Where Magazine London Apr 2019 by Morris Media Network

GUIDE TO LONDON Â®

APRIL 2019

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LONDON ODYSSEY How the city inspired Stanley Kubrick

GREAT BRITISH BIRTHDAYS

PROMOTION

From the Queen to Shakespeare

C U LT U R E

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MUSICAL

E N T E R TA I N M E N T

SHOPPING

Celebrate 20 years of Mamma Mia! How the West End show became a worldwide w success

DINING

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COVER: MAMMA MIA! © BRINKHOFF-MOEGENBURG. THIS PAGE: DALE CHIHULY’S SUMMER SUN, 2010 © CHIHULY STUDIO; THE SCREAM BY EDVARD MUNCH © PRIVATE COLLECTION, NORWAY/PHOTO BY THOMAS WIDERBERG; TEAPOT COURTESY OF LONDON BEATLES STORE; KELSEY GRAMMER COURTESY OF LONDON COLISEUM

CONTENTS APRIL

FEATURES

LISTINGS

6 WHERE NOW The biggest festivals and events, from Underbelly to Michelle Obama at The O2.

22 SIGHTSEEING Are you a fan of Super Mario? Do you know how to compete at Tetris? If you’re an avid gamer, visit the London Games Festival.

72 NIGHTLIFE With the weather warming up, we visit the new rooftop bar, Savage Garden, where you can enjoy 360-degree views.

44 MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Mice, foxes and pigeons – find out more about the animals of the capital in the exhibition, Beasts of London.

76 SPAS & SALONS As celebrities popularise intravenous therapy – vitamin drips – we see how this LA trend has made its way to London.

52 ENTERTAINMENT Discover how you can see stars on stage, from Kelsey Grammer to Sally Field.

78 ESSENTIALS London’s experienced hotel concierges share their useful tips on how to make the most of your time here.

10 MAMMA MIA! We talk to producer Judy Craymer about how her ABBA show went on to become one of the West End’s longest-running musicals. 14 BEHIND THE LENS Discover why American director Stanley Kubrick chose to shoot many of his films in Britain. 18 A VERY BRITISH AFFAIR A look at our traditions, from celebrating St George’s Day to marking Shakespeare’s birthday. 20 FROM LONDON WITH LOVE Easter-inspired gifts, including chocolate eggs. 82 MY PERFECT DAY The Harlem Globetrotters’ London hotspots.

60 SHOPPING Head to newly opened Coal Drops Yard, plus where to pick up Beatles-inspired souvenirs. 64 DINING Visit the modern British restaurant Hicce in King’s Cross and fall in love with its wood-fired wonders.

80 MAP A useful map of central London to help you on your travels. See more of London at www.wheretraveler.com/london

TA L K I N G T O T H E W O R L D ’ S V I S I T O R S We are the world’s largest publisher of maps and magazines for visitors. Today, Where can be found on hotel concierges’ desks in more than 80 destinations around the globe.

In this city, we also produce IN London – a portfolio of luxury magazines in Arabic, Chinese and English – and London Planner, the official monthly guide to the capital from VisitBritain and the Mayor’s promotional company, London & Partners.

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE Where London has direct access to head concierges and their teams across London’s four- and five-star hotels, and is considered to be the ‘concierge’s bible’

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M A G A Z I N E

IN OVER 80 CITIES: INFLUENCING AND INSPIRING VISITORS SINCE 1936

EDITORIAL

MVP I OPERATIONS

CONTENT DIRECTOR Chris Johnson GROUP EDITOR Kohinoor Sahota GROUP DEPUTY EDITOR Sarah Riches ASSOCIATE AND DIGITAL EDITOR Neil Simpson SUB EDITOR Anna Frame CONTRIBUTORS Jo Caird, Kathryn Conway, Bethan Kapur, Emma Levine, Dominic Wells GROUP ART DIRECTOR Tim Benton SENIOR DESIGNER Suzette Scoble DESIGNER Ella-Louisa Romain PICTURE EDITOR Tamsan Barratt

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MVP I EXECUTIVE PRESIDENT Donna W Kessler MANAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE Chris Manning

MVP I CREATIVE CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER Haines Wilkerson DESIGN DIRECTOR Jane Frey CREATIVE COORDINATOR Beverly Mandelblatt Published by the Visitor Publications division of Morris Communications Company, LLC. 725 Broad St, Augusta, GA 30901

MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS CHAIRMAN William S Morris III PRESIDENT & CEO William S Morris IV

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Vol. No. 45 Issue No.4 ISSN 0951 323X

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STEWART DYMOCK Taking my five-year-old daughter to see The Lion King was magical. We had to prise her from the seat when the show ended as she didn’t want to leave the theatre!

Officially endorsed by the Society of the Golden Keys of GB and the Commonwealth

NEIL SIMPSON I was amazed by the production values on Disney’s Aladdin – it’s the most incredible spectacle. Almost everyone knows the songs, which are gold.

SARAH RICHES The Phantom of the Opera has powerful voices, a great plot and a stunning set, while Wicked’s Defying Gravity scene is guaranteed to leave you buzzing!

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Contact: Where Magazine Subscriptions. T: 020-7611 7882. Email: subscriptions@morriseurope.com. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited. Where® is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications. In London, Where® Magazine is pleased to be a member of The Society of the Golden Keys and London & Partners/Published by Morris Visitor Publications, a subsidiary of Morris Communications Company, LCC, 727 Broad St, Augusta, GA 20901. Where® Magazine and the where® logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications. The papers used for this magazine are produced from certified sustainable sources by mills with recognised environmental accreditation.

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Our te favouri S

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WELCOME KOHINOOR SAHOTA Group Editor Where London

Twitter: @WhereLondon Facebook: Where London Instagram: wherelondon

April is one of the best months to visit London – there are blockbuster exhibitions, events that make us proud to be British and the weather, which can often be a washout, suddenly springs into action. We would like to think that London is the new Hollywood. We have Pinewood Studios, where great movies from Harry Potter to James Bond were filmed. So, it’s no surprise to discover that the revered director Stanley Kubrick chose to shoot some of his greatest work here. As The Design Museum puts on a major retrospective, find out more about his relationship with Britain (p. 14). If you want to feel like a local, you are spoilt for choice. Head to one of these quintessential British events, from the St George’s Day celebrations to the Oxford and Cambridge Boat Race (p. 18), to learn about our traditions. I love musicals and am lucky to live in a city that gave birth to some of the greatest shows on earth, such as The Phantom of the Opera and Les Misérables. There are so many world-class productions to choose from – as Mamma Mia! marks 20 years in the West End and becomes one of its longest-running shows, we talk to producer Judy Craymer about how she took the show from stage to screen (p. 10). I have one of the best jobs in the world. There are times when I get to meet my heroes and times when I just get to have a real laugh. I interviewed two members of The Harlem Globetrotters – Chris ‘Animal’ Hyche and Turbo – about their upcoming tour and learnt some new tricks (p. 82). Anyone know how to spin a basketball on their finger? Do get in touch with us on social media – let us know what you make of the magazine and what you’re doing on your trip!

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE

Above: Meeting The Harlem Globetrotters Below: Pearly Kings and Queens celebrate St George’s Day

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Spring is here so get into the great outdoors – cheer on the Marathon runners, head to the Underbelly Festival and enjoy a cocktail or two

4-6 APR

COCKTAILS IN THE CITY

14 APR

MICHELLE OBAMA

When Michelle Obama came to London to promote her book Becoming at the Royal Festival Hall, the event proved to be so popular that there were more than 40,000 people in the online ticket queue. America’s former First Lady returns to London with Becoming: An Intimate Conversation, but this time at a bigger venue: The O2. Usually reserved for rock stars, this demonstrates that Obama has the fans to fill up the arena and is a real American idol. www.theo2.co.uk

TEA DAY 13-14 NATIONAL We Brits love a good cup of tea. APR If you want to understand what all the fuss is about, celebrate National Tea Day at FesTeaVal, at Tobacco Dock in Wapping. Part food festival, part cultural and lifestyle show, the UK’s biggest tea festival includes comedy, tea pairings and a boutique by creative biscuit company Biscuiteers. www.nationalteaday.co.uk

COCKTAILS AND TEA © ISTOCK; MICHELLE OBAMA COURTESY OF THE O2; MARATHON © VIRGIN MONEY LONDON MARATHON/BOB MARTIN; YUMMY COURTESY OF UNDERBELLY FESTIVAL

If you want to be shaken and stirred, join the Cocktails in the City festival, where the world’s greatest mixologists take over The Vaults in Waterloo with tasting experiences, secret speakeasies, sensory cocktails and bar battles. Venues taking part include Cahoots, Ella Canta, Mr Fogg’s and Bourne & Hollingsworth, while sustenance is on hand from street food stalls. If you can’t make up your mind about which bar to visit, this might be just the solution. www.cocktailsinthecity.com

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28 APR

LONDON MARATHON

Where can you spot RoboCop, a giant sunflower and world-famous sports stars running side by side? Answer: at the London Marathon. With more than 40,000 runners taking part, this is one of the world’s most spectacular races, with millions of pounds being raised for charity each year. Watch as two legends compete: Kenya’s world record holder and defending champ Eliud Kipchoge, versus Britain’s Sir Mo Farah, who finished third last year. www.virginmoneylondonmarathon.com

17 MAR

FROM

Underbelly Festival

5 APR Now in its 11th year, the

Underbelly Festival is returning to the South Bank with circus, comedy, magic and burlesque. Watch acrobatics by Gravity & Other Myths; the London premiere of the Little Death Club cabaret and Yummy (left), a drag show with x-rated humour. You can also belt out tunes with Massaoke, dance to The Silent Disco Show and, for the first time, listen to live podcasts which include an Irish sketch comedy and a sitcom about rival funeral directors. Children are also catered for, with readings of kids’ favourite The Gruffalo and a fun singalong. www.underbellyfestival.com www.wheretraveler.com 7

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APRIL

18 APR

SONY WORLD PHOTOGRAPHY AWARDS

Every year, the World Photography Organisation invites practitioners from all over the world to enter the Sony World Photography Awards. They cover a wide range of subjects and categories include ‘youth’, ‘student’ and ‘professional’. The images, including Remy Whiting’s Night Swim (above), are on show at Somerset House. www.worldphoto.org

19 APR

THE PASSION OF JESUS

Head to Trafalgar Square on Good Friday to watch the Biblical story of the crucifixion brought to life in The Passion of Jesus. More than 100 actors – as well as horses, donkeys and doves – gather together to retell one of the most revered stories of all time. Each performance is 90 minutes and they start at noon and 3.15pm. www.visitlondon.com

It’s the final few days of The Sun exhibition at the family-friendly Science Museum Try to bag a ticket for Hamilton, the award-winning hip-hop musical See where east really does meet west, at the Royal Observatory in Greenwch Get an insight into the human body with the jaw-dropping figures at Body Worlds Relive the glory of the Six Nations Championship at the World Rugby Museum Head to The O2 to see the evergreen UB40 in concert on their 40th anniversary tour Find a viewing spot on the river to watch the Oxford and Cambridge Boat Race Visit the new Gringotts Wizarding Bank on the Making of Harry Potter tour See a new exhibition dedicated to Mary Quant at the Victoria and Albert Museum Shed a tear for the star-crossed lovers Romeo and Juliet at the Royal Opera House Pray for a sunny day, then whizz to the top of The Shard for astounding views Gaze at Princess Eugenie’s wedding dress at Windsor Castle’s special exhibition Watch the outstanding Dame Maggie Smith in the new play, A German Life Take the family to the mesmerising musical Aladdin – with a ‘real’ magic carpet Explore digital worlds at The British Library’s new exhibition, Imaginary Cities Hop on a Thamesjet for a thrilling sightseeing speedboat ride on the river Head to Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club to see the English blues maestro, John Mayall See decades of Don McCullin’s powerful war photographs at Tate Britain Get into the spirit of Easter with Messiah on Good Friday at the Royal Albert Hall Tour the hallowed Houses of Parliament to admire historic art and architecture Sing along to ABBA’s hits at the musical Mamma Mia! , now celebrating 20 years Go on an egg hunt with the kids at The Royal Mews’ Easter Extravaganza Be dazzled by traditional Irish dance at London Palladium’s Heartbeat of Home Look ahead to the cricket season and the ICC World Cup with a tour of Kia Oval Meet the Queen, Usain Bolt and Star Wars characters at Madame Tussauds Spot Fabergé eggs at The Queen’s Gallery’s Russia exhibition, ending soon Head to the Piccadilly Theatre’s powerful play The Curious Incident, ending today Sit back and enjoy a free organ recital at the hallowed Westminster Abbey Test your nerve by looking down as you walk over Tower Bridge’s glass floor See astounding wildlife photographs at the Natural History Museum’s exhibition

Search for more ideas at wheretraveler.com

REMY WHITING’S NIGHT SWIM © REMY WHITING; THE PASSION OF JESUS COURTESY OF THE WINTERSHALL SOCIETY

FROM

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★★★★★

‘IT IS OUT OF THIS WORLD, IT’S MAGIC, AND IT’S A HIT’ THE TIMES

CHECK DAILY FOR LATE-RELEASE TICKETS

PALACE THEATRE, LONDON www.HarryPotterThePlay.com TM & © HPTP. Harry Potter

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Judy Craymer

HERE WE GO

AGAIN!

t’s 20 years since MAMMA MIA!, the jukebox musical based on the songs of ABBA, first opened in the West End, and producer Judy Craymer can’t quite believe how quickly the time has passed. For Craymer, it feels like yesterday that she was trying to persuade composers Benny Andersson and Björn Ulvaeus to let her use their songs on stage, yet today the trio have seen 50 productions of MAMMA MIA! tour to 440 cities around the world, including a 14-year run on Broadway. TAKE A CHANCE ON JUDY The London production, which celebrates its 20th birthday on 6 April, is one of the longestrunning shows in the history of the West End, and has played to nearly nine million people.

It was by no means certain that Craymer would succeed in her ambition to make a musical from ABBA’s songs. For a long time, Andersson and Ulvaeus ‘weren’t particularly interested’ in her proposal, the producer recalls with a laugh. ‘They still didn’t realise at that time that ABBA was going to transcend and be part of our lives many generations on. Now, of course, they have grandchildren who love their songs, so finally they understand.’ Craymer had met the songwriters while working on the musical Chess in the 1980s, when she was an assistant to lyricist Tim Rice. ‘That’s what gave me a fascination into the ABBA songs, because I’d met the guys who wrote them. They weren’t just something I’d danced to as a teenager,’ she says.

WHAT’S THE NAME OF THE GAME? Years spent working in musical theatre, including in the stage management team of the London production of the Andrew Lloyd Webber musical, Cats, had given Craymer a good eye for what worked. And she was sure that Andersson and Ulvaeus’s songs had huge potential. She recalls: ‘I wanted to create a story using their songs because their songs spoke to me and I loved all of them. I just thought these songs could be used to tell a story. But what was that story?’ Not the story of ABBA, who disbanded in 1982 after 10 chart-topping but emotionally fraught years together, that was for sure. Andersson and Ulvaeus ‘would never have allowed that,’ Craymer recalls. The musical she had in mind had to be celebratory – ‘it

JUDY CRAYMER © TREVOR LEIGHTON; MAMMA MIA! IMAGES © BRINKHOFF-MOEGENBURG

Judy Craymer took a chance on turning ABBA’s hit songs into a musical that has stood the test of time, says Jo Caird

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MAMMA MIA! | WHERE NOW

was going to be weddings or holidays, it couldn’t be a dark story’ – and she knew that The Winner Takes It All would be ‘the centrepiece of a woman’s story’. Craymer approached playwright Catherine Johnson, who came up with the central plotline of the show, a comedy intrigue based around a daughter trying to find out which of her mother’s three former lovers is her biological father. Craymer took the idea to Andersson and Ulvaeus and the pair gave it their blessing. They weren’t the only people Craymer needed to persuade about the project. Jukebox musicals – those based around a collection of existing hit songs rather than original music – are common these days. When Craymer was trying to get MAMMA MIA! w w w.wh e ret r ave l e r. com 11

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off the ground, however, people were less aware of the genre. The idea of bringing together ABBA hits such as Gimme! Gimme! Gimme! (A Man After Midnight), Dancing Queen and Money, Money, Money in a theatre show was a much harder sell. How did the producer achieve her ambition to get the project made? ‘A lot of tenacity,’ she says. The project moved quickly after that, which was fortunate because the producer had by this time taken the bold step of selling her London flat so she could give up her job as a film and television producer to dedicate herself to the musical full-time. ‘I didn’t have any doubts,’ she says, adding with a chuckle, ‘Sadly I didn’t have enough to invest in it!’ DANCING QUEENS Johnson wrote the script and Phyllida Lloyd – known primarily for her work as a director of opera and ‘serious’ theatre at the time – came on board to direct. ‘It was one of the first projects led by women. There was no championing of that, it just seemed a natural way of working,’ says Craymer. All-female teams are increasingly common these days – Lloyd herself went on to direct highly acclaimed all-female versions of Shakespeare’s Julius Caesar, Henry IV and The Tempest at the Donmar Warehouse, a theatre until recently run by two women – but at the time it was rare to find a dynamic at work.

As far as Craymer is concerned, having three women at the helm was crucial when it came to shaping the strong female-centred story at the heart of MAMMA MIA!. ‘It’s a show that has strong women’s roles,’ she says, from Donna, a single mother who made a success of raising her child with no support at all; to her daughter Sophie, who ingeniously designs a plan to find out who her biological father is; to Donna’s best friends Tanya and Rosie, independent women who make it clear that they don’t need a man to complete them. With such a range of characters to relate to, ‘people really do see a little bit of themselves on the stage, and at all different ages.’ Working with Johnson and Lloyd wasn’t just professionally fulfilling. It was also ‘the start of a big friendship,’ says Craymer. What began as a one-off musical theatre project soon turned into a global affair, with a production in

Toronto leading to a US tour, followed by a Broadway run. There’s a German version of the show currently touring; a 20th-anniversary UK and international tour will be kicking off in Edinburgh in September; and a new Danish production launches next year. And, of course, the two films based on the show – 2008’s MAMMA MIA! The Movie and its 2018 sequel MAMMA MIA! Here We Go Again – have been enormous successes. Craymer couldn’t have predicted the long-term success of her passion project but she’s not exactly surprised that it’s done so well: ‘When the show opened, it was seen that people who loved ABBA would go, but now we have different generations – eight year olds love it! People have two hours of fantastic escape.’ Novello Theatre, Aldwych, WC2B 4LD. T: 0844-482 5115. www.mammamia.com

What began as a one-off musical theatre project turned into a global affair

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BEHIND As a new exhibition about Stanley Kubrick opens at The Design Museum, Dominic Wells discovers the visionary film director’s links with London

t Katharine Docks, just a stone’s throw from Tower Bridge, houses a little-known piece of movie history. Look up at the building beside the central rotunda and you’ll see a huge slab of white acrylic, embossed with a crown. The crown was added for the Queen’s Silver Jubilee in 1977, when the monument was installed, but the original two-tonne block was built for Stanley Kubrick’s science-fiction masterpiece, 2001: A Space Odyssey. It was never used in the film – in the end, Kubrick chose a more mysterious and ominous black for his monolith. But the fact that it was made and camera-tested at full size, rather than being rejected at model stage, is testament to the obsessive quest for perfectionism that underpins all of his films.

ACROSS THE POND Kubrick first moved to England to film his dark comedy-drama Lolita (1962), based on the controversial book by Vladimir Nabokov, but he never returned to his native US. ‘It’s very pleasant, very peaceful, very civilised here,’ Kubrick told The New York Times in 1972. ‘London is, in the best sense, the way New York must have been in about 1910.’ In 1965 he bought a house at Abbots Mead Borehamwood, near Elstree Film Studios in Hertfordshire. It was turned into a guest house, though it is back in private hands and last year Kubrick’s association with the building was recognised with a Blue Plaque. In 1978 he upgraded to Childwickbury Manor, a stately home in Hertfordshire with 12 reception rooms, 18 bedrooms and 11 staff bedrooms.

It’s here that he acquired a reputation for being a recluse. He didn’t like meeting new people or having his routine disrupted: Emilio D’Alessandro, his long-time assistant, recalls that Kubrick made him wear shirts with double pockets, with a pen always on the same side. So little was the director seen out in public that, in a bizarre twist to the Kubrick story, a con man successfully impersonated him for years in order to get the best tables in London restaurants. But if Kubrick rarely ventured into London, he made London come to him. The author Jon Ronson, one of the first people granted access to Kubrick’s massive but methodically filed archives after his death, recalled his shock at seeing boxes and boxes of photographs just of London front doors – including from Ronson’s own street. Kubrick’s assistants had taken them so the director could pick the right one for a single brief scene in Eyes Wide Shut.

BACK IN TIME ‘It is amazing,’ says Adrienne Groen, assistant curator of Stanley Kubrick: The Exhibition at The Design Museum, ‘seeing all the photos of doors and gates that were shot for Kubrick. It’s like looking into a time capsule of London in the mid-‘90s.’ This touring exhibition started in Frankfurt in 2004 and has visited 16 cities across the world – but never Kubrick’s adopted home city. Now The Design Museum is taking advantage of the connection: Groen says they are talking to some of the British designers who worked on Kubrick’s films to secure sketches and other material that have never been seen in public. Groen says: ‘The Kubrick archives are now on our doorstep [at the University of the Arts in south London], so I’ve been there a few times to go through all the boxes and dig out more material.’ The exhibition covers all 13 of Kubrick’s films, as well as some that got away – he produced thousands of index cards in the 1960s for a film about Napoleon, which Steven Spielberg, a huge admirer of Kubrick’s work, plans to resurrect. Highlights include costumes, a model of the spaceship from 2001, and Kubrick’s cameras, such as the lenses he used in his 1975 drama, Barry Lyndon, to film in natural candlelight – they were designed for NASA to shoot the dark side of the moon. ‘Kubrick had such an eye for detail,’ says Groen. ‘For Barry Lyndon, every piece of clothing is perfect. And 2001 is a brilliant source of design stories: Kubrick worked with big companies such as Parker Pen, Hilton and IBM, and they all come with their design stories, too.’

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‘It’s like looking into a time capsule of London’ Patrick Magee in Barry Lyndon

Stanley Kubrick and Jack Nicholson on the set of The Shining

in Pinewood Studios and London over a record-breaking 15 months: Worship Street and Hatton Garden stand in for Greenwich Village, while the toy shop in which Tom Cruise and Nicole Kidman’s characters reconcile is Hamleys. A Clockwork Orange (1971) is the richest source of London locations. The brutalist architecture chosen for the dystopian world of the future was newly built then: Thamesmead is where the anti-hero Alex’s home was filmed; the underpass where Alex and his ‘droogs’ mercilessly commit crimes is beneath Wandsworth roundabout; and you

can stroll in Alex’s footsteps along the Chelsea Embankment from Albert Bridge. Most extraordinary is Nettlefold Hall in West Norwood, where Alex is ‘reprogrammed’ by being subjected to brainwashing footage. It’s now a Picturehouse cinema with a few visual nods to this cinematic claim to fame. Stanley Kubrick: The Exhibition is at The Design Museum from 26 Apr. www.designmuseum.org. Kubrick: A Definitive Film Season, BFI Southbank, Apr-May. www.bfi.org.uk

ALL IMAGES © WARNER BROS. ENTERTAINMENT INC COURTESY OF THE DESIGN MUSEUM

LONDON LOCATIONS The BFI Southbank is mounting a tie-in retrospective of Kubrick’s films alongside a season of films inspired by his work. Kubrick fans will find slim pickings in terms of London locations to visit. Kubrick mostly preferred to shoot on elaborate sets created at Elstree and Shepperton Film Studios. Notable exceptions include Beckton Gas Works in east London, where Kubrick recreated Vietnam for Full Metal Jacket (1987) by importing 200 palm trees; and his erotic mystery Eyes Wide Shut (1999) which, though set in New York, was filmed

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NEW TICKETS RELEASED

FOR FULL TICKET INFO VISIT HAMILTONMUSICAL.COM VICTORIA PALACE THEATRE A DELFONT MACKINTOSH THEATRE

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BRITISH AFFAIR FEAST OF ST GEORGE © CAROLINE TEO/GREATER LONDON AUTHORITY; BOAT RACE © GETTY; ALL OTHER IMAGES © ISTOCK

From gun salutes to boat races, we Brits know how to mark an occasion, says Kathryn Conway

ondoners, and British people in general, love traditions and April is packed with dates that are ripe for observance. But, if you’ve questioned the ins and outs of The Boat Race or why the Queen has two birthdays, read on.

BY GEORGE! The image familiar to most Brits when recalling St George, the patron saint of England, is of a knight on horseback slaying a dragon. It’s a myth perpetuated by artists, and depictions can be found at The National Gallery, in two paintings by Paolo Uccello and Jacopo Tintoretto, and in the form of a statue near Lord’s cricket ground. St George gave rise to the English flag with its red cross on a white background, but it is thought that the saint was neither English nor a knight. It is believed he was born in Turkey and became a solider, and St George’s Day (23 Apr) is supposedly the day of his martyrdom. After England’s victory at the Battle of Agincourt in 1415, St George’s Day became a feast day and was celebrated as such for more than a century. The tradition waned, but in 2010 the Feast of St George was revived when the City of London hosted a pageant dedicated to the patron saint. The festivities have since moved to Trafalgar Square (20 Apr), where you can enjoy music and food and see Pearly Kings and Queens, who raise money for charity (noon-6pm).

CELEBRATING THE BARD Giving someone ‘short shrift’ or declaring that ‘the world is my oyster’ is only possible because of William Shakespeare. Words and phrases found in his plays have seeped into our everyday language and, 455 years on from his birth, the playwright continues to inspire with his canon of works. 23 April is thought to be the date of the Bard’s birth and death, anniversaries that are honoured with numerous events in his home town of Stratfordupon-Avon (27 Apr). He spent a portion of his life in London, and the capital’s links with the wordsmith are also celebrated this month.

