Where Magazine Florence July 2018

FLORENCE CITY GUIDE ®

JULY 2018

FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM

Who was Venus?

and other stories Chronicles from the golden olden days

ITALIAN-STYLE GIFT GUIDE

Our pick of the best seasonal trends

ALL THE ALLURE OF TUSCANY

Several out-of-town destinations for a fun, relaxing experience

SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS

Florence July 2018 V

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Loggia dei Lanzi

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Palazzo Borghese

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Torre degli Amidei

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VIA DELLA CONDOTTA

PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA

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PIAZZA PARTE GUELFA

Ponte Vecchio

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Loggia dell’ Orsanmichele Arte della Lana San Carlo dei Lombardi

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Galleria dell’Accademia

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Ospedale Santa Maria

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Museo Salvatore Ferragamo

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restaurants for a triumph of flavours, aromas and untold creativity.

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B E Eight L L O S Gstarred UARDO

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Ponte Amerigo Vespucci

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Porta San Frediano

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P. DELL'UNITÀ ALDOBRANDINI ITALIANA VIA DEL MELARANCIO

Basilica di Santa Maria Novella

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PIAZZA ADUA

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» MAP PAGES 78-79

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San Giuliano

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Giardino degli Orti Oricellari

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San Jacopo di Ripoli

58 MICHELIN-STARRED PIAZZA PIER VETTORI

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Several of the best shopping destinations not far from Florence.

PIAZZA TADDEO GADDI

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ON

PI

AN

A

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FR

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46 FASHION OUTLETS

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Chiesa Di San Bartolomeo a Monte Oliveto

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Stazione Leopolda

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Chiesa Parrocchiale Santissimo Crocifisso a Monticelli

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The best fashion designers for your high-end shopping.

VI AL E Ponte delle Cascine

Take advantage of your stay in Florence to enjoy this season’s latest offerings.

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Teatro dell’Opera

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Information and tips to experience the best that Florence has to offer

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Chiesa San Jacopino

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74 ESSENTIALS

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Giardino della Fortezza

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22 GIFT GUIDE

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32 LUXURY TOP BRANDS

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Chiesa Cattolica Parrocchiale Sacro Cuore al Romito

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[ SIGHTSEEING]

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DUOMO AND CUPOLA Completed in 1436, at the time the Duomo in Florence was the largest Christian church in the world. Today the religious building, the official name of which is “Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore”, is third in terms of dimensions after St. Peter’s in Rome and St. Paul’s Cathedral in London. Brunelleschi’s Dome, still the tallest construction in the city, is a symbol known all over the world. 1

CAMPANILE DI GIOTTO 84.70 metres high and around 15 wide, the Giotto’s bell tower is one of the four main components of the complex of Santa Maria del Fiore. Lined with white, red and green marble, the majestic square-based bell tower, designed by Giotto in 1334, can be visited by climbing no less than 414 stairs up to the top, from where you can enjoy extraordinary views of Brunelleschi’s Dome. 3

BATTISTERO The Baptistery of St. John the Baptist is characterised by an octagonal plan, lined with a dome of eight segments, covered by a pyramid roof. The outside is decorated with white marble from Carrara and green marble from Prato, characteristics of the Florentine architecture of the Romanesque period. 2

PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA AND PALAZZO VECCHIO This is the central square of Florence, the seat of civil power and social heart of the city. Facing onto it are Palazzo Vecchio (the seat of the Municipal Council of Florence), the splendid Loggia della Signoria, the Tribunale della Mercanzia, Palazzo Uguccioni and Palazzo delle Assicurazioni Generali. Also prominent in the

6 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I J U N E 2018

square are the Fountain of Neptune and a series of statues of Renaissance origin, representing one of the most important sculptural cycles in the world. The most famous is certainly Michelangelo’s David (this is a copy, whereas the original is conserved in the Galleria dell’Accademia). 4 GALLERIA DEGLI UFFIZI One of the most famous museums in the world on account of its extraordinary collections of ancient sculptures and paintings (from the Middle Ages to the modern age). The Gallery occupies the first and second floors of the large building erected between 1560 and 1580 based on a project by Giorgio Vasari 5 PONTE VECCHIO The official date of foundation of the current Ponte Vecchio is given as 1345. For the entire

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MORE AT PAGE 66 MAP PAGES 78-79 SAN MINIATO AL MONTE The Abbey of San Miniato al Monte is a medieval religious building situated at one of the highest panoramic points in Florence. The most spectacular access is gained via the monumental flight of steps. The outside of the church is decorated with green and white marble, typical of Florentine Romanesque, while the interior, which is unusual and of great beauty, boasts one of the city’s best conserved original floors. 10

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MERCATO CENTRALE Built at the end of the 19th century, the Central Market is a building of a certain architectural merit. The project was entrusted to Giuseppe Mengoni, the architect of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in Milan, who was inspired by Les Halles in Paris. Today, a point of reference for informal but good quality cuisine for both Florentines and tourists. 11 SANTA CROCE One of the “great basilicas” in Florence, a point of reference of the Franciscan order. Giotto painted some of his great masterpieces here and the French writer Stendhal experienced that profound artistic agitation that has been known since then as the “Stendhal syndrome”.

The basilica contains the monumental sepulchres of Michelangelo, Galileo and Machiavelli. 12

Middle Ages the bridge hosted greengrocers’, fishmongers’ and butchers’ shops, who used the river to dispose of their waste in a hurry.

At the end of the 16th century, however, when it became the “noble” zone of the city, the goldsmiths and jewellers started to arrive, and they have been there uninterruptedly to this day. 6 CORRIDOIO VASARIANO The Vasari Corridor is a raised walkway connecting Ponte Vecchio with Palazzo Pitti.

It is a rather narrow passage the entrance to which is at the beginning of the second corridor of the Uffizi Gallery; it then stretches along the Arno, over the Ponte Vecchio, finally arriving at Palazzo Pitti. It was built in 1565 by the great Florentine architect Giorgio Vasari. On display along the Corridor are over 1000 paintings. 7

SANTA MARIA NOVELLA A point of reference of the Dominican order, the church, with its elegant façade by Leon Battista Alberti, is a harmonious synthesis of Gothic and Renaissance styles. It hosts exceptional works of art by Masaccio, Giotto, Brunelleschi, Filippino Lippi, Domenico Ghirlandaio and Paolo Uccello. 13

PALAZZO PITTI AND GIARDINO DI BOBOLI The symbol of wealth and power, the building was inhabited by the Medici, then by the Habsburg-Lorraines and, after the Unity of Italy, by the Savoy family. The original architecture dates back to the 15th century and “Pitti” is the surname of its first owner. The building is located Oltrarno, at the foot of Boboli Hill. The Boboli Gardens are one of the most important examples of Italian-style gardens in the world. 8

SANTO SPIRITO A point of reference of the Augustinian order.

The church has given its name to the entire surrounding neighbourhood, “Borgo Santo Spirito”. A jewel of Renaissance architecture, the church was the last great project by Filippo Brunelleschi. 14

PIAZZALE MICHELANGELO This is the most famous and appreciated panoramic point in Florence, with its views seen all over the world in million of postcards and reproductions. The design of the square dates back to 1869, when Florence was capital of Italy. Dedicated to the city’s most famous artist, the square has bronze copies of some of Michelangelo’s most famous sculptures. 9

SAN LORENZO One of the “great basilicas” of Florence, founded, according to the tradition, by Saint Ambrose, the first bishop of Milan, in the 4th century AD. Its current appearance, however, is the result of the last major reconstruction work that took place in the 15th century at the wishes of the Medici and under the direction of the great architect Filippo Brunelleschi. 15 w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 7

WHERE NOW | HOT DATES JULY

10 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I J U LY 2018

JULY Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates.

EXHIBITION

2 14 JUNE

OCTOBER

COSMIC MEASUREMENTS Closed during the winter season, Forte di Belvedere reopens each summer as an important exhibition venue for major contemporary artists. This year it is hosting a significant anthological exhibition devoted to Eliseo Mattiacci, one of the pioneers of the Italian avantgarde of the late 1960s: twenty sculptures displayed both outside the Forte, where the large steel works of cosmic-astronomic inspiration are set out in the spacious terraced gardens, and inside the Villa.

During the weekend it is possible to take advantage of guided visits to the exhibition, which also include the history of this magnificent 16th-century villa, from where one of the best view of Florence can be enjoyed.

PHOTOS © SIMONA FOSSI

Gong. Eliseo Mattiacci al Forte di Belvedere Visits to Forte di Belvedere and the exhibition: Sat 4pm and 5.30pm, Sun 11am and 12.30pm Forte di Belvedere, Via di San Leonardo, 1 www.musefirenze.it

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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES DANCE

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ART A DAZZLING CONSTELLATION OF ‘ETOILES’

▼ Roberto Bolle, one of the greatest male dancers of all time (see photo), is set to stage his highly acclaimed Roberto Bolle and Friends gala in Florence.

JULY Located just steps from the Duomo, this unique performance, organized and directed by Bolle, will be held in the city’s Piazza della Santissima Annunziata. The event, featuring an eclectic mix of techniques, styles and schools, will offer audiences a unique opportunity to admire some of the world’s greatest dancers gathered together in the same place, on the same evening.

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AN EVENING WITH MICHELANGELO

▲ Every Tuesday and Thursday in summer, the Galleria JUNE SEPTEMBER dell’Accademia in Florence extends its opening hours to 10pm, enabling you to stroll among its many masterpieces feeling cooler and more relaxed. This important museum owes its huge popularity to the presence of a number of sculptures by Michelangelo: the Prisoners, St. Matthew, but above all the famous David, an icon of Florence, the symbol of male beauty and perfection. The one on display at the Accademia is the original work, and was moved here for its protection in 1873 from Piazza della Signoria, where it was replaced by a faithful copy.

Galleria dell’Accademia di Firenze Open until 10pm Via Ricasoli 58/60. www.galleriaaccademiafirenze.beniculturali.it

JAZZ

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CARIOCA SOUNDS AMONG THE ANCIENT STONES

► After the great success of Carioca in 2007, jazz pianist Stefano Bollani (see photo) returns to his great love for JULY Brazilian rhythms with Que Bom, an album and a tour in summer 2018, consisting almost entirely of previously unpublished and original pieces by Bollani, focusing on the enchanting sounds of Brazilian percussion. The concert takes place in the charming and unique setting of the Roman Theatre in Fiesole, which is part of the green, scenic Archaeological Park.

Stefano Bollani Teatro Romano, Via Portigiani, 3 – Fiesole (Florence) www.estatefiesolana.it

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PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK

Roberto Bolle and Friends 9.15pm Piazza della Santissima Annunziata www.musartfestival.it #musartfestival

JULY FESTIVAL

PHOTOGRAPHY

▼ Born as a ghetto subculture, Hip Hop has not only been JULY JULY a musical genre of great intensity but it has hit fashion, dance, graphics and visual arts like a tsunami and changed young people’s behavioural and linguistic codes. Over the years US photographer Michael Lavine has shot photos for magazine covers and numerous photographic portraits associated with that world that have since become iconic. This weekend is the last opportunity to visit the exhibition devoted to Lavine, where through 30 famous images it is possible to look back over the evolution of this important cultural phenomenon.

Hip Hop History. Photographs by Michael Lavine Barberino Designer Outlet Via Meucci, Barberino di Mugello (30 minutes from Florence) outlets.mcarthurglen.com/it/it/designer-outlet-barberino

PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK

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FROM THE GHETTO TO THE ART GALLERY

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JUGGLERS AND MAGICIANS INSIDE THE ANCIENT WALLS

▲ Every year (for 31 years now!) Certaldo, a magnificent little town in the hills not far from Florence, hosts one of the most beautiful street JULY JULY festivals: Mercantia-International Fourth Theatre Festival. Within the walls of the town, in the historic centre of one of the most picturesque locations in the Florentine province, thousands of curious visitors mixing with the street artists flow through the narrow streets like a flooding river, with performances, stalls and artisan stands.

In the programme there are almost 100 events and performances and 400 different artists who will exhibit their works every evening: theatre, bands, parades, dance, visual arts and more besides.

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31st Mercantia-International Fourth Theatre Festival Certaldo Alto (Florence) www.mercantiacertaldo.it

DANCE PARTY

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SWING IN THE FORMER PRISON

The complex of Le Murate, in the ancient neighbourhood of Santa Croce, has JULY undergone many transformations over time, from a monastery of cloistered nuns to a male penitentiary, to a cultural centre and fashionable meeting place.

On 20 July, starting from 7.30pm, it will become a New York street at the time of the jazz clubs thanks to live swing music, captivating dancers and aperitifs. A great opportunity for fun and entertainment, for those who want to get involved and also for those who just want to watch the show.

Le Murate in Swing from 7.30pm Le Murate Caffè Letterario, Piazza delle Murate. www.lemurate.it Photo: Stefano Scheda w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 13

PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK

WHERE NOW | FOCUS

Equestrian statue of Cosimo de’ Medici

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Tuscan Dynasty

They have been princes, popes or merchants; they have spread their surnames around the streets, squares and buildings; their portraits have made art history. But what has happened to the great Florentine families of the Renaissance? Many are still here, and have become successful brands

BY ELENA BINDA Elena Binda Lifestyle Editor Where ® Italia

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n 1427, the richest Florentine was a certain Palla Nofri Strozzi of Santa Maria Novella, with an income of 162,906 florins, followed some way behind by Francesco Simone Tornabuoni with 109,333 florins. This information has reached us because in that year the Signoria, the city’s government, in need of money, carried out an obligatory census in order to tax families based on their wealth: this was a first praiseworthy experiment in fiscal equity that has long been studied by economists. However, in 2016 two researchers from the Banca d’ Italia decided to use the data in an unprecedented way, by comparing the list of the rich people of the time with those of today. Medici, Panciatichi, Portinari, Bardi, Peruzzi, Lambertesca, Barbadori, Pazzi, Giacomini, Serragli, Guicciardini, Albizi: these surnames are recurrent in the history and toponymy of Florence.

The result, which is almost unbelievable for those who study statistics and demographics, shows without a shadow of a doubt that the rich of that time and the rich of today are the very same families!

Whether your instinct is to admire the force of tradition or to be horrified by the lack of social mobility in Italy, you must nevertheless agree that the data are striking: the weight of history, in this city, is truly everywhere. It is worthwhile, therefore, to delve into this Florentine peculiarity, attempting to disentangle who the great families that have made their mark are. Way beyond the city’s confines.

The equestrian statue of Cosimo de’ Medici, the first Grand Duke of Tuscany, dominates Piazza della Signoria: it was created by Giambologna in 1587. In the box, a map of Florence drawn by Antonio Campani in 1822 shows the evolution of the city walls. Above, a detail of “The Adoration of the Magi” by Gentile da Fabriano, which is conserved in the Uffizi. In the work the painter included a portrait of his patron Palla Strozzi (with the falcon), the richest man in Florence in 1427. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 17

WHERE NOW | FOCUS Santa Maria Novella, Tornabuoni chapel

Beatrice Portinari

On the left, the Tornabuoni Chapel in Santa Maria Novella, with the fine cycle of frescoes by Domenico Ghirlandaio.

Above: Beatrice Portinari, Dante’s muse, imagined by 20th-century British painter of Greek descent Marie Spartali Stillman.

On the following page, the Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana, a splendid example of the Medici’s patronage: the building, designed by Michelangelo, hosts one of the major collections of manuscripts in the world. The statue of Leon Battista Alberti outside the Uffizi.

FROM FLORENCE TO THE WHOLE WORLD Dante Alighieri and his muse Beatrice Portinari both belonged to the Florentine nobility, as did the other leading medieval poet, Guido Cavalcanti. In the Renaissance, its members included scientist Galileo Galilei and Francesco Guicciardini, the father of historiography, read and studied in all the universities of the planet, but also Amerigo Vespucci, explorer of the “New World”. From one branch of the very Tuscan family Alberti that moved to Genoa came Leon Battista Alberti, the architect and multi-talented Renaissance artist, while Pietro Cesare Alberti (1608-1655), a Venetian descendant of the family, was the first documented Italian to settle in the Dutch colony of New Amsterdam (today’s New York) and is therefore considered to be the first Italian American in history. Even the Bonaparte family was Florentine, before being exiled for political reasons in France, where centuries later Napoleon himself was born (who, it seems, had politics and exile in his DNA).

And long after Guido, the chef and scholar Ippolito Cavalcanti also belonged to the already mentioned Cavalcanti family; with his literary 18 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I J U LY 2018

work “Cucina teorico-pratica” from 1837, he was the precursor of every master chef of today.

In 1835 Giosuè Carducci, poet and Nobel prizewinner, came from the Carducci family.

But there were not only lineages of blue blood among the noteworthy Florentines; indeed there were many families who made their fortunes through a trade: the Albizi produced wool, the Torrigiani were the first to export to Russia, the Acciaiuoli traded steel, and so on.

Many estates, as we have said, have survived directly since the 15th century, but some fortunes are more recent, such as that of the Ginori family, who founded their porcelain company in 1735, to later merge it, in 1869, with the Richard company, becoming a well-known brand at world level. And when they were neither nobles nor merchants, the powerful Florentines were bankers, as in the case of the Bardi, who invented a banking structure in the form of a “holding”.

On the subject of great families and personalities of finance, it must be remembered that Gianni Agnelli, the famous entrepreneur of Fiat (today Fiat Chrysler Automobiles) descended from an ancient Florentine dynasty on his mother’s side, while the Florentine

Lorenzo Bini Smaghi, a leading personality at the European Central Bank, comes from the noble Bini family.

POLITICS, HISTORY AND ART It is in the circles of these families that the dominant political themes of Florentine history developed: such as the rivalry between the “Guelphs” and the “Ghibellines” (supporters of the Pope or the Emperor) or, later, the fracture into the factions of “White” and “Black” Guelphs (subcategories of the Guelphs, which came about – it is said – from the deteriorating relations between neighbouring Cerchi and Donati families). And what can we say about the Pittis? They attempted to challenge the rise of the Medici and, as is known, were defeated.

Perhaps in order to humiliate them, the new Grand Duke wanted their palace as his new monumental residence; it is an irony of history that the decision to retain the original name of Palazzo Pitti, to highlight whom it was taken from, is what has perpetuated the memory of the defeated to this day. The thread running through that links Florentine passion with political commitment has also left its traces in the more recent history of this nation: for

Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana

Leon Battista Alberti

Their name on every street corner The Capponi are the only family, apart from the Medici, to have two streets named after them in Florence: Via Pier Capponi and Via Gino Capponi, which sometimes forces postmen and women to make additional efforts. The Strozzi, on the other hand, have a palace, a street, an avenue and a square named after them. In addition to the already mentioned and very famous Palazzo Pitti, with the attached Boboli Gardens, many other noble dwellings can also be remembered, in random order: Palazzo Barberini Salimbeni was lived in by the family’s descendants until the 1830s. The name of the Bartolommei is associated with various buildings, including the 19th-century Palazzo Bartolommei in Via Cavour and a 17th-century Palazzo Bartolommei-De Rossi in Piazza Gaetano Salvemini. The Bini family possessed various buildings, especially in the area of Via Romani, where the oratory of San Sebastiano de’ Bini is located, while today La Specola Museum is housed in Palazzo Torrigiani. The Corsini are still owners of Palazzo Corsini al Prato and of Palazzo Corsini sul Lungarno. Palazzo Davanzati is in Florence in Via di Porta Rossa, and is so representative of the architecture of the time that it has been turned into the Museum of the Ancient Florentine House.

And we could go on for hours. But there are also those whose names have gone down in history for other reasons: in 1200, because of the construction of the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, it was necessary to purchase the houses located on the site. The Bischeri, the owners of various buildings, attempted to earn as much as possible from this, until a nighttime fire reduced their fortune to ashes. Still today, in Florentine a “bischero” is someone who thinks they are clever but actually comes across as an idiot. The power of history.

Palazzo Gino Capponi Some of the most famous poets and patriots of the age stayed in Palazzo Gino Capponi, in the street of the same name, during the 19th century.

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WHERE NOW | FOCUS

Guess who?

Do you know what Simonetta Cattaneo Vespucci looked like? Yes, of course you do, because the lady, considered the most beautiful Florentine of the 15th century, was praised by the poet Poliziano but, above all, was portrayed by Botticelli as Venus. And Lisa Gherardini? Well, you have probably already seen her, because she is Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa. Maddalena Strozzi was portrayed by Raphael, Raffaello Sanzio. But the most astonishing gallery of portraits of the Florentine nobility comes to us from Bronzino, who immortalised the Medici family and many nobles of his time with a realism and an abundance of details that merits an encyclopaedia in its own right.

Palazzo Antinori works: the Rucellai commissioned the façade of Santa Maria Novella, the Vecchietti discovered Giambologna, the Bartolini sponsored Paolo Uccello and the Frescobaldi commissioned the Basilica of Santo Spirito.

Without their ambition, culture and good taste, Florence would not be Florence.

example, the family of one of the creators of the Unity of Italy, Count Camillo Benso di Cavour, was of Tuscan origin. Of course, what we are most indebted to these great families for is their fondness for patronage: a way of consolidating and manifesting power that has given us some of the greatest masterpieces in the history of art. Noble Florentines were protectors of artists, buyers and collectors of paintings and major financers of architectural 20 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I J U LY 2018

THE OLDEST FIRMS IN THE WORLD But art is not the only thing: there are other “masterpieces” that Florentine families have known how to produce for centuries. The listing of the oldest family businesses in the world that are still operating was drafted at the end of 2008 and includes ten companies for which activities can be documented uninterruptedly over centuries. Of these, no less than five are Italian and three, in particular, are Florentine.

Barone Ricasoli has produced wine since 1141, while the Antinori Marquises have “only” been active since 1385. To this day, Ricasoli is still the wine producing company that is most representative of the territory of Chianti Classico, while the Marchesi Antinori are much acclaimed in the sector for having introduced genuine milestones. And we must also add the Frescobaldi family to the podium of noble wine producers. The dynasty can boast outstanding artists, such as the 14th-century poet Dino Frescobaldi, who was among Dante’s closest friends, or the composer of Baroque music Girolamo Frescobaldi. But above all today the surname is a prestigious label. Even though it does not appear among the ten oldest, the Frescobaldi firm is also historical, and can boast a wholly unique distinction: that it paid Michelangelo Buonarroti in bottles of wine.

The third company in the top ten is the Antica Manifattura Orafa Torrini, a brand registered since 1369, which still possesses its much admired goldsmith’s shop in Florence.

Completing the picture of entrepreneurs coming from historical families, we must mention Tommaso Corsini, founder in the 19th century of Fondiaria Assicurazioni, Cosimo Ridolfi, who established the Cassa di Risparmio in Florence, Luigi Ridolfi, who launched the Fiorentina football club. Last but not least, fashion: the stylist Emilio Pucci and the designer of handbags Gherardini are heirs of centuries-old dynasties.

FIVE POPES FROM FLORENCE Naturally, given the influence that Florence had on the Renaissance, Tuscan families have not missed out on the honour of seeing some of their members become pope. There have been five Florentine popes, who have met with varying fortunes. Leo X, pontiff from 1513 to 1521, was the fourth child of Lorenzo the Magnificent, and dealt diligently with increasing the family’a wealth and prestige. Clement VII, whose lay name was Giulio de’ Medici, incumbent from 1523 to 1534, was the pope of the famous “sack of Rome” by the Landsknechts.

The unfortunate Alessandro de’ Medici, on the other hand, was only Leo XI for a few weeks, before his sudden death. Urban VII, born Maffeo Barberini, was pope from 1623 to 1644; his conduct was mercilessly immortalised in the saying “what the Barbarians did not do, the Barberini did”. This play on words highlighted the greed and voracity with which the pope stripped ancient monuments to decorate his palaces: it seems that even the Coliseum was used by him as a quarry for construction materials! To redeem the renown of Florentines, Lorenzo Corsini arrived in 1730, with the name of Clement XII: an outstanding personality, whom Rome must thank – among other things – for the Trevi Fountain. Because patronage may begin at home but it doesn’t end there.

WHERE NOW | SIGHTSEEING

Discovering Ponte Vecchio It is one of the undisputed symbols of Florence and, as such, is one of the most photographed sites in the world. Here are some details so you can get to know it better. B Y A M A L A N G E L O T T I

ORIGINAL ARCHITECTURE The bridge is characterised by a solution with lowered arches, never previously seen, which makes it particularly stable and its profile unmistakable. From the very beginning, it was understood to be a natural continuation of the road, and so it has shops and porticos along both sides facing towards the centre, each with a single shop window closed by strong wooden doors, and often with a picturesque backroom protruding over the river.

Then, grafted onto the high part of the bridge is the Vasari Corridor, the strategic passageway that was built at the wishes of Cosimo de’ Medici

PHOTOS © SHUTTERSTOCK

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irst of all, it must be said that Ponte Vecchio (literally “Old Bridge”) is indeed “old”. The first to identify a ford in the Arno were the Etruscans. The Roman founders of the village of “Florentia” built a wood and stone bridge there, the forerunner of the current one, which dates back to around 1345. Since then, with all the various restorations and modifications, this passage across the Arno has remained in its place, actively participating in the history of the city.

in 1565 to connect the administrative buildings to his private residence, without exposing the sovereign to any danger.

A UNIQUE HISTORY The change of identity of the zone during the Renaissance is due precisely to the Vasari Corridor. The traditional shops of greengrocers, butchers and fishmongers, who had a preference for the bridge on account of the ease with which they could throw their waste into the river, were evicted en bloc: it was preferred to offer the sovereign goldsmiths’ and jewellers’ shops, which were more appropriate for his gaze (and his nose), and they have continued their presence there ever since for the pleasure of tourists. Since then, Ponte Vecchio has been an assiduous witness – and sometimes a protagonist – of the history of

the city: considering it a source of great pride, Mussolini invited Hitler there in 1938, opening up new larger, more panoramic windows for his benefit. One rather romanticised version claims that Hitler himself, cherishing the memory of such beauty, would decide to save the bridge from the terrible bombing campaigns of 1944.

Unfortunately, the historical reconstruction seems to prove that this merit cannot be ascribed to the German dictator.

LUXURY SHOPPING For more than four hundred years, Ponte Vecchio has therefore been inhabited by artisans creating admirable gold and silver objects. Still today, this remains the commercial vocation of the neighbourhood, which is nevertheless not lacking in other luxury trades, starting with artisan leather goods. Obviously, the accesses and areas surrounding the Bridge, between via Por Santa Maria and Lungarno degli Archibusieri on one side, and between Borgo San Jacopo and via de’ Guicciardini on the other, are also swarming with points of interest and high-quality shops. Bear in mind, however, that sometimes you need only turn into an unknown alley to get away from the bustling crowds and enjoy a carefree stroll.

UNDER THE BRIDGE Finally, you should know that there is also life under the bridge: the historic Società Canottieri Firenze, as well as bringing together sporting rowers, is a point of reference for the activities that take place on the banks of the river. Today, the Circle also offers a stupendous location for aperitifs, lunches and dinners. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 21

WHERE NOW | SHOPPING

GIFT

GUIDE Take advantage of a stroll through Florence to treat yourself to an accessory, a fragrance, a jewellery item or some other alluring stylish detail. Where ® brings you the pick of the best seasonal trends and guarantees that you won’t leave empty-handed!

