Where Magazine London Jan 2018

LONDON CITY GUIDE ®

JANUARY 2018

WWW.WHERETRAVELER.COM

JOIN THE

PARADE Celebrate 2018 at London’s New Year’s Day Parade

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E N T E R TA I N M E N T

SHOPPING

DINING

PLUS CIRQUE DU SOLEIL ELVIS AT THE O2 LIGHT FESTIVALS

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Contents See more of London at www.wheretraveler.com/london

January

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE Where London has direct access to the head concierges and their teams across London’s four and five-star hotels, and is considered to be the ‘concierge’s bible’.

42

ON THE COVER

Join the parade!

Images courtesy of the London New Year’s Day Parade

64

The Guide 22 SIGHTSEEING The king of rock ‘n’ roll is not dead! Relive the joy of Elvis Presley’s music at an exhibition at The O2.

36 MUSEUMS & GALLERIES As the new Hayward Gallery reopens after a major two-year refurbishment, here is what you can expect.

CIRQUE DU SOLEIL COURTESY OF ROYAL ALBERT HALL; MR FOGG’S OF MAYFAIR COURTESY OF MR FOGG’S OF MAYFAIR; ELVIS PRESLEY COURTESY OF ELVIS ON TOUR; FANCY CRAB © JEAN CAZALS; KEW ILLUMINATIONS © RBG, KEW; CUP COURTESY OF HARRODS

42 ENTERTAINMENT Roll up, roll up! The greatest circus troupe on earth, Cirque du Soleil, swings into town with a spectacular show.

50 SHOPPING The signs are up!

It’s sale time! Here’s how you can pick up a bargain at some of London’s leading department stores.

12

56

22

Best of the month 6 WHERE NOW

12 LET IT SHINE

We look at this month’s biggest festivals and events, including the NBA London Global Games, London International Mime Festival and Burns Night.

10 NEW YEAR’S DAY PARADE Cheerleaders, stunt men and women and the Queen’s horses – find out how you can enjoy all the pomp and pageantry of the capital’s spectacular parade.

PLAN

2017-2018

PLAN DE

LONDRES ÉDITION E FRANÇAIS

As Lumiere London festival lights up the city, we look at other illuminations festivals you can visit, too.

16 FROM LONDON WITH LOVE

01/03/2017 12:58

74 MY PERFECT DAY As the Vault Festival begins, director Kieron Vanstone shares his favourite spots in the city.

TA L K I N G T O T H E W O R L D ’ S V I S I T O R S We are the world’s largest publisher of maps and magazines for visitors. Today, Where can be found on hotel concierges’ desks in more than 80 destinations around the globe.

Download past and present issues from across the Where Network via Magzter’s app.

Go to the app store. Or read a digital copy – visit http://en.calameo.com FRENCH MAP COVER 2017.indd 1

Gifts for people who want to travel in style.

16

In this city, we also produce IN London – a portfolio of luxury magazines in Arabic, Chinese and English – and London Planner, the official monthly guide to the capital from VisitBritain and the Mayor’s promotional company, London & Partners.

56 DINING As the new Bloomberg Arcade opens, we eat our way around its 10 new restaurants.

64 NIGHTLIFE If you are doing Dry January – no drinking for the whole month – here is a guide to marvellous mocktails.

68 WELLBEING As the Corinthia Spa opens up a new fitness studio, here are the best places in the capital in which to keep up your exercise routine.

70 ESSENTIALS London concierges share their travel tips, hidden gems and strangest requests.

72 MAPS A useful map of central London. w w w.wheret r aveler.c o m 3

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EDITORIAL

GROUP EDITOR Kohinoor Sahota GROUP DEPUTY EDITOR Sarah Riches ASSOCIATE EDITOR Neil Simpson SUB EDITOR Anna Frame CONTRIBUTORS Jo Caird, Emma Levine, Suzette Scoble GROUP ART DIRECTOR Tim Benton GRAPHIC DESIGNER Margaux Carpier PICTURE EDITOR Tamsan Barratt PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Stewart Dymock CONTENT DIRECTOR Chris Johnson

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Dominique Marchi

DIGITAL DEVELOPMENT MANAGER Jo Bathurst

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Published by the Visitor Publications division of Morris Communications Company, LLC. 725 Broad St, Augusta, GA 30901 MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS CHAIRMAN William S Morris III PRESIDENT & CEO William S Morris IV WHERE LONDON 2nd Floor, Samuel House, 6 St Alban’s St, London, SW1Y 4SQ Contact: Where Magazine Subscriptions. T: 020-7611 7882. Email: subscriptions@ morriseurope.com. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited. Where® is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications. In London, Where® Magazine is pleased to be a member of The Society of the Golden Keys and London & Partners/Published by Morris Visitor Publications, a subsidiary of Morris Communications Company, LCC, 727 Broad St, Augusta, GA 20901.

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Vol. No. 44 Issue No. 1 ISSN 0951 323X YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

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WELCOME

Editor’s Letter

Happy New Year!

This capital laughs in the face of the January blues. London’s New Year’s Day Parade kicks off the year with fun and festivities. It sees thousands of performers, including acrobats, cheerleaders, marching bands and vintage cars, take over the city (p. 10).

The Lumiere London festival, meanwhile, literally lights up the town with some of the most dazzling art installations (p. 12).

Join the circus! One of my favourite January traditions is watching Cirque du Soleil at the Royal Albert Hall. The troupe rolls up with the new show, Ovo, which has a colourful carnival of performers dressed up as crickets, ants and fleas (p. 42).

In the spirit of the new year, there are also plenty of new places to visit: from the Hayward Gallery (p. 36), which has reopened after a two-year refurbishment, to the Bloomberg Arcade’s development with 10 restaurants (p. 56).

You can’t leave London without taking home a souvenir. No other city in the world does January sales like us – we tell you about the best stores for New Year sales (p. 50). We also round up the best travel items, from eye masks to carry-ons (p. 16).

Have a great visit!

Twitter: @WhereLondon Facebook: Where London Instagram: wherelondon

IMAGE © ISTOCK

KOHINOOR SAHOTA Group Editor Where London

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WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

®

Enjoy the thrill of the NBA London Game, browse for art at the London Art Fair and celebrate Burns Night with a wee dram and some haggis

NBA LONDON GAME THURSDAY 11 JANUARY

Basketball, one of the USA’s greatest sporting exports, makes a very welcome return to London. The O2 is set to host the NBA London Game, an encounter between two key teams from the National Basketball Association (NBA): the Philadelphia 76ers and Boston Celtics. There are plenty of impressive names taking part. The 76ers’ squad includes NBA All-Rookie Joel Embiid, from Cameroon, who led All-Rookies in points and rebounds. Hailing from Croatia, the 6ft 10in Dario Šarić is versatile on the court, according to TV channel ESPN. It’s the second appearance in the UK for both teams. ‘Our established tradition of hosting NBA games in London has a real impact on the popularity of the sport both here in the UK and with fans visiting from Europe,’ says Benjamin Morel, NBA senior vice president. www.theo2.co.uk

HOLOCAUST MEMORIAL SATURDAY 27 JANUARY

This annual event is an opportunity to remember and honour the millions of people killed in the Holocaust, and in genocides since then in Cambodia, Rwanda, Bosnia and Darfur. There are activities taking place at libraries, cinemas, churches and synagogues. www.hmd.org.uk/events 6 W H E R E LO N D O N I J A N UA R Y 2018

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GALVIN AT WINDOWS MONDAY 1–FRIDAY 5 JANUARY

Children aged up to 12 eat for free when adults are indulging in a three-course meal at Galvin at Windows, on Park Lane. What’s more, kids designed the menu, specific dishes and activities. www.galvinatwindows.com

LONDON ART FAIR WEDNESDAY 17–SUNDAY 21 JANUARY

Around 25,000 people attend this celebration of contemporary and modern art each year, feasting their eyes on everything from limited-edition prints to large-scale installations from more than 120 British and international galleries.

Many visitors intend to add to their collections, but there’s no obligation to take something home with you. www.londonartfair.co.uk

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WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

JANUARY

THROUGHOUT JANUARY

No trip to London is complete without watching a West End show. With Get into London Theatre, ticket prices start at £10 for musicals, plays, dance and opera. Long-running shows include The Lion King (above) and Les Misérables, or choose from newer ones such as Everybody’s Talking About Jamie and Kinky Boots. www.officiallondontheatre.com

BURNS NIGHT THURSDAY 25 JANUARY

Celebrate Scotland’s national poet, Robert Burns, on Burns Night. Enjoy traditional dishes such as haggis with a wee dram of Scottish whisky at branches of Boisdale, or Scottish restaurant Irvin in Crouch End, north London.

We’ll say slàinte to that! www.boisdale.co.uk www.irvinbargrill.com

LONDON INTERNATIONAL MIME FESTIVAL FROM WEDNESDAY 10 JANUARY

The London International Mime Festival (LIMF), which champions non-verbal performance, is returning to venues across the capital, from the Barbican to Sadler’s Wells. These wordless performances are ideal for people who are deaf, hard of hearing or non-native English speakers. Founded in 1977, the festival features performers from the UK and Europe, Mexico and New Zealand.

