Where Magazine Berlin May 2018

BERLIN CITY GUIDE ®

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

WHERETRAVELER.COM

MAY 2018

MUSIC IN THE AIR Discovering the city's best venues for live jazz

PLUS GREEN BERLIN JAPANESE FOOD

SHOPPING | ENTERTAINMENT | CULTURE | DINING | MAPS

ADIEU, J e a n

Paul

GAULTIER!

Only until

Berlin

CONTENTS

05.18 See more of Berlin at wheretraveler.com

The Plan Let’s get started

The Guide The best of Berlin

18

7 Editor’s Note

XX

8 Hot Dates

A bright outlook requires cool shades.

Highlights of the month’s can’tmiss events, from the eclectic Carnival of Cultures to rock legends Nickelback.

SIGHTSEEING

36

XX of the Stasi’s legacy, Traces both effective and repressive.

41

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Welcome to the future of food.

XX

48

12 8

DINING

Gastropubs – where great food meets great drinks in a convivial pub atmosphere.

66

ENTERTAINMENT

55

20 Ask The Concierge

Check out the best jazz bars in town.

Berlin's concierges share their secrets.

NIGHTLIFE

60

66 My Berlin

16

Laura Villanueva Guerra A creative chef with a love for seasonal produce.

A fun-filled night of bar hopping in Kreuzberg.

ESSENTIALS

62

Useful information for your stay in Berlin.

20

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24 Shades Of Green

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Sowjetisches Sowje Ehrenmahl

BY LUISA WEISS

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PLUS GREEN BERLIN JAPANESE FOOD

More than just sushi, Berlin caters to the elevated palates of Japanophile gourmands.

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16 Turning Japanese

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FRIEDRICHSTR.

BUNDESTAG Paulaul-

The hunt for truly unique Berlin souvenirs.

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BY ANNABELLE MALLIA

18 Bring Berlin Home

H.-v.GagernStr.

Discovering the city's best venues for live jazz

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12 Green Days

Making the most of springtime as the city blooms..

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CARNIVAL OF CULTURES: © FRANK LOEHMER; CERAMICS BY BOLLHAGEN; TULIPS: © GRÜN BERLIN; FOOD: COURTESY OF USHIDO; LAURA VILLANUEVA GUERRA: COURTESY OF LAURA VILLANUEVA GUERRA; © ISTOCK.

SHOPPING

22

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EDITOR Solveig Steinhardt CONTRIBUTORS Hilda Hoy, Annabelle

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6 W H E R E B E R L I N I M AY 2018

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WELCOME TO BERLIN

The Sun's Out To me, May is a month of anticipation for the summer explosion. Temperatures are mild and rain frequent, but Berliners are all out in the street to make the most of any ray of sun they are able to catch.

Ever since moving to Berlin from Rome, I find that there's nothing as pleasant as slowly gliding into the evening while sampling German beer under the greenery. Café am Neuen See, Luise Dahlem, and Fischerhütte are three of my favorite beer gardens where you can do just that.

BERLIN: CAPITAL OF SPIES A thrilling journey through the history of espionage

This month, we've covered all of the best plant-covered spots in town (p. 12), from botanical gardens to parks and lakes.

Turn to page 16 for tips on the city's most delicious Japanese food, or check out p. 48 for a list of gastropubs. And if you're up for some fabulous live music, we've listed all our favorite jazz venues on p. 55.

SOLVEIG STEINHARDT EDITOR, WHERE BERLIN

Leipziger Platz 9, 10117 Berlin Potsdamer Platz Open daily 10 am – 8 pm deutsches-spionagemuseum.de

w w w.wheretravele w w w.wh e re t rave l er.c r. com om 7

HOT

DATES May in Berlin is filled with fabulous events, from multicultural street parades and cycling marathons to concerts and exhibitions.

2

PICTOPLASMA WEDNESDAY

Bringing the latest animation eye-candy to the big screen, this is one of the world’s leading festivals for contemporary character design and visual culture. Creators, producers, and fans are invited to a five-day-long program – at the heart of which are 20+ presentations by influential artists and upcoming talents. Main venue is the Babylon cinema at RosaLuxemburg-Platz. www.pictoplasma.com

8 W H E R E B E R L I N I M AY 2018

WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

13

VELOTHON SUNDAY

Cheer on the pedal power! One of the largest bicycle races in Europe, the Velothon is like one big cycling party, running up to 160 kilometers along Berlin’s main attractions and drawing a quarter of a million spectators. www.velothon.com

18

CARNIVAL OF CULTURES FROM FRIDAY

Diversity rocks! This annual festival in Kreuzberg is a lively celebration of Berlin’s cultural mix, with four days of world music, dance, culinary treats, and traditional wares, culminating in a colorful street parade starting at Hermannplatz on Sunday. Join the extravaganza of elaborate costumes, wild beats, and good cheer. www.karneval-berlin.de

6

LISA STANSFIELD SUNDAY

She conquered the charts in 1989 with her hit song All Around the World. After 25 years of music and acting stints, the “British Queen of White Soul” is back on tour to present her eighth album, Deeper, plus all her greatest hits. www.palast.berlin www.wheretraveler.com 9

1

a MAY DAY TUESDAY

Mayday, mayday! Labor Day in Berlin has historically been associated with violent street demonstrations in Kreuzberg. However, in recent years this has been replaced with peaceful celebrations at the Myfest street festival around Mariannenplatz. Expect an entertaining children’s program, performances, documentary screenings, and live music until late into the night. www.myfest.de

INTERNATIONAL MUSEUM DAY SUNDAY

Berlin is said to have more museums than rainy days. Rain or shine, this is a day for paying homage to our cultural gems.

The event is celebrated worldwide with guided tours, workshops, and talks, and many venues are open for free. Check the website for the list of participating museums. www.museumstag.de

13 NICKELBACK WEDNESDAY

16 10 W H E R E B E R L I N I M AY 2018

Their irresistible world hit How You Remind Me was voted Billboard’s Top Rock Song of the Decade. Don’t miss your chance to see rock icons Nickelback live on their Feed The Machine European Tour, for what is said to be their most elaborate and brave production to date.

Performing at the MaxSchmeling-Halle with very special guests Seether. www.max-schmelinghalle.de

MAY

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31

HOT DATES

Check out the wild May Day street parties that take over Kreuzberg every 1 May. Admire the famous bust of Nefertiti, queen of Ancient Egypt, at the Neues Museum.

The music & dance of Michael Jackson lives on in the Thriller show at Admiralspalast.

The lively, 8-piece Hypnotic Brass Ensemble fills Gretchen with jazzy music tonight.

Experience some lively Kreuzberg nightlife at the popular Luzia bar on Oranienstraße.

Enjoy a Mozart Matinee show at Konzerthaus – with both coffee & childcare on offer.

Yo La Tengo, iconic indie band of the '90s, plays live on the Heimathafen Neukölln stage.

Take a musical lunch break at the Philharmonie's free "lunch concert" at 1pm.

Catch an open-air film at Freiluftkino Kreuzberg, just reopened for the season.

Enjoy the Ascension public holiday by admiring the fields of tulips at Britzer Garten.

Verdi's operatic masterpiece Rigoletto takes center stage at Deutsche Oper this evening.

Popular German rock band Jennifer Rostock is the star act at Columbiahalle tonight.

A Masked Ball, Verdi's dramatic opera about an assassination plot, is on at Deutsche Oper.

Hear the powerful music of Game of Thrones in concert at Mercedes-Benz Arena.

Head to Friedrichstadt-Palast for The One, a splendid show featuring Gaultier costumes.

Enjoy an afternoon Espresso Concert at Konzerthaus – it's "caffeine for the ears."

Influencer singer-songwriter Ben Folds fillls the Passionskirche with music this evening.

The Deutsche Oper's Verdi series continues with the drama-filled opera Don Carlo.

Moving medieval poems come to life in Carl Orff's Carmina Burana at Tempodrom.

Happy Pentecost! Mark the holiday with a lovely brunch at Café am Literaturhaus.

Rossini's roaringly comedic opera The Barber of Seville takes the stage at Komische Oper.

Hear legendary violins come to life in the Stradivari Soloists show at the Philharmonie.

The Flying Illusion breakdance show wows audience at Theater am Potsdamer Platz.

the

Feast on international delicacies at the Street Food Thursday event at Markthalle Neun.

1970s punk rockers The Undertones are back – and playing a show at Huxleys.

Tonight, electronic musician Bonobo fills the Velodrom with slick, danceable sound.

Admire the spring blooms at the grounds and greenhouses of the Botanical Garden.

The fun & funky electro-funk duo called Chromeo is in concert at Festsaal Kreuzberg.

New Jersey indie rockers Screaming Females play live tonight at Berghain Kantine.

LCD Soundsystem is playing at Tempodrom and is sure to get you dancing in the aisles.

Craft beer fans: check out the impressive range of brews at Neuölln's Muted Horn bar.

For more ideas, see our Entertainment section.

PICTOPLASMA: © JIM STOTEN; VELOTHON: COURTESY OF VELOTHON; LISA STANSFIELD: DEEPER PRESS PICTURES EARMUSIC, © IAN DEVANEY; MAY DAY AND MUSEUM: © ISTOCK; CARNIVAL OF CULTURES: © FRANK LOEHMER; NICKELBACK: © RICHARD BELAND.

WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

Entrance

FREE

Come to sEe berlin´s only theme park

chips & Dips

Potato Climbing Net Potato Chip Factory

RoLler Coaster

Karls Erlebnis-Dorf · Zur Döberitzer Heide 1 · 14641 ELSTAL near Berlin open daily from 8 AM to 7 PM · www.karls.de

Annabelle Mallia plans to make the most of springtime.

P

eople always ask me if I miss Australia, especially the weather, and I’m honest when I answer “no.” I really appreciate the change of seasons (not to mention the changes of wardrobe) in Europe and the variety of activities offered at the different times of year: lake swimming in summer, forest walks in autumn, ice skating in winter, and the highly anticipated reawakening of springtime.

FIT FOR NATURE Come this time of year, the city has completely transformed into one of the greenest cities in Europe, perfect for a spot of exercise and fresh air. One of my favorite destinations is Berlin’s “Central Park,” Tiergarten. Originally the hunting ground of the Prussian

16 W H EERREE LO 12 BER NLDI N ON I M I AY J A N2018 UA R Y 2013

royals, the tree-dense park is filled with romantic canals and peaceful trails for jogging, and lush meadows for winding down.

If your timing is right, the threemeter-high bushes of the Rhododendronhain (grove) will be in full pink and purple bloom, like a scene straight out of a Monet painting.

Another favorite is Neukölln’s Britzer Garten (Sangerhauser Weg 1, www.gruen-berlin.de), with its acres of well-groomed flower beds, hilly meadows, and a large scenic pond.

Come early enough in May and catch the tail end of the tulip festival, or check out the Fairy Festival on 27 May (p. 15).

For some forest action, head down to Grunewald in the city’s southwest. Each time I climb the stairs to the top of Grunewald tower (Havelchaussee 61) I’m blown away by the vastness of the forest and the stunning view of the Havel River. The number of nature walks you can do here is unlimited. Pick

a path up Teufelsberg (Teufelsseechaussee 10), Berlin’s highest point of elevation, made entirely of WWII rubble and featuring an abandoned Cold War listening station, or go for a stroll around the twin lakes of Schlachtensee and Krumme Lanke.

This year I’m also especially excited to test out my Tarzan skills at Waldhochseilgarten Jungfernheide (Heckerdamm 260, www. waldhochseilgarten-jungfernheide.de), an obstacle course high up in the forest canopy.

ARTISTICALLY MANICURED I always have a strong desire for art, but once the weather warms up I don’t want to be stuck indoors. Mansion-cum-museum Liebermann Villa (Colomierstr. 3, www.

Tiergarten( top) Britzer Garten (far left) Grunewald tower (centre left) and the Liebermann Villa (below)

TIERGARTEN VIEW, KIDS BY THE POND, GRUNEWALD TOWER: © ISTOCK; LIEBERMANN VILLA: COURTESY OF LIEBERMANN VILLA; TULIPS AT BRITZER GARTEN AND GÄRTEN DER WELT: © GRÜN BERLIN; BOTANISCHER GARTEN, COURTESY OF BOTANISCHER GARTEN.

GREEN DAYS

WHERE NOW | GREEN BERLIN Mundraub.org maps out places in the city where you can pick your own in-season fruit, herbs, and other wild edibles growing on public land.

The Grunewald forest

liebermann-villa.de) was once the summer house of renowned German painter Max Liebermann and is now home to his works and a lovely waterfront café. The current (and seasonally apt) exhibition New Gardens presents the estate as a key manifestation of the reformed garden ideas of the early 1900s, which rejected the typical English landscape for a more geometric style.

Berlin’s sole sculpture museum, the Georg Kolbe Museum (Sensburger Allee 25, www. georg-kolbe-museum.de) houses over 200 of Georg Kolbe’s works in his enchanting garden and former studio. Like most classical modern sculptors, he favored the nude human figure. Within walking distance is also the Georg Kolbe Grove, featuring several large-scale sculptures by the artist.

At Gärten der Welt (Blumberger Damm 40, www.gruenberlin.de) the works of art

are the gardens themselves. I always start by riding the cable car over the great expanse of the grounds before taking a pleasant stroll from one culturally themed garden to the next, from the Japanese and Chinese Gardens with their very own teahouse, to the English landscape and Italian gardens.

EDIBLE GARDENS Nature is beautiful to look at, but Mother Nature’s greatest gift to mankind has to be the bounty of fruits and vegetables we can eat. Café Botanico (Richardstr. 100, www. cafe-botanico.de) hidden in the courtyard of a Neukölln apartment building, is an exciting combination of Italian restaurant and café with a huge garden and an organic-certified permaculture nursery, which provides many of the ingredients on the menu. Try their legendary herbal salad with over 50 wild

The trees in Tiergarten had to be entirely replanted in the 1950s after war- and poverty-stricken Berliners chopped everything off for firewood.

14 W H E R E B E R L I N I M AY 2018

herbs and spice plants. The same principle is adopted at Prinzessinnengarten (Prinzenstr. 35-38, www.prinzessinnengarten.net), a volunteer-powered urban gardening project at Moritzplatz. It’s fascinating to walk around and discover what’s growing in the old barrels and crates, such as herbs, lettuce, and tomatoes, and it feels great to savor all of the fresh produce at the garden’s café.

The Königliche Gartenakademie (Altensteinstr. 15a, www.koenigliche-gartenakademie.de) not only sells herbs, fruit trees, and other plants, it also runs horticulture workshops and inside the last greenhouse is an elegant café with an impressive Sunday brunch buffet and range of cakes. This is best combined with a visit to the nearby Botanical Gardens (Königin-Luise-Straße 6-8, www.botanischer-garten-berlin.de), which have a spring trail mapped out on their website.

Two of Berlin’s best gardens are the Gärten der Welt (top) and the Botanical Gardens (left and below)

ADVERTORIAL

ALL PHOTOS © GRÜN PHOTO CREDIT GOES BERLIN HERE GMBH & BRITZER GARTEN; CABLE TRAIN: © LEA GÖPPERT; AFRICAN BOUQUET: © DOMINIK BUTZMAN.

RHODODENDRON GROVE AND FAIRY FESTIVAL AT BRITZER GARDEN Spring is finally here with its abundance of colorful flowers. Come late May, it’s the rhododendron’s turn to take center stage and there’s no better place to appreciate its full bloom of white, pink, and purple than at the rhododendron grove at Britzer Garden. At the heart of the grove is also a “fairy garden,” which comes to life on 27 May (2pm) with all sorts of entertainment for little fairies and knights. Watch mystical unicorns pace around as they carry little garden visitors on their backs, and admire enchanting figures as they walk amid the crowd and the old fern trees, distributing fairy dust.

Dancing, knight games, and theater are also on offer, with a highlight being the crowning of this year’s Garden Fairy. Explore the rest of the park on foot or by riding the old park train and discover its hilly meadows, large scenic pond, waterside restaurant, kids’ playgrounds, and much more. www.britzer-garten.de Mohriner Allee 152 Open daily from 9am. T: 030.70090680

INTERNATIONAL GARDEN ART AT GÄRTEN DER WELT For springtime strolls with a global flair, don’t miss Gärten der Welt in Marzahn/ Hellersdorf. Here you can take in the beauty of ten culturally themed gardens and nine garden cabinets from various countries, including various Asian ones and a gorgeous English landscape. Do not miss the brand-new tropical house, the spectacular water gardens, the plant maze, the rose garden with about 6,000 roses, and the water playground for the kids. One of the park’s main highlights is the cable car with glass floors, which you can ride high above the expansive garden (ask for the €9.90 Kombi-Ticket, which includes park entry + cable car). And once you are done exploring, you have a choice of three delicious restaurants to relax in. www.gaerten-der-welt.de. Blumberger Damm 44 (Marzahn). Daily from 9am.

T: 030 700906778.

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WHERE NOW | ASIAN FOOD

T

he cultural gifts of Japan are widely admired, and for good reason. The land of the rising sun is the birthplace of a beautiful design sensibility, unparalleled street fashions, and an exuberant manga and anime tradition that have earned rapturous followers around the world. And let’s not forget the food, glorious food!

Japanese cuisine is finally getting its due respect here in Berlin, a city whose dining scene was, until very recently, dominated by generic, uninspired sushi joints. But now, the city is home to a number of truly outstanding restaurants that cater to the elevated palates of Japanophile gourmands. These restaurants honor Japanese culinary culture by crafting nuanced, subtly balanced dishes out of the freshest ingredients, served in the spirit of omotenashi, the Japanese concept of hospitality that emphasizes openness, mindfulness, and mutual respect.

For a Japanese dining experience that is sure to impress, don’t miss Shiori (MaxBeer-Str. 13, www.shioriberlin.com). Each detail of this beautiful space in Mitte, right down to the dishes and cutlery, is perfectly executed in minimal elegance. Meals here are always an intimate experience, with only 10 diners served per evening in a shared service beginning promptly at 7:30pm. With all the seats arranged around the bar and open kitchen, guests are in a prime position to watch chef Shiori Arai as he prepares each course of the kaiseki-style meal, a form of high-end dining that elevates a meal to an art form. As the evening unfolds, Arai serves a succession of pristine, minimalist dishes, each beautifully presented and composing a movement of the unified whole. Traditional cooking techniques and the freshest, seasonal produce and seafood result in unforgettable dishes like lobster dumpling in dashi kelp broth that pack a flavorful punch with plenty of wow factor.

Zenkichi (Johannisstr. 20, www.zenkichi. de) is another restaurant that encourages diners to surrender to the omakase (“chef’s choice”) menu concept. From the moment you descend into the peaceful space and are led to a secluded, bamboo-ringed booth, you know you’re in good hands. Although ordering à la carte is an option, splurging on the eight-course omakase is highly recommended. The chef’s selection typically opens with the freshest sashimi of the day 16 W H E R E B E R L I N I M AY 2018

Turning

JAPANESE Berlin’s Japanese dining scene has so much more to offer than just sushi, Hilda Hoy wants you to know.

ZENKICHI © BOAZ ARAD. SHIORI © SASHA KHARCHENKO. USHIDO COURTESY OF USHIDO. MATCHA TEA © ISTOCK.

Left and inset: Zenkichi. This photo: table setting at Shiori. Above left: premium sake at Zenkichi. Right: matcha green tea. Below: delectable beef for grilling at Ushido. Below left: an assortment of complementary bites at Shiori.

and cold bites like plump oysters in yuzu jelly before progressing on to warm dishes, such as perfectly crisp tempura shrimp dipped in matcha salt, miso-marinated cod perfectly grilled, pork belly simmered in dashi broth, and an exquisite black sesame mousse to cap it all off. No corners are cut in the caliber of ingredients, and the menu includes a selection of premium sakes that can be sampled in tasting trios.

Though it may seem as if Japanese cuisine is all about the seafood, think again – Japan’s beef is some of the best in the world, and yakiniku, tabletop grilling, enjoys great popularity there. Tucked away in Prenzlauer Berg is Berlin’s first yakiniku restaurant, the elegant yet welcoming Ushido (Lychener

Str. 18, www.ushido-bbq.com). The name means “the way of beef,” and the restaurant wholeheartedly embodies this earnest, dedicated approach. A wide variety of beef cuts are on offer for on-the-spot grilling, but connoisseurs know to go for Japan’s famed Wagyu beef, with the characteristic marbling that gives the meat its unrivalled flavor and tenderness. The high-temperature gas grill set into your tabletop lets you sear the meat to just the right degree, followed by a quick dip into a variety of sauces. Balance out all the beef with some Black Tiger shrimp, scallops, or pork belly on the grill, and tasty vegetables like pumpkin and lotus root. A delectable culinary journey to the Far East and back.

TEA TIME As delicious as the food may be, Japanese tea culture is deserving of attention too.

Mitte’s Mamecha (Mulackstr. 33, www. mamecha.com) is a bustling tea house with a wide variety of teas on offer, from grassygreen sencha to nutty-sweet kukicha, or toasty genmaicha with roasted rice kernels.

A special treat is matcha, the high-grade, finely ground tea traditionally used in Japanese tea ceremonies. Enjoy your pot of tea traditional sweets like chewy rice mochi morsels with sweetened adzuki beans, or matcha cheesecake.

Kreuzberg is home to the Macha Macha tea room (Hasenheide 16, www.machamacha.de), a lovely oasis of calm just a stone’s throw away from Hermannplatz, one the busiest parts of the city. The traditional tea room in the back is the perfect place to savor a bowl of matcha, prepared the traditional way with a bamboo whisk.

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WHERE WHERE NOW NOW || SOUVENIRS SOUVENIRS

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ne of the best things about traveling, besides learning about different cultures and discovering delicious new foods, is the hunt for souvenirs. It’s a neat way to discover things about the city you’re visiting and deepen the immersive travel experience – especially if you avoid the generic t-shirt and printed tote bag and instead opt to look for truly unique items.

1. SAWADE CHOCOLATE Berlin chocolatier Sawade, founded in 1880, was recently bought by a young couple who have managed the impossible: to breathe life into an old company without losing its charm. Sawade’s handcrafted chocolates and marzipan are delectable, but made even more covetable by the gorgeous boxes they are packaged in. I adore the big round boxes printed with Berlin landmarks, or the signature velvet boxes if you are hoping to impress.

Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. www.sawade.berlin 2. ANGELA MERKEL COOKIE CUTTER In honor of Angela Merkel’s 4th term as the Chancellor of Germany, head to Kochtail, a well-stocked kitchenware shop in Mitte, to grab a few of these iconic cookie cutters in the shape of Merkel’s profile. They’re low-budget, topical, and a little cheeky, which makes them the perfect souvenir. At Kochtail, you’ll no doubt find countless other treasures, including excellent pans, beautiful enamel Austrian storage tins, and razor-sharp Swiss knives. Invalidenstr. 150. www.phil-goods.com 3. BERLINER HONIG HONEY TRIO Berlin boasts a population of more than 3000 honey bees, and Berliner Honig produces a trio of creamed honeys made entirely from honey harvested in Berlin. The Berliner Frühling honey is mild and delicate, made up of honey from fruit trees, as well as chestnut and maple. Berlin Sommer has a stronger flavor and a gorgeously sunny yellow hue. The Berlin Hauptstadt Linde variety features the strongest linden flavor.

The trio can be found at Edeka stores around Berlin. www.berlinerhonig.de 4. KPM PORCELAIN It’s tough to narrow down the selection at this world-famous porcelain company, which has been turning out exquisite plates, cups and decorative items in Berlin for more than 250 years. Head to their headquarters in Tiergarten to visit the KPM museum, then stop in the shop (or the seconds shop, carrying more affordable 18 W H E R E B E R L I N I M AY 2018

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BRINGING HOME

A PIECE OF BERLIN Luisa Weiss goes on the hunt for Berlin’s best souvenirs. items) to browse among the “white gold” offerings. I’m partial to the vases, designed by Berlin design icons and Prussian architectural legend Karl Friedrich Schinkel. Wegelystr.1. www.kpm-berlin.com 5. HARRY LEHMANN PERFUME The heavy scent of the flowering linden trees that line Berlin’s streets is a hallmark of the start to the warmer months. If you’re lucky enough to visit Berlin in spring, you’ll get to smell it yourself. To remind yourself of that magical scent, head to Harry Lehmann in Charlottenburg, an old-school parfumier that was reportedly a favorite of Marlene Dietrich’s.