► DODO Every Dodo pendant has its own meaning: the pink gold and enamel ‘Leaf’ charm bears a romantic promise of protection.

Combined with a lacquered brown silver chain or a cord with pink gold discs, this is the perfect accessory to complete every outfit with a small stylish detail. www.dodo.com

◄ TIFFANY & CO. Precious materials such as platinum and diamonds take on a new meaning in the ‘Paper Flower’ collection. These pendants with floral motifs are the emblem of a modern, discreet femininity, perfect to be worn every day. www.tiffany.it

Giulia Minero Lifestyle & News Editor Where ® Italia

◄ DR. VRANJES Decanter containing a fine Tuscan red or a room fragrance?

Let the olfactory notes based on orange, violet and magnolia sublimated by the combination with plum, strawberry and forest fruits of the ‘Rosso Nobile’ perfume diffuser reveal it. drvranjes.it

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▼ BRUNELLO CUCINELLI Sporting and refined at the same time, these leather sneakers came about from a clever combination of different colours and materials, such as nylon, chamois and Crack calfskin. The innovative sole with EVA bottom makes them light and comfortable. www.brunellocucinelli.com

◄ PINEIDER Since 1774 Pineider has been synonymous with hand-crafting mastery. Made using precious turned resin, the ‘La Grande Bellezza’ fountain pen has been hand-painted internally so that its veins recall the colour shades of celluloid. www.pineider.com

► ROLEX 18ct Everose gold makes its entry into the ‘GMT-Master II Rolesor Everose’ range, calibre 3285.

The name in powder pink stands out on the quadrant, while the lunette has a two-colour Cerachrom disk in a new tone of brown. www.rolex.com

▼ IL BISONTE Each small leather accessory from Il Bisonte, such as the ‘Continental’ wallet, credit card holder and coin purse, is made using the most precious cowhide leather, available in a vast range of fashionable colours. www.ilbisonte.com

▲ VALENTINO Audacious and with a rock ‘n’ roll spirit, ‘Rockstud’ printed calfskin décolleté shoes with striped motif have a 10 cm stiletto heel, straps and contrasting profiles and small hand-applied metal studs. www.valentino.com

▲ CHANEL Easy to apply with a homogeneous and long-lasting result, ‘Les Vernis’ nail varnishes make your fingernails stand out with vibrant colours, protecting them thanks to their special ultra-resistant film.

Here in the shades ‘Nuvola Rosa’ and ‘Pirate’, real musts for the summer. www.chanel.com

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PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK

WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN

Not just Florence If Florence offers tourists an unrivalled cultural and historical heritage, its surrounding area no less so. Here are some suggestions for trips outside the city that are able to satisfy any need. For more details ask your concierge. By Chiara Zaccarelli

Chiara Zaccarelli Travel Editor Where ® Italia

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I

f you choose Florence as your base, the good news is that around an hour away by train, bus or car you will find UNESCO heritage cities of art, dreamy countryside, natural thermal springs, medieval towns and abbeys and kilometres of coastline for bathers.

The only problem is in having to make a choice, particularly if you have just a few days available.

CITIES OF ART If you love cities of art then you’ve chosen the right region. Indeed, within an hour’s range from the Tuscan regional capital there are architectural wonders that will catapult you into medieval and Renaissance Tuscany.

About an hour by train from Florence is Lucca, one of Tuscany’s most fascinating historic centres, surrounded by ancient

Tuscany’s soft rolling hills

16th-century walls, today still practically fully intact and walkable in their entirely. You can cycle along the tree-lined walls, stop for a tasty ice cream or simply cool down on the benches. The picturesque historic centre has remained almost intact, including countless medieval churches, which have earned Lucca the nickname of “city of the 100 churches”, Renaissance squares and buildings and Roman amphitheatres.

The famous Leaning Tower of Pisa can also be easily reached from Florence in about an hour by train. Loved by tourists from all over the world for its peculiar tilt, the Tower of Pisa is in reality the bell tower of the Cathedral, which stands in a unique monumental context, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site: Piazza dei Miracoli. Here, after the unmissable ascent of the Tower, you can visit the Cathedral itself, the Baptistery,

the Cemetery, the Palazzo dell’Opera of the Cathedral and the Sinopie Museum.

Once you’ve completed your visit to this unbelievable square, if you have a little time left, you can relax with a walk along the Arno to the historic centre and Piazza dei Cavalieri, the political fulcrum of medieval Pisa. Facing onto the square is Palazzo della Carovana, with graffiti by Giorgio Vasari, which today houses the Scuola Normale Superiore, one of the most prestigious universities in the world.

With a brief trip by coach from Florence (looking at the idyllic landscape of the Tuscan countryside through the window) you reach Siena, one of the most loved medieval centres in Italy, which is also included on the UNESCO World Heritage List. The city’s nerve centre is Piazza del Campo, which is renowned for its unique shell shape, for its architectural integrity, and because twice a year (2 July and 16 August) it holds the Palio di Siena, a horse race that is of fundamental importance for the Sienese, which sees the seventeen historic districts that comprise the city compete against each other. The square is dominated by a series of buildings of inestimable historical and architectural value, including the 14th-century Palazzo Pubblico and the attached Torre del Mangia, with its characteristic red colour, the Cappella di Piazza, a marble tabernacle with splendid sculptures, the Loggia della Mercanzia and Palazzo Sansedoni. But Siena

PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK

Siena

San Gimignano Nature at its wildest in the area of the Crete Senesi, the medieval towns with their towers standing out among the green hills and the crowds in Piazza del Campo on the occasion of the traditional Palio di Siena (2 July and 16 August).

This is Tuscany too.

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is not just Piazza del Campo: lose yourself along the picturesque medieval alleys, with their succession of churches, palaces and shops where you can purchase the local hand-crafted goods or taste the traditional panforte, the typical Sienese spiced bread with almonds, candied fruit and pepper.

And a few kilometres from Siena, another town declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO awaits you with its towers and its characteristic medieval architecture. It is the unmissable San Gimignano, reachable by coach from Siena and Florence and situated in the heart of the Tuscan countryside.

Walking round this small town, the 13th / 14th-century appearance of which is still practically unchanged, is almost like going back in time. San Gimignano is famous above all for its medieval towers, which were as many as 72 at one time and today are just fifteen, including some in ruins and without their tops but still visible as part of the urban fabric. Nevertheless, the effect of arriving from the countryside and seeing the outline of the town emerge still leaves you breathless.

LUGANO MENDRISIO

PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK

WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN

Greve in Chianti

olive groves and cypress trees in the surreal peacefulness of the Chianti hills?

Let’s now leave this idyllic setting and move towards a wilder, more barren territory, that of the Crete Senesi. Located in the area south-east of Siena, the crete are clay hills, the result of the continuous erosion of the sea sediments that covered the zone millions of years ago. These bare, softly undulating hills, with their characteristic grey-blue colour and almost lunar appearance, are dotted with cypresses and farmhouses and still encapsulate the essence of the most authentic Tuscany; they are far removed from the tourist routes, rich in traces and remains of ancient civilisations, picturesque medieval towns and culinary festivals (of which that of the white truffle, typical of the zone, stands out in particular).

BERGAMO BRESCIA

NATURALISTIC ITINERARIES Florence is surrounded by hills, gentle valleys and luxuriant vineyards. Climbing them is easy, both on foot (if you are keen on trekking then it will just be a stroll for you) and on the numerous buses departing from the city centre. Over the years the hill of Fiesole has been the source of inspiration for artists, spiritual figures, noble families, writers and entrepreneurs. From this privileged observatory, dotted with villas, museums, archaeological excavations, churches and convents, you can enjoy beautiful views of Florence and the Florentine countryside. If you love panoramas, another unmissable spot is the small town of Settignano, this too easy to reach from the city centre; in the past it has been chosen as a residence by painter Telemaco Signorini, poet Gabriele d’Annunzio and writer Mark Twain, all fascinated by its gentle hills and calm atmosphere.

The very famous Chianti zone, renowned for its vineyards, verdant valleys, rows of cypresses, olive groves, towns and abbeys built on hilltops, is around half an hour by car from the centre of Florence. If you are lucky enough to be there between September and November you can witness two key events for the economy and culture of the territory: the harvesting of grapes and olives.

Can you think of anything more romantic than enjoying a picnic on a warm late summer day, sipping new wine and tasting the speciality of the location, surrounded by

NOVARA

MILANO

ALESSANDRIA

GENOVA

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THERMAL SPRINGS Tuscany is the region that boasts the largest number of spa structures in Italy, thanks to the presence of numerous water deposits famous since antiquity for the treatment of numerous pathologies. From Florence you can easily reach numerous natural springs and although many have now become part of spa establishments, others are still free, so you can dip in their warm waters and benefit from their therapeutic properties at zero cost, or at very affordable prices. Whether you just want to relax or treat yourself to a beauty treatment, or you have some ailment to be treated, you are spoiled for choice.

In the heart of Maremma, in the Province of Grosseto, is the park of the Saturnia Thermal Baths, a fully fledged resort with open-air thermal pools, hydromassage,

FORTE DEI MARMI

BOLOGNA LUCCA

PISA

THE APPENNINI MOUNTAIN RIDGE

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vascular circuits, hotels and restaurants, one of the largest oases of relaxation in the whole of Tuscany. Or maybe you prefer a wilder, less expensive alternative?

The nearby Cascate del Gorello form a waterfall that flows around an ancient mill giving rise to a series of natural pools dug into the rock. The water has a temperature of 37.5°C and thanks to the presence of thermal plankton has beneficial effects on the skin and the digestive, circulatory and motor systems. Entry to the falls is free of charge, and although they have no facilities they are open 24 hours a day, every day, even in winter. Let’s move to the province of Siena now, to immerse ourselves in the sulphur waters of the Thermal Baths of Petriolo. Already known in the Roman era, these waters gush out at a temperature of 43°C, are rich in salts and are traditionally used to cure the various pathologies of the respiratory tracts. These springs too can

Pier footpath promenade, beach and Apuane mountains in Forte dei Marmi Versilia

be enjoyed both free of charge and at the establishments with their attached hotel structures. On the outskirts of Montecatini Terme, on the other hand, is the spectacular Grotta Giusti, a thousand-year-old natural cave that winds its way amid stalactites and stalagmites to reach a stretch of crystalclear water. Its waters have a temperature of between 27°C and 34°C and mud therapy and balneotherapy are practised there in baths enriched with ozone to stimulate the metabolism of the blood vessels.

THE BEACHES Your bathing costume and beach towel are probably not the first things you think of putting in your suitcase if you are about to set off for Florence, but if you visit in the summer you might feel the desire to seek a little refreshment at one of the many beaches dotted along the Tuscan coastline.

Although the Medici city is deep inland,

there are in fact various beaches that can be easily reached both by car and by train.

The closest, the preferred destination of chic Florentines, is Forte dei Marmi, located in north-western Tuscany, with its long wellequipped beaches, dotted with venues frequented by VIPs, fashion boutiques and exclusive nightspots. Further south, in the province of Livorno, you breathe an entirely different atmosphere. Vada is perfect for nature lovers with its free beaches; here the water is shallow and transparent and the sand pale and fine. Castiglioncello, on the other hand, is known as “the pearl of the Tyrrhenian” on account of its breathtaking landscapes, characterised by sheer cliffs, coves and pinewoods. Very easy to reach by train directly from Florence, the beach at Quercianella, again in the province of Livorno, is excellent for lovers of the Mediterranean maquis and perfect for diving and snorkelling enthusiasts.

Pedalling through Tuscany Would you like to discover the area around Florence from a different perspective, more on a human scale and in contact with nature? Then you can opt for a bicycle tour. Pedalling along the romantic olive groves, vineyards, medieval town and Medici villas, taking in the perfumes and colours of the Tuscan countryside in ways that would otherwise be impossible. After the effort of pedalling, almost all the tours envisage rest and refreshment with visits to wine cellars and the tasting of wines, olive oils and local specialities. If you are not particularly sporty but would still like to visit the outskirts of Florence from this unique perspective, then you can choose a tour by Vespa, with that irresistible vintage touch that is undoubtedly less tiring. Ask your concierge.

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PHOTOS © SHUTTERSTOCK

Saturnia

WHERE NOW | SHOPPING

WELCOME TO FORTE DEI MARMI footwear for more than forty years now, and Giovanni del Forte, who manufactures hand-made clogs for VIPs and royal families, or Principe di Firenze, a tailor’s shop of yesteryear, with its age-old charm and bundles of precious fabrics. The nights, on the other hand, pass quickly, in fashionable nightspots such as Twiga or the historic La Capannina di Franceschi, an iconic venue from the 1960s, which has made a powerful contribution to building up the iconography of the Forte dei Marmi of the period and still today, with all its highs and lows, it still succeeds in exciting.

Twiga Beach Club Forte dei Marmi

The bikes, the scent of maritime pines, the focaccine, the Wednesday market, the long pier stretching into the sea, the historic beach clubs with their striped umbrellas and the Liberty-style villas hidden away in the shade of the pinewood. This, and so much more, is Forte dei Marmi, the seaside resort in the province of Lucca that takes its name from the fort located in the town centre and from the marbles of the nearby Apuan Alps. Located around an hour and a half by train from Florence, but also reachable by bus (ask your concierge), since the early 20th century it has fascinated industrialists such as the Agnelli and Siemens families and intellectuals such as Thomas Mann or Luchino Visconti, to name just a few, also becoming a point of reference for European high society. The major tourism boom occurred in the post-war

period, when it became one of the most glamorous holiday resorts in Italy and was invaded by VIPs and famous personalities, the Milanese and Tuscan upper middle class and “holidaymakers” hoping to have a little stardust sprinkled on themselves.

Today “Il Forte”, as the regulars call it, not without a touch of self-congratulatory snobbery, retains its own refined, hazy aura.

Here, in the summer months, the days pass lazily, between the beach (no less than 5 kilometres long) and the pinewood. Among the historic establishments are the Silvio, Piero and Annetta beach clubs, but more recently fashionable new entry international clubs such as Nikki Beach (the one in Saint Tropez, in other words) are also doing well.

In the late afternoon, before an aperitif at Almarosa, frequented by footballers and stars of the entertainment world, you can go shopping in the boutiques in the town centre. And if you linger a while to watch the sunset from the beach, don’t worry, because the shops stay open here till late evening in the summer months.

All the major brands, from Gucci to Prada to Dolce&Gabbana, have shops at Il Forte, but there is also no shortage of multibrand shops, such as Boutique Fiacchini, that stand out for their choice of international labels.

But the real gems are the historic shops, such as the one belonging to Antonio Artigiano, who has been creating hand-crafted

28 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I J U LY 2018

A holiday in Forte dei Marmi revolves around rituals that seem eternal: on Wednesdays, for instance, there is the legendary market, and you can find everything there. The Market at Forte dei Marmi is a genuine openair boutique where you can buy precious fabrics or ceramics for your seaside home, but also leather goods, hats made of fine straw and cashmere cardigans, all strictly Made in Italy. It goes without saying that you cannot expect to find neighbourhood market prices, but quality, as we know, has to be paid for. And then there are the focaccine, which, together with the bomboloni (cream buns) are the snacks that symbolise summers in Versilia. You can buy them unfilled at the historic Focacceria Valè, or Da Orlando, where they sell the filled versions.

Luckily there are plenty of opportunities to burn a few calories: travelling around Il Forte by bike is de rigueur (they can be hired from Cicli Maggi) but alternatively, above all if you have young children, you can rent a rickshaw and have fun breezing along the promenade. But Forte dei Marmi is also culture: every year, in the months of July and August, inside the large Versiliana maritime pine park, the festival of the same name takes place, which includes concerts, theatre plays and events of various kinds (C.Z.)

Gucci

CULTI HOUSE A small, charming space in the centre of Forte dei Marmi, that expresses the spirit of the company and hosts all the collections of home fragrances, from home diffusers to sprays, scented candles and car sachets. Characterised by the same iconic elements as the Milanese boutiques, such as maple wood furnishings, glass shelving, suffused lighting, the boutique is a real “fragrance house” whose mission is to promote the Living Culture conceived thirty years ago: an original concept that translates into a stylistic and olfactive coherence, stimulating the senses in a heady mix of design, art and perfume. www.culti.com Via Carducci, 43. T: 0584 1848084.

ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ Florentine designer Angela Caputi also has a shop in Forte dei Marmi with her brand Giuggiù. Her imaginative plastic jewellery is inspired by the US movies of the early 20th century and indeed is much loved across the ocean (to the extent that some of her pieces are exhibited in the Metropolitan Museum Art in New York). The boutique in Forte dei Marmi remains consistent with the holiday spirit of the location and is designed with total white interiors. Here, in addition to the jewellery, it is possible to purchase a selection of clothing items and accessories that complete the brand’s collections. www.angelacaputi.com. Via Stagio Stagi, 50 A/B. T: 0584 80705.

PRINCIPE DI FIRENZE The history of Principe di Firenze is inextricably linked with Tuscany, and particularly with Florence, where it was founded in 1930. The point of purchase in Forte dei Marmi also remains faithful to that calm elegance of British inspiration that is the essence of the Principe di Firenze collections that are much loved by a certain type of cultured, sophisticated traveller. The own-brand tailored creations, which are suited to every occasion of the day, alternate with proposals for women, men and children by major Italian brands. Here you can also find accessories, scented candles, silverware and objects for the home. www.principedifirenze.com Via Carducci 1/3. T: 0584 89369.

FEDELI SWIM & WEAR In recent years Fedeli Swim & Wear, a colourful collection of men’s swimming costumes by the historic Fedeli Cashmere clothing firm, has embarked upon a process of retail expansion into the most prestigious Italian holiday locations.

It is almost de rigueur, therefore, to have a shop in the centre of Forte dei Marmi. The space, which is bright and minimalistic, stretches over an area of 75 m2 and is structured around tones of white, to make the vitamin colour shades of the shirts, polo shirts, swimming costumes and eyewear of Fedeli Swim & Wear stand out. fedeliswimwear.com Via Idone, 3/C. T: 0584 784128.

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Giorgio Armani Spa ©Beppe Raso

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New location for Armani Nine elegant shop windows right in front of Palazzo Strozzi and rooms with different colour impressions for Giorgio Armani’s new Florentine boutique. By Chiara Zaccarelli

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new temple of luxury in the city. Not entirely new, if truth be told, because Giorgio Armani’s Florentine boutique, previously located at no. 48/r in Via de’ Tornabuoni, has now moved to no. 83 in the same street, right opposite the prestigious Palazzo Strozzi.

The new space covers an area of 250 square metres on a single floor.

The nine shop windows looking out onto one of the most elegant streets in the historic centre ensure the brand has excellent exposure.

The architectural concept, spacious and bright, has been conceived by Giorgio Armani in association with his team of architects and respects the building’s original structure, developing in a succession of rooms

that are connected thanks to elegant portals with platinum finishes.

All the rooms have been personalised: in each room the various colour tones of floors, silk panels and drapery create a dialogue with each other in a fascinating interplay of chromatic references.

The furnishings and display units are made of resin and platinumcoloured metal, light and curved, while the lamps, wall coverings and carpets are all designed by Armani/Casa.

Here you can find King Giorgio’s entire creative universe, from men’s and women’s clothing to accessories, for which a large area has been reserved.

A corner and a display case, on the other hand,

Florence has retained all its charm and the splendour of the past

30 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I J U LY 2018

are for the make-up and fragrances line of the Armani Beauty selection.

«Florence has retained all its charm and the splendour of the past and is a genuine meeting point for tourists coming from all over the world. I wanted to create a boutique that mirrored the brand’s aesthetic values, with an atmosphere that was both elegant and inviting at the same time», Giorgio Armani explained on the occasion of the opening of the new space.

«The sequence of colours in the various rooms, the meticulous distribution of the products and the new space dedicated to the Giorgio Armani Beauty line give rise to a typically Armani experience: rich, multisensory, sophisticated and natural». >> www.armani.com Via de’ Tornabuoni 83/r.

Map E3

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM

Guidelines CLOTHING &

The

This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers.

MAP LOCATIONSNote that references in bold

at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc.) refer to the coordinates on the street map (pages 78-79).

SHOPPING Shopping hours are generally from 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Florence) and on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge.

Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.

»

TAXFREE SHOPPING

By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund.

UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 e-mail: europe@unionpayintl.com

ACCESSORIES Angela Caputi Giuggiù The boutique offers an extraordinary selection of clothing items for every type of woman. In addition, hats, bags and other accessories from all over the world enrich these collections. Stylist and designer Angela Caputi chooses these articles personally to combine with and complete her exclusive resin jewellery with its unique, elegant design. www.angelacaputi.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Borgo SS. Apostoli, 44-46/r. T: 055 292993. Map E4

Anichini

CHILDREN A traditional tailor’s shop for children where skilled artisan hands create elegant items for newborns, children and youngsters using the best Italian fabrics. For each model it is possible to vary the choice of fabrics, colours and details. A centuryold workshop of hand-crafting culture, located in 15th-century Palazzo Ricasoli. www.anichini.net. Open Mon 3.30pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm7.30pm. Via del Parione, 59/r. T: 055 284977. Map D3

Aspesi The cult brand, created in 1969 by fashion veteran Alberto Aspesi, features quirky, tailored lines, elegant

details and natural materials. His current collections are still based on the original “no frills” philosophy and will appeal to all those who like their outerwear without flashy labels. www.aspesi.com. Women.

Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 85/r. T: 055 287987.

Men. Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, 51/r. T: 055 Map E4 287931.

Brunello Cucinelli The world of Brunello Cucinelli can be summed up as a compendium of art, traditions and Italian craftsmanship. The brand, which came about in Umbria forty years ago from an idea by founder Brunello Cucinelli, represents excellence in the production of high-quality cashmere knitwear and today boasts top-level production with total look men’s and women’s collections. Today it is seen as a model enterprise all over the world for its support for the dignity of work and craftsmanship, defining itself as “a humanistic company”. www.brunellocucinelli. com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via dei Pecori, 16/r. T: Map F3 055 285832.

Elena Mirò An Italian prêt-à-porter brand dedicated to curvy women, for over 30 years Elena Mirò has been synonymous with perfect-fit clothing items that enhance every woman’s look with a contemporary,

UnionPay is an international bankcard association based in China and serves the world’s largest cardholder base. With more than 7 billion cards issued worldwide, UnionPay has become the mayor payment method of the outbound Chinese. By March 2018, almost 600,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 9,000 merchants are located in Florence. This allows hundred of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as the Rinascente department stores, The Mall, SINA hotels, Aspesi fashion boutiques, to provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders.

DINING

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered.

Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30 € or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above.

SIGHTSEEING

The information provided on museums and monuments is verified as meticulously as possible. However, data such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices and the accessibility of sites are all subject to change, on a seasonal basis and also due to restoration work, museum loans or changes of management. Ask your concierge.

A unique shopping experience Luisa Via Roma was founded in the early 1930s by Luisa Jaquin, and her imagination and later that of her grandson, Andrea Panconesi, have turned this high street boutique into a landmark for lovers of fashion and luxury the world over. It earned its fortune to begin with by scouting emerging stylists who would go on to dominate the pantheon of global fashion (they were the first to bring an unknown Kenzo to Italy in the late 1960s). The next happy move was to open an online boutique in 1999, when few people were willing to take the risk of buying on the web. Today Luisa Via Roma is a global powerhouse of e-commerce with 5 million visitors a month, and its Florence store also offers a digitalised purchasing experience: instead of displaying the garments, they have been replaced with interactive installations. Luckily, some things never change, like the pleasure of a relaxing break, before or after your shopping spree, on the elegant terrace designed by Patricia Urquiola.

Via Roma, 19-21/r. T: 055 9064116 - www.luisaviaroma.com

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[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]

Luxury Top Brands ALBERTA FERRETTI PHILOSOPHY— www.albertaferretti.com. Open daily 10am7pm. Via Porta Rossa, 107.

T: 055 212995.

Map E4 ASPESI—www.aspesi.com. Women. Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 85.

T: 055 287987. Men Open Mon-Fri 10am2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 51/r.

T: 055 287931.

Map E4 BALENCIAGA—www.balenciaga.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm.

Piazza Santa Trinita, 1/r.

T: 055 287931.

Map E4 BOGGI MILANO—www.boggi.com.

Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm.

Via della Vigna Nuova, 27.

T: 055 219179.

Map E3

CHANEL—www.chanel.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Piazza della Signoria, 10.

T: 055 2989699. Map F4. Fragrance & Beauty Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via dei Calzaiuoli, 49.

T: 055 298181.

Map F3 CHOPARD— www.chopard.com. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7pm; Sun 11.30am-7pm.

Via de’ Tornabuoni, 30-32/r.

Map E4 T: 055 2670157.

DAMIANI— www.damiani.com. Open MonSat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Map E3 Tornabuoni, 7/r. T: 055 290208.

DIOR— www.dior.com. Women. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 15/r.

Map E3 T: 055 2669101.

This elegant backpack by SALVATORE FERRAGAMO is made of calfskin with a spacious outside pocket and zip closure.

BORSALINO—www.borsalino.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Porta Rossa, 40/r. T: 055 218275.

Map F4

DOLCE&GABBANA— www.dolcegabbana.it Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via degli Strozzi, 12-18/r. T: 055 281003. Map E4. Baby. Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 18/r. T: 055 2399909.

Map E4

BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm.

Via degli Strozzi, 6n. T: 055 284735.

Map E3

EMILIO PUCCI—www.emiliopucci.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm.

Via de’ Tornabuoni, 20-22/r.

Map E4 T: 055 2658082.

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI— www.brunellocucinelli.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via dei Pecori, 16.

T: 055 285832.

Map F3

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA—www.zegna.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 3/r.

Map E3 T: 055 264254.

BULGARI—www.bulgari.com. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Via de’Tornabuoni, 56/r.

T: 055 2396786.

Map E4

ETRO—www.etro.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Palazzo Rucellai-via della Vigna Nuova, 50/r.

Map D3 T: 055 2670086.

LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm.

Via de’ Tornabuoni, 34-36/r.

T: 055 2398688.

Map E4

FENDI—www.fendi.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 40/r.

Map E3 T: 055 212305.

LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; Sun 11am-7.30pm.

Piazza degli Strozzi, 10/r. T: 055 266981.

Map E3

BURBERRY—it.burberry.com. Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via de’Tornabuoni, 29/r.

T: 055 293811.

Map E4 CARTIER— www.cartier.it. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm.

Via degli Strozzi, 36/r.

T: 055 292347.

Map E4

FURLA—www.furla.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30. Via de’ Calzaiuoli, 10/r (corner of piazza della Signoria).

Map F4 T: 055 2382883.

GIORGIO ARMANI— ARMANI www.armani.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10am2pm/3pm-7pm. NEW OPENING Via de’ Tornabuoni, 83/r.

T: 055 219041.

Map E3

Light and comfortable, lamé flat ‘Espadrillas’

by MISSONI add a touch of cheerfulness and style to your seasonal outfit.

32 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I J U LY 2018

GUCCI GUCCI—www.gucci.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 7381/r. T: 055 264011. Map E3 • Duomo. Open daily 10-19. Via Roma, 32/r. T: 055 75923803.

Map F3 • Garden. Open daily 10-19.30.

Piazza della Signoria, 10.

T: 055 75927010.

Map F4 HERMÈS—www.hermes.com. Open Mon-Sat 10.15am-7pm. Piazza degli Antinori, 6/r.

T: 055 2381004.

Map E3 HOGAN—www.hogan.com. Open MonSat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 97/r. T: 055 2741013.

Map E3 HUGO BOSS—www.hugoboss.com. Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Por Santa Maria, 70.

T: 055 294909.

Map F4

MAX MARA—it.maxmara.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm.

Via de’ Tornabuoni, 66-68-70/r.

T: 055 214133. Map E3 • Open Mon-Sat 10am7.30; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Pecori, 23/r.

T: 055 287761.

Map F3 MICHAEL KORS— www.michaelkors.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; Sun 10.30am7.30pm. Piazza della Repubblica, 43.

T: 055 290284.

Map F3 MISSONI—www.missoni.it. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, 77-79/r.

T: 055 215774.

Map F4

These pumps featuring an original graffiti print logo belong to the new ‘Graffiti’’ capsule collection by MICHAEL MICHAEL KORS

MIU MIU —www.miumiu.com. Open Mon-Sat MIU—www.miumiu.com.

10.30am-7.30; Sun 10am-7pm. Via Roma, 8/r.

T: 055 2608931.

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Sizing

MONCLER MONCLER—www.moncler.com.

Open MonSat 10am-7; Sun 11am-7pm. Via degli Strozzi, 3/r.

T: 055 2657583.

Map E3 MONTBLANC—www.montblanc.com. Open MONTBLANC Mon-Sat 10am-7. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 63/r.

T: 055 292050.

Map E3 PRADA—www.

PRADA prada.com. Open daily 10am7pm. Via Roma, 27/r. T: 055 287066. • Open daily 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 53-67/r.

T: 055 267471.

Map E3 SAINT LAURENT LAURENT—www.ysl.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 43-45.

T: 055 9040100.

Map E3 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO FERRAGAMO— www.ferragamo.com. Open daily 10am-7pm.

Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4-14/r.

T: 055 292123.

Map E4 STEFANO RICCI—www.stefanoricci.com.

RICCI Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Palazzo Tornabuoni - Via dei Pescioni, 1.

T: 055 210856.

Map F3 SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com.

SWAROVSKI Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10am-7.30pm.

Via dei Calzaiuoli, 43/r. T: 055 216227.

Map F3 TOD’S TOD’S—www.tods.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10am7.30pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 60/r. T: 055 219423.

Map E3 VALENTINO—www.valentino.com.

VALENTINO Women.

Open daily 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 23/r.

T: 055 293142.

Map E4

Cotton jersey ‘Sweater Suit’, linen shirt and ‘70’s Walk’ suede shoes together make the perfect LORO PIANA outfit for men for this summer season.

IT 36 38 40 42 44 46 48

Women,s clothes EUR US 32 1 34 2 36 4 38 6 40 8 42 10 44 12

UK 4 6 8 10 12 14 16

IT 36 37 38 39 40 41

Women,s shoes EUR US 36 6 37 6.5 38 7.5 39 8.5 40 9 41 9.5

UK 3 4 5 6 7 8

IT 50 52 54 56 58 60

Men,s clothes EUR US 46 36 48 38 50 40 52 42 54 44 56 46

UK 36 38 40 42 44 46

IT 40 41 42 43 44 45 46

Men,s shoes EUR US 40 7.5 41 8 42 8.5 43 9 44 10.5 45 11.5 46 12

UK 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

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SHOPPING refined and ever new style. From dresses to outerwear, from trousers to accessories, to beachwear, the brand expresses the pleasure of dressing a woman’s shape with style. www. elenamiro.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via dei Tosinghi, 8/r. T: 055 2657725.

Map F3

Giovanni Raspini

Stylish creations

Angela Caputi Giuggiù’s innovative, elegant jewels are the perfect addition to the wish list of every woman. Featuring a blend of art and fashion, her creations are characterised by a continuously evolving creative process.

Also known by the nickname Giuggiù, the Florentine designer has become a byword across the globe.

Her stunning creations have been showcased at several of the most important museums worldwide.

The creative heart of Angela Caputi’s bijoux is her workshop in Oltrarno, located in the picturesque Florentine district. Each and every one of her sought-after designs is handcrafted in Italy.

This summer, the Italian jewelry designer suggests the elegant ‘Lapis’ line where lapis lazuli blue takes centre stage. The resin elements featured in this collection come in an intense blue, with small off-white veining and gold flecks, a reference to the calcites and pyrites that are generally found in these gemstones. To soften the severity of blue lapis and its geometric shapes, the designer has introduced several romantic elements, including small roses and lucky elephant charms in pink coral; a touch of elegance and sophistication to illuminate and enhance the collection. www.angelacaputi.com Via S. Spirito, 58/r. T: 055 212972 and Borgo SS. Apostoli, 44/46.

T: 055 292993.

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In the beating heart of the fashion district, the boutique of the Tuscan jewellery brand based in Valdichiana (between Siena, Arezzo and Florence) is a genuine concept store that boasts a personalized layout design where a 15th-century tapestry stands out. Fine jewellery - with a unique personality, often animal-themed, sometimes oversized or limited edition - silverware, objects for the home, handcrafted white bronze creations, always having a style that is midway between minimalism and classicism as the common denominator. From the design to the wax model to “lost-wax” casting, to diamondsetting, each piece is entirely hand worked. Open daily 10am-9pm. www.giovanniraspini.com. Via Porta Map E4 Rossa, 82/r. T: 055 2741501.

Luisa Via Roma

MULTIBRAND STORE Founded in the early 1930s by Luisa Jaquin, today Luisa Via Roma is a landmark for lovers of fashion and luxury the world over. A global powerhouse of e-commerce with 5 million visitors a month, its Florence store also offers a digitalized purchasing experience: instead of displaying the garments, they have been replaced with interactive installations. Don’t miss the elegant terrace designed by Patricia Urquiola. Open MonSat 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. www. luisaviaroma.com. Via Roma, 19-21/r. T: 055 9064116.

Map F3

Marina Rinaldi Renowned for its tasteful, plus-size apparel for fashionable women, Marina Rinaldi offers a wide range of collections, featuring both contemporary and classic lines that are updated on a seasonal basis. These include dresses, jackets, coats, bags and accessories for a total look that exudes class and elegance. it.marinarinaldi.com. Open Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun 10.30am-8.30pm c/o RinascenteMap F3 Piazza della Repubblica. T: 055 219113.

Société Anonyme An independent shop of North-European conception inspired by the underground atmospheres of the hot-lazy neighbourhoods of London, Berlin and New York (the name is a homage to Marcel Duchamp and Peggy Guggenheim, who founded an avant-garde art gallery in New York called Société Anonyme in the 1920s). Located in the literary artistic district of Sant’Ambrogio, it offers labels of international renown and niche brands, as well as its own men’s and women’s collection that is only sold in-store and online. www.societeanonyme.it. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via G.B. Niccolini, 3/f corner of via della Mattonaia, 24/a/b/c/d.

Map L3 (Sant’Ambrogio District).T: 055 3860084.

Stefano Ricci Tailoring and Italian tradition “Made in Florence”, with the purest male elegance as the watchword.

These, in short, are the values of the company founded in 1972 by Stefano Ricci and his wife Claudia, which, now in its second generation, has become a successful international group. From clothing (jackets, suits and high-fashion sports items, but also shirts and ties) to jewellery, from leatherwear to perfumes and the SR Home and SR Junior collections, Stefano Ricci represents Italian excellence all over the world,

The new ‘Culti Illustrators’ collection by CULTI MILANO add a touch of art to all spaces. The ‘Sunbath’ layout of the ‘Mareminerale’ fragrance is by Luca Font. making production entirely hand-made by qualified Italian craftsmen its strong point. Faithful to the values of the manufacturing tradition and the roots of the territory, in 2010 the firm acquired the Antico Setificio Fiorentino, a historic silk factory in the San Frediano district that has produced precious fabrics since 1786 and today still uses the original ancient hand looms. www.stefanoricci.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Palazzo Tornabuoni-Via dei Pescioni, 1.

Map E3 T: 055 210856.

DEPARTMENT STORES Rinascente In the heart of the city, Rinascente is the ideal place to discover the best of fashion, accessories, beauty, home and design items. For women, proposals of the best Italian and international brands range from the classic to the contemporary and for men from formal to smart casual. Rinascente is a point of reference for luxury shopping and for new brands, exclusive products and the unveiling of innovations.

There is a Food Market on the fourth floor with gourmet products made in Italy and a selection of excellent international products, while the Terrace with café-bar (T: 055 283612) offers a spectacular 360° panoramic view of the city’s main landmarks www. rinascente.it. Open Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun 10.30am8.30pm. Piazza della Repubblica. T: 055 219113.

Map F3

FINE ART Abacus

BINDERY A workshop producing precious bindings. The raw materials, such as “Acid Free” paper, 100% cotton or leather with vegetable tanning or hand-dyed using ancient methods and natural waxes, are all selected with care. All the phases are supervised in the workshop: from the folding of the sheets by hand to the delicate phase of hand stitching, to the application of the cover using various styles. www.abacusfirenze.com. Open Mon 2.30pm7.30pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-7.30pm. Via dei Macci, 50 (Santa Croce district). T: 345 3280318. Map L4

Antico Setificio Fiorentino The Antico Setificio Fiorentino is the heir to a great tradition of Renaissance textile art and history, thanks also to its famous warping machine based on a design by Leonardo da Vinci. Since 1786 the workshop has been producing some of the most sumptuous silk brocades, damask, taffeta, and

Il Bisonte fine leather, timeless appeal

Enter the Il Bisonte boutique in Palazzo Corsini on the Lungarno to discover a world dedicated to style and craftsmanship. Since 1970, the Florentine brand of leather goods and accessories founded by Wanny Di Filippo has been distinguished by the originality of its creations, handcrafted by skilled artisans using high-quality materials

Il Bisonte Via del Parione, 31-33/r. T: 055 215722 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11.30am-6.30pm www.ilbisonte.com

such as cowhide, leather and all-natural vegetable-tanned leather. In addition to bearing the Made in Italy merchandise mark, Il Bisonte’s bags, document holders, suitcases, travel accessories and small leather goods share the same attention to detail, as regards both their design and the various stages involved in the production process. From leather cutting to splitting and hand-sewn details, each stage of the process is carried out following methods handed down from generation to generation like a precious artwork to be safeguarded. The use of natural materials guarantees the uniqueness of each product, a characteristic that has always been dear to Il Bisonte.

Using a traditional Tuscan process of vegetable tanning, an Il Bisonte bag only improves with time, embracing the unique qualities impressed on it with each wear.

Wanny Di Filippo is the founding legend of the epopee of Il Bisonte and its ambassador. A determined dreamer, eclectic and out-of-the-box thinker, he is the embodiment of living by your own rules and building your own history with freedom and creativity. He founded his brand when a company turned down his drawings, considered too innovative: “If I can draw them” – he said to himself – “I can also produce them”.

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UNIQUE IN FLORENCE OTTICA MANTOVANI OFFICINA PROFUMO FARMACEUTICA SMN The oldest pharmacy in Europe (1221), it is housed in a part of a Dominican convent complex. Its products (perfumes, beauty products, medicinal herbs, herbal teas, sweets and chocolates) are sold all over the world and represent a production par excellence on account of their quality raw materials and centuries-old handicraft techniques. www.smnovella.com Via della Scala, 16. T: 055 216276.

LEONE CEI & SONS Since 1902, an exceptional firm specialising in dressing tables, appliqués, consuls, chairs and armchairs faithfully reproduced from antique models from a rare and abundant archive.

The production, entirely made in Florence, is destined for private homes, hotels and private clubs all over the world. Qualified consultancy service provided on antiques and on the reproduction of period items. www.leonecei.com Via dei Fossi, 47/r. T: 055 2396039.

GALLERIA ROMANELLI It has been handing down precious sculpture artwork for six generations in Borgo San Frediano. An artistic workshop, a meeting place for buyers and artists, where sculptors and their students carry out their work daily surrounded by the ancient tools of the trade.

Work is done by commission on original sculptures, chalk replicas, bronze and Carrara marble and restorations. www.raffaelloromanelli.com Borgo San Frediano, 70. T: 055 2396047.

LA MÉNAGÈRE A delightful concept store that includes a shop with design objects for the home, a florist’s, in addition to a restaurant and a bistro. Located right in the city centre, in the space that was once occupied by the first Florentine household item shop, it combines industrial and recycled materials and design objects for a contemporary result with a romantic touch. www.lamenagere.it Via de’ Ginori, 8/r. T: 055 0750600.

36 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I J U LY 2018

SHOPPING Nasi-Quaratesi, the “Museum Shop” of master goldsmith Alessandro Dari has an area used to exhibit his precious works and another used as an artistic workshop where jewellery and decorative objects are developed, including one-off items and themed collections. Some of his works are displayed at the nearby Treasury of the Grand Dukes in Palazzo Pitti. www.alessandrodari.com. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via San Niccolò, 115/r. T: 055 244747. Map G6

BIANCHI E NARDI mini bag, from the new capsule collection created in collaboration with young designer Giannico: an eye-catching combination of Made in Florence craftsmanship and innovative style.

lampas in the world, 100% made in Italy. www. anticosetificiofiorentino.com. Open Mon-Fri 10am-6pm (by appointment only). Via L. Bartolini, 4.

Map B3 T: 055 213861.

to a line of classic leather accessories. www. ilpapirofirenze.eu. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/2pm7pm; Sun 10am-6pm. Via C. Cavour, 49/r. T: 055 Map G1 6499151.

Galleria Romanelli

Pitti Mosaici

The Galleria Romanelli has been handing down precious sculpture artwork for six generations in one of the most picturesque neighbourhoods of Florence, Borgo San Frediano. An artistic workshop, a meeting place for buyers and artists, where sculptors and their students carry out their work daily surrounded by the ancient tools of the trade. Work is done by commission on original sculptures, chalk replicas, bronze and Carrara marble and restorations. www.raffaelloromanelli.com. Open Mon-Fri 10am-1pm/2pm-6pm. Borgo San Frediano, 70. T: 055 2396047. Map C4

Leone Cei & Sons Since 1902, an exceptional firm specializing in dressing tables, appliqués, consuls, chairs and armchairs faithfully reproduced from antique models from a rare and abundant archive. The production, entirely made in Florence, is destined for private homes, hotels and private clubs all over the world.

The carving, gilding, burnishing and lacquering work is performed rigorously by hand following traditional procedures and using natural products and pigmentations. A huge department is dedicated to fabrics for furnishings, with a collection of fabrics still produced on ancient looms or limited editions, or produced on request and based on customers’ designs. Qualified consultancy service provided on antiques and on the reproduction of period items. www.leonecei.com. Headquarters & Showroom: Via dei Federighi, 15. T: 055 2381870. Map D3 • Antiques: Via dei Fossi, 47/r. T: 055 2396039.

Map D3

Papiro (Il) Established in 1976 in Florence, Il Papiro produces objects drawing their inspiration from the Florentine tradition of marbled paper (diaries, address books, photo albums, articles for the desk) in addition

Since the early 1980s this studio right opposite Palazzo Pitti keeps alive the ancient Florentine tradition of marquetry with marble, hard and semi-precious stones. Unique hand-made items to provide coverings for walls, framed items and furnishings recalling the atmospheres and style of the Renaissance. Today the art studio creates entire made-to-measure residential projects all over the world. www.pittimosaici.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-8pm. Piazza de’ Pitti, 23/24. T: Map E6 055 282127.

Richard Ginori 1735 Tradition and excellence in the high-quality artistic manufacture of porcelain. The Richard Ginori “artistic factory”, of 18th-century origin, still produces accessories for the table and living room and works of art in its Doccia Factory (20 km from Florence) using ancient working techniques. Italian style and international trends. www.richardginori1735.com.

Open Mon-Wed 10am-7pm; Thurs-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 12 noon-6.30pm. Via ei Rondinelli, 17/r. T: 055 210041. Map E2

Torchio (Il) Inspired by the ancient Florentine hand crafting tradition, Il Torchio creates bookbinding products with refined materials such as Florentine leather, hand-marbled paper and coloured cloths, also devising new artisan articles with contemporary materials and techniques. www.legatoriailtorchio. com.Open Mon-Fri 10am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm; Sat 10am-1pm. Via de’ Bardi, 17. T: 055 2342862. Map G6

JEWELLERY & WATCHES Alessandro Dari

Angela Caputi Giuggiù

COSTUME JEWELLERY The brand is renowned throughout the world. Sophisticated, original creations made from unusual materials such as plastic and resin, combined to create unique objects both in terms of colour and shape. Her creations have been used as accessories by famous television and film producers. The accessory as a focal point, capable of creating a look or dressing up any type of garment.

A magical blend of contemporary and classical taste. www.angelacaputi.com. Shop and workshop: Open Tues-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via S. Spirito, 58/r. T: 055 212972. Map D4 • Boutique: Open MonSat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Borgo SS. Apostoli, 44-46/r. T: 055 292993. Map F4

Annamaria Cammilli A Florentine brand of reference in design jewellery, it has been present with its creations in shop windows and display cases all over the world for over 30 years and is synonymous with a unique, unmistakable Italian style. Attention to detail for rings, necklaces, bracelets and brooches, often drawing inspiration from nature and the floral world. www. annamariacammilli.com. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; TuesSat 11am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via Vacchereccia, 12/r.

Map F4 T: 055 2608617.

Aprosio Aprosio came about as a workshop in 1993 and creates jewellery accessories and products for decorating interiors, with glass beads from Murano and Bohemia crystal glass. www.aprosio.it. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7pm. Via del Moro 75-77/r, 12/r.

Map E2 T: 055 210127.

Cassetti 1926 In the spectacular context of Ponte Vecchio, the Cassetti multibrand boutique is known for both fine watchmaking and haute joaillerie, and has a studio that develops innovative projects with its own artisan collection. www.cassetti.it. Open daily 10am-7pm.

Map F5 Ponte Vecchio, 54/r. T: 055 287361.

UNIQUE Housed in the 15th-century Palazzo

ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ In the centre of Florence, in an old 17th-century building known as “Palazzetto Medici”, a few steps from the Ponte Vecchio, are the boutique and the creative heart of Florentine designer Angela Caputi’s brand Giuggiù.

Her imaginative plastic jewellery items, much loved by international customers, are genuinely unique pieces of fine craftsmanship. In the Borgo SS. Apostoli boutique it is also possible to purchase a selection of clothing items and accessories that complete the brand’s collections. www.angelacaputi.com Borgo SS. Apostoli, 44/46. T: 055 292993. Map F4 Via S. Spirito, 58/r. T: 055 212972. Map D4

w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 37

SHOPPING

ASPESI See page 31.

Damiani Master craftsmen since 1924, Damiani has a long goldsmithing tradition which it has always interpreted with innovative spirit. Line purity, a refined, elegant classic as well as contemporary spirit, are the distinctive values of Damiani jewellery.

Their collections are realized by master goldsmiths in full accordance with the best Italian tradition and admired throughout the world. www.damiani.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Map E4 Tornabuoni, 7/r. T: 055 290208.

Dodo The gold Dodo jewellery line, created in 1995 by Pomellato, is by now a classic either for gift or collection purposes. It sells an array of animal charm

AQUAZZURA See page 44.

pieces, each of which has a particular meaning. www.dodo.it. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11.30am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 39-41/r.

Map E4 T: 055 2741573.

Fani Gioielli Starting out as a family-run shop over 50 years ago, Fani Gioielli is now an established fine jewellery and luxury watchmaking firm, with two points of sale, in Florence and Siena. An extensive range of prestigious jewellery brands, including Pomellato, Dodo and Vhernier; it is also an official Rolex and Tudor retailer. www.fanishops.it. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via de’Tornabuoni, 72/r. T: 055 212075.

Map E3

DR. VRANJES See page 42.

Massai Orafi Founded in 1950 by Florentine master goldsmith Franco Massai, it boasts over 60 years in the field of Florentine fine goldsmithery. With the techniques of the past it produces unique, rigorously hand-made pieces and is a point of reference for Florentines and others besides. EDITOR’S TIP A visit to the workshop is a unique experience: on the top floor of a 16th-century tower house, for over 200 years master goldsmiths have practised the ancient fretworking, carving and engraving traditions typical of the Florentine goldsmithery art. www.massaiorafi. it. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm/3pm-7.30pm. Via delle Terme, 13. T: 055 294800. Map F4

Officine Panerai Situated in the centre of Florence, birthplace of the fine watchmaking trade, this historic boutique boasts a unique design and a strong identity that Spanish designer Patricia Urquiola has enhanced by working with the idea of the “art workshop”. A space on the first floor is devoted to special sales and another is reserved for periodic exhibitions of watches from the historical Museum; on the ground floor, a watchmaker is at customers’ disposal to carry out repairs and share his passion with Panerai enthusiasts. www.panerai.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Piazza San Giovanni, 14/r. T: 055 9040013.

Map F2

Rolex Boutique-Cassetti 1926 In the unique and exclusive setting that is Ponte Vecchio, the Rolex boutique has three storeys: the ground floor is dedicated to sales, with three display tables; the first floor has two rooms for reserved sales; the second floor has a fully equipped customer care centre, where qualified Rolex technicians are available to look after the precious timepieces. www.cassetti. it. Open daily 10am-7pm. Ponte Vecchio, 29/r. T: 055 Map F5 2741044.

Tiffany & Co.

OFFICINE PANERAI This artisan’s workshop is a meeting point for brand collectors and enthusiasts. The Officine Panerai watches are a natural blend of Italian design, Swiss technology and passion for the sea. www.panerai.com

38 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I J U LY 2018

Located in the luxury shopping street par excellence, the Tiffany & Co. boutique is housed in one of the most beautiful Palazzi in the city. There is plenty of space inside for gold and silver fashion collections, such as ’Tiffany City HardWear’ and ’Tiffany T’, jewels with purest diamonds, the iconic engagement rings, design creations by Elsa Peretti and Paloma Picasso and rigorously Swiss-made men’s and women’s watches. www.tiffany.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-

Guglielmo de' Micheli

SHOPPING 7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni 37/r. T: Map C4 055 215506.

Ugo Poggi It came about in Florence in the early 20th century as a producer of silverware, porcelain, glassware and furnishings. After a century, now in its third generation, today the brand proposes a sophisticated production of luxury Florentine hand-crafted items for the home: from precious crystal chandeliers to bone china crockery, to a precious selection of antique silverware. No longer just internally produced furnishing accessories, but also historic Italian and top quality international brands. www.ugopoggifirenze. com. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sun 10am-7pm.

Map E3 Via degli Strozzi, 26/r. T: 055 216741.

Vacheron Constantin Boutique In the unique and exclusive setting that is Ponte Vecchio, this boutique is the oldest fine watchmaking design house in the world, founded in 1755 in Geneva. The façade of the boutique is also known for the tabernacle with a painting of the Madonna with Child and Saint John that marked the presence of an ancient oratory of the Holy Sepulchre, which came under the control of the Knights of Malta in the early 14th century. www.cassetti.it. Open daily 10am-7pm.

Map F5 Ponte Vecchio, 52/r. T: 055 2396028.

LEATHER Cuoieria Fiorentina From the famous ancient hand-crafting tradition of the Florentine “pellai” [leather craftsmen], typical of this area of Tuscany, here unique, inimitable products are created with extreme care and top-quality natural materials. A vast range of leather handbags, travel bags and accessories (belts, wallets, briefcases…), for him and for her, offering excellent value for money. Another strong point is the personalization of the products, organised to satisfy the tastes and requirements of customers, who can count Michelle Obama among their number. www.cuoieriafiorentina. it. Open Mon-Sat 9am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via de’ Off Map Nicola, 11. T: 055 6505091.

Gianni Chiarini Established in the 1990s, this brand is the expression of ancient artisan wisdom in the creation of contemporary bags and accessories, with an idea of pure design. A fresh, modern and cosmopolitan brand, but at the same time sophisticated, which has its roots in the heart of Florentine beauty. giannichiarini.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via della Vigna Nuova, 52/r. T: 055 2654306. Map D3

Il Bisonte Florentine leather goods brand Il Bisonte came about in 1970 thanks to Wanny Di Filippo’s passion for leather objects. Housed in the boutique in Palazzo Corsini on the Lungarno are its beautifully hand-crafted bags, travel bags, briefcases, wallets, diaries, belts and other accessories epitomising the best of Tuscan workmanship. The brand’s key focus is on materials, including its iconic cowhide: a natural, highly sought-after vegetable tanned leather which has the advantage of improving with age. www.ilbisonte.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm: Sun 11.30am-6.30pm. Via del Parione, 31-33/r. T: 055 Map E4 215722.

PASSION SHOPPING AquaFlor A perfume shop with the charm of past times, dedicated to the hand-crafted manufacture of perfumes made using natural and rare raw materials, personalisable through the choice of fragrances. A studio run impeccably by maître parfumier Sileno Cheloni. www.aquaflor.it. - www.aquaflorfirenze.com Open daily 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm. Borgo Santa Croce, 6. T: 055 2343471. Map H5

Dr. Vranjes Home fragrances and elegant furnishing accessories made by hand in Florence for more than 30 years.

Florence is home to the laboratories and the headquarters of the Florentine home fragrance company founded and managed by the “nose”, the perfumer, namely chemist and cosmetologist Dr. Paolo Vranjes and his wife Anna Maria. In addition to the traditional production of ambient diffusers and “lamparfum” items, the brand has diversified its production with linen, cosmetics, perfumes and gift boxes, also giving a strong Florentine identity to the packaging, inspired by Brunelleschi’s Dome. drvranjes.it. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Via San Gallo, 63/r. T: 055 494537 Off Map • Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via della Spada, 9/r. T: 055 288796.

Map E3• Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 10am1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Sat 10am-7.30pm. Borgo La Map l3 Croce, 44/r. T: 055 241748.

La Ménagère

The entire Ferragamo universe Florentine brand that has known how to combine age-old hand crafting skills with the creativity ADVERTORIAL typical of products made in Italy, today Salvatore Ferragamo represents quality, contemporary

elegance, innovation and tradition. The Florentine boutique, which contains all the fashion house’s men’s, women’s, accessories and perfume collections, is located inside the medieval Palazzo Spini Feroni, the company’s historic workshop since 1938, today its headquarters and the site of the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum. The boutique occupies the entire ground floor of the building, inside large spaces decorated with 18th-century frescoes, stretching from Piazza Santa Trinita to the banks of the River Arno. And it is precisely the wing of the store that faces onto Piazza Santa Trinita that hosts the Ferragamo’s Creations corner, with the exclusive footwear line that revisits some of the brand’s iconic models and also includes a collection of bags and accessories with the most representative prints and decorations.

Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4/r. T: 055 292123 - www.ferragamo.com

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CONCEPT STORE A delightful concept store of around 1500 square metres that includes a shop with design objects for the home, a florist, in addition to a restaurant and a bistro. Located right in the city centre, in the space that was once occupied by the first Florentine household item shop, it combines industrial and recycled materials and design objects for a contemporary result with a romantic touch. www. lamenagere.it. Open daily 7am-2am. Via de’ Ginori 8/r. T: 055 0750600. Map F1

Marioluca Giusti A Florentine Maison producing practical, elegant design objects for the table and more besides, in a style between fusion and pop. Its synthetic crystal glass and melamine collections are enhanced every year with new models with colour shades ranging from white to black to transparent, to brighter colours such as fluo. Its products are particularly appreciated by important international personalities such as the Princes of Monaco, King Mohammed VI of Morocco, Steven Spielberg, Valentino and the Missoni family.

Its boutiques are characterized by total white walls with niches where the accessories are exhibited, as in a museum. It has several sites in Florence: Por Santa Maria, 16/r (open daily 11am-7pm); Via della Spada,

[RINASCENTE]

The best shopping

In the heart of Florence, just a few steps away from the historic treasures of the city, you will find Rinascente: the ideal place to find the best in fashion, accessories, beauty, home and design.

And don’t miss the top floor with the Terrazza bar & restaurant.

THIS PAGE IS KINDLY SPONSORED BY RINASCENTE

Shoppers will find items of the best Italian and international brands. A large area is devoted to women’s fashion which includes a vast and prestigious range in both classic fashions as well as the latest trends.

Special attention is also given to men’s wear where shoppers can choose from formal attire to smart casual wear.

The constant arrival of new brands, unique commodities and the latest products exclusive to Rinascente make the store the focal point for your high-end shopping in the city.

The Food Market on the fourth floor is a space dedicated to the best Made in Italy gourmet food and a selection of the most sought-after international produce.

The choicest pasta, delicious sauces, tasty appetizers, luxurious chocolates and many

more mouth-watering sweet and savoury culinary delights, all distinct for choice ingredients and exquisite packaging.

All products at the Food Market can be packaged in one of our elegant Gift boxes.

Should you need some advice, you can make an appointment with one of our personal shoppers that are at your disposal every day to help you put together a fantastic food hamper.

>> Rinascente www.rinascente.it Open Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun 10.30am-8.30pm.

Piazza della Repubblica. Map F3 T: 055 219113

On the top floor you can enjoy a spectacular view of the Duomo while having a drink at la Terrazza bar & restaurant: at lunch you can enjoy a menu that includes pasta dishes of the day, the renowned pappa al pomodoro (tomato bread soup), Caprese salad, Niçoise with tuna, boiled egg and Greek olives Greek with cucumber, feta cheese and black olives, raw meat and fish, sandwiches with fresh ingredients and seasonal produce. w w w.wh e re t rave le r.com 43

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44 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I J U LY 2018

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Artisan savoir faire since 1774 in the universe of paper, PIAZZAand leather goods. Tradition and design writing Giardino Della Gherardesca SAN MARCO are the distinctive features of this brand, which is unique worldwide: from the printing of precious and Chiesa La SS. Annunziata embossed paper to articles made of fine leather, di Firenze to elegant writing instruments. www.pineider.com.

PIAZZA Galleria dell’Accademia VI DELLA Piazza Rucellai, 4-7/r.

V I Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm.

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P. DELL'UNITÀ ITALIANA VIA DEL MELARANC IO

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Created in Florence in 2011 and inspired by the V luxury hand-crafting tradition, the brand I A combines a G U S typically European refined aesthetic sensibility with TA V O modern Latin American elegance.

Aquazzura shoes M VI O A Giardino D VE Palazzoworn Pandolfini have been by trendsetters, Hollywood stars,E N A NE ZI A European royalty and fashion insiders around the VI Chiesa di A globe. www.aquazzura.com.

Open daily 10am-7pm.

PI S. Giovanni ER dei Cavalieri AN Palazzo Corsini-Lungarno Corsini, 42. T: 055 Giardino 291242.

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A NEW The new boutique is structured into a vast V I range of Eaux de ParfumV and Eaux de Toilette, IA completed by products forP Opersonal care, for the GG VI VI A I A G. DO environment and accessories.

The essences are G L Nostra Signora Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa U FI deldesigns Sacro Cuoreinspired by the contained in packaging with Maria Novella ZZI RO S Tglassmaking tradition of Murano.

Furthermore, the O V. UNIQUE The oldest historical pharmacy in IP P VIA C. F IL LE BA R Istore provides a personalized single-brand layering RT V IA DO OL PIAZZALE Europe (established in 1221), the Officina ProfumoLF OM VI I MEOpen MonBAMBINE E BAMBINI A service. www.themerchantofvenice.com.

I PIAZZA DE Farmaceutica is housed in a part of the Dominican LL DI BESLAN INDIPENDENZA A Thurs 10.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm; Wed-Sat FO RT convent complex of Santa Maria Novella and has EZ ZA 10.30am-7.30pm.

Via degli Strozzi, 28/r. T: 055 216559. been open to the public for over four centuries Map E3 LI V IA E L(since 1612). Its products (perfumes, beauty Giardino X SS X O di Valfonda V products, medicinal herbs, herbal teas, sweets R II Valli Tessuti Alta Moda I A VI LL P A and chocolates) are sold all over the world in 75 R A reference point in Florence that offers its clientele IL G VI U E E A LF single brand stores and represent a production par IA the best made in Italy fabrics inspired by the most A Firenze Fiera CO San Giuliano P O excellence on account of their quality raw materialsI N I beautiful haute couture collections. The store carries DA NN CE D I centuries-old handicraft techniques, with the and aid B. a vast assortment of precious, sought-after cuts to AC V. San Barnaba CE of modern monumental T O technologies. The frescoed make elegant dresses, prêt-à-porter and ceremonial PIAZZA ADUA environments - Sales Room, Green Room, Ancient attire both for men and women, but Valso coats, shirts Cenacolo di Foligno E IA L Apothecary and Sacristy - have been returned to their and bridal GU A gowns. vallitessuti.com. Open Mon 3pmSan Jacopo di Ripoli N EL FA IO former splendour thanks to restoration work. www.

Z 7pm; A Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. Via della Vigna Nuova, 81/r. esa N Casa di Riposo I americana N smnovella.com.

Open daily 9am-8pm. Via della Scala, della Beata MercatoD3 Map T: NO James I A 055 282485.

Elisabetta Vendramini AN Centrale V V I A T: 055 216276.

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16-20 (Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm/2pm-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm). Flagship Store: Via della Vigna Nuova 88/r. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. T: 055 2399527.

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[ D A I LY T O U R S ]

Fashion outlets LUGANO MENDRISIO

Not far from Florence, in Tuscany but also in nearby EmiliaRomagna, don’t miss a trip to these shopping destinations offering discounts year-round.

BERGAMO BRESCIA

NOVARA

TRIESTE

MILANO

ALESSANDRIA TORINO

PIACENZA? Fidenza Village GENOVA

MAR LIGURE VENTIMIGLIA

FORTE DEI MARMI

FERRARA

MAR

BOLOGNA ?

LUCCA

PISA

Castel Guelfo ADRIATICO The Style Outlets

Barberino RIMINI ? Designer Outlet THE APPENNINI MOUNTAIN RIDGE

FIRENZE SAN GIMIGNANO ? The Mall Firenze

LIVORNO

SIENA

Valdichiana

? Outlet Village

ANCONA

PERUGIA

BARBERINO DESIGNER OUTLET McArthurGlen Barberino is conveniently located adjacent to the A1 motorway, for easy access from Florence (just 30 minutes from the city centre). McArthurGlen also boasts “Serravalle” near Milan (the largest Designer Outlet in Europe), “Castel Romano” near Rome, “La Reggia” near Naples and “Noventa di Piave” close to Venice. Open daily 10am-8pm.

• WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the direction of Bologna and exit at Barberino. Daily shuttle bus service from Florence Santa Maria Novella train station (4 times a day). Meeting point: City Sightseeing Firenze Line A Stop No.1, Florence SMN Train Station, left-luggage office side.

• WHAT: the perfect location to find your favourite designer brands at up to 70% off, all year round.

With more than 120 boutiques, cafés and restaurants, children’s play area and free parking, surrounded by wonderful Tuscany countryside and architecture, Barberino Designer Outlet offers something for everyone. McArthurGlen.it/Barberino CASTEL GUELFO THE STYLE OUTLETS The point where quality, style and convenience meet: men’s, women’s and children’s clothes, sportswear, accessories and cosmetics with discounts of between 30% and 70% all year round. Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets is located in the Emilia-Romagna region, 1.5 hours from Florence. Open Mon-Fri 10am-8pm; Sat and Sun 10am-8.30pm.

• WHERE: take the A1 Bologna-Ancona and exit at Castel San Pietro Terme. A free shuttle service is available daily from Castel San Pietro Terme railway station.

46 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I J U LY 2018

• WHAT: 110 boutiques by prestigious brands – such as Baldinini, K-way, Flavio Castellani, Guess, Pepe Jeans, Timberland, Trussardi and Vans – of clothing and accessories for the whole family, CORSICA sportswear, items for the home and beauty products, with discounts of up to 70% on the retail price.

• NOT ONLY SHOPPING: to make the day of shopping even more enjoyable, the centre also hosts art exhibitions, lots of events and initiatives designed to involve the whole family. www.thestyleoutlets.it FIDENZA VILLAGE This is one of the 11 Villages in Europe and China

by Value Retail and one of The Bicester Village Shopping Collection® Villages: a place where SARDEGNA hospitality makes the shopping experience memorable. The Village is located in the EmiliaRomagna region, 2 hours from Florence. Open daily 10am-8pm.

• WHERE: halfway between Bologna and Milan, near Parma. Take the A1-E35 motorway and exit at Fidenza/Salsomaggiore Terme.

• WHAT: an exclusive shopping experience with unique hospitality at the core of the services and with over 130 boutiques of the world’s leading fashion and lifestyle brands at reduced prices (up to 70% off ), including Versace, Armani, Missoni, Calvin Klein, Diesel, Paul Smith and Michael Kors.

• NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Village pays homage to the region’s rich cultural and gastronomic heritage. After your day of shopping, visit one of its restaurants to indulge in delicious homemade pasta with fresh Parmesan cheese from nearby Parma. www.fidenzavillage.com

THE MALL FIRENZE The luxury outlet centre The Mall Firenze is a gallery of the world’s most exclusive designers at truly advantageous prices, offeringPESCARA customers a unique shopping experience. It is set in the heart of the Tuscan countryside, just 30 minutes from Florence.

Open daily 10am-7pm (in June, ROMA July, August 10am-8pm).

• WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the direction of Rome. Leave the motorway at the “Incisa-Reggello” exit and proceed on the right towards Pontassieve, as far as Leccio. Direct bus NAPOLI service from central Florence (Busitalia/Sita bus station-Via S. Caterina da Siena, near the central railway station, €7). Exclusive door-to-door minivan service from centrally located hotels in Florence (€35 round trip). Ask your concierge.

• WHAT: over 40 luxury stores (fashion, fragrance and footware) featuring your favourite brands with discounts of up to 70% year-round: Gucci, Fendi, Salvatore Ferragamo, Dolce&Gabbana, Jimmy Choo, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta and Chloé (June 2018 Opening).

• NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Gucci Caffè Restaurant, on the top floor of the Gucci store, is the perfect spot for a lunch break or just to savour a moment of relaxation after a day’s shopping. www.themall.it VALDICHIANA OUTLET VILLAGE An authentic “Shopping Village” in the province of Arezzo (1 hour from Florence), offering a pleasant, relaxing atmosphere and a unique shopping experience characterised by quality and convenience. It has several facilities and services, such as a beauty centre, a playground, the library and several food courts where the

best local food and wines are on offer.

Open daily 10am-8pm.

• WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the direction of Rome and exit at Valdichiana Bettolle.

• WHAT: 140 designer and brand shops characterized by quality and convenience offering 30% to 70% discounts all year round and further discounts during sale periods: Adidas, Baldinini, Brooks Brothers, Calvin Klein, Diadora, Geox, Guess, Levi’s, Massimo Rebecchi, Samsonite, Tommy Hilfigher, Under Armour and many others.

• NOT ONLY SHOPPING: ample choice of the restaurants and refreshments, a modern playground, the possibility of recharging your electric car, free wi-fi, mobile phone recharge and, in the event of rain, the possibility of walking in the dry beneath the porticoes. www.valdichianaoutlet.it

Valdichiana Outlet Village

Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets

The Mall Firenze

Fidenza Village

Barberino Designer Outlet w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 47

FOOD&WINE

700 years of wine-growing tradition The Ristorante Frescobaldi Firenze combines fine cuisine and quality wines, produced on the estates of one of the oldest wine-growing families in Italy and set in a breathtaking location. By Sophia Bertoli

T

he Frescobaldi family, one of Italy’s historical wine-making dynasties, could not resist choosing an equally historical setting as the location for its restaurant, namely Piazza della Signoria. Frescobaldi Firenze, which moved to this charming new location a few months ago, carries forward the same philosophy of excellence of which the Frescobaldi Marquises have been ambassadors for more than 700 years now. The first Frescobaldi winegrowing estate was in fact registered in 1300 and just a century later popes, kings and illustrious personalities of the age already featured among their customers. Today the Frescobaldi family possesses eleven estates, ten of which in Tuscany, and distributes its wines in sixty-five countries worldwide. The restaurant in Piazza della Signoria came about thanks to the partnership between Good Food Society, a major name in high-quality catering, and Diana Frescobaldi.

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Here the respect for Tuscan traditions, with great attention paid to raw materials and the use of seasonal products from the local territory, is wisely mixed with Italian regional recipes and a very contemporary desire for experimentation. Chef Roberto Reatini is particularly proud of his fresh pasta and home-made bread with Laudemio, the extra-virgin olive oil produced on the Frescobaldi estates. Each morning the kitchens of the restaurant bake traditional wholemeal bread, crostini with rosemary and Puglia-style focaccia.

Needless to say, the menu is accompanied by an extensive wine list, which includes a selection of Frescobaldi labels, along with others from the best Italian wine cellars, most also available by the glass, in addition to aperitifs and cocktails. >> Frescobaldi Firenze Piazza Signoria, 31. T: 055 284724. www.frescobaldifirenze.it

Tenuta Perano. The Perano estate is located in the heart of Chianti classico in Gaiole and enjoys exceptional climate and soil.

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM

FOOD SHOPS Galanti Delicatessen and wine shop. Classic dishes as well as soups, pappa al pomodoro, ribollita, chicken galantines, to eat in, under the porticoes outside or to take away. Wide selection of wines and home-made jams. Everything made with extravirgin olive oil and prime quality ingredients. www.gastronomiagalanti.com. Open Mon-Sat 8.30am-8pm. Piazza della Libertà, 31/r. T: 055 490359. Off Map

Giumella

VEGAN With recipes based on the products of the Florentine countryside, this delicatessen offers organic zero miles food, made the same day. Recipes with cereals and legumes, seeds and seasonal products. Among the specialties: reseitan – stone-ground Tuscan durum wheat semolina with water, salt and lentils – plus vegan cheeses based on walnuts, almonds, sunflower seeds, oats or rice flour. www.giumellavegan.it. Open Mon-Fri 10.30am-8pm. Via Lorenzo di Credi, 12/r.

T: 393 8221084. Off Map

Pegna

Classic. To find out where Pescecane will be stopping, check the website www.pescepane.it.

It recently opened “La Cucina di Pescepane” in via Carducci, where you can find the same specialities.

Open Tues-Sun 12 noon-3pm/7.30pm-10.30pm.

Via G. Carducci, 3 (Sant’Ambrogio district).

T: 055 2344397. Map L3

amidst little tables and large windows. Huge selection of over 380 makes of rum, unique in the whole of Florence. Open from lunch to aftersupper, also hosts events. cafe1926firenze.com.

Via G.B. Niccolini, 30/r (Sant’Ambrogio district).

T: 055 2346296. Map L2

Pugi

Opened in Florence in 1934, this family-run wine shop offers a wide selection of wines and spirits from all over Italy and abroad, with a particular focus on France. www.enotecabonatti. it. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via V. Gioberti, 66-68/r.

T: 055 660050. Off Map

Florentine’s favourite bread shop since 1925.

Known for its schiacciata (a type of sponge cake), reputed to be one of the best in town, in classic or rustic versions, and for delicious stuffed focaccia, pizza, fritters and a vast range of breads and pastries. www.fornopugi.it. Several locations: Piazza San Marco, 9/b. T: 055 280981 (open Mon-Sat 7.45am-8pm; Via San Gallo, 62/r. T: 055 475975 (open Mon-Fri 7.45am-3.15pm); Via G. Orsini, 63-65. T: 055 689763 (Open Mon-Sat 8.45am-7.45pm). Off Map

WINE SHOPS Caffè 19.26 This bistrot in the Sant’Ambrogio district does a selection of Tuscan wines, Italian spumanti and champagne, served in a Bohemian atmosphere

Enoteca Bonatti

Signorvino In the heart of the city just steps from Ponte Vecchio, the shop has a choice of 1500 labels of selected wines from the best Italian cantinas, applying the same formula used in its 15 outlets across the country. It also does simple quality food from the various regions. The terrace has a wonderful view of the Arno and Ponte Vecchio. www.signorvino.com. Open daily 9.30am-midnight.

Via de’ Bardi, 46/r. T: 055 286258. Map F5

With over 150 years behind it, this shop has become part of Florentine history. Just steps from the Duomo, a historic drugstore with all kinds of Tuscan, Italian and international specialities: rare cheeses, salumi and prosciutti. Plus a vast choice of wines and imported products like spices, coffee, tea and chocolate. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. pegna.it. Via dello Studio, 8.

T: 055 282701. Map G3

STREET FOOD Antico Vinaio If when walking along Via de’ Neri you happen to come across a queue of people with a hungry air, there can be no doubt: they are waiting for a schiacciata at the Antico Vinaio. Just a stone’s throw from Piazza della Signoria, it is considered among the best street food available in Italy: its filled schiacciata and boards of Tuscan cured meats, accompanied by a glass of Chianti, are eaten at the counter, on stools or walking around Florence. €. www.allanticovinaio.com. Via Dei Neri 65/r. T: 055 2382723. Map G5

Cucciolo

PASTRY SHOP Bar-patisserie in Via del Corso, famed in the city for more than 40 years for its “bomboloni” (fried doughnuts) baked on the spot, dunked in sugar and filled with cream or chocolate.

Worth a visit just for the show: the freshly made bomboloni are carried up from the kitchen on a ramp in full sight before depositing them directly in the sugar. Open Tues-Thurs 7.30am-10pm; FriSun 7.30am-midnight. Via del Corso, 25/r.

T: 055 287727. Map G3

Pescepane

FISH Panini, fish & chips, mozzarella in fried bread, fried fish … all some of the specialities of this itinerant Street Seafood food truck. The delicious and creative menu varies each day depending on the availability of ingredients, using sustainable and high quality produce, often organic, with vegetables of the season and homemade sauces. Apart from the great food there is the visual appeal of the historic Italian Apecar

The perfect place for an out-of-town stop Good, genuine food, a relaxed yet classy style and the magnificence of the Italian countryside all around you. There is everything you’d expect from Tuscany at Chiosco ai Renai, a rural eatery where it is possible to enjoy the tastes of the tradition, good wine and also a choice of original cocktails. With a garden with panoramic views and an internal dining room, the place is a reference point for those looking for tourist information, for those wishing to purchase a selection of organic products or for those hoping to come across a small art exhibition or to listen to a little live music. But, above all, it is an adorable place to stop by yourself, with your partner, family or friends, amid hammocks and tables, wine glasses and chopping boards, with Tuscany all around you. Lunches, aperitifs and snacks are all served over the course of the day. The eating place is located in Castelfiorentino, around 30 kilometres from Florence, in Val d’Elsa; it is also known as “little Florence” on account of its strategic importance in Florentine history and its wealth of architectural heritage.

Chiosco ai Renai. Castelfiorentino (1 hour from Florence) - Via del Vallone, 34.

Mob. 329 8938692

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DINING

An oasis of good taste Situated amid centuries-old parks, sculptures and Renaissance buildings, the Michelin-starred restaurant Il Palagio offers a traditional regional cuisine, enriched by a touch of modernity. By Chiara Zaccarelli

L

ocated inside the Four Seasons Hotel, a setting abounding in history and art, and composed of two Renaissance buildings, the Il Palagio restaurant is an oasis of peace and good taste. Here, amid the centuries-old trees and sculptures of the Giardino della Gherardesca, the largest private garden in the city’s historic centre, you can soak up the serene, hospitable atmosphere of a grand Tuscan noble house.

Leading the team in the kitchen is chef Vito Mollica, who earned Il Palagio a Michelin star in 2011, thanks to a menu focusing on fine Italian and Tuscan cuisine, created on a seasonal basis with ingredients provided by local producers. Among chef Mollica’s ‘must haves’ is “cheese and pepper cavatelli with

red shrimps and baby squid”, which was given the award of dish of the year by Espresso magazine’s Guide to Italian Restaurants 2013.

The menu occasionally ventures beyond the confines of Tuscany, offering truffle-based dishes, wagyu meat, Iberian pork or three kinds of caviar, or desserts with exotic flavours such as “frozen mango Daiquiri”, yet they all harmonise perfectly with the ingredients of the local cuisine. The wine list includes more than 400 labels, 50 of which are also served by the glass.

Italian refined cuisine, classy wines and elegant location: this is Il Palagio restaurant

52 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I J U LY 2018

>> Il Palagio c/o Four Seasons Hotel Firenze Borgo Pinti, 99. T: 055 2626 450 www.ilpalagioristorante.it

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM

TUSCAN CUISINE 13 Gobbi Trattoria

In the heart of the old centre just steps away from the Lungarno, the Trattoria 13 Gobbi occupies a historic building where it offers authentic reinterpretations of the most genuine Tuscan recipes. Among the specialities of the house, rigatoni (served in a traditional stoneware tureen) and the inevitable bistecca alla fiorentina. €€. www.casatrattoria.com/trattoria-13-gobbi. Via del Porcellana, 9/r. T: 055 284015. Map D3

Benedicta

EDITOR’S TIP The Benedicta restaurant, to which the Michelin Guide 2017 assigned 3 forks, is a pearl hidden away in a side street near Santa Maria Novella, inside the Rivoli Boutique Hotel. Italian and Tuscan cuisine revisited in a contemporary vein, with a menu based on locally sourced ingredients that changes every two months depending on the season. Open 7.30pm-11pm; closed on Sun. From late April to October you can dine in the romantic flower garden. €€€. www.ristorantebenedicta.it. Via Benedetta 12/r. T:055 2645429. Map C2

Bordino Trattoria High up in a little street just a stone’s throw from the Ponte Vecchio, the Trattoria Bordino is always crowded with both locals and tourists because of its quality food at very affordable prices. The dishes are traditional, with bistecca alla fiorentina grilled directly on wood charcoal the speciality. A wide selection of Italian wines accompanies the dishes in a pleasant, relaxed environment. €€. www.trattoriabordino.it. Via Stracciatella, 9/r.

T: 055 213048. Map F5

Cammillo A historic Florentine trattoria not far from Ponte Vecchio. Inside it is as if time stood still: the (very long) menu has practically all the classic Tuscan recipes, plus a few you wouldn’t expect like prawn curry with pilaf rice, actually one of Cammillo’s signature dishes. Also very good are the croutons with chicken livers, the ribollita, tripe, bistecca alla fiorentina and stuffed rabbit. €€. Borgo San Jacopo, 57/r. T: 055 212427. Map E5

Cibrèo Trattoria Traditional dishes cooked in the slow time-honoured manner, rustic atmosphere with large friendly tables, also outdoors in summer. The menu is packed with regional delicacies, imaginatively re-invented: insalata di trippa, minestra di pane, polenta all’olio novello, passata di pesce, stuffed

rabbit. Highlighted by the Michelin Guide as value for money. €€€. www.cibreo.com. Via de’ Macci, 122/r. Map L3

Da Burde The menu changes with the mood of the kitchen, and the seasons. Here you’ll find croutons with chicken livers, fiorentina, pappa col pomodoro, and ribollita. Highlighted by the Michelin Guide as excellent value for money, the atmosphere has remained that of the early 1900’s, as has the food, simple but rich in flavour. A well-stocked cantina, with Tuscan and Piedmontese wines but also French, including some fine champagne. €€€. www. vinodaburde.com. Via Pistoiese, 154.

T: 055 317206. Off Map

Fuor d’acqua The cuisine of the Tuscan tradition also includes fish dishes. And in this restaurant in the historic centre you can find the true taste of the sea thanks to the fish that arrives daily from Viareggio. The quality raw materials are cooked in the essential way, as in the Catalana and paccheri alla Trabaccolara and the main courses based on the day’s catch. €€€. www.fuordacqua.it. Via Pisana, 37/r. T: 055 222299.

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IO Osteria Personale In the neighbourhood of San Frediano, which still conserves the charm of the most authentic Florence, surrounded by wooden ceilings and brick walls, a modern tavern that has a preference for the products of the territory, reinterpreting them in an innovative way. Among the titbits are crispy vitel toné, ravioli of wild salmon, whipped cream, ginger, herring caviar and dill or tagliatelle with raw red shrimps and seasonal mushrooms. €€. www.ioosteriapersonale.it. Borgo San Frediano 167/r. T: 055 9331341. Map B4

La Ménagère A concept restaurant not far from Battistero, combining restaurant, bistrot, florist and design store. In an ambiance of industrial design, the restaurant offers a high quality menu at affordable prices, combining traditional dishes based strictly on seasonal products, with a penchant for experimentation in the mix of flavours and textures. €€. www.lamenagere.it. Via De’ Ginori, 8/r. T: 055 0750600. Map F1

Latini (Il) Historic trattoria near Santa Maria Novella highlighted in the Michelin Guide. Besides bistecca alla fiorentina, there are pork chops

and ribs on the Il Latini grill, as well as roast beef or lamb. Also available are Florentine tripe and peposo (peppery Tuscan beef stew), depending on the season. The cantina is well stocked with the best Tuscan wines, autochthonous and non, as well as the big French labels. €€€. www.illatini.com Via dei Palchetti, 6. T: 055 210916. Map D3

Locale Firenze A restaurant steeped in history, in an ancient building where by just descending a few steps you can travel - like in a time machine - from the Renaissance to 13th-century Florence, to the wine cellars that conserve Roman remains. It is possible to stop for just an aperitif with sophisticated cocktails, accompanied by small snacks, or stay for dinner with dishes from the tradition revisited in a contemporary vein. €€€. www.localefirenze.it. Via delle Seggiole, 12/r. T: 055 9067188. Map H3

Lungarno23 In the splendid setting of Lungarno Torrigiani, this restaurant is famous for its Chianina meat hamburgers, which are certified with the I.G.P. mark and come from small local farms. Forget the image of fast food, because here the hamburger is accompanied by fresh ingredients, hand-made sesame seed bread, freshly fried potatoes and browned onions. €€. www.lungarno23.it. Lungarno Torrigiani, 23. T: 055 2345957. Map G6

L’Ortone Situated in the emerging San Ambrogio foodie district, opposite the charming street market, the menu is based on typical Tuscan dishes, with a focus on traditional first courses and grilled specialities, including of course the fiorentina. If you want to try something more adventurous you can’t go wrong with the pork liver confit with kale and Boretto onions. €€. www.lortone.it. Piazza Lorenzo Ghiberti 87/r. T: 055 234 0804. Map L4

Maccheroncino (Il) Those who don’t eat meat in Florence might encounter a few difficulties, but luckily there are also some excellent fish restaurants. Il Maccheroncino is a small seafood bistro located outside the tourist circuits, in the Rifredi neighbourhood. Fish dishes according to availability and typical products of the cuisine of Le Marche are prepared here with fresh and seasonal ingredients. €€. www.ilmaccheroncino.it.

Via Reginaldo Giuliani, 43/r. T: 388 7575928.

Off Map

L’ORTONE L’Ortone is in Piazza Ghiberti, opposite the charming Sant’Ambrogio street market. The menu draws inspiration from Tuscan cuisine (painstakingly revisited) and offers a wide choice of antipasti, first courses and grilled specialities, including of course the bistecca alla fiorentina. Opened in 2014, it has always relied on young but expert and professional staff. A good mix of elegance and sobriety. Open daily.

www.lortone.it Piazza L. Ghiberti, 87/r.

T: 055 2340804.

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B. Tempio Maggiore the Tuscan tradition, but in Florence and N Israelitico PIAZZA IC Sinagoga C around these streets, it is now a trademark O GUGLIELMO V. CAMPANELLA LI N L L E T TA R O C Oin PIET I VIA G. LEOPARD V I Awell. forI eating When, 1979, theOBERDAN eclectic Fabio Picchi opened his first restaurant here, V IA he probably didn’t imagine that in around DI M EZZ O Chiesa di 40 years he would have practically colonised Sant'Ambrogio P. GAETANO the entire district, even becoming a genuine SALVEMINI VIA PIETRAPIANA Trattoria V. M “partisan of Tuscanness” (even though, in AR Loggia ● BOR T IR G I D del Pesce EL reality - as we will see - he certainly does not ● Ristorante ● C.BioO LA CROCE P O Teatro del Sale ● PO P. DEI L O V IA D CIOMPI E L L 'U ● ● Cibleo disdain contaminations).

L IV O Porta allaculinary Croce P. LORENZO P. PIETRO Caffè GHIBERTI Today in these streets the “premiata ditta ANNIGONI PIAZZA Mercato di Picchi” [award-winning Picchi company], BECCARIA CESARE Sant'Ambrogio VIA VIA FE DEL which, besides Fabio, also numbers his sonV I A V I N C RD L'A INA ENZ GN Chiesa ND OLO Giulio Cattolica and many other precious collaborators O Parrocchiale PA OL VIA VI S. Maria Degli Angeli I A E GH RI among its members, possesses four places DE IBE VIA L LL FI DEL INA CO to eat and drink, a theatre and an organic L'A GN Archivio di Stato OLO shop, each of which with a vision and a story VIA behind it that deservesV to told. You just I A be GIOT GH IBE O (many) have to choose through which ofT its VI LL E INA A S IN A C D E L I doors you want to enter the world of Cibrèo.

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A few yards from the Ristorante, if you turn the corner, you find the trattoria that the Florentines call “Cibrèino”. Here you will PIAZZALE find a substantial Tuscan menu, not MICHELANGELO very different from that of the dell'Iris restaurant, but with an atmosphere and a service thatGiardino are more informal and at decidedly lower cost. Remember that it is not possible to book in advance here, so take into account that you will have to wait a while before being seated to eat.

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THE BEST OF CIBRÈO DISTRICT ADVERTORIAL

CIBRÈO CAFFÈ From morning till evening there is always something tasty here. From hot croissants, fresh from the oven, going on to lunch with seasonal salads, schiacciatina flatbread with handcut prosciutto, bite-sized bread pieces with Florentine liver pâté and “Tuscan club sandwich” with roast beef. And then the Caffè’s own original puddings for a mid-afternoon snack, and on to dinner with meat from organic farms.

www.cibreo.com/caffe Via del Verrocchio, 5/r. T: 055 2345853.

CIBLÈO What others would call fusion, for Picchi is simply Tuscan/Oriental cuisine. With this small eating place (with only 16 places to sit, 8 of which at the counter), furnished in style, it pays homage to the cuisine of the Rising Sun and its truest, most authentic tastes thanks to original dishes combining flavours and cultures, Yuzu and olive oil, tortelli and ravioli.

www.cibreo.com/cibleo Via del Verrocchio, 2/r. T: 055 2477881.

C.BIO C.BIO is a shop/market with a bakery, a delicatessen and a pastry shop inside it, where it is also possible to purchase clothes, products for personal care, animals and the home, all coming from local, rigorously sustainable companies.

C.Bio is open to the neighbourhood and is intrinsically associated with the nearby Market of Sant’Ambrogio, where it has a butcher’s stall and another for bread, milk and pasta.

www.cbio.it Via della Mattonaia, 3A. T: 055 2479271.

TEATRO DEL SALE A theatrical association where actors, musicians and artists of various kinds perform on the stage. Under the guiding eyes of Maria Cassi, artistic director and wife of Fabio Picchi, every evening, after a gargantuan meal (obviously courtesy of Cibrèo) the show begins, and there are songs, dances, sometimes tears, at others fits of laughter. You need to become a member to take part in the initiatives of the Teatro del Sale.

www.teatrodelsale.com Via de’ Macci, 111/r. T: 055 2001492.

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Top hotel restaurants Tradition, innovation and creativity: Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite in several top hotels in Florence.

By Jasmine Piazza

Hostaria Bibendum Borgo San Jacopo c/o Hotel Lungarno Borgo San Jacopo, 62/R. T: 055 281661 www.borgosanjacopo.com On the banks of the Arno, with a postcard view of Ponte Vecchio, the Borgo San Jacopo restaurant is the perfect place for a romantic evening. The traditional Italian dishes are reinterpreted using fine quality ingredients by Michelin-starred chef Peter Brunel, accompanied by collector wines from a cantina of 900 labels.

Flora & Fauno c/o Hotel Ville sull’Arno Lungarno Cristoforo Colombo 3/5. T: 055 670971 www.hotelvillesullarno.com Facing the river and immersed in the lovely garden of the Hotel Ville sull’Arno, Flora & Fauno offers a peaceful spot with a vintage country feel in which to explore the flavours and aromas of Tuscany. Classic traditional recipes revisited in a contemporary accent. The protagonists on the menu are the local ingredients, juxtaposed sometimes in new and unexpected ways, at other times sticking to tradition.

Golden Restaurant c/o Golden Tower Hotel & SPA Piazza Strozzi 11/r. T: 055 287860 www.goldentowerhotel.it The cuisine is based on the authentic flavours of Florentine and Italian wine and food, whose trump card is the guaranteed freshness and quality of the ingredients, chosen personally by the chef.

Intimate and refined atmosphere, with high class furnishings and fittings.

Gourmet Restaurant c/o Sina Villa Medici Via Il Prato, 42. T: 055 2771891 www.sinahotels.com Tuscan specialities in a fabulous setting. A mix of culinary tradition and fancy comprising reinventions of fine Tuscan cuisine, in the

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sophisticated ambiance of the Sina Hotel Villa Medici, an aristocratic 18th-century palace, recently renovated and restored to its former splendour.

Hostaria Bibendum c/o Helvetia & Bristol Via dei Pescioni, 8/r. T: 055 2665620 www.starhotelscollezione.com This restaurant located in a magnificent 19th-century palace offers a menu inspired by tradition with a penchant for local producers and ingredients.

Alongside more contemporary Italian dishes, a fully-rounded experience of Florence has to include Tuscan specialities such as panzanella, Chianti salumi and cheeses, pappa al pomodoro and honeylacquered duck, as well as desserts like cantucci with Vin Santo and Florentine sponge cake with Buontalenti gelato and vanilla topping.

Il Conventino a Marignolle c/o Villa Tolomei Hotel & Resort Via di Santa Maria a Marignolle, 10. T: 055 3920425 www.ilconventinoamarignolle.com A very romantic view and frescoed rooms in a wonderful 12th-century villa surrounded by a vast estate comprising 20 hectares of olive groves, vineyards and orchards. The kitchen proposes traditional Tuscan and Italian dishes, prepared with seasonal products from the estate or the nearby countryside. Regional specialities typical of Tuscany, as well as the favourites of Italian cuisine.

Il Palagio c/o Four Seasons Hotel Firenze Borgo Pinti, 99. T: 055 2626450 www.ilpalagioristorante.it A sophisticated ambiance with tables both inside and outside, Il Palagio is a Michelin-starred restaurant whose culinary offering looks to Italian and regional tradition with a modern touch. Chef Vito Mollica ventures far beyond the confines of Tuscan cuisine with dishes based on truffles, wagyu beef and three types of caviar. The wine list comprises more than 400 labels, of which 50 are also served by the glass.

The hotel also has two other restaurants: La Magnolia and Trattoria al fresco.

Irene c/o Hotel Savoy Piazza della Repubblica, 7. T: 055 273 5891 www.roccofortehotels.com Inside the Hotel Savoy, a sumptuous fin-de-siècle building with an extraordinary collection of art works, the restaurant boasts a menu inspired by chef Fulvio Pierangelini, who together with head chef Giovanni Cosmai has designed a series of classic and new versions of Tuscan tradition, using the best local and seasonal products.

J.K. Lounge Restaurant & Bar c/o JK Place Firenze Piazza di Santa Maria Novella, 7. T: 055 5321910 www.jkplace.com Here are Tuscan and Italian specialities made with local and seasonal ingredients, preferably organically farmed. In the summer months the elegant dining room, styled as a cosy living room, opens onto the terrace in the marvellous Piazza di Santa Maria Novella.

La Cucina del Salviatino c/o Il Salviatino Via del Salviatino, 21- Fiesole (FI). T: 055 9041111 www.salviatino.com Majestic 15th-century villa in the hills of Fiesole, with a captivating view of Florence. Cuisine with strong links to the local territory and the seasons, with a prevalence of meat courses, though there is no shortage of fish and vegetarian dishes. The historic orchard and organic vegetable garden ensure zero food miles.

Le Bistrot c/o Villa Cora Viale Machiavelli, 18. T: 055 22 87 90 www.villacora.it The location in itself is extraordinary: an ancient park that dominates the Boboli Gardens, the aristocratic residence that once hosted princess Eugenia, wife of

DINING

Napoleon III, and the French pianist Claude Debussy, among others. The menu, created by Executive Chef Alessandro Liberatore, offers traditional Tuscan dishes made exclusively with seasonal and for the most part locally sourced products. In winter the restaurant occupies the exquisite oriental Sala Moresca with its frescoed cupola ceiling, while in the summer it moves poolside to the winter garden.

Relais Le Jardin c/o Hotel Regency Piazza M. D’Azeglio, 3. T: 055 245247 www.regency-hotel.com Located in the elegant Sala Zodiaco, amidst huge mirrors, candles and a veranda that in summer opens onto the private garden, the restaurant’s chef Sandro Baldini proposes a rich array of Italian and Tuscan dishes (home-made pasta and regional specialities such as truffles, porcini mushrooms, costolette alla fiorentina and others besides) that vary depending on the season’s ingredients, always fresh and of the highest quality.

Ristorante La Chiostrina c/o Bernini Palace Piazza San Firenze, 29 (Piazza della Signoria). T: 055 288621 hotelbernini.duetorrihotels.com One of the most elegant and sophisticated restaurants in the historic centre, housed under a

16th-century portico. The menu draws on the most genuine local flavours, such as the celebrated pappa al pomodoro, for a sensory journey through Tuscan cuisine. Besides regional specialities, the menu also offers international dishes.

Ristorante La Loggia c/o Belmond Villa San Michele Via Doccia, 4 - Fiesole (FI). T: 055 5678200 www.belmond.com This imposing 15th-century loggia is worth the visit just for its magnificent position looking over Florence. Regional Tuscan specialities and classic Italian dishes.

Savini Tartufi Truffle Restaurant c/o NH Collection Firenze Porta Rossa Via Porta Rossa, 19. T: 055 3995913 www.savinitartufi.it/restaurants/savini-firenze Palazzo Bartolini houses one of the three restaurants in Italy run by Savini Tartufi, a family-owned business famed for nearly 100 years for its exclusive selection of truffles. Truffles are served all year round: from antipasto to dessert, savour the best varieties of fresh Tuscan truffles, from the Black Truffle and Tuber Borchii, to the more expensive White Truffle and Tuber magnatum Pico. Classic truffle items are flanked by other sophisticated dishes: tagliolino, egg, tartare. The menu also includes classic Tuscan dishes.

Se•Sto on Arno c/o The Westin Excelsior Florence Piazza Ognissanti 3. T: 055 27152783 www.westinflorence.com Local flavours and seasonal products for a Tuscan cuisine with a touch of innovation and an unforgettable view of Florence. On the sixth floor of The Westin Excelsior, SE•STO on Arno combines a restaurant, lounge, bar and garden enclosed by sweeping picture windows that make the most of the unique position and breathtaking view over the city.

Villa La Vedetta c/o Villa La Vedetta Viale Michelangiolo, 78. T: 055 681631 www.villalavedettahotel.com Just moments away from the Piazzale Michelangelo belvedere, with a breathtaking view over Florence, is this discreet and elegant restaurant with a rich wine list, mainly focused on fine Tuscan reds. Local cuisine, with products and recipes typical of the region, so with meat, though there are plenty of vegan and vegetarian options too.

Winter Garden by Caino c/o The Saint Regis Florence Piazza Ognissanti, 1. T: 055 27163770 www.wintergardenbycaino.com Immersed in the fin-de-siècle atmosphere of the Hotel Saint Regis Florence, the Michelin-starred restaurant Winter Garden by Caino, was born out of a creative liaison between chef Valeria Piccini and executive chef Michele Griglio. Their menu shines an innovative spotlight on the wonderful local cuisine, with suggestions from all parts of the globe. It ranges from the classic Tuscan dishes for strong stomachs such as tripe and lampredotto to more refined proposals like lobster tail on cream of topinambour and mandarin. The desserts, too, are a joy for both eyes and palate, in particular their original take on tiramisù.

Il Conventino a Marignolle

Savini Tartufi Truffle Restaurant

Gourmet Restaurant

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DINING

Michelin-starred restaurants

Bottega del Buon Caffè

Il Palagio

In addition to the historic and well established Enoteca Pinchiorri, with its prestigious three Michelin stars, there are seven other Florentine restaurants that have been awarded one star. Let’s enjoy them together.

By Sophia Bertoli

Borgo San Jacopo c/o Hotel Lungarno Borgo San Jacopo, 62/r T: 055 281661 www.borgosanjacopo.com Overlooking the banks of the Arno, with a picture postcard view of Ponte Vecchio, the restaurant Borgo San Jacopo is perfect for a romantic evening.

In this case the winning recipe is one that blends creativity, tradition and quality ingredients (lamb in sea water or Bresse rooster and octopus are an example of this), all washed down with wines chosen from a cellar of 900 labels. You can opt for the tasting menu (the potato-based one is unmissable) or à la carte.

Bottega del Buon Caffè Lungarno Benvenuto Cellini, 69/r T: 055 5535677 www.borgointhecity.com/it/la-bottegadel-buon-caffe Zero food miles products gathered from the organic vegetable garden that the restaurant possesses in the Florentine countryside, meat reared by local farms and fresh fish. These are the strong points of the Bottega del Buon Caffè. On the Lungarno, in the shadow of the medieval Tower of San Niccolò, chef Antonello Sardi proposes a cuisine based on the use of seasonal ingredients, with a predilection for herbs and spices to bring out the flavours. The seasonal tasting menus include gems such as amberjack served in three ways (tartare, ’ventresca’, fillet) or home-made cappelletti with pigeon, butter and thyme.

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Enoteca Pinchiorri Via Ghibellina, 87 T: 055 242757 enotecapinchiorri.it How do you manage to be honoured with three Michelin stars, the highest recognition, which is only achieved by a hundred restaurants worldwide? In the case of the Enoteca Pinchiorri, it comes from the winning combination of prime quality raw materials, the search for innovation, yet without forgetting the territory’s (great) culinary tradition, obsessive attention to every detail and an unrivalled wine menu, which includes highly prized labels, along with others that are little known but equally interesting. Then we can add the fact that the restaurant is located inside the 18th-century Palazzo Jacometti-Ciofi and that its desserts are a delight for the senses.

Il Palagio c/o Four Seasons Hotel Firenze Borgo Pinti, 99 T: 055 2626450 www.ilpalagioristorante.it Inside the Hotel Four Seasons, in a sophisticated environment with tables both indoors and outdoors, Il Palagio bases itself on a culinary proposal that looks to the Italian and regional tradition with a touch of modernity, as in the terrine of foie gras with Vin Santo gelée or cheese and pepper cavatelli with red shrimps and baby squid.

Chef Vito Mollica offers a menu that is a symphony of flavours, raw materials and colours, at times

venturing far beyond the confines of Tuscany with dishes based on truffle, wagyu beef or three kinds of caviar. The wine menu includes more than 400 labels, 50 of which also served by the glass.

La Leggenda dei Frati in Villa Bardini (Costa San Giorgio) Costa S. Giorgio, 6/a T: 055 0680545 www.laleggendadeifrati.it Inside the Villa Bardini museum complex in Costa San Giorgio is the one-star restaurant La Leggenda dei Frati. A breathtaking view over Florence and across vineyards at the rear, these are just the cherry on the cake of a creative culinary proposal, which in this case too draws its inspiration from the local tradition, with a propensity for quality meat (the boiled sausages and ’soppressata’ are self-produced), but also for vegetables picked directly from the restaurant’s own vegetable and herb garden and for the hand-made bread using flour from ancient grains.

Ora d’Aria Via dei Georgofili 11/r T: 055 20016 9 www.oradariaristorante.com An hour of air to escape from culinary boredom.

We don’t know if the owner had this in mind when he gave this name to his restaurant, just a stone’s throw from Ponte Vecchio, but it certainly gives that impression. Tuscan chef Marco Stabile is playing at home with dishes that are a reminder of granny’s recipes but tending towards a more creative contemporary style. Lovers of strong flavours can delight in dishes such as soft-crisp piglet or pigeon cooked in three ways. For lunch the choice of the "tapas" formula allows you to try a selection of small portions of gourmet dishes. The wine cellar boasts Tuscan wines, but also prized Italian and French labels and a highly select menu of beers.

DINING

Ora d’Aria

Borgo San Jacopo

Winter Garden by Caino c/o Hotel Saint Regis Piazza Ognissanti, 1 T: 055 27163770 www.wintergardenbycaino.com Steeped in the fin-de-siècle atmosphere of the Hotel Saint Regis Florence, the Winter Garden by Caino has come about from the creative liaison between chef Valeria Piccini and executive chef Michele Griglio. Their menu brings the territory’s great cuisine back to the limelight in an innovative way, with elements from every part of the globe, ranging from classic Tuscan dishes for strong stomachs such as tripe and lampredotto to more refined proposals, such lobster tail on topinambour and mandarin cream. Also the desserts, particularly the ’Diversamente Tiramisù’, are a joy for the eyes and the taste buds.

Winter Garden by Caino

La Leggenda dei Frati

Enoteca Pinchiorri

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Florentine foods termes ’Lampre…’ what’s that? Florence has a multitude of culinary specialities of peasant origin that are still very popular in the city today. Some are so niche as to be unknown outside Florence, let alone to foreigners. So we’ve decided to put together a glossary of Florentine food terms to help you find your way among the soups, animal parts you never thought you could eat and distinctive eateries. By Chiara Zaccarelli cuisine” containing liver, chicken hearts, crests, eggs, lemon juice and onion. Even though presented like that it seems to be an inauspicious mixture, it is famous for having been one of the favourite dishes of Caterina de’ Medici, who attempted - unsuccessfully - to export it to France and it seems she was so fond of it that it gave her indigestion a number of times.

Lampredotto

CANTUCCI This is one of the best-known cake recipes in Tuscan cuisine. The finger-shaped almond biscuits are made by slicing up a long roll of baked dough while still hot. The dough is made with flour, sugar, eggs, butter and raw almonds, not toasted or shelled. Tuscans normally dunk their ’cantucci’ in a fortified local wine called Vin Santo made from dried grapes. You can find them in any bakery or local foods shop.

CIBREO A dish for strong stomachs, Cibreo is a typical main course of Florentine “poor

Marione Trattoria The atmosphere of an old-fashioned trattoria in the historic centre of Florence. Here it is possible to taste the typical dishes of Tuscan cuisine surrounded by barrel vaults and baked brick floors. Ribollita, taglierini with truffle, bistecca alla fiorentina and Tuscan cured meats are among the most popular dishes. If you go at the weekend it is advisable to book in advance, because there is usually a long queue of people waiting outside. €€. www.casatrattoria.com/trattoria-marione.

Via della Spada 27/r. T: 055 214756. Map E3

Opera Situated inside the Grand Hotel Adriatico, a few steps from Santa Maria Novella Station, the Opera 60 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I J U LY 2018

LAMPREDOTTO This is Florentine street food par excellence.

But watch out, it’s not for weak stomachs.

Actually it’s a cow’s fourth stomach, known as the ’abomaso’, cooked in a herb broth and most commonly served in a panino soaked in the broth or topped with the local parsleybased green sauce. Historically a poor man’s dish, it is still very popular in Florence today thanks to the numerous open-air kiosks known as “lampredottai”, doing a roaring trade with Florentines as well as tourists who can’t wait to try this speciality, accompanied by the obligatory glass of wine.

PAPPA COL POMODORO On the face of it this is just another variant of bread and tomatoes. But until you’ve tried this soup made of stale bread (unsalted), tomatoes, garlic, basil, extra virgin Tuscan olive oil, salt and pepper, you’ll never guess how good it is. Everyone loves this tasty,

restaurant offers dishes from both the Italian and the typical Florentine and Tuscan culinary traditions. In a relaxed and elegant atmosphere, with a music background of the most important operas, you can taste tortelli,tagliata, steak alla Fiorentina and the traditional Florentine dessert ’zuccotto’. Its wine cellar deserves a special mention. Open 7.30pm-10.30pm; closed on Sun. €€. www.hoteladriatico.it. Via Maso Finiguerra, 9.

T: 055 294447. Map C2

Osteria Badalì Located in the heart of a rather quiet district, San Niccolò. A culinary proposal that revisits the traditions of the past, all about long cooking times and essentials, starting with the study of old

Ribollita

genuine dish, including the kids. So much so there’s even a popular children’s song all about it.

RIBOLLITA Another delicious country dish typical of Florence and the whole of central Tuscany is ribollita, a soup made of stale bread, kale and beans (borlotti, toscanelli or cannellini). ’Ribollita’ literally means boiled several times.

The name derives from the fact that in the old days peasants used to make a large pot and serve it, heated up, over a number of days, each time tastier than before.

Pappa col pomodoro

cooking texts found on the second-hand book stalls and based above all on homemade pasta and traditional soups, as well as pork products. €€. www.badaliosteria.it. Via dei Renai 11/r. T: 055 2264422. Map H6

Touch Bistrò Toscano Three young entrepreneurs who met over the hobs of the hotelier institute have made their dream a reality by opening this bistro that favours the use of seasonal ingredients selected from the nearby market of Sant’Ambrogio in the neighbourhood of the same name. The menu, which gives a touch of freshness to the Tuscan tradition, proposes, among other things, ravioli di ossobuco, fried egg and fagioli all’uccelletto, but

DINING also monkfish and squid. €€. touchflorence.com.

Via di Mezzo 42/r. T:055 2466150. Map I3

The “fiorentina”

Buca Mario

Bistecca alla fiorentina is one of the most iconic dishes in Florence cuisine. But be careful: to recognize the original and tell it apart from the hundreds of impostors, there are a few tips you need to know.

Cooking a “fiorentina” is a genuine ritual with unwritten rules that the visitor needs to know to avoid falling foul of the restaurant owner, paying over the odds and to make sure they get the real thing.

WHAT. This succulent steak is obtained from a specific cut of a young Chianina cow, a part of the loin near the backbone which has a T-bone in the middle.

It should be grilled at a very high temperature, so that a fine crust forms rapidly on the meat. All the flavour of this dish depends on the cooking: the meat must be brown on the outside but red, soft and juicy on the inside, hot, but not cooked through. This is the first vital rule: a fiorentina must be eaten rare.

HOW. It should also be at least 3 or 4 cms thick, and weigh between 1.2 kg and 1.5 kgs, although bigger steaks are easily available. And here is another sore point.

At a restaurant you pay for a fiorentina by weight. An average price to be sure of getting the real thing is around 50 euros a kilo.

WITH. The traditional accompaniment is usually cannellini beans, washed down with a glass of Chianti.

WHERE. Here are four restaurants where you can’t go wrong: Il Latini (www. illatini.com), Buca Lapi (www.bucalapi. com), Da Burde (www.vinodaburde.com) and Perseus (www.casatrattoria.com/ ristorante-perseus-firenze).

(C.Z.)

€€€€. www.kokorestaurant.it. Piazza F. Ferrucci, 4/5 r. T: 055 6587428. Off Map

Tuscani 3 (I)

Momoyama

If you love “ciccia” (which is what Tuscans call red meat), you must not miss this steakhouse and delicatessen that is very famous in the city. Located in the heart of the historic centre, a few steps from Piazza della Repubblica, it obviously offers the typical bistecca alla fiorentina but also selections of Tuscan pork, cured meat boards or steak tartare and hamburger made rigorously with Chianina meat. €€. http://ituscani3.com.Via Dante Alighieri 18/r.T: 055 285356. Map F4

One of Florence’s historic Japanese restaurants, where alongside the classic sushi and sashimi there are rolls with creative combinations, soups, raw meats and fish, chicken teriyaki, udon and other hot dishes, in the tradition of the Rising Sun. Located over the Arno in the cool San Frediano district, on weekdays at lunchtime it turns into a noodle bar. €€€€. www.ristorantemomoyama.it.

Borgo S. Frediano, 10. T: 055 291840. Map D4

Zeb

NEW OPENING A new arrival in the Rooster family, which already boasts one Americanstyle bar in the city. The concept is that of the restaurant/cocktail bar, just a few steps from Piazza della Repubblica, serving classic American meals such as hamburgers, ribs and BBQ, using prime Tuscan ingredients, preferably organically sourced. €. www.roosterfirenze.com. Via Porta Rossa, 63/r.

T:055 2645006. Map F4

Just moments away from Piazzale Michelangelo and the Giardino delle Rose, Zeb - highlighted by the Michelin Guide - serves a host of traditional Tuscan dishes such as cappellacci, tripe, lampredotto, meat balls and stuffed rabbit. A tiny place, the diners eat at the bar, like a delicatessen (actually, its former identity). There is a large selection of Italian wines, with a special focus on small local producers. €€. www.zebgastronomia. com. Via San Miniato, 2. T: 055 2342864. Map H6

CANTINE Antica Mescita San Niccolò Ever wanted to eat lunch in a 1000 AD Romanesque crypt? In Florence you can, at the Antica Mescita San Niccolò, which also used to serve as a customs post for wine originating from Chianti. Naturally, the wine is excellent and predominately Tuscan and the food also reflects the season and the local territory, with dishes such as cold cuts and mixed cheeses, ribollita, bistecca alla fiorentina and lampredotto, to name just a few. €€. www.osteriasanniccolo.it. Via San Niccolò, 60/r.

T: 055 2342836. Map H6

Buca Lapi This is one of Florence’s oldest eating places.

Crafted out of the wine cellars of the Renaissance Palazzo Antinori, it still preserves traces of over a century of history thanks to the meticulous restoration of the internal frescoes. Buca Lapi is particularly popular with lovers of the real fiorentina, but the other local Tuscan dishes are worth trying too, such as croutons, ribollita or wild boar with polenta. €€€. www.bucalapi.com. Via del Trebbio 1/r. T: 055 213768. Map E3

Buca Mario For years ordinary folk have rubbed shoulders with famous names beneath the bare brick ceilings of Buca Mario to enjoy simple, genuine Florentine cuisine (although you can still request a private room for up to ten people in classic 16th-century Florentine style). The bistecca alla fiorentina is excellent, as is the ribollita or pappardelle with Maremma boar ragù. €€. www.bucamario.com.

Piazza degli Ottaviani, 16/r. T: 055 214179. Map D3

INTERNATIONAL & ETHNIC CUISINE Koko Sophisticated chic and fine Japanese cuisine off the main tourist circuits. Besides the classic raw fish dishes (vast selection of tartare, carpacci, sushi and sashimi) Koko’s particular speciality is teppanyaki – various ingredients cooked on an iron griddle. In the private room guests can also dine on tatami.

Rooster Firenze

PIZZA O’Munaciello Housed in a 17th-century monastery in the historic Santo Spirito quarter, it recreates the atmosphere of a Naples street, complete with hanging washing and masks typical of Neapolitan Commedia dell’arte. Besides wood oven pizzas, here you can try other traditional Campania dishes, with products from small producers and consortiums situated along the coast. Every Wednesday night there’s live music (Neapolitan). €. www.munaciello. com. Via Maffia 31/r. T: 055 287198. Map D5

Pizza Man Right in the city centre, this colourful Neapolitan school pizzeria with a fun atmosphere does gluten-free and 100% vegan pizzas as well as the traditional variety. Now those with a food intolerance or special dietary needs don’t have to go without a tasty pizza. €. www.pizzaman.it. Via dell’Agnolo 105/107r. T: 055 2480200. Map H4

Pizzaiuolo (Il) Just steps from the Sant’Ambrogio market, this is one of Florence’s oldest pizzerias. Here again the pizza is Neapolitan: wood oven cooked, with quality in-season toppings, mostly sourced from Campania. The rest of the menu also follows Neapolitan tradition, with first courses of fish and local desserts such as babà and pastiera. €. www. ilpizzaiuolo.it. Via dei Macci, 113/r. T: 055 241171.

Map I3

Pizzeria Spera One of Florence’s favourite pizzeria’s even won the world’s pizza championship a few years ago. This simple and intimate little place just outside the old centre serves a light crispy pizza with a choice of different types of bread dough and a full range of quality toppings. €. www.pizzeriaspera.it. Via della Cernaia, 9/r. T: 055 495286. Off Map

Santarpia In a room decorated with blue and brown handpainted tiles, the wood oven turns out pizzas made with choice, slow-rising flours, tomatoes from Vesuvius and mozzarella from Campania cheese makers. All accompanied by craft beers or wines from small producers. €. www.santarpia.biz. Largo Pietro Annigoni, 9/c.T: 055245829. Map L3 w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 61

ENTERTAINMENT

Chick Corea Akoustic Band © 2018 Toshi Sakurai courtesy Chick Corea Prod

When music meets art Florence’s Musart festival offers an unusual combination of music and culture, set in the spectacular Renaissance square that serves as a backdrop for the events By Elena Peverata

T

he location: a Renaissance square of rare and perfect stylistic harmony. The reason: a music festival with big names and music for all tastes. A further reason: the possibility of visiting the art institutions overlooking the square on an entirely exceptional basis during the evening hours. Three good arguments to recommend the Musart Festival 2018, a festival of events programmed between 17 and 28 July in the very central Piazza della Santissima Annunziata, transformed for the occasion into an elegant open-air theatre. Among the major names this year are Roberto Bolle with his Gala Evening “Roberto Bolle and Friends” (20 July, see Hot Dates), Chick Corea, a living jazz legend (23 July), and Jethro Tull, the legendary prog rock band (24 July). In addition to well-known names on the Italian music scene, there are also two evenings of classical music: with the Orchestra della Toscana (18 July) performing pieces by Gershwin and

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Bernstein, and with the Orchestra del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino with airs and songs from the operas (27 July). The festival closes on Saturday 28th with a charming special event: the Concert at Dawn (4.45am) by pianist and composer Roberto Cacciapaglia in the enchanting Cortile degli Uomini, inside the Istituto degli Innocenti.

The strong point of the unique formula of Musart is the combination of major concerts with culture: during the festival evenings, and until the concerts commence, spectators in fact have the possibility of visiting some of the most significant art institutions that overlook Piazza della Santissima Annunziata and the adjacent Piazza Brunelleschi totally free of charge. >> Musart Festival Firenze 2018 17-18 July Piazza della Santissima Annunziata www.musartfestival.it

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM

APERITIVI Chiaroscuro Opened in 1999 as a place to celebrate coffee, Florentines today are attracted by the original and genuine snacks. Coffee, hot chocolate and aperitifs served in a popular bar-cafe furnished with a retro touch. Until 9.30pm. www.chiaroscuro.it. Via del Corso, 36/r. T: 055 214247. Map G3

Easy living

Rooftop terrace with view of Ponte Vecchio. www. signorvino.com. Via de’ Bardi, 46/r. T: 055 286258.

Map F5

Three Sixty From May to September the Grand Hotel Minerva, next to Santa Maria Novella, opens its magnificent panoramic terrazza with swimming pool to outside guests. Aperitifs from 7pm. www.grandhotelminerva. com. Piazza di Santa Maria Novella. T: 055 27230.

Map E2

Better known to Florentines as the “spiaggina” (little beach), its location is quite singular: this strictly summer-only bar is built right on the river-bed of the Arno, opposite Torre San Niccolò, from where patrons can enjoy a leisurely aperitif with a stunning view of Ponte Vecchio, often with live music. There is always a cooling breeze, a big plus in a sweltering Florence summer. www.easylivingfirenze.it. Piazza G. Poggi. T: 055 2341112. Map I6

Zoe

Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura

Ditta Artigianale

The style of one of the world’s favourite fashion brands, a star chef and an incomparable location, surrounded by Florentine art. Popular at any hour, aperitifs are a particularly draw. www.gucci.com.

Piazza della Signoria, 10. T: 055 75927038. Map F4

Il Locale

Cocktails and apericena accompanied by hookah, in a bar with essential modern furnishings and soft lighting. For years a favourite with the younger crowd, always a lively atmosphere in the trendy San Niccolò district. www.facebook.com/zoebarfirenze. Via dei Renai, 13. T: 055 243111. Map H6

BRUNCH Founder Francesco Sanapo finished sixth in a contest held in Melbourne in 2013 involving competitors from 60 countries to find the world’s best coffee barista. Back in Florence, he opened this bistrot which, besides the exceptional coffee, serves a

brunch menu (from 9am to 3.30pm) ranging from Greek yogurt and crudités to bacon and French toast.

Designer atmosphere. www.dittaartigianale.it. Via dei Neri, 32/r. (Santa Croce district). • T: 055 2741541 or Via dello Sprone, 5/r. (Santo Spirito district). T: 055 0457163. Map E5

Foody Farm “The right food from the right places” is the motto of this little restaurant where the quality and traceability of the ingredients is the holy grail. An original and genuine light lunch, with the option of half portions. Tuscan street food and fast food, including lampredotto and pecorino, chianina and croutons, besides pasta and soups. 11am till midnight. Intimate bistrot in the Santa Croce district. www.foodyfarm.it. Corso dei Tintori, 10/r. T: 055 242327. Map H5

Odeon Bistrot Burgers, brunch and aperitifs in this beautiful little restaurant with a very elegant exterior, white columns and vaulted ceiling. Open each day from 8.30 in the morning till 3 at night, for snacks and traditional Tuscan dishes as well as an exceptional wine list. City centre, next door to its namesake cinema. www.odeonbistro.it. Piazza degli Strozzi, 8/r.

T: 055 215654. Map E4

Ideal at any time of day, but perfect for aperitifs, located in a small street not far from the Duomo.

Hanging garden, lounge bar, cantina and intimate snugs, all beautifully restored. Exquisite nibbles and excellent wine list. www.localefirenze.it. Via delle Seggiole, 6. T: 055 9067188. Map G3

Il Rifrullo In 1981 it was the first American Bar in Florence and it has never lost its appeal as a rendezvous for both Florentines and visitors, renovated several times but still a landmark. You can enjoy its rightly acclaimed aperitifs and abundant buffet in the garden in summer or in front of the fire in winter. www.ilrifrullo. com. Via San Niccolò, 55/r. T: 055 2342621. Map H6

Moyo Aperitifs and light dinner in a locale that offers international cuisine, cocktails and DJ set in a modern and stylish setting, a landmark of Florentine nightlife. www.moyo.it. T: 055 2479738. Via dei Benci, 23/r. Map H4

Rivalta Cafè Aperitifs, DJ set and Italian menu in a chic venue that combines modern furnishings and frescoed ceilings.

The sight of the Arno at dusk always attracts a crowd. www.rivaltacafe.it. Lungarno Corsini 14/r. T: 055 289810. Map E4

Rooftop Bar La Terrazza Cocktails and champagne on an elegant patio furnished to contemporary taste, looking over at the medieval Consorti Tower. On the top floor of the Hotel Continentale. www.continentalehotel.com.

Vicolo dell’Oro, 6. T: 055 27265987. Map F4

Se·Sto on Arno The Westin Excelsior opens its bar for aperitifs every evening from 7pm to 9pm. Two large terrazze provide a 360° view over the marvels of Florence. www. westinflorence.com. Piazza Ognissanti, 3. T: 055 27151.

Map C3

Signorvino This wine bar on two floors offers Italian wines (more than 1500 labels, also to buy), coffee, aperitifs and snacks. Delicious Tuscan and other regional bites.

The lords of the Renaissance: the story of the Medici

ADVERTORIAL Gian Gastone and Anna Maria Luisa de’ Medici, the children of Cosimo III, reveal the

intrigues of their family’s relations, looking back over the history of their dynasty and the city of Florence over a period of 300 years. We are talking about “The Medici Dynasty Show”, a theatrical production in English that in the evening transforms the Baroque church of the former convent complex of Il Fuligno into the room in Palazzo Pitti where, with drama and comedy, the last descendants of the family that held Florence in their grip for over three centuries narrate the long story of power and patronage that enabled some of the greatest ever works of art to be created during the Renaissance. An interesting and entertaining way to learn about the history of this fascinating city and the powerful family that shaped it in their own image, just a few steps away from the places that saw the events told about actually unfold. www.medicidynasty.com

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ENTERTAINMENT Procacci

Teatro Verdi

Visarno Arena

This delicatessen founded in 1885 has become an institution, and not only in Florence, especially for its truffle-based specialities and impeccable selection of wines. Combines a gourmet food shop and wine bar in a relaxing atmosphere, with delicious snacks to eat in. 10am till 9pm (Sunday from 11am till 8pm). Historic venue in the heart of Florence. www.procacci1885.it. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 64/r. T: 055 211656. Map E3

The largest "Italian-style" theatre in Tuscany is located in Florence, in the historic district of Santa Croce, and hosts all genres of performance.

Inaugurated in 1854, since 2000 it has been owned by the Orchestra of Tuscany, which is based there. www. teatroverdifirenze.it. Via Ghibellina, 99. T: 055 212320.

Map H4

It is located inside the Ippodromo Visarno racecourse, located in Florence in the Parco delle Cascine. Surrounded by greenery and with seating for 60,000, the area is the favourite venue for major open-air events. Active since 2015, it has already hosted, among others, concerts by David Gilmour, Massive Attack, Einsturzende Neubauten, Sting and Duran Duran, but also the 2015 and 2016 editions of World Refugees Day. www.visarnoarena.it. Parco delle Cascine (approx. two kilometres from the Central Station of Santa Maria Novella). Off Map

Teatro del Sale Theatre-club-lounge-restaurant inspired by Florentine celebrity chef Fabio Picchi – formerly patron of the legendary Cibreo restaurant – and co-founder, president and artistic director Maria Cassi. Every day from 12-noon it serves a highly original brunch of buffet food and hot snacks at a fixed price of 15 euros (20 euros on Saturday and Sunday). From Tuesday to Saturday (7.30pm-9pm), dinner with after-dinner show, both at a fixed price of 30 euros. www.teatrodelsale.com. Via dei Macci, 111/r.

(Sant’Ambrogio district). T: 055 2001492. Map I3

CONCERT VENUES & THEATRES Teatro Comunale The Teatro Comunale di Firenze is the city’s largest theatre. Overall, it occupies approximately half a block between corso Italia, via Magenta and via Solferino. The main theatre has seating for around 1800, but also part of the complex is a foyer called the “Piccolo Teatro”, which can hold a little under 600 spectators. The name “Comunale” [Municipal] dates back to 1933, when the Florentine Maggio Musicale was established (see entry), but the theatre itself dates back to the second half of the 19th century. www.operadifirenze.it. Corso Italia, 16. T: 055 27791.

Map B2

Teatro Goldoni Inaugurated in 1817 in the presence of Ferdinand III of Habsburg-Lorraine, thanks to its proximity to Palazzo Pitti it soon became the court theatre. Oval-shaped, with 80 boxes distributed over four orders, the theatre experienced a period of abandonment. After a lengthy restoration, it returned to its original pomp in 1998, with a historical design by Italian director and actor Luca Ronconi. www.operadifirenze.it. Via Santa Maria, 15. T: 055 2779309. Map C6

Teatro del Maggio The Teatro del Maggio is in the centre, beside the old city walls, next to the historic Stazione Leopolda (see listing). The garden that welcomes visitors is Piazzale Vittorio Gui, named after the founder of the Stabile Orchestrale Fiorentina and the Florentine Maggio Musicale. Symphony concerts and operas are performed in a contemporary space in a large wood-covered hall. www.operadifirenze.it. Piazzale V. Gui, 1. Off Map

Stazione Leopolda Inaugurated in 1848, it was Florence’s first railway station: it was decommissioned, and today has become a sought-after venue for meetings, conferences and various events. A versatile, multifunctional space, it has its name associated with the recent history of Italy, being the venue of the event that launched the career of Florentine politician Matteo Renzi. www.stazione-leopolda. com. Viale Fratelli Rosselli, 5. T: 055 212622. Map A1

WELLNESS Bené SPA This 5-star luxury Villa Cora spa is found on the ground floor of Villino Eugenia and connected to the main hotel complex by an underground tunnel. It comprises a tepidarium, leisure area, small gym, sauna, hammam and three large private cabins for personalised treatments. The crowning glories are two prestigious partnerships: tailored face treatment products by beauty guru Sarah Chapman; and the body range from the historic Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, founded in Florence in 1612. www. villacora.it. Viale Machiavelli, 18. T: 055 228790.

Off Map

Firenze Number Nine This 4-star spa presents itself as an “Urban Wellness Hotel” that claims to be “the only city centre spa under original 15th-century vaults.”

A 400-square metre spa offering a full range of treatments, open every day, also to outside guests, though the under 16’s are not admitted.

Very well known, among Florentines too, is the Arya Beauty & Comfort Zone, again linked to the hotel (but closed on Tuesdays). www. firenzenumbernine.com. Via dei Conti, 9. T: 055 293777. Map F3

Four Seasons SPA A Four Seasons standard spa right in the heart of Florence. Ten body treatment cabins, a spa suite, plus open-air pool. Exclusive treatments like the Chianti massage and Tuscan cypress scrub are just the start of your wellness journey. Treatments for teens and children also available. The supermodern fitness centre is located in the quiet of the Gherardesca Garden. www.fourseasons.com.

Borgo Pinti, 99. T: 055 26261. Map L1

Golden Beauty & SPA This extremely stylish facility in the historic centre of Florence offers a Turkish bath, emotional showers, hydromassage, sauna and treatment zone plus expert care and advice. Part of the 5-star Golden Tower hotel, but also open to outside guests as the beauty centre annex every day from midday till 8pm. www.goldentowerhotel. it. Piazza Strozzi, 11. T: 055 287860.

Map F4

Il Villino SPA

THE FLORENTINE MAGGIO MUSICALE The Maggio is Italy’s first musical festival and since 1933 it was offered high-quality operas, concerts, dance shows and theatre events. The orchestra and the festival now live under the artistic direction of Zubin Mehta. www.operadifirenze.it

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A historic villa, completely renovated in 2014, the new Hotel Ville sull’Arno 5-star luxury boutique resort is very popular with Florentines. The Villino is a unique spa, studded with original details, luxury materials, and hand-made decorations

by Florentine craftsmen, offering a wide range of treatments, from hydromassage to the ice cascade. www.planetariahotels.com. Lungarno C. Colombo, 1/3/5. T: 055 670971. Off Map

ENTERTAINMENT

SPA VENUES IN TUSCANY

Bagni San Filippo

Bagni San Filippo A small town not far from the slopes of Mount Amiata, famous for millennia for its sulphur waters, which were used by the Etruscans, and for the white calcareous deposits that form the small, spectacular hot water falls (48 °C) of the Fosso Bianco.

Unlike the wellbeing and spa treatment centre, access to this area is free of charge.

Terme San Filippo, www.termesanfilippo. it. Via San Filippo, 23. T: 0577 872982. B&B Il Fosso Bianco, Via San Filippo, 22. T: 392 3449596. Bagni San Filippo (Siena).

Bagno Vignoni This tiny ancient stone village has one unique and unforgettable characteristic: at its centre is Piazza delle Sorgenti, an ancient pool measuring 49x29 metres (not for bathing) where the spar waters are collected, gushing out at a temperature of 52 °C and shrouding the village in evocative steam during the cold months.

Albergo Le Terme, www.albergoleterme.it.

Piazza delle Sorgenti, 13. Bagno Vignoni di San Quirico d’Orcia (Siena). T: 0577 887150.

Spa Resort Hotel Adler Thermae.

Bagno Vignoni

A region rich in natural thermal springs, Tuscany offers nothing but an embarrassment of choice from among the numerous structures spread out across the territory, particularly in the areas of Siena and Grosseto. In addition to the famous and historic Montecatini and Chianciano, full-blown health towns, there are more “discreet” structures, often associated with resorts, offering a different experience of (E.P.) relaxation and wellbeing. Here are some suggestions.

www.adler-thermae.com. Strada di Bagno Vignoni, 1. San Quirico d’Orcia (Siena).

T: 0577 889001.

Castello di Velona An 11th-century fortress transformed into a residential villa in the Renaissance, the castle - now a 5-star resort - is located on a hill overlooking the greenery of the Val d’Orcia. between Sant’Antimo and Montalcino.

The indoor and outdoor swimming pools (and the bathrooms of some of the rooms) use water from a nearby thermal spring originating on Mount Amiata.

Castello di Velona Resort Thermal SPA & Winery, www.castellodivelona.it. Località La Velona, Montalcino (Siena). T: 0577 839002.

Grotta Giusti The spectacular Grotta Giusti, on the outskirts of Montecatini, is a natural cave that winds its way among stalactites and stalagmites to a stretch of crystal clear water, the temperatures of which vary from 27°C to 34°C. Above all mud therapy and balneotherapy are practised there in baths enriched with ozone to stimulate the

metabolism of the blood vessels.

Grotta Giusti, www.grottagiustispa.com.

Via Grotta Giusti, 1411 - Monsummano Terme (Pistoia). T: 0572 90771.

San Casciano dei Bagni Classified among the “Most Beautiful Towns of Italy”, San Casciano stands on a hill immersed in the Siena countryside.

The Bagno Grande and the Bagno Bossolo are ancient washtubs where it is possible to bathe freely, while there are indoor and outdoor baths, wellbeing treatments and a splendid resort at Fonteverde, sheltered by a magical garden with views of Mount Amiata.

Fonteverde. www.fonteverdespa.com.

Località Terme, 1 - San Casciano dei Bagni (Siena). T: 0578 57241.

Saturnia - Cascate del Mulino Among the most beautiful free thermal baths in the world, the Cascate del Mulino are small natural pools supplied by small waterfalls that form a unique, unrepeatable environment. Next to them, the Terme di Saturnia complex has spring water pools, a wellbeing centre and a 5-star resort.

Cascate del Mulino, www.cascate-delmulino.info. Terme di Saturnia Spa & Golf Resort, www.termedisaturnia.it.

Località Follonata, Saturnia - Manciano (Grosseto). T: 0564 600111.

Terme di Petriolo The thermal baths are sited on a natural spring in the Valley dell’Ombrone, along the course of the River Farma. The waters, rich in salts, gush out at a temperature of 43 °C and are traditionally used to treat various pathologies of the respiratory tracts. www. termedipetriolo.it. Strada Provinciale di Petriolo, Monticiano (Siena).

Petriolo Spa Resort, www.atahotels.it/ hotel/petriolo-spa-resort. Località Bagni di Petriolo, Frazione Pari, Civitella Paganico (Grosseto). T: 0577 1606059.

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SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

A (successful) Italian in California Salvatore Ferragamo’s experience in Hollywood forms the thread running through an exhibition on the history of the myth and Italian culture in the heroic age of cinema. By Elena Peverata

W

hen Salvatore Ferragamo purchased Palazzo Spini Feroni in 1938 to move his activities there, his renown as a footwear stylist was already widely consolidated. After 13 years of activity in the USA – in California he was known as the “Shoemaker to the Stars” thanks to the large number of actors and actresses who frequented his “Hollywood Boot Shop”– his brand made the rules in the fashion field, from his traditionally elegant shapes to his more eccentric creations, often genuine art objects of high design quality and great modernity.

To safeguard such a stock of creativity, the family wanted to devote a full-blown museum to the stylist; this is hosted in the underground rooms of the large 13th-century building that also houses the company headquarters and (on the ground floor) the boutique with its shop windows facing onto the street.

66 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I J U LY 2018

The eight rooms are devoted to temporary exhibitions looking at the relationship between fashion and art. One or two rooms are used for the history of the Ferragamo fashion house and its creativity, and on display there – on a rolling basis – are over 14,000 models conserved in the museum archive.

The years spent by Salvatore Ferragamo in California at the dawn of the movie industry, in the 1920s, are the source of inspiration for the exhibition project currently in progress, which investigates that period, from his collaboration with the most famous directors of the time to the opening of the “Hollywood Boot Shop” (reconstructed here), and more generally the influence exerted on the world of art, craftsmanship and entertainment by the Hollywood myth and by Italian culture in California.

>> L’Italia a Hollywood 25 May 2018 - 10 March 2019 Museo Salvatore Ferragamo.

Palazzo Spini Feroni, Piazza Santa Trinita 5/r.

Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.ferragamo.com/museo

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM ALL CONTRIBUTIONS RELATED TO MUSEUMS AND EVENTS ARE BY Elena Peverata Lifestyle & Culture Editor Where ® Italia

ATTRACTIONS & MONUMENTS Duomo and Cupola Completed in 1436, at the time the Duomo in Florence was the largest Christian church in the world.

Today the religious building, whose official name is “Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore”, is third in terms of dimensions after St. Peter’s in Rome and St Paul’s Cathedral in London. The most important artists of the period participated in its creation (the bell tower is by Giotto), while the famous multi-coloured marble façade dates back to the 19th century. Brunelleschi’s Dome, still the tallest construction in the city, is a symbol known all over the world: it is possible to climb to the top (exclusively on foot) up its 463 steps. www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza del Duomo, 3/5-6. T: 055 2302885. Map F2

Battistero Located opposite the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, the Baptistery of St. John the Baptist is the building that completes the considerably striking appearance of the square. Its origins are uncertain, but its first official dating is at least in the 12th century.

It is characterised by an octagonal plan, lined with a dome of eight segments, covered by a pyramid roof.

The outside is decorated with white marble from Carrara and green marble from Prato, characteristics of the Florentine architecture of the Romanesque period. It has three famous doors, sumptuously decorated, and an interior that, with its marble and mosaics, is reminiscent of that of the Pantheon. Used in antiquity for the investiture of knights and poets, its praises are sung by Dante in the Divine Comedy. www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza di San Giovanni, 8. T: 055 2302885. Map F2

in the square are the Fountain of Neptune and a series of statues of Renaissance origin, representing one of the most important sculptural cycles in the world. The most famous is certainly Michelangelo’s David: the one on display in its original position is a copy, whereas the original is conserved in the Galleria dell’Accademia. Map F4-G4

Palazzo Vecchio Located in piazza della Signoria, today it is the seat of the Municipal Council of Florence. It is the finest synthesis of 14th-century civil architecture and is one of the best known civic buildings in the world. Its imposing façade, abounding in history, the charm of its magnificent courtyards and its precious interiors make it a site visited daily by hundreds of people. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza della Signoria. T: 055 2768325. Map G4

Ponte Vecchio There has been a bridge at this point of the River Arno ever since before the year one thousand; yet, between floods and reconstructions, the official date of foundation of the current Ponte Vecchio is given as 1345. For the entire Middle Ages the bridge hosted greengrocers’, fishmongers’ and butchers’ shops, who used the river to dispose of their waste in a hurry. At the end of the 16th century, however, when it became the “noble” zone of the city, the goldsmiths and jewellers started to arrive, and they have been there uninterruptedly to this day. To celebrate this history, on prominent display on the bridge is a bust of Benvenuto Cellini, the greatest goldsmith of the Renaissance. Access is gained to the bridge between via Por Santa Maria and Lungarno degli Archibusieri and between Borgo San Jacopo and via de’ Guicciardini. Map F5

Corridoio Vasariano The Vasari Corridor is a raised walkway connecting Ponte Vecchio with Palazzo Pitti. It is a rather narrow passage the entrance to which is at the beginning of the second corridor of the Uffizi Gallery; it then stretches along the Arno, over the Ponte Vecchio, finally arriving at Palazzo Pitti. It was built in 1565 by the great Florentine architect Giorgio Vasari. On

display along the Corridor are over 1000 paintings created between the 17th and 19th centuries and an important collection of self-portraits by great artists including Filippo Lippi, Rembrandt, Velázquez, Delacroix and Ensor. www.uffizi.it. Piazzale degli Uffizi, 6. T: 055 294883. Map E6-E5-F5-G5

Palazzo Pitti and Giardino di Boboli The symbol of wealth and power, the building was inhabited by the Medici in the period of their maximum splendour, then by the HabsburgLorraines and, after the Unity of Italy, by the Savoy family. The original architecture dates back to the 15th century and “Pitti” is the surname of its first owner. The building is located Oltrarno (on the left bank of the river), at the foot of Boboli Hill. It is from the latter that the famous Boboli Gardens take their name; they are one of the most important examples of Italian-style gardens in the world and are considered a genuine open-air museum on account of their admirable architectural and landscaped layout and their collection of sculptures, attracting approximately 800 thousand visitors a year. Currently they are the site of four different museums: the Treasury of the Grand Dukes, the Palatine Gallery and the Royal Apartments, the Gallery of Modern Art and the Museum of Fashion and Costume. They are connected to Forte di Belvedere. www.uffizi.it/ palazzo-pitti. Piazza de’ Pitti, 1. T: 055 294883. Map E6

Piazzale Michelangelo Piazzale Michelangelo is the most famous and appreciated panoramic point in Florence, with its views seen all over the world in million of postcards and reproductions. The design of the square dates back to 1869, when Florence was capital of Italy. Dedicated to the city’s most famous artist, the square has bronze copies of some of Michelangelo’s most famous sculptures. Access to the Piazzale can be gained by car, along the treelined Viale Michelangelo, or on foot, by climbing the monumental flight of steps known as the “Rampe del Poggi”, which start from piazza Poggi in the neighbourhood of San Niccolò. Map I7

FIRENZECARD

Campanile di Giotto 84.70 metres high and around 15 wide, a manifestation of 14th-century Florentine Gothic architecture, the Giotto’s bell tower is one of the four main components of the complex of Santa Maria del Fiore, in piazza del Duomo. Lined with white, red and green marble, like that adorning the Cathedral, the majestic square-based bell tower, designed by Giotto in 1334, can be visited by climbing no less than 414 stairs up to the top, from where you can enjoy extraordinary views of Brunelleschi’s Dome. www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza del Duomo.

T: 055 2302885. Map F3

Piazza della Signoria This is the central square of Florence, the seat of civil power and social heart of the city. L-shaped, it is located at the centre of medieval Florence south of the Cathedral. Already important in the Roman Age, the square has been gradually enhanced over the centuries; facing onto it are Palazzo Vecchio (see entry), the splendid Loggia della Signoria, the Tribunale della Mercanzia, Palazzo Uguccioni and Palazzo delle Assicurazioni Generali. Also prominent

Firenzecard costs €72, allows access to 72 museums and is valid for 72 hours from the initial entry to a museum on the Circuit. It can be purchased online or from one of the authorised sales points in Florence. It includes: • 1 entry ticket + 1 exhibition supplement + 1 priority ticket for each museum on the Firenzecard circuit • Priority access to museums without needing to book • 72 hours available www.firenzecard.it

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SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

San Miniato al Monte Not far from Piazzale Michelangelo, in via delle Porte Sante, stands the Abbey of San Miniato al Monte, a medieval religious building situated at one of the highest panoramic points in Florence. The most spectacular access is gained via the monumental flight of steps (which is not advisable, however, for those with problems walking). The outside of the church is decorated with green and white marble, typical of Florentine Romanesque, while a 12thcentury mosaic decorates the central part of the façade. The interior, which is unusual and of great beauty, boasts one of the city’s best conserved original floors. www.sanminiatoalmonte.it. Via delle Porte Sante, 34. T: 055 234 2731. Off Map

Mercato Centrale Built at the end of the 19th century in the period in which Florence was capital of Italy, the Central Market is a building of a certain architectural merit located between piazza del Mercato Centrale and via dell’Ariento, via Sant’Antonino and via Panicale.

The project was entrusted to Giuseppe Mengoni, the architect of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in Milan, who was inspired by Les Halles in Paris. Since 2014, on the first floor of the historic covered market there has been a complex containing dozens of small restaurants, leisure activities and street food options, and this has now become a point of reference for informal but good quality cuisine for both Florentines and tourists. www.mercatocentrale.it. Piazza del Mercato Centrale/Via dell’Ariento.

T: 055 2399798. Map F1

Santa Croce Together with Santa Maria Novella, San Lorenzo and Santo Spirito, it is one of the “great basilicas”,

a point of reference of the Franciscan order: a radiant example of Tuscan Gothic, it owes its sober appearance of wooden trusses and terracotta floors to Franciscan charisma. Giotto painted some of his great masterpieces here and the French writer Stendhal experienced that profound artistic agitation that has been known since then as the “Stendhal syndrome”. The basilica contains the monumental sepulchres of Michelangelo, Galileo and Machiavelli and for this reason was celebrated by the Italian romantic poet Ugo Foscolo as a temple of “italic glories”. www.santacroceopera.it. Piazza Santa Croce, 16. T: 055 2466105. Map H4

Santa Maria Novella Together with Santa Croce, San Lorenzo and Santo Spirito, it is one of the “great basilicas”, a point of reference of the Dominican order. Its foundation dates back to the end of the 13th century but work on it continued for centuries, so the church, with its elegant façade by Leon Battista Alberti, is a harmonious synthesis of Gothic and Renaissance styles. The church of Santa Maria Novella hosts exceptional works of art by Masaccio, Giotto, Brunelleschi, Filippino Lippi, Domenico Ghirlandaio and Paolo Uccello. www.smn.it. Piazza Stazione, 4 piazza Santa Maria Novella, 18. T: 055 219257. Map D2-E2

Santo Spirito Together with Santa Croce, San Lorenzo and Santa Maria Novella, it is one of the “great basilicas”, a point of reference of the Augustinian order. The church has given its name to the entire surrounding neighbourhood, “Borgo Santo Spirito”, located “Oltrarno”, that is, on the left bank of the river.

A jewel of Renaissance architecture, the church was the last great project by Filippo Brunelleschi

and conserves elegant and austere rationality in its architectural plan. In the interior there is also a wooden crucifix carved by a young Michelangelo. www.basilicasantospirito.it. Piazza Santo Spirito, 30. T: 055 210030. Map D5

San Lorenzo Together with Santa Croce, Santo Spirito and Santa Maria Novella, it is one of the “great basilicas” of Florence, founded, according to the tradition, by Saint Ambrose, the first bishop of Milan, in the fourth century AD: it is therefore one of the oldest churches in the city. Its current appearance, however, is the result of the last major reconstruction work that took place in the 15th century at the wishes of the Medici and under the direction of the great architect Filippo Brunelleschi. Its bare stone façade was intended to receive a rich marble decoration designed by Michelangelo, which unfortunately was never executed. The interior is a masterpiece, also embellished by sculptures by Donatello of rare expressive intensity. www.operamedicealaurenziana. org. Piazza di San Lorenzo, 9. T: 055 216634-055 214042. Map F2

MUSEUMS & EXHIBITION SITES Basilica di San Lorenzo This is one of the “great basilicas” of Florence, the oldest (see "Monuments&Attractions"), the current appearance of which is the result of the radical renovation begun in 1418 by Giovanni di Bicci, founder of the Medici dynasty. The complex conserves key works by Brunelleschi, Donatello, Michelangelo, miniated codices, sacred goldsmithery and paintings from the 15th to the 20th century, and is structured into the Basilica (with the Old Sacristy and the Treasure Museum), the Medici Chapels (which form a separate museum, see the relative indications) with the New Sacristy and the Museum, in the Laurentian Library (see entry). Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm. Sundays: from 1 March to 31 October 1.30pm-5.30pm. Closed: Sundays from 1 November to 29 February, 1 and 6 January, Easter, 10 and 15 August, 8 and 25 December. Full ticket price: Basilica €6, Basilica + Medici Library €8.50. www. operamedicealaurenziana.org. Piazza di San Lorenzo 9. T: 055 216634-214042. Map F2

Basilica di Santa Croce

GALLERIA DEGLI UFFIZI A new layout design for the museum’s large room 41 establishes new synergies between the masterpieces created by Raphael and Michelangelo when they were both in Florence. The ‘Doni Tondo’ by Michelangelo, for example, is now positioned beside the portraits of his clients, Maddalena and Agnolo Doni, painted by Raphael. www.uffizi.it

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A splendid example of Tuscan Gothic (13th century), it owes its sober appearance, with wooden trusses and terracotta floors, to the Franciscan order. The Basilica, the cloisters, the Sacristy, the Pazzi Chapel and the Museum of Opera are all part of the visitors’ itinerary. Mention must be made in particular of the sepulchres of Michelangelo Buonarroti and Galileo Galilei, the masterpieces by Giotto (Bardi and Peruzzi Chapels, Baroncelli Polyptych), by Taddeo Gaddi (The Last Supper, The Tree of Life) by Donatello (The Annunciation, Crucifix, Saint Louis of Toulouse), by Agnolo Gaddi (Alberti and Castellani Chapels) and

by Cimabue (the famous Crucifix). Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-5.30pm; Sun and holidays 2pm-5.30pm.

Closed 1 January, Easter, 13 June, 4 October, 25-26 December. www.santacroceopera.it. Piazza Santa Croce, 16 (visitors’ entrance: Largo Bargellini). T: 055 2466105. Map I5

Biblioteca Marucelliana A precious archive of rare pieces established between the 17th and 18th centuries by Abbot Marucelli, it conserves 500,000 volumes, manuscripts and prints. The ancient reading rooms, including the

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magnificent and spectacular “Salone”, are visitable during opening hours or with a guided visit (by booking in advance). Open Mon-Thurs 8.30am-6pm, Fri 8.30am-4pm. Closed Sat-Sun, 1 and 6 January, Easter, 25 April, 1 May, 2 June, 24 June, 15 August and 2 weeks in the second half of August, 1 November, 8 and 25-26 December. www.maru.firenze.sbn.it. Via Cavour, 43-45. T: 055 2722200. Map G1

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Palazzo Pitti Museums

Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana Part of the museum complex of the Basilica di San Lorenzo (see entry), it is one of the finest examples of the architecture of Michelangelo. Commissioned

by Pope Clement VII (a Medici) and completed at the wishes of Grand Duke Cosimo I in 1571, entry is gained by ascending the monumental staircase designed by Michelangelo and built by Bartolomeo Ammannati in 1559. The stained-glass windows were created by Flemish craftsmen from designs by the Vasarian school. The Library conserves approx. 11,000 Greek, Latin and Oriental manuscripts, often richly miniated, dating from the 5th to the 19th century, in addition to papyruses and rare print editions.

Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-1.30pm. Closed Sat, Sun and holidays. Full ticket price: Basilica + Medici Library €8.50. www.bmlonline.it. Piazza di San Lorenzo, 9. T: 055 2937911. Map F2

Cappella Brancacci The Church and the Convent of Santa Maria del Carmine, dating back to the mid-13th century, house the Brancacci Chapel, a masterpiece that is universally renowned for the frescos of the cycle of Scenes from the Life of St. Peter by Masaccio and Masolino da Panicale. Executed in 1425-1427, they were left unfinished and were eventually completed

by Filippino Lippi between 1481 and 1482. Access is permitted to the chapel by groups of a maximum of 30 people and the stay time is 30 minutes. You are advised to book (T: 055 2768224-8558). Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm, Sun and holidays: 1pm-5pm.

Closed on Tues and 1 January, 7 January, Easter, 16 July, 15 August, 25 December. Full ticket price: WedFri €6; Sat-Sun-Mon: Brancacci Chapel+Fondazione Salvatore Romano €7. www.museicivicifiorentini. comune.fi.it. Piazza del Carmine, 14. T: 055 2768224558-2382195. Map C5

Cappelle Medicee Since 1869 the Medici Chapels have been a state museum, but their history is closely associated with that of the Basilica di San Lorenzo, of which they are part (see entry). The museum consists of the New Sacristy, designed and conceived as regards its sculptural furniture by Michelangelo, the Chapel of the Princes, a monumental mausoleum built using semi-precious stones, the Crypt, where the Medici Grand Dukes and their relatives are buried, and the Lorenese Crypt, which, in addition to the remains of the Lorena family, contains the funeral monument to Cosimo the Elder, founder of the dynasty.

The museum also holds a part of the Treasure of the Basilica: sacred vestments and magnificent shrines. Open daily 8.15am-1.50pm; from 9 April to 4 November 8.15am-5pm. Closed: 1st, 3rd, 5th Monday and 2nd, 4th Sunday of the month, 1 January, 1 May, 25 December. Full ticket price: €8. www. bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/musei/2/medicee | www.operamedicealaurenziana.org. Piazza Madonna degli Aldobrandini, 6. T: 055 282984. Map F2

Cenacolo di Sant’Apollonia In around 1447 Andrea del Castagno frescoed the back wall of the refectory of the ancient Benedictine monastery of Sant’Apollonia (1339) with The Last Supper, The Crucifixion, The Deposition and The

A palace for three dynasties, this extraordinary building (see Attractions&Monuments) is located in the Oltrarno, at the foot of Boboli Hill. The famous Boboli Gardens, which are the park of the palace, a genuine open-air museum (see Museo Giardini di Boboli), take their name from this hill. Palazzo Pitti currently contains four different museums.

Treasures of the Grand Dukes (ground floor and mezzanine) Conserved in what were the summer apartments of the Medici family are the precious “Treasures of the Medici”: vases made of semi-precious stones, rock crystals, ambers and ivories, the exceptional collection of Oriental porcelains; there is also the silverware of the so-called “Treasure of Salzburg”, an important collection of jewels created between the 17th and 20th centuries, and a significant section dedicated to contemporary jewellery.

Palatine Gallery and Monumental Apartments (noble floor) The 14 sumptuously furnished rooms of the Royal Apartments offer a fascinating blend of styles telling of the daily lives and tastes of the various periods and families that lived there. The “Quadreria”,

the Picture Gallery, established between the 18th and 19th centuries by the Lorena family, includes the world’s largest concentration of works by Raphael, as well as paintings by Titian, Tintoretto, Caravaggio and Rubens.

Gallery of Modern Art (second floor) Today the sumptuous environments that were once the residence of the Lorena family house paintings and sculptures, mostly Italian, from Neoclassicism to the 1930s, with an important group of paintings by the Macchiaioli school.

Museum of Fashion and Costume (Palazzina della Meridiana) This museum possesses a stock of six thousand items, including ancient clothing, theatrical costumes and fashion accessories from the 18th century to today, in addition to underwear, jewels and costume jewellery. Included among the costumes are the 16th-century burial clothes of Cosimo I de’ Medici, Eleonor of Toledo and their son.

Open Tues-Sun 8.15am-6.50pm. Closed on Mondays, 1 January, 1 May, 25 December.

Museum full ticket price: €16 (1 Mar/31 Oct)/€10 (1 Nov/28 Feb). www.uffizi.it/ palazzo-pitti. Piazza de’ Pitti, 1.

T: 055 294883.

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Resurrection. Other outstanding frescos by Andrea del Castagno and paintings from the monastery are also on display in the museum. Open daily 8.15am-1.50pm. Closed 1st, 3rd, 5th Saturday and Sunday of the month e 1 January, 1 May, 15 August, 25 December. Free entry. www.polomusealetoscana. beniculturali.it. Via XXVII Aprile, 1. T: 055 2388608/610.

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Fondazione Palazzo Strozzi Palazzo Strozzi is one of the finest examples of private architecture of the Renaissance and a dynamic cultural centre that hosts international level exhibitions, ranging from ancient art to the Renaissance, to contemporary art. Always present are an exhibition devoted to Palazzo Strozzi, the café and the museum shop, which looks out onto the Renaissance courtyard, where concerts, performances, contemporary art installations and theatrical plays are organised. Open daily and holidays 10am-8pm, Thurs 10am-11pm. Museum full ticket price: €12. www.palazzostrozzi.org. Piazza Strozzi. T: 055 2645155. Map E3

Fondazione Salvatore Romano The museum is housed in the ancient Cenacolo (14th century) of the convent, built beside the church of Santo Spirito, the ancient function of which is recalled by the imposing fourteenth-century fresco

by Andrea Orcagna that decorates its eastern wall, with fragments of a Last Supper at the bottom and a superb Crucifixion at the top. The museum houses works donated to the Municipality of Florence in 1946 by collector and antiquarian Salvatore Romano, a precious collection of sculptures, fragments of architectural decoration, detached frescos and furnishings of various origins and from periods between the ancient Roman Age and the 17th

century. Entry to the Cenacolo is gained directly from Piazza Santo Spirito, to the left of the façade of the church. The museum is contained entirely within the vast setting of the Cenacolo. Open Mon and Sat 10am-5pm, Sun and holidays: 1pm-5pm.

Closed 1 January, 7 January, Easter, 16 July, 15 August, 25 December. Full ticket price: Brancacci Chapel+Fondazione Salvatore Romano €7. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it.

Piazza Santo Spirito, 29. T: 055 287043. Map D5

Forte di Belvedere At the end of the 16th century, Ferdinando de’ Medici commissioned Bernardo Buontalenti to design a fortress on the top of Boboli Hill, to incorporate a villa to be used as a “belvedere” by the Grand Duke’s court. Despite its strategic position, it was never used for defensive purposes; however, a vault was created in the underground floors to house the state treasury. The fort currently hosts top-level events and exhibitions. Open exclusively on the occasion f temporary exhibitions. Full ticket price: €3. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it.

Via San Leonardo, 1. Map F7

Galleria degli Uffizi The Gallery occupies the whole of the first and second floors of the large building erected between 1560 and 1580 based on a project by Giorgio Vasari; it is one of the most famous museums in the world on account of its extraordinary collections of ancient sculptures and paintings (from the Middle Ages to the modern age). The collections of paintings from the 14th century and the Renaissance contain a number of absolute masterpieces of the art of all time: from Giotto to Simone Martini, Piero della Francesca, Beato Angelico, Filippo Lippi, Botticelli, Mantegna, Correggio, Leonardo, Raphael, Michelangelo,

Flemish Astronomical ring dial (ca. 1550) from the Medici collection hosted at the MUSEO GALILEO.

Caravaggio and Canaletto. There are also important collections by German, Dutch and Flemish painters, including Dürer, Rembrandt and Rubens. The Museum also houses the famous Department of Drawings and Prints and the Classical Antiquities Collection. Open Tues-Sun 8.15am-6.50pm. Closed on Mondays, 1 January, 1 May, 25 December.

Museum full ticket price: €20 (1 Mar-31 Oct)/€12 (1 Nov-28 Feb). www.uffizi.it. Piazzale degli Uffizi, 6. T: 055 23885.Map F5

Galleria dell’Accademia di Firenze The Galleria owes its vast popularity to the presence of a number of sculptures by Michelangelo: the Prisoners, St. Matthew, but above the famous David, transported here from Piazza della Signoria (where it was replaced by a faithful copy) in August 1873. Housed in the adjacent premises, which were originally two convents, are works coming from the Academy of Design, the Academy of Fine Arts and the convents themselves, which were abolished in the Napoleonic Age. And also, the Gipsoteca, or Hall of Models, the collection of Russian icons and musical instruments of the courts of the Medici and Lorena families. Open Tues-Sun 8.15am-6.50pm. Closed on Mondays, 1 January, 1 May, 25 December. Museum full ticket price: €8. www.galleriaaccademiafirenze. beniculturali.it. Via Ricasoli , 58/60. T: 055 2388609/612. Map G2

Galleria Rinaldo Carnielo Conserved in the townhouse in Liberty style that was the home-studio of Rinaldo Carnielo (18531910) are over three hundred sculptures by the artist and a number of paintings by artists who were his contemporaries, such as Silvestro Lega, Michele Gordigiani and Arturo Calosci. An exponent of late 19th-century commemorative statuary, Carnielo had close relations with the environment of the Macchiaioli, of whom he was a friend and passionate collector. Museum temporarily closed to the public. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune. fi.it. Piazza Savonarola, 3. Off Map

Gino Bartali Cycling Museum

MUSEO DEGLI INNOCENTI This new museum - which was the first orphanage in Europe (15th century) - opened to the public in 2016 and combines art, architecture and the history of Childhood all together.

Its museum itinerary is developed around the theme of welcoming. www.istitutodeglinnocenti.it

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The museum is located at Ponte a Ema, the locality where the great cycling champion Gino Bartali was born and began his competitive career. The building, completed in 2006, contains a store of cycles from various periods, enabling visitors to recognise their technical evolution, the actual museum, with displays of velocipedes, bicycles, clothing and relics documenting the history of cycling and the feats of Gino Bartali and other

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champions, and finally collections of period newspapers, publications and films. Open Fri-Sat 10am-1pm, Sun and holidays: 10pm-4pm. Closed 1 January, Easter, 1 May, 15 August, 25 December.

Free entry. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it.

Via Chiantigiana, 175 - Ponte a Ema (30 minutes from Florence). T: 055 287043. Off Map

Museo degli Innocenti The Museum is located in the ancient Spedale degli Innocenti, a masterpiece of Renaissance architecture designed by Brunelleschi. Opened in 1445 as a refuge for abandoned children, today it continues its function as the “Institute of the Innocents”. The museum itinerary combines the documentary and historical-artistic heritage, and in its Gallery hosts precious artworks by Sandro Botticelli, Domenico Ghirlandaio, Bartolomeo di Giovanni, Piero di Cosimo, Neri di Bicci and Luca and Andrea della Robbia. EDITOR’S TIP On the terrace the elegant Caffè del Verone offers beautiful panoramic views. Open daily 10am-7pm. Closed 1 January, 25 December. www.istitutodeglinnocenti.it. Piazza Santissima Annunziata, 13. T: 055 2037308. Map H1

Museo del Bigallo The headquarters of two ancient benevolent institutions, the Compagnia della Misericordia and the Compagnia del Bigallo, the so-called Loggia del Bigallo is a complex the construction of which was begun in 1352. A precious record of the history of Florence, the museum conserves wonderful frescos from the 14th century, including the Virgin of Mercy (1342), presenting the first famous view of Florence and precious panels from the 14th and 15th centuries. Access only for pre-booked guided visits (T: 055 288496): Mon-Sat 10am, 12 noon, 3pm; Sun and holidays 10am and 12 noon. Free entry. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza San Giovanni, 1. T: 055 288496. Map F3

Museo dell’Opera del Duomo The Museum houses works designed and built for the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, the Bell Tower and the Baptistery: it is a unique collection, with masterpieces by Arnolfo di Cambio, Ghiberti, Donatello, Luca della Robbia, Antonio Pollaiolo, Verrocchio and Michelangelo, in addition to paintings, goldsmithery, liturgical vestments, ancient work tools, models and architectural projects. Open daily 9am-8pm.

Closed: 1st Tuesday of the month, 1 January, Easter, 25 December. Single ticket for the Museum and all the monuments of the Duomo (Dome, Baptistery, Giotto’s Bell Tower): €18 (online). www. ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza del Duomo, 9 (ticket office Piazza San Giovanni, 7). T: 055 2302885. Map G2

Museo dell’Opificio delle Pietre Dure An elegant collection of works made of semiprecious stones and multi-coloured marble and scagliola, paintings on stone and oil paintings, instruments, plus an extensive collection of stone samples. The works are displayed in chronological order from the early 17th century to the 1880s.

Open Mon-Sat 8.15am-2pm. Closed on Sundays and holidays. www.opificiodellepietredure.it. Via degli Alfani, 78. T: 055 218709. Map H1

Museo di Palazzo Vecchio For over seven centuries Palazzo della Signoria, or Palazzo Vecchio, has been the symbol of the city’s civil power, and today it is still the seat of the Municipal Council of Florence. Built in 1299, over

time it has undergone numerous enlargement and transformation projects. Along its labyrinthine routes are rooms and private environments sumptuously decorated by some of the most famous artists of the Florentine Renaissance, with period furnishings and exceptional masterpieces such as Judith and Holofernes by Donatello, The Genius of Victory by Michelangelo and Verrocchio’s Cherub. Open daily, from 1 April to 30 September: 9am-11pm; from 1 October to 31 March: 9am-7pm. Thursdays throughout the year: 9am-2pm: Closed on 25 December. Museum full ticket price: €10. www.museicivicifiorentini. comune.fi.it. Piazza della Signoria. T: 055 2768325.

Map G4

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courts. Populated by ancient and Renaissance statues, adorned with grottos - including the famous Buontalenti Grotto - and large fountains, such as those of Neptune and the Ocean, they are a genuine open-air museum. The terraced area includes the Rococò pavilion known as the Kaffeehaus and the Limonaia, the Lemon House.

At the centre of the Rose Garden is the Palazzina del Cavaliere, which houses the Porcelain Museum

Museo di Santa Maria Novella The complex of Santa Maria Novella includes the 13th-century Dominican Basilica and the monumental cloisters. The church contains extraordinary works such as Giotto’s Crucifix, Masaccio’s Holy Trinity, Brunelleschi’s Crucifix, the Tornabuoni Chapel by Ghirlandaio and his workshop and the Strozzi Chapel by Filippino Lippi. The cloisters present rare examples of the Florentine painting of the 14th and 15th centuries.

The Ubriachi Chapel and ancient Refectory house a permanent exhibition of gold jewellery, sacred furnishings and liturgical vestments, part of the church’s ancient Treasury, plus a series of paintings. Open: Mon-Thurs 9am-7pm (from 1 April to 30 September); 9am-5.30pm (from 1 October to 31 March). Fridays throughout the year: open from 11am. Saturdays throughout the year 9am-5.30pm; Sundays and Holidays 1pm-5.30pm.

Closed on 25 December. Full ticket price: €7.50. www.smn.it, www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it.

Piazza Stazione, 4 - piazza Santa Maria Novella, 18.

T: 055 219257- 055 282187.Map E3

Museo di Storia Naturale - "La Specola" Zoology Section Opened to the public in 1775, “La Specola” is one of Europe’s oldest science museums. It possesses a collection of over 3.5 million animals (5,000 exhibited to the public) and the largest collection in the world of 18th-century anatomical waxworks illustrating the entire human body in every detail (visitable by booking in advance, T: 055 2756444).

Open Tues-Sun 9.30am-6.30pm (1 Oct-31 May), Tues-Sun 10.30am-5.30pm (1 Jun-30 Sept). Closed on Mondays and 1 January, Easter, 1 May, 15 August, 25 December. Full ticket price €6. www.msn.unifi.it. Via Romana, 17. T: 055 2755100.

Map H1

Museo Galileo Housed in the historic Palazzo Castellani, its unique collections include ancient scientific instruments datable between the 11th and 19th centuries, including all of Galileo Galilei’s original instruments. One group consists of the collection of instruments of the Medici dynasty, the other of the objects subsequently gathered together by the Grand Dukes of Lorraine. Open daily 9.30am-6pm, Tues 9.30am-1pm. Closed 1 January, 25 December. Full ticket price € 9. www. museogalileo.it. Piazza dei Giudici, 1. T: 055 265311. Map G5

Museo Giardini di Boboli Stretching out behind Pitti Palace are the marvellous Boboli Gardens. It was the Medici who were first responsible for designing their layout, creating the model of the Italian-style garden that was to become an example for many European

What do those plates on the houses mean?

Florence has an intense relationship with its river: the Arno is part of the city’s history, its geography, its image and its very identity. Unfortunately, over the centuries, Florence has not only experienced its life-giving energy, but also its destructive power: the Arno, in fact, has burst its banks on a number of occasions, causing damage and fatalities. The plates that are to be found on numerous façades indicate the height reached by the river: these are the numbers and dates that Florence wanted to engrave on its walls so as not to forget. In particular, on 4th November 1966, Florence experienced the most serious flood in its recent history: it was a dramatic and frightening episode, and the inhabitants’ memory of it is vivid. Looking around you, you will find numerous plates that commemorate it, but you will have to raise your gaze, because the water reached heights of between 4 and the 5 metres. The official number of victims was thirty-five.

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EXCLUSIVE FLORENCE MAP

by Where® Italia Hand-drawn with Indian ink and watercolours, using the ‘bird’s eye view’ technique. Illustrator Mario Camerini is currently working on reproducing remarkable maps of Italian cities.

that housed his antiquarian gallery. There are over 2000 items there, including sculptures, paintings and objects of applied arts, from ancient art to that of the 18th century, with a major presence of works from the Middle Ages and the Renaissance.

Among its most significant works are St. Michael the Archangel by Antonio del Pollaiolo, the Madonna of the Ropes by Donatello and Guercino’s Atlas. Open Fri-Sat-Sun-Mon 11am-5pm. Closed on 1 January, Easter, 1 May, 15 August, 25 December. Full ticket price €6. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Via dei Renai, 37 (Ponte alle Grazie). T: 055 2342427.

Map G6

Museo Stibbert

THE MAP CAN BE PURCHASED IN TWO FORMATS. 140X100cm or 70X100cm. €100 + courier costs

info@whereitalia.com

(see entry). Open daily 8.15am-6.30pm (AprMay-Sept), 8.15am-4.30pm (Jan-Feb-Nov-Dec), 8.15am-9.30pm (Jun-Jul-Aug), 8.15am-5.30pm in March, 8.15am-6.30pm in October. Closed first and last Monday of the month. Closed 1 January, 25 December. Full ticket price: €10 (1 Mar-31 Oct)/€6 (1 Nov-28 Feb). www.uffizi.it. Piazza Pitti, 1. T: 055 23885. Map E6

Museo Nazionale del Bargello This imposing building, built between the 13th and 14th centuries as the seat of the Podestà and the Council of Justice, was a lowly prison between 1574 and 1858 (the “Bargello” was the head of the Grand Duke’s Guards). The Museum conserves a highly important collection of Renaissance sculptures, with masterpieces by Donatello, Luca della Robbia, Verrocchio, Michelangelo, Cellini and Giambologna, and prestigious collections of “lesser arts” (bronzes, Majolica ware, jewellery, ivories, medals, fabrics and antique weaponry).

Open daily 8.15am-1.50pm. From 9 April to 4 November 8.15am-5pm. Closed: 1st, 3rd, 5th Monday and 2nd, 4th Sunday of the month, 1 January, 1 May, 25 December. Museum full ticket price: €9. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/ musei/1/bargello. Via del Proconsolo, 4. T: 055 282902. Map G4

Museo Novecento The Museum is housed in the ancient Spedale di San Paolo (13th century), which was later the Scuole Leopoldine (18th century). Dedicated to the Italian art of the 20th century, it offers a selection of around 300 works representing that unrepeatable artistic season that saw Florence at the centre 72 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I J U LY 2018

of the international cultural scene. Structured in reverse chronological (from the 1990s to the early 20th century), thematic and interdisciplinary order, the immersive museum itinerary includes multimedia workstations, sound devices and video rooms along with the works themselves.

From 1 October to 31 March: open daily (except Thurs) 11am-7pm, Thurs 11am-2pm. From 1 April to 30 September: Mon-Tues-Wed-Sat-Sun 11am8pm, Thurs 11am-2pm, Fri 11am-11pm. Closed on 25 December. Full ticket price: €8.50. www. museonovecento.it. Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 10.

T: 055 286132/055 217158. Map D3

Museo Salvatore Ferragamo This is a museum devoted to the history of the Ferragamo company, to the life of its founder, Salvatore Ferragamo, and to his creations. Every year it organises exhibitions that investigate the relationship between fashion and art. The museum is situated in Palazzo Spini Feroni (1289) – which was purchased by Ferragamo in 1938 to make it the headquarters for his company and his workshop – and in its rooms it displays masterpieces of Florentine art from the 17th and 18th centuries.

Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Closed 1 January, 1 May, 15 August, 25 December. Full ticket price €6. www. ferragamo.com/museo. Palazzo Spini Feroni, Piazza Santa Trinita, 5/r. T: 055 3562-846/466. Map E4

One of the most fascinating and unusual places in Florence, it is a Neo-Gothic castle built by Frederick Stibbert (1838-1906) with exceptional collections, including weaponry, art objects and everyday items from European, Islamic and Far Eastern civilisations, particularly Japanese, portraits, but also great masterpieces by Botticelli, Crivelli, Bronzino, Suttermans and others. Eclectic taste characterises the sumptuous private apartments and the park, decorated with groves, pavilions, statues, artificial ruins and a small Egyptian temple. Open Mon-TuesWed 10am-2pm; Fri-Sat-Sun 10am-6pm. Closed on Thursdays, 1 January, Easter, 1 May, 15 August, 25 December. Full ticket price €8. Visits are run every hour for accompanied, groups of 25 people. www.museostibbert.it. Via Stibbert, 26.

T: 055 475520.

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Orsanmichele A unique, extraordinary monument, in which civil and religious functions are combined. Built as a granary, in the mid-14th century it was consecrated for Christian worship. On the ground floor the Church houses a grandiose marble tabernacle by Orcagna. The originals of the numerous sculptures (works by famous Florentine artists from the 15th and 16th centuries) that adorned the niches outside on the four sides of the imposing

Museo Stefano Bardini A connoisseur of art and an unbridled merchant in antiquities, Stefano Bardini (1836-1922) donated his private collection to Florence, where it was displayed in the Neo-Renaissance building (formerly the church and convent of San Gregorio della Pace)

The bronze statue of Perseus holding the head of Medusa (Benvenuto Cellini, 1545-1554) is located at the LOGGIA DEI LANZI in PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA.

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS stone cube are conserved in the museum on the first floor. On the second floor you can enjoy a fine panoramic view of Santa Maria del Fiore.

Classical music concerts are held here. Church (ground floor): open daily 10am-4.50pm. Museum of Sculptures (first and second floor): open Mon (10am-4.50pm) and Sat (10am-12.30). Free entry. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/musei/3/ orsanmichele. Via dell’Arte della Lana, 1. T: 055 2388606. Map F4

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Sunday 1 July: free admission to State Museums

Palazzo Medici Riccardi Four centuries of the history of art, architecture and collections in a single building, one of the most beautiful in Florence; built in the mid-15th century

by Michelozzo at the wishes of the Medici, it is the prototype of Renaissance civil architecture. Its jewel is the Magi Chapel, which you enter by climbing the elegant seventeenth-century staircase. Open daily 8.30am-7pm. Closed on Wednesdays. Via Cavour, 3. T: 055 2760340. Map F2

Porcelain Museum Housed at the top of the Boboli Gardens, in the 18th-century Palazzina del Cavaliere at the centre of the Rose Garden, are the collections of table porcelains of the ruling houses that succeeded each other at Pitti Palace, representing Italian and European production: from the Manifattura di Doccia, founded by the Ginori family, to the porcelains of Sèvres and Meissen. For address, opening and closing times, see Museo Giardini di Boboli. Map F7

Santa Maria del Fiore The monuments of the complex of Santa Maria del Fiore, the symbol in Florence throughout the world, are a single large open-air museum, a unique combination of art, faith and history located in the city’s main square, the religious, historical and artistic centre of Florence. The Duomo (Santa Maria del Fiore), Brunelleschi’s Dome, the Baptistery of Saint John, Giotto’s Bell tower (see all in "Attractions&Monuments"), together with the Crypt of Santa Reparata and the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo (see entry) are all visitable with a single ticket that can be purchased online (full price €18), with prior booking necessary for the Dome. The visiting times of the monuments are different and vary depending on the day. www. ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza del Duomo. T: 055 2302885. Map G2-G3

Villa Bardini and Gardens The most beautiful view of Florence earned it the name “Villa Belvedere”. Today Villa Bardini, a place rich in history, art and culture, has become an exhibition centre, which, along with temporary exhibitions, also hosts the Pietro Annigoni Museum (www.museoannigoni.it), dedicated to the great realist painter, and the Roberto Capucci Museum (www.fondazionerobertocapucci.com, currently being restructured). In addition, there is also a Michelin-starred restaurant inside it, La leggenda dei Frati (see "Dining"), and surrounding it are four hectares of woodland, an Italian-style garden and a kitchen garden and orchard. Open Tues-Sun 10am-7pm. Closed on Mondays. Full ticket price €8. Bardini Gardens: open daily 8.15am-4.30pm (Nov-Feb); 8.15am-5.30pm (Mar); 8.15am-6.30pm (Apr-May, Sept-Oct); 8.15am-7.30pm (Jun-Aug).

Closed first and last Monday of the month, 1 January, 1 May, 25 December. Full ticket price €10 (with Boboli Gardens and the Porcelain Museum). www.villabardini.it. Costa San Giorgio, 2 - Via dei Bardi, 1/r. T: 055 20066233. Map G6-G7

Botticelli Room, Galleria degli Uffizi

Every first Sunday of the month, more than 450 museums and archaeological sites across Italy open their doors to the public free of charge. Florence, like many other cities in the country, has joined this initiative promoted by the Ministry of Cultural Heritage by offering free admission to the museums listed below on Sunday 1 July.

GALLERIE DEGLI UFFIZI www.uffizi.it • Gli Uffizi piazzale degli Uffizi, 6 • Gabinetto dei Disegni e delle Stampe via della Ninna, 5 • Palazzo Pitti Museums (see page 69) Porcelain Museum, Tesoro dei Granduchi Giardino di Boboli, Galleria Palatina and Royal Apartments, Museo della Moda e del Costume, Galleria d’Arte Moderna piazza Pitti, 1 MUSEI DEL BARGELLO www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it • Museo delle Cappelle Medicee piazza di Madonna degli Aldobrandini, 6 • Museo Nazionale del Bargello via del Proconsolo, 4

• Museo di Casa Martelli via Ferdinando Zannetti, 8 • Museo di Palazzo Davanzati via Porta Rossa, 13 • Museo di Orsanmichele via Arte della Lana, 1 • Cenacolo di Andrea del Sarto a San Salvi www.polomusealetoscana.beniculturali.it via di San Salvi, 16 • Galleria dell’Accademia di Firenze www.galleriaaccademiafirenze.beniculturali.it via Ricasoli, 58-60 • Giardino della Villa di Castello www.polomusealetoscana.beniculturali.it via di Castello, 44 • MAF-Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Firenze museoarcheologiconazionaledifirenze. wordpress.com piazza S.S. Annunziata, 9 • Parco di Villa Il Ventaglio www.polomusealetoscana.beniculturali.it via Giovanni Aldini, 10/12.

• Villa Medicea della Petraia www.polomusealetoscana.beniculturali.it via della Petraia, 40.

• Villa Medicea di Cerreto Guidi and Museo Storico della Caccia e del Territorio www.polomusealetoscana.beniculturali.it via Ponti Medicei, 7 - Cerreto Guidi

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ESSENTIALS

The museum city Within its historic centre (declared a “UNESCO world heritage site” en bloc) Florence contains a unique concentration of historical and artistic attractions. Here is some guidance for you to enjoy it.

F

lorence’s labyrinthine plan, made up of alleyways and sidestreets, derives from its medieval origins.

Yet the city’s period of maximum splendour was undoubtedly the Renaissance, of which countless masterpieces remain.

With less than four hundred thousand inhabitants and covering an area of little more than a hundred square kilometres, Florence is practically impossible to tour by car, and in fact the centre is to a large extent prohibited to vehicle traffic.

We suggest, if possible, that you tour it on foot, to best enjoy its beauties, but you can also count on quite an efficient public transport network (which, however, is severely limited during the nighttime hours, so take care after midnight).

Taxis and bikes can reach all the strategic points, whereas private cars are usually only 74 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I J U LY 2018

allowed into the centre to load and unload your luggage at your hotel (but always ask your concierge, also so you can receive indications of where the car parks are located in the centre).

To find your way around the city, it is a good idea to keep well in mind that Florence is developed along the two banks of the River Arno. All the roads that run alongside the river, on both sides, are called “Lungarno” and it is only the second part of the name that changes. Lungarno degli Archibugieri, for example, is right in the centre: it is there that the Vasari Corridor passes and the Uffizi looks out over it.

The whole area on the other side of the river, to the south, is called “Oltrarno” by the Florentines. It was originally outside the historic centre, but today it contains important attractions, such as Pitti Palace, the Boboli

Gardens and Borgo Santo Spirito, the city’s most bohemian neighbourhood.

For decades the Florentine naming system has had a peculiarity that is gradually disappearing, but some traces of it can still be found: the civic numbers, in fact, were divided between “black”, which denoted he residences, and “red”, for businesses.

Some red numbers still remain, so bear that in mind.

Finally, some suggestion for improving your visit. The Tuscan regional capital is one of the cities with the highest tourist density on the entire planet: wherever you wish to visit, book in advance (or have them book for you at your hotel). You should also bear in mind that the serious overcrowding takes place around mid-morning, so if you are an early bird then that could give you a significant advantage. (E.B.)

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM

Emergency AMBULANCE  T: 118 POLICE  T: 055 3285 FIRE SERVICE  T: 115

European Emergency Number – T: 112 (available at the end of 2018) 112 is the unique European Emergency Number created to provide all European citizens with a single number: Ambulance (118), Fire Service (115), Police (113). Operators will also answer calls in English, French or German. If the caller does not know where he or she is, the operator will identify where the person making the call is physically located and will pass this information to the emergency services.

OPEN PHARMACIES Farmacia Comunale 13

(inside S. M. Novella Station. T: 055 216761) open daily 24/24; Farmacia all’Insegna del Moro (Piazza San Giovanni, 20/R. T: 055 211343) open daily 8am-midnight. www.farmaciediturno.net PASSPORTS Questura di Firenze, Via Zara, 2.

T: 055 49771.

Taxi In Italy taxis cannot be flagged down as they pass you along the street; they are stationed at special taxi parking stands in most of the major squares in any city or town and at the airport and can be requested by phone.

TAXI FIRENZE 4242.IT T: 055 4242 - www.4242.it TAXI FIRENZE 4390 T: 055 4390 - www.4390.it

www.apptaxi.it/firenze: available for iOS and Android, it has more than 4045 licensed taxi drivers.

Fixed taxi fares to airports From Amerigo Vespucci Airport to Florence (city centre): €22 (plus baggage supplements and extra fee for night or holiday travel).

From Florence (city centre) to Pisa: €140 / Bologna: €180 / Rome Fiumicino: €550 / Milan Linate: €550 / Milan Malpensa: €650 Fixed taxi fares to some destinations in Tuscany Pisa: €150 / Montecatini Terme: €90 / Siena: €120 / Livorno: €160 / Forte dei Marmi: €180 / Arezzo: €140 / Lucca: €140 / Empoli: €55 / Pistoia: €65 / San Gimignano: €100 / Volterra: €150 / Piombino: €300.

Fixed taxi fares to main Shopping Outlets The Mall: €65 / Barberino Designer Outlet McArthurGlen: €65

Trains The most important railway station is Santa Maria Novella (SMN), in the central Piazza della Stazione, and regional, interregional, high-speed and international trains arrive at and depart from there.

Florence offers fast-track access to major cities across Italy thanks to its high-speed trains: • Bologna: 35 min • Rome: 1 hour 20 min • Milan: 1 h 40 min • Venice: 2 hours 5 min • Naples: 2 hours 52 min • Turin: 2 hours 55 min TRENITALIA Railway Company - Info T: 892021. www.

trenitalia.com. WHERE TIP Train+bike is a viable formula for sustainable mobility. It is possible to put your bikes on Trenitalia regional trains.

ITALO - Info T: 060708. Italo Assistance T: 892020.

www.italotreno.it. WHERE TIP For travellers with Italo departing from Florence or arriving in

PUBLIC TRANSPORT MAP © ATAF Florence, it is possible to travel on all the means of transport (both trams and buses) with no added cost by taking advantage of your train ticket for 24 hours from the time of arrival and 24 hours before departure to visit the city using public transport on the network served by Ataf means of transport and the T1 tramway.

Airports AEROPORTO DI FIRENZE PERETOLA “AMERIGO VESPUCCI” FLR - (4 km from the centre of Florence). The airport, to the North-West of Florence, lies between the “Firenze Nord” exit from the freeway and Florence’s industrial area near Prato. Call centre T: 055 30615. www.aeroporto.firenze.it • Connections to the airport VolaInBus Shuttle Service (www.fsbusitalia.it) from S.M. Novella Station (Piazza della Stazione). Every 30 min, travel time approx. 30’ (5am-8pm) and approx. 1 h (10pm-midnight). Tickets can be purchased on board, at the BusItalia-Sita Nord ticket office near the S.M. Novella Station (Via S. Caterina da Siena) or at ATAF ticket offices (www. ataf.net). One-way ticket: €6 - round trip ticket: €10.

WHERE TIP A new line Tramway 2, connecting the airport with S.M. Novella Station, is activated in June 2018.

AEROPORTO DI PISA “GALILEO GALILEI” PSA - (80 km from the centre of Florence). Call centre T: 050 849300. www.pisa-airport.com • Connections to Florence-S.M. Novella Station and Aeroporto di Firenze Peretola Shuttle Services: 1) Terravision – One-way ticket: €4.99 - round trip ticket: €9.98. Every 30 or 60 min, travel time approx. 70’ (9am-midnight) and approx.

1 h (10pm-midnight). www.terravision.eu 2) Autostradale – T: 02 30089000. One-way ticket: €7.50 - round trip ticket: €13.50. Every 30 or 60 min, travel time approx. 70’ (9am-midnight) and approx.

1 h (10pm-midnight). www.autostradale.it

Getting around Florence ATAF  Azienda Trasporti dell’area Fiorentina/ Local Public Transport Company - www.ataf.net Infoline daily 6am-9pm. Green Line (Toll Free Number) T: 800 424500; from mobile (Toll Number): T: 199 104245.

ATAF Point-Customer Care Railway Station Firenze S.M. Novella – Offices no. 8 and no. 9.

Open Mon-Sat 6.45am-8pm.

Lost and Found on ATAF vehicles: Mon-Wed-Fri 9am-12.30pm; Tues-Thurs 2.30pm-4pm.

Via Veracini, 5 (int. 5). T: 055 334802.

Purchase your ticket before you get on the bus or the tram: the ticket must be validated using the machines on the bus.

Ordinary ticket (€1.20) valid for 90 minutes.

Can be used on buses, trams or trains.

Ticket 2x90’ (€2.40). Ticket 4x90’ (€4.70).

90 minutes onboard ticket (€2, no change given).

Daily ticket: 24-hour ticket (€5). 3-day ticket (€12).

7-day ticket (€18). Daily Family: one-day ticket for one family of 4 (€6). Nottetempo Ticket: one-day ticket from 10pm to 3am (€4, by phoning T: 055 5650555).

The T1 Tram connects S.M. Novella Station in Florence to Scandicci (www.gestramvia.com) Electric buses move around the historic centre and also reach the pedestrian areas. There are four lines: C1-C2-C3-D. WHERE TIP Route C1 is convenient for visiting the most important museums in Florence.

The entire historic centre of Florence (which is approximately the part located within the 19thcentury ring-roads or viali, which is a protected UNESCO heritage site) is a “Zona a Traffico Limitato” (ZTL), or restricted traffic zone. Bicycles, electric vehicles, motorcycles and scooters are allowed to enter. WHERE TIP Access is granted, at any time, to visitors who need to reach a hotel where they have a booking in their car.

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ESSENTIALS

Tourist Information INFOPOINT FIRENZE TURISMO  www.firenzeturismo.it 1. Train Station Infopoint > Piazza della Stazione, 4.

T: 055 212245. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm; Sun and holidays 9am-2pm. Multilingual tourist information and sales point for Firenzecard.

2. Tourist Information Office > Via C. Cavour, 1/R. T: 055 290832. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm. Free brochures and complaints service. Sales point for Firenzecard.

3. Bigallo Infopoint > Piazza San Giovanni, 1. T: 055 288496. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm; Sun and holidays 9am-2pm. Quick information service.

4. Airport Infopoint > Piazza San Giovanni, 1. T: 055 315874. Open daily 9am-7pm.

TOURIST CONTACT CENTRE  T: 055 000 Info about services for tourists, exhibitions, events, opening times of museums, how to move around the city. Available daily 9am-7pm in Italian, English, French, German and Spanish.

Via email (touristinfo@comune.fi.it) you can ask for information in any language, including Portuguese, Chinese, Japanese, Russian and Arabic (answers within 24 hours).

TOURIST CARDS Firenzecard is a special tourist card valid for 72 hours providing you with admission to 72 museums, villas and historical gardens in Florence

and the surrounding areas. It costs €72 and provides priority access to museums.

Firenzecard+ is the Plus version: you can travel by all the city’s buses for 3 days and you have access to many commercial partners with discounts and

UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM FLORENCE

offers. It costs just €5, but you can only buy it if you have the Firenze Card. www.firenzecard.it.

Special Tours CITY SIGHTSEEING® FIRENZE HOP ON HOP OFF

Hallmark red double-decker bus. 7 days a week, all year round. You can join the tour from any stop.

Tickets on board, in hotels and from authorised agencies or on the Internet. Wi-fi on board.

“Sightseeing Experience” Free App. 24-hour ticket > Prices: Adults €23 - reduced €12 – family €70.

48-hour ticket > Prices: Adults €28 - reduced €14 – family 84€.

72-hour ticket > Prices: Adults €33 - reduced €17.

The public transport ticket is included in your ticket. 2 lines, over 40 stops. Commentary in 8 languages.

Main departures > A Line: S.M. Novella Station.

B Line: Piazzale Michelangelo.

Combo tickets for top Florence attractions can be purchased at special prices. www.city-sightseeing.it/it/firenze SEGWAY  The trendiest, most environmentally

friendly way to visit the city. Rental fare: 1 hour: €19. www.segwayfirenze.it LOOKALS  The new platform where travellers

can choose from the best selection of tours and activities in Italy created by locals and tour guides, who can promote and sell their own itineraries, getting in touch with thousands of travellers from all over the world. www.lookals.com.

Bike Sharing MOBIKE – This ’free floating’ bike-sharing system allows you to book a bike via the free Mobike App (App Store or Google Play), identify the position of the bike nearest to you and then leave it in any authorised parking area in the city or in a bike rack. Cost: €1 deposit, and €0.30 for every 30 minutes. For more information, visit www.mobike.com Useful information about cycling maps on www.becycle.comune.fi.it.

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Chiesa Santa Maria Maddalena dei Pazzi

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Badia Fiorentina

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Università degli Studi di Firenze

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Museo Leonardo da Vinci

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Fiesole 8km

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Mugello 30km

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Basilica di San Lorenzo

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Palazzo Medici Riccardi

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Galleria dell’Accademia

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Chiesa La SS. Annunziata di Firenze

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[ O N LY AT P R E M I E R E H O T E L S ]

Where Florence Magazine 5 STAR Belmond Villa San Michele – Via Doccia, 4 Fiesole • Off Map Four Seasons Hotel Firenze – Borgo Pinti, 99 • L1 Golden Tower – Piazza degli Strozzi, 11/r • Map E4 Helvetia & Bristol Firenze – Via dei Pescioni, 2 • Map E3 Hotel Regency Firenze – Piazza M. D’Azeglio, 3 • Map L1 Hotel Savoy – Piazza della Repubblica, 7 • Map F3 Il Salviatino – Via del Salviatino, 21 (Fiesole) • Off Map Lungarno – Borgo San Jacopo, 14 • Map F5 Montebello Splendid – Via G. Garibaldi, 14 • Map B1 NH Collection Firenze Porta Rossa – Via Porta Rossa, 19 • Map E4 Palazzo Vecchietti – Via degli Strozzi, 4 • Map E3 Portrait Firenze – Lungarno degli Acciaiuoli, 4 • Map F4 Relais Santa Croce – Via Ghibellina , 87 • Map H4 Sina Villa Medici – Via Il Prato, 42 • Map B1 The St. Regis Florence – Piazza Ognissanti, 1 • Map C31 The Westin Excelsior, Florence – Piazza Ognissanti, 3 • Map C3 Villa Cora – Viale Machiavelli, 18 • Off Map Villa La Vedetta – Viale Michelangiolo, 78 • Off Map Ville sull’Arno – Lungarno Cristoforo Colombo, 1/3/5 • Off Map Villa Tolomei Hotel & Resort – Via di Santa Maria a Marignolle, 10 • Off Map 4 STAR Adler Cavalieri – Via della Scala, 40 • Map C1 Continentale – Vicolo dell’Oro, 6/r • Map F4 Dei Cavalieri Relais Monna Lisa – Borgo Pinti, 27 • Map H2 Executive Firenze – Via Curtatone, 5 • Map B2 Gallery Hotel Art – Vicolo dell’Oro, 5 • Map F4 Ginori al Duomo – Via de’ Ginori, 22/24/26 • Map F1 Glance Hotel In Florence – Via Nazionale, 23 • Map E1 Grand Hotel Adriatico – Via Maso Finiguerra, 9 • Map C2 Grand Hotel Minerva (S) – Piazza di Santa Maria Novella, 16 • Map D2 Horto Convento Firenze – Viale L. Ariosto, 13 • Map B4 Hotel Cellai – Via 27 Aprile 14, 52/r • Off Map Hotel Londra – Via Jacopo da Diacceto 16/20 • Map C1 Mercure Firenze Centro – Via Nazionale, 21-23/r • Map E1 Messori Suites – Via A. Giacomini, 25 • Off Map NH Anglo American – Via G. Garibaldi, 9 • Map B2 NH Firenze – Piazza V. Veneto, 4 • Map A1 Palazzo Gaddi (S) – Via del Giglio, 11 • Map E2 Palazzo Ognissanti Hotel – Via Maso Finiguerra, 12/r • Map C2 Palazzo dal Borgo – Via Della Scala, 6 • Map D2 Pierre – Via de’ Lamberti, 5 • Map F4 Pontevecchio Suites & SPA – Via De’ Belfredelli, 9 • Map E5 Roma –Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 8 • Map E3 San Firenze Suites e SPA – Piazza di S. Firenze, 3 • Map G4 San Gallo Palace – Via Lorenzo Il Magnifico, 2 • Off Map

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