Helen Lannaghan, who co-directs the event with Joseph Seelig, says: ‘LIMF is a once-a-year chance to see a curated season of wordless, contemporary, visual theatre. The shows are selected to make a balanced programme that will inspire, challenge and entertain.’ LIMF opens with a Finnish show that blends new technology with 19th-century stage magic trickery, at Central Saint Martins’ Platform Theatre. www.mimelondon.com

Banish your hangover at the spectacular London’s New Year’s Day Parade Get in a 1999 and Purple Rain mood at The O2’s exhibition My Name Is Prince Don’t miss the final week of Stomp, the hit percussion and dance show Keep the festive spirit going with The Nutcracker, at London Coliseum Take the kids to an IMAX film at the excellent Science Museum Hold the front page! Ink, about a young Robert Maxwell, ends tonight It’s the last night of kids’ favourite The Very Hungry Caterpillar, with puppets Take a stadium tour of Stamford Bridge, league champion Chelsea FC’s home Scare yourself silly at the creepy London Bridge Experience & London Tombs Gaze at photos of all creatures great and small at the Natural History Museum The powerful play Amadeus, about Mozart, opens tonight at the National Theatre Celebrate the music of the legendary Dave Brubeck at Ronnie Scott’s Buy a ticket to see Tottenham Hotspur take on Everton at Wembley Stadium It’s the final day to learn about the ancient nomadic Siberians at The British Museum Enter the thrilling, menacing world of Puccini’s Tosca at Royal Opera House Harold Pinter’s play The Birthday Party is 60 years old – see a new version tonight Get a musical insight at the V&A’s powerful, immersive Opera exhibition Cheer on Ronnie O’Sullivan at the Dafabet Masters snooker at Alexandra Palace Admire the intricate tilework of the Arab Hall in Leighton House Museum Let your kid ‘be’ an astronaut, doctor or even a tattoo artist at KidZania See how Mel Brooks’ iconic film Young Frankenstein transforms on stage If it’s a clear day, head up The View from The Shard for stunning city views Enter the home of British democracy with a tour of the Houses of Parliament Get up close to majestic Asiatic lions and Sumatran tigers at ZSL London Zoo Feast your eyes on Modigliani’s seductive paintings at Tate Modern At Warner Bros. Studio Tour, see a festively decorated Hogwarts in the Snow Catch the final week of the little-known Poster Girls at London Transport Museum It’s the last day of the Jean-Michel Basquiat exhibition at Barbican Art Gallery Take a tour of the state apartments at Windsor Castle to see great art Enjoy a magical candlelit concert tonight at St Martin-in-the-Fields church Get your dancing shoes on for 42nd Street, a comedy musical set in the 1930s

PREVIOUS PAGES: BASKETBALL © NBAE/GETTY IMAGES; HOLOCAUST MEMORIAL © LEWISHAM COUNCIL; GALVIN AT WINDOWS © MARK WHITFIELD PHOTOGRAPHY; LONDON ART FAIR COURTESY OF LONDON ART FAIR. THIS PAGE: THE LION KING © DISNEY; BURNS NIGHT © ISTOCK; LONDON INTERNATIONAL MIME FESTIVAL (GANDINI JUGGLING – SMASHED) © CLAUDINE QUINN

GET INTO LONDON THEATRE

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t s e t a e r G e h T HOW IT ALL STARTED

No city does pomp and pageantry like London, and on New Year’s Day you can enjoy one of the greatest spectacles of all – London’s New Year’s Day Parade. Kohinoor Sahota finds out more

The event began on 1 January 1987, with the aim of raising money for charity. Its executive director Bob Bone, along with his wife Geri, started it. ‘The time has gone in an absolute flash,’ Bob says. ‘There was no magical wand to make it all happen, just a vision to create something wonderful and a huge amount of hard work.’

‘The event has since grown beyond all recognition – from a few hundred hardy souls turning out to entertain a modest crowd on 1 January 1987 to more than 8,000 performers, 500,000 spectators on the streets and a TV audience of millions.’

So far, the parade has raised more than £1 million for London charities.

PERFORMERS There are the Queen’s horses, stunt drivers, drummers, cheerleaders, brass bands and more. Performers come from London and

across the world. This year, Eddie ‘The Eagle’ Edwards, the British skier, gets the show off to a flying start. Thirty years ago, the sportsman wowed the world at the Winter Olympics, and is taking a well-earned lap of honour along the parade route – he may even dust off his skis during the parade.

There are 31 boroughs in London, and each one is represented at the parade. The parade also offers the boroughs the opportunity to compete for tens of thousands of pounds in charity cash prizes, which are donated by the London’s New Year’s Day Parade. There are marching bands from high schools and colleges that have come especially from the United States, as well as a chance to see classic cars and donkeys.

HOW TO WATCH IT The parade is a free family event. The route begins at noon at Piccadilly and takes in many iconic sights including Piccadilly Circus, Pall Mall, Trafalgar Square and Whitehall.

The event ends at Parliament Square.

For those who want an optimum view, grandstand tickets are available to buy and offer seating at Piccadilly and Regent Street. www.londonparade.co.uk

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE STREET SIGN AND SOLDIER © ISTOCK; ALL OTHER IMAGES © LNYDP

WHERE NOW | NEW YEAR’S DAY PARADE

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More great shows CHANGING THE GUARD Troops from the Household Division have guarded the monarch since 1660. When one regiment replaces another, the colourful ritual is known as Changing the Guard. When the guard at Buckingham Palace is changed, part of the Old Guard marches from St James’s Palace on The Mall to nearby Buckingham Palace at 11.15am and returns at 12.05pm. The ceremony can be seen at Horse Guards Parade and Windsor Castle, too. Don’t get in the way! Anyone who steps in front of a sentry while he is marching will be ordered to ‘make way for the Queen’s guard’.

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE

STREET SIGN AND SOLDIER © ISTOCK; ALL OTHER IMAGES © LNYDP

Show o n

TROOPING THE COLOUR Trooping the Colour began in the 17th century under Charles II. After George III became king in 1760, parades marked his birthday. Today, 1,000 officers, 200 horses and 200 musicians

Ea rth

from the Household Division parade from Buckingham Palace to Horse Guards Parade on the Queen’s official birthday every June. Her Majesty The Queen watches from her carriage when the clock on the Horse Guards’ building strikes 11am. Later she watches an RAF flypast from a balcony at Buckingham Palace.

CEREMONY OF THE KEYS This 35-minute ritual, in which the gates of the Tower of London are locked, has taken place every night for 700 years.

A chief yeoman warder, carrying the Queen’s keys, locks the outer gate and the Middle and Byward Towers. Guards salute the keys as they pass. A highlight is when a sentry challenges the warder before allowing them to pass.

The event is free, but it is often booked up for months in advance.

STATE OPENING OF PARLIAMENT This tradition began in the 1500s, although the current ceremony dates from 1852.

The State Opening happens on the first day of a new parliamentary session or after a general election. The Queen leads a procession from Buckingham Palace to Westminster. Then an official, known as Black Rod, summons the Commons. The doors are shut in his face to symbolise the Commons’ independence from the monarchy, and Black Rod strikes the door three times before it is opened. www.wheretraveler.com w w w.wh e ret r ave l e r. com 11

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WHERE NOW | LIGHT FESTIVALS

Letit

Sh i n e

Let there be light! Banish the winter blues with a visit to illuminations festivals that promise to brighten up the capital, says Sarah Riches

Bank – look out for artworks around the National Theatre and Leake Street, pieces with movement sensors and interactive works connected to apps.

Around 50 UK and international artists will participate, while schools and volunteers from across the capital will showcase works made from reflective materials, neon lights and projections.

The festival is programmed and produced by the British live events charity, Artichoke, which was behind London’s Burning in 2016 – the festival that commemorated the 350th anniversary of the Great Fire of London.

Artichoke’s CEO and artistic director, Helen Marriage, says: ‘Lumiere London is about changing expectations – once illuminated, buildings you think you know change their shape and appearance; public spaces become places where strange and delightful things happen. It’s exciting because it makes everyone think differently about the city, and brings great art on to the streets, beyond the closed spaces of the gallery or concert hall.

‘I’m thrilled the Mayor of London has commissioned Artichoke to produce the second edition of

Lumiere London. The festival will transform

the capital into a giant art exhibition without walls and everyone is invited.’

Lumiere London is set to rival Berlin’s Festival of Lights, Lyon’s Fête de Lumières and Vivid Sydney – but to find out if that’s the case, you’ll have to see the light yourself. www.lumierelondon.com

Ligh t fe stival

KEW GARDENS

If Lumiere London feels too crowded, then Christmas at Kew at Kew Gardens is a peaceful alternative. Each year, a mile-long trail winds around the gardens, and this year it will be illuminated at night by more than a million lights.

In previous years, stops along the trail have been decorated with a tunnel of golden fairylights, trees dripping with Chinese lanterns, a garden of flaming torches and trees lit up in every colour. Along the way you can roast chestnuts on a fire and little ones can meet Father Christmas in a grotto.

The finale – a 20-minute light and laser show to music across the lake in front of the Palm

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE

I

t might be dark outside but a major light festival has been given the green light to return to London to rival the capital’s annual illumination and lantern celebrations.

The city’s largest night-time festival, Lumiere London (18-21 Jan), was a hit when it premiered in 2009 in Durham in the north east of England, and when it launched in London in January 2016, 1.3 million visitors braved the chill to see 30 installations.

The 2018 edition promises to be bigger, with up to 50 installations.

Lumiere London will light up King’s Cross and the West End and, for the first time, the festival will bring installations to Covent Garden, Victoria, Waterloo and the South

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PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE

Clockwise from this image: Lumiere London; illuminated installation; Lumiere London; Kew Gardens

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House – will be the highlight of your trip.

Nick Thompson, Kew’s senior commercial events manager, says: ‘This year’s new route has an array of light and sound installations.