Shakespeare’s Globe, a reconstruction of the Elizabethan Globe Theatre, always kicks off its summer season on 23 April and is doing so this year with a run of Henry IV Part 1. Henry IV Part 2 opens on 25 April. Birthday celebrations consist of a walk through Shakespeare’s London, where a company of 22 actors led by Mark Rylance enacts speeches on the street. Sweet Love Remember’d (20-21 Apr) departs from Westminster Abbey and Shoreditch. The Bard is honoured in an unseated production at Westminster Abbey (25-27 Apr), where Mark Rylance and his band of actors perform as the audience roams the abbey.

A Pearly King

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BRITISH TRADITIONS | WHERE NOW

Feast of St George The Queen and Prince Philip

HAPPY BIRTHDAY, MA’AM! You’d be forgiven for thinking that the grounds for the Queen famously celebrating two birthdays is because she is, well, rather important. However, the reason why our monarch celebrates her actual birthday in April and an official birthday in June is mundane – it’s all thanks to the British weather. It was during the reign of George II in 1748 that the sovereign’s official birthday celebrations moved to summer. George II was born in November, not a month conducive to outdoor public celebrations, and

AN OAR-SOME DISPLAY

Shakespeare’s Globe

It’s difficult to believe that a challenge between two school friends could cement a 190-year sporting rivalry. But each year, students from two of the world’s most prestigious academic institutions – Oxford and Cambridge Universities – take to the Thames to row a gruelling 6.8km course between Putney and Chiswick bridges. About as far from splashing about on the river as you can imagine, The Boat Race (7 Apr) sees four groups of rowers – two teams of men and two teams of women – line up to take on the ultimate amateur rowing challenge. Reserve crews from each university battle it out ahead of the main ‘Blues’ boats (a blue is the highest sporting honour awarded by the universities). The women’s race starts at 2.15pm, with the men racing an hour later at 3.15pm.

it was felt that a birthday military parade in the warmer months would be more appealing. The government saw fit to combine the monarch’s official birthday bash with the military pageantry of Trooping the Colour, a tradition that still exists today (8 Jun). The Queen celebrates her 93rd birthday privately on 21 April, where we imagine that a glass of Dubonnet and gin, one of her favourite tipples, will be raised. The day is marked with a 41-gun salute fired in Hyde Park at noon, and a 62-gun salute at the Tower of London at 1pm (both 21 Apr).

Oxford and Cambridge Boat Race

Having enjoyed a clean sweep of wins in 2018, Cambridge lead the men’s and the women’s headto-head records, by 83 races to 80 and 43 to 30 respectively. The only race to be declared a dead heat occurred in 1877, when umpire ‘Honest’ John Phelps caused controversy by saying that his view of the finish had been obscured.

The debacle led to markers being implemented at the start and finish lines, and the University Boat Race Stones are still in situ today. The bridges on the course provide vantage points on race day, but you could also head to Bishop’s Park in Fulham where big screens display all the action while bars and street food are on hand to keep you sated.

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‘Gaming fans dress up as their favourite characters’

re you reading this while trying to stop your child/inner child from fighting endless battles on Fortnite? Then you know that computer games are big business. London’s enterprising minds know it too and the London Games Festival (2-14 Apr) proves how seriously the city takes playtime.

This annual festival around London was reportedly enjoyed by more than 65,000 people in 2018. This year is set to be even bigger, with more than 400 computer games to try throughout the festival. Many of those games are set to light up screens in Somerset House at Now Play This (6-14 Apr; p. 49). A festival within a festival, it showcases experimental game design and is intended to inspire enthusiasts with talks and workshops while also being family-friendly. Check out Labyrinth, a free outdoor game in the Fountain Court, as well as an adventurous

game that leads you on an illustrated trail around Somerset House. If you’re here on Saturday 6 April, take to the streets of the City of London for a memorable sight. Starting at Guildhall Yard, the annual Games Character Parade will march its way around St Paul’s Cathedral and over Cheapside. It’s a dazzling gaggle of gaming fans dressed as their favourite characters, and a real treat for kids to watch. As well as these main events, the London Games Festival has other attractions, with lots more organisations getting involved. One of the most popular is the Science

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SIGHTSEEING

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SIGHTSEEING

Buckingham Palace

Apsley House Visit the Duke of Wellington’s former home (once known as No 1 London) to see its grand interiors and fine art. It has changed very little since his victory at Waterloo in 1815. Wed-Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £10; child £6. www.english-heritage.org.uk. 149 Piccadilly, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7NT. T: 020-7499 5676. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

ArcelorMittal Orbit This 115m-tall observation tower, designed by Turner Prize-winning artist Sir Anish Kapoor, offers 20-mile views over the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park and beyond. Adventurous types can abseil to the ground or whizz down its 178m tunnel slide, which is the world’s longest. Please check for special events. Mon-Fri 11am-4pm; Sat-Sun 10am-6pm. General entry: adult £12.50; child £7.50. Entry and slide: adult £17.50; child £12.50. www.arcelormittalorbit.com. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2SS. T: 0333800 8099. Off map. Station: Stratford.

Banqueting House This 17th-century building was designed by Inigo Jones for James I, with an exquisite painted ceiling by celebrated Baroque artist Peter Paul Rubens. It is the only remaining part of the Palace of Whitehall, which was destroyed by fire. The ceiling was probably commissioned by Charles I between 1629 and 1630, before he was executed on a scaffold right outside here in 1649. Daily 10am-5pm, but call before visiting. Adult £7; child free. www.hrp.org.uk. Whitehall, SW1A 2ER. T: 020-3166 6000. E8. Station: Westminster.

Battersea Park Children’s Zoo

LONDON GAMES IMAGE © ILLO KHAN

London Games Festival

Museum’s Power UP event (6-22 Apr), during which a large room is filled with every computer console that you can think of, from a Super Nintendo to Sony’s latest PlayStation. The festival is run by Film London, which represents London’s screen industry. With the city’s West End being home to many world-class special effects studios (Double Negative in Soho has won four Oscars in under 20 years), not even Mario’s nemesis Wario would bet against London’s gaming industry – which means that the London Games Festival is sure to be epic. www.games.london

NEIL SIMPSON Sightseeing Editor

Zoo with keeper experiences, a play area and a petting farm. Attend feeding sessions throughout the day to watch animals such as otters, meerkats and monkeys as they eat (monkey-feeding sessions during weekends and school holidays only). Other animals to see include pigs, ferrets, wallabies, emus and snakes. Daily 10am-4.30pm or dusk. Adult £9.50; child £7.50. www.batterseaparkzoo.co.uk. Battersea Park, Chelsea Bridge Gate, SW11 4NJ. T: 020-7924 5826. Off map. Station: Battersea Park.

The London residence and principal workplace of the British monarch has 775 rooms. Normally closed to the public, it’s possible to tour the state rooms and garden during the summer. The Changing the Guard ceremony, during which one regiment takes over from another to protect the Queen and the palace, takes place in the forecourt on most mornings from 10.45am; check online for the full schedule. www.rct.uk/ buckinghampalace. The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria/Green Park.

Changing the Guard Watch the changing of the Queen’s Guard on the Palace’s forecourt (except in very wet weather). During the ceremony, one regiment takes over from another. The Queen’s Guard consists of the St James’s Palace and Buckingham Palace detachments. The New Guard, which during the course of the ceremony becomes the Queen’s Guard, marches to Buckingham Palace from Wellington Barracks. From 10am; please check for dates. Free to attend. www.householddivision. org.uk. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 030-3123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria/St James’s Park/Green Park.

The Charterhouse Dating back to 1348, this site was originally a burial site during the Black Death, before becoming an almshouse in 1611. Previously hidden in plain sight by a high border wall, the handsome Charterhouse has only been open to the public since 2017. There’s a museum about its past, while visitors can also attend evening services in its tiny, curious chapel. Tours must be booked to visit the rest of the site, as it is still home to a small community of retired residents called the Brothers. Tue-Sun 11am-5.30pm; approximately three tours per day. Museum and chapel admission free; standard tour from £10; Brothers’ tour from £15. www.thecharterhouse.org. Charterhouse Square, EC1M 6AN. T: 020-3818 8873. C9. Station: Barbican.

Chelsea Physic Garden

London’s oldest botanic garden was founded in 1673 as the Apothecaries’ Garden which had wide-reaching benefits around the world. Admire 5,000 species of plants, especially The British Library medicinal varieties including The British Library has more than eight tropical specimens in glasshouses. The world’s largest library, with a million stamps and 9 Apr: Lotions and Potions. A brief great permanent collection as well as 13 million books introducton to the amazing power a programme of temporary exhibitions. of plants in medicine. Free daily tours. From 5 Apr: Imaginary Cities. This Sun-Fri 11am-6pm. Adult £10; child £6.50. display by digital artist Michael Takeo www.chelseaphysicgarden.co.uk. 66 Royal Magruder ponders the changing nature of Hospital Rd, SW3 4HS. T: 020-7352 5646. Off map. collecting and what the future holds for libraries. Station: Sloane Square. From 26 Apr: Writing: Making Your Mark. Follow the history of writing, from Egyptian Chiswick House & Gardens hieroglyphs to digital breakthroughs and See Old Masters on display in this manor, which everything in-between (p. 24). To 12 May: Friendship has neo-Palladian interiors designed by William Before Facebook: Social Networks in a Pre-Digital Kent and architecture inspired by both ancient Age. The library presents its collection of little Rome and 16th-century Italy. The 18th-century ‘friendship albums’, created between 1600 and restored gardens inspired Blenheim Palace and 1900. Mon-Thur 9.30am-8pm; Fri 9.30am-6pm; New York’s Central Park. House Wed-Mon 10amSat 9.30am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Admission free; 5pm (closed 6 Apr); gardens daily 7am-dusk. charges for tours, some exhibitions and events. House entry adult £7.50; child free. www.chgt. www.bl.uk. 96 Euston Rd, NW1 2DB. T: 0330-333 org.uk. Burlington Lane, W4 2RP. T: 020-3141 3350. Off map. Station: Chiswick Park. 1144. C7. Station: King’s Cross.

DID YOU KNOW?

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81 www.wheretraveler.com 23

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SIGHTSEEING Eltham Palace & Gardens

Climb on board the world’s last surviving tea clipper, located in Greenwich. Meet the colourful characters from Cutty Sark’s past and discover stories of life on board the fastest ship of her day. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £13.50; child £7. Joint tickets with the Royal Observatory available. Book online to save. www.rmg.co.uk. Cutty Sark, King William Walk, SE10 9HT. T: 0208312 6608. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.

Experience the decade of decadence as you are transported back to the 1930s. Part showpiece of Art Deco design and part medieval royal palace, make yourself at home as a guest of the Courtaulds. 7-12 Apr: Easter Adventure Quest. Hunt for dragon eggs on a family trail through the gardens. SunFri 10am-6pm. Adult £15; child £9. www.englishheritage.org.uk/eltham. Court Yard, SE9 5QE. T: 020-8294 2548. Off map. Station: Eltham.

Dennis Severs’ House

Fulham Palace

Since 1979, visitors have been able to explore the home of artist Dennis Severs, who died in 1999 and bequeathed his house for public view. Ten rooms, from the cellar to the attic, illustrate the life of a family of Huguenot silk weavers from the 17th to 19th centuries. Try a candlelit tour for maximum ambience. Silent Night tour Mon, Wed & Fri 5pm-9pm. Daytime tour Mon noon-2pm & Sun noon-4pm. Tickets £5-£15. www.dennissevers house.co.uk. 18 Folgate St, E1 6BX. T: 020-7247 4013. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

This attractive 15th-century building was the summer retreat of the Bishops of London. Now, it’s a museum with a café, art gallery, gardens and a programme of themed tours and special events. 2 & 21 Apr: Garden Walk. Guided tour of the garden and the rare plants that grow there; 2pm-3pm. Museum, historic rooms and shop closed for renovation; botanical gardens daily. Admission free, charges for special events. www.fulham palace.org. Bishop’s Ave, SW6 6EA. T: 020-7736 3233. Off map. Station: Putney Bridge.

Dr Johnson’s House

Go Ape London

Dr Samuel Johnson compiled his English dictionary in this period home. Check for performances, talks and tours. Its current exhibition, Curious Travellers: Dr Johnson and Thomas Pennant on Tour, explores how Johnson and his contemporary Pennant toured Scotland and Wales to become pioneers of the travel-writing genre. Mon-Sat 11am-5pm; closed bank hols. Adult £7; child £3.50; cash only. www.dr johnsonshouse.org. 17 Gough Square, EC4A 3DE. T: 020-7353 3745. D9. Station: Temple.

There are several of these treetop obstacle courses located in the London area: Go Ape Battersea Park is the most central, followed by Alexandra Palace then Cockfosters in the north, as well as Black Park near Heathrow. Negotiate ladders, bridges and zip lines while attached to a reassuring harness during this experience, and bring out your inner Tarzan. Check for times and prices. www.goape.co.uk. Various locations. T: 01603-895 500.

DOUBLE BILL FOR BOOKLOVERS Have you ever wondered how long human beings have been writing words? Well, The British Library, which is home to every book ever published in the UK and Ireland, may have the answer. Its exhibition, Writing: Making Your Mark (from 26 Apr; p. 23), takes you back 5,000 years with ancient Egyptian hieroglyphs, speeding through to today’s digital breakthroughs and everything in-between – including this 1970s Chinese typewriter (right). If you’re going to be in London earlier, check out Imaginary Cities (from 5 Apr), a display encouraging people to consider how digitisation is changing the purpose of libraries. Starting with scans of pre-20thcentury maps, the digital artist Michael Takeo Magruder morphs them into the fantastical cities of your wildest dreams.

CAXTON’S PRINTING OF THE CANTERBURY TALES AND CHINESE TYPEWRITER © BRITISH LIBRARY BOARD

Cutty Sark

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SIGHTSEEING

Caxton’s printing of The Canterbury Tales from the 1470s A Chinese typewriter

‘FASCINATING’

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All the Queen’s horses

Recently reopened after winter, The Royal Mews (p. 33) is home to the ornate carriages belonging to generations of royals and their horses. The Queen names each one, which is displayed on each horse’s name plate.

THE ROYAL MEWS © ROYAL COLLECTION/IAN JONES

SIGHTSEEING

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SIGHTSEEING

Just look up

PAINTED HALL © LINDA NYLIND

Veiled in scaffolding for two years, the restored Painted Hall at the Old Royal Naval College in Greenwich (p. 32) has now been revealed. Its ceiling and walls were adorned with James Thornhill’s artwork during the 18th century and have been marvelled at ever since.

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SIGHTSEEING Ham House and Gardens

Handel & Hendrix in London

HMS Belfast

This rare and atmospheric house near Richmond is one of Europe’s greatest 17th-century homes. Its house, gardens and wider estate are said to be haunted. The garden has more than 500,000 spring bulbs blooming, which are excellent for wildlife. Enjoy a spring flowering sequence of early purple crocus, tulips and muscari. Free, 30-min architecture and garden history tours take place most days. 6-22 Apr: Easter Egg Hunt. Family adventures. House daily noon-4pm; garden, shop and café daily 10am-5pm. Adult £12.50; child £6.25. www.nationaltrust.org.uk. Ham St, Surrey, TW10 7RS. T: 020-8940 1950. Off map. Station: Richmond.

The adjoining former homes of the Anglo-German composer George Frideric Handel and the American guitarist Jimi Hendrix. See where Handel lived and composed for 36 years, plus Hendrix’s bedroom restored to how it was between 1968 and 1969. 16 Apr: Handel Revenged. Harpsichord player Masumi Yamamoto performs Handel’s Eight Great Suites in the music room; 6.30pm, £12. Mon-Sat 11am-6pm; live, free Baroque music performances every Wed & Sat, 11.30am-1.30pm; Sat 2pm-4pm. Please check online for full event details, times and prices. Adult £10; child £5. www.handel hendrix.org. 25 Brook St, W1K 4HB. T: 020-7495 1685. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Permanently moored on the River Thames, this ship is Europe’s only surviving World War II cruiser. In service until 1965, it’s now a reminder of Britain’s naval heritage. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £16.20; child £8.10. www.iwm. org.uk. The Queen’s Walk, off Tooley St, SE1 2JH. T: 020-7940 6300. E11. Station: London Bridge.

Houses of Parliament See the stunning art and architecture inside this working parliament building, which is also a royal palace. Tours Sat. Multimedia self-guided tour adult £19.50, young adult (16-18) £17, child £8 (one child free per paying adult); guided tour adult £26.50, young adult £22, child £11.50; childfriendly family guided tour adult £19.50, child free. www.parliament.uk/visit. Palace of Westminster, Parliament Square, SW1A 0AA. T: 020-7219 4114. F8. Station: Westminster.

The Jewel Tower Built around 1365 to house Edward III’s treasures, this is one of only two buildings left from the medieval Palace of Westminster after an 1834 fire. Don’t miss the ornate ceiling carvings. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £5.70; child £3.40. www.englishheritage.org.uk. Abingdon St, SW1P 3JX. T: 0207222 2219. F8. Station: Westminster.

Keats House This 19th-century home belonged to the Romantic poet John Keats. See his paintings, books, letters and household items, plus the engagement ring he gave to his sweetheart, Fanny Brawne. To 28 Apr:

Keats at Wentworth Place. This exhibition explores the poet’s time at this Hampstead address, where he met Brawne. Wed-Sun & bank hols 11am-5pm; 30-min guided tours at 1.30pm & 3pm (subject to availability). Adult £6.50; child free. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk. Keats Grove, NW3 2RR. T: 020-7332 3868. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

Kensington Palace

See London’s skyline from the top of The Shard (p. 34)

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This royal residence in Kensington Gardens was Princess Diana’s last home and is currently where the Dukes and Duchesses of Cambridge and Sussex reside. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £19.50; child £9.70. www.hrp.org.uk. Kensington Gardens, W8 4PX. T: 0844482 7777. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington/ Queensway.

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SIGHTSEEING Kenwood On the edge of Hampstead Heath, Kenwood house and its landscaped gardens is a hidden gem. Admire Robert Adams’ interiors and an art collection made up of Rembrandt, Vermeer and Gainsborough paintings. The heath is especially beautiful in spring. Regular family events. Daily 10am-5pm. Free admission. www.english-heritage. org.uk/kenwood. Hampstead Lane, NW3 7JR. T: 020-8348 1286. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew

Coca-Cola London Eye This London icon is one of the world’s largest observation wheels, where you can see for miles from your glass-enclosed pod on a 30-minute ride. Look at major landmarks, from Big Ben to The Shard. Don’t forget to share your London Eye memories using #eyelovelondon. The Coca-Cola London Joint tickets available with the SEA Eye has 32 capsules LIFE London Aquarium, London to represent the 32 London boroughs Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! Please check for times and prices. www.londoneye.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. F8. Station: Waterloo.

DID YOU KNOW?

Better known as Kew Gardens, this botanical research centre and World Heritage Site contains plants from across the globe, with Victorian tropical greenhouses and a Chinese pagoda, while the Xstrata Treetop Walkway offers great views. Don’t miss the Temperate House, which is the biggest Victorian glasshouse in the world and has reopened following a five-year refurbishment. From 13 Apr: Chihuly: Reflections on Nature. Glass artist Dale Chihuly displays 32 of his striking pieces around the grounds (p. 42). Daily 10am-7pm. Adult £18; child £6; charges for special exhibitions. www.kew.org. Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 3AB. T: 020-8332 5655. Off map. Station: Kew Gardens.

London Mithraeum On the site of Bloomberg’s European headquarters, this cultural hub showcases an ancient Roman temple which was built here nearly 2,000 years ago, to honour the god Mithras. The remains are brought to life through an immersive, multi-sensory experience. Here you can discover more than 600 objects that were left by the first Londoners, as well as modern art in Bloomberg SPACE. 10 Apr: Meet the Author: The Time Travel Diaries by Caroline Lawrence. Family event. Check for times and to book. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun noon-5pm; first Thur of the month 10am-8pm. Admission free. www.londonmithraeum.com. 12 Walbrook, EC4N 8AA. T: 020-7330 7500. D10. Station: Bank.

THE QUEEN’S GALLERY BUCKINGHAM PALACE

KidZania London Parents take a back seat here as kids take charge. Three times the size of Trafalgar Square, KidZania has everything a child could dream of including TV and animation studios, a chocolate factory and an aviation academy – there’s even a tattoo parlour. The early-years area means that younger siblings will have fun, too. You’ll leave wondering why there wasn’t a KidZania when you were growing up... which is why it hosts occasional adult nights! Daily from 10am; closing times vary so please check; closed 29-30 Apr. Advance: adult from £15; child from £18. On the day: adult from £18; child from £38. www.kidzania.co.uk. Westfield London Shopping Centre, Ariel Way, W12 7GA. T: 0330-131 3333. Map inset. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.

The London Bridge Experience & London Tombs An exciting history lesson about the 1,700-year-old London Bridge site. Special effects and actors bring this spine-tinglingly scary attraction to life. Tickets also include admission to the London Tombs, under the bridge, which are located in a former plague pit where the walls are dripping with ‘blood’. One of London’s scariest attractions – it’s not for the faint-hearted or young children. Check for times and prices. www.thelondonbridge experience.com. 2-4 Tooley St, SE1 2SY. T: 0207403 6333. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Includes Russia, Royalty and the Romanovs and Roger Fenton’s Photographs of the Crimea, 1855

IMAGE © THE VIEW FROM THE SHARD

The London Dungeon This thrilling attraction will whisk you back to the capital’s most perilous past. See, hear, feel and even smell the ‘bad old days’ as they come to life before you, thanks to costumed characters. Thrilling rides and live-action shows will keep the whole family squealing. You can also see old torture devices. Joint tickets available with SEA LIFE London Aquarium, Coca-Cola London Eye, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! Please check for times and prices. www.the dungeons.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 020-7654 0809. F8. Station: Waterloo/Embankment.

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SIGHTSEEING ZSL London Zoo

Madame Tussauds

The Monument

Immerse yourself in the animal kingdom at the world’s oldest scientific zoo, which conducts vaulable research. With more than 750 species, highlights include a penguin beach, Asiatic lions in the Land of the Lions enclosure and endangered Sumatran tigers. Daily, bookable events include Spiders Live, In with the Lemurs, Camel Chat and Meet the Animals, while the ‘Junior Keeper for a Day’ package allows visitors to meet and feed a variety of animals. Daily 10am-6pm; check online for prices. www.zsl.org. Regent’s Park, NW1 4RY. T: 020-7722 3333. B6. Station: Camden Town.

The celebrated home of life-sized wax figures, depicting famous people from the worlds of entertainment, politics, sport and history, from the Queen to Adele and Usain Bolt. Don’t miss the permanent Star Wars exhibition with 11 sets from the films, where you can do a character ‘test’, then take a selfie as you stand with the royal family on Buckingham Palace’s balcony. Joint tickets available with SEA LIFE London Aquarium, London Dungeon, Coca-Cola London Eye and Shrek’s Adventure! Please check for times. Adult £35; child £30. www.madametussauds.com/london. Marylebone Rd, NW1 5LR. T: 0871-222 0177. C6. Station: Baker Street.

This beautiful stone column standing in the heart of the City was built by Sir Christopher Wren in 1677, to commemorate those who perished in the 1666 Great Fire of London. Climb the 311 steps to its observation gallery for wonderful views of the City of London. Daily 9.30am-5.30pm. Adult £5; child £2.50. Joint tickets with Tower Bridge available. www.themonument.org.uk. Monument St, EC3R 6BD. T: 020-7626 2717. E10. Station: Monument.

The O2 Huge venue for live entertainment, sports events and exhibitions, including ICON, an all-new designer-brand shopping outlet. There’s also an Oxygen Freejumping trampoline park, plus numerous bars and restaurants. www.theo2.co.uk. Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2000. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

Old Royal Naval College This Baroque masterpiece, part of the Maritime Greenwich World Heritage Site, is the home of British naval training, with costumed characters and tours. The Painted Hall has reopened following a two-year restoration (p. 28). Check for guided tours. There’s a museum about the history of Greenwich at the visitor centre. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.ornc.org. King William Walk, SE10 9NN. T: 020-8269 4799. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.

WINDSOR CASTLE

Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park Formerly the site of the London 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games, this park includes the London Aquatics Centre (open to all for swimming and diving lessons) and the ArcelorMittal Orbit observation tower. Please check for sporting events. Park open 24 hours daily. Admission free. www.queen elizabetholympicpark.co.uk. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2ST. T: 0800072 2110. Off map. ap. Station: Stratford.

1 March – 22 April 2019

©PA

The Royal Institution of Great Britain

Book online for guaranteed entry | Seven weeks only

www.rct.uk +44 (0)303 123 7304

Grade I-listed Georgian building housing a museum about the institution’s 15 Nobel Prize-winning scientists. Visit its free Faraday Museum and you can see scientists at work, too. Check the website for full programme of talks. Mon-Fri 9am-5pm. Admission free; charges for talks. www.rigb.org. 21 Albemarle St, W1S 4BS. T: 020-7409 2992. E6. Station: Green Park.

Don’t miss the Changing the Guard ceremony (p. 23)

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SIGHTSEEING The Royal Mews

St Katharine Docks

This beautiful part of Buckingham Palace houses This central London marina dates back to the 11th the Queen’s vehicles and horses. Learn century (a crucial time for London’s trading about the mews’ history with the free development) and is tucked away by the multimedia guide, which includes Tower of London and Tower Bridge. games, a video of the Diamond A vibrant waterside destination, it’s Jubilee State Coach’s first journey lined with markets and shops such and interactive, 360-degree as the Alexander Miles Gallery and All of Queen Victoria and photography of the Gold State restaurants including CAU, Dokkei Prince Albert’s children Coach’s interior (p. 26). Kids will and Emilia’s Crafted Pasta, which learned to ride horses enjoy learning how to harness a make this a great location to spend in The Royal Mews horse, as well as the busy programme the day. The London Yacht Show of art sessions. 22 Apr: Easter Extravaganza. arrives next month (8-12 May). www.sk A day of Easter egg hunting and springdocks.co.uk. 50 St Katharine’s Way, E1W 1LA. themed arts and crafts sessions; 11am-5pm. T: 020-7264 5287. Off map. Station: Tower Hill. Please check for other special events. Daily 10am-5pm; closed 19 Apr. Adult £12; child £6.80; under-fives free. www.rct.uk/royalmews. Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 1QH. T: 0303-123 7302. F6. Station: Victoria/St James’s Park.

