon until 10pm. €8/3. www.jmberlin.de. Lindenstr. 9-14. T: 030.25993300. U Hallesches Tor, U Kochstraße. E4

Magicum - Berlin Magic Museum A very unique interactive magic museum. With exhibition objects that date back to ancient times as well as games and magic tricks to keep guests on their toes. www.magicum-berlin.de. Open Mon-Sun 10am-8pm. €9.50/7.50. Große Hamburger Straße 17. T: 030.28875635. S Hackescher Markt. E3

A world of exhibitions

Märkisches Museum Documents, photos, books, and weapons walk visitors through 750 years of Berlin history in a neoGothic setting. To 25 Feb: Berlin 1937. In the Shadow of Tomorrow. Examining the false sense of normalcy Berlin felt in 1937, right before the Nazi seizure of power. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €6/4 (under-18s free; free entry first Wed of month). www.stadtmuseum. de. Am Köllnischen Park 5. T: 030.24002162. U Märkisches Museum. F3 MUST SEE One of the city’s best art and photography exhibition spaces and an important example of early 20th-century architecture, the imposing building combines Italian Renaissance elements with local features, such as mosaics of allegorical figures. From 9 Dec: Jews, Christians and Muslims. In the Discourse of Sciences 500-1500. Exploring how intellectual exchange thrived between the three cultures. To 7 Jan: Ed Atkins. Old Food. Atkins's multimedia work, united under evoking a physical reaction. To 14 Jan: Wenzel Hablik - Expressionist Utopias. Featuring the expressionist avant-garde architecture and design paintings. Wed–Mon 10am–7pm. Prices vary by exhibition. www.gropiusbau.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 7. T: 030.254860. U Kochstraße. E4

Menschen Museum The internationally popular touring exhibition Body

©ISTOCK

Martin-Gropius-Bau

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Museum Berggruen

A thrilling journey through the history of espionage

MUST SEE A can’t-miss for Picassophiles. The Spanish painter is the star of this Charlottenburg museum, which boasts dozens of rooms filled with his paintings. The collection encompasses 75 years of his life and all of his creative phases. Expanded in 2013, the museum also features many famous works by Matisse, Klee, Giacometti, Van Gogh, Cézanne, and many more. To 31 Mar: Mark Chagall: The Modernity of Decorativeness. A one room show of Chagall's innovation in modern art, with photographs by Ulrike Kolb. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 1. T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Museum of Musical Instruments A fascinating collection of ancient and modern musical instruments, including bagpipes, harpsichords, and instruments once owned by celebrities. Check the website for the weekly demonstrations of the most impressive musical machines, such as a silent film-era cinema organ. Open Tue, Wed, Fri 9am–5pm, Thu 9am–8pm, Sat & Sun 10am–5pm. €6/3 (under 18s free). www.sim.spk-berlin.de. Tiergartenstr. 1. T: 030.254810. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Museum of Photography Diverse and comprehesive exhibitions curated from the Berlin Art Library’s vast photographic collection are housed in a Neoclassical 1909 building built for the Prussian army’s officer corps, whose lower two floors are occupied by the Helmut Newton Foundation. To 7 Jan: Seen By #9. OH SO SOLID, ALL THAT AIR. Following the transformation of urban spaces from commercialization. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.266424242. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3–C4

Museum für Naturkunde Home to the world’s largest dinosaur skeleton, the natural history museum also features extensive collections of shells, insects, and prize-winning

Leipziger Platz 9, 10117 Berlin Potsdamer Platz Open daily 10 am – 8 pm deutsches-spionagemuseum.de

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mounted animal dioramas. Tue–Fri 9:30–6pm, Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3. www.naturkundemuseumberlin. Invalidenstr. 43. T: 030.20938591. U Naturkundemuseum. E2

Neues Museum MUST SEE The 3300-year-old bust of Queen Nefertiti is the museum’s top attraction. Examine a world-famous Egyptian collection that includes many important papyruses, while hundreds of artifacts relate early human history. Badly damaged during WWII and left abandoned until the 1980s, the museum reopened in 2009. To 3 Dec: China and Egypt. Cradles of the World. A parallel exploration of two cultures and their innovations that spanned millennia. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.neues-museum.de. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Pergamon Museum One of Berlin’s main attractions, the Pergamon houses the outcome of Germany’s early-20thcentury archeology excavations. The imposing Ishtar Gate of Babylon with its glazed blue bricks is a feast for the eyes, as are the Market Gate from Myletus, the reconstructed interiors of an Assyrian palace, and many other testimonies to the ancient world. Altar room closed for restoration through 2019. To 26 Jan: Pictures of Comfort and Design: Carpets in Indian Miniature Painting. A glimpse into the essential courtly furnishing. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. S Hackescher Markt. E3

The German Spy Museum Delve into the world of espionage with two floors of interactive exhibits covering some 3500 years of espionage history. Highlights include presentations on James Bond and other famous fictitious spies and a laser maze that tests your agility to break into – or out of – compromising locations. €12/8. Daily 10am-8pm. www.deutschesspionagemuseum.de. Leipziger Platz 9. S+U Potsdamer Platz E3

Stasi Museum The GDR’s Ministry of State Security, the Stasi, has been described as one of the most repressive intelligence and secret police agencies to ever have existed. Explore the agency’s headquarters and learn about their spying techniques, inc. cameras hidden in watering cans or inside fake trees. Open Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat & Sun

Crowns from the migration period found near the Black Sea, rare brooches and stunning belts from early medieval graves in France, Italy, and Germany are all on display at the Neues Museum (this page) in The Crown of Kerch, Treasures from the Dawn of European

DIE „KRONE VON KERTSCH“, DIADEM MIT ROTEN EINLAGEN AUS GRANAT BESETZT, SPÄTES 4. / 1. HÄLFTE 5. JAHRHUNDERT N. CHR., © RÖMISCH-GERMANISCHES MUSEUM/RHEINISCHES BILDARCHIV KÖLN, FOTO: ANJA WEGNER. OPPOSITE PAGE: © ISTOCK.

Worlds showcased anatomist Gunther von Hagens’ plastination process, which preserves body parts and reveals their inner structures. The permanent Berlin exhibition shows 200 body parts amd 20 whole-body preparations, focusing on specific organs and diseases. Daily 10am–7pm. www.memu.berlin. Panoramaplatz 1. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

noon–6pm. €5/4. www.stasimuseum.de. Ruschestr. 103. T: 030.5536854. U Magdalenenstraße. Off Map

ART GALLERIES Berlinische Galerie A modern art collection of 5000+ works of German and Eastern European paintings. To 30 Apr: Cyrill Lachauer. What Do You Want Here. Reconstructions and alternative realities from Lachauer's journey across the US. To 15 Jan: Jeanne Mammen. The Observer Retrospective (1910-1975). Highlighting the painter's works, encompassing Cubo-Futurism, Expressionism, and New Objectivity. To 26 Feb: Monica Bonvicini. 3612,54 M³ VS 0,05 M³. Berlin's University of the Arts alum returns for her first solo exhibition. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm. €8/5 (€10/7 during exhibitions). www.berlinischegalerie.de. Alte Jakobstr. 124-128. T: 030.78902600. U Hallesches Tor. E4

For Explorers!

Brücke Museum Founded in Dresden in 1905, the Die Brücke movement drew inspiration from primitive art and expressed extreme emotion and political opposition through lively, exaggerated color. This museum explores the history of the movement through the paintings of artists like Nolde, Kirchner, Heckel, and many more. Open Wed– Mon 11am–5pm. €5/3. www.bruecke-museum.de. Bussardsteig 9. T: 030.8312029. U Oskar-Helene-Heim. Off Map

Trebbiner Str. 9, 10963 Berlin www.sdtb.de /deutschestechnikmuseum

C/O Berlin MUST SEE Contemporary art and photography has finally reopened in the Amerika Haus, which housed the American library during the Cold War era. To 3 Dec: Willi Ruge . Fotoaktuell – Adventures With the Photographers. Photographs 1919-1953. A retrospective of Ruge’s historical photography, painstakingly tracked down from numerous other agency and publishing archives. To 3 Dec: Danny Lyon. Message to the Future. Images of fifty years of social reality and political battles in America. Daily 11am–8pm. €10/5. www.co-berlin.org Hardenbergstr. 22–24. T: 030.28444160. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Dalí – The Exhibition The permanent exhibit features more than 400 works, most from private collections, by the Surrealist painter, with a focus on drawing, illustration, and film. Dalí fans explore new perspectives of the artist’s life and work. Daily noon–8pm (10am–8pm in summer). €12.50. www.daliberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 7. Toll number: 0700.3254237546. U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Deutsche Bank KunstHalle With an emphasis on paper and photography, the Deutsche Bank’s art collection is a stroll along the timeline of modern art. Every year, the bank pays tribute to young artists by organizing an international prize. To 25 Mar: Fahrelnissa. A retrospective of Turkish modernist Zeid's work. Daily 10am–8pm. €4/3. www.deutsche-bank-kunsthalle.de. Unter den Linden 13/15. T: 030.2020930. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Gemäldegalerie – Old Masters Painting Gallery MUST SEE One of the finest collections of European art from the 13th to the 18th centuries.