Between Art and Technology Studio, which has worked on projects for the Horniman Museum and the Science Museum, will create an ephemeral ultraviolet walkway of continuously moving bubbles. Elsewhere, the world’s longest double herbaceous border, The Great Broad Walk Borders, form part of the trail for the first time with a host of giant trees lining the promenade, made from colourful, sparkling flowers complete with holographic petals.

‘Also new this year will be an ethereal spectacle of light and sound from artists Ithaca as visitors stroll over Kew’s lake, with the lake’s islands coming to life as angelic voices call and respond across the water.’ www.kew.org

CHISWICK HOUSE AND GARDENS Magical Lantern Festival at Chiswick House and Gardens returns for a second year with a new range of illuminated lanterns and sculptures. Last year saw a Chinese dragon, a pat of flamingos and a group, or dazzle, of zebras – which appear to float on water.

This year there are new lantern sculptures, including Father Christmas and his reindeers. www.chiswickhouseandgardens.org.uk

Christmas at Kew

OVERLEAF: LUMIERE IMAGES © MATTHEW ANDREWS; ELEPHANT © ISTOCK; CHRISTMAS AT KEW © RBG, KEW. THIS PAGE: MAGICAL LANTERN FESTIVAL © ISTOCK; CHRISTMAS AT KEW © RBG, KEW

Magical Lantern Festival

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STEP INTO THE

FORBIDDEN FOREST

T I C K E T S M U S T B E P U R C H A S E D I N A DVA N C E AT W B S T U D I OTO U R . CO . U K TM & © 2018 Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc. Harry Potter Publishing Rights © JKR. J.K. ROWLING’S WIZARDING WORLD TM J.K. Rowling and Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc.

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WHERE NOW | SHOPPING

PASSING THROUGH This passport case is available in 14 colours Passport Case, £55, Aspinal of London, 25 Brook St, W1K 4HB

FOR YOUR EYES ONLY This eye mask contains a pinch of lavender to soothe tired eyes and aid sleep Otis Batterbee Cravat-print Cotton Silk Eye Mask, £50, John Lewis, 300 Oxford St, W1C 1DX

FROM LONDON Take your pick from these travel items, from suitcase sets to travel games

MAKING A CASE Stylish travel cases that cover all of your needs Leather Cabin Case Set, £1,590, Aspinal of London, 25 Brook St, W1K 4HB TAGGING ALONG Cath Kidston is famous for its London prints Marching Band Luggage Tag, £6, Cath Kidston, 180 Piccadilly, W1J 9ER

WEIGHT WATCHERS Weigh your luggage to avoid extra charges Go Travel Digital Luggage Weighing Scale, £9.99, John Lewis, 300 Oxford St, W1C 1DX

GAME ON! A game set from one of the world’s best-known toy stores Travel Tic Tac Toe, £10, Hamleys, 188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT

CARD GAMES The trench leather replicates the cloth patented by Thomas Burberry in 1888 Two-tone Trench Leather Card Case, £150, Burberry, 21 Regent St, W1B 4TB

YOUR CUP OF TEA This travel cup from the famous store has a London-inspired print Pretty City Thermal Travel Mug, £10, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF THE RETAILERS; WOMAN © ISTOCK

Top Pick

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‘The bees are getting suspicious’, Winnie-the-Pooh chapter 1, pencil drawing by E. H. Shepard © The Shepard Trust, reproduced with permission from Curtis Brown Group Ltd. © Disney. Based on the ‘Winnie the Pooh’ works by A. A. Milne and E.H. Shepard.

PAR T NERSH IP FEAT URE

Charles II A RT & P OW ER

WESTMINSTER ABBEY A shrine to countless great lives, this is the spot where King Charles II was crowned in 1661 and buried in 1685. It was a low-key funeral and lacked an effigy – as was the norm for royals – because of his conversion to Catholicism.

You’ll find his vault in the Lady Chapel.

BANQUETING HOUSE This magnificent building is now all that remains of Charles II’s principal London residence, Whitehall Palace, which was largely destroyed by a fire in 1698. Built for Charles’ grandfather, James I, Banqueting House has witnessed plenty of dramatic ceremonies and events during its time – not to mention the execution of King Charles I in its grounds.

HOUSEHOLD CAVALRY MUSEUM The institution of the Household Cavalry was founded in 1661 by the new king, and is designed to guard the monarch on ceremonial occasions in London and around

the UK. The museum is situated on Whitehall inside Horse Guards, the official entrance to both St James’s Palace and Buckingham Palace since 1660. The daily routine includes Changing the Queen’s Life Guard, a ceremony which sees the New Guard ride from Hyde Park Barracks and along The Mall every morning. Similar to Changing the Guard at Buckingham Palace, this lesserknown ceremony is easier to watch, thanks to smaller crowds.

NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY To date, the gallery has almost 300 portraits of Charles II in its collection, making it a great place to become better acquainted with a king

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GALLERY INTERIOR © NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY;

T

he reign of Charles II began with the end of Oliver Cromwell, who led a republic for 11 years following the execution of King Charles I. Cromwell’s own death in 1658 led to the restoration of the British monarchy, with Charles II assuming his father’s throne and reintroducing the royal court as a centre for artistic patronage. Now, The Queen’s Gallery at Buckingham Palace is celebrating the rich material world of Charles II’s court by displaying treasures including portraiture, silver-gilt tableware and da Vinci drawings.

Join us as we trace the king’s London legacy.

ALL IMAGES © ROYAL COLLECTION TRUST

This page (clockwise from left): John Michael Wright’s Charles II, c. 1676; Sir Peter Lely’s Barbara Villiers, Duchess of Cleveland, c. 1665; Johann Hass’ The Exeter Salt, c.1630

CHARLES I

KING AND COLLECTOR

This page (clockwise from this photo): National Portrait Gallery; Westminster Abbey; Maarten van Heemskerck’s The Four Last Things, 1565; Millennium Bridge & St Paul’s Cathedral

Before his defeat in the English Civil War and eventual execution in 1649, Charles I was in possession of one of the greatest art collections of the age. Regrouping the pieces for the first time, the Royal Academy of Art’s new exhibition runs from 27 January until 15 April.

KING AND COLLECTOR

BY NUMBERS:

6 90

The exhibition has taken 6 years to prepare

The Queen has lent 90 pieces of art from the Royal Collection

369

It’s been 369 years since his art was last united as a collection

1,500

Charles I is thought to have collected 1,500 paintings in his lifetime

The residents of the Royal Hospital Chelsea have come to be known as ‘Chelsea Pensioners’, each having served in the UK Armed Forces and now enjoying a retirement in these beautiful surroundings; every May, the world-famous Chelsea Flower Show is held here.

GALLERY INTERIOR © NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY; ST PAUL’S CATHEDRAL & WESTMINSTER ABBEY © ISTOCK; MAARTEN VAN HEEMSKERCK’S THE FOUR LAST THINGS, 1565 © ROYAL COLLECTION TRUST

who loved to champion the arts. Don’t miss Thomas Hawker’s 1680 portrait – a regal painting of Charles on a golden throne at the height of his powers – plus the intriguing King Charles II and Jane Lane Riding to Bristol.

THE ROYAL SOCIETY Granted a Royal Charter by Charles II in 1662, the organisation was referred to as ‘The Royal Society of London for Improving Natural Knowledge’. These days, the Royal Society works with scientists and policymakers across the globe to share knowledge and change the world for the better through science, and it hosts events and lectures.

CHARLES II STATUE This prominent statue was originally right in the middle of Soho Square, which itself used to be called King Square. The statue stood in the centre of a fountain until 1875, when the fountain was removed and the statue sold.

In 1938, however, the statue was returned and now you’ll find it just north of the centre – Soho Square is a great spot for a picnic and a game of table tennis.

THEATRE ROYAL Located on Drury Lane – in the area now known as Theatreland – this is London’s oldest theatre, opened in 1663 following a patent issued by Charles II. A favourite with the famous diarist Samuel Pepys, the theatre boasted a collection of celebrated actors who performed on a regular basis. Among them was Covent Garden market sellerturned-actress Nell Gwyn, who became Charles’ mistress – no wonder he visited this theatre so often!

THE ROYAL HOSPITAL CHELSEA From the pen of architect Sir Christopher Wren, this home for veteran soldiers was founded by Charles II and opened in 1692.

ST PAUL’S CATHEDRAL Following fire damage – not to mention being home to 800 horses during the English Civil War – St Paul’s was in serious disrepair by the 1660s. After the Great Fire of London inflicted yet more damage in 1666, a Royal Warrant was issued by Charles II to rebuild St Paul’s, with Sir Christopher Wren commissioned. After nine years of planning and 33 years of building, it was completed in 1708.

THE ROYAL OBSERVATORY As Britain took to the seas to become the king of international trade, Charles II appointed a Royal Commission to improve the country’s navigation expertise via astronomy. In 1675, the Commission proposed Britain’s first state-funded scientific institution, the Royal Observatory.

Sir Christopher Wren suggested the site of the ruined Greenwich Castle and the rest, as they say, is history.

Joint tickets are available to Charles II: Art & Power at The Queen’s Gallery, Buckingham Palace, and Charles I: King and Collector at the Royal Academy. www.royalcollection.org.uk www.wheretraveler.com 19

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SIGHTSEEING | THE GUIDE Left: Artefacts on display at Elvis on Tour exhibition Right: Elvis Presley on stage in 1973

Events at The O2

Elvis is in the building Elvis on Tour: The Exhibition is a follow-up to the hugely successful Elvis at The O2, a show seen by more than 200,000 visitors at the Greenwich venue in 2014 and 2015.