DID YOU KNOW?

St Martin-in-the-Fields Landmark Palladian church located near Trafalgar Square. Enjoy tours, a brass-rubbing centre, live classical music concerts (some free), Jazz in the Crypt, and art exhibitions. Holy Communion is given daily and classical music is performed weekly by candlelight. This is also the parish church for the royal family. This month, there will be free lunchtime concerts from 1pm on 1, 2, 5, 8, 9, 12, 15, 16, 22, 23, 26, 29 & 30 Apr. Mon-Fri 8.30am-6pm; Sat-Sun 9am-6pm. Admission free; brass rubbing from £4.50. www.stmartin-in-the-fields.org. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

The Royal Observatory Stand astride the historic Prime Meridian, where east meets west, to take your place at the centre of the world! Uncover the history of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) and see clocks and timepieces that have changed how we live. Take an awe-inspiring journey into space with astronomers and unravel the mysteries of the cosmos at the planetarium. There are also astronomy courses tailored to the needs of individuals. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £15; child £6.50. Joint tickets with Cutty Sark available; book online to save. Audio guided tour available. www.rmg. co.uk. Blackheath Ave, SE10 8XJ. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich/Maze Hill/Cutty Sark.

SEA LIFE London One of Europe’s largest aquariums with 500 species of global marine life and walk-through tank tunnels, including a glass walkway above a school of sharks. You can also snorkel with sharks (£130 including admission), while the Rainforest Adventure attraction is your chance to see snapping turtles and the world’s largest species of spider. Please check for times and prices. Joint tickets available with Coca-Cola London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! www.sealife.co.uk/london. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0333-321 2001. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Shrek’s Adventure! Ride the magical 4D ‘DreamWorks Tours’ bus to step into live actor fairy-tale-themed shows, where you can meet your favourite characters from the much-loved Shrek films, including Princess Fiona, Donkey and Puss in Boots. Joint tickets with the Coca-Cola London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and SEA LIFE London Aquarium available. Please check for times. Adult £27.50; child £22. www.shreksadventure.com. Riverside Building, County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-221 2837. F8. Station: Waterloo.

SOLDIER © VISIT LONDON/PAWEL LIBERA

Spencer House This aristocratic palace was built in 1766 by Lord Spencer, a relation of the late Princess Diana. Overlooking Green Park, the beautiful house boasts sumptuous, Imperial Rome-inspired interiors. It is possible to visit Spencer House’s eight state rooms on a guided tour, which helps to bring alive the beauty of the house. Sun 10.30am-4.30pm; Mon pre-booked groups only. Adult £15; child £12. www.spencerhouse.co.uk. 27 St James’s Place, SW1A 1NR. T: 020-7514 1958. E7. Station: Green Park. www.wheretraveler.com 33

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SIGHTSEEING St Paul’s Cathedral

18 Stafford Terrace

Tower Bridge

Sir Christopher Wren’s 300-year-old cathedral is known for its stunning mosaics. Climb up the dome to the Whispering Gallery and a further 271 steps to the Golden Gallery for a classic London panorama. Then head down to the crypt, with its monuments to Wren, the Duke of Wellington and Lord Nelson. The price of admission also includes a multimedia guide and tours, subject to availability on the day. Please check for occasional organ recitals and chamber music concerts. Mon-Sat 8.30am-4.30pm. Adult £20; child £8.50. www.stpauls.co.uk. St Paul’s Churchyard, EC4M 8AD. T: 020-7246 8350. D9/10. Station: St Paul’s.

This late-Victorian townhouse offers a fascinating insight into the personal lives of Punch cartoonist Edward Linley Sambourne, his wife Marion, their two children and their live-in servants, who resided here from 1875. A highlight is the costumed actor tours, which take place every Saturday from 11am, on which you’ll meet Mrs Sambourne or her parlour maid Mrs Reffell for a dramatic account based on old diaries. Wed, Sat & Sun; pre-booked tours 11am, drop-in 2pm-5.30pm or late tour from 7pm on 24 Apr. Adult from £7; child from £5. www.rbkc.gov.uk. 18 Stafford Terrace, W8 7BH. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

This breathtaking bridge, completed in 1894, is one of London’s most famous landmarks (not to be confused with its less grand, but much older neighbour, London Bridge). You can also tour the engine rooms with a knowledgeable guide, and walk over the glass walkways, 42m above the River Thames; check for occasional yoga classes up here. The bridge lifts regularly, which makes for a unique sight. Joint tickets with The Monument available. Daily 9.30am-5.30pm. Adult £9.80; child £4.20. Please check for bridge lift times. www.towerbridge.org.uk. Tower Bridge Rd, SE1 2UP. T: 020-7403 3761. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

Tower of London This centuries-old landmark has a varied history. Over the years, it has been a prison, a royal mint, a palace and even a zoo for the pleasure of royals (p. 45). It includes the Bloody Tower, Traitors’ Gate and the Jewel House, home of the dazzling Crown Jewels. Enjoy free guided tours by ‘Beefeaters’ (Yeoman Warders). Book ahead online to attend the nightly Ceremony of the Keys, which dates back to 1340 (tickets are free). Tue-Sat 9am5.30pm; Sun-Mon 10am-5.30pm. Adult £27.50; child £13.10. www.hrp.org.uk. Tower Hill, EC3N 4AB. T: 0844-482 7799. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

Up at The O2

The Top of The Shard At this slick, striking building, which opened in 2013, you can ascend the tallest building in Western Europe in a high-speed lift. At 309m up, on a clear day you can see as far as Windsor – and if you can’t see four major landmarks you can visit again for free. Alternatively, make a Saturday night of it at a silent disco on 6 or 13 Apr; £37.50, book online. Look out for yoga sessions that take place at the top of the building. Daily 10am-10pm. Adult £32; child £25; tickets must be purchased in advance online. www.theviewfromtheshard.com. 32 London Bridge St, SE1 9SG. T: 0844-499 7111. E10. Station: London Bridge.

COCA-COLA LONDON EYE © VISIT LONDON

Prepare for an unforgettable 90-minute experience which will take you on an uplifting expedition across the roof of The O2. From the viewing platform at the top, you can enjoy spectacular 360-degree views of the River Thames, Emirates Air Line, Canary Wharf and beyond. Please check for times and wheelchair access. From £30. www.theo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2680. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

For great views of the city, go on the Coca-Cola London Eye (p. 31)

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SIGHTSEEING Warner Bros. Studio Tour London

WWT London Wetland Centre

This 104-acre wildlife reserve is Explore behind the scenes home to more than 100 species of rare of the legendary Harry Potter films and wild birds. Visitors can watch the with The Making of Harry Potter otters and birds being fed every day. tour. Visitors can witness iconic sets To 3 Apr: Bird including the Great Hall, Hagrid’s Photographer of the Year. Browse the In The Making of Harry Hut, Diagon Alley and a recreation works of professionals and amateurs Potter tour, more than of Platform 9¾. It’s a fascinating in this exhibition. 6-22 Apr: Giant 950 potion jars line insight into how the films were made. Easter Duck Trail. This family-friendly the walls of the From 6 Apr: Gringotts Wizarding event helps you learn about wildlife classroom Bank. The biggest expansion since the while searching for yellow ducks; £1. tour opened incorporates this memorable Daily 9.30am-5.30pm. Adult £13; child £7.90. part of the film set, featuring the Lestrange www.wwt.org.uk. Queen Elizabeth’s Walk, SW13 Vault and a goblin gallery. Please check for 9WT. T: 020-8409 4400. Off map. Station: Barnes. times. Adult £43; child £35. Booking essential. www.wbstudiotour.co.uk. Studio Tour Drive, Leavesden, Hertfordshire, WD25 7LS. T: 0845084 0900. Off map. Station: Euston to Watford Junction, then shuttle bus.

DID YOU KNOW?

RIVER TRIPS Circular Cruise Westminster Circular Cruise Westminster operates a hop-on, hop-off sightseeing service from Westminster Pier. Boats depart every 40 minutes for Embankment, Festival, Bankside and St Katharine’s Piers (for the Tower of London), returning non-stop to Westminster. Multilingual commentary available on smartphones via Wi-Fi in English, German, French, Spanish, Italian and Mandarin. Daily 11am-5pm. Adult single £10.25, return £15.25; child single £6.50, return £10. www.circularcruise.london. Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7936 2033. F8. Station: Westminster.

Wellington Arch Climb to the viewing galleries of this magnificent arch, built originally as an entrance to Buckingham Palace and now as a triumphal arch. It is one of London’s most distinctive monuments. Enjoy panoramic views over the Royal Parks and Houses of Parliament, plus exhibitions. Joint tickets available with Apsley House. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £5.40; child £3.20. www.english-heritage. org.uk. Apsley Way, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7JZ. T: 020-7930 2726. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Westminster Abbey Consecrated in 1065, this abbey is the crowning and burial site of most English monarchs. It also houses Poets’ Corner, the burial place of Charles Dickens and other famous writers. In 2018 the Abbey unveiled its first major structural addition in more than a quarter of a millenium: a new tower that leads to The Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Galleries. Housed in the medieval triforium which has panoramic views, this new exhibition space tells the story of the abbey through more than 300 objects. Look out for recitals on the grand pipe organ. 8 Apr: Lunchtime Lecture. Westminster abbey Institute’s Dr Claire Foster-Gilbert talks about how the Institute works to revitalise moral and spiritual values in public life. Mon-Fri 9.30am4.30pm; Sat 9am-2pm; closed 20 Apr. Wed late opening 4.30pm-7pm, with half-price entry. Abbey only, adult £23; child £10. Abbey and The Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Galleries, adult £28; child £10. www.westminster-abbey.org. 20 Dean’s Yard, SW1P 3PA. T: 020-7222 5152. F7. Station: Westminster.

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SIGHTSEEING City Cruises

London Eye River Cruise

Daily guided sightseeing tours on the River Thames, in all weathers, between Westminster, London Eye, Tower and Greenwich piers. River Red Rover is an all-day hop-on, hop-off sightseeing service where you can spot all the top sights including Tower Bridge, the Houses of Parliament and Big Ben. Dining options include the London Showboat cabaret cruise, which departs from Westminster Pier and includes a four-course meal with live music, daily from 7.30pm. Other cruises also available. Please check the website for times and prices. www.citycruises.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7740 0400.

Live commentary on a 40-minute sightseeing river cruise. The commentary from specialist guides and audio guides are available in nine languages Please check online for times. Adult £13.50; child £10. Discounted joint tickets with the London Eye available. www.londoneye.com/river-cruise. London Eye Pier, South Bank, SE1 7PB. F8. Station: Waterloo.

contactless payment. Download its free in:flow app, which provides real-time audio explanation of the sights. River Roamer hop-on and hop-off (valid all day from 9am) advance adult £17.80, child £8.90; on the day adult £19.80, child £9.90; children under five travel free. Adult single journeys from £4.60. www.mbnathamesclippers.com. Various departure points along the River Thames. T: 020-7001 2200.

MBNA Thames Clippers

Thames River Services

The fastest and most frequent fleet on the river, with departures from major London piers every 20 minutes. The boats set off from 22 piers across the capital. Discounts with Oyster cards and

This hop-on, hop-off service features live audio commentary. Departs from Westminster Pier to Greenwich 10am-4pm and from Greenwich to Westminster via St Katharine’s 11am-5pm. Please check for prices (33 per cent off published fares with a TFL Travelcard). www.thamesriverservices.london. Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7936 4097. F8. Station: Westminster.

Thamesjet Try ThamesRush, a 50-minute adrenaline-fuelled experience – the most extreme ride on the river – and you’ll enjoy sightseeing, speed and awesome aquabatics all in one. Departs from Westminster Pier. From 10am, but depends on the tide so please check for times. Minimum height requirement 1.35m/4ft 5in. Adult from £39; child from £29. www.thamesjet.com. Westminster Bridge, SE1 7GL. T: 020-7740 0400. F8. Station: Westminster.

TOURS & GUIDED WALKS BEE Midtown Guided Walks Approximately 10 free, themed walking tours every month around Bloomsbury, Farringdon and Holborn, an area also known as Midtown. Full walks programme is published near the bottom of BEE Midtown’s homepage; most walks do not require pre-booking. www.bee-midtown.org. Departure points vary. T: 020-7078 7077.

Westminster Abbey was consecrated in 1065 (p. 35)

Tours available year round

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Book online or call us on +44 20 7219 4114

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SIGHTSEEING Big Bus Tours

Golden Tours Open-Top Bus Tours

Hairy Goat Photography Tours

Daily sightseeing trips aboard a fleet of open-top, double-decker buses. Various ticket packages are available, from one to three days. Look out for the one-day orientation tour, which includes a free, 90-minute walking tour and a one-way river cruise. Classic Ticket (one day) adult £37, child £19. www.bigbustours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7808 6753.

See London’s iconic sights aboard an open-top double-decker bus. The Essential Tour includes an English-speaking guide who will describe the sights, or there are multilingual audio commentary tours, during which you can hop-on and hop-off the bus. This drops you to the doorstep of the capital’s most popular locations including Piccadilly Circus, Trafalgar Square, Parliament Square and more. Landmarks include Buckingham Palace, Tower of London, St Paul’s Cathedral and many more. Three-hour, one-day, 24-, 48- and 72-hour tickets available. Please check for prices. www.goldentours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039.

Offering exploratory photography tours alongside personal, tailor-made or regular group workshops, the acclaimed Hairy Goat offers both daytime and evening options. Discover back streets, pubs, alleys, churches and the finer details of new and old architecture, as well as the street and river scenes that make London a joy to photograph. Tours include the London Photography Mystery Tour, and Photography on the Move. The tour is suitable for compact cameras, bridge cameras and SLRs. You are welcome to bring tablets and smartphones. You will also receive a booklet of photography notes. www.hairygoat.net. Departure points vary. T: 07540-832771.

Big Bus Walking Tours Enjoy a 90-minute historic and royal guided walk from Trafalgar Square, along Carlton Gardens, the Mall and through St James’s Park to Horse Guards Parade, taking in areas that can’t be reached by bus. Daily 10.30am. Free with Big Bus London Tour tickets. www.bigbustours.com. Departs from the Big Bus stop in Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7808 6753. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

Billingsgate Roman House & Baths Beneath the curious cobbled pathways of the Square Mile lies a rich Roman history that’s survived 2,000 years of construction, fires and World War II bombs. Lower Thames Street is home to one of Roman London’s most fascinating remains, discovered in 1848. Explore this interesting insight into ancient life in the City on a hour-long guided tour and discover the remains of the Roman Bathhouse, which lies hidden beneath office buildings. Sat 11am, noon and 1pm. Adult £10.19; child £8.06. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk. 101 Lower Thames St, EC3R 6DL. E11. Station: Tower Hill/Monument.

Capital Taxi Tours A Blue Badge- or City of London-qualified guide drives you around in a taxi for up to five people. Choose from London tours by day or night, trips outside the city and themed tours including a Doctor Who option – on which you’ll see a Tardis and locations from the films and TV series. There is even a tour designed for fans of TV’s Downton Abbey. Prices vary and are per taxi. www.capitaltaxitours.co.uk. Departure points vary. T: 020-8590 3621.

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The oldest and largest sightseeing company in London has been accompanying visitors on city tours and out-of-town excursions since 1930. You are spoilt for choice and can visit everywhere from Warwick Castle and Stratford-upon-Avon to Stonehenge and Bath, as well as all the London sights. Evans Evans also has tours to access the Warner Bros. Studio Tour London, which has sets from the Harry Potter films. Please check for times and prices. www.evanevanstours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7950 1777.

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Choose from a variety of unique themed walks that are not offered by other companies, focusing on everything from Fleet Street to Smithfield Market and several City gardens, all within London’s historic Square Mile. Prices range from free to £12.50. www.cityoflondonguides.com. Departure points vary.

City of London Guides Walks

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Golden Tours From day excursions to overnight city breaks, the London expert offers quality tour experiences from London to popular locations such as Bath, Stonehenge, Windsor Castle and Brighton. The company offers an unrivalled range of tours and services. Please check for times and prices. www.goldentours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039.

FREE audio guides available

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SIGHTSEEING Jack the Ripper Tour

London Chocolate Tours

The London Helicopter Tour

Blue Badge Guide Richard Jones of London Walking Tours devised these popular two-hour walks in 1982, offering an intriguing look at the infamous serial killer. Booking essential. Daily 7pm. £10. www.jack-the-ripper-tour.com. Exit 4, Aldgate East Station. T: 020-8530 8443. Off map.

Sample the world’s finest chocolates, truffles and ganaches in the snart shopping district of Mayfair, which is home to some of the greatest chocolatiers. On this one-hour tour, you are led by a former coffee and cocoa commodity trader. Along the way you can learn about how chocolate is produced, as well as get the chance to taste chocolate. Booking is essential. Private group tours are available on request. Sun 12.30pm; tours last for two hours 30 minutes. £15 for Where London readers (usually £40). www.tourguides. org.uk. Green Park station, by exit closest to The Ritz. T: 020-8526 7755. E6. Station: Green Park/Piccadilly Circus.

Enjoy this opportunity to discover the capital from the unique perspective of a helicopter, with its uninterrupted views. Departing from London’s only heliport, glide above the Thames, taking in iconic landmarks including the Tower of London, St Paul’s Cathedral and The Shard. Choose from the 12-minute Buzz, 18-minute Sights or 30-minute Max tour. Prices start at £200 per seat for a shared tour. www.thelondon helicopter.com. The POD Building, Bridges Court, SW11 3BE. T: 020-7887 2626. Off map. Station: Clapham Junction.

Kia Oval Tours Tour the famous ground, home of Surrey County Cricket Club since 1845 and a regular venue for England matches. See the architecture, history and famous sporting faces. Please check for times and prices. www.kiaoval.com. Kia Oval, SE11 5SS. T: 020-3946 0100. Off map. Station: Oval.

London Literary Pub Crawl See where the giants of the London literary world ate, drank and worked. This unique tour is artist-led and arranged by the not-for-profit charity, the Maverick Theatre Company. Starting in Fitzrovia and ending in Soho, it includes pubs and bars associated with the British film industry and contemporary writers. Sat 5pm. Tickets £24; booking strongly advised. www.londonliterary pubcrawl.com. 12 Fouberts Place, off Carnaby St, W1F 7PA. T: 020-8090 5082. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

London Magical Tours Award-winning provider of private and scheduled group tours to London and its surroundings. Discover the UK with your own tour team with no parking worries: a professional guide and extra chauffeur, travelling in a private vehicle. Multilingual guides are available in all languages. www.londonmagicaltours.com. Departure points vary. T: 0870-489 0156.

London Tailored Tours Enjoy these private tours for small groups, run by local Londoners. There are a wide selection of themed tours to choose from including Borough Market, Harry Potter,, London Sports, Girls Day Out and A Royal Morning in London. Please check for times and prices. www.london tailoredtours.com. T: 07498-036295

London Walks London’s oldest walking tour company offers more than 300 walks. Each takes around two hours, departure points vary and there’s no need to book. As well as Jack the Ripper, Harry Potter and ghost walks, London Walks offers routes around London’s ‘villages’, including Kensington and Hampstead. Adult £10; child free when accompanied by an adult. www.walks.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7624 3978.

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SIGHTSEEING Neverland Children’s Tours

Twizy Tours

Wembley Stadium Tours

Offering fully supervised activities and adventures This fun experience allows you to hire a two-seater for children aged eight and over, the aim of electric Renault Twizy. You get the chance Neverland Children’s Tours is to make to be in control, as you can drive London sightseeing interactive and yourself through the streets of fun. www.neverlandchildrenstours. London accompanied by an co.uk. International House, entertaining, GPS-guided audio 24 Holborn Viaduct, EC1A 2BN. tour. Alternatively, rent an adorable Buckingham Palace T: 020-3239 5059. D9. Station: Twizy without the audio tour and has 760 windows, Chancery Lane. roam freely at your own pace. Tours 19 state rooms and include Royal Flash, Rule Britannia 78 bathrooms Original London and Blenheim Palace. Prices from £30 Sightseeing Walk per rental. www.twizytours.com. Apcoa Ninety-minute walks depart daily from the Parking Car Park, 21 Bryanston St, W1H 7AB. Original London Visitor Centre, near Trafalgar T: 07376-428363. D5. Station: Marble Arch. Square on Cockspur Street. Choose from Changing the Guard at 10am, Rock ‘n’ Roll at 1pm and Jack the Ripper at 4pm (from The Original Tour bus stop at Tower Hill). £9 per walk, or free with an Original London Sightseeing Tour ticket. An Explore Walks Pass, which grants access to all three walks over a 48-hour period, costs £18. Alternatively, book one of Original’s three new walking tours, Picture London, Royal London and Haunted London, which run from Fri-Sun and cost £5 each or £10 for all three. www.the originaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

DID YOU KNOW?

Go behind the scenes at this famous football and concert stadium, which is one of the UK’s largest venues. The 75-minute tour includes the dressing rooms, press conference room, players’ tunnel, pitch side and the iconic Royal Box. This is where England’s glorious 1966 World Cup victory took place and is the venue for many sell-out concerts. The award-winning tour gets you behind-the-scenes and has plenty of photo opportunities. Take a selfie with a replica of the FA Cup. From 10am; please check for dates. Adult £20; child £12. www.bookings.wembleytours.com. Wembley Stadium, HA9 0WS. T: 0800-169 9933. Off map. Station: Wembley Park.

The Original Tour With more than 65 years’ experience, these live and multilingual open-top guided bus tours take you to the city’s best attractions, allowing you to hop on and off at more than 80 stops. Its original 24-hour tour includes free walking tours and a Thames River cruise pass. 24-hour adult £34, child £16; 48-hour adult £424, child £20. www.theoriginaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, Trafalgar Square, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

Royal Albert Hall Tours Take the one-hour Grand Tour of this Victorian concert hall, which has a history dating back to Queen Victoria. Tours daily 9.30am-4.30pm; no tours 7-14 Apr. Adult £14.50; child £7. www.royal alberthall.com. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7959 0558. F4. Station: South Kensington.

SEE IT. HEAR IT. FEEL IT. The all-new Chelsea FC Museum and Tour experience. Get closer than ever before with exclusive content, 360 films and much more.

Royal Opera House Tours One of the world’s leading opera venues and home to the Royal Ballet company. A variety of tour options offer access to the auditorium, the Royal Retiring Room and even backstage as the Opera House prepares for that evening’s performance. Backstage Tour, most days 10.30am, 12.30pm & 2.30pm, £12-£15; Covent Garden Legends and Landmarks Tour, 30 Apr, £10-£13. www.roh.org. uk/tours. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden. Ride around the West End and City in the evening. Regular departures from outside The Ritz. Tours last 90 minutes. Daily 7.30pm, 8pm, 8.30pm, 9.15pm, 9.45pm & 10.15pm. Adult £21; child £12. www.seelondonbynight.com. 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7183 4744. E6. Station: Green Park.

Shakespeare’s Globe This reconstruction of Shakespeare’s original Elizabethan Globe theatre has the city’s only thatched roof, while its Sam Wanamaker Playhouse is a separate, candlelit performance space. The half-hour tour begins every 30 minutes, after which you may browse the Globe’s exhibition. Daily 9.30am-5pm; exhibition and Globe theatre tour adult £17; child £10. www.shakespeares globe.com. 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 0207902 1400. E10. Station: Blackfriars.

TOURS AVAILABLE IN 12 LANGUAGES

VISIT CHELSEAFC.COM/TOURS FOR MORE INFORMATION. 02514

NELSON’S COLUMN © KEITH MINDHAM PHOTOGRAPHY

See London by Night Tour

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SIGHTSEEING Westways Carriage Horses For an indulgent and truly memorable experience, be collected from your hotel and experience the top sights of central London from the comfort of a horse-drawn carriage. Tours last up to two hours in either a four or six-seater carriage, with a hood to accomodate any weather. The London Tour transports you to a bygone era of travel. You can take in sights that include Buckingham Palace, Trafalgar Square, Westminster Cathedral and the Coca-Cola London Eye. During the tour you are able, if the weather permits, to have a picnic in Hyde Park. £550 per carriage. www.westwayscarriagehorses.co.uk. T: 020-8572 3155.

OUT OF TOWN Ashmolean Museum of Art and Archaeology Britain’s first public museum dates back to 1683, when the politician Elias Ashmole left his collection of antiquities and natural curiosities to the University of Oxford. See archaeological artefacts, pre-Raphaelite paintings, Egyptian mummies and Oliver Cromwell’s death mask. To 7 Apr: Lui Shou-Kwan Centenary Exhibition. Celebrating 100 years since the birth of Hong Kong’s Lui, famous for his ink paintings. To 9 Jun: Jeff Koons. Curated in partnership with the artist himself, explore 17 artworks dating from

Three domes. Five floors. And Europe’s greatest crypt. See an other side of St Paul’s.

the 1980s to the present day. To 9 Jun: Dimensions: The Mathematics of Symmetry and Patterns. From ancient cultures to the latest scientific discoveries, this exhibition was developed with Oxford’s Mathematical Institute. Daily 10am-5pm; last Fri of each month 10am-8pm. Free admission, charges for special exhibitions. www.ashmolean.org. Beaumont St, Oxford, OX1 2PH. T: 01865-278 000. Off map. Station: Paddington to Oxford.

