Where Magazine Berlin Feb 2018

BERLIN CITY GUIDE ®

WHERETRAVELER.COM

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

FEBRUARY 2018

Romantic Views Explore Berlin's love-inspiring corners PLUS: ART IN THE BUNKER MIDDLE EASTERN CUISINE

SHOPPING | ENTERTAINMENT | CULTURE | DINING | MAPS

BEST OF SHOPPING MORE THAN 300 SHOPS

PHOTO: KARL LAGERFELD

DELICIOUS FOOD HALL

MALL OF BERLIN

Berlin

02.18

CONTENTS

See more of Berlin at wheretraveler.com

The Plan Let’s get started

The Guide The best of Berlin

12

SHOPPING

21

7 Editor’s Note

XX

8 Hot Dates

The more affordable side to luxurious Ku'damm.

Highlights of the month's can't-miss events, from the Berlinale to Carnival and the cult classic Rocky Horror Show.

SIGHTSEEING

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XXam Gleisdreieck: an urban Park oasis with plenty to explore.

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Photographer Helmut Newton's rule of three.

XX DINING

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Mmm, we've got fingerlickin'-good Americanstyle BBQ right here.

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8

XX

58

19 Ask The Concierge

ENTERTAINMENT

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Berlin’s concierges share their city secrets.

The Komische Oper performs the Broadway classic Fiddler on the Roof.

58 My Berlin

NIGHTLIFE

52

Adriana Napolitano Berlin through the eyes of a set designer and photographer.

Your Berlin history lesson continues over a few drinks.

ESSENTIALS

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A new wave of Middle Eastern traditions, beyond the kebab and shawarma.

Explore Berlin's love-inspiring corners

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16 Chickpeas and Spice

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BY SOLVEIG STEINHARDT

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Romantic Views

Don't wait until Valentine's Day to discover these loveinspiring corners of the city.

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12 Love Is All You Need

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Sometimes pure driving pleasure starts as soon as you turn the key. Visit www.porsche.de/drive to book your dream Porsche from the current model range or stop by our Porsche Drive location in Berlin, Franklinstrasse 23. Want to continue your journey? Porsche Drive is also available in Stuttgart, in Sylt or in Zug (Switzerland).

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6 W H E R E B E R L I N I F E B R UA R Y 20 18

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Sarah Bethke

WELCOME TO BERLIN

Tropical Berlin Around this time of year, my thoughts start traveling to distant lands, usually warm, tropical paradise islands. February is the coldest month of the year, and although the end of winter is finally near(er), my body and mind are just craving the blue skies, the yellow rays of sun, and the warmth on my skin. What to do?

My first solution is usually to visit a spa.

My favorite, Therme Bad Saarow, is a 30-minute drive east of Berlin's center.

This large resort features a large indoor pool with natural thermal spring water at 36°C as well as a fun outdoor area with various whirlpools and water jetties, as well as a flotation pool and sauna.

If it's the actual palm trees and waterfalls you're missing, you should head to Tropical Islands instead (www.tropical-islands.de). Housed in a former hangar, this is an indoor, tropical-themed water park with pools, jungles, water slides, and a general happy vibe.

But you don't have to rent a car to add a bit of tropics to your day. CafĂŠ Mori (Wiener Str. 13) serves simple and healthy Brazilian food, while indoor beach bar Slumberland (Goltzstr. 24) competes with a trip to Jamaica with sand on the floor and reggae music. And if your imagination could use the help of a little alcohol, head to Bad Fish (Stargarder Str. 14) for the city's best frozen margaritas.

SOLVEIG STEINHARDT EDITOR, WHERE BERLIN

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HOT

DATES

TANZOLYMP FROM THURSDAY

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Considered to be the Olympics for dancers, each year the Tanzolymp brings to town about 100 young talents from around the world for workshops, seminars, and competition. Under the motto “dance as a global language,” they share their love for dancing and battle it out for scholarships at leading international ballet schools. You can catch the best performances at the Final Gala at Theater des Westens on 19 February. www.tanzolymp.com

8 W H E R E B E R L I N I F E B R UA R Y 20 18

CLÄRCHENS BALLHAUS: JANTENNE SPRINGBORN VIA FLICKR/CREATIVE COMMONS; USKA WENDLAND VIA FLICKR/ CREATIVE COMMONS, DOUGLAS HOYT VIA FLICKR/CREATIVE COMMONS, ©VISIT BERLIN, PHOTO BY GÜNTER STEFFEN; PRATER: COURTESY OF OH BERLIN.

February in Berlin is filled with fabulous events, from Carnival parades to international dance and film festivals.

WHERE NOW | FEBRUARY

13 CARNIVAL TUESDAY

Don a fools' costume and shout Helau! The 40 days of Lent leading up to Easter marks a time of feasting for cultures around the globe.

Although Berlin is far removed from the Rhineland, the German heart of Fasching (Carnival) tradition, Berliners can still soak in the atmosphere and good cheer at Rhenish pubs such as Ständige Vertretung Berlin, Gaffel Haus, and Uh-Länder.

25 CHILI & CHOCOLATE UNTIL SUNDAY

© ISTOCK.

Your last chance to get a taste of Mexico! This special exhibition at the Botanical Museum and Garden presents important Mexican crops dating back to the Mayans and Aztecs. With around 30,000 plant species, this Latin American country is a biodiversity hotspot and a sensation for the senses. Chili and chocolate taste testing included. www.bgbm.org

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BERLINALE FROM THURSDAY

Roll out the red carpet! This is one of the city’s most glamorous events of the year, attracting the elite of the film industry and grand audiences of film enthusiasts. About 400 movies from around the globe, the majority of which are premieres, are screened over the two weeks, which also include workshops, panel discussions, and exclusive parties. This year, the jury of the festival will be presided over by Tom Tykwer, director of Run Lola Run. www.berlinale.de

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WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

FEBRUARY

ROCKY HORROR SHOW UNTIL SATURDAY

Let’s do the time warp again! More than 20 million people have seen this cult classic since its world premiere at London’s Royal Court Theater in 1973. The offbeat story of Brad and Janet, an innocent couple lost in a mysterious castle and caught up in a mad series of events together with the diabolical Dr Frank ‘n’ Furter has defined an entire generation. Richard O’Brien’s acclaimed production playing at the Admiralspalast takes the show back to its roots: burlesque and glam rock. Songs and dialogue are in English with some narration in German. www.mehr.de

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BERLIN INDEPENDENT FILM FESTIVAL FROM TUESDAY

Popcorn anyone? Unlike the glitzy Berlinale, this weeklong film festival champions low-budget productions across Europe. Expect plenty of networking opportunities for up-and-coming directors and indie screenings covering such categories as short documentary, LGBT film, and animation. All films are screened at the Babylon cinema in Mitte, either in English or with English subtitles. www.berlinfest.com

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TRANSMEDIALE UNTIL SUNDAY

Rethink your everyday relationship to technology. This five-day-long festival for media art and digital culture includes an exhibition, film and video screenings, live performances, and workshops covering such topics as hacktivism, social networking, and technological development politics, all taking place at Haus der Kulturen der Welt. www.transmediale.de 10 W H E R E B E R L I N I F E B R UA R Y 2018

Join the feast at the Street Food Thursday event at Kreuzberg's Markthalle Neun.

Watch the pros sink ball after ball at the German Snooker Masters at Tempodrom.

Syrian music legend Omar Souleyman brings down the house at Funkhaus tonight.

Bizet's famed opera Carmen will get your heart racing at Deutsche Oper.

See the Staatsballett dance gripping modern choreography in Duato/Schechter.

Let's do the time warp again! See the cult fave Rocky Horror Show at Admiralspalast.

Hear the famed Staatskapelle string quartet playing Schubert at Pierre Boulez Saal.

Welsh alt-rockers Stereophonics play their newest album at Astra Kulturhaus tonight.

Mozart's light-hearted opera Così Fan Tutte takes the stage at Deutsche Oper.

To ecape to the tropics, go to the Botanical Garden's "Tropical Nights" concert series.

Take the little ones to Komische Oper's children's opera, Snow White & the 7 Dwarves.

Catch a movie at CineStar Potsdamer Platz, one of few theaters to play movies in English.

Phantom of the Opera, one of the most successful musicals ever, is at Tempodrom.

Pamper your Valentine with a sauna & massage at Balinese-style spa Vabali.

Walk on the wild side at Berlin's famed zoo, located at the edge of Tiergarten park.

See Mozart's Don Giovanni, an all-time operatic favorite, at Komische Oper.

Lo-fi indiepop band Belle and Sebastian is at Admiralspalast to play their new album.

Enjoy the music of composer Andrew Lloyd Webber at tonight's Admiralspalast gala.

Take a trip to Dahlem's Botanical Garden to warm up in greenhouses of tropical plants.

Warm up with coffee and Apfelstrudel at the historic, elegant Café Einstein Stammhaus.

The whole family will love the glittering Holiday on Ice show at Tempodrom.

Enjoy an afternoon Espresso Concert at the Konzerthaus – musical "caffeine for the ears."

Kick off the weekend at Hopfenreich, Kreuzberg's best craft beer bar.

Try the creative drinks at Redwood, a chill Mitte spot for cocktail connoisseurs.

Shed a few tears at the Deutsche Oper performance of Puccini's Madama Butterfly.

They're back! Punk rockers At the Drive-In play their new album Columbiahalle.

Fan of The Killers? Don't miss their concert tonight at Mercedes-Benz Arena.

Picasso fans won't want to miss his masterful paintings at Museum Berggruen.

See listings for addresses and more info.

TANZOLYMP: PHOTO COURTESY OF TANZOLYMP; CARNIVAL AND MOVIE SLATE: © ISTOCK; BERLINALE, PHOTO BY ALI GHANDTSCHI © BERLINALE 2016; CHILI SCHOKOLADE: COURTESY OF BOTANISCHER GARTEN UND MUSEUM; ROCKY HORROR SHOW: PHOTO BY JENS HAUER; TRANSMEDIALE: COURTESY OF HAUS DER KULTUREN DER WELT.

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WELCOME TO THE BERLINALE

COURTESY OF WINTERGARTEN VARIETE.

BERLINALE 15——25 FEB 2018

WHERE NOW | LOVE IS EVERYWHERE

LOVE IS ALL YOU NEED Bet you never thought of Berlin as a romantic city: too monumental, grand, eclectic, industrial. Yet if you know where to go, you will find this city is packed with love-inspiring corners and fascinating views.

Whether you’re single or committed, married with children or platonically enamored, you don’t have to wait until Valentine’s Day to celebrate the beauty of love – just follow Solveig Steinhardt’s tips for the city’s most romantic spots.

BERLIN VIEW, BERLINER DOM UNDER THE STARS: ©ISTOCK; FLOTATION POOL: COURTESY OF TRANXX. NEXT PAGE: BARBER: © ISTOCK; MADI: COURTESY OF MADI; PERFUME: COURTESY OF FRAU TONIS PARFUM

Cultured Love What’s more romantic than a stroll amid postcard-worthy waterside views and gorgeous museum buildings? Berlin’s Museum Island, which houses the city’s most important museum collections, is the perfect place if you want to combine sweet romance with a bit of culture. The Gates of Ishtar inside the Pergamon Museum, the bust of Nefertiti in the Neues Museum, and Canova’s Dancer at the Bode Museum (www.smb.museum) might all bring on an attack of Stendhal syndrome, but there’s nothing better than experiencing this dizziness with someone you love.

Afterwards, discuss all the marvelous art over lunch at Café am Neuen See (Lichtensteinallee 2). Nestled in a pretty corner of the Tiergarten park, the restaurant serves warm and hearty German meals by a crackling fire.

If you like history, delve into some moving Cold War stories at the Tränenpalast, an annex of the Friedrichstraße station that served as a border crossing between East and West Berlin. German for “Palace of Tears,” the Tränenpalast is where East Germans said goodbye to their visitors from West Berlin. If this leaves you feeling sentimental, walk to the nearby Weidendammer Brücke.

This bridge is not only one of the few Spree River crossings that was not destroyed during the Battle of Berlin in 1945, it is also where today’s lovers promise each other eternal commitment in the form of a lovelock. Buy a padlock from the Rossmann drugstore inside the S-Bahn station, write your initials on it, draw a heart, and lock your sweet feelings to the railing. Don’t forget to throw the keys in the river before you go!

On the other side of Friedrichstraße is Dussmann, Berlin’s biggest bookstore, where you two can sit down and spend some time reading some romantic poetry. Try Shakespeare’s Shall I compare thee to a summer day or, to stick with the German theme, Heinrich Heine’s Im wunderschönen Monat Mai.

Romantic Adventures Some things are just better when done with the person you love. One of them is the ultra-relaxing luxury of thermal saltwater flotation. Tranxx in Schöneberg (www.tranxx.de, Akazienstr. 7) offers special treatments for two, including floating at 35°C for an hour and various massages, all accompanied by soft music and chromotherapy to stimulate your mind’s most hidden areas and take you to another dimension. If it’s your creativity you would like to stimulate instead, why not take a cooking class together? Bringing home new recipes is a great investment for the future of the relationship, and Goldhahn and Sampson (www.goldhahnundsampson.de, Wilmersdorfer Str. 102) offers classes in English on a variety of culinary topics, from pastas to macarons to desserts to wine pairings. w w w.wheretraveler.com 13

WHERE NOW | VALENTINE’S DAY

Alone But Not Lonely Being single is a gift, too, and you should enjoy it while it lasts. One of the best things about it is the complete freedom to pick your own look. Single men, why not experiment with the different beard styles you’ve never dared to try? Salon Wheadon (www.wheadon. de, Steinstr. 17) is a favorite among Berlin hipsters for vintage to trendy beard trims, and also offers manicures and eyebrow grooming.

Girls who wish to stay away from men for a while can visit the Hamam im Schokoladenfabrik (www.hamamberlin.de, Mariannenstr. 6), a women-only Turkish steam bath that promises to polish your body and cleanse your soul through the moist and

warm atmospheres and scents of Anatolian hamams. For more Arabian Nights atmosphere, get tickets to Cleopatra’s Oasis at the Madi tent (p. 50) on 14 Feb. This show about the mysteries of ancient Egypt is designed just for women and includes a theater performance, massages, and food. But if you are already a step further down the line and are ready to get back in the game of love, don’t forget that a full stomach and a bit of alcohol are prerequisites for a successful liaison. An ideal setting for interesting encounters is aperitivo hour at Bar Milano (Brunnenstr. 11), whose buffet counter is the perfect spot to start a conversation with a stranger, possibly about food.

Can't Buy Me Love Things can’t buy someone’s love, but the right gifts can express feelings the way words can’t. While rings are symbolic of commitment, a pair of earrings or a necklace show appreciation for your loved one’s inner and outer beauty. For jewelry in pure Berlin style, head to the Sabrina Dehoff boutique in Mitte (www.sabrinadehoff.com, Auguststr. 26A), carrying the Berlin-born designer’s playful, modern pieces. Prefer a more traditional look? Juwelier Leicht inside the Hotel Adlon (Unter den Linden, www. leicht-jewellery.com) sells everything from classic engagement rings to diamond necklaces from some of the world’s best jewelry brands.

For something more personal, why not get your better half a personalized gift? At Montblanc Boutique (www.montblanc.com, Friedrichstr. 80) you can order a leather wallet, a briefcase, a belt, or a pen, all with the inscription of your loved one’s name, while at Frau Tonis Parfum (www.frau-tonisparfum.de, Zimmerstr. 13) you can Jewelier create your own customized scent in Leicht the perfume workshop with the help of expert perfumers.

12 W H E R E BLO 14 E RNLDI N ON I FI EJBARNUA UARRYY2018 2016

Chickpeas & (and everyt hing nice)

F

ood transcends borders. There’s no better proof of this than the lush, colorful, and above all delicious cuisines enjoyed across the Middle East. This broad, diverse, and difficult-to-define region reaches from Egypt to Iran, across the Arabian Peninsula and the Levant, spanning continents and encompassing dozens of ethnic groups. What unites the region, however, are herb- and spice-rich culinary traditions with many shared influences and histories.

Thanks to a number of chefs and restaurateurs, the Berlin dining scene is currently in the midst of a Middle Eastern revival of sorts, a renewed appreciation for the many gifts the region’s cuisine has to offer. This new wave goes several steps beyond the cheap kebab shops and shawarma joints that have long dominated how Berliners think of Middle Eastern food.

Instead, local chefs are elevating the cuisine and taking some creative liberties, using the traditional flavors, spices, and methods as their palette to create something exciting.

Without doubt the most high-caliber example is Charlottenburg’s Glass restaurant (Uhlandstr. 195, www.glassberlin.com), the creation of Jerusalem native Gal Ben Moshe.

After training and working in top kitchens around the world, he chose Berlin as the home of his own fine-dining restaurant. Last year, he was moved to return to his culinary roots and adjust the concept at Glass, which now focuses on modern Arabic cuisine.

The result is fantastic five-, seven-, or ninecourse tasting menus that elevate Arabic staples like couscous, harissa, and sumac to new fine-dining heights. Buttery-soft mutton tartare is accented with artichokes and tahini, for example, and rare lamb filet is served in a puddle of fragrant cherry-rose petal sauce. Ben Moshe has a particular flair for desserts, such as yogurt mousse on pistachio crust with a tangy-sweet sorbet made from preserved lemons, so much greater than the sum of its parts. Even the wine list is an impressive testimony to the diversity of the region, including fine wines from Lebanon

16 W H EERREE LO BER NLDI N ON I FI EJBARNUA UARRY Y2018 2013

and Israel. A memorable meal that is sure to expand your culinary horizons.

In contrast to the fine-dining vibes at Glass, nearby Koshary Lux (Grolmanstr. 27, www.klx-kosharylux.com) is a laid-back spot for casual feasts, drawing from a number of cuisines across North Africa and the Middle East. The mainstay of the menu is koshary, a tasty Egyptian street food of rice, lentils, and noodles that are topped with caramelized onions, chickpeas, and tomato sauce. There are also Tunisian vegetable fritters, Lebanese meatballs, and an array of tasty dips like Yemeni zhoug (green chilies, tomato, cilantro) to eat with warm pita.

The menu also goes “freestyle” with fusion options, like the salad bowl topped with spiced chickpeas and labneh balls. Look out for the Koshary Lux stand at the weekly Street Food Thursday event in Kreuzberg’s Markthalle Neun.

Hummus, a beloved staple in many Middle Eastern countries, is just one of the tasty things on the menu at Gordon (Allerstr. 11, www.gordon-berlin.com). This snug, hip Neukölln locale first started out as a daytime café with a side trade in records – its owners are music lovers who founded their own label in Israel. Late last year, however, they decided to give the food greater focus and have expanded to serve both lunch and dinner every day of the week. The “modern Middle Eastern” menu draws upon influences from Israel and the Levant, the Mediterranean and the Maghreb. Like chraime, a North African Jewish dish of sea bass in spicy tomato sauce, or a twist on crispy arancini balls, made with couscous instead of rice. And there’s still the famous Gordon hummus, topped with roasted eggplant, meatballs, or simply naked, with homemade, freshly baked pita bread for dipping.

OS'Kitchen (Anzengruberstr. 20, www. oskitchen.de) is located in the lively heart of Neukölln’s Arabic neighborhood, where locals have long had plenty of quick, cheap falafel and kebab shops to choose from.

OS’Kitchen sets itself far apart with hip décor and a more modern approach. Manakish flatbread, for example, is rebranded as

“oriental pizza” and baked with a variety of unconventional toppings; there are fusionstyle salads, sandwiches, and even an OS’ take on the burger. As for the more classic items, like baba ganoush, kafta kebabs, and colorful platters heaped with falafel, fried vegetables, tabbouleh, and a variety of dips – they’re all made fresh from high-quality ingredients: A broad step above the standard hole-in-the-wall takeout joint, which your tastebuds are sure to appreciate.

PHOTO BY JULIA SCHMIDT

Hilda Hoy explored the new wave of restaurants experimenting with the culinary traditions of the Middle East.

spice

WHERE NOW | MIDDLE EASTERN FOOD

A luscious yogurt, pistachio, and preserved lemon dessert at Glass.