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Lots of Dutch and Flemish painters, including Rembrandt and Vermeer, and a vast collection of Italian Renaissance art, including Botticelli, Titian, and Canaletto. To 7 Jan: Jean Fouquet. The Melun Diptych. The two halves of the 15th century diptych is reunited for the first time in 80 years. To 14 Jan: Luther Pictures. Prints and Drawings from the Kupferstichkabinett. Images of Martin Luther after instigating the Reformation. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Matthäikirchplatz 50. T: 030.266424242. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Georg-Kolbe-Museum An idyllic garden houses the former studio of German Secessionist artist Georg Kolbe, who used the human body as an expression of the human spirit, challenging the role of sculpture as a representation of mythological or heroic symbolism. The museum displays a wide selection of works and hosts frequent exhibitions. To 28 Jan: Emil Cimiotti. Retrospective. A celebration of the pioneer of Abstraction's 90th birthday. Tue–Sun

10am–6pm. €5/3. www.georg-kolbe-museum.de. Sensburger Allee 25. T: 030.3042144. S Heerstraße. Off Map

Hamburger Bahnhof The permanent collection of this former railway station includes a selection of works from the Friedrich Christian Flick Collection, and the many temporary exhibitions focus on painting and sculpture from the past 50 years, as well as videos, music, and design. To 14 Jan: Preis der Nationalgalerie 2017. Works from this year's award nominees. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €14/7. www.smb. museumInvalidenstr. 50-51. T: 030.266424242. U Naturkundemuseum, S Hauptbahnhof. D2

Haus am Waldsee Since 1946, this Zehlendorf villa has organized contemporary art exhibitions that cover a wide spectrum of media and styles. Each show is complemented by events – lectures, concerts, and performances – for children and adults. The multi-sensory sculpture garden is one of the city’s finest and worth a visit on its own. For an unusual

yoga class, try Yoga Amidst the Art, offered Wed 9-10:30am. Exhibitions closed for renovations until June 2018. €7/5. www.hausamwaldsee.de. Argentinische Allee 30. T: 030.8018935. U Krumme Lanke. Off Map

Liebermann Villa on Lake Wannsee MUST SEE The former summer residence of artist Max Liebermann, co-founder and head of the German Secessionist movement. Before being dismissed and banned by the Nazis in 1933, Liebermann painted around 200 works in this villa, some of which are on display in his studio on the upper floor. €3 plus museum entry. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm (11am–5pm in winter). €7/4 (€6/4 in summer). www.liebermann-villa.de. Colomierstr. 3. T: 030.80585900. S Wannsee. Off Map

me Collectors Room Thomas Olbricht created this space to bring together other international art collectors and to organize exhibitions, workshops, and concerts. The upper floor houses his “cabinet of curiosities.” To 2 Apr: Indigenous Australia: Masterworks from the National Gallery of Australia. Presenting the traditional and modern works of Indigenous Australia. Tue–Sun noon–6pm. €7/4. www.me-berlin.com. Auguststr. 68. T: 030.86008510. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Sammlung Boros No more than 12 guests at a time can visit this former Nazi bunker turned art gallery. Collector Chistian Boros bought the historic building in 2003 to fill it up with contemporary art by artists like Damien Hirst, Olafur Eliasson, and more. Open by appointment only (book online). €12. www.sammlung-boros.de. Reinhardtstr. 20. T: 030.27594065. S+U Friedrichstraße. E2/E3

Sammlung Hoffmann An old sewing factory behind the Hackesche Höfe now contains Rolf and Erika Hoffmann’s private collection. Erika herself shows visitors around her art-packed apartment on Saturdays between 11am and 4pm. €10. www.sammlung-hoffmann.de. Sophie-Gips-Höfe, Aufgang C, Sophienstr. 21. T: 030.28499120. S Hackescher Markt. F2 The Scharf Gerstenberg collection now houses three floors of works by Surrealist painters, such as Klee, Max Ernst, Dali, and Dubuffet. Open Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat & Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 70. T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Commercial Galleries

Borne Of Nature Although today the Kunstgewerbemuseum (Matthäikirchplatz, www.smb.museum) is renowned for its collection on design and craftwork, when it was founded the museum had a twin – its own school of design. This curious bit of history also goes back to the origins of botanical photographer Karl Blossfeldt’s work, as much of his images were created as teaching materials for the museum’s school, in the form of photographs, models, charts, and templates. Form Follows Flower. Moritz Meurer, Karl Blossfeldt & Co., on show at the museum, presents Blossfeldt’s images as the detailed, educational materials that art instructor Moritz Meurer used for his classes. Until 14 Jan.

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Galerie Sievi, to 17 Dec: Franck Moëglen, Maria Maier, Olivier Messas: Painters Position. Gneisenaustr. 112. www.galerie-sievi.de; Galerie Gilla Lörcher – Contemporary Art, from 14 to 21 Dec: Onesingle-artwork-show #7: Ute Schendel. Pohlstraße 73. www.galerie-loercher.de; Galerie Berlin-Baku, from 3 to 22 Dec: Rosi Wehnert, Marion Gerlach, Evelyn Bauer, Eva Möller. Großgörschenstr. 7. www.galeriebb.de; Jordan / Seydoux – Drawings & Prints, to 22 Dec: Printed and published in Zurich Steindruckerei Wolfensberger. Auguststr. 22. www.jordan-seydoux.com; Galerie P.W. Richard, to 23 Dec: Christo, Oldenburg, Tilson etc. and the view of everyday life and the environment. Wielandstr. 13. www.galerie-p-w-richard.de; Michael Reid Berlin, to 28 Dec: Wayne Youle. Ackerstr. 163. www.michaelreid.com.au.

CATHARINA SONNENBERG, ANEMONE, 2015, © CATHARINA SONNENBERG

Sammlung Scharf Gerstenberg

DINING | THE GUIDE

The Year’s New Dining Stars Of the many restaurants that just opened this year, Hilda Hoy has some clear favorites. There’s no denying 2017 has been an eventful year on many different fronts. As it winds down to a close, it’s time to look back on the last 12 months and take stock of the many exciting developments on the city’s culinary scene. Narrowing it down wasn’t easy, but these are my four favorite restaurant openings of the year. Mitte’s sleek and stylish To The Bone (Torstr. 96, www.tothebone.bonita.berlin) is so new it’s barely out of its soft opening phase, but already a fast success. Like its sister restaurant, Schöneberg’s To Beef or Not To Beef, the meat comes from Chianti’s Dario Cecchini, modern gastronomy’s most famous ambassador for the artisanal craft of butchery. The focus is modern Italian cuisine, so in addition to the sublime and succulent beef, there are seasonal specialties like ricotta-stuffed fried zucchini blossoms and tuna tartare with passion fruit reduction. 54 W H E R E B E R L I N I D E C E M B E R 2017

Italian cocktail culture gets a nod too – make sure to try one of the amazing twists on the Negroni. A vast departure from that meat-lover’s paradise is Con Tho (Hasenheide 16, www. conthoberlin.de), a peaceful spot serving contemporary vegetarian (and mostly vegan) twists on Vietnamese cookery. The kitchen spins a colorful, creative web of flavors so enticing, nobody will miss the meat. The crisp banh xeo rice crepes filled with mushrooms and herbs are a house favorite, as well as the rice bowls with diverse toppings and delicious homemade lemonades. From the other side of the globe comes the culinary inspiration for La Lucha (Paul-Lincke-Ufer 41, www.laluchaberlin.com), whose tagline of “modern Mexican” says it all. Forget sloppy Tex-Mex nachos and the like – La Lucha serves fresh, fusion-happy dishes like swordfish sashimi with mango-habanero

salsa, or duck confit with apricot mole sauce on a crisp tortilla bed. As if that wasn’t enough, the bar stocks an unrivalled selection of hard-to-find tequilas and mezcals. Should all that tequila leave you in need of a restorative brunch the next morning, Benedict Berlin (Uhlandstr. 49, www. benedict-breakfast.de) is there for you – at any time of day, actually. The broad allbreakfast menu ranges from beloved classics to international specialties like shakshuka eggs and Russian syrniki pancakes with smoked salmon and caviar. It isn’t exactly a new opening, per se – it opened its doors in Wilmersdorf in late 2016 – but it was only this summer that they wound up their soft opening phase and entered full throttle: 24-7 opening hours. That’s right, French toast, eggs Benedict, and more, served hot and fresh any day, any hour. Night owls, rejoice!

EGGS BENEDICT: © SARIT GOFEN. BENEDICT INTERIOR: ©MARKUS BRAUMANN; TO THE BONE: ©RIAN DAVIDSON. L A LUCHA: COURTESY OF LA LUCHA.

Left and above left: the dining area and salmon eggs Benedict at Benedict. Above: modern Mexican cuisine at La Lucha. This photo: To The Bone.

DINING KEY Alc (à la carte): Prices are per person for three courses (excl. drinks) €: under €15. €€: €15–€40. €€€: €40–€80. €€€€: over €80. Restaurants listed in Fine Dining have at least one Michelin star. Letter/ number codes correspond to map at back of book. Recommended by Die Goldenen Schlüssel Deutschland e.V./U.I.C.H. Les Clefs d’Or.

FINE DINING For a complete list of Berlin's Michelin-starred restaurants, visit wheretraveler.com/berlin.

5 – Cinco by Paco Pérez Catalan star chef Paco Pérez’s very first endeavor outside Spain is this Michelin-starred restaurant in Das Stue Hotel. His aim is to tickle all five senses with avant-garde taste experiences that take full advantage of the flavors and ingredients of his home country. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.5-cinco.com. Drakestr. 1. T: 030.3117220. S Tiergarten. C3

Facil Situated in a glass atrium of The Mandala Hotel and ringed by the courtyard’s trees, Facil has mastered understated elegance in both its décor and cuisine. Double-Michelin-starred chef Michael Kempf is particularly masterful with seafood when creating his fine menus. €€€€. Mon–Fri L&D. www.facil.de. Potsdamer Str. 3. T: 030.590051234. S Potsdamer Platz. D3

CHRISTMAS & NEW YEAR'S EVE FOUR-COURSE MENU FOR EUR 85 P. PERSON & FIVE-COURSE MENU FOR EUR

RESTAURANT DUKE @ ELLINGTON HOTEL BERLIN +49 (0)30 68 315-4000 | CONTACT@DUKE-RESTAURANT.COM NÜRNBERGER STRASSE 50-55 | 10789 BERLIN | GERMANY

WWW.DUKE-RESTAURANT.COM

Fischers Fritz Pure, straightforward luxury is the formula at this restaurant in the Regent Berlin Hotel. One of just a handful of Berlin restaurants to earn two Michelin stars, Fischers Fritz will not fail to impress with its elevated cuisine and finely honed service. €€€€. Daily B, humuD. www.fischersfritzberlin.com. Charlottenstr. 49. T: 030.20336363. U Französische Straße. E3

Horváth Austria-born chef Sebastian Frank built a reputation – and earned a Michelin star – with his highly creative, oftentimes minimalist use of seasonal ingredients, from sunchokes to candied parsley root to spruce needles. Wooden interior and lovely outdoor patio. €€€. Wed–Sun D. www.restaurant-horvath.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 44a. T: 030.61289992. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer The Hotel Adlon restaurant boasts two Michelin stars and a well-earned spot in the upper echelon of Berlin’s finest restaurants. No detail is spared in the creation of an unforgettable dining experience. €€€€. Wed–Sat D. www.lorenzadlonesszimmer.de. Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2661196. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Ho Ho Ho Bavaria! German christmas at Maximilians.