Priscilla Presley, Elvis’ widow, describes being ‘overwhelmed by the huge numbers’ of fans who attended the first exhibition.

‘Elvis Presley was beloved by his fans and they also meant the world to him,’ she said. ‘We are delighted that this carefully curated selection of over 200 artefacts from the Graceland archives will give them the opportunity to gain an even greater insight into his life and how he impacted popular culture around the world through his music, movies and personal style.’

After a phenomenally successful first few years – during which Elvis’ singles and albums shot to number one, his concerts turned into riots, and his TV appearances attracted millions of viewers – the 1960s were a trickier time. Elvis shifted his focus on to films – acting and releasing soundtrack albums that did progressively worse in the charts, and he didn’t perform live for almost a decade.

A one-off Christmas TV broadcast that has since become known as the ’68 Comeback Special turned things around for Presley, and his subsequent US tour had record-breaking crowds. Elvis on Tour includes costumes, guitars, trunks and more from that tour, including dozens of jumpsuits, a look that became a trademark of Elvis’ live act.

Around 100 of these jumpsuits, made from Italian wool, embroidered with colourful designs and encrusted with jewels, were designed for the singer. They were inspired by the outfits Elvis wore when he practised karate, a hobby he picked up when he was serving in the army in the late 1950s. The design gave him freedom of movement when performing.

When one of Elvis’ jumpsuits came up at auction in 2016, it sold for $325,000 (£243,000).

It’s been 40 years since Elvis died at his home in Memphis, Tennessee, but the passing of time has done little to diminish the fervour of his legions of fans around the world. Elvis on Tour will keep that memory alive.

For full listing, turn to p. 28

PRINCE Elvis isn’t the only musical legend to be featured at The O2 this month – the venue is also hosting the first-ever official exhibition of Prince memorabilia, My Name Is Prince (above; p. 28). Instruments, costumes and handwritten song lyrics come to London directly from Paisley Park, the late artist’s private estate in Minnesota, USA.

UP AT THE O2 Jumpsuits are a big feature of another experience at The O2 – Up at The O2 sees visitors don an all-in-one suit, plus a safety harness and special shoes, before setting off up and over the most iconic silhouette on the east London skyline. The walkway is suspended 52 metres above the roof of the dome, and walks are available during the day or at sunset (p. 30).

ELVIS IMAGES COURTESY OF ELVIS ON TOUR: THE EXHIBITION; PRINCE © PAISLEY PARK

The king of rock ‘n’ roll is back this winter. No, not the man himself, but a collection of artefacts that tell the story of his life, says Jo Caird

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T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and last entry time. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 72-73.

SIGHTSEEING Apsley House Visit the home of the Duke of Wellington to see its grand interiors and fine art. Sat-Sun 10am-4pm.

Adult £9.30; child £5.60. www.english-heritage. org.uk/apsleyhouse. 149 Piccadilly, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7NT. T: 020-7499 5676. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

ArcelorMittal Orbit This 115m-tall observation tower, designed by Turner Prize-winning artist Sir Anish Kapoor, offers 20-mile views over Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park (p. 29) and beyond. Adventurous types can abseil down it or whizz down its 178m tunnel slide, which is the world’s longest. Mon-Fri 11am-5pm; Sat-Sun 10am-6pm. Please check for prices. www.arcelormittalorbit.com. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2SS. T: 0333-800 8099. Off map. Station: Stratford.

Banqueting House This spectacular 17th-century building was designed by Inigo Jones for James I, with an exquisite painted ceiling by the celebrated Baroque artist Peter Paul Rubens. It is the only remaining part of the Palace of Westminster, which was destroyed by fire. Daily 10am-5pm, but call before visiting. Adult £5.50; child free. www.hrp.org.uk. Whitehall, SW1A 2ER. T: 0203166 6000. E8. Station: Westminster.

Battersea Park Children’s Zoo Zoo especially for little ones, with keeper experiences, a play area and a petting farm with cute donkeys, chinchillas and goats.

Daily 10am-4.30pm. Adult £9.50; child £7.50. www.batterseaparkzoo.co.uk. Battersea Park, Chelsea Bridge Gate, SW11 4NJ. T: 020-7924 5826. Off map. Station: Battersea Park.

which take you around the stunning State Rooms. www.royalcollection.org.uk. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7300. F6/F7.

Station: Victoria/Green Park.

Changing the Guard

Watch the Changing of the Queen’s Guard on the Palace’s forecourt (except in very wet weather). During the ceremony, one regiment The British Library takes over from another. The Queen’s The world’s largest library, also with Guard consists of the St James’s exhibitions and a great permanent Palace and Buckingham Palace collection. To 28 Feb: Harry Potter: detachments. The New Guard A History of Magic. Unveiling marches to Buckingham Palace The British Library rare books, manuscripts and from Wellington Barracks. From includes a copy of every magical objects from the library’s 10am; please check for days. book ever published collection, celebrating the 20th in the UK and Free. www.householddivision. anniversary of JK Rowling’s first Ireland org.uk. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, Harry Potter book. To 13 May: Listen: SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7300. F6/F7.

140 Years of Recorded Sound. Step inside a Station: Victoria/Green Park. listening booth to explore the museum’s vast collection of recordings, alongside a display Chelsea Physic Garden discussing the impact of recorded sound since London’s oldest botanic garden, nestling on 1877. Please check for times. Admission free; the River Thames, was founded in 1673 as the charges for tours, some exhibitions and events.

Apothecaries’ Garden. Admire 5,000 species www.bl.uk. 96 Euston Rd, NW1 2DB. T: 0330-333 of plants, including medicinal ones and tropical 1144. C7. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras/Euston. plants in glasshouses. Free daily tours. Mon-Fri 11am-3pm (or dusk if earlier). Adult £6.10; child Buckingham Palace £4.40. www.chelseaphysicgarden.co.uk. 66 Royal The London residence and principal workplace Hospital Rd, SW3 4HS. T: 020-7352 5646. Off map. of the monarchy has 775 rooms. It opens in the Station: Sloane Square. summer and has evening tours on select dates,

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SIGHTSEEING Cutty Sark This 19th-century ship is the world’s last surviving tea clipper. Explore interactive displays on deck telling the story about the ship’s history. You can also see where the crew used to live and sleep. Enjoy afternoon tea under the hull or take part in the lively programme of events, especially for children. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £13.50; child £7. Joint tickets with Royal Observatory available. www.rmg.co.uk.

Cutty Sark, King William Walk, SE10 9HT. T: 020-8312 6608. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.

of Johnson. Mon-Sat 11am-5pm. Adult £6; child £2.50. www.drjohnsonshouse.org. 17 Gough Square, EC4A 3DE. T: 020-7353 3745. D9.

Station: Temple/Chancery Lane.

Eltham Palace & Gardens

Experience the decade of decadence as you are transported back to the 1930s. Part showpiece of Art Deco design and part medieval royal palace, make yourself at home as a guest of Stephen and Virginia Courtauld. Don’t miss a reconstruction of her walk-in wardrobe containing beautiful period dresses and hats. The basement has a billiard room, plus a wartime A cutty-sark is a Dennis Severs’ House bunker, in use during the Blitz. lowland Scots word Explore the home of the late artist for a Victorian item of Enjoy the domed entrance, used Dennis Severs. Ten atmospheric women’s underwear for cocktail parties. Please check rooms, from the cellar to the attic, for full opening times. Adult £14.40; illustrate the life of a family of child £8.60. www.english-heritage.org.

Huguenot silk weavers from the 17th to uk/eltham. Court Yard, SE9 5QE. T: 020the 19th century. Keep your eyes and ears 8294 2548. Off map. Station: Eltham. open for a real audio-visual experience. Please check for tours, some of them silent and by Fulham Palace candlelight. Tickets £5-£15. www.dennissevers This attractive 15th-century building was the house.co.uk. 18 Folgate St, E1 6BX. T: 020-7247 summer retreat of the Bishops of London.

4013. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

Now it’s a museum with gardens, a café and art Dr Johnson’s House gallery. To 15 Apr: Fulham Palace Through Postcards.

Writer Dr Samuel Johnson compiled his first Exhibition presenting the variety of postcards from English dictionary, first published in 1755, in all periods relating to the Palace and exploring this 18th-century period home. Please check what they reveal about its history. Museum, for staged performances, talks and tours. historic rooms and shop Mon-Thur 12.30pmJohnson & Garrick: A Friendship in Constant Repair.

3.30pm; Sun noon-4pm. Admission free, charges New exhibition that explores the life of David for special events. www.fulhampalace.org.

Garrick, the greatest celebrity on and off the Bishop’s Ave, SW6 6EA. T: 020-7736 3233.

Off map. Station: Putney Bridge. stage of the 18th century, and a close friend

Go Ape Alexandra Palace A treetop obstacle course with ladders, bridges and zip lines for kids at this grand palace atop a hill, which has beautiful views of London.

Make a day of it and enjoy the boating lake nearby.

Wed-Sun from 9am. Please check for prices. www.goape.co.uk. Alexandra Palace, Alexandra Palace Way, N22 7AY. T: 0330-057 2329. Off map.

Station: Alexandra Palace.

Go Ape Battersea Park Make like a monkey at this treetop adventure playground, which is suitable for children over six and adults. Negotiate ladders, bridges and zip lines while attached to a reassuring harness. Enthusiastic staff are on hand throughout the three-and-a-half-hour experience. Daily from 8.30am. Please check for prices. www.goape.co. uk. Battersea Park, SW11 4NJ. T: 0330-057 2329.