Among many scents, Harry Lehmann makes a specific “Lindenblüte” perfume. Kantstr. 106. www.parfum-individual.de 6. OOOH, BERLIN! DISTRICT POSTERS Berliners are fiercely loyal to their districts, often down to their Kiez, a unique Berlin term for a little neighborhood within a larger district. To honor these allegiances, Oooh, Berlin! had designer Michael Parkin produce a run of 15 posters showcasing districts like Friedrichshain, Neukölln, and Mitte. Get them online at www.raumitalic.com, www.ooohberlin. com, or at Schliemannstr. 29.

7. TV TOWER PEPPER GRINDER The iconic television tower on Alexanderplatz is a hallmark of Berlin’s horizon. Here it’s been reimagined as a pepper grinder – and a surprisingly good one. Made of rubber tree

wood, with a powerful ceramic grinding mechanism, is both whimsical and useful.

Kochtail, Invalidenstr. 150. www.kochtail.de 8. HEDWIG BOLLHAGEN CERAMICS Hedwig Bollhagen was a ceramicist inspired by the Bauhaus, whose quietly beautiful teapots and bowls were essentials on the tables of both East and West Germans for decades.

Today, her humble company has been taken over by a young relative with ambitions beyond Germany’s borders, but Bollhagen’s ageless designs endure. Bring home a teapot or a set of nesting bowls – you’ll have them forever. Bollhagen-Shop, Wilmersdorfer Str. 9.

9. NEUE FREUNDE SANDBOX TOYS If you’ve got small children at home, the Neue Freunde set of sandbox toys in the shapes of famous Berlin monuments is just the ticket.

The Reichstag, Brandenburg Gate, and the TV Tower are all included in the set and will make your children’s playground creations extra special. www.neuefreunde.bigcartel.com 10. SPIRITS BY BERLINER BRANDSTIFTER A cottage industry of spirits makers has sprung up in Berlin over the past few years.

Berliner Brandstifter stands out for their quality as well as their commitment to local ingredients. The botanicals for their Dry Gin and Vodka are grown and harvested on a farm in Brandenburg, while the wheat for their Kornbrand is exclusively grown in Germany. www.berlinerbrandstifter.com

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Ask the

CONCIERGE

Nobody knows the city better than your expert concierges.

Johannes Bannert, head concierge at Sheraton Berlin Grand Hotel Esplanade and a lover of all spectator sports, is here to share his knowledge.

Which sport would you say Berliners are crazy about?

Soccer is the number-one national sport in Germany and we are very proud to have two clubs in Berlin. Hertha BSC is in the Bundesliga (first division), and Union Berlin in the second division.

Where can tourists take part in this? And perhaps buy a Hertha jersey?

The home of Hertha BSC is the Olympiastadion, which also hosted the 2006 FIFA World Cup and the Champions League final of 2015. There is a merchandise shop onsite, but those who wish to stay in town can also buy jerseys and gadgets at the store inside the Europa Center. Union Berlin, on the other hand, plays at the Alte Försterei in Köpenik.

Which other sports are Berliners fond of watching?

Berlin has got much more to offer than just soccer. There are the Berlin Eisbären (ice hockey), Volleys (volleyball), and Füchse Berlin (handball). All of them play in the highest leagues and have a good reputation in Germany.

What’s the significance of the DFB-Pokal this month?

The DFB-Pokal playoffs are always something special, since all professional

From top to bottom: Olympiastadion; an Alba Berlin game; Germany fans at the stadium; Café am neuen See.

20 W H EERREE LO BER NLDI N ON I M I AY J A N2018 UA R Y 2013

football teams in Germany have the chance to win the cup, not just the teams in the first division. Since 1985, the finals have always been held at the Olympiastadion. This year they are taking place on 19 May. How is the city set to change in the lead up to this year’s FIFA World Cup in June?

There are always big celebrations along the “fan mile” on Straße des 17. Juni in Tiergarten, with big screens to watch the games and a kind of fun fair and party atmosphere.

Venue recommendations for cheering on sporting heroes?

The Irish Pub at the Europa Center is always a nice place to watch all kinds of sports. And if you want to enjoy the nice weather, the beer garden at Café am Neuen See in the heart of Tiergarten park is the ideal spot to enjoy a game of the upcoming World Cup in June.

YOUR CONCIERGE IS HAPPY TO HELP!

Talk to your concierge if you need assistance with restaurant reservations, concert tickets, arranging spa services, booking transportation, or simply to ask for recommendations.

ALBA BERLIN: COURTESY OF ALBA BERLIN; OLYMPIASTADION AND GERMANY FANS: © ISTOCK; CAFE AM NEUEN SEE: COURTESY OF CAFE AM NEUEN SEE.

WHERE NOW | CONCIERGE

www.spindlerklatt.com

Reservation + 49 [0] 30 319 88 18 60

SHOPPING | THE GUIDE This image and top right: images from the ic! Berlin campaign; bottom right: and below: YUN Glasses

Bright Eyes Annabelle Mallia makes a statement with eyewear.

Waking up to spring after the long, grey winter is rejuvenating. Yet, it can also be blinding. Here are some high-quality, hip sunglasses stores that will stylishly stop you from squinting against the newfound, glorious sunshine. ic! berlin (Münzstr. 5, www.ic-berlin.de) believes the never-ending cycle of consumption is over. They combine ultramodern machinery with traditional craftsmanship to create screwless and feather-light glasses that are made to last.

Shop from the most comprehensive collection of ic! berlin eyewear at their flagship store, with over 500 frames ranging from the latest collection, as well as limited editions and vintage collectables kept in a vault. It's more than just an eyewear shop: You can also grab yourself a coffee, use their wifi connection, or simply chill on the sofas whilst making your choice.

Another brand that is renowned for precision craftsmanship and new 22 W H E R E B E R L I N I M AY 2018

technologies is Berlin label Mykita (RosaLuxemburg-Str. 6, www.mykita.com).

Hand-assembling glasses in their Mitte manufactory, they have won numerous design awards and international praise.

No matter which decade of vintage eyewear you’re in the market for, Lunettes Selection (Torstr. 172, www. lunettes-selection.de) has it. They offer a complete history of fashionable eyewear starting with the 1900s, from ‘50s horn-rimmed and cat-eye frames to ‘80s nerd-glasses. All are never-been-worn original glasses, sourced from highquality manufacturers around the globe.

If you believe

wood needs a revival in everyday street life, check out Kerbholz (www.kerbholz.com).

Their wood-framed specs have been described as everything from “funky” to “romantic,” while the range has since expanded to include wood-strapped watches. Each item is one-of-a-kind, thanks to the details in the wood grain, handcrafted, and sourced from sustainable forests.

Though not homegrown, innovative Korean eyewear brand YUN (Rosenthaler Str. 11, www.yun-berlin. com) launched their first flagship store here in Berlin. The minimalist ethos means their designs are simple, waiting time short, and price point low. Even so, they deliver an outstanding level of quality, using the thinnest, lightest, and most durable materials to keep you looking cool on brighter days.

SHOPPING

THE

where GUIDELINES

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Every effort is made to provide accurate and updated information.

However, information may be subject to last minute changes, so it is always advisable to call ahead.

INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS T: Telephone number S: S-Bahn, Above-ground train system U: U-Bahn, Underground train system MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 64-65.

OPENING HOURS Opening hours may vary, so it’s best to call ahead.

Shops are open Mon–Sat only, and Sunday shopping is only possible on certain Sundays of the year.

Groceries can be bought on Sundays at major train stations (Hauptbahnhof, Friedrichstraße, at Ullrich at Zoologischer Garten, or Ostbahnhof ). Shopping malls are open 10am–8pm and smaller stores only until 6pm.

TOURIST INFORMATION VisitBerlin is the official source of information on the city. Call T: 030.25002333 for specific Berlin information, or go to www.visitberlin.de for details on all information centers, events, and sights.

Tourist Info Points: Brandenburg Gate – Pariser Platz, daily 9:30am–6pm (until 7pm in summer).

Hauptbahnhof – Europaplatz 1, Level 0, daily 8am–9pm.

TV Tower Alexanderplatz – Panoramastr. 1a, daily 10am–4pm.

DEPARTMENT STORES & MALLS Alexa Hardcore shoppers love this mall for its sheer size, with over 180 stores spread over five levels. Highstreet retailers are well represented, and a large food court obliges when hunger overwhelms your desire to shop. www.alexacentre.com.

Grunerstr. 20. T: 030.269340121.

S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Europa Center This shopping mall on the Ku’damm offers a range of goods from over 70 shops. Check out the ingenious water clock designed by Bernard Gitton in 1982. www.europa-center-berlin.de.

Tauentzienstr. 9–12. T: 030.26497940.

U Kurfürstendamm, U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Galeria Kaufhof The former East German department store, renovated in 2006, showcases more than 600 exclusive brands and an exquisite gourmet section covering 35,000sq.m (377,000sq.ft) of space. www.galeria-kaufhof.de. Alexanderplatz 9.

T: 030.247430.

S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Galeries Lafayette The Berlin branch of the exclusive Parisian department store is developed around an extraordinary glass cone. The three circular floors rise up around this centerpiece, packed with perfumes, clothing, and accessories. The food counter offers a wide range of French specialties and there’s a corner selling teas from the famed French tea house Mariage Frères. www.galerieslafayette.de. Friedrichstr. 76–78.

T: 030.209480.

U Französische Straße. E3

KaDeWe (Kaufhaus des Westens) The biggest and oldest department store in continental Europe sells only products of the highest quality. If you're short on time, the legendary gourmet food hall on the sixth floor is not to be missed. www.kadewe.de. Tauentzienstr. 21–24.

T: 030.21210. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Mall of Berlin 270 shops, 270 apartments, gyms, and pedestrian areas define the new Mall of Berlin on Leipziger Platz, a world of shopping opportunities a stone’s throw from the city’s main tourist attractions. www.mallofberlin.de.Leipziger Platz 12.

U Mohrenstraße. E3

Potsdamer Platz Arkaden

This large shopping center offers more than 120 shops over three BIKINI BERLIN floors, stocking everything from BIKINI BERLIN combines shopping The Ku'damm was West clothes and accessories to with a fun and relaxing experience.

Berlin's most important electronics and groceries. Its shopping strip during The historical building complex restaurants and bars, both inside the Cold War. in Berlin's west end makes for and in surrounding streets, also interesting strolls, also offering make it a very popular meeting spot. beautiful views of the Berlin zoo and its www.potsdamer-platz-arkaden.de. animals, which can be admired both from Alte Potsdamer Str. 7. T: 030.2559270. indoors as well as from the rooftop terrace.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3 But the main attraction is the curated selection of shops, which include individual pop-up boxes frequently showcasing new designers, popular brands, and many design stores.

Annette Görtz www.bikiniberlin.de.

Inspired by geometric lines and the use of Budapester Str. 38-50. "non-colors" such as black, beige, white, and T: 030.55496455. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4 gray, fashion brand Annette Görtz combines

FASHION

©ISTOCK

Designer Outlet Berlin Your favorite designer brands with discounts up to 70 percent, at just 30 minutes from the city center. Also features cafes and restaurants, a children’s play area, free parking and more that 100 international brands. Shuttle bus from center on Fri-Sat. Mon–Sat 10am–8pm. www.designeroutletberlin.com.

Alter Spandauer Weg 1. T: 033234.9040.

Take the regional train to Elstal. Off Map

5 Eco-Friendly Fashion Stores

comfort with understated elegance. www.annettegoertzcom. T: 030 20074613.

Markgrafenstr. 42. U Stadtmitte. E3

Basler Founded in Berlin in 1936 and now sold around the globe, Basler stands for femininity and versatility, aiming to make women of all ages and sizes look and feel good. From everyday style to business casual to something elegant for a night out, you’ll find plenty to add to your wardrobe. Second store at Schloßstr.

24COLOURS Their fair-trade women’s clothing is mostly casual, but always unique: every piece is only produced 300 times. Oderberger Str. 20. www.24colours.de

NATURKAUFHAUS This organic department store in Steglitz has four floors of organic clothes, shoes, textiles, and furnishings, as well as a large selection of cosmetics.

Schloßstr. 101. www.naturkaufhaus-gmbh.de

ADRETT Offering German-made fashion from Berlin and Munich designers, this small boutique only sells handmade, sustainable garments.

Weinbergsweg 23. www.adrett-berlin.de

FLAGSHIPSTORE Casual and comfortable clothing from ecofriendly sources. Oderberger Str. 53. www.flagshipstore-berlin.de

SUPERMARCHÉ From the striped underwear to the egg cups and lamps, everything here comes from fair-trade businesses or is made with organic materials. Wiener Str. 16. www.supermarche-berlin.de

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SHOPPING

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1. Liu Jo, Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12. 2. Liu Jo, Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12.

3. Marc Cain, Kurfürstendamm 69. 4. GEOX, Kurfürstendamm 209.

5. Marc Cain, Kurfürstendamm 69. 6. Marc Cain, Kurfürstendamm 69.

7. Talbot Runhof, Schlüterstraße 50. 8. Freya, www.freyalingerie.com.

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4 JULY 2018 – KRAFTWERK BERLIN WWW.FASHIONTECH.BERLIN

FASHION. TECH. DIGITALISATION. INNOVATION. BUSINESS.

SHOPPING 28. www.basler-fashion.com. Kurfürstendamm 220.

T: 030.88472949. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Beatrice von Tresckow Sumptuous, elegant, somewhat extravagant.

Beatrice Von Tresckow women's clothes are lively and colorful, an eye-catching addition to any wardrobe. www.beatricevontresckow.com, Leibnizstr. 60. T: 030 308318. U Adenauer Platz. C4

Be Edgy With rule-breaking elements and a timeless soul, this Berlin-born fashion label makes perfectly cut leather jackets and a variety of accessories meant

for rebellious and cheeky boys and girls. www.be.edgy.de. Bleibtreustr. 27.

T: 0176.61137540. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Boggi Milano Italian elegance for men. Specializes in highquality suits that are formal while also remaining comfortable, and also carries a sport casual collection. www.boggi.com. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Blue Tomato No matter if your cruising on snow, water, or asphalt, this sports store has everything a rider’s heart desires. From snowboards, skateboards, and surfboards to the finest selection of streetwear, sneakers, and accessories from top brands like Burton, Volcom and Vans, this is a real boarder's paradise. www.blue-tomato.com. Nürnberger Str. 13. T: 030.21966647. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

By Anne

to mix things up. Elegant and effortless clothing, lingerie, accessories, and shoes. www.ganni.com.

Alte Schönhauser Str. 6.

T: 030.27590966. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Gobi Cashmere The first European store of this luxury Mongolian cashmere manufacturer opened in December 2016 to bring organic, high-quality cashmere fashion and fabrics produced in Asia to the highest standards. www.shop-gobi.com/en/.

Knesebeckstr. 30. T: 030.22466513.

U Uhlandstraße. E2

Goldsteg Designer Outlet This outlet store carries one-of-a-kind fashion pieces, exciting accessories and high-quality Italian leather bags by a wide range of designers. www.goldsteg.de. Carmerstr. 8.

T: 030 51307933. S Savignyplatz. B4

By Anne offers designer fashion from sought-after Marc Cain European labels such as cool Danish brand NÜ, A worldwide premium brand for women’s fashion Beate Heymann Street Couture, playful with its own production facility in Germany.

Spanish label Uno Piu Uno, and bags Marc Cain effortlessly combines from By Lou Lou, together with other aesthetics and innovation in design accessories to complement your new and materials, making a declaration outfit. Unique art pieces are also of love to women. www.marc-cain. on sale to help you express your The quiet Suarezstraße com. Friedrichstr. 61. in Charlottenburg individuality in the home or garden.

See website for more locations. is the place to go for www.byanne.de. Rosenthaler Str. 31.

T: 030.20077219. U Stadtmitte. E3 antiques.

T: 030.28879436. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Cotélac

Reveal Your Stance, Not Just Your Curves Even if underwear is only seen by a select few, Mey will not settle for less.

This family-owned German company, dating back to 1928, has always invested in quality, innovation, sustainability, and fair working conditions. They believe sexy lingerie should feel great, and not just for the wearer. With this season’s “Make love not waste” campaign they want to inspire a deeper sense of responsibility when it comes to buying your undergarments. Check out their new store just off luxury shopping strip Ku’damm, presenting their latest range of lingerie, daywear and nightwear, as well as loungewear for men and women.

Fasanenstraße 22. www.mey.com

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The French just have that certain je ne sais quoi when it comes to style. Laid-back, breezy, comfortable, and nonetheless elegant, the Cotélac collections capture that quintessential French style in clothing and accessories for both women and men. Brand hallmarks are fine fabrics, subtle details and unique prints created with special dye and fabric techniques. Mulackstr. 6.

T: 030 53604074. www.cotelac.fr.

U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Ellen Eisemann Feminine and chic dresses , skirts, tops made for the Audrey Hepburns of today. Simple, geometric cuts and eye-catching colors and prints combine a timeless style with a glamorous vintage look. www.elleneisemann.com. Monumentenstraße 33-34. 030 78898595.S Yorckstraße. D5

designer depot This boutique in Mitte offers selected designer fashion, shoes, and accessories for men and ladies at up to 50 percent off. There are more than 30 international labels such as Calvin Klein, Iceberg, Roberto Cavalli, and Valentino. www.designer-depot.net. Rochstr. 2.

T: 030.28046700. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Finn's Mode This tiny store near Savignyplatz stocks a large variety of fashion items with a personality, for women "who know who they are and like to dress well." Brands include Piazza Sempione, Zenggi, Cambio, Le Tricot Perugia, and more, and the selection ranges from dresses and skirts to accessories like shoes and bags. www.finns-mode.de. Bleibtreustr. 47.

T: 030.8832202. U Uhlandstraße B4

Ganni Berlin Founded in Copenhagen, Ganni carries easy-towear pieces for women with an attitude who like

Marina Rinaldi

Born inside the Max Mara fashion group in 1980, this label stocks a collection of garments and accessories for the curvier woman and represents a turning point in the history of women’s apparel. www.marinarinaldi.com. Kurfürstendamm 178 (check website for other locations). T: 030.88554046. U Adenauerplatz. B4

Max Mara One of the oldest and most prestigious Italian fashion houses, known for its quality craftsmanship and ready-to-wear clothing. www.maxmara.com.

Kurfürstendamm 178 (check website for other locations). T: 030.8852545. U Adenauerplatz. B4

Mientus One of the largest providers of exclusive fashion in Germany. Four levels housing collections from top international designers like Dolce & Gabbana, Moncler, and Gucci. www.mientus.com.

Wilmersdorfer Str. 73. T: 030.3239077.

U Wilmersdorfer Straße, S Charlottenburg. B4

Michael Kors The New York-based designer Michael Kors is known for his ready-to-wear fashion and luxury accessories – bags, watches, jewelry, shoes, and other award-winning designs. www.michaelkors. com. Kurfürstendamm 219.

T: 030.81825760.

U Uhlandstraße. C4; Rosenthaler Str. 37.

T: 030.24088690.

U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Patrick Hellmann Among the most successful luxury brands in the fashion world, Patrick Hellmann stands for timelessness, elegant designs, quality materials, and extravagant details. There are also clothes

by Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior, and Dolce & Gabbana. www.patrick-hellmann.com.

Kurfürstendamm 190–192. T: 030.88487711.

U Adenauerplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

Strellson This Swiss company creates fashion for men who are on their way up or, as they say, for young men with big plans. Concentrating on clarity, the Strellson philosophy is based on clear cuts and top quality for their suits and other urban wears, as well as transparent values and work attitudes. www.strellson.com. Mall of Berlin. Direct entrance from Voßstraße. T: 030.229088200.

U Mohrenstraße. E3

No.1 IN SHOPPING, LEISURE & E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N B E R L I N MO - SA 10am - 9pm ALEXA AT ALEXANDERPLATZ OPEN ON SUNDAYS: FOOD COURT AND LEISURE AREA

Rebecca Store With a unique boudoir atmosphere, this concept store is a harmonious medley of European and American designers, including Yigal Azrouel, Vera Wang, and Gas Bijoux. All items are personally selected by owner Rebecca Zehden on her many trips abroad. www.rebecca-berlin.de.

Alte Schönhauser Str. 41. T: 030 34620780.

U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

180 SHOPS FASHION, ACCESSORIES, ELECTRONICS, BOOKS & MUCH MORE SHOPPING

Strellson This Swiss company creates fashion for men who are on their way up or, as they say, for young men with big plans. Concentrating on clarity, the Strellson philosophy is based on clear cuts and top quality for their suits and other urban wears, as well as transparent values and work attitudes. www.strellson.com. Münzstr. 8. T: 030.24724042.

U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Talbot Runhof Designers Johnny Talbot and Adrian Runhof launched their label in Munich but have since gone global, branching out from glamorous evening gowns into everyday outfits and accessories. Discover the comprehensive range of dresses, separates, and knitwear, plus shoes and accessories in their Charlottenburg boutique.

A brand hallmark is the complex, precise cuts and unusual seam placement used to create feminine, flattering silhouettes. Schlüterstr. 50.

T: 030 23363170. www.talbotrunhof.com.

U Uhlandstraße, S Savignyplatz. B4

Center der Stars.

ALEXACENTRE.COM

Selected shops for the savvy shopper

Trüffelschwein The Trüffelschwein man is never overdressed – he simply looks good, with a collection of small niche brands from London, Paris, and New York. www. trueffelschweinberlin.com. Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 21. T: 030.70221225. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

UNIQLO Originally a chain of roadside stores in suburban Japan, this brand quickly became an Asian sensation and has now expanded to trendy urban hubs around the globe. Their Berlin flagship store has three floors of quality basics and fashion for women, men, and children. www.uniqlo.com.

Tauentzienstr. 7. T: 030 29028260.

U Wittenbergplatz. C4; Leipziger Platz 16.

S+U Potsdamer Platz.

E3; Rosenthaler Str. 42; S Hackescher Markt. F3 Founded in Germany 60 years ago as a brand for workers, Wellensteyn is now a high-class label for quality technical jackets that are also stylish, as well as other items for the outdoor life. www.wellensteyn.com. Europa Center.

Tauentzienstr. 9-, 12. T: 030.23927186.

U Kurfürstendamm. C4. Grunerstr. 20.

S+U Alexanderplatz. F3 T: 030.27583926.

Friedrichstr. 58. T: 40744747. U Stadtmitte. E3

©ISTOCK

Wellensteyn

®

Berlin wheretraveler.com

www.wheretraveler.com 27

SHOPPING

SIZING GUIDE SHOES US

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CLOTHES Euro

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Outfit by COS, Kurfürstendamm 217.

Wormland This men’s boutique carries the best German and international brands, catering to a demanding man and offering a variety of styles, from classy to casual, from business to sporty. Brands include Calvin Klein, Black Kaviar, Lee Jeans, and Hugo Boss. www.wormland.de. Mall of Berlin. Direct entrance from Voßstraße. T: 030.229088200.

U Mohrenstraße. E3

8 9 10 11 12 13

S M L

the highest quality standards to its collection of shoes, handbags and accessories. Browse the shelves for contemporary, comfortable looks for everyday wear or elegant heels.

Email: bagattberlino@gmail.com.

Bikini Berlin: Budapester Str. 38–50.

T:030 25759777. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Boots & Shoes

With their air-cushioned sole, lace-up style, and yellow stitching, the popular Doc Martens boots launched in the UK in 1960 was based on a The popular online shopping fashion market prototype by German army doctor Klaus Märtens. has a large outlet store in Berlin, featuring Check out many designs and colors of the 1000 square meters of fashion and famous boots at Boots & Shoes, from accessories from the world's top brands, the classic 1460 model, to shiny blue, sold at even lower prices. or floral print. Ballerinas, booties, www.zalando.de. Köpenicker Str. 20. clothing, and accessories round off T: 0800.3300996. U Schlesiches Tor. the offering. www.drmartens.com.

