Where Magazine Berlin Jan 2018

BERLIN CITY GUIDE ®

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

WHERETRAVELER.COM

JANUARY 2018

Fashion Week is back with Berlin's best designers

PLUS NEW YEAR'S RESOLUTIONS ROYAL TABLEWARES FIRESIDE DINING

SHOPPING | ENTERTAINMENT | CULTURE | DINING | MAPS WB JAN COVER.indd 1

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Berlin

01.18

CONTENTS

See more of Berlin at wheretraveler.com

The Plan Let’s get started

The Guide The best of Berlin

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8 Hot Dates

Combining sightseeing with shopping at Alexanderplatz.

Highlights of the month's can't-miss events, from sensual dance and music legends to Grüne Woche.

SIGHTSEEING

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XXBerlin's most iconic East buildings, caught between Bauhaus and Soviet grandness.

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

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C/O XXBerlin, where a picture is worth more than a thousand words.

DINING

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Cozy fireside dining XX Guten Appetit! spots.

58 My Berlin

Afrika! Afrika! showcases African dance and acrobatics.

Also Inside

From Berghain and beyond, abandoned buildings turned underground nightclubs.

Berlin's concierges share their city secrets.

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Where Now

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SHOPPING | ENTERTAINMENT | CULTURE | DINING | MAPS

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The best time to get started on your new year's resolutions is now.

Fashion Week is back with Berlin's best designers

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Useful information for your stay.

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BERLIN CITY GUIDE

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NIGHTLIFE

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54 Ask The Concierge

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

ENTERTAINMENT

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Jennifer Kronovet A poetic look at the big city and surrounding nature.

Ella-Tre reb be-Str Str.

LA LA LAND IN CONCERT: COURTESY OF LA LA LAND IN CONCERT; NIGHT KITCHEN: © BOAZ ARAD; BOLLHAGEN CERAMICS: COURTESY OF BOLLHAGEN; LAST HEIRS: COURTESY OF LAST HEIRS; CLIMBING PARK: © ISTOCK.

SHOPPING

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7 Editor’s Note

B Mu

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Experience great masterpieces.

Already while driving to the ‘Museumsinsel’.

Sometimes pure driving pleasure starts as soon as you turn the key. Visit www.porsche.de/drive to book your dream Porsche from the current model range or stop by our Porsche Drive location in Berlin, Franklinstrasse 32. Want to continue your journey? Porsche Drive is also available in Stuttgart, in Sylt or in Zug (Switzerland).

Fuel consumption (in l/100 km) combined 2.5; CO₂ emissions combined 56 g/km; electricity consumption: combined in 15.9 kWh/100km

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YOUR TRAVEL ING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

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Sarah Bethke

6 W H E R E B E R L I N I J A N UA R Y 2018

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WELCOME TO BERLIN

Beauty Is In The Details Happy New Year! We wish you a 2018 filled with eye-opening trips around the world, great food, and celebrations of life and beauty!

They say beauty isn't everything, and I tend to agree. But, as the ancient Greeks used to say, some beauty can help us feel good. A harmonious view, a skillful use of color and geometry, and musical consonance were all thought by the Greek philosophers to have healing powers on the human soul. And every year, when the deep Berlin winter decends and everything turns grey and gloomy, Berliners turn to art and music to satisfy their sense of aesthetics.

Since when are you multilayered?*

Berlin doesn't have the stylish grandeur of Rome, the elegance of Paris, or the delicate charm of Prague, and though things like the Renaissance paintings of the Gemäldegalerie and the bust of Nefertiti inside the Neues Museum match the popular standards of beauty, Berlin's real beauty is in the details: the hallways and facades of the Art Nouveau buildings, the carved wooden counter of a tiny bakery on Rüdesheimer Platz, the bricks and wooden beams of the indoor market halls, or even just the people's easy-going attitude are just some examples of Berlin's inner beauty. Have a wonderful time discovering the city!

SOLVEIG STEINHARDT EDITOR, WHERE BERLIN

*»Returning to Reims« based on »Retour à Reims«

by Didier Eribon in a version by the Schaubühne Direction: Thomas Ostermeier On January 23, 24, 28, 29 and 30.

Tickets: 030 890023 www.schaubuehne.de w w w.wheret w w w.wh e rer aveler.c t r ave l e r. com om 7

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HOT

DATES January in Berlin is filled with exciting events, from passionate horse shows to pop concerts and gymnastics performances.

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LA LA LAND IN CONCERT FROM MONDAY

The award-winning film starring Emma Stone and Ryan Gosling is now being taken to the stage. Set in today’s Los Angeles, the story is about bitter setbacks in pursuit of everyday happiness and lifelong dreams. An over-100-member symphony orchestra and live choir provide the background music for this feel-good yet heartbreaking musical.

At Tempodrom Berlin. www.tempodrom.de 8 W H E R E B E R L I N I J A N UA R Y 2018

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WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

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APASSIONATA FROM SATURDAY

Apassionata brings the special relationship between humans and equines to stage. Their new show, Companions of Light, is a about a young girl who finds a magical charm that leads her on a breathtaking journey around the globe, hoping to save the Earth from eternal cold and darkness.

Expect spectacular trick riding, impressive dressage, and fun comedy, accompanied by beautiful costumes, dazzling light effects, and unique musical compositions. At MercedesBenz Arena Berlin for two days only. www.apassionata.com

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AHA FROM MONDAY

The iconic Norwegian pop trio from the ‘80s, who made their breakthrough with international hit Take On Me, recently dazzled audiences at MTV Unplugged by playing 100% acoustically on the picturesque island of Giske off the coast of Norway. The concert was so successful, they are now taking their new sound on tour. Don’t miss this night of 1980s revival. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de

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FEUERWERK DER TURNKUNST FROM SUNDAY

Self-professed world stars of movement, Feuerwerk der Turnkunst have been impressing audiences year after year. Their new show, AURA, is no exception, creating a magical and secretive world of acrobatics and dance in which gifted bodies move against a backdrop of sensual colors and light. At Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin for one day only. www.feuerwerkderturnkunst.de

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JANUARY

DEPECHE MODE FROM WEDNESDAY

At the peaks of the international music scene for over three decades, Depeche Mode can only be described as legends. Their Spirit album, released in March last year, stayed at number one on the charts for 19 weeks, and tickets to their Global Spirit Tour sold out at lightning speed. Lucky for us, after their legendary 22 June concert at Olympiastadion, the band has extended their tour across Germany and will be back in Berlin this month, this time at Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin, with two dates, 17 and 19 January. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de

DAYS OF DANCE FROM THURSDAY

Contemporary dance festival Tanztage is the most important date for up-andcoming, Berlin-based choreographers and dancers.

Performances include elements of visual arts, sound and language, and current affairs, and also feature offbeat genres such as striptease and breakdance. Creating just as much commotion as the pieces themselves are the legendary festival parties and the return of the talk show forum, all taking place at Sophiensaele in Mitte. www.sophiensaele.com

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INTERNATIONAL GREEN WEEK BERLIN FROM FRIDAY

They say you are what you eat, so take a closer look at Grüne Woche.

Considered the world’s biggest consumer fair for the food, agricultural, and horticultural industries, it attracts more than 400,000 visitors each year.

However, it’s not just a fair for trade professionals. The launch of new products, lots of food tastings, an organic market, and live animals, means there is something to satisfy every palate. Until 28 January at Messe Berlin. www.gruenewoche.de

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31

HOT DATES

Happy new year! Enjoy the holiday with a show of The Nutcracker at Deutsche Oper.

Step right up! It's the final day of the beloved Roncalli Christmas Circus at Tempodrom.

The booming baritones of Russia's famed Don Cossack Choir fill Konzerthaus tonight.

Watch the lively dancers of the Irish Celtic show kick up their heels at Admiralspalast.

The Rock Legends show at Mercedes-Benz Arena gathers Germany's classic rock stars.

Sway along with the happy tunes at tonight's Gospel Gala concert at the Philharmonie.

Last chance! The magical Christmas Garden lights finish up today at the Botanical Garden.

Loved the movie La La Land? Don't miss the concert of the soundtrack at Tempodrom.

The Night of the 5 Tenors show at Huxley's features opera aria faves from Aida and more.

Enjoy an afternoon Espresso Concert at Konzerthaus – it's "caffeine for the ears."

Feast on international delicacies at the Street Food Thursday event at Markthalle Neun.

Treat yourself to a performance of Puccini's grand opera Tosca at the Deutsche Oper.

Admire the stunning horse tricks in the Apassionata show at Mercedes-Benz Arena.

Antique lovers definitely should not miss the Sunday flea market at Arkonaplatz.

See the Russian State Ballet dance the beautiful Swan Lake at the UdK Konzertsaal.

Marvel at the famous bust of Nefertiti, queen of Ancient Egypt, at Neues Museum.

The legendary Depeche Mode plays to adoring fans at Mercedes-Benz Arena tonight.

Big-hit British indie band Alt-J plays a muchanticipated concert at Max Schmeling Halle.

Craft beer fans: check out the unbelievable range of brews on tap at Hopfenreich bar.

Georges Bizet's much-loved opera Carmen takes the stage at Deutsche Oper.

Catch a film at CineStar Potsdamer Platz, which specializes in movies in English.

The Magic of the Dance at Friedrichstadt Palast is a must for fans of Irish dance.

Let's do the time warp again! Cult fave Rocky Horror Show is on all week at Admiralspalast.

Renowned composer Daniel Barenboim gives a piano concert at Pierre-Boulez-Saal.

The thrilling Six Day Race, an epic cycling competition, starts today at Velodrom.

At Lido, A Tribe Called Red blends traditional Native Canadian music with techno.

Celebrate the weekend with dinner and a night of dancing at Mitte's chic Bar Tausend.

Take a break from the wintry weather at the tropical greenhouses at the Botanical Garden.

Visit Martin Gropius Bau's exhibition on the shared history of Jews, Muslims & Christians.

Take a musical lunch break at the Philharmonie's free "lunch concert" at 1pm.

Watch snooker stars sink shots in the German Masters tournament, Tempodrom.

APASSIONATA: COURTESY OF APASSIONATA PRESS; LA LA LAND IN CONCERT: COURTESY OF LA LA LAND IN CONCERT; A-HA: JUST LOOMIS UNIVERSAL MUSIC; TURNKUNST: RELATION BY RIGOLO SUREN,KARYNA_PR-BILD PHOTO BY GERMAN ANTON; DEPECHE MODE: PHOTO © SUNIL060902 WIKIMEDIA COMMONS; TANZTAGE: © KATARZYNA SZUGALEW; GRÜNE WOCHE: COURTESY OF GRÜNE WOCHE.

WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

For more ideas, see our Entertainment section.

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TANZTAGE BERLIN 2018

JANUARY

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DESIGN

Jan Grygoriew, jangry.com

04 – 14

07/12/2017 10:23

Clockwise from top left: spinning gym; veggie box for healthful meals; dinner with friends at Night Kitchen; books; a helicopter ride over Berlin; green tea to soothe mind and body; a concert at Pierre-Boulez Saal; grilled octopus from Night Kitchen.

SPINNING, HELICOPTER RIDE, BERLIN VIEW, TEA, VEGETABLES, BOOKS: © ISTOCK; PIERRE BOULEZ SAAL: ©PETER ADAMIK; NIGHT KITCHEN: PHOTOS © BOAZ ARAD.

WHERE NOW | NEW YOU

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New year s g n i n n i g e b new The best time to get started on new year’s resolutions is right away.

Hilda Hoy has some inspiration to get you going.

T

ime for a fresh start. Most of us start off the new year with big ambitions for getting in shape, eating well, and staying focused on self-improvement. To help you get your 2018 resolutions up and running, here are some helpful pointers on Berlin’s best places to work on the new, improved you.

zingy lime sauce), their raw creations are both nourishing and satisfying. Another place that loves it fresh is Mitte’s Good Bank (Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 5, www.good-bank. de) is. In eye-catching glass cases along one wall, the lettuce and kale used in the eatery’s delicious salads and sandwiches grow under rotating LED lights.

EAT BETTER After the many indulgences of the holiday season, January is when many of us vow to be a bit more virtuous about what we put into our bodies. Thankfully, the healthy eating trend of recent years has given rise to numerous restaurants, cafés, and juice bars across the city that prove eating well can also be delicious. At Rawtastic (Danziger Str. 16, www.rawtastic.de), not only is everything on the menu completely vegan, it’s all raw as well, never heated above about 40 °C in order to leave nutrients pristine.

From the Pizzatastic (buckwheat crust, cashew “cheese”) to their colorful Pad Thai (noodles of kelp and vegetables, with a

GET IN SHAPE There’s no avoiding it: To be healthy and get in shape, you’re going to have to move your body and break a sweat. Committed to making exercise fun is BECYCLE, a hip, fun workout studio near Rosenthaler Platz that offers two streams of body boosting: spinning and sculpting. Spinning is a high-intensity, high-results workout on stationary bikes that really gets the heart pumping, while the complementary barre and yoga classes sculpt and tone the body. All classes are in English and no membership is required, but advance booking is recommended. To dive deeper into the many benefits of yoga, drop in for a

class at the Jivamukti Berlin school (www. jivamuktiberlin.de), which offers numerous sessions in English. The teachers will skillfully introduce you to the Jivamukti style, or try the more vigorous Ashtanga or soothing restorative yoga classes.

EXPAND YOUR CULTURAL HORIZONS Wellness means not just taking care of the body, but feeding the mind as well.

Luckily, cultural stimulation is easy to find in Berlin. Start by checking out an exhibition at one of Museum Island’s UNESCO Heritage-protected museums, like the Alte Nationalgalerie (Bodestraße), home to a world-famous collection of 19th-century paintings and sculpture. The headlining exhibition at the moment is titled Small Masterpieces, featuring striking portraits and nature studies rendered in miniature.

Further west, the Museum of Photography (Jebensstr. 2) is currently hosting an exhibition on how contemporary Chinese photography fared in the wake of the Cultural Revolution. w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 13

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WHERE NOW | NEW YOU

Right: The Alte Nationalgalerie; Far Right: Meditation; Below: A raw pizza from Rawtastic.

LESS FACEBOOK, MORE REAL BOOKS Reading does a person good, so set aside the smartphone for a while and crack open an actual book. Browse for a riveting new read at Dussmann (Friedrichstr. 90, www.kulturkaufhaus.de), an enormous bookstore in Mitte that not only has a sizeable, two-level department of Englishlanguage books in the back, the shop also has the added bonus of staying open until midnight. St. George’s (Wörther Str. 27, www.saintgeorgesbookshop.com) and Shakespeare & Sons (Warschauer Str. 74, www.shakesbooks.de) are two independently run, English-language shops that are very well worth supporting. Both shops stock a thorough selection of new and secondhand titles and host regular events that attract many from Berlin’s expat literary scene.

CROSS SOMETHING OFF THE BUCKET LIST You only live once – so make the most of it! Why not channel Berlin’s anything-goes spirit and try something adventurous? For example, overcome your fear of heights with a thrilling helicopter ride over the cityscape.

Air Service Berlin (www.air-service-berlin. de) offers a variety of helicopter tours lifting off from Schönefeld Airport – breathtaking bird-eye views included.

Always dreamed of making an audience burst into laughter? The Comedy Café Berlin (Roseggerstr. 17, www.comedycafeberlin. com) hosts a comedy improv jam every Thursday evening, a chance to get up on stage and get as wacky and weird as your heart desires. And if you’ve been harboring secret musical ambitions, Madame Claude (Lübbener Str. 19, www.madameclaude.de), a funky music venue in Kreuzberg, hosts open mic nights every Sunday from 8pm. You’ll get a free drink for your bravery. But take note: originality is a must – no cover songs.

FOCUS ON QUALITY TIME It’s relationships, not accomplishments, that give meaning to our lives. This year, make it a resolution to prioritize quality time with family and friends. And what better way to enjoy time together than breaking bread and sharing a meal? Night Kitchen (Oranienburger Str. 32, www. nightkitchenberlin.com), a chilled-out contemporary dining bar tucked into a pleasant Mitte courtyard, has just the thing.

Rather than ordering à la carte, choose the “Dinner With Friends” option and you’ll get a splendid, personalized feast comprised of their tastiest dishes, served family style for everyone to share. Berlin’s Night Kitchen is a spinoff of a successful Tel Aviv restaurant, and its roots are evident in the fresh, colorful menu: grilled octopus with a zingy pea-

arugula-horseradish puree, mussels in pastis broth, and a variety of luscious salads.

CULTIVATE MINDFULNESS Life can feel hectic even at the best of times.

If you’ve resolved to find more balance and inner calm this year, learning some meditation skills could be a good place to start. The lovely Taiwanese-style Mountain Tea House (Uhlandstr. 147, www.chentee. berlin) offers tea meditation every Monday evening from 6:30pm, an opportunity to practice mindfulness over a simple bowlful of steaming oolong. Kreuzberg’s Zen-styled Macha Macha café (Hasenheide 16, www. macha-macha.de), in addition to serving up green tea and Japanese sweets, also offers meditation events – check the website for details. Or just lay back and drift into bliss at Tranxx, where individual flotation tanks provide the weightlessness and sensory deprivation to bring on a deep meditative state (Akazienstr. 27, www.tranxx.de).

A NEW LOOK Frumpiness no more. It’s a new year – high time to head to the salon for a daring new look. Trust your tresses to the friendly, young stylists at Toronto (Linienstr. 115, www.toronto-berlin.de), a longtime salon favorite amongst Mitte’s hipsters. For the full luxury treatment, head to celebrity hairstylist Shan Rahimkhan’s style emporium on Gendarmenmarkt. Whether it’s a new cut and color you seek or just a fun ‘do for the night, their salon and blow-dry bar does it all.

ALTE NATIONALGALERIE MUSEUMSINSEL BERLIN-MITTE © STAATLICHE MUSEEN ZU BERLIN. FOTO: ©MAXIMILIAN MEISSE; MEDITATION: © ISTOCK. SALAD: COURTESY OF RAWTASTIC.

Schedule in a musical evening at the Pierre Boulez Saal (www.boulezsaal.de) or at the Staatsoper (Unter den Linden 7, www. staatsoper-berlin.de), the grand opera house that recently reopened after years of extensive renovations. This month’s program includes opera classics like Mozart’s Magic Flute and Don Giovanni, as well as the stunning ballet masterpiece Jewels by famed choreographer George Balanchine.

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Royal

Tablewares E

ver since the day Marco Polo came back from China with a small, green porcelain jar, European royals have been obsessed with this durable and delicate material. Also known as white gold for its stratospheric price, porcelain was imported from the Far East until the early 18th century, when a German alchemist developed a method of using local ingredients and high-temperature firing techniques that ushered in a new era of porcelain production in the heart of Europe. Today, no trip to Berlin would be complete without dipping a toe into the world of German porcelain and its less refined cousin, ceramics, both of which are well-represented in shops and museums in and around the city.

WHITE GOLD While the famed Meissen factory in Saxony remains the gold standard for German porcelain, Berlin’s Königliche Porzellan Manufaktur has been making porcelain for royals since the mid-18th century, and visiting it while in Berlin is a must. In the grand KPM headquarters near Tiergarten park (Wegelystr. 1, www.kpm-berlin.com) visitors can take tours of the factory, where

each exquisite piece is made by hand, visit KPM’s museum, which exhibits priceless objects from throughout the company’s storied history, or browse the contemporary offerings in the shop, from elegant table settings to beautiful vases, whimsical holiday items and other decorative objects.

A secret tip for bargain hunters is to check out the outlet store on the premises, which sells seconds that are often indistinguishable from the far more expensive pieces in the main shop.