Off map. Station: Battersea Park.

Ham House and Gardens One of Europe’s greatest 17th-century houses, on the banks of the Thames. Its gardens, which are landscaped, have a kitchen garden with heritage crops. The house is said to be haunted.

First floor closed to 28 Mar. Mon-Fri house tours noon and 12.30pm; Sat-Sun house open 10am4pm. Adult £10.80; child £5.40. www.nationaltrust. org.uk. Ham St, Surrey, TW10 7RS. T: 020-8940 1950. Off map. Station: Richmond.

Handel & Hendrix in London The former homes of the Anglo-German composer George Frideric Handel and American guitarist Jimi Hendrix. See where Handel lived and

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composed for 36 years, plus Hendrix’s bedroom restored to how it was in 1968 and 1969. 9 Jan: Seventeenth-century keyboard music played on a harpsichord and a clavichord. 23 Jan: Private evening tour with the curator of Handel House.

30 Jan: Handel’s final oratorio, Jephtha, performed on harpsichord with a tenor. Mon-Sat 11pm-6pm.

Please check online for full event details, times and prices. Adult £10; child £5. www.handel hendrix.org. 25 Brook St, W1K 4HB. T: 020-7495 1685. D6. Station: Bond Street.

HMS Belfast Permanently moored on the River Thames, this ship is Europe’s only surviving World War II cruiser. In service until 1965, it’s now a reminder of Britain’s naval heritage, with regular family events. Daily 10am-5pm.

Adult £14.50; child £7.25. www.iwm.org.uk.

The Queen’s Walk, off Tooley St, SE1 2JH. T: 020-7940 6300. E11. Station: London Bridge.

KidZania London Parents take a back seat here as children take charge. Three times the size of Trafalgar Square, KidZania has everything that a child could want including TV and animation studios, a chocolate factory and aviation academy – there’s even a tattoo parlour! The early-years area means that younger siblings will have fun too. You’ll leave wondering why there wasn’t a KidZania when you were growing up... which is why it hosts occasional adult nights! Daily from 10am, call for closing times. Closed every Mon-Tue in Jan and 10-12 Jan. Advance: adult from £16; child from £18. On the day: adult

from £18; child from £39. www.kidzania.com.

Westfield London Shopping Centre, Ariel Way, W12 7GA. T: 0330-131 3333. Off map. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.

The London Bridge Experience & Tombs An exciting insight into the past of the 1,700-year-old London Bridge site. Special effects and costumed actors bring this spine-tinglingly scary attraction to life. Tickets also include the London Tombs, under the bridge, which are located in a former plague pit. Please check for times and prices. www.thelondonbridgeexperience.com.

2-4 Tooley St, SE1 2SY. T: 020-7403 6333. E10.

Station: London Bridge.

Houses of Parliament The site of Parliament since 1265 and still a royal palace, the current building including Big Ben was built in the 19th century. Audio and guided tours every Sat. Advance: audio tour adult £18.50, child £7.50 (one child free per paying adult); guided tour adult £25.50, child £11. On the day: audio tour adult £20.50, child £8.50 (one child free per paying adult); guided tour adult £28, child £12. www.parliament.uk/visit. Palace of Westminster, Parliament Square, SW1A 0AA. T: 020-7219 4114.

F8. Station: Westminster.

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The Jewel Tower Built around 1365 to house Edward III’s treasures, this is one of only two buildings left from the medieval Palace of Westminster after an 1834 fire. Don’t miss the ornate ceiling carvings. SatSun 10am-4pm. Adult £5; child £3. www.englishheritage.org.uk. Abingdon St, SW1P 3JX. T: 020-7222 2219. F8. Station: Westminster.

Keats House This 19th-century home belonged to the Romantic poet John Keats. See his paintings, books, letters and household items, plus the engagement ring he gave to his sweetheart Fanny Brawne. Please check for regular literature events and free family activity days. Wed-Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £6.50; child free. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/things-to-do/ keats-house/. Keats Grove, NW3 2RR. T: 020-7332 3868. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

Kensington Palace This royal residence sits in Kensington Gardens and was Princess Diana’s last home. Diana: Her Fashion Story. An exhibition dedicated to the style of the ‘people’s princess’ and her unique style, exhibiting her dresses including the blue velvet gown she wore when dancing with John Travolta at the White House. Visit the King’s Gallery with paintings from the Royal Collection, plus the opulent King’s Staircase, the entrance to the state apartments. Daily 10am-4pm. Adult £15.50; child free. www.hrp.org.uk. Kensington Gardens, W8 4PX. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington/Queensway.

Kenwood On the edge of Hampstead Heath, Kenwood House and its landscaped gardens is a hidden gem. Admire Robert Adams’ interiors and an art collection made up of Rembrandt, Vermeer and Gainsborough. Regular family events. Daily 10am4pm. Free admission. www.english-heritage.org. uk/kenwood. Hampstead Lane, NW3 7JR. T: 020-8348 1286. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

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SIGHTSEEING The London Dungeon This thrilling attraction heads back to the capital’s perilous past. See, hear and feel the ‘bad old days’ as they come to life with costumed characters.

Not for small children. Joint tickets with SEA LIFE London Aquarium, Coca-Cola London Eye, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! Please check for times and prices. www.thedungeons.com.

County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 020-7654 0809. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Coca-Cola London Eye This London icon is one of the world’s largest observation wheels. Interactive screens in each pod give an insight into the landmarks on view.

Joint tickets available with the SEA LIFE London, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! Check for times and prices. www.london eye.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Check for regular feeding times, talks by the zookeepers and Meet the Animals sessions.

Daily 10am-4pm. Adult £22.73; child £17.73. www.zsl.org. Regent’s Park, NW1 4RY. T: 0207722 3333. C6. Station: Camden Town.

ZSL London Zoo

Madame Tussauds

Immerse yourself in the animal kingdom at the world’s oldest scientific zoo, which has more than 750 species. Enjoy the aquarium and penguin beach, and meet the huge Galapagos tortoises and Komodo Dragon.

Venture to see endangered Sumatran tigers, plus the Land of the Lions enclosure with Asiatic lions, designed to resemble an Indian national park.

Into Africa has unusual animals including okapis.

Celebrated home of life-sized wax figures depicting famous people from the worlds of entertainment, politics, sport and history, from the Queen to Adele. Don’t miss the permanent Star Wars exhibition, with 11 sets from the films and an animatronic head from Kong: Skull Island.

Detective fans will enjoy The Sherlock Holmes Experience as well as the evening show The Game’s Afoot, an immersive attraction. Joint tickets available with SEA LIFE London Aquarium, London Dungeon, Coca-Cola London Eye and Shrek’s Adventure!

Check for times. Adult £35; child £30. www.madame tussauds.com/london. Marylebone Rd, NW1 5LR. T: 0871-894 3000. C6. Station: Baker Street.

The Monument

THE STATE ROOMS BUCKINGHAM PALACE

This beautiful stone column standing in the heart of the City was built in 1677 to commemorate the 1666 Great Fire of London. Climb the 311 steps to its observation gallery. Daily 9.30am-5.30pm.

Adult £5; child £2.50. Joint tickets with the Tower Bridge Exhibition available. www.themonument. org.uk. Monument St, EC3R 6BD. T: 020-7626 2717.

E10. Station: Monument.

The O2 Huge venue for entertainment and exhibitions.

To 7 Jan: My Name Is Prince. The world premiere of the official exhibition about the legendary musician Prince, with stage outfits, instruments and hand-written lyrics (p. 22). To 4 Feb: Elvis on Tour: The Exhibition. Elvis Presley, the king of rock ’n’ roll, returns to The O2 (p. 22). Nissan Innovation Station. Take a virtual test drive in an electric Nissan LEAF and experience Nissan’s Motorsports Training Lab, which allows you to test your stamina and reactions against other NISMO athletes. There’s also colouring activities, quizzes, a GT-R Virtual Reality experience and Gran Turismo 6 racing pods. Free. Daily noon-8pm. www.theo2. co.uk. Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2000. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

Old Royal Naval College

Enjoy an Exclusive Guided Tour of the magnificent State Rooms at Buckingham Palace Available on selected dates 15 December 2017 – 4 February 2018 Pre-booking is highly recommended

www.royalcollection.org.uk +44 (0)303 123 7300

This beautiful Baroque masterpiece, part of the Maritime Greenwich World Heritage Site, is the home of British naval training. Don’t miss the magnificent ceiling in the Painted Hall. During a temporary conservation project, you can see the ceiling up close on a 50-minute tour from an observation deck (adult £10; child £5). Check for guided tours. There’s a museum about the history of Greenwich at the Visitor Centre. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.ornc.org. King William Walk, SE10 9NN. T: 020-8269 4799.

Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.

18 Stafford Terrace The furnished Victorian townhouse gives a fascinating insight into the personal lives of the Punch cartoonist Edward Linley Sambourne and his wife Marion, their two children and their live-in servants, who lived here from 1875. A highlight is a costumed actor-led tour, on which you’ll meet Mrs Sambourne or her parlour maid Mrs Reffell for a dramatic account based on old diaries. Wed, Sat-Sun pre-booked tours 11am; drop-in 2pm-5.30pm. Please check for special events. Adult from £7; child from £5. www.rbkc. gov.uk. 18 Stafford Terrace, W8 7BH. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

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SIGHTSEEING Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park Formerly the site of the London 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games, this park includes an aquatics centre and the ArcelorMittal Orbit observation tower (p. 24). Please check website for sporting events. Park open 24 hours daily.