G4 The first set of traffic Dircksenstr. 49. lights in Europe was T: 0800.2070700. installed in 1924 on S+U Alexanderplatz. F3 Potsdamer Platz.

Falke Flagship Store

The Munich label is one of Germany’s most important leather accessory brands, combining tradition and innovation with luxury classics.

Choose between handbags, belts, and luxury travel luggage, as well as gift items such as corkscrews, keyrings and backgammon boxes. www.aignermunich.com. Kurfürstendamm 50.

T: 030.88683638. U Uhlandstraße. B4

This legwear shop caters to both men and women with all kinds of socks, stockings, tights, knee-highs, and anything that will keep your legs warm. They also have a good selection of sports accessories and knitwear, as well as delightful kids’ socks. www.falke.com.

Kurfürstendamm 36.

T: 030.88553565. U Uhlandstraße. B4; Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Str. 12.

T: 030.20647995. U Mohrenstraße. E3

bagatt Milano

Michael Kors

AIGNER

Bagatt epitomizes the appreciation for beauty for which Italy is known. With its core philosophy of fine Italian craftsmanship, bagatt Milano applies 28 W H E R E B E R L I N I M AY 2018

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The New York-based designer Michael Kors is known for his ready-to-wear fashion and luxury accessories – bags, watches, jewelry, shoes, and

4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10-11 12-13 14-15

4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10 12 13

110cm 116-122 128-134 140-146 152-158 164-170

other award-winning designs. www.michaelkors.com. Kurfürstendamm 219.

T: 030.81825760. U Uhlandstr. C4; Rosenthaler Str. 37. T: 030.24088690. F2

New Era Flagship Store Looking for a new cap? This is the largest and fastest growing headwear producer in the world.

There are more than 1000 styles over two floors, ranging from the classic baseball cap to modern designs, including their bestseller 59fifty, popular with the skater and hip hop crowd. www.neweracap.com. An der Spandauer Brücke 7.

T: 030.27890578. Hackescher Markt. F2

Unützer Elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacturing are what sets Unützer apart from many other shoe brands. Founded 25 years ago, this shoe label stands for elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacture. The boots, pumps, and ballerinas are all made in a small town near Venice according to the century-old Italian tradition. www.unuetzer.com. Giesebrechtstr. 10.

T: 030.88916710. U Uhlandstraße. C4

JEWELRY & WATCHES Aris Diamond Since 1906, ARIS has been specializing in diamond jewelry, delivering everything from pendants, necklaces, and earrings, to fabulous engagement rings. Got a special occasion coming up? Check up their new shop in the Mall of Berlin for refined pieces. www.arisdiamond.com. www.mallofberlin.de.

Leipziger Platz 12.U Mohrenstraße. E3

SHOPPING Boutique Cartier

Liquidrom

Founded in Paris in 1847, Cartier is one of the world’s most esteemed designers of luxury jewelry and watches, with a long history of sales to royalty and celebrities. www.cartier.de.

Kurfürstendamm 188–189. T: 030.8867060.

U Uhlandstraße, U Adenauerplatz. B4

Treat yourself to a blissful evening, with an outdoor spa, a thermal bath with mood lighting and underwater music, and five different saunas. Best of all are the infusions which take place in the Finnish sauna on the hour, or the honey and salt body scrubs. www.liquidrom-berlin.de. Möckernstr. 10.

T: 030.258007820. U Möckernbrücke. E4

Bucherer With a dedicated Rolex and Patek Philippe corner, and a wide range of other prestigious watch brands, as well as exclusive jewelry creations, the Bucherer store provides customers with first-class service and a unique shopping experience. www.bucherer.com.

Friedrichstr.176-179. T: 030.2041049.

U Französische Straße E3; Kurfürstendamm 45.

T: 030.8804030. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Bodo Dilg Goldschmiede A master in the jewelry field, Bodo Dilg creates unique pieces of contemporary jewelry using gold and precious stones against a backdrop of historical stucco and cement tiles.

An essential stop for soon to wed partners. www.bodo-dilg.de. Grolmanstr. 30/31.

T: 030 88675355. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Juwelier Leicht im Hotel Adlon This jewelry shop has its own manufactory and also carries luxurious brands like Omega, Glashütte Original, and more. Check out Leicht’s marvelous creations, each uniquely manufactured with gold and precious stones. www.leicht-jewellery.com.

Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2290212.

S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

ROLEX Boutique One of the most famous brands in luxury, Rolex has been making wristwatches since 1905. First created in England, the company soon moved to Switzerland, and its perfect timepieces are recognized worldwide as the ultimate symbol of elegance and refinement. www.rolex.de. www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184.

T: 030.55669010. U Uhlandstraße. E2

Schmelter Juwelen Pearls and diamonds define this jewelry store near the Ku’damm. Have a look at the marvelous collection of Schoeffel pearl colliers, many of which are made with exquisite Tahitian pearls. www.schmelter-juwelen.de. Uhlandstr. 167-168.

T: 030.8815671. U Uhlandstraße. B/C4

Nivea Haus Nivea is Latin for snow white. At the flagship store of this German beauty powerhouse you can browse the entire product range, sign up for a consultation, or get a quick massage or facial. www.nivea.de/Haus.

Unter den Linden 28. T: 030.20456160.

S+U Friedrichstraße, U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Parfumsalon An exclusive perfume boutique that has been offering fragrances for more than five decades.

The shop's selection include rarities and special aromas, all hand-picked by owner and perfume expert Mario Worms. www.parfumsalon.de.

Uhlandstr. 173-174.

T: 030.8827306. E3

AUGUSTSTRASSE IN MITTE: one long art gallery.

SHOPPING AT KADEWE: the biggest department store in Europe.

THE MIX OF CULTURES: hundreds of languages and foods.

What began over 60 years ago as a Christmas decorations shop has developed into a trendsetting provider of gifts, furnishings, and decorative items. Depot has four collections per year and is known for its versatility. www.depot-online.com.

Kurfürstendamm 231 (check website for other locations). T: 030.88701924. U Uhlandstraße. C4

Home on Earth Located in the historical Hackesche Höfe, this store offers home décor items made from natural materials combined with Scandinavian design. Founded by a German-Danish pair in Barcelona, this is the first store to hit Germany. www.homeonearth.com. Hackesche Höfe/Hof V, Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. T: 030 2834354.

S Hackescher Markt F2

Pylones

Babor

Stilwerk

Specializing in beauty driven by science, Babor creates skincare solutions for every woman’s unique needs. Top-sellers at the flagship store include vitamin-rich skin serums and deluxe foundations with a lifting effect. www.babor.de. Französische Str. 48.

T: 030. 20622222. U Französische Straße. E3

Five levels and 52 stores of the most refined interior design producers. Classic to avant-garde items from renowned international manufacturers, such as Bang & Olufsen, Stokke, and Alessi. www.stilwerk.de.

Kantstr. 17. S Savignyplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

Flaconi

ELECTRONICS

The perfume boutique offers scents inspired by the city, like Pure Violet, originally composed for Marlene Dietrich. Take a scent test to find the fragrances that suit you best or ask customize your own bottle. www.frau-tonis-parfum.com.

Zimmerstr. 13. T: 030.20215310. U Kochstraße. E4

1 2 3

Depot

BEAUTY & WELLNESS

Frau Tonis Parfum

There are many reasons to love the German capital.

HOME DÉCOR

These household products are created to add a spark to our daily lives, filling it with color and fun.

The designers especially like to choose zoomorphic themes, which means that nutcrackers look like cats and watering cans like birds. www.pylones.com.

Kurfürstendamm 225 (check website for other store locations). T: 030.92362488. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

A large perfumerie carrying all the best perfume brands as well a myriads of products for the skin and hair as well as makeup. www.flaconi.de.

Leipziger Str. 36. T: 030.20674990. U Mohrenstraße. E3

10

THINGS WE LOVE ABOUT BERLIN

Sennheiser This German brand stands for innovation in the world of audio electronics, from microphones and speakers to headsets and more. The cuttingedge wireless headphones in particular are prized by pro musicians, DJs, music fans, and gamers alike. Test out all the latest models at the Charlottenburg store. www.sennheiser.com.

Tauentzienstr. 17. T: 030.23630162.

U Wittenbergplatz. C4

4 5 6

7 8 9 10

THE HISTORIC BUILDINGS: a feast of architectural styles.

THE CULTURE: three opera houses and myriad theaters big and small.

THE CITY’S LAID-BACK NATURE: a relaxed, casual look rules.

THE SPREE RIVER and the city’s endless waterways.

THE CULINARY DIVERSITY, from arroz con pollo to Zimtsterne.

EXPERIENCING THE CITY BY NIGHT. Berlin is safe, lively, and insomniac.

THE ASISI WALL PANORAMA: a journey back in time. www.wheretraveler.com 29

SHOPPING MAPS

ADVERTORIALS

AUDIO EXPERIENCE

Visit us Monday to Saturday 10 am to 8 pm

Sennheiser Store Berlin

Tauentzienstr. 17 - 10789 Berlin S-Bahn/U-Bahn Zoologischer Garten U-Bahn Wittenbergplatz

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P e SENSTR E MOMM van COS ors R B T Laa TE Ren che D uche umi ck Yves Saint Laurent BCBG re e éL MA eza sign r Louis Vuitton Lag XA M r M e d ZR A rfel Augsburger Str. Hermès IA d Q Parfu TEND R 208 msa Ch ÜRS Unützer Bo ose lon op Bally URF Val tte nth K GI B a e e r ga rlin al ES SØR E Ven ntino d EB Ma SCA RE eta u D Bu CH lga rice LA BOGGI Milano TS acr ri Do TR. Jens Richard TR. oi lce RGER S Jil &G Gucci x LIETZENBU Sa a n B M bb de urb M an r ENDA err a Cartier | Campbell | Chanel y ÜRST Ma KURF xM Ermenegildo Zegna Adenauer- Tom Mulberry ara /M bo MCM | PRADA platz ari lin na i Rin ald ROLEX Boutique i

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SHOP STOP

BIKINI BERLIN

Bikini Berlin is all about fashion, design and good vibes. The concept shopping mall is renowned for its lovingly curated stores, as well as a number of pop-up boxes where brands can launch new products. Another highlight is the new Kantini food market, serving up culinary delights from various different countries.

Budapester Str. 38–50. T: 030 55496455 www.bikiniberlin.de 30 W H E R E B E R L I N I M AY 2018

SHOP STOP

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SHOP STOP

PARFUMSALON

MICHAEL KORS

This exclusive perfume boutique has been offering extraordinary fragrances since the 1960s. Mario Worms is an expert in perfume counseling, offering advice on the perfect scent for every client, and the shop's selection includes rare bottles and unusual aromas.

Uhlandstr. 173-174. T: 030 8827306 www.parfumsalon.de

Michael Kors is a world-renowned designer of luxury accessories and ready-to-wear, offering a lifestyle for the consummate jet setter that is as sophisticated as it is indulgent and as glamorous as it is modern.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm.

Kurfürstendamm 219.

T: 030 81825760 www.michaelkors.com

SHOPPING MAPS

ADVERTORIALS

SHOP STOP

FRIEDRICHSTRASSE

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Friedrichstadt-Palast

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Bucherer

GALERIES LAFAYETTE /Q207

COS Massimo Dutti Annette Görtz Store Berlin

Französische Straße

R. FR IE DR IC H ST

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Gucci Galeries Lafayette

Quartier 206 Umasan

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The Q.

Stefanel

MO HR EN ST R. MEISSEN im Hilton Stadtmitte/U2 Gudrun Sjödén

Comptoir des Cotonniers

TA UB EN ST R.

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Checkpoint Charlie Frau Tonis Parfum

Hausvogteiplatz

The famous Parisian department store brings French charm and style to Berlin with five floors of fashion, accessories, beauty products and delicacies.

Galeries Lafayette is located in the Quartier 207 where you can also shop at Gucci, Opera‘s, Le Nails, Sathea, Cashmere House, Manon Chocolaterie, La Librairie and Galeries Lafayette Outlet.

Friedrichstr. 76–78. T: 030 209480. galerieslafayette.de SHOP STOP

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Evelin Brandt Crines Design Mephisto

Beauty meets science at this skincare institute. Owner and cosmetics expert Christiane Lingner offers high-level treatments such as deluxe facials, skin analyses, purifying sessions, manicures, pedicures, as well as intensive and strengthening treatments for the gentlemen.

Head to the flagship store for vitamin-rich serums and foundations with a lifting effect.

Französische Str. 48. T: 030 20622222 www.babor-berlin.de

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Lifesmyle

FRAU TONIS PARFUM This perfume manufactory has been described as Berlin’s most unique perfumery.

Try classics such as Linde Berlin, or Pure Violet, Marlene Dietrich’s favorite fragrance.

For something more personal, join other scent aficionados from all over the world and create your own, private perfume.

Zimmerstr. 13 (Checkpoint Charlie).

T: 030 20215310 www.frau-tonis-parfum.com www.wheretraveler.com 31

SHOPPING MAPS

MALL OF BERLIN

COS

HALLHUBER

MARC CAIN

Reno

SWAROVSKI

Deichmann

Hollister

Marc O’Polo

Replay

Taschenparadies

DESIGUAL

HUGO BOSS

MASSIMO DUTTI

Rich & Royal

THOMAS SABO

Dogo Shoes

Hunkemöller

Mavi

Runners Point

Tom Tailor

Einblick Optik

INTIMISSIMI

MAX & CO.

S & D sons and

TOMMY HILFIGER

Engelsrufer & Co.

Jack & Jones

Mephisto

daughters

TOMMY JEANS

Esprit

JD Sports

Eterna Fashion & Accessories

Kingz

FASHION CLUB

C&A

MANKIND

Calvin Klein Jeans

Airfield

CALZEDONIA

Foot Locker

Casano

Diamond

Change

ARMANI EXCHANGE

CHRIST

G-Star Raw

Backlash

CINQUE

GANT

Bershka

Claire’s

GINA TRICOT

BIJOU BRIGITTE

Clarks Ecco

BREE

Codello

LIEBESKIND

French Connection

TWIN-SET

Schiesser

UN1DEUX2TROIS3

Schuh Bode

Undiz

SHOE CITY

Oakley

Levi’s

Fossil

ARIS Art of

MAKEUP

LACOSTE

Triumph

Sarar

Nike NYX PROFESSIONAL

Konplott

Fast Forward

Trigema

Salamander

NAVYBOOT

KARL LAGERFELD

FALKE

7 FOR ALL

Muji

Vans

Sidestep

Olymp

VERO MODA

Sizeer

Palmers

WE-Fashion

PANDORA

SNIPES

Wigglesteps

Liu Jo

Passionata

Sportalm Kitzbühel

WORMLAND

LLOYD

Peak Performance

SPORTSCHECK

ZARA

L’Occitane

Peek &

Street Shoes

ZERO

GUESS

Look 54

Cloppenburg

STRELLSON

H&M

MANGO

Pepe Jeans

Sunglass Hut

Lief!

Frisco Jeans

...and the biggest Foodhall.

WB MALL OF BERLIN.indd 1 LEIPZIGER PLATZ / POTSDAMER PLATZ

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Blue Man Group Theater

Travel the world at KulturBrauerei: See the best current films from all corners of the globe in their original language version – regularly in our programme! Info and tickets at cinestar.de 32 W H E R E B E R L I N I M AY 2018

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Sony Center CineStar/IMAX LEIPZIGER Potsdamer Platz PLATZ DAMER STRASSE

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Mohrenstr.

SHOPPING

LUXURY BRANDS CHOPARD

AIGNER www.aignermunich.com.

Kurfürstendamm 50. T: 030.88683668.

U Uhlandstraße. B4

BALLY

www.chopard.com Kurfürstendamm 54.

T: 030 70096980.

U Uhlandstraße. B4

ESCADA

www.bally.com. Kurfürstendamm 52.

T: 030.88707688. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BOGGI MILANO www.boggi.it. Kurfürstendamm 195-196.

T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BOSS www.hugoboss.com. Friedrichstr. 165.

T: 030.20613890. U Französische Straße. E3

BUCHERER www.bucherer.com. Friedrichstr. 45.

T: 030.2041049. U Kochstraße. E4

www.escada.com.

Kurfürstendamm 195.

T: 030.88923815. U Uhlandstraße. B4

MAURICE LACROIX www.mauricelacroix.de. Friedrichstr. 166.

T: 030.33024852.

U Französische Straße. E3

MCM www.mcmworldwide.com. Rosenthaler Str. 38. T: 030.28493793.

S Hackescher Markt. F2

ROLEX

BULGARI

www.rolex.com. Kurfürstendamm 184.

T: 030.55669010.

U Adenauerplatz. B4

www.bulgari.com. Kurfürstendamm 190-192. T: 030.8857920.

U Uhlandstraße. B4

WEMPE

EMPORIO ARMANI www.armani.com. Friedrichstr. 169-170.

T: 030 20615660. U Stadtmitte. E3

www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184.

T: 030.8826878.

U Adenauerplatz. B4

shopping arkaden

A PLACE FOR SHOPPING ARKADEN SHOPS open from Mon—Sat, 10am to 9pm. POTSDAMERPLATZ.DE

Brookfield_Potsdamer_Platz_022_A_Place_for_Shopping_v02.indd 1

22/02/2018 16:44 www.wheretraveler.com 33

SHOPPING MAPS

SHOP STOP

ADVERTORIALS

HACKESCHER MARKT AND MITTE

TORSTRASSE

Modomoto Atelier Einhundert

LINIENSTRASSE ENT

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An der Spandauer Brücke 7.

T: 030 27890578 de.neweracap.eu

TRAS

ASSE ER STR BURG

Looking for a new cap? The world's leading headwear brand is now the official headwear of the NBA. Check out the latest New Era NBA collection at the New Era store in Berlin.

TORS

Lala Berlin Wolfen Germany Boutique Hoho Berlin ASSE M R V T U O S L T L A S KER AUGU LANGCKSTRASS Cotélac Greta Store E & Luis Ka STE tje INS Trippen T sC R ASS afé GIPSS E Gr TRAS SE ün Onitsuka L REBECCA HIRT Be ieb Oh SOP ENS n S es r Skunkfunk HIE TRA he kin NST SSE r d m Freitag Weinmeisterstr.

RAS 11 a n SE Trüffelschwein Ma vi Oakley Promobo MÜ Scotch & Soda Michael Kors NZ STR Ad MÜHLE Store Berlin MCM ASS ida As Dr IK We Anine Bing E s ka yk KS ek Home on earth Bu ni or da designer depot a n y UN ffalo Hackesche Höfe IQ & Shoes LO Boots Volution Sports Mykita KSENSTRASSE Riccardo Cartillone DIRC MO Frosch & Königin NB IJO New Era Flagship Store UP L. SE Hackescher Markt TRAS S H C RO Onepiece Concept Store

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Zeppelin Mode Goldsteg

Cimp Schmuckdesign Paper & Tea Buffalo KANTSTRASSE SavignySchuhtick platz

Hackesche Höfe/Hof V, Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. www.homeonearth.com

Zoologisch er Garten

RD

GOETHESTR.

Barcelona-founded Home on Earth offers products combining sustainability and Nordic design, each produced without wasting any resources. Using almost exclusively natural materials such as bamboo, wool, coconut, mango and hemp. The store opened its first branch in Germany in December 2015.

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SCHLÜTERSTR.

SAVIGNYPLATZ/CITY WEST

Marooush LIETZENBURG

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HACKESCHE HÖFE

An intricate series of interconnected courtyards provides an example of early-19thcentury German Secessionist style. The first courtyard is entirely decorated with glazed blue-and-white tiles in geometric designs, while the apartment buildings and narrow, maze-like alleys lined with cafés, shops, and theaters give the Höfe an atmosphere both familiar and fascinating.

Rosenthaler Str. 40-41.

S Hackescher Markt 34 W H E R E B E R L I N I M AY 2018

The C/O Berlin photography gallery (Hardenbergstraße 22-24, www.co-berlin.org)

SIGHTSEEING | THE GUIDE

Once Watching, Still There Serene Tseng finds traces of the Stasi’s legacy still present in the capital.

After the end of World War II, when Germany split into East and West, the East German government established the Ministry for State Security, better known as the Stasi. In its 40 years of existence, the Stasi employed over a quarter-million people, along with over one hundred thousand secret informants. The Stasi was both effective and repressive in combating the regime’s dissidents, and now, nearly 30 years after its end, tangible memories of its activities can still be experienced in the capital.

The Stasi Museum (p. 44) in Lichtenberg is housed in the very building where the intelligence agency was once headquartered.

Visitors can explore the three floors to learn of the Stasi’s inception, expansion, methods of control, and demise. On display is surveillance technology, such as hidden cameras, bugs, and microphones, as well as the largely untouched offices of Stasi officials, such as that of Erich Mielke, one-time Stasi head. In early 1990, the building complex was 36 W H E R E B E R L I N I M AY 2018

occupied by demonstrators demanding the intelligence agency’s disbandment and the publicizing of the Stasi’s files on citizens, and despite the Stasi’s dissolution and hasty effort at destroying records, the files remained largely intact. In fact, the Stasi Records Agency is still actively preserving and cataloging the millions of pages in an archive where anyone can request to view their file.

The Stasi also ran a secret political prison, deep in a militarized zone in Berlin's northeast and unmarked on maps. Formerly used as an army kitchen during WWII, the camp was transformed into a Soviet prison after the war before the Stasi took ownership. Unlike the Stasi headquarters, fewer people knew of its existence, allowing the prison authorities ample time to destroy records and evidence of its operations. The site is preserved as the

Gedenkstätte Berlin-Hohenschönhausen (p.

39) a memorial and museum dedicated to the thousands of political dissidents and their experiences within these walls. Former inmates give regular tours leading visitors through the subterranean halls, interrogation rooms, and cells, sharing their first-hand accounts of the Stasi’s methods of psychological violence.

All of these themes and more are covered in a lighter manner at the German Spy Museum (p. 44), which explores the history of espionage with a focus on Berlin's role as a spy city during the Cold War. The visit includes leisurely secret-agent activities for younger visitors, such as a laser maze, and hands-on exhibits detailing code cracking techniques and the different tools used by secret agents.

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK, COURTESY OF SPY MUSEUM, COURTESY OF STASI MUSEUM. HOHENSCHÖNHAUSEN PRISON: CC BY NC-ND 2.0 VIA FLICKR USER MOMPL.

This photo: The memorial prison in Hohenschönhausen. Left: A secret agent's Trabant car at the German Spy Museum.

Photos below: two exhibition rooms at the German Spy Museum.

MAJOR SIGHTS The “Alex” TV Tower The 368m- (1027ft)-high TV tower of Alexanderplatz can be seen from almost any point in the city and has been iconic of Berlin ever since it was built by the GDR in 1969. The giant steel-clad sphere atop houses a revolving restaurant and café as well as a viewing platform. The elevator ride lasts 40 seconds. Arrive early to avoid lines.

Daily 9am–midnight (Nov–Feb from 10am). €13/8.50. www.tv-turm.de. Panoramastr. 1a.

T: 030.24757537. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Berliner Dom The city’s neo-Renaissance cathedral was begun in the late 1700s, finished in 1905, and renovated in simplified form after WWII damage. Walk up 267 steps for glorious views of the city from the dome, or stay on the ground floor to gaze at elaborate sarcophagi containing the royal remains of Hohenzollern family members. Thanks to the church’s perfect acoustics and a 7200-pipe organ, the Dom is also an important concert venue.

Mon–Sat 9am–8pm, Sun 9am–8pm (winter until 7pm). €7/5. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten.

T: 030.20269119. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Brandenburg Gate MUST SEE The definitive Berlin icon, Carl Gotthard

BERLIN FRAUENLAUF: COURTESY OF AVON FRAUENLAUF.

Langhans’ Neoclassical triumphal arch has witnessed the city’s best and worst moments, from the military parades of the Third Reich to the Wall being raised and torn down. Formerly behind GDR borders, today the gate acts mainly as the backdrop for festivals, New Year’s Eve parties, and tourist snapshots. U Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3

Charlottenburg Palace The summer home of Sophie Charlotte, wife of King Friedrich I of Prussia, reflects the grandeur of the Hohenzollern family. Begun in 1695, the luxury Baroque complex consists of a main building with a central cupola and two side wings, added in later years, that enclose a courtyard. The picturesque park surrounding the castle includes a formal French-style garden, English garden with pond and statues, belvedere, and mausoleum. The castle hosts temporary art and history exhibitions.

Tue–Sun 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm). €12/8. www.spsg.de. Spandauer Damm 20-24.

T: 030.9694200. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Let‘s go up!

Hackesche Höfe This series interconnected courtyards is a great example of early-19th-century German Secessionist style. The first courtyard is entirely decorated with glazed blue-and-white tiles in geometric designs, while the apartment buildings and narrow, maze-like alleys lined with cafés, shops, and theaters give the Höfe an atmosphere both familiar and fascinating. Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. S Hackescher Markt. E2/F2

Haus der Kulturen der Welt Dubbed the “pregnant oyster” by locals because of its curvy shape, the Haus der Kulturen der Welt was built as a congress hall in 1956. The building quickly became a symbol of western freedom and creativity, in contrast to East German architectural projects of the time. Computer-guided chime concerts ring daily at noon and 6pm and the building now hosts concerts and intercultural events. Open daily 10am–7pm. € prices vary.

For A Good Cause As summer approaches, take part in either a 5- or 10-kilometer run through Berlin’s idyllic Tiergarten while helping a noble cause. The 34th annual Avon Frauenlauf (Women’s Run) will take place on 26 May, and €1 from each sign-up is donated to cancer research in Berlin. The race ends at the glorious Brandenburg Gate, and you can register until May 10 assuming that the 18,000 participant limit hasn’t been reached yet. www.berliner-frauenlauf.de

Towering 368m above Berlin, the TV Tower dominates the city’s skyline like no other building. Plan your visit for the observation deck or the revolving restaurant “Sphere” now and avoid the queues – book your Fast Track Ticket online.

Berlin TV Tower – simply unforgettable!

www.tv-turm.de www.wheretraveler.com 37

SIGHTSEEING www.berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de.

Bernauer Str. 111. Bernauer Straße. E2

A view of Nikolaiviertel, Berlin's first neighborhood

Checkpoint Charlie During the Cold War, Checkpoint Charlie was the main gateway between East and West. Shortly after the Wall went up, US and Soviet tanks faced each other on this spot. Today, the crossing point acts primarily as a backdrop for tourist photographs. U Kochstraße, U Stadtmitte. E3/E4

East Side Gallery While West Berliners loved to express their creativity by drawing graffiti and painting on the Wall, East Berliners were never allowed to use the dividing structure as a canvas. To make up for all the artless years, artists from 21 countries were called upon in 1990 to decorate one mile of the Wall's eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery.

Mühlenstraße. S+U Warschauer Straße, S Ostbahnhof. G4

Holocaust Memorial

Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche This church’s bombed-out bell tower has been an anti-war memorial and a symbol of West Berlin ever since its ruins were restored to their present state in 1957. The old church’s ruins now host an exhibition of before and after photos documenting its former splendor and showing the Ku’damm before the bombs. Look up to admire what is left of the old mosaic. Open daily from 9am to 6pm. www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de.

Breitscheidplatz. T: 030.2185023.

U Zoologischer Garten, Kurfürstendamm. C4

Nikolaiviertel and Knoblauchhaus The Nikolaiviertel is where Berlin was born, and the area still retains its ancient character, although most of the buildings in the narrow medieval alleys are replicas of destroyed originals that dated back to the 1200s. The late-Gothic Nikolaikirche, Berlin’s oldest surviving building, is now a museum. Other points of interest include the Ephraim Palais Museum and the Biedermeierstyle Knoblauchhaus, a 19th-century middleclass townhouse that escaped WWII damage.

Knoblauch Haus: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. www.knoblauchhaus.de. Poststr S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Potsdamer Platz Before the war, Potsdamer Platz was the city’s beating heart, with department stores, banks, internationally known theaters, dance halls, and cafés. WWII bombs obliterated 80 percent of the square, which was left in limbo for a few years and then enclosed in a no-man’s-land between the Wall and barbed wire fences. The square came back to life in the 1990s as a modern reinterpretation of its original self. Divided in three slices, it includes the Sony building with its central plaza; Daimler City, home to a large shopping mall; and the Manhattan-style Beisheim Center building. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Reichstag and Foster’s Glass Cupola MUST SEE In the last 100 years, the massive

38 W H E R E B E R L I N I M AY 2018

neo-Renaissance building, now the seat of German Parliament, has been bombed, set on fire, wrapped by artist Christo, and renovated by Lord Norman Foster. Climb the glass cupola for a 360-degree view of the city, then gaze down at parliament in session.

The plenary hall can be visited only on guided tours.

Cupola: Daily 8am–midnight by appointment only.

Free. Register on website; it is recommended to do so at least three days prior to your visit. Audio tours available. www.bundestag.de. Platz der Republik 1.

T: 030.22732152.

U Bundestag. D3/E3

Siegessäule (Victory Column) The triumphal column on the Straße der 17. Juni, in the middle of Tiergarten park, commemorates victory in the Prusso-Danish war, while the angel on top was added after two further war victories against Austria and France. Daily 9:30am–6:30pm (weekends until 7pm); winter 10am–5pm (weekends until 5:30pm). €3/2. Großer Stern 1.

T: 030.3912961.

U Hansaplatz. C3/D3

HISTORIC SITES Asisi’s Wall Panorama Yadegar Asisi created a panorama of divided Berlin, presenting everyday life against the backdrop of the Wall on an imaginary day in the 1980s. The artist's aim was to show how the population came to terms with the situation, and the result gives onlookers a glimpse of East German life. Daily 10am–6pm. €10/4. www.asisi.de. Friedrichstr. 205.

T: 0341.3555340.

Kochstraße. E3/E4

Berlin Wall Documentation Center MUST SEE Walk along one of the few surviving

stretches of the Berlin Wall in an area of the city where its impact was particularly dramatic, then delve into its storied history at the documentation center. Documents and original radio broadcasts from both East and West chronicle one of Germany’s saddest historical periods. Open-air exhibition: 8am-10pm daily; documentation center: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. Free.

Karl-Marx-Allee Berlin’s best example of GDR-era Neorealist architecture is a 90m- (295ft-)wide boulevard built between 1950 and 1960 to provide housing for thousands of residents and to act as a backdrop for military parades. The street quickly became a source of national pride for East Germany, due to its residential tower blocks inspired by Moscow and by Stalin’s ideal style: nationalistic in form but socialist in content. The boulevard is an important architectural showcase.

U Weberwiese, Strausberger Platz. F3/G3

Stasi Prison Between 1945 and 1989, more than 20,000 people suspected of opposing the East German political system were arrested by the Stasi (secret police) and brought to this custody building. In its first and darkest years, the prison’s cellars, known as “the submarine,” were used to inflict psychological torture on the inmates, while the relatively more humane cells are on the upper floors, next to a seemingly never-ending corridor lined with interrogation rooms. Tours in English on Wed, Sat, and Sun at 2:30pm in winter, daily at 11:30am and 2:30pm in summer. €6/3. en.stiftung-hsh.de.

Genslerstr. 66. T: 030.98608230. S Landsberger Allee, then Tram M5 to Freienwalder Str., then 10-minute walk. Off Map

Topographie des Terrors MUST SEE On the site of the former headquarters of the SS and the Third Reich’s most important offices, this permanent exhibition recounts the tragic history of Nazi forced labor, focusing on the central institutions of the SS and Third Reich police and the crimes they committed throughout Europe.

A segment of the Wall runs along the grounds.

Daily 10am–8pm. Free. www.topographie.de.

Niederkirchnerstr. 8.

T: 030.2545090. U Kochstraße. E4

© ISTOCK

www.hkw.de. John-Foster-Dulles-Allee 10.

T: 030.397870. U Bundestag. D3

MUST SEE Berlin’s tribute to the victims of the Holocaust is as big as a soccer field and consists of 2711 tombstone-like slabs of equal size and varying heights, placed on uneven ground to convey a sense of claustrophobia and disorientation. The underground information center provides a timeline of Jewish persecution. Accessible 24 hours a day. Free. www.holocaust-mahnmal.de.

Cora-Berliner Straße. T: 030.2639430.

U Brandenburger Tor. E3

SIGHTSEEING Tränenpalast (Palace of Tears)

and Sea Life tickets available. www.thedungeons.com. Spandauer Str. 2.S+U Until 1990, the departure hall of the Hackescher Markt. F3 Friedrichstraße station was also a border crossing for West Berliners on their way home after visiting Berlin Zoo and Aquarium relatives and friends in the East. The many painful MUST SEE One of the city’s main attractions and farewells brought locals to rename the building the the oldest zoo in Germany includes pavilions that “palace of tears.” The permanent exhibition Border provide ample indoor space, making the venue Experience: Everyday Life in Divided Germany recounts suitable for rainy days. The zoo boasts the the effects of the border on German largest number of species and total residents of the time. Tue–Fri 9am–7pm animal residents in the world. The (Sat–Sun until 6pm). Free. www.hdg. aquarium, one of the largest in de. Reichstagufer 17.

Europe, features large tanks with T: 030.46777790. S+U piranhas, sharks, and alligators.

In 1995, artist Christo Friedrichstraße. E3 Daily 9am–6:30pm. Zoo or wrapped up the aquarium: €14.50/7.50, under-4s Reichstag in 100,000 free. Combined Zoo-Aquarium sq.m. of polypropylene ticket: €20/10. fabric.

Berlin Dungeon www.aquarium-berlin.de, Much like the London Dungeon, www.zoo-berlin.de Hardenbergplatz 8. the Berlin Dungeon provides a terrifying T: 030.254010. interactive journey through the city's dark past S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4 via a sometimes-spooky, actor-led experience.

Visitors are taken through attractions such Botanischer Garten as the old library of Berlin, a plague-infected This large park was designed in the Romantic street, a torture chamber, a secret court, and English style, with hills, lakes, and pretty more. Not recommended for young children. greenhouses. There is a palm house and a whole Daily 10am–6pm (winter weekends until 5pm). section dedicated to exotic plants, including €20.50/12.30(discount when booking online). orchids, cacti, and carnivorous plants.

Under-14s must be accompanied by adult.

Open daily 9am–ca. one hour before sunset.

Combined LEGOLAND, Madame Tussauds, Museum closes at 6pm. €6/3.

KIDS & FAMILIES

Currywurst Museum Learn about Berlin’s most famous street food at this small but entertaining museum. Delve into Currywurst history, discover the secrets of its yellow sauce in the "spice chamber," and watch movies starring the delicious sausage. Daily 10am–8pm. €11/7, under-6s free. www.currywurstmuseum.de.

Schützenstr. 70. T: 030.88718647. U Kochstraße. E4

Domäne Dahlem City Farm A real farm in the Berlin suburbs, with a manor house from the 1600s, boasts farm grounds that are still in use, complete with all the usual barnyard animals. There’s also a small exhibition of ancient agricultural tools and a Saturday-morning farmers’ market. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm in summer. Farm: Free except during special events. Museum: €3/1.50. www.domaenedahlem.de. Königin-LuiseStr. 49. T: 030.6663000. U Dahlem Dorf. Off Map

Karls-Erlebnisdorf What began as a family-run strawberry farm has blossomed into an amusement park empire. With seven locations, including one just west of Berlin city limits, Karls Erlebnisdorf offers year-round fun for the whole family. Sample the famous Karl's strawberries and all sorts of berry treats, take a ride down the roller coaster or giant potato sack slide, and have all sorts of memorable adventures.

Open daily 8am–7pm. Price per activity varies. www.karls.de. Döberitzer Heide 1, 14641 Elstal.

T: 038.2024050. Off Map

Legoland Discovery Center Everything is built with the famous plastic bricks at this indoor Lego wonderland. There are videos explaining how Lego is made, a Lego factory, a 4D cinema with tactile effects, a Duplo village for the very little ones, and a medieval world with knights and dragons. Kids can build their own structures and try them out at the test center.

Daily 10am–6pm (last admission 5pm) except 24 Dec. Combined tickets with Madame Tussauds, Sea Life, and Berlin Dungeon available. www. legolanddiscoverycentre.de. Potsdamer Str. 4.

T: 01806.66690110. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Madame Tussauds Have your picture taken with Angela Merkel, Albert Einstein, One Direction, or a host of other famous names in entertainment and politics. And, yes, there's even a wax Adolf Hitler, depicted as a little man standing in despair in his bunker during his final days. Daily 10am–7pm (Aug until 8pm). €23.50/18.50, discounts if you book online.

Combined Berlin Dungeon, LEGOLAND, and Sea Life tickets available. www.madametussauds.com.

Unter den Linden 74. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

COURTESY OF KARLS ERLEBNISDORF

Sea Life & AquaDom

Potato Chips And Strawberry Marmalades Karls- Erlebnisdorf, the strawberry-themed amusement park just a few miles west of Spandau, is known for the constant updates and variations on its main theme. This month, Karls will be presenting their brand-new wooden roller coaster and a new potato exhibition, featuring potato-themed games for the little ones, a special menu for potato lovers, as well as the usual myriad of strawberries for all. www.karls.de

Dazzling clownfish, scary sharks, crawling spider crabs, and lovely seahorses are just some of the 5,000 creatures inhabiting this small but interesting aquarium. Discover the ethereal dance of the jellyfish and observe the eagle rays on your way to the Aquadom, a 16-m-tall cylindrical tropical fish tank that can be viewed from a slow elevator. Daily 10am–7pm. €17.50/12.50 (discounts when booking online). Under-3s free. Combined tickets with Madame Tussauds, Berlin Dungeon, and Legoland also available. www.visitsealife.com.

Spandauer Str. 3. S Hackescher Markt, S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Tempelhof Airport Park MUST SEE What used to be the city’s most central airport is now a four-hectare (10-acre) public park

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SIGHTSEEING

Tiergarten Park

1

To see what the Wall really looked like in all its gray and intimidating might, visit its last remaning untouched stretch at the Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer, between Nordbahnhof and U Bernauer Straße.

2 3

For a more colorful stretch of the infamous barrier, check out the mural paintings on the East Side Gallery (S+U Warschauer Str.), painted by artists in the early 1990s.

Those running short on time can admire a still-standing portion of the Berlin Wall without leaving the center, on the western side of the Topographie des Terrors grounds in Niederkirchnerstraße.

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If you want a more emotional Wall experience, artist Yagedar Asisi did a fantastic job recreating the Wall atmospheres, views, and noises on an October day in 1980 in his Wall Panorama installation in Friedrichstraße (www.asisi.de).

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Now that you’ve seen the main views, go pro by examining the rest of the Wall at the so-called “Wall cemetery,” an abandoned field in Teltow (Oderstraße, S Teltow Stadt then bus X1), just outside of Berlin, where the city placed dozens of remaining Wall slabs, some artfully painted, some gray, all surrounded by overgrown grass.

40 W H E R E B E R L I N I M AY 2018

Choose from a score of music-themed tours, including a visit to the famous Hansa Studios, a musical walk through Prenzlauer Berg, a David Bowie journey, and a classic trek through the colorful history of Berlin music.

Booking required. From €12. www.musictours-berlin.com.

Created as hunting grounds for the Electors of Brandenburg, the park we know today was designed in the early 1800s by landscape architect Peter Joseph Lenné and includes a pond with boat rentals and a café, as well as many pleasant trails to explore. The park also houses a zoo, a number of embassies, and the Schloss Bellevue, the residence of the President of Germany.

S Tiergarten, S Bellevue. C3, D3

CooLTourings Segway Tours

POTSDAM

Comfort comes first on Fat Tire Tours, whose company concept was created around its curvy bicycles with soft seats, individually adjusted handlebars, and, obviously, fat tires. Tour themes vary. The all-in-one city bike tour is particularly popular. Times vary seasonally. Call ahead in winter. From €25. www.fattirebiketours.com.

Panoramastr. 1a.

T: 030.24047991.

Biosphäre Potsdam

A compact guide to the five most important Berlin Wall sites.

Berlin Music Tours

This tropical indoor garden features a greenhouse with more than 20,000 plants, including a palm grove and mangrove swamp, as well as animals such as iguanas, parrots, geckos, frogs, and butterflies. Daily Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, from 10am on weekends and holidays. €11.50/9.80. Under-3s free. www.biosphaere-potsdam.de. Georg-HalemannAllee 99. T: 0331.550740. Tram 96 from Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

Filmpark Babelsberg In the early 1900s, the Babelsberg film studios produced some of the most important films of the silent era, including Metropolis, until the facilities were taken over by the Nazi regime to produce political propaganda. Today, the studios are still in use, but part of the complex has been turned into a theme park, with old sets, stuntmen, special effects, and children’s sections dedicated to popular TV characters. Daily 10am–6pm from April to October, closed Mon in May and on Mon and Tues in September, on 6 and 13 October. €21/14, under-4s free. www.filmpark-babelsberg.de.

Grossbeerenstr., Potsdam-Babelsberg.

T: 0331.7212750.

S Griebnitzsee. Off Map

Sanssouci MUST SEE The sumptuous Rococo castle of Potsdam's Sanssouci was commissioned in 1745 by Frederick the Great, who wanted "a place to be without cares." The king of Prussia employed the finest architects of the day to design the Baroque park, the Schloß placed above terraced vineyards, the more sober New Palace, and a few other pavilions scattered in the park. Daily 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm); Mon closed. €15/11. www.spsg.de. An der Orangerie 1, Potsdam.

T: 0331.9694200. S Potsdam or regional train from Zoologischer Garten to Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

TOURS & WALKS Berliner Unterwelten (Underground Tours) Since 1997, the Berlin Underworlds Association has been offering regular tours of underground structures and subterranean complexes that are otherwise inaccessible. Cold War nuclear shelters, Hitler’s underground fortress, escape routes to the West, and WWII bunkers are just some of the adventures on offer. From €10. www.berliner-unterwelten.de. Brunnenstr. 105.

T: 030.49910517.

Covering Berlin’s top 20 sightseeing highlights, CooLTourings takes individual visitors or large groups on an exciting ride aboard a Segway, a fun and fast way to explore the city. www.seg-berlin-ways.de.

T: 0179.3585390.

Fat Tire Bike Tours

Original Berlin Walks Offering eight themed walking tours in summer and four in the winter. Themes include the Third Reich, Jewish life in Berlin, Potsdam, the Cold War, gay Berlin, and Christmas markets (in December).

No advance booking required, just show up at the meeting point shortly before the tour begins. www.berlinwalks.de.

Neue Bahnhofstr. 9-10.

T: 030.3019194.

Trabi World For a quintessential Berlin tour experience, hop inside real Trabants, the iconic cars of the former GDR. Visitors drive their personal Trabis, while, via the car’s radio, the group leader provides historical and quirky facts. Three different tours available. €30-50. www.trabi-world.de. Zimmerstr.

97. T: 030.30201030.orate one mile of the Wall's eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery.

Mühlenstraße.

S+U Warschauer Straße, S Ostbahnhof. G4

RIVER TRIPS Exclusiv Yachtcharter This boat tour company offers yacht and luxury boat tours around Berlin, including a bridge tour and many different cruises through Berlin’s network of canals and lakes. www.exclusiv-yachtcharter.de.

T: 030.43666836.

Reederei Riedel Fourteen ships take visitors on 1-, 1.5-, and 3-hour cruises of the city’s canals and rivers. www.reederei-riedel.de. T: 030.67961470.

Stern und Kreis Schiffahrt Choose from 30 different boat tours along the city’s rivers and canals, including bus-boat combination tours of the Brandenburg region. buchung.sternundkreis.de.

T: 030.5363600.

© ISTOCK

WALL BASICS

whose six kilometers (3.75 miles) of runways are used for cycling, skating, and a variety of other sports. This is where many Berliners spend their weekends, bringing BBQ equipment or just picnicking on the grass while their kids fly colorful kites. Tempelhofer Damm. S Tempelhof, U Platz der Luftbrücke, U Boddinstraße. Off Map

THE GUIDE | MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

CAROLIN SCHULZE, HASE AUS EINER MEHLWURMPASTE, 2014, © CAROLIN SCHULZE; HANAN ALKOUH, SEA-MEAT SEEWEED, 2016, MODELLEUR: NILOUFAR ESFANDIARY, © HANAN ALKOUH; JOHANNA SCHMEER, BIOPLASTIC FANTASTIC, 2014, © JOHANNA SCHMEER; AUSTIN STEWART, SECOND LIVESTOCK, 2014, © AUSTIN STEWART; KLAUS PICHLER, SCHOKOLADENKEKSE, AUS DER FOTOSERIE „ONE THIRD“, 2010-2012, © KLAUS PICHLER

Some of the futuristic food concepts on display at the Food Revolution 5.0 exhibition.

The Food Of The Future The Food Revolution 5.0 exhibition at the Kunstgewerbemuseum made Solveig Steinhardt really hungry for a healthy and sustainable meal.

Food not only keeps us alive and healthy, it also creates identity and unites people.

We use it to celebrate important moments, and its combinations of flavors help us understand other cultures and places in the world. But it’s not an infinite resource.

In our consumer society, globalized food production has a negative impact on nature and the CO2 emissions it generates are accelerating climate change. Therefore, our eating choices are now more important than ever. What will food be like in the future?

How can we contribute to shaping a new, sustainable food system?

There are many different ways to look at the problem, and this month the Kunstgewerbemuseum of Decorative Arts will present various perspectives through the works of 30 artists and designers who have explored the theme of food transformation.

Opening on 18 May, the exhibition Food Revolution 5.0 will present artistic concepts and ideas suggesting best practices in food

production and consumption, transforming the Kulturforum’s piazza into an edible garden where visitors can relax and even harvest their salad or prepare their own food while reflecting upon responsible eating.

After all, there’s no better place than Berlin to get a taste of this food transformation. The German capital is a hub for vegans, vegetarians, and people who simply care about responsible eating. And while restaurants experiment with new, more sustainable sources of proteins, such as chia seeds, acai berries, and even insects (check out www.mikrokosmosberlin.com for Berlin’s edible insect stand at Markthalle Neun), startup ECM Farm (www.ecf-farm.de) uses aquaponic technology to grow basil and farm fish right in the middle of the city. The process is so interesting, they even offer guided tours of their greenhouses, and you'll find their products (mainly herbs, sprouts, and salad leaves) growing on vertical gardens at some Rewe supermarkets. For even more inspiration, head to InFarm (Glogauerstr. 6, www.infarm.de), which provides a taste of the indoor farming experience and even seminars for those who want to set up their own home farm. www.wheretraveler.com 41

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

MUSEUMS Altes Museum Berlin’s collection of classical antiquities, housed inside a breathtaking Neoclassical building. Take in the mosaic floor of Hadrian’s villa, a wealth of Greek sculptures, and a number of Etruscan and Roman finds. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Alte Nationalgalerie A splendorous collection of 19th-century art. To 13 Jul: Concordia - Art and Science in Harmony. Leo von Klenze and Karl Richard Lepsius. Two artists' work that fused archaeology with art. From 10 May: Wanderlust. From Caspar David Friedrich to Auguste Renoir. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6 with exhibition, €10/5 museum only. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1–3.

T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

The Canvas As A Mirror

An extensive collection of Old Masters’ paintings, a section dedicated to ancient coins, and many works of Roman and Byzantine art adorn the museum’s impressive interior, built by Ernst von Ihne in 1904. To 31 Jan: Two Camels and a Saint.

The Antique Pilgrimage Site of Abu Mina in Egypt. An exploration of the ancient pilgrimage site. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.smb.museum. Am Kupfergraben.

T: 030.266424242. U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Bröhan Museum Starting in 1966, collector Karl Bröhan amassed hundreds of Art Nouveau and Art Deco objects and various paintings from the Berlin Secessionist movement. Browse through pieces of furniture, housewares, ceramics, and glassware from this fascinating artistic period. To 17 Jun: Berlin Realism.

Käthe Kollwitz to Otto Dix. Berlin Secession artists critique Berlin's social situation from the 18901930s. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

DDR Museum Learn about daily life in the former East Germany at this hands-on museum. Closets filled with GDR (DDR in German) fashion and a Trabant (the GDR car) are just some of the items on display, while photographs illustrate Communist habits, such as collectively potty-training babies or going on nudist holidays. Mon–Sun 10am–8pm, Sat until 10pm. €7/4. www.ddr-museum.de. KarlLiebknecht-Str. 1. T: 030.847123731.

S Hackescher Markt, U Alexanderplatz. E3

THE CITY SKYLINE

After serving in WWI as a ward assistant, Max Beckmann gained fame during the Weimar Republic for using his art to express the emotions of war he had witnessed.

Although known for his haunting self-portraits, Beckmann also frequently depicted scenes of the theater, circus, and music halls, worlds slightly removed from reality.

Decadence, fear, mystery, and redemption were frequent themes in his work. The intensity in Beckmann’s scenes mirror the political turmoil of the first half of the 20th century, especially after 1937, when he was exiled. Max Beckmann: The World as a Stage, showing at the Museum Barberini Potsdam, displays the artist’s dedication to capturing the changing Europe around him, uncertain and in flux. Until 10 June.

Humboldtstr. 5-6. 0331.236014499. www.museum-barberini.com.

Deutsches Historisches Museum MUST SEE Learn about the milestones in German

history from the Roman occupation of the Germanic areas to the present day. To 26 Aug: Saving – History of a German Virtue. Exploring how saving became a behavior linked to Germany. Daily 10am–6pm. €8/4 (under-18s free). www.dhm.de. Unter den Linden 2.

T: 030.203040. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Deutsches Technikmuseum MUST SEE At the museum for all things technology, the old locomotives and aviation rooms are the most popular attractions, while a Rosinenbomber, a 1948 Berlin Airlift aircraft, is mounted on the museum’s roof. A hands-on section allows kids to conduct experiments. To 31 Jul: Cars from the Depot on Show. Showing more

than 200 cars, from 1923-1987. To 2 Sep: Seamarks!

Highlights of Orientation Along Germany's Coasts. A presentation of how seafarers found their direction on the sea. Mon–Fri 9am–5:30pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €8/4. www.sdtb.de. rebbiner Str. 9. T: 030.902540.

U Möckernbrücke, U Gleisdreieck. E4

Erlebnis Europa Experience Europe in the heart of Berlin! Take a seat in their 360° cinema for a plenary session of the European Parliament, take on the role of a Commissioner of the European Union in their simulation game, discover EU members states with facts and figures and stories from daily life, or simply take a European happy snap to send home. All in 24 European languages. Open daily 10am–6pm. Free Admission. www.erlebnis-europa.

BECKMANN: COURTESY OF BARBERINI MUSEUM. BERLIN SKYLINE: ©ISTOCK.

Bode Museum

A HISTORIC TIMELINE OF BERLIN’S ARCHITECTURE

1906

1920s

1927

1951

1957

1968

Hackesche Höfe: The fully restored courtyards are a prime example of Altbau architecture.

Onkel Toms Hütte: Bauhaus architect Taut created an airy estate in the Grunewald forest.

Tempelhof Airport: One of Europe’s three iconic pre-WWII airports, rebuilt by the Nazis in the 1930s.

Karl-Marx-Allee: The highrises here were designed to reflect the grandeur of the socialist regime.

Haus der Kulturen der Welt: An example of West Berlin’s post-war modern style.

Neue Nationalgalerie: Mies van der Rohe’s museum was part of the city’s redevelopment.

42 W H E R E B E R L I N I M AY 2018

Märkisches Museum

eu. Unter den Linden 78. T: 030 22802900.

S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Documents, photos, books, and weapons walk visitors through 750 years of Berlin history in a neo-Gothic setting. To 14 Sep: BIZIM BERLIN 89/90.

Photographs by Ergun Çagatay. Photographic documents of the German Reunification through the lens of Berlin's Turkish population Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €6/4 (under-18s free; free entry first Wed of month). www.stadtmuseum.de.

Am Köllnischen Park 5.

T: 030.24002162. U Märkisches Museum. F3

Ephraim Palais Temporary exhibitions on local cultural history fill this great Baroque building. Demolished in 1935, the Palais was rebuilt in 1983 using its original façade, which had been stored in a warehouse for almost 50 years. Open Tue, Thu–Sun 10am–6pm, Wed noon-8pm. €7/5 (under 18s free, first Wed of month free entry). www.stadtmuseum.de. Poststr.

16. T: 030.24002162. U Alexanderplatz. F3 Kreuzberg enthusiasts can learn more about the history and radical legacy of this legendary neighborhood at this small museum housed in a typical red-brick building. Open Wed–Sun noon– 6pm. www.kreuzbergmuseum.de. Adalbertstr. 95a.

T: 030.50585233. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

The Gay Museum (Schwules Museum) One of the world’s largest and most significant institutions for archiving, researching, and communicating the history and culture of LGBTQ communities. Changing exhibitions take diverse approaches to lesbian, gay, transsexual, bisexual, and queer biographies and concepts in history, art, and culture. Sun–Mon, Wed–Fri 2–6pm, Thu 2–8pm, Sat 2–7pm. €6/4. www.schwulesmuseum. de. Lützowstr. 73. T: 030.69599050.

U Nollendorfplatz. D4

photography exhibition spaces and an important example of early 20th-century architecture, the imposing building combines Italian Renaissance elements with local features, such as mosaics of allegorical figures. From 25 May: Philippe Parreno.

Using the exhibition as a medium exploring light, sound, and image. To 22 Jul: Covered in Time and History: The Films of Ana Mendieta. Using the female form to explore body art, the environment, and nature. To Feb 2019: Wu Tsang. Her year-long residency explores states between documentary and fiction. Wed–Mon 10am–7pm. Prices vary by exhibition. www.gropiusbau.de.

Niederkirchnerstr. 7. T: 030.254860.

U Kochstraße. E4

Menschen Museum

Jewish Museum MUST SEE Daniel Libeskind’s architectural jewel,

shaped as a deconstructed Star of David, explores millennia of German Jewish history, including the alternating glories and persecutions of the community. To 30 Apr 2019: Welcome to Jerusalem.

An exploration of Jerusalem through time and religions. Daily 10am–8pm, Mon until 10pm. €8/3. www.jmberlin.de. Lindenstr. 9-14. T: 030.25993300.

U Hallesches Tor, U Kochstraße. E4

The internationally popular touring exhibition Body Worlds showcased anatomist Gunther von Hagens’ plastination process, which preserves body parts and reveals their inner structures. The permanent Berlin exhibition shows 200 body parts amd 20 whole-body preparations, focusing on specific organs and diseases. Daily 10am–7pm. www.memu.berlin. Panoramaplatz 1.

S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Museum Barberini Potsdam

Introduces the powerful and tortured art of one of the most relevant German women artists of the last century. Her primary focus was the daily struggles of the poor and the tragedy of war.

Featuring works from Kollwitz’s most intensive and emotionally-charged years. Daily 11am–6pm. €6/3. www.kaethe-kollwitz.de. Fasanenstr. 24.

T: 030.8825210. U Uhlandstraße. C4

Located in a reconstructed palace in the historic center of Potsdam, this museum houses the collection of founder and patron Hasso Plattner.

Exhibitions range from Old Masters to contemporary art with a focus on impressionism.

With the Barberini App you can choose your own audio tour. Wed–Mon 10am–7pm. €14/10 (€8 after 6pm; kids and students free).

Alter Markt, Humboldtstr. 5–6.

T: 0331 236014499. Off Map

Kupferstichkabinett

Museum Berggruen

Käthe Kollwitz Museum

MUST SEE With a collection begun in 1652 by the

Great Elector and works dating back to medieval times, the institute known in English as the Museum of Prints and Drawings boasts 150,000+ pieces, including masterpieces by Botticelli, Dürer, and Goya. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 11am– 6pm. €6/3. www.smb.museum. Matthäikirchplatz.

T: 030.266424242. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

permanen

MUST SEE One of the city’s best art and

MUST SEE A can’t-miss for Picassophiles. The Spanish painter is the star of this Charlottenburg museum, which boasts dozens of rooms filled with his paintings. The collection encompasses 75 years works by Matisse, Klee, Giacometti, Van Gogh, Cézanne, and many more. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 1.

T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

1990s

1999

2001

2014

Potsdamer Platz: The former heart of Berlin. Famed architects worked for years to rebuild the bustling square.

Reichstag Dome: The glass dome atop Germany’s parliament offers 360-degree views.

Jewish Museum: Libeskind designed a crooked star to symbolize the difficult history of German Jews.

Bikini-Haus: The 1957 building has now been renovated as part of West Berlin’s comeback.

(worth

2,80 €)

open daily:

Jan - Jun 12 p.m. - 8 p.m.

Jul - Aug 10 a.m. - 8 p.m.

Sep - Dec 12 p.m. - 8 p.m.

(24th December closed)

Last entrance: 7 p.m.

Potsdamer Platz entrance: Leipziger Platz 7 Hômmage á S. Dalí by DaVial

Friedrichshain-Kreuzberg Museum

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE

l museum Internatiotna exhibition

Martin-Gropius-Bau

2707

3360

Infos: 0700 - 325 423 75**| Tickets: www.DaliBerlin.de

(**0,14 €/ Min. from a landline, mobile communications vary, max 0,42 €/ Min.) *only in combination with the entrance fee. Cannot be combined with other offers.

Valid until July, 31st 2018.

With over 450 exhibits from private collections this permanent exhibition provides general insight into Dalí’s virtuous mastery in almost all art techniques in Berlin’s lively city centre.

www.daliberlin.de

The Network

People, Cables, Data Streams

An exhibition about the networked world For explorers!

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Trebbiner Str. 9, 10963 Berlin | Entrance Ladestrasse | Möckernstr. 26 | www.sdtb.de

www.wheretraveler.com 43

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Museum of Musical Instruments A fascinating collection of ancient and modern musical instruments, including bagpipes, harpsichords, and instruments once owned by celebrities. Check the website for the weekly demonstrations of the most impressive musical machines, such as a silent film-era cinema organ.

Open Tue, Wed, Fri 9am–5pm, Thu 9am–8pm, Sat & Sun 10am–5pm. €6/3 (under 18s free). www.sim. spk-berlin.de. Tiergartenstr. 1. T: 030.254810.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Museum of Photography

Rathaus Schöneberg is most often remembered as the site of President John F. Kennedy’s now-infamous “Ich bin ein Berliner“ speech in 1963. But the town hall building is also very much worth a visit for its Wir Waren Nachbarn (“We Were Neighbors”) exhibition, which extensively documents the stories of what was Berlin’s more popular Jewish areas in the 1930s. When the Nazis seized power, around 16,000 Jews lived in this district, comprising more than 7% of Schöneberg’s population. The centerpiece of the moving exhibition is a display of 159 albums, which use letters, photographs, archival documents, and numerous witness statements from local residents to tell the stories of Schönebergers who were forced to flee, go underground, or were killed. Amongst the names are some you will likely recognize, like Albert Einstein, photographer Helmut Newton, and poet-playwright Nelly Sachs.

Lining the walls are handwritten name cards commemorating each of the thousands who lost their lives. Open Mon-Thurs and Sat–Sun 10am–6pm; free entry.

John-F.-Kennedy-Platz 1. www.wirwarennachbarn.de

Museum of Communication An entertaining journey through the history of communication inside the neo-Baroque building that once hosted Berlin’s post office museum. Robots welcome visitors and iPads make perfect tour guides through the most intriguing steps in the development of postal and telephone communication, all the way to the era of information technology. Open Tue 9am–8pm, Wed–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat & Sun 10am–6pm. €4/2. www.mfk-berlin.de. Leipziger Str. 16. T: 030.202940.

U Mohrenstraße, Stadtmitte. E3

Museum of Musical Instruments A fascinating collection of ancient and modern musical instruments, including bagpipes, harpsichords, and instruments once owned by celebrities. Check the website for the weekly demonstrations of the most impressive musical machines, such as a silent film-era cinema organ.

Open Tue, Wed, Fri 9am–5pm, Thu 9am–8pm, Sat & Sun 10am–5pm. €6/3 (under 18s free). www.sim.spk-berlin.de. Tiergartenstr. 1.

T: 030.254810. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Museum für Naturkunde Home to the world’s largest dinosaur skeleton, the natural history museum also features extensive collections of shells, insects, and prize-winning mounted animal dioramas. Tue– Fri 9:30–6pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3. www. museumfuernaturkunde.berlin. Invalidenstr. 43.

T: 030.20938591. U Naturkundemuseum. E2

Neues Museum

The exhibition Mies in Berlin (www. rosa-luxemburg-platz.net) presents some of the works and ideas of the late German-American architect.

44 W H E R E B E R L I N I M AY 2018

MUST SEE The 3300-year-old bust of Queen Nefertiti is the museum’s top attraction. Examine a world-famous Egyptian collection that includes many important papyruses, while hundreds of artifacts relate early human history. Badly damaged during WWII and left abandoned until the 1980s, the museum reopened in 2009. To 7 Oct: Margiana. A Bronze Age Kingdom in Turkmenistan.

Objects from the ancient kingdom, shown for the first time outside of Turkmenistan. To 29 Sep: The

MIES IN BERLIN: STUHL NR. 4, KINDERSTÜHLE, STAHLROHR, LACK, GUMMI, PRIVATSAMMLUNG; RATHAUS SCHÖNEBERG PHOTO BY HILDA HOY.

Gone, But Not Forgotten

Diverse and comprehesive exhibitions curated from the Berlin Art Library’s vast photographic collection are housed in a Neoclassical 1909 building built for the Prussian army’s officer corps, whose lower two floors are occupied by the Helmut Newton Foundation. To 21 May: Image Spaces: Biology and Building. Exploring the relationship between biology, technology, and architecture. To 3 Jun: Sigrid Neubert. Photographs: Architecture and Nature. A retrospective showcasing Neubert's crisp and high-contrast images. To 13 May: Guy Bourdin. Image Maker / Helmut Newton.

A Gun for Hire / Angelo Marino. Another Story. The trio's legacy and mastery shown together for the first time. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum.

Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.266424242. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3–C4

Girl with Tobacco on Tongue (Mary Jane Russell), New York, 1951 © Condé Nast

I RV I N G P E N N CEN T EN N I A L DER JAHRHUNDERTFOTOGRAF 24 . 0 3 .— — 0 1 . 0 7. 2 0 1 8 www.co-berlin.org

MUSEUMSINSEL BERLIN, ALTE NATIONALGALERIEWANDERLUST. VON CASPAR DAVID FRIEDRICH BIS AUGUSTE RENOIR10. MAI – 16. SEPTEMBER 2018CASPAR DAVID FRIEDRICH, WANDERER ÜBER DEM NEBELMEER, UM 1817, © SHK/HAMBURGER KUNSTHALLE/BPK, FOTO: ELKE WALFORD

Caspar David Friedrich was one of the greatest representatives of the Romantic Sturm und Drang movement, based on the expression of strong, tumultuous emotions and a return to nature. The exhibition Wanderlust. From Caspar David Friedrich to Auguste Renoir, opening on 10 May at the Alte Nationalgalerie (p. 42), focuses on his and other artists' travel-themed works.

Berliner Festspiele

Gropius Bau 20.4.– 22.7.18

Crown of Kerch. Treasures from the Dawn of European History. Featuring gold jewelry from the Migration Period found near the Black Sea. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.neues-museum.de. Bodestr. 1-3.

T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Pergamon Museum One of Berlin’s main attractions, the Pergamon houses the outcome of Germany’s early-20thcentury archeology excavations. The imposing Ishtar Gate of Babylon with its glazed blue bricks Myletus, the reconstructed interiors of an Assyrian world. Altar room closed for restoration through 2019. To 8 Jul: A Gallery in a Book. Islamic Albums.

Beautiful drawings and calligraphy commissioned

by Mogul-era art lovers. www.smb.museum.

Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242.

S Hackescher Markt. E3

The German Spy Museum Delve into the world of espionage with two floors of interactive exhibits covering some 3500 years of espionage history. Highlights include presentations on James Bond and other famous fictitious spies and a laser maze that tests your agility to break into – or out of – compromising locations. €12/8. Daily 10am-8pm. www.deutsches-

Covered in Time and History: Die Filme von

Ana Mendieta Mendieta, Untitled: Silueta, Series, 1978, Super 8 film, color, silent © The Estate of Ana Mendieta, Collection, LLC. Courtesy Galerie Lelong & Co

www.wheretraveler.com 45

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES spionagemuseum.de. Leipziger Platz 9.

S+U Potsdamer Platz E3

Stasi Museum © Stiftung Berliner Mauer, J. Hohmuth

The GDR’s Ministry of State Security, the Stasi, has been described as one of the most repressive intelligence and secret police agencies to ever have existed. Explore the agency’s headquarters and learn about their spying techniques, inc. cameras hidden in watering cans or inside fake trees. Open Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat & Sun noon–6pm. €5/4. www.stasimuseum.de. Ruschestr.

103. T: 030.5536854. U Magdalenenstraße. Off Map

ART GALLERIES Akademie der Künste Hanseatenweg The Berlin Art Academy’s long and prestigious history dates back to 1696. Today, this important exhibition space houses one of the most comprehensive interdisciplinary archives of 20thcentury art. Daily 11am–7pm. €6/4.). www.adk.de.

Hanseatenweg 10. T: 030.200572000. S Bellevue, U Hansaplatz. C3

DISCOVER THE ORIGINAL WALL! Bernauer Str. 119 | 13355 Berlin Tue – Sun 10 a.m. – 6 p.m. | Free admission Open Air Exhibition | Tours | Workshops www.berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de

Berlinische Galerie A modern art collection of 5000+ works of German and Eastern European paintings. To 20 Aug: Carsten Nicolai. Straddling the line between visual art and electronic sound. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm. €8/5 (€10/7 during exhibitions). www.berlinischegalerie.de. Alte Jakobstr.

124-128. T: 030.78902600.

U Hallesches Tor. E4

Brücke Museum Founded in Dresden in 1905, the Die Brücke movement drew inspiration from primitive art and expressed extreme emotion and political opposition through lively, exaggerated color. This museum explores the history of the movement through the paintings of artists like Nolde, Kirchner, Heckel, and many more. Open Wed– Mon 11am–5pm. €5/3. www.bruecke-museum.de.

Bussardsteig 9. T: 030.8312029. U Oskar-HeleneHeim. Off Map

C/O Berlin MUST SEE Contemporary art and photography has finally reopened in the Amerika Haus, which housed the American library during the Cold War era. To 1 July: Irving Penn. Celebrating the photographer’s 100th birthday with over 240 featured works. Daily 11am–8pm. €10/5. www.co-berlin.org Hardenbergstr. 22–24.

T: 030.28444160. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Dalí – The Exhibition The permanent exhibit features more than 400 works, most from private collections, by the Surrealist painter, with a focus on drawing, illustration, and film. Dalí fans explore new perspectives of the artist’s life and work. Daily noon–8pm (10am–8pm in summer). €12.50. www.daliberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 7.

Toll number: 0700.3254237546.

U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Deutsche Bank KunstHalle With an emphasis on paper and photography, the Deutsche Bank’s art collection is a stroll along the timeline of modern art. Every year, the bank pays tribute to young artists by organizing an international prize. Daily 10am–8pm. €4/3. www. deutsche-bank-kunsthalle.de. Unter den Linden 13/15. T: 030.2020930. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3 46 W H E R E B E R L I N I M AY 2018

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Gemäldegalerie – Old Masters Painting Gallery MUST SEE One of the finest collections of European art from the 13th to the 18th centuries.

Lots of Dutch and Flemish painters, including Rembrandt and Vermeer, and a vast collection of Italian Renaissance art, including Botticelli, Titian, and Canaletto. To 16 Jun: Views of the Sea. Dutch Drawings from the Barthold Suermondt Collection.

Works highlighting life on water at the Rhein, Meuse, and Scheldt rivers. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Matthäikirchplatz 50.

T: 030.266424242. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Sammlung Boros No more than 12 guests at a time can visit this former Nazi bunker turned art gallery. Collector Chistian Boros bought the historic building in 2003 to fill it up with contemporary art by artists like Damien Hirst, Olafur Eliasson, and more.

Open by appointment only (book online). €12. www.sammlung-boros.de.

Reinhardtstr. 20.

T: 030.27594065.

S+U Friedrichstraße. E2/E3

collection. Erika herself shows visitors around her art-packed apartment on Saturdays between 11am and 4pm. €10. www.sammlung-hoffmann.de.

Sophie-Gips-Höfe, Aufgang C, Sophienstr. 21.

T: 030.28499120.

S Hackescher Markt. F2

Sammlung Scharf-Gerstenberg

The Scharf-Gerstenberg collection houses three floors of works by some of the giants of Surrealism, including Paul Klee, Max Ernst, Salvador Dalí, and René Magritte. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, Sammlung Hoffmann Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum.

An old sewing factory behind the Hackesche Höfe Schloßstr. 70. T: 030.266424242.

Beckmann_WhereBerlin_Barberini.qxp_Layout 1 09.04.18 13:26 Seite 1 now contains Rolf and Erika Hoffmann’s private U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

An idyllic garden houses the former studio of German Secessionist artist Georg Kolbe, who used the human body as an expression of the human spirit, challenging the role of sculpture as a representation of mythological or heroic symbolism. The museum displays a wide selection of works and hosts frequent exhibitions.

To 17 Jun: The First Generation. Sculptors of the Berlin Modern. Featuring 60 works from the first generation of independent female sculptors.

Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3. www.georg-kolbemuseum.de. Sensburger Allee 25.

T: 030.3042144. S Heerstraße.

Helmut Newton Foundation Before dying in a car accident on Sunset Boulevard in 2004, the art photographer donated all of his work to his hometown of Berlin. Best known for his nude photography of American stars, Newton now has an entire museum dedicated to his oeuvre.

Tue–Sun 10am–6pm, Thu until 8pm. €10/5. www.helmutnewton.com. Jebensstr. 2.

T: 030.31864856. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

Liebermann Villa on Lake Wannsee CT L he former summer residence of artist Max Liebermann, co-founder and head of the German Secessionist movement. Before being dismissed and banned by the Nazis in 1933, Liebermann painted around 200 works in this villa, some of which are on display in his studio on the upper floor. €3 plus museum entry. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm (11am–5pm in winter). €7/4 (€6/4 in summer). www.liebermann-villa.de. Colomierstr. 3.

T: 030.80585900. S Wannsee. Off Map

me Collectors Room Thomas Olbricht created this space to bring together other international art collectors and to organize exhibitions, workshops, and concerts. The upper floor houses his “cabinet of curiosities.” To 27 Aug: Outlook: EVA & ADELE - L'AMOUR DU RISQUE. Presenting the artist couple's multi-medium work in the last 25 years. Tue–Sun noon–6pm. €7/4. www.me-berlin.com. Auguststr. 68. T: 030.86008510.

S Oranienburger Straße. E2

The World as a Stage

The permanent collection of this former railway station includes a selection of works from the Friedrich Christian Flick Collection, and the many temporary exhibitions focus on painting and sculpture from the past 50 years, as well as videos, music, and design. To 26 Aug: Hello World.

Revisioning a Collection. A critical relook at the Nationalgalerie's western-focused storytelling.

Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €14/7. www.smb.museumInvalidenstr.

50-51. T: 030.266424242. U Naturkundemuseum, S Hauptbahnhof. D2

Max Beckmann

Hamburger Bahnhof

February 24 to June 10, 2018

Off Map

Max Beckmann: Actors: Triptych (central panel), 1941/42, Harvard Art Museums/Fogg Museum, Cambridge, MA, gift Lois Orswell, © VG Bild-Kunst, Bonn 2018, Photo: Imaging Department, © President and Fellows of Harvard College

Georg-Kolbe-Museum

www.wheretraveler.com 47

DINING | THE GUIDE This photo and right: TISK; Below right and inset: Salt n Bone.