Pauly Saal The chic, hip décor is matched by a menu of equally creative German cuisine, which was awarded a Michelin star in 2013. Meat dishes made from local game are a highlight. €€€. Daily L&D, closed Sun and Mon. www.paulysaal.com. Auguststr. 11–13. T: 030.33006070. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Reinstoff Chef Daniel Achilles didn’t earn two Michelin stars by playing it safe. The two nightly dinner menus at Reinstoff – one focused on regional tastes, the other incorporating influences from farther afield

Friedrichstraße 185–190 maximilians-berlin.de

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DINING – are successful experiments in exciting, avantgarde cuisine. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.reinstoff.eu. Schlegelstr. 26c. T: 030.30881214. U Naturkundemuseum, S Nordbahnhof. E2

like preserved lemon, sumac, and lamb. €€€. Daily D, closed Sun–Mon. www.glassberlin.de. Uhlandstr. 195. T: 030.54710861. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

Rutz

French haute cuisine with modern, creative twists. Both the à la carte options and the menu of monthly specials illustrate the restaurant’s dedication to top-quality meat, seafood, and regional produce. €€€. Mon–Sat L&D. www.duke-restaurant.com. Nürnberger Str. 50-55. T: 030.683154000. U Augsburger Straße. C4

Wine bar, wine shop, and restaurant in one, Rutz offers perfectly paired meals by Chef Marco Müller, whose six-, eight-, and 10-course “Inspiration Menus” combine simple yet diverse ingredients into creative taste sensations. €€€€. Tue–Sun D. www.rutz-weinbar.de. Chausseestr. 8. T: 030.24628760. U Oranienburger Tor. E4

Skykitchen

Indian Cuisine

Part of the andel’s Hotel, Skykitchen brings a welcome touch of luxury to the Lichtenberg district and was accordingly crowned with a Michelin star in 2014. Try chef Alexander Koppe’s four-course “From Berlin to the Sea” regional menu for modern takes on traditional favorites. €€€. Tue–Sat D. www.vi-hotels.com. Landsberger Allee 106. T: 030.4530532620. S Landsberger Allee. H2

Tim Raue From his humble beginnings growing up in Kreuzberg, Tim Raue has become one of the bestknown culinary names in Berlin. Plumbing the Far East for inspiration, his namesake restaurant serves refined interpretations of Asian cuisine, such as his famed personal take on Peking duck. €€€€. Tue–Sat L&D. www.tim-raue.com. Rudi-DutschkeStr. 26. T: 030.25937930. U Kochstraße. E4

Duke Restaurant French. The Ellington Hotel’s restaurant is all about

Gagans Indian. Just a five-minute walk from the Kurfürstendamm shopping boulevard, Gagans serves delicious North Indian specialties every day of the week, including daily lunch specials and a plentiful all-you-can-eat buffet on Sundays. A highlight are the sizzling meat dishes roasted the traditional way in a clay tandoor oven. €€. Daily L&D. www.gagans.de. Uhlandstr. 149. T: 030 37470302. U Spichernstraße. B4–C4.

Kushinoya Japanese. This upscale Japanese restaurant makes

fried finger-food taste gourmet. The specialty is kushiage, skewers of delicate morsels like steak cubes, quail eggs, or shiitake mushroom caps that are lightly breaded and fried using a special nongreasy technique. www.kushinoya.de. Bleibtreustr. 6. T: 030.31809897. S Savignyplatz. B4

Lamazère Brasserie French. Proof that fine dining needn’t break the

CHARLOTTENBURG– WILMERSDORF Glass Modern Arabic. A 2013 addition to the west-end

gourmet scene, Glass is the baby of Israeli chef Gal Ben Moshe. Guests in the sleek, modern space get wowed with an innovative tasting menu that does magical things with traditional Arabic ingredients

bank is Lamazère Brasserie, a much-lauded dining spot that earned “Bib Gourmand” status in the revered Michelin Guide, a category commending great food at good value. The three-course dinner menu for €38 will allow you to sample various French food musts, like oeufs cocotte baked eggs, charcuterie platters, duck confit, beef tartare, and tarte tatin for dessert. Whatever the kitchen has cooking that night, every delicacy has that je ne sas quoi that has made French cuisine so famous.

Luisenstraße 19 · 10117 Berlin www.wein-habel.de Tel.: +49 30 28 09 84 84 Mon – Sat 7 am – 12 pm, Sun 7 am – 12 am 56 W H E R E B E R L I N I D E C E M B E R 2017

Salumeria Lamuri (Köpenicker Str. 183) is a beautiful spot for a classic Italian lunch.

Since 1779, HABEL am Reichstag has stood for a timeless idea: the union of choice wines and satisfying regional cuisine in an atmosphere that is both homey and uncomplicated. A place in the new and old heart of the city for locals and visitors to come together. The wine bar is characterized by local specialties and the cuisine by classic and refined combinations. In addition to the restaurant, there are also event spaces for up to 300 guests. With centuries of moving history, HABEL and the capital city are a true Berlin tradition. See you soon in HABEL am Reichstag!

www.spindlerklatt.berlin

Restaurant & Club to y a d s e n Wed

p 7 m o r f turday

Kรถpenicker Str. 16/17 | Kreuzberg +49 [0] 30 319 88 18 60

DINING €€€. Tue-Sun D. www.lamazere.de. Stuttgarter Platz 18. T: 030.31800712. S Charlottenburg. B4

Paris Bar French. Many celebrities – including

Madonna, Sophia Loren, and Robert De Niro – have patronized this West Berlin institution over the years. The bistro-style menu includes French classics like oysters and steak-frites, though the legend alone is enough to draw guests. €€€. Daily L&D. www.parisbar.net. Kantstr. 152. T: 030.3138052. S Savignyplatz. C4

Wilson's – The Prime Rib Restaurant American. Juicy, high-quality meats cooked the American way and served with salads, potatoes and extravagant desserts. €€€. www.restaurant-wilsons. de. Crowne Plaza Berlin City Centre. Nürnberger Str. 65. T: 030.21007000. U Augsburger Straße. C4

FRIEDRICHSHAIN Matreshka Russian. Simple, homey Russian fare. Borscht, meatstuffed pelmeni dumplings and their vegetarian equivalent, vareniky, a selection of Georgian wines, and, of course, plenty of vodka. €. Daily L&D. Boxhagener Str. 60. T: 0163.9870767. S Ostkreuz. H3

Transit Asian Fusion. The long menu of tapas-style Thai and Indonesian dishes, each just a few euros, allows diners to cobble together a meal encompassing a wide range of tastes and ingredients. Other location in Rosenthaler Str. 68. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.transit-restaurants.com. Sonntagstr. 28. T: 030.26948415. S Ostkreuz. Off Map

KREUZBERG Jolesch Austrian. The dining room is elegant yet understated and this Austrian restaurant divides its menu into two sections: “modern” and “classic.” The former means creations like smoked veal tartare with elderflower; the latter refined renditions of home-style dishes like Tafelspitz beef or schnitzel. €€. Daily L&D. www. jolesch.de. Muskauer Str. 1. T: 030.6123581. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

Sale e Tabacchi Italian. A stone’s throw from Checkpoint

Charlie, an area that’s something of a culinary wasteland, lies this elegant Italian restaurant known for attracting celebrities. Try the ricotta-and mint-stuffed zucchini blossoms, a popular starter. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.sale-e-tabacchi.de. Rudi-Dutschke-Str. 23. T: 030.2521155. U Kochstraße. E4

Spindler German/European. Head chef Nicolas Gemin, formerly of Michelin-starred Pauly Saal, wows diners with upscale twists on German-European cuisine: Think cured salmon with beet pickles and ricotta, octopus and chorizo, or lamb shoulder with smothered Jerusalem artichokes. Also serves breakfast and weekend brunch. €€–€€€. Mon–Fri L, daily D. www.spindler-berlin.net. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 42. T: 030.69598880. U Kottbusser Tor, U Schönleinstraße. F4

Spindler & Klatt Asian-European fusion. Restaurant, lounge, and club in one, Spindler & Klatt makes full use of its

58 W H E R E B E R L I N I D E C E M B E R 2017

prime river location. In the summer, the waterside terrace is a memorable spot to enjoy the menu of Pan-Asian dishes, from fine sushi to sizzling tuna steaks and dry-aged Irish steaks hot off the grill. On Fridays and Saturdays, the spot transforms into a club from 23pm. €€€. Daily D. www.spindlerklatt. com. Köpenicker Str. 16–17. T: 030 319881860. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

MITTE AIGNER am Gendarmenmarkt Austrian/German. The Mitte restaurant boasts

an elegant interior and a view on stately Gendarmenmarkt. Styled after Vienna's famed coffeehouses, AIGNER adds a local touch with dishes like Brandenburg roast duck. €€€. Daily L&D. www. aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de. Französischestr. 25 T: 030.203751850. U Französische Straße. E3

Borchardt German/French. A favorite hobnobbing spot

of the rich and famous, Borchardt is popular for both its food (especially the schnitzel) as well as the opportunity to see and be seen. €€. Daily L&D. www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Französische Str. 47. T: 030.81886262. U Französische Straße. E3

Cookies Cream Vegetarian. A whole new kind of vegetarian

dining. First, there’s getting there, which feels more like going to an underground club than a restaurant. Then there’s the food, vegetarian eating gone haute cuisine, thanks to celebrity chef Stephan Hentschel. €€–€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.cookiescream.com. Behrenstr. 55. T: 030.27492940. U Französische Straße. E3

Crackers German. Heinz “Cookie” Gindullis' latest entry into the hybrid club/restaurant space features an innovative bar that serves experimental drinks and a rotating roster of international and local DJs four nights a week from 9pm until late. www. crackersberlin.com. Friedrichstr. 158. T: 030.680730488. U Französische Straße. E3

The Grand German. The sophisticated supper club, with origins reaching back to 1842, boasts an American grill that makes its international array of steaks among the best in town. The upstairs lounge attracts a decadent late-night scene. €€€. Mon–Fri L, Daily D. www.thegrand-berlin.com. Hirtenstraße 4. T: 030.278909555. Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Grill Royal German/French. A beloved destination of

Mitte’s well-dressed creative scenesters. There’s more to the menu than just grilled meat, though the steaks are indeed excellent. Lobster cocktail, ceviche, and oysters are just a few other additions to the fine menu. €€€. Daily D. www.grillroyal.com. Friedrichstr. 105b. T: 030.28879288. S Friedrichstraße. E3

Hofbräuhaus German. An Oktoberfest atmosphere for the

whole family 365 days a year. This restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner in typical Bavarian style, alongside live music, waiters in traditional costume, and the traditional Hofbräu beer, brewed in Munich since the 1700s. Expect dumplings and roasted ham hock at their popular Sunday brunch. €. www.hofbraeu-wirtshaus.de. Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 30.