Admission free. www.queenelizabetholympicpark. co.uk. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2ST. T: 0800-072 2110. Off map. Station: Stratford.

Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew Better known as Kew Gardens, this botanical research centre and World Heritage Site contains plants from across the globe, with Victorian tropical greenhouses and a Chinese pagoda.

The Xstrata Treetop Walkway offers great views.

Kew Palace – King George III’s former home – is closed until 29 Mar. Daily from 10am, please check for closing times. Adult £12.50; child £3.50; charges for special exhibitions. www.kew.org.

Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, Richmond, TW9 3AB. T: 020-8332 5655. Off map. Station: Kew Gardens.

The Royal Institution of Great Britain

available. Please check for times. Adult £27.50; child £22. www.shreksadventure.com. Riverside Building, County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-221 2837. F8. Station: Waterloo.

St James’s Palace One of London’s oldest palaces, constructed in the 14th century and home to royalty for three centuries. Palace and house closed to the public. www.royal.gov.uk. Marlborough Rd, SW1A 1BS. E7. Station: St James’s Park.

St Katharine Docks This vibrant marina dates back to the 11th century and is tucked away by the Tower of London. It is lined with a good range of markets, shops,

boutiques and galleries. www.skdocks.co.uk.

50 St Katharine’s Way, E1W 1LA. T: 020-7264 5287. Off map. Station: Tower Hill.

St Martin-in-the-Fields Soaring, landmark Palladian church at the edge of Trafalgar Square with tours and a brass-rubbing centre suitable for all ages. Inside the church is a busy programme of live classical music (some free), with weekly jazz in the crypt. Holy Communion is given daily, and classical music performed regularly, often by candlelight. Please check for opening times. Admission free; brass rubbing from £4.50. www.stmartin-in-the-fields.org.

Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8.

Station: Charing Cross.

THE QUEEN’S GALLERY BUCKINGHAM PALACE

Grade I-listed Georgian building housing a museum about the institution’s 15 Nobel Prizewinning scientists. Visit its free Faraday Museum and you can see scientists at work, too. Check the website for its programme of talks. Mon-Fri 8am-6pm. Admission free; charges for talks. www.rigb.org. 21 Albemarle St, W1S 4BS. T: 020-7409 2992. E6. Station: Green Park.

The Royal Mews Closed to 1 Feb: Built by John Nash in 1825, this beautiful part of Buckingham Palace houses the Queen’s vehicles and horses, including the Diamond Jubilee State Coach. Witness daily life and learn about the mews’ history. Mon-Sat 10am-4pm Adult £10; child £5.80. www.royalcollection.org.uk.

Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 1QH. T: 0303-123 7302. F6. Station: Victoria.

The Royal Observatory The home of Greenwich Mean Time and London’s only planetarium, which has regular astronomy workshops and Observatory tours. Learn about time in the Peter Harrison Galleries and watch planetarium shows throughout the day. The Sky Tonight. Daily planetarium show that explores the moon, constellations, planets and deep-space objects. Adult £8; child £5.50. Meridian Line and Observatory daily 10am-5pm. Adult £10; child £6.50. www.rmg.co.uk. Blackheath Ave, SE10 8XJ. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich/ Maze Hill/Cutty Sark.

SEA LIFE London Aquarium One of Europe’s largest aquariums is home to 500 species of global marine life and walk-through tank tunnels, including a glass walkway above 16 sharks. Ocean Invaders: Enter the World of Jellyfish. Get up close to swarms of jellyfish in these new tanks. You can also snorkel with sharks (from the safety of a cage). Please check for times, prices and special events. Joint tickets available with Coca-Cola London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! www.sealife.co.uk/london. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0333321 2001. F8. Station: Waterloo.

8 DECEMBER 2017 – 13 MAY 2018

Shrek’s Adventure!

Ride the magical 4D ‘DreamWorks Tours’ bus to step into live actor fairytale-themed shows where you can meet the characters from the much-loved films. Joint tickets with the CocaCola London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and SEA LIFE London Aquarium

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SIGHTSEEING St Paul’s Cathedral

Tower Bridge Exhibition

Sir Christopher Wren’s stunning 300-year-old cathedral has ornate mosaics on its interior.

Climb up the world-famous dome to the Whispering Gallery and a further 271 steps to the Golden Gallery for a classic London panorama.

Then head down to the crypt, with its monuments to Wren and Lord Nelson. Don’t miss Oculus: An Eye into St Paul’s, a 270-degree film experience, for an excellent overview. Please check for occasional concerts and recitals; free organ recital most Sun 4.45pm. Free tours. Mon-Sat 8.30am-4.30pm.

Adult £18; child £8. www.stpauls.co.uk. St Paul’s Churchyard, EC4M 8AD. T: 020-7246 8350. D9/10.

Station: St Paul’s.

This breathtaking bridge, designed in 1884, is one of London’s most famous landmarks. You can also tour the engine rooms with a knowledgeable guide and do yoga on the glass walkways, 42m above the River Thames. Joint tickets with The Monument available. Daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £9.80; child £4.20. Check for bridge-lift times. www.tower bridge.org.uk. Tower Bridge Rd, SE1 2UP. T: 020-7403 3761. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

Tower of London This historic landmark has over the centuries been a prison, a royal palace and fortress. It’s also home to the Jewel House, with the Crown Jewels, which

you see via a slowly moving walkway. Visit the Bloody Tower and Traitors’ Gate and enjoy free guided tours by ‘Beefeaters’ (Yeoman Warders). Book ahead online to attend the nightly Ceremony of the Keys, which dates back to 1340 (tickets are free).

From 2 Jan: Visit the Medieval Palace to see the palace of King Edward I (please check for times). Tue-Sat 9am-4.30pm; Sun-Mon 10am4.30pm. Adult £24.80; child £11.50. www.hrp.org.uk.

Tower Hill, EC3N 4AB. T: 0844-482 7799. E11.

Station: Tower Hill.

Up at The O2 Prepare for an unforgettable 90-minute experience which will take you on an uplifting expedition across the roof of The O2 (p. 22). All equipment is provided, including climbing suit, harness and safety equipment. Bring your own warm socks, hats and gloves for the likelihood of cold weather.

From the viewing platform at the top you can enjoy spectacular 360-degree views of the River Thames, Emirates Air Line, Canary Wharf and beyond.

On a clear day you can see up to 15 miles. Please check for times and wheelchair access. From £30. www.theo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2680. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

The View from The Shard Ascend the tallest building in Western Europe in a high-speed lift. At 309m up, on a clear day you can see as far as Windsor – and if you can’t see four major landmarks you can visit again for free.

Check for yoga on Sat at 8.30am (£45), plus silent discos every Sat 10pm (£37.50). Sun-Wed 10am7pm; Thur-Sat 10am-10pm. Advance adult £25.95, child £19.95; on the day adult £30.95, child £24.95. www.theviewfromtheshard.com. 32 London Bridge St, SE1 9SG. T: 0844-499 7111. E10.

Station: London Bridge.

Warner Bros. Studio Tour London Explore behind the scenes of the legendary Harry Potter films in The Making of Harry Potter tour. Visitors can witness iconic sets including the Great Hall, Hagrid’s Hut, Diagon Alley and a recreation of Platform 9¾.

It gives a fascinating insight into filmmaking.

To 28 Jan: Hogwarts in the Snow.

See the studio dressed for Christmas, and get to grips with the different types of ‘snow’ used on set. Please check for times. Adult £39; child £31.

Booking essential. www.wbstudiotour.co.uk.

Studio Tour Drive, Leavesden, Hertfordshire, WD25 7LS. T: 0845-084 0900. Off map. Station: Euston to Watford Junction, then shuttle bus.

Wellington Arch Climb to the viewing galleries of this magnificent arch for panoramic views over the Royal Parks and Houses of Parliament, plus exhibitions. Joint tickets available with Apsley House. Daily 10am-4pm.

Adult £5; child £3. www.english-heritage.org.uk.

Apsley Way, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7JZ. T: 0207930 2726. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Westminster Abbey Consecrated in 1065, this stunning Gothic abbey is the crowning and burial site of most English monarchs. Explore the main floor with its ornate, majestic tombs. Poets’ Corner is the burial place of Charles Dickens and other famous writers. Audio tours available in many languages. Free 30-minute organ recital every Sun, plus occasional choir recitals. Mon-Fri 9.30am-4.30pm; Sat 9.30am2.30pm. Adult £22; child £9. www.westminsterabbey.org. 20 Dean’s Yard, SW1P 3PA. T: 020-7222 5152. F7. Station: Westminster/St James’s Park.

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SIGHTSEEING WWT London Wetland Centre This 104-acre wildlife reserve has the Water’s Edge Café overlooking lakes, ponds and gardens which are home to more than 100 species of rare and wild birds. 13 Jan: Winter Wildlife Walk.

Take a guided tour with a warden, who will point out the birds you’re likely to see at this time of year. £20. Otters are fed daily at 11am and 2pm. Daily 9.30am-4.30pm. Adult £12.26; child £6.75. www.wwt. org.uk. Queen Elizabeth’s Walk, SW13 9WT. T: 0208409 4400. Off map. Station: Barnes.

RIVER TRIPS City Cruises

Trafalgar Square. Free with Big Bus London Tour tickets. Daily 11am. www.bigbustours.com. Depart from Big Bus stop six, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7808 6753. Station: Charing Cross.

Capital Taxi Tours A knowledgeable Blue Badge or City of London guide drives you around in a taxi for up to five people. Choose from London tours by day or night, trips outside the city and themed tours including a Doctor Who tour – on which you’ll see a Tardis and locations from the films and TV series.