Blenheim Palace See three centuries of treasures in magnificent state rooms at this Baroque palace, the birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill, which is set in 2,100 acres of ‘Capability’ Brown parkland and formal gardens. 19-22 Apr: Easter at Blenheim Palace. The beautiful Pleasure Gardens are transformed with a traditional fairground, a fancy dress tent, stilt walkers, puppet shows and more. To 22 Apr: The Young Turner. Exhibition of the early commissions in the career of Britain’s celebrated Romantic painter, JMW Turner. Palace daily 10.30am-5.30pm, park daily 9am-6pm or dusk, formal gardens daily 10.30am-4.30pm. Palace, Park & Gardens adult £27; child £15.50. Park & Gardens adult £16; child £7.40. Free entry for under-fives. www.blenheimpalace.com. Woodstock, Oxfordshire, OX20 1PP. T: 01993-810 530. Off map. Station: Paddington to Oxford, then bus S3.

Chartwell The family home of wartime Prime Minister Sir Winston Churchill. While Churchill and his wife Clementine were still living here, it was bought by the National Trust and maintained on behalf of the nation. The site includes a garden, woodlands and a restaurant. House Mon-Fri 11.30am-5pm, Sat-Sun 11am-5pm; garden and restaurant daily 10am-5pm. Adult £15.50; child £7.75. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ chartwell. Mapleton Rd, Westerham, Kent, TN16 1PS. T: 01732-868 381. Off map. Station: London Bridge or Victoria to Edenbridge or Oxted. Once the favourite royal residence of King Henry VIII, this Tudor palace and 300-year-old maze is set in 60 acres of parkland on the river. Visit the Tudor kitchens, which would have prepared feasts for the king and all his courtiers, then see Henry’s state apartments, including the Great Hall. Let the kids run around the famous maze in the landscaped lawns, and explore the Magic Garden, home to mysterious beasts. 6-22 Apr: Easter Lindt Gold Bunny Hunt. Enjoy some family springtime fun around the palace and gardens. Check for special events. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £23.70; child £11.90. www.hrp.org.uk. Hampton Court, East Molesey, Surrey, KT8 9AU. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Hampton Court.

ROYAL ALBERT HALL © ISTOCK

Hampton Court Palace

Visit the iconic Royal Albert Hall (p. 39)

www.stpauls.co.uk

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Climb one dome for the best 360º views in London. Step beneath another to experience the unforgettable. Enrich your visit with an acclaimed multimedia guide, available in nine languages.

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SIGHTSEEING Hever Castle and Gardens

Palace of Holyroodhouse

Stonehenge

Dating back to the 13th century, this beautiful castle was the childhood home of Henry VIII’s second wife, Anne Boleyn. The Tudor castle has magnificent interiors, the work of the Astor family during the 20th century. Outside, the castle’s gardens feature statues and a lake for boat rides. 6-22 Apr: Easter Family Fun. Hop around a trail hunting for carrots to win chocolate goodies. Other activities include Easter bonnet-making and a search inside the castle for hidden bunnies. 24-30 Apr: Tulip Celebrations. Explore the grounds as approximately 21,000 tulip bulbs open up in a colourful display. Daily 10.30am-6pm, castle from noon. Adult £17.75; child £9.95. www.hevercastle. co.uk. Hever, Edenbridge, Kent, TN8 7NG. T: 01732-865224. Off map. Station: London Victoria or London Bridge to Edenbridge.

The Queen’s official residence in Scotland stands at the end of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile, against the spectacular backdrop of Arthur’s Seat. Tour highlights include the state apartments and Mary, Queen of Scots’ chamber. 8-21 Apr: Easter at the Palace. Children and families can search the palace by following an Easter trail, then compete to design the best Easter bonnet in the family room. Daily 9.30am-6pm; closed 19 Apr. Adult £15; child £8.70. www.rct.uk/ palaceofholyroodhouse. Canongate, The Royal Mile, Edinburgh, EH8 8DX. T: 0303-123 7306. Off map. Station: Edinburgh Waverley.

The world’s most famous stone circle and a World Heritage Site, Stonehenge is more than 5,000 years old. With obscure Neolithic origins, it is perfectly aligned with the rising sun at the solstice. The visitor centre has an exhibition, shop and café. To 21 Apr: Making Connections: Stonehenge in its Prehistoric World. In collaboration with The British Museum, this display of precious objects reveals the habits of those alive when Stonehenge was built. Daily 9.30am-7pm. Adult £21.10; child £12.70. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Amesbury, Wiltshire, SP4 7DE. T: 0870-333 1181. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Salisbury, then bus or taxi.

Leeds Castle Fairy-tale, 900-year-old castle with a moat, gardens and parkland. Lose yourself in the spiralling yew maze, visit the birds of prey centre and watch a falconry display in the castle grounds. 19-22 Apr: Easter Fun with the Junk Orchestra. Dynamic daily musical sessions with instruments made out of bits of rubbish. Grounds and garden daily 10am-6pm; castle 10.30am-5.30pm. Adult £26; child £17.50; under-fours free. www.leeds-castle.com. Maidstone, Kent, ME17 1PL. T: 01622-765 400. Off map. Station: Victoria to Bearsted.

The Original Tour Windsor & Eton Explore the beautiful town of Windsor and nearby Eton College, using 11 bus stops incorporating the castle grounds and following the river. Hop-on and hop-off to discover this famous market town and its centuries-old royal history – Eton College is where Princes William and Harry were educated. Departures every 30 mins. Adult £13; child £7. Combined package with The Original Tour London (24 hours London, 24 hours Windsor) adult £45; child £22. www.theoriginaltour.com. Theatre Royal Windsor, Thames St, Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 1PS. T: 020-8877 1722. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Riverside.

Osterley Park and House Explore this beautiful country home decorated as it would have been in the 1780s, then stroll its formal gardens or stop for a snack in the stable tearoom. There’s a programme of park runs too, for both adults and children. Garden daily 10am-5pm; house daily 11am-4pm. Adult £12; child £6. www.nationaltrust.org.uk. Jersey Rd, Isleworth, Middlesex, TW7 4RB. T: 020-8232 5050. Off map. Station: Osterley/Isleworth.

WITH AFTERNOON TEA Experience London’s most beloved venue followed by a traditional afternoon tea

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SIGHTSEEING

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A glass act

As the sun makes its return to the skies over London, where should you go to enjoy those rays? Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew is a good suntrap, but this spring it’s harnessing all that extra light for maximum impact. Chihuly: Reflections on Nature (from 13 Apr; p. 31) marks the return to Kew of Seattle-based glass artist Dale Chihuly. Thirty two of his works will be displayed around the UNESCO World Heritage Site, with the star of the show set to be a new piece suspended from the roof of the Temperate House. This massive Victorian glasshouse is a beauty already, so to see one of Chihuly’s works at the centre of it is a treat.

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...for shops, restaurants, theatre bookings They would be happy to assist you so that you can enjoy the very best that London has to offer in the time that you have to spend with us

where

Syon Park

Warwick Castle

This stunning Palladian mansion set in parkland is home to the Duke of Northumberland, which has parts open to the public. Don’t miss the incredible interiors, Grade I-listed landscaped gardens and Great Conservatory. House tickets include a guided tour at 2pm, following one of a variety of themes. This has been in the family of the present owners for more than 400 years. Gardens daily 10.30am-5pm; house Wed, Thur, Sun & bank hols 11am-5pm. Adult £13; child £6. www.syonpark. co.uk. Syon Park, Brentford, Middlesex, TW8 8JF. T: 020-8560 0882. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Syon Lane.

Built in 914 by Ethelfleda, daughter of Alfred the Great, then enhanced by William the Conqueror in 1068, this castle is now a familyfriendly experience with landscaped gardens designed by ‘Capability’ Brown. Its past is brought to life with free tours by the castle’s history team. From 6 Apr: The Falconer’s Quest. Billed as the UK’s biggest birds of prey show, this new, daily attraction showcases 50 high-flying birds. Open daily, subject to weather; check for times. Castle adult £20, child £18; castle & dungeon adult £24, child £21. www.warwickcastle.com. Warwick, Warwickshire, CV34 6AH. T: 0871-265 2000. Off map. Station: Warwick.

Waddesdon Manor

Watts Gallery

Renaissance-style chateau built in the late 19th century. Magnificent house and wine cellars, plus gardens and an aviary. Grounds Wed-Sun & bank hols 10am-5pm; house Wed-Fri noon-4pm, Sat-Sun & bank hols 11am-4pm. Grounds only adult £11, child £5.50; house and grounds adult £22, child £16.50. www.waddesdon.org.uk. Near Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire, HP18 0JH. T: 01296-820414. Off map. Station: Marylebone to Aylesbury.

An Arts and Crafts gem in the Surrey Hills, dedicated to the Victorian painter and sculptor George Frederic Watts. Enjoy the Victorian artwork on display in its original studios. Tue-Sun & bank hols 10.30am-5pm. Adult £11.50 (Tue £5.75); child free. www.watts gallery.org.uk. Down Lane, Compton, Surrey, GU3 1DQ. T: 1483-810235. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Guildford, then bus or taxi.

DID YOU KNOW? Every morning at ZSL London Zoo, a keeper has to level out all the holes that the aardvarks dig during the night

AARDVARK © ISTO; DALE CHIHULY © CHIHULY STUDIOS

and sightseeing activities in the area

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Feel wonder first hand

Members go free Book online to save at westminster-abbey.org

London looks amazing, beautifully lit up at night

See By Night

Windsor Castle The Queen’s weekend home and the world’s oldest inhabited castle. This is where the Duke and Duchess of Sussex wed and Princess Eugenie married Jack Brooksbank last year. Includes state apartments furnished with Old Masters. Changing the Guard alternate days 11am except Sun. To 22 Apr: A Royal Wedding: HRH Princess Eugenie and Mr Jack Brooksbank. See the couple’s wedding outfits on display. Daily 10am5.15pm; castle closed 18-19 Apr; chapel closed 17 Apr. Adult £22.50; child £13. www.rct.uk/ windsorcastle. Berkshire, SL4 1NJ. T: 0303-123 7304. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Central or Windsor & Eton Riverside.

Woburn Abbey and Gardens Reopens for summer season 5 Apr. Set in a 3,000-acre deer park, this historic abbey has been home to the earls and dukes of Bedford for nearly 400 years and is currently occupied by the 15th duke and his family. The current exhibition Humphry Repton: Art and Nature explores the working relationship between the famous gardener and the 6th Duke of Bedford. Gardens, deer park, tea room and shop daily 10am-6pm; abbey daily 11am-5pm. Gardens and deer park adult £8.25; child £5.50. Abbey, gardens and deer park adult £18; child £9. www.woburnabbey.co.uk. Woburn, Bedfordshire, MK17 9WA. T: 01525290333. Off map. Station: St Pancras to Flitwick.

Departing daily from Green Park bus stop next to the Ritz Hotel

at 19:30, 20:00, 20:30, 21:15, 21:45 and 22:15 Spectacular live guided tours of London by night

Adult - £21 Child - £12

Private tours available for groups day or night

Tel: 0844 504 3285 +44 (0)20 7183 4744

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MUSEUMS Arsenal Stadium Tours & Museum Football fans can enjoy a self-guided audio tour for a peek inside the players’ changing rooms, tunnel, the dugout and more, or a Legends Tour led by ex-Arsenal players. Museum and selfguided tours Mon-Fri 10am-5pm; Sat 9.30am-6pm; Sun 10am-4pm; check for match-related closures. Legends Tours from 11am onwards (check for dates and times). Self-guided: adult £23; child £15. Legends: adult from £40; child from £20. Free admission to museum. www.arsenal.com/tours. Hornsey Rd, N5 1BU. T: 020-7619 5003. Off map. Station: Arsenal.

Bank of England Museum Explore the story of the bank from its foundation in 1694 to its status today as the UK’s central bank. The Feliks Topolski: Drawing Debden exhibition showcases a series of sketches, revealing how banknotes were made during the late 1950s. 8-18 Apr: Eggs Mark the Spot. Kids have the chance to search the museum for a stash of hidden Easter eggs. Find them and finish the trail to win a small prize. You can also enjoy Easter crafts during your visit. Mon-Fri 10am-5pm; closed bank hols. Admission free. www.bankofengland. co.uk/museum. Threadneedle St, EC2R 8AH. T: 020-7601 5545. D10. Station: Bank.

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Abracadabra

The Wellcome Collection asks an interesting question this month: most of us love to be tricked by magicians and illusionists, but why? Smoke and Mirrors: The Psychology of Magic (from 11 Apr; p. 50) turns a scientific eye on the rabbit in the hat which, according to Wellcome, should reveal much about our minds. The exhibition is split into three sections: The Séance makes connections between our desire to communicate with the dead and the rise of science in the 19th century; Misdirection explains how magicians distract the human brain to their advantage; while Mentalism explores mind-reading.

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NEIL SIMPSON Museums & Galleries Editor

Benjamin Franklin House

The Cartoon Museum

Visit the last remaining home of the American founding father. Architectural tours Mon noon, 1pm, 2pm, 3.15pm and 4.15pm; Historical Experience show Wed-Sun noon, 1pm, 2pm, 3.15pm and 4.15pm. Architectural tour: adult £6; child free. Historical Experience: adult £8; child free. www.benjamin franklinhouse.org. 36 Craven St, WC2N 5NF. T: 020-7925 1405. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

The museum has relocated to 63 Wells Street and is set to reopen before the end of the month. It’s dedicated to British cartoons, caricature and comic art from the 18th century to today, with a permanent collection and temporary exhibitions. Check online for opening times and launch events. Adult £7; child free. www.cartoonmuseum.org. 35 Little Russell St, W1T 3QQ. T: 020-7580 8155. D7. Station: Goodge Street/Oxford Circus/ Tottenham Court Road.

Body Worlds This flagship contains 200 exhibits exploring how the human body works, using the latest plastination technology. Gunther von Hagens developed the preservation process. Sun-Thur 9.30am-7pm; Fri-Sat 9.30am-9pm. Advance adult £24.50, child £17.50; on the day adult £28, child £22. www.bodyworlds.co.uk. London Pavilion, 1 Piccadilly Circus, W1J 0DA. T: 033-0223 3233. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The British Museum See an unrivalled collection of antiquities. From 11 Apr: Edvard Munch: Love and Angst. See how the artist captured human emotions (p. 46). Regular talks, evening events and performances. Sat-Thur 10am-5.30pm; Fri 10am-8.30pm. Admission free; charges for some exhibitions. www.british museum.org. Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8299. D7/8. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Russell Square.

Charles Dickens Museum Former home of Victorian novelist Dickens, where he wrote classics including Oliver Twist. Decorated in authentic Victorian style, it displays his personal possessions and includes a garden to relax in. To 22 Apr: Food Glorious Food: Dinner with Dickens. Dickens’ dining room is set for a lavish Victorian dinner, while an accompanying exhibition explores how the writer celebrated food, both in his books and during the parties he threw here. Tue-Sun & bank hols 10am-5pm. Adult £9.50; child £4.50. www.dickensmuseum.com. 48 Doughty St, WC1N 2LX. T: 020-7405 2127. C8. Station: Russell Square.

Chelsea FC Stadium Museum & Tours Guided one-hour tours of the dressing room, players’ tunnel and press room, plus a museum with memorabilia and trophies. Open daily, please check for times and match-day closures. Tour and museum adult £24, child £15 (discount for online bookings); museum only adult £12, child £10; monthly ex-players tour with past stars of the game from £80. www.chelseafc.com/tours. Stamford Bridge, SW6 1HS. T: 0371-811 1955. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.

Churchill War Rooms Explore the fortified secret bunker and the Cabinet War Rooms beneath the streets of Westminster, where Prime Minister Sir Winston Churchill and his inner circle worked during World War II to plot the Allied victory. Discover the stories of the staff who spent vital working and sleeping hours here from 1938 onwards. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £22; child £11. www.iwm.org.uk. Clive Steps, King Charles St, SW1A 2AQ. T: 020-7930 6961. F7. Station: Westminster.

Clink Prison Museum In this spooky former prison dating back to 1144, hands-on exhibits reveal London’s penal past and instruments of torture. It’s said to be haunted by the ghosts of former inmates; check for Haunted Happenings events. Mon-Fri 10am-6pm; Sat-Sun 10am-7.30pm. Adult £7.50; child £5.50. www.clink.co.uk. 1 Clink St, SE1 9DG. T: 020-7403 0900. E10. Station: London Bridge.

THIS PAGE: WILLIAM MARRIOT IN PEARSON’S MAGAZINE © HARRY PRICE LIBRARY OF MAGICAL LITERATURE, SENATE HOUSE LIBRARY, UNIVERSITY OF LONDON. FACING PAGE: ROYAL BEASTS © HISTORIC ROYAL PALACES/KENDRA HASTE

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Urban jungle The capital is a beastly place for tourists this month, warns Neil Simpson

uring a regular day in modern London, the only animals you’re likely to see are dishevelled pigeons, a Tube mouse and perhaps some surly foxes. This month however, there’s something stirring in the city. Beasts of London at the Museum of London (from 5 Apr; p. 48) is a chance to see animals that used to live here, via a digital ‘safari’. Beasts of London is the result of a collaboration between the museum and its neighbour, the Guildhall School of Music & Drama. Known for the expertise of its video design department, the school has worked on large projections for shows at locations including Tower Bridge.

The display tells the story of London, from a small settlement to the establishment of the City (where the museum stands today). It’s narrated by a cast of animals who each describe an episode in London’s history from their perspective. It might include the story of Walter Rothschild, a 19th-century Londoner who used three zebras to pull his carriage down The Mall. Perhaps it will also make room for Goofy, Bobbit or Prince, who all rest in Hyde Park’s graveyard for pets. Created by London’s bereaved dog owners, this little-known corner of the park was in use during Rothschild’s time.

If you’re visiting with children, look out for a series of child-friendly activities called Meet the Beasts of London (6–21 Apr). Starting daily at 11am, the programme includes craft workshops and storytelling sessions. The Tower of London (p. 34) is also hosting a celebration of the natural world, Royal Beasts. The Tower has been home to all sorts of wild and exotic animals over the centuries, including lions, tigers, alligators and bears. King John established the Royal Menagerie here in the 13th century, because it was the ideal way for the rich and powerful to show off their wealth and entertain their court. Animals were also exchanged across Europe as regal gifts. You’ll see life-sized wire sculptures of animals dotted throughout the Tower, each the work of artist Kendra Haste.

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES The Design Museum

The Guards Museum

One of the world’s leading museums of contemporary design and architecture. From 26 Apr: Stanley Kubrick: The Exhibition. Commemorating 20 years since his death, explore the design story behind the director’s work through original props, costumes, set models and rare photographs. Discover the filmmaker’s love for England, where he shot the likes of Full Metal Jacket and 2001: A Space Odyssey (p. 14). To 5 May: David Adjaye: Making Memory. A look at the work of the British-Ghanaian architect, exploring both finished and current monument projects. Daily 10am-6pm; first Fri every month 10am-8pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.designmuseum.org. 224-238 Kensington High St, W8 6AG. T: 020-3862 5900. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

Learn about the history, stories and heritage of the five regiments of the Foot Guards: Grenadier, Coldstream, Scots, Irish and Welsh Guards, which today watch over the Royal Palaces. Daily 10am-4pm. Adult £8; child free. www.theguardsmuseum.com. Wellington Barracks, Birdcage Walk, SW1E 6HQ. T: 020-7414 3271. D5. Station: St James’s Park/Westminster.

Horniman Museum & Gardens See the collection of the adventurous Victorian tea trader, Frederick John Horniman, including an aquarium and a huge selection of musical instruments, plus gardens and a farmers’ market every Saturday morning. To 23 Jun: Sea Nomads. Photographer James Morgan highlights the lives of the Bajau Laut, some of the last true marine nomads. To 27 Oct: Brick Wonders. More than 50 LEGO models depict the world’s most impressive sights, from Old London Bridge to a coral reef. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Admission free; charges for aquarium and special exhibitions. www.horniman.ac.uk. 100 London Rd, SE23 3PQ. T: 020-8699 1872. Off map. Station: Forest Hill.

The Fan Museum

Highlighting contemporary fashion, textiles and jewellery from 1947 to the present day. To 2 Jun: Swinging London: A Lifestyle Revolution. This exhibition celebrates the work of the darlings of the ‘Chelsea Set’, homeware designer Terence Conran and fashion legend Mary Quant, as well as their counterparts in the fields of architecture, photography and art during the years 1952-1977. Tue-Wed & Fri-Sat 11am-6pm; Thur 11am-8pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £9.90; child free. www.ftm london.org. 83 Bermondsey St, SE1 3XF. T: 0207407 8664. F11. Station: London Bridge.

Florence Nightingale Museum Located in St Thomas’ Hospital, learn about the work of the pioneering 19th-century British nurse and health reformer. The museum includes items relating to the Crimean War and nursing artefacts. It also tells the story of Jamaican-born nurse Mary Seacole. To 16 Jun: Spanish Flu. This exhibition is set in a World War I field hospital and explores a pandemic that infected as much as half of the world. Free 15-min tour daily 3.30pm & Sat-Sun 11.30am. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £8; child £4. www.florencenightingale.co.uk. 2 Lambeth Palace Rd, SE1 7EW. T: 020-7188 4400. F8. Station: Waterloo/Westminster.

The Foundling Museum Britain’s original home for abandoned children, founded in 1739 by Thomas Coram, William Hogarth and George Frideric Handel. Jacqueline Wilson set her Hetty Feathers series in the Foundling Hospital and a portrait of the children’s author was recently added to the collection. To 5 May: Bedrooms of London. Photographer Katie Wilson presents her work, which highlights the sleeping conditions of London’s children living below the poverty line. Please check for regular exhibitions and events. Tue-Sat 10am5pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £10; child free. www.foundlingmuseum.org.uk. 40 Brunswick Square, WC1N 1AZ. T: 020-7841 3600. C8. Station: Russell Square.

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Household Cavalry Museum

Having a scream

If you’re a fan of Edvard Munch, you’ll be pleased to discover that you can save yourself a trip to Norway, as Oslo’s Munch Museum has loaned almost 50 prints to The British Museum for Edvard Munch: Love and Angst (from 11 Apr; p. 44). These include a rare lithograph of one of the world’s most recognisable pieces of art, The Scream, which is sure to make the exhibition popular. The Oslo prints are accompanied by loans from around Europe and The British Museum’s own collection, in a display that highlights Munch’s gift for capturing the spectrum of human emotions. Munch died in Oslo in 1944, having lived through a period of monumental change in Europe, as well as numerous high-octane love affairs. In other words, this show will fizz with high drama.

The Garden Museum See artefacts, a replica 17th-century knot garden and exhibitions related to garden design. The museum was set up to save an abandoned church. To 28 Apr: Emma Tennant: A Botanical Tour of Great Britain from the Scillies to Sutherland. A celebration of Tennant’s watercolour paintings. Sun-Fri 10.30am-5pm; Sat 10.30am-4pm; closed first Mon of the month. Adult £10; child £2.50. www.gardenmuseum.org.uk. Lambeth Palace Rd, SE1 7LB. T: 020-7401 8865. F5. Station: Lambeth North/Westminster.

Go behind the scenes to see the ceremonial duties and roles of the Household Cavalry Regiments. Through a large glazed partition, you can see troopers working with horses in the original 18th-century stables, as well as rare treasures on display. Changing the Queen’s Life Guard on Horse Guards Parade Mon-Sat 11am; Sun 10am. Museum daily 10am-6pm. Adult £8.50; child £6.50. www.householdcavalrymuseum.co.uk. Horse Guards, Whitehall, SW1A 2AX. T: 020-7930 3070. E7. Station: Westminster/Embankment.

Imperial War Museum Huge displays relating to global conflicts from World War I to contemporary confrontations, particularly those involving Britain. Don’t miss the powerful Holocaust Exhibition, and the art collection in the First World War Galleries. 2, 4, 9, 11, 16 & 18 Apr: We Were There: Meets Veterans and Eyewitnesses. Families have an opportunity to meet war veterans and eyewitnesses, including those who lived through World War II and the Cold War, to hear their personal stories of conflict. Drop-in 11am-1pm. Suitable for all ages. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for some exhibitions. www.iwm.org.uk. Lambeth Rd, SE1 6HZ. T: 020-7416 5000. F9. Station: Lambeth North.

Jewish Museum Documenting Jewish history and culture in the UK from 1066 to today, including a representation of the East End’s Jewish immigrant quarter. The Holocaust Gallery displays a harrowing collection of photographs and accounts. To 23 Jun: Great British Jews. Exhibition celebrating Jewish immigrants who have made a significant difference to the lives of British people. To 7 Jul: Jews, Money, Myth. Discover the ideas, myths and stereotypes that link Jews and money over the course of 2,000 years. Sat-Thur 10am-5pm; Fri 10am-2pm. Adult £7.50; child £3.50. www.jewishmuseum.org.uk. Raymond Burton House, 129-131 Albert St, NW1 7NB. T: 0207284 7384. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

THE SCREAM BY EDVARD MUNCH © PRIVATE COLLECTION, NORWAY/PHOTO BY THOMAS WIDERBERG

Fashion and Textile Museum

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Unusual museum dedicated to the art of fans, with examples from the 12th century to the present day. Afternoon tea is served in the orangery. Tue-Sat 11am-5pm; Sun noon-5pm. Adult £5; child £3. www.thefanmuseum.org.uk. 12 Crooms Hill, SE10 8ER. T: 020-8305 1441. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark.

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TATE BRITAIN

27 M A R – 11 AU G 2019

THE E Y E XHIBITION

P I M L I CO u F R EE F O R TAT E M E M B ER S With additional support from the Van Gogh Exhibition Supporters Circle, Tate International Council and Tate Members Media partner Vincent van Gogh Self-Portrait Autumn 1889 (detail) National Gallery of Art, Washington. Collection of Mr and Mrs John Hay Whitney, 1998.74.5

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

The restored former home of Frederic, Lord Leighton is a museum of his life and work. See paintings, drawings and sculptures, plus the Arab Hall adorned with tiles from the Middle East. Wed-Mon 10am-5.30pm; 3pm tour every Wed and Sun. Adult £9; child free. www.rbkc.gov.uk. 12 Holland Park Rd, W14 8LZ. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: Kensington Olympia.

London Film Museum Bond in Motion is the largest official exhibition of James Bond vehicles that feature in the film series, including the Aston Martin DB5, Goldfinger’s Rolls-Royce and the Crocodile Submarine. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £14.50; child £9.50. www.london filmmuseum.com. 45 Wellington St, WC2E 7BN. T: 020-7836 4913. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

London Transport Museum Located in the Grade II-listed former Flower Market, this museum displays the story of London’s transport system. Highlights include red buses, the world’s first underground steam train and the padded cell – a train carriage dating back to the 1890s. The Digging Deeper exhibition charts the history of tunnel-digging across the capital, from Brunel’s pioneering work in the mid-19th century to London’s current Crossrail project. To 22 Apr: The Secret Life of a Megaproject. Behind the scenes of Crossrail, Europe’s biggest infrastructure and engineering project, which will be known as the Elizabeth Line when the underground route opens. To 14 Jul: The Poster Prize for Illustration 2019: London Stories. See the work of this contest’s 100 finalists. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £17.50; child free. www.ltmuseum.co.uk. Covent Garden Piazza, WC2E 7BB. T: 020-7379 6344. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Mandela: The Official Exhibition

Museum of London

This worldwide tour has picked Waterloo’s exhibition tunnels for its debut. It tells Nelson Mandela’s life story through a series of themed zones and displays artefacts including his possessions from Robben Island prison. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £15; child £13.50. www.mandelaexhibition.com. 26 Leake St, SE1 7NN. T: 020-7928 4944. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Museum of Brands

DID YOU KNOW? Norman Foster designed

The world’s largest urban history museum has thousands of exhibits in nine galleries, including Roman and Medieval London, transporting you through the capital’s tumultuous history up to the present day. From 5 Apr: Beasts of London. Discover the animals that used to live in the city via this digital ‘safari’ (p. 45). Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions and walking tours. www.museum oflondon.org.uk. 150 London Wall, EC2Y 5HN. T: 020-7001 9844. D10. Station: Barbican.

The British Museum’s More than 12,000 items from the ceiling. This courtyard is Robert Opie Collection, revealing the largest covered Museum of London how lives have changed over the public square in Europe Docklands past 200 years through iconic Discover the history of the River consumer brands. To 22 Jun: Thames, from its time as a Roman Pack the Future. Recent projects thoroughfare to the regeneration of the Docklands undertaken to improve the sustainabilty of area. 9, 13 & 14 Apr: Morse Code Masters. These craft packaging, by the likes of supermarket giant workshops allow children to try communicating Tesco. Mon-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun & bank hols using Morse code; noon & 2.30pm. Daily 10am-6pm. 11am-5pm. Adult £9; child £5; under-sevens free. Admission free, charges for special exhibitions. www.museumofbrands.com. 111-117 Lancaster Rd, www.museumoflondon.org.uk. T: 020-7001 9844. W11 1QT. T: 020-7243 9611. Off map. Station: Off map. Station: West India Quay. Ladbroke Grove.

The Museum of Freemasonry English Freemasonry emerged in the 1700s and is celebrated at this museum and library located within Covent Garden’s monolithic Freemasons’ Hall. Its exhibition, Bejewelled: Badges, Brotherhood and Identity, presents an array of beautiful Masonic badges. Mon-Sat 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.freemasonry.london.museum. Freemasons’ Hall, Great Queen St, WC2B 5AZ. T: 020-7395 9257. D8. Station: Holborn/Covent Garden.

SWINGING KENSINGTON Not many decades get as much love as the Sixties, especially in this city. One of the figures at the centre of things during that era was fashion designer Mary Quant. Quant supercharged UK youth culture from the 1950s onwards with miniskirts and trousers for women. The Victoria and Albert Museum is celebrating this cultural earthquake with Mary Quant (from 6 Apr; p. 50). Alongside sketches, photographs, garments and accessories, the V&A is displaying artefacts submitted by members of the public, which should make this exhibition relatable. With its blockbuster show Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams also open at the moment, this South Kensington museum is heaven for fashionistas.

National Army Museum Interactive displays and exhibitions telling the story of soldiers’ lives from Tudor times to the present day. To 9 Jun: Call in the Cavalry. The histories and uniforms of the British Army’s Hungarian-inspired hussar regiments. Daily 10am-5.30pm and until 8pm on 3 Apr. Admission free; charges for exhibitions. www.nam.ac.uk. Royal Hospital Rd, SW3 4HT. T: 020-7730 0717. Off map. Station: Sloane Square.

National Maritime Museum Get up close to the objects that made history – from iconic maritime exhibits to great British art – at the world’s largest maritime museum in Greenwich. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free; charges for guided tours, events and exhibitions. www.rmg.co.uk. Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 0208858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich/Cutty Sark.

Natural History Museum Astounding collections at this museum, with exhibits ranging from the Images of Nature gallery, to dinosaur skeletons and fossils. To 30 Jun: Wildlife Photographer of the Year. See this year’s shortlist of 100 entries. Daily 10am-5.50pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nhm.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 5BD. T: 0207942 5000. F4. Station: South Kensington.

The Postal Museum See exhibits exploring postal history, including old post boxes, uniforms and weapons used to protect the delivery service. Take a ride on the Mail Rail, a train in the underground tunnels that was used to transport post for 75 years until 2003. Daily 10am-5pm. Museum only: Adult £11; child free. Museum and Mail Rail: Adult £17.05; child £10.45. www.postalmuseum.org. 15-20 Phoenix Place, WC1X 0DA. T: 030-0030 0700. C8. Station: Russell Square.

Queen’s House Located in the heart of Greenwich, this beautiful royal villa was designed by Inigo Jones and is a masterpiece of 17th-century architecture. These days, you can enjoy its spectacular art, architecture and royal history. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free; charge for guided tour. www.rmg. co.uk. Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark.

THE BRITISH MUSEUM © ISTOCK; MODEL HOLDING A BAZAAR BAG IN 1959 © MARY QUANT ARCHIVE

Leighton House Museum

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Royal Air Force Museum National aviation museum focusing on the RAF, with more than 100 outstanding aircraft on show. The newly redesigned site now includes two galleries, landscaped grounds, picnic areas and a children’s playground. 8-22 Apr: Animal Easter Trail. Find the hidden animals and win a chocolate prize; £3 per child. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special experiences. www.raf museum.org.uk. Grahame Park Way, NW9 5LL. T: 020-8205 2266. Off map. Station: Colindale.

SPENCER HOUSE

London’s most magnificent eighteenth-century aristocratic palace

Science Museum A huge, family-friendly museum dedicated to science, technology and medical achievements. There’s a Red Arrows 3D flight simulator, an IMAX theatre showing 3D science films, Stephenson’s Rocket and the Apollo 10 command module. To 6 May: The Sun: Living with our Star. See objects that demonstrate how the sun has been harnessed by humans. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.science museum.org.uk. Exhibition Rd, SW7 2DD. T: 0333241 4000. F4. Station: South Kensington.

Sherlock Holmes Museum Famous address dedicated to the fictional detective where, according to the novels, he lived with his friend and colleague Dr Watson from 1881 until 1904. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £15; child £10. www.sherlock-holmes.co.uk. 221b Baker St, NW1 6XE. T: 020-7224 3688. C5. Station: Baker Street.

Sir John Soane’s Museum

Open to the public for guided tours on Sundays. On June 2nd, 16th & 30th we will be opening the grounds for our Garden Open Days. Group tours are available on Sundays and during the week.

This 19th-century townhouse and library was +44 (0) 20 7514 1958 | tours@spencerhouse.co.uk | www.spencerhouse.co.uk owned by the distinguished architect Sir John 27 St James’s Place, London, SW1A 1NR Soane, which he left to the nation in 1837 and has been untouched since. Wed-Sun & bank hols, 10am-5pm. Check for tours and late-night opening events. Admission free. www.soane.org. 13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields, WC2A 3BP. T: 020-7405 2107. *20/02/2019 11:41 SPENCER HOUSE_WL_THIRDP.indd 4 D8. Station: Holborn.

KIDS GO FREE BOOK NOW FINAL WEEKS

Somerset House This neo-classical building on the Thames houses the Embankment Galleries, cafés and restaurants, all surrounding a large courtyard. 6-14 Apr: Now Play This. Showcase for experimental game design (p. 22). Galleries Wed-Fri 11am-8pm; Sat-Tue 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.somersethouse.org.uk. Strand, WC2R 1LA. T: 020-7845 4600. E8. Station: Temple.

Twinings Museum The flagship store of Twinings since 1706 has a mini exhibition reflecting the company’s 300-year history. See vintage teapots and caddies. Mon-Fri 9.30am-7pm; Sat 10.30am-5.30pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Admission free. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.

V&A Museum of Childhood Charming museum with a national collection of childhood objects dating back to the 16th century. To 22 Apr: A Pirate’s Life for Me. This fun exhibition guides children from an inn on the coast to a tropical island filled with treasures. Daily 10am-5.45pm. Admission free. www.vam.ac.uk/moc. Cambridge Heath Rd, E2 9PA. T: 020-8983 5200. Off map. Station: Bethnal Green.

‘BLAZING WITH HOT SCIENCE AND CULTURAL RICHES’ Nature

The Vault Located under the old Coutts Bank, this vault was originally used to protect the Queen’s treasures. Now part of Hard Rock Cafe, it’s home to rock ‘n’ roll memorabilia. Daily 11.30am-10.30pm. Admission free. www.hardrock.com. Hard Rock Cafe London, 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 020-7514 1700. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

*See website for terms and conditions Very Nice by Rafael Alonso, 2018,commissioned for the exhibition The Sun: Living with Our Star. © Science Museum Group

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

The Wallace Collection The former Wallace family home displays their beautiful collection of Rococo art, sculpture, furniture and suits of armour. To 23 Jun: Henry Moore: The Helmet Heads. This exhibition positions the late British sculptor’s helmet-inspired sculptures next to the Renaissance-era armour that inspired them. Free tours on selected dates. Daily 10am5pm. Admission free. www.wallacecollection.org. Hertford House, Manchester Square, W1U 3BN. T: 020-7563 9500. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Wellcome Collection Wellcome Trust’s public venue houses hundreds of artefacts relating to health and the body. From 11 Apr: Smoke and Mirrors: The Psychology of Magic. The museum investigates why we love to be tricked (p. 44). Tue-Wed & Fri-Sat 10am-6pm; Thur 10am-10pm; Sun 11am-6pm. Admission free. www.wellcomecollection.org. 183 Euston Rd, NW1 2BE. T: 020-7611 2222. C7. Station: Euston.

Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum & Tours At the venue of the Championships, the museum’s displays range from old trophies and rackets to tennis kits worn by recent champions. Daily 10am5pm. Museum only adult £13, child £8; museum & tour adult £25, child £15. One free child with every full-price adult ticket. www.wimbledon.com. All England Lawn Tennis Club, Church Rd, SW19 5AE. T: 020-8946 6131. Off map. Station: Southfields then bus 493 or a 12-minute walk.

World Rugby Museum This showcase for global rugby culture is located in the South Stand at Twickenham Stadium. Tue-Sat & selected bank hols 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm; no tours 5-6 Apr. Museum adult £12.50, child £7.50; museum and stadium tour adult £25, child £15. www.worldrugbymuseum.com. Twickenham Stadium, Whitton Rd, TW2 7BA. T: 020-8892 8877. Off map. Station: Twickenham.

GALLERIES Guildhall Art Gallery Paintings collected by the City of London, plus a Roman Amphitheatre. Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun noon-4pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.cityoflondon. gov.uk. Guildhall Yard, off Gresham St, EC2V 5AE. T: 020-7332 3700. D10. Station: St Paul’s/Bank.

Hayward Gallery

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Raise the roof What comes to mind when you think of Wimbledon? Strawberries and cream, or pouring rain? Following the addition of a retractable roof to Centre Court, the British home of tennis has now installed one at No. 1 Court. The story of this is revealed in a new exhibition, No. 1 Court Project, at the Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum.

House of Illustration

Royal Society of Sculptors

The UK’s only public gallery dedicated solely to illustration. To 12 May: Corita Kent: Power Up. Screen prints that combine marketing slogans and religious scripture. Tue-Sat 10am-5.30pm; Sun 11am-5.30pm. Adult £7.50; child £4. www.houseofillustration. org.uk. 2 Granary Square, N1C 4BH. T: 020-3696 2020. Off map. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

This hub for professional sculptors hosts regular exhibitions and workshops. Mon-Fri 11am-5pm. Admission free. www.sculptors.org.uk. 108 Old Brompton Rd, SW7 3RA. T: 020-7373 8615. Off map. Station: Gloucester Road.

One of the world’s greatest galleries. To 7 Jul: Sorolla: Master of Light. See the Impressionist’s sundappled pieces. Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nationalgallery.org.uk. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7747 2885. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

This gallery in Kensington Gardens has modern and contemporary exhibitions. To 19 May: Emma Kunz. Geometric drawings by the late Swiss healer. Tue-Sun & bank hols 10am-6pm; building open between exhibitions, but there is not a permanent collection. Admission free. www.serpentine galleries.org. Kensington Gardens, W2 3XA. T: 020-7402 6075. E4. Station: South Kensington.

National Portrait Gallery

Southbank Centre

The National Gallery

Works depicting British people in paintings, drawings and photographs. To 27 May: Only Human: Martin Parr. This British photographer is known for his depictions of British society. Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.npg. org.uk. St Martin’s Place, WC2H 0HE. T: 020-7312 2463. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

The Photographers’ Gallery London’s largest gallery devoted to photography. To 2 Jun: Deutsche Börse Photography Foundation Prize. Images by this year’s four finalists. Check for times and prices. www.thephotographersgallery. org.uk. 16-18 Ramillies St, W1F 7LW. T: 0207087 9300. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

DID YOU KNOW?

The Queen’s Gallery

Treasures from the Royal Collection. To 28 Apr: Russia: Royalty & the Romanovs. The bond The National Portrait between the British and Russian Gallery has the only royal families. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Shakespeare portrait Adult £12; child £6. www.rct.uk/ painted from queensgallerylondon. Buckingham real life Palace, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7301. F7. Station: Green Park.

The home of visual arts at the Southbank Centre. To 6 May: Diane Arbus: In the Beginning. Photographs depicting New York’s marginalised communities. Mon, Wed & Fri-Sun 11am-7pm; Thur 11am-9pm. Free admission; charges for certain exhibitions. www.southbankcentre.co.uk. Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-3879 9555. E8. Station: Waterloo.

Serpentine Gallery

Royal Academy of Arts Admire Royal Academy works in all media. To 2 Jun: The Renaissance Nude. See how nudity was depicted in the 15th and 16th centuries. Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-10pm; check for special events. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.royal academy.org.uk. 6 Burlington Gardens, W1J 0BD. T: 020-7300 8000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Sprawling arts centre. To 2 Jun: Soundpit. Di Mainstone’s child-friendly exhibition in the Royal Festival Hall invites visitors to consider what music looks and feels like, via sandpits illuminated by projections; £8. Check online for the full programme, as well as times and prices. www.southbankcentre. co.uk. Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-7928 3232. E8. Station: Waterloo.

Tate Britain The nation’s leading collection of British art from 1500 to today, including the world’s largest collection of works by Turner. To 11 Aug: The EY Exhibition: Van Gogh and Britain. Exploring how van Gogh’s love for Britain influenced his art. To 6 May: Don McCullin. See hundreds of the photojournalist’s images, ranging from his famous depictions of conflict to travel, documentary and still-life work. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8888. G8. Station: Pimlico.

Tate Modern World-class, international modern art in the transformed Bankside Power Station. To 6 May: Pierre Bonnard: The Colour of Memory. Celebrating the late French painter, this collection of works demonstrates his talent for conveying the briefest of emotional moments. To 9 Jun: Dorothea Tanning. Survey of the surrealist’s 70-year career including Chambre 202, Hotel du Pavot, an installation featuring bodies growing out from walls. Sun-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri-Sat 10am-10pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Bankside, SE1 9TG. T: 020-7887 8888. E9. Station: Southwark.

WIMBLEDON © AELTC

The V&A’s outstanding collection of fine and applied arts spans 3,000 years and includes fashion, paintings, photographs and ceramics. From 6 Apr: Mary Quant. Focus on the iconic British fashion designer (p. 48). To 14 Jul: Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams. Dramatic haute couture, original sketches and perfume bottles demonstrate the label’s influence. Sat-Thur 10am-5.45pm; Fri 10am-10pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.vam.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 2RL. T: 020-7942 2000. F4/5. Station: South Kensington.

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Victoria and Albert Museum

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ENTERTAINMENT A

long-standing musical starring Frasier actor Kelsey Grammer is returning to London, this time at the London Coliseum (from 26 Apr; p. 54). Man of La Mancha is loosely based on the novel Don Quixote by Miguel de Cervantes – one of Spain’s greatest writers, and a contemporary of William Shakespeare (they died within a day of one another). The novel was published in two parts, in 1605 and 1615, and influenced a play made for TV in 1959, which in turn inspired a 1965 award-winning Broadway musical. It stars the Emmy Award-winning actor Grammer as the lead – playing Miguel de Cervantes and Don Quixote – alongside international opera star Danielle de Niese (Les Misérables) as Aldonza and Dulcinea. This show-within-a-show tells a tale of knighthood, love and loyalty, with themes of madness and reality. Director Lonny Price, who was behind Sunset Boulevard at the

London Coliseum, says of this production: ‘I think it’s inspiring. We could use some heroes right about now, for people to say “fight the unbeatable foe and dream the impossible dream”.’ Produced by Michael Linnit and Michael Grade – who worked on Chess, Carousel and Sweeney Todd – the musical includes hit songs such as Dream the Impossible Dream, performed by the English National Opera’s orchestra. The show is set in a 16th-century dungeon as Cervantes and his servant await trial for treason from the Spanish Inquisition. As prisoners attempt to steal Cervantes’ possessions, he begins to act out his unfinished novel, Don Quixote, transforming himself into a knight called Quijano. As he becomes increasingly deluded, he renames himself Don Quixote de la Mancha, and sets off on an adventure with his servant Sancho Panza, with comical results. SARAH RICHES Entertainment Editor

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‘ It stars the Emmy Award-winning actor Kelsey Grammer’

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THE MUSIC AL

P H E N O M E NO N

QUEEN’S THEATRE Original Production Until 13th July

GIELGUD THEATRE

All-Star Staged Concert From 10th August to 30th November

QUEEN’S THEATRE

The Acclaimed New Production Opens in December

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MUSICALS & PERFORMANCES Aladdin This West End hit features tunes such as A Whole New World. Please check for times. Tickets £27.25-£99.75. www.aladdinthemusical.co.uk. Prince Edward Theatre, Old Compton St, W1D 4HS. T: 0844-482 5151. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

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Making a splash

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ENTERTAINMENT

Semi-naked dancers frolic in 7,500 litres of water on a flooded stage at Sadler’s Wells. Award-winning choreographer Damien Jalet collaborates with the Japanese experimental sculptor Kōhei Nawa to create Vessel (16-17 Apr; p. 59), resulting in an abstract performance inspired by the fact that our bodies are predominantly made up of water.

All in a Row From 19 Apr: This celebration of jazz musician Fats Waller is set in 1920s Manhattan. 3pm & 7.30pm. Tickets £16-£27.50. www.southwarkplayhouse.co.uk. 77-85 Newington Causeway, SE1 6BD. T: 020-7407 0234. F10. Station: Elephant and Castle.

Come from Away Residents of a Canadian island host 7,000 stranded passengers after the 9/11 terrorist attacks. Check for times. Tickets £24-£108. www.phoenixtheatre london.co.uk. Phoenix Theatre, 110 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0JP. T: 0843-316 1082. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Everybody’s Talking About Jamie Musical about a bullied teenager. Check for times. Tickets £20-£85. www.everybodystalkingaboutjamie. co.uk. Apollo Theatre, 31 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. T: 0330-333 4809. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus. Set in the 1700s, this award-winning hip-hop musical is based on Ron Chernow’s biography of the USA’s founding father, Alexander Hamilton. Please check for times and prices. www.hamiltonthemusical.co.uk. Victoria Palace Theatre, Victoria St, SW1E 5EA. T: 0844-482 5138. F6. Station: Victoria.

Les Misérables The world’s longest-running musical is set in post-revolutionary France. Please check for times. Tickets £42.25-£177.25. www.lesmis.com. Queen’s Theatre, 51 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 6BA. T: 0844482 5160. D8. Station: Leicester Square.

The Lion King Adaptation of the popular Disney film with ingenious costumes and puppetry. Please check for times. Tickets £23-£200.25. www.thelionking. co.uk. Lyceum Theatre, 21 Wellington St, WC2E 7RQ. T: 0844-871 3000. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Mamma Mia! A tribute to the popular music of ABBA, with a feel-good story set on a Greek island. Mon-Sat 7.45pm; Thur & Sat 3pm. Tickets £27.25-£127.25. www.mamma-mia.com. Novello, Aldwych, WC2B 4LD. T: 0844-482 5115. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

ON THE BIG SCREEN Watch clips from Toy Story, A Bug’s Life, Finding Dory and more as an orchestra plays songs from the films during Pixar Live in Concert at the Eventim Apollo (16 Apr). www.eventimapollo.com

Man of La Mancha From 26 Apr: A comical farce about a

The Phantom of the Opera

deluded ‘knight’, starring Kelsey Grammer (p. 52). Please check for times and prices. www.eno.org. 33 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4ES. T: 020-7845 9300. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Gothic drama about a masked man who haunts the Paris Opera House. Please check for times. Tickets £25-£175. www.thephantomoftheopera.com. Her Majesty’s Theatre, 57 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QL. T: 0844-412 2707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Matilda the Musical

Rip It Up

Based on Roald Dahl’s children’s book about a girl with magic powers. Check for times. Tickets £25-£122. www.matildathemusical.com. Cambridge Theatre, 32-34 Earlham St, WC2H 9HU. T: 0844-412 4652. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

The ultimate boy-band musical, starring Aston Merrygold (JLS) and Jay McGuiness (The Wanted). Check for times. Tickets from £25. www.garrick theatre.org. Garrick Theatre, 2 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0HH. T: 0844-482 9673. E7/8. Station: Leicester Square.

Motown the Musical To 20 Apr: Feel-good musical based on Motown Records, which launched many famous careers. Please check for times and prices. www.shaftesburytheatre.com. Shaftesbury Theatre, 210 Shaftesbury Ave, WC2H 8DP. T: 020-7379 5399. D8. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

9 to 5 The Musical Dolly Parton musical about three women who seek revenge on their sexist boss. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. £25-£15. www.9to5the musical.co.uk. Savoy Theatre, Strand, WC2R 0ET. T: 0844-871 7687. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

School of Rock: The Musical Andrew Lloyd Webber’s musical, about a struggling guitarist who tries to inspire his students to become rock stars. This is a fun show for all ages. Please check for times. Tickets £15-£150. www.schoolofrockthemusical.com. Gillian Lynne Theatre, 166 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PF. T: 020-7452 3000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Sweet Charity From 6 Apr: Set in New York, 1967, Charity Hope Valentine is a dance-hall hostess who tries to find love. Please check for times and prices. www.donmarwarehouse.com. Donmar Warehouse, 41 Earlham St, WC2H 9LX. T: 0844-871 7624. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Only Fools and Horses: The Musical

Thriller Live

Comedy musical based on the TV sitcom. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£100. www.trh. co.uk. Theatre Royal Haymarket, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HT. T: 020-7930 8800. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Non-stop songs and dance celebrate the career of the late Michael Jackson. Enjoy songs from his solo career and The Jackson 5. Check for times and prices. www.thrillerlive.com. Lyric Theatre, 29 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. T: 0844-482 9674. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

PREVIOUS PAGE: KELSEY GRAMMER COURTESY OF LONDON COLISEUM; DANIELLE DE NIESE © CHRIS DUNLOP; LONDON COLISEUM © GUILLAUME DE LAUBIER. THIS PAGE: VESSEL © YOSHIKAZU INOUE; PIXAR COURTESY OF EVENTIM APOLLO;

Hamilton

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ENTERTAINMENT Tina: The Tina Turner Musical

The Comedy About a Bank Robbery

The Mousetrap

Hit musical based on the life of Anna Mae Bullock, aka Tina Turner, with hits including the 1984 song What’s Love Got to Do with It? Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £10-£149.50. www.tinathe musical.com. Aldwych Theatre, 9 Aldwych, WC2B 4DF. T: 0845-200 7981. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Six incompetent crooks are desperate to get hold of a diamond. Please check for times. Tickets £10£73.75. www.the comedyaboutabankrobbery.com. Criterion Theatre, 218-223 Piccadilly, W1V 9LB. T: 0844-815 6131. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

A murderer strikes at a party in Agatha Christie’s long-running whodunnit. Please check for times and prices. www.the-mousetrap.co.uk. St Martin’s Theatre, West St, WC2H 9NZ. T: 0844-499 1515. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

Jenna, a waitress and pie-maker, dreams of escaping her small town and rocky marriage. Please check for times. Tickets £19.50-£135. www.waitressthemusical. co.uk. Adelphi Theatre, 409-412 Strand, WC2R 0NS. T: 0844-579 0094. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Wicked The brilliant backstory of the witches of Oz with the hit tunes Defying Gravity and Popular. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £24.25-£202.75. www.wickedthemusical.co.uk. Apollo Victoria Theatre, 17 Wilton Rd, SW1V 1LG. T: 0844-871 3001. F7. Station: Victoria.