Persian Feasts

A Rocket & Basil dinner event.

Rocket & Basil is Xenia and Sophie von Oswald, a pair of German-Iranian sisters who sink their passion for food into their catering business and regular pop-up food events exploring the wonders of Persian cuisine. Visit their website for details on this month's upcoming Persian feast, as well as for their delectable recipes for things like saffron-scented jeweled rice and sumac roast chicken. www.rocketandbasil.com

A delectable dish of shakshuka at Gordon.

w w w.wheretraveler.com 17

KOSHARY LUX: © PHILIPP KUELKER. GORDON: © ANNE FREITAG. GLASS: COURTESY OF GLAS, © BEN FUCHS. ROCKET & BASIL: © CRISTINA SALGAR SALEH.

This photo and right: Koshary Lux.

WHERE NOW | ART BUNKERS

BUNKERS

Annabelle Mallia is intrigued by the spaces that saved millions of lives.

A

s WWII was encroaching on Berlin, the Third Reich began constructing more than 100 civilian air raid shelters and flak towers throughout the city. When the war ended and control shifted to the Allied powers and the USSR, many of the bunkers were destroyed as rebuilding of the city began. The most notorious is Hitler’s bunker, part of a large network of underground bunkers built to protect the Nazi elite, now just marked with a small plaque in a parking lot near the Holocaust Memorial. Only about 50 of the bunkers still remain, some having found new purpose.

Contrary to what you might think, many of the bunkers in Berlin were large concrete blocks built upwards rather than underground constructions. Above-ground bunkers were much cheaper and faster to build and could withstand explosive vibrations better than underground ones, so long as the walls were thick enough.

18 W H EERREE LO BER NLDI N ON I FI EJBARNUA UARRY Y2018 2013

Thriving as a chic venue for contemporary art is a bunker in Mitte, where you can now find the private Boros Collection (www. sammlung-boros.de) with a glass-walled penthouse on top where the Boros family lives. This five-storey-high bunker has walls up to three meters thick and was built to shelter up to 3000 workers pouring out of the nearby train station. Since the war, the bunker has taken on many personas, including a Russian prison, tropical fruit storage (gaining its nickname of "banana bunker"), and hardcore techno club. Today the rooms display works from international artists such as Martin Boyce and Andreas Eriksson and make for a unique art experience, open to the public via guided tours only.

The equally impressive Feuerle Collection (www.thefeuerlecollection.org), another private art museum, is located in a former telecommunications bunker in Kreuzberg, and juxtaposes contemporary art with

Chinese antiques and Asian sculpture.

Known as the Hitchhikers' Bunker, the nuclear bunker at Anhalter Bahnhof was built mainly to protect travelers.

Today it is featured at the Berlin Story Museum (www.berlinstory.de), where you can recap 800 years of Berlin’s history in just one hour. And if climbing a bunker is on your must do list, visit Der Kegel (www.derkegel. de). This former WWII bunker turned climbing wall can be found amongst a swimming pool bar and music venues at RAW Gelände, a train repair station converted into a thriving, alternative cultural project in Friedrichshain.

However, if you’re more interested in exploring an untouched bunker, book a tour with Berliner Unterwelten (www.berlinerunterwelten.de), an organization dedicated to researching and preserving Berlin’s underground. Explore a modern Cold War bunker or the Gesundbrunnen Bunker and Flak Tower, which give a glimpse of what life was like for Berliners during heavy air raids.

FEUERLE COLLECTION: © DEF IMAGE; BOROS COLLECTION: COURTESY OF BOROS COLLECTION.

Image above: the Boros Collection. This photo: the Feuerle collection.

WHERE NOW | CONCIERGE

Ask the

CONCIERGE

Nobody knows the city better than your expert concierges.

Linda Urban, concierge at the Waldorf Astoria Berlin, shares her shopping and fashion secrets. www.lcdg.org

Do you think Berlin has grown into a shopping capital in the last few years?

Yes, definitely. Compared to fashion metropolises like Paris or New York, Berlin is still a bit behind, but it has without a doubt developed into the most important city for fashion and design in Germany. Besides the mainstream and high-end labels, you’ll also find a range of charming boutiques and local designers tucked away in the city's neighborhoods, providing a special local shopping experience.

Berlin has many "centers" for shopping enthusiasts. What's your favorite?

I mostly enjoy strolling around Hackescher Markt and its hidden shopping streets, like Mulackstraße or Münzstraße. I also love the concept at Bikini Berlin: The little “box shops” on the ground floor change regularly, so you can always find something different and discover new labels.

KADEWE AND JEWELRY: © ISTOCK; CAKE COUNTER: COURTESY OF KADEWE.

Do you think there is such thing as a "Berlin style" in clothing?

Berlin is such an eclectic and fast-moving city, and that also applies to the fashion you find here. It is difficult to define the “Berlin Style” – it is something between cool and understated and totally fancy.

Do you have any favorite Berlin designers?

I really like Sabrina Dehoff’s jewelry (she has

a store in Auguststraße) and LALA Berlin fashion (Alte Schönhauser Str. 3).

Where do you go for gourmet shopping?

The best address for gourmet shopping is definitely the 6th floor of KaDeWe. And what about homewares and interior design?

One of the best addresses is Kantstraße in Charlottenburg, with the renowned Stilwerk and small home décor and design stores.

Once a year, there's an event called Designmeile taking place between Zoologischer Garten and Savignyplatz. I also like MADE, an online shopping platform for furniture and design. Their showroom at Friedrichstr. 224 is definitely worth a visit.

It's Valentine's Day soon: A present you would like to receive or give to someone special?

Jewelry is always a good idea and something special.

YOUR CONCIERGE IS HAPPY TO HELP!

Talk to your concierge if you need assistance with restaurant reservations, concert tickets, arranging spa services, booking transportation, or simply to ask for recommendations.

From top to bottom: Linda Urban; the cake counter at KaDeWe; jewelry; KaDeWe.

w w w.wheretraveler.com 19

THE GUIDE | SHOPPING

Ku’damm On A Shoestring

© ISTOCK PHOTO; UNIQLO COURTESY OF UNIQLO

Annabelle Mallia’s aim is to shop in luxury without maxing out her credit card.

Much like Paris’s Champs-Élysées or London’s Oxford Street, Kurfürstendamm is Berlin's number-one address for luxury shopping. The western Charlottenburg section of the Ku'damm is a haven for premium boutiques and upmarket labels such as Valentino, Chanel, and Cartier.

However, the eastern end of this fivekilometer-long boulevard and its Tauentzienstraße extension are much more versatile with something for all budgets.

British fashion label Superdry (no. 19-24, www.superdry.com) opened its doors just over a year ago inside the venue of the historic Café Kranzler. Made famous by their original collection of T-shirts worn by football icon David Beckham, they now focus on a whole range of affordable clothing for men and women, fusing vintage Americana and Japanese-inspired graphics with cool British style. This store is their largest branch yet and utilizes advanced technology such as an

interactive “magic mirror”, which lets you take photos to share your new style with friends.

Originally a chain of roadside stores in suburban Japan, the Uniqlo brand (Tauentzienstr. 7B, www.uniqlo.com) quickly became an Asian sensation and has now successfully expanded to trendy urban hubs around the globe. Their whole concept is based on providing quality essentials for the whole family in a range of block colors and clean designs, and their unique business model means they are able to keep costs down and adapt quickly to changing trends.

H&M (no. 20-24 & 237, www.hm.com) is a

staple in any German’s closet. This Swedish label’s ability to strike the perfect balance between cheap and stylish leaves shoppers feeling highly satisfied. From wearable basics to glitzy pieces for your next night out, it’s almost impossible to leave without buying something. Then there is Spanish label Zara (no. 236, www. zara.com), considered bread-and-butter fashion for your average trendy European. And not too far away is UK off-price retailer TK Maxx (Wilmersdorfer Str. 105, www.tkmaxx.com). Don’t be deceived by their no-frills store interior – they are full of designer gems and big labels in clothing and home décor. www.wheretraveler.com 21

SHOPPING

THE

where GUIDELINES

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Every effort is made to provide accurate and updated information.

However, information may be subject to last minute changes, so it is always advisable to call ahead.

INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS T: Telephone number S: S-Bahn, Above-ground train system U: U-Bahn, Underground train system MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 56-57.

OPENING HOURS Opening hours may vary, so it’s best to call ahead.

Shops are open Mon–Sat only, and Sunday shopping is only possible on certain Sundays of the year. This month, this will be on 18 February.

Groceries can be bought on Sundays at major train stations (Hauptbahnhof, Friedrichstraße, at Ullrich at Zoologischer Garten, or Ostbahnhof ). Shopping malls are open 10am–8pm and smaller stores only until 6pm.

TOURIST INFORMATION VisitBerlin is the official source of information on the city. Call T: 030.25002333 for specific Berlin information, or go to www.visitberlin.de for details on all information centers, events, and sights.

Tourist Info Points: Brandenburg Gate – Pariser Platz, daily 9:30am–6pm (until 7pm in summer).

Hauptbahnhof – Europaplatz 1, Level 0, daily 8am–9pm.

TV Tower Alexanderplatz – Panoramastr. 1a, daily 10am–4pm.

DEPARTMENT STORES & MALLS Alexa Hardcore shoppers love this mall for its sheer size, with over 180 stores spread over five levels. Highstreet retailers are well represented, and a large food court obliges when hunger overwhelms your desire to shop. www.alexacentre.com.

Grunerstr. 20. T: 030.269340121.

S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

BIKINI BERLIN BIKINI BERLIN combines shopping with a fun and relaxing experience. The historical building complex in Berlin's west end makes for interesting strolls, also offering beautiful views of the Berlin zoo and its animals, which can be admired both from indoors as well as from the rooftop terrace.

But the main attraction is the curated selection of shops, which include individual pop-up boxes frequently showcasing new designers, popular brands, and many design stores. www.bikiniberlin. de. Budapester Str. 38-50. T: 030.55496455.

S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Designer Outlet Berlin Your favorite designer brands with discounts up to 70 percent, at just 30 minutes from the city center. Also features cafes and restaurants, a children’s play area, free parking and more that 100 international brands. Shuttle bus from center on Fri-Sat. Bring a copy of Where Berlin to the office and get a further 10% off. Mon–Thu 10am–7pm, Fri and Sat to 8pm. www.designeroutletberlin.com.

Alter Spandauer Weg 1. T: 033234.9040.

Take the regional train to Elstal. Off Map

Europa Center This shopping mall on the Ku’damm offers a range of goods from over 70 shops. Check out the 22 W H E R E B E R L I N I F E B R UA R Y 2018

ingenious water clock designed by Bernard Gitton in 1982. www.europa-center-berlin.de.

Tauentzienstr. 9–12. T: 030.26497940.

U Kurfürstendamm, U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Galeria Kaufhof The former East German department store, renovated in 2006, showcases more than 600 exclusive brands and an exquisite gourmet section covering 35,000sq.m (377,000sq.ft) of space. www.galeria-kaufhof.de. Alexanderplatz 9.

T: 030.247430.

S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Galeries Lafayette The Berlin branch of the exclusive Parisian department store is developed around an extraordinary glass cone. The three circular floors rise up around this centerpiece, packed with perfumes, clothing, and accessories. The food counter offers a wide range of French specialties and there’s a corner selling teas from the famed French tea house Mariage Frères. www.galerieslafayette.de. Friedrichstr. 76–78.

T: 030.209480.

U Französische Straße. E3

Kaufhaus des Westens (KaDeWe) The biggest and oldest department store in Germany sells only products of the highest quality.

If you're short on time, the legendary gourmet food hall on the sixth floor is not to be missed. www.kadewe.de. Tauentzienstr. 21–24.

T: 030.21210. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Mall of Berlin 270 shops, 270 apartments, gyms, and pedestrian areas define the new Mall of Berlin on Leipziger Platz, a world of shopping opportunities a stone’s throw from the city’s main tourist attractions. www.mallofberlin.de.Leipziger Platz 12.

U Mohrenstraße. E3

Potsdamer Platz Arkaden This large shopping center offers more than 120 shops over three floors, stocking everything from clothes and accessories to electronics and groceries. Its restaurants and bars, both inside and in surrounding streets, also make it a very popular meeting spot. www.potsdamer-platz-arkaden.de.

Alte Potsdamer Str. 7.

T: 030.2559270. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

FASHION Annette Görtz Inspired by geometric lines and the use of "non-colors" such as black, beige, white, and gray, fashion brand Annette Görtz combines comfort with understated elegance. www. annettegoertz.com.

T: 030 20074613.

Markgrafenstr. 42.

U Stadtmitte. E3

sizes look and feel good. From everyday style to business casual to something elegant for a night out, you’ll find plenty to add to your wardrobe. Second store at Schloßstr. 28. www.basler-fashion.com.

Kurfürstendamm 220. T: 030.88472949.

U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Beatrice von Tresckow Sumptuous, elegant, somewhat extravagant.

Beatrice Von Tresckow women's clothes are lively and colorful, an eye-catching addition to any wardrobe. www.beatricevontresckow.com, Leibnizstr. 60. T: 030 308318. U Adenauer Platz. C4

Boggi Milano Italian elegance for men. Specializes in highquality suits that are formal while also remaining comfortable, and also carries a sport casual collection. www.boggi.com. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

By Anne

By Anne offers designer fashion from sought-after European labels such as cool Danish brand NÜ, Beate Heymann Street Couture, playful Spanish label Uno Piu Uno, and bags from By Lou Lou, together with other accessories to complement your new outfit. Unique art pieces are also on sale to help you express your individuality in the home or garden. www.byanne.de. Rosenthaler Str. 31.

T: 030.28879436. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Cotélac The French just have that certain je ne sais quoi when it comes to style. Laid-back, breezy, comfortable, and nonetheless elegant, the Cotélac collections capture that quintessential French style in clothing and accessories for both women and men. Brand hallmarks are fine fabrics, subtle details and unique prints created with special dye and fabric techniques. Mulackstr. 6.

T: 030 53604074. www.cotelac.fr.

U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Ellen Eisemann Feminine and chic dresses , skirts, tops made for the Audrey Hepburns of today. Simple, geometric cuts and eye-catching colors and prints combine a timeless style with a glamorous vintage look. www.elleneisemann.com.

Monumentenstraße 33-34. 030 78898595. S Yorckstraße. D5

designer depot This boutique in Mitte offers selected designer fashion, shoes, and accessories for men and ladies at up to 50 percent off. There are more than 30 international labels such as Calvin Klein, Iceberg, Roberto Cavalli, and Valentino. www.designerdepot.net.

Rochstr. 2.

T: 030.28046700.

U Weinmeisterstr.

F2

Basler Founded in Berlin in 1936 and now sold around the globe, Basler stands for femininity and versatility, aiming to make women of all ages and

Das DDR Handbuch (Taschen, see next page) portrays life in the GDR through more than 800 pages of images, including vintage advertising, design, and photographs. €30.

SHOPPING Finn's Mode This tiny store near Savignyplatz stocks a large variety of fashion items with a personality, for women "who know who they are and like to dress well." Brands include Piazza Sempione, Zenggi, Cambio, Le Tricot Perugia, and more, and the selection ranges from dresses and skirts to accessories like shoes and bags. www.finns-mode.de. Bleibtreustr. 47.

T: 030.8832202. U Uhlandstraße B4

Ganni Berlin Founded in Copenhagen, Ganni carries easy-towear pieces for women with an attitude who like to mix things up. Elegant and effortless clothing, lingerie, accessories, and shoes. www.ganni.com.

Alte Schönhauser Str. 6. T: 030.27590966.

U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Gobi Cashmere The first European store of this luxury Mongolian cashmere manufacturer opened in December 2016 to bring organic, high-quality cashmere fashion and fabrics produced in Asia to the highest standards. www.shop-gobi.com/en/. Knesebeckstr.

30. T: 030.22466513. U Uhlandstraße. E2

Goldsteg Designer Outlet This outlet store carries one-of-a-kind fashion pieces, exciting accessories and high-quality Italian leather bags by a wide range of designers.

Michael Sontag

www.goldsteg.de. Carmerstr. 8.

T: 030 51307933. S Savignyplatz. B4

Marc Cain A worldwide premium brand for women’s fashion with its own production facility in Germany.

Marc Cain effortlessly combines aesthetics and innovation in design and materials, making a declaration of love to women. www.marc-cain.com. Friedrichstr. 61.

See website for more locations.

T: 030.20077219. U Stadtmitte. E3

MaxMara One of the oldest and most prestigious Italian fashion houses, known for its quality craftsmanship and ready-to-wear clothing. www.maxmara.com. Friedrichstr.

184, T: 030.20074945. U Stadtmitte.

E3; Kurfürstendamm 178.

T: 030.8852545. U Adenauerplatz. B4

The Berlin designer sets himself apart with his masterful draping techniques, creating simple yet flattering feminine silhouettes out of flowing fabrics with equal measures of elegance and sex appeal. www.michaelsontag.com.

Muskauer Str. 41. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

Onepiece

A popular Norwegian brand, best known for its jumpsuits, beloved by celebrities.

Comfortable pants, hoodies, shirts, and dresses complete the offering. www.onepiece.com. Litfaßplatz 1.

The quiet Suarezstraße T: 030.27580644. S Hackescher in Charlottenburg Markt. F3

is the place to go for antiques.

Michael Kors The New York-based designer Michael Kors is known for his ready-to-wear fashion and luxury accessories – bags, watches, jewelry, shoes, and other award-winning designs. www.michaelkors. com. Kurfürstendamm 219. T: 030.81825760.

U Uhlandstraße. C4; Rosenthaler Str. 37.

T: 030.24088690. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Patrick Hellmannt

Among the most successful luxury brands in the fashion world, Patrick Hellmann stands for timelessness, elegant designs, quality materials, and extravagant details. There are also clothes by Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior, and Dolce & Gabbana. www.patrick-hellmann.com.

Kurfürstendamm 190–192. T: 030.88487711.

U Adenauerplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

Strellson This Swiss company creates fashion for men who are on their way up or, as they say, for young men with big plans. Concentrating on clarity, the Strellson philosophy is based on clear cuts and top quality for their suits and other urban wears, as well as transparent values and work attitudes. www.strellson.com. Mall of Berlin. Direct entrance from Voßstraße. T: 030.229088200.

U Mohrenstraße. E3

Rebecca Store With a unique boudoir atmosphere, this concept store is a harmonious medley of European and American designers, including Yigal Azrouel, Vera Wang, and Gas Bijoux. All items are personally selected by owner Rebecca Zehden on her many trips abroad. www.rebecca-berlin.de.

Alte Schönhauser Str. 41.

T: 030 34620780.

U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Strellson

For Top-End Bookworms Offset the grey skies with the luminous, five-room space at TASCHEN, and browse their shelves for some of the best design books around. The company started in Cologne by publishing young Benedikt Taschen’s comic collection, and turned to art and design after a few years. They have always found inspiration from great artists such as Annie Leibovitz, Marc Newson, and David Bowie, and are renowned for publishing controversial art, such as fetishistic imagery, queer art, and erotica alongside its more mainstream books. From architecture to fashion, food to travel, children’s to collectors’ editions and prints, every topic is covered and impeccably produced. In fact, the most expensive book published in the 20th century is their folio-sized Helmut Newton SUMO, the first signed copy selling at auction for over US$300k. Their Berlin store opened its doors at the end of 2016, with none other than Ai Weiwei and Wim Wenders joining the celebrations. Current bestsellers include Night Falls on Berlin in the Roaring Twenties and Das DDR Handbuch (The East German Handbook) a special two-language edition (see previous page).

Schlüterstraße 39. T: 030 88720929. www.taschen.com

This Swiss company creates fashion for men who are on their way up or, as they say, for young men with big plans. Concentrating on clarity, the Strellson philosophy is based on clear cuts and top quality for their suits and other urban wears, as well as transparent values and work attitudes. www.strellson.com. Münzstr. 8.

T: 030.24724042.

U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Talbot Runhof Designers Johnny Talbot and Adrian Runhof launched their label in Munich but have since gone global, branching out from glamorous evening gowns into everyday outfits and accessories. Discover the comprehensive range of dresses, separates, and knitwear, plus shoes and accessories in their Charlottenburg boutique.