Prices vary and are per taxi. www.capitaltaxitours. co.uk. Departure points vary.

T: 020-8590 3621.

Evan Evans The oldest and largest sightseeing company in London has been accompanying visitors on city tours and out-of-town excursions since 1930. Visit everywhere from Warwick Castle and Stratfordupon-Avon to Stonehenge and Bath, as well as all the top London sights. Please check for times and prices. www.evanevanstours.com.

Departure points vary. T: 020-7950 1777.

Golden Tours From day trips to overnight city breaks, the experts offer quality tour experiences from London to popular locations such as Bath, Stonehenge, Windsor Castle and Leeds Castle. The company

Daily guided sightseeing tours on the River Thames between Westminster, Waterloo, Tower and Greenwich piers. River Red Rover is an all-day hop-on, hop-off sightseeing service. Thames Circular Cruise is a 50-minute sightseeing service from Tower Pier or Bankside Pier to Westminster and back. London Showboat cabaret cruise departs from Westminster Pier and includes a four-course meal with live music Fri-Sat. Other cruises also available. Please check the website for times and prices. www.citycruises.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7740 0400.

London Eye River Cruise Live commentary on a 40-minute sightseeing river cruise. Daily 11.45am-4.45pm. No cruises 2-22 Jan due to maintenance. Adult £13.15; child £6.50. Discounted joint tickets with the London Eye available. www.londoneye.com. London Eye Pier, South Bank, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. E8.

Station: Waterloo.

MBNA Thames Clippers The fastest and most frequent fleet on the river, with departures from major London piers every 20 minutes. The boats set off from 22 piers across the capital. Discounts with Oyster cards and contactless payment. Download its free in:flow app, which uses GPS tracking to find out your location, and provides real-time audio explanation of the sights. River Roamer hop-on and hop-off advance adult £16.30; child £8.15; family (2 adults, up to 3 children) £32.60. www.mbnathamesclippers. com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7001 2200.

Thamesjet Try Thames Rush, a 50-minute adrenalinefuelled experience – the most extreme ride on the river – and you’ll enjoy sightseeing, speed and awesome aquabatics all in one. Departs from Westminster Pier. From 10.30am, but depends on the tide so please check for times. Minimum height requirement 1.35m/4ft 5in. Adult from £39; child from £29. www.thamesjet.com.

T: 020-7740 0400.

TOURS & GUIDED WALKS Big Bus Tours Daily sightseeing trips aboard a fleet of opentop double-decker buses. Tickets are valid for 24 hours. A one-day orientation tour includes three walking tours. Adult £35; child £18. www.bigbustours.com. Departure points vary.

T: 020-7808 6753. Station: Victoria.

Big Bus Walking Tours Enjoy a 90-minute historic and royal guided walk from Trafalgar Square, along Carlton Gardens, The Mall and through St James’s Park to Horse Guards Parade, taking in areas which can’t be reached by bus. Departs from bus stop six at www.wheretraveler.com 31

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SIGHTSEEING offers an unrivalled range of tours and services.

Please check for times and prices. www.golden tours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039.

Golden Tours Open-Top Bus Tours See the sights aboard an open-top bus. Live guided (Essential Tour) or multilingual audio commentary (all routes) tours let you hop-on and hop-off. One-day, 24-hour and 48-hour tickets.

Please check for prices. www.goldentours.com.

Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039.

GoToMidtown Tours More than 100 themed 45-minute free tours around Bloomsbury and Holborn. Most walks do not require pre-booking. 10am and 1pm walks start at the

orange information kiosk outside Holborn Tube station; others start at the red sculpture in the courtyard of Central St Giles. www.bee-midtown.org.

Holborn Tube station, 88-94 Kingsway, WC2B 6AA. T: 020-7078 7077. D7/8. Station: Holborn.

Jack the Ripper Tour Blue Badge Guide Richard Jones of London Walking Tours devised these popular two-hour walks, offering an intriguing look at the infamous Jack the Ripper. Groups are small to create a better experience. Booking essential. Daily 7pm from outside Exit 4 of Aldgate East Station. £10. www.jack-the-ripper-tour.com. T: 020-8530 8443. Off map. Station: Aldgate East.

WINNER OF THE TOP HORROR ATTRACTION IN THE WORLD WORLDWIDE ATTRACTION AWARDS

The London Helicopter Tour Discover the capital from the unique perspective of a helicopter, with its uninterrupted views.

Departing from London’s only heliport, glide above the Thames, taking in iconic landmarks including Tower of London, St Paul’s and The Shard. Choose from the 12-minute Buzz, 18-minute Sights or 30-minute Max tour – or spook yourself with an 18-minute ‘open door’ ride (£400 per person). Prices start from £150 per seat for a shared tour. www.thelondonhelicopter.com. The POD Building, Bridges Court, SW11 2RE. T: 020-7887 2626. Off map. Station: Clapham Junction.

London Magical Tours Award-winning provider of private and scheduled group tours to London and its surroundings.

Discover the UK with your own tour team for no parking worries: a professional guide and extra chauffeur, travelling in a private vehicle.

Multilingual guides are available in all languages.

Annual Christmas tours run until 6 Jan. www.londonmagicaltours.com. Departure points vary. T: 0870-489 0156.

London Tailored Tours Private tours for small groups, run by Londoners.

Themed tours include Borough Market, Harry Potter, Brick Lane, ‘Girls Day Out’ and ‘A Royal Morning in London’. Please check for times and prices. www.londontailoredtours.com.

Departure points vary. T: 020-3289 0542.

London Walks London’s oldest walking tour company offers more than 300 walks. Each takes around two hours, departure points vary and there’s no need to book. As well as Jack the Ripper, Harry Potter and ghost walks, there are routes around London’s ‘villages’, including Kensington and Hampstead.

Adult £10; child free when accompanied by an adult. www.walks.com. Departure points vary.

T: 020-7624 3978.

Original London Sightseeing Walk

IMMER AND A H SIVE THEATRE EAR SCAR T PUMPING

E MAZ E!

Ninety-minute walks depart daily from the Original London Visitor Centre, near Trafalgar Square on Cockspur Street. Choose from Changing the Guard at 10am, Rock ‘n’ Roll at 1pm or Jack the Ripper at 4pm (from The Original Tour bus stop at Tower Hill). £9 per walk, or free with an Original London Sightseeing Tour ticket.

An Explore Walks Pass, which grants access to all three walks over a 48-hour period, costs £18. www.theoriginaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

The Original Tour

TAKE AN INTERACTIVE JOURNEY THROUGH LONDONS SPOOKY HISTORY

With more than 65 years’ experience, these live and multilingual open-top guided bus tours take you to the city’s best attractions, allowing you to hop-on and hop-off at more than 80 stops. Its original 24-hour tour includes three free walking tours and a Thames River cruise pass. 24-hour adult £32, child £15; 48-hour adult £42, child £20.

To 28 Feb: All 24 and 48-hour tickets are extended by an extra 24 hours and include an extended Greenwich River Cruise. www.theoriginaltour.com.

17-19 Cockspur St, Trafalgar Square, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

The London Bridge Experience, 2-4 Tooley Street, London Bridge, London SE1 2SY

Royal Albert Hall Tours

TheLondonBridgeExperience.com FREE audio guides available

Take a one-hour Grand Tour of this spectacular Victorian concert hall. It’s open most days throughout the year; please call for times. Adult £13.75; child £6.75. www.royalalberthall.com.

Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7959 0558.

F4. Station: South Kensington.

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SIGHTSEEING Royal Opera House One of the world’s leading opera venues and also home to the Royal Ballet company. Tour behind the scenes for an insight into the venue’s history, where you may also see a production in rehearsal.

Velvet, Gilt and Glamour Tour. This 45-minute option takes you inside the auditorium and to the Royal Retiring Room, which is still used by royal guests.

Please check for tour times and prices. www.roh. org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8.

Station: Covent Garden.

See London by Night Tour Ride around the West End and City in the evening for a different, magical view of the capital. Regular departures from outside The Ritz. Tours last for 90 minutes. Daily 7.30pm & 9.20pm. Adult £18; child £10. www.seelondonbynight.com. 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7183 4744. E6. Station: Green Park.

Shakespeare’s Globe

www.blenheimpalace.com. Woodstock, Oxfordshire, OX20 1PP. T: 01993-810 530. Off map.

Paddington to Oxford, then bus S3.

Chartwell This was the home of Sir Winston Churchill, and where he brought up his young family. Explore the rooms decorated in 1930s style – the museum displays the gifts that Churchill received. His bedroom is accessible by private tour only. Enjoy the gardens and views of the lake. Please check for times and prices. www.nationaltrust.org.uk.

Mapleton Rd, Westerham, Kent, TN16 1PS. T: 01732-868381. Off map. Charing Cross or London Bridge to Sevenoaks, then taxi or bus.

Hampton Court Palace Once the favourite royal residence of King Henry VIII, this Tudor palace and 300-year-old maze is set in 60 acres of parkland on the river. Visit the Tudor kitchens, where feasts were prepared for the king and all his courtiers, and see Henry’s grand state apartments including the Great Hall. The dazzling Cumberland Art Gallery has masterpieces

by Rembrandt, Holbein and more, while the Chapel Royal has magnificent vaulted ceilings.

To 7 Jan: Hampton Court Palace Ice Rink. Daily 10am-4.30pm. Adult £18; child £9. www.hrp.org.uk. Hampton Court, East Molesey, Surrey, KT8 9AU. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map.