Pah-La

The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night-Time To 27 Apr: An autistic

boy investigates a dog’s death. Check for times and prices. www.piccadilly theatre.org. Piccadilly Theatre, 16 Denman St, W1D 7DY. T: 0844-871 7630. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Emilia

3-27 Apr: Drama based on events during

DID YOU KNOW? The Mousetrap is the longest-running play in London – it’s been running for more than 66 years

The story of Emilia Bassano, thought to be the muse of Shakespeare’s sonnets. Check for times and prices. www.vaudevilletheatre.co.uk. Vaudeville, 404 Strand, WC2R 0NH. T: 0330-333 4814. E8. Station: Charing Cross/ Covent Garden.

Faulty Towers: The Dining Experience

PLAYS All About Eve Gillian Anderson stars in this classic tale about an established actress and an ambitious younger star in the making. Please check for times and prices. www.delfontmackintosh.co.uk. Noël Coward Theatre, St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4AU. T: 0844-482 5140. E8. Station: Leicester Square.

All My Sons From 13 Apr: Arthur Miller’s classic

drama. Please check for times. Tickets £12-£65. www.oldvictheatre.com. The Old Vic, The Cut, SE1 8NB. T: 0844-871 7628. F9. Station: Waterloo.

Betrayal Tom Hiddleston stars in Harold Pinter’s play, charting a compelling seven-year romance. Please check for times and prices. www.atgtickets.com. Harold Pinter Theatre, Panton St, SW1Y 4DN. T: 0844-871 7622. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Seventies-style dining and interactive comedy combine in this theatrical experience based on the cult TV comedy. Please check for times. Tickets £75-£80. www.faultytowers-uk.com. Radisson Blu Edwardian, 9-13 Bloomsbury St, WC1B 3QD. T: 0845-154 4145. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

A German Life From 6 Apr: Maggie Smith portrays the life

of Brunhilde Pomsel, who was personal secretary to Joseph Goebbels. Please check for times. Tickets £15-£69.50. www.bridgetheatre.co.uk. Bridge Theatre, 3 Potters Field Park, SE1 2SG. T: 0333-320 0051. E11. Station: London Bridge.

Grief Is the Thing with Feathers To 13 Apr: Two young boys face the sadness of their mother’s sudden death. Stars Cillian Murphy (Peaky Blinders). Please check for times and returns. www.barbican.org.uk. Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 8891. C10. Station: Barbican.

Harry Potter and the Cursed Child Harry now works for the Ministry of Magic, but his youngest son grapples with the legacy he never really wanted. Please check for returns and times. www.harrypottertheplay.com. Palace, 113 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 5AY. T: 0300-333 4813. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

SON OF A GUN Arthur Miller’s Tony Award-winning drama All My Sons, which premiered on Broadway in 1947, comes to The Old Vic (from 15 Apr). Based on a true story, it follows Kate and Joe as their elder son is missing in action. Meanwhile, Joe’s former business partner Steve is in prison for selling defective plane parts. But is Steve to blame, or Joe? And if Joe is at fault, can their younger son marry Steve’s daughter? Starring Sally Field (Lincoln, Forrest Gump) and Bill Pullman (Independence Day).

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the 2008 Lhasa riots (p. 59). Check for times and prices. www.royalcourt theatre.com. Royal Court, Sloane Square, SW1W 8AS. T: 020-7565 5000. G6. Station: Sloane Square.

The Play That Goes Wrong

Slapstick comedy about a drama society staging a murder mystery. Please check for times. Tickets £20-£72. www.theplaythatgoeswrong.com. Duchess Theatre, 3-5 Catherine St, WC2B 5LA. T: 0844-482 9672. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

The Price To 27 Apr: David Suchet stars in Arthur Miller’s play about two brothers who meet after 16 years. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2pm. Tickets £14.75-£127.25. www.delfontmackintosh. co.uk. Wyndham’s, Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0DA. T: 0844-482 5120. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Witness for the Prosecution Based on Agatha Christie’s gripping murder trial, this play is staged in a former courtroom. Check for times. Tickets from £10-£79.50. www.witnesscounty hall.com. County Hall, Belvedere Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0844-815 7141. F8. Station: Waterloo.

The Woman in Black A lawyer visits a remote house to settle affairs after a woman’s death. Please check for times. Tickets £21.50-£52. www.thewomaninblack.com. Fortune Theatre, Russell St, WC2B 5HH. T: 0844-871 7626. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

CONCERTS: CLASSICAL Cadogan Hall 3 & 17 Apr: St Matthew’s Passion (Bach). www.cadogan hall.com. 5 Sloane Terrace, SW1X 9DQ. T: 0207730 4500. G6. Station: Sloane Square.

Royal Albert Hall 17 Apr: Alfie Bow. 19 Apr: Messiah on Good Friday (Handel). 23 Apr: Classic FM Live. www.royalalbert

hall.com. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212. G4. Station: South Kensington.

Royal Festival Hall 2 & 7 Apr: St Matthew’s Passion (Bach). 9 Apr: Anoushka Shankar. 15 Apr: Missa Solemnis

(Beethoven). www.southbankcentre.co.uk. Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-3879 9555. E8. Station: Waterloo.

St Martin-in-the-Fields Church Extensive programme of lunchtime and evening recitals. www.smitf.org. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

CONCERTS: POP, JAZZ & WORLD Jazz Cafe 12 Apr: Jazz Jamaica. 15 Apr: A Night of Aretha. 16 Apr: Dawn. 21 Apr: Dimitri from Paris. Please

check for times and prices. www.thejazzcafe london.com. 5 Parkway, NW1 7PG. T: 0844-847 2514. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

SALLY FIELD © JOHN RUSSO 2018

Waitress

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‘BELIEVE THE HYPE’ NEW YORK POST

THE MUSICAL #BeMoreMatilda

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MatildaTheMusical.com CAMBRIDGE THEATRE, London, WC2H 9HU

08/03/2019 16:22

A NEW PLAY BY

SIMON STEPHENS

BASED ON THE BEST-SELLING NOVEL BY

MARK HADDON

DIRECTED BY

MARIANNE ELLIOTT

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ENTERTAINMENT London Palladium 22 Apr: The Songs of Queen. Starring Tom Chaplin.

Please check for times. Tickets £45.50-£73. www.lwtheatres.co.uk. Argyll St, W1F 7TF. T: 0844412 2704. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

The O2 1-11 Apr: Drake. 6 Apr: UB40. 16-19 Apr: Shawn Mendes. www.theo2.co.uk. Peninsula Square, SE10 0AX. T: 0844-856 0202. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

In the heart of Leicester Square

Ronnie Scott’s 1-2 Apr: Sly & Robbie. 8-12 Apr: Eric Bibb. 16-18 Apr: John Mayall. 24-27 Apr: Kyle Eastwood Band.

www.ronniescotts.co.uk. 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Royal Albert Hall 1 Apr: Mike & the Mechanics. 16 Apr: ABC. 21 Apr: Rufus Wainwright. www.royalalberthall.com. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212. G4.

South Kensington.

DANCE Royal Opera House To 11 Jun: Romeo and Juliet (Tchaikovsky). www.roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Sadler’s Wells 16-17 Apr: Vessel. Striking dance piece (p. 54).

www.sadlerswells.com. Rosebery Ave, EC1R 4TN. T: 020-7863 8000. Off map. Station: Angel.

Last minute & discount theatre tickets

Peacock Theatre 16-27 Apr: My First Ballet: Sleeping Beauty. www.peacocktheatre.com. Portugal St, WC2A 2HT. T: 020-7863 8222. Off map. Station: Angel.

OPERA PAH-LA © NIALL MCDIARMID

London Coliseum To 12 Apr: Jack the Ripper: The Women of Whitechapel (Iain Bell). To 12 Apr: The Magic Flute (Mozart). www.eno.org. 33 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4ES. T: 020-7845 9300. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Royal Opera House From 11 Apr: Faust (Gounod). From 23 Apr: Billy

Budd (Britten). www.roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

PRESSURE POINT A controversial play that the Royal Court Theatre was advised to drop in 2018 is set to return. Indian playwright Abhishek Majumdar is behind Pah-La (3-27 Apr; p. 56), about a woman in a Tibetan village who runs away to become a Buddhist nun. The British Council was accused of censorship after saying the play should be pulled, due to potential damage to UK–China relations.

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‘ Coal Drops Yard is not a traditional mall, but a true shopping destination’

homas Heatherwick has made the capital cool. He introduced the new-style Routemaster bus, The Rolling Bridge in Paddington and now he has transformed a district in King’s Cross into Coal Drops Yard. Established in 1850, this site used to house eight million tonnes of coal. Now, with its slick design, rich ironwork and original Victorian coal drops, it is one of the city’s most exciting shopping areas. As the internet has transformed the way we shop and contributed to the decline of

sales on the high street, Heatherwick knew he needed to create something that is much more than just a shopping destination. Set in the historical buildings and arches near Granary Square and Regent’s Canal, this isn’t a traditional mall, but a shopping street – there are no cars and the best way to enter is along a towpath, which leads to a cobbled courtyard and canalside shops. The focus is on accessibility, a community spirit and contemporary design.

Heatherwick says: ‘It has been a huge privilege working on Coal Drops Yard, not only because it’s the studio’s first major building completed in London, but also because it’s in King’s Cross, where my studio has been based for the past 17 years.’ The makeover sees it welcoming more than 50 businesses, including restaurants and cafés. Paul Smith, Wolf & Badger, Cubitts and Fred Perry are just some of the brands here. There are also independent ones such as Boutique by Shelter, a charity shop specialising in vintage clothes, and Finisterre, a Cornish brand focusing on ethical fashion. With Lower Stable Street – an area dedicated to pop-up shops and

COAL DROPS YARD © JOHN STURROCK

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SHOPPING

MAJOR SHOPPING AREAS

Selfridges

Bond Street Home to designer boutiques, antiques, art and jewellery, plus auction houses Sotheby’s and Bonhams. D6/E6/E7. Station: Bond Street.

Carnaby Here you can find sports-inspired stores as well as edgy designers. D7/E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Covent Garden This former fruit and vegetable market is now a popular centre for arts, crafts and souvenir stalls. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Hatton Garden

Flagship boutique with a collection of clothes, bags and shoes. www.alexandermcqueen.co.uk. 4-5 Old Bond St, W1S 4PD. T: 020-7355 0088. E7. Station: Green Park.

Savile Row One of London’s most famous areas for men’s tailoring, especially suits. E7. Station: Green Park.

MAJOR STORES Fortnum & Mason

Alexander McQueen

Burberry Find a classic trench coat by this famous British label. It also offers a monogramming service. www.burberry.com. 121 Regent St, W1B 4TB (and branches). T: 020-7806 8904. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

DID YOU KNOW?

Chanel

Chanel exudes style and class in all of its designs and products, from Liberty opened in 1875, after fashion to skincare. www.chanel.com. Arthur Lasenby Liberty 158-159 New Bond St, W1S 7UB borrowed £2,000 from (and branches). T: 020-7493 5040. his father-in-law E6. Station: Green Park.

This British institution, which was established in 1707, is famed for its food hall. Mon-Sat 10am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.fortnum andmason.com. 181 Piccadilly, W1A 1ER. T: 0845300 1707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Hamleys Huge toy shop spread over seven floors, with high-tech and retro toys. There are children’s entertainers, too. Check for times. www.hamleys.com. 188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT. T: 0871-704 1977. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Harrods Magnificent Edwardian food and meat halls, as well as a great range of fashion, cosmetics, a spa, bars and numerous restaurants. Mon-Fri 10am-9pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.harrods.com. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

John Lewis & Partners Find fashion labels, homeware and electricals. Check for times. www.johnlewis.com. 300 Oxford St, W1A 1EX (and branches). T: 020-7629 7711. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Liberty Famous for its prints and haberdashery department. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.liberty. co.uk. Great Marlborough St, W1B 5AH. T: 0207734 1234. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Gucci One of the world’s most desirable brands, with legendary Italian quality. www.gucci.com/uk. 18 Sloane St, SW1X 9NE (and branches). T: 020-7235 6707. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

MALLS & FACTORY OUTLETS Bicester Village Find discount designer clothes at this relaxed haven in Oxfordshire. Please check for opening times. www.bicestervillage.com. Bicester Village, Bicester, Oxfordshire, OX26 6WD. T: 01869-323 200. Off map. Station: Bicester Village, from London Marylebone. There is also a bus pick-up service from major London hotels.

ICON Outlet New venue for fashion and lifestyle shopping, with restaurants and bars, plus personal shoppers. Please check for times. www.iconattheo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2000. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

Westfield London This mall has high-street names and luxury brands, plus KidZania, a centre where children can play while parents shop. www.westfield.com/london. Ariel Way, W12 7GF. T: 020-3371 2300. Map inset. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81

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Running from Burlington Gardens to Piccadilly, this Regency arcade contains specialist shops. Each morning it opens with a gate ceremony. Mon-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat 9am-6.30pm; Sun 11am-5pm. www.burlington-arcade.co.uk. Burlington Arcade, W1J 0QJ. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

King’s Road

Europe’s busiest shopping street has major department stores, plus high-street chains. D6/D7. Station: Oxford Circus/Bond Street/ Marble Arch.

KOHINOOR SAHOTA Shopping Editor

Burlington Arcade

FASHION

Oxford Street

workshops – opening, it will always feel like a new shopping experience. While you’re there, don’t forget to take in the beauty of Heatherwick’s design: no two stores are designed the same and the ‘kissing’ rooftop is a particular highlight. He says of it: ‘We’ve been excited by the opportunity to use our design thinking to finally open up the site, create new spaces and allow everyone to experience these characterful buildings.’

LUXURY ARCADES

This hidden historic corner of London is home to the jewellery trade and the centre of the diamond industry. C9/D9. Station: Farringdon. This iconic street attracts a polished crowd; look out for the quirky shops at World’s End. Duke of York Square bustles with restaurants, clothes shops and a food market. G4. Station: Sloane Square.

Coal Drops Yard

This is the largest shop on Oxford Street: visit for the finest products in beauty and fashion. Look out for the public art on display throughout the store. Mon-Sat 9.30am-10pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.selfridges.com. 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 0800-123 400. D6. Station: Bond Street.

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Arthur Lasenby Liberty, the founder of Liberty, spent many years travelling to the East to gain inspiration. The store’s haberdashery department is steeped in history, spanning more than 100 years. Visit for beautiful items, from wallets to notebooks, adorned in decorative prints. Regent St, W1B 5AH. T: 020-7734 1234 www.libertylondon.com

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Karen Millen Ted Baker Apple Store Accessorize OK STR Lacoste RAMILLIES PL EET Longchamp Canada Goose Victoria’s Secret HANOVER S H&M T Fenwick Anya Hindmarch Molton Brown BROOK Montblanc ’S MEW 7 For All Mankind ARKET S Geneu N Aquascutum D&G Tory Burch GROSVE Boss NOR SQ COS Emporio Armani Liberty Furla Agent Provocateur Hobbs Mulberry Pal Zileri T Desigual GROSVE Barker NOR STR X SShoes Canali F. Pinet O Gap EET TUMI D Camper AD M AD D OX S T Goat M Fashion Kipling Breitling Oliver Sweeney Vivienne Westwood Bally The East India Coach Belstaff MOUNT Company Coach ROW Stuart Weitzman Schaffhausen G R O S V E NIWC John Varvatos OR HILL Smythson Hamleys Church’s Yohji Yamamoto T T E Hackett Vivienne E E Fendi ELululemon STR Westwood MAN R N O D T MOUNT BOUR Polo Ralph Lauren S MCM Jovoy Mayfair Bose ST IT Hublot Delvaux E D U LaliqueNEW BURLINGTON PLACE PLAC Rigby & Peller N N O Boss T BRU CO Giuseppe Zanotti BROADWICK ST Jimmy Choo Levi’s Tory Burch Temperley London Michael Kors Vivienne Reiss Miu Miu POLO Westwood Calvin Klein Kenzo LaurenST T Burberry D S T R E E T Ralph Guess TON NEW BURLING REE Hermès OR J.Crew N ST Anthropologie CLIFF O T & Paul Smith Watches of Switzerland COACH S BRU Massimo Dutti ET HORSE CHANEL Maje Paris STRE YARD BEAK Louis Vuitton Karl Lagerfeld Brooks Brothers D ST Boucheron C L I F F O R Timberland N Patek Philippe Tommy HilfigerG O L DE UNOde50 De Grisogono Mappin & Webb ON ST G R A F TAsprey Sandro Paris Georg Jensen Adler Bulgari Harry Winston PL Chopard REGENT E Blancpain Zara Home TM Lewin SQUAR Bregeut Penhaligon’s Folli Follie Chaumet Van Cleef & Arpels NEW CAVE NDISH ST Cartier Burberry Graff ILL EET Boodles H AY H STR Open for more than Ralph Lauren ER Mikimoto VIGO ST Mango EW N GDNS R O T G B David Morris N I Reiss 300 years, this is one B U R L BURLINGTON ARCADE GL Mulberry England Tiffany & Co. A Superdry SH MossSBros. Salvatore Ferragamo CHANEL of London’s most Chatila UniqloO U S Jo Malone QUEEN ANNE STREET DKNY ROYAL ARCADE ST Bottletop E S Max Mara iconic department DENMAN UGG Australia Calleija Nirav Modi Hollister R E Stefanel T R E Akris Prada ET L’Occitane stores. Famous for its Penhaligon’s Hunter E T Saint Laurent Wolford Omega Barbour food can Lotus W I Gand M O tea, R E Syou TREET The Highlands Gucci Daks also buy personalised Kiehl’s La Perla Jimmy Pepe Coccinelle Marina Rinaldi Fairly Jeans Dolce & Gabbana Champagne bottles. PICCADILLY Piquadro Whittard Alexander McQueen CIRCUS of Chelsea Cartier 181 Piccadilly, W1A Tod’s Dover St De Beers Mappin & Webb Market 1ER. T: 020-7734 H E N R I E T TA P Barbour LACE Cath Kidston International GREEN 8040. www.fortnum TUMI PARK Fortnum Prestat Ritz Fine & Mason andmason.com Jewellery Penhaligon’s B RLinks O of London

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SHOPPING Westfield Stratford City This massive mall has 270 shops, a cinema, casino, bars, restaurants and plenty of outdoor spaces. www.westfield.com/stratfordcity. 2 Stratford Place, E20 1EJ. T: 020-8221 7300. Map inset. Station: Stratford.

JEWELLERY & WATCHES David Morris This esteemed British brand offers beautiful couture designs, hand-crafted to the highest standards. www.davidmorris.com. 180 New Bond St, W1S 4RL. T: 020-7499 2200. E7. Station: Green Park.

A FAB TIME If you’re a fan of the Fab Four, the London Beatles Store is a must. Autographs, T-shirts, badges, guitar straps and mugs are just some of the items you can find here. Open seven days a week, the staff are experts on all things Beatles, so much so that they can also assist you if you’re after tours or tickets, too. 231/233 Baker St, NW1 6XE. T: 020-7935 4464. www.beatlesstorelondon.co.uk

Links of London Find jewellery and watches with high-quality designs. There is an engraving service, too. www.linksoflondon.com. 491 Oxford St, W1A 2LR. T: 020-7491 2371. D5. Station: Bond Street.

Pandora The range of modern jewellery includes charm bracelets that you can build. www.pandora.net. 257-259 Oxford St, W1C 2DD. T: 020-7407 2007. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

KIDS’ STORES LEGO Store

Outstanding collection of LEGO merchandise of all varieties, featuring a ‘Pick and Build’ wall and a Big Ben made from the bricks. www.lego.com/ en-gb/stores. 3 Swiss Court, W1D 6AP. T: 020-7839 3480. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

SPECIALIST STORES Buckingham Palace Shop Royal souvenirs, including jewellery and cups. Mon-Sat 9.30am-5pm. www.royalcollectionshop. co.uk. 7 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7839 1377. E6. Station: Victoria.

Japan Centre Huge outlet for matcha, fans, ceramics and specialist ingredients from Japan. There is also traditional food and ingredients. Check for opening times. www.japancentre.com. 35b Panton St, SW1Y 4EA. T: 020-3405 1246. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

London Glassblowing Pick up a beautiful souvenir at Peter Layton’s popular Bermondsey studio, gallery and shop.

You can even book a class to try glassblowing yourself. www.londonglassblowing.co.uk. 62-66 Bermondsey St, SE1 3UD. T: 020-7403 2800. F11. Station: London Bridge/Bermondsey.

Twinings One of the capital’s oldest shops – trading since 1706 – stocks a huge variety of teas, infusions and teapots. Enjoy a free tea tasting session. Daily, check for times. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.

We Built This City Quirky souvenir shop with a twist on classic items. Look out for artworks, including illustrations of London icons and maps. Please check for times. www.webuilt-thiscity.com. 56-57 Carnaby St, W1F 9QF. T: 020-3642 9650. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

SHOPPING ESSENTIALS SIZING GUIDE UK

TAX-FREE SHOPPING

Euro

WOMEN’S CLOTHES

TEAPOT COURTESY OF LONDON BEATLES STORE; SHOPPER AND ARCADE © ISTOCK

XS S M L

6 8 10 12 14 16

2 4 6 8 10 12

34 36 38 40 42 44

Value Added Tax (VAT) is a 20 per cent sales tax added on all goods except food, books and children’s clothing. Overseas visitors from outside the EU can shop tax-free in the UK, recouping some of the cost of the item. Don’t forget to ask in-store for more information about tax-free shopping.

MEN’S CLOTHES (CHEST) S M L

34 36 38 40 42 44

44 46 48 50 52 54

CHILDREN’S CLOTHES 4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10-11 12-13 14-15

4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10 12 13

110cm 116-122 128-134 140-146 152-158 164-170

Normal opening times for most shops are Mon-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 11am-5pm unless stated otherwise. Some shops may stay open until 9pm on Thursdays for late-night shopping. www.wheretraveler.com 63

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DINING ‘Dishes are simple, yet manage to surprise: think beer bread and miso butter potatoes’

ew restaurant Hicce (pronounced ‘ee chay’) has all the right ingredients even before you sit down to eat: a celebrity chef and a hip location. The modern British restaurant is led by Pip Lacey, former head chef of Angela Hartnett’s Michelin-starred Mayfair restaurant, Murano. Its name (Latin for ‘current, in the moment’) is suitably apt as the restaurant is in one of London’s hottest areas: Coal Drops Yard, a former Victorian coal store and now a collection of around 50 independent boutiques, cafés and restaurants. You’ll find Hicce above the designer shop

Wolf & Badger, with large arched windows overlooking Granary Square. Exposed brick walls and industrial piping on the ceiling are a nod to its past but otherwise, Hicce ticks all the boxes for a modern restaurant: counter seating at the bar, an open kitchen and plants dotted about. Dishes are grilled, smoked on a wood fire or cooked over holm oak charcoal. After starting with cheese, charcuterie and pickles, try its signature dish: hot sticks (skewers) served on ceramic dishes. Other dishes are simple, yet manage to surprise – think beer bread, miso butter

potatoes and deep-fried sprouts. And I bet you’ve never had pork collar, leeks, dates and sherry cream before. Just save space for the pineapple, coriander and coconut sorbet. Cocktails also feature unusual ingredients such as yuzu purée, cloudberry liqueur and pandan, a fragrant South East Asian plant. Sake and biodynamic wines are also on the menu – ensuring you’ll have a great time. Coal Drops Yard, N1C 4AB. T: 020-3869 8200. www.hicce.co.uk

SARAH RICHES Dining Editor

HICCE COURTESY OF COAL DROPS YARD

Hicce

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THREE OF THE VERY BEST INDIAN RESTAUR ANTS This award winning sophisticated with an innovative twist, in a theatrical open kitchen setting. Michelin star. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Halkin Arcade (Entrance via Lowndes St) Belgravia, London SW1X 8JT T: 020 7823 1166 E: info@amaya.biz Private dining room seats 14

The rich setting, interesting art and romantic candle lighting are secondary details in Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s haven of great Indian contemporary food. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week; weekend brunch with live music. 73 St Jamesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Street, London SW1A 1PH T: 020 7629 6688 E: info@chutneymary.com Two private dining rooms seat 30 and 16

Classical dishes, lovingly prepared and beautifully served in sumptuous surroundings overlooking Regent Street. The oldest Indian restaurant in the world has a Michelin star. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 1st floor 99 Regent Street, London W1B 4RS T: 020 7734 1401 E: info@veeraswamy.com Private dining room seats 24

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DINING

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REVIEW

A cut above the rest

Plush and intimate, The English Grill at The Rubens at the Palace hotel is home to myriad indulgences. Sink into a velvet armchair as you browse the seasonal menu, which may feature Orkney king scallops with chorizo and smoked Applewood cheese; black pudding Scotch egg with wild mushroom and truffle ketchup; or Himalayan salt-aged British T-bone, with a signature Madeira and truffle sauce. For the grand finale, opt for the crêpe Suzette, soaked in citrus liqueur and flambéed at your table. Save time to visit the sultry and spotted Leopard Bar, which boasts lengthy Champagne and whisky lists and a resident swing band.

‘‘ Fenchurch Restaurant

Goodman Premium New York steakhouse with US and British beef, dry-aged and hand-cut in-house. ££££. Mon-Sat L & D (and branches). www.goodman restaurants.com. 24-26 Maddox St, W1S 1QH. T: 020-7499 3776. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Hard Rock Cafe London’s legendary burger joint, with rock memorabilia and a fun atmosphere. Try jumbo wings, nachos and hickory-smoked ribs. ££. Daily L & D. www.hardrock.com. 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1LB. T: 020-7514 1700. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

JW Steakhouse Quality steakhouse serving dry-aged USDA prime beef. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.jwsteakhouse. co.uk. Grosvenor House Hotel, 86 Park Lane, W1K 7TL. T: 020-7399 8460. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Planet Hollywood

This smart venue just beneath the top of the ‘Walkie Talkie’ has great views, and serves British seafood and lamb. £££. Daily L & D. www.skygarden.london. 20 Fenchurch St, EC3M 8AF. T: 0333-772 0020. E11. Station: Monument.