Pub Grub, Revisited Michelin-starred fine dining is a fine thing on special occasions, but the rest of the time, I far prefer a more laid-back, down-toearth experience. Not that laid-back has to equal lower-quality food. This is where the gastropub comes in, holding great food, great drink, and the convivial atmosphere of a pub in equally high esteem. What’s not to like?

Though pub menus were once known for solid classics like fish and chips and burgers, the culinary bar has been raised ever higher.

These days, you’re just as likely to find gastropub menus that get creative with high-end, seasonal ingredients – like St. Bart (Graefestr. 71, www.stbartpub.com), which just opened late last year in one of Kreuzberg’s coziest neighborhoods. The compact, dedicated menu changes seasonally, comprising a variety of mains as well as smaller mix-and-match plates, both carnivore48 W H E R E B E R L I N I M AY 2018

and vegetarian-friendly. Feast on buttermilk fried chicken, shaved fennel and kohlrabi salad, or steak and ale pie while drinking your way through the high-caliber beer and wine list. The St. Bart Sunday roast, with beef shin, whole roast chicken, or nut loaf for the meat-averse, is the nicest way to wind up a weekend.

On the other side of the city you’ll find two Dubliners running Salt n Bone (Schliemannstr. 31, www.saltnbone.de), bringing the great gastropub tradition of their home country to Prenzlauer Berg. They’ve assembled a top assortment of craft beers on tap and a menu of creative cocktails, such as The Auld Dubliner, with Irish whiskey, Guinness syrup, and a couple dashes of molasses and orange bitters. The Salt n Bone Scotch egg, a classic pub snack, is a must-try: a soft-boiled egg wrapped in savory sausage meat, then breaded and fried ‘til crispy. Or pair

a tall beer with a side of “beerkhins” – fried, beerbattered gherkin pickles. After the snacking course is over, move on to main dishes like good old fish and chips, slow-braised ribs in a bourbon-cola glaze, and a selection of delicious burgers.

And just to remind us that Germany has its own gastropub tradition too, there’s Neukölln’s newly opened TISK (Neckarstr. 12, www.tisk-speisekneipe.de). The look leans toward hip and modern and the menu does too, putting German comfort-food classics into the contemporary spotlight. Open with cured mackerel and cucumber salad or crisp blood sausage croquettes with smoked apple puree, before digging into a whole roast chicken with mashed potatoes and gravy – an old favorite that never goes out of style.

COURTESY OF SALT N BONE AND TISK.

Hilda Hoy can be found down at the local gastropub, feasting on something delicious.

FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

DINING KEY Alc (à la carte): Prices are per person for three courses (excl. drinks) €: under €15. €€: €15–€40. €€€: €40–€80. €€€€: over €80. Restaurants listed in Fine Dining have at least one Michelin star. Letter/ number codes correspond to map at back of book.

Recommended by Die Goldenen Schlüssel Deutschland e.V./U.I.C.H. Les Clefs d’Or.

FINE DINING For a complete list of Berlin's Michelin-starred restaurants, visit wheretraveler.com/berlin.

5 – Cinco by Paco Pérez Catalan star chef Paco Pérez’s very first endeavor outside Spain is this Michelin-starred restaurant in Das Stue Hotel. His aim is to tickle all five senses with avant-garde taste experiences that take full advantage of the flavors and ingredients of his home country. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.5-cinco.com. Drakestr. 1.

T: 030.3117220. S Tiergarten. C3

Facil Situated in a glass atrium of The Mandala Hotel and ringed by the courtyard’s trees, Facil has mastered understated elegance in both its décor and cuisine. Double-Michelin-starred chef Michael Kempf is particularly masterful with seafood when creating his fine menus. €€€€. Mon–Fri L&D. www.facil.de. Potsdamer Str. 3.

T: 030.590051234.

S Potsdamer Platz. D3

Fischers Fritz Pure, straightforward luxury is the formula at this restaurant in the Regent Berlin Hotel. One of just a handful of Berlin restaurants to earn two Michelin stars, Fischers Fritz will not fail to impress with its elevated cuisine and finely honed service. €€€€.

Daily B, humuD. www.fischersfritzberlin.com.

Charlottenstr. 49. T: 030.20336363.

U Französische Straße. E3

awarded a Michelin star in 2013. Meat dishes made from local game are a highlight. €€€. Daily L&D, closed Sun and Mon. www.paulysaal.com.

Auguststr. 11–13. T: 030.33006070. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Reinstoff

famed personal take on Peking duck. €€€€. Tue– Sat L&D. www.tim-raue.com. Rudi-Dutschke-Str. 26. T: 030.25937930.

U Kochstraße. E4

ASIAN

Chef Daniel Achilles didn’t earn two Michelin stars Gagans by playing it safe. The two nightly dinner menus Indian. Just a five-minute walk from the at Reinstoff – one focused on regional Kurfürstendamm shopping boulevard, tastes, the other incorporating Gagans serves delicious North Indian influences from farther afield – are specialties every day of the week, successful experiments in exciting, including daily lunch specials and a avant-garde cuisine. €€€€. Tue–Sat Berliner Weisse is a pale plentiful all-you-can-eat buffet on D. www.reinstoff.eu. Schlegelstr. ale brewed only in the Sundays. A highlight are the sizzling 26c. T: 030.30881214. capital and usually meat dishes roasted the traditional U Naturkundemuseum, served with a shot of way in a clay tandoor oven. €€. Daily S Nordbahnhof. E2 syrup.

L&D. Rutz www.gagans.de. Uhlandstr. 149.

Wine bar, wine shop, and restaurant in T: 030 37470302. U Spichernstraße. B4–C4. one, Rutz offers perfectly paired meals by Chef India Club Marco Müller, whose six-, eight-, and 10-course Indian. Just steps away from the Brandenburg “Inspiration Menus” combine simple yet diverse Gate is this luxurious hideaway for high-end North ingredients into creative taste sensations. €€€€.

Indian cuisine, boasting an ambience that is both Tue–Sun D. www.rutz-weinbar.de. Chausseestr. 8. elegant and colorful.

T: 030.24628760. U Oranienburger Tor. E4 A renowned chef flown in from New Delhi lends Skykitchen his masterful touch to the menu of extravagantly Part of the andel’s Hotel, Skykitchen brings a spiced specialties. €€€. Daily D. welcome touch of luxury to the Lichtenberg district www.india-club-berlin.com. Behrenstr. 72. and was accordingly crowned with a Michelin star T: 030.20628610. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3 in 2014. Try chef Alexander Koppe’s four-course Jolly “From Berlin to the Sea” regional menu for modern takes on traditional favorites. €€€. Tue–Sat Chinese. Just across the water from Museum Island, Jolly’s location couldn’t be better for a tasty D. www.vi-hotels.com. Landsberger Allee 106.

Chinese meal in between sightseeing stops. Bring T: 030.4530532620. an appetite to try as many of the steamed dim S Landsberger Allee. H2 sum dumplings as possible before moving on to Tim Raue the menu’s extensive variety of Sichuan-style and From his humble beginnings growing up in Cantonese dishes. Traditional Peking duck is the Kreuzberg, Tim Raue has become one of the besthouse specialty. €€. Daily L&D. known culinary names in Berlin. Plumbing the Far www.restaurant-jolly.de. Am Kupfergraben 4–4a.

East for inspiration, his namesake restaurant serves T: 030.20059500. refined interpretations of Asian cuisine, such as his S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Golvet Modern European. With its spacious terrace, classy lounge, and sweeping cityscape views, Golvet is much more than a restaurant – it's also a prime spot for taking in the sunset with an aperitif in hand.

The ambiance of sleek Nordic-inspired style pairs perfectly with the menu of high-end European fusion dishes €€. Tues–Sat D. www.golvet.de. Potsdamer Str. 58, 8th floor. T: 030.89064222. S Tiergarten. D4

Panama (Potsdamer Str. 91, www.ohpanama.com) serves contemporary fusion dishes in a bright, breezy space.

PANAMA © PHILIPP LANGENHEIM AND CORINNA SCHADENDORF.

Horváth Austria-born chef Sebastian Frank built a reputation – and earned a Michelin star – with his highly creative, oftentimes minimalist use of seasonal ingredients, from sunchokes to candied parsley root to spruce needles. Wooden interior and lovely outdoor patio. €€€. Wed–Sun D. www.restaurant-horvath.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 44a.

T: 030.61289992. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer The Hotel Adlon restaurant boasts two Michelin stars and a well-earned spot in the upper echelon of Berlin’s finest restaurants. No detail is spared in the creation of an unforgettable dining experience. €€€€. Wed–Sat D. www.lorenzadlonesszimmer.de. Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2661196.

S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Pauly Saal The chic, hip décor is matched by a menu of equally creative German cuisine, which was www.wheretraveler.com 49

DINING Kimchi Princess

Sra Bua

Korean. “Let them eat kimchi,” implores the website

Thai/Japanese. Berlin’s home-grown star chef

for this hip, popular Korean restaurant. The house specialty is the meaty tabletop barbecue to be split between more diners, which comes with all the traditional side dishes including, of course, kimchi. €€. Daily D. www.kimchiprincess.com. Skalitzer Str. 36. T: 0163.4580203. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. F4

Tim Raue has done it again. Sra Bua, in the Hotel Adlon, is his latest restaurant to show off his love for the cuisines of Asia. Guests can expect only the most high-caliber Thai and Japanese cooking, and the Raue specialty: curries that are refined yet exploding with flavor. €€€. Tue-Sat D. www.srabuaadlon.de. Behrenstr. 72. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Kushinoya Japanese. This upscale Japanese restaurant makes

fried finger-food taste gourmet. The specialty is kushiage, skewers of delicate morsels like steak cubes, quail eggs, or shiitake mushroom caps that are lightly breaded and fried using a special nongreasy technique. www.kushinoya.de. Bleibtreustr. 6.

T: 030.31809897. S Savignyplatz. B4

Spindler & Klatt Asian-European fusion. Restaurant, lounge, and

club in one, Spindler & Klatt makes full use of its prime river location. In the summer, the waterside terrace is a memorable spot to enjoy the menu of Pan-Asian dishes, from fine sushi to sizzling tuna steaks and dry-aged Irish steaks hot off the grill. On Fridays and Saturdays, the spot transforms into a club from 23pm. €€€. Daily D. www.spindlerklatt. com. Köpenicker Str. 16–17. T: 030 319881860.

U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Transit Asian Fusion. The long menu of tapas-style Thai and Indonesian dishes, each just a few euros, allows diners to cobble together a meal encompassing a wide range of tastes and ingredients. Other location in Rosenthaler Str. 68. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.transit-restaurants.com.

Sonntagstr. 28. T: 030.26948415.

S Ostkreuz. Off Map

FRENCH Restaurant 1687 French-Mediterranean. Enjoy refined, stylish dining with a side of intriguing history – just a stone's throw from Brandenburg Gate. The restaurant takes its name from the year in which the first Protestant church in Berlin was built on this very site, an important gathering place for French Huguenots

fleeing religious persecution. The church was reduced to ruins in WWII, but in its place you can enjoy French-Mediterranean dishes and a top-notch wine selection. €€–€€€. Mon–Sat L&D. www.1687.berlin. Mittelstr. 30. T: 030.20630611.

U Friedrichstraße. E3

Duke Restaurant French. The Ellington Hotel’s restaurant is all about

French haute cuisine with modern, creative twists.

Both the à la carte options and the menu of monthly specials illustrate the restaurant’s dedication to top-quality meat, seafood, and regional produce. €€€. Mon–Sat L&D. www.duke-restaurant.com.

Nürnberger Str. 50-55. T: 030.683154000.

U Augsburger Straße. C4

Lamazère Brasserie French. Proof that fine dining needn’t break the

bank is Lamazère Brasserie, a much-lauded dining spot that earned “Bib Gourmand” status in the revered Michelin Guide, a category commending great food at good value. The three-course dinner menu for €35 will allow you to sample various French food musts, like oeufs cocotte baked eggs, charcuterie platters, duck confit, beef tartare, and tarte tatin for dessert. Whatever the kitchen has cooking that night, every delicacy has that je ne sas quoi that has made French cuisine so famous. €€€. Tue-Sun D. www.lamazere.de. Stuttgarter Platz 18. T: 030.31800712.S Charlottenburg. B4

Le Faubourg Mediterranean. This classy brasserie facing the famed Ku’damm features modern art and a crisp, stylish interior alongside its menu of both classic and updated French cuisine. The recently revamped brasserie in the Hotel Sofitel Kurfürstendamm is the perfect spot for either a posh business lunch or a romantic dinner. Try the flambéed shrimp for a fiery cooking performance right at your table. €€. Daily L&D. www.sofitel.com.

Augsburger Str. 41. T: 030.8009990.

U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Paris Bar French. Many celebrities – including

Madonna, Sophia Loren, and Robert De Niro – have patronized this West Berlin institution over the years. The bistro-style menu includes French classics like oysters and steak-frites, though the legend alone is enough to draw guests. €€€.

Daily L&D. www.parisbar.net. Kantstr. 152.

T: 030.3138052. S Savignyplatz. C4

GERMAN/AUSTRIAN

Season’s Greetings Hurray! This is the time of year when gardens finally spring back to life and the produce at farmers’ markets becomes lush and bountiful once more. To celebrate the freshest, most beautiful tastes of the season, book a seat at An Introduction To, a monthly popup dinner event held at a warm, intimate space in Kreuzberg’s Bergmannkiez neighborhood. The dinner series is the creation of Laura Villanueva Guerra, a chef & caterer most inspired by nature’s seasonal gifts. That means creating dishes out of asparagus and rhubarb in the spring, elderflowers and nettles in the summer, an array of root vegetables in the fall, and purple kale and chestnuts over the wintertime, plus locally sourced meat and fish. To book your spot at this month’s dinner on 3 May, visit www.rsvp-popup.com or www.facebook.com/tausendsuend. And flip to page 66 to read an interview with Laura, getting to the root of her culinary philosophy and revealing her best food tips all around Berlin.

50 W H E R E B E R L I N I M AY 2018

AIGNER am Gendarmenmarkt Austrian/German. The Mitte restaurant boasts

an elegant interior and a view on stately Gendarmenmarkt. Styled after Vienna's famed coffeehouses, AIGNER adds a local touch with dishes like Brandenburg roast duck. €€€. Daily L&D. www.aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de.

Französischestr. 25 T: 030.203751850.

U Französische Straße. E3

Altes Zollhaus German. This quaint, cottage-style building

was first constructed in the 1800s, when it served as a tollhouse for passing steamboats, then painstakingly restored after WWII. Today, it’s a canal-side restaurant serving elevated German cuisine created from the finest regional ingredients. €€–€€€. Tues–Sat D. www.altes-zollhaus-berlin.de.

Carl-Herz-Ufer 30. T: 030.6923300.

U Prinzenstraße. E4

Borchardt German/French. A favorite hobnobbing spot

of the rich and famous, Borchardt is popular for both its food (especially the schnitzel) as well as the opportunity to see and be seen. €€. Daily L&D. www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Französische Str. 47.

T: 030.81886262. U Französische Straße. E3

Hofbräuhaus German. An Oktoberfest atmosphere for the

whole family 365 days a year. This restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner in typical Bavarian style, alongside live music, waiters in traditional costume, and the traditional Hofbräu beer, brewed in Munich since the 1700s. Expect dumplings and roasted ham hock at their popular Sunday brunch. €. www.hofbraeu-wirtshaus.de. Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 30.

T: 030 679665520. U + S Alexanderplatz. F2

The Grand German. The sophisticated supper club, with origins reaching back to 1842, boasts an American grill that makes its international array of steaks among the best in town. The upstairs lounge attracts a decadent late-night scene. €€€. Mon–Fri L, Daily D. www.the-grand-berlin.com. Hirtenstraße 4.

T: 030.278909555. Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Grill Royal German/French. A beloved destination of

Mitte’s well-dressed creative scenesters.

There’s more to the menu than just grilled meat, though the steaks are indeed excellent. Lobster cocktail, ceviche, and oysters are just a few other additions to the fine menu. €€€. Daily D. www.grillroyal.com. Friedrichstr. 105b.

T: 030.28879288.

S Friedrichstraße. E3

Jolesch Austrian. The dining room is elegant yet understated and this Austrian restaurant divides its menu into two sections: “modern” and “classic.” The former means creations like smoked veal tartare with elderflower; the latter refined renditions of home-style dishes like Tafelspitz beef or schnitzel. €€. Daily L&D. www.jolesch.de. Muskauer Str. 1. T: 030.6123581.

U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

Käfer Dachgarten-Restaurant of the German Bundestag German. The Reichstag is for more than sightseeing.

Thanks to the culinary team behind Käfer, it’s also a fine dining destination. On the roof of the famed landmark, Käfer boasts splendid views and refined, modern German cuisine. Advance reservations required. Due to security precautions, each guest must provide official photo I.D. upon entry. €€€.

Daily B, L, D. www.feinkost-kaefer.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030 2262990. U Bundestag, S Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3.

Maximilians German. Maximilians recreates the feel of a cozy Bavarian beer hall with hearty food and plentiful beer. Meaty specialties include pork knuckle served with dumplings and sauerkraut, freshly baked pretzels, and the tempting “Munich sausage parade.” From the four kinds of Paulaner beer on tap to the warm hospitality, Maximilians goes to great lengths to transport a piece of Bavaria to the heart of Mitte. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.maximiliansrestaurant.de. Friedrichstr.

185–190. T: 030.20450559. U Stadtmitte. E3

www.wheretraveler.com 51

DINING

Coffee Break Caffeine addicts, rejoice! In recent years, Berlin has seriously upped its coffee game. Cappuccino, macchiato, and flat white fans might once have had to travel far to find their favorite cup, but now there are great cafés in practically every district. We rounded up a few neighborhood favorites.

Nante Eck German. With delightful dishes from Berlin’s

traditional cuisine and a menu that changes every month, the Nante Eck restaurant offers a refined cuisine made with fresh local ingredients.

Specialties include extra-big currywurst and Flammkuchen pies. Very long beer menu. €.

Daily L&D. www.nante-eck.de.

Unter den Linden 35. T: 030.22487257.

U Französische Straße. F2

Neumond German. The sight of Neumond’s

Paris-Moskau

cups. Add on a tasty sandwich or a little something sweet for the perfect coffee break or light lunch.

Münzstr. 21, www.fathercarpenter.com

Rotisserie Weingrün German/European. Overlooking the canal on

the southern edge of Museum Island, this elegant-casual restaurant is a favorite of many local gastronomes. The highlight is the huge, upright flame grill, which prepares steaks, ribs, pork belly, and rotisserie chicken to perfection. Try the octopus salad or flambéed German bread is among salmon for a special treat. €€–€€€. the best in the world, and there are some 600 Mon–Sat D. varieties from which to www.rotisserie-weingruen.de. choose.

Gertraudenstr. 10.

T: 030.20621900. U Spittelmarkt. F3.

historic and refined counter is a hint at the restaurant’s simple elegance – in both interior design and menu, which includes a vast selection of courses; classics and specials. And for everyone with a sweet tooth: There’s a white chocolate mousse on the dessert menu. To top it all off: A bar with a variety of drinks to choose from.

Borsigstr. 28, Mitte. Daily L and Tue-Sun D. www.office@neumond-restaurant.de.

T: 030.2857505.

S Nordbahnhof. E2

Dining column here maybe? (didn't we do CARPENTER one a while MITTE: FATHER Tucked away in a gorgeous turn-of-theago? century courtyard, secluded from the havebusiest a fullshopping hubbub ofcan't one of Mitte’s districts, Father Carpenter serves up page of listings impeccable coffees in cheerful Pantone blue

Daily D. www.renger-patzsch.com. Wartburgstr. 54.

T: 030.7842059. U Eisenacher Straße. C5

French/German. This rustic house, built in 1898 and lucky to survive two World Wars, was a Russian restaurant in two of its past lives. Today, it's an upscale destination seamlessly incorporating French, German, and Russian culinary influences. €€€. MonFri L&D, Sat D only. www.paris-moskau. de. Alt-Moabit 141. T: 030.3942081.

S+U Hauptbahnhof. D3

Renger-Patzsch German. All dark wood and white tablecloths, the look at Renger-Patzsch is as simple and elegant as is its menu of refined German-Austrian cuisine.

Meat dishes are a specialty, as are the Alsatian Flammkuchen, bases of thin dough baked with topping combos like apple and blood sausage. €€.

Schneeweiss German/Austrian. With a crisply white interior reminiscent of snow-capped Alpine peaks, Schneeweiss serves classy takes on Austrian cuisine. Traditional dishes like schnitzel and goulash with Serviettenknödel dumplings share the menu with rotating seasonal offerings. €€.

Mon–Fri D, Sat–Sun B, L, D. www.schneeweiss-berlin.de. Simplonstr. 16.

T: 030.29049704. S+U Warschauer Straße. H3

Volt German. The name of this restaurant and the edgy, post-industrial interior remind diners that the space was once an electricity station. Chef Matthias Gleiss has edge, too – he was named Newcomer of the Year in 2011 by a jury of top Berlin chefs. Refined yet exciting German food is his calling card. €€€. Mon– Sat D. www.restaurant-volt.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 21.

T: 030.61074033.

U Kottbusser Tor. G4

Zeit für Brot German. Bread is a cornerstone of German food

PRENZLAUER BERG: BONANZA COFFEE One of the local forefathers of the Third Wave coffee trend, Bonanza Coffee has been roasting and brewing coffee next to Mauerpark since 2006. All these years later, their espressos and drip brews still stand up to the competition.

Oderberger Str. 35, www.bonanzacoffee.de

Sharing a space with the Voo concept store lends Companion an ultra-hip and fashionable air. Stringent quality standards ensures that the coffee here is always top notch. Bonus: unlike most cafés, Companion is equally as diligent about serving great teas as well.

Oranienstr. 24, www.companioncoffee.com

FRIEDRICHSHAIN: SILO Just a stone’s throw away from busy Boxhagener Platz, Silo is a dependable spot not just for fantastic coffee, but delicious brunch, too, like luscious French toast and poached eggs packed with flavorful toppings.

Gabriel-Max-Str. 54, www.silo-coffee.com

52 W H E R E B E R L I N I M AY 2018

Italian deli Salumeria Lamuri (Köpenicker Str. 183, lasalumeria. wordpress.com) is easily Kreuzberg's most beautiful breakfast and lunch spot.

© ISTOCK. SALUMERIA LAMURI © FEDERICO TESTA.

KREUZBERG: COMPANION COFFEE

culture. Zeit für Brot – “Time for Bread” – is not only a bakery selling organic, artisanal German breads baked in-house, it’s also a café serving things like wholesome sandwiches, quiche “muffins,” and sweet treats like cinnamon buns. €.

Daily B&L. www.zeitfuerbrot.com.

Alte Schönhauser Str. 4. T: 030.28046780.

U Weinmeisterstraße, U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Zillemarkt German. Zillemarkt is steeped in old-school Berliner charm. For a taste, try the “Berliner Allerlei” platter for two, with cabbage rolls, mushy peas, fried potatoes, and no less than five kinds of meat. €. Daily B, L, D. Bleibtreustr. 48a.

T: 030.8817040. S Savignyplatz. B4

ITALIAN Barist Italian. Healthful, filling breakfasts, quick business lunches, happy-hour cocktails, and dinner with friends in the red-bricked arches under the trains at S Hackescher Markt station. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.barist.de. Am Zwirngraben 13.

T: 030.24722613.

S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

Bocca di Bacco Italian. This high-level restaurant offers

modern Italian cuisine prepared with top-quality ingredients, accompanied by excellent wines. Contemporary furnishings and elegant atmosphere. www.boccadibacco.de. €€–€€€.

Daily L&D. Friedrichstr. 167-168. T: 030.20672828.

U Französische Straße. E3

Monday to Sunday: 12.00 – 15.00 CET, 18.00 – 23.00 CET

+49 (0) 30 278 909 95 55 www.the-grand-berlin.com

The Grand Master Betriebs GmbH Hirtenstraße 4, 10178 Berlin

www.1687.berlin

Café Aroma Italian. A longstanding neighborhood favorite,

this Italian restaurant believes in pairing highquality food with a relaxed, homey atmosphere.

The Sunday brunch buffet, served from 11am, is a generous mix of irresistible cold and warm Italian dishes. €€. Mon–Fri D, Sat L&D, Sun B, L, D. www.cafe-aroma.de. Hochkirchstr. 8.

T: 030.7825821.

S+U Yorckstraße. D5

Der Goldene Hahn Italian. A cozy atmosphere, adept chefs, and occasional celebrity sightings make this a popular spot. The changing menu of creative daily specials elevates Der Goldene Hahn well above the run-ofthe-mill Italian restaurants that abound in Berlin. €€. Daily D. www.goldenerhahn.de. Pücklerstr. 20.

T: 030.6188098.

U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

I Due Forni

Fine french inspired cuisine in an elegant ambiance.

FriedrichEbert-Platz Scheidemannstr.

Str. des 17. Juni

Pariser Platz

Bahnhof Friedrichstraße

E

U

Dorotheenstraße Schadowstr.

Italofritzen

SPRE Wilhelmstraße

Italian. The atmosphere at this expansive pizza hall is on the raucous side and the service is notoriously surly, but that doesn’t keep the pizza-loving crowds at bay. The generously sized thin-crust concoctions are famed around the city. €. Daily L&D. Schönhauser Allee 12.

T: 030.44017333.

U Senefelderplatz. F2

Mittelstraße

Unter den Linden

Italian. Everyone’s favorite food: traditional

Italian pizza, homemade pasta, fresh mozzarella and tomato, good ham, cappuccino, and cornetti pastries done just the way you love it! www.friedrichs106.de. Friedrichstr. 105.

T: 030.40040600. S+U Friedrichstraße E3

Neustädtischer Kirchplatz / Mittelstraße 30 / 10117 Berlin T. 0049 30 20630611 / info@1687.berlin open from 12:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m. / Sunday closed www.wheretraveler.com 53

DINING terrace spills out across the busy Platz. The large international menu ranges from steaks to pizzas to burgers. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.grandrocka.de.

Am Zwirngraben 6–7.

T: 030.24638606. F2

Hasir Turkish. The little Turkish grill house rumored to be the birthplace of the döner kebab in the 1970s has since expanded to six locations around the city. The original restaurant near Kottbusser Tor is a very popular spot for trying the full spectrum of what Turkish cuisine has to offer – far beyond the kebab. €€. Daily L&D. www.hasir.de. Adalbertstr.

10. T: 030.6142373.

U Kottbusser Tor. F4

The Bird American. The hefty burgers here have a real cult following, and many swear they’re the best in the city. The menu also includes steaks, chicken wings, and a mean club sandwich – vegetarians will leave hungry. €. Daily L&D. www.thebirdinberlin.com.

Am Falkplatz 5. T: 030.51053283.

S+U Schönhauser Allee. F1

Neni

Although less famous than other southern European cuisines, Portuguese food is delicious and unique. Bacalhau, or codfish, is Portugal’s national dish and comes in countless variations and recipes. In recent years, however, it’s the Portuguese breakfast culture more than its fish that has really started conquering the world. In Berlin, pasteis de nata (puff pastry cups filled with egg custard and with a characteristic burnt top), can now be found in quite a few of the trendier breakfasts places. But for the real taste of a full Portuguese breakfast, look no further than Nata Lisboa (Pariser Str. 24, www. natalisboa.com). This friendly pastelaria near Olivaer Platz serves Portuguese breakfast staples such as galão (Portuguese latte) with torradas (soft bread dipped in melted butter), all of the most popular Portuguese pastries, and a variety of savory tarts.

MIDDLE EASTERN Glass Modern Arabic. A 2013 addition to the west-end

gourmet scene, Glass is the baby of Israeli chef Gal Ben Moshe. Guests in the sleek, modern space get wowed with an innovative tasting menu that does magical things with traditional Arabic ingredients like preserved lemon, sumac, and lamb. €€€. Daily D, closed Sun–Mon. www.glassberlin.de. Uhlandstr. 195.

T: 030.54710861.

S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

OTHER Adana Grillhouse Turkish. This all-encompassing menu of Turkish dishes allows for a full on Turkish experience – sights, smells and tastes to reflect the cuisine that has found its way into the heart and soul of Berlin. A high priority for Adana Grillhaus is to

54 W H E R E B E R L I N I M AY 2018

ensure a familiar and welcoming atmosphere.

Second location in Friedrichshain-Kreuzberg at Manteuffelstr. 86. €€ Daily L&D. www.adanagrillhaus.de. Skalitzerstr. 105.

T: 030.82409600.

U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

Balikci Ergün Turkish. This quirky, hole-in-the-wall restaurant, with the look and feel of a fish market, serves fresh seafood the traditional Turkish way. Whole fried sardines and grilled fillets of the catch of the day are served simply with lush salads, lemon wedges, and warm Turkish bread. €€.

Daily D. Lüneburger Str. 382. T: 030.3975737. S Bellevue. D3

Grand Rocka International. Inside, the restaurant takes over the historic arched space under S Hackescher Markt station, featuring a grand old wooden bar that lives up to the restaurant’s name, and out front, the

Vivolo Olé Spanish. Authentic Spanish cuisine at Hackescher Markt, including a wide selection of tapas, paellas, grilled meats and fresh fish dishes. Vegetarian and vegan options available. www.vivolo.de.

Am Zwirngraben 11-12. T: 030.24631933.

S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

VEGETARIAN/VEGAN Katjes Veggie Café Grün-Ohr Vegetarian. It’s heaven for the sweet-toothed. The

shop and café by Katjes not only stocks the brand’s full line of vegetarian-friendly, gelatin-free gummy candy, but also a rainbow of vegan cupcakes, coffee, and freshly squeezed juices that can be enjoyed on site or to go. €. Rosenthaler Str. 32.

T: 030.97894702. www.cafegruenohr.de. F2

Lucky Leek Vegetarian. It’s not luck that makes Lucky Leek so good, but rather a dedication to creating top-notch gourmet cuisine that is also 100-percent vegan and incorporates international tastes. The small but comprehensive menu changes regularly. €€.

Wed–Sun D. www.lucky-leek.de.

U Senefelderplatz. F2

Lowkal Superfood The first low-carb, superfood café and restaurant in Berlin. No additional sugar used here, only fresh, seasonal produce full of all the vitamins, minerals, fructose, and fiber your body needs to power through the day without feeling lethargic. www.lowkal.berlin. Pfalzburger Str. 72A. T: 030.88720836.

U Hohenzollernplatz. B4

© ISTOCK

The World Needs Nata

Mediterranean. From its location in a glass penthouse atop the 25Hours Hotel, casual-hip Neni offers panoramic views and a fresh, creative fusion of Mediterannean, Middle Eastern, and North African culinary flavors. Many dishes on the diverse menu can be ordered in various sizes, with the goal of making sharing a part of the meal experience. €€. Daily L&D. www.25hours-hotels. com. Budapester Str. 40.

T: 030.120221200.

S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

THE GUIDE | ENTERTAINMENT

TOM HARRELL: © ANGELA HARRELL; THE HAT: COURTESY OF THE HAT BAR: A-TRANE: COURTESY OF A-TRANE.

Clockwise from this photo: A jam session at The Hat Bar; The Hat Bar; Tom Harrell plays at Quasimodo; A jazz concert at A-Trane.

Jam Session!

It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that swing, says Solveig Steinhardt. Or was that Ella Fitzgerald?

In the 1920s, dancer Josephine Baker once compared Berlin's cafés to "ocean liners powered by the rhythms of their orchestras." Imported from the US, jazz music had become the soundtrack to Berlin's nightlife. But like everything else in Berlin, it had to follow the course of the city's stormy history: Jazz was banned by the Nazis for being too "modern," and when it re-emerged after the war, the scene had to split in two, cut in half by the Berlin Wall.

The division is still there: As local music fans will tell you, jazz clubs in the west are slightly more upscale and sophisticated, while those in the east are known for their beboppy and experimental mood.

West Berlin's most popular clubs are all

located around Zoologischer Garten in Charlottenburg. Quasimodo (Kantstr. 12a, www.quasimodo.de) is one of the oldest in the business, with a lively and traditional atmosphere both in the bar area upstairs, which was recently turned into a restaurant, and in the (non-smoking) basement where all the action takes place. The music ranges from jazz, blues, and soul to funk, psychedelic, and contemporary. Just around the corner is The Hat Bar (Lotte-Lenya-Bogen 550, www. thehatbar.dem), a smoky, vintage-looking, film-noir-inspired café situated under the S-Bahn arches. The nightly old-school jazz jam sessions attract intellectuals and students alike. Another popular jazz bar is A-Trane (Pestalozzistr. 105). Its stage has hosted jazz legends the likes of Wynton

Marsalis, Herbie Hancock, and many more.

The atmosphere is upscale and the audience comprised of connoisserurs and true jazz aficionados.

On the other side of town there's B-Flat (Dircksenstr. 40, www.b-flat-berlin.de), founded in the 1990s by a trio of musician friends. Its new location near Hackescher Markt is roomy and contemporary, and the club gets particularly crowded on Wednesday nights for their popular jam sessions . Nearby Jazzkeller 69 (Oranienburgerstr. 67, www.jazzkeller69.de) is famous for its experimental program and for the owners' brave, sometimes extreme musical choices. The space is small and intimate, and the program is a mix of wild improvisation and avant-garde. www.wheretraveler.com 55

ENTERTAINMENT

BALLET & OPERA Deutsche Oper A 1960s décor-free box of acoustic magic. Director and conductor Donald Runnicles puts together rich programs with lots of Verdi, Rossini, and Mozart. 1, 5, 29 May: Die Fledermaus (Wagner). 3, 7, 11, 17 May: Rigoletto (Verdi). 6, 10, 13 May: Un Ballo in maschera (Verdi). 9, 12 May: Il Trovatore (Verdi).

16, 19 May: La Traviata (Verdi). 18, 21, 27 May: Don Carlo (Verdi). 20, 24 May: Nabucco (Verdi). 26 May: Die Zauberflöte (Mozart). 28, 30, 31 May: Maria Stuarda (Donizetti). www.deutscheoperberlin.de.

T: 030.34384343.

U Deutsche Oper. B3

Komische Oper

A city with as much history as Berlin makes for a perfect backdrop to some memorable movies. From classics to recent Hollywood blockbusters, here are some must-see German and English films, from oldest to newest, that star Berlin.

BERLIN: SYMPHONY OF A GREAT CITY (1927) This black-and-white beauty of a silent film depicts a day in the life of a bygone Berlin – a must-see for history fans.

CABARET (1972) This cinematic classic starring Liza Minnelli, depicting the famous era of swinging 1930s Berlin as the Nazis were rising to power, was filmed in both the capital and southern Germany.

WINGS OF DESIRE (1987) This gloomily beautiful love story by German heavyweight director Wim Wenders is like an ode to West Berlin. One iconic scene features the main character atop the Siegessäule column in Tiergarten.

RUN LOLA RUN (1998) This runaway (pun intended) international success takes its viewers on a heartthumping sprint all over town. One key location: the red-bricked Oberbaum Bridge.

THE BOURNE SUPREMACY (2004) Trained assassin Jason Bourne is chased all over the city in this thriller. Look for major cameos by the Friedrichstraße S-Bahn bridge and Alexanderplatz, for example.

THE LIVES OF OTHERS (2006) This Oscar winner does a stellar job illustrating life in East Berlin, with scenes shot in the former Stasi headquarters in Lichtenberg and the Volksbühne theater in Mitte, for example.

56 W H E R E B E R L I N I M AY 2018

This charismatic 1821 concert hall is the base theater of the Konzerthausorchester, but other orchestras and soloists grace its stage regularly.

7 May: Brad Mehldau Trio.

18, 19 May: Konzerthausorchester (cond. Langree); music by Debussy and Schönberg. 26 May: Piano duo with Eva Yulin Shen and Jui-Lan Huang. www.konzerthaus.de. Gendarmenmarkt.

T: 030.203092101. U Hausvogteiplatz. E3

Philharmonie The iconic concert venue is home to the acclaimed Berliner Philharmoniker, currently led by Sir Simon Rattle, but also hosts other ensembles and soloists. Free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays 1pm.

5-6 May: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Järvi) perform sibelius and Shostakovich. 10-12 May: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Sokhiev) perform works byProkofiev, Beethoven and Mussorgski.

17–19 May: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond.

Rattle) perform Schumann. www.berlinerphilharmoniker.de. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1.

T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Pierre Boulez Saal

Berlin’s newest concert hall is part of the Barenboim-Said Akademie, an institution dedicated to bringing During his Berlin stay together talented young musicians Staatsoper Unter Den in 1970, David Bowie from Arab, Israeli, and Christian Linden shared his Hauptstraße 157 backgrounds. A unique, modern Berlin's historic opera house apartment with design by the venerable Frank reopened in 2017 after lengthy Iggy Pop. Gehry design ensures stunning renovations. Barenboim's perfect acoustics, and co-founder Daniel productions range from Baroque Barenboim makes regular appearances on operas to contemporary premieres. 5 May: stage. www.boulezsaal.de. Französische Str. 33D. Histoire du Soldat (Stravinsky). 6, 10, 19, 21, 24 May: T: 030 47997411.

King Arthur (Purcell). 12, 16, 18, 20 May: il U Französische Straße. E3 Barbiere di Siviglia (Rossini). 26, 31 May: Pelleas et Melisande (Debussy). 30 May: La Traviata (Verdi). www.staatsoper-berlin.de. T: 030.2035540.

Unter den Linden 7. U Alexanderplatz. E3

Staatsballett Berlin’s ballet company currently performs at various locations. 4 May: Don Quixote (Minkus) at Komische Oper. 5, 13, 26 May: Romeo and Juliet at Deutsche Oper. www.staatsballett-berlin.de.

T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3

CLASSICAL CONCERTS Berliner Dom Berlin’s main cathedral presents a plethora of sacred music concerts year round. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten.

T: 030.20269136. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Hochschule für Musik Hans Eisler One of Berlin’s most prestigious music academies.

Its students are members of important orchestras, choirs, and bands, and the stage presents hundreds of concerts every year – many of which are free. www.hfm-berlin.de. Charlottenstr. 55.

T: 030.688305700. U Stadtmitte. E3

Chamber Music Hall of the Philharmonie Part of the Philharmonie, this concert hall presents daily chamber-music concerts and free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays. 21 May: Open House with Simon Rattl. 22 May: Philharmonische Stradivari Solisten Berlin. 28 May: Brahms Ensemble Berlin. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de. Herbert-vonKarajan-Str. 1.

T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin Injecting new expression into 19th- and 20thcentury classical works under the lead of Marek Janowski, the oldest German radio orchestra with its 103 members has won a place in the top tier of European concert orchestras. www.rsb-online.de.

Tickets: 030.20298715.

DANCE AND EXPERIMENTAL SPACES Dock 11 Studios & Eden***** Avant-garde dance shows and contemporary performances inside an old factory. www.dock11-berlin.de. Dock 11 Studios: Kastanienallee 79. T: 030.4481222. U Eberswalder Straße, Rosenthaler Platz. F2; Eden***** Studios: Breite Str. 43 (Pankow). T: 030.35120312.

S+U Pankow. Off Map

HAU (Hebbel am Ufer) Cutting-edge shows and hip performances at this off-theater and cultural point. www.hebbel-amufer.de. Stresemannstr. 29; Tempelhofer Ufer 10; Hallesches Ufer 32. T: 030.2590040.

U Hallesches Tor. E4

Radialsystem V Once a turn-of-the-century pumping station for the Berlin Water Services, this creative space is now a cultural center and idea factory that hosts performances of all kinds, from classical concerts to jazz jam sessions to contemporary dance. www.radialsystem.de. Holzmarktstr. 33.

T: 030.288788588. S+U Jannowitzbrücke. G3

© ISTOCK.

Lights...

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Berlin!

Young and daring opera productions won this theater the title of Opera House of the Year 2013.

Australian intendant Barrie Kosky is also the artistic director of some of the performances, with mesmerizing results. 1, 6, 19 May: Jevgeny Onegin (Tchakovsky). 4, 21 May: Il Barbiere di Siviglia (Rossini). 10, 13, 20, 25 May: Blaubart (Offenbach) 12, 18, 26 May: Semele (Händel). www.komische-oper-berlin.de.

Behrensstr. 55-57. T: 030.47997400.

U Französische Straße. E3

Konzerthaus

ON THIS MONTH THEATER, MUSICALS & DANCE FREAKS RAW Gelände, all month.

THE ONE: GRAND SHOW Friedrichstadt-Palast, all month

BLUE MAN GROUP Bluemax Theater, all month

FINALE Chamäleon Theater, all month

TAKE IT EASY! Wintergarten Variete, all month

SCHARON BRAUNER Bar jeder Vernunft, 1-6 May

Nils Landgren, 5 and 6 May at Quasimodo Club (p. 55).

presents ARTISTIC PICTURES

ROCK, JAZZ, POP LISA STANSFIELD Friedrichstad-Palast, 6 May

ARCTIC MONKEYS C-Halle, 22 & 23 May

NICKELBACK Max-Schmeling Halle, 16 May

BALLET & CLASSICAL

TO THE HITS OF

KENNY ROGERS JOHNNY CASH DOLLY PARTON BOB DYLAN ZZ TOP THE EAGLES JOE COCKER BOSS HOSS ED SHEERAN TEXAS LIGHTNING SIMON & GARFUNKEL FLEETWOOD MAC BRUCE SPRINGSTEEN

ROADTRIP TO THE ROOTS OF ROCK & POP

AND MANY MORE

NILS LANDGREN, PHOTO BY THRON ULLBERG.

JAZZ AT THE PHILHARMONIC Philharmonie, 29 May

NEW YORK GYPSY ALL STARS PIerre-Boulez Saal, 26 May

DEBUSSY'S NOCTURNES Konzerthaus, 18 May

IL BARBIERE DI SIVIGLIA

HITS & ACROBATICS ONLY

UNTIL

JUNE

10!

Komische Oper, 4 and 21 May

IL TROVATORE Deutsche Oper, 9, 12 May

www.wintergarten-berlin.de | Ticket-Hotline: 030 - 588 433 | Potsdamer Str. 96, 10785 Berlin

www.wheretraveler.com 57

ENTERTAINMENT

Choreographer Sasha Waltz’s center for avantgarde dance, contemporary theater (mainly in German), music, and experimental performance artists. www.sophiensaele.com. Sophienstr. 18.

T: 030.2835266. U Weinmeisterstraße, S Hackescher Markt, S Oranienburger Straße. E2

MOVIE THEATERS CinemaxX Potsdamer Platz Multiplex cinema. Most of the movies are screened in their original language, with or without subtitles. www.cinemaxx.de. Potsdamer Str. 5.

T: 040.80806969. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Cinestar Sony Center The latest Hollywood blockbusters, in English, every day. www.cinestar.de. Potsdamer Str. 4.

T: 030.26066400. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Odeon This old-school single-screen cinema was Berlin’s first English-language theater and still screens both cult movies and new releases. Hauptstr. 116.

T: 030.78704019. S Schöneberg. C5

ROCK, POP, JAZZ

Akazienstr. 28. T: 030.78706057. U Eisenacher Straße. D5

Columbiahalle/C-Halle The multi-function event space hosts some of today’s most popular pop and rock acts. www. columbia-theater.de. Columbiadamm 13-21.

T: 030.69812814. U Platz der Luftbrücke. E5

Havanna The place to go for salsa, merengue, bachata, R&B, and Reggaeton.

Check website for program. www.havanna-berlin.de.

Hauptstr. 30. T: 030.7848565.

S Julius-Leber-Brücke, U Eisenacher Straße. D5

KulturBrauerei

The early-1900s brewery complex now houses various restaurants and art spaces, with a rich combination of programs, as well as a very popular street-food market most Sundays. www.kulturbrauerei.de.

Schönhauser Allee 36.

T: 030.44352614. U Eberswalder Every Tuesday at 1pm, the Philharmonie holds a free, Straße. F1

40-minute "lunch concert."

Come early to secure a spot.

Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin

A former cinema turned club and concert venue for rock-indie lovers. Check website for program. www.lido-berlin.de. Cuvrystr. 7. T: 030.69566840.

U Schlesisches Tor. G4

A massive arena for world-touring pop concerts and sports events, including those of Berlin’s professional ice hockey team, the Eisbären. 7 May: Star Wars in concert. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de.

Mühlenstr. 12–30.

T: 030.2060708899.

U Warschauer Straße. G4

Estrel Festival Center Berlin

Quasimodo

Enjoy an evening with the world’s top look-andsound-alike artists and taste a three-course dinner

One of Berlin’s historic music cafés. Diversified program with many musical styles, from jazz to

Lido

A-Trane Since 1992, this intimately sized but important venue (it was named Best German Jazzclub in 2011) has welcomed both emerging and A-list talent, including Wynton Marsalis, Herbie Hancock, and Diana Krall. Daily from 8pm, free entry Sunday after 10:30pm. www.a-trane.de. Pestalozzistr. 105.

T: 030.3132550. S Savignyplatz. B3/B4

Arena The enormous former bus depot now presents events as diverse as rap concerts and roller derby and features a cocktail lounge and the Badeschiff, a heated swimming pool floating on the Spree River. www.arena-berlin.de. Eichenstr. 4. T: 030.5332030.

S Treptower Park, U Schlesisches Tor. G4

B Flat Jazz Club Small jazz bands play almost every night, while Wednesdays offer free jam sessions. www.b-flatberlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 13. T: 030.2833123.

U Rosenthaler Platz. F2

Café Bilderbuch Frequent jazz concerts and readings at this Schöneberg café. www.cafe-bilderbuch.de.

Paper Transformations Inspired by the masks of his hometown’s Carnival parades, Venetian comedian Ennio Marchetto has invented a whole new theatrical genre that combines paper costumes with caricature, lip-synching, and the quick unfolding and twisting of his paper figures. With his costumes, designed to look like celebrity cartoons, Ennio quickly transforms into Jesus, Mary Poppins, E.T. and many more characters in a satirical and very funny performance. Catch him from 24 to 27 May at Tipi am Kanzleramt. www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de 58 W H E R E B E R L I N I M AY 2018

during Stars In Concert, a live performance of legends like Elvis, Abba, Johnny Cash, Buddy Holly, and more. www.stars-in-concert.de. Wed– Sat 8:30pm, Sun 7pm. Sonnenallee 225. €20, from €60 with dinner. Off Map

COURTESY OF ENNIO MARCHETTO, WWW.ENNIOMARCHETTO.COM

Sophiensaele

blues, R&B to soul. www.quasimodo.de. Kantstr.

12a. T: 030.31804560. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

SO36 The heart of Kreuzberg’s radical scene. The Dead Kennedys and Die Toten Hosen played here a few times, while today’s program ranges from punk and hard rock concerts to flea markets and tea afternoons. www.so36.de. Oranienstr. 190.

T: 030.61401306. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Tempodrom This large concert building resembling a circus tent – and situated on the former grounds of the now-gone Anhalter Bahnhof – hosts an array of events, from classical concerts and pop-rock productions to mixed martial arts and dance.

16 May: Tears for Fears in concert. 19 May: Carmina Burana. www.tempodrom.de. Möckernstr. 10.

Toll number: 0186.554111. S Anhalter Bahnhof. E4

THEATER, CABARET & MUSICALS Admiralspalast One of Berlin’s few preserved pre-WWII variety venues offers an international, high-caliber program of musicals, cabaret, and concerts in an

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elegant hall from the 1920s. www.admiralspalast. de. Friedrichstr. 101. T: 030.47997499.

S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Bar Jeder Vernunft A 1912 tent housing song-and-dance shows, comedy, and cabaret. Many shows in German only. www.bar-jeder-vernunft.de. Schaperstr. 24.

T: 030.8831582. U Spichernstraße. C4

Local guides. Worldwide.TM GUIDE TO LONDON

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Blue Man Group The unmistakable Blue Man Group has its own permanent theater, the Bluemax Theater, where the blue-domed performers present an energetic combination of music, art, pantomime, and comedy. The few spoken words are in English.

Shows take place almost every night. Check website for info. www.stage-entertainment.de.

Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4.

Toll number: 01805.4444.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Chamäleon Variete An old ballroom where audiences can experience a young genre that mixes acrobatics with music, dance, and visual arts. All month: Finale. www.chamaeleonberlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 40/41.

T: 030.4000590. S Hackescher Markt. E2

WWW.WHERETRAVELER.COM APRIL 2018

BRITISH ICONS How roles from Winston Churchill to Mary Poppins are lighting up the screen

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Friedrichstadt-Palast Berlin MUST SEE With the biggest stage in the world, this is Berlin's most spectacular theater and a must-see acccording to The New York Times. Take in special effects and glitzy Vegas-style live shows.

All month: The One Grand Show, with 100 artists and acrobats, is a dreamlike journey through time in search of the one we love. 6 May: Lisa Stansfield. www.palast.berlin Friedrichstr. 107.

T: 030.23262326.U Friedrichstraße. E3

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Kookaburra

12/13/17 3:50 PM

Tuesday is English Comedy Night at this popular comedy club, and there’s also an English intermezzo late on Saturday nights. www.comedyclub.de. Schönhauser Allee 184.

T: 030.48623186. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Quatsch Comedy Club This popular club hosts frequent stand-up comedy shows and a regular English-language night. www.quatschcomedyclub.de. Friedrichstr. 107.

Toll number: 01806.999000969.

S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

DRINK

CLASSIC CITY SPEAKEASIES

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最佳之地 潇洒购物 游览名胜

Schaubühne A popular West Berlin theater in the 1960 and 1970s, this Ku’damm performance venue still hosts some interesting productions. Check website for program. www.schaubuehne.de. Kurfürstendamm 153. U Adenauerplatz. C4

PROMOTION

“SUMMER, The Donna Summer Musical” heats up Broadway, from “Hot Stuff” to “Last Dance.”

APRIL 2018

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Tipi am Kanzleramt The big tent in the Tiergarten has a vast program of musicals, magic, cabaret, dance, and theater.

Many shows are in German. 3–5 May: Double Drums. 24–27 May: Ennio, The Living Paper Cartoon.

29–31 May: Carrington Brown, 10. www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de. Große Querallee.

T: 030.39066550. U Bundestag. D3

Paris’s Lounging LOOKS

Wintergarten Varieté This sumptuous variety theater that has earned a reputation for its revitalized Vaudeville-inspired productions, as well as world-famous acts.

To 10 Jun: Take it easy! A roadtrip to the roots of rock & pop. www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Potsdamer Str. 96. T: 030.588433. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

FA SHION • A RTS & AT TR AC TIONS

• DININ G • ENTER TA INMEN

T • M A PS

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NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE This photo, right, and bottom right: Prinzipal; Middle: Ankerklause.

Inset, below: Luzia.

G&T Bar.

Kreuzberg is Hilda Hoy’s favorite bar destination for good reason. Discover some of her favorite spots.

As every Berliner will tell you, each district of this city has its own unique flavor. The increasingly posh Mitte is the place to go for fine dining and shopping.

Wedding has the young, student scenes; Prenzlauer Berg excels at yuppie, family-friendly cafés. And as for a dependably fun-filled night of bar hopping, Kreuzberg has held on to that title for decades now.

The busiest nightlife zone in Kreuzberg is concentrated around Kottbusser Tor, and Luzia (Oranienstr. 34, www.luzia.tc) is the unofficial queen of the ‘hood. Café by day and bar/lounge by night, Luzia is pretty much packed at all hours, and is especially lively on weekends when DJs play until sunrise. With exposed-brick walls, mismatched vintage furniture, and lots of flickering candles, Luzia has that cool Berlin look nailed. It’s the perfect place to start for a taste of Kreuzberg’s nightlife scene.

Just down the street is Prinzipal (Oranienstr. 178, www.prinzipal-kreuzberg. com), a newcomer cocktail bar with a retro 60 W H E R E B E R L I N I M AY 2018

burlesque theme. Besides great drinks and glitz and glam to spare, the bar also features regular burlesque performances. Rather more understated but no less special is nearby Rias (Manteuffelstr. 100, www. riasbar.de). The space gleams with low-key, 1930s vintage style, and the house drink specialties cater towards classic tastes as well. Let the expert bartenders mix you a Sazerac, perhaps, or a violet-scented Aviation – or the wonderfully named Corpse Reviver: gin, Chartreuse, vermouth, absinthe, and lemon.

For more down-to-earth tastes, there’s Ankerklause bar (Kottbusser Damm 104, www.ankerklause.de), a solid neighborhood favorite that never gets old.

One of the more gentrification-resistant

drinking holes around here, Ankerklause sits at the edge of the Kottbusser Bridge, with a terrace overlooking the canal. It’s not premium mixology that draws the crowds here, but rather wellpriced drinks, a well-stocked jukebox, and the laid-back atmosphere.

And then, of course, there’s always Roses (Oranienstr. 187), the stuff of Kreuzberg legends. Lined from floor to ceiling with pink faux fur, drenched in glittery trinkets, and topped with a disco ball that keeps spinning until sunrise, Roses is a tiny dive bar heavily costumed in diva glam. It never fails to attract a colorful cast of characters that just gets more colorful as the hours fall away. Anything goes at Roses – and quite often does.

PRINZIPAL: © PRINZIPAL KREUZBERG; ANKERKLAUSE: © VISITBERLIN, PHOTO BY PIERRE ADENIS; LUZIA: COURTESY OF LUZIA.

Bar-Hopping In Kreuzberg

NIGHTLIFE

BEER Ankerklause A canal-side tavern where drinks come with beautiful views of passing boats. Daily from 10am (Mon from 4pm). www.ankerklause.de. Kottbusser Damm 104. T: 030.6935649. U Schönleinstraße. F4

Café am Neuen See and Biergarten A pleasant lakeside beer garden inside the verdant Tiergarten park. Open daily from breakfast onwards. www.cafeamneuensee.de.

Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930.

S Tiergarten. C3

Club der Visionäre This canal-side boat-shack attracts young crowds till early morning and beyond. Daily from 2pm until very late (from noon Sat & Sun). www.clubdervisionaere.com. Am Flutgraben 1.

T: 030.69518942. U Schlesisches Tor, S Treptower Park. G4

Dicke Wirtin This old Berliner Kneipe restaurant is a Charlottenburg institution. Great beer and traditional German dishes. Daily from 11am. www.dicke-wirtin.de. Carmerstr. 9. T: 030.3124952.

S Savignyplatz, S+U Zoologischer Garten. B4

Prater Berlin’s oldest Biergarten serves simple and homely cuisine, seasonal specialties, and lots of beer of course! Daily from 6pm (from noon Sat). www.pratergarten.de. Kastanienallee 7-9.

T: 030.4485688. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Schleusenkrug A relaxing spot for beer lovers amid the lush greenery of the Tiergarten. German specialties to go with your beer include a variety of cakes, Flammkuchen, and a few breakfast options. Daily from 11am. www.schleusenkrug.de. Müller-BreslauStr. T: 030.3139909. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

CASINOS Spielbank Berlin A modern casino offering three floors of fun and games, including 20 tables of roulette, blackjack, and an extensive variety of poker options, as well as 350 gaming machines.Daily from 11am. www.spielbank-berlin.de. MarleneDietrich-Platz 1. T: 030.255990.S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3/D4

WINE & COCKTAILS Bar Tausend Celebrities mingle while watching the expert mixologists do their magic at this futuristic bar.

Thu–Sat from 7:30pm. www.tausendberlin.com.

Schiffbauerdamm 11.

T: 030.27582070.

S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

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Fragrances The Ritz-Carlton’s bar is the world’s only to pair cocktails with perfumes. Each drink is represented by a tester bottle of the perfume it’s based on and a photo illustrating the final presentation, which ranges from playful to whimsical. Closed until 31 May 2018.

Until then, the 18 aromatic cocktails

will be available at The Curtain Club. www. ritzcarlton.com. Potsdamer Platz 3. T:030.337777.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

The Grand A former school building has been transformed into a super-hip restaurant, bar and club all mixed into one. Enjoy top cocktails and a selection of cigars on the green leather couches in the 1920s-inspired bar, then dance the night away in the chic, intimate club. www.the-grand-berlin.com. Hirtenstr. 4.

T: 030.2789099555. S+U Alexanderplatz. B4

Green Door Cocktail Bar One of Berlin’s most relaxing cocktail bars, with a retro style and lots of kitsch décor. The cocktail list is long and the barman famous. Daily 6pm–3am (Fri–Sat until 4am). www.greendoor.de.

Winterfeldtstr. 50. T: 030.2152515.

U Nollendorfplatz. D4

The Unique Bar An international drink menu with 200+ different cocktails, served to a jazz soundtrack. Mon–Sat from 4pm. www.esplanade.de. Sheraton Berlin, Grand Hotel Esplanade Berlin, Lützowufer 15.

T: 030.254780. Bus M29, stop Lützowplatz. D4

LaBanca Bar The Hotel de Rome’s bar team specializes in avantgarde cocktails made with unusual ingredients such as balsamic vinegar, rose petals, or ginger beer. Live music Wed–Sat, rooftop terrace in summer. www.hotelderome.com. Behrenstr. 37.

T: 030.4606090. U Französische Straße. E3

Newton Bar Cigars, champagne, whiskey, and cocktails define this bar, which is entirely dedicated to fashion photographer Helmut Newton.

Daily 10am–3am (until 4am Fri–Sat). www.newton-bar.de. Charlottenstr. 57.

T: 030.20295421. U Französische Straße. E3

Reingold A classic cocktail bar, 1920s style. Elegant leather sofas, sumptuous lighting, and gilded elements with a soundtrack ranging from soul and funk to R&B. Tue–Sat from 7pm. www. reingold.de. Novalisstr. 11.

T: 030.28387676. U Oranienburger Tor. E2

Schwarzes Café A 24-hour combination of a bar and a café, with a good selection of beer and wine and hot meals at any time of night. Lovely garden. 24h a day except Tue from 3–10am. www.schwarzescafe-berlin.de.

Kantstr. 148. T: 030.3138038.

U Uhlandstraße, U Savignyplatz. B4

Times Bar A fine and luxurious bar inside the Savoy Hotel, offering modern drinks and Caribbean cocktails alongside a selection of cigars. www.weinrot-restaurant.com.

Fasanenstr. 9-10.

CLUB GUIDE BERGHAIN/PANORAMA BAR The world's most famous techno club – and with the toughest doormen too.

Fri 12am–Mon. www.berghain.de.

Am Wriezener Bahnhof. G3

KATER BLAU A top-notch soundsystem driving house and techno beats from the best DJs, and a carnival-like atmosphere.

Fri–Sat from midnight. www.katerblau.de.

Holzmarktstr. 25. G3

TRESOR Housed in the safe of a department store, Tresor was the first techno club in Berlin’s post-Wall years. www.tresorberlin.com.

Köpenicker Str. 70. F3

WATERGATE A two-story electro, house, and drum & bass temple, right on the Spree River.

Tight doors. Mon, Wed–Sat from midnight. www.water-gate.de.

Falckensteinstr. 49. G4

HOUSE OF WEEKEND Three floors, fabulous views over the city, and the best DJs playing techno and house.

Fri–Sun from 11pm. www.week-end-berlin.de.

Alexanderplatz 7. F3

CLÄRCHENS BALLHAUS A popular, century-old dance hall. It's salsa on Mon, tango on Tues, swing on Wed, cha cha on Thu, and live ballroom music on Fri+Sat. www.ballhaus.de.

Auguststr. 24.

U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

HORNS & HOOVES An eccentric combination of club, piano bar, cabaret, and circus. www.hornsandhooves.de.

Danziger Str. 1. F1

GRETCHEN Funk, hip hop, drum & bass and electronica at this eclectic Kreuzberg club.

Fri & Sat. www.gretchen-club.de.

Obentrautstr. 19-21. E4

PURO SKY LOUNGE High-heeled crowds in a sleek, luxurious setting on the roof of the Europa Center.

Wed–Sat from 8pm. www.puroberlin.de.

Tauentzienstr. 9-12. C4

THE PEARL The Schöneberg district around Akazienstraße is filled with great cocktail bars, such as Salut! Classic Bar on Goltzstraße 7.

Luxurious club for the poshest crowds, Thu–Sat until 7am. www.thepearl-berlin.de.

Fasanenstr. 81. G4

www.wheretraveler.com 61

ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE USEFUL INFORMATION

BERLIN ESSENTIALS

Emergency numbers Police, call 110 free from any phone.

Ambulance or fire, call 112 free from any phone.

Medical Services, T: 030.310031.

24h Pharmacy: Hauptbahnhof Apotheke.

€

T: 030.20614190. S Hauptbahnhof.

Berlin Police hotline, T: 030.46644664.

Emergency dental services, T: 030.89004333.

Poison hotline, T: 030.19240.

National emergency number for on-call medical service, T: 116117.

Berlin lost and found office, T: 030.902773101.

BERLIN AIRPORTS Berlin Tegel (TXL) Approx. 10 km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150.

TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By bus: Buses 109 or X9 to Zoologischer Garten

run every 10 mins, taking approx. 20 mins. The TXL express bus to Alexanderplatz via Hauptbahnhof runs every 5–10 mins, taking. 25 mins. Single tickets cost €2.80 and can be bought on board.

By U-Bahn: Bus 109 or X9 connects to the U-Bahn system at Jakob-Kaiser-Platz. Bus 128 links to the U-Bahn at Kurt-Schumacher-Platz and runs every 10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. Tickets cost €2.80.

By taxi: Regular cabs take 10–20 mins to city center. Approx. €20–€35.

Left luggage: Service center in Terminal A (ground floor). T: 030.41012315.

TIPPING: In taxis, rounding up to the nearest euro is the general practice, and the same applies when ordering a beer at the pub. In nicer bars and in restaurants or cafés, tipping around 10% is customary, more if you feel the service was especially good. While it is fine to leave the tip on the table, local practice is to add the tip to the payment when settling up. For example, if the bill is €13 and you want to tip €2, say “Fifteen” to the server when paying.

TAXIS: All taxis in Berlin are the same color of pale beige and are generally clean, safe, and courteous. The meter begins at €3.90 and increases at €2 per km. After the 7th km, the rate reduces to €1.50 / km. Payments by card may incur a €1.50 surcharge. For short rides of 2 km or less, the flat-rate €5 Kurzstrecke fare pays off. The Kurzstrecke rate only applies to hailed taxi rides (not from taxi stands) and must be requested at the start of the ride.

SAFETY: Berlin is a relatively safe city, but beware of pickpockets in busy areas. When in crowded U-Bahn stations, tourist sites, busy markets, and the like, pay close attention to your belongings and valuables.

Alexanderplatz, Kottbusser Tor, Breitscheidplatz, Tauentzienstraße, and around Warschauer Straße station are especially favored by pickpocketers.

Berlin Schönefeld (SXF) Approx. 20 km (12 miles) southeast of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150.

TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By regional train: Deutsche Bahn-operated

GETTING AROUND Public Transport

www.bvg.de.

Fares Buy tickets from machines in the station, and be sure to validate them in the posts next to the ticket machines. Single tickets cost €2.80; or save by paying €9 for four single-trip tickets, which you can validate as you need. If traveling fewer than three train stations or six bus or tram stops, buy a short-trip ticket for €1.70. Day tickets cost €7 for unlimited travel until 3am the following day, or if you are traveling with others, a small group ticket will get up to five people unlimited travel for €19.90. For those staying longer, a pass valid for seven days may be a better value at €30.

62 W H E R E B E R L I N I M AY 2018

HEALTH: Few doctors’ practices open on weekends.

In urgent cases, call 030 310031 to request a home visit from an emergency doctor, or go to the nearest hospital emergency room. For medication, pharmacies offer rotating nighttime and weekend coverage (“Notdienst”).

Visit www.akberlin.de to search for one in your vicinity.

U-Bahn The underground system is extensive. Most lines run every five minutes (less frequently outside working hours), 4am–12:30am (replaced by night buses outside of these times). The entire U-Bahn and S-Bahn network runs all night on weekends.

S-Bahn The above-ground system is faster than the U-Bahn but less frequent.

Trains run every 10–20 mins.

Timing and ticket rules apply as above.

Public Ferries With a regular BVG ticket ,you can hop on one of the six public ferry lines. Most beautiful is the trip

PHONES: The local area code for landline phones is 030. Mobile phones have a wide variety of four-digit dialing codes beginning with 015-, 016-, or 017-. When dialing from a non-German landline or mobile phone, drop the zero before the area code or dialing code and add the German country code: +49 or 0049. Dialing a 0180 number will incur tolls. from Wannsee to lakeside Kladow village; ferries leave every hour and take about 20 minutes.

Rail Travel Deutsche Bahn is the railway company that manages the Regional Bahn (RB) and Regional Express (RE) trains, operating around greater Berlin and Potsdam. The Intercity (IC) and European City (EC) trains travel further afield. www.bahn.de. Toll number: 0180.6996633.

VBB is a public transportation authority created to reconnect Berlin to the surrounding Brandenburg area after German reunification.It offers services to metropolitan Berlin as well as to the rural communities in the countryside of Brandenburg. www.vbb.de

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RE7 or RB14 to Ostbahnhof, Alexanderplatz, Hauptbahnhof, and Zoologischer Garten. RE9 to Hauptbahnhof via Südkreuz and Potsdamer Platz.

Trains take approx. 45 mins. Tickets cost €3.40.

By S-Bahn: Trains S9 and S45 to Hauptbahnhof, via Ostkreuz and Südkreuz respectively, run. every 20 mins, taking approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.40.

By U-Bahn: Bus X7 and X11 to Rudow station connect with the U-Bahn system and run every 10 mins. Journey approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.40.

By (night) bus: Arrivals between midnight and 4am Mon–Fri can take bus N7 to central areas.

By taxi: Regular cabs take approx. 30 mins to city center, costing €30–€40.

Left luggage: At the multi-storey car park P4.

T: 030.60911150.

ESSENTIALS Rent A Bike Explore Berlin by bike.

Deutsche Bahn Call-a-Bike service:

www.callabike.de.

Taxis Würfelfunk: T: 030.210101.

MONEY SERVICES Banks and Foreign Exchange Exchange AG: Friedrichstr. 172. T: 030.20649296.

Deutsche Bank: Kurfürstendamm 111. T: 030.8904370.

Lost Cards and Cheques American Express: T: 069.97972000 Diners Club: T: 07531.3633111 MasterCard: T: 0800.8191040 Visa: T: 0800.8118440

Tax-Free Shopping German law entitles all non-EU residents to a VAT tax refund. Look for stores displaying the Premier Tax Free sign and ask for a "tax-free form." When leaving the EU, goods and the completed form must be shown to a customs agent, from which a customs stamp must be obtained no more than three months after the date of purchase. Goods must be unused. Present the stamped form at the refund counter in the airport, or send it to Premier Tax Free as soon as you reach your destination. www.premiertaxfree.com.

Berlin At Your Fingertips Have smartphone, will travel. Download the Where Berlin team’s favorite apps for enhancing any visit to the capital city. All of them are free, and available for both Android and Apple devices.

THE BERLIN WALL Made by the Federal Agency for Political Education, this award-winning app brings the Berlin Wall to life with interactive maps, archival photos and audio clips, walking tours, and more.

MY TAXI The rumors are true – Uber is banned in Berlin. Hail a ride using the My Taxi app instead, which also offers the option of making mobile payments.

DICT.CC A thorough, accurate, and easy-to-use German dictionary app that will have you communicating in no time.

FAHRINFO PLUS Get from A to B easily and efficiently with the BVG transit network’s app.

Besides route guidance and live departure info, the app also lets you buy mobile tickets to avoid fiddling with clunky ticket machines.

MEETUP Whether you’re in the mood to do yoga, play board games, or just find some new friends, the Meetup.com community in Berlin is lively and warm. A great way to meet locals and fill your social calendar.

DURST When the hour is late and the craving hits for some beer, chocolate, smokes, snacks, or any other life necessities, open this app to find the closest Späti (late-night corner store) in your vicinity.

MAP LICENSE NUMBER: BVG- 015-2-18.1-1; PHOTO BY SOLVEIG STEINHARDT

Stand: 7. Mai 2018 © Berliner Verkehrsbetriebe (BVG) 015-2-18.1-1

www.wheretraveler.com 63

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5

Sow Eh

WHERE NOW | LAURA VILLANUEVA GUERRA

My Berlin

LAURA VILLANUEVA GUERRA

Laura has a knack for making anyone hungry with her exquisite culinary creations. Since moving to Berlin in 2007, she has kept busy working as a chef and running her catering business, Tausendsuend.

Her monthly dinner series, An Introduction To, is a celebration of the most beautiful produce of the season. (For more details, flip to the Dining section on p. 50.) Whet your appetite by following her on Instagram @tausendsuend. www.tausendsuend.com

How did you get started with your catering business, Tausendsuend, and other food projects?

I had been working as a freelance chef and baker when I started developing my catering company in 2010. I began focusing on vegan baking and pastry and started my business Tausendsuend, noticing a lack of high-quality and interesting vegan baked goods. For me the focus is not 100% on being vegan, but more on bringing about a general change in the way we look at food. My vegan cakes and pastries are just as interesting as the non-vegan stuff.

Sometimes I don’t even mark them as vegan and the reactions of people who have prejudices towards vegan food are very interesting.

What are some ways you get ideas and inspirations for the dishes you create?

I work closely with some amazing regional organic farms. Strolling through an organic farmers market, going for a walk in the woods, or visiting friends in the countryside inspires me 66 W H E R E B E R L I N I M AY 2018

a lot. Generally, I would say my style is simple yet sophisticated, so finding a high-quality ingredient, organically grown and given to me from the earthy hands of a farmer – that is already half the story.

What are some seasonal ingredients that guests at your An Introduction To dinner this month might see on the menu?

May supplies us with all the early spring treasures, such as the first strawberries, asparagus, all kinds of salad greens, and my most beloved rhubarb, which we used to add an acidic component to our ovengrilled rainbow trout at last May’s edition of An Introduction To. What are your favorite recent food discoveries in Berlin?

I very much liked the restaurant Mrs. Robinson’s (www.mrsrobinsons.de) in Prenzlauer Berg and the Japanese restaurant LIFE on Maybachufer (www.life-berlin.business.site).

What places would you recommend to our foodie readers?

I love the farmers market on Winterfeldtplatz in Schöneberg, every Wednesday and Saturday from 8am–2pm. Perfect for a Saturday stroll!

Afterwards, have lunch at my favorite Korean restaurant, Ixthys at Pallasstr. 21, a very simply furnished place but the food is authentic and amazing. Then finish off with Berlin’s best ice cream at my friend Gabrielle Jones’s ice cream shop on Goltzstraße (www.jonesicecream.com).

Nothing more you could ask for on a sunny Saturday in May! Imagine you had the entire day off to spend however you chose. What would your perfect Berlin day look like?

If the weather was nice I’d go to Schlosspark Babelsberg in Potsdam. The beautiful gardens there were designed by the Prussian prince and landscape gardener Hermann von PücklerMuskau, aka Fürst Pückler. Afterwards I would visit the Braumanufaktur Potsdam (www. braumanufaktur.de) to sit on their beautiful terrace, drink some of Berlin’s best traditionally brewed beers and have a very rustic but delicious lunch, including homemade sausages and venison.

Clockwise from top left: Laura Villanueva Guerra; a dish at Mrs. Robinson's; Korean food at Ixthys; a cold beer. Inset: One of Villanueva's cake creations.

BEER: © ISTOCK; CAKE, PORTRAITS: COURTESY OF LAURA VILLANUEVA GUERRA. MRS. ROBINSON'S: COURTESY OF MRS. ROBINSON'S; IXTHYS: CC BY 2.0 VIA FLICKR USER HOLGER DIETERICH.

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