Station: Waterloo to Hampton Court.

SEE INSIDE THE WORLD FAMOUS ROYAL ALBERT HALL

This reconstruction of William Shakespeare’s original Elizabethan Globe Theatre has one of the city’s only thatched roofs. Take a tour for an insight into the history of Elizabethan costumes and props. Check for tours of the adjacent Sam Wanamaker Playhouse, a candlelight-only performance space. Please check for times and prices. www.shakespearesglobe.com. 21 New Globe Walk, Bankside, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7902 1400.

E10. Station: Blackfriars.

GROUPS 15+ Special rates apply

Wembley Stadium Tours Go behind the scenes at this famous football stadium and concert venue. The 75-minute guided tour takes you inside the dressing rooms and through the players’ tunnel, and you can see the 1966 World Cup crossbar. Have your photo taken with a replica of the Emirates FA Cup. From 10am; please check for dates. Adult £20; child £12. www.wembleystadium.com/wembley-tours.

Wembley Stadium, HA9 0WS. T: 0800-169 9933.

Off map. Station: Wembley Park.

Yonda On a Yonda tour, feel like a real Londoner as you drive a car around the capital’s top sights and lesser-known streets. The car is fitted with technology that guides you along well-researched routes, with commentary. Congestion Charge is included in the price. Tours take 90 minutes. £60 per tour in a two-seat convertible car; £95 per tour in a four-seat car, with a clear panoramic roof. www.goyonda.com. Q-Park, Park Lane, W1K 7AN. T: 020-3621 5662. E6. Station: Marble Arch.

ROYAL ALBERT HALL

OUT OF TOWN Ashmolean Museum of Art and Archaeology Britain’s first public museum dates back to 1683, when the politician Elias Ashmole left his collection of antiquities and natural curiosities to the University of Oxford. See archaeological artefacts, pre-Raphaelite paintings, Egyptian mummies and Oliver Cromwell’s death mask.

Tue-Sun & bank hols 10am-5pm. Free admission, charges for special exhibitions. www.ashmolean.org.

Beaumont St, Oxford, OX1 2PH. T: 01865-278000.

Off map. Station: Paddington to Oxford.

Blenheim Palace See three centuries of treasures in magnificent state rooms at this Baroque palace, the birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill. The palace is set in 2,100 acres of ‘Capability’ Brown parkland. Please check for times. Adult £24.90; child £13.90.

MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR VISIT End your tour with a luxurious afternoon tea

Call: 020 7589 8212 royalalberthall.com

/royalalberthall @royalalberthall

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SIGHTSEEING Hever Castle and Gardens Dating back to the 13th century, this beautiful castle was the childhood home of Anne Boleyn, the second wife of King Henry VIII. The grounds and gardens are stunning. Please check for times and prices (closed from 2 Jan). www.hevercastle. co.uk. Hever, Edenbridge, Kent, TN8 7NG. T: 01732-865224. Off map.

Palace of Holyroodhouse The Queen’s official residence in Scotland stands at the end of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile, against the spectacular backdrop of Arthur’s Seat. Tour highlights include the glorious state apartments and Mary, Queen of Scots’ chamber. Daily 9.30am4.30pm. Adult £14; child £8.10. www.royal collection.org.uk. Canongate, The Royal Mile, Edinburgh, EH8 8DX. T: 0303-123 7306. Off map.

Station: Edinburgh Waverley.

Leeds Castle

Get your skates on!

There are only a few days left to get your ice-skating fix before London’s festive open-air rinks get packed away for another year. Hurry down to the Tower of London, where you can zoom around on a rink in the dry moat (2 Jan). You’ve got a little longer to skate amid the atmospheric surroundings of the Natural History Museum and Hampton Court Palace (both to 7 Jan), and at London’s first rooftop ice rink, Skylight, at Tobacco Dock (to 6 Jan). Skate at Somerset House (above) runs to 14 Jan, where you can sip mulled wine and Champagne at Fortnum’s Lodge. Skate Late (5 Jan) sees a takeover by London club night Supa Dupa Fly, which will have you boogying along to hip-hop and R ’n’ B.

This fairytale 900-year-old castle was a Norman stronghold, a Jacobean country house and a Georgian mansion, among other things. It has a moat, gardens and parkland, where you can lose yourself in the spiralling yew maze, and see 100 species of birds in the aviary. Look out for falconry displays in the Birds of Prey Centre, behind the maze, with tiny American Kestrels and a Russian Steppe Eagle. Grounds & garden daily 10am-5pm; castle 10.30am-4pm. To 31 Mar: Adult £24.90; child £16.90. www.leeds-castle.com. Maidstone, Kent, ME17 1PL. T: 01622-765400. Off map.

Station: Victoria to Bearsted.

London looks amazing, beautifully lit up at night

See

By Night

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at 19:30 and 21:20 Spectacular live guided tours of London by night

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SOMERSET HOUSE © JAMES BRYANT

London’s oldest and best Taxi Tour company offers more London’s oldest andthan best200 Taxitours Tourof London and the countryside company offers more than 200 tours of Sit backLondon and relax asthe your Registered driver and countryside Guide takes you in an Iconic Sit back and relax asaround your Registered driver Licensed London Black Taxi Guide takes you around in an Iconic Licensed London Black Taxi Choose from 3,4,5,and 8 hour London tours.

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Countryside tours including Stonehenge, Oxford, Bath, Windsor, Downton Abbey Countryside tours including Stonehenge, Oxford, Bath, Windsor, Downton Abbey

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Westminster Abbey

Stonehenge The world’s most famous stone circle and a World Heritage Site, Stonehenge is more than 5,000 years old. With obscure Neolithic origins, it is perfectly aligned with the rising sun at the solstice. English Heritage members get exclusive early-morning tours. The visitor centre has an exhibition, shop and café. Check for times and prices. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Amesbury, Wiltshire, SP4 7DE. T: 0870-333 1181. Off map.

Station: Waterloo to Salisbury, then bus or taxi.

THEY’RE ALL HERE BRITAIN’S GREATEST STORIES

Historic Royal Places – Spines Format 6 Sheet Portrait Syon Park Spine Width 200mm This stunning Palladian mansion set in parkland is Spine 1800mm home to the Duke of Northumberland.

Don’tHeight miss the incredible interiors, Grade I-listed landscape HRP Text 121pt (Tracked at +40) gardens and Great Conservatory. Please check Palace Text 181pt (Tracked at -10) for times and prices. www.syonpark.co.uk. Syon Park, Brentford, Middlesex, TW8 8JF. T: 020-8560 Icon 114mm Wide (2.8pt/1.4pt) 0882. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Syon Lane.

Waddesdon Manor

Warwick Castle

Built by William the Conqueror in 1068, this castle is now a family-friendly experience with landscaped gardens designed by ‘Capability’ Brown. Don’t miss Merlin: The Dragon Tower and displays of medieval weaponry, regular falconry displays and the spooky dungeons. Please check for times. Castle adult £19, child £17; castle & dungeon adult £23, child £20. www.warwick-castle.com. Warwick, Warwickshire, CV34 6AH. Off map. Station: Warwick.

Watts Gallery Artists’ Village An Arts and Crafts gem in the Surrey Hills, with stunning Victorian paintings and sculptures.

Visit The Tea Shop, then wander to the nearby Grade I-listed Watts Chapel. Tue-Sun & bank hols 11am-5pm. Adult £9.50 (Tue £4.75); child free. www.wattsgallery.org.uk/about-us/artists-village.

Down Lane, Compton, Surrey, GU3 1DQ. T: 01483810235. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Guildford, then bus or taxi.

Windsor Castle The Queen’s weekend home and the world’s oldest inhabited castle, which has been home to 39 monarchs. Includes state apartments furnished with art by Rembrandt, Rubens and Canaletto.

Don’t miss the State Rooms, with great art, and Queen Mary’s Doll’s House. Changing the Guard alternate days 11am except Sun. Daily 9.45am4.15pm (closed 15-17 Jan). Adult £21.20; child £12.30. www.royalcollection.org.uk. Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 1NJ. T: 0303-123 7304. Off map.

Station: Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Central or Windsor & Eton Riverside.

ESCAPE

Hillsborough Castle Hillsborough Castle

Historic Royal Places – Spines Format 6 Sheet Portrait Spine Width 200mm Spine Height 1800mm Book online todayatfor fast track discounted entry HRP Text 121pt (Tracked +40) FREE AUDIO(Tracked TOURS . CAFÉat AND RESTAURANT . CONCERTS AND LECTURES .

Palace Text 181pt -10) Icon 114mm Wide (2.8pt/1.4pt)

This Renaissance-style chateau was built in the late 19th century. See the wine cellars, plus magnificent gardens and an aviary. Wed-Sun; please check for exact times. The main rooms of the house are closed for conservation until Mar. Adult £10; child £5. www.waddesdon manor.org. Near Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire, HP18 0JH. T: 01296-653226. Off map. Station: Marylebone to Aylesbury.

SHOP

GREAT INDOORS TO THE

Discover the hidden stories of Britain’s royal past this weekend at Henry VIII’s Hampton Court Palace.

Woburn Abbey and Gardens Set in a 3,000-acre deer park, this historic house has been home to the earls and dukes of Bedford for nearly 400 years. Tour the house for art and antiques, and the Repton-inspired gardens.

The abbey is closed until 23 Mar. Check for times and prices. www.woburnabbey.co.uk. Woburn, Bedfordshire, MK17 9WA. T: 01525-290333.

Off map. Station: St Pancras to Flitwick.

Book online to save

Just 35 minutes from Waterloