Where Magazine Berlin July 2018 by Morris Media Network

BERLIN CITY GUIDE ®

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

WHERETRAVELER.COM

JULY 2018

START YOUR ENGINES Discover the city on four wheels

PLUS SUNNYDAY OUTINGS BERLIN'S BEST MARKETS BIERGARTEN SEASON

SHOPPING | ENTERTAINMENT | CULTURE | DINING | MAPS WB JULY COVER.indd 1

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BEST OF SHOPPING MORE THAN 300 SHOPS

PHOTO: WORMLAND

DELICIOUS FOOD HALL

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Berlin

CONTENTS

07.18 See more of Berlin at wheretraveler.com

The Guide The best of Berlin

10 88

5 Editor’s Note

6 Hot Dates

SHOPPING

Fill your suitcase at Rosenthaler Platz before heading home.

Highlights of the month’s can’tmiss events, from street theater to open-air concerts and the CSD parade.

SIGHTSEEING

XX and the Cold Palaces War: here are some good reasons to visit Potsdam.

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Learn XX more about Berlin without setting foot inside a museum.

14 16

18 Ask The Concierge

DINING

Al fresco dining hidden in city courtyards.

Berlin's concierges share their secrets.

ENTERTAINMENT

Football fever hits Berlin as the FIFA World Cup begins.

66 My Berlin

Sigrid Grajek Impressions of the swinging 1920s by a Berlin-based cabaret performer.

NIGHTLIFE

The best beer gardens according to atmosphere and beer quality.

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BY THE WHERE TEAM

Our favorite waterside places.

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ON THE COVER: A PORSCHE 911 IN FRONT OF THE EAST SIDE GALLERY, COURTESY OF PORSCHE DRIVE.

36 Down by the Water

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08/06/2018 11:39

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PAGE 64

WB JULY COVER.indd 1

BY THE WHERE TEAM

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SHOPPING | ENTERTAINMENT | CULTURE | DINING | MAPS

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Relax, reset, and unwind! Three itineraries for enjoying the sunny season.

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PLUS SUNNYDAY OUTINGS

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10 Summer Days

Discover the city on four wheels

Tour the city in a vintage car or rent a Porsche for the fast pace of the German Autobahn. BY SOLVEIG STEINHARDT

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START YOUR ENGINES

Where Now

JULY 2018

WHERETRAVELER.COM

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RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

ESSENTIALS

Useful information for your stay in Berlin.

16 Drive My Car

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BERLIN CITY GUIDE

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BERLIN LACHT : COURTESY OF BERLIN LACHT AND NAFSI ACROBATS; STRANDBAR MITTE: COURTESY OF STRANDBAR MITTE; SAUSAGE: © ISTOCK; SIGRID GRAJEK: PHOTO © GUIDO WOLLER; BAG BY CODELLO; CAR AND SIEGESSÄULE: © ISTOCK.

The Plan Let’s get started

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4 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U LY 2018

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WELCOME TO BERLIN

Jump In The Water The recipe for a great summer includes glorious weather and plenty of free time to enjoy it, but also lots of refreshing escapes. Fortunately, Berlin is filled with rivers and canals, so waterside spots abound. You can go swimming in one of the city's lakes, sip a cocktail at a beach bar, go on a river cruise, rent a boat, dine aboard a yacht, and even dive into an old barge turned swimming pool. We love water so much that we decided to put our heads together to compile a comprehensive list of our favorite waterside places (pages 10–13 and p. 36). It's also World Cup time. The final is on 15 July, so don't forget to pick a good spot to enjoy the most important game of the year. Need some ideas? Turn to page 54 for some of the city's most popular spots. Have a wonderful summer!

PORTRAIT BY THOMAS HEDRICH/FOTOSTUDIO CHARLOTTENBURG; SKYLINE © TOTALPICS/ISTICK/THINKSTOCK.

SOLVEIG STEINHARDT EDITOR, WHERE BERLIN

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HOT

DATES

CLASSIC OPEN AIR FROM THURSDAY

The capitalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most beautiful square, Gendarmenmarkt, provides a stunning backdrop to this five-night-long concert series. The open-air program kicks off with the Deutsche Film Orchester Babelsberg, well known for its great film music, and ends with Classics of Soul & Funk. www.classicopenair.de

XXXXXXPHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE OR PRESS COMMAND + SHIFT THEN CLICK TO CHANGE

July is a great month to be in Berlin. From comedy festivals to classical music and street parades, this month is filled with fabulous events.

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WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

BERLIN LACHT ALL MONTH

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Laughter, just what the doctor ordered! 150 performing artists, including acrobats, clowns, comedians, puppeteers, and more, will be taking part in this awe-inspiring international street theater festival taking over Friedrichstraße until 22 July and Alexanderplatz from 26 July to 12 August. Shows are free, but don’t shy away from dropping some coins into the hat. www.berlin-lacht.de

BOTANICAL NIGHT FROM FRIDAY

Once a year, Berlin's botanical garden turns into a truly romantic and magical place, as a 16-km-long path along flowerbeds and themed gardens is illuminated and populated by mythical creatures. Until 2am visitors can join guided tours, enjoy the night’s cultural program, and be dazzled by fireworks painting florets in the sky as a grand finale. www.botanische-nacht.de

19 BILLY IDOL THURSDAY

The blonde shock-rock rebel returns to the stage, showcasing a 40-year-long career. Having first achieved fame in the 1970s as part of punk rock band Generation X, he later went solo and was propelled into international stardom with hit singles such as Dancing with Myself, Cradle of Love, and Sweet Sixteen - staples of the MTVdriven "second British invasion" in the U.S. Don't miss his characteristic aggressive attitude and middle-finger charm at Zitadelle Spandau. www.citadel-music-festival.de

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JULY a KOMISCHE OPER FESTIVAL FROM TUESDAY

Under the direction of worldrenowned Barrie Kosky, the Komische Oper shows off its new productions for the season in this weeklong event. Festivalgoers will be treated to welcome drinks and music, introductory talks, and panel discussions with the artists on classics such as La Bohème and Candide. Candide www.komische-oper-berlin.de

CHRISTOPHER STREET PARADE SATURDAY

Whip out your rainbow flag and join hundreds of thousands of others supporting our LGBT friends as they roll past in colorful floats and beats. Starting around noon, the parade steps off at Joachimsthaler Straße, marches past the Siegessäule, and ends at the triumphant Brandenburg Gate for partytime. Get into the mood for CSD at the Lesbian and Gay Festival at Nollendorfplatz the weekend before. www.csd-berlin.de

NICK CAVE SATURDAY

Characterized by emotional depth and lyrical obsessions with love, religion, violence, and death, Nick Cave remains a rock legend, and his new album Skeleton Tree has been described as some of his best work yet. Do not miss his melancholy intensity on 14 July. www.waldbuehne-berlin.de

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HOT DATES

to the last day of the MakeCity Festival 1 Head and get inspired by new urban alternatives. superstar band Nine Inch Nails plays a 2 Goth massive show tonight at Zitadelle Spandau. for your closeup? Berlin Fashion Week 3 Ready kicks off today and continues until 7 July. a performance of La Gioconda, Ponchielli's 4 Enjoy dramatic lyric opera, at Deutsche Oper. off in grand style at Gendarmenmarkt: 5 Kicking the Classic Open air concert festival. Berliner Dom cathedral begins its summer 6 The organ festival with a concert of Bach & Smetana. a grand Saturday night out at The Grand, a 7 Have chic Mitte spot for dinner and dancing. the program at the Komische Oper: Bizet's 8 On lively and passionate opera Carmen. going strong since the '70s, soul-funk group 9 Still Earth, Wind & Fire plays live at Gendarmenmarkt. fans: Don't miss the enlightening Picasso 10 Picasso And His Time exhibition at Museum Berggruen. soul / R&B superstar D'Angelo is finally 11 American touring again and plays Columbiahalle tonight. a concert from Californian punk band the 12 Catch Descendants at ASTRA Kulturhaus. to Potsdam's Belvedere palace all weekend for 13 Head the royalty-inspired Königliche Weinfest. songwriter and velvet-voiced crooner 14 Legendary Burt Bacharach takes the stage at Admiralspalast. for treasures and join in the open-air 15 Browse karaoke at the huge Mauerpark flea market. Martin-Gropius-Bau for Welt Ohne Aussen, an 16 Visit impressive exhibit of immersive artworks. Canadian singer-songwriter-pianist Rufus 17 Soulful Wainwright fills Apostel Paulus Kirche with music. rock band The Hooters stops at Columbia 18 Philly Theater tonight on their Give the Music Back tour. punker Billy Idol is at Zitadelle Spandau to 19 Brit sing classics like Rebel Yell and White Wedding. off the weekend at the sprawling beer 20 Kick gardens of the Stone Brewery in Mariendorf. Botanical Gardens host Botanische Nacht, a 21 The magical evening of concerts and performances. Berlin's wild 1920s era with a performance 22 Relive of Cabaret at the TIPI variety theater. a movie under the stars at the open-air 23 Enjoy theater Freiluftkino Kreuzberg. a musical lunch break at the Philharmonie's 24 Take free "lunch concert" at 1pm. surfer turned singer-songwriter Jack 25 Hawaiian Johnson plays a show at Zitadelle Spandau. on international delicacies at the Street 26 Feast Food Thursday event at Markthalle Neun. cool beers under the shade of chestnut 27 Sip trees at Prater, the city's oldest Biergarten. your rainbow flag ready: The huge Christopher 28 Get Street Day parade starts at noon on the Ku'damm. folk singer Joan Baez plays at Zitadelle 29 1960s Spandau on her Fare Thee Well tour. some cool music at the Experimontag event 30 Hear at Kreuzberg's Madame Claude bar. successful punk rockers Bad Religion are 31 Big-time back in Berlin to play at Columbiahalle.

BERLIN LACHT: COURTESY OF BERLIN LACHT AND NAFSI ACROBATS; BILLY IDOL: PHOTO BY EDISON GRAFF; BOTANISCHE NACHT: COURTESY OF BOTANISCHE NACHT; CSD: © ISTOCK; CLASSIC OPEN AIR: COURTESY OF CLASSIC OPEN AIR; KOMISCHE OPER: COURTESY OF KOMISCHE OPER BERLIN, ANATEVKA, ©IKOFREESE DRAMA BERLIN; NICK CAVE: COURTESY OF PR.

WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

For more ideas, see our Entertainment section.

12/06/2018 15:18

BERLIN WELCOMES YOU! Events and info presenting Berlinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s multifaceted LGBTTIQ* community. Online and for free. During the BERLIN PRIDE SEASON around Berlin Pride, lesbian, gay, bisexual, transgender, transsexual, intersex and queer Berliners present themselves in all their diversity with a great number of events. The BERLIN PRIDE GUIDE offers an overview of a great choice of events as well as lots of good-to-know stuff concerning the Berlin LGBTTIQ* community. More info and events online:

BERLIN-PRIDE.DE

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Summer Days The peak of summer has arrived and the city has switched to holiday mode. Relax, reset, and unwind with Annabelle Mallia’s top 3 itineraries for the sunny season.

Itinerary # 1 WAY DOWN SOUTH 11:00 TWIN LAKES

Fischerhütte

Sure, the ocean is a few hours away, but that doesn’t stop locals from enjoying the beach on a hot day. Of all the lakes within city limits, possibly the most idyllic is Krumme Lanke in the southwestern part of Berlin, due to its small size and location on the edge of Grunewald forest. In true German fashion, the nudist beach is the first one you reach, while the sandy beach is a 10-minute walk to the other side. Nearby Schlachtensee is slightly wilder so you’ll have to find your own spot between the trees by the water, but once you do, you’ll be rewarded with lots of privacy. The Fischerhütte restaurant and beer garten (www.fischerhuette-berlin.de) on its shores serves up tasty German-Austrian cuisine with a generous side portion of lake views.

15:00 A PIECE OF THE BALTIC SEA The lido that has been most popular amongst Berliners for decades

is surely Strandbar Wannsee (www. berlinerbaeder.de), effectively the next lake down. It costs €5.50 to enter, but boasts more than a kilometer of white sand imported from the Baltic Coast and the typical striped wicker beach chairs. There is also a water slide, beach volleyball, and lots of snack options, not to mention a majestic view of the yacht-club-rimmed expanse of water.

STERN UND KREIS: COURTESY OF STERN UND KREIS; FISCHERHÜTTE: COURTESY OF FISCHERHÜTTE; SCHLACHTENSEE: © ISTOCK. OPPOSITE PAGE: STRANDBAR MITTE, PHOTO BY BERND SCHÖNBERGER; CAFE AM NEUEN SEE: COURTESY OF CAFE AM NEUEN SEE; WANNSEE: © ISTOCK.

Left: river cruises in Köpenick; This photo: A beach at Schlachtensee.

18:00 SHIP AHOY A river cruise is a great way to sit back and take in the sights. Departing from Wannsee pier, the two-hour 7 Lakes tour with Stern und Kreis (www. sternundkreis.de) takes you along the chain of lakes between Berlin and Potsdam, alternating between stunning nature and Prussian castles. Alternatively, you can catch the F10 ferry across the lake to Kladow, where you’ll find restaurants, a small bathing area, and playgrounds and requires no more than a valid BVG public transport ticket.

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WHERE NOW | FUN IN THE SUN

NEUEN SEE: COURTESY OF CAFE AM NEUEN SEE; WANNSEE: © ISTOCK.

Café am neuen See.

Outdoor dancing at Strandbar Mitte.

Itinerary #2 IN THE MITTE OF IT ALL 11:00 GREEN DAY Berlin is said to be one of the greenest cities in Europe, and this is evident even in the city center at Tiergarten, our “Central Park” so to say. Originally a hunting ground of the Prussian royals, the tree-dense park is filled with romantic canals, lush meadows, and beautiful gardens.

13:00 SUMMER = BEER GARDEN With its proud beer-drinking tradition, Berlin is host to some very pleasant outdoor locales. At pondside Café am Neuen See (www.cafeamneuensee.de), at the western end of Tiergarten, you can fill up on wood-fired pizza and German beer followed by a splash around in the paddleboats on hire. Or continue along the canal (taking a peek at the Berlin Zoo animals on the way) to Schleusenkrug (www.schleusenkrug.de), where free-range meat sizzles on the grill and, if you grab the right table, you can watch the boats as they pass through the water lock.

15:00 A MUSICAL NOTE What’s that I hear? Relax in the park on Sunday afternoons listening to the bass bells chime as Jeffrey Bossin plays Europe’s largest carillon (www. carillon-berlin.de) near the Chancellery in the northeast part of Tiergarten Or pack a bottle of wine and head to the Teehaus im Englischen Garten (www.das-teehaus.com), near Schloss Bellevue, for their free summer concert series. They are currently celebrating their 25th anniversary, so the musical lineup is said to be especially good this year.

20:00 HOT TO TROT Strandbar Mitte (www.monbijoutheater.de) is where city beach meets nightlife. Technically this ever-popular spot sits on the banks of the Spree River, but the view of Museum Island means nobody has ever complained. Every evening the outdoor dance floor beckons jitterbug, cha cha, salsa, and tango fans, who admittedly aren’t quite catered to by Berlin’s famed techno scene. Come an hour early for a dance lesson or late afternoon on weekends.

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WHERE NOW | FUN IN THE SUN

Clockwise from this photo: Stand Up Club; a club on enjoying tropical Clockwise fromthe thisSpree; photo: Stand Up Club; drinks; yoga at Arena a club on the Spree; enjoying tropical Badeschiff. drinks; yoga at Arena Badeschiff.

9:00 SUN SALUTE Yoga gurus will agree an open-air downward dog is simply bliss. Start your day in the eastern district of Friedrichshain with a waterside lesson at Arena Badeschiff (www.arena.berlin), an old industrial barge turned into a floating pool in the middle of the Spree River, followed by a post-workout dip.

12:00 ISLAND MENTALITY Berliners love nothing more than to laze around at their favorite park. Treptower Park wins the

medal in this part of the city with its atmospheric esplanade and idyllic beer garden on Insel der Jugend (www. inselberlin.de). After getting your fill, cool down by dipping your toes in the river or rent a boat and circumnavigate the island.

18:00 PADDLE POWER If you’re looking for more adventure, Berlin Kayak Tours (www.kajakberlintours.de) offers a range of options, including the threehour “Panoramic Berlin Tour” – a sunset exploration starting in Kreuzberg and touring east to Osthafen. Or join

the latest SUP paddling craze from Hawaii at Stand Up Club Berlin (www. standupclub.de), steering you past the city’s clubbing district and ruins of the Berlin Wall.

21:00 POOL PARTY For some poolside glamour, head to Haubentaucher (www.haubentaucher.berlin), set in a former railway yard. Its expansive blue pool, beach bar, palm trees, and occasional DJ appearances means it has a bit of an L.A. pool party vibe going on. Perfect for celebrating the Berlin summer with a fruity cocktail in hand.

STAND UP CLUB: COURTESY OF STAND UP CLUB; ARENA BADESCHIFF YOGA: COURTESY OF ARENA BADESCHIFF; ALL OTHER PHOTOS: © ISTOCK.

Itinerary# 3 A TAD EAST

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S ´ N I L R E B BEST BITE

DISCOVE R N ATURE ’S GR E AT A D V E N T U R E S IN GE R M A NY ’ S LARGE ST N AT U R A L HI STORY M U S E U M OPENING HOURS Tuesday – Friday Weekend, Public Holidays

09.30 – 18.00 hrs 10.00 – 18.00 hrs

HOW TO GET HERE Invalidenstraße 43 | 10115 Berlin U6 / M5 / M8 / M10 / 12 Naturkundemuseum

M US E UMF U E R NATURK UNDE.BERLIN /mfnberlin

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, t e k r a M To To Market! Hilda Hoy will be at the farmers’ markets all month to stock up on the sweetest summer strawberries.

o experience an authentic slice of local life, just stop by one of the city’s numerous markets. Generic, sterile supermarkets be damned – the tradition of shopping at outdoor markets never quite died out in Berlin. In fact, it’s alive and well, as a visit to one of them will attest. These markets are not only for stocking up on the freshest, seasonal produce, artisanal meats and cheeses, and a bouquet of flowers for the table. They’re also for grabbing a delicious bite to eat, bumping into friends and neighbors, and relaxing in the sun. Here are the best markets for foodies of all stripes.

WINTERFELDTMARKT Wed 8–2pm, Sat 8am–4pm www.winterfeldt-markt.de I don’t live in Schöneberg, but I make the trip there as often as possible to visit this lovely, lively market on Winterfeldtplatz. On Saturdays, the busier of the twice-weekly market days, up to 250 vendors cram the square with high-quality produce and foodstuffs, such as organic and biodynamic produce, raw milk cheese, locally made salami, and flax oil extracted fresh before your eyes. The selection of farm-direct fruit and veg is the best I’ve found in the city. But another great reason to come are the food stands, selling things like grilled-toorder trout and mackerel, Swiss raclette cheese melted onto fresh bread, and Russian pelmeni dumplings. Don’t miss the Bauer Lindner stand at the market’s northwest corner, selling organic sausages hot off the grill with a dollop of their homemade mustard.

MAYBACHUFER Tue & Fri 11am–6:30pm www.diemarktplaner.de/maybachufer Colloquially referred to as “the Turkish market,” this perpetually busy, oftenraucous market next to Kreuzberg’s canal is always a good time. Stretching for several hundred meters along the Maybachufer embankment, this market attracts an eager crowd of local hipsters and headscarved housewives with its lush and very affordable goods. In addition to plenty of produce, herbs, cheese, and olives, you’ll find beekeepers selling their honey and local artisans with crafts like wood carvings, felted slippers, and jewelry. When hunger strikes, head to the Turkish and Arabic vendors hawking hot falafel, corn on the cob, and gözleme, cheese-stuffed flatbread cooked on a griddle. Or put together a canal-side picnic with olives, spicy cheese and herb spreads, and fluffy Turkish pide bread.

KOLLWITZPLATZ Thu 12pm–7pm, Sat 9am–4pm www.grueneliga-berlin.de The square at the heart of this charmingly yuppie neighborhood hosts a bustling market twice a week. Thursdays bring the “Eco-Market,” with a selection of exclusively organic or earth-friendly produce and goods, such as homespun wool, foraged herbs, free-range eggs, and bread from self-milled flour. Unlike most markets, the Eco-Market doesn’t start until noon to enable farmers to harvest early in the morning before bringing their bounty to market. There are plenty of organic and specialty vendors at the busier

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WHERE NOW | MARKET FRESH

Saturday market as well, as well as stands selling fresh waffles, crepes, sausages, and even oysters and champagne. The Platz’s playground will keep the kids happily entertained, and when it’s time for a break, the adjacent streets are filled with pleasant cafés.

CHAMISSOPLATZ Sat 8am–2pm www.oekomarkt-chamissoplatz.de Kreuzberg has a small but mighty ecomarket of its own, setting up every Saturday along the eastern edge of this pretty square in the Bergmannkiez neighborhood. Pay a visit and you’ll find all sorts of farmfresh produce, including the tastiest sun-ripened tomatoes this side of Italy, artisanal sheep and goat cheese, organic pure-fruit juices, homemade ceramics, free-range meat and sausages, and even traditional brushes made with wood and natural fibers. If shopping has stirred your appetite, you’ll find plenty to snack on at nearby Marheinekeplatz (www.meinemarkthalle.de). This gastronomy hotspot is a reconstructed replacement of a historic market hall (see box, below), crammed with food stands hawking everything from Spanish paella to Vietnamese noodles to Breton buckwheat galettes.

MARKTHALLE NEUN CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 VIA FLICKR USER RICHARD RICCIARDI; XXXXXXPHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE OR PRESS COMMAND + SHIFT THEN CLICK TO CHANGE ALL OTHER IMAGES: © ISTOCK.

Clockwise from above, left: Organic produce and bread at Kollwitzplatz; honey, juice, and fruit on Maybachufer; the food stands at Markthalle Neun. Inset: freshly grilled Bratwurst.

HALLOWED HALLS Of the 14 market halls dotted around Berlin at the turn of the 19th century, only two have survived: Kreuzberg’s Markthalle Neun (Eisenbahnstr. 42–43, www.markthalleneun.de) and Moabit’s Arminiusmarkthalle (Arminiusstr. 2-4, www.arminiusmarkthalle.com). Both date back to 1891 and have been restored and revived in recent years to become important epicenters for local food culture. The halls host a variety of gastronomy options and food vendors under one roof, from butchers, bakers, and cheesemongers to microbrewers and specialty vintners. Special events like wine festivals, street food parties, and even workshops are held regularly as well. Tasty highlights at Arminiusmarkthalle include Peruvian ceviche from Naninka and Alabama-style smoked ribs from Pignut BBQ. And at Markthalle Neun, don’t miss Sironi’s delicious sourdough bread and the chorizo burgers from the Kumpel & Keule butchery.

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WHERE | BERLIN BY CAR

Drive My Car Solveig Steinhardt went for a drive.

historic vehicles. If this has left you wanting more, head to the Classic Remise (Wiebestr. 36-37, www.remise.de) where you can admire Berlin’s best privately owned luxury vintage cars but also rent roaring jewels like an Austin London Taxi from 1968, a Jaguar E-Type Cabrio from 1965, a pink Cadillac from 1961, starting at €290 per day (www.classicdepot.de). If you are more into kitsch than automotive technology, a Trabi Safari may be right up your alley. The most common car in East Germany, with its thundering engine, thick smoke, and tin can feel, the Trabant was quickly abandoned after the Wall came down, but is now considered an affectionate nod to the bygone GDR era. You can drive a Trabi around Berlin as part of a caravan-style tour or rent your own (even a convertible one) from Trabi World (Zimmerstr. 97, 030-30201030, www.trabi-world.com) for as little as €75 for two hours. While the Trabi was the symbol of East Germany, no other car embodies the postwar economic recovery of West Germany better than the Volkswagen Beetle. With

its friendly appearance and high-quality technology, the Beetle may well have saved the war-damaged German automotive industry. Oldie Käfer Tours (Leipziger Platz 9, www.oldie-kaefer-tour-berlin.de) offers tours on the iconic Volkswagen Beetle as well as rentals of the historic car, while at Sixt you can rent the newest version of the VW Beetle to enjoy all the modern comforts (www.sixt.com).

erlin’s public transportation network is far-reaching and almost impeccable, but nothing beats the sense of freedom of cruising the city at your own pace, aboard a convertible Bentley, a Porsche, or even just a Trabant. With large boulevards, forest roads, lots of parking space, ample opportunities for day trips in the countryside, and whole stretches of Autobahn without speed limits (check out www.83metoo.de/autobahn-ohnetempolimit for a detailed map), Berlin is the ideal city for driving enthusiasts. The best way to take all this in is to rent the car that best fits your desires. At the Porsche Drive center (Franklinstraße 23, www.drive.porsche.com) you can rent the queen of all Porsches, the 911, starting at €139 for one hour (or only €99 if you settle for the 718 Cayman) or €799 for the whole weekend, or check out all the latest models of Germany’s greatest car. Lovers of all things retro should not miss the Cars! exhibition at the Deutsches Technikmuseum (Trebbiner Str. 9, www. sdtb.de) for a breathtaking collection of

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4 JULY 2018 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; KRAFTWERK BERLIN WWW.FASHIONTECH.BERLIN

FASHION. TECH. DIGITALISATION. INNOVATION. BUSINESS.

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WHERE NOW | CONCIERGE

Ask the

CONCIERGE

Nobody knows the city better than your expert concierges. Uwe Aselmann, concierge at Berlin Marriott Hotel, is here to help. www.lcdg.org How would you describe your perfect day in Berlin? Assuming the weather is good, I would cycle to Gottlob café in Schöneberg for breakfast and then continue on to luxury department store KaDeWe for some browsing. I’d end the afternoon with a coffee at Café am Neuen See in Tiergarten, followed by dinner at Katerschmaus at sunset. When you have guests, where do you take them? I show them the city highlights, such as the Reichstag, Museum Island, Alexanderplatz, and East Side Gallery, and conclude in the evening with a typical Berlin dinner at Freischwimmer restaurant. Insider Berlin tips? My secret tip is Restaurant KurpfalzWeinstuben in a backyard courtyard off Adenauer Platz. Describe Berlin in three words Exciting, lively, and sleepless. Where is the best place to relax? The best places to relax are backyard

courtyards, such as the Heckmann-Höfe, or the garden at Clärchens Ballhaus. Tips for a German specialty? A great selection can be found at creative and modern Schnitzelei (Charlottenburg). Can you recommend a place for romance? The teahouse in Charlottenburg Palace garden is for me the most romantic place in Berlin. If you sit there on the white large staircase, you have a beautiful view over the water lily-covered lake.

From top to bottom: KaDeWe, Hackesche Höfe, the Charlottenburg Palace, East Side Gallery.

Where can we experience Berlin’s nightlife? Just dive in! Either at the Kulturbrauerei in Prenzlauer Berg or RAW Gelände in Friedrichshain – both locations offer many opportunities to get to know Berlin’s nightlife. What’s the best way to discover Berlin? I am a big fan of guided bike or boat tours. Where is the best place to go for the perfect Berlin souvenir? At EAT BERLIN in Hackesche Höfe, you’ll find all kinds of things that are made in Berlin.

YOUR CONCIERGE IS HAPPY TO HELP!

Talk to your concierge if you need assistance with restaurant reservations, concert tickets, arranging spa services, booking transportation, or simply to ask for recommendations.

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The place to make sports car dreams come true: Welcome to Porsche Drive in Berlin. There are many moments in our life. But only a few of them are unforgettable. And there are many experiences. But only a few of them will stay forever with us. So don’t hesitate. But go for thrills and spills, adrenaline, and let your heart pound in your chest. For an experience that will stay forever with you: The first drive in a Porsche.

Porsche Drive

Porsche Drive Chauffeur Service

Porsche Drive On Demand

Get ready to start your engine and your unforgettable experience. We are happy to welcome you at the Porsche Centre in Berlin. You can choose your favourite Porsche and then start your personal Porsche experience at Porsche Drive Berlin, Franklinstr. 23, 10587 Berlin. You can also contact us via E-mail: Berlin@PorscheDrive.de and visit us at www.porsche.com/drive – we are looking forward to getting the engine started for you.

As stylish as driving a Porsche: being chauffeur driven in a Porsche. Each sports car dream is different. But they are all about dynamics and exclusivity. Why not combine a sports car with a chauffeur and be driven to your destination? For example, in a business class seat in a Porsche Panamera.

The only thing you have to do for a Porsche drive? Climb in. The best place to start your unique Porsche experience? Wherever you want to. Planning a family vacation or a weekend getaway? Why not have a Porsche of your dreams delivered to your home or any other desired location to make your trip even more special?

Fuel consumption (in l/100km) urban 12.2–10.1 · extra urban 6.7–6.3 · combined 8.7–7.7; CO₂ emissions combined 201–177g/km

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SHOPPING | THE GUIDE

The Store at Soho House.

Shopping Day Off An intersection rather than a square, Rosenthaler Platz is at the crossroads of four popular streets and the point where the old city wall once stood and where the Rosenthaler Gate guided admittance into the city. It’s not a particularly pretty spot – noisy traffic and run-down old buildings mixed with unappealing GDR block houses – but the surrounding streets are filled with creative and independent shops ideal for filling your suitcase before heading home, or simply soaking up Berlin’s style. An acronym for SOuth of TOrstraße, Soto (Torstr. 72) is one of the best menswear shops around town, spread out over two stores and catering to the stylish Berliner with popular labels like Band of Outsiders. Renowned German designer Hannes Roether (Torstr.

109) offers timeless casual outfits made with raw fabrics like linen, for men and women (Brunnenstr. 6). And whether you’re looking for fashion, design, or music, The Store (Torstr. 1) located on the ground floor of exclusive hotel/ private club Soho House is definitely a highlight – and is open to non-members too. If you are passionate about lamps, furniture, and other designer pieces from the 1950s, Wilde Heimat (Torstr. 172) is a must, as is Kaviar Gauche Bridal Budget Boutique (Torstr. 62) opposite – complemented by their flagship store around the corner (Linienstr. 44). Motivated by the success of their gorgeous cocktail dresses and gowns, they branched out into bridal wear and have earned hordes of fans with their luxurious and rebellious style. Along the leafy Weinbergsweg you’ll find

Schoene Schreibwaren (Weinbergsweg 21), a charming little shop with a stylish selection of utensils for writers and artists, or simply those who like to doodle in style. They have everything from bookbinding material to journals, photo albums, and wallets, sourced from small or independent manufacturers. On Brunnenstraße, what began as an experimental pop-up shop has turned into boutique concept store Studio 183 (Brunnenstr. 183), showcasing an evolving selection of objects by international and Berlin-based designers, jewelers, and artists. And for unique souvenirs of your trip, such as Berlin bear bookends, Reichstag cookie cutters, and cushions plastered with abstract city motifs, check out the urban-inspired works at s.wert (Brunnenstr. 191).

COURTESY OF SOHO HOUSE

Taking a break at café Sankt Oberholz, a popular meeting place for Berlin's startup scene, Annabelle Mallia jots down her favorite stores around this hip corner of Mitte.

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SHOPPING

THE

where GUIDELINES

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Every effort is made to provide accurate and updated information. However, information may be subject to last minute changes, so it is always advisable to call ahead.

INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS T: Telephone number S: S-Bahn, Above-ground train system U: U-Bahn, Underground train system MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 64-65. OPENING HOURS Opening hours may vary, so it’s best to call ahead. Shops are open Mon–Sat only, and Sunday shopping is only possible on certain Sundays of the year. Groceries can be bought on Sundays at major train stations (Hauptbahnhof, Friedrichstraße, at Ullrich at Zoologischer Garten, or Ostbahnhof ). Shopping malls are open 10am–8pm and smaller stores only until 6pm. TOURIST INFORMATION VisitBerlin is the official source of information on the city. Call T: 030.25002333 for specific Berlin information, or go to www.visitberlin.de for details on all information centers, events, and sights. Tourist Info Points: Brandenburg Gate – Pariser Platz, daily 9:30am–6pm (until 7pm in summer). Hauptbahnhof – Europaplatz 1, Level 0, daily 8am–9pm. TV Tower Alexanderplatz – Panoramastr. 1a, daily 10am–4pm.

DEPARTMENT STORES & MALLS Alexa Hardcore shoppers love this mall for its sheer size, with over 180 stores spread over five levels. Highstreet retailers are well represented, and a large food court obliges when hunger overwhelms your desire to shop. www.alexacentre.com. Grunerstr. 20. T: 030.269340121. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

BIKINI BERLIN BIKINI BERLIN combines shopping with a fun and relaxing experience. The historical building complex in Berlin's west end makes for interesting strolls, also offering beautiful views of the Berlin zoo and its animals, which can be admired both from indoors as well as from the rooftop terrace. But the main attraction is the curated selection of shops, which include individual pop-up boxes frequently showcasing new designers, popular brands, and many design stores. www.bikiniberlin.de. Budapester Str. 38-50. T: 030.55496455. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Designer Outlet Berlin Your favorite designer brands with discounts up to 70 percent, at just 30 minutes from the city center. Also features cafes and restaurants, a children’s play area, free parking and more that 100 international brands. Shuttle bus from center on Fri-Sat. Mon–Sat 10am–8pm. www.designeroutletberlin.com. Alter Spandauer Weg 1. T: 033234.9040. Take the regional train to Elstal. Off Map

Europa Center This shopping mall on the Ku’damm offers a range of goods from over 70 shops. Check out the

ingenious water clock designed by Bernard Gitton in 1982. www.europa-center-berlin.de. Tauentzienstr. 9–12. T: 030.26497940. U Kurfürstendamm, U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Galeria Kaufhof The former East German department store, renovated in 2006, showcases more than 600 exclusive brands and an exquisite gourmet section covering 35,000sq.m (377,000sq.ft) of space. www.galeria-kaufhof.de. Alexanderplatz 9. T: 030.247430. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Galeries Lafayette The Berlin branch of the exclusive Parisian department store is developed around an extraordinary glass cone. The three circular floors rise up around this centerpiece, packed with perfumes, clothing, and accessories. The food counter offers a wide range of French specialties and there’s a corner selling teas from the famed French tea house Mariage Frères. www.galerieslafayette.de. Friedrichstr. 76–78. T: 030.209480. U Französische Straße. E3

KaDeWe (Kaufhaus des Westens) The biggest and oldest department store in continental Europe sells only products of the highest quality. If you're short on time, the legendary gourmet food hall on the sixth floor is not to be missed. www.kadewe.de. Tauentzienstr. 21–24. T: 030.21210. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Mall of Berlin

for rebellious and cheeky boys and girls. www.be.edgy.de. Bleibtreustr. 27. T: 0176.61137540. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Boggi Milano Italian elegance for men. Specializes in highquality suits that are formal while also remaining comfortable, and also carries a sport casual collection. www.boggi.com. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

By Anne By Anne offers designer fashion from sought-after European labels such as cool Danish brand NÜ, Beate Heymann Street Couture, playful Spanish label Uno Piu Uno, and bags from By Lou Lou, together with other accessories to complement your new outfit. Unique art pieces are also on sale to help you express your individuality in the home or garden. www.byanne.de. Rosenthaler Str. 31. T: 030.28879436. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Cotélac The French just have that certain je ne sais quoi when it comes to style. Laid-back, breezy, comfortable, and nonetheless elegant, the Cotélac collections capture that quintessential French style in clothing and accessories for both women and men. Brand hallmarks are fine fabrics, subtle details and unique prints created with special dye and fabric techniques. Mulackstr. 6. T: 030 53604074. www.cotelac.fr. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Ellen Eisemann Feminine and chic dresses , skirts, tops made for the Audrey Hepburns of today. Simple, geometric

270 shops, 270 apartments, gyms, and pedestrian areas define the new Mall of Berlin on Leipziger Platz, a world of shopping opportunities a stone’s throw from the city’s main tourist attractions. www.mallofberlin.de.Leipziger Platz 12. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Potsdamer Platz Arkaden This large shopping center offers more than 120 shops over three floors, stocking everything from clothes to accessories and design objects. Its restaurants and bars, both inside and in surrounding streets, also make it a very popular meeting spot. www.potsdamer-platz-arkaden.de. Alte Potsdamer Str. 7. T: 030.2559270. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

FASHION Basler Founded in Berlin in 1936 and now sold around the globe, Basler stands for femininity and versatility, aiming to make women of all ages and sizes look and feel good. From everyday style to business casual to something elegant for a night out, you’ll find plenty to add to your wardrobe. Second store at Schloßstr. 28. www.basler-fashion.com. Kurfürstendamm 220. T: 030.88472949. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Beatrice von Tresckow Sumptuous, elegant, somewhat extravagant. Beatrice Von Tresckow women's clothes are lively and colorful, an eye-catching addition to any wardrobe. www.beatricevontresckow.com, Leibnizstr. 60. T: 030 308318. U Adenauer Platz. C4

Be Edgy With rule-breaking elements and a timeless soul, this Berlin-born fashion label makes perfectly cut leather jackets and a variety of accessories meant

Visit Juwelier Leicht at the Hotel Adlon (p. 26) and admire luxury watches such as the Autobahn model, winner of the Red Dot Design Award 2018, or a selection of fascinating watches by NOMOS Glashütte. www.wheretraveler.com 21

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SHOPPING cuts and eye-catching colors and prints combine a timeless style with a glamorous vintage look. www.elleneisemann.com. Monumentenstraße 33-34. 030 78898595. S Yorckstraße. D5

designer depot This boutique in Mitte offers selected designer fashion, shoes, and accessories for men and ladies at up to 50 percent off. There are more than 30 international labels such as Calvin Klein, Iceberg, Roberto Cavalli, and Valentino. www.designer-depot.net. Rochstr. 2. T: 030.28046700. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Marc Cain A worldwide premium brand for women’s fashion with its own production facility in Germany. Marc Cain effortlessly combines aesthetics and innovation in design and materials, making a declaration of love to women. www.marc-cain.com. Friedrichstr. 61. See website for more locations. T: 030.20077219. U Stadtmitte. E3

Marina Rinaldi Born inside the Max Mara fashion group in 1980, this label stocks a collection of garments and accessories for the curvier woman and represents a turning point in the history of women’s apparel. www.marinarinaldi.com. Kurfürstendamm 178 (check website for other locations). T: 030.88554046. U Adenauerplatz. B4

Max Mara One of the oldest and most prestigious Italian fashion houses, known for its quality craftsmanship and ready-to-wear clothing. www.maxmara.com.

Kurfürstendamm 178 (check website for other locations). T: 030.8852545. U Adenauerplatz. B4

Mientus One of the largest providers of exclusive fashion in Germany. Four levels housing collections from top international designers like Dolce & Gabbana, Moncler, and Gucci. www.mientus.com. Wilmersdorfer Str. 73. T: 030.3239077. U Wilmersdorfer Straße, S Charlottenburg. B4

Patrick Hellmann

brands from London, Paris, and New York. www. trueffelschweinberlin.com. Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 21. T: 030.70221225. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Strellson

This Swiss company creates fashion for men who are on their way up or, as they say, for young men with big plans. Concentrating on clarity, the Strellson philosophy is based on clear cuts and top quality for their suits and other urban wears, as well as transparent values and work attitudes. www.strellson.com. Mall of Berlin. Direct entrance from Voßstraße. T: 030.229088200. U Mohrenstraße. E3 The quiet Suarezstraße

Among the most successful luxury brands in the fashion world, Patrick Hellmann stands for timelessness, elegant designs, quality materials, in Charlottenburg and extravagant details. There UNIQLO is the place to go for are also clothes by Giorgio Originally a chain of roadside stores antiques. Armani, Christian Dior, and Dolce & in suburban Japan, this brand quickly Gabbana. www.patrick-hellmann.com. became an Asian sensation and has now Kurfürstendamm 190–192. T: 030.88487711. expanded to trendy urban hubs around the U Adenauerplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4 globe. Their Berlin flagship store has three floors

Rebecca Store With a unique boudoir atmosphere, this concept store is a harmonious medley of European and American designers, including Yigal Azrouel, Vera Wang, and Gas Bijoux. All items are personally selected by owner Rebecca Zehden on her many trips abroad. www.rebecca-berlin.de. Alte Schönhauser Str. 41. T: 030 34620780. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Trüffelschwein The Trüffelschwein man is never overdressed – he simply looks good, with a collection of small niche

of quality basics and fashion for women, men, and children. www.uniqlo.com. Tauentzienstr. 7. T: 030 29028260. U Wittenbergplatz. C4; Leipziger Platz 16. S+U Potsdamer Platz.E3; Rosenthaler Str. 42; S Hackescher Markt. F3

Wellensteyn Founded in Germany 60 years ago as a brand for workers, Wellensteyn is now a high-class label for quality technical jackets that are also stylish, as well as other items for the outdoor life. www.wellensteyn.com. Europa Center. Tauentzienstr. 9-, 12. T: 030.23927186. U Kurfürstendamm. C4. Grunerstr. 20. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3 T: 030.27583926. Friedrichstr. 58. T: 40744747. U Stadtmitte. E3

Wormland This men’s boutique carries the best German and international brands, catering to a demanding man and offering a variety of styles, from classy to casual, from business to sporty. Brands include Calvin Klein, Black Kaviar, Lee Jeans, and Hugo Boss. www.wormland.de. Mall of Berlin. Direct entrance from Voßstraße. T: 030.229088200. U Mohrenstraße. E3

SHOES & ACCESSORIES AIGNER The Munich label is one of Germany’s most important leather accessory brands, combining tradition and innovation with luxury classics. Choose between handbags, belts, and luxury travel luggage, as well as gift items such as corkscrews, keyrings and backgammon boxes. www.aignermunich.com. Kurfürstendamm 50. T: 030.88683638. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Fashion Week Berlin Fashion Week is upon us once again, with its many fashion trade shows and conferences all over town. While most of these are meant for trade professionals only, the #FashionTech Berlin conference on 4 July explores digitalization in the fashion business and is open to anyone who’s interested. It’s a great way to get a glimpse of the Fashion Week atmosphere. Kraftwerk, 1st floor. Köpenicker Str. 70. www.fashiontech.berlin

With their air-cushioned sole, lace-up style, and yellow stitching, the popular Doc Martens boots launched in the UK in 1960 was based on a prototype by German army doctor Klaus Märtens. Check out many designs and colors of the famous boots at Boots & Shoes, from the classic 1460 model, to shiny blue, or floral print. Ballerinas, booties, clothing, and accessories by many other brands round off the offering. www. boots-and-shoes.de. Bikini Berlin, Budapester Str. 38-50. T: 030.92031876. S + U Zoologischer Garten. C4 Dircksenstr. 49. T: 0800.2070700. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

PHOTO COURTESY OF #FASHIONTECH.

Boots & Shoes

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SHOPPING

l a v i t s e F

Fever

1. Codello, Mall Of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12. 2 & 3. Liu Jo, Mall Of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12. 4. Unützer, Giesebrechtstr. 10. 5. Marc Cain, Kurfürstendamm 69. 6. Sportalm, Mall Of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12. 7. GEOX, Kurfürstendamm 209. 8. Attilio Giusti Giambruni, Galeries Lafayette, Französische Str. 23. 9 & 10. Marc Cain, Kurfürstendamm 69. 24 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U LY 2018

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Studio Sale Showroom 06. - 07. July 2018 11:00 am - 06:00 pm Monumentenstr. 33 10829 Berlin Shops in Berlin Meyer & Nehls Bleibtreustr. 13 10623 Berlin Hirschmann Mode Güntzelstr. 43 14057 Berlin Maaßenstr. 12 10777 Berlin Tatem Oranienburger Str. 32 10117 Berlin Welfenallee 7 13465 Berlin Stargarder Str. 78 10437 Berlin Belushis Baseler Str. 1 12205 Berlin Leder Art Bölschestr. 50 1287 Berlin onlineshop: ellen-eisemann.shop to find a shop in your city - check it out: ellen-eisemann.com Fashion Week Berlin Showroom 02. - 05. July 2018 10:00 am - 06:00 pm Monumentenstr. 33 10829 Berlin to join us please contact: info@ellen-eisemann.com WB ELLEN EISEMANN.indd 1

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SHOPPING

SIZING GUIDE SHOES US

CLOTHES Euro

WOMEN 3 4 5 6 7 8

5 6 7 8 9 10

8 9 10 11 12 13

XS S M L

6 8 10 12 14 16

Dress by Marc Cain (Kurfürstendamm 69), shoes by Unützer (Giesebrechtstr. 10).

8 9 10 11 12 13

S M L

34 36 38 40 42 44

4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10-11 12-13 14-15

Unützer

This legwear shop caters to both men and women with all kinds of socks, stockings, tights, knee-highs, and anything that will keep your legs warm. They also have a good selection of sports accessories and knitwear, as well as delightful kids’ socks. www.falke.com. Kurfürstendamm 36. T: 030.88553565. U Uhlandstraße. B4; Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Str. 12. T: 030.20647995. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacturing are what sets Unützer apart from many other shoe brands. Founded 25 years ago, this shoe label stands for elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacture. The boots, pumps, and ballerinas are all made in a small town near Venice according to the century-old Italian tradition. www.unuetzer.com. Giesebrechtstr. 10. T: 030.88916710. U Uhlandstraße. C4

The New York-based designer Michael Kors is known for his ready-to-wear fashion and luxury accessories – bags, watches, jewelry, shoes, and other award-winning designs. www.michaelkors. com. Kurfürstendamm 219. T: 030.81825760. U Uhlandstr. C4; Rosenthaler Str. 37. T: 030.24088690. F2

New Era Flagship Store Looking for a new cap? This is the largest and fastest growing headwear producer in the world. There are more than 1000 styles over two floors, ranging from the classic baseball cap to modern designs, including their bestseller 59fifty, popular with the skater and hip hop crowd. www.neweracap.com. An der Spandauer Brücke 7. T: 030.27890578. Hackescher Markt. F2

Pikolinos Designed with traditional artisan craftsmanship and the latest in comfort footwear technology, this shoe brand offers classic options for everyday wear, inspired by its Spanish roots and the Mediterranean lifestyle. www.pikolinos.com. Kurfürstendamm 216. U Uhlandstraße. C4

JEWELRY & WATCHES Aris Diamond

34 36 38 40 42 44

44 46 48 50 52 54

CHILDREN 24 25.5 27 28 29 30.5

Falke Flagship Store

Michael Kors

2 4 6 8 10 12

MEN (CHEST) 41 42 43 45 46 47

CHILDREN 7 8 9 10 11 12

Euro

WOMEN 36 37 38 39 41 42

MEN 7 8 9 10 11 12

4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10 12 13

110cm 116-122 128-134 140-146 152-158 164-170

and a wide range of other prestigious watch brands, as well as exclusive jewelry creations, the Bucherer store provides customers with first-class service and a unique shopping experience. www.bucherer.com. Friedrichstr.176-179. T: 030.2041049. U Französische Straße E3; Kurfürstendamm 45. T: 030.8804030. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Juwelier Leicht im Hotel Adlon This jewelry shop has its own manufactory and also carries luxurious brands like Omega, Glashütte Original, and more. Check out Leicht’s marvelous creations, each uniquely manufactured with gold and precious stones. www.leicht-jewellery.com. Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2290212. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

The Ku'damm was West

Berlin's most important ROLEX Boutique Since 1906, ARIS has been shopping strip during One of the most famous brands specializing in diamond jewelry, the Cold War. in luxury, Rolex has been making delivering everything from wristwatches since 1905. First created pendants, necklaces, and earrings, in England, the company soon moved to to fabulous engagement rings. Got a Switzerland, and its perfect timepieces are special occasion coming up? Check up their recognized worldwide as the ultimate symbol of new shop in the Mall of Berlin for refined pieces. elegance and refinement. www.rolex.de. www.arisdiamond.com. www.wempe.com. www.mallofberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 12. Kurfürstendamm 184. U Mohrenstraße. E3 T: 030.55669010. Boutique Cartier U Uhlandstraße. E2 Founded in Paris in 1847, Cartier is one of the Schmelter Juwelen world’s most esteemed designers of luxury jewelry Pearls and diamonds define this jewelry store and watches, with a long history of sales to royalty near the Ku’damm. Have a look at the marvelous and celebrities. www.cartier.de. Kurfürstendamm collection of Schoeffel pearl colliers, many of which 188–189. T: 030.8867060. U Uhlandstraße, are made with exquisite Tahitian pearls. U Adenauerplatz. B4 www.schmelter-juwelen.de. Uhlandstr. 167-168. Bucherer T: 030.8815671. With a dedicated Rolex and Patek Philippe corner, U Uhlandstraße. B/C4

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BEAUTY & WELLNESS Babor

No.1 IN SHOPPING, LEISURE & E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N B E R L I N

Specializing in beauty driven by science, Babor creates skincare solutions for every woman’s unique needs. Top-sellers at the flagship store include vitamin-rich skin serums and deluxe foundations with a lifting effect. www.babor.de. Französische Str. 48. T: 030. 20622222. U Französische Straße. E3

MO - SA 10am - 9pm ALEXA AT ALEXANDERPLATZ OPEN ON SUNDAYS: FOOD COURT AND LEISURE AREA

Flaconi A large perfumerie carrying all the best perfume brands as well a myriads of products for the skin and hair as well as makeup. www.flaconi.de. Leipziger Str. 36. T: 030.20674990. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Frau Tonis Parfum The perfume boutique offers scents inspired by the city, like Pure Violet, originally composed for Marlene Dietrich. Take a scent test to find the fragrances that suit you best or ask customize your own bottle. www.frau-tonis-parfum.com. Zimmerstr. 13. T: 030.20215310. U Kochstraße. E4

180 SHOPS FASHION, ACCESSORIES, ELECTRONICS, BOOKS & MUCH MORE SHOPPING

Nivea Haus Nivea is Latin for snow white. At the flagship store of this German beauty powerhouse you can browse the entire product range, sign up for a consultation, or get a quick massage or facial. www.nivea.de/Haus. Unter den Linden 28. T: 030.20456160. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

A L E X AC E N T R E .CO M

Parfumsalon An exclusive perfume boutique that has been offering fragrances for more than five decades. The shop's selection include rarities and special aromas, all hand-picked by owner and perfume expert Mario Worms. www.parfumsalon.de. Uhlandstr. 173-174. T: 030.8827306. E3

Selected shops for the savvy shopper

HOME DÉCOR Home on Earth Located in the historical Hackesche Höfe, this store offers home décor items made from natural materials combined with Scandinavian design. Founded by a German-Danish pair in Barcelona, this is the first store to hit Germany. www.homeonearth.com. Hackesche Höfe/Hof V, Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. T: 030 2834354. S Hackescher Markt F2

Kiran Kelim & Teppich Kunst Kiran has been importing rugs for more than 40 years, and the curated selection includes vintage and contemporary kilims, some self-designed pieces, as well the gorgeous Rug Star design rugs. www.kelim.de. Stilwerk, 3rd floor. Kantstr. 17. S Savignyplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

Sennheiser This German brand stands for innovation in the world of audio electronics, from microphones and speakers to headsets and more. The cuttingedge wireless headphones in particular are prized by pro musicians, DJs, music fans, and gamers alike. Test out all the latest models at the Charlottenburg store. www.sennheiser.com. Tauentzienstr. 17. T: 030.23630162. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

IMAGE © THINKSTOCK

ELECTRONICS

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SHOPPING MAPS

ADVERTORIALS

AUDIO EXPERIENCE

Visit us Monday to Saturday 10 am to 8 pm

Sennheiser Store Berlin

Tauentzienstr. 17 - 10789 Berlin S-Bahn/U-Bahn Zoologischer Garten U-Bahn Wittenbergplatz

SHOP STOP

TR.

KURFÜRSTENDAMM

CAR ME RS

Zoologischer Garten

SHOP STOP

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SCHLÜTERSTR.

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ANSBACHER STR.

Bikini Berlin, Budapester Str. 38-50. T: 030 92031876 www.boots-and-shoes.de S+U Zoologischer Garten

LEIBNIZSTR.

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OLM

All labels stand for history, quality, and individual personality. At boots & shoes you will find Dr. Martens, Converse, Hunter and Blundstone shoes in many designs and colors, matching your style.

ZOO

FASANENSTR.

BOOTS & SHOES

Zoologischer Garten

Aquarium HAR BIKINI BERLIN Boots & Shoes Berlin DEN freshnails/juicynails BER MYKITA GST R. r STR. nte BUDAPESTER -Ce yn SSE STRA KANT tz TRASSE la opa ste KANTS Eur ellenn Savignyp W tur G-S latz Sa tar LO Savignyp TAU UNIQ ENT l a u ZIEN Kurfürstendamm Ap ig s e BO ple S TRA Kars D SS Shoe City Sto er SSE tadt eis ki re KP nh ovs ton WittenbergMM K M äthe SenSwarenetue Be NDA E platz T r l W B S RSTR. lin NIEBUH Pylo B to ohlf GO FÜR ahrt nes ma LEtore EN e KUR M To S ISS eW e Uhlandstraße ic FALKE h D TOM ae Talbot Runhof BR MmE Ka DeW MY l Kor P EE i Ka AIGNER S s HIL W ikoli MOMMSENSTR. teiff FIG LACempenos Po ER MOMMSENSTR. van O rsc Bu S T Laa TE Ren he D che umi Yves Saint Laurent BCBG c k re e éL MA eza sign r Louis Vuitton XA rd MM ZR Par Augsburger Str. Hermès NDA IA fum RSTE Ro Ch salo Unützer Bo sen RFÜ op Bally U Val n Be tte K GI ard tha ent ga r ES li l SØR n in E Ven EB Ma SCA RE eta o u D Bu CH lga rice LA BOGGI Milano TS acr ri Do Jens Richard TR. ER STR. oix l ce Jil NBURG & Sa LIETZE Ga Gucci nd Bu bb AMM er rbe D a N E n rry a Cartier | Campbell | Chanel ÜRST Ma KURF xM Ermenegildo Zegna Adenauer- Tom Mulberry ara /M bo MCM | PRADA platz ari lin na i Rin ald ROLEX Boutique i N sti iessi lwe ng rk B Be erlin rlin

SHOP STOP

MICHAEL KORS

PARFUMSALON

PIKOLINOS

Michael Kors is a world-renowned designer of luxury accessories and ready-to-wear, offering a lifestyle for the consummate jet setter that is as sophisticated as it is indulgent and as glamorous as it is modern. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. Kurfürstendamm 219. T: 030 81825760 www.michaelkors.com

This exclusive perfume boutique has been offering extraordinary fragrances since the 1960s. Mario Worms is an expert in perfume counseling, offering advice on the perfect scent for every client, and the shop's selection includes rare bottles and unusual aromas. Uhlandstr. 173-174. T: 030 8827306 www.parfumsalon.de

Visit a Pikolinos store and take in the Mediterranean breeze! Pikolinos shoes are made with high-quality leather, delivering a unique experience that combines comfort, a natural feeling, and accessibility. Browse the shelves for stylish, unique footwear made using the highest quality standards. Kurfürstendamm 216. U Uhlandstraße www.pikolinos.com

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ADVERTORIAL

MICHAEL Michael Kors Graffiti Capsule Collection

ichael Kors is pleased to announce an upcoming capsule collection featuring an original logo graffiti print. The capsule comprises 8 pieces in total, spanning ready-to-wear, accessories and footwear. Created in-house, the logo graffiti was inspired by the bold, stylized tagging that dominated New York City in the early ‘80s. Rendered in graphic black and white, it is a celebration of both street art and the brand’s home city, as well as a nod to today’s streetinfluenced fashion. “I started my company in 1981, at a time when uptown and downtown were really colliding,” says Michael Kors. “Uptown girls partied downtown at the Mudd Club and Club 57. Artists like Fab 5 Freddy and Jean-Michel Basquiat showed their work at PS 1, and yet you’d still be just as likely to find their signatures on the side of a building in the LES or your subway car. Today, that mix of high/low is everything.” The graffiti capsule collection by MICHAEL Michael Kors will be available in Michael Kors stores worldwide, from July 2018.

Kurfürstendamm 219, T: 030 81825760 www.michaelkors.com

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SHOPPING MAPS

MALL OF BERLIN

COS

HALLHUBER

MARC CAIN

Reno

SWAROVSKI

Deichmann

Hollister

Marc O’Polo

Replay

Taschenparadies THOMAS SABO

DESIGUAL

HUGO BOSS

MASSIMO DUTTI

Rich & Royal

Dogo Shoes

Hunkemöller

Mavi

Runners Point

Tom Tailor

Einblick Optik

INTIMISSIMI

MAX & CO.

S & D sons and

TOMMY HILFIGER

Engelsrufer & Co.

Jack & Jones

Mephisto

daughters

TOMMY JEANS

Esprit

JD Sports

Eterna Fashion & Accessories

FASHION CLUB

C&A

MANKIND

Calvin Klein Jeans

Airfield

CALZEDONIA

ARIS Art of

Casano

Diamond

Change

Kingz

MAKEUP

LACOSTE

Foot Locker

LIEBESKIND

French Connection Frisco Jeans

Lief!

TWIN-SET

Schiesser

UN1DEUX2TROIS3

Schuh Bode

Undiz

SHOE CITY

Oakley

Levi’s

Fossil

Triumph

Sarar

Nike NYX PROFESSIONAL

Konplott

Fast Forward

Trigema

Salamander

NAVYBOOT

KARL LAGERFELD

FALKE

7 FOR ALL

Muji

Vans

Sidestep

Olymp

VERO MODA

Sizeer

Palmers

WE-Fashion

PANDORA

SNIPES

Wigglesteps

ARMANI EXCHANGE

CHRIST

G-Star Raw

Liu Jo

Passionata

Sportalm Kitzbühel

WORMLAND

Backlash

CINQUE

GANT

LLOYD

Peak Performance

SPORTSCHECK

ZARA

Bershka

Claire’s

GINA TRICOT

L’Occitane

Peek &

Street Shoes

ZERO

BIJOU BRIGITTE

Clarks Ecco

GUESS

Look 54

Cloppenburg

STRELLSON

BREE

Codello

H&M

MANGO

Pepe Jeans

Sunglass Hut

...and the biggest Foodhall.

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Sony Center CineStar/IMAX LEIPZIGER Potsdamer Platz PLATZ DAMER STRASSE

POTS

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Potsdamer Platz

CinemaxX

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LMST

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Mohrenstr.

Dalí Museum

BUNDESRAT

Potsdamer Platz

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Blue Man Group Theater

IMAGE © THINKSTOCK

Selected shops for the Savvy Shopper ®

Berlin

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SHOPPING

LUXURY BRANDS CHOPARD

AIGNER www.aignermunich.com. Kurfürstendamm 50. T: 030.88683668. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BALLY

www.chopard.com Kurfürstendamm 54. T: 030 70096980. U Uhlandstraße. B4

ESCADA

www.bally.com. Kurfürstendamm 52. T: 030.88707688. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BOGGI MILANO www.boggi.it. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BOSS www.hugoboss.com. Friedrichstr. 165. T: 030.20613890. U Französische Straße. E3

BUCHERER www.bucherer.com. Friedrichstr. 45. T: 030.2041049. U Kochstraße. E4

www.escada.com. Kurfürstendamm 195. T: 030.88923815. U Uhlandstraße. B4

MAURICE LACROIX www.mauricelacroix.de. Friedrichstr. 166. T: 030.33024852. U Französische Straße. E3

MCM www.mcmworldwide.com. Rosenthaler Str. 38. T: 030.28493793. S Hackescher Markt. F2

ROLEX

BULGARI

www.rolex.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.55669010. U Adenauerplatz. B4

www.bulgari.com. Kurfürstendamm 190-192. T: 030.8857920. U Uhlandstraße. B4

WEMPE

EMPORIO ARMANI www.armani.com. Friedrichstr. 169-170. T: 030 20615660. U Stadtmitte. E3

www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.8826878. U Adenauerplatz. B4

shopping arkaden

A PLACE FOR SHOPPING © ISTOCK.

ARKADEN SHOPS open from Mon—Sat, 10am to 9pm. POTSDAMERPLATZ.DE

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SHOPPING MAPS SHOP STOP

ADVERTORIALS

HACKESCHER MARKT AND MITTE Rosenthaler Platz

GORM ANNS T

LINIENSTRASSE

TRAS

SE Kaviar Gauche

No 74

Rosa-Luxemburg Platz

Lala Berlin Hoho Berlin MULA CKSTR VOLK ASSE Cotélac ER L STE ANG Sto INS re TRA SSE Onitsuka REBECCA Skunkfunk Freitag Weinmeisterstr. 11 Ma vi

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Hackesche Höfe/Hof V, Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. www.homeonearth.com

EH GROSS

Barcelona-founded Home on Earth offers products combining sustainability and Nordic design, each produced without wasting any resources. Using almost exclusively natural materials such as bamboo, wool, coconut, mango and hemp. The store opened its first branch in Germany in December 2015.

TORS

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ROS Wolfen Germany Boutique ASSE STSTR AUGU Greta & Luis Ka tje sC afé GIPSS Gr TRAS SE ün Be Lieb -Oh SOP n S es r HIE k h i n e NST RAS rman d SE

HOME ON EARTH

Modomoto Atelier Einhundert

ALT E

TORSTRASSE

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Trüffelschwein

MÜ Scotch & Soda NZ STR Ad ASS i da As Dr IK We Anine Bing E s ka yk KS ek Bu ni or d a designer depot n y UN ffaloa Hackesche Höfe IQ & Shoes LO Boots Volution Sports Mykita KSENSTRASSE Riccardo Cartillone DIRC MO Frosch & Königin NB IJO New Era Flagship Store UP L. SE Hackescher Markt TRAS S H C RO Onepiece Concept Store Oakley Michael Kors MCM

Promobo MÜHLE Store Berlin Home on earth Trippen

SHOP STOP

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UHLANDSTR.

Uhlandstraße Papeterie Caran D‘ache Catherine Nail Salon

A MM

Marooush LIETZENBURG

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Goldschmiede Bodo Dilg

Berlingold

Schuh Konzept Di‘Bel Be Edgy

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SYBELSTR. Unützer TS TR Schuhboutique .

stilwerk Berlin Kiran Kelim & Teppich Kunst

FASANEN

BLEIBTREUSTR.

WIELANDSTR.

LEIBNIZSTR.

Talbot Runhof

MOMMSENSTR.

0039 Italy

NST

Belle Rebelle

LMA

Planet Berlin Beatrice von Tresckow

FiNNs Mode

Lalic GOBI

Niessing Berlin

STR. Rahaus Living Margulies Jeannette Junior ROOKS & ROCKS

GRO

Tatem

NIEBUHRSTR. Meyer & Nehls

Zoologisch er Garten

NST

HIGHLIGHT

Savignyplatz

KANT

LMA

Dircksenstr. 49. T: 030 28045275 www.boots-and-shoes.de S Hackescher Markt

GRO

Cimp Schmuckdesign Paper & Tea Buffalo KANTSTRASSE SavignySchuhtick platz

Zeppelin Mode Goldsteg

GOETHESTR.

All labels stand for history, quality, and individual personality. At boots & shoes you will find Dr. Martens, Converse, Hunter and Blundstone shoes in many designs and colors, matching your style.

BOOTS & SHOES

SCHLÜTERSTR.

SAVIGNYPLATZ/CITY WEST

ER STR.

HACKESCHE HÖFE

An intricate series of interconnected courtyards provides an example of early-19thcentury German Secessionist style. The first courtyard is entirely decorated with glazed blue-and-white tiles in geometric designs, while the apartment buildings and narrow, maze-like alleys lined with cafés, shops, and theaters give the Höfe an atmosphere both familiar and fascinating.

Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. S Hackescher Markt

The C/O Berlin photography gallery (Hardenbergstraße 22-24, www.co-berlin.org)

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ADVERTORIALS

SHOP STOP

FRIEDRICHSTRASSE

YSTR

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JOH AN NIS STR .

Friedrichstadt-Palast

TUCH

CKST

AllSaints Superdry

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Annette Görtz Store Berlin

Französische Straße

R. FR IE DR IC H ST

FR AN ZÖ SI SC HE

GALERIES LAFAYETTE /Q207

COS Massimo Dutti Wempe Montblanc BABOR

BOSS Maurice Lacroix

TA UB EN ST RA SS

Gucci Galeries Lafayette

Quartier 206 Umasan

Marina Rinaldi Thomas Sabo MaxMara

JÄG ERS TRA SSE

Gendarmenmarkt

The Q.

Stefanel

MO HR EN ST R. MEISSEN im Hilton Stadtmitte/U2 Gudrun Sjödén

Comptoir des Cotonniers

TA UB EN ST R. Hausvogteiplatz

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Stadtmitte/U6

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Flaconi

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Checkpoint Charlie Frau Tonis Parfum

The famous Parisian department store brings French charm and style to Berlin with five floors of fashion, accessories, beauty products and delicacies. Galeries Lafayette is located in the Quartier 207 where you can also shop at Gucci, Opera‘s, Le Nails, Sathea, Cashmere House, Manon Chocolaterie, La Librairie and Galeries Lafayette Outlet.

Friedrichstr. 76–78. T: 030 209480. galerieslafayette.de SHOP STOP

SS E

LEIP ZIGE R STRA SSE

CH AR LO TT EN

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Marc Cain

LE IP ZI GE R ST RA

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MEISSEN KPM Berlin LACOSTE

FR IE DR IC H ST

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UN TE R DE N LI ND

Douglas

CH AR LO TT EN

KRIGLER @ Hotel Adlon

TS ST R.

M IT TE LS TR AS

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Evelin Brandt Crines Design Mephisto

Beauty meets science at this skincare institute. Owner and cosmetics expert Christiane Lingner offers high-level treatments such as deluxe facials, skin analyses, purifying sessions, manicures, pedicures, as well as intensive and strengthening treatments for the gentlemen. Head to the flagship store for vitamin-rich serums and foundations with a lifting effect.

Französische Str. 48. T: 030 20622222 www.babor-berlin.de

DO RO TH EE NS TR

Rituals

DO RO TH EE NS

BerlinFriedrichstraße

MA RK GR AF EN ST

BABOR INSTITUT GE SC HW IS TE

SP RE E AM WE ID EN DA MM

PLAN

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Lifesmyle

FRAU TONIS PARFUM This perfume manufactory has been described as Berlin’s most unique perfumery. Try classics such as Linde Berlin, or Pure Violet, Marlene Dietrich’s favorite fragrance. For something more personal, join other scent aficionados from all over the world and create your own, private perfume. Zimmerstr. 13 (Checkpoint Charlie). T: 030 20215310 www.frau-tonis-parfum.com www.wheretraveler.com 33

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SIGHTSEEING | THE GUIDE

Clockwise from top right: Glienicker Brücke; Sanssouci; The Dutch Quarter; Schloß Cecilienhof; Sanssouci.

Five Reasons To Spend A Day In Potsdam Cold War relics, great food, and international flair. Potsdam has it all, says Solveig Steinhardt.

It’s the Versailles of Germany. Used as a summer retreat for generations of Hohenzollerns, Potsdam’s Sanssouci complex is a fairytale-like ensemble of architectural and landscape gems begun by Frederick the Great in 1745 so he could have a place where he could forget all his worries and spend time with his dogs. Frederick’s successors added buildings and extravagant elements to the park until the late 1800s, spanning all of the

most important art trends from various parts of Europe. Sanssouci is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, together with Potsdam’s other palace complex, Cecilienhof. Built in the early 1900s in English Tudor manor house style, Cecilienhof is famous for having hosted the Potsdam Conference in 1945, at which Stalin, Churchill, and Truman made decisions on the fate of Nazi Germany.

Experience Holland in Germany. Even before Frederick the Great started building his palaces, his father Frederick William I had chosen Potsdam as the site of his garrison town. He employed entire families of Dutch construction workers, and to make them feel at home, he ordered the construction of 130 red-brick Dutch-style houses where they could live with their families. This may be the closest you’ll get to visiting Amsterdam

without actually going there. The houses look so authentic that an episode of the popular series Homeland, set in Amsterdam, was actually shot here.

Walk along the "Bridge of Spies." The Glienicker Bridge, connecting Wannsee to Potsdam, had an important role in the Cold War. It was used by the Allies as a link between West Berlin and the military liaison mission in Potsdam, but it became famous for the the exchange of captured spies. Today, it makes for tranquil walks immersed in nature.

Savor authentic German beer. Resto-brewpub Meierei Brauhaus (www.meierei.postdam.de) is set in an old castle-like structure from the late 1700s and serves delicious Wurst and a rotating menu of beers.

It’s an entirely different city – just a short train ride away. Potsdam is everything Berlin is not. It’s old, it’s regal, and has that vacationy small-town feel. And being just 25 kilometers southwest of central Berlin, it’s perfect for a day trip. Just hop on the S-Bahn or regional train and get off at Postdam Sanssouci to start your visit.

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MAJOR SIGHTS The “Alex” TV Tower The 368m- (1027ft)-high TV tower of Alexanderplatz can be seen from almost any point in the city and has been iconic of Berlin ever since it was built by the GDR in 1969. The giant steel-clad sphere atop houses a revolving restaurant and café as well as a viewing platform. The elevator ride lasts 40 seconds. Arrive early to avoid lines. Daily 9am–midnight (Nov–Feb from 10am). €13/8.50. www.tv-turm.de. Panoramastr. 1a. T: 030.24757537. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Berliner Dom

building now hosts concerts and intercultural events. Open daily 10am–7pm. € prices vary. www.hkw.de. John-Foster-Dulles-Allee 10. T: 030.397870. U Bundestag. D3

Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche This church’s bombed-out bell tower has been an anti-war memorial and a symbol of West Berlin ever since its ruins were restored to their present state in 1957. The old church’s ruins now host an exhibition of before and after photos documenting its former splendor and showing the Ku’damm before the bombs. Look up to admire what is left of the old mosaic. Open daily from 9am to 6pm. www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. Breitscheidplatz. T: 030.2185023. U Zoologischer Garten, Kurfürstendamm. C4

The city’s neo-Renaissance cathedral was begun in the late 1700s, finished in 1905, and renovated in simplified form after WWII damage. Walk up New Synagogue 267 steps for glorious views of the city from the Before the war, this Moorish-Byzantine-style dome, or stay on the ground floor to gaze at synagogue was Berlin’s largest Jewish place of elaborate sarcophagi containing the royal remains worship. The synagogue was seriously damaged of Hohenzollern family members. Thanks to during the infamous Kristallnacht pogroms the church’s perfect acoustics and a in 1938, while Allied bombs gave it the 7200-pipe organ, the Dom is also an coup de grace in 1943. The exotic important concert venue. gold dome is today the icon of Mon–Sat 9am–8pm, Sun 9am–8pm Berlin’s Jewish rebirth, and the (winter until 7pm). €7/5. partially reconstructed building In 1995, artist Christo www.berlinerdom.de. now houses a Jewish center and wrapped up the Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269119. a museum. www.cjudaicum.de. Reichstag in 100,000 S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3 Oranienburgerstr. 28-30. sq.m. of polypropylene T: 030.88028300. fabric. Brandenburg Gate S Oranienburgerstraße, MUST SEE The definitive Berlin icon, Hackescher Markt. E2 Carl Gotthard Langhans’ Neoclassical triumphal arch has witnessed the city’s best and worst moments, from the military parades of the Third Reich to the Wall being raised and torn down. Formerly behind GDR borders, today the gate acts mainly as the backdrop for festivals, New Year’s Eve parties, and tourist snapshots. U Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3

Charlottenburg Palace The summer home of Sophie Charlotte, wife of King Friedrich I of Prussia, reflects the grandeur of the Hohenzollern family. Begun in 1695, the luxury Baroque complex consists of a main building with a central cupola and two side wings, added in later years, that enclose a courtyard. The picturesque park surrounding the castle includes a formal French-style garden, English garden with pond and statues, belvedere, and mausoleum. The castle hosts temporary art and history exhibitions. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm). €12/8. www.spsg.de. Spandauer Damm 20-24. T: 030.9694200. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Hackesche Höfe This series interconnected courtyards is a great example of early-19th-century German Secessionist style. The first courtyard is entirely decorated with glazed blue-and-white tiles in geometric designs, while the apartment buildings and narrow, maze-like alleys lined with cafés, shops, and theaters give the Höfe an atmosphere both familiar and fascinating. Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. S Hackescher Markt. E2/F2

Haus der Kulturen der Welt Dubbed the “pregnant oyster” by locals because of its curvy shape, the Haus der Kulturen der Welt was built as a congress hall in 1956. The building quickly became a symbol of western freedom and creativity, in contrast to East German architectural projects of the time. Computer-guided chime concerts ring daily at noon and 6pm and the

Flughafen Tempelhof Guided Tours

The Tempelhof Airport Building is a testimony to world history of the 20th century.

Infos and tickets: www.thf-berlin.de/tour

Nikolaiviertel and Knoblauchhaus The Nikolaiviertel is where Berlin was born, and the area still retains its ancient character, although most of the buildings in the narrow medieval alleys are replicas of destroyed originals that dated back to the 1200s. The late-Gothic Nikolaikirche, Berlin’s oldest surviving building, is now a museum. Other points of interest include the Ephraim Palais Museum and the Biedermeierstyle Knoblauchhaus, a 19th-century middleclass townhouse that escaped WWII damage. Knoblauch Haus: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. www.knoblauchhaus.de. Poststr S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Potsdamer Platz Before the war, Potsdamer Platz was the city’s beating heart, with department stores, banks, internationally known theaters, dance halls, and cafés. WWII bombs obliterated 80 percent of the square, which was left in limbo for a few years and then enclosed in a no-man’s-land between the Wall and barbed wire fences. The square came back to life in the 1990s as a modern reinterpretation of its original self. Divided in three slices, it includes the Sony building with its central plaza; Daimler City, home to a large shopping mall; and the Manhattan-style Beisheim Center building. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Entrance

FREE

Come to sEe berlin´s only theme park

Reichstag and Foster’s Glass Cupola MUST SEE In the last 100 years, the massive neo-Renaissance building, now the seat of German Parliament, has been bombed, set on fire, wrapped by artist Christo, and renovated by Lord Norman Foster. Climb the glass cupola for a 360-degree view of the city, then gaze down at parliament in session. The plenary hall can be visited only on guided tours. Cupola: Daily 8am–midnight by appointment only. Free. Register on website; it is recommended to do so at least three days prior to your visit. Audio tours

Entertainment for young & old Karls Erlebnis-Dorf · Zur Döberitzer Heide 1 14641 ELSTAL near Berlin open daily from 8 AM to 8 PM · www.karls.de

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SIGHTSEEING

BERLIN‘S MOST BEAUTIFUL BOATS

BOAT RENTALS

No boating license needed for vessels of up to 12 passengers or with skipper for up to 19 passengers BBQ, beverages, picnic boxes Make your booking: spreeboote.de

DOWN BY T Enjoy from our terrace a fantastic view of the Spree River! You will see all: East Side Gallery, Mercedes Benz Arena, Oberbaum Bridge and the passing ships. We serve a tasty breakfast every morning from 10, followed by our famous coffee specials and delicious German and Austrian dishes in the evening. Check out our website for the latest dinner specials and follow us on facebook! May-Ayim-Ufer 9 · 10997 Berlin www.riogrande-berlin.de Reservation 030-61 07 49 81 Open daily from 10:00 RiograndeBerlin

Nautical fans, rejoice! Though not on the coast, Berlin is undoubtedly a city on the water. It is said to have five times as many bridges as Venice and over 180km of navigable waterways, counting numerous lakes, rivers, and canals that eventually flow into the Baltic and North Seas. Historically serving as shipping channels and borders in a divided city, Berlin’s waterways have since been transformed into a hub for sightseers, and the best way to experience them is, of course, aboard a boat. JUST CRUISIN' A river cruise is a great way to sit back and discover the city's historical and cultural riches. Boat tour companies Reederei Riedel (www.reedereiriedel.de), Reederei Bruno Winkler (www. reedereiwinkler.de), and Exclusiv Yachtcharter Berlin (www.exclusivyachtcharter.de) all offer similar routes as well as food and

beverages. Hop on board for a one-hour tour of the city center along the Spree River, cutting right through the modern government district and the architectural treasures of Museum Island. The "7 Lakes" tour with Stern und Kreis (www.sternundkreis. de) takes you along the chain of lakes between Berlin and Potsdam, alternating between stunning

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PHOTOS COURTESY OF YACHTCHARTER, VAN LOON, STERN UND KREIS, STAND UP CLUB.

Y THE WATER EXPERIENCE BERLIN FROM THE WATER

Am Speicher 7, 10245 Berlin +49 30 246 47 99 60  www.schiffskontor.com  

Far left and above: Stern und Kreis cruises; Inset, above: Stand Up Club; This photo: The Van Loon restaurant ship. Inset, left: where-mag-57x124 1 Exclusiv Yachtcharter.

nature and historical monuments such as Prussian castles and the Glienicker bridge, where Russian and American spies were exchanged during the Cold War. Alternatively, you can catch the F10 ferry across the lake

to Kladow, requiring no more than a valid BVG transport ticket for boarding. If you are more the independent type, boat rental companies such as Schiffskontor (www.schiffkontor. de) or Spreeboote (www.spreeboote. de) offer many different boats for you to freely navigate the Berlin waterways. DINING AFLOAT No need to dock onto dry land when the appetite builds. Restaurant ship Alte Liebe (www. alte-liebe-berlin.de), located on the Havel River and

surrounded by the Grunewald forest is a legendary spot for West Berliners on a first date, while Van Loon (www. vanloon.de) is a popular docked ship serving great food in Kreuzberg. Capt'n Schillow (www.capt-schillow. de), a quaint boat at the western edge of the Tiergarten, specializes in German fish spcialties. Book in advance to take a cruise through the surrounding canals, or head to the idyllic beer garden Hafenküche (www. hafenkueche.de) for a pleasant meal by the water.

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Idyllic pleasure on the Landwehrkanal

Enjoy a delicious meal on a historic boat. Our restaurant is an oasis of peace amid the bustling city life, offering international and ﬁsh-based dishes daily from 11am. With a romantic ﬂair and a relaxing atmosphere, this is a secret getaway for the hot summer days. Sit back and order a cold drink while you wave at other boats passing by. Just a short walk from the Tiergarten S-Bahn station. Straße des 17. Juni 113 · 10623 Berlin (at Charlottenburg Gate) english menue on www.capt-schillow.de Tel + 49 (0) 30 31 50 50 15 Find us on google maps

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SIGHTSEEING available. www.bundestag.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030.22732152. U Bundestag. D3/E3

Shall We Play? Berlin kids are lucky kids: The city invests ample money and creativity into making its playgrounds spectacular, and each of the 2000+ play areas has its own personality and theme. Here are our favorite five:

DRAGON PARK (FRIEDRICHSHAIN) This small playground hidden between two buildings at Schreinerstr. 48 features a green dragon you can walk into and slide down, plus climbing facilities galore.

THE RUBBER PLAYGROUND (SCHÖNEBERG) Kids love jumping around, and this adventurous playground on Winterfeldtplatz is made entirely of bouncy rubber sheets.

THE ARKONAPLATZ PLAY AREA (PRENZLAUER BERG) Tunnel slides, cableways, climbing towers, and jumping mattresses are just some of the attractions you will find at this 1600 sq.m (17,222sq.ft) play park.

THE SNOW WHITE PLAYGROUND (CHARLOTTENBURG, MOMMSENSTRASSE) There’s the prince’s castle with real rooms and lots of ladders and slides, the dwarves’ house, and the mine with a real water pump so kids can splash around on hot days.

THE SHIP PARK (KREUZBERG) Little buccaneers will enjoy the gigantic pirate ship inside the Görlitzer Park playground.

Topographie des Terrors

HISTORIC SITES Asisi’s Wall Panorama Yadegar Asisi created a panorama of divided Berlin, presenting everyday life against the backdrop of the Wall on an imaginary day in the 1980s. The artist's aim was to show how the population came to terms with the situation, and the result gives onlookers a glimpse of East German life. Daily 10am–6pm. €10/4. www.asisi.de. Friedrichstr. 205. T: 0341.3555340. Kochstraße. E3/E4

Berlin Wall Documentation Center

Allee, then Tram M5 to Freienwalder Str., then 10-minute walk. Off Map MUST SEE On the site of the former headquarters of the SS and the Third Reich’s most important offices, this permanent exhibition recounts the tragic history of Nazi forced labor, focusing on the central institutions of the SS and Third Reich police and the crimes they committed throughout Europe. A segment of the Wall runs along the grounds. Daily 10am–8pm. Free. www.topographie.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 8. T: 030.2545090. U Kochstraße. E4

To see what the Berlin Wall really looked like, visit the last remaining untouched stretch at Bernauer Straße.

MUST SEE Walk along one of the few surviving stretches of the Berlin Wall in an area of the city where its impact was particularly dramatic, then delve into its storied history at the documentation center. Documents and original radio broadcasts from both East and West chronicle one of Germany’s saddest historical periods. Open-air exhibition: 8am-10pm daily; documentation center: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. Free. www.berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de. Bernauer Str. 111. Bernauer Straße. E2

Checkpoint Charlie During the Cold War, Checkpoint Charlie was the main gateway between East and West. Shortly after the Wall went up, US and Soviet tanks faced each other on this spot. Today, the crossing point acts primarily as a backdrop for tourist photographs. U Kochstraße, U Stadtmitte. E3/E4

East Side Gallery While West Berliners loved to express their creativity by drawing graffiti and painting on the Wall, East Berliners were never allowed to use the dividing structure as a canvas. To make up for all the artless years, artists from 21 countries were called upon in 1990 to decorate one mile of the Wall's eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery. Mühlenstraße. S+U Warschauer Straße, S Ostbahnhof. G4

Holocaust Memorial MUST SEE Berlin’s tribute to the victims of the Holocaust is as big as a soccer field and consists of 2711 tombstone-like slabs of equal size and varying heights, placed on uneven ground to convey a sense of claustrophobia and disorientation. The underground information center provides a timeline of Jewish persecution. Accessible 24 hours a day. Free. www.holocaust-mahnmal.de. Cora-Berliner Straße. T: 030.2639430. U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Stasi Prison Between 1945 and 1989, more than 20,000 people suspected of opposing the East German political system were arrested by the Stasi (secret police) and brought to this custody building. In its first and darkest years, the prison’s cellars, known as “the submarine,” were used to inflict psychological torture on the inmates, while the relatively more humane cells are on the upper floors, next to a seemingly never-ending corridor lined with interrogation rooms. Tours in English on Wed, Sat, and Sun at 2:30pm in winter, daily at 11:30am and 2:30pm in summer. €6/3. en.stiftung-hsh.de. Genslerstr. 66. T: 030.98608230. S Landsberger

KIDS & FAMILIES Berlin Zoo and Aquarium

MUST SEE One of the city’s main attractions and the oldest zoo in Germany includes pavilions that provide ample indoor space, making the venue suitable for rainy days. The zoo boasts the largest number of species and total animal residents in the world. The aquarium, one of the largest in Europe, features large tanks with piranhas, sharks, and alligators. Daily 9am–6:30pm. Zoo or aquarium: €14.50/7.50, under-4s free. Combined ZooAquarium ticket: €20/10. www.aquarium-berlin.de, www.zoo-berlin.de Hardenbergplatz 8. T: 030.254010. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Botanischer Garten This large park was designed in the Romantic English style, with hills, lakes, and pretty greenhouses. There is a palm house and a whole section dedicated to exotic plants, including orchids, cacti, and carnivorous plants. Open daily 9am–ca. one hour before sunset. Museum closes at 6pm. €6/3.

Domäne Dahlem City Farm A real farm in the Berlin suburbs, with a manor house from the 1600s, boasts farm grounds that are still in use, complete with all the usual barnyard animals. There’s also a small exhibition of ancient agricultural tools and a Saturday-morning farmers’ market. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm in summer. Farm: Free except during special events. Museum: €3/1.50. www.domaenedahlem.de. Königin-Luise-Str. 49. T: 030.6663000. U Dahlem Dorf. Off Map

Karls-Erlebnisdorf What began as a family-run strawberry farm has blossomed into an amusement park empire. With seven locations, including one just west of Berlin city limits, Karls Erlebnisdorf offers year-round fun for the whole family. Sample the famous Karl's strawberries and all sorts of berry treats, take a ride down the roller coaster or giant potato sack slide, and have all sorts of memorable adventures. Open daily 8am–7pm. Price per activity varies. www.karls.de. Döberitzer Heide 1, 14641 Elstal. T: 038.2024050. Off Map

Madame Tussauds Have your picture taken with Angela Merkel, Albert Einstein, One Direction, or a host of other famous names in entertainment and politics. And, yes, there's even a wax Adolf Hitler, depicted as a little man standing in despair in his bunker during his final days. Daily 10am–7pm (Aug until 8pm). €23.50/18.50, discounts if you book online. Combined Berlin Dungeon, LEGOLAND, and Sea Life tickets available. www.madametussauds.com. Unter den Linden 74. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

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POTSDAM Biosphäre Potsdam This tropical indoor garden features a greenhouse with more than 20,000 plants, including a palm grove and mangrove swamp, as well as animals such as iguanas, parrots, geckos, frogs, and butterflies. Daily Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, from 10am on weekends and holidays. €11.50/9.80. Under-3s free. www.biosphaere-potsdam.de. Georg-HalemannAllee 99. T: 0331.550740. Tram 96 from Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

Filmpark Babelsberg In the early 1900s, the Babelsberg film studios produced some of the most important films of the silent era, including Metropolis, until the facilities were taken over by the Nazi regime to produce political propaganda. Today, the studios are still in use, but part of the complex has been turned into a theme park, with old sets, stuntmen, special effects, and children’s sections dedicated to popular TV characters. Daily 10am–6pm from April to October, closed Mon in May and on Mon and Tues in September, on 6 and 13 October. €21/14, under-4s free. www.filmpark-babelsberg.de. Grossbeerenstr. Potsdam-Babelsberg. T: 0331.7212750. S Griebnitzsee. Off Map

Sanssouci MUST SEE The sumptuous Rococo castle of Potsdam's Sanssouci was commissioned in 1745 by Frederick the Great, who wanted "a place to be without cares." The king of Prussia employed the finest architects of the day to design the Baroque park, the Schloß placed above terraced vineyards, the more sober New Palace, and a few other pavilions scattered in the park. Daily 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm); Mon closed. €15/11. www.spsg.de. An der Orangerie 1, Potsdam. T: 0331.9694200. S Potsdam or regional train from Zoologischer Garten to Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

TOURS & WALKS Berliner Unterwelten (Underground Tours) Since 1997, the Berlin Underworlds Association has been offering regular tours of underground structures and subterranean complexes that are otherwise inaccessible. Cold War nuclear shelters, Hitler’s underground fortress, escape routes to the West, and WWII bunkers are just some of the adventures on offer. From €10. www.berlinerunterwelten.de. Brunnenstr. 105. T: 030.49910517.

To The Batcave!

Let‘s go up!

Bats are pretty incredible creatures. They’re the only mammals that can fly, navigating perfectly in the pitch dark thanks to their superb echolocation skills. Their knack for flight means bats have spread to just about every habitat around the globe, with the exception of the Arctic. Nearly 20 bat species live right here in Berlin, for example, and a particularly important habitat for these at-risk creatures is Zitadelle Spandau, a 16th-century fortress on the northwest fringe of the city. Around 10,000 bats make their home every year in the fortress’s caves and ramparts. Come face to face with 150 of them at the Fledermauskeller, or "bat cellar," an indoor habitat and exhibition staffed by volunteers from a bat protection group. Around 30 Egyptian fruit bats and 120 cute, snub-nosed, short-tailed bats native to Central America live here, chomping their way through 12 kg of fruits and vegetables per day. The space is open daily from 12–5pm and personalized tours can be booked upon request, letting groups help with bat feedings or exploring the wild bats’ favorite roosting spots around the fortress. Zitadelle Spandau: Am Juliusturm 64, Haus 4. www.bat-ev.de

Towering 368m above Berlin, the TV Tower dominates the city’s skyline like no other building. Plan your visit for the observation deck or the revolving restaurant “Sphere” now and avoid the queues – book your Fast Track Ticket online. Berlin TV Tower – simply unforgettable!

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SIGHTSEEING CooLTourings Segway Tours Covering Berlin’s top 20 sightseeing highlights, CooLTourings takes individual visitors or large groups on an exciting ride aboard a Segway, a fun and fast way to explore the city. www.seg-berlin-ways.de. T: 030.26321381.

Tempelhof Airport Building MUST SEE What used to be the city’s most central airport is now a four-hectare (10-acre) public park whose six kilometers (3.75 miles) of runways are used for cycling, skating, and a variety of other sports. The airport building, built in Nazi times and later used by the Allies, is a symbol of the city's eventful history, and offers guided tours every Wed, Fri, Sat, and Sun. www.thf-berlin.de. T: 030.200037441. Tempelhofer Damm. S Tempelhof, U Platz der Luftbrücke, U Boddinstraße. Off Map

Trabi World For a quintessential Berlin tour experience, hop inside real Trabants, the iconic cars of the former GDR. Visitors drive their personal Trabis, while, via the car’s radio, the group leader provides historical and quirky facts. Three different tours available. €30-50. www.trabi-world.de. Zimmerstr. 97. T: 030.30201030.orate one mile of the Wall's eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery. Mühlenstraße. S+U Warschauer Straße, S Ostbahnhof. G4

RIVER TRIPS Reederei Riedel Fourteen ships take visitors on 1-, 1.5-, and 3-hour cruises of the city’s canals and rivers. www.reederei-riedel.de. T: 030.67961470.

Schiffskontor Here you can rent a charter boat for that special occasion in various styles from bygone eras. Tours include along the River Spree to the historical city center or further east to the canals of NeuVenedig. www.schiffskontor.de. Am Speicher 7. T: 030 246479960. S Rummelsburg.

Spreeboote This boat rental company offers pedal boats, motorboats, and electric boats. Many are licensefree, however, a skipper can be booked upon request, as well as a selection of picnic, barbecue, and beverage boxes. www.spreeboote.de. Zur alten Flussbadeanstalt 5. S Rummelsburg.

Stern und Kreis Schiffahrt Choose from 30 different boat tours along the city’s rivers and canals, including bus-boat combination tours of the Brandenburg region. buchung.sternundkreis.de. T: 030.5363600.

BERLIN WEEKEND Only have a weekend to visit this fabulous city? Make the most of it with our quick guide! DAY ONE AM - Start off with a free walking tour (www. originalberlintours.com), covering the city’s main attractions and history. For a nearby lunch, Berlin’s oldest quarter Nikolaiviertel has many traditional dining options or the restaurant atop the TV Tower on Alexanderplatz has great city views. PM - Spend the second half of the day discovering Berlin's artistic side at Museum Island, a UNESCO world heritage site and home to the mythical Nefertiti bust and Pergamon Altar. For a taste of Berlin's large Turkish community, head to Kreuzberg for dinner. Then end on a high note with a performance at the Berlin Philharmonic.

DAY TWO PM – Head west and walk along luxury shopping strip Ku'damm or through the royal gardens at the Charlottenburg Palace (p.39). When hunger strikes, Savignyplatz, former stomping ground of Berlin’s intellectual bohemians, has many restaurants from which to choose.

Germans love climbing, as attested by the many high ropes courses in the forests of Berlin. For a kid-sized climbing adventure, head to Mini Monkeys Kletterwald. Let your little one test out their balancing, climbing, and swinging skills as they maneuver their way through the obstacle course. Some activities like the sled flying fox are just sheer fun, while others require guts and strength, like those on the almost-impossible black run. Should the weather be a little on the chilly side you can always retreat to the indoor playground and eating area. The €11 ticket includes a crepe. August-Bebel-Str. 149, Blankenfelde-Mahlow (second location OT Briese, Birkenwerder). T: 0172.3825443. www.minimonkey-kletterwald.de

ON A LONG WEEKEND... Got a bit more time? Venture into Grunewald forest and visit green Berlin and its many lakes. A loop around Krumme Lanke is a pleasant one-hour walk, followed by something to eat and drink at Fischerhütte am Schlachtensee (Fischerhüttenstr. 136) restaurant overlooking the adjoining lake.

Little Monkeys

AM – Now head east and walk along the East Side Gallery, the largest remaining strip of the Berlin Wall turned into an open-air art gallery. For dinner, make your way to Kollwitzplatz in the hip Prenzlauer Berg district surrounded by lovely cafés and restaurants. Afterwards, dance the night away to techno beats at the legendary Berghain (p.61).

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THE GUIDE | MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

DOMÄNE DAHLEM: © ISTOCK AND COURTESY OF DOMÄNE DAHLEM; TOPOGRAPHIE DES TERRORS: COURTESY OF TOPOGRAPHIE DES TERRORS WALL MEMORIAL: COURTESY OF BERLIN WALL MEMORIAL BERNAUER STRASSE.

Clockwise from top left: The Berlin Wall Memorial; the Topographie des Terrors; Domäne Dahlem. Center: A fair at Domäne Dahlem.

Under Berlin’s Sky Energized by the sun, Serene Tseng sets off to learn more about Berlin, but without setting foot indoors. With such nice weather during the summer, it’s no wonder that Berliners are outside soaking up the sun. But after all the grilling and swimming, it's time for some culture! Domäne Dahlem (Königin-Luise-Straße 49, www.domaene-dahlem.de), in the southwest of Berlin, is the perfect stop for families. Located on a large estate dating back to the 16th century, the interactive, open-air museum invites visitors to learn about agrarian history through the organic farm and animals. Children can explore the relationship between agriculture and food consumption. The organic farmer’s market every Saturday sells fresh eggs and produce from the garden. Der verlassene Raum (The Deserted

Room) at Koppenplatz in Mitte is dedicated to the Jewish citizens of Berlin whose lives were torn apart during Nazi Germany. From afar, the memorial appears to be a scene from an office or dining room. Up close, however, visitors see that the larger-than-life table and chairs are actually sculpted out of bronze, and one of the chairs is knocked over, as if someone just left in great haste. Located on the site of the former Gestapo and SS headquarters, the Topography of Terror (Niederkirchnerstr. 8) is a documentation center. This summer, the trench-style open-air exhibition will be following the history and outcomes of the People’s Court, established in 1934 under

Hitler’s orders to convict all his opponents. No trip to Berlin is complete without a stop at the Berlin Wall Memorial (www. berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de). The open-air memorial is located on Bernauer Straße, chosen for its significance throughout the history of the Berlin Wall. On 10 November 1989, sections of the Wall here were knocked down, and Bernauer Straße became one of the first open border crossings between East and West. Today, the tall, red, and imposing steel poles rising out of the ground represent where the Wall once stood, while preserved sections of the Wall and so-called "death strip" reveal just how brutal the city's division once was. www.wheretraveler.com 41

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

MUSEUMS Altes Museum Berlin’s collection of classical antiquities, housed inside a breathtaking Neoclassical building. Take in the mosaic floor of Hadrian’s villa, a wealth of Greek sculptures, and a number of Etruscan and Roman finds. To 31 Aug: Flesh | Meat. Between life and death is meat and our relationship to It. Tue– Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am– 6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Alte Nationalgalerie A splendorous collection of 19th-century art. To 15 Jul: Concordia - Art and Science in Harmony. Leo von Klenze and Karl Richard Lepsius. Two artists' work that fused archaeology with art. To 16 Sep: Wanderlust. From Caspar David Friedrich to Auguste Renoir. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6 with exhibition, €10/5 museum only. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1–3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Bode Museum An extensive collection of Old Masters’ paintings, a section dedicated to ancient coins, and many works of Roman and Byzantine art adorn the

museum’s impressive interior, built by Ernst von Ihne in 1904. To 31 Jan: Two Camels and a Saint. The Antique Pilgrimage Site of Abu Mina in Egypt. An exploration of the ancient pilgrimage site. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.smb.museum. Am Kupfergraben. T: 030.266424242. U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Bröhan Museum Starting in 1966, collector Karl Bröhan amassed hundreds of Art Nouveau and Art Deco objects and various paintings from the Berlin Secessionist movement. Browse through pieces of furniture, housewares, ceramics, and glassware from this fascinating artistic period. www.broehan-museum. de. Schloßstr. 1a. T: 030: 32690600. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

DDR Museum Learn about daily life in the former East Germany at this hands-on museum. Closets filled with GDR (DDR in German) fashion and a Trabant (the GDR car) are just some of the items on display, while photographs illustrate Communist habits, such as collectively potty-training babies or going on nudist holidays. Mon–Sun 10am–8pm, Sat until 10pm. €7/4. www.ddr-museum.de. Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 1. T: 030.847123731. S Hackescher Markt, U Alexanderplatz. E3

Deutsches Historisches Museum MUST SEE Learn about the milestones in German history from the Roman occupation of the Germanic areas to the present day. To 6 Jan: Europe and the Sea. Exploring the history of Europe, the maritime continent. To 26 Aug: Saving – History of a German Virtue. Exploring how saving became a behavior linked to Germany. Daily 10am–6pm. €8/4 (under-18s free). www.dhm.de. Unter den Linden 2. T: 030.203040. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Deutsches Technikmuseum MUST SEE At the museum for all things technology, the old locomotives and aviation rooms are the most popular attractions, while a Rosinenbomber, a 1948 Berlin Airlift aircraft, is mounted on the museum’s roof. A hands-on section allows kids to conduct experiments. To 31 Jul: Cars from the Depot on Show. Showing more than 200 cars, from 1923-1987. To 2 Sep: Seamarks! Highlights of Orientation Along Germany's Coasts. A presentation of how seafarers found their direction on the sea. Mon–Fri 9am–5:30pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €8/4. www.sdtb.de. Trebbiner Str. 9. T: 030.902540. U Möckernbrücke, U Gleisdreieck. E4

Erlebnis Europa Experience Europe in the heart of Berlin! Take a seat in their 360° cinema for a plenary session

Deep in the heart of peaceful, placid Zehlendorf awaits an extraordinary glimpse into Japan's infamous warrior culture. The Samurai Art Museum is home to one of the largest collections of samurai relics in the world, featuring exquisitely crafted, centuriesold samurai armor, helmets, masks, and swords that are rarely seen outside of Japan. The samurai, members of the powerful warrior class who wielded great power in feudal Japan, were bound by a code of honor, loyalty, and bravery known as the bushido, "the way of warriors." Samurai enthusiast Peter Janssen spent more than three decades amassing his collection, which includes fearsome armor worn on the battlefield as well as decorative pieces designed to indicate rank and status. His custom-built exhibition space opens three afternoons per week (Wednesday, Friday, Sunday) to give the public the chance to admire the impressive array of pieces, including jaw-dropping suits of armor made from chain mail, gold plating, and bearskin, as well as stunning katana swords that were treasured in Japanese families for many generations. Clayallee 225D. T: 030 213002780. www.samurai-artmuseum.com

The Way Of Warriors

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Ephraim Palais Temporary exhibitions on local cultural history fill this great Baroque building. Demolished in 1935, the Palais was rebuilt in 1983 using its original façade, which had been stored in a warehouse for almost 50 years. Open Tue, Thu–Sun 10am–6pm, Wed noon-8pm. €7/5 (under 18s free, first Wed of month free entry). www.stadtmuseum.de. Poststr. 16. T: 030.24002162. U Alexanderplatz. F3

Friedrichshain-Kreuzberg Museum

Museum of Prints and Drawings boasts 150,000+ pieces, including masterpieces by Botticelli, Dürer, and Goya. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 11am– 6pm. €6/3. www.smb.museum. Matthäikirchplatz. T: 030.266424242. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Märkisches Museum Documents, photos, books, and weapons walk visitors through 750 years of Berlin history in a neo-Gothic setting. To 14 Sep: BIZIM BERLIN 89/90. Photographs by Ergun Çagatay. Photographic documents of the German Reunification through the lens of Berlin's Turkish population. Free admission until 9 June. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €6/4 (under-18s free; free entry first Wed of month). www.stadtmuseum.de. Am Köllnischen Park 5. T: 030.24002162. U Märkisches Museum. F3

MUST SEE One of the city’s best art and photography exhibition spaces and an important example of early 20th-century architecture, the imposing building combines Italian Renaissance elements with local features, such as mosaics of allegorical figures. To 5 Aug: Welt ohne Außen. A dive into the immersive practices that reduce the distance between subject The Gay Museum (Schwules and object. To 5 Aug: Philippe Museum) Parreno. Using the exhibition as a One of the world’s largest and most medium exploring light, sound, and significant institutions for archiving, image. To 22 Jul: Covered in Time Visit the Märkisches researching, and communicating and History: The Films of Ana Mendieta. Museum for an overview the history and culture of LGBTQ of the city's 750 years Using the female form to explore communities. Changing exhibitions of history. body art, the environment, and take diverse approaches to lesbian, nature. To Feb 2019: Wu Tsang. gay, transsexual, bisexual, and queer Her year-long residency explores states biographies and concepts in history, art, between documentary and fiction. and culture. To 20 Aug: Lesbian Visions. Wed–Mon 10am–7pm. Prices vary by exhibition. A relook at the dominant perspective of artists www.gropiusbau.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 7. who traditionally exhibit in museums. To 31 Dec: T: 030.254860. Year of the Women*. Twelve months of programs, U Kochstraße. E4 exhibitions, lectures, and transformation. To 5 Jan: 12 Moons. A yearlong program featuring films Mendelssohn Exhibit by feminist filmmakers and video artists. To 31 A Jewish Enlightenment philosopher, a worldJan: Spirits. The museum's café transforms into an renowned composer, and generations of bankers interactive exhibition space for sharing. Sun–Mon, made the history of the influential Mendelssohn Wed–Fri 2–6pm, Thu 2–8pm, Sat 2–7pm. €6/4. family, whose members were persecuted as www.schwulesmuseum.de. Lützowstr. 73. Jews despite having converted to Christianity. T: 030.69599050. U Nollendorfplatz. D4 Daily noon–6pm. € free. www.mendelssohnMUST SEE Daniel Libeskind’s architectural jewel,

Menschen Museum

Käthe Kollwitz Museum

Museum Barberini Potsdam

Kupferstichkabinett MUST SEE With a collection begun in 1652 by the

Great Elector and works dating back to medieval times, the institute known in English as the

(worth

2,80 €)

open daily:

Jan - Jun 12 p.m. - 8 p.m. Jul - Aug 10 a.m. - 8 p.m. Sep - Dec 12 p.m. - 8 p.m. (24th December closed)

Last entrance: 7 p.m. Potsdamer Platz entrance: Leipziger Platz 7

2707

3360

Infos: 0700 - 325 423 75**| Tickets: www.DaliBerlin.de

(**0,14 €/ Min. from a landline, mobile communications vary, max 0,42 €/ Min.) *only in combination with the entrance fee. Cannot be combined with other offers. Valid until September, 30th 2018.

With over 450 exhibits from private collections this permanent exhibition provides general insight into Dalí’s virtuous mastery in almost all art techniques in Berlin’s lively city centre.

www.daliberlin.de

gesellschaft.de. Jägerstr. 51. T: 030.81704726. U Französische Straße. E3

shaped as a deconstructed Star of David, explores millennia of German Jewish history, including the alternating glories and persecutions of the community. To Spring 2019: Welcome to Jerusalem. An exploration of Jerusalem through time and religions. To Fall 2019: Ganzfeld "Aural" by James Turrell. Immersive light sculptures in the museum's garden Daily 10am–8pm, Mon until 10pm. €8/3. www.jmberlin.de. Lindenstr. 9-14. T: 030.25993300. U Hallesches Tor, U Kochstraße. E4 Introduces the powerful and tortured art of one of the most relevant German women artists of the last century. Her primary focus was the daily struggles of the poor and the tragedy of war. Featuring works from Kollwitz’s most intensive and emotionally-charged years. Daily 11am–6pm. €6/3. www.kaethe-kollwitz.de. Fasanenstr. 24. T: 030.8825210. U Uhlandstraße. C4

permanen

Martin-Gropius-Bau

Kreuzberg enthusiasts can learn more about the history and radical legacy of this legendary neighborhood at this small museum housed in a typical red-brick building. Open Wed–Sun noon– 6pm. www.kreuzbergmuseum.de. Adalbertstr. 95a. T: 030.50585233. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Jewish Museum

l museum Internatiotna exhibition

Hômmage á S. Dalí by DaVial

of the European Parliament, take on the role of a Commissioner of the European Union in their simulation game, discover EU members states with facts and figures and stories from daily life, or simply take a European happy snap to send home. All in 24 European languages. Open daily 10am–6pm. Free Admission. www.erlebnis-europa.eu. Unter den Linden 78. T: 030 22802900. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

The internationally popular touring exhibition Body Worlds showcased anatomist Gunther von Hagens’ plastination process, which preserves body parts and reveals their inner structures. The permanent Berlin exhibition shows 200 body parts and 20 whole-body preparations, focusing on specific organs and diseases. Daily 10am–7pm. www.memu.berlin. Panoramaplatz 1. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3 Located in a reconstructed palace in the historic center of Potsdam, this museum houses the collection of founder and patron Hasso Plattner. Exhibitions range from Old Masters to contemporary art with a focus on impressionism. With the Barberini App you can choose your own audio tour. Wed–Mon 10am–7pm. €14/10 (€8 after 6pm; kids and students free). Alter Markt, Humboldtstr. 5–6. T: 0331 236014499. Off Map

Museum Berggruen

Immerse yourself in the monumental panorama and experience the everyday life in the 1980s in Berlin ASISI PANORAMA BERLIN Checkpoint Charlie, Friedrichstr. 205, 10117 Berlin service@die-mauer.de, U-Bhf. Kochstraße asisi.de, die-mauer.de/en

MUST SEE A can’t-miss for Picassophiles. The

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Spanish painter is the star of this Charlottenburg museum, which boasts dozens of rooms filled with his paintings. The collection encompasses 75 years works by Matisse, Klee, Giacometti, Van Gogh, Cézanne, and many more. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 1. T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Museum of Photography Diverse and comprehesive exhibitions curated from the Berlin Art Library’s vast photographic collection are housed in a Neoclassical 1909 building built for the Prussian army’s officer corps, whose lower two floors are occupied by the Helmut Newton Foundation. To 18 Nov: Between Art & Fashion. Photographs from the collection of Carla Sozzani, former editor-in-chief of Italian Elle and Vogue. To 7 Oct: Artist Complex. Photographic Portraits from Baselitz to Warhol. Works from photographer Angelika Platen. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.266424242. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3–C4

Museum of Musical Instruments

Museum of Communication An entertaining journey through the history of communication inside the neo-Baroque building that once hosted Berlin’s post office museum. Robots welcome visitors and iPads make perfect tour guides through the most intriguing steps in the development of postal and telephone communication, all the way to the era of information technology. Open Tue 9am–8pm, Wed–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat & Sun 10am–6pm. €4/2. www.mfk-berlin.de. Leipziger Str. 16. T: 030.202940. U Mohrenstraße, Stadtmitte. E3

Shake It Like A Polaroid! With nothing more than a click and a few seconds as the photo develops, the Polaroid captures the fleeting, unrepeatable moments of life instantly, no negatives and no darkroom needed. Because of its speedy and spontaneous charm, the Polaroid has always been popular with professional and amateur photographers alike. Andy Warhol, with his work on the transitory world of fashion and consumer culture, is one such artist who embraced the camera, while Dennis Hopper used the Polaroid to capture the street art in Los Angeles as research for his films. The Polaroid Project, showing at C/O Berlin (p. 45) starting 7 July, explores the camera’s analog appeal and impact on photography despite the current trend towards digitalization.

world-famous Egyptian collection that includes many important papyruses, while hundreds of artifacts relate early human history. Badly damaged during WWII and left abandoned until the 1980s, the museum reopened in 2009. To 7 Oct: Margiana. A Bronze Age Kingdom in Turkmenistan. Objects from the ancient kingdom, shown for the Museum für Naturkunde first time outside of Turkmenistan. To Sep 2019: Home to the world’s largest mounted dinosaur The Crown of Kerch. Treasures from the Dawn of skeleton and to Europe's first original European History. Featuring gold jewelry T. rex, the natural history museum from the Migration Period found near also features a rare speciment of the Black Sea. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm Archaeopterix, as well as extensive (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. collections of shells, insects, and €12/6. www.neues-museum.de. The Allied Museum in mammals. Tue–Fri 9:30–6pm, Bodestr. 1-3. Zehlendorf traces the Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €8/5. T: 030.266424242. history of the Allied www.museumfuernaturkunde. presence in Berlin. S+U Friedrichstraße, berlin. Invalidenstr. 43. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3 T: 030.8891408591. U Pergamon Museum Naturkundemuseum. E2 One of Berlin’s main attractions, the Pergamon Museum The Kennedys houses the outcome of Germany’s early-20thWhen he delivered his famous “Ich bin ein century archeology excavations. The imposing Berliner” speech, John F. Kennedy automatically Ishtar Gate of Babylon with its glazed blue bricks became Berlin’s favorite US president. This Myletus, the reconstructed interiors of an Assyrian museum is a tribute to him and his family. Films, world. Altar room closed for restoration through photographs, and even comic books tell us 2019. To 8 Jul: A Gallery in a Book. Islamic Albums. about his visit to Berlin, his assassination, and Beautiful drawings and calligraphy commissioned his children. Open Tue–Sun 11am–7pm. by Mogul-era art lovers. www.smb.museum. www.thekennedys.de. Auguststr. 11–13. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. T: 030.20653570. S Oranienburger Straße. E2 S Hackescher Markt. E3

Neues Museum MUST SEE The 3300-year-old bust of Queen

Nefertiti is the museum’s top attraction. Examine a

The German Spy Museum Delve into the world of espionage with two floors of interactive exhibits covering some 3500

years of espionage history. Highlights include presentations on James Bond and other famous fictitious spies and a laser maze that tests your agility to break into – or out of – compromising locations. €12/8. Daily 10am-8pm. www.deutsches-spionagemuseum.de. Leipziger Platz 9. S+U Potsdamer Platz E3

Stasi Museum The GDR’s Ministry of State Security, the Stasi, has been described as one of the most repressive intelligence and secret police agencies to ever have existed. Explore the agency’s headquarters and learn about their spying techniques, inc. cameras hidden in watering cans or inside fake trees. Open Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat & Sun noon–6pm. €5/4. www.stasimuseum.de. Ruschestr. 103. T: 030.5536854. U Magdalenenstraße. Off Map

ART GALLERIES Akademie der Künste Hanseatenweg The Berlin Art Academy’s long and prestigious history dates back to 1696. Today, this important exhibition space houses one of the most comprehensive interdisciplinary archives of 20th-century art. Daily 11am–7pm. €6/4.). www.adk.de. Hanseatenweg 10. T: 030.200572000. S Bellevue, U Hansaplatz. C3

Berlinische Galerie A modern art collection of 5000+ works of German and Eastern European paintings. To 15 Oct: Loredana Nemes. Photographs 2008-2017. Exploring

GUY BOURDIN, CHARLES JOURDAN 1978, C-PRINT, 88,9 X 116,8 CM © THE GUY BOURDIN ESTATE 2017 / COURTESY OF LOUISE ALEXANDER GALLERY

A fascinating collection of ancient and modern musical instruments, including bagpipes, harpsichords, and instruments once owned by celebrities. Check the website for the weekly demonstrations of the most impressive musical machines, such as a silent film-era cinema organ. Open Tue, Wed, Fri 9am–5pm, Thu 9am–8pm, Sat & Sun 10am–5pm. €6/3 (under 18s free). www.sim. spk-berlin.de. Tiergartenstr. 1. T: 030.254810. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

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themes of barely-suppressed energy, on the brink of change. To 3 Sep: Carsten Nicolai. Straddling the line between visual art and electronic sound. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm. €8/5 (€10/7 during exhibitions). www.berlinischegalerie.de. Alte Jakobstr. 124-128. T: 030.78902600. U Hallesches Tor. E4

Brücke Museum Founded in Dresden in 1905, the Die Brücke movement drew inspiration from primitive art and expressed extreme emotion and political opposition through lively, exaggerated color. This museum explores the history of the movement through the paintings of artists like Nolde, Kirchner, Heckel, and many more. To 12 Aug: An Artists' Musum for Berlin: Karl Schmidt-Rottluff, Leopold Reidemeister and Werner Düttmann. Tracing back to the founding of the museum as the place for exchange Open Wed–Mon 11am–5pm. €5/3. www. bruecke-museum.de. Bussardsteig 9. T: 030.8312029. U Oskar-Helene-Heim. Off Map

C/O Berlin MUST SEE Contemporary art and photography has finally reopened in the Amerika Haus, which housed the American library during the Cold War era. From 7 Jul: Wim Wenders. Instant Stories. Over 200 of Wenders's polaroid shots. From 7 Jul: The Polaroid Project. Dedicated to the influential and unique instant camera. From 7 Jul: C/O Berlin Talent Award. Stefanie Moshammer. not just your face honey. The first winner of the talent award presents her work exploring reality, fiction, and truth in photographic images. Daily 11am–8pm. €10/5. www.co-berlin.org Hardenbergstr. 22–24. T: 030.28444160. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

For Explorers! Trebbiner Str. 9, 10963 Berlin | www.sdtb.de |

Dalí – The Exhibition The permanent exhibit features more than 400 works, most from private collections, by the Surrealist painter, with a focus on drawing, illustration, and film. Dalí fans explore new perspectives of the artist’s life and work. Daily noon–8pm (10am–8pm in summer). €12.50. www. daliberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 7. Toll number: 0700.3254237546. U Potsdamer Platz. D3

/deutschestechnikmuseum

Berliner Festspiele

Gropius Bau 20.4.– 22.7.18

Gemäldegalerie – Old Masters Painting Gallery MUST SEE One of the finest collections of

European art from the 13th to the 18th centuries. Lots of Dutch and Flemish painters, including Rembrandt and Vermeer, and a vast collection of Italian Renaissance art, including Botticelli, Titian, and Canaletto. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Matthäikirchplatz 50. T: 030.266424242. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Georg-Kolbe-Museum

An idyllic garden houses the former studio of German Secessionist artist Georg Kolbe, who used the human body as an expression of the human spirit, challenging the role of sculpture as a representation of mythological or heroic symbolism. The museum displays a wide selection of works and hosts frequent exhibitions. To 17 Jun: The First Generation. Women sculptors of the Berlin Modernism. Featuring 60 works from the first generation of independent female sculptors. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3. www.georg-kolbemuseum.de. Sensburger Allee 25. T: 030.3042144. S Heerstraße. Off Map

Hamburger Bahnhof The permanent collection of this former railway

Covered in Time and History: Die Filme von

Ana Mendieta Mendieta, Untitled: Silueta, Series, 1978, Super 8 film, color, silent © The Estate of Ana Mendieta, Collection, LLC. Courtesy Galerie Lelong & Co

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

R Rundgang undgang 50Hertz 5 0Hertz 4 – 29 July 2018 Ana Belén Cantoni Judith Dorothea Gerke Timo Hinze

station includes a selection of works from the Friedrich Christian Flick Collection, and the many temporary exhibitions focus on painting and sculpture from the past 50 years, as well as videos, music, and design. To 26 Aug: Hello World. Revisioning a Collection. g. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €14/7. www.smb.museum. Invalidenstr. 50-51. T: 030.266424242. U Naturkundemuseum, S Hauptbahnhof. D2

Helmut Newton Foundation Before dying in a car accident on Sunset Boulevard in 2004, the art photographer donated all of his work to his hometown of Berlin. Best known for his nude photography of American stars, Newton now has an entire museum dedicated to his oeuvre. To 18 Nov: Between Art and Fashion. Photographs from the collection of Carla Sozzani, former editor-in-chief of Italian Elle and Vogue. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm, Thu until 8pm. €10/5. www.helmutnewton.com. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.31864856. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

Young art from the academies presented at the corporate headquarters of 50Hertz, in cooperation with the Nationalgalerie, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin.

www.smb.museum/hbf 50Hertz, Heidestraße 2, 10557 Berlin Tues – Sun / 11 a.m. – 6 p.m. Free admission

Liebermann Villa on Lake Wannsee

Berlin’s history

There are many reasons to love the German capital.

1 2 3

AUGUSTSTRASSE IN MITTE: one long art gallery. SHOPPING AT KADEWE: the biggest department store in Europe. THE MIX OF CULTURES: hundreds of languages and foods.

CT L he former summer residence of artist Max Liebermann, co-founder and head of the German Secessionist movement. Before being dismissed and banned by the Nazis in 1933, Liebermann painted around 200 works in this villa, some of which are on display in his studio on the upper floor. €3 plus museum entry. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm (11am–5pm in winter). €7/4 (€6/4 in summer). www.liebermann-villa.de. Colomierstr. 3. T: 030.80585900. S Wannsee. Off Map

me Collectors Room

Take a walk through

THINGS WE LOVE ABOUT BERLIN

Thomas Olbricht created this space to bring together other international art collectors and to organize exhibitions, workshops, and concerts. The upper floor houses his “cabinet of curiosities.” To 27 Aug: Outlook: EVA & ADELE - L'AMOUR DU RISQUE. Presenting the artist couple's multi-medium work in the last 25 years. Tue–Sun noon–6pm. €7/4. www.me-berlin.com. Auguststr. 68. T: 030.86008510. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Sammlung Boros

4 5 6

THE HISTORIC BUILDINGS: a feast of architectural styles. THE CULTURE: three opera houses and myriad theaters big and small. THE CITY’S LAID-BACK NATURE: a relaxed, casual look rules.

No more than 12 guests at a time can visit this former Nazi bunker turned art gallery. Collector Chistian Boros bought the historic building in 2003 to fill it up with contemporary art by artists like Damien Hirst, Olafur Eliasson, and more. Open by appointment only (book online). €12. www.sammlung-boros.de. Reinhardtstr. 20. T: 030.27594065. S+U Friedrichstraße. E2/E3

Sammlung Hoffmann An old sewing factory behind the Hackesche Höfe now contains Rolf and Erika Hoffmann’s private collection. Erika herself shows visitors around her art-packed apartment on Saturdays between 11am and 4pm. €10. www.sammlung-hoffmann.de. Sophie-Gips-Höfe, Aufgang C, Sophienstr. 21. T: 030.28499120. S Hackescher Markt. F2 ©ISTOCK

Sammlung Scharf-Gerstenberg

Berlin

The Scharf-Gerstenberg collection houses three floors of works by some of the giants of Surrealism, including Paul Klee, Max Ernst, Salvador Dalí, and René Magritte. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 70. T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

7 8 9 10

THE SPREE RIVER and the city’s endless waterways. THE CULINARY DIVERSITY, from arroz con pollo to Zimtsterne. EXPERIENCING THE CITY BY NIGHT. Berlin is safe, lively, and insomniac. THE ASISI WALL PANORAMA: a journey back in time.

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THE GUIDE | DINING

KATZ ORANGE: © THANASIS BOUCHARAS; KATZ ORANGE DISH: © LAURA MARIA TRUMPP; THE GRAND: © THE GRAND; HEIMLICH TREU: COURTESY OF HEIMLICH TREU.

right: Freiluftkino Kreuzberg; ThisTop photo and center: Katz Orange; photo and left: stillsHeimlich from the AboveThis right and inset, below: Jewish Film Festival. Treu; Below right: The Grand.

Summer Nights On The Terrace Hilda Hoy would dine al fresco every night if only the Berlin climate allowed it. At this time of year, there’s nothing better than capping off a beautiful day with dinner under the stars. Since the winters here are so long and dreary, Berliners have a knack for making the most of the al fresco dining season. Restaurant patios and gardens are everywhere, but to find these three idyllic terraces, you’ll have to know where to look. They’re hidden away in secluded inner courtyards, offering peace and seclusion along with top-notch food. Heimlich Treu (Anklamer Str. 38, 2nd courtyard, www.heimlichtreu.de) is secreted away in the lush second courtyard of a residential building, making it feel like an insider's tip. Though it’s just a stone’s throw from hectic Rosenthaler Platz, this oasis of calm feels a world away. Take a seat under the courtyard's trees to enjoy confident renditions of contemporary European cuisine, such as ox cheek ravioli, tender grilled octopus, and roasted chicory with honey. Don't pass up the

excellent cocktail menu, which was created by Arnd Heissen, the man behind the Ritz Carlton’s celebrated Curtain Club and Fragrances bars. Kick off the evening with a Tempting Mule, a twist on the Moscow Mule with Cointreau and seductive whiffs of sandalwood. Despite its location just a few blocks from Alexanderplatz, The Grand (Hirtenstr. 4, www.the-grandberlin.com) nonetheless feels like a special secret. Behind the unassuming façade of a former 1800s schoolhouse hides a plush restaurant worthy of its name. In fact, The Grand has it all, the trifecta of the perfect night out: dinner, drinks, and dancing. The interior has been spiffed up with dazzling chandeliers and glamorous Great Gatsbyesque style, and the ambiance is just as lovely out on the spacious courtyard terrace. Dine

deluxe on oysters, lobster au gratin, and premium steaks, from French Chateaubriand and Japanese Kobe to six-week dry-aged U.S. Porterhouse. Then head into the 1920s-styled bar for a nightcap and a cigar, or if the night still feels young, hit the dance floor in the upstairs club. It may seem laissez-faire in comparison to The Grand, but Katz Orange (Bergstr. 22, www.katzorange.com) has style of its own to spare. Tucked away in a former courtyard brewery, this eternally popular Mitte hotspot features warm, buzzing vibes, effortlessly cool boho-chic décor and fresh, creative cuisine that doesn't shy away from bold flavors. Start off with lemongrass-coriander mussels or caramelized octopus for the table to share before moving on to the house specialty, “Candy on Bone” pork roasted slowly for more than 12 hours. www.wheretraveler.com 47

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DINING

DINING KEY Alc (à la carte): Prices are per person for three courses (excl. drinks) €: under €15. €€: €15–€40. €€€: €40–€80. €€€€: over €80. Restaurants listed in Fine Dining have at least one Michelin star. Letter/ number codes correspond to map at back of book. Recommended by Die Goldenen Schlüssel Deutschland e.V./U.I.C.H. Les Clefs d’Or.

other incorporating influences from farther afield – are successful experiments in exciting, avantgarde cuisine. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.reinstoff.eu. Schlegelstr. 26c. T: 030.30881214. U Naturkundemuseum, S Nordbahnhof. E2

Rutz

For a complete list of Berlin's Michelin-starred restaurants, visit wheretraveler.com/berlin.

Wine bar, wine shop, and restaurant in one, Rutz offers perfectly paired meals by Chef Marco Müller, whose six-, eight-, and 10-course “Inspiration Menus” combine simple yet diverse ingredients into creative taste sensations. €€€€. Tue–Sun D. www.rutz-weinbar.de. Chausseestr. 8. T: 030.24628760. U Oranienburger Tor. E4

5 – Cinco by Paco Pérez

Skykitchen

FINE DINING

Catalan star chef Paco Pérez’s very first endeavor outside Spain is this Michelin-starred restaurant in Das Stue Hotel. His aim is to tickle all five senses with avant-garde taste experiences that take full advantage of the flavors and ingredients of his home country. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.5-cinco.com. Drakestr. 1. T: 030.3117220. S Tiergarten. C3

Facil Situated in a glass atrium of The Mandala Hotel and ringed by the courtyard’s trees, Facil has mastered understated elegance in both its décor and cuisine. Double-Michelin-starred chef Michael Kempf is particularly masterful with seafood when creating his fine menus. €€€€. Mon–Fri L&D. www.facil.de. Potsdamer Str. 3. T: 030.590051234. S Potsdamer Platz. D3

26. T: 030.25937930. U Kochstraße. E4

ASIAN India Club Indian. Just steps away from the Brandenburg Gate is this luxurious hideaway for high-end North Indian cuisine, boasting an ambience that is both elegant and colorful.A renowned chef flown in from New Delhi lends his masterful touch to the menu of extravagantly spiced specialties. €€€. Daily D.www.india-club-berlin.com. Behrenstr. 72. T: 030.20628610. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Jolly

Part of the andel’s Hotel, Skykitchen brings a welcome touch of luxury to the Lichtenberg district and was accordingly crowned with a Michelin star in 2014. Try chef Alexander Koppe’s four-course “From Berlin to the Sea” regional menu for modern takes on traditional favorites. €€€. Tue–Sat D. www.vi-hotels.com. Landsberger Allee 106. T: 030.4530532620. S Landsberger Allee. H2

Chinese. Just across the water from Museum Island, Jolly’s location couldn’t be better for a tasty Chinese meal in between sightseeing stops. Bring an appetite to try as many of the steamed dim sum dumplings as possible before moving on to the menu’s extensive variety of Sichuan-style and Cantonese dishes. Traditional Peking duck is the house specialty. €€. Daily L&D. www.restaurant-jolly.de. Am Kupfergraben 4–4a. T: 030.20059500. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Tim Raue

Kushinoya

From his humble beginnings growing up in Kreuzberg, Tim Raue has become one of the bestknown culinary names in Berlin. Plumbing the Far East for inspiration, his namesake restaurant serves refined interpretations of Asian cuisine, such as his famed personal take on Peking duck. €€€€. Tue– Sat L&D. www.tim-raue.com. Rudi-Dutschke-Str.

Japanese. This upscale Japanese restaurant makes

fried finger-food taste gourmet. The specialty is kushiage, skewers of delicate morsels like steak cubes, quail eggs, or shiitake mushroom caps that are lightly breaded and fried using a special nongreasy technique. www.kushinoya.de. Bleibtreustr. 6. T: 030.31809897. S Savignyplatz. B4

Golvet Modern European. With its spacious terrace, classy lounge, and sweeping cityscape views, Golvet is much more than a restaurant – it's also a prime spot for taking in the sunset with an aperitif in hand. The ambiance of sleek Nordic-inspired style pairs perfectly with the menu of high-end European fusion dishes €€. Tues–Sat D. www.golvet.de. Potsdamer Str. 58, 8th floor. T: 030.89064222. S Tiergarten. D4

Horváth Austria-born chef Sebastian Frank built a reputation – and earned a Michelin star – with his highly creative, oftentimes minimalist use of seasonal ingredients, from sunchokes to candied parsley root to spruce needles. Wooden interior and lovely outdoor patio. €€€. Wed–Sun D. www.restaurant-horvath.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 44a. T: 030.61289992. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Pauly Saal The chic, hip décor is matched by a menu of equally creative German cuisine, which was awarded a Michelin star in 2013. Meat dishes made from local game are a highlight. €€€. Daily L&D, closed Sun and Mon. www.paulysaal.com. Auguststr. 11–13. T: 030.33006070. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Reinstoff Chef Daniel Achilles didn’t earn two Michelin stars by playing it safe. The two nightly dinner menus at Reinstoff – one focused on regional tastes, the

Riverside Bites The street food trend has taken Berlin by storm in the last few years, and the variety of trucks and vendors hawking delicious international cuisines has exploded. There were two street food vanguards that kicked off the trend, and are still going strong today: First, the Street Food Thursday event held once a week in Kreuzberg's Markthalle Neun (www.markthalleneun.de), and Bite Club. Since launching in 2013, Bite Club has established itself as the city’s most fun food party, bringing together food trucks, DJs, cocktail specials, and a young, lively crowd at a variety of outdoor locations. In addition to traveling around to special events all year 'round, Bite Club returns to their warm-weather base this summer at the Arena complex in Treptow, on a sunny embankment right next to the Spree River. Head over on Friday, 20 July to feast on delicacies like sizzling Jamaican jerk chicken, slow-smoked Alabama-style ribs, Korean chicken wings, cheesy German spätzle noodles, ice cream sandwiches, and much, much more. 20 July, 5–10pm. Arena, Eichenstr. 4. www.biteclub.de

COURTESY OF BITE CLUB.

Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer The Hotel Adlon restaurant boasts two Michelin stars and a well-earned spot in the upper echelon of Berlin’s finest restaurants. No detail is spared in the creation of an unforgettable dining experience. €€€€. Wed–Sat D. www.lorenzadlonesszimmer.de. Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2661196. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

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DINING Kimchi Princess Korean. “Let them eat kimchi,” implores the website

for this hip, popular Korean restaurant. The house specialty is the meaty tabletop barbecue to be split between more diners, which comes with all the traditional side dishes including, of course, kimchi. €€. Daily D. www.kimchiprincess.com. Skalitzer Str. 36. T: 0163.4580203. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. F4

Spindler & Klatt Asian-European fusion. Restaurant, lounge, and

club in one, Spindler & Klatt makes full use of its prime river location. In the summer, the waterside terrace is a memorable spot to enjoy the menu of Pan-Asian dishes, from fine sushi to sizzling tuna steaks and dry-aged Irish steaks hot off the grill. On Fridays and Saturdays, the spot transforms into a club from 23pm. €€€. Daily D. www.spindlerklatt. com. Köpenicker Str. 16–17. T: 030 319881860. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Sra Bua Thai/Japanese. Berlin’s home-grown star chef Tim Raue has done it again. Sra Bua, in the Hotel Adlon, is his latest restaurant to show off his love for the cuisines of Asia. Guests can expect only the most high-caliber Thai and Japanese cooking, and the Raue specialty: curries that are refined yet exploding with flavor. €€€. Tue-Sat D. www.srabuaadlon.de. Behrenstr. 72. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Transit Asian Fusion. The long menu of tapas-style Thai and Indonesian dishes, each just a few euros, allows diners to cobble together a meal

encompassing a wide range of tastes and ingredients. Other location in Rosenthaler Str. 68. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.transit-restaurants.com. Sonntagstr. 28. T: 030.26948415. S Ostkreuz. Off Map

FRENCH Restaurant 1687 French-Mediterranean. Enjoy refined, stylish dining with a side of intriguing history – just a stone's throw from Brandenburg Gate. The restaurant takes its name from the year in which the first Protestant church in Berlin was built on this very site, an important gathering place for French Huguenots fleeing religious persecution. The church was reduced to ruins in WWII, but in its place you can enjoy French-Mediterranean dishes and a top-notch wine selection. €€–€€€. Mon–Sat L&D. www.1687.berlin. Mittelstr. 30. T: 030.20630611. U Friedrichstraße. E3

Duke Restaurant French. The Ellington Hotel’s restaurant is all about

French haute cuisine with modern, creative twists. Both the à la carte options and the menu of monthly specials illustrate the restaurant’s dedication to top-quality meat, seafood, and regional produce. €€€. Mon–Sat L&D. www.duke-restaurant.com. Nürnberger Str. 50-55. T: 030.683154000. U Augsburger Straße. C4

Lamazère Brasserie French. Proof that fine dining needn’t break the

bank is Lamazère Brasserie, a much-lauded dining

spot that earned “Bib Gourmand” status in the revered Michelin Guide, a category commending great food at good value. The three-course dinner menu for €35 will allow you to sample various French food musts, like oeufs cocotte baked eggs, charcuterie platters, duck confit, beef tartare, and tarte tatin for dessert. Whatever the kitchen has cooking that night, every delicacy has that je ne sas quoi that has made French cuisine so famous. €€€. Tue-Sun D. www.lamazere.de. Stuttgarter Platz 18. T: 030.31800712. S Charlottenburg. B4

Le Faubourg Mediterranean. This classy brasserie facing the famed Ku’damm features modern art and a crisp, stylish interior alongside its menu of both classic and updated French cuisine. The recently revamped brasserie in the Hotel Sofitel Kurfürstendamm is the perfect spot for either a posh business lunch or a romantic dinner. Try the flambéed shrimp for a fiery cooking performance right at your table. €€. Daily L&D. www.sofitel.com. Augsburger Str. 41. T: 030.8009990. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Paris Bar French. Many celebrities – including

Madonna, Sophia Loren, and Robert De Niro – have patronized this West Berlin institution over the years. The bistro-style menu includes French classics like oysters and steak-frites, though the legend alone is enough to draw guests. €€€. Daily L&D. www.parisbar.net. Kantstr. 152. T: 030.3138052. S Savignyplatz. C4

THE GRAND TERRACE OPEN DAILY

Make your Reservation: Tel. 030 / 278 909 95 55 Hirtenstr. 4 | 10178 Berlin | www.the-grand-berlin.com

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DINING

GERMAN/AUSTRIAN AIGNER am Gendarmenmarkt Austrian/German. The Mitte restaurant boasts

an elegant interior and a view on stately Gendarmenmarkt. Styled after Vienna's famed coffeehouses, AIGNER adds a local touch with dishes like Brandenburg roast duck. €€€. Daily L&D. www.aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de. Französischestr. 25 T: 030.203751850. U Französische Straße. E3

off the grill in the Hafenkante beer garden and more substantial German-European dishes in the restaurant. Or pre-order a deluxe picnic box and head off to explore the waterside. €€. Daily L&D, breakfast Sat & Sun. www.hafenkueche.de. Zur alten Flussbadeanstalt 5. T: 030.42219926. S Bahnhof Rummelsburg, then Tram 21. Off map

Hofbräuhaus

There’s more to the menu than just grilled meat, though the steaks are indeed excellent. Lobster cocktail, ceviche, and oysters are just a few other additions to the fine menu. €€€. Daily D. www.grillroyal.com. Friedrichstr. 105b. T: 030.28879288. S Friedrichstraße. E3

Käfer Dachgarten-Restaurant of the German Bundestag German. The Reichstag is for more

German. An Oktoberfest

was first constructed in the 1800s, when it served as a tollhouse for passing steamboats, then painstakingly restored after WWII. Today, it’s a canal-side restaurant serving elevated German cuisine created from the finest regional ingredients. €€–€€€. Tues–Sat D. www.altes-zollhaus-berlin.de. Carl-Herz-Ufer 30. T: 030.6923300. U Prinzenstraße. E4

than sightseeing. Thanks to the Berliner Weisse is a pale atmosphere for the whole culinary team behind Käfer, it’s also ale brewed only in the family 365 days a year. This a fine dining destination. On the roof capital and usually restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, of the famed landmark, Käfer boasts served with a shot of and dinner in typical Bavarian style, splendid views and refined, modern syrup. alongside live music, waiters in German cuisine. Advance reservations traditional costume, and the traditional required. Due to security precautions, Hofbräu beer, brewed in Munich since the each guest must provide official photo 1700s. Expect dumplings and roasted ham hock at I.D. upon entry. €€€. Daily B, L, D. www.feinkosttheir popular Sunday brunch. €. kaefer.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030 2262990. U www.hofbraeu-wirtshaus.de. Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 30. Bundestag, T: 030 679665520. U + S Alexanderplatz. F2 S Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3.

Borchardt

The Grand

Altes Zollhaus German. This quaint, cottage-style building

German/French. A favorite hobnobbing spot

German. The sophisticated supper club, with origins

of the rich and famous, Borchardt is popular for both its food (especially the schnitzel) as well as the opportunity to see and be seen. €€. Daily L&D. www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Französische Str. 47. T: 030.81886262. U Französische Straße. E3

reaching back to 1842, boasts an American grill that makes its international array of steaks among the best in town. The upstairs lounge attracts a decadent late-night scene. €€€. Mon–Fri L, Daily D. www.the-grand-berlin.com. Hirtenstraße 4. T: 030.278909555. Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Hafenküche

Grill Royal

German. An idyllic spot right on the banks of the

German/French. A beloved destination of

Spree River. Enjoy cool drinks and tasty snacks

Mitte’s well-dressed creative scenesters.

Maximilians German. Maximilians recreates the feel of a cozy Bavarian beer hall with hearty food and plentiful beer. Meaty specialties include pork knuckle served with dumplings and sauerkraut, freshly baked pretzels, and the tempting “Munich sausage parade.” From the four kinds of Paulaner beer on tap to the warm hospitality, Maximilians goes to great lengths to transport a piece of Bavaria to the heart of Mitte. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.maximiliansrestaurant.de. Friedrichstr. 185–190. T: 030.20450559. U Stadtmitte. E3

Nante Eck German. With delightful dishes from Berlin’s

traditional cuisine and a menu that changes every month, the Nante Eck restaurant offers a refined cuisine made with fresh local ingredients. Specialties include extra-big currywurst and Flammkuchen pies. Very long beer menu. €. Daily L&D. www.nante-eck.de. Unter den Linden 35. T: 030.22487257. U Französische Straße. F2

Neumond German. The sight of Neumond’s historic and

One of China's most famous dishes, Peking duck dates back to at least the Ming Dynasty, when it was a regular star on imperial court menus. But there's no need to hop on a China-bound flight for an authentic taste of this regal specialty. Head instead to the Mitte Chinese restaurant Jolly, across the river from Museum Island, which serves what is undoubtedly the best Peking duck in town. No corners are cut in the dish's laborious preparation method, which includes soaking, glazing, air-drying, and finally roasting in a custom, round oven to ensure moist, flavorful meat and the crispiest skin. Then the fun part begins: Each diner rolls up slices of the succulent meat in thin wheat pancakes, together with julienned cucumber and green onions and a swiping of salty-sweet sauce. Though most restaurants require advance notice to prepare Peking duck, Jolly always has it fresh and ready to go. Choose between an appetizer-sized portion or a whole bird, which will be sliced right at your table. Round out the meal with the menu's extensive selection of Cantonese and Sichuan dishes. And keep an eye out for the artwork on the wall by Chinese artist Ai Weiwei, a regular at the Jolly table. Am Kupfergraben 4. T: 030 20059500. www.restaurant-jolly.de

Paris-Moskau French/German. This rustic house, built in 1898 and lucky to survive two World Wars, was a Russian restaurant in two of its past lives. Today, it's an upscale destination seamlessly incorporating French, German, and Russian culinary influences. €€€. MonFri L&D, Sat D only. www.paris-moskau.de. Alt-Moabit 141. T: 030.3942081. S+U Hauptbahnhof. D3

Renger-Patzsch German. All dark wood and white tablecloths, the look at Renger-Patzsch is as simple and elegant as is its menu of refined German-Austrian cuisine. Meat dishes are a specialty, as are the Alsatian Flammkuchen, bases of thin dough baked with topping combos like apple and blood sausage. €€. Daily D. www.renger-patzsch.com. Wartburgstr. 54. T: 030.7842059. U Eisenacher Straße. C5

Berlin's Best Peking Duck

refined counter is a hint at the restaurant’s simple elegance – in both interior design and menu, which includes a vast selection of courses; classics and specials. And for everyone with a sweet tooth: There’s a white chocolate mousse on the dessert menu. To top it all off: A bar with a variety of drinks to choose from. Borsigstr. 28, Mitte. Daily L and Tue-Sun D.www.office@neumond-restaurant.de. T: 030.2857505. S Nordbahnhof. E2

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www.1687.berlin Restaurantschiff Capt'n Schillow German. Climb aboard this quaint boat restaurant at the western edge of Tiergarten to enjoy classic German fish delicacies like cured herring, grilled pike perch fillets, and North Sea shrimp, plus a relaxing brunch menu on weekends. Book in advance to take a chartered cruise through the surrounding waterways. €€. Daily L&D, breakfast Sat & Sun. Closed Mon–Tue Oct–Dec. www.capt-schillow.de. Str. des 17. Juni 113, next to Charlottenburger Tor. T: 030.31505015. S Tiergarten. C3

Rotisserie Weingrün German/European. Overlooking the canal on

the southern edge of Museum Island, this elegant-casual restaurant is a favorite of many local gastronomes. The highlight is the huge, upright flame grill, which prepares steaks, ribs, pork belly, and rotisserie chicken to perfection. Try the octopus salad or flambéed salmon for a special treat. €€–€€€. Mon–Sat D.www.rotisserieweingruen.de. Gertraudenstr. 10. T: 030.20621900. U Spittelmarkt. F3.

Schneeweiss

German. The name of this restaurant and the edgy, post-industrial interior remind diners that the space was once an electricity station. Chef Matthias Gleiss has edge, too – he was named Newcomer of the Year in 2011 by a jury of top Berlin chefs. Refined yet exciting German food is his calling card. €€€. Mon– Sat D. www.restaurant-volt.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 21. T: 030.61074033. U Kottbusser Tor. G4

Zeit für Brot German. Bread is a cornerstone of German food culture. Zeit für Brot—“Time for Bread”—is not only a bakery selling organic, artisanal German breads baked in-house, it’s also a café serving things like wholesome sandwiches, quiche “muffins,” and sweet treats like cinnamon buns. €. Daily B&L. www.zeitfuerbrot.com. Alte Schönhauser Str. 4. T: 030.28046780. U Weinmeisterstraße, U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

FriedrichEbert-Platz Scheidemannstr.

Str. des 17. Juni

Pariser Platz

Bahnhof Friedrichstraße

Dorotheenstraße Schadowstr.

Volt

Fine french inspired cuisine in an elegant ambiance.

Wilhelmstraße

German/Austrian. With a crisply white interior reminiscent of snow-capped Alpine peaks, Schneeweiss serves classy takes on Austrian cuisine. Traditional dishes like schnitzel and goulash with Serviettenknödel dumplings share the menu with rotating seasonal offerings. €€. Mon–Fri D, Sat–Sun B, L, D. www.schneeweiss-berlin.de. Simplonstr. 16. T: 030.29049704. S+U Warschauer Straße. H3

SPRE

Mittelstraße

Unter den Linden

Neustädtischer Kirchplatz / Mittelstraße 30 / 10117 Berlin T. 0049 30 20630611 / info@1687.berlin open from 12:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m. / Sunday closed

in y t i l a t i p s o h Bavarian n! i l r e B f o t r a the he

Zillemarkt German. Zillemarkt is steeped in old-school Berliner charm. For a taste, try the “Berliner Allerlei” platter for two, with cabbage rolls, mushy peas, fried potatoes, and no less than five kinds of meat. €. Daily B, L, D. Bleibtreustr. 48a. T: 030.8817040. S Savignyplatz. B4

ITALIAN Barist Italian. Healthful, filling breakfasts, quick business lunches, happy-hour cocktails, and dinner with friends in the red-bricked arches under the trains at S Hackescher Markt station. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.barist.de. Am Zwirngraben 13. T: 030.24722613. S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

Bocca di Bacco Italian. This high-level restaurant offers

modern Italian cuisine prepared with

Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 30 10178 Berlin 030 - 67 96 65 52 0 reservierung@berlin-hofbraeu.de www.hofbraeu-wirtshaus.de/en/Berlin/ www.wheretraveler.com 51

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DINING top-quality ingredients, accompanied by excellent wines. Contemporary furnishings and elegant atmosphere. www.boccadibacco.de. €€–€€€. Daily L&D. Friedrichstr. 167-168. T: 030.20672828. U Französische Straße. E3

Café Aroma

SOMMERAMWASSER.DE

Italian. A longstanding neighborhood favorite, this Italian restaurant believes in pairing highquality food with a relaxed, homey atmosphere. The Sunday brunch buffet, served from 11am, is a generous mix of irresistible cold and warm Italian dishes. €€. Mon–Fri D, Sat L&D, Sun B, L, D. www.cafe-aroma.de. Hochkirchstr. 8. T: 030.7825821. S+U Yorckstraße. D5

Der Goldene Hahn Italian. A cozy atmosphere, adept chefs, and occasional celebrity sightings make this a popular spot. The changing menu of creative daily specials elevates Der Goldene Hahn well above the run-ofthe-mill Italian restaurants that abound in Berlin. €€. Daily D. www.goldenerhahn.de. Pücklerstr. 20. T: 030.6188098. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

I Due Forni Italian. The atmosphere at this expansive pizza hall is on the raucous side and the service is notoriously surly, but that doesn’t keep the pizzaloving crowds at bay. The generously sized thincrust concoctions are famed around the city. €. Daily L&D. Schönhauser Allee 12. T: 030.44017333. U Senefelderplatz. F2

YOUR SPOT BY THE WATER!

Italofritzen Italian. Everyone’s favorite food: traditional

Italian pizza, homemade pasta, fresh mozzarella and tomato, good ham, cappuccino, and cornetti pastries done just the way you love it! www.friedrichs106.de. Friedrichstr. 105. T: 030.40040600. S+U Friedrichstraße E3

MIDDLE EASTERN Glass Modern Arabic. A 2013 addition to the west-end

gourmet scene, Glass is the baby of Israeli chef Gal Ben Moshe. Guests in the sleek, modern space get wowed with an innovative tasting menu that does magical things with traditional Arabic ingredients like preserved lemon, sumac, and lamb. €€€. Daily D, closed Sun–Mon. www.glassberlin.de. Uhlandstr. 195. T: 030.54710861. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

Modern Hellenic dishes Our meat is produced by speciesappropriate animal husbandry – Fresh Mediterranean fish – Select wines from various regions of Greece – Exclusive olive oil from the island of Lesbos – Groups welcome upon request

Restaurant Z Friesenstraße 12 10965 Berlin-Kreuzberg reservation +49 (0)30 692 27 16 open daily from 5 pm www.restaurant-z.de find us on google maps

Neni

Modern German cuisine Wichertstraße 55 10439 Berlin-Prenzlauer Berg phone +49 (0)30 40 04 57 55 open Tue – Sat restaurant: 18:00 – 24:00 kitchen: 18:00 – 22:30 www.walid-speisemeisterei.de

Mediterranean. From its location in a glass penthouse atop the 25Hours Hotel, casual-hip Neni offers panoramic views and a fresh, creative fusion of Mediterannean, Middle Eastern, and North African culinary flavors. Many dishes on the diverse menu can be ordered in various sizes, with the goal of making sharing a part of the meal experience. €€. Daily L&D. www.25hours-hotels.com. Budapester Str. 40. T: 030.120221200. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

OTHER Adana Grillhouse Turkish. This all-encompassing menu of Turkish dishes allows for a full on Turkish experience – sights, smells and tastes to reflect the cuisine that has found its way into the heart and soul of Berlin. A high priority for Adana Grillhaus is to ensure a familiar and welcoming atmosphere. Second location in Friedrichshain-Kreuzberg at Manteuffelstr. 86. €€ Daily L&D.

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www.adanagrillhaus.de. Skalitzerstr. 105. T: 030.82409600. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

Balikci Ergün Turkish. This quirky, hole-in-the-wall restaurant, with the look and feel of a fish market, serves fresh seafood the traditional Turkish way. Whole fried sardines and grilled fillets of the catch of the day are served simply with lush salads, lemon wedges, and warm Turkish bread. €€. Daily D. Lüneburger Str. 382. T: 030.3975737. S Bellevue. D3

Grand Rocka International. Inside, the restaurant takes over the historic arched space under S Hackescher Markt station, featuring a grand old wooden bar that lives up to the restaurant’s name, and out front, the terrace spills out across the busy Platz. The large international menu ranges from steaks to pizzas to burgers. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.grandrocka.de. Am Zwirngraben 6–7. T: 030.24638606. F2

Hasir Turkish. The little Turkish grill house rumored to be the birthplace of the döner kebab in the 1970s has since expanded to six locations around the city. The original restaurant near Kottbusser Tor is a very popular spot for trying the full spectrum of what Turkish cuisine has to offer – far beyond the kebab. €€. Daily L&D. www.hasir.de. Adalbertstr. 10. T: 030.6142373. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Experience selected Szechuan and Cantonese foods in modern ambience The best Peking duck in town

Rio Grande

Am Kupfergraben 4 / 4A 10117 Berlin daily opened 12:00-23:00

International. This waterside restaurant serves

an extensive selection of fine German and international dishes, from goulash to grilled fish and a variety of fresh salads, all in a classy setting. €€. Daily L&D. www.riogrande-berlin.de. May-Ayim-Ufer 9. T: 030. 61074981. U Schlesisches Tor. F4

Vivolo Olé Spanish. Authentic Spanish cuisine at Hackescher Markt, including a wide selection of tapas, paellas, grilled meats and fresh fish dishes. Vegetarian and vegan options available. www.vivolo.de. Am Zwirngraben 11-12. T: 030.24631933. S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

Z Modern Greek There's nothing like high-quality Mediterranean cuisine, and this restaurant prides itself on giving a modern twist to Greece's traditional dishes. The free-range meat, organic wines, and the many other high-quality products are imported directly from the southern European country. €€. Daily L&D. www.rstaurant-z.de. Friesenstr. 12. T: 030.6922716. S+U Schönhauser Allee. F1

Reservation: 030 - 200 595 00 www.restaurant-jolly.de

Come in!

Enjoy Bavarian Cosiness, German Cuisine and International Soccer. 1.–15.7. Public Viewing

VEGETARIAN/VEGAN Lucky Leek Vegetarian. It’s not luck that makes Lucky Leek so good, but rather a dedication to creating top-notch gourmet cuisine that is also 100-percent vegan and incorporates international tastes. The small but comprehensive menu changes regularly. €€. Wed–Sun D. www.lucky-leek.de. U Senefelderplatz. F2

Lowkal Superfood The first low-carb, superfood café and restaurant in Berlin. No additional sugar used here, only fresh, seasonal produce full of all the vitamins, minerals, fructose, and fiber your body needs to power through the day without feeling lethargic. www.lowkal.berlin. Pfalzburger Str. 72A. T: 030.88720836. U Hohenzollernplatz. B4

Friedrichstraße 185–190 maximilians-berlin.de

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ENTERTAINMENT | THE GUIDE

Germany fans at the Fanmeile. Below: The Olympiastadion.

World Cup Fever Solveig Steinhardt likes to be in good company when watching the World Cup. Mercedes-Benz showroom at Salzufer, will be hosting football fans of all stripes, offering a classy yet wild atmosphere. A calmer way to enjoy the games is on a neighborhood Platz while savoring a pizza or a plate of falafel. Many dining areas around the city have set up TVs so spectators can cheer on their favorite teams while eating. Winterfeldtplatz, Kollwitzplatz and Savignyplatz are three of my favorite squares where you can experience surround-sound Cup atmosphere. Sports bars and beer gardens are another way to experience the game while sipping a cold beer: Luise in Dahlem (Königin-LuiseStraße 40, www.luise-dahlem.de), Prater in

Prenzlauer Berg (Kastanienallee 7, www. pratergarten.de), and Café am neuen See in Tiergarten (Lichtensteinallee 2, www. cafeamneuensee.de) for example, screen each and every game under the trees, while the post-industrial Kulturbrauerei complex will be turning into a pseudo-stadium for the whole duration of the World Cup, with maxi-screens and barbecue snacks as well as indoor options in the event of rain. To combine your soccer fever with some sightseeing, book a table at the top of the TV Tower on Alexanderplatz. For the first time ever, Berlin’s number-one icon will be setting up screens, so you can watch the games while admiring the city from 200 meters up.

Every four years, people all over the world show their national pride by cheering for their favorite country at the FIFA World Cup, the soccer world’s most important tournament. If you can’t make it to Russia this year, your second-best option is to go watch your favorite team on screen with lots of fellow supporters. Here are my favorite spots for a beer and a game. Made especially for those who love stadium-like crowds, the stretch of Straße der 17. Juni running between Brandenburg Gate and the Siegessäule, also known as the Fanmeile, will be transforming into a soccer arena with large screens broadcasting all the Germany games, plus the eighth-, quarter-, semifinals, and of course the final on 15 July. Entry is free and the area is open from 1pm on the day of the game, featuring an all-round party vibe with stands selling food, drinks, and World Cup memorabilia. For a similarly overwhelming experience, Mercedes Welt (www.mercedes-benz-berlin.de), the 54 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U LY 2018

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GAULTIER!

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ENTERTAINMENT

BALLET & OPERA

Staatsoper Unter Den Linden

A 1960s décor-free box of acoustic magic. Director and conductor Donald Runnicles puts together rich programs with lots of Verdi, Rossini, and Mozart. 1, 4, 7 Jul: La Gioconda (Ponchielli). 3 Jul: Faust (Gounod). 6 Jul: Il viaggio a Reims (Rossini). www.deutscheoperberlin.de. T: 030.34384343. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Berlin's historic opera house reopened in 2017 after lengthy renovations. Barenboim's perfect productions range from Baroque operas to contemporary premieres 1, 3 Jul: Orfeo ed Euridice (Gluck). 2 Jul: Macbeth (Verdi). 7, 10, 11, 13, 15 Jul: Ti vedo, ti sento, mi perdo (Sciarrino). 8, 12, 14, 15 Jul: L’Incoronazione di Poppea (Monteverdi). www.staatsoper-berlin.de. T: 030.2035540. Unter den Linden 7. U Alexanderplatz. E3

Komische Oper

Staatsballett

Deutsche Oper

Young and daring opera productions won this theater the title of Opera House of the Year 2013. Australian intendant Barrie Kosky is also the artistic director of some of the performances, with mesmerizing results. 1 Jul: Blaubart (Offenbach). 2, 5 Jul: Carmen (Bizet). 3, 7 Jul: My Fair Lady (Loewe). 6 Jul: Die Nase (Shostakovich). Komische Oper Festival 2018: 10 Jul: Semele (Händel). 11 Jul: Die Gezeichten (Shreker). 12 Jul: Pelleas et Melisande. 13 Jul: Blaubart (Offebach). 14 Jul: Die Nase: (Shostakovich). 15 Jul: Anatevka. 24–29 Jul: Che Malambo (dance and Rhythm from Argentina). www.komische-oper-berlin.de. Behrenstr. 55-57. T: 030.47997400. U Französische Straße. E3

Berlin’s ballet company currently performs at various locations. www.staatsballett-berlin.de. T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3

CLASSICAL CONCERTS Berliner Dom Berlin’s main cathedral presents a plethora of sacred music concerts year round. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269136. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

DANCE AND

SUMMERTIME! MUSIC UNDER THE STARS OLYMPIASTADION 17 Jul: Ed Sheeran 2018

WALDBÜHNE 5 Jul: Pearl Jam 14 Jul: Nick Cave & The Bad Seeds 25 Jul: Depeche Mode

CITADEL MUSIC FESTIVAL 2 Jul: Nine Inch Nails 19 Jul: Billy Idol 25 Jul: Jack Johnson 29 Jul: Joan Baez

Hochschule für Musik Hans Eisler One of Berlin’s most prestigious music academies. Its students are members of important orchestras, choirs, and bands, and the stage presents hundreds of concerts every year – many of which are free. www.hfm-berlin.de. Charlottenstr. 55. T: 030.688305700. U Stadtmitte. E3

Chamber Music Hall of the Philharmonie Part of the Philharmonie, this concert hall presents daily chamber-music concerts and free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays. Summer break. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3 This charismatic 1821 concert hall is the base theater of the Konzerthausorchester, but other orchestras and soloists grace its stage regularly. 1 Jul. The Konzerthausorchester (cond. Fischer) and pianist Elisabeth Leonskaja perform Mozart and Beethoven. www.konzerthaus.de. Gendarmenmarkt. T: 030.203092101. U Hausvogteiplatz. E3

Philharmonie

Queen Of Folk Few artists have dedicated their entire lives and careers to music, human rights, and social activism as Joan Baez has. Her lifelong work against violence and injustice speaks from the universality of her music, and in the six decades since she first picked up a guitar and heard Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. speak, she has become an icon and voice of peace. As part of the European leg of her Fare Thee Well tour, promoting her first studio album in a decade, Baez will be playing at the Spandau Citadel on 29 July. Am Juliusturm 64. www.zitadelleberlin.de. 030.3549440.

The iconic concert venue is home to the acclaimed Berliner Philharmoniker, currently led by Sir Simon Rattle, but also hosts other ensembles and soloists. Free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays 1pm. Summer break. www.berlinerphilharmoniker.de. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Pierre Boulez Saal Berlin’s newest concert hall is part of the Barenboim-Said Akademie, an institution dedicated to bringing together talented young musicians from Arab, Israeli, and Christian backgrounds. A unique, modern design by the venerable Frank Gehry design ensures stunning acoustics, and co-founder Daniel Barenboim makes regular appearances on stage. www.boulezsaal.de. Französische Str. 33D. T: 030 47997411. U Französische Straße. E3

Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin Injecting new expression into 19th- and 20thcentury classical works under the lead of Marek Janowski, the oldest German radio orchestra with its 103 members has won a place in the top tier of European concert orchestras. www.rsb-online.de. Tickets: 030.20298715.

Nine Inch Nails.

BALLET & CLASSICAL BOTANISCHE NACHT 21 Jul, Botanische Nacht

ANATEVKA 15 Jul, Komische Oper

L'INCORONAZIONE DI POPPEA 15 Jul, Staatsoper

CLASSIC OPEN AIR 5–9 Jul, Gendarmenmarkt

THEATER & MUSICALS THE ONE: GRAND SHOW Until 5 Jul, Friedrichstadt-Palast

BLUE MAN GROUP All month, Bluemax Theater

FINALE All month, Chamäleon Theater

THE 12 TENORS Until 15 Jul, Tipi am Kanzleramt

AFFE Until 18 Jul, Neuköllner Oper

NINE INCH NAILS: PHOTO BY JOHN CRAWFORD BERLIN; JOAN BAEZ: PHOTO COURTESY OF PR.

Konzerthaus

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EXPERIMENTAL SPACES HAU (Hebbel am Ufer) Cutting-edge shows and hip performances at this off-theater and cultural point. www.hebbel-amufer.de. Stresemannstr. 29; Tempelhofer Ufer 10; Hallesches Ufer 32. T: 030.2590040. U Hallesches Tor. E4

Radialsystem V Once a turn-of-the-century pumping station for the Berlin Water Services, this creative space is now a cultural center and idea factory that hosts performances of all kinds, from classical concerts to jazz jam sessions to contemporary dance. www.radialsystem.de. Holzmarktstr. 33. T: 030.288788588. S+U Jannowitzbrücke. G3

Sophiensaele Choreographer Sasha Waltz’s center for avantgarde dance, contemporary theater (mainly in German), music, and experimental performance artists. www.sophiensaele.com. Sophienstr. 18. T: 030.2835266. U Weinmeisterstraße, S Hackescher Markt, S Oranienburger Straße. E2

MOVIE THEATERS CinemaxX Potsdamer Platz Multiplex cinema. Most of the movies are screened in their original language, with or without subtitles. www.cinemaxx.de. Potsdamer Str. 5. T: 040.80806969. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Cinestar Sony Center The latest Hollywood blockbusters, in English, every day. www.cinestar.de. Potsdamer Str. 4. T: 030.26066400. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Odeon This old-school single-screen cinema was Berlin’s first English-language theater and still screens both cult movies and new releases. Hauptstr. 116. T: 030.78704019. S Schöneberg. C5

ROCK, POP, JAZZ A-Trane

Komische Oper Festival July 1O—15

Since 1992, this intimately sized but important venue (it was named Best German Jazzclub in 2011) has welcomed both emerging and A-list talent, including Wynton Marsalis, Herbie Hancock, and Diana Krall. Daily from 8pm, free entry Sunday after 10:30pm. www.a-trane.de. Pestalozzistr. 105. T: 030.3132550. S Savignyplatz. B3/B4

Arena The enormous former bus depot now presents events as diverse as rap concerts and roller derby and features a cocktail lounge and the Badeschiff, a heated swimming pool floating on the Spree River. www.arena-berlin.de. Eichenstr. 4. T: 030.5332030. S Treptower Park, U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Columbiahalle/C-Halle The multi-function event space hosts some of today’s most popular pop and rock acts. www. columbia-theater.de. Columbiadamm 13-21. T: 030.69812814. U Platz der Luftbrücke. E5

Lido A former cinema turned club and concert venue for rock-indie lovers. Check website for program. www.lido-berlin.de. Cuvrystr. 7. T: 030.69566840. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

(030) 47 99 74 00

Buy y ticke our now!ts

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ENTERTAINMENT

Lights... Camera... Berlin! A city with as much history as Berlin makes for a perfect backdrop to some memorable movies. From classics to recent Hollywood blockbusters, here are some must-see German and English films, from oldest to newest, that star Berlin.

BERLIN: SYMPHONY OF A GREAT CITY (1927) This black-and-white beauty of a silent film depicts a day in the life of a bygone Berlin – a must-see for history fans.

CABARET (1972)

WINGS OF DESIRE (1987) This gloomily beautiful love story by German heavyweight director Wim Wenders is like an ode to West Berlin. One iconic scene features the main character atop the Siegessäule column in Tiergarten.

RUN LOLA RUN (1998) This runaway (pun intended) international success takes its viewers on a heartthumping sprint all over town. One key location: the red-bricked Oberbaum Bridge.

THE BOURNE SUPREMACY (2004) Trained assassin Jason Bourne is chased all over the city in this thriller. Look for major cameos by the Friedrichstraße S-Bahn bridge and Alexanderplatz, for example.

THE LIVES OF OTHERS (2006) This Oscar winner does a stellar job illustrating life in East Berlin, with scenes shot in the former Stasi headquarters in Lichtenberg and the Volksbühne theater in Mitte, for example.

Peter Fox’s City Apes When Berlin hip hop singer Peter Fox released his album Stadtaffe in 2008, the whole nation fell in love with his brand of German-language mix of soul and hip hop. His song Alles neu, with a video featuring an marching band of chimps walking around the German capital, became a symbol of Berlin city life. This month, Neukölln’s experimental theater, the Neuköllner Oper (p. 59), will be using Fox’s legendary lyrics and music to tell the story of a young man on his way home after a night of excessive partying. Can’t possibly get any more Berlin than this! Affe is on until 18 July.

Estrel Festival Center Berlin

Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin

Enjoy an evening with the world’s top look-andsound-alike artists and taste a three-course dinner during Stars In Concert, a live performance of legends like Elvis, Abba, Johnny Cash, Buddy Holly, and more. www.stars-in-concert.de. Wed– Sat 8:30pm, Sun 7pm. Sonnenallee 225. €20, from €60 with dinner. Off Map

A massive arena for world-touring pop concerts and sports events, including those of Berlin’s professional ice hockey team, the Eisbären. www. mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de. Mühlenstr. 12–30. T: 030.2060708899. U Warschauer Straße. G4

KulturBrauerei The early-1900s brewery complex now houses various restaurants and art spaces, with a rich combination of programs, as well as a very popular street-food market most Sundays. www.kulturbrauerei.de. Schönhauser Allee 36. T: 030.44352614. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Quasimodo One of Berlin’s historic music cafés. Diversified program with many musical styles, from jazz to blues, R&B to soul. www.quasimodo.de. Kantstr. 12a. T: 030.31804560. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

SO36 The heart of Kreuzberg’s radical scene. The Dead Kennedys and Die Toten Hosen played here a few

COURTESY OF NEUKÖLLNER OPER

This cinematic classic starring Liza Minnelli, depicting the famous era of swinging 1930s Berlin as the Nazis were rising to power, was filmed in both the capital and southern Germany.

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ENTERTAINMENT times, while today’s program ranges from punk and hard rock concerts to flea markets and tea afternoons. www.so36.de. Oranienstr. 190. T: 030.61401306. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Tempodrom This large concert building resembling a circus tent – and situated on the former grounds of the now-gone Anhalter Bahnhof – hosts an array of events, from classical concerts and pop-rock productions to mixed martial arts and dance. www. tempodrom.de. Möckernstr. 10. Toll number: 0186.554111. S Anhalter Bahnhof. E4

THEATER, CABARET & MUSICALS

combination of music, art, pantomime, and comedy. The few spoken words are in English. Shows take place almost every night. Check website for info. www.stage-entertainment.de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3 An old ballroom where audiences can experience a young genre that mixes acrobatics with music, dance, and visual arts. All month: Finale. www. chamaeleonberlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 40/41. T: 030.4000590. S Hackescher Markt. E2

Friedrichstadt-Palast Berlin

Schaubühne

Chamäleon Variete

One of Berlin’s few preserved pre-WWII variety venues offers an international, high-caliber program of musicals, cabaret, and concerts in an elegant hall from the 1920s. www.admiralspalast. de. Friedrichstr. 101. T: 030.47997499. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

this is Berlin's most spectacular theater and a must-see acccording to The New York Times. Take in special effects and glitzy Vegas-style live shows. Until 5 Jul: The One Grand Show, with 100 artists and acrobats, is a dreamlike journey through time in search of the one we love. www.palast.berlin Friedrichstr. 107. T: 030.23262326. U Friedrichstraße. E3

Bar Jeder Vernunft

Kookaburra

A 1912 tent housing song-and-dance shows, comedy, and cabaret. Many shows in German only. www.bar-jeder-vernunft.de. Schaperstr. 24. T: 030.8831582. U Spichernstraße. C4

Tuesday is English Comedy Night at this popular comedy club, and there’s also an English intermezzo late on Saturday nights. www.comedyclub.de. Schönhauser Allee 184. T: 030.48623186. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Blue Man Group The unmistakable Blue Man Group has its own permanent theater, the Bluemax Theater, where the blue-domed performers present an energetic

Neuköllner Oper Berlin’s fourth and recently opened opera house. While the others commit themselves to interpretations of known works, the Neuköllner Oper invents new pieces inspired by everyday life in its own unglamorous neighborhood. Until 18 Jul: Affe. A theatrical rendition of a Berlin night. With English surtitles. www.neukoellneroper. de. Karl-Marx-Str. 131 – 133. T: 030 68890777. U-Karl-Marx-Straße. Off map.

MUST SEE With the biggest stage in the world,

Admiralspalast

www.quatschcomedyclub.de. Friedrichstr. 107. Toll number: 01806.999000969. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Quatsch Comedy Club This popular club hosts frequent stand-up comedy shows and a regular English-language night.

THE 12 TENORS MILLENNIUM TOUR

A popular West Berlin theater in the 1960 and 1970s, this Ku’damm performance venue still hosts some interesting productions. Check website for program. www.schaubuehne.de. Kurfürstendamm 153. U Adenauerplatz. C4

Tipi am Kanzleramt The big tent in the Tiergarten has a vast program of musicals, magic, cabaret, dance, and theater. Many shows are in German. Until 15 Jul: The 12 Tenors. www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de. Große Querallee. T: 030.39066550. U Bundestag. D3

Wintergarten Varieté This sumptuous variety theater that has earned a reputation for its revitalized Vaudeville-inspired productions, as well as world-famous acts. www. wintergarten-berlin.de. Potsdamer Str. 96. T: 030.588433. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

July 20 to September 23

June 26 to July 15

Tickets 030. 39 06 65 50 // www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de www.wheretraveler.com 59

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NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE

Top right: Freiluftkino Kreuzberg; Inset, above: Fischerhütte; thefrom rooftop This photoThis andphoto: left: stills the of Klunkerkranich; Inset, below: Zollpackhof. Jewish Film Festival.

Berlin’s Best Summertime Beer Gardens The classically sprawling, leafy German Biergarten imagined by visitors belongs more properly to Munich than to Berlin. Yet the capital’s beer gardens, like the city itself, have their own strut—and locals flock to them in droves anytime weather permits. Edgy slices of graffitied Berlin might poke up among long tables, tall lagers, and shady trees. Others are so green and idyllic that it’s easy to forget you’re in one of Europe’s largest cities. A few sadly stick to bland industrial beer at tourist-bilking prices, but we'll ignore those. Accounting for atmosphere, kid-friendliness, price, and beer quality, here are our top picks. Hugging the River Spree, five minutes walk south of Hauptbahnhof, Zollpackhof (Elisabeth-Abegg-Str. 1, www.zollpackhof.de) ticks all the boxes. Wave at boat tours cruising by while cooling in the shade of a huge, ancient chestnut. Snacks lean Bavarian with appearances by currywurst and pizza. For kids there is a playground, ice cream, and room to run; for grownups, Augustiner beer pours from spigoted wooden barrels.

Out of the way, in Berlin’s southwest corner, but worth the trek, Fischerhütte (Fischerhüttenstr. 136, fischerhuette-berlin.de) is 15 minutes walk from either the Krumme Lanke U-Bahn or Mexikoplatz S-Bahn station. You might bring your bathing suit, since a main attraction here is the Schlachtensee swimming hole. Other features include a large playground, soothing lake views, smoked mackerel, fresh-baked pretzels, and Augustiner on tap. In the Kreuzberg neighborhood and just as unconventional, über-casual beer garden Golgatha (Dudenstr. 40, www.golgathaberlin.de) features comfortable lounge chairs, cushioned sofas, a charming interior, and a rooftop deck—the latter with overhead views

of Viktoriapark’s large playground. The sausage stall is popular, while the bar features a wider range of beers than most, including the Golgatha house pils, brewed at Hohenthanner in Bavaria. Not a beer garden in the typical sense, though they have beer and they like to garden, Klunkerkranich (Karl-Marx-Str. 66, www.neukoellnarcaden.de/shop/ klunkerkranich) is a multifaceted open-air bar that sits atop the Neukölln Arcaden shopping mall. To get there, take the elevator to parking deck 5, then walk up the ramp to the 6th deck. Your reward is a relaxed vibe and sweeping views of the Berlin skyline. Fresh, unpasteurized Pilsner Urquell from the tank—trucked straight from the brewery in Bohemia—is a beautiful bonus.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF KLUNKERKRANICH, FISCHERHÜTTE, ZOLLPACKHOF.

Our resident beer guru Joe Stange helps you avoid the tourist traps.

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NIGHTLIFE

BEER Ankerklause A canal-side tavern where drinks come with beautiful views of passing boats. Daily from 10am (Mon from 4pm). www.ankerklause.de. Kottbusser Damm 104. T: 030.6935649. U Schönleinstraße. F4

The Grand

A pleasant lakeside beer garden inside the verdant Tiergarten park. Open daily from breakfast onwards. www.cafeamneuensee.de. Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930. S Tiergarten. C3

A former school building has been transformed into a super-hip restaurant, bar and club all mixed into one. Enjoy top cocktails and a selection of cigars on the green leather couches in the 1920s-inspired bar, then dance the night away in the chic, intimate club. www.the-grand-berlin.com. Hirtenstr. 4. T: 030.2789099555. S+U Alexanderplatz. B4

Club der Visionäre

Green Door Cocktail Bar

Café am Neuen See and Biergarten

This canal-side boat-shack attracts young crowds till early morning and beyond. Daily from 2pm until very late (from noon Sat & Sun). www.clubdervisionaere.com. Am Flutgraben 1. T: 030.69518942. U Schlesisches Tor, S Treptower Park. G4

One of Berlin’s most relaxing cocktail bars, with a retro style and lots of kitsch décor. The cocktail list is long and the barman famous. Daily 6pm–3am (Fri–Sat until 4am). www.greendoor.de. Winterfeldtstr. 50. T: 030.2152515. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

Dicke Wirtin

The Unique Bar An international drink menu with 200+ different cocktails, served to a jazz soundtrack. Mon–Sat from 4pm. www.esplanade.de. Sheraton Berlin, Grand Hotel Esplanade Berlin, Lützowufer 15. T: 030.254780. Bus M29, stop Lützowplatz. D4

Prater

LaBanca Bar

Schleusenkrug A relaxing spot for beer lovers amid the lush greenery of the Tiergarten. German specialties to go with your beer include a variety of cakes, Flammkuchen, and a few breakfast options. Daily from 11am. www.schleusenkrug.de. Müller-BreslauStr. T: 030.3139909. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

CASINOS Spielbank Berlin A modern casino offering three floors of fun and games, including 20 tables of roulette, blackjack, and an extensive variety of poker options, as well as 350 gaming machines.Daily from 11am. www.spielbank-berlin.de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1. T: 030.255990. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3/D4

WINE & COCKTAILS Bar Tausend Celebrities mingle while watching the expert mixologists do their magic at this futuristic bar. Thu–Sat from 7:30pm. www.tausendberlin.com. Schiffbauerdamm 11. T: 030.27582070. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Fragrances The Ritz-Carlton’s bar is the world’s only to pair cocktails with perfumes. Each drink is represented by a tester bottle of the perfume it’s based on and a photo illustrating the final presentation, which ranges from playful to

CLUB GUIDE BERGHAIN/PANORAMA BAR The world's most famous techno club – and with the toughest doormen too. Fri 12am–Mon. www.berghain.de. Am Wriezener Bahnhof. G3

KATER BLAU A top-notch soundsystem driving house and techno beats from the best DJs, and a carnival-like atmosphere. Fri–Sat from midnight. www.katerblau.de. Holzmarktstr. 25. G3

TRESOR

This old Berliner Kneipe restaurant is a Charlottenburg institution. Great beer and traditional German dishes. Daily from 11am. www.dicke-wirtin.de. Carmerstr. 9. T: 030.3124952. S Savignyplatz, S+U Zoologischer Garten. B4 Berlin’s oldest Biergarten serves simple and homely cuisine, seasonal specialties, and lots of beer of course! Daily from 6pm (from noon Sat). www.pratergarten.de. Kastanienallee 7-9. T: 030.4485688. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

©ISTOCK

whimsical. Closed until 31 May 2018. Until then, the 18 aromatic cocktails will be available at The Curtain Club. www.ritzcarlton.com. Potsdamer Platz 3. T:030.337777. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

The Hotel de Rome’s bar team specializes in avantgarde cocktails made with unusual ingredients such as balsamic vinegar, rose petals, or ginger beer. Live music Wed–Sat, rooftop terrace in summer. www.hotelderome.com. Behrenstr. 37. T: 030.4606090. U Französische Straße. E3

Newton Bar Cigars, champagne, whiskey, and cocktails define this bar, which is entirely dedicated to fashion photographer Helmut Newton. Daily 10am–3am (until 4am Fri–Sat). www.newton-bar.de. Charlottenstr. 57. T: 030.20295421. U Französische Straße. E3

Reingold A classic cocktail bar, 1920s style. Elegant leather sofas, sumptuous lighting, and gilded elements with a soundtrack ranging from soul and funk to R&B. Tue–Sat from 7pm. www. reingold.de. Novalisstr. 11. T: 030.28387676. U Oranienburger Tor. E2

Schwarzes Café A 24-hour combination of a bar and a café, with a good selection of beer and wine and hot meals at any time of night. Lovely garden. 24h a day except Tue from 3–10am. www. schwarzescafe-berlin.de. Kantstr. 148. T: 030.3138038. U Uhlandstraße, U Savignyplatz. B4

Times Bar A fine and luxurious bar inside the Savoy Hotel, offering modern drinks and Caribbean cocktails alongside a selection of cigars. www.weinrot-restaurant.com. Fasanenstr. 9-10.

Sip summer cocktails by the water at one of Berlin's beach bars on the Spree.

Housed in the safe of a department store, Tresor was the first techno club in Berlin’s post-Wall years. www.tresorberlin.com. Köpenicker Str. 70. F3

WATERGATE A two-story electro, house, and drum & bass temple, right on the Spree River. Tight doors. Mon, Wed–Sat from midnight. www.water-gate.de. Falckensteinstr. 49. G4

HOUSE OF WEEKEND Three floors, fabulous views over the city, and the best DJs playing techno and house. Fri–Sun from 11pm. www.week-end-berlin.de. Alexanderplatz 7. F3

CLÄRCHENS BALLHAUS A popular, century-old dance hall. It's salsa on Mon, tango on Tues, swing on Wed, cha cha on Thu, and live ballroom music on Fri+Sat. www.ballhaus.de. Auguststr. 24. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

HORNS & HOOVES An eccentric combination of club, piano bar, cabaret, and circus. www.hornsandhooves.de. Danziger Str. 1. F1

GRETCHEN Funk, hip hop, drum & bass and electronica at this eclectic Kreuzberg club. Fri & Sat. www.gretchen-club.de. Obentrautstr. 19-21. E4

PURO SKY LOUNGE High-heeled crowds in a sleek, luxurious setting on the roof of the Europa Center. Wed–Sat from 8pm. www.puroberlin.de. Tauentzienstr. 9-12. C4

THE PEARL Luxurious club for the poshest crowds, Thu–Sat until 7am. www.thepearl-berlin.de. Fasanenstr. 81. G4

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ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE USEFUL INFORMATION

BERLIN ESSENTIALS

Emergency numbers Police, call 110 free from any phone. Ambulance or fire, call 112 free from any phone. Medical Services, T: 030.310031. 24h Pharmacy: Hauptbahnhof Apotheke.

€

T: 030.20614190. S Hauptbahnhof. Berlin Police hotline, T: 030.46644664. Emergency dental services, T: 030.89004333. Poison hotline, T: 030.19240. National emergency number for on-call medical service, T: 116117. Berlin lost and found office, T: 030.902773101.

BERLIN AIRPORTS Berlin Tegel (TXL) Approx. 10 km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By bus: Buses 109 or X9 to Zoologischer Garten

run every 10 mins, taking approx. 20 mins. The TXL express bus to Alexanderplatz via Hauptbahnhof runs every 5–10 mins, taking. 25 mins. Single tickets cost €2.80 and can be bought on board. By U-Bahn: Bus 109 or X9 connects to the U-Bahn system at Jakob-Kaiser-Platz. Bus 128 links to the U-Bahn at Kurt-Schumacher-Platz and runs every 10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. Tickets cost €2.80. By taxi: Regular cabs take 10–20 mins to city center. Approx. €20–€35. Left luggage: Service center in Terminal A (ground floor). T: 030.41012315.

TIPPING: In taxis, rounding up to the nearest euro is the general practice, and the same applies when ordering a beer at the pub. In nicer bars and in restaurants or cafés, tipping around 10% is customary, more if you feel the service was especially good. While it is fine to leave the tip on the table, local practice is to add the tip to the payment when settling up. For example, if the bill is €13 and you want to tip €2, say “Fifteen” to the server when paying.

TAXIS: All taxis in Berlin are the same color of pale beige and are generally clean, safe, and courteous. The meter begins at €3.90 and increases at €2 per km. After the 7th km, the rate reduces to €1.50 / km. Payments by card may incur a €1.50 surcharge. For short rides of 2 km or less, the flat-rate €5 Kurzstrecke fare pays off. The Kurzstrecke rate only applies to hailed taxi rides (not from taxi stands) and must be requested at the start of the ride.

SAFETY: Berlin is a relatively safe city, but beware of pickpockets in busy areas. When in crowded U-Bahn stations, tourist sites, busy markets, and the like, pay close attention to your belongings and valuables. Alexanderplatz, Kottbusser Tor, Breitscheidplatz, Tauentzienstraße, and around Warschauer Straße station are especially favored by pickpocketers.

Berlin Schönefeld (SXF) Approx. 20 km (12 miles) southeast of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By regional train: Deutsche Bahn-operated

RE7 or RB14 to Ostbahnhof, Alexanderplatz, Hauptbahnhof, and Zoologischer Garten. RE9 to Hauptbahnhof via Südkreuz and Potsdamer Platz. Trains take approx. 45 mins. Tickets cost €3.40. By S-Bahn: Trains S9 and S45 to Hauptbahnhof, via Ostkreuz and Südkreuz respectively, run. every 20 mins, taking approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.40. By U-Bahn: Bus X7 and X11 to Rudow station connect with the U-Bahn system and run every 10 mins. Journey approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.40. By (night) bus: Arrivals between midnight and 4am Mon–Fri can take bus N7 to central areas. By taxi: Regular cabs take approx. 30 mins to city center, costing €30–€40. Left luggage: At the multi-storey car park P4. T: 030.60911150.

HEALTH: Few doctors’ practices open on weekends. In urgent cases, call 030 310031 to request a home visit from an emergency doctor, or go to the nearest hospital emergency room. For medication, pharmacies offer rotating nighttime and weekend coverage (“Notdienst”). Visit www.akberlin.de to search for one in your vicinity.

PHONES: The local area code for landline phones is 030. Mobile phones have a wide variety of four-digit dialing codes beginning with 015-, 016-, or 017-. When dialing from a non-German landline or mobile phone, drop the zero before the area code or dialing code and add the German country code: +49 or 0049. Dialing a 0180 number will incur tolls.

GETTING AROUND www.bvg.de.

Fares Buy tickets from machines in the station, and be sure to validate them in the posts next to the ticket machines. Single tickets cost €2.80; or save by paying €9 for four single-trip tickets, which you can validate as you need. If traveling fewer than three train stations or six bus or tram stops, buy a short-trip ticket for €1.70. Day tickets cost €7 for unlimited travel until 3am the following day, or if you are traveling with others, a small group ticket will get up to five people unlimited travel for €19.90. For those staying longer, a pass valid for seven days may be a better value at €30.

U-Bahn The underground system is extensive. Most lines run every five minutes (less frequently outside working hours), 4am–12:30am (replaced by night buses outside of these times). The entire U-Bahn and S-Bahn network runs all night on weekends.

S-Bahn The above-ground system is faster than the U-Bahn but less frequent. Trains run every 10–20 mins. Timing and ticket rules apply as above.

Public Ferries With a regular BVG ticket ,you can hop on one of the six public ferry lines. Most beautiful is the trip

from Wannsee to lakeside Kladow village; ferries leave every hour and take about 20 minutes.

Rail Travel Deutsche Bahn is the railway company that manages the Regional Bahn (RB) and Regional Express (RE) trains, operating around greater Berlin and Potsdam. The Intercity (IC) and European City (EC) trains travel further afield. www.bahn.de. Toll number: 0180.6996633. VBB is a public transportation authority created to reconnect Berlin to the surrounding Brandenburg area after German reunification.It offers services to metropolitan Berlin as well as to the rural communities in the countryside of Brandenburg. www.vbb.de

Public Transport

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ESSENTIALS Rent A Bike Explore Berlin by bike. Deutsche Bahn Call-a-Bike service:

www.callabike.de.

Taxis Würfelfunk: T: 030.210101.

MONEY SERVICES Banks and Foreign Exchange Exchange AG: Friedrichstr. 172. T: 030.20649296. Deutsche Bank: Kurfürstendamm 111. T: 030.8904370.

Lost Cards and Cheques American Express: T: 069.97972000 Diners Club: T: 07531.3633111 MasterCard: T: 0800.8191040 Visa: T: 0800.8118440

Tax-Free Shopping German law entitles all non-EU residents to a VAT tax refund. Look for stores displaying the Premier Tax Free sign and ask for a "tax-free form." When leaving the EU, goods and the completed form must be shown to a customs agent, from which a customs stamp must be obtained no more than three months after the date of purchase. Goods must be unused. Present the stamped form at the refund counter in the airport, or send it to Premier Tax Free as soon as you reach your destination. www.premiertaxfree.com.

Berlin At Your Fingertips Have smartphone, will travel. Download the Where Berlin team’s favorite apps for enhancing any visit to the capital city. All of them are free, and available for both Android and Apple devices. THE BERLIN WALL Made by the Federal Agency for Political Education, this award-winning app brings the Berlin Wall to life with interactive maps, archival photos and audio clips, walking tours, and more.

MY TAXI The rumors are true – Uber is banned in Berlin. Hail a ride using the My Taxi app instead, which also offers the option of making mobile payments.

DICT.CC A thorough, accurate, and easy-to-use German dictionary app that will have you communicating in no time.

FAHRINFO PLUS Get from A to B easily and efficiently with the BVG transit network’s app. Besides route guidance and live departure info, the app also lets you buy mobile tickets to avoid fiddling with clunky ticket machines.

MEETUP Whether you’re in the mood to do yoga, play board games, or just find some new friends, the Meetup.com community in Berlin is lively and warm. A great way to meet locals and fill your social calendar.

DURST When the hour is late and the craving hits for some beer, chocolate, smokes, snacks, or any other life necessities, open this app to find the closest Späti (late-night corner store) in your vicinity.

MAP LICENSE NUMBER: BVG- 015-2-18.1-1;.

Stand: 7. Mai 2018 © Berliner Verkehrsbetriebe (BVG) 015-2-18.1-1

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05/02/2018 15:16

WHERE NOW | SIGRID GRAJEK

SIGRID GRAJEK CABARET PERFORMER The spirit of swinging 1920s cabaret is alive and well in Berlin thanks to Sigrid Grajek, a multitalented performer, singer, and actress who regularly graces local stages. Her spirited acts include a musical biography of late cabaret star Claire Waldoff, renditions of Berlin's favorite oldschool songs, as well as contemporary comic cabaret. www.sigridgrajek.de

How would you describe your shows? They are journeys back in time. In one performance I tell the story of cabaret singer Claire Waldoff against the backdrop of German history from 1903 to 1957. This great and nearly forgotten artist lived through the Prussian empire, Weimar Republic, Third Reich, and West Germany's post-war democracy. People today can hardly imagine the tumult of these social changes. Many themes from those times are captured in the cabaret songs in a very amusing way and still have contemporary appeal. What makes the Golden Twenties inspiring for you as an artist? The period between the two World Wars was artistically rich, unbelievably so. For example, cabaret songs of a very high caliber were written, capturing aspects of humanity and still making us laugh, gasp, or cry even today. This period of blossoming was suffocated by fascism. I want those songs to live on. The spirit within them is precious. Nobody can write today as the people did then. For me, within each of these songs are small history lessons.

How do you identify with the characters you play on stage? They have become a part of me, though I often look at them with astonishment. My character of Coco Lorès, for example, is much more patient and amicable than I am. She's an old woman with an eventful past, which she tells through music and her blue guitar. My Claire Waldoff character is much braver and bolder than me. I was lucky to meet people who had seen the real Claire Waldoff perform. What they spoke of was her unbelievable energy. I made it my mission to capture this energy and bring it onto the stage. What brought you to Berlin? I moved to West Berlin in 1983 from the Ruhr region because I wanted to become an actor. I fell in love with the city at the precise moment my train went through Savignyplatz station. I knew then that I had found my place. What are your favorite places in the city for art or culture? I find the Ishtar Gate in the Pergamon Museum

fascinating. As a child I saw a photo and painted many variations of the gate. When I feel unhappy, I only need to go there and the blue of the tiles makes me smile again. My favorite museum for small, impressive exhibitions is the Georg Kolbe Museum, an atmospheric little gem. And my favorite places to perform are the BKA Theater in Kreuzberg and the small, intimate Café Lyrik in Prenzlauer Berg. Which neighborhood do you call home? Since 1998, I've lived in Kreuzberg's Bergmannkiez. I loved it until two years ago, when my apartment was taken over by investors. Since then I feel like I'm being pushed out. Almost all of my beloved neighbors are gone. My dream is a renovated circus wagon at the edge of the city, where I can live in peace away from greedy real estate sharks. Until then, I like going to Viktoriapark to listen to the waterfall, or cycling to Tempelhofer Feld to watch the clouds.

Clockwise from top left: The Ishtar Gate mosaic; Sigrid Grajek; the Viktoriapark waterfall; Tempelhofer Park; peaceful boating. Inset: Claire Waldoff.

SIGRID GRAJEK: PHOTO © GUIDO WOLLER; CLAIRE WALDOFF, POSTER BY JO STEINER, PUBLIC DOMAIN IMAGE VIA WIKIMEDIA COMMONS. CLAIRE WALDOFF BUNDESARCHIV BILD 183-RO7878/CC-BY-SA 3.0. ALL OTHER PHOTOS: © ISTOCK.

My Berlin

66 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U LY 2018

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