Experience selected Szechuan and Cantonese foods in modern ambience The best Peking duck in town Am Kupfergraben 4 / 4A 10117 Berlin daily opened 12:00-23:00

Reservation: 030 - 200 595 00 www.restaurant-jolly.de

www.wheretraveler.com 59

DINING T: 030 679665520. U + S Alexanderplatz. F2

India Club Indian. Just steps away from the Brandenburg Gate is this luxurious hideaway for high-end North Indian cuisine, boasting an ambience that is both elegant and colorful. A renowned chef flown in from New Delhi lends his masterful touch to the menu of extravagantly spiced specialties. €€€. Daily D. www.india-club-berlin.com. Behrenstr. 72. T: 030.20628610. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Jolly Chinese. Just across the water from Museum Island, Jolly’s location couldn’t be better for a tasty Chinese meal in between sightseeing stops. Bring an appetite to try as many of the steamed dim sum dumplings as possible before moving on to the menu’s extensive variety of Sichuan-style and Cantonese dishes. Traditional Peking duck is the house specialty. €€. Daily L&D. www.restaurant-jolly.de. Am Kupfergraben 4–4a. T: 030.20059500. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Katjes Veggie Café Grün- Ohr Vegetarian. It’s heaven for the sweet-toothed. The

shop and café by Katjes not only stocks the brand’s full line of vegetarian-friendly, gelatin-free gummy

candy, but also a rainbow of vegan cupcakes, coffee, and freshly squeezed juices that can be enjoyed on site or to go. €. Rosenthaler Str. 32. T: 030.97894702. www.cafegruenohr.de. F2

Käfer Dachgarten-Restaurant of the German Bundestag German. The Reichstag is for more than sightseeing. Thanks to the culinary team behind Käfer, it’s also a fine dining destination. On the roof of the famed landmark, Käfer boasts splendid views and refined, modern German cuisine. Advance reservations required. Due to security precautions, each guest must provide official photo I.D. upon entry. €€€. Daily B, L, D. www.feinkost-kaefer.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030 2262990. U Bundestag, S Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3.

parade.” From the four kinds of Paulaner beer on tap to the warm hospitality, Maximilians goes to great lengths to transport a piece of Bavaria to the heart of Mitte. €–€€. Daily L&D. www. maximiliansrestaurant.de. Friedrichstr. 185–190. T: 030.20450559. U Stadtmitte. E3

Nante Eck German. With delightful dishes from

Berlin’s traditional cuisine and a menu that changes every month, the Nante Eck restaurant offers a refined cuisine made with fresh Berliner Weisse is a pale local ingredients. Specialties ale brewed only in the include extra-big currywurst and capital and usually Flammkuchen pies. Very long beer served with a shot menu. €. Daily L&D. www.nante-eck. of syrup. de. Unter den Linden 35. T: 030.22487257. U Französische Straße. F2

Maximilians German. Maximilians recreates the feel of a cozy

Bavarian beer hall with hearty food and plentiful beer. Meaty specialties include pork knuckle served with dumplings and sauerkraut, freshly baked pretzels, and the tempting “Munich sausage

Neumond German. The sight of Neumond’s historic and

refined counter is a hint at the restaurant’s simple elegance – in both interior design and menu, which includes a vast selection of courses; classics and specials. And for everyone with a sweet tooth: There’s a white chocolate mousse on the dessert menu. To top it all off: A bar with a variety of drinks to choose from. Borsigstr. 28, Mitte. Daily L and Tue-Sun D. www.office@neumond-restaurant.de. T: 030.2857505. S Nordbahnhof. E2

PRENZLAUER BERG I Due Forni Italian. The atmosphere in this pizza hall is raucous and the service notoriously surly, but that doesn’t keep the pizza-loving crowds at bay. The generously sized and traditional-style thin-crust concoctions are famed around the city. €. Daily L&D. Schönhauser Allee 12. T: 030.44017333. U Senefelderplatz. F2

Lucky Leek Vegetarian. It’s not luck that makes Lucky Leek so good, but rather a dedication to creating top-notch gourmet cuisine that is also 100-percent vegan and incorporates international tastes. The small but comprehensive menu changes regularly. €€. Wed–Sun D. www.lucky-leek.de. U Senefelderplatz. F2

Good Old Christmas Goose

SCHÖNEBERG

On Christmas Eve, the Swedes feast on meatballs, the Czechs eat fried carp, while the Brits prefer turkey. There are countless Christmas dinner traditions around the world, but here in Germany, the most beloved holiday dish is roast goose: rich meat under a layer of golden skin, served with stewed red cabbage and dumplings to soak up the gravy. To give the traditional festive meal a try this month, there are numerous restaurants to choose from. Aigner (Französische Str. 25, www. aignergendarmenmarkt.de) is a popular German-Austrian restaurant on elegant Gendarmenmarkt, conveniently close to that square’s charming Christmas market. Throughout December, the traditional platter of roast goose joins the menu. Prater, the oldest beer garden in the city, has a cozy indoor restaurant serving hearty, classic dishes to go with the Prater beer. Home-style roast goose is a special feature on the menu until 22 December. Pre-ordering is a must, and only a whole goose – which feeds up to four – can be ordered at a time. If you can’t wrangle up a crew, don’t worry: single-serving portions of roast Brandenburg duck are also on the menu, with the same tasty cabbage and dumplings. Charlottenburg’s German bistro Jules Verne (Schlüterstr. 61, www.jules-verne-berlin.de) also does a stellar roast goose with local, free-range birds. Word to the wise: if your heart is set on goose, it’s wise to reserve.

German. A stylish, design-oriented spot in

60 W H E R E B E R L I N I D E C E M B E R 2017

More the bustling Nollendorfplatz neighborhood, More’s specialty is modern German cuisine with international influences. Classics like schnitzel and Königsberger Klopse meatballs are equally as delicious as fusion-style options such as salmon tartare with avocado and wasabi, or softly braised octopus with lime. €€.Daily L&D. www.more-berlin. de. Motzstr. 28. T: 030.23635702. C4

TIERGARTEN Modern European. With its spacious terrace, classy lounge, and sweeping cityscape views, Golvet is much more than a restaurant – it's also a prime spot for taking in the sunset with an aperitif in hand. The ambiance of sleek Nordic-inspired style pairs perfectly with the menu of high-end European fusion dishes €€. Tues–Sat D. www.golvet.de. Potsdamer Str. 58, 8th floor. T: 030.89064222. S Tiergarten. D4

Golvet

NEW YEAR‘S EVE

3 1 12

THE GRAND New Year’s Eve 2017/2018 All tickets are available online, through www.eventbrite.de. Entry to the NYE party is included. +49 (0) 30 278 909 95 55 www.the-grand-berlin.com The Grand Master Betriebs GmbH Hirtenstraße 4, 10178 Berlin

ENTERTAINMENT | THE GUIDE

Left and this photo: scenes from Parade – Fear Love Circus. Inset, below: Going back in time at a Baroque Residenzkonzert performance.

There's nothing like some winter magic to get into the holiday atmosphere. Solveig Steinhardt picked the most enchanted shows of the season. Here in Berlin, the chances of getting a white Christmas are actually quite high. Should global warming get in the way, however, do not fret: There are many other ways to get into the holiday spirit. Drink a cup of warm Glühwein, go ice-skating at the Christmas market in Alexanderplatz, buy a traditional Christmas pyramid… But one thing you should never skip come December is a good artistic performance. To get into the magical and mysterious atmosphere of contemporary circus, visit Chamäleon Theater (p. 66). This small, cozy venue inside the Hackesche Höfe is the only one in the German-speaking world to exclusively specialize in this art form, a combination of dance, street circus, acrobatics, and music. Their current show, PARADE– Fear Love Circus, pictured above, is a tale of contradiction and contrast: Simple costumes and an empty, informal set make up a neutral backdrop against which the 62 W H E R E B E R L I N I D E C E M B E R 2017

spectacular human acrobatics and dance really stand out in an alternation of energetic group choreography and intimate moments. It wouldn’t be Christmas, at least for the Germans, without J.S. Bach's Christmas Oratorio, the Leipzig master’s festive musical rendition of the nativity scene. If you are not familiar with it, imagine a powerful medley of harmonious and expressive pieces alternating choir, solos, and recitativo narration. Catch it on 16 Dec at the Berliner Dom (p. 42) or check out the programs of the smaller churches around town for local concerts, most of which meet very high musical standards thanks to local German choir tradition.

To delve even deeper into classical atmospheres, travel back in time with a Residenzkonzert at Schloss Charlottenburg (p. 42). Starting with a three-course dinner in the palace's Orangerie, these concerts are performed by musicians in period costumes and 1700s wigs on most Wednesdays and Saturdays until 23 December. It’s songs like Santa Claus is coming to town and Have yourself a merry little Christmas that made Frank Sinatra's music so iconic of the Christmas period. For some old Sinatra holiday vibes, get tickets to I did it my way on 17 Dec (4pm) at Universität der Künste (Hardenbergstr. 33, www.udk-berlin.de) near Zoologischer Garten. A concert that fits perfectly with some holiday shopping on the Ku'damm!

PARADE: PHOTO BY KOONÉ, COURTESY OF PARADE; RESIDENZKONZERTE: COURTESY OF RESIDENZKOKERTE.

Get In The Mood

The Joy of Giving!

BALLET & OPERA Deutsche Oper A 1960s décor-free box of acoustic magic. Director and conductor Donald Runnicles puts together rich programs with lots of Verdi, Rossini, and Mozart. 2 Dec: Tannhäuser (Wagner). 3, 9, 16 Dec: Le Prophète (Meyerbeer). 10, 15, 21, 28 Dec: The Marriage of Figaro (Mozart). 17 Dec: Lohengrin (Wagner). 20, 23, 29, 31 Dec: La Bohème (Puccini). 26, 30 Dec: The Barber of Seville (Rossini). 27 Nov: The Magic Flute (Mozart). www.deutscheoperberlin. de. T: 030.34384343. U Deutsche Oper. B3

CineStar vouchers.

Komische Oper Young and daring opera productions won this theater the title of Opera House of the Year 2013. Australian intendant Barrie Kosky is also the artistic director of some of the performances, with mesmerizing results. 1, 13, 28 Dec: Petruschka (L'Enfant et les Sortilèges (Stravinsky/Ravel). 2, 14, 23 Dec: Pelléas et Mélisande (Debussy). 3, 5, 6, 9, 16, 21, 22, 27, 29, 31 Dec: Anatevka (Jerry Bock). 7, 10, 11, 18 Dec: Die Bremer Stadtmusikanten (Sendil). 17, 30 Dec: Fairytale at the Grand Hotel (Abraham). 20, 26 Dec: The Magic Flute (Mozart). 25 Dec: La Belle Helene (Offenbach). www.komische-operberlin.de. Behrensstr. 55-57. T: 030.47997400. U Französische Straße. E3

Staatsoper Unter Den Linden Berlin's historic opera house reopened in 2017 after lengthy renovations. Barenboim's perfect productions range from Baroque operas to contemporary premieres. 7 Dec: Birthday Concert 275 Years. 8, 11, 12 , 23, 25 Dec: Hänsel und Gretel (Humperdinck). 9, 10, 13 Dec: LIncoronazione di Poppea (Monteverdi). 14, 17 Dec: Scenes from Goethe's Faust (Schumann). 22, 27, 30 Dec: La Bohème (Puccini). 26 Dec: The Magic Flute (Mozart). 31 Dec: New Year's Concert. www.staatsoperberlin.de. T: 030.2035540. Unter den Linden 7. U Alexanderplatz. E3

Staatsballett Berlin’s ballet company currently performs at various locations. 11 Dec: Duato / Schechter at Komische Oper. 1, 7, 8, 13, 14, 19, 25 Dec: The Nutcracker (Tchaikovsky) at Deutsche Oper. 15, 28 Dec: Jewels at Staatsoper Unter den Linden. 21 Dec: Giselle (Adam) at Staatsoper Unter den Linden. www.staatsballett-berlin.de. T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3

CLASSICAL CONCERTS Berliner Dom Berlin’s main cathedral presents a plethora of sacred music concerts year round. www. berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269136. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Hochschule für Musik Hans Eisler One of Berlin’s most prestigious music academies. Its students are members of important orchestras, choirs, and bands, and the stage presents hundreds of concerts every year – many of which are free. www.hfm-berlin.de. Charlottenstr. 55. T: 030.688305700. U Stadtmitte. E3

Chamber Music Hall of the Philharmonie Part of the Philharmonie, this concert hall presents daily chamber-music concerts and free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays. 1 Dec: Leif Ove Andsnes (piano) plays Sibelius Schubert, Chopin, Beethoven. 7 Dec: Tenor Mark Padmore

Lights... Camera...Berlin! A city with as much history as Berlin makes for a perfect backdrop to some memorable movies. From classics to recent Hollywood blockbusters, here are some must-see German and English films, from oldest to newest, that star Berlin.

Gift cards from

10 €

BERLIN: SYMPHONY OF A GREAT CITY (1927) This black-and-white beauty of a silent film depicts a day in the life of a bygone Berlin – a must-see for history fans.

CABARET (1972) This cinematic classic starring Liza Minnelli, depicting the famous era of swinging 1930s Berlin as the Nazis were rising to power, was filmed in both the capital and southern Germany.

WINGS OF DESIRE (1987)

5-Stars-Ticket

5 cinema visits on one card

only 35 €

This gloomily beautiful love story by German heavyweight director Wim Wenders is like an ode to West Berlin. One iconic scene features the main character atop the Siegessäule column in Tiergarten.

RUN LOLA RUN (1998) This runaway (pun intended) international success takes its viewers on a heartthumping sprint all over town. One key location: the red-bricked Oberbaum Bridge.

THE BOURNE SUPREMACY (2004) Trained assassin Jason Bourne is chased all over the city in this thriller. Look for major cameos by the Friedrichstraße S-Bahn bridge and Alexanderplatz, for example.

THE LIVES OF OTHERS (2006)

Cinema for Two

2 tickets, 2 drinks, 1 snack

only 26

€

Vouchers available at the cinema or at shop.cinestar.de

This Oscar winner does a stellar job illustrating life in East Berlin, with scenes shot in the former Stasi headquarters in Lichtenberg and the Volksbühne theater in Mitte, for example.

www.wheretraveler.com 63

ENTERTAINMENT sings Schubert's Winterreise. 17 Dec: Berlin Piano Quartet performs Mahler, Schumann, Brahms. 19 Dec: Ensemble Berlin Prag performs Zelenka, Idang, Couperin, Bach. www.berlinerphilharmoniker.de. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Konzerthaus This charismatic 1821 concert hall is the base theater of the Konzerthausorchester, but other orchestras and soloists grace its stage regularly. 1–3 Dec: Konzerthausorchester Berlin, Dresdner Kreuzchor (cond. Kriele) perform Weber and Hasse. 7 Dec: K&K Philharmoniker perform a concert version of Mozart's Die Zauberflöte. 8, 10 Dec: Konzerthausorchester (cond. Natalie Stutzmann), music by Mendelssohn, Mozart, Brahms. 14–16 Dec: Konzerthausorchester (cond. Fischer), play Mendelssohn and Mahler. 17 Dec: Berlin Singakademie: Vespri della Beata Vergine (Monteverdi). 25 Dec: Big Christmas Concert with the Anhaltischen Philharmonie Dessau. 28 Dec: Chopin Gala with pianist Pietro Massa. 30 and 31 Dec: Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin, Rundfunkchor Berlin (cond. Vladimir Jurowski), perform Schönberg and Beethoven. www. konzerthaus.de. Gendarmenmarkt. T: 030.203092101. U Hausvogteiplatz. E3

Philharmonie

Pierre Boulez Saal Berlin’s newest concert hall is part of the Barenboim-Said Akademie, an institution dedicated to bringing together talented young musicians from Arab, Israeli, and Christian backgrounds. A unique, modern design by the venerable Frank Gehry design ensures stunning acoustics, and co-founder Daniel Barenboim makes regular appearances on stage. 1 Dec: Boulez Ensemble & Francois Xavier Roth. 7 Dec: Talking Jazz I. 14–16 Dec: Arabic Music Days. www.boulezsaal.de. Französische Str. 33D. T: 030 47997411. U Französische Straße. E3

Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin Injecting new expression into 19th- and 20th-

DECCA © ESTHER HAASE

The iconic concert venue is home to the acclaimed Berliner Philharmoniker, currently led by Sir Simon Rattle, but also hosts other ensembles and

soloists. Free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays 1pm. 2–4 Dec: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Haitink) perform Mahler. 8–10 Dec: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Bolmstedt) perform Mozart and Bruckner. 13 Dec: Les Arts Florissants (cond. Christie) performs Monteverdi. 14–16 Dec: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Thielemann) play Beethoven's Missa solemnis. 17 Dec: Cecilia Bartoli and Sol Gabetta, recital. 20–22 Dec: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Fischer) play Beethoven's Missa solemnis. 29–31 Dec: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Sir Simon Rattle) performDvorak, Stravinsky, Bernstein, and Shostakovich. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

64 W H E R E B E R L I N I D E C E M B E R 2017

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES century classical works under the lead of Marek Janowski, the oldest German radio orchestra with its 103 members has won a place in the top tier of European concert orchestras. www.rsb-online.de. Tickets: 030.20298715.

DANCE AND EXPERIMENTAL SPACES Dock 11 Studios & Eden Avant-garde dance shows and contemporary performances inside an old factory. Two locations, one in Prenzlauer Berg, one in Pankow. www.dock11-berlin.de. Dock 11 Studios: Kastanienallee 79. T: 030.4481222. U Eberswalder Straße, Rosenthaler Platz. F2; Eden Studios: Breite Str. 43 (Pankow). T: 030.35120312. S+U Pankow. Off Map

www.radialsystem.de. Holzmarktstr. 33. T: 030.288788588. S+U Jannowitzbrücke. G3

ROCK, POP, JAZZ

Sophiensaele

Since 1992, this intimately sized but important venue (it was named Best German Jazzclub in 2011) has welcomed both emerging and A-list talent, including Wynton Marsalis, Herbie Hancock, and Diana Krall. Daily from 8pm, free entry Sunday after 10:30pm. www.a-trane.de. Pestalozzistr. 105. T: 030.3132550. S Savignyplatz. B3/B4

Choreographer Sasha Waltz’s center for avantgarde dance, contemporary theater (mainly in German), music, and experimental performance artists. www.sophiensaele.com. Sophienstr. 18. T: 030.2835266. U Weinmeisterstraße, S Hackescher Markt, S Oranienburger Straße. E2

MOVIE THEATERS CinemaxX Potsdamer Platz Multiplex cinema. Most of the movies are screened in their original language, with or without subtitles. www.cinemaxx.de. Potsdamer Str. 5. T: 040.80806969. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

During his Berlin stay in the 1970s, David Bowie shared his Hauptstraße 157 apartment with Iggy Pop.

HAU (Hebbel am Ufer) Cutting-edge shows and hip performances at this off-theater and cultural point. www.hebbel-amufer.de. Stresemannstr. 29; Tempelhofer Ufer 10; Hallesches Ufer 32. T: 030.2590040. U Hallesches Tor. E4

Cinestar Sony Center

Radialsystem V

Odeon

Once a turn-of-the-century pumping station for the Berlin Water Services, this creative space is now a cultural center and idea factory that hosts performances of all kinds, from classical concerts to jazz jam sessions to contemporary dance.

This old-school single-screen cinema was Berlin’s first English-language theater and still screens both cult movies and new releases. Hauptstr. 116. T: 030.78704019. U Rathaus Schöneberg, S Schöneberg. C5

The latest Hollywood blockbusters, in English, every day. www.cinestar.de. Potsdamer Str. 4. T: 030.26066400. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

A-Trane

Arena A very large music hall that used to be a bus depot. www.arena-berlin.de. Eichenstr. 4. T: 030.5332030. S Treptower Park, Schlesisches Tor. G4

B Flat Jazz Club Small jazz bands play almost every night at this bar. Free jam sessions every Wednesday. www.b-flatberlin.de. Dircksenstr. 40. T: 030.2833123. S+U Alexanderplatz. F2

Café Bilderbuch Frequent jazz concerts and readings at this Schöneberg café. Second Wednesday of the month: Michael Gechter’s Vocaljazz Trio. www.cafe-bilderbuch.de. Akazienstr. 28. T: 030.78706057. U Eisenacherstraße. D5

Columbiahalle/C-Halle The multi-function event space hosts some of today’s most popular pop and rock acts. 1 Dec: HIM. 2 Dec: Little Steven & The Disciples of Soul. 3 Dec: Gentleman.

THE CAST – die Opernband December 05 to January 07 Tickets 030. 883 15 82 // www.bar-jeder-vernunft.de www.wheretraveler.com 65

ENTERTAINMENT www.columbia-theater.de. Columbiadamm 13-21. T: 030.69812814. U Platz der Luftbrücke. E5

Estrel Festival Center Berlin Enjoy an evening with the world’s top look-andsound-alike artists and taste a three-course dinner during Stars In Concert, a live performance of legends like Elvis, Abba, Johnny Cash, Buddy Holly, and more. www.stars-in-concert.de. Wed– Sat 8:30pm, Sun 7pm. Sonnenallee 225. €20, from €60 with dinner. Off Map

KulturBrauerei The early-1900s brewery complex now houses various restaurants and art spaces, with a rich combination of programs, as well as a very popular street-food market most Sundays. www. kulturbrauerei.de. Schönhauser Allee 36. T: 030.44352614. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin A massive arena for world-touring pop concerts and sports events, including those of Berlin’s professional ice hockey team, the Eisbären. 2 Dec: 2Cellos. 6 Dec: Disney in Concert. www. mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de. Mühlenstr. 12–30. T: 030.2060708899. U Warschauer Straße. G4

Quasimodo One of Berlin’s historic music cafés. Diversified program with many musical styles, from jazz to blues, R&B to soul. www.quasimodo.de. Kantstr. 12a. T: 030.31804560. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Tempodrom This large concert building resembling a circus tent – and situated on the former grounds of the now-gone Anhalter Bahnhof – hosts an array of events, from classical concerts and pop-rock productions to mixed martial arts and dance. 1 Dec: Fink in concert. 5 Nov: Royal Christmas Gala. 9, 10 Dec: Chippendales. 16 Dec–2 Jan: Roncalli Christmas circus. www. tempodrom.de. Möckernstr. 10. Toll number: 0186.554111. S Anhalter Bahnhof. E4

THEATER, CABARET & MUSICALS Admiralspalast One of Berlin’s few preserved pre-WWII variety venues offers an international, high-caliber program of musicals, cabaret, and concerts in an elegant hall from the 1920s. www.admiralspalast.

de. Friedrichstr. 101. T: 030.47997499. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Bar Jeder Vernunft A 1912 tent housing song-and-dance shows, comedy, and cabaret. Many shows in German only. www.bar-jeder-vernunft.de. Schaperstr. 24. T: 030.8831582. U Spichernstraße. C4

Blue Man Group The unmistakable Blue Man Group has its own permanent theater, the Bluemax Theater, where the blue-domed performers present an energetic combination of music, art, pantomime, and comedy. The few spoken words are in English. Shows take place almost every night. Check website for info. www.stage-entertainment.de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Chamäleon Variete An old ballroom where audiences can experience a young genre that mixes acrobatics with music, dance, and visual arts. All month: Parade: Fear Love Circus. www.chamaeleonberlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 40/41. T: 030.4000590. S Hackescher Markt. E2

Friedrichstadt-Palast Berlin MUST SEE With the biggest stage in the world, this is Berlin's most spectacular theater and a must-see acccording to The New York Times. Take in special effects and glitzy Vegas-style live shows. All month: The One Grand Show, with 100 artists and acrobats, is a dreamlike journey through time in search of the person we love. www.palast.berlin Friedrichstr. 107. T: 030.23262326. U Friedrichstraße. E3

Kookaburra Tuesday is English Comedy Night at this popular comedy club, and there’s also an English intermezzo late on Saturday nights. www.comedyclub.de. Schönhauser Allee 184. T: 030.48623186. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Quatsch Comedy Club This popular club hosts frequent stand-up comedy shows and a regular English-language night. www. quatschcomedyclub.de. Friedrichstr. 107. Toll number: 01806.999000969. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Schaubühne A popular West Berlin theater in the 1960 and 1970s, this Ku’damm performance venue still hosts some interesting productions. Check website for program. www.schaubuehne.de. Kurfürstendamm 153. U Adenauerplatz. C4

Tipi am Kanzleramt

The big screen, the smell of popcorn, the dark theater, the comfy chairs... No matter how often you go to the movies, it is always like a special event, even more so when it's cold outside. Germans love to dub their movies, but some of the city's Kinos have made it their mission to stick to the original language, listed as "OV"or "OmU" on theater schedules. The most popular English-language theater is CineStar at Potsdamer Platz (www.cinestar.de), which not only screens films in their original language but is also one of the few movie houses to sell salty (and not sweet) popcorn. If you are in the western part of town, check out Zoo Palast (above, www.zoopalastberlin.de), the former home of the Berlinale film festival. Its recent renovation turned it into one of the city's most luxurious cinemas. For more of an arthouse feel, there's the Odeon in Schöneberg (www.yorck.de). Berlin's only English-language theater during the Cold War, the Odeon is still there, featuring a somewhat alternative daily program.

66 W H E R E B E R L I N I D E C E M B E R 2017

Volksbühne An experimental multimedia theater and cultural center where you can see plays, readings, lectures, concerts, and more. Check website for program. www.volksbuehne-berlin.de. Linienstr. 227. T: 030.24065777. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Wintergarten Varieté This sumptuous variety theater that has earned a reputation for its revitalized Vaudeville-inspired productions, as well as world-famous acts. All month: Sayonara Tokyo. www.wintergartenberlin.de. Potsdamer Str. 96. T: 030.588433. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

ZOO PALAST: PHOTO BY JAN BITTER

Undubbed Pleasures

The big tent in the Tiergarten has a vast program of musicals, magic, cabaret, dance, and theater. Many shows are in German. 18 Dec: CarringtonBrown. www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de. Große Querallee. T: 030.39066550. U Bundestag. D3

HIGHLIGHTS • BERLIN, PHILHARMONIE

UTE LEMPER

ON THIS MONTH

Russian Chamber Philarmonic St. Petersburg • Cond. Juri Gilbo

THEATER, MUSICALS & DANCE

02.01.18 Tue 20:00

Programme: „Stadtkind“

BLUE MAN GROUP Bluemax Theater, all month

THE

THE ONE: GRAND SHOW

BEST OF

Friedrichstadt-Palast, all month

ENNIO MORRICONE

100 participants • Cond.: Marco Seco

PARADE

09.01.18 Tue 20:00

Chamäleon Theater, all month

CARRINGTON-BROWN

Once Upon a Time in the West, Django Unchained, Hateful 8 & many more

Tipi am Kanzleramt, 18 Dec

SAYONARA TOKYO

HIGHLIGHTS • BERLIN, ADMIRALSPALAST

Wintergarten Variete, all month

HAVANA NIGHTS

Havana Queens Company & des Circo National De Cuba

07.03.18 Wed 20:00 The new, world-class Caribbean Dance Musical

Tickets at all known ticket-shop & online at

Hundreds of listings every month

ROCK, JAZZ, POP LITTLE STEVEN & THE DISCIPLES OF SOUL FINK Tempodrom, 1 Dec

GENTLEMAN C-Halle, 3 Dec

BALLET & CLASSICAL 275TH ANNIVERSARY CONCERT Staatsoper Unter den Linden, 7 Dec

THE NUTCRACKER Staatsballett, 1, 7, 8, 13, 14, 19, 25 Dec

THE MAGIC FLUTE Staatsoper, 26 Dec

ANATEVKA Komische Oper, from 3 Dec

©ISTOCK

DIE ZAUBERFLÖTE AT THE STAATSOPER: PHOTO BY MONIKA RITTERSHAUS.

C-Halle, 2 Dec

Berlin www.wheretraveler.com 67

NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE

Party In The New Year With food, friends, fizz, and, frankly, a rather frightening amount of fireworks on the streets, Berliners love to mark New Year’s Eve with plenty of fanfare. Known as Silvester, the night is one long celebration in Berlin, with plenty of options for partying well into the wee hours of 2018. The mother of all celebrations is held at Brandenburg Gate, said to be one of the biggest outdoor New Year’s Eve celebrations in the world. Bundle up and join 1 million other fun-seekers for two kilometers of live music, DJs, dancing, food, drink, and a thrilling fireworks display. Another outdoor spectacle, though an informal one, takes over Kreuzberg's Viktoriapark. With a 66-meter-high hill on one end, topped with a gothic memorial, the park provides a great view of the city as it veritably explodes in fireworks at the stroke of 12. Everyone is welcome to join in 68 W H E R E B E R L I N I D E C E M B E R 2017

the amateur pyrotechnics – you’ll find fireworks for sale pretty much everywhere starting from the 29th. Don’t forget to bring along some champagne! If you prefer to celebrate New Year’s Eve with a touch of class, book a table at The Grand (Hirtenstr. 4, www. the-grand-berlin.com), a restaurant, bar, and club together under one elegant, stylish roof. Start the night with a deluxe fourcourse dinner, followed by a champagne toast at midnight and dancing until dawn. Golvet (Potsdamer Str. 58, www.golvet.de), the newest fine dining hotspot on the city’s gastronomy scene, is also pulling out all the stops to throw a Silvester bash. The five-course prix fixe meal includes wine pairings and amazing

wraparound views over Potsdamer Platz. For even more dazzling views, the iconic TV Tower (Panoramastr. 1A, www.tv-turm.de) is once again throwing its popular New Year’s gala 63 stories up in the sky, with live entertainment, all-inclusive drinks and champagne, and an optional banquet buffet. Wherever you go, make sure to book early to avoid disappointment. For party animals, there’s Silvester Ticket Berlin (www. silvesterticket-berlin.de). One wristband grants access to a whopping eight different parties, use of bus and boat shuttles between the venues, and allinclusive drinks all night long. With 26 dance floors and music styles for every taste, a memorable New Year’s Eve is guaranteed.

©ISTOCK.

It’s almost time to say goodbye, 2017 and hello, 2018. Hilda Hoy knows all the best spots to celebrate New Year’s Eve.

NIGHTLIFE

BEER Ankerklause A canal-side tavern where drinks come with beautiful views of passing boats. Daily from 10am (Mon from 4pm). www.ankerklause.de. Kottbusser Damm 104. T: 030.6935649. U Schönleinstraße. F4

Café am Neuen See and Biergarten A pleasant lakeside beer garden inside the verdant Tiergarten park. Open daily from breakfast onwards. www.cafeamneuensee.de. Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930. S Tiergarten. C3

Club der Visionäre This canal-side boat-shack attracts young crowds till early morning and beyond. Daily from 2pm until very late (from noon Sat & Sun). www.clubdervisionaere.com. Am Flutgraben 1. T: 030.69518942. U Schlesisches Tor, S Treptower Park. G4

Dicke Wirtin This old Berliner Kneipe restaurant is a Charlottenburg institution. Great beer and traditional German dishes. Daily from 11am. www.dicke-wirtin.de. Carmerstr. 9. T: 030.3124952. S Savignyplatz, S+U Zoologischer Garten. B4

Prater Berlin’s oldest Biergarten serves simple and homely cuisine, seasonal specialties, and lots of beer of course! Daily from 6pm (from noon Sat). www.pratergarten.de. Kastanienallee 7-9. T: 030.4485688. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Schleusenkrug A relaxing spot for beer lovers amid the lush greenery of the Tiergarten. German specialties to go with your beer include a variety of cakes, Flammkuchen, and a few breakfast options. Daily from 11am. www.schleusenkrug.de. Müller-BreslauStr. T: 030.3139909. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

CASINOS Spielbank Berlin A modern casino offering three floors of fun and games, including 20 tables of roulette, blackjack, and an extensive variety of poker options, as well as 350 gaming machines.Daily from 11am. www.spielbank-berlin.de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1. T: 030.255990. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3/D4

WINE & COCKTAILS Bar Tausend Celebrities mingle while watching the expert mixologists do their magic at this futuristic bar. Thu–Sat from 7:30pm. www.tausendberlin. com. Schiffbauerdamm 11. T: 030.27582070. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Fragrances The Ritz-Carlton’s bar is the world’s only to pair cocktails with perfumes. Each drink is represented by a tester

bottle of the perfume it’s based on and a photo illustrating the final presentation, which ranges from playful to whimsical. www.ritzcarlton.com. Potsdamer Platz 3. T:030.337777. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

The Grand A former school building has been transformed into a super-hip restaurant, bar and club all mixed into one. Enjoy top cocktails and a selection of cigars on the green leather couches in the 1920s-inspired bar, then dance the night away in the chic, intimate club. www.the-grand-berlin.com. Hirtenstr. 4. T: 030.2789099555. S+U Alexanderplatz. B4

Green Door Cocktail Bar One of Berlin’s most relaxing cocktail bars, with a retro style and lots of kitsch décor. The cocktail list is long and the barman famous. Daily 6pm–3am (Fri–Sat until 4am). www.greendoor.de. Winterfeldtstr. 50. T: 030.2152515. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

The Unique Bar An international drink menu with 200+ different cocktails, served to a jazz soundtrack. Mon–Sat from 4pm. www.esplanade.de. Grand Hotel Esplanade Berlin, Lützowufer 15. T: 030.254780. Bus M29, stop Lützowplatz. D4

LaBanca Bar The Hotel de Rome’s bar team specializes in avantgarde cocktails made with unusual ingredients such as balsamic vinegar, rose petals, or ginger beer. Live music Wed–Sat, rooftop terrace in summer. www.hotelderome.com. Behrenstr. 37. T: 030.4606090. U Französische Straße. E3

Newton Bar Cigars, champagne, whiskey, and cocktails define this bar, which is entirely dedicated to fashion photographer Helmut Newton. Daily 10am–3am (until 4am Fri–Sat). www.newton-bar.de. Charlottenstr. 57. T: 030.20295421. U Französische Straße. E3

Reingold A classic cocktail bar, 1920s style. Elegant leather sofas, sumptuous lighting, and gilded elements with a soundtrack ranging from soul and funk to R&B. Tue–Sat from 7pm. www.reingold.de. Novalisstr. 11. T: 030.28387676. U Oranienburger Tor. E2

Schwarzes Café A 24-hour combination of a bar and a café, with a good selection of beer and wine and hot meals at any time of night. Lovely garden. 24h a day except Tue from 3–10am. www.schwarzescafe-berlin.de. Kantstr. 148. T: 030.3138038. U Uhlandstraße, U Savignyplatz. B4

Times Bar A fine and luxurious bar inside the Savoy Hotel, offering modern drinks and Caribbean cocktails alongside a selection of Cuban cigars. www.weinrot-restaurant.com. Fasanenstr. 9-10.

Indulge in some whiskeys at Newton Bar, Charlottenstr. 57.

CLUB GUIDE BERGHAIN/PANORAMA BAR The world's most famous techno club – and with the toughest doormen too. Fri 12am–Mon. www.berghain.de. Am Wriezener Bahnhof. G3

KATER BLAU A top-notch soundsystem driving house and techno beats from the best DJs, and a carnival-like atmosphere. Fri–Sat from midnight. www.katerblau.de. Holzmarktstr. 25. G3

TRESOR Housed in the safe of a department store, Tresor was the first techno club in Berlin’s post-Wall years. www.tresorberlin.com. Köpenicker Str. 70. F3

WATERGATE A two-story electro, house, and drum & bass temple, right on the Spree River. Tight doors. Mon, Wed–Sat from midnight. www.water-gate.de. Falckensteinstr. 49. G4

HOUSE OF WEEKEND Three floors, fabulous views over the city, and the best DJs playing techno and house. Fri–Sun from 11pm. www.week-end-berlin.de. Alexanderplatz 7. F3

CLÄRCHENS BALLHAUS A popular, century-old dance hall. It's salsa on Mon, tango on Tues, swing on Wed, cha cha on Thu, and live ballroom music on Fri+Sat. www.ballhaus.de. Auguststr. 24. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

HORNS & HOOVES An eccentric combination of club, piano bar, cabaret, and circus. www.hornsandhooves.de. Danziger Str. 1. F1

GRETCHEN Funk, hip hop, drum & bass and electronica at this eclectic Kreuzberg club. Fri & Sat. www.gretchen-club.de. Obentrautstr. 19-21. E4

PURO SKY LOUNGE High-heeled crowds in a sleek, luxurious setting on the roof of the Europa Center. Wed–Sat from 8pm. www.puroberlin.de. Tauentzienstr. 9-12. C4

THE PEARL Luxurious club for the poshest crowds, Thu–Sat until 7am. www.thepearl-berlin.de. Fasanenstr. 81. G4

www.wheretraveler.com 69

ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE USEFUL INFORMATION Emergency numbers Police, call 110 free from any phone. Ambulance or fire, call 112 free from any phone. Medical Services, T: 030.310031. 24h Pharmacy: Hauptbahnhof Apotheke.

T: 030.20614190. S Hauptbahnhof. Berlin Police hotline, T: 030.46644664. Emergency dental services, T: 030.89004333. Poison hotline, T: 030.19240. National emergency number for on-call medical service, T: 116117. Berlin lost and found office, T: 030.902773101.

BERLIN AIRPORTS Berlin Tegel (TXL) Approx. 10 km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By bus: Buses 109 or X9 to Zoologischer Garten

Nobody knows the city better than your expert concierges. André Lindner, concierge at The Westin Grand, is here to help. www.lcdg.org What does it mean for you personally to carry the Golden Keys? It shows my guests that I am a recognized representative of my profession. What does your perfect day look like? Meeting friends for lunch, followed by a movie at the cinema and a visit to a bar in the evening. When you have visitors, where do you take them? The beautiful Gendarmenmarkt square. Your Berlin insider tips? The bars and restaurants on Weserstraße in Neukölln. One of my favorites is Beuster (Weserstr. 32). Describe Berlin in three words. Unfinished. Chaotic. Multicultural. What do you like doing after work? Meeting up with my friends at a local pub. Tell us about your hotel. It was the last luxury hotel opened in GDR times. At the time, it was the top-level hotel of the Interhotel chain, and has since become part of the Westin chain. Where is it best to relax in busy Berlin? One of my favorite places is the Biergarten at the Café am Neuen See. 70 W H E R E B E R L I N I D E C E M B E R 2017

Tips for a German specialty in the cold season? Haxe (roasted pork knuckle), also known as Eisbein. What makes Berlin different from other German cities? It’s incredibly international. Christmas shopping! Which store do you recommend for a special gift? Käthe Wohlfahrt on the Kurfürstendamm. Which Christmas market do you recommend? The popular market at Gendarmenmarkt. New Year's Eve: Where is best to welcome in the New Year? If you want to be amongst the crowds, then the Brandenburg Gate. Otherwise, high up – for example, Solar bar opposite the Anhalter Bahnhof train station. How do you recommend discovering Berlin? On foot, or aboard a boat. The perfect Berlin souvenir for you is… A Berlin bear figurine. Images: Berlin souvenirs; Gendarmenmarkt; Eisbein.

Berlin Schönefeld (SXF) Approx. 20 km (12 miles) southeast of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By regional train: Deutsche Bahn-operated

RE7 or RB14 to Ostbahnhof, Alexanderplatz, Hauptbahnhof, and Zoologischer Garten. RE9 to Hauptbahnhof via Südkreuz and Potsdamer Platz. Trains take approx. 45 mins. Tickets cost €3.40. By S-Bahn: Trains S9 and S45 to Hauptbahnhof, via Ostkreuz and Südkreuz respectively, run. every 20 mins, taking approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.40. By U-Bahn: Bus X7 and X11 to Rudow station connect with the U-Bahn system and run every 10 mins. Journey approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.40. By (night) bus: Arrivals between midnight and 4am Mon–Fri can take bus N7 to central areas. By taxi: Regular cabs take approx. 30 mins to city center, costing €30–€40. Left luggage: At the multi-storey car park P4. T: 030.60911150.

GETTING AROUND Public Transport www.bvg.de.

Fares Buy tickets from machines in the station, and be sure to validate them in the posts next to the ticket machines. Single tickets cost €2.80; or save by paying €9 for four single-trip tickets, which you can validate as you need. If traveling fewer than three train stations or six bus or tram stops, buy a short-trip ticket for €1.70. Day tickets cost €7 for unlimited travel until 3am the following day, or if you are traveling with others, a small group ticket will get up to five people unlimited travel for €19.90. For those staying longer, a pass valid for seven days may be a better value at €30.

ALL PHOTOS: © ISTOCK.

ASK THE CONCIERGE

run every 10 mins, taking approx. 20 mins. The TXL express bus to Alexanderplatz via Hauptbahnhof runs every 5–10 mins, taking. 25 mins. Single tickets cost €2.80 and can be bought on board. By U-Bahn: Bus 109 or X9 connects to the U-Bahn system at Jakob-Kaiser-Platz. Bus 128 links to the U-Bahn at Kurt-Schumacher-Platz and runs every 10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. Tickets cost €2.80. By taxi: Regular cabs take 10–20 mins to city center. Approx. €20–€35. Left luggage: Service center in Terminal A (ground floor). T: 030.41012315.

ESSENTIALS U-Bahn The underground system is extensive. Most lines run every five minutes (less frequently outside working hours), 4am–12:30am (replaced by night buses outside of these times). The entire U-Bahn and S-Bahn network runs all night on weekends.

STATIOHNE OF T TH MON

S-Bahn The above-ground system is faster than the U-Bahn but less frequent. Trains run every 10–20 mins. Timing and ticket rules apply as above.

Public Ferries With a regular BVG ticket ,you can hop on one of the six public ferry lines. Most beautiful is the trip from Wannsee to lakeside Kladow village; ferries leave every hour and take about 20 minutes.

Rail Travel Deutsche Bahn is the railway company that manages the Regional Bahn (RB) and Regional Express (RE) trains, operating around greater Berlin and Potsdam. The Intercity (IC) and European City (EC) trains travel further afield. www.bahn.de. Toll number: 0180.6996633. VBB is a public transportation authority created to reconnect Berlin to the surrounding Brandenburg area after German reunification.It offers services to metropolitan Berlin as well as to the rural communities in the countryside of Brandenburg. www.vbb.de

Rent A Bike Explore Berlin by bike. Deutsche Bahn Call-a-Bike service:

Sometimes affectionately referred to as the Party Tram or the Hipster Hopper, the M10 is one of the city’s busiest, most well-traveled tram lines. The yellow tram cars rumble along a wide, 8-km-long arc starting from Friedrichshain’s Warschauer Straße station, around which popular clubs like Watergate, Matrix, Rosis, and Suicide Circus are clustered. After making its way past the many bars of Friedrichshain, it cuts through Prenzlauer Berg before finally ending at the Nordbahnhof S-Bahn station. On Friday and Saturday nights, beer-swilling passengers on their way to and from clubs make for a lively ride.

Taxis

Tax-Free Shopping

Würfelfunk: T: 030.210101.

German law entitles all non-EU residents to a VAT tax refund. Look for stores displaying the Premier Tax Free sign and ask for a "tax-free form." When leaving the EU, goods and the completed form must be shown to a customs agent, from which a customs stamp must be obtained no more than three months after the date of purchase. Goods must be unused. Present the stamped form at the refund counter in the airport, or send it to Premier Tax Free as soon as you reach your destination. www.premiertaxfree.com.

MONEY SERVICES Banks and Foreign Exchange Exchange AG: Friedrichstr. 172. T: 030.20649296. Deutsche Bank: Kurfürstendamm 111. T: 030.8904370.

Lost Cards and Cheques American Express: T: 069.97972000 Diners Club: T: 07531.3633111 MasterCard: T: 0800.8191040 Visa: T: 0800.8118440

MAP LICENSE NUMBER: BVG 0050.16; © ISTOCK.

www.callabike.de.

The M10

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WHERE NOW | DUCKS!

DUCKS! BAND The Berlin-born and -based band Ducks! is Craig Schuftan and Lani Bagley, an Australian duo of musicmakers who mix everything from disco beats, trip hop musings, and aquatic fantasies into their dreamy and very danceable songs. Visit their website to give their most recent album, Nak Nak, a listen. www.ducksmakemusic.com

You’re both from Australia, so how did Ducks! get formed here in Berlin? Lani: We’re both from Sydney, but we had to move to Berlin to meet each other… Craig: People who move here from Sydney tend to do it for vaguely similar reasons. So I think it was statistically more likely that I’d meet someone here who was interested in broken robot noises, weird percussion, midnight collage sessions, and Basement Jaxx ca. 2001. L: I think I just wanted to move to a place where I’d always be the most colorful human. People in Berlin wear a lot of black, so if you wear a holographic leotard or a fur coat that looks like a giant prawn, you really stand out. This city sometimes seems to have a nearmythological status as a place for creative people. What has your experience been of Berlin as a place to make music? C: Myth is a good word to use here, not in the sense of something that isn’t true, more like a system that gives structure to people’s experiences, which after a while becomes so widely accepted that it might as well be true. When I hear people say, “Berlin is a place where I can be creative”, I think, is it really the place? Or is it something you believe to be true, which has given you permission to make art or music, or change the direction of your life in some other way? L: Chicken or egg, it does result in a city that 74 W H E R E B E R L I N I D E C E M B E R 2017

makes a good background for reinvention. Audiences hope for and expect a bit of experimentation, so there is the space to play around. There are a lot of musicians here who are ready to try something different, and also a good culture of sharing knowledge and resources.

our recent album Nak Nak, and I find being near a body of water calms the louder parts of my brain so I can get to the core of what I want to write about. But I also like the contrast of these quiet, calm places with noisy nightclubs, like Kater Blau, Berghain… Those are the places the beats come from.

How would you describe your music to somebody who hasn’t heard it before? L: I usually say our sound is between trip hop and disco, and then people give me this look, like, “That’s a weird combination”…

Imagine you had the entire day off to spend however you choose. What would your perfect Berlin day look like? Midnight: Wake up from disco nap. 2am: Drinks at our favorite bar, Walther in Wrangelstraße. 3am: Dancing at Kater Blau, Renate, Berghain, or Sameheads. 6am: Still at the club, discussing plans for future music. 10am: The flea market at Arena in Treptow, a sprawling exhibition of old furniture, audio junk, creepy toys, obscure metal parts, and anatomically incorrect paintings of horses and dogs. 12pm: Sleep. 4pm: Coffee, books, and cake at Nathanja und Heinrich (Weichselstr. 44). 6pm: A walk in the park, either Tiergarten, Treptower Park, or our new favorite, Gleisdreieck. 7pm: Dinner in Schöneberg, where Berlin’s best snacks are to be found.

C: Maybe it’s because they think trip hop is gloomy and paranoid and disco is shiny and happy – which it’s really not, some of the best disco songs are really sad, and disco can be paranoid too. L: And I think our music makes people feel all those things. It’s introspective and makes your butt move. What are some places in Berlin you find inspiring? L: Whenever I want to write lyrics or melodies, I sit by the water with headphones and a notepad, like the Landwehrkanal, Insel der Jugend, Schlachtensee. Water itself is a common theme in Ducks! lyrics – especially in

Clockwise from top left: Berghain; Ducks!; Insel der Jugend; Nathanja und Heinrich; album cover; flea market.

BERGHAIN - CC BY-NC 2.0 VIA FLICKR USER DER_SCHOLT. DUCKS! AND ALBUM COVER: COURTESY OF DUCKS!; INSEL DER JUGEND - © VISITBERLIN, PHOTO BY PHILIP KOSCHEL; NATHANJA UND HEINRICH: PHOTO BY HILDA HOY; FLEA MARKET: © ISTOCK.

My Berlin

Trak Wendisch: Tightrope Walker, 1984, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, Nat onalga erie, © VG B ld-Kunst, Bonn 2017, Photo: bpk/Nationa ga erie, SMB/Jörg P. Anders

Behind the Mask

Artists in the GDR October 29, 2017 to February 4, 2018

Museum Barberini Alter Markt, Humboldtstr. 5–6 14467 Potsdam T +49 331 236014-499 besucherservice@museum-barberini.com www.museum-barberini.com

Welcome to our Christmas World OUR OPENING HOURS IN DECEMBER 2017: December 1st - 23 rd 9:30 a.m. to 10:00 p.m. December 27 th 9:30 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. December 28 th - 30 th 9:30 a.m. to 10:00 p.m.

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OP E N ON S U NDAY December 3 rd & 17 th 1:00 p.m. to 8:00 p.m.

Galeria Kaufhof GmbH | Leonhard-Tietz-Str. 1 | 50676 Kรถln

BERLIN, ALEXANDERPLATZ P

Underground car park at Alexanderplatz (open 24 hours a day)