CERAMICS ART Porcelain is the purer, more luxurious art form, while ceramics are less refined, but no less compelling in terms of artistry. Just outside of Berlin in Marwitz is the factory and headquarters of the famous Bauhaus ceramicist Hedwig Bollhagen, whose everyday pieces are icons of early 20th-century design. Bollhagen’s mission was to create ceramics for daily use that were both beautiful and useful. Her heirs now hope

to raise the company’s international profile, producing larger, more expensive runs of her designs. But the Bollhagen Shop on Wilmersdorfer Strasse in Charlottenburg still sells affordable originals that were made under Bollhagen’s supervision.

In an old pharmacy in Kreuzberg, Bernhard Kühn produces a wholly different, but no less compelling line of ceramic objects. The style at Kühn Keramik (Yorckstr. 18, www.kuehn-keramik. com) is both baroque and contemporary, whimsical and over-the-top. Using traditional techniques married with quirky design references from classical art as well as clever literary influences, Kühn’s pieces are little works of art that sell all over the world. Fans of John Derian, Fornasetti, and Astier de Villatte will find in Kühn a kindred spirit.

MUSEUM PIECES Conveniently located around the corner from the Bollhagen Shop, Berlin’s Ceramics Museum is housed in one of the only remaining

COURTESY OF KPM BERLIN, ROSENTHAL, BOLLHAGEN, KÜHN KERAMIK.

Luisa Weiss explored the city’s best spots for porcelain and fine china.

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WHERE NOW | PORCELAIN & CERAMICS

early-18th-century houses in Berlin and features works from ceramicists of largely German-speaking countries from the past century and a half. Despite the small size of the museum, the collection is extensive and rich, and the exhibitions vary between featuring individual artists and themed collections. For those interested in porcelain artistry, the Märkisches Museum in Mitte and the Kunstgewerbemusem near Potsdamer Platz both boast sizeable collections of important pieces from the past few centuries of European production as well as older Asian pieces (www.smb.museum).

BEST OF THE REST To browse or buy contemporary porcelain and ceramic objects from manufacturers across Germany, there is no better place to visit than KaDeWe, Berlin’s preeminent department store. Not only does KaDeWe sell everything from Arzberg to Dibbern to Rosenthal (as well as KPM), it also has a Meissen boutique. Take the elevator to the 4th floor and let yourself get lost among priceless Meissen statues, enchanting KPM tablescapes and elegant services from Bollhagen.

Clockwise from opposite page, top left: Tea pot by Rosenthal; Hedwig Bollhagen's signature blue stripes; A covered dish

by Rosenthal; The Bollhagen workshop; Humorous pieces

by Bernhard Kühn; Handpainted piece from KPM; Rabbit by KPM; The "I Love Baroque" vase by Rosenthal, in collaboration with Versace. w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 17

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WHERE NOW | FASHION WEEK

Art Fashion of

and

W

hen fashion collective Last Heirs, headed by Lea Roth and Maximilian Dörner, made their debut at the Mercedes-Benz Berlin Fashion Week last June, they didn’t expect such great success.

Their show, presenting garments at the intersection of workwear and club-culture gear, attracted so many people that there just wasn't enough room to accommodate everyone. The collection ended up in fashion magazines such as Vogue Germany, Vogue Italia, and Elle, and the brand was defined as one of the "top five Berlin designers to know" in both Hypebeast and i-D magazines. We spoke to Maximilian Dörner to learn more.

How would you describe your collective and its members? The concept behind Last Heirs came about through our years in fashion and our desire to change the way the industry works. We create as a team, everyone has a say, and social platforms make it possible.

You are an international collective of young designers, but you are mainly based in Berlin. How do your creations

fit in with the Berlin style? There are a lot of essentially Berlin influences in the collections, from working class roots in workwear aesthetics to the club and rave culture that we all share and adhere to.

Your Spring/Summer 18 collection explored the theme of construction. What inspired that? It was all about the self, about creation and about shaping the world around you. The Fall/Winter 18 is going to continue that discourse, but will explore the limitations of the self, and the environment, as well as present, past, and future.

Who do you create for? We are fashion veterans creating for an audience who is familiar with the industry. We create for creators, so to speak. We are now interested to see how others outside the fashion world will react to our creations.

What is your message? Create, don’t destroy. Show candor and resilience in a world that is seen as superficial and unsurmountable, and you’ll succeed. Be the best you that you can be, and break with convention, but never forget the lessons of the past. Look to the future with optimism.

ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF LAST HEIRS.

Berlin Fashion Week is upon us, and Solveig Steinhardt spoke to the Last Heirs fashion collective, one of the most exciting recent discoveries in the Berlin fashion scene.

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ellen eisemann

Fashion Hunting New Collection Autumn/Winter 2018/19 Fashion Week Berlin Showroom Ellen Eisemann 16. - 17. January 2018 10:00 am - 10:00 pm 18. - 19. January 2018 10:00 am - 07:00 pm Monumentenstr. 33-34 10829 Berlin B2B please contact info@ellen-eisemann.com

Shops in Berlin Meyer & Nehls Bleibtreustr. 13 10623 Berlin

Hirschmann Mode Güntzelstr. 43 14057 Berlin

Maaßenstr. 12 10777 Berlin

Tatem

Oranienburger Str. 32 10117 Berlin Welfenallee 7 13465 Berlin Stargarder Str. 78 10437 Berlin

Belushis

Baseler Str. 1 12205 Berlin

Leder Art

Bölschestr. 50 1287 Berlin onlineshop: ellen-eisemann.shop To find a shop in your city - check it out: ellen-eisemann.com WB ELLEN EISEMANN.indd 1

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SHOPPING | THE GUIDE Clockwise from left: the Alexa mall; the Alexanderplatz station; The "Alex" tower and the Urania World Clock; the main entrance of department store Galeria Kaufhof.

Sightshopping If your desire to discover the city clashes with your need to shop, there's only one solution: add Alexanderplatz to your itinerary. The biggest public square in Germany houses the city's most iconic sight, the TV Tower, and is reminiscent of the Cold War years, but it is also one of Berlin's most important shopping areas.

Originally a cattle market, the Platz gained a prominent role in the 19th century with the construction of a major train station and market hall. However, its heyday came in the Golden Twenties, when it became the pulsating heart of Berlin’s nightlife together with Potsdamer Platz. Not until the 1960s did the square take on its current form, when the iconic Urania World Clock, the Friendship Fountain, and Sputnik-like TV Tower were built.

The socialist character of the architecture remains even after reunification, but the number of shops, malls, and fast food restaurants present on the Platz today are

something any of the GDR communist leaders of the past would certainly frown upon.

With its red, Art Nouveau-inspired façade, the Alexa mall (Grunerstr. 20, www.alexacentre.com) scores high in terms of convenience, but the reason why it’s so popular with hardcore shoppers comes down to its sheer size: 180 stores, including labels such as Desigual, Kookai, Zara, and a generous food court for when hunger strikes.

The cuboid-like building of Galeria Kaufhof (Alexanderplatz 9, www.galeria-kaufhof.de) right outside the station, is a five-floor, former East German department store that sells a wide range of luxury products, including fashion, beauty, sports equipment, toys, and home décor. The ground floor is a gourmet supermarket with

food and ready-made meals from all over the world. A few steps away, Primark (n. 5-7, www.primark.com) draws in a primarily younger crowd with its popular discount fashion, while Saturn (n. 9, www. saturn.de) offers four floors of consumer electronics.

Another popular store is TK Maxx, the German version of the British TJ Maxx, a multi-brand outlet store carrying warehouse leftovers.

You might find anything from luxury labels, like Moschino and Chanel, to more low-profile yet well-known ones such as Levi's, Guess, Camper's, and Petit Bateau, all sold at a discount.

For affordable sports equipment and outdoor gear, check out Decathlon (Rathausstr. 5, www.decathlon.de), stocking find just the right piece of equipment for every kind of sport.

© ISTOCK PHOTO.

When visiting a city, Annabelle Mallia likes to combine shopping with the opportunity to explore.

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SHOPPING

THE

where GUIDELINES

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Every effort is made to provide accurate and updated information.

However, information may be subject to last minute changes, so it is always advisable to call ahead.

INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS T: Telephone number S: S-Bahn, Above-ground train system U: U-Bahn, Underground train system MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 56-57.

OPENING HOURS Opening hours may vary, so it’s best to call ahead.

Shops are open Mon–Sat only, and Sunday shopping is only possible on certain Sundays of the year. This month, this will be on 28 January.

Groceries can be bought on Sundays at major train stations (Hauptbahnhof, Friedrichstraße, at Ullrich at Zoologischer Garten, or Ostbahnhof ). Shopping malls are open 10am–8pm and smaller stores only until 6pm.

TOURIST INFORMATION VisitBerlin is the official source of information on the city. Call T: 030.25002333 for specific Berlin information, or go to www.visitberlin.de for details on all information centers, events, and sights.

Tourist Info Points: Brandenburg Gate – Pariser Platz, daily 9:30am–6pm (until 7pm in summer).

Hauptbahnhof – Europaplatz 1, Level 0, daily 8am–9pm.

TV Tower Alexanderplatz – Panoramastr. 1a, daily 10am–4pm.

ingenious water clock designed by Bernard Gitton in 1982. www.europa-center-berlin.de.

Tauentzienstr. 9–12. T: 030.26497940.

U Kurfürstendamm, U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Galeria Kaufhof The former East German department store, renovated in 2006, showcases more than 600 exclusive brands and an exquisite gourmet section covering 35,000sq.m (377,000sq.ft) of space. www. galeria-kaufhof.de. Alexanderplatz 9.

T: 030.247430.

S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Galeries Lafayette The Berlin branch of the exclusive Parisian department store is developed around an extraordinary glass cone. The three circular floors rise up around this centerpiece, packed with perfumes, clothing, and accessories. The food counter offers a wide range of French specialties and there’s a corner selling teas from the famed French tea house Mariage Frères. www.galerieslafayette.de. Friedrichstr. 76–78.

T: 030.209480.

U Französische Straße. E3

Kaufhaus des Westens (KaDeWe) The biggest and oldest department store in Germany sells only products of the highest quality.

If you're short on time, the legendary gourmet food hall on the sixth floor is not to be missed. www.kadewe.de. Tauentzienstr. 21–24.

T: 030.21210. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Mall of Berlin

DEPARTMENT STORES & MALLS Alexa Hardcore shoppers love this mall for its sheer size, with over 180 stores spread over five levels. Highstreet retailers are well represented, and a large food court obliges when hunger overwhelms your desire to shop. www.alexacentre.com.

Grunerstr. 20. T: 030.269340121.

S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

BIKINI BERLIN

© ISTOCK PHOTO.

BIKINI BERLIN combines shopping with a fun and relaxing experience. The historical building complex in Berlin's west end makes for interesting strolls, also offering beautiful views of the Berlin zoo and its animals, which can be admired both from indoors as well as from the rooftop terrace.

But the main attraction is the curated selection of shops, which include individual pop-up boxes frequently showcasing new designers, popular brands, and many design stores. www.bikiniberlin. de. Budapester Str. 38-50. T: 030.55496455.

S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

270 shops, 270 apartments, gyms, and pedestrian areas define the new Mall of Berlin on Leipziger Platz, a world of shopping opportunities a stone’s throw from the city’s main tourist attractions. www.mallofberlin.de.Leipziger Platz 12.

U Mohrenstraße. E3

Potsdamer Platz Arkaden This large shopping center offers more than 120 shops over three floors, stocking everything from clothes and accessories to electronics and groceries. Its restaurants and bars, both inside and in surrounding streets, also make it a very popular meeting spot. www.potsdamer-platz-arkaden.de.

Alte Potsdamer Str. 7. T: 030.2559270.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

FASHION Annette Görtz Inspired by geometric lines and the use of "noncolors" such as black, beige, white, and gray, fashion brand Annette Görtz combines comfort with understated elegance. www.annettegoertz. com. T: 030 20074613. Markgrafenstr. 42.

U Stadtmitte. E3

Designer Outlet Berlin

Basler

Your favorite designer brands with discounts up to 70 percent, at just 30 minutes from the city center. Also features cafes and restaurants, a children’s play area, free parking and more that 100 international brands. Shuttle bus from center on Fri-Sat. Bring a copy of Where Berlin to the office and get a further 10% off. Mon–Thu 10am–7pm, Fri and Sat to 8pm. www.designeroutletberlin.com.

Alter Spandauer Weg 1. T: 033234.9040.

Take the regional train to Elstal. Off Map

Founded in Berlin in 1936 and now sold around the globe, Basler stands for femininity and versatility, aiming to make women of all ages and sizes look and feel good. From everyday style to business casual to something elegant for a night out, you’ll find plenty to add to your wardrobe. Second store at Schloßstr.

28. www.basler-fashion.com. Kurfürstendamm 220.

T: 030.88472949.

U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Europa Center

Sumptuous, elegant, somewhat extravagant.

Beatrice Von Tresckow women's clothes are lively and colorful, an eye-catching addition to

This shopping mall on the Ku’damm offers a range of goods from over 70 shops. Check out the

LUXURY BRANDS AIGNER www.aignermunich.com.

Kurfürstendamm 50. T: 030.88683668.

U Uhlandstraße. B4

BALLY www.bally.com. Kurfürstendamm 52.

T: 030.88707688. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BOGGI MILANO www.boggi.it. Kurfürstendamm 195-196.

T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BOSS www.hugoboss.com. Friedrichstr. 165.

T: 030.20613890. U Französische Straße. E3

BUCHERER www.bucherer.com. Friedrichstr. 45.

T: 030.2041049. U Kochstraße. E4

BULGARI www.bulgari.com. Kurfürstendamm 190-192. T: 030.8857920.

U Uhlandstraße. B4

EMPORIO ARMANI www.armani.com. Friedrichstr. 169-170.

T: 030 20615660. U Stadtmitte. E3

CHOPARD www.chopard.com Kurfürstendamm 54.

T: 030 70096980. U Uhlandstraße. B4

ESCADA www.escada.com. Kurfürstendamm 195.

T: 030.88923815. U Uhlandstraße. B4

MAURICE LACROIX www.mauricelacroix.de. Friedrichstr. 166.

T: 030.33024852.

U Französische Straße. E3

MCM www.mcmworldwide.com. Rosenthaler Str. 38. T: 030.28493793.

S Hackescher Markt. F2

ROLEX www.rolex.com. Kurfürstendamm 184.

T: 030.55669010.

U Adenauerplatz. B4

WEMPE www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184.

T: 030.8826878.

U Adenauerplatz. B4

Beatrice von Tresckow

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Delicate colors with lots of personality.

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5 6 1. Unützer, Giesebrechtstr. 10. 2. Marc Cain, Mall of Berlin, Voßstr. 35.

3. Marc Cain, Mall of Berlin, Voßstr. 35. 4. Codello, Mall of Berlin, Voßstr. 35.

5. Unützer, Giesebrechtstr. 10. 6. Codello, Mall of Berlin, Voßstr. 35.

7. Marc Cain, Mall of Berlin, Voßstr. 35. 8. CINQUE, Rochstr. 1.

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SHOPPING any wardrobe. www.beatricevontresckow.com, Leibnizstr. 60. T: 030 308318. U Adenauer Platz. C4

Be Edgy With rule-breaking elements and a timeless soul, this Berlin-born fashion label makes perfectly cut leather jackets and a variety of accessories meant for rebellious and cheeky boys and girls. www.be.edgy.de. Bleibtreustr. 27.

T: 0176.61137540. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Boggi Milano Italian elegance for men. Specializes in highquality suits that are formal while also remaining comfortable, and also carries a sport casual collection. www.boggi.com. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

By Anne

By Anne offers designer fashion from sought-after European labels such as cool Danish brand NÜ, Beate Heymann Street Couture, playful Spanish label Uno Piu Uno, and bags from By Lou Lou, together with other accessories to complement your new outfit. Unique art pieces are also on sale to help you express your individuality in the home or garden. www.byanne.de. Rosenthaler Str. 31.

T: 030.28879436. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Cotélac The French just have that certain je ne sais quoi when it comes to style. Laid-back, breezy,

comfortable, and nonetheless elegant, the Cotélac collections capture that quintessential French style in clothing and accessories for both women and men. Brand hallmarks are fine fabrics, subtle details and unique prints created with special dye and fabric techniques. Mulackstr. 6.

T: 030 53604074. www.cotelac.fr.

U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

variety of fashion items with a personality, for women "who know who they are and like to dress well." Brands include Piazza Sempione, Zenggi, Cambio, Le Tricot Perugia, and more, and the selection ranges from dresses and skirts to accessories like shoes and bags. www.finns-mode. de. Bleibtreustr. 47. T: 030.8832202.

U Uhlandstraße B4

Ellen Eisemann

Ganni Berlin

Founded in Copenhagen, Ganni carries easyFeminine and chic dresses , skirts, tops made for to-wear pieces for women with an attitude the Audrey Hepburns of today. Simple, who like to mix things up. Elegant geometric cuts and eye-catching colors and effortless clothing, lingerie, and prints combine a timeless style accessories, and shoes. www.ganni. with a glamorous vintage look. com. Alte Schönhauser Str. 6. T: www.elleneisemann.com.

030.27590966. U Weinmeisterstr. F2 Monumentenstraße 33-34. 030 The first set of traffic 78898595. S Yorckstraße. D5 lights in Europe was Gobi Cashmere

designer depot This boutique in Mitte offers selected designer fashion, shoes, and accessories for men and ladies at up to 50 percent off. There are more than 30 international labels such as Calvin Klein, Iceberg, Roberto Cavalli, and Valentino. www.designer-depot.net. Rochstr. 2.

T: 030.28046700. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

installed in 1924 on Potsdamer Platz.

Finn's Mode This tiny store near Savignyplatz stocks a large

The first European store of this luxury Mongolian cashmere manufacturer opened in December 2016 to bring organic, high-quality cashmere fashion and fabrics produced in Asia to the highest standards. www.shop-gobi. com/en/. Knesebeckstr. 30. T: 030.22466513.

U Uhlandstraße. E2

Goldsteg Designer Outlet This outlet store carries one-of-a-kind fashion pieces, exciting accessories and high-quality Italian leather bags by a wide range of designers. www.goldsteg.de. Carmerstr. 8.

T: 030 51307933. S Savignyplatz. B4

Marc Cain A worldwide premium brand for women’s fashion with its own production facility in Germany.

Marc Cain effortlessly combines aesthetics and innovation in design and materials, making a declaration of love to women. www.marc-cain.com.

Friedrichstr. 61. See website for more locations.

T: 030.20077219. U Stadtmitte. E3

MaxMara One of the oldest and most prestigious Italian fashion houses, known for its quality craftsmanship and ready-to-wear clothing. www.maxmara.com.

Friedrichstr. 184, T: 030.20074945. U Stadtmitte.

E3; Kurfürstendamm 178.

T: 030.8852545.

U Adenauerplatz. B4

Michael Kors

A Hat For Every Head Many people think they don’t look good in hats, but as Berlin-based modiste Susanne Gäbel would say, they probably haven’t found the right hat. Gäbel opened her small manufactory Salon Hüte & Accessories in 1998, just off Berlin's luxury shopping strip Kurfürstendamm, and since then she has been dishing out expert advice to her customers. Stepping inside is like entering a Parisian atelier studio, with the most beautiful hats and hair jewelry on display for clients to try on. The selection ranges from low-key pieces for everyday life to bolder statement making designs for that special occasion (a horse race in Ascot, pehaps?). Think fascinators, floppy hats, fedoras, trilbys, and turbans – all created with great attention to detail and a sense of the “good old hat times” from the 1920s through to the 1950s. Diagonally opposite you’ll also find her salon for men, which she opened in 2010 with the same nostalgic concept. Ladies: Mommsenstr. 69. T: 030 88676492. Men: Mommsenstr. 2.

T: 030 60958110. www.hut-salon.de

The New York-based designer Michael Kors is known for his ready-to-wear fashion and luxury accessories – bags, watches, jewelry, shoes, and other award-winning designs. www.michaelkors. com. Kurfürstendamm 219. T: 030.81825760.

U Uhlandstraße. C4; Rosenthaler Str. 37.

T: 030.24088690. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Michael Sontag The Berlin designer sets himself apart with his masterful draping techniques, creating simple yet flattering feminine silhouettes out of flowing fabrics with equal measures of elegance and sex appeal. www.michaelsontag.com.

Muskauer Str. 41. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

Onepiece A popular Norwegian brand, best known for its jumpsuits, beloved by celebrities. Comfortable pants, hoodies, shirts, and dresses complete the offering. www.onepiece.com. Litfaßplatz 1.

T: 030.27580644. S Hackescher Markt. F3

Patrick Hellmannt Among the most successful luxury brands in the fashion world, Patrick Hellmann stands for www.wheretraveler.com 23

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t h e fa s h i o n authority www.premiumgroup.berlin

2018 berlin

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SHOPPING timelessness, elegant designs, quality materials, and extravagant details. There are also clothes

by Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior, and Dolce & Gabbana. www.patrick-hellmann.com.

Kurfürstendamm 190–192. T: 030.88487711.

U Adenauerplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

to casual, from business to sporty. Brands include Calvin Klein, Black Kaviar, Lee Jeans, and Hugo Boss. www.wormland.de. Mall of Berlin. Direct entrance from Voßstraße. T: 030.229088200.

U Mohrenstraße. E3

Wellensteyn

Founded in Germany 60 years ago as a brand for workers, Wellensteyn is now a high-class label This Swiss company creates fashion for men who for quality technical jackets that are also stylish, are on their way up or, as they say, for young as well as other items for the outdoor life. men with big plans. Concentrating on www.wellensteyn.com. Europa Center. clarity, the Strellson philosophy is Tauentzienstr. 9-, 12. T: 030.23927186. based on clear cuts and top quality U Kurfürstendamm. C4. Grunerstr. 20. for their suits and other urban wears, S+U Alexanderplatz. F3 as well as transparent values and T: 030.27583926.

The quiet Suarezstraße work attitudes. www.strellson.com. in Charlottenburg Friedrichstr. 58. T: 40744747.

Mall of Berlin. Direct entrance from is the place to go for U Stadtmitte. E3 Voßstraße. T: 030.229088200. antiques.

U Mohrenstraße. E3 Zalando Outlet The popular online shopping fashion market Rebecca Store has a large outlet store in Berlin, featuring 1000 With a unique boudoir atmosphere, this concept square meters of fashion and accessories from the store is a harmonious medley of European and world's top brands, sold at even lower prices. www.

American designers, including Yigal Azrouel, Vera zalando.de. Köpenicker Str. 20.

Wang, and Gas Bijoux. All items are personally T: 0800.3300996. U Schlesiches Tor. G4 selected by owner Rebecca Zehden on her many trips abroad. www.rebecca-berlin.de. Alte Schönhauser Str. 41. T: 030 34620780.

U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Strellson

Strellson This Swiss company creates fashion for men who are on their way up or, as they say, for young men with big plans. Concentrating on clarity, the Strellson philosophy is based on clear cuts and top quality for their suits and other urban wears, as well as transparent values and work attitudes. www.strellson.com. Münzstr. 8. T: 030.24724042.

U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Talbot Runhof Designers Johnny Talbot and Adrian Runhof launched their label in Munich but have since gone global, branching out from glamorous evening gowns into everyday outfits and accessories. Discover the comprehensive range of dresses, separates, and knitwear, plus shoes and accessories in their Charlottenburg boutique.

A brand hallmark is the complex, precise cuts and unusual seam placement used to create feminine, flattering silhouettes. Schlüterstr.

50. T: 030 23363170. www.talbotrunhof.com. U Uhlandstraße, S Savignyplatz. B4

Trüffelschwein The Trüffelschwein man is never overdressed – he simply looks good, with a collection of small niche brands from London, Paris, and New York. www. trueffelschweinberlin.com. Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 21. T: 030.70221225. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

UNIQLO Originally a chain of roadside stores in suburban Japan, this brand quickly became an Asian sensation and has now expanded to trendy urban hubs around the globe. Their Berlin flagship store has three floors of quality basics and fashion for women, men, and children. www.uniqlo.com.

Tauentzienstr. 7. T: 030 29028260.

U Wittenbergplatz. C4; Leipziger Platz 16.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. E3; Rosenthaler Str. 42; S Hackescher Markt. F3

Wormland This men’s boutique carries the best German and international brands, catering to a demanding man and offering a variety of styles, from classy

SHOES & ACCESSORIES bagatt Milano

the designs range from classic to contemporary and everything in between. Most BREE bags are made with natural leather, but the company is also the forerunner in the use of long-lasting synthetic materials, employed in the bike courier bags. www. bree.com. Kurfürstendamm 36. T: 030.92218263. U Uhlandstraße. C4; KaDeWe, Tauentzienstr. 21–24.

T: 030.34394754. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Boots & Shoes With their air-cushioned sole, lace-up style, and yellow stitching, the popular Doc Martens boots launched in the UK in 1960 wasc based on a prototype by German army doctor Klaus Märtens.

Check out many designs and colors of the famous boots at Boots & Shoes, from the classic 1460 model, to shiny blue, or floral print. Ballerinas, booties, clothing, and accessories round off the offering. www.drmartens.com. Dircksenstr. 49.

T: 0800.2070700. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Dainese Not only one of the most trusted names in motorcycle protective gear, Dainese is also the place to get kitted out for equestrian and winter sports. Their famed specialty is stylish, sleek, Italian-designed motorcycle wear such as jackets, boots, and gloves, bringing together durable, timeless leather with modern materials such as Kevlar and titanium. www.dainese.com.

Hohenzollerndamm 12. T: 03029672222.

U Hohenzollernplatz. C4

Falke Flagship Store

Bagatt epitomizes the appreciation for beauty for which Italy is known. With its core philosophy of fine Italian craftsmanship, bagatt Milano applies the highest quality standards to its collection of shoes, handbags and accessories. Browse the shelves for contemporary, comfortable looks for everyday wear or elegant heels. Email: bagattberlino@gmail.com.

Bikini Berlin: Budapester Str. 38–50. T:030 25759777. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

This legwear shop caters to both men and women with all kinds of socks, stockings, tights, knee-highs, and anything that will keep your legs warm. They also have a good selection of sports accessories and knitwear, as well as delightful kids’ socks. www.falke.com. Kurfürstendamm 36.

T: 030.88553565. U Uhlandstraße. B4; Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Str. 12. T: 030.20647995.

U Mohrenstraße. E3

BREE

Michael Kors

For more than three decades, bag manufacturer BREE has stood for an intelligent symbiosis of design, function, and quality. BREE bags are useful, reliable and attractive at the same time, and

The New York-based designer Michael Kors is known for his ready-to-wear fashion and luxury accessories – bags, watches, jewelry, shoes, and other award-winning designs. www.michaelkors.

Essential Designs Say you need some smart storage solutions to organize your busy life: where do you go? Sweden of course!

Scandinavians are masters of organized minimalism, and Swedish store Granit offers basic objects in home design to make your life easier and cleaner, but still warm and attractive. With neutral colors, modern forms that blend in with any type of decor, Granit objects match all styles but also make up a style of their own.

Browse through wall calendars, files and folders, wooden stationery, and labeling equipment, as well as kitchen utensils, glass jars, and lamps. Tauentzienstr. 1. www.granit.com

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com. Kurfürstendamm 219. T: 030.81825760.

U Uhlandstr. C4; Rosenthaler Str. 37.

T: 030.24088690. F2

New Era Flagship Store Looking for a new cap? This is the largest and fastest growing headwear producer in the world. There are more than 1000 styles over two floors, ranging from the classic baseball cap to modern designs, including their bestseller 59fifty, popular with the skater and hip hop crowd. www. neweracap.com. An der Spandauer Brücke 7.

T: 030.27890578. Hackescher Markt. F2

Unützer Elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacturing are what sets Unützer apart from many other shoe brands. Founded 25 years ago, this shoe label stands for elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacture. The boots, pumps, and ballerinas are all made in a small town near Venice according to the century-old Italian tradition. www. unuetzer.com. Giesebrechtstr. 10.

T: 030.88916710. U Uhlandstraße. C4

JEWELRY & WATCHES Aris Diamond Since 1906, ARIS has been specializing in diamond jewelry, delivering everything from pendants, necklaces, and earrings, to fabulous engagement rings. Got a special occasion coming up? Check up their new shop in the Mall of Berlin for refined pieces. www.arisdiamond.com. www.mallofberlin. de. Leipziger Platz 12.

U Mohrenstraße. E3

ROLEX Boutique One of the most famous brands in luxury, Rolex has been making wristwatches since 1905. First created in England, the company soon moved to Switzerland, and its perfect timepieces are recognized worldwide as the ultimate symbol of elegance and refinement. www.rolex.de. www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184.

T: 030.55669010. U Uhlandstraße. E2

Selected shops for the savvy shopper

Wempe One of the oldest family businesses in Germany is renowned for its passion for fine jewelry and watches, and for its precision timepieces. www. wempe.de. Kurfürstendamm 215. See website for more locations.

T: 030.8826878. U Uhlandstraße.

C4; Friedrichstr. 82. T: 030.20399920.

U Französische Straße. E3

HOME DÉCOR Home on Earth Located in the Hackesche Höfe, this store offers home décor items made from natural materials combined with Scandinavian design. Founded by a German-Danish pair in Barcelona, this is the first store to hit Germany. www.homeonearth.com.

Hackesche Höfe/Hof V, Rosenthaler Str. 40-41.

T: 030 2834354. S Hackescher Markt F2 Once upon a time in Berlin, a German king bought a local porcelain factory, and Königliche PorzellanManufaktur was born. Today, the royally founded company is known as KPM Berlin for short, but still makes exquisite, world-renowned porcelain tableware and decorative goods. At its Tiergarten headquarters, the oldest still-running manufactory in the city, visitors can take a tour, take a break

©ISTOCK

KPM Berlin

®

Berlin wheretraveler.com

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Coat by Annette Görtz (Markgrafenstr. 42), gloves by Marc Cain (Mall of Berlin, Voßstr. 35).

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with a lifting effect. www.babor.de. Französische Str. 48. T: 030. 20622222. U Französische Straße. E3

Kunstsupermarkt

This thermal complex in the spa town of Bad Saarow offers various treatments including detox mud baths and massages, and has various indoor and outdoor pools. www.bad-saarow.de. Am Kurpark 1. Bad Saarow. T: 033631.8680. Off map

Pylones These household products are created to add a spark to our daily lives, filling it with color and fun.

The designers choose zoomorphic themes. www.pylones.com. Kurfürstendamm 225 (check website for other store locations).

T: 030.92362488. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Rosenthal One of Germany's most famous white porcelain manufacturers, Rosenthal is synonymous with impeccable quality and high value in tableware and art. Kurfürstendamm. T: 030.88681574. U Uhlandstraße, U Kurfürstendamm. C4

BEAUTY & WELLNESS Babor Specializing in beauty driven by science, Babor creates skincare solutions for every woman’s unique needs. Top-sellers at the flagship store include vitamin-rich skin serums and deluxe foundations

Bad Saarow Therme

Catherine Nail Salon The popular Catherine nailcare brand now has a nail salon here in Berlin. Stop by or make an appointment for some grooming time between shopping and sightseeing. www.catherine-berlin.de.

Knesebeck Str. 35. T: 030. 55214475.

U Uhlandstraße. C4

Flaconi A large perfumerie carrying all the best perfume brands as well a myriads of products for the skin and hair as well as makeup. www.flaconi.de. Leipziger Str. 36. T: 030.20674990. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Frau Tonis Parfum The perfume boutique offers scents inspired by the city, like Pure Violet, originally composed for Marlene Dietrich.

Take a scent test to find the fragrances that suit you best or ask customize your own bottle. www. frau-tonis-parfum. com. Zimmerstr. 13.

T: 030.20215310.

U Kochstraße. E4

34 36 38 40 42 44

44 46 48 50 52 54

CHILDREN 24 25.5 27 28 29 30.5

in the café, and – of course – shop for beautiful hand-painted porcelain. www.kpm-berlin.com.

Wegelystraße 1. T: 030 390090. S Tiergarten. C3 More than 5000 original works of art made by young artists, with prices ranging between €59 and €330. The event's aim is to help aspiring artists become known while also opening the art market to art lovers with smaller budgets.

Ever since it was launched in 1998, the "art supermarket" has been gathering more and more fans every year because, as its creators say, art makes people happy. Open until 27 January (Mon–Sat 11am–8pm) as a pop-up store inside shopping center The Q. Free entry. Q 205 (The Q.), Friedrichstr. 67–70. www.kunstsupermarkt.de.

U Französische Straße. E3

34 36 38 40 42 44

MEN (CHEST) 41 42 43 45 46 47

CHILDREN 7 8 9 10 11 12

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Parfumsalon An exclusive perfume boutique that has been offering fragrances for more than five decades. The shop's selection include rarities and special aromas, all hand-picked by owner and perfume expert Mario Worms. www.parfumsalon.de. Uhlandstr.

173-174. T: 030.8827306. E3

Tropical Islands Built inside a former Soviet aircraft hanger about an hour from Berlin, this waterpark offers 26-degree temperatures and cocktails on the beach all year round. Explore the rainforest, tropical village, lagoon and sea, waterslides, and whitewater river. www.tropical-islands.de. Tropical-Islands-Allee 1, Krausnick. T: 035477 605050. Off map

ELECTRONICS Sennheiser This German brand stands for innovation in the world of audio electronics, from microphones and speakers to headsets and more. The cutting-edge wireless headphones in particular are prized by pro musicians, DJs, music fans, and gamers alike.

Test out all the latest models at the Charlottenburg store. www. sennheiser.com. Tauentzienstr.

17. T: 030.23630162. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

The luxury fragrances of The Different Company are available at Parfumsalon Berlin (this page).

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The Charlottenburg boutique offers fragrance lovers a break from the everyday, with scents you won't find in your neighborhood department store. Staff are renowned for their expertise, so come prepared to ask your toughest beauty questions. The cosmetics and personal-care products for men and women are as singular as the perfume selection.

CATHERINE NAIL SALON Make a good first impression with beautifully manicured hands. This hotspot for hand and nail cosmetics hinges upon expert beauticians and top-quality products from the Catherine Nail Collection. Delivering to beauty salons worldwide, the brand is renowned in nail design and presents their selection now in their own studio just off Berlin’s luxury shopping strip, the Ku’damm.

Knesebeckstr. 35-37.

T: 030 55214475 www.catherine-berlin.de

Bleibtreustr. 42. T: 030 679672050 www.bellerebelle.de

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PLANET BERLIN Set yourself apart from the crowd with fashion and accessories from Planet Berlin, described as "luxury with a touch of rock and roll." They stock classic labels such as Converse and Dr Marten's, as well as new labels like le temps des cerises, whose men's and women's jeans have already achieved cult status. Get ready for your next glamorous night of clubbing.

Schlüterstr. 35.

T: 030 8852717 SHOP STOP

UNÜTZER

Elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacturing are what sets Unützer apart from many other shoe brands. Founded 25 years ago, this shoe label quickly earned international fame thanks to the excellent quality of its products, which are made in a small town near Venice according to the century-old Italian tradition.

MEYER & NEHLS Spoil yourself at this intimate boutique. Geared towards self-confident, independent women, Meyer & Nehls stocks unique pieces for that special occasion, as well as business and casual attire. If you are looking for fashion advice, owners and style experts Lars and Frank Nehls are there to help.

Bleibtreustr. 13. T: 030 88678578 www.meyerundnehls.de

Gold chains, tassels, and striking colors are some of the shoes’ decorative elements, and materials include the whole range of luxury, from the finest calf leather to exotic skins, including crocodile and ostrich, all personally selected by Fritz Unützer himself. Walk into the Charlottenburg boutique and try on a pair of boots, pumps, or ballerinas, all perfect accessories to any glamorous and feminine outfit.

Giesebrechtstr. 10/corner Kurfürstendamm.

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wonderful to wander bikini berlin CONTEMPORARY FASHION, FABULOUS FOOD AND GREAT DESIGN American Vintage | Artek | Bensimon | Carhartt | Closed | Gant | Kusmi Tea Labo.Art | Lakrids by Johan Bülow | Mac Cosmetics | Mammut | Mykita | Premiata Reisenthel | Samsøe & Samsøe | Scotch & Soda | Teufel | The North Face | Vans ... and many more exceptional stores and pop up boxes.

Bikini Berlin, Budapester Straße 42– 50, 10787 Berlin Zoologischer Garten

www.bikiniberlin.de

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More than a century of precision craftsmanship comes to the Ku'damm in the form of Germany's first Rolex Boutique.

The flagship store offers a distinctive experience, including an exclusive setting and world-class service.

This exclusive perfume boutique has been offering extraordinary fragrances since the 1960s. Mario Worms is an expert in perfume counseling, offering advice on the perfect scent for every client, and the shop's selection includes rare bottles and unusual aromas.

Uhlandstr. 173-174. T: 030 8827306 www.parfumsalon.de

Sennheiser’s first official brand store is located in the heart of Berlin’s City-West.

Experience leadership in audio on 120sq.m., including cutting-edge headphones and microphones. Visit us and take a piece of Sennheiser home.

Open Mon-Sat 10am–8pm.

Tauentzienstr. 17. T: 030 23630162 www.sennheiser.com

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The famous Parisian department store brings French charm and style to Berlin with five floors of fashion, accessories, beauty products and delicacies.

Galeries Lafayette is located in the Quartier 207 where you can also shop at Gucci, Opera‘s, Le Nails, Sathea, Cashmere House, Manon Chocolaterie, La Librairie and Galeries Lafayette Outlet.

Friedrichstr. 76–78. T: 030 209480. galerieslafayette.de SHOP STOP

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Beauty meets science at this skincare institute. Owner and cosmetics expert Christiane Lingner offers high-level treatments such as deluxe facials, skin analyses, purifying sessions, manicures, pedicures, as well as intensive and strengthening treatments for the gentlemen.

Head to the flagship store for vitamin-rich serums and foundations with a lifting effect.

Französische Str. 48. T: 030 20622222 www.babor-berlin.de

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FRAU TONIS PARFUM This perfume manufactory has been described as Berlin’s most unique perfumery.

Try classics such as Linde Berlin, or Pure Violet, Marlene Dietrich’s favorite fragrance.

For something more personal, join other scent aficionados from all over the world and create your own, private perfume.

Zimmerstr. 13 (Checkpoint Charlie).

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HALLHUBER

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Deichmann

Hollister

Marc O’Polo

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Rich & Royal

THOMAS SABO

Mavi

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daughters

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Dogo Shoes

Hunkemöller

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Engelsrufer & Co.

Jack & Jones

Esprit

C&A

MANKIND

Calvin Klein Jeans

JD Sports

NAVYBOOT

FALKE

KARL LAGERFELD

Nike

FASHION CLUB

Kingz

NYX PROFESSIONAL

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Konplott

MAKEUP

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Oakley

Airfield

CALZEDONIA

ARIS Art of

Casano

Foot Locker Fossil

Diamond

Change

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CINQUE

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Bershka

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Clarks Ecco

BREE

Codello

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Triumph

Sarar

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UN1DEUX2TROIS3

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Undiz

SHOE CITY

Vans

Sidestep

Olymp

Levi’s

French Connection

Trigema

Salamander

Eterna Fashion & Accessories 7 FOR ALL

Muji

VERO MODA

Sizeer

Palmers

WE-Fashion

PANDORA

SNIPES

Wigglesteps

Passionata

Sportalm Kitzbühel

WORMLAND

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Pepe Jeans

Sunglass Hut

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Lief!

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...and the biggest Foodhall.

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18 Jan. 22 Feb. 01 Mar. 22 Mar. 10 May

Follies Cat On A Hot Tin Roof Hamlet Julius Caesar Macbeth

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COTÉLAC The French have that certain je ne sais quoi when it comes to style. Laid-back, breezy, comfortable, and nonetheless elegant, the Cotélac collections are created by Raphaëlle Cavalli and capture that quintessential French style in clothing and accessories for both women and men.

Brand hallmarks are special dyes and folding techniques, inlays, unique prints, and exquisite detail when it comes to treating fabrics.

With over 100 boutiques in France and abroad, you can check out the latest Fall-Winter 2017/18 collection in their store on Mulackstraße, Berlin’s so-called designer central.

Mulackstr. 6. T: 030 53604074 www.cotelac.fr

BOOTS & SHOES With their air-cushioned sole, lace-up style, and yellow stitching, the popular Dr. Martens boots have been a fashion statement since 1960. At Boots & Shoes, you can choose from many designs and colors of the legendary boot, plus other brands such as Hunter and Converse.

Dircksenstr. 49. T: 080 02070700 www.drmartens.com SHOP STOP

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With a unique boudoir atmosphere, this concept store is a harmonious medley of European and American designers, including Alexander Wang, Vera Wang, Tibi and Alice+Olivia, and all items are personally selected by owner Rebecca Zehden on her many trips abroad.

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Lala Berlin Wolfen Germany Boutique Hoho Berlin E MULA VOLK TRASS S T S C U ER LA KS Cotélac AUG Greta NG S TRASSE tore & Luis Ka STE tje INS Trippen TRA sC SSE afé GIPSS Gr TRAS SE ün Onitsuka L REBECCA HIRT O i Be eb SOP ENS n S es hr Skunkfunk HIE TRA he kin NST SSE r d ma Weinmeisterstr. Freitag RAS 11 n SE Trüffelschwein Ma vi Oakley Promobo MÜ Scotch & Soda Michael Kors NZ STR Ad MÜHLE Store Berlin MCM ASS ida As Dr IK We Anine Bing E s e k Home on earth Bu ani ykor KS kda designer depot a n y f UN falo Hackesche Höfe IQ & Shoes LO Boots Volution Sports Mykita KSENSTRASSE Riccardo Cartillone DIRC MO Frosch & Königin NB IJO New Era Flagship Store UP L. SE Hackescher Markt TRAS HS C RO Onepiece Concept Store ALMST

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HACKESCHER MARKT AND MITTE

SHOP STOP

KATJES VEGGIE CAFÉ GRÜN-OHR

NEW ERA FLAGSHIP STORE

Sweets, Coffee & Vegan Bakery! This is the perfect place to try Katjes’ vegetarian-friendly & gelatinfree gummy candy range, enjoy homemade vegan treats with freshly squeezed juice or a steaming cup of coffee, and meet old and new friends in a lovely and welcoming atmosphere!

Looking for a new cap? The world's leading headwear brand is now the official headwear of the NBA. Check out the latest New Era NBA collection at the New Era store in Berlin.

Since 2002, this fashion outlet boutique has been offering high class fashion and accessories from major international labels at up to 50% off the original price. Check out their selection, which ranges from unique pieces to dressy garments. Tax Free available.

An der Spandauer Brücke 7.

T: 030 27890578 de.neweracap.eu

Rochstrasse 2. T: 030 28046700 www.facebook.com/ddmitte www.designer-depot.net

Rosenthaler Str. 32. T: 030 97894702 www.cafegruenohr.de

DESIGNER DEPOT

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THE GUIDE | SIGHTSEEING

Building Blocs

© ISTOCK

No need to visit Moscow to experience communist architecture.

Solveig Steinhardt explored East Berlin's most iconic buildings.

History has given Berlin an eclectic mix of architectural styles, but if there’s one that embodies the political framework of its time more than all the others, it’s the socialist style of the GDR. Caught between the Bauhaus aesthetic and the Soviet impulse towards intimidating grandness, Berlin’s remaining East German buildings are a fascinating history lesson, and despite their raw, sometimes unattractive appearance, they are an important testimony of an era.

The most iconic example of GDR architecture is Karl-Marx-Allee, a monumental boulevard built in response to the West's Kurfürstendamm. Karl-Marx-Allee was conceived as a modern, central street, with shops, restaurants, and a large cinema (the Kino International). The eight-story, wedding-

cake-style buildings inspired by Stalin's socialist classicism were meant for party officials, with spacious and modern apartments featuring elevators and other luxuries.

For those citizens who weren’t important enough to deserve the top-level housing of Karl-Marx-Allee, the government developed the Plattenbau, a blocky building unit built with prefabricated slabs of concrete and inexpensive materials. There were various designs available, but the most common unit, called P2, had five to 11 stories with two apartments per floor. These units could be repeated various times to create gigantic blocks, which were sometimes built as imposing parallel towers. Examples of this type of arrangement can be found around U-Bahnhof Tierpark in Lichtenberg. A

Plattenbau feel also pervades the Tierpark, East Berlin’s zoo. Built after the city's division had left East Berlin without a zoo, the park features animal houses that look like a miniature version of East German social housing, built with prefabricated concrete and very different from the luxurious moresque-style of the giraffe house at West Berlin's zoo.

Not too far from the Tierpark is the Stasi Museum (Ruschestr. 103, www.stasimuseum. de), which once housed the headquarters of the East German secret police. While the exhibition inside gives an overview of the GDR's methods of repression, the building is a good example of an East German office, with its original furniture both in the exhibition rooms and in the cafeteria. www.wheretraveler.com 35

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SIGHTSEEING

MAJOR SIGHTS

www.hkw.de. John-Foster-Dulles-Allee 10.

T: 030.397870. U Bundestag. D3

The “Alex” TV Tower The 368m- (1027ft)-high TV tower of Alexanderplatz can be seen from almost any point in the city and has been iconic of Berlin ever since it was built by the GDR in 1969. The giant steel-clad sphere atop houses a revolving restaurant and café as well as a viewing platform. The elevator ride lasts 40 seconds. Arrive early to avoid lines. Daily 9am–midnight (Nov–Feb from 10am). €13/8.50. www.tv-turm.de. Panoramastr. 1a.

T: 030.24757537. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Berliner Dom The city’s neo-Renaissance cathedral was begun in the late 1700s, finished in 1905, and renovated in simplified form after WWII damage. Walk up 267 steps for glorious views of the city from the dome, or stay on the ground floor to gaze at elaborate sarcophagi containing the royal remains of Hohenzollern family members. Thanks to the church’s perfect acoustics and a 7200-pipe organ, the Dom is also an important concert venue.

Mon–Sat 9am–8pm, Sun 9am–8pm (winter until 7pm). €7/5. www.berlinerdom.de.

Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269119. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Brandenburg Gate MUST SEE The definitive Berlin

Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche This church’s bombed-out bell tower has been an anti-war memorial and a symbol of West Berlin ever since its ruins were restored to their present state in 1957. The old church’s ruins now host an exhibition of before and after photos documenting its former splendor and showing the Ku’damm before the bombs. Look up to admire what is left of the old mosaic. Open daily from 9am to 6pm. www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de.

Breitscheidplatz. T: 030.2185023. U Zoologischer Garten, Kurfürstendamm. C4

Nikolaiviertel and Knoblauchhaus

The Nikolaiviertel is where Berlin was born, and the area still retains its ancient character, although most of the buildings in the narrow medieval alleys are replicas of destroyed originals that dated back to the 1200s. The late-Gothic Nikolaikirche, Berlin’s oldest surviving building, is now a museum.

Other points of interest include the Ephraim Palais Museum and the Biedermeier-style Knoblauchhaus, a 19th-century middleclass townhouse that escaped WWII damage. Knoblauch Haus: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. www.knoblauchhaus.de. Poststr. 23.

In 1995, artist Christo T: 030.240020171. S+U wrapped up the Alexanderplatz. F3

icon, Carl Gotthard Langhans’ Reichstag in 100,000 Neoclassical triumphal arch has sq.m. of polypropylene Potsdamer Platz witnessed the city’s best and worst fabric.

Before the war, Potsdamer Platz moments, from the military parades of was the city’s beating heart, with the Third Reich to the Wall being raised department stores, banks, internationally and torn down. Formerly behind GDR known theaters, dance halls, and cafés. WWII borders, today the gate acts mainly as the bombs obliterated 80 percent of the square, which backdrop for festivals, New Year’s Eve parties, and was left in limbo for a few years and then enclosed tourist snapshots. U Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3 in a no-man’s-land between the Wall and barbed wire fences. The square came back to life in the Charlottenburg Palace The summer home of Sophie Charlotte, wife of 1990s as a modern reinterpretation of its original King Friedrich I of Prussia, reflects the grandeur of self. Divided in three slices, it includes the Sony the Hohenzollern family. Begun in 1695, the luxury building with its central plaza; Daimler City, home Baroque complex consists of a main building with to a large shopping mall; and the Manhattan-style a central cupola and two side wings, added in later Beisheim Center building. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3 years, that enclose a courtyard. The picturesque Reichstag and Foster’s Glass Cupola park surrounding the castle includes a formal MUST SEE In the last 100 years, the massive French-style garden, English garden with pond neo-Renaissance building, now the seat of German and statues, belvedere, and mausoleum. The Parliament, has been bombed, set on fire, wrapped castle hosts temporary art and history exhibitions. by artist Christo, and renovated by Lord Norman Tue–Sun 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm).

Foster. Climb the glass cupola for a 360-degree view €12/8. www.spsg.de. Spandauer Damm 20-24. of the city, then gaze down at parliament in session.

T: 030.9694200. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3 The plenary hall can be visited only on guided tours.

Hackesche Höfe Cupola: Daily 8am–midnight by appointment only.

An intricate series of interconnected courtyards Free. Register on website; it is recommended to do provides an example of early-19th-century German so at least three days prior to your visit. Audio tours Secessionist style. The first courtyard is entirely available. www.bundestag.de. Platz der Republik 1. decorated with glazed blue-and-white tiles in T: 030.22732152. U Bundestag. D3/E3 geometric designs, while the apartment buildings Siegessäule (Victory Column) and narrow, maze-like alleys lined with cafés, The triumphal column on the Straße der 17. Juni, shops, and theaters give the Höfe an atmosphere in the middle of Tiergarten park, commemorates both familiar and fascinating. victory in the Prusso-Danish war, while the angel Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. S Hackescher Markt. E2/F2 on top was added after two further war victories against Austria and France. Daily 9:30am–6:30pm Haus der Kulturen der Welt (weekends until 7pm); winter 10am–5pm Dubbed the “pregnant oyster” by locals because (weekends until 5:30pm). €3/2. Großer Stern 1. T: of its curvy shape, the Haus der Kulturen der Welt 030.3912961. U was built as a congress hall in 1956. The building Hansaplatz. C3/D3 quickly became a symbol of western freedom and creativity, in contrast to East German architectural projects of the time. Computer-guided chime concerts ring daily at noon and 6pm and the building now hosts concerts and intercultural Asisi’s Wall Panorama events. Open daily 10am–7pm. € prices vary.

Yadegar Asisi created a panorama of divided Berlin,

HISTORIC SITES

presenting everyday life against the backdrop of the Wall on an imaginary day in the 1980s. The artist's aim was to show how the population came to terms with the situation, and the result gives onlookers a glimpse of East German life. Daily 10am–6pm. €10/4. www.asisi.de. Friedrichstr. 205.

T: 0341.3555340. Kochstraße. E3/E4

Berlin Wall Documentation Center MUST SEE Walk along one of the few surviving stretches of the Berlin Wall in an area of the city where its impact was particularly dramatic, then delve into its storied history at the documentation center. Documents and original radio broadcasts from both East and West chronicle one of Germany’s saddest historical periods. Open-air exhibition: 8am-10pm daily; documentation center: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. Free. www. berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de. Bernauer Str. 111. Bernauer Straße. E2

Checkpoint Charlie During the Cold War, Checkpoint Charlie was the main gateway between East and West. Shortly after the Wall went up, US and Soviet tanks faced each other on this spot. Today, the crossing point acts primarily as a backdrop for tourist photographs. U Kochstraße, U Stadtmitte. E3/E4

East Side Gallery While West Berliners loved to express their creativity by drawing graffiti and painting on the Wall, East Berliners were never allowed to use the dividing structure as a canvas. To make up for all the artless years, artists from 21 countries were called upon in 1990 to decorate one mile of the Wall's eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery. Mühlenstraße.

S+U Warschauer Straße, S Ostbahnhof. G4

Holocaust Memorial MUST SEE Berlin’s tribute to the victims of the Holocaust is as big as a soccer field and consists of 2711 tombstone-like slabs of equal size and varying heights, placed on uneven ground to convey a sense of claustrophobia and disorientation. The underground information center provides a timeline of Jewish persecution. Accessible 24 hours a day. Free. www.holocaust-mahnmal.de.

Cora-Berliner Straße. T: 030.2639430.

U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Karl-Marx-Allee Berlin’s best example of GDR-era Neorealist architecture is a 90m- (295ft-)wide boulevard built between 1950 and 1960 to provide housing for thousands of residents and to act as a backdrop for military parades. The street quickly became a source of national pride for East Germany, due to its residential tower blocks inspired by Moscow and by Stalin’s ideal style: nationalistic in form but socialist in content. The boulevard is an important architectural showcase. U Weberwiese, Strausberger Platz. F3/G3

Topographie des Terrors MUST SEE On the site of the former headquarters of the SS and the Third Reich’s most important offices, this permanent exhibition recounts the tragic history of Nazi forced labor, focusing on the central institutions of the SS and Third Reich police and the crimes they committed throughout Europe. A segment of the Wall runs along the grounds. Daily 10am–8pm.

Free. www.topographie.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 8.

T: 030.2545090. U Kochstraße. E4

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Dashing Through The Snow

Let‘s go up!

No matter how cold it is, nobody wants to be stuck indoors all winter, but with a bit of luck, one of these days we’ll wake to a big dump of beautiful white, fluffy snow. Time to go sledding! Even in this relatively flat city, there are thrilling downhill rides to be had: Teufelsberg in Grunewald is probably the fastest sledding hill, followed by Oderbruchkippe at Volkspark Prenzlauer Berg. Insulaner in Steglitz has an observatory perched on its top and a planetarium at the foot of the hill, Fischtalpark in Zehlendorf is perfect for the smaller kids, and Viktoriapark has an added city panorama and opportunities for a hot drink.

Given you probably didn’t pack a sled and you may not want to take the daredevil approach on a cardboard box, you can rent one from Fahrradstation outlets across the city. www.schlittenvermietung.de

KIDS & FAMILIES Berlin Zoo and Aquarium MUST SEE One of the city’s main attractions and the oldest zoo in Germany includes pavilions that provide ample indoor space, making the venue suitable for rainy days. The zoo boasts the largest number of species and total animal residents in the world. The aquarium, one of the largest in Europe, features large tanks with piranhas, sharks, and alligators. Daily 9am–6:30pm. Zoo or aquarium: €14.50/7.50, under-4s free. Combined ZooAquarium ticket: €20/10. www.aquarium-berlin.de, www.zoo-berlin.de Hardenbergplatz 8.

T: 030.254010. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Children’s Museum Labyrinth One of Berlin’s two children’s museums. Two floors of activity stations on the theme of construction.

Pleasant outdoor area for the warmer days. Open Fri and Sat 1–6pm, Sun 11–6pm. €4.50 for all over3s (3.50 on Fridays). www.labyrinth-kindermuseum. de. Osloer Str. 12. T: 030.800931150. U Osloer Straße then tram. Off Map

Currywurst Museum Learn about Berlin’s most famous street food at this small but entertaining museum. Delve into Currywurst history, discover the secrets of its yellow sauce in the "spice chamber," and watch movies starring the delicious sausage. Daily 10am–8pm. €11/7, under-6s free. www.currywurstmuseum.de.

Schützenstr. 70. T: 030.88718647. U Kochstraße. E4

© ISTOCK

Madame Tussauds Have your picture taken with Angela Merkel, Albert Einstein, One Direction, or a host of other famous names in entertainment and politics. And, yes, there's even a wax Adolf Hitler, depicted as a little man standing in despair in his bunker during his final days. Daily 10am–7pm (Aug until 8pm). €23.50/18.50, discounts if you book online.

Combined Berlin Dungeon, LEGOLAND, and Sea Life tickets available. www.madametussauds.com.

Unter den Linden 74. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Sea Life & AquaDom Dazzling clownfish, scary sharks, crawling spider

crabs, and lovely seahorses are just some of the 5,000 creatures inhabiting this small but interesting aquarium. Discover the ethereal dance of the jellyfish and observe the eagle rays on your way to the Aquadom, a 16-m-tall cylindrical tropical fish tank that can be viewed from a slow elevator. Daily 10am–7pm. €17.50/12.50 (discounts when booking online). Under-3s free. Combined tickets with Madame Tussauds, Berlin Dungeon, and Legoland also available. www.visitsealife.com. Spandauer Str. 3. S Hackescher Markt, S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

TOURS & GUIDED WALKS Berliner Unterwelten (Underground Tours) Since 1997, the Berlin Underworlds Association has been offering regular tours of underground structures and subterranean complexes that are otherwise inaccessible. Cold War nuclear shelters, Hitler’s underground fortress, escape routes to the West, and WWII bunkers are just some of the adventures on offer. From €10. www.berliner-unterwelten.de. Brunnenstr. 105.

T: 030.49910517.

CooLTourings Segway Tours Covering Berlin’s top 20 sightseeing highlights, CooLTourings takes individual visitors or large groups on an exciting ride aboard a Segway, a fun and fast way to explore the city. www.seg-berlinways.de.T: 030.26321381.

Towering 368m above Berlin, the TV Tower dominates the city’s skyline like no other building. Plan your visit for the observation deck or the revolving restaurant “Sphere” now and avoid the queues – book your Fast Track Ticket online.

Berlin TV Tower – simply unforgettable!

Trabi World For a quintessential Berlin tour experience, hop inside real Trabants, the iconic cars of the former GDR. Visitors drive their personal Trabis, while, via the car’s radio, the group leader provides historical and quirky facts. Three different tours available. €30-50. www.trabi-world.de. Zimmerstr.

97. T: 030.30201030.orate one mile of the Wall's eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery. Mühlenstraße.

S+U Warschauer Straße, S Ostbahnhof. G4

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES | THE GUIDE

Why Images?

Serene Tseng starts off the new year by visiting her favorite gallery.

Is it fair to believe that a picture is worth more than a thousand words? When C/O Berlin (www.co-berlin.org) was founded in 2000, its vision was to provide an exhibition space for photography and visual art, regardless of whether the works were created by established or up-and-coming artists. The three founders envisioned the venue to be a site of visual education and discussion, and after its reopening in the Amerika Haus in the fall of 2014, it’s evident that C/O Berlin’s vision of focusing entirely on photography still resonates.

To start off the new year, the gallery is hosting Torbjørn Rødland. Back In Touch, a series of surreal and at times disturbing

images exploring how photography is tied with memories, dreams, and realities. The Norwegian-born photographer juxtaposes dentures with pastries, elderly hands with youthful physicality, nudity with shoes, and other curious objects to challenge the viewer’s gaze to shift away or stay. Either way, Rødland’s intense images linger in the mind, becoming a part of reality... or not?

Also on show is Joel Meyerowitz. Why Color?, a retrospective featuring the New York photographer’s works, including his early color prints dating back to the '60s and his black-and-white shots. Without a doubt, New York City is full of life, stories, and history, and Meyerowitz’s early adoption and pioneering of color

photography captured the city’s development in the 1960s and '70s. With color, he highlighted the vibrancy and intensity of the city while also encouraging reactions and emotions from the viewer.

He didn’t limit himself to color, however.

He also spent twelve months traveling through Europe and also experimenting with black-and-white film before returning to capturing exclusively in color. The subtleties of color and light, and especially the two elements’ tension in the resulting image, are what defines his iconic style and legacy as one of the influential founders of the Street and New Color Photography group. Be sure to not miss these two exhibitions, both running until 11 March.

ALL IMAGES © JOEL MEYEROWITZ/COURTESY HOWARD GREENBERG. WHY COLOR? RETROSPECTIVE.

Photos by Joel Meyerowitz, from the exhibition Why Color? Retrospective

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Altes Museum Berlin’s collection of classical antiquities, housed inside a breathtaking Neoclassical building. Take in the mosaic floor of Hadrian’s villa, a wealth of Greek sculptures, and a number of Etruscan and Roman finds. To 21 Jan: Dangerous Perfection – Ancient Funerary Vases from Apulia. Featuring thirteen large-scale vases from the indigenous population of southern Italy 2,500 years ago. Tue–Fri 10am– 6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Am Lustgarten.

T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Alte Nationalgalerie A splendorous collection of 19th-century art. To 18 Mar: Rodin - Rilke - Hofmannsthal. Man and His Genius.

Celebrating the 100th anniversary of Rodin's death with his masterpieces. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6 with exhibition, €10/5 museum only. www.smb.museum.

Bodestr. 1–3. T: 030.266424242.

S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Bauhaus Archiv

Bode Museum

Bröhan Museum

Learn about daily life in the former East Germany at this hands-on museum. Closets filled with GDR (DDR in German) fashion and a Trabant (the GDR car) are just some of the items on display, while photographs illustrate Communist habits, such as collectively potty-training babies or going on nudist holidays. Mon–Sun 10am–8pm, Sat until 10pm. €7/4. www.ddr-museum.de. KarlLiebknecht-Str. 1. T: 030.847123731.

S Hackescher Markt, U Alexanderplatz. E3

Deutsches Historisches Museum MUST SEE Learn about the milestones in German history from the Roman occupation of the Germanic areas to the present day. To 15 Apr: 1917.

Revolution. Russia and Europe. Exploring the 100 years since the Russian Revolution and the changes it brought forth. To 8 Apr: Craving For New Pictures: From Broadsheet to Comic Strip. A display of the vibrant history of graphics in media.

Daily 10am–6pm. €8/4 (under-18s free). www.dhm. de. Unter den Linden 2.

T: 030.203040. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Deutsches Technikmuseum MUST SEE At the museum for all things technology, the old locomotives and aviation rooms are the most popular attractions, while a Rosinenbomber, a 1948 Berlin Airlift aircraft, is mounted on the museum’s roof. A hands-on section allows kids to conduct experiments. To 18 Feb: The Internet as a place. Photographs by Heinrich Holtgreve in search of the Internet. To 2 Sep: Seamarks! Highlights of orientation along Germany's Coasts. A presentation of how seafarers found their direction on the sea. Mon–Fri 9am–5:30pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €8/4. www.sdtb.de. Trebbiner Str. 9. T: 030.902540.

U Möckernbrücke, U Gleisdreieck. E4

Berlin has more

Ephraim Palais

Starting in 1966, collector Karl Temporary exhibitions on local museums than rainy Bröhan amassed hundreds of Art cultural history fill this great Baroque days per year.

Nouveau and Art Deco objects and building. Demolished in 1935, the various paintings from the Berlin Palais was rebuilt in 1983 using its Secessionist movement. Browse through original façade, which had been stored in pieces of furniture, housewares, ceramics, a warehouse for almost 50 years. Open Tues, and glassware from this fascinating artistic period.

Thu–Sun 10am–6pm, Wed noon-8pm. €7/5 under To 21 Jan: The Paper Revolution: Soviet Graphic 18s free. www.stadtmuseum.de. Poststr. 16. 030 Design During the 1920s and 1930s. An exploration 24002162. of early Soviet visual language. To 28 Jan: U Alexanderplatz E3 Landscape Between Impressionism and Expressionism: The Gay Museum (Schwules Museum) Masterpieces by Hagermeister and Leistikow. Exploring One of the world’s largest and most significant the radical middle ground between impressionism institutions for archiving, researching, and and expressionism. Open Tue–Sun 10am–6pm communicating the history and culture of LGBTQ www.broehan-museum.de. Schloßstr. 1a. communities. Changing exhibitions take diverse T: 030.32690600. approaches to lesbian, gay, transgender, bisexual, U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3 and queer biographies and concepts in history, Brücke Museum art, and culture. . To 8 Jan: Queer City: Stories from Founded in Dresden in 1905, the Die Brücke São Paulo. Exploring how São Paulo's diversity movement drew inspiration from primitive art exemplifies the term "queer city". To 5 Feb: Marc and expressed extreme emotion and political Martin: Fenster zum Klo - Public toilets & private affairs. opposition through lively, exaggerated color.

Martin documents the history and stories of public

Soviet

during

the 1920s and 1930s

An extensive collection of Old Masters’ paintings, a section dedicated to ancient coins, and many works of Roman and Byzantine art adorn the museum’s impressive interior, built by Ernst von Ihne in 1904. To 28 Jan: Scholarship and Turbulence.

Wolfgang Fritz Volbach, a scholar between the two World Wars. Celebrating Volbach’s 125th birthday and his dedication to Berlin’s museums.

Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.smb.museum. Am Kupfergraben. T: 030.266424242.

U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

DDR Museum

Graphic Design

The avant-garde building designed by Walter Gropius is home to documents, photographs, and models illustrating the Bauhaus philosophy, which combines artistic beauty with architectural functionality. To 5 Mar: New Bauhaus Chicago: Experiment Photography and Film. Exploring the American leg of Bauhaus creativity. Wed–Mon 10am–5pm. Sat–Mon €8/5, Wed–Fri. €7/4. www. bauhaus.de. Klingelhöferstr. 14. T: 030.25400278.

U Nollendorfplatz. D4

Features the paintings of such artists as Emil Nolde and Erich Heckel. To 7 Jan: 50 Years of the Brücke-Museum – The Jubilee Exhibition. Paintings, Watercolors, Drawings, and Graphics of Artist Group Die Brücke. Celebrating the museum’s 50th birthday, featuring works from Die Brücke spanning Jugendstil, Impressionism, and Fauvism. Wed– Mon 11am–5pm. €5/3. www.bruecke-museum.de.

Bussardsteig 9. T: 030.8312029.

U Oskar-Helene-Heim. Off Map

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Jewish Museum MUST SEE Daniel Libeskind’s architectural jewel,

shaped as a deconstructed Star of David, explores

Science Talks Much of our modern scientific knowledge can be traced back to the cultural exchanges between the Middle East and the Mediterranean in the Middle Ages. Jewish, Christian, and Muslim intellectuals translated ancient documents from Persian, Aramaic, Sanskrit, and Hebrew into Arabic and then into Latin. These translations became the basis of modern-day algebra, medicine, and astronomy, giving way to schools and universities.

From antiquity to the Middle Ages and beyond, the fundamental scientific knowledge grew into the scientific world of today. Jews, Christians, and Muslims.

Scientific Discourse in the Middle Ages 500-1500, on show at the Martin Gropius Bau (this page), follows these developments and the intersections between these cultures. Until 4 March.

millennia of German Jewish history, including the alternating glories and persecutions of the community. From 17 Nov: res·o·nant. A multidimensional light and sound installation. From 11 Dec: Welcome to Jerusalem. An exploration of Jerusalem through time and religion Daily 10am–8pm, Mon until 10pm. €8/3. www.jmberlin. de. Lindenstr. 9-14. T: 030.25993300. U Hallesches Tor, U Kochstraße. E4

Magicum - Berlin Magic Museum A very unique interactive magic museum. With exhibition objects that date back to ancient times as well as games and magic tricks to keep guests on their toes. www.magicum-berlin.de. Open MonSun 10am-8pm. €9.50/7.50. Große Hamburger Straße 17. T: 030.28875635. S Hackescher Markt. E3

Märkisches Museum Documents, photos, books, and weapons walk visitors through 750 years of Berlin history in a neoGothic setting. To 25 Feb: Berlin 1937. In the Shadow of Tomorrow. Examining the false sense of normalcy Berlin felt in 1937, right before the Nazi seizure of power. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €6/4 (under-18s free; free entry first Wed of month). www.stadtmuseum. de. Am Köllnischen Park 5.

T: 030.24002162. U Märkisches Museum. F3

Martin-Gropius-Bau MUST SEE One of the city’s best art and photography exhibition spaces and an important example of early 20th-century architecture, the imposing building combines Italian Renaissance elements with local features, such as mosaics of allegorical figures. To 4 Mar: Jews, Christians and Muslims. In the Discourse of Sciences 500-1500.

Exploring how intellectual exchange thrived between the three cultures. To 7 Jan: Ed Atkins. Old Food. Atkins's multimedia work, united under evoking a physical reaction. To 14 Jan: Wenzel Hablik - Expressionist Utopias.

Featuring the expressionist avant-garde architecture and design paintings. Wed–Mon 10am–7pm. Prices vary by exhibition. www.gropiusbau.de.

Niederkirchnerstr. 7. T: 030.254860.

U Kochstraße. E4

Menschen Museum The internationally popular touring exhibition Body Worlds showcased anatomist Gunther von Hagens’ plastination process, which preserves body parts and reveals their inner structures. The permanent Berlin exhibition shows t date back to ancient times as well as games and ma200 body parts amd 20 whole-body preparations, focusing on specific organs and diseases. Daily 10am–7pm. www. memu.berlin. Panoramaplatz 1.

S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Museum Berggruen MUST SEE A can’t-miss for Picassophiles. The Spanish painter is the star of this Charlottenburg museum, which boasts dozens of rooms filled with his paintings. The collection encompasses 75 years works by Matisse, Klee, Giacometti, Van Gogh, Cézanne, and many more. To 31 Mar: Mark Chagall: The Modernity of

Decorativeness. A one room show of Chagall's innovationt date back to ancient times as well as games and ma in modern art, with photographs by Ulrike Kolb. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb. museum. Schloßstr. 1.

T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Museum of Musical Instruments A fascinating collection of ancient and modern musical instruments, including bagpipes, harpsichords, and instruments once owned by celebrities. Check the website for the weekly demonstrations of the most impressive musical machines, such as a silent film-era cinema organ.

Open Tue, Wed, Fri 9am–5pm, Thu 9am–8pm, Sat & Sun 10am–5pm. €6/3 (under 18s free). www.sim. spk-berlin.de. Tiergartenstr. 1. T: 030.254810.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Museum of Photography Diverse and comprehesive exhibitions curated from the Berlin Art Library’s vast photographic collection are housed in a Neoclassical 1909 building built for the Prussian army’s officer corps, whose lower two floors are occupied by the Helmut Newton Foundation. To 7 Jan: Seen By #9. OH SO SOLID, ALL THAT AIR. Following the transformation of urban spaces from commercialization. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb. museum. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.266424242. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3–C4

Museum für Naturkunde Home to the world’s largest dinosaur skeleton, the natural history museum also features extensive collections of shells, insects, and prize-winning mounted animal dioramas. Tue–Fri 9:30–6pm, Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3. www.naturkundemuseumberlin. Invalidenstr. 43. T: 030.20938591.

U Naturkundemuseum. E2

Neues Museum MUST SEE The 3300-year-old bust of Queen Nefertiti is the museum’s top attraction. Examine a world-famous Egyptian collection that includes many important papyruses, while hundreds of artifacts relate early human history. Badly damaged during WWII and left abandoned until the 1980s, the museum reopened in 2009. To 3 Dec: China and Egypt. Cradles of the World. A parallel exploration of two cultures and their innovations that spanned millennia. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.neues-museum.de.

Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242.

S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Pergamon Museum One of Berlin’s main attractions, the Pergamon houses the outcome of Germany’s early-20thcentury archeology excavations. The imposing Ishtar Gate of Babylon with its glazed blue bricks Myletus, the reconstructed interiors of an Assyrian world. Altar room closed for restoration through 2019. To 26 Jan: Pictures of Comfort and Design: Carpets in Indian Miniature Painting. A glimpse into the essential courtly furnishing. www.smb.museum.

Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. S Hackescher Markt. E3

The German Spy Museum Delve into the world of espionage with two floors of interactive exhibits covering some 3500 years of espionage history. Highlights include presentations on James Bond and other famous fictitious spies and a laser maze that tests your

COURTESY OF MARTIN-GROPIUS BAU, JEWS, CHRISTIANS, AND MUSLIMS. SCIENTIFIC DISCOURSE IN THE MIDDLE AGES 500-1500.

toilets. To 28 Feb: Fascination Sex: The Theorist & Activist Martin Dannecker. Following the story of the critical theorist, in celebration of his 75th birthday.

Sun–Mon, Wed–Fri 2–6pm, Thu 2–8pm, Sat 2–7pm. €6/4. www.schwulesmuseum.de. Lützowstr.

73. T: 030.69599050. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

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agility to break into – or out of – compromising locations. €12/8. Daily 10am-8pm. www.deutschesspionagemuseum.de. Leipziger Platz 9.

S+U Potsdamer Platz E3

Stasi Museum The GDR’s Ministry of State Security, the Stasi, has been described as one of the most repressive intelligence and secret police agencies to ever have existed. Explore the agency’s headquarters and learn about their spying techniques, inc. cameras hidden in watering cans or inside fake trees. Open Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat & Sun noon–6pm. €5/4. www.stasimuseum.de. Ruschestr.

103. T: 030.5536854.

U Magdalenenstraße. Off Map

For Explorers!

ART GALLERIES Berlinische Galerie A modern art collection of 5000+ works of German and Eastern European paintings. To 30 Apr: Cyrill Lachauer. What Do You Want Here. Reconstructions and alternative realities from Lachauer's journey across the US. To 15 Jan: Jeanne Mammen. The Observer Retrospective (1910-1975). Highlighting the painter's works, encompassing Cubo-Futurism, Expressionism, and New Objectivity. To 26 Feb: Monica Bonvicini. 3612,54 M³ VS 0,05 M³. Berlin's University of the Arts alum returns for her first solo exhibition. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm. €8/5 (€10/7 during exhibitions). www.berlinischegalerie.de.

Alte Jakobstr. 124-128. T: 030.78902600.

U Hallesches Tor. E4

Trebbiner Str. 9, 10963 Berlin www.sdtb.de /deutschestechnikmuseum

C/O Berlin MUST SEE Contemporary art and photography has finally reopened in the Amerika Haus, which housed the American library during the Cold War era. To 11 Mar: Torbjørn Rødland. Back in Touch.

Surreal dreams and imaginings extended into photographic reality. To 11 Mar: Joel Meyerowitz.

Why Color? Meyerowitz’s vintage color photographs presented together with his early black-and-white work. Daily 11am–8pm. €10/5. www.co-berlin.org Hardenbergstr. 22–24. T: 030.28444160.

S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Dalí – The Exhibition The permanent exhibit features more than 400 works, most from private collections, by the Surrealist painter, with a focus on drawing, illustration, and film. Dalí fans explore new perspectives of the artist’s life and work. Daily noon–8pm (10am–8pm in summer). €12.50. www. daliberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 7. Toll number: 0700.3254237546. U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Deutsche Bank KunstHalle With an emphasis on paper and photography, the Deutsche Bank’s art collection is a stroll along the timeline of modern art. Every year, the bank pays tribute to young artists by organizing an international prize. To 25 Mar: Fahrelnissa. A retrospective of Turkish modernist Zeid's work.

Daily 10am–8pm. €4/3. www.deutsche-bankkunsthalle.de. Unter den Linden 13/15.

T: 030.2020930.

S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Gemäldegalerie – Old Masters Painting Gallery MUST SEE One of the finest collections of European art from the 13th to the 18th centuries.

Lots of Dutch and Flemish painters, including Rembrandt and Vermeer, and a vast collection of

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Italian Renaissance art, including Botticelli, Titian, and Canaletto. To 7 Jan: Jean Fouquet. The Melun Diptych. The two halves of the 15th century diptych is reunited for the first time in 80 years. To 14 Jan: Luther Pictures. Prints and Drawings from the Kupferstichkabinett. Images of Martin Luther after instigating the Reformation. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www. smb.museum. Matthäikirchplatz 50. T: 030.266424242. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Georg-Kolbe-Museum An idyllic garden houses the former studio of German Secessionist artist Georg Kolbe, who used the human body as an expression of the human spirit, challenging the role of sculpture as a representation of mythological or heroic symbolism. The museum displays a wide selection of works and hosts frequent exhibitions. To 28 Jan: Emil Cimiotti. Retrospective. A celebration of the pioneer of Abstraction's 90th birthday. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3. www.georg-kolbe-museum.de.

Sensburger Allee 25.

T: 030.3042144. S Heerstraße. Off Map

Hamburger Bahnhof

city’s finest and worth a visit on its own. For an unusual yoga class, try Yoga Amidst the Art, The permanent collection of this former railway offered Wed 9-10:30am. Exhibitions closed for station includes a selection of works from the renovations until June 2018. €7/5. www.

Friedrich Christian Flick Collection, and the many hausamwaldsee.de. Argentinische Allee 30. temporary exhibitions focus on painting and T: 030.8018935. sculpture from the past 50 years, as well as U Krumme Lanke. Off Map videos, music, and design. To 14 Jan: Preis der Nationalgalerie 2017. Works from Liebermann Villa on Lake this year's award nominees. Tue–Fri Wannsee 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat– CL904 MUST SEE The former summer Sun 10am–6pm. €14/7. www.smb.

The Hamburger Bahnhof residence of artist Max Liebermann, museumInvalidenstr. 50-51. museum is housed co-founder and head of the German T: 030.266424242. inside an old train Secessionist movement. Before being U Naturkundemuseum, S station. dismissed and banned by the Nazis in Hauptbahnhof. D2 1933, Liebermann painted around 200 works in this villa, some of which are on Haus am Waldsee display in his studio on the upper floor. €3 plus Since 1946, this Zehlendorf villa has organized museum entry. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm (11am–5pm contemporary art exhibitions that cover a wide in winter). €7/4 (€6/4 in summer). www.liebermannspectrum of media and styles. Each show is villa.de. Colomierstr. 3. complemented by events – lectures, concerts, and T: 030.80585900. S Wannsee. Off Map performances – for children and adults. The multi-sensory sculpture organize exhibitions, me Collectors Room workshops, and concerts. The garden is one of the Thomas Olbricht created this space to bring together other international art collectors and to organize exhibitions, workshops, and concerts. The upper floor houses his “cabinet of curiosities.” To 2 Apr: Indigenous Australia: Masterworks from the National Gallery of Australia. Presenting the traditional and modern works of Indigenous Australia. Tue–Sun noon–6pm. €7/4. www.me-berlin.com. Auguststr. 68.

T: 030.86008510. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Sammlung Boros No more than 12 guests at a time can visit this former Nazi bunker turned art gallery. Collector Chistian Boros bought the historic building in 2003 to fill it up with contemporary art by artists like Damien Hirst, Olafur Eliasson, and more. Open by appointment only (book online). €12. www.sammlung-boros.de. Reinhardtstr. 20.

T: 030.27594065. S+U Friedrichstraße. E2/E3

Sammlung Hoffmann An old sewing factory behind the Hackesche Höfe now contains Rolf and Erika Hoffmann’s private collection. Erika herself shows visitors around her art-packed apartment on Saturdays between 11am and 4pm. €10. www.sammlung-hoffmann.de.

Sophie-Gips-Höfe, Aufgang C, Sophienstr. 21.

T: 030.28499120. S Hackescher Markt. F2

Sammlung Scharf Gerstenberg The Scharf Gerstenberg collection now houses three floors of works by Surrealist painters, such as Klee, Max Ernst, Dali, and Dubuffet. Open Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat & Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www. smb.museum. Schloßstr. 70. T: 030.266424242.

U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Seen From Berlin’s Shoes WWII has ended, and the Allies have divided Berlin into four sectors. With the dust still settling, the Cold War begins and conflicts between western and eastern powers break out in the capital right before Berliners’ eyes. 100 Objects. Berlin During the Cold War at the Allied Museum uses everyday objects, caricatures, and art from the museum’s permanent collection to tell the multi-faceted story of the capital during the decadeslong standoff. The narrative explores the perspectives of the Americans, British, French, and East and West Berliners and how Berlin’s residents experienced being physically at the site of global developments. Until 28 January.

Clayallee 135. T: 030.8181990. www.alliiertenmuseum.de.

Galerie Hilaneh von Kories, to 27 Jan: Sabine Weiss: Un Regard personnel. Belziger Str. 35. www. galeriehilanehvonkories.de; Gräfe art.concept, to 27 Jan: Felipe Oyarzun Eichholtz: Cosmogonie.

Kollwitzstr. 72. www.graefe-art.de; Sandau & Leo Galerie, to 27 Jan: Tamara Lorenz, Sarah Straßmann: In the Room. Tucholskystr. 38. www. sandau-leo.de; Zilberman Gallery, to 27 Jan: Memed Erdener: Beauty of Bigotry. Goethestr. 82. www.zilbermangallery.com; Galerie Tammen & Partner, to 27 Jan: Harald Gnade, Herbert Mehler.

Hedemannstr. 14. www.galerie-tammen-partner. de; Wichtendahl Galerie, to 27 Jan: Reinhard Wöllmer, Kazuki Nakahara. Carmerstr. 10. www. wichtendahl.de.

COURTESY OF ALLIED MUSEUM.

Commercial Galleries

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THE GUIDE | DINING

Clockwise from top left: Café am Neuen See; schnitzel at Schneeweiss; the fireplace at Schneeweiss; Sachertorte at Jolesch. Inset: the firplace at Jolesch.

A Seat By The Fire

COURTESY OF CAFÉ AM NEUEN SEE, JOLESCH, SCHNEEWEISS.

Stay snug this month with Hilda Hoy’s selection of the coziest fireside dining spots in the city.

Is there any cozier sound on a cold, gray day than the crackling of logs in the hearth? Pull up a chair by the fireplace at any of the following restaurants and you’ll have the winter blues beat.

The beautiful Café am Neuen See (Lichtensteinallee 2, www.cafeamneuensee. de) in Tiergarten is a popular favorite at any time of year, but while the Biergarten seats out by the pond are in high demand in the summer, winter is for getting cozy indoors.

Take a long stroll through the sprawling park to get here, which will make warming up by the fire all the more rewarding. Afternoon coffee-and-cake hour is one of their busiest times, though the extensive menu covers everything from breakfast to dinner. Ready to brave the chilly air again? Try your hand on

the café’s Eisstockschießen court, a game similar to curling.

Zollpackhof (Elisabeth-Abegg-Str. 1, www. zollpackhof.de) is another Biergarten that draws guests indoors all through winter with a toasty fireplace – an enormous one that’s open on all sides to cast its warm glow around the dining room. Thanks to Zollpackhof’s prime location overlooking the Spree River, you can also catch a view of tour boats passing by and the Chancellery across the water. The restaurant’s hearty Bavarian specialties like roast duck with dumplings or ham hock in beer sauce are the perfect cold-weather comfort food.

Warm and hearty is also the theme at Jolesch (Muskauer Str. 1, www.jolesch.de), a favorite neighborhood locale in Kreuzberg

serving Austrian cuisine with a high-end touch. Get a table in the front room to be near the fire, and make sure to try the Wiener schnitzel – one of the best in the city – and a slice of the delectable dark chocolate Sachertorte. A close rival to Jolesch both for its schnitzel and its fireplace is Schneeweiss (Simplonstr. 16, www.schneeweiss-berlin.de), a Friedrichshain restaurant featuring pristinely white Alpine-style décor. Besides Austrian classics like schnitzel and goulash, the menu also gets creative with seasonal specialties like trout tartare with white pepper mousse, or chestnut-filled ricotta. The fireplace is tucked away into a back lounge room, a perfect spot to unwind and wrap up your evening the classic Austrian way – sipping a glass of apricot schnapps. www.wheretraveler.com 43

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DINING DINING KEY Alc (à la carte): Prices are per person for three courses (excl. drinks) €: under €15. €€: €15–€40. €€€: €40–€80. €€€€: over €80. Restaurants listed in Fine Dining have at least one Michelin star. Letter/ number codes correspond to map at back of book.

Recommended by Die Goldenen Schlüssel Deutschland e.V./U.I.C.H. Les Clefs d’Or.

by playing it safe. The two nightly dinner menus at Reinstoff – one focused on regional tastes, the other incorporating influences from farther afield – are successful experiments in exciting, avantgarde cuisine. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.reinstoff.eu. Schlegelstr. 26c.

T: 030.30881214. U Naturkundemuseum, S Nordbahnhof. E2

Rutz

FINE DINING For a complete list of Berlin's Michelin-starred restaurants, visit wheretraveler.com/berlin.

5 – Cinco by Paco Pérez

Indian Cuisine

Catalan star chef Paco Pérez’s very first endeavor outside Spain is this Michelin-starred restaurant in Das Stue Hotel. His aim is to tickle all five senses with avant-garde taste experiences that take full advantage of the flavors and ingredients of his home country. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.5-cinco.com. Drakestr. 1.

T: 030.3117220. S Tiergarten. C3

Facil Situated in a glass atrium of The Mandala Hotel and ringed by the courtyard’s trees, Facil has mastered understated elegance in both its décor and cuisine. Double-Michelin-starred chef Michael Kempf is particularly masterful with seafood when creating his fine menus. €€€€.

Mon–Fri L&D. www.facil.de. Potsdamer Str. 3.

T: 030.590051234. S Potsdamer Platz. D3

Fischers Fritz

Servus Bavaria!

Delicious german food and drinks at Maximilians.

The place to be.

Skykitchen Part of the andel’s Hotel, Skykitchen brings a welcome touch of luxury to the Lichtenberg district and was accordingly crowned with a Michelin star in 2014. Try chef Alexander Koppe’s four-course “From Berlin to the Sea” regional menu for modern takes on traditional favorites. €€€. Tue–Sat D. www.vi-hotels.com. Landsberger Allee 106.

T: 030.4530532620.

S Landsberger Allee. H2

Tim Raue

From his humble beginnings growing up in Kreuzberg, Tim Raue has become one of the best-known culinary names in Berlin. Plumbing the Far East for inspiration, his namesake restaurant serves refined interpretations of Berliner Weisse is a pale Asian cuisine, such as his famed ale brewed only in the personal take on Peking duck. €€€€. capital and usually Tue–Sat L&D. www.tim-raue. served with a shot of com. Rudi-Dutschke-Str. 26. T: syrup.

030.25937930. U Kochstraße. E4

Pure, straightforward luxury is the formula at this restaurant in the Regent Berlin Hotel. One of just a handful of Berlin restaurants to earn two Michelin stars, Fischers Fritz will not fail to impress with its elevated cuisine and finely honed service. €€€€. Daily B, D. www.fischersfritzberlin. com. Charlottenstr. 49.

T: 030.20336363.

U Französische Straße. E3

Horváth Austria-born chef Sebastian Frank built a reputation – and earned two Michelin stars – with his highly creative, oftentimes minimalist use of seasonal ingredients, from sunchokes to candied parsley root to spruce needles. Wooden interior and lovely outdoor patio. €€€. Wed–Sun D. www.restaurant-horvath.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 44a.

T: 030.61289992. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer The Hotel Adlon restaurant boasts two Michelin stars and a well-earned spot in the upper echelon of Berlin’s finest restaurants. No detail is spared in the creation of an unforgettable dining experience. €€€€. Wed–Sat D. www.lorenzadlonesszimmer.de. Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2661196.

S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Pauly Saal

Friedrichstraße 185–190 maximilians-berlin.de

Wine bar, wine shop, and restaurant in one, Rutz offers perfectly paired meals by Chef Marco Müller, whose six-, eight-, and 10-course “Inspiration Menus” combine simple yet diverse ingredients into creative taste sensations. €€€€.

Tue–Sun D. www.rutz-weinbar.de. Chausseestr. 8.

T: 030.24628760. U Oranienburger Tor. E4

The chic, hip décor is matched by a menu of equally creative German cuisine, which was awarded a Michelin star in 2013. Meat dishes made from local game are a highlight. €€€. Daily L&D, closed Sun and Mon. www.paulysaal.com.

Auguststr. 11–13. T: 030.33006070. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Reinstoff Chef Daniel Achilles didn’t earn two Michelin stars

CHARLOTTENBURG– WILMERSDORF Glass Modern Arabic. A 2013 addition to the west-end

gourmet scene, Glass is the baby of Israeli chef Gal Ben Moshe. Guests in the sleek, modern space get wowed with an innovative tasting menu that does magical things with traditional Arabic ingredients like preserved lemon, sumac, and lamb. €€€. Daily D, closed Sun–Mon. www.glassberlin.de. Uhlandstr. 195.

T: 030.54710861. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

Gagans Indian. Just a five-minute walk from the Kurfürstendamm shopping boulevard, Gagans serves delicious North Indian specialties every day of th a clay tandoor oven. €€. Daily L&D. www. gagans.de. Uhlandstr. 149. T: 030 37470302. U Spichernstraße. B4–C4.

Kushinoya Japanese. This upscale Japanese restaurant makes

fried finger-food taste gourmet. The specialty is kushiage, skewers of delicate morsels like steak cubes, quail eggs, or shiitake mushroom caps that are lightly breaded and fried using a special nongreasy technique. www.kushinoya.de. Bleibtreustr. 6.

T: 030.31809897. S Savignyplatz. B4

Lamazère Brasserie French. Proof that fine dining needn’t break the

bank is Lamazère Brasserie, a much-lauded dining spot that earned “Bib Gourmand” status in the great food at good value. The three-course dinner

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menu for €38 will allow you to sample various tarte that night, every delicacy has that je ne sas quoi that has made French cuisine so famous. €€€.

Tue-Sun D. www.lamazere.de. Stuttgarter Platz 18.

T: 030.31800712.S Charlottenburg. B4

W I RT S H AU S BERLIN

Paris Bar French. Many celebrities – including

Madonna, Sophia Loren, and Robert De Niro – have patronized this West Berlin institution over the years. The bistro-style menu includes French classics like oysters and steak-frites, though the legend alone is enough to draw guests. €€€.

Daily L&D. www.parisbar.net. Kantstr. 152.

T: 030.3138052. S Savignyplatz. C4

Wilson's – The Prime Rib Restaurant American. Juicy, high-quality meats cooked the American way and served with salads, potatoes and extravagant desserts. €€€. www.restaurant-wilsons. de. Crowne Plaza Berlin City Centre. Nürnberger Str. 65. T: 030.21007000. U Augsburger Straße. C4

FRIEDRICHSHAIN Matreshka Russian. Simple, homey Russian fare. Borscht, meatstuffed pelmeni dumplings and their vegetarian equivalent, vareniky, a selection of Georgian wines, and, of course, plenty of vodka. €. Daily L&D. Boxhagener Str. 60. T: 0163.9870767. S Ostkreuz. H3

Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 30 10178 Berlin Tel.: 030 679665520

www.berlin-hofbraeu.de

Transit Asian Fusion. The long menu of tapas-style Thai and Indonesian dishes, each just a few euros, allows diners to cobble together a meal encompassing a wide range of tastes and ingredients. Other location in Rosenthaler Str. 68. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.transit-restaurants.com.

Sonntagstr. 28. T: 030.26948415.

S Ostkreuz. Off Map

KREUZBERG Jolesch Austrian. The dining room is elegant yet understated and this Austrian restaurant divides its menu into two sections: “modern” and “classic.” The former means creations like smoked veal tartare with elderflower; the latter refined renditions of home-style dishes like Tafelspitz beef or schnitzel. €€. Daily L&D. www. jolesch.de. Muskauer Str. 1.

T: 030.6123581.

U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

Spindler German/European. Head chef Nicolas Gemin, formerly of Michelin-starred Pauly Saal, wows diners with upscale twists on German-European cuisine: Think cured salmon with beet pickles and ricotta, octopus and chorizo, or lamb shoulder breakfast and weekend brunch. €€–€€€. Mon–Fri L, daily D. www.spindler-berlin.net. Paul-Lincke-Ufer42. T: 030.69598880. U Kottbussr Tor, U Schönleinstraße. F4

Spindler & Klatt Asian-European fusion. Restaurant, lounge, and club in one, Spindler & Klatt makes full use of its prime river location. In the summer, the waterside terrace is a memorable spot to enjoy the menu of Pan-Asian dishes, from fine sushi to sizzling tuna steaks and dry-aged Irish steaks hot off the grill. On Fridays and Saturdays, the spot transforms into a club from 23pm. €€€. Daily D. www.spindlerklatt. com. Köpenicker Str. 16–17.

T: 030 319881860. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

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DINING

MITTE AIGNER am Gendarmenmarkt Austrian/German. The Mitte restaurant boasts an elegant interior and a view on stately Gendarmenmarkt. Styled after Vienna's famed coffeehouses, AIGNER adds a local touch with dishes like Brandenburg roast duck. €€€. Daily L&D. www. aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de. Französischestr. 25 T: 030.203751850. U Französische Straße. E3

Barist Italian. Healthful, filling breakfasts, quick business

lunches, happy-hour cocktails, and dinner with friends in the red-bricked arches under the trains at S Hackescher Markt station. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.barist.de. Am Zwirngraben 13.

T: 030.24722613. S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

Beef Bull Club Steaks. Juicy, delicious steaks and high-quality

meats on the bustling, lively Platz at Hackescher

Markt. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.beefbullclub.de.

Neue Promenade 7. T: 030.27582849.

S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

Cookies Cream Vegetarian. A whole new kind of vegetarian dining.

First, there’s getting there, which feels more like going to an underground club than a restaurant.

Then there’s the food, vegetarian eating gone haute cuisine, thanks to celebrity chef Stephan Hentschel. €€–€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.cookiescream.com. Behrenstr. 55.

T: 030.27492940.

U Französische Straße. E3

The Grand German. The sophisticated supper club, with origins reaching back to 1842, boasts an American grill that makes its international array of steaks among the best in town. The upstairs lounge attracts a decadent late-night scene. €€€. Mon–Fri L, Daily D. www.thegrand-berlin.com. Hirtenstraße 4. T: 030.278909555.

Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Grand Rocka International. Inside, the restaurant takes over the historic arched space under S Hackescher Markt station, featuring a grand old wooden bar that lives up to the restaurant’s name, and out front, the terrace spills out across the busy Platz. The large international menu ranges from steaks to pizzas to burgers. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.grandrocka.de. Am Zwirngraben 6–7. T: 030.24638606. F2

Grill Royal German/French. A beloved destination of

Mitte’s well-dressed creative scenesters.

There’s more to the menu than just grilled meat, though the steaks are indeed excellent. Lobster cocktail, ceviche, and oysters are just a few other www.grillroyal.com. Friedrichstr. 105b.

T: 030.28879288. S Friedrichstraße. E3

Hofbräuhaus German. An Oktoberfest atmosphere for the

whole family 365 days a year. This restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner in typical Bavarian style, alongside live music, waiters in traditional costume, and the traditional Hofbräu beer, brewed in Munich since the 1700s. Expect dumplings and roasted ham hock at their popular Sunday brunch. €. www.hofbraeu-wirtshaus.de. Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 30.

T: 030 679665520. U + S Alexanderplatz. F2

India Club Indian. Just steps away from the Brandenburg Gate is this luxurious hideaway for high-end North Indian cuisine, boasting an ambience that is both elegant and colorful. A renowned chef flown in from New Delhi lends his masterful touch to the menu of extravagantly spiced specialties. €€€.

Daily D. www.india-club-berlin.com. Behrenstr. 72.

T: 030.20628610. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Jolly Chinese. Just across the water from Museum Island, Jolly’s location couldn’t be better for a tasty Chinese meal in between sightseeing stops. Bring an appetite to try as many of the steamed dim sum dumpli. Traditional Peking duck is the house specialty. €€. Daily L&D. www.restaurant-jolly.de.

Am Kupfergraben 4–4a. T: 030.20059500. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Katjes Veggie Café Grün- Ohr

“Comfort food” is tricky to define, but you definitely know it when you have it. It’s the very opposite of overwrought, fussy, high-end dining. Comfort food is delicious, down-to-earth food, prepared with care, that makes you happy to eat. So with its menu of “international comfort food,” Muse is responsible for many happy bellies indeed. The welcoming, homey Prenzlauer Berg restaurant began as an under-theradar supper club until Caroline and Tobias, the British-German couple behind Muse, decided to take their culinary endeavors beyond their apartment’s dining room. The star of both the lunch and dinner menus is their build-your-own burger, which arrives at the table on a sizzling grill pan with add-ins of your choosing. Reflecting Britain’s love affair with Indian cuisine, dishes like chicken tikka masala also feature, alongside buttermilk fried chicken with coleslaw, and grilled Japanese-style salmon with wasabi mayo and seaweed salad. And lest you think comfort food equals junk food, check out healthier options like the superfood salad and quinoa falafel. On the weekends, they welcome brunch crowds with dishes like spicy corn fritters topped with avocado and poached egg, waffles with caramelized figs and mascarpone, or the classic Full English.

Immanuelkirchstr. 31. T: 030 40056289. www.museberlin.com

Käfer Dachgarten-Restaurant of the German Bundestag German. The Reichstag is for more than sightseeing.

Thanks to the culinary team behind Käfer, it’s also a fine dining destination. On the roof of the famed landmark, Käfer boasts splendid views and refined, modern German cuisine. Advance reservations required. Due to security precautions, each guest must provide official photo I.D. upon entry. €€€.

Daily B, L, D. www.feinkost-kaefer.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030 2262990. U Bundestag, S Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3.

Maximilians German. Maximilians recreates the feel of a cozy Bavarian beer hall with hearty food and plentiful beer. Meaty specialties include pork knuckle served with dumplings and sauerkraut, freshly baked pretzels, and the tempting “Munich sausage

COURTESY OF MUSE RESTAURANT

Tastes Like Home

Vegetarian. It’s heaven for the sweet-toothed. The shop and café by Katjes not only stocks the brand’s full line of vegetarian-friendly, gelatin-free gummy candy, but also a rainbow of vegan cupcakes, coffee, and freshly squeezed juices that can be enjoyed on site or to go. €. Rosenthaler Str. 32. T: 030.97894702. www.cafegruenohr.de. F2

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parade.” From the four kinds of Paulaner beer on tap to the warm hospitality, Maximilians goes to great lengths to transport a piece of Bavaria to the heart of Mitte. €–€€. Daily L&D. www. maximiliansrestaurant.de. Friedrichstr. 185–190.

T: 030.20450559. U Stadtmitte. E3

Nante Eck German. With delightful dishes from Berlin’s

traditional cuisine and a menu that changes every month, the Nante Eck restaurant offers a refined cuisine made with fresh local ingredients.

Specialties include extra-big currywurst and Flammkuchen pies. Very long beer menu. €. Daily L&D. www.nante-eck.de. Unter den Linden 35. T: 030.22487257. U Französische Straße. F2

Restauration 1840 German. An elegant, old-timey restaurant decorated in the style of Berlin’s Golden 1920s.

Think curved brick ceilings and lots of warm wood everywhere, plus an outdoor terrace. The menu: classic German meets modern European. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.berlin-1840.de.de. Am Zwirngraben 10. T: 030.24727401. S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

Vivolo Olé Spanish. Authentic Spanish cuisine at Hackescher Markt, including a wide selection of tapas, paellas, grilled meats and fresh fish dishes. Vegetarian and vegan options available. www.vivolo.de. Am Zwirngraben 11-12. T: 030.24631933. S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

PRENZLAUER BERG I Due Forni Italian. The atmosphere in this pizza hall is raucous and the service notoriously surly, but that doesn’t keep the pizza-loving crowds at bay. The generously sized and traditional-style thin-crust concoctions are famed around the city. €. Daily L&D. Schönhauser Allee 12. T: 030.44017333.

U Senefelderplatz. F2

MLucky Leek Vegetarian. It’s not luck that makes Lucky Leek so good, but rather a dedication to creating top-notch gourmet cuisine that is also 100-percent vegan and incorporates international tastes. The small but comprehensive menu changes regularly. €€. Wed– Sun D. www.lucky-leek.de. U Senefelderplatz. F2

SCHÖNEBERG More German. A stylish, design-oriented spot in

the bustling Nollendorfplatz neighborhood, More’s specialty is modern German cuisine with international influences. Classics like schnitzel and Königsberger Klopse meatballs are equally as delicious as fusion-style options such as salmon tartare with avocado and wasabi, or softly braised octopus with lime. €€. Daily L&D. www.moreberlin.de. Motzstr. 28. T: 030.23635702. C4

TIERGARTEN Golvet Modern European. With its spacious terrace, classy lounge, and sweeping cityscape views, Golvet is much more than a restaurant – it's also a prime spot for taking in the sunset with an aperitif in hand.

The ambiance of sleek Nordic-inspired style pairs perfectly with the menu of high-end European fusion dishes €€. Tues–Sat D. www.golvet.de. Potsdamer Str. 58, 8th floor. T: 030.89064222. S Tiergarten. D4

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ENTERTAINMENT | THE GUIDE

Out of Africa In 1972, a young Austrian choreographer named André Heller was at an open-air market on the border to the Sahara desert, marveling at the acrobatics being performed by street artists, when the kernel of inspiration for Afrika! Afrika! was planted. Heller spent the next three decades dreaming of putting together a piece of performance theater that would showcase all of Africa’s, and the African diaspora’s, diversity in movement. It launched to great acclaim in 2005, touring throughout Europe. By the end of the tour, in 2008, it was one of Europe’s most successful dance acts, with nearly four million tickets sold.

This year, Afrika! Afrika! has a new artistic director, the former lead choreographer Georges Momboye, who has now assumed the mantle of artistic direction of the group.

Momboye, originally from the Ivory Coast, is

Alvin-Ailey trained and has lived in Paris for many years. In Afrika! Afrika! he leads a troupe of more than 50 dancers and acrobats from about 10 African countries in joyful interpretations of various African dances, from the languid Berber dances of northern Africa, the wilder dances of Senegal, the quick-footed movements from the dances of the Ivory Coast, and the famous “gumboot” dances of South Africa. Spectacular video art and a live band round out the high-gloss production.

The goal of Afrika! Afrika! is not only to foster a bridge of connection for European audiences to the African continent by joyfully showcasing the talent of African dancers and

acrobats, but also to create a union among Africans who can see their widely varied cultures and traditions brought together cohesively and respectfully. Momboye is very proud to showcase the talent of the individual artists that make up his troupe to European audiences. “It’s more than a special show.

It’s hope and pride, a dream come true for many Africans, and enriching for any audience member.” And with more than 100 dates in 28 countries this spring, their performances in Afrika!

Afrika! promise not only to reach new audiences, but new heights as well.

23–28 Jan, Theater am Potsdamer Platz, www.afrikaafrika.de

AFRIKA AFRIKA: © SVEN SEBASTIAN SAJAK; INSET: © DRAGAN MIEUSNIC.

Luisa Weiss investigates the inspiration behind the African circus Afrika! Afrika!

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BALLET & OPERA Deutsche Oper A 1960s décor-free box of acoustic magic. Director and conductor Donald Runnicles puts together rich programs with lots of Verdi, Rossini, and Mozart. 1, 3 Jan: The Nutcracker (Tchaikovsky).

2 Jan: La Bohème (Puccini). 4, 7 Jan: Le Prophète (Meyerbeer). 5, 12 Jan: Tosca (Puccini). 6, 14 Jan: Nabucco (Verdi). 13 Jan: The Barber of Seville (Rossini). 19, 21, 25 Jan: Swan Lake (Tchaikovsky).

20, 24, 27 Jan: Carmen (Bizet). 26 Jan: Così fan tutte (Mozart). 28 Jan: Salome (Strauss). 29, 30 Jan: Symphony Concert (Korngold/Bruckner). 31 Jan: Les Ballets de Monte-Carlo: Cinderella (Maillot/Prokofieff). www.deutscheoperberlin.de. T: 030.34384343.

U Deutsche Oper. B3

Komische Oper Young and daring opera productions won this theater the title of Opera House of the Year 2013.

Australian intendant Barrie Kosky is also the artistic director of some of the performances, with mesmerizing results. 1 Jan: Happy Birthday, Komische Oper! (New Year’s Concert). 5, 14, 20 Jan: The Magic Flute (Mozart). 6, 12, 19 Jan: Don Giovanni (Mozart). 7, 13 Jan: Anatevka (Bock).

21, 25 Jan: Snow White and the 77 Dwarves (KatsChernin). 26 Jan: Symphony concert 3 (Zanetti/ Maisky/Deyneka). 28 Jan: Petrushka/L’Elefant et les Sortiléges (Strawinsky/Ravel). 31 Jan: The Pearls of Cleopatra (Straus). www.komische-oper-berlin.de.

Behrensstr. 55-57. T: 030.47997400. U Französische Straße. E3

Staatsoper Unter Den Linden Berlin's historic opera house reopened in 2017 after lengthy renovations. Barenboim's perfect productions range from Baroque operas to contemporary premieres. 6, 17 Jan: La Bohème (Puccini). 7, 13, 21, 27 Jan: Don Giovanni (Mozart).

11 Jan: The Magic Flute (Mozart). 12, 14 Jan: Ariadne auf Naxos (Strauss). 28 Jan: La Traviata (Verdi). www.staatsoper-berlin.de. T: 030.2035540.

Unter den Linden 7. U Alexanderplatz. E3

Staatsballett Berlin’s ballet company currently performs at various locations. 1, 3 Jan: The Nutcracker (Tchaikovsky) at Deutsche Oper. 5, 18, 26 Jan: Jewels at Staatsoper Unter den Linden. 19, 21, 25 Jan: Swan Lake (Tchaikowsky) at Deutsche Oper.

24 Jan: Duato / Schechter at Komische Oper. www.staatsballett-berlin.de. T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3

CLASSICAL CONCERTS Hochschule für Musik Hans Eisler One of Berlin’s most prestigious music academies.

Its students are members of important orchestras, choirs, and bands, and the stage presents hundreds of concerts every year – many of which are free. www.hfm-berlin.de. Charlottenstr. 55.

T: 030.688305700. U Stadtmitte. E3

Chamber Music Hall of the Philharmonie Part of the Philharmonie, this concert hall presents daily chamber-music concerts and free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays. 1 Jan: The Festival Orchestra Berlin (cond. Stefan Bevier) plays music by Grieg and Mozart. 6 Jan: Donna Brown & friends; 13 Jan: Comedian Harmonists; 16 Jan: Winds of the Freiburger Barockorchester; 20 Jan: The KarajanAkademie der Berliner Philharmoniker plays Bach, Sibelius, Britten. 24 Jan: Les Talens Lyriques play Telemann, Rameau. www.berliner-philharmoniker.

de. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Konzerthaus This charismatic 1821 concert hall is the base theater of the Konzerthausorchester, but other orchestras and soloists grace its stage regularly.

2 Jan: Andrej Hermlin and his Swing Dance Orchestra. 12–14 Jan: Konzerthausorchester (cond. Kitajenko), play prokofiev and Tchaikovsky.

31 Jan: Lucas & Arthur Jussen and the Academy of St. Martin in the Fields play Bach and Britten. www. konzerthaus.de. Gendarmenmarkt.

T: 030.203092101. U Hausvogteiplatz. E3

Philharmonie The iconic concert venue is home to the acclaimed Berliner Philharmoniker, currently led by Sir Simon Rattle, but also hosts other ensembles and soloists. Free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays 1pm.

11–13 Jan: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond.

Pappano) perform Ravel, Mussorgsky, and more.

14 Jan: András Schiff plays Beethoven, Bach, Brahms. 19–21 Jan: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Franck) perform Mozart, Saint-Saens, Ravel.

25–27 Jan: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond.

Jansons) perform Schumann and Bruckner. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de. Herbert-vonKarajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

presents

S A Y O N A R A GEISHAS! TAMAGOTCHIS! EDELWEISS!

THE JAPAN VARIETY REVUE

by Stephan Prattes

Pierre Boulez Saal Berlin’s newest concert hall is part of the Barenboim-Said Akademie, an institution dedicated to bringing together talented young musicians from Arab, Israeli, and Christian backgrounds. A unique, modern design by the venerable Frank Gehry design ensures stunning acoustics, and co-founder Daniel Barenboim makes regular appearances on stage. 6 Jan: Alina Ibragimova abnd Cedric Tiberghien. 10 Jan: Akademie für Alte Musik & Sonia Prina.

12–14 Jan: Schubert Weekend. www.boulezsaal. de. Französische Str. 33D. T: 030 47997411. U Französische Straße. E3

Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin Injecting new expression into 19th- and 20thcentury classical works under the lead of Marek Janowski, the oldest German radio orchestra with its 103 members has won a place in the top tier of European concert orchestras. www.rsb-online.de.

Tickets: 030.20298715.

DANCE AND EXPERIMENTAL SPACES HAU (Hebbel am Ufer) Cutting-edge shows and hip performances at this off-theater and cultural point. www.hebbel-amufer.de. Stresemannstr. 29; Tempelhofer Ufer 10; Hallesches Ufer 32. T: 030.2590040. U Hallesches Tor. E4

We invite you to a visually stunning and entertaining journey through the culture, lifestyle and music of Japan – in the heart of Berlin!

Radialsystem V Once a turn-of-the-century pumping station for the Berlin Water Services, this creative space is now a cultural center and idea factory that hosts performances of all kinds, from classical concerts to jazz jam sessions to contemporary dance. www.radialsystem.de. Holzmarktstr. 33.

T: 030.288788588. S+U Jannowitzbrücke. G3

Sophiensaele Choreographer Sasha Waltz’s center for avantgarde dance, contemporary theater (mainly in German), music, and experimental performance

www.wintergarten-berlin.de Ticket-Hotline: 030 - 588 433 Potsdamer Str. 96, 10785 Berlin

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ENTERTAINMENT artists. www.sophiensaele.com. Sophienstr. 18. T: 030.2835266. U Weinmeisterstraße, S Hackescher Markt, S Oranienburger Straße. E2

26 Jan: The Architects. www.columbia-theater.de.

MOVIE THEATERS

Estrel Festival Center Berlin

CinemaxX Potsdamer Platz Multiplex cinema. Most of the movies are screened in their original language, with or without subtitles. www.cinemaxx.de. Potsdamer Str. 5.

T: 040.80806969.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Cinestar Sony Center The latest Hollywood blockbusters, in English, every day. www.cinestar.de. Potsdamer Str. 4.

T: 030.26066400.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Odeon This old-school single-screen cinema was Berlin’s first English-language theater and still screens both cult movies and new releases. Hauptstr. 116.

T: 030.78704019. S Schöneberg. C5

ROCK, POP, JAZZ Columbiahalle/C-Halle The multi-function event space hosts some of today’s most popular pop and rock acts.

Columbiadamm 13-21. T: 030.69812814.

U Platz der Luftbrücke. E5 Enjoy an evening with the world’s top look-andsound-alike artists and taste a three-course dinner during Stars In Concert, a live performance of legends like Elvis, Abba, Johnny Cash, Buddy Holly, and more. www.stars-in-concert.de. Wed– Sat 8:30pm, Sun 7pm.

Sonnenallee 225. €20, from €60 with dinner.

productions to mixed martial arts and dance.

1, 2 Jan: Roncalli Christmas circus. 6 Jan: Moscow circus on Ice. 8 Jan: La La Land. 19 Jan: Russian Circus on Ice. 28 Jan: Night of the Dance. www. tempodrom.de. Möckernstr. 10.

Toll number: 0186.554111.

S Anhalter Bahnhof. E4

THEATER, CABARET & MUSICALS

Off Map

Admiralspalast

Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin

One of Berlin’s few preserved pre-WWII variety venues offers an international, high-caliber program of musicals, cabaret, and concerts in an elegant hall from the 1920s. 4–7 Jan: Irish Celtic. 6, 13, 20, 27 Jan: Die Mauer - the sand story of the Berlin Wall. 19, 20 Jan: The Tribute to Abba & Boney M. 24–31 Jan: Rocky Horror Show. www.admiralspalast.de. Friedrichstr. 101.

T: 030.47997499.

S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

A massive arena for world-touring pop concerts and sports events, including those of Berlin’s professional ice hockey team, the Eisbären.

13, 14 Jan: Apassionata. 17, 19 Jan: Depeche Mode in concert. 21 Jan: Feuerwerk der Turnkunst.

26 Jan: ISTAF BERLIN. www.mercedes-benz-arenaberlin.de. Mühlenstr. 12–30.

T: 030.2060708899.

U Warschauer Straße. G4

Tempodrom This large concert building resembling a circus tent – and situated on the former grounds of the now-gone Anhalter Bahnhof – hosts an array of events, from classical concerts and pop-rock

Bar Jeder Vernunft A 1912 tent housing song-and-dance shows, comedy, and cabaret. Many shows in German only. 8 Jan: Piano Battle. www.bar-jedervernunft.de. Schaperstr. 24. T: 030.8831582.

U Spichernstraße. C4

Blue Man Group The unmistakable Blue Man Group has its own permanent theater, the Bluemax Theater, where the blue-domed performers present an energetic combination of music, art, pantomime, and comedy. The few spoken words are in English.

Shows take place almost every night. Check website for info. www.stage-entertainment.de.

Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4.

Toll number: 01805.4444.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Chamäleon Variete An old ballroom where audiences can experience a young genre that mixes acrobatics with music, dance, and visual arts. All month: Parade: Fear Love Circus. www.chamaeleonberlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 40/41. T: 030.4000590.

S Hackescher Markt. E2

Friedrichstadt-Palast Berlin MUST SEE With the biggest stage in the world, this is Berlin's most spectacular theater and a must-see acccording to The New York Times. Take in special effects and glitzy Vegas-style live shows.

All month: The One Grand Show, with 100 artists and acrobats, is a dreamlike journey through time in search of the one we love. www.palast.berlin Friedrichstr. 107.

T: 030.23262326.

U Friedrichstraße. E3

Hungarian-born András Schiff is more than just a fabulous pianist who's won multiple prestigious awards: he is also a renowned piano theorist, and his lectures on Beethoven's Sonatas, available on YouTube for all to watch, provide enlightening prespectives for the understanding of these near-mystical masterpieces. This month, he will be at the Philharmonie for an evening dedicated to Johannes Brahms.

Presenting the composer in the fascinating context of piano works by other musical greats, Schiff will be treating the audience to Brahms' Klavierstücke and Seven Fantasies, alternated with Beethoven's Piano Sonata n. 24, Mendelssohn's Sonate écossaise and Bach's English Suite n. 6. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de

Tipi am Kanzleramt The big tent in the Tiergarten has a vast program of musicals, magic, cabaret, dance, and theater.

Many shows are in German. www.tipi-amkanzleramt.de. Große Querallee.

T: 030.39066550.

U Bundestag. D3

Wintergarten Varieté This sumptuous variety theater that has earned a reputation for its revitalized Vaudeville-inspired productions, as well as world-famous acts.

All month: Sayonara Tokyo. www.wintergartenberlin.de. Potsdamer Str. 96.

T: 030.588433.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

© NICOLAS BRODARD

András Schiff's Perfection

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DAS MAGISCHE ZIRKUS-EREIGNIS VOM KONTINENT DES STAUNENS Show Factory & Semmel Concerts präsentieren

ON THIS MONTH

DIE

THEATER, MUSICALS & DANCE

NEUE SH0O18W

BLUE MAN GROUP Bluemax Theater, all month

THE ONE: GRAND SHOW Friedrichstadt-Palast, all month

PARADE Chamäleon Theater, all month

SAYONARA TOKYO Wintergarten Variete, all month

ANATEVKA Komische Oper, 7 Jan

ROCKY HORROR SHOW Admiralspalast, 24–31 Jan

APASSIONATA Mercedes-Benz Arena, 3, 14 Jan

2

AFRIKA! AFRIKA! nach einer Idee von André Heller www.afrikaafrika.de

23. - 28.01.2018 Theater am Potsdamer Platz www.eventim.de •

030 / 479 974 77

RESTAURANT | BAR | CLUB | EVENTS

The One Grand Show at Friedrichstadt-Palast

ROCK, JAZZ, POP DEPECHE MODE Mercedes-Benz Arena, 17, 19 Jan

LA LA LAND IN CONCERT Tempodrom, 9 Jan

TRIBUTE TO ABBA THE ONE: COURTESY OF FRIEDRICHSTADT-PALAST

Admiralspalast 19, 20 Jan

BALLET & CLASSICAL ANDRÁS SCHIFF Philharmonie, 14 Jan

THE NUTCRACKER Staatsballett, 1, 3 Jan

THE MAGIC FLUTE Staatsoper, 11 Jan

DON GIOVANNI Staatsoper, 7, 13, 21, 27 Jan

Open daily: Monday to Friday: 12.00 - 23.00 CET Saturday and Sunday: 18.00 - 23.00 CET Make your Reservation: Tel. 030 / 278 909 95 55 www.the-grand-berlin.com

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NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE

Berlin’s Club Life No other city takes fun as seriously as Berlin. Since the early '90s, when any old factory, bunker, abandoned warehouse, or bus depot could turn into an underground club from one day to the next, Berlin's nightlife has been keeping up its legendary status in Europe and beyond. The city's most famous club, Berghain (www.berghain.de), epitomizes Berlin's reputation as Europe's nightlife hub, but not everyone is willing to risk having to stand in line for an hour only to be rejected at the door – the club is known for being incredibly hard to get into. Fortunately, however, it is not the only great club in town.

Another well-known techno temple is Tresor (Köpenicker Str. 70, www.tresorberlin. de), which has been rocking the nights of generations since 1991. Once housed in the safe of an old department store, the club is now located inside Kraftwerk, a disused power plant. At the same address is a smaller

but equally impressive electronic music venue, Ohm (www.ohmberlin.com).

Known for its great parties, Ohm is more hidden than its famous neighbor, so you'll need to ask around in order to find the door, but once inside you'll find happy crowds dancing to house, techno, and electro of the best kind. The two clubs often organize joint DJ nights and performances.

Another stronghold of Berlin nightlife is Kater Blau (Holzmarktstr. 25, www.katerblau. de), the heir the popular Bar 25, once famous for its 72-hour weekends until it was forced to closed after being evicted in 2010.

Kater Blau's vibe is creative, with street art as a backdrop to the techno, house, and electronic music, and it's located inside the "grownup playground" of Holzmarkt. The

Holzmarkt estate also houses restaurants and beer gardens as part of a large, independent collective.

If electronic music is not your thing, you can relax with reggae and Latino rythms at nearby Yaam (An der Schillingbrücke 3) Like Holzmarkt, it's a rather alternative-looking riverside estate housing an indoor club and performance area, mainly dedicated to African and Latin American music and culture.

For something more glamorous, head to House of Weekend (Alexanderstr. 7, www. houseofweekend.berlin), on the top floor of an Alexander Platz high-rise. With a rooftop garden for the warmer months and a marvelous view of the whole city your round, this club is a favorite among stars, celebrities, and fashion icons.

©ISTOCK.

Solveig Steinhardt explores the city’s best clubs.

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NIGHTLIFE

BEER Ankerklause A canal-side tavern where drinks come with beautiful views of passing boats. Daily from 10am (Mon from 4pm). www.ankerklause.de. Kottbusser Damm 104. T: 030.6935649. U Schönleinstraße. F4

Café am Neuen See and Biergarten A pleasant lakeside beer garden inside the verdant Tiergarten park. Open daily from breakfast onwards. www.cafeamneuensee.de.

Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930.

S Tiergarten. C3

Club der Visionäre This canal-side boat-shack attracts young crowds till early morning and beyond. Daily from 2pm until very late (from noon Sat & Sun). www.clubdervisionaere.com. Am Flutgraben 1.

T: 030.69518942. U Schlesisches Tor, S Treptower Park. G4

Dicke Wirtin This old Berliner Kneipe restaurant is a Charlottenburg institution. Great beer and traditional German dishes. Daily from 11am. www.dicke-wirtin.de. Carmerstr. 9. T: 030.3124952.

S Savignyplatz, S+U Zoologischer Garten. B4

Prater

The Grand A former school building has been transformed into a super-hip restaurant, bar and club all mixed into one. Enjoy top cocktails and a selection of cigars on the green leather couches in the 1920s-inspired bar, then dance the night away in the chic, intimate club. www.the-grand-berlin.com. Hirtenstr. 4.

T: 030.2789099555.

S+U Alexanderplatz. B4

Green Door Cocktail Bar One of Berlin’s most relaxing cocktail bars, with a retro style and lots of kitsch décor. The cocktail list is long and the barman famous. Daily 6pm–3am (Fri–Sat until 4am). www.greendoor.de.

Winterfeldtstr. 50. T: 030.2152515.

U Nollendorfplatz. D4

The Unique Bar An international drink menu with 200+ different cocktails, served to a jazz soundtrack. Mon–Sat from 4pm. www.esplanade.de. Grand Hotel Esplanade Berlin, Lützowufer 15.

T: 030.254780. Bus M29, stop Lützowplatz. D4

Berlin’s oldest Biergarten serves simple and homely cuisine, seasonal specialties, and lots of beer of course! Daily from 6pm (from noon Sat). www.pratergarten.de. Kastanienallee 7-9.

T: 030.4485688. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Schleusenkrug

Newton Bar

A relaxing spot for beer lovers amid the lush greenery of the Tiergarten. German specialties to go with your beer include a variety of cakes, Flammkuchen, and a few breakfast options. Daily from 11am. www.schleusenkrug.de. Müller-BreslauStr. T: 030.3139909. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

Cigars, champagne, whiskey, and cocktails define this bar, which is entirely dedicated to fashion photographer Helmut Newton. Daily 10am–3am (until 4am Fri–Sat). www.newton-bar.de.

Charlottenstr. 57. T: 030.20295421.

U Französische Straße. E3

Spielbank Berlin A modern casino offering three floors of fun and games, including 20 tables of roulette, blackjack, and an extensive variety of poker options, as well as 350 gaming machines.

Daily from 11am. www.spielbank-berlin.de.

Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1. T: 030.255990. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3/D4

WINE & COCKTAILS Bar Tausend Celebrities mingle while watching the expert mixologists do their magic at this futuristic bar. Thu–Sat from 7:30pm. www.tausendberlin.com.

Schiffbauerdamm 11.

T: 030.27582070.

S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Fragrances The Ritz-Carlton’s bar is the world’s only to pair cocktails with perfumes.

Each drink is represented by a tester bottle of the perfume it’s based on and a photo illustrating the

CLUB GUIDE BERGHAIN/PANORAMA BAR The world's most famous techno club – and with the toughest doormen too.

Fri 12am–Mon. www.berghain.de.

Am Wriezener Bahnhof. G3

KATER BLAU A top-notch soundsystem driving house and techno beats from the best DJs, and a carnival-like atmosphere.

Fri–Sat from midnight. www.katerblau.de.

Holzmarktstr. 25. G3

TRESOR Housed in the safe of a department store, Tresor was the first techno club in Berlin’s post-Wall years. www.tresorberlin.com.

Köpenicker Str. 70. F3

WATERGATE

LaBanca Bar The Hotel de Rome’s bar team specializes in avantgarde cocktails made with unusual ingredients such as balsamic vinegar, rose petals, or ginger beer. Live music Wed–Sat, rooftop terrace in summer. www.hotelderome.com. Behrenstr. 37.

T: 030.4606090. U Französische Straße. E3

CASINOS

© ISTOCK.

final presentation, which ranges from playful to whimsical. www.ritzcarlton.com. Potsdamer Platz 3.

T:030.337777. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Reingold A classic cocktail bar, 1920s style. Elegant leather sofas, sumptuous lighting, and gilded elements with a soundtrack ranging from soul and funk to R&B. Tue–Sat from 7pm. www.reingold.de. Novalisstr. 11.

T: 030.28387676.

U Oranienburger Tor. E2

Schwarzes Café A 24-hour combination of a bar and a café, with a good selection of beer and wine and hot meals at any time of night. Lovely garden. 24h a day except Tue from 3–10am. www. schwarzescafe-berlin.de. Kantstr.

148.

T: 030.3138038.

U Uhlandstraße, U Savignyplatz. B4

Times Bar A fine and luxurious bar inside the Savoy Hotel, offering modern drinks and Caribbean cocktails alongside a selection of Cuban cigars. www.weinrot-restaurant.com.

Fasanenstr. 9-10. T: 030.311030.

S Savignyplatz. C4

Happy 2018! Time for a toast with some quality champagne at The Grand (this page).

A two-story electro, house, and drum & bass temple, right on the Spree River. Tight doors. Mon, Wed–Sat from midnight. www.water-gate.de.

Falckensteinstr. 49. G4

HOUSE OF WEEKEND Three floors, fabulous views over the city, and the best DJs playing techno and house.

Fri–Sun from 11pm. www.week-end-berlin.de.

Alexanderplatz 7. F3

CLÄRCHENS BALLHAUS A popular, century-old dance hall. It's salsa on Mon, tango on Tues, swing on Wed, cha cha on Thu, and live ballroom music on Fri+Sat. www.ballhaus.de.

Auguststr. 24.

U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

HORNS & HOOVES An eccentric combination of club, piano bar, cabaret, and circus. www.hornsandhooves.de.

Danziger Str. 1. F1

GRETCHEN Funk, hip hop, drum & bass and electronica at this eclectic Kreuzberg club.

Fri & Sat. www.gretchen-club.de.

Obentrautstr. 19-21. E4

PURO SKY LOUNGE High-heeled crowds in a sleek, luxurious setting on the roof of the Europa Center.

Wed–Sat from 8pm. www.puroberlin.de.

Tauentzienstr. 9-12. C4

THE PEARL Luxurious club for the poshest crowds, Thu–Sat until 7am. www.thepearl-berlin.de.

Fasanenstr. 81. G4

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ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE USEFUL INFORMATION Emergency numbers Police, call 110 free from any phone.

Ambulance or fire, call 112 free from any phone.

Medical Services, T: 030.310031.

24h Pharmacy: Hauptbahnhof Apotheke.

T: 030.20614190. S Hauptbahnhof.

Berlin Police hotline, T: 030.46644664.

Emergency dental services, T: 030.89004333.

Poison hotline, T: 030.19240.

National emergency number for on-call medical service, T: 116117.

Berlin lost and found office, T: 030.902773101.

BERLIN AIRPORTS Berlin Tegel (TXL) Approx. 10 km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150.

TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By bus: Buses 109 or X9 to Zoologischer Garten

Nobody knows the city better than your expert concierges.

Marc Schnabel, concierge at the Kempinski Hotel Bristol Berlin, is here to help. www.lcdg.org What would your perfect day look like?

After delicious eggs Benedict at Eiffel on Ku'damm, I’d walk to KaDeWe to check out the latest trends in fashion, followed by fresh fish for lunch in the delicatessen department. The afternoon is dedicated to nature and a visit to the Berlin Zoo, Germany's oldest and most biodiverse zoo. The evening will be musical: The One in Friedrichstadt Palast is a unique show, as is the after-show at Bricks.

Where do you take guests?

I'd take them on a tour on a City Circle bus, which takes you to all the main sights and gives a professional explanation of the city. We'd get off at Checkpoint Charlie and walk to Brandenburger Tor. I always recommend a visit to the Siegessäule to admire the Tiergarten view from up there.

Any insider tips?

The Berlin area is as diverse as the culture of the city center. In addition to admiring large lakes (like Müggelsee) or going on little excursions (for example to Teufelsberg), you can shop (at the B 5 Outlet Center), or visit an empty airport (such as the BBI airport).

What do you do after work?

Soak up the Berlin bar culture in Charlottenburg. Dicke Wirtin, Zwiebelfisch,

or Wirtshaus Wuppke give you the opportunity to forget the hustle and bustle of the city and learn a little about the neighborhood.

And if you want to relax?

Tiergarten, with its large meadows and waterways. A gem in the middle of the action.

Tips for a German specialty?

Invented and perfected in Berlin: the Currywurst - really good at Curry 36 and Konnopke's, but also at Biers (Ku'damm 195).

Do you know a romantic place in Berlin?

A walk around Peacock Island in good weather can hardly be topped. No traffic, free-running peacocks, and the view over the Havel will do any couple good.

The perfect Berlin souvenir?

I personally collect magnets from destinations that I have visited. From Berlin you must get a piece of the Wall or the Brandenburg Gate. I have both on my fridge.

Your Berlin nightlife tip?

Club hopping – the variety of Berlin nightclubs is unbeatable.

Images: Berlin souvenirs; Gendarmenmarkt; Eisbein.

Berlin Schönefeld (SXF) Approx. 20 km (12 miles) southeast of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150.

TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By regional train: Deutsche Bahn-operated

RE7 or RB14 to Ostbahnhof, Alexanderplatz, Hauptbahnhof, and Zoologischer Garten. RE9 to Hauptbahnhof via Südkreuz and Potsdamer Platz.

Trains take approx. 45 mins. Tickets cost €3.40.

By S-Bahn: Trains S9 and S45 to Hauptbahnhof, via Ostkreuz and Südkreuz respectively, run. every 20 mins, taking approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.40.

By U-Bahn: Bus X7 and X11 to Rudow station connect with the U-Bahn system and run every 10 mins. Journey approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.40.

By (night) bus: Arrivals between midnight and 4am Mon–Fri can take bus N7 to central areas.

By taxi: Regular cabs take approx. 30 mins to city center, costing €30–€40.

Left luggage: At the multi-storey car park P4.

T: 030.60911150.

GETTING AROUND Public Transport

www.bvg.de.

Fares Buy tickets from machines in the station, and be sure to validate them in the posts next to the ticket machines. Single tickets cost €2.80; or save by paying €9 for four single-trip tickets, which you can validate as you need. If traveling fewer than three train stations or six bus or tram stops, buy a short-trip ticket for €1.70. Day tickets cost €7 for unlimited travel until 3am the following day, or if you are traveling with others, a small group ticket will get up to five people unlimited travel for €19.90. For those staying longer, a pass valid for seven days may be a better value at €30.

ALL PHOTOS: © ISTOCK.

ASK THE CONCIERGE

run every 10 mins, taking approx. 20 mins. The TXL express bus to Alexanderplatz via Hauptbahnhof runs every 5–10 mins, taking. 25 mins. Single tickets cost €2.80 and can be bought on board.

By U-Bahn: Bus 109 or X9 connects to the U-Bahn system at Jakob-Kaiser-Platz. Bus 128 links to the U-Bahn at Kurt-Schumacher-Platz and runs every 10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. Tickets cost €2.80.

By taxi: Regular cabs take 10–20 mins to city center. Approx. €20–€35.

Left luggage: Service center in Terminal A (ground floor). T: 030.41012315.

54 W H E R E B E R L I N I J A N UA R Y 2018

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ESSENTIALS U-Bahn The underground system is extensive. Most lines run every five minutes (less frequently outside working hours), 4am–12:30am (replaced by night buses outside of these times). The entire U-Bahn and S-Bahn network runs all night on weekends.

Friedrichstraße

S-Bahn The above-ground system is faster than the U-Bahn but less frequent. Trains run every 10–20 mins. Timing and ticket rules apply as above.

Public Ferries With a regular BVG ticket ,you can hop on one of the six public ferry lines. Most beautiful is the trip from Wannsee to lakeside Kladow village; ferries leave every hour and take about 20 minutes.

Rail Travel Deutsche Bahn is the railway company that manages the Regional Bahn (RB) and Regional Express (RE) trains, operating around greater Berlin and Potsdam. The Intercity (IC) and European City (EC) trains travel further afield. www.bahn.de. Toll number: 0180.6996633.

VBB is a public transportation authority created to reconnect Berlin to the surrounding Brandenburg area after German reunification.It offers services to metropolitan Berlin as well as to the rural communities in the countryside of Brandenburg. www.vbb.de

Rent A Bike Explore Berlin by bike.

Deutsche Bahn Call-a-Bike service:

Taxis

Tax-Free Shopping

Würfelfunk: T: 030.210101.

German law entitles all non-EU residents to a VAT tax refund. Look for stores displaying the Premier Tax Free sign and ask for a "tax-free form." When leaving the EU, goods and the completed form must be shown to a customs agent, from which a customs stamp must be obtained no more than three months after the date of purchase. Goods must be unused. Present the stamped form at the refund counter in the airport, or send it to Premier Tax Free as soon as you reach your destination. www.premiertaxfree.com.

MONEY SERVICES Banks and Foreign Exchange Exchange AG: Friedrichstr. 172. T: 030.20649296.

Deutsche Bank: Kurfürstendamm 111. T: 030.8904370.

Lost Cards and Cheques American Express: T: 069.97972000 Diners Club: T: 07531.3633111 MasterCard: T: 0800.8191040 Visa: T: 0800.8118440

MAP LICENSE NUMBER: BVG 0050.16; © ISTOCK.

www.callabike.de.

STATIOHNE OF T TH MON

Friedrichstraße station is always bustling, both underground on the platform of the U6 line or aboveground, where multiple S-Bahn lines converge in the high, glassed-in atrium. It’s not only a necessary transfer stop for travelers on their way to popular sights like Museum Island or Mitte’s busiest shopping area, the station has another major plus: the supermarket on the ground floor is open on Sundays.

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14/11/2017 16:45

WHERE NOW | JENNIFER KRONOVET

JENNIFER KRONOVET POET Jennifer Kronovet certainly has a way with words. Besides writing her own poetry, she has also translated the work of other poets from Yiddish and Chinese, and co-founded the Circumference journal for poetry in translation. Her second poetry collection, The Wug Test, was published in late 2016, playing with and testing the limits of the language we rely on to express ourselves. www.jenniferkronovet.com

The complexity of language is something you’ve engaged with frequently in your poetry. How did this interest come about, and has living in Germany added another dimension?

I was 10 or 11 when my best friend and I decided to repeat one word over and over again for fun. This was before the internet. After a while, the word lost all meaning and became a random jumble of sounds. It was terrifying and exhilarating. Years later I started reading poetry that pushes language to its limits to get at what is hardest to express in words, and I found my medium. If you’re a nerd about English, and I’m a big nerd about English, German is candy. It’s always shining a light on how English works in a way that is totally pleasurable.

What’s been your experience of Berlin’s literary scene?

If you’re the kind of writer who likes to talk with other writers and hear new work at readings— and I am—then Berlin is awesome. Not only are there international literary festivals, multiple reading series, and small press fairs, but it’s also a city that writers from around the world drop in on all the time.

What are some ways this city feeds you as a writer?

I grew up in New York City, so my relationship to the natural world is very very limited. The other day I took some kids to the zoo and

another parent had to correct my naming of the animals several times. In Berlin, I can spend the day in Grünewald forest or circumnavigating some lake, and then ride the U-Bahn with a guy carrying an accordion and two women dressed up as anime characters. It’s such a green city, but it’s still a real city. I’m trying to see what noticing more about the natural world will do to my brain.

Which part of the city do you call home, and what are some favorite places there?

I live in Dahlem and there are two places around here I love most. If you take a stroll into the Grünewald you might end up at a beer garden called Paulsborn where you can get amazing sausages, fries, and the best krautsalat. I also love Domäne Dahlem, a farm/museum. We took our kids to the potato festival and watched them scramble behind a tractor for potatoes in the dirt.

When friends or family come to visit, where do you take them?

Because my family is Jewish, there’s been an interesting reckoning when family comes to visit. We want a way to face the history here, and Berlin does a good job of commemorating the dark parts of its history. Gleis 17, the train platform where Berlin’s Jews were sent to the camps, is a moving remembrance that honors

the past. I’ve been many times, and every time is just as powerful.

What would your perfect Berlin day look like?

My perfect Berlin day is absolutely impossible time-wise, so this is more of a fantasy day. My daughter wakes up first and makes us pancakes.

Then, we hop on our bikes and ride to the Waldhochseilgarten, where we get in harnesses and zip through the trees like Ewoks. After that, we beam ourselves over to Neukölln where friends meet us for the best vegan buffet brunch at Café Vux. I’m not even vegan! We drop the kids off at a birthday party and go to a spa. I’m still a little weirded out by hanging out with strangers naked, but I really like saunas, so I’m trying to become more German about it. We pick the kids up and go to my favorite museum, Hamburger Bahnhof. I am especially drawn to a recording of instruments damaged in war. Then I head to my favorite place in all of Berlin, my kung fu school, Siu Lam Wing Chun Pai. The instruction is fantastic—powerful, full of insight, and fun.

When I get home, my husband has saved me some dinner, and we get to talk about our perfect Berlin day.

Clockwise from top left: A Berlin lake; Jennifer Kronovet; a climbing park; Hamburger Bahnhof; sausages. Inset: Kronovet's book of poetry, The Wug Test.

LAKE, CLIMBING PARK, SAUSAGES: © ISTOCK: HAMBURGER BAHNHOF: © STAATLICHE MUSEEN ZU BERLIN. FOTO: MAXIMILIAN MEISSE. JENNIFER KRONOVET AND THE WUG TEST: COURTEOF JENNIFER KRONOVET.

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