Great Court Restaurant Enjoy lunch or afternoon tea above the museum’s iconic Reading Room, under the domed roof. ££. Daily L; Fri D. www.britishmuseum.org. British Museum, Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8990. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Holborn.

The Montagu Kitchen Modern hotel brasserie offering seasonal dishes, weekend brunches, afternoon teas and a chef’s table. It is inspired bythe National Trust’s Chartwell House and Garden in Kent – Winston Churchill’s former home. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.the montagurestaurant.co.uk. Hyatt Regency London – The Churchill, 30 Portman Square, W1H 7BH. T: 020-7299 2037. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

DID YOU KNOW?

The Russian prima ballerina Anna Pavlova danced at The Ritz in 1912, six years after it opened

Hollywood-inspired dining experience with film memorabilia and an international menu. ££. Daily L & D (bar to 1am). www.planethollywoodlondon.com. 57-60 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QX. T: 020-7287 1000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Rainforest Cafe Busy all-day dining in a mock rainforest setting, with pasta, salads and chargrilled chicken. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.therainforestcafe.co.uk. 20 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7EU. T: 020-7434 3111. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

BRITISH (MODERN) Darwin Brasserie Dine on level 36 of the ‘Walkie Talkie’, with spectacular views. ££-£££. Daily B & D; Mon-Fri L. www.skygarden.london. 20 Fenchurch St, EC3M 8AF. T: 0333-772 0020. E11. Station: Monument.

Rex Whistler Restaurant

Originally opened in 1927, this arty restaurant has a mural and serves roast beef. ££. Daily L. www.tate. org.uk. Tate Britain, Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8825. G8. Station: Pimlico.

Sophie’s Steakhouse The Soho branch of this modern steakhouse has an open kitchen and a large covered terrace at the front. ££. Daily L & D. www.sophiessteak house.com. 42-44 Great Windmill St, W1D 7ND (and branch). T: 020-7836 8836. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

St Pancras by Searcys This ornate dining room in the Eurostar terminal also has a long Champagne bar. ££-£££. Daily B, L & D. www.stpancrasbysearcys.co.uk. Upper Concourse, St Pancras Station, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

BRITISH (TRADITIONAL) Café in the Crypt Underneath a landmark church, this brick-vaulted café serves English dishes at reasonable prices. £. Mon-Sat B, L & D; Sun 11am-6pm. www.smitf.org. St Martin-in-the-Fields, off Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1158. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Cheneston’s This wood-panelled dining room has Victorian leaded windows. The menu is classic, with dishes such as venison. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.milestone hotel.com. The Milestone Hotel, 1 Kensington Court, W8 5DL. T: 020-7917 1000. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington. D7. Station: Charing Cross.

The English Grill Grand hotel restaurant with chandeliers and high ceilings. ££££. Daily B, L, D. www.rubenshotel.com. The Rubens at the Palace, 39 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PS. T: 020-7834 6600. F6. Station: Victoria.

The Palm Court This grand lounge has palms, mirrored screens and trees. Order afternoon tea in the conservatory. Check for opening times. ££. www.ihg.com. Kimpton Fitzroy London, 1-8 Russell Square, WC1B 5BE. T: 020-3797 7282. C8. Station: Russell Square.

The Ritz Restaurant Enjoy classic British dishes in a beautiful room. Men should wear a jacket and tie. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.theritzlondon.com. The Ritz, 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7300 2370. E7. Station: Green Park.

Rules Plush, 200-year-old restaurant where the likes of Charles Dickens ate. ££££. Daily L & D. www.rules.co.uk. 35 Maiden Lane, WC2E 7LB. T: 020-7836 5314. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Vivi With seasonal dishes and afternoon tea, it’s a great place for people-watching. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.vivirestaurant.co.uk. Centre Point, 11 St Giles Square, WC2H 8AP. T: 020-8812 3200. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

THE ENGLISH GRILL © JACK HARDY

AMERICAS (NORTH & SOUTH)

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Exceptional dining, elegant dÃ©cor, unique experiences, imaginative cocktails, live music and generous hospitality.

RUBENSHOTEL.COM

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DINING

This contemporary restaurant on the fifth floor of Harrods serves dishes such as Chilean sea bass. ££££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D (until 8pm). www.chaiwu. co.uk. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-3819 8888. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Hakkasan This fashionable, Michelin-starred restaurant serves modern Cantonese dishes. ££££. Daily L & D; Thur-Sat to midnight. www.hakkasan.com. 8 Hanway Place, W1T 1HF (and Mayfair branch). T: 020-7927 7000. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN 1 Lombard Street This brasserie, with a huge glass dome, serves dishes such as grilled kippers, caramelised duck, and sausages with mustard mash. £££. Mon-Fri B, L & D. www.1lombardstreet.com. 1 Lombard St, EC3V 9AA. T: 020-7929 6611. D10. Station: Bank.

Galvin at Windows Michelin-starred rooftop restaurant with a daily-changing menu. Booking essential. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L; Mon-Sat D. www.galvinat windows.com. Hilton on Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208 4021. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Ting This restaurant in The Shard serves Asian-influenced dishes. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.shangri-la.com/ london. Shangri-La, The Shard, 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8108. F10. Station: London Bridge.

FISH AND SEAFOOD Neptune Try the exceptional seafood platter and oysters in this Grade II-listed hotel restaurant. £££. Daily B & D; Wed-Sat L. www.ihg.com. Kimpton Fitzroy London, 1-8 Russell Square, WC1B 5BE. T: 0203797 7282. C8. Station: Russell Square.

The Sea Shell Order sustainably sourced fish and chips at this decades-old restaurant, which has an aquarium. ££. Mon-Sat L & D. 49-51 Lisson Grove, NW1 6UH. T: 020-7224 9000. www.seashellrestaurant.co.uk. C5. Station: Marylebone.

FRENCH

‘‘

A taste of Turkey

A graduate of Leiths School of Food and Wine, who’s also behind a top restaurant in Istanbul, has returned to set up Yeni in Soho. Chef Civan Er says: ‘Yeni draws influences from the Silk Road’s ethnicities, which unite on the streets of my home town.’ So, you can taste Georgian-inspired manti (dumplings), chargrilled meat with Algerian influences, Moorish spices and goat’s milk from Persia. Save some space for kadajifi, a super-sweet pudding with smoked buffalo milk ice cream, and try a cocktail made with raki and cherries. The restaurant itself is decorated like a ‘meyhane’ (a Turkish tavern with glass chandeliers) by Istanbul artists. 55 Beak St, W1F 9SH. T: 0203475 1903. www.yeni.london

Céleste

Veeraswamy

Michelin-starred hotel dining room. Try the Atlantic sea bass topped with seaweed crust. £££-££££. Daily B, L & D. www.lanesborough.com. The Lanesborough, Hyde Park Corner, SW1X 7TA. T: 020-7259 5599. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

The UK’s oldest Michelin-starred Indian restaurant has an opulent interior and signature dishes such as patiala lamb shank. £££. Daily L & D. www.veera swamy.com. Victory House, 99 Regent St, W1B 4RS. T: 020-7734 1401. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

INDIAN Amaya This Michelin-starred restaurant has an open kitchen and serves tapas-style dishes, grilled or tandoor baked. £££. Daily L & D. www.amaya.biz. Halkin Arcade, Lowndes St, SW1X 8JT. T: 020-7823 1166. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.

Benares Michelin-quality Indian dishes. ££££. Mon-Sat L & D; Sun D. www.benaresrestaurant.com. 12a Berkeley Square House, Berkeley Square, W1J 6BS. T: 020-7629 8886. E6. Station: Green Park.

Chutney Mary Enjoy a gourmet tour of India, with traditional dishes served in a modern style. £££. Daily L & D. www.chutneymary.com. 73 St James’s St, SW1 1PH. T: 020-7629 6688. E7. Station: Green Park.

Gaylord

Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester Smart venue with superb Michelin-starred cuisine. ££££. Tue-Fri L & D; Sat D. Booking essential. www.alainducasse-dorchester.com. The Dorchester, Park Lane, W1K 1QA. T: 020-7629 8866. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

This North Indian restaurant, which is still going strong after 50 years, is renowned for its thalis. ££. Daily L & D. www.gaylord london.com. 79-81 Mortimer St, W1W 7SJ. T: 020-7580 3615. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Brasserie Joël This brasserie serves classics such as beef bourguignon. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L & D; daily D. www.brasserie joel.co.uk. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7272. F8. Station: Waterloo/Westminster.

Brasserie Zédel Bustling French brasserie. £-££. Daily L & D. www.brasserie zedel.com. 20 Sherwood St, W1F 7ED. T: 020-7734 4888. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

DID YOU KNOW? Rules opened in 1798 and it has spanned the reigns of nine monarchs

Masala Zone A vibrant restaurant which serves street food, thalis and regional curries. ££. Daily L & D (and branches). www.masalazone.com. 9 Marshall St, W1F 7ER. T: 020-7287 9966. D8. Station: Oxford Circus.

Tamarind Try one of the tasting menus in the recently refurbished surroundings. £££. Daily L & D. www.tamarind restaurant.com. 20 Queen St, W1J 5PR. T: 020-7629 3561. E6. Station: Green Park.

INTERNATIONAL Bbar South African-inspired restaurant and bar serving biltong and rib-eye steaks. It has live music Thursday to Saturday and a terrace. ££. Daily L & D. www.bbar london.com. 43 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7958 7000. F6. Station: Victoria.

The Cavendish Two-floor restaurant serving dishes such as black pudding Scotch eggs and truffle oil flatbreads. ££-£££. Daily B, L & D. www.35newcavendish.co.uk. 35 New Cavendish St, W1G 9TR. T: 020-7487 3030. D6. Station: Baker Street.

The Terrace This hotel restaurant and bar, with tall ceilings and chandeliers, serves salads, burgers, Italian dishes and small plates. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.ambahotel.com. Amba Hotel Charing Cross, The Strand, WC2N 5HX. T: 0800-330 8397. E8. Charing Cross.

ITALIAN Ask Italian Informal restaurant with pizzas, pasta and tempting desserts. ££. Daily L & D. www.askitalian.co.uk. 41-43 Spring St, W2 1JA (and branches). T: 020-8115 7091. D4. Station: Paddington.

Cicchetti Lively, all-day dining with small plates of regional dishes. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.sancarlo cicchetti. co.uk. 30 Wellington St, WC2E 7BD (and branches). T: 020-7494 9435. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Verdi Italian Kitchen Dine on stone-baked pizzas or afternoon tea in this Victorian music hall, with free live music on Fridays. ££. Tue-Sun L & D. www.verdiitalian.com. Door 12, Royal Albert Hall, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7070 4401. F4. Station: South Kensington.

YENI COURTESY OF YENI; RULES COURTESY OF RULES

Chai Wu

‘‘

CHINESE

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ENJOY THE THALI AT ...for shops, restaurants, theatre bookings

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b.org BAYSWATER, 75 BISHOPS BRIDGE RD COVENT GARDEN, 48 FLORAL ST SELFRIDGES 4TH FL, 400 OXFORD ST EARLS COURT, 147 EARLS COURT ROAD

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The Cafe in the Courtyard St Martin-in-the-Fields

Take a break from a busy day of sightseeing and enjoy some London sunshine at the Café in the Courtyard. This seasonal outdoor café is located in the terrace just behind the church of St Martin-inthe-Fields, Trafalgar Square. Open daily from 8am (11am on Sundays), the Café in the Courtyard serves a delightful range of hot and cold drinks, pastries, baguettes, paninis, salads and soup throughout the day and in the evening there are scrumptious platters to share and a full wine list. The Café in the Courtyard is open until 9pm until the end of September and 5pm in October before it closes for the season.

El Pirata

Café in the Courtyard, St Martin-in-the-Fields, WC2N 4JJ Station: Charing Cross Email: café@smitf.org www.smitf.org

For more than 20 years, El Pirata has hit the spot as London’s top restaurant for traditional Spanish tapas. Located in the heart of Mayfair, it’s the perfect place for a true taste of the Mediterranean in a chic yet friendly setting. It’s informal, inexpensive and above all, authentic: the restaurant uses the finest Spanish produce, including jamón Ibérico, to create its classic dishes. Celebrity fans such as Brian May and Johnny Depp, as well as food critics, are unanimous in their praise, describing it as a ‘Spanish gem’ (Zagat) with ‘surprisingly good prices’ (Harden’s), and ‘a favourite with Mayfair’s Spanish community and converts to the new Iberian cause’ (Square Meal ). Mon-Fri noon-11.30pm; Sat 6pm-11.30pm; closed Sun. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AQ. T: 020-7491 3810/020-7409 1315. www.elpirata.co.uk. Station: Hyde Park Corner/Green Park

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DINING Mango Tree

Benihana As chefs grill dishes at your table, they flip ingredients in their hats, shout and tap their spatulas – fun for kids. Try the Wagyu beef. £££. Daily L & D. www.benihana.co.uk. 37 Sackville St, W1S 3EH (and branches). T: 020-7494 2525. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Sakagura The menu at this izakaya-style Japanese ’pub’ is designed to be shared, so order drinks alongside small plates of authentic ‘soul’ food. ££. Daily L & D. www.sakaguralondon.com. 8 Heddon St, W1B 4BS. T: 020-3405 7230. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

RIVERSIDE Bateaux London See London’s sights on a river cruise while enjoying modern British cuisine. £££. Daily L & D cruises; Sun L with jazz. www.bateauxlondon.com. Embankment Pier, WC2N 6NU. T: 020-7695 1800. E8. Station: Embankment.

The London Showboat Lunch aboard this boat, or enjoy afternoon tea or dinner with live jazz. £££-££££. Booking essential. Departs Westminster Pier. www.citycruises.com. Westminster Pier, SW1A 2JR. T: 020-7740 0400. F8. Station: Westminster.

R.S. Hispaniola Delightful moored restaurant boat on the River Thames serving British cuisine. Try the pork steak with Calvados sauce, or savoury poached pear. £££. Daily L & D. www.hispaniola.co.uk. Victoria Embankment/Hungerford Bridge, WC2N 5DJ. T: 020-7839 3011. E8. Station: Embankment.

SOUTH EAST ASIAN Chi Kitchen Enjoy pan-Asian cuisine in a huge Debenhams department store and watch the chefs at work in an open kitchen. There’s also a Champagne bar. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.chikitchen.co.uk. 334-348 Oxford St, W1C 1JG. T: 020-3841 6888. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

REVIEW

This fine-dining restaurant near Buckingham Palace serves Thai dishes such as barbecue pork, spicy fish cakes and coconut milk soup. £££. Daily L & D. www.mangotree.org.uk. 46 Grosvenor Place, SW1X 7EQ. T: 020-7823 1888. F6. Station: Victoria.

Time for

TEA

Thai Pot This casual spot offers good-value dishes such as stir-fried beef, fish cakes and sticky rice. £. Mon-Sat L & D. www.thaipot.biz. 1 Bedfordbury, WC2N 4BP. T: 020-7379 4580. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

SPANISH El Pirata This popular Mayfair restaurant has been serving tapas for 25 years, including suckling pig, octopus and ham croquettes. ££-£££. Mon-Fri L & D; Sat D. www.elpirata.co.uk. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AG. T: 020-7491 3810. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Moro Weekly-changing menu of Moorish dishes, such as wood-roasted chicken and charcoal-grilled brill, or yoghurt cake with pistachios. £££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D. www.moro.co.uk. 34-36 Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QE. T: 020-7833 8336. C9. Station: Farringdon.

NATIONAL THEATRE Afternoon tea at the National Theatre’s House restaurant has a Follies musical theme. Have a New York pretzel flavoured with beer mustard, then white chocolate éclairs and strawberry-rose cheesecake inspired by the show’s glittery costumes. South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3600. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk

VEGETARIAN & VEGAN The Gate Gourmet vegan and veggie dishes including miso-glazed aubergine and spiced potato chaat. ££. Daily L & D; Sat & Sun B. www.thegate restaurants.com. 22-24 Seymour Place, W1H 7NL (and branches). T: 020-7724 6656. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

Mildreds Informal Soho institution with hearty meat-free dishes, such as mushroom and ale pie and Chinese mock duck. ££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.mildreds. co.uk. 45 Lexington St, W1F 9AN (and branches). T: 020-7494 1634. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Woodlands Huge range of veggie Indian dishes, from authentic street food to dosas and thalis. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.woodlandsrestaurant.co.uk. 77 Marylebone Lane, W1U 2PS (and branches). T: 020-7486 3862. D6. Station: Bond Street.

HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT Combine a tour of the Houses of Parliament with afternoon tea, with views of the Thames. Enjoy beef and mustard brioche, macarons and shots of saltedcaramel chocolate mousse, served on china embossed with Parliament’s logo. Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2LW. T: 020-7219 4114. www.parliament.uk

IF MUSIC BE THE FOOD

If your passions are music and food, combine them at Spiritland Royal Festival Hall Hall. This new restaurant has a 2am licence, for music lovers who also crave conversation. Order from the grill and oyster bar or share plates such as carrot m’hanncha, a stuffed pastry spiral. Guest DJs and personalities share their favourite music through the vintage speakers, too. Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-3146 1980. www.southbankcentre.co.uk

ST PANCRAS RENAISSANCE St Pancras Renaissance Hotel’s Hansom Lounge has a new Journey Around Europe tea. Relax to live harp music as you dine on salmon Dutch pancakes and Belgian choux buns, followed by a Paris-Brest pastry with a pot of tea. Euston Rd, NW1 2AR. T: 020-7841 3540. www.stpancraslondon.com

SPIRITLAND FESTIVAL HALL © LUCY RICHARDS; FOLLIES TEA COURTESY OF NATIONAL THEATRE; HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT © GAR POWELL-EVANS; ST PANCRAS RENAISSANCE © J FILIPE WIENS

JAPANESE

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O NE O F T H E M OS T E XC I T I N G N E W RE S TAU R A N T O P E N I N G S I N 2 0 1 9 ! A B E AU T I F U L B R I T I S H R E S TAU R A N T I N T H E H E A RT O F LO N D O N E N J OY A CO M P L I M E N TA RY CO C K TA I L W H E N YO U S H OW T H I S A DV E RT O N A R R I VA L FI N D US : 1 1 ST GI LE S SQUARE , LO N DO N WC2 H 8AP WW W.VI V I RE STAURAN T.CO.UK @VI V I RE STAURAN T

BY T&C : Offer valid until April 30th, 2019. Limited to one cocktail per guest based on a maximum of 6 guests dining.

An exquisite bar and restaurant in the heart of Soho serving a delicious and varied menu showcasing locally sourced vegetables and fish – along with Sophie’s famous British beef. 42-44 Great Windmill Street, W1B 7NB sophiessteakhouse.com/soho soho@sophiessteakhouse.com 020 7836 8836

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NIGHTLIFE The Magpie & Stump

Cartizze Bar

This Grade II-listed Art Nouveau pub, which opened 100 years ago, offers cask ales in an old-world setting. www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk. 174 Queen Victoria St, EC4V 4EG. T: 020-7236 5474. E9. Station: Blackfriars.

Opposite the Old Bailey, this atmospheric pub dates back to the 1500s and once doubled up as a public viewing spot for hangings at Newgate Prison. It has old fireplaces, worn rugs and brick walls. It is closed at weekends. www.magpieand stump.com. 18 Old Bailey, EC4M 7EP. T: 020-7248 5085. D9. Station: St Paul’s.

Timeless luxury Bellini and cocktail destination with an Art Deco interior and oysters on the menu. www.cartizzebar.com. 4 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Cittie of Yorke

Waxy O’Connor’s

The dark nooks and crannies, rafted roof and chimney-less fire in this Grade II-listed building take you back to 1430. Enjoy a pint of beer in this atmospheric pub for a real taste of historic London. 22 High Holborn, WC1V 6BN. T: 020-7242 7670. D9. Station: Chancery Lane.

This popular Irish bar has four bars split over six levels. It has pub food, regular live music and also screens Ireland’s major sporting events. www.waxy oconnors.co.uk. 14-16 Rupert St, W1D 6DD. T: 0207287 0255. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Blackfriar

The Dog and Duck A traditional real-ale pub with regularly changing cask beers as well as a great range of pub food and bar snacks. www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk. 18 Bateman St, W1D 3AJ. T: 020-7494 0697. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The Flask This charming 17th-century pub in a pretty location is a real step back in time. It boasts the poets Byron and Shelley as past patrons and is allegedly haunted. www.theflaskhighgate.com. 77 Highgate West Hill, N6 6BU. T: 020-8348 7346. Off map. Station: Highgate.

The French House

Waxy’s Little Sister Smaller, slightly quieter sister venue to Waxy O’Connor’s, serving traditional Irish beers and whiskies, plus a range of bar food. www.waxy oconnors.co.uk. 20 Wardour St, W1D 6QG. T: 020-7287 0255. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

BARS & CLUBS 68 and Boston Sophisticated venue with separate cocktail and wine bars. There are wines from unusual destinations including Uruguay, with bottles from just £20. There’s also a nightly food menu. www.68andboston.com. 5 Greek St, W1D 4DD. T: 020-7287 3713. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

Creative, boho types love this quirky, cosy pub in the heart of Soho: there is no music and mobile phones are discouraged. Excellent Champagnes and wine by the glass. Lunch menu Mon-Fri. www.frenchhousesoho.com. 49 Dean St, W1D 5BG. T: 020-7437 2477. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The Back Room

The George Inn

Booking Office Bar

This tucked-away, historic pub was established during the medieval period and still retains its original coaching houses. www.nationaltrust.org. uk/george-inn. 75-77 Borough High St, SE1 1NH. T: 020-7407 2056. E10. Station: London Bridge.

The ground floor of the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel has a 29m-long bar surrounded by cavernous arched ceilings and stone walls dating back to 1873. Excellent bar snacks. www.booking officebar.com. Euston Rd, NW1 2AR. T: 020-7841 3566. C7. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

The Glasshouse Stores This is a comforting old Sam Smith’s pub, serving its own ales, with wood-panelled walls and etched glass. There are plenty of nooks and crannies in which to hide away, making it a romantic spot. Try your hand at bar billiards. 55 Brewer St, W1F 9UJ. T: 020-7287 5278. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Guinea The site of an inn since 1423, this friendly venue has great Young’s ales and bar food, including steak pies. www.theguinea.co.uk. 30 Bruton Place, W1J 6NL. T: 020-7409 1728. E6. Station: Bond Street/Oxford Circus.

Located next to the Hard Rock Cafe, this fun bar displays vintage and iconic music items. Enjoy cocktails, pizzas and burgers, plus the great vibe. www.hardrock.com. 148b Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 020-7514 1700. E6. Station: Green Park.

Burlock Rum is the spirit of choice in this relaxed, Cuban-style bar, with plenty of cocktails using the Caribbean tipple and unusual ingredients. www.burlocklondon.co.uk. 31 Duke St, W1U 1LG. T: 020-7935 3303. D6. Station: Bond Street.

DID YOU KNOW? GONG Bar, located on level 52 of The Shard, is the highest hotel bar in Western Europe

BYOC At ‘Bring Your Own Cocktail’ pay £25, bring a spirit of your choice and the mixologist will create cocktails. Booking recommended. www.byoc. co.uk. 9-11 Basement, Camden High St, NW1 7JE (and branches). T: 020-3441 2424. Off map. Station: Mornington Crescent.

City Garden Bar This impressive bar, beside the roof terrace of the ‘Walkie Talkie’ building, has amazing views, a garden and free entry. www.skygarden.london. Sky Garden, 20 Fenchurch St, EC3M 8AF. T: 0333-772 0020. E11. Station: Monument.

Dukes Bar This outstanding bar is renowned for its superior Martinis. Oozing old-world charm, its lounge area is a luxurious space. www.dukeshotel.com. Dukes London, 35 St James’s Place, SW1A 1NY. T: 0207491 4840. E7. Station: Green Park.

Fitz’s This bar is as classic as it gets – think velvet shellshaped sofas and wooden panelling decorated with paintings. Great for a date. www.ihg.com. Kimpton Fitzroy London, 1-8 Russell Square, WC1B 5BE. T: 020-3797 7282. C8. Station: Russell Square.

Freedom This long-standing gay-friendly venue attracts a trendy crowd to its stylish cocktail bar and the nightclub below. www.freedombarsoho.com. 60-66 Wardour St, W1F 0TA. T: 020-7734 0071. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

GONG Bar On level 52 of the Shangri-La Hotel inside The Shard, this is one of London’s highest Champagne bars, ideal for sunset cocktails with jaw-dropping views. Reservations recommended. www.the-shard.com. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8000. F10. Station: London Bridge.

Gordon’s Wine Bar London’s oldest wine bar has been uncorking bottles since 1890 in its candlelit, stonearched basement. Get there early to grab a table. www.gordonswinebar.com. 47 Villiers St, WC2N 6NE. T: 020-7930 1408. E8. Station: Embankment.

Jack Solomons Club Ring a bell in a kiosk in Soho and you’ll be granted access to this underground bar/club, which is inspired by a boxer. 41 Great Windmill St, W1D 7NB. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

L’escale Wine Bar Sample a range of wines from around the world in this intimate venue. www.traderswine.co.uk. Ivory House, Central Basin, St Katharine Docks, E1W 1AT. T: 020-7481 3796. Off map. Station: Tower Hill.

Mews Cocktail Bar Deep leather sofas and an 18th-century chandelier set the tone for this exclusive cocktail bar, which is home to exquisite wines and fresh fruit cocktails. www.mewsofmayfair.com. 10 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Most bars open 11am-11pm, most nightclubs open 10pm-3am. The UK’s legal drinking age is 18. ID may be required. T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, Railway and Docklands Light Railway. References (A1 etc.) refer to coordinates on map p. 80-81

GONG BAR COURTESY OF SHANGRI-LA HOTEL; SAVAGE GARDEN IMAGES COURTESY OF DOUBLETREE BY HILTON LONDON – TOWER OF LONDON

TRADITIONAL PUBS

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NIGHTLIFE

‘ It’s all designed with Instagram in mind, from neon signs to injectable doughnuts’

ow that spring is in the air, where better to celebrate than outdoors? Savage Garden is a rooftop bar atop the DoubleTree by Hilton London – Tower of London, set 12 storeys above street level. Floor-to-ceiling windows mean that wherever you sit you’ll enjoy 360-degree views of the Tower of London and Tower Bridge, The Shard, the ‘Walkie Talkie’ and the ‘Gherkin’ – but when the sun’s shining, make a move to grab seats on one of its two large outdoor terraces. There are banquettes on the south terrace, which is a real suntrap, while the Wildside terrace has a retractable roof and is sheltered from the breeze. Everything’s

designed with Instagram in mind, from a sexy neon ‘Is This Just Fantasy’ sign to urban artwork on menus offering honey miso aubergine in pink buns, squid sticks mounted on gold-sprayed pineapple tops and do-it-yourself injectable doughnuts. The main bar has a blue marble counter that’s reminiscent of the Thames, marbleeffect emerald-green stools and mirrors on the ceiling. Elsewhere, there are orange velvet banquettes, golden lighting and stained glass that all glow at sunset. Cocktails are expensive, but worth it. Each comes with a local story, such as the Flambard Colada, which is named after the medieval prisoner Ranulf

Flambard, who managed to escape from the Tower of London after getting his guards drunk. Served in a crushed metallic cup, it’s a blend of Champagne, rum, pineapple and cucumber. If you’re after social media hits, then make sure you order the signature Devil’s Advocate, a mix of tequila, crème de cassis and grapefruit juice. Like in Mexico, it comes with chilli, lemon and sugar around the rim, and it’s decorated with ‘devil horns’ (blow-torched chillis). A resident DJ plays from Wednesday to Saturday and there’s occasional live music. 7 Pepys St, EC3N 4AF. T: 020-7709 1043. www.savagegarden.co.uk

SARAH RICHES Nightlife Editor

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NIGHTLIFE

‘‘

Green oasis

REVIEW

Charing Cross Road is one of the city’s most chaotic locations, with its jumble of theatregoers and black cabs. Now, however, the area has a calm perch above the bustle: B&H Garden Room, a bar and restaurant inside the new Assembly London hotel. With its white walls, floor-to-ceiling windows and plants, the space beams in contrast to the street below. We enjoyed our drinks here, including the short-butmighty Gold Fashioned, a heady mix of smoky Scotch, rye whiskey and bitters, with truffle muscovado syrup. Settle in and enjoy the amazing view of Nelson’s Column, Big Ben and the Coca-Cola London Eye. 31 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0LS. T: 020-3962 7275. www.bandh gardenroom.com

‘‘

Trader Vic’s

Enjoy Prohibition-era cocktails at this stylish basement bar, with live music most nights. The elaborate cocktails are amazing. Please check website for programme. www.bar nightjar.com. 129 City Rd, EC1V 1JB. T: 020-7253 4101. C10. Station: Old Street.

This tiki-style basement bar and restaurant is more than 50 years old. Try the Mai Tai cocktail in an exotic setting. www.tradervicslondon.com. London Hilton on Park Lane, 22 Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208 4113. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Opium Cocktail Bar

The whisky shop and bar Milroy’s has tables made of barrels, while The Vault, behind the bookcase, is a hidden bar. www.thevaultsoho.co.uk. 3 Greek St, W1D 4NX. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Tucked away in Chinatown, this is a warren of rooms styled like a 1920s Shanghai bar, serving eccentric cocktails and upscale bar bites including dim sum. Reservations recommended. www.opium chinatown.com. 15 Gerrard St, W1D 6JE. T: 0207734 7276. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Scarfes Bar This elegant hotel bar is named after the satirical British cartoonist Gerald Scarfe, who created the caricatures lining the walls. Wonderful cocktails. www.scarfesbar.com. Rosewood London hotel, 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8611. D8. Station: Holborn.

St Pancras Champagne Bar Europe’s longest Champagne bar is on the Paris Eurostar concourse. Enjoy bubbly and seafood platters, with heated leather banquettes. www.stpancrasbysearcys.co.uk. St Pancras International, Upper Concourse, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

The Vault

The Zetter Townhouse Tony Conigliaro’s groundbreaking cocktails, in a lounge with eccentric decor and a cosy fireplace. The bar is part of a hotel of the same name. www.the zettertownhouse.com. 49-50 St John’s Square, EC1V 4JJ. T: 020-7324 4545. C9. Station: Farringdon.

CASINOS The Casino at the Empire

This spectacular West End venue also has a restaurant and several bars, plus a dedicated poker room. www.the casinolsq.com. 5-6 Leicester Square, WC2H 7NA. T: 020-3733 1315. E7. Station: Leicester Square. Julie Andrews made

DID YOU KNOW? her solo debut at the Hippodrome Casino in 1947

Social 24 Smart bar next to Jason Atherton’s restaurant with an Art Deco interior, Prohibitioninspired cocktails and fantastic views. There’s a great food menu, too. www.citysociallondon.com. Tower 42, 25 Old Broad St, EC2N 1HQ. T: 020-7877 7703. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

Hippodrome Casino

Casino with gaming on three floors, plus a restaurant. www.hippodrome casino.com. Cranbourn St, WC2H 7JH. T: 020-7769 8888. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

The Sportsman Casino Traditional and electronic gaming, including three-card poker and American roulette. Enjoy the poker lounge and sports bar, too. www.thesports mancasino.com. Old Quebec St, W1H 7AF. T: 0203051 4616. D6. Station: Marble Arch.

LIVE ENTERTAINMENT 606 Club A relaxed members’ jazz cellar and restaurant, specialising in British-based artists, playing blues, r’n’b and soul. The food is great, too. www.606club. co.uk. 90 Lots Rd, SW10 0QD. T: 020-7352 5953. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.

Bunga Bunga Part restaurant, part bar, with live entertainment for a theatrical night out. Enjoy Italian cuisine as you watch the live cabaret acts. www.bunga bunga-london.com. 167 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PG (and Battersea branch). T: 020-7590 3602. D8. Station: Covent Garden/Holborn.

The Comedy Store One of the country’s best and most famous venues for stand-up and improvised comedy, plus regular late-night stand-up events. www.thecomedystore. co.uk. 1a Oxendon St, SW1Y 4EE. T: 0844-871 7699. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Ronnie Scott’s The famous jazz venue has hosted top musicians for more than 50 years including Prince, Ella Fitzgerald and Miles Davis. The weekly Sunday Jazz lunch has no minimum age, which makes it perfect for families. www.ronniescotts.co.uk. 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Leicester Square.

Stringfellows Open since 1980, this club was established by the late Peter Stringfellow, and is one of the world’s best-known gentlemen’s clubs. Up to 70 Angels dance nightly on four stages. You can also dine in the five-star steak restaurant. Free entry when dining. www.stringfellows.co.uk. 16-19 Upper St Martin’s Lane, WC2H 9EF. T: 020-7240 5534. E8. Station: Leicester Square.

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WELLNESS

‘This LA trend has made its way to London’

ihanna does it before a show, the model Cara Delevingne does it when she has a cold and singer Lily Allen does it when she suffers from jet lag: IV drips, or intravenous therapy, put nutrients directly into your blood stream via injections.

As the social media vogue continues for celebrities posting shots of themselves, drip in arm, this LA trend has made its way to London. The iconic department store Harrods has upgraded its health and beauty offerings by opening Harrods Hair & Beauty Salon and The Wellness Clinic. The clinic, which takes a holistic approach to treatments, employs doctors and dermatologists. The Elixir Clinic, founded by Mahi Aramideh, offers VitaDrip infusions that are popular among business travellers and locals. The drip infusions aim to boost energy levels, support your immune system and regulate stress. The selection of drips are specialised to your needs and cover jet lag, anti-ageing and hair growth. Each one takes about 45 minutes to administer, so there are relaxation areas – with sofas and magazines – to ensure you feel comfortable. Meanwhile, Harvey Nichols‘ REVIV is a leading wellness brand, with locations across the world, from Las Vegas to Hong Kong. Specialising in drips as well as shots,

the drips include the Royal Flush, which is ideal if you have suffered from food poisoning, and the Hydromax for those who are dehydrated. The shots include vitamin B12 to aid sleep and digestion, as well as Slimboost to improve your metabolism. If you are nervous at the thought of having injections, you can still benefit from plenty of other vitamin-inspired treatments. FaceGym offers a workout for your face – the treatment includes the most vigorous facial massage I’ve ever had and ends with a blast of vitamins, delivered in a cocktail to your skin (www.facegym.com). John Bell & Croyden, meanwhile, offers medicine as well as treatments. The royal family’s pharmacy has a Skinceuticals facial, which includes a vitamin C mask followed by a scalp massage (www.johnbellcroyden.co.uk). Your vitamin boosts await…

KOHINOOR SAHOTA Wellness Editor

The Wellness Clinic at Harrods

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WELLNESS

SPAS This three-storey salon offers cuts, colours, blowdries and botanical treatments using Aveda’s plant-based products. The Express Beauty Bar has a range of treatments lasting for 15 or 30 minutes. www.avedainstitute.co.uk. 174 High Holborn, WC1V 7AA. T: 020-7759 7355. D8. Station: Holborn.

An oasis of calm in the West End, boasting a premium selection of treatments and a 24-hour gym. Luxury treatments include a Gold AgeDefying Facial and Carat Diamond Face and Body Ritual, while there are also treatments for two. Brands used include Forte Organics and Spiezia Organics. www.brownshotel.com. Albemarle St, W1S 4BP. T: 020-7518 4009. E7. Station: Green Park.

Bamford Haybarn Spa

The Spa at Dolphin Square

Aveda Institute

First opened in the Cotswolds and loved by celebrities, this is the spa’s city branch. Treatments take a holistic approach to wellbeing, using botanical products. There is also a rooftop pool. www.the-berkeley.co.uk. The Berkeley hotel, Wilton Place, SW1X 7RL (and branch). T: 020-7201 1699. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.

Body Relaxation High-quality, deep-tissue massage in your hotel room, apartment or the Sloane Street studio. Open until late. T: 07906-029577.

Chuan Spa Step inside this luxury spa, which uses the principles of Chinese medicine to rebalance your mind, body and spirit. There is a VIP suite for couples. www.chuanspa.com. The Langham, 1c Portland Place, Regent St, W1B 1JA. T: 0207973 7550. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Elemis Day Spa Situated in Mayfair, the spa specialises in facials that tackle ageing, pigmentation and blemishes. The Penthouse is a private suite that you can share with a guest: upgrade your experience with a bottle of Champagne. The Speed Spa offers treatments in 30 minutes. www.elemis.com/ dayspa. 2 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EX. T: 020-7499 4995. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Mandara Spa Spa with a contemporary edge and a luxurious Asian touch. The decor features a bamboo forest, Mondrian paintings and Japanese shoji screens. Signature treatments include the warm bamboo massage. There is a double treatment room, fitness centre and swimming pool. www.mandaraspa.com. Park Plaza, 200 Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7300. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Mandarin Oriental Fresh from a refurbishment, this luxury spa is inspired by Chinese treatments. The menu offers scrubs, massages and facials. www.mandarin oriental.com. 66 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LA. T: 020-7235 2000. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

One Aldwych This spa offers a range of treatments including massages, manicures and waxing. Brands used are Natura Bissé and Oskia. The health club is excellent, while the pool is chlorine-free and has underwater music. www.onealdwych.com. One Aldwych, WC2B 4BZ. T: 020-7300 0600. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

The Refinery Men-only spa with treatments ranging from sports massages to traditional shaves. If you want to master a wet shave, you can book a shaving lesson. Also at Harrods. www.the-refinery.com. 60 Brook St, W1K 5DU (and branch). T: 020-7409 2001. E6. Station: Bond Street.

AVENA MASSAGE

Rocco Forte at Brown’s Hotel

by qualiﬁed female masseuse.

Total relaxation, revitalising massage. Please call to book an appointment at your hotel, home or our studio on:

Moroccan-inspired luxury. Signature massages include the Moroccan Majorelle and Arabian Ceremony. Treatments can be combined with a hammam. There is also a menu for bridal and hen parties. www.dolphinsquare.co.uk/spa. Chichester St, SW1V 3LX. T: 020-7798 6767. Off map. Station: Pimlico.

07879 697478

Spa Illuminata Enjoy this holistic skin and body-care haven. The menu includes facials, massages and a men’s menu. Anti-ageing treatments include anti-wrinkle injections and skin peels. Recently voted the Best Day Spa in London by Condé Nast. www.spa illuminata.com. 63 South Audley St, W1K 2QS. T: 020-7499 7777. E6. Station: Marble Arch.

Ushvani This plush spa in Chelsea has won many awards. Its philosophy is based on ancient Asian culture and takes a holistic approach to pampering. Treatments include the Malay and Balinese massage, which incorporates natural herbs, spices and flowers. Look out for yoga classes. www.ushvani.com. 1 Cadogan Gardens, SW3 2RJ. T: 020-7730 2888. G5. Station: Sloane Square.

Late appointments available

SALONS Gentlemen’s Tonic This is a stylish, men-only grooming establishment with a barbershop, body and hair treatments and a full range of products. www.gentlemenstonic.com. 31a Bruton Place, W1J 6NN. T: 020-7297 4343. E6. Station: Bond Street.

INSPIRING LONDON’S VISITORS

Geo F Trumper A traditional barbershop in Mayfair, which offers wet shaves, manicures and haircuts for an elegant result. www.trumpers.com. 9 Curzon St, W1J 5HQ. T: 020-7499 1850. E6. Station: Green Park.

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A GREAT BRITISH DISH Meet the chefs reinventing our cuisine

CHINESE EDITION

Hershesons At this trendy hairdressers, you can choose your favourite fashion-forward look from a menu and a stylist will create it. www.hershesons.com. Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB (and branches). T: 020-7493 1600. E6. Station: Bond Street.

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Jo Hansford This hair salon, which is home to top stylists, is renowned for its colour correction work. The salon also has an in-house chef. www.johansford.com. 48 South Audley St, W1K 2QB. T: 020-7495 7774. E6. Station: Marble Arch.

Windle & Moodie Award-winning hair salon specialising in catwalk looks for women. The 20-minute Speed Styling service offers styles from updos to braids. The salon uses Bumble & Bumble products. www.windleandmoodie.com. 41-45 Shorts Gardens, WC2H 9AP. T: 020-7497 2393. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

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PLAN DE

LONDRES ÉDITION ISE FRANÇA

SIGHTS • ARTS • SHOPPING • EATING • ENTERTAINMENT • MAPS

2017-2018

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LONDON LONDON THE FREE OFFICIAL MONTHLY GUIDE • NOVEMBER 2017

WINTER IS HERE!

Ice skating, cosy pubs and Thanksgiving feasts LIGHTING UP THE SKY

A guide to fireworks across the country

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ANGELS OF THE NORTH

From Paul Smith to Agyness Deyn

The Society of the Golden Keys

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Most spas are open seven days a week, but check for opening hours. References at the end of listings (A1 etc.) refer to coordinates on map p. 80-81

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ESSENTIALS

TICKET INFORMATION Oyster cards & Travelcards An Oyster card is a pre-paid travel smart card. It’s a cheap way to pay for single journeys by bus, Tube, tram, DLR, London Overground and most National Rail train services in London. You can buy a Visitor Oyster card before you leave home for a £5 fee and pre-load it with credit at www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk. The system has nine zones. Zone 1 is in central London. Visitors can buy Oyster cards and Day Travelcards from stations, Visitor Centres and any Oyster Ticket Shop. UK visitors can also pay for their travel with a UK-issued contactless payment card. See www.tfl.gov.uk/visitinglondon. An Oyster card also gives you a 25 per cent discount on London’s cable car, the Emirates Air Line, and a 10 per cent discount on single journeys on most MBNA Thames Clippers river buses. For more info, visit www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk.

GETTING AROUND For 24-hour travel information, visit the Transport for London (TfL) website. www.tfl.gov.uk/ visitinglondon or call T: 0343-222 1234.

London Underground (The Tube) www.tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground map (above). Services run Mon-Sat 5am-12.30am and Sun 7.30am-11.30pm on most routes. The Night

Tube service runs Fri-Sat on the Victoria, Jubilee, Central, Northern (via Embankment) and Piccadilly lines. Fares vary; a Zone 1 adult fare costs £4.90 (£2.40 with an Oyster card).

London Buses London buses run 5am-12.30am. Night buses (midnight-4.30am) operate on main routes (several services are 24-hour). You can’t pay for a bus fare with cash, so use a Visitor Oyster card, Oyster card, Travelcard or a UK-issued contactless payment card. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/ buses. A single fare is £1.50 with an Oyster card or a UK-issued contactless payment card. You can make unlimited bus and tram journeys for free within one hour of first touching in.

London Overground www.tfl.gov.uk. Trains run Mon-Sat 5am-midnight; Sun 7am-11.30pm on most routes. Please check for 24-hour service at weekends.

Docklands Light Railway Trains run approximately every three-anda-half minutes to 10 minutes. Mon-Sat 5.30am12.30am; Sun 7am-11pm. T: 0345-222 1234.

Trains Paddington serves the West Country, Wales and the South Midlands. Liverpool Street and Fenchurch Street serve East Anglia and Essex.

Euston King’s Cross St Pancras Marylebone and St Pancras King’s Cross International (connects to St Pancras) serve north and central Britain, Charing Cross and south east England. London Bridge Waterloo Victoria serve southern England. and For times and tickets, visit www.nationalrail. co.uk or call T: 0345-748 4950. St Pancras International. Eurostar uses Visit www.eurostar.com for more information, times and ticket prices. Call T: 0344-822 4777 (from outside the UK, T: 03432-186 186).

Accessible London Get information for deaf and disabled travellers, including step-free journeys on the Tube, bus and river services at www.visitlondon.com/access and www.openbritain.net.

Taxis You can hail a black cab (taxi) in the street. Fares increase after 8pm. You cannot hail private-hire or minicabs, which you must book. We advise against using any vehicle that approaches you in the street, except for licensed black cabs. www.tfl.gov.uk.

Congestion Charge There is a charge to drive in central London, MonFri 7am-6pm. Pay in advance or on the day (£11.50), or after (£14). UK: T: 0343-222 2222. International: T: +44 343-222 2222. www.cclondon.com.

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Ask the

CONCIERGE Luca Sannino

Concierge at Hotel Café Royal

Royal Albert Hall Racing at Silverstone

Windsor Castle

What’s your most popular request?

Any family-friendly ideas?

Booking the hottest tables at peak times is hard, but making guests happy is our goal.

Sail from Westminster to Greenwich and grab something to eat at Greenwich Market. Stand on the Meridian Line in Greenwich Park for views across London.

What’s been a challenging request? At 8.30am on a Sunday, a regular guest asked for return helicopter transfers and VIP tickets to the British Grand Prix at Silverstone in Northamptonshire, just a few hours before the start.

What makes your hotel special? Ziggy’s bar is a homage to David Bowie, who was a regular at Café Royal. The hotel is also home to Cakes & Bubbles, a dessert restaurant by the Michelin-starred pastry chef Albert Adrià.

How can visitors see London in a day?

LUCA SANNINO COURTESY OF HOTEL CAFÉ ROYAL; ROYAL ALBERT HALL © CHRIS CHRISTODOULOU; RACING AND UNDERGROUND SIGN © ISTOCK; WINDSOR CASTLE © PETER PACKER/THE ROYAL COLLECTION/HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II 2019; OSCAR WILDE LOUNGE © AMIT GERON

Oscar Wilde Lounge in Hotel Café Royal

Walk from our hotel in Piccadilly to the Houses of Parliament in Westminster. Take the Tube to the Tower of London, then stroll from St Paul’s Cathedral along the South Bank and have lunch at Borough Market. Later, enjoy afternoon tea in the Oscar Wilde Lounge in Hotel Café Royal.

Car hire

On foot

Make sure your driving licence is valid for the UK and see ‘Congestion Charge’ (p. 78). Hertz: T: 0870-844 8844. www.hertz.co.uk. Kendall Cars Ltd: T: 0800-770 007. www.kendallcars.com. Enterprise Rent-A-Car: T: 0800-800 227. www.enterprise.co.uk. Miles & Miles: T: 0207591 0555. www.milesandmiles.co.uk.

It’s often quicker to get around London on foot. Look out for blue and yellow Legible London street maps. www.tfl.gov.uk/legiblelondon.

River services www.tfl.gov.uk/river MBNA Thames Clippers: www.mbnathames clippers.com. MBNA Thames Clippers River Bus serves 22 piers, with departures every 20 minutes. Adult prices start from £4.80. River Roamer ticket (unlimited hop-on/hop-off all day from 9am). Adult £19.80, child £9.90; family (two adults, up to three children) £39.60. Children under five travel free. Discounts available on MBNA Thames Clippers with a TfL Travelcard, Oyster, via the app or online.

Emirates Air Line cable car London’s only cable car runs across the River Thames between Greenwich Peninsula (The O2) and the Royal Docks (ExCeL London). You can board from either the North Greenwich or Royal Victoria sides of the river (return flights are available). You can buy a combined ticket with MBNA Thames Clippers and London Transport Museum. www.tfl.gov.uk/emiratesairline.

Any romantic ideas? Booking the Cupid’s Capsule on the Coca-Cola London Eye is the perfect romantic gesture, as just the two of you will overlook the whole of London.

Any hidden gems? The tranquil Kyoto Garden is a hidden gem within a hidden gem: Holland Park.

What about outside of London? Tour one of the Queen’s homes. Windsor Castle is the world’s oldest inhabited castle and you can also visit St George’s Chapel, the final resting place of 10 monarchs.

Any quintessentially British events? The BBC Proms music festival starts in July at the Royal Albert Hall.

Santander Cycles There are 11,500 bikes for hire from 750 docking stations throughout central London. £2 to hire a bike for 24 hours and the first 30 mins of each journey are free. There’s no need to book, but you need a debit or credit card to hire a bike. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/santandercycles or call T: 0343-222 6666.

Coaches London’s main coach services use Victoria Coach Station, a central hub that offers travel to destinations around the UK and some parts of Europe, such as France and the Netherlands. SW1W 9TP. T: 0343-222 1234. www.tfl.gov.uk/ Victoria. D4. coaches

DELIVERY Mail Boxes Etc. Worldwide parcel delivery, courier and postal services. There are 1,600 stores worldwide and more than 150 stores in the UK and Ireland. Mail Boxes provides trained, certified packers. There is also a digital printing and copy service. T: 01608-649230. www.mbe.co.uk/london.

24-hour Tube lines

The service runs on Fridays and Saturdays on the following lines. • Jubilee line: Across the entire line. • Victoria line: Across the entire line. • Northern line: Between Morden and Camden Town and between Camden Town and High Barnet/Edgware. • Piccadilly line: Between Cockfosters and Heathrow Terminal 5. • Central line: Between White City and Leytonstone; between Ealing Broadway and White City; and between Leytonstone and Loughton/Hainault. www.wheretraveler.com 79

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Our

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The Harlem Globetrotters The Harlem Globetrotters are a world-famous basketball troupe, famous for combining jaw-dropping skills with entertainment. They’re in action at The O2 (30 Apr) and Wembley Arena (6 May). We spoke to Chris ‘Animal’ Hyche (near right) and Turbo (far right) about their London trip

Chris ‘Animal’ Hyche and Turbo Buckingham Palace

What can we expect to see in The Harlem Globetrotters’ show? Turbo: It’s going to be fun: you can get tickets to come out and take pictures with us, learn some cool tricks and take some shots. We are going to play our arch nemesis, the Washington Generals.

The O2

What are your favourite London buildings? Chris ‘Animal’ Hyche: Buckingham Palace. Turbo: I really want to go to the Natural History Museum.

Fish and chips

What about travel? Turbo: I’ve never been on the London Underground. I hope I’ll get the chance to ride the Tube.

Where do you like shopping? Chris ‘Animal’ Hyche: We are staying in Kensington and it has a few of my favourite stores including H&M and Zara. Is there a place that holds a special memory for you? Chris ‘Animal’ Hyche: It has to be The O2, as I played there two years ago. The energy in that place was crazy. There are a lot of entertainers who go through there, so it was a real privilege to be able to do a little entertaining myself in the arena.

What food do you like? Chris ‘Animal’ Hyche: I’d like to try some fish and chips. Are there any sports you would like to see? Turbo: We would love to go to a football match. Football here is the number one thing. We love Manchester United.

David Beckham

Who is your favourite Londoner? Chris ‘Animal’ Hyche: David Beckham! I like the boxer Anthony Joshua, too. His story is great – he came out of nowhere and is now one of the superstars of sport.

Who would you love to meet? Turbo: If there’s a chance that we could meet the Queen, that would be amazing! Is there anything else you would like to try? We just want to learn about the country. We want to go to museums, see a show at the theatre or watch a game. How have Londoners been treating you? Turbo: The people here have been great. We’ve been walking down the street and taking pictures. Everyone is really nice. Chris ‘Animal’ Hyche: The energy is amazing – I love the vibe out here! What makes London stand out? Chris ‘Animal’ Hyche: It’s a fashionable city and I love fashion – that part stands out to me. Everyone is always stylish. When you see them walking down the street, they have the nicest sneakers – and I really love sneakers! 30 Apr. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 0844-856 0202. www.theo2.co.uk

What is new in the show? Chris ‘Animal’ Hyche: This tour is about fan power and we want to empower our fans. We want to upgrade our fan interaction by 30 per cent, so there will be 20 more opportunities to connect with us than in past shows. You get to dance with us and interact with us. We have fan meters, where we feed off your energy – as you get louder, the meter gets higher. It gets us pumped.

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Enter the Wizarding Bank and see how filmmakers brought the magic to life.

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