A brand hallmark is the complex, precise cuts and unusual seam placement used to create feminine, flattering silhouettes. Schlüterstr. 50.

T: 030 23363170. www.talbotrunhof.com.

U Uhlandstraße, S Savignyplatz. B4

UNIQLO Originally a chain of roadside stores in suburban Japan, this brand quickly became an Asian sensation and has now expanded to trendy urban www.wheretraveler.com 23

SHOPPING

2

3

1

THE GREAT

ROMANCE

Soft fabrics, lace, and floral patterns are wardrobe must-haves for the romantic woman.

8

7

4

5

6

1. Marc Cain, Mall of Berlin, Voßstr. 35. 2. Codello, Mall of Berlin, Voßstr. 35.

3. Unützer, Giesebrechtstr. 10. 4. Marc Cain, Mall of Berlin, Voßstr. 35.

5. Red Wing, Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 3. 6. Chopard, Chopard Boutique, Kurfürstendamm 54.

7. Tiger of Sweden, Kurfürstendamm 29. 8. Marc Cain, Mall of Berlin, Voßstr. 35.

24 W H E R E B E R L I N I F E B R UA R Y 2018

HAPPY HEARTS

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE

Chopard Boutiquen Berlin Kurfürstendamm 54 · Tel. +49 (0) 30 - 700 969 80 e-Mail: boutique.berlin@chopard.de Im KaDeWe: Tauentzienstraße 21-24 · Tel. +49 (0) 30 - 2060 398 30 e-Mail: boutique.kadewe-berlin@chopard.de www.chopard.com

HAPPY DIAMONDS

SHOPPING

LUXURY BRANDS AIGNER

CHOPARD

www.aignermunich.com.

Kurfürstendamm 50. T: 030.88683668.

U Uhlandstraße. B4

www.chopard.com Kurfürstendamm 54.

T: 030 70096980.

U Uhlandstraße. B4

BALLY www.bally.com. Kurfürstendamm 52.

T: 030.88707688. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BOGGI MILANO www.boggi.it. Kurfürstendamm 195-196.

T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BOSS www.hugoboss.com. Friedrichstr. 165.

T: 030.20613890. U Französische Straße. E3

BUCHERER www.bucherer.com. Friedrichstr. 45.

T: 030.2041049. U Kochstraße. E4

BULGARI www.bulgari.com. Kurfürstendamm 190-192. T: 030.8857920.

U Uhlandstraße. B4

EMPORIO ARMANI www.armani.com. Friedrichstr. 169-170.

T: 030 20615660. U Stadtmitte. E3

ESCADA www.escada.com.

Kurfürstendamm 195.

T: 030.88923815. U Uhlandstraße. B4

MAURICE LACROIX www.mauricelacroix.de. Friedrichstr. 166.

T: 030.33024852.

U Französische Straße. E3

MCM www.mcmworldwide.com. Rosenthaler Str. 38. T: 030.28493793.

S Hackescher Markt. F2

ROLEX www.rolex.com. Kurfürstendamm 184.

T: 030.55669010.

U Adenauerplatz. B4

WEMPE www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184.

T: 030.8826878.

U Adenauerplatz. B4

Zalando Outlet The popular online shopping fashion market has a large outlet store in Berlin, featuring 1000 square meters of fashion and accessories from the world's top brands, sold at even lower prices. www.zalando.de. Köpenicker Str. 20.

T: 0800.3300996. U Schlesiches Tor. G4

SHOES & ACCESSORIES bagatt Milano Bagatt epitomizes the appreciation for beauty for which Italy is known. With its core philosophy of fine Italian craftsmanship, bagatt Milano applies the highest quality standards to its collection of shoes, handbags and accessories. Browse the shelves for contemporary, comfortable looks for everyday wear or elegant heels.

Email: bagattberlino@gmail.com.

Bikini Berlin: Budapester Str. 38–50.

T:030 25759777. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

BREE For more than three decades, bag manufacturer BREE has stood for an intelligent symbiosis of design, function, and quality. BREE bags are useful, reliable and attractive at the same time, and the designs range from classic to contemporary and everything in between. Most BREE bags are made with natural leather, but the company is also the forerunner in the use of long-lasting synthetic materials, employed in the bike courier bags. www. bree.com. Kurfürstendamm 36. T: 030.92218263.

U Uhlandstraße. C4; KaDeWe, Tauentzienstr. 21–24.

T: 030.34394754. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Boots & Shoes With their air-cushioned sole, lace-up style, and yellow stitching, the popular Doc Martens boots launched in the UK in 1960 wasc based on a prototype by German army doctor Klaus Märtens.

Check out many designs and colors of the famous boots at Boots & Shoes, from the classic 1460 model, to shiny blue, or floral print. Ballerinas, booties, clothing, and accessories round off the offering. www.drmartens.com. Dircksenstr. 49.

T: 0800.2070700. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Dainese Not only one of the most trusted names in motorcycle protective gear, Dainese is also the place to get kitted out for equestrian and winter sports. Their famed specialty is stylish, sleek, Italian-designed motorcycle wear such as jackets, boots, and gloves, bringing together durable, timeless leather with modern materials such as Kevlar and titanium. www.dainese.com.

Hohenzollerndamm 12. T: 03029672222.

U Hohenzollernplatz. C4 hubs around the globe. Their Berlin flagship store has three floors of quality basics and fashion for women, men, and children. www.uniqlo.com.

Tauentzienstr. 7. T: 030 29028260.

U Wittenbergplatz. C4; Leipziger Platz 16.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. E3; Rosenthaler Str. 42; S Hackescher Markt. F3

Wormland This men’s boutique carries the best German and international brands, catering to a demanding man and offering a variety of styles, from classy to casual, from business to sporty. Brands include Calvin Klein, Black Kaviar, Lee Jeans, and Hugo 26 W H E R E B E R L I N I F E B R UA R Y 2018

Boss. www.wormland.de. Mall of Berlin. Direct entrance from Voßstraße. T: 030.229088200.

U Mohrenstraße. E3

Wellensteyn Founded in Germany 60 years ago as a brand for workers, Wellensteyn is now a high-class label for quality technical jackets that are also stylish, as well as other items for the outdoor life. www. wellensteyn.com. Europa Center. Tauentzienstr.

9-, 12. T: 030.23927186. U Kurfürstendamm. C4.

Grunerstr. 20. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3 T: 030.27583926. Friedrichstr. 58. T: 40744747.

U Stadtmitte. E3

Falke Flagship Store This legwear shop caters to both men and women with all kinds of socks, stockings, tights, knee-highs, and anything that will keep your legs warm. They also have a good selection of sports accessories and knitwear, as well as delightful kids’ socks. www.falke.com. Kurfürstendamm 36.

T: 030.88553565. U Uhlandstraße. B4; Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Str. 12. T: 030.20647995.

U Mohrenstraße. E3

Michael Kors The New York-based designer Michael Kors is known for his ready-to-wear fashion and luxury accessories – bags, watches, jewelry, shoes, and

other award-winning designs. www.michaelkors. com. Kurfürstendamm 219. T: 030.81825760.

U Uhlandstr. C4; Rosenthaler Str. 37.

T: 030.24088690. F2

New Era Flagship Store Looking for a new cap? This is the largest and fastest growing headwear producer in the world. There are more than 1000 styles over two floors, ranging from the classic baseball cap to modern designs, including their bestseller 59fifty, popular with the skater and hip hop crowd. www.neweracap.com. An der Spandauer Brücke 7.

T: 030.27890578. Hackescher Markt. F2

Unützer Elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacturing are what sets Unützer apart from many other shoe brands. Founded 25 years ago, this shoe label stands for elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacture. The boots, pumps, and ballerinas are all made in a small town near Venice according to the century-old Italian tradition. www.unuetzer.com. Giesebrechtstr. 10.

T: 030.88916710. U Uhlandstraße. C4

JEWELRY & WATCHES Aris Diamond Since 1906, ARIS has been specializing in diamond jewelry, delivering everything from pendants, necklaces, and earrings, to fabulous engagement rings. Got a special occasion coming up? Check up their new shop in the Mall of Berlin for refined pieces. www.arisdiamond.com. www.mallofberlin. de. Leipziger Platz 12.

U Mohrenstraße. E3

Sei Du selbst.

Juweliere Leicht This jewelry shop has its own manufactory and also carries luxurious brands like Bulgari. Utopia, Noor, and Meissen. Check out Leicht’s marvelous creations, manufactured with gold and precious stones. www.leicht-jewellery.com. Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2290212. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

HARBOUR

ROLEX Boutique

COUTURE

Authentic functional Jackets

One of the most famous brands in luxury, Rolex has been making wristwatches since 1905. First created in England, the company soon moved to Switzerland, and its perfect timepieces are recognized worldwide as the ultimate symbol of elegance and refinement. www.rolex.de. www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184.

T: 030.55669010. U Uhlandstraße. E2

Wempe One of the oldest family businesses in Germany is renowned for its passion for fine jewelry and watches, and for its precision timepieces. www.wempe.de. Kurfürstendamm 215.

See website for more locations.

T: 030.8826878. U Uhlandstraße.

C4; Friedrichstr. 82. T: 030.20399920.

U Französische Straße. E3

HOME DÉCOR Home on Earth Located in the Hackesche Höfe, this store offers home décor items made from natural materials combined with Scandinavian design. Founded by a German-Danish pair in Barcelona, this is the first store to hit Germany. www.homeonearth.com.

Hackesche Höfe/Hof V, Rosenthaler Str. 40-41.

T: 030 2834354. S Hackescher Markt F2

Schneezauber

Santorin Long

SZ-382 I Darkred

SANL-382 I Pinksmoke

Belvedere Short BVDS-44 I Red

Molecule Men

MOLM-657 I Steelblue

Funktionsbekleidung Berlin GmbH

Europa Center Tauentzienstr. 9-12

Friedrichstraße 58 Subway town centre

Grunerstr. 20, 1st fl. www.wheretraveler.com 27

SHOPPING Talbot Runhof (Schlüterstraße 50).

SIZING GUIDE SHOES US

UK

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Kunstsupermarkt More than 5000 original works of art made by young artists, with prices ranging between €59 and €330. The event's aim is to help aspiring artists become known while also opening the art market to art lovers with smaller budgets. Ever since it was launched in 1998, the "art supermarket" has been gathering more and more fans every year because, as its creators say, art makes people happy.

Open until 27 January (Mon–Sat 11am–8pm) as a pop-up store inside shopping center The Q. Free entry. Q 205 (The Q.), Friedrichstr. 67–70. www. kunstsupermarkt.de. U Französische Straße. E3

Pylones These household products are created to add a spark to our daily lives, filling it with color and fun.

The designers choose zoomorphic themes.

28 W H E R E B E R L I N I F E B R UA R Y 2018

One of Germany's most famous white porcelain manufacturers, Rosenthal is synonymous with impeccable quality and high value in tableware and art. Kurfürstendamm. T: 030.88681574.

U Uhlandstraße, U Kurfürstendamm. C4

BEAUTY & WELLNESS Babor Specializing in beauty driven by science, Babor creates skincare solutions for every woman’s unique needs. Top-sellers at the flagship store include vitamin-rich skin serums and deluxe foundations with a lifting effect. www.babor.de. Französische Str. 48.

T: 030. 20622222.

U Französische Straße. E3

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Flaconi

Rosenthal

Once upon a time in Berlin, a German king bought a local porcelain factory, and Königliche PorzellanManufaktur was born. Today, the royally founded company is known as KPM Berlin for short, but still makes exquisite, world-renowned porcelain tableware and decorative goods. At its Tiergarten headquarters, the oldest still-running manufactory in the city, visitors can take a tour, take a break in the café, and – of course – shop for beautiful hand-painted porcelain. www.kpm-berlin.com.

Wegelystraße 1.

T: 030 390090.

S Tiergarten. C3

34 36 38 40 42 44

CHILDREN 24 25.5 27 28 29 30.5

www.pylones.com. Kurfürstendamm 225 (check website for other store locations).

T: 030.92362488. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

KPM Berlin

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Euro

A large perfumerie carrying all the best perfume brands as well a myriads of products for the skin and hair as well as makeup. www.flaconi.de. Leipziger Str. 36. T: 030.20674990.

U Mohrenstraße. E3

Frau Tonis Parfum

The perfume boutique offers scents inspired by the city, like Pure Violet, originally composed for Marlene Dietrich. Take a scent test to find the fragrances that suit you best or ask customize your own bottle. www.frau-tonis-parfum.com.

Zimmerstr. 13.

The first set of traffic T: 030.20215310. U Kochstraße. E4

lights in Europe was installed in 1924 on Potsdamer Platz.

Bad Saarow Therme This thermal complex in the spa town of Bad Saarow offers various treatments including detox mud baths and massages, and has various indoor and outdoor pools. www.bad-saarow.de. Am Kurpark 1.

Bad Saarow. T: 033631.8680. Off map

Catherine Nail Salon The popular Catherine nailcare brand now has a nail salon here in Berlin. Stop by or make an appointment for some grooming time between shopping and sightseeing. www.catherine-berlin.de. Knesebeck Str. 35.

T: 030. 55214475.

U Uhlandstraße. C4

Parfumsalon

An exclusive perfume boutique that has been offering fragrances for more than five decades. The shop's selection include rarities and special aromas, all handpicked by owner and perfume expert Mario Worms. www.parfumsalon.de.

Uhlandstr.

173-174. T: 030.8827306. E3

ELECTRONICS Sennheiser This German brand stands for innovation in the world of audio electronics, from microphones and speakers to headsets and more. The cuttingedge wireless headphones in particular are prized by pro musicians, DJs, music fans, and gamers alike. Test out all the latest models at the Charlottenburg store. www. sennheiser.com.

Tauentzienstr. 17. T: 030.23630162.

U Wittenbergplatz. C4

SHOPPING MAPS

ADVERTORIALS

AUDIO EXPERIENCE

Visit us Monday to Saturday 10 am to 8 pm

Sennheiser Store Berlin

Tauentzienstr. 17 - 10789 Berlin S-Bahn/U-Bahn Zoologischer Garten U-Bahn Wittenbergplatz

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P e SENSTR E MOMM van COS ors R B Laa TE Ren che D uche Tumi ck Yves Saint Laurent BCBG re e éL MA eza sign r Louis Vuitton Lag XA M r M e d ZR A rfel Augsburger Str. Hermès IA d Q Parfu TEND R 208 msa Ch ÜRS Unützer Bo ose lon op Bally URF Val tte nth K GI B a e e r ga rlin al ES SØR E Ven ntino d EB Ma SCA RE eta u D Bu CH lga rice LA BOGGI Milano TS acr ri Do TR. Jens Richard TR. oi lce RGER S Jil &G Gucci x LIETZENBU Sa a n B M bb de urb M an r ENDA err a Cartier | Campbell | Chanel y ÜRST Ma KURF xM Ermenegildo Zegna Adenauer- Tom Mulberry ara /M bo MCM | PRADA platz ari lin na i Rin ald ROLEX Boutique i

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PARFUMSALON

SENNHEISER STORE

More than a century of precision craftsmanship comes to the Ku'damm in the form of Germany's first Rolex Boutique.

The flagship store offers a distinctive experience, including an exclusive setting and world-class service.

This exclusive perfume boutique has been offering extraordinary fragrances since the 1960s. Mario Worms is an expert in perfume counseling, offering advice on the perfect scent for every client, and the shop's selection includes rare bottles and unusual aromas.

Sennheiser’s first official brand store is located in the heart of Berlin’s City-West.

Experience leadership in audio on 120sq.m., including cutting-edge headphones and microphones. Visit us and take a piece of Sennheiser home.

Open Mon-Sat 10am–8pm.

Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030 55669010 rolexboutique.berlin@wempe.de

Uhlandstr. 173-174. T: 030 8827306 www.parfumsalon.de

Tauentzienstr. 17. T: 030 23630162 www.sennheiser.com www.wheretraveler.com 29

SHOPPING MAPS

MALL OF BERLIN

COS

HALLHUBER

MARC CAIN

Reno

SWAROVSKI

Deichmann

Hollister

Marc O’Polo

Replay

Taschenparadies

HUGO BOSS

MASSIMO DUTTI

Rich & Royal

THOMAS SABO

Mavi

Runners Point

Tom Tailor

MAX & CO.

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daughters

TOMMY JEANS

DESIGUAL Dogo Shoes

Hunkemöller

Einblick Optik

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Engelsrufer & Co.

Jack & Jones

Esprit

C&A

MANKIND

Calvin Klein Jeans

JD Sports

NAVYBOOT

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KARL LAGERFELD

Nike

FASHION CLUB

Kingz

NYX PROFESSIONAL

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Konplott

MAKEUP

LACOSTE

Oakley

Airfield

CALZEDONIA

ARIS Art of

Casano

Diamond

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ARMANI JEANS

CHRIST

Foot Locker Fossil

LIEBESKIND

Frisco Jeans

Lief!

Triumph

Sarar

TWIN-SET

Schiesser

UN1DEUX2TROIS3

Schuh Bode

Undiz

SHOE CITY

Vans

Sidestep

Olymp

Levi’s

French Connection

Trigema

Salamander

Eterna Fashion & Accessories 7 FOR ALL

Muji

VERO MODA

Sizeer

Palmers

WE-Fashion

PANDORA

SNIPES

Wigglesteps

Passionata

Sportalm Kitzbühel

WORMLAND

Peak Performance

SPORTSCHECK

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Peek &

Street Shoes

ZERO

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Cloppenburg

STRELLSON

H&M

MANGO

Pepe Jeans

Sunglass Hut

G-Star Raw

Backlash

CINQUE

GANT

Bershka

Claire’s

GINA TRICOT

BIJOU BRIGITTE

Clarks Ecco

BREE

Codello

Liu Jo

...and the biggest Foodhall.

WB MALL OF BERLIN.indd 1 LEIPZIGER PLATZ / POTSDAMER PLATZ

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Travel the world at KulturBrauerei: See the best current films from all corners of the globe in their original language version – regularly in our programme! Info and tickets at cinestar.de 30 W H E R E B E R L I N I F E B R UA R Y 2018

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A PLACE FOR SHOPPING ARKADEN SHOPS geöffnet Mo.–Sa., 10–21 Uhr POTSDAMERPLATZ.DE

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This perfume manufactory has been described as Berlin’s most unique perfumery.

Try classics such as Linde Berlin, or Pure Violet, Marlene Dietrich’s favorite fragrance.

For something more personal, join other scent aficionados from all over the world and create your own, private perfume.

Zimmerstr. 13 (Checkpoint Charlie).

T: 030 20215310 www.frau-tonis-parfum.com

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The famous Parisian department store brings French charm and style to Berlin with five floors of fashion, accessories, beauty products and delicacies.

Galeries Lafayette is located in the Quartier 207 where you can also shop at Gucci, Opera‘s, Le Nails, Sathea, Cashmere House, Manon Chocolaterie, La Librairie and Galeries Lafayette Outlet.

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Beauty meets science at this skincare institute. Owner and cosmetics expert Christiane Lingner offers high-level treatments such as deluxe facials, skin analyses, purifying sessions, manicures, pedicures, as well as intensive and strengthening treatments for the gentlemen.

Head to the flagship store for vitamin-rich serums and foundations with a lifting effect.

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THE GUIDE | SIGHTSEEING

Berlin’s Most Central Park Luisa Weiss explores Park am Gleisdreieck and the surrounding attractions.

Berlin is the city of converted spaces: You'll find factories turned restaurants or eclectic concert halls, old airports that are now public parks, old train stations which now host contemporary art exhibitions and events. And then there's Gleisdreieck, the former railway yard that once surrounded the former Anhalter Bahnhof goods station, destroyed by Allied bombs during WWII. For many years, Gleisdreieck (literally "railway triangle") was an overgrown, slightly abandoned area, seen by most only from the U-Bahn tracks running overhead. But in recent years, the 31 hectares of land were cleaned up, landscaped, and transformed into an urban oasis. The park is filled with playgrounds, bike paths, skateboard pits, basketball courts, little cafés, and lush green areas, all smack in the center of the city.

Using Park am Gleisdreieck as a jumping off point for a stroll around Schöneberg and Mitte is a great way to combine many of Berlin’s attractions in one day. Once you’ve had your fill of the park, there’s plenty to see

without going too far.

To warm up after a stroll in the park, head north for both the Deutsches Technikmuseum (Trebbiner Str. 9), which explores the history of Germany technology and transport, or the Spectrum Science Center next door (see p. 37). If you head west to the newly opened Urban Nation Museum for Contemporary Art (www.

urban-nation.com), you can check out a wide array of street art and graffiti.

Also near the park is the Tempodrom concert hall (www.tempodrom.de), which also houses a day spa called Liquidrom (www. liquidrom-berlin.de), where you can spend hours in the sauna or listening to underwater music played by a rotating cast of DJs. Also not far are the remains of the Anhalter Bahnhof. All that is left today is a fragment of the entryway to the station, serving as a sort of memorial. If craft beer is more your speed, head to the BRLO Brwhouse (www.brlo-brwhouse.de) on the park grounds, housed in a huge jumble of shipping containers. BRLO serves their own craft beers as well as rib-sticking fare like smoked meat sandwiches and roasted duck with inventive vegetable sides. For finer cuisine, head to the Michelin-starred Facil (www.facil.de) in the Mandala Hotel on Potsdamer Platz, or the creative and buzzy Panama restaurant (oh-panama.com) on Potsdamer Straße. www.wheretraveler.com 33

SIGHTSEEING Haus der Kulturen der Welt

The “Alex” TV Tower The 368m- (1027ft)-high TV tower of Alexanderplatz can be seen from almost any point in the city and has been iconic of Berlin ever since it was built by the GDR in 1969. The giant steel-clad sphere atop houses a revolving restaurant and café as well as a viewing platform. The elevator ride lasts 40 seconds. Arrive early to avoid lines.

Daily 9am–midnight (Nov–Feb from 10am). €13/8.50. www.tv-turm.de. Panoramastr. 1a.

T: 030.24757537. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Berliner Dom The city’s neo-Renaissance cathedral was begun in the late 1700s, finished in 1905, and renovated in simplified form after WWII damage. Walk up 267 steps for glorious views of the city from the dome, or stay on the ground floor to gaze at elaborate sarcophagi containing the royal remains of Hohenzollern family members. Thanks to the church’s perfect acoustics and a 7200-pipe organ, the Dom is also an important concert venue.

Mon–Sat 9am–8pm, Sun 9am–8pm (winter until 7pm). €7/5. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten.

T: 030.20269119. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Brandenburg Gate MUST SEE The definitive Berlin icon, Carl Gotthard Langhans’ Neoclassical triumphal arch has witnessed the city’s best and worst moments, from the military parades of the Third Reich to the Wall being raised and torn down. Formerly behind GDR borders, today the gate acts mainly as the backdrop for festivals, New Year’s Eve parties, and tourist snapshots. U Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3

Charlottenburg Palace The summer home of Sophie Charlotte, wife of King Friedrich I of Prussia, reflects the grandeur of the Hohenzollern family. Begun in 1695, the luxury Baroque complex consists of a main building with a central cupola and two side wings, added in later years, that enclose a courtyard. The picturesque park surrounding the castle includes a formal French-style garden, English garden with pond and statues, belvedere, and mausoleum. The castle hosts temporary art and history exhibitions.

Tue–Sun 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm). €12/8. www.spsg.de. Spandauer Damm 20-24.

T: 030.9694200. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Hackesche Höfe An intricate series of interconnected courtyards provides an example of early-19th-century German Secessionist style. The first courtyard is entirely decorated with glazed blue-and-white tiles in geometric designs, while the apartment buildings and narrow, maze-like alleys lined with cafés, shops, and theaters give the Höfe an atmosphere both familiar and fascinating.

Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. S Hackescher Markt. E2/F2

THE BERLIN WALL

Walter Ulbricht,

Dubbed the “pregnant oyster” by locals because of its curvy shape, the Haus der Kulturen der Welt was built as a congress hall in 1956. The building quickly became a symbol of western freedom and creativity, in contrast to East German architectural projects of the time. Computer-guided chime concerts ring daily at noon and 6pm and the building now hosts concerts and intercultural events. Open daily 10am–7pm. € prices vary. www.hkw.de. John-Foster-Dulles-Allee 10.

T: 030.397870. U Bundestag. D3

Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche This church’s bombed-out bell tower has been an anti-war memorial and a symbol of West Berlin ever since its ruins were restored to their present state in 1957. The old church’s ruins now host an exhibition of before and after photos documenting its former splendor and showing the Ku’damm before the bombs. Look up to admire what is left of the old mosaic. Open daily from 9am to 6pm. www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin. de. Breitscheidplatz. T: 030.2185023.

U Zoologischer Garten, Kurfürstendamm. C4

by artist Christo, and renovated by Lord Norman Foster. Climb the glass cupola for a 360-degree view of the city, then gaze down at parliament in session.

The plenary hall can be visited only on guided tours.

Cupola: Daily 8am–midnight by appointment only.

Free. Register on website; it is recommended to do so at least three days prior to your visit. Audio tours available. www.bundestag.de. Platz der Republik 1.

T: 030.22732152. U Bundestag. D3/E3

Siegessäule (Victory Column) The triumphal column on the Straße der 17. Juni, in the middle of Tiergarten park, commemorates victory in the Prusso-Danish war, while the angel on top was added after two further war victories against Austria and France. Daily 9:30am–6:30pm (weekends until 7pm); winter 10am–5pm (weekends until 5:30pm). €3/2. Großer Stern 1.

T: 030.3912961. U Hansaplatz. C3/D3

HISTORIC SITES Asisi’s Wall Panorama

Yadegar Asisi created a panorama of divided Berlin, presenting everyday life against the backdrop of the Wall In 1995, artist Christo on an imaginary day in the 1980s.

Nikolaiviertel and wrapped up the The artist's aim was to show how Reichstag in 100,000 Knoblauchhaus the population came to terms with sq.m. of polypropylene The Nikolaiviertel is where Berlin the situation, and the result gives fabric. was born, and the area still retains onlookers a glimpse of East German life. its ancient character, although most Daily 10am–6pm. €10/4. of the buildings in the narrow medieval www.asisi.de. Friedrichstr. 205. alleys are replicas of destroyed originals that dated T: 0341.3555340. Kochstraße. E3/E4 back to the 1200s. The late-Gothic Nikolaikirche, Berlin’s oldest surviving building, is now a museum. Other points of interest include the Ephraim Palais Museum and the Biedermeierstyle Knoblauchhaus, a 19th-century middleclass townhouse that escaped WWII damage.

Knoblauch Haus: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. www.knoblauchhaus.de. Poststr. 23.

T: 030.240020171. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Potsdamer Platz Before the war, Potsdamer Platz was the city’s beating heart, with department stores, banks, internationally known theaters, dance halls, and cafés. WWII bombs obliterated 80 percent of the square, which was left in limbo for a few years and then enclosed in a no-man’s-land between the Wall and barbed wire fences. The square came back to life in the 1990s as a modern reinterpretation of its original self. Divided in three slices, it includes the Sony building with its central plaza; Daimler City, home to a large shopping mall; and the Manhattan-style Beisheim Center building. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Reichstag and Foster’s Glass Cupola MUST SEE In the last 100 years, the massive neo-Renaissance building, now the seat of German Parliament, has been bombed, set on fire, wrapped

MUST SEE Walk along one of the few surviving stretches of the Berlin Wall in an area of the city where its impact was particularly dramatic, then delve into its storied history at the documentation center. Documents and original radio broadcasts from both East and West chronicle one of Germany’s saddest historical periods. Open-air exhibition: 8am-10pm daily; documentation center: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. Free. www.berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de.

Bernauer Str. 111. Bernauer Straße. E2

Checkpoint Charlie During the Cold War, Checkpoint Charlie was the main gateway between East and West. Shortly after the Wall went up, US and Soviet tanks faced each other on this spot. Today, the crossing point acts primarily as a backdrop for tourist photographs. U Kochstraße, U Stadtmitte. E3/E4

East Side Gallery While West Berliners loved to express their creativity by drawing graffiti and painting on the Wall, East Berliners were never allowed to use the dividing structure as a canvas. To make up for all the artless years, artists from 21 countries were called

1961 head of the

1963 wishing to

West Germans

1963 John F. Kennedy

1970 dissatisfaction

1974 Guillaume,

Socialist Unity Party, erects a barbed-wire fence dividing Germany into two parts.

visit the East must obtain a visa from the government.

delivers his “Ich bin ein Berliner” speech at West Berlin’s Rathaus Schöneberg.

grows in East Germany, as food supplies run short; 22 strikes attest to the civil unrest.

aide to West German chancellor Willy Brandt, is arrested as a spy.

Main moments in the Wall’s 29-year history.

34 W H E R E B E R L I N I F E B R UA R Y 2018

U.S. President

Berlin Wall Documentation Center

Economic

Günter

WALL: PHOTO © BERLIN WALL NEAR OSTBAHNHOF, © ESTRAFALARIUS, WIKIMEDIA COMMONS.

MAJOR SIGHTS

upon in 1990 to decorate one mile of the Wall's eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery. Mühlenstraße.

S+U Warschauer Straße, S Ostbahnhof. G4

crimes they committed throughout Europe.

A segment of the Wall runs along the grounds.

Daily 10am–8pm. Free. www.topographie.de.

Niederkirchnerstr. 8. T: 030.2545090. U Kochstraße. E4

Erlebnis Europa

Tränenpalast (Palace of Tears)

The "Europa experience" exhibition near Brandenburg Gate offers the possibility to virtually make a difference in Europe and find out more about EU politics. Round media tables and a 360-degree cinema convey the history and outline the tasks of the EU commission in 24 languages.

Daily. www.erlebnis-europa.eu. Unter den Linden 78.

T: 030 2280 2900 U Brandeburg Tor. D3

Until 1990, the departure hall of the Friedrichstraße station was also a border crossing for West Berliners on their way home after visiting relatives and friends in the East. The many painful farewells brought locals to rename the building the “palace of tears.” The permanent exhibition Border Experience: Everyday Life in Divided Germany recounts the effects of the border on German residents of the time. Tue–Fri 9am–7pm (Sat–Sun until 6pm).

Free. www.hdg.de. Reichstagufer 17.

T: 030.46777790. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Holocaust Memorial MUST SEE Berlin’s tribute to the victims of the Holocaust is as big as a soccer field and consists of 2711 tombstone-like slabs of equal size and varying heights, placed on uneven ground to convey a sense of claustrophobia and disorientation.

The underground information center provides a timeline of Jewish persecution. Accessible 24 hours a day. Free. www.holocaust-mahnmal.de.

Cora-Berliner Straße. T: 030.2639430.

U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Karl-Marx-Allee Berlin’s best example of GDR-era Neorealist architecture is a 90m- (295ft-)wide boulevard built between 1950 and 1960 to provide housing for thousands of residents and to act as a backdrop for military parades. The street quickly became a source of national pride for East Germany, due to its residential tower blocks inspired by Moscow and by Stalin’s ideal style: nationalistic in form but socialist in content. The boulevard is an important architectural showcase. U Weberwiese, Strausberger Platz. F3/G3

Stasi Prison MUST SEE Between 1945 and 1989, more than 20,000 people suspected of opposing the East German political system were arrested by the Stasi (secret police) and brought to this custody building. In its first and darkest years, the prison’s cellars, known as “the submarine,” were used to inflict psychological torture on the inmates, while the relatively more humane cells are on the upper floors, next to a seemingly never-ending corridor lined with interrogation rooms. Tours in English on Wed, Sat, and Sun at 2:30pm in winter, daily at 11:30am and 2:30pm in summer. €6/3. en. stiftung-hsh.de. Genslerstr. 66.

T: 030.98608230. S Landsberger Allee, then Tram M5 to Freienwalder Str., then 10-minute walk.

Off Map

Topographie des Terrors MUST SEE On the site of the former headquarters of the SS and the Third Reich’s most important offices, this permanent exhibition recounts the tragic history of Nazi forced labor, focusing on the central institutions of the SS and Third Reich police and the

East Germany

Ronald Reagan

Let‘s go up!

KIDS & FAMILIES Berlin Dungeon Much like the London Dungeon, the Berlin Dungeon provides a terrifying interactive journey through the city's dark past via a sometimesspooky, actor-led experience. Visitors are taken through attractions such as the old library of Berlin, a plague-infected street, a torture chamber, a secret court, and more. Not recommended for young children. Daily 10am–6pm (winter weekends until 5pm). €20.50/12.30(discount when booking online). Under-14s must be accompanied by adult.

Combined LEGOLAND, Madame Tussauds, and Sea Life tickets available. www.thedungeons.com.

Spandauer Str. 2. S+U Hackescher Markt. F3

Berlin Zoo and Aquarium MUST SEE One of the city’s main attractions and the oldest zoo in Germany includes pavilions that provide ample indoor space, making the venue suitable for rainy days. The zoo boasts the largest number of species and total animal residents in the world. The aquarium, one of the largest in Europe, features large tanks with piranhas, sharks, and alligators. Daily 9am–6:30pm. Zoo or aquarium: €14.50/7.50, under-4s free. Combined ZooAquarium ticket: €20/10. www.aquarium-berlin.de, www.zoo-berlin.de Hardenbergplatz 8.

T: 030.254010. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Botanischer Garten This large park was designed in the Romantic English style, with hills, lakes, and pretty greenhouses. There is a palm house and a whole section dedicated to exotic plants, including orchids, cacti, and carnivorous plants. Open daily 9am–ca. one hour before sunset. Museum closes at 6pm. €6/3.

Children’s Museum Labyrinth One of Berlin’s two children’s museums. Two floors of activity stations on the theme of construction.

Pleasant outdoor area for the warmer days. Open Fri and Sat 1–6pm, Sun 11–6pm. €4.50 for all over-

Dismantling of

Towering 368m above Berlin, the TV Tower dominates the city’s skyline like no other building. Plan your visit for the observation deck or the revolving restaurant “Sphere” now and avoid the queues – book your Fast Track Ticket online.

Berlin TV Tower – simply unforgettable!

On 9 November:

1984 boycotts the

1987 gives a speech

1989 the Iron Curtain

1989 Socialist Politbüro

Summer Olympics in Los Angeles.

at Brandenburg Gate demanding that Mikhail Gorbachev “tear down this wall.”

begins as Hungary cuts the barbed wire around its border.

member Schabowski mistakenly tells a press conference the border will be opened immediately.

www.tv-turm.de www.wheretraveler.com 35

SIGHTSEEING 3s (3.50 on Fridays). www.labyrinth-kindermuseum. de. Osloer Str. 12. T: 030.800931150.

U Osloer Straße then tram. Off Map

Children’s Museum MachMit MUST SEE A hands-on museum for children. There is a climbing structure, a maze, a soap making workshop, a cinema, and lots of activities to encourage discovery through playing.

Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €5.50 for all over-3s. www.machmitmuseum.de. Senefelderstr. 5/6.

T: 030.74778200. S Prenzlauer Allee. F1

Computer Game Museum Over 300 items, including rare originals, walk visitors through the development of computer games from the 1959 Brown Box to the Playstation and beyond. Visitors can test most of the games.

Open Wed–Mon 10am–8pm. €8/5. www.computerspielemuseum.de. Karl-Marx-Allee 93a. T: 030.60988577. U Weberwiese. G3

Currywurst Museum

Domäne Dahlem City Farm A real farm in the Berlin suburbs, with a manor house from the 1600s, boasts farm grounds that are still in use, complete with all the usual barnyard animals. There’s also a small exhibition of ancient agricultural tools and a Saturday-morning farmers’ market. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm in summer. Farm: Free except during special events. Museum: €3/1.50. www.domaenedahlem.de. Königin-LuiseStr. 49. T: 030.6663000. U Dahlem Dorf. Off Map

Madame Tussauds Have your picture taken with Angela Merkel, Albert Einstein, One Direction, or a host of other famous names in entertainment and politics. And, yes, there's even a wax Adolf Hitler, depicted as a little man standing in despair in his bunker during his final days. Daily 10am–7pm (Aug until 8pm). €23.50/18.50, discounts if you book online.

Combined Berlin Dungeon, LEGOLAND, and Sea Life tickets available. www.madametussauds.com.

Unter den Linden 74. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Sea Life & AquaDom Dazzling clownfish, scary sharks, crawling spider crabs, and lovely seahorses are just some of the 5,000 creatures inhabiting this small but interesting aquarium. Discover the ethereal dance of the jellyfish and observe the eagle rays on your way to the Aquadom, a 16-m-tall cylindrical tropical fish tank that can be viewed from a slow elevator. Daily 10am–7pm. €17.50/12.50 (discounts when booking online). Under-3s free. Combined tickets with Madame Tussauds, Berlin Dungeon, and Legoland also available. www.visitsealife.com.

Spandauer Str. 3. S Hackescher Markt, S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

TOURS & GUIDED WALKS Berlinagenten These luxury tour agents specialize in “urban lifestyle guidance,” introducing their clients to exclusive locations, people, shops, and clubs.

Offerings include a “Pimp Me Up” spa and makeover tour, culinary experiences, private house visits, limo tours, and – for an authentic urban experience – a graffiti workshop.

36 W H E R E B E R L I N I F E B R UA R Y 2018

Strawberry Ice Attack Cool news from Karls Erlebnis-Dorf Elstal! Shortly before Christmas, this strawberrythemed adventure village, just a short drive from Berlin, opened the doors of its third ice world and Europe’s largest ice sculpture exhibition, titled Erdbär Karlchen trifft Merkel. Twenty-three international artists created a colorful world of snow and ice on the theme of travel, taking you and the strawberry-red bear (Karls' mascot) on a frosty journey around the globe. From the Leaning Tower of Pisa and London’s Big Ben to salsa dancing in Havana and Angela Merkel in front of the Brandenburg Gate, you will be visiting 12 countries at freezing temperatures. Afterwards, warm up at the reindeerdecorated “ice bar” with mulled wine or hot chocolate with marshmallows. The exhibition is on display until October 2018, but at this time of year the fun park is transformed into a winter wonderland, with ice skating and slides, curling, tractor rides through the snow, and the whiff of comforting treats in the market hall.

Döberitzer Heide 1, 14641 Elstal. T: 030 82024050. www.karls.de

From €300. www.berlinagenten.com.

Bornholmer Str. 4. T: 030.43720701.

Berliner Unterwelten (Underground Tours) Since 1997, the Berlin Underworlds Association has been offering regular tours of underground structures and subterranean complexes that are otherwise inaccessible. Cold War nuclear shelters, Hitler’s underground fortress, escape routes to the West, and WWII bunkers are just some of the adventures on offer. From €10. www.berliner-unterwelten.de. Brunnenstr. 105.

T: 030.49910517.

CooLTourings Segway Tours Covering Berlin’s top 20 sightseeing highlights, CooLTourings takes individual visitors or large groups on an exciting ride aboard a Segway a fun and fast way to explore the city. www.seg-berlin-ways.de.T: 030.26321381.

Trabi World For a quintessential Berlin tour experience, hop inside real Trabants, the iconic cars of the former GDR. Visitors drive their personal Trabis, while, via the car’s radio, the group leader provides historical and quirky facts. Three different tours available. €30-50. www.trabi-world.de. Zimmerstr.

97. T: 030.30201030.orate one mile of the Wall's eastern segment with their work, creating what is

now known as the East Side Gallery. Mühlenstraße.

S+U Warschauer Straße, S Ostbahnhof. G4

POTSDAM Biosphäre Potsdam This tropical indoor garden features a greenhouse with more than 20,000 plants, including a palm grove and mangrove swamp, as well as animals such as iguanas, parrots, geckos, frogs, and butterflies. Daily Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, from 10am on weekends and holidays. €11.50/9.80. Under-3s free. www.biosphaere-potsdam.de. Georg-HalemannAllee 99. T: 0331.550740. Tram 96 from Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

Sanssouci MUST SEE The sumptuous Rococo castle of Potsdam's Sanssouci was commissioned in 1745 by Frederick the Great, who wanted "a place to be without cares." The king of Prussia employed the finest architects of the day to design the Baroque park, the Schloß placed above terraced vineyards, the more sober New Palace, and a few other pavilions scattered in the park. Daily 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm); Mon closed. €15/11. www.spsg.de. An der Orangerie 1, Potsdam.

T: 0331.9694200. S Potsdam or regional train from Zoologischer Garten to Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

KARLS: COURTESY OF KARLS ERLEBNIS-DORF

Learn about Berlin’s most famous street food at this small but entertaining museum. Delve into Currywurst history, discover the secrets of its yellow sauce in the "spice chamber," and watch movies starring the delicious sausage. Daily 10am–8pm. €11/7, under-6s free. www.currywurstmuseum.de.

Schützenstr. 70. T: 030.88718647. U Kochstraße. E4

THE GUIDE | MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Science Says

PHOTOS COURTESY OF NATURKUNDEMUSEUM

Nothing like a bit of math and physics to try and understand the meaning of life. Solveig Steinhardt went on a tour of the city's best science museums.

What do physicists Albert Einstein and Max Planck, geographer Alexander von Humboldt, bacteriologist Robert Koch, and mathematician Louis Lagrange have in common? They've all been members of the Berlin Academy of Science. With such reputable names and three prestigious city universities, Berlin has always been one of Europe's capitals of science.

Whether you want to get a glimpse of the city's scientific legacy or simply to stimulate your brain, check out our favorite scientific spots.

Spread out over four floors filled with experiment stations, the Spectrum Science Centre (MĂśckernstr. 26, www. sdtb.de) lets you personally experience and understand the most important principles of physics, from acoustic waves

and electricity to fluids, the visible spectrum, and magnetism. The exhibition is highly engaging and fun for both school-aged kids and grownups. The Center is part of the neighboring Deutsches Technikmuseum (Trebbiner Str. 9, www.sdtb.de), which showcases science applied to technology through aircraft, trains, cars, and machinery, with a strong focus on the history of German engineering.

To gradually move on from pure theory to the life sciences you will have to take the S-Bahn to the city's southern district of Dahlem, where you can visit a rich plant display at Botanischer Garten.

Although the lush garden is best enjoyed in summer, its gigantic greenhouses also make it a perfect winter getaway thanks

to their warm and humid micro-climate that allows for the growth and year-round wellbeing of a tropical jungle, complete with butterflies, birds, and waterfalls. The retro-looking Botanical Museum inside the garden is also worth a visit if you want to learn more about seeds and unusual plants.

A step further up on the evolutionary ladder is the Museum fĂźr Naturkunde (Natural History Museum, Invalidenstr. 43, www.naturkundemuseum.berlin) in Mitte, exploring the animal world from various perspectives. Visitors will be admiring the largest mounted dinosaur skeleton in Europe, many fossils, a whole collection of mounted animal dioramas which look incredibly real, and a fascinating wall of preserved specimens in glass jars. www.wheretraveler.com 37

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

MUSEUMS

TOP 5

"OSTALGIA" SPOTS

With the fall of the Wall came the birth of Ostalgia, a German term that refers to nostalgia for aspects of life in East Germany. And for those who are feeling a bit ostalgic today, we’ve picked a few places that still feel like it’s 1987.

Altes Museum Berlin’s collection of classical antiquities, housed inside a breathtaking Neoclassical building. Take in the mosaic floor of Hadrian’s villa, a wealth of Greek sculptures, and a number of Etruscan and Roman finds. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum.

Am Lustgarten.

T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Alte Nationalgalerie A splendorous collection of 19th-century art. To 18 Mar: Rodin - Rilke - Hofmannsthal. Man and His Genius.

Celebrating the 100th anniversary of Rodin's death with his masterpieces. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6 with exhibition, €10/5 museum only. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1–3.

T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Bode Museum

Bröhan Museum

1 KARL-MARX-ALLEE:

2 THE STASI MUSEUM: Provides tangible proof of the espionage techniques used by the East German secret police to control the population.

3 VEB ORANGE: The store near Mauerpark sells original GDR design, from retro lamps to armchairs and kitchen utensils, including the iconic chicken-shaped egg holders. www.veborange.de

4 TRÄNENPALAST: The old border control building between East and West in the Friedrichstraße station was dubbed "Palace of Tears" because of the sad farewells it had to witness every day.

5 TRABI WORLD: This tour company offers the quintessential GDR experience aboard a real Trabant, East Germany's iconic car.

You'll be driving your own "Trabi" while following the group leader and listening to his instructions and historical facts via the car's radio. www.trabi-world.de.

38 W H E R E B E R L I N I F E B R UA R Y 2018

Starting in 1966, collector Karl Bröhan amassed hundreds of Art Nouveau and Art Deco objects and various paintings from the Berlin Secessionist movement. Browse through pieces of furniture, housewares, ceramics, and glassware from this fascinating artistic period. To 3 Oct: Kiss. From Rodin to Bob Dylan. Following the kiss in modern art. Open Tue–Sun 10am–6pm www.broehan-museum.de. Schloßstr. 1a.

T: 030.32690600. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

DDR Museum Learn about daily life in the former East Germany at this hands-on museum.

Closets filled with GDR (DDR in German) fashion and a Trabant (the GDR car) are just some of the items on display, while photographs illustrate Communist habits, such as collectively potty-training babies or going on nudist holidays. Mon–Sun 10am–8pm, Sat until 10pm. €7/4. www.ddrmuseum.de. Karl-LiebknechtStr. 1. T: 030.847123731.

S Hackescher Markt, U Alexanderplatz. E3

Deutsches Historisches Museum MUST SEE Learn about the milestones in German history from the Roman occupation of the Germanic areas to the present day. To 15 Apr: 1917. Revolution.

Russia and Europe. Exploring the 100 years since the Russian Revolution and the changes it brought forth. To 8 Apr:

Deutsches Technikmuseum MUST SEE At the museum for all things technology, the old locomotives and aviation rooms are the most popular attractions, while a Rosinenbomber, a 1948 Berlin Airlift aircraft, is mounted on the museum’s roof. A hands-on section allows kids to conduct experiments.

To 18 Feb: The Internet as a place. Photographs by Heinrich Holtgreve in search of the Internet.

To 2 Sep: Seamarks! Highlights of orientation along Germany's Coasts. A presentation of how seafarers found their direction on the sea. Mon–Fri 9am–5:30pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €8/4. www.sdtb.de. Trebbiner Str. 9. T: 030.902540.

U Möckernbrücke, U Gleisdreieck. E4

Ephraim Palais Temporary exhibitions on local cultural history fill this great Baroque building. Demolished in 1935, the Palais was rebuilt in 1983 using its original façade, which had been stored in a warehouse for almost 50 years. Open Tues, Thu–Sun 10am–6pm, Wed noon-8pm. €7/5 under 18s free. www.stadtmuseum.de.

Poststr. 16. 030 24002162.

U Alexanderplatz E3

Berlin has more museums than rainy days per year.

An extensive collection of Old Masters’ paintings, a section dedicated to ancient coins, and many works of Roman and Byzantine art adorn the museum’s impressive interior, built by Ernst von Ihne in 1904. Tue–Fri 10am– 6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.smb.museum. Am Kupfergraben.

T: 030.266424242. U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Former East Berlin's most important boulevard makes for a prime example of GDR architecture, with some old shops still standing, abandoned and desolate.

Craving For New Pictures: From Broadsheet to Comic Strip. A display of the vibrant history of graphics in media. Daily 10am–6pm. €8/4 (under-18s free). www.dhm.de. Unter den Linden 2.

T: 030.203040. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

The Gay Museum (Schwules Museum) One of the world’s largest and most significant institutions for archiving, researching, and communicating the history and culture of LGBTQ communities. Changing exhibitions take diverse approaches to lesbian, gay, transgender, bisexual, and queer biographies and concepts in history, art, and culture. To 5 Feb: Marc Martin: Fenster zum Klo - Public toilets & private affairs. Martin documents the history and stories of public toilets. To 28 Feb: Fascination Sex: The Theorist & Activist Martin Dannecker. Following the story of the critical theorist, in celebration of his 75th birthday. Sun– Mon, Wed–Fri 2–6pm, Thu 2–8pm, Sat 2–7pm. €6/4. www.schwulesmuseum.de. Lützowstr. 73.

T: 030.69599050. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

Jewish Museum MUST SEE Daniel Libeskind’s

architectural jewel, shaped as a deconstructed Star of David, explores millennia of German Jewish history, including the alternating glories and persecutions of the community. From 11 Dec: Welcome to Jerusalem. An exploration of Jerusalem through time and religion Daily 10am–8pm, Mon until 10pm. €8/3. www. jmberlin.de. Lindenstr.

9-14. T: 030.25993300.

U Hallesches Tor, U Kochstraße. E4

Märkisches Museum Documents, photos, books, and weapons walk visitors through 750 years of Berlin history in a neo-

Homage to Roger Moore at the German Spy Museum (p. 40)

Gothic setting. To 25 Feb: Berlin 1937. In the Shadow of Tomorrow. Examining the false sense of normalcy Berlin felt in 1937, right before the Nazi seizure of power. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €6/4 (under-18s free; free entry first Wed of month). www.stadtmuseum.de. Am Köllnischen Park 5.

T: 030.24002162. U Märkisches Museum. F3

Martin-Gropius-Bau MUST SEE One of the city’s best art and photography exhibition spaces and an important example of early 20th-century architecture, the imposing building combines Italian Renaissance elements with local features, such as mosaics of allegorical figures. To 4 Mar: Jews, Christians and Muslims. In the Discourse of Sciences 500-1500.

Exploring how intellectual exchange thrived between the three cultures. Wed–Mon 10am–7pm.

Prices vary by exhibition. www.gropiusbau.de.

Niederkirchnerstr. 7. T: 030.254860.

U Kochstraße. E4

Menschen Museum The internationally popular touring exhibition Body Worlds showcased anatomist Gunther von Hagens’ plastination process, which preserves body parts and reveals their inner structures. The permanent Berlin exhibition shows 200 body parts amd 20 whole-body preparations, focusing on specific organs and diseases. Daily 10am–7pm. www.memu.berlin. Panoramaplatz 1. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Museum Berggruen MUST SEE A can’t-miss for Picassophiles. The Spanish painter is the star of this Charlottenburg museum, which boasts dozens of rooms filled with his paintings. The collection encompasses 75 years works by Matisse, Klee, Giacometti, Van Gogh, Cézanne, and many more. To 31 Mar: Mark Chagall: The Modernity of Decorativeness. A one room show of Chagall's innovationt date back to ancient times as well as games and ma in modern art, with photographs by Ulrike Kolb. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 1.

T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Museum of Photography Diverse and comprehesive exhibitions curated from the Berlin Art Library’s vast photographic collection are housed in a Neoclassical 1909 building built for the Prussian army’s officer corps, whose lower two floors are occupied by the Helmut Newton Foundation. From 9 Feb: Sigrid Neubert. Photographs: Architecture and Nature.

A retrospective showcasing Neubert's crisp and high-contrast images. To 13 May: Guy Bourdin.

Image Maker / Helmut Newton. A Gun for Hire / Angelo Marino. Another Story. The trio's legacy and mastery shown together for the first time. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Jebensstr. 2.

T: 030.266424242. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3–C4

For Explorers!

Museum für Naturkunde Home to the world’s largest dinosaur skeleton, the natural history museum also features extensive collections of shells, insects, and prize-winning mounted animal dioramas. To 29 Apr: Sielmann!

A focus on the lynx, wisent, and beaver, all native wildlife, to celebrate the legendary nature broadcaster Heinz Sielmann's would-be 100th birthday. Tue–Fri 9:30–6pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3. www.naturkundemuseum-berlin. Invalidenstr.

43. T: 030.20938591.

U Naturkundemuseum. E2

Trebbiner Str. 9, 10963 Berlin www.sdtb.de /deutschestechnikmuseum

www.wheretraveler.com 39

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

One of the best-known modern sculptors, Auguste Rodin, takes center stage at the Alte Nationalgalerie (p. 38) this winter. To celebrate the centenary of Rodin’s death, the special exhibition Rodin – Rilke – Hofmannsthal. Man and His Genius focuses on his small bronze sculpture, Man and his Genius, and its lasting impact. The winged genius appears in mid-flight retreating from the man, personifying the moment of inspiration hitting. And inspiring indeed was this sculpture! Rainer Maria Rilke and Hugo von Hofmannsthal, two literary figures from the turn of the century, were directly inspired by the bronze. Rilke’s poem Nike was written about the very sculpture, and Hofmannsthal commissioned a cast which sat on his desk, inspiring him through 20 years of writing. Until 18 March.

MUST SEE The 3300-year-old bust of Queen

Nefertiti is the museum’s top attraction. Examine a world-famous Egyptian collection that includes many important papyruses, while hundreds of artifacts relate early human history. Badly damaged during WWII and left abandoned until the 1980s, the museum reopened in 2009. To 4 Mar: Between Royal Graves and the Pawnshop. Max OhnefalscheRichter (1850-1917) and the Archaeology of Cyprus.

Commemorating the contributions of the forgotten archaeologist. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.neues-museum.de. Bodestr. 1-3.

T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Pergamon Museum One of Berlin’s main attractions, the Pergamon houses the outcome of Germany’s early-20thcentury archeology excavations. The imposing Ishtar Gate of Babylon with its glazed blue bricks Myletus, the reconstructed interiors of an Assyrian world. Altar room closed for restoration through 2019. From 26 Jan: Copy and Mastery. Miniature paintings and calligraphy of the Mogul Empire.

From 26 Jan: Perched. An installation from Felekan Onar. 27 glass swallows symbolize the situation of Syrian refugees in Istanbul. www.smb.museum.

Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242.

S Hackescher Markt. E3

The German Spy Museum Delve into the world of espionage with two floors of interactive exhibits covering some 3500 years of espionage history. Highlights include presentations on James Bond and other famous fictitious spies and a laser maze that tests your agility to break into – or out of – compromising locations. €12/8. Daily 10am-8pm. www.deutschesspionagemuseum.de. Leipziger Platz 9.

S+U Potsdamer Platz E3

ART GALLERIES Berlinische Galerie A modern art collection of 5000+ works of German and Eastern European paintings. To 30 Apr: Cyrill Lachauer. What Do You Want Here. Reconstructions and alternative realities from Lachauer's journey across the US. From 9 Feb: Eduardo Paolozzi. Lots of Pictures - Lots of Fun. Experimental works by the co-founder of British pop art. To 26 Feb: Monica Bonvicini. 3612,54 M³ VS 0,05 M³. Berlin's University of the Arts alum returns for her first solo exhibition.

Wed–Mon 10am–6pm. €8/5 (€10/7 during exhibitions). www.berlinischegalerie.de.

Alte Jakobstr. 124-128. T: 030.78902600.

U Hallesches Tor. E4

C/O Berlin MUST SEE Contemporary art and photography has finally reopened in the Amerika Haus, which housed the American library during the Cold War era. To 11 Mar: Torbjørn Rødland. Back in Touch.

Surreal dreams and imaginings extended into photographic reality. To 11 Mar: Joel Meyerowitz.

Why Color? Meyerowitz’s vintage color photographs presented together with his early black-and-white work. Daily 11am–8pm. €10/5. www.co-berlin.org Hardenbergstr. 22–24. T: 030.28444160.

S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Dalí – The Exhibition The permanent exhibit features more than 400 works, most from private collections, by 40 W H E R E B E R L I N I F E B R UA R Y 2018

the Surrealist painter, with a focus on drawing, illustration, and film. Dalí fans explore new perspectives of the artist’s life and work.

Daily noon–8pm (10am–8pm in summer). €12.50. www.daliberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 7. Toll number: 0700.3254237546. U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Deutsche Bank KunstHalle With an emphasis on paper and photography, the Deutsche Bank’s art collection is a stroll along the timeline of modern art. Every year, the bank pays tribute to young artists by organizing an international prize. To 25 Mar: Fahrelnissa.

A retrospective of Turkish modernist Zeid's work.

Daily 10am–8pm. €4/3. www.deutsche-bankkunsthalle.de. Unter den Linden 13/15.

T: 030.2020930. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Gemäldegalerie – Old Masters Painting Gallery MUST SEE One of the finest collections of European art from the 13th to the 18th centuries.

Lots of Dutch and Flemish painters, including Rembrandt and Vermeer, and a vast collection of Italian Renaissance art, including Botticelli, Titian, and Canaletto. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum.

Matthäikirchplatz 50. T: 030.266424242.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Georg-Kolbe-Museum An idyllic garden houses the former studio of German Secessionist artist Georg Kolbe, who used the human body as an expression of the human spirit, challenging the role of sculpture as a representation of mythological or heroic symbolism. The museum displays a wide selection of works and hosts frequent exhibitions. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3. www.georg-kolbe-museum. de. Sensburger Allee 25. T: 030.3042144. S Heerstraße. Off Map

Hamburger Bahnhof The permanent collection of this former railway station includes a selection of works from the Friedrich Christian Flick Collection, and the many temporary exhibitions focus on painting and sculpture from the past 50 years, as well as videos, music, and design. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €14/7. www.smb. museumInvalidenstr. 50-51. T: 030.266424242.

U Naturkundemuseum, S Hauptbahnhof. D2

me Collectors Room Thomas Olbricht created this space to bring together other international art collectors and to organize exhibitions, workshops, and concerts. The upper floor houses his “cabinet of curiosities.”

To 2 Apr: Indigenous Australia: Masterworks from the National Gallery of Australia. Presenting the traditional and modern works of Indigenous Australia. Tue–Sun noon–6pm. €7/4. www.me-berlin.com. Auguststr. 68.

T: 030.86008510. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Contemporary Art Galleries Circle Culture, to 10 Feb: Anneliese Schrenk: Portrait and Backroom. Gipsstr. 11. www.circleculture.com; Galerie Hunchentoot, to 10 Feb: Inken Reinert: Intecta. Program of Complete Room Design. Choriner Str. 8. www.galerie-hunchentoot.de; JRGallery, to 15 Feb: Mari Kim: Solo Exhibition. Goethestr. 8. www.jrgallery.de; Galerie Martin Mertens, to 17 Feb: Radu Belcin, Flavia Pitis. Linienstr. 148. www.martinmertens.com; Galerie Z22, to 17 Feb: Artwista Photo Challenge. Zähringerstr. 22. www.galerie-z22.com.

AUGUSTE RODINDER HELD (DER MENSCH UND SEIN GENIUS)UM 1896, GUSS 1900BRONZE, 39,5 X 16,5 X 17,5 CM© NATIONALGALERIE – STAATLICHE MUSEEN ZU BERLIN / ANDRES KILGER

Inspiration, Born

Neues Museum

THE GUIDE | DINING

Above left, and left: smoked ribs. Above right: a pulled pork sandwich, Carolina style. This photo: Blackbeards.

Finger-Lickin’ Good

© ISTOCK.; BLACKBEARDS: PHOTO BY DIRK TONN.

From smoky brisket to saucy ribs, Hilda Hoy feasted on the best American-style BBQ to be found in the city.

If there’s one thing American cuisine has long done well, it’s meat: hefty, hearty portions of it. Just look at the longestablished barbecue tradition across a wide swath of America’s South. From the wood-smoked brisket of Texas to the sticky ribs of Tennessee to the pulled pork sandwiches of Alabama, there are countless variations (not to mention fierce regional rivalries) across the so-called “barbecue belt” of the country. And thanks to a number of enterprising restaurateurs, many of these meaty delicacies can be feasted upon right here in Berlin.

The local forerunner was Big Stuff Smoked BBQ (Eisenbahnstr. 42–43, www.bigstuff.de), which opened in 2012 inside Kreuzberg’s Markthalle Neun with an enormous meat smoker imported all the way from Tennessee.

Grab a seat at one of the picnic tables scattered around the market hall to chow down on the

Big Stuff specialties, wood-smoked pork shoulder pulled apart and stuffed in a soft bun, or fall-apart-tender beef brisket smothered in zesty BBQ sauce. The owners have since added a Big Stuff bar serving Italian-inspired cocktails, a worthy accompaniment to every meat feast.

With a similar setup on the other end of the city is Pignut BBQ, an Alabama-style barbecue joint housed inside the Arminius market hall in Moabit (Arminiussstr. 2, www.pignut.de). It’s well worth the trip slightly off the beaten tourist track to sample Pignut’s delectable assortment of ribs, brisket, pulled pork, and chicken, all incredibly tender and rich with the scent of proper hickory smoke. Choose from sides of coleslaw, fries, beans, and mac & cheese, plus a solid selection of American craft beers or indulgent milkshakes to wash it all down. Closer to the heart of town is Pignut’s recently opened second location on the 6th-floor food hall of the KaDeWe

(Tauentzienstr. 21-24).

The Texan owner of The Pit (Reichenberger Str. 120, www.thepitberlin.com) sticks close to tradition and keeps the menu simple to focus on quality, not quantity. Hunks of beef brisket are seasoned with nothing but salt and pepper before being smoked for 18 hours over oak logs in a massive smoker imported from Texas.

The result is buttery-soft meat, served in slabs with essential sides like saucy beans, tangy coleslaw, and cornbread. Come by on Wednesdays to indulge in The Pit’s ribs.

Prenzlauer Berg’s Blackbeards (Pappelallee 55, www.blackbeards.berlin) is one of the relative newcomers on the scene, but quickly shot to the top of many connoisseurs’ lists.

Not only do they do a mean pulled pork and ribs, but also round out the menu with chicken wings, a range of burgers, Philly cheesesteak, and custom cocktails. Come hungry and leave happy. www.wheretraveler.com 41

DINING

DINING KEY Alc (à la carte): Prices are per person for three courses (excl. drinks) €: under €15. €€: €15–€40. €€€: €40–€80. €€€€: over €80. Restaurants listed in Fine Dining have at least one Michelin star. Letter/ number codes correspond to map at back of book.

Recommended by Die Goldenen Schlüssel Deutschland e.V./U.I.C.H. Les Clefs d’Or.

FINE DINING For a complete list of Berlin's Michelin-starred restaurants, visit wheretraveler.com/berlin.

5 – Cinco by Paco Pérez Catalan star chef Paco Pérez’s very first endeavor outside Spain is this Michelin-starred restaurant in Das Stue Hotel. His aim is to tickle all five senses with avant-garde taste experiences that take full advantage of the flavors and ingredients of his home country. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.5-cinco.com. Drakestr. 1.

T: 030.3117220. S Tiergarten. C3

Experience selected Szechuan and Cantonese foods in modern ambience The best Peking duck in town Am Kupfergraben 4 / 4A 10117 Berlin daily opened 12:00-23:00

Reservation: 030 - 200 595 00 www.restaurant-jolly.de

Facil Situated in a glass atrium of The Mandala Hotel and ringed by the courtyard’s trees, Facil has mastered understated elegance in both its décor and cuisine. Double-Michelin-starred chef Michael Kempf is particularly masterful with seafood when creating his fine menus. €€€€. Mon–Fri L&D. www.facil.de. Potsdamer Str. 3.

T: 030.590051234. S Potsdamer Platz. D3

Fischers Fritz Pure, straightforward luxury is the formula at this restaurant in the Regent Berlin Hotel. One of just a handful of Berlin restaurants to earn two Michelin stars, Fischers Fritz will not fail to impress with its elevated cuisine and finely honed service. €€€€.

Daily B, humuD. www.fischersfritzberlin.com.

Charlottenstr. 49. T: 030.20336363.

U Französische Straße. E3

Horváth Austria-born chef Sebastian Frank built a reputation – and earned a Michelin star – with his highly creative, oftentimes minimalist use of seasonal ingredients, from sunchokes to candied parsley root to spruce needles. Wooden interior and lovely outdoor patio. €€€. Wed–Sun D. www.restaurant-horvath.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 44a.

T: 030.61289992. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Since 1779, HABEL am Reichstag has stood for a timeless idea: the union of choice wines and satisfying regional cuisine in an atmosphere that is both homey and uncomplicated. A place in the new and old heart of the city for locals and visitors to come together. The wine bar is characterized by local specialties and the cuisine by classic and refined combinations. In addition to the restaurant, there are also event spaces for up to 300 guests. With centuries of moving history, HABEL and the capital city are a true Berlin tradition.

See you soon in HABEL am Reichstag!

Luisenstraße 19 · 10117 Berlin www.wein-habel.de Tel.: +49 30 28 09 84 84 Mon – Sat 7 am – 12 pm, Sun 7 am – 12 am 42 W H E R E B E R L I N I F E B R UA R Y 2018

Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer

Indian Cuisine

The Hotel Adlon restaurant boasts two Michelin stars and a well-earned spot in the upper echelon of Berlin’s finest restaurants. No detail is spared in the creation of an unforgettable dining experience. €€€€. Wed–Sat D. www.lorenzadlonesszimmer.de. Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2661196.

S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Pauly Saal The chic, hip décor is matched by a menu of equally creative German cuisine, which was awarded a Michelin star in 2013. Meat dishes made from local game are a highlight. €€€. Daily L&D, closed Sun and Mon. www.paulysaal.com.

Auguststr. 11–13. T: 030.33006070. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Reinstoff Chef Daniel Achilles didn’t earn two Michelin stars by playing it safe. The two nightly dinner menus at Reinstoff – one focused on regional tastes, the other incorporating influences from farther afield – are successful experiments in exciting, avant-

RESTAURANT | BAR | CLUB | EVENTS

garde cuisine. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.reinstoff.eu. Schlegelstr. 26c.

T: 030.30881214. U Naturkundemuseum, S Nordbahnhof. E2

Rutz Wine bar, wine shop, and restaurant in one, Rutz offers perfectly paired meals by Chef Marco Müller, whose six-, eight-, and 10-course “Inspiration Menus” combine simple yet diverse ingredients into creative taste sensations. €€€€.

Tue–Sun D. www.rutz-weinbar.de. Chausseestr. 8.

T: 030.24628760. U Oranienburger Tor. E4

Skykitchen Part of the andel’s Hotel, Skykitchen brings a welcome touch of luxury to the Lichtenberg district and was accordingly crowned with a Michelin star in 2014. Try chef Alexander Koppe’s four-course “From Berlin to the Sea” regional menu for modern takes on traditional favorites. €€€. Tue–Sat D. www.vi-hotels.com. Landsberger Allee 106.

T: 030.4530532620. S Landsberger Allee. H2

Tim Raue From his humble beginnings growing up in Kreuzberg, Tim Raue has become one of the bestknown culinary names in Berlin. Plumbing the Far East for inspiration, his namesake restaurant serves refined interpretations of Asian cuisine, such as his famed personal take on Peking duck. €€€€.

Tue–Sat L&D. www.tim-raue.com. Rudi-DutschkeStr. 26. T: 030.25937930. U Kochstraße. E4

Open daily: Monday to Friday: 12.00 - 23.00 CET Saturday and Sunday: 18.00 - 23.00 CET Make your Reservation: Tel. 030 / 278 909 95 55 www.the-grand-berlin.com

ASIAN Gagans Indian. Just a five-minute walk from the Kurfürstendamm shopping boulevard, Gagans serves delicious North Indian specialties every day of the week, including daily lunch specials and a plentiful all-you-can-eat buffet on Sundays.

A highlight are the sizzling meat dishes roasted the traditional way in a clay tandoor oven. €€.

Daily L&D. www.gagans.de. Uhlandstr. 149. T: 030 37470302. U Spichernstraße. B4–C4.

India Club Indian. Just steps away from the Brandenburg

Gate is this luxurious hideaway for high-end North Indian cuisine, boasting an ambience that is both elegant and colorful. A renowned chef flown in from New Delhi lends his masterful touch to the menu of extravagantly spiced specialties. €€€.

Daily D. www.india-club-berlin.com. Behrenstr. 72.

T: 030.20628610. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Jolly Chinese. Just across the water from Museum Island, Jolly’s location couldn’t be better for a tasty Chinese meal in between sightseeing stops. Bring an appetite to try as many of the steamed dim sum dumplings as possible before moving on to the menu’s extensive variety of Sichuan-style and Cantonese dishes. Traditional Peking duck is the house specialty. €€. Daily L&D. www.restaurantjolly.de. Am Kupfergraben 4–4a. T: 030.20059500.

S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

0

Servus Bavaria!

Delicious german food and drinks at Maximilians.

Kushinoya Japanese. This upscale Japanese restaurant makes

fried finger-food taste gourmet. The specialty is kushiage, skewers of delicate morsels like steak cubes, quail eggs, or shiitake mushroom caps that are lightly breaded and fried using a special nongreasy technique. www.kushinoya.de. Bleibtreustr. 6.

T: 030.31809897. S Savignyplatz. B4

Friedrichstraße 185–190 maximilians-berlin.de

www.wheretraveler.com 43

DINING Spindler & Klatt Asian-European fusion. Restaurant, lounge, and

club in one, Spindler & Klatt makes full use of its prime river location. In the summer, the waterside terrace is a memorable spot to enjoy the menu of Pan-Asian dishes, from fine sushi to sizzling tuna steaks and dry-aged Irish steaks hot off the grill. On Fridays and Saturdays, the spot transforms into a club from 23pm. €€€. Daily D. www.spindlerklatt. com. Köpenicker Str. 16–17. T: 030 319881860.

U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Transit Asian Fusion. The long menu of tapas-style Thai and Indonesian dishes, each just a few euros, allows diners to cobble together a meal encompassing a wide range of tastes and ingredients. Other location in Rosenthaler Str. 68. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.transit-restaurants. com. Sonntagstr. 28. T: 030.26948415. S Ostkreuz. Off Map

FRENCH Duke Restaurant French. The Ellington Hotel’s restaurant is all about French haute cuisine with modern, creative twists.

Both the à la carte options and the menu of monthly specials illustrate the restaurant’s dedication to top-quality meat, seafood, and regional produce. €€€. Mon–Sat L&D. www.duke-restaurant.com.

Nürnberger Str. 50-55. T: 030.683154000.

U Augsburger Straße. C4

Paris Bar French. Many celebrities – including

painstakingly restored after WWII. Today, it’s a canal-side restaurant serving elevated German cuisine created from the finest regional ingredients. €€–€€€. Tues–Sat D. www.altes-zollhaus-berlin.de.

Carl-Herz-Ufer 30. T: 030.6923300.

U Prinzenstraße. E4

Madonna, Sophia Loren, and Robert De Niro – have patronized this West Berlin institution over the years. The Borchardt bistro-style menu includes French German/French. A favorite classics like oysters and steak-frites, hobnobbing spot of the rich and though the legend alone is enough famous, Borchardt is popular for to draw guests. €€€. both its food (especially the Berliner Weisse is a pale Daily L&D. www.parisbar.net. schnitzel) as well as the opportunity ale brewed only in the Kantstr. 152. T: 030.3138052. capital and usually to see and be seen. €€. Daily L&D. served with a shot of S Savignyplatz. C4 www.borchardt-restaurant.de. syrup.

Französische Str. 47. T: 030.81886262.

U Französische Straße. E3

GERMAN/AUSTRIAN AIGNER am Gendarmenmarkt

Austrian/German. The Mitte restaurant boasts

an elegant interior and a view on stately Gendarmenmarkt. Styled after Vienna's famed coffeehouses, AIGNER adds a local touch with dishes like Brandenburg roast duck. €€€. Daily L&D. www. aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de. Französischestr. 25 T: 030.203751850. U Französische Straße. E3

Altes Zollhaus German. This quaint, cottage-style building

was first constructed in the late 1800s, when it served as a tollhouse for passing steamboats, then

Hofbräuhaus German. An Oktoberfest atmosphere for the

whole family 365 days a year. This restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner in typical Bavarian style, alongside live music, waiters in traditional costume, and the traditional Hofbräu beer, brewed in Munich since the 1700s. Expect dumplings and roasted ham hock at their popular Sunday brunch. €. www.hofbraeu-wirtshaus.de. Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 30.

T: 030 679665520. U + S Alexanderplatz. F2

The Grand German. The sophisticated supper club, with origins reaching back to 1842, boasts an American grill that makes its international array of steaks among the best in town. The upstairs lounge attracts a decadent late-night scene. €€€. Mon–Fri L, Daily D. www.thegrand-berlin.com. Hirtenstraße 4. T: 030.278909555.

Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Grill Royal German/French. A beloved destination of

Mitte’s well-dressed creative scenesters.

There’s more to the menu than just grilled meat, though the steaks are indeed excellent. Lobster cocktail, ceviche, and oysters are just a few other additions to the fine menu. €€€. Daily D. www.grillroyal.com. Friedrichstr. 105b.

T: 030.28879288. S Friedrichstraße. E3

Jolesch

For a memorable date on Valentine’s Day – or any other day, for that matter – look no further than Coda, a chic, stylish dessert bar that is sure to shatter any and all dessert preconceptions you may have. Chef René Frank was the head pâtissier at a tripleMichelin-starred restaurant before venturing out on his own, and his expertise shows in every striking, artfully plated dish served at Coda. Each presents not only sweetness, but complex, harmonious flavor palettes incorporating such varied ingredients as beets, olives, roasted chicory, parsley, even pungent Alpine cheese. Each dish can be ordered à la carte or as part of a three-, four-, or six-course tasting menu. Be sure not to pass up the cocktail pairing, which is one of the most unique aspects of the Coda concept: Every dish on the menu is devised together with a drink that complements and highlights its flavor elements. Lambrusco wine with a hint of smoky single-malt whisky, for example, to go with a composition of plum sorbet with bitter chocolate, or a sherry-oolong tea cocktail to be sipped alongside a dessert symphony of candied eggplant, pecan ice cream, and balsamic reduction.

Friedelstr. 47. T: 030 91496396. www.coda-berlin.com

44 W H E R E B E R L I N I F E B R UA R Y 2018

Käfer Dachgarten-Restaurant of the German Bundestag German. The Reichstag is for more than sightseeing.

Thanks to the culinary team behind Käfer, it’s also a fine dining destination. On the roof of the famed landmark, Käfer boasts splendid views and refined, modern German cuisine. Advance reservations required. Due to security precautions, each guest must provide official photo I.D. upon entry. €€€.

Daily B, L, D. www.feinkost-kaefer.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030 2262990. U Bundestag, S Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3.

Maximilians German. Maximilians recreates the feel of a cozy Bavarian beer hall with hearty food and plentiful beer. Meaty specialties include pork knuckle served with dumplings and sauerkraut, freshly baked pretzels, and the tempting “Munich sausage parade.” From the four kinds of Paulaner beer on tap to the warm hospitality, Maximilians goes

PHOTO BY JULIA SCHMIDT

A Sweet Finish

Austrian. The dining room is elegant yet understated and this Austrian restaurant divides its menu into two sections: “modern” and “classic.” The former means creations like smoked veal tartare with elderflower; the latter refined renditions of home-style dishes like Tafelspitz beef or schnitzel. €€. Daily L&D. www.jolesch.de. Muskauer Str. 1. T: 030.6123581.

U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

to great lengths to transport a piece of Bavaria to the heart of Mitte. €–€€. Daily L&D. www. maximiliansrestaurant.de. Friedrichstr. 185–190.

T: 030.20450559. U Stadtmitte. E3

More

W I RT S H AU S BERLIN

German. A stylish, design-oriented spot in

the bustling Nollendorfplatz neighborhood, More’s specialty is modern German cuisine with international influences. Classics like schnitzel and Königsberger Klopse meatballs are equally as delicious as fusion-style options such as salmon tartare with avocado and wasabi, or softly braised octopus with lime. €€. Daily L&D. www.more-berlin. de. Motzstr. 28. T: 030.23635702. C4

Nante Eck German. With delightful dishes from Berlin’s

traditional cuisine and a menu that changes every month, the Nante Eck restaurant offers a refined cuisine made with fresh local ingredients.

Specialties include extra-big currywurst and Flammkuchen pies. Very long beer menu. €. Daily L&D. www.nante-eck.de. Unter den Linden 35.

T: 030.22487257. U Französische Straße. F2

Neumond German. The sight of Neumond’s historic and

refined counter is a hint at the restaurant’s simple elegance – in both interior design and menu, which includes a vast selection of courses; classics and specials. And for everyone with a sweet tooth: There’s a white chocolate mousse on the dessert menu. To top it all off: A bar with a variety of drinks to choose from. Borsigstr. 28, Mitte. Daily L and Tue-Sun D. www.office@neumond-restaurant.de.

T: 030.2857505. S Nordbahnhof. E2

Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 30 10178 Berlin Tel.: 030 679665520

www.berlin-hofbraeu.de

Restauration 1840 German. An elegant, old-timey restaurant

decorated in the style of Berlin’s Golden 1920s.

Think curved brick ceilings and lots of warm wood everywhere, plus an outdoor terrace. The menu: classic German meets modern European. €€. Daily.

B, L, D. www.berlin-1840.de. Am Zwirngraben 10. T: 030.24727401. S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

Rotisserie Weingrün German/European. Overlooking the canal on

the southern edge of Museum Island, this elegant-casual restaurant is a favorite of many local gastronomes. The highlight is the huge, upright flame grill, which prepares steaks, ribs, pork belly, and rotisserie chicken to perfection. Try the octopus salad or flambéed salmon for a special treat. €€–€€€. Mon–Sat D. www.rotisserieweingruen.de. Gertraudenstr. 10. T: 030.20621900.

U Spittelmarkt. F3.

ITALIAN Barist Italian. Healthful, filling breakfasts, quick business lunches, happy-hour cocktails, and dinner with friends in the red-bricked arches under the trains at S Hackescher Markt station. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.barist.de. Am Zwirngraben 13. T: 030.24722613. S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

Bocca di Bacco Italian. This high-level restaurant offers

modern Italian cuisine prepared with top-quality ingredients, accompanied by an excellent selection of wines. Contemporary furnishings and an elegant atmosphere. www. boccadibacco.de. €€–€€€. Daily L&D. Friedrichstr.

167-168. T: 030.20672828. U Französische Straße. E3 www.wheretraveler.com 45

DINING I Due Forni Italian. The atmosphere in this pizza hall is raucous and the service notoriously surly, but that doesn’t keep the pizza-loving crowds at bay. The generously sized and traditional-style thin-crust concoctions are famed around the city. €. Daily L&D. Schönhauser Allee 12. T: 030.44017333.

U Senefelderplatz. F2

MIDDLE EASTERN Glass Modern Arabic. A 2013 addition to the west-end

gourmet scene, Glass is the baby of Israeli chef Gal Ben Moshe. Guests in the sleek, modern space get wowed with an innovative tasting menu that does magical things with traditional Arabic ingredients like preserved lemon, sumac, and lamb. €€€. Daily D, closed Sun–Mon. www.glassberlin.de. Uhlandstr. 195.

T: 030.54710861. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

OTHER Grand Rocka International. Inside, the restaurant takes over the historic arched space under S Hackescher Markt station, featuring a grand old wooden bar that lives up to the restaurant’s name, and out front, the terrace spills out across the busy Platz. The large international menu ranges from steaks to pizzas to burgers. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.grandrocka.de. Am Zwirngraben 6–7. T: 030.24638606. F2

Golvet Modern European. With its spacious terrace, classy lounge, and sweeping cityscape views, Golvet is much more than a restaurant – it's also a prime spot for taking in the sunset with an aperitif in hand.

The ambiance of sleek Nordic-inspired style pairs perfectly with the menu of high-end European fusion dishes €€. Tues–Sat D. www.golvet.de. Potsdamer Str. 58, 8th floor. T: 030.89064222. S Tiergarten. D4

Vivolo Olé Spanish. Authentic Spanish cuisine at Hackescher Markt, including a wide selection of tapas, paellas, grilled meats and fresh fish dishes. Vegetarian and vegan options available. www.vivolo.de. Am Zwirngraben 11-12. T: 030.24631933.

S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

Wilson's – The Prime Rib Restaurant American. Juicy, high-quality meats cooked the American way and served with salads, potatoes and extravagant desserts. €€€. www.restaurant-wilsons. de. Crowne Plaza Berlin City Centre. Nürnberger Str. 65. T: 030.21007000. U Augsburger Straße. C4

VEGETARIAN Cookies Cream Vegetarian. A whole new kind of vegetarian

dining. First, there’s getting there, which feels more like going to an underground club than a restaurant. Then there’s the food, vegetarian eating gone haute cuisine, thanks to celebrity chef Stephan Hentschel. €€–€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.cookiescream.com. Behrenstr. 55.

T: 030.27492940. U Französische Straße. E3

Lucky Leek Vegetarian. It’s not luck that makes Lucky Leek so good, but rather a dedication to creating top-notch gourmet cuisine that is also 100-percent vegan and incorporates international tastes. The small but comprehensive menu changes regularly. €€. Wed– Sun D. www.lucky-leek.de. U Senefelderplatz. F2

46 W H E R E B E R L I N I F E B R UA R Y 2018

TOP LEFT: © JAN WINDSZUS, COURTESY OF KOMISCHE OPER BERLIN; ALL OTHER IMAGES: © IKO FREESE, DRAMABERLIN.DE.

THE GUIDE | ENTERTAINMENT

Fiddler On The Roof Solveig Steinhardt went to the Komische Oper to see Koen Schoots’ and Barrie Kosky’s new rendition of one of the world’s most successful musicals.

"A fiddler on the roof. Sounds crazy, no?

But here, in our little village of Anatevka, you might say every one of us is a fiddler on the roof trying to scratch out a pleasant, simple tune without breaking his neck." More than half a century has passed since Jerry Bock and Joseph Stein turned the stories of Tevje the Milkman by Sholem Aleichem into the Broadway success Fiddler on the Roof, but the show's appeal still seems indestructible. Combining great songs and exciting choreography with the fairytalelike atmospheres of the now-extinct world of the Jewish village, or shtetl, this musical comedy recounts the joys and struggles of a community whose only weapons against poverty and persecution have always been tradition and a massive amount of humor.

To be fair, this season's production of Fiddler

on the Roof, playing at Komische Oper, is a tiny bit different from its Broadway original. Barrie Kosky, the opera house's eclectic art director, who brought the piece back to the theater's stage after 30 years, chose to produce the show's German version, called Anatevka.

Non-German speakers should not worry, however! Not only is each chair equipped with a super-technological surtitling screen in various languages, but the German version, translated almost word by word, is just as powerful as the original one – with the added advantage of sounding even more like Yiddish than the Germanized English accent normally used in the Broadway show.

Anatevka/Fiddler on the Roof is about the daily headaches of Tevje, played by Mark Hopp, who uses the help of matchmaker Jente to find good husbands for his three

eldest daughters, each of whom seems unwilling to follow the longstanding tradition of arranged weddings. Songs like If I Were A Rich Man, Tradition, and Matchmaker, performed with a full orchestra, express all of the show's most important themes, from poverty to the conflict between the desire to obey tradition and the need to keep up with the modern and secular influences of the contemporary world. The story's almost magical bliss is occasionally interrupted by violent encounters with the Russian villagers – a reality check for the audience, lest we think that shtetl life was all wedding celebrations, shabbat dinners, hora dance, and Yiddish jokes.

Anatevka/Fiddler On The Roof is performing on 20, 21 February. www.komische-oper-berlin.de www.wheretraveler.com 47

ENTERTAINMENT

BALLET & OPERA Deutsche Oper A 1960s décor-free box of acoustic magic. Director and conductor Donald Runnicles puts together rich programs with lots of Verdi, Rossini, and Mozart. 3 Feb: Salome (Strauss). 4, 10 Feb: Carmen (Bizet). 8 Feb: Tosca (Puccini). 9, 17 Jan: Così fan tutte (Mozart). 11, 12, 15 Feb: Il Trovatore (Verdi).

21, 24 Feb: L’Arlesiana (concert version) (Cilea).

23 Feb: The Magic Flute (Mozart). 25 Feb: Madame Butterfly (Puccini). www.deutscheoperberlin.de.

T: 030.34384343. U Deutsche Oper. B3

von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Konzerthaus This charismatic 1821 concert hall is the base theater of the Konzerthausorchester, but other orchestras and soloists grace its stage regularly.

2–3 Feb: Konzerthausorchester Berlin (cond.

Sado), plays Elgar and Bernstein. 16, 18 Feb: Konzerthausorchester (cond. Fischer), plays Arvo Part. 24 Feb: Konzerthausorchester (cond.

K. Järvi), in Nordic Pulse. www.konzerthaus.de.

Gendarmenmarkt. T: 030.203092101.

U Hausvogteiplatz. E3

Komische Oper

CLASSICAL CONCERTS Berliner Dom

Berlin’s main cathedral presents a plethora of sacred music concerts year round. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten.

T: 030.20269136.

S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Hochschule für Musik Hans Eisler One of Berlin’s most prestigious music academies.

Its students are members of important orchestras, choirs, and bands, and the stage presents hundreds of concerts every year – many of which are free. www.hfm-berlin.de. Charlottenstr. 55.

T: 030.688305700.

U Stadtmitte. E3

Chamber Music Hall of the Philharmonie Part of the Philharmonie, this concert hall presents daily chamber-music concerts and free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays. 11, 18 Feb: The Philharmonic Salon. 25 Feb: The 12 violas of the Berliner Philharmoniker play Verdi, Rossini, Piazzolla, and more. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de. Herbert48 W H E R E B E R L I N I F E B R UA R Y 2018

DANCE AND EXPERIMENTAL SPACES Dock 11 Studios & Eden Avant-garde dance shows and contemporary performances inside an old factory. Two locations, one in Prenzlauer Berg, one in Pankow. www. dock11-berlin.de. Dock 11 Studios: Kastanienallee 79. T: 030.4481222. U Eberswalder Straße, Rosenthaler Platz. F2; Eden Studios: Breite Str. 43 (Pankow). T: 030.35120312. S+U Pankow. Off Map

HAU (Hebbel am Ufer) Cutting-edge shows and hip performances at this off-theater and cultural point. www.hebbel-amufer.de. Stresemannstr. 29; Tempelhofer Ufer 10; Hallesches Ufer 32. T: 030.2590040.

U Hallesches Tor. E4

Radialsystem V Once a turn-of-the-century pumping station for

Lights...

Camera...Berlin!

A city with as much history as Berlin makes for a perfect backdrop to some memorable movies. From classics to recent Hollywood blockbusters, here are some must-see German and English films, from oldest to newest, that star Berlin.

BERLIN: SYMPHONY OF A GREAT CITY (1927) This black-and-white beauty of a silent film depicts a day in the life of a bygone Berlin – a must-see for history fans.

CABARET (1972) This cinematic classic starring Liza Minnelli, depicting the famous era of swinging 1930s Berlin as the Nazis were rising to power, was filmed in both the capital and southern Germany.

WINGS OF DESIRE (1987) This gloomily beautiful love story by German heavyweight director Wim Wenders is like an ode to West Berlin. One iconic scene features the main character atop the Siegessäule column in Tiergarten.

RUN LOLA RUN (1998) This runaway (pun intended) international success takes its viewers on a heartthumping sprint all over town. One key location: the red-bricked Oberbaum Bridge.

THE BOURNE SUPREMACY (2004) Trained assassin Jason Bourne is chased all over the city in this thriller. Look for major cameos by the Friedrichstraße S-Bahn bridge and Alexanderplatz, for example.

THE LIVES OF OTHERS (2006) This Oscar winner does a stellar job illustrating life in East Berlin, with scenes shot in the former Stasi headquarters in Lichtenberg and the Volksbühne theater in Mitte, for example.

© ISTOCK

Philharmonie Young and daring opera productions won this The iconic concert venue is home to the acclaimed theater the title of Opera House of the Year 2013.

Berliner Philharmoniker, currently led by Sir Australian intendant Barrie Kosky is also the Simon Rattle, but also hosts other ensembles and artistic director of some of the performances, soloists. Free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays 1pm. with mesmerizing results. 1, 10, 18 Feb: The Branded (Schreker). 2, 16, 22, 25 Feb: Don Giovanni 1–3 Feb: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond.

Slobodeniouk) perform Schumann and Bruckner.

(Mozart). 3 Feb: Ball of the Komische Oper 4 Feb: Ton Koopman plays the organ. 5 Feb: Berlin. 4, 13, 15, 24 Feb: Die Perlen der Cleopatra Andras Schiff plays Schumann, Mozart, (Straus). 9, 14, 17 Feb: Xerxes (Händel).

Brahms, Bach. 8–10 Feb: The Berliner 11 Feb: Snow White and the 77 Dwarves Philharmoniker and Leonidas (Kats-Chernin). 20, 21 Feb: Anatevka Kavakos perform Berg and (Bock). 23 Feb: Symphony concert 4 Dvorak. 22–24 Feb: The Berliner (Souza/Lozakovich). www.komischePhilharmoniker (cond. Barenboim) The first set of traffic oper-berlin.de. Behrensstr. 55-57. performs Berg and Bartok. lights in Europe was T: 030.47997400. U Französische www.berliner-philharmoniker. installed in 1924 on Straße. E3 de. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1.

Potsdamer Platz.

T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Staatsoper Unter Den Linden Platz. D3 Berlin's historic opera house reopened in 2017 after lengthy renovations. Barenboim's Pierre Boulez Saal perfect productions range from Baroque operas Berlin’s newest concert hall is part of the to contemporary premieres. 2 Feb: Don Giovanni Barenboim-Said Akademie, an institution (Mozart). 4, 7, 10, 14, 17 Feb: La Traviata (Verdi). dedicated to bringing together talented young 24 Feb: Die Zauberflöte (Mozart). www.staatsopermusicians from Arab, Israeli, and Christian berlin.de. T: 030.2035540. Unter den Linden 7. backgrounds. A unique, modern design by the U Alexanderplatz. E3 venerable Frank Gehry design ensures stunning acoustics, and co-founder Daniel Barenboim Staatsballett makes regular appearances on stage.

Berlin’s ballet company currently performs at various locations. 1,2 Feb: Les Ballets de Monte-Carlo: www.boulezsaal.de. Französische Str. 33D. T: 030 47997411. U Französische Straße. E3 Cinderella (Maillot/Prokofieff) at Deutsche Oper.

3, 9 Feb: Giselle at Staatsoper Unter den Linden.

Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin 5 Feb: Duato/Shechter at Komische Oper. 16, 18, Injecting new expression into 19th- and 20th20, 22 Feb: Don Quixote (Minkus) at Komische century classical works under the lead of Marek Oper. www.staatsballett-berlin.de.

Janowski, the oldest German radio orchestra with T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3 its 103 members has won a place in the top tier of European concert orchestras. www.rsb-online.de.

Tickets: 030.20298715.

ENTERTAINMENT

Sophiensaele Choreographer Sasha Waltz’s center for avantgarde dance, contemporary theater (mainly in German), music, and experimental performance artists. www.sophiensaele.com. Sophienstr. 18.

T: 030.2835266. U Weinmeisterstraße, S Hackescher Markt, S Oranienburger Straße. E2

MOVIE THEATERS CinemaxX Potsdamer Platz Multiplex cinema. Most of the movies are screened in their original language, with or without subtitles. www.cinemaxx.de. Potsdamer Str. 5.

T: 040.80806969. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Cinestar Sony Center The latest Hollywood blockbusters, in English, every day. www.cinestar.de. Potsdamer Str. 4.

T: 030.26066400. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Odeon

Diana Krall. Daily from 8pm, free entry Sunday after 10:30pm. www.a-trane.de. Pestalozzistr. 105.

T: 030.3132550.

S Savignyplatz. B3/B4

Columbiahalle/C-Halle The multi-function event space hosts some of today’s most popular pop and rock acts. www.columbia-theater.de. Columbiadamm 13-21.

T: 030.69812814. U Platz der Luftbrücke. E5

Estrel Festival Center Berlin Enjoy an evening with the world’s top look-andsound-alike artists and taste a three-course dinner during Stars In Concert, a live performance of legends like Elvis, Abba, Johnny Cash, Buddy Holly, and more. www.stars-in-concert.de.

Wed–Sat 8:30pm, Sun 7pm. Sonnenallee 225. €20, from €60 with dinner. Off Map

KulturBrauerei The early-1900s brewery complex now houses various restaurants and art spaces, with a rich combination of programs, as well as a very popular street-food market most Sundays. www.kulturbrauerei.de. Schönhauser Allee 36.

T: 030.44352614. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin

ROCK, POP, JAZZ

A massive arena for world-touring pop concerts and sports events, including those of Berlin’s professional ice hockey team, the Eisbären.

16, 17 Feb: Night of the Jumps 2018. 23 Feb: Lady Gaga. 27 Feb: The Killers in concert. www. mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de. Mühlenstr. 12–30.

T: 030.2060708899. U Warschauer Straße. G4

A-Trane

Tempodrom

Since 1992, this intimately sized but important venue (it was named Best German Jazzclub in 2011) has welcomed both emerging and A-list talent, including Wynton Marsalis, Herbie Hancock, and

This large concert building resembling a circus tent – and situated on the former grounds of the now-gone Anhalter Bahnhof – hosts an array of events, from classical concerts and pop-rock

This old-school single-screen cinema was Berlin’s first English-language theater and still screens both cult movies and new releases. Hauptstr. 116.

T: 030.78704019. S Schöneberg. C5

Go Gaga Her 2008 dance-pop debut album including the single Poker Face took the world by storm and her half-time performance at the Super Bowl this year was the most viewed musical event in history. If you missed her before, don’t make the same mistake again as Lady Gaga comes to the Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin on her Lady Gaga Joanne World Tour, continuing to churn out international charttopping hits and dazzling audiences with her elaborate costumes and provocative visuals. 23 February. www.mercedes-benzarena-berlin.de

50 W H E R E B E R L I N I F E B R UA R Y 2018

productions to mixed martial arts and dance.

21 Feb–4 Mar: Holiday on Ice. www.tempodrom. de. Möckernstr. 10. Toll number: 0186.554111.

S Anhalter Bahnhof. E4

THEATER, CABARET & MUSICALS Admiralspalast One of Berlin’s few preserved pre-WWII variety venues offers an international, high-caliber program of musicals, cabaret, and concerts in an elegant hall from the 1920s. 1–10 Feb: Rocky Horror Show. www.admiralspalast.de. Friedrichstr. 101.

T: 030.47997499. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Bar Jeder Vernunft A 1912 tent housing song-and-dance shows, comedy, and cabaret. Many shows in German only. www.bar-jeder-vernunft.de. Schaperstr. 24.

T: 030.8831582. U Spichernstraße. C4

Blue Man Group The unmistakable Blue Man Group has its own permanent theater, the Bluemax Theater, where the blue-domed performers present an energetic combination of music, art, pantomime, and comedy. The few spoken words are in English.

Shows take place almost every night. Check website for info. www.stage-entertainment.de.

Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Chamäleon Variete An old ballroom where audiences can experience a young genre that mixes acrobatics with music, dance, and visual arts. All month: Parade: Fear Love Circus. www.chamaeleonberlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 40/41. T: 030.4000590. S Hackescher Markt. E2

Friedrichstadt-Palast Berlin MUST SEE With the biggest stage in the world, this is Berlin's most spectacular theater and a must-see acccording to The New York Times. Take in special effects and glitzy Vegas-style live shows.

All month: The One Grand Show, with 100 artists and acrobats, is a dreamlike journey through time in search of the one we love. www.palast.berlin Friedrichstr. 107. T: 030.23262326.

U Friedrichstraße. E3

Madi / Zelt der Sinne A cabaret tent offering shows and events inspired by the Arabian Nights, with dinner. www.madi-zelt. de. Bernhard Lichtenberg Platz 1. T: 030.43004272.

U Friedrichstraße. E3

Quatsch Comedy Club This popular club hosts frequent stand-up comedy shows and a regular English-language night. www.quatschcomedyclub.de. Friedrichstr. 107. Toll number: 01806.999000969. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Tipi am Kanzleramt The big tent in the Tiergarten has a vast program of musicals, magic, cabaret, dance, and theater.

Many shows are in German. www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de. Große Querallee.

T: 030.39066550. U Bundestag. D3

Wintergarten Varieté This sumptuous variety theater that has earned a reputation for its revitalized Vaudeville-inspired productions, as well as world-famous acts.

Until 18 Feb: Sayonara Tokyo. From 21 Feb: Take it easy! Hits and acrobatics. www.wintergarten-berlin. de. Potsdamer Str. 96. T: 030.588433.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

LADY GAGA, PHOTO BY MICHAEL SPENCER, THE MONSTER BALL TOUR, BURSWOOD DOME PERTH, CC BY 2.0.

the Berlin Water Services, this creative space is now a cultural center and idea factory that hosts performances of all kinds, from classical concerts to jazz jam sessions to contemporary dance. www.radialsystem.de. Holzmarktstr. 33.

T: 030.288788588. S+U Jannowitzbrücke. G3

ON THIS MONTH THEATER, MUSICALS & DANCE BLUE MAN GROUP Bluemax Theater, all month

THE ONE: GRAND SHOW Friedrichstadt-Palast, all month

PARADE Chamäleon Theater, all month

SAYONARA TOKYO Wintergarten Variete, until 18 Feb.

ANATEVKA Komische Oper, 20, 21 Feb.

ROCKY HORROR SHOW Admiralspalast, 1–10 Feb.

Host Christian Schulte-Loh welcomes three of the best international club comics in Germany’s number one comedy club, exclusively flown in for one night only — plus one hot local act!

TAKE IT EASY! Wintergarten Varieté, from 21 Feb.

The One Grand Show at Friedrichstadt-Palast Sayonara Tokyo at Wintergarten Variete

ROCK, JAZZ, POP LADY GAGA Mercedes-Benz Arena, 23 Feb.

THE KILLERS Mercedes-Benz Arena, 27 Feb.

BALLET & CLASSICAL COURTESY OF WINTERGARTEN VARIETE.

GISELLE Staatsoper unter den Linden, 3 & 9 Feb.

TOSCA (PUCCINI) Deutsche Oper, 8 Feb.

ANDRAS SCHIFF Philharmonie, 5 Feb.

XERXES (HÄNDEL) Komische Oper, 9, 14, 17 Feb.

www.wheretraveler.com 51

Once Upon A Bar Great drinks are even greater when paired with a bit of history. Solveig Steinhardt visited Berlin's oldest bars.

Only a few of Berlin's historic establishments have managed to survive the city's stormy history, from the 350+ air strikes between 1940 and 1945 to almost half a century of Cold War. The ones that did survive still exude an extraordinary vibe of bygone times and provide a fascinating way to learn more about Berlin's past.

Prater, Berlin's oldest Biergarten, has been around since 1852, when Kastanienallee was just a remote road on the sandy edge of town. As Prenzlauer Berg developed into the neighborhood we now know, Prater grew into a café chantant, with a full program of burlesque shows, live music, operettas, and even classical plays. In the early 1900s, it became a venue for political gatherings and, left untouched by WWII bombs, it maintained an important cultural role throughout the GDR era, offering movie screenings, kids' events, and a rich theater and concert 52 W H E R E B E R L I N I F E B R UA R Y 2018

program. Although Prater is best known today for its beer garden, open in summer only, it also features an indoor restaurant with a fabulous 1920s feel and a large menu of drinks and regional specialties served amid antique furniture and reminders of the past, such as the bottles on the counter, originals from the locale's early days.

If Prater is the oldest beer garden, Wilhelm Hoeck (www.wilhelm-hoeck.de, Wilmersdorfer Str. 149) in Charlottenburg takes pride in being the city's oldest Kneipe.

Since 1892, this pub has been serving drinks and delicious German food to intellectuals, politicians, and students, and later, to audiences of the nearby Deutsche Oper.

Ancient furniture, ceiling-high shelves filled with bottles, a vibe that is both elegant and informal, and a menu of traditional Berlin dishes reduced to tapas size combine history with a contemporary feel.

Another gorgeous witness of the times

gone is Clärchens Ballhaus (Auguststr. 24, www.ballhaus.de), a ballroom dating back to 1913. When it first opened, the ballroom stood in the back of an inner courtyard, but when a WWII bomb destroyed the front building, the Ballhaus gained the garden space that is now its summer restaurant. The dance floor downstairs still has a retro look, but the real attraction is the Spiegelsaal upstairs, an old, mirror-lined ballroom that looks like it hasn't been renovated since 1942. The fascinating stucco and decorations in a state of decay make for a rather romantic backdrop to the large, informal dining tables and benches you share with strangers when you order a drink or a pizza. Smokers can, and should, visit the smoking room upstairs, which has a mini exhibition of interesting letters received by the Ballhaus throughout its history, including one from the East German police complaining about indecent activities in the venue.

CLÄRCHENS BALLHAUS: JANTENNE SPRINGBORN VIA FLICKR/CREATIVE COMMONS; USKA WENDLAND VIA FLICKR/ CREATIVE COMMONS, DOUGLAS HOYT VIA FLICKR/CREATIVE COMMONS, ©VISIT BERLIN, PHOTO BY GÜNTER STEFFEN; PRATER: COURTESY OF OH BERLIN.

NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE

NIGHTLIFE

BEER Ankerklause A canal-side tavern where drinks come with beautiful views of passing boats. Daily from 10am (Mon from 4pm). www.ankerklause.de. Kottbusser Damm 104. T: 030.6935649. U Schönleinstraße. F4

The Grand

A pleasant lakeside beer garden inside the verdant Tiergarten park. Open daily from breakfast onwards. www.cafeamneuensee.de.

Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930.

S Tiergarten. C3

A former school building has been transformed into a super-hip restaurant, bar and club all mixed into one. Enjoy top cocktails and a selection of cigars on the green leather couches in the 1920s-inspired bar, then dance the night away in the chic, intimate club. www.the-grand-berlin.com. Hirtenstr. 4.

T: 030.2789099555.

S+U Alexanderplatz. B4

Club der Visionäre

Green Door Cocktail Bar

This canal-side boat-shack attracts young crowds till early morning and beyond. Daily from 2pm until very late (from noon Sat & Sun). www.clubdervisionaere.com. Am Flutgraben 1.

T: 030.69518942. U Schlesisches Tor, S Treptower Park. G4

One of Berlin’s most relaxing cocktail bars, with a retro style and lots of kitsch décor. The cocktail list is long and the barman famous. Daily 6pm–3am (Fri–Sat until 4am). www.greendoor.de.

Winterfeldtstr. 50. T: 030.2152515.

U Nollendorfplatz. D4

Dicke Wirtin

The Unique Bar

This old Berliner Kneipe restaurant is a Charlottenburg institution. Great beer and traditional German dishes. Daily from 11am. www.dicke-wirtin.de. Carmerstr. 9. T: 030.3124952.

S Savignyplatz, S+U Zoologischer Garten. B4

An international drink menu with 200+ different cocktails, served to a jazz soundtrack. Mon–Sat from 4pm. www.esplanade.de. Grand Hotel Esplanade Berlin, Lützowufer 15.

T: 030.254780. Bus M29, stop Lützowplatz. D4

Prater

LaBanca Bar

Berlin’s oldest Biergarten serves simple and homely cuisine, seasonal specialties, and lots of beer of course! Daily from 6pm (from noon Sat). www.pratergarten.de. Kastanienallee 7-9.

T: 030.4485688. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

The Hotel de Rome’s bar team specializes in avantgarde cocktails made with unusual ingredients such as balsamic vinegar, rose petals, or ginger beer. Live music Wed–Sat, rooftop terrace in summer. www.hotelderome.com. Behrenstr. 37.

T: 030.4606090. U Französische Straße. E3

Café am Neuen See and Biergarten

Schleusenkrug A relaxing spot for beer lovers amid the lush greenery of the Tiergarten. German specialties to go with your beer include a variety of cakes, Flammkuchen, and a few breakfast options. Daily from 11am. www.schleusenkrug.de. Müller-BreslauStr. T: 030.3139909. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

CASINOS Spielbank Berlin A modern casino offering three floors of fun and games, including 20 tables of roulette, blackjack, and an extensive variety of poker options, as well as 350 gaming machines.Daily from 11am. www.spielbank-berlin.de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1.

T: 030.255990. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3/D4

WINE & COCKTAILS Bar Tausend Celebrities mingle while watching the expert mixologists do their magic at this futuristic bar.

Thu–Sat from 7:30pm. www.tausendberlin.com.

Schiffbauerdamm 11.

T: 030.27582070.

S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Fragrances

© ISTOCK.

a photo illustrating the final presentation, which ranges from playful to whimsical. www.ritzcarlton. com. Potsdamer Platz 3. T:030.337777.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

The Ritz-Carlton’s bar is the world’s only to pair cocktails with perfumes.

Each drink is represented by a tester bottle of the perfume it’s based on and

CLUB GUIDE BERGHAIN/PANORAMA BAR The world's most famous techno club – and with the toughest doormen too.

Fri 12am–Mon. www.berghain.de.

Am Wriezener Bahnhof. G3

KATER BLAU A top-notch soundsystem driving house and techno beats from the best DJs, and a carnival-like atmosphere.

Fri–Sat from midnight. www.katerblau.de.

Holzmarktstr. 25. G3

TRESOR

Newton Bar Cigars, champagne, whiskey, and cocktails define this bar, which is entirely dedicated to fashion photographer Helmut Newton. Daily 10am–3am (until 4am Fri–Sat). www.newton-bar.de.

Charlottenstr. 57. T: 030.20295421.

U Französische Straße. E3

Reingold A classic cocktail bar, 1920s style. Elegant leather sofas, sumptuous lighting, and gilded elements with a soundtrack ranging from soul and funk to R&B. Tue–Sat from 7pm. www.reingold.de. Novalisstr. 11.

T: 030.28387676.

U Oranienburger Tor. E2

Schwarzes Café A 24-hour combination of a bar and a café, with a good selection of beer and wine and hot meals at any time of night. Lovely garden. 24h a day except Tue from 3–10am. www.schwarzescafe-berlin.de.

Kantstr. 148.

T: 030.3138038.

U Uhlandstraße, U Savignyplatz. B4

Times Bar A fine and luxurious bar inside the Savoy Hotel, offering modern drinks and Caribbean cocktails alongside a selection of Cuban cigars. www.weinrot-restaurant.com.

Fasanenstr. 9-10.

T: 030.311030.

Savignyplatz. C4

Need something strong? Head to Victoria Bar (Potsdamer str. 102, www.victoriabar.de).

Housed in the safe of a department store, Tresor was the first techno club in Berlin’s post-Wall years. www.tresorberlin.com.

Köpenicker Str. 70. F3

WATERGATE A two-story electro, house, and drum & bass temple, right on the Spree River.

Tight doors. Mon, Wed–Sat from midnight. www.water-gate.de.

Falckensteinstr. 49. G4

HOUSE OF WEEKEND Three floors, fabulous views over the city, and the best DJs playing techno and house.

Fri–Sun from 11pm. www.week-end-berlin.de.

Alexanderplatz 7. F3

CLÄRCHENS BALLHAUS A popular, century-old dance hall. It's salsa on Mon, tango on Tues, swing on Wed, cha cha on Thu, and live ballroom music on Fri+Sat. www.ballhaus.de.

Auguststr. 24.

U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

HORNS & HOOVES An eccentric combination of club, piano bar, cabaret, and circus. www.hornsandhooves.de.

Danziger Str. 1. F1

GRETCHEN Funk, hip hop, drum & bass and electronica at this eclectic Kreuzberg club.

Fri & Sat. www.gretchen-club.de.

Obentrautstr. 19-21. E4

PURO SKY LOUNGE High-heeled crowds in a sleek, luxurious setting on the roof of the Europa Center.

Wed–Sat from 8pm. www.puroberlin.de.

Tauentzienstr. 9-12. C4

THE PEARL Luxurious club for the poshest crowds, Thu–Sat until 7am. www.thepearl-berlin.de.

Fasanenstr. 81. G4

www.wheretraveler.com 53

ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE USEFUL INFORMATION Emergency numbers Police, call 110 free from any phone.

Ambulance or fire, call 112 free from any phone.

Medical Services, T: 030.310031.

24h Pharmacy: Hauptbahnhof Apotheke.

T: 030.20614190. S Hauptbahnhof.

Berlin Police hotline, T: 030.46644664.

Emergency dental services, T: 030.89004333.

Poison hotline, T: 030.19240.

National emergency number for on-call medical service, T: 116117.

Berlin lost and found office, T: 030.902773101.

BERLIN AIRPORTS Berlin Tegel (TXL) Approx. 10 km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150.

TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By bus: Buses 109 or X9 to Zoologischer Garten

run every 10 mins, taking approx. 20 mins. The TXL express bus to Alexanderplatz via Hauptbahnhof runs every 5–10 mins, taking. 25 mins. Single tickets cost €2.80 and can be bought on board.

By U-Bahn: Bus 109 or X9 connects to the U-Bahn system at Jakob-Kaiser-Platz. Bus 128 links to the U-Bahn at Kurt-Schumacher-Platz and runs every 10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. Tickets cost €2.80.

By taxi: Regular cabs take 10–20 mins to city center. Approx. €20–€35.

Left luggage: Service center in Terminal A (ground floor). T: 030.41012315.

BERLIN ESSENTIALS

€ TIPPING: In taxis, rounding up to the nearest euro is the general practice, and the same applies when ordering a beer at the pub. In nicer bars and in restaurants or cafés, tipping around 10% is customary, more if you feel the service was especially good. While it is fine to leave the tip on the table, local practice is to add the tip to the payment when settling up. For example, if the bill is €13 and you want to tip €2, say “Fifteen” to the server when paying.

TAXIS: All taxis in Berlin are the same color of pale beige and are generally clean, safe, and courteous. The meter begins at €3.90 and increases at €2 per km. After the 7th km, the rate reduces to €1.50 / km. Payments by card may incur a €1.50 surcharge. For short rides of 2 km or less, the flat-rate €5 Kurzstrecke fare pays off. The Kurzstrecke rate only applies to hailed taxi rides (not from taxi stands) and must be requested at the start of the ride.

SAFETY: Berlin is a relatively safe city, but beware of pickpockets in busy areas. When in crowded U-Bahn stations, tourist sites, busy markets, and the like, pay close attention to your belongings and valuables.

Alexanderplatz, Kottbusser Tor, Breitscheidplatz, Tauentzienstraße, and around Warschauer Straße station are especially favored by pickpocketers.

Berlin Schönefeld (SXF) Approx. 20 km (12 miles) southeast of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150.

TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By regional train: Deutsche Bahn-operated

RE7 or RB14 to Ostbahnhof, Alexanderplatz, Hauptbahnhof, and Zoologischer Garten. RE9 to Hauptbahnhof via Südkreuz and Potsdamer Platz.

Trains take approx. 45 mins. Tickets cost €3.40.

By S-Bahn: Trains S9 and S45 to Hauptbahnhof, via Ostkreuz and Südkreuz respectively, run. every 20 mins, taking approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.40.

By U-Bahn: Bus X7 and X11 to Rudow station connect with the U-Bahn system and run every 10 mins. Journey approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.40.

By (night) bus: Arrivals between midnight and 4am Mon–Fri can take bus N7 to central areas.

By taxi: Regular cabs take approx. 30 mins to city center, costing €30–€40.

Left luggage: At the multi-storey car park P4.

T: 030.60911150.

HEALTH: Few doctors’ practices open on weekends.

In urgent cases, call 030 310031 to request a home visit from an emergency doctor, or go to the nearest hospital emergency room. For medication, pharmacies offer rotating nighttime and weekend coverage (“Notdienst”).

Visit www.akberlin.de to search for one in your vicinity.

PHONES: The local area code for landline phones is 030. Mobile phones have a wide variety of four-digit dialing codes beginning with 015-, 016-, or 017-. When dialing from a non-German landline or mobile phone, drop the zero before the area code or dialing code and add the German country code: +49 or 0049. Dialing a 0180 number will incur tolls.

GETTING AROUND Public Transport

www.bvg.de.

Buy tickets from machines in the station, and be sure to validate them in the posts next to the ticket machines. Single tickets cost €2.80; or save by paying €9 for four single-trip tickets, which you can validate as you need. If traveling fewer than three train stations or six bus or tram stops, buy a short-trip ticket for €1.70. Day tickets cost €7 for unlimited travel until 3am the following day, or if you are traveling with others, a small group ticket will get up to five people unlimited travel for €19.90. For those staying longer, a pass valid for seven days may be a better value at €30.

54 W H E R E B E R L I N I F E B R UA R Y 20 18

© ISTOCK

Fares

ESSENTIALS U-Bahn

U Hermannplatz

The underground system is extensive. Most lines run every five minutes (less frequently outside working hours), 4am–12:30am (replaced by night buses outside of these times). The entire U-Bahn and S-Bahn network runs all night on weekends.

S-Bahn The above-ground system is faster than the U-Bahn but less frequent. Trains run every 10–20 mins. Timing and ticket rules apply as above.

Public Ferries With a regular BVG ticket ,you can hop on one of the six public ferry lines. Most beautiful is the trip from Wannsee to lakeside Kladow village; ferries leave every hour and take about 20 minutes.

Rail Travel Deutsche Bahn is the railway company that manages the Regional Bahn (RB) and Regional Express (RE) trains, operating around greater Berlin and Potsdam. The Intercity (IC) and European City (EC) trains travel further afield. www.bahn.de. Toll number: 0180.6996633.

VBB is a public transportation authority created to reconnect Berlin to the surrounding Brandenburg area after German reunification.It offers services to metropolitan Berlin as well as to the rural communities in the countryside of Brandenburg. www.vbb.de

Rent A Bike Explore Berlin by bike.

Deutsche Bahn Call-a-Bike service:

Taxis

Tax-Free Shopping

Würfelfunk: T: 030.210101.

German law entitles all non-EU residents to a VAT tax refund. Look for stores displaying the Premier Tax Free sign and ask for a "tax-free form." When leaving the EU, goods and the completed form must be shown to a customs agent, from which a customs stamp must be obtained no more than three months after the date of purchase. Goods must be unused. Present the stamped form at the refund counter in the airport, or send it to Premier Tax Free as soon as you reach your destination. www.premiertaxfree.com.

MONEY SERVICES Banks and Foreign Exchange Exchange AG: Friedrichstr. 172. T: 030.20649296.

Deutsche Bank: Kurfürstendamm 111. T: 030.8904370.

Lost Cards and Cheques American Express: T: 069.97972000 Diners Club: T: 07531.3633111 MasterCard: T: 0800.8191040 Visa: T: 0800.8118440

MAP LICENSE NUMBER: BVG 0050.16; © ISTOCK

www.callabike.de.

STATIOHNE OF T TH MON

Crowded, chaotic, and filled with a colorful cast of characters at any time of day, Hermannplatz station is situated at the junction of the U7 and U8, precisely where the Kreuzberg and Neukölln districts meet. The lower level, with its high ceilings and yellow tiles, was opened in 1926 to serve the U7 line, and a year later, the U8 platform was opened above it. The escalators connecting them were a real novelty, the first to be used in Berlin’s transport network.

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Sowje Ehre

WHERE NOW | ADRIANA NAPOLITANO

ADRIANA NAPOLITANO SET DESIGNER & PHOTOGRAPHER If your imagination can dream it, Adriana can probably make it.

Creative ingenuity, analog materials, and digital manipulation are behind her handiwork, which ranges from set design to quirky, ingenious props for music videos, fashion shoots, movies, and more.

Her creations and photographs have been featured in a wide variety of online and print publications. www.adriananapolitano.com

What brought you from Italy to Berlin?

Five years ago, my boyfriend and I were living in Rome and we both needed a change. We came here for a holiday to scout the area and immediately this city seemed like the best option for both of us.

communication that brings people together – at least I like to think so. But sometimes its effectiveness depends on the cultural background. My goal is of course to transcend cultural differences, not only in my work, but also in my everyday life.

How is it, in your experience, to live in Berlin as a creative freelancer?

This is a very inspiring city. Loaded with events, creative people, and ideas, this city makes a good background for reinvention. Maybe the myth about Berlin being the right place for creatives is fueling the creativity – it’s a circle. A good one.

Which neighborhood of Berlin do you live in? A favorite place in the neighborhood?

I live in Wedding and I love it. It’s not fancy of course, but it’s quiet and I feel at home here because I’ve lived here since day one.

My favorite place is Plötzensee, a small lake with a small bar where I love spending summery afternoons.

You work primarily as a set and prop designer – what are some ways in which you create?

I work with many different materials, but paper is definitely my favorite one. I love it because it is an incredibly simple thing we see everywhere, but has so much potential. I love exploring how many different ways I can use this everyday material – it stimulates my curiosity.

There is a wonderful sense of humor in much of your work. As an Italian living and working in Germany, has humor been a way to connect with people from a different culture?

I think that humor is a powerful instrument of 58 W H E R E B E R L I N I F E B R UA R Y 20 18

When you have friends or family come to visit, where do you take them?

They are tourists, so you always have to take them everywhere! Museums, shopping, restaurants, and beers on the river. But my favorite places will always be parks and lakes.

Berlin has a lot of beautiful green areas, that’s the thing I love the most here. So when we are done with the main attractions I like to bring

them to lie down on the grass, if the weather is on our side.

Imagine you had the entire day off to spend however you want. What would your perfect Berlin day look like?

First, I would have breakfast at House of Small Wonder (www. houseofsmallwonder.de), a tiny, beautiful place with a very warm atmosphere. After that, I would swing

by Dussmann bookstore (www. kulturkaufhaus.de) to have (another) coffee and check out the vertical garden. If I’m a little bit homesick, I would go for lunch to Rosso (www.rossoberlin.de), my favorite not-only-pizza place which really tastes and smells like home. For a beer before dinner I would go to Eschenbräu (www.eschenbraeu.de), a brewery very close to my place, followed by an amazing burger at Sixtyseven in Rosenthaler Straße.

Clockwise from top left: A cardboard Land Rover; Adriana Napolitano; Dussmann; Adriana Napolitano bathing in paper-pasta soup; swimsuit ad; House of Small Wonder.

CARDBOARD CAR: © ADRIANA NAPOLITANO; DUSSMANN CC BY-SA 2.0 VIA FLICKR USER PASCAL VOLK; PORTRAIT ADRIANA NAPOLITANO, SWIMSUIT, SOUP: COURTESY OF ADRIANA NAPOLITANO; HOUSE OF SMALL WONDER © STEFAN KÜHNE.

My Berlin

THE LOTUS COLLECTION FINE JEWELLERY DESIGNED BY CHARLOTTE LYNGGAARD FINE JEWELLERY DESIGNED BY CHARLOTTE LYNGGAARD

NEU IN DRESDEN · Juwelier an der Frauenkirche · An der Frauenkirche 3 · 01067 Dresden · Tel 0351–49 73 970 · dresden-qf@juwelier-leicht.de NEU IN DRESDEN · Juwelier an Hotel der Frauenkirche · An Frauenkirche 3Berlin · 01067 Dresden · Tel 0351–49 73 970 · dresden-qf@juwelier-leicht.de NEU IN DRESDEN · Juwelier an der Frauenkirche · An der Frauenkirche 3 Frauenkirche · 01067 · Tel 0351–49 73 970 · dresden-qf@juwelier-leicht.de Juwelier Unter dender Linden · 10117Dresden · Tel 030–22 90 212 berlin@juwelier-leicht.de NEU im IN DRESDEN Adlon · Juwelier· an der Frauenkirche · An der77 3 · 01067 Dresden · Tel 0351–49 73 970 ·· dresden-qf@juwelier-leicht.de Juwelier Hotel Adlon den Linden · 10117 · Tel ·030–22 90 212 ·· berlin@juwelier-leicht.de im Hotel Adlon den Linden 77 ·7710117 Berlin Tel 90 212 · berlin@juwelier-leicht.de Juwelier imJuwelier Hotel Adlon · Unter den·imUnter Linden 77· Unter · 10117 Berlin · TelBerlin 030–22 90030–22 212 berlin@juwelier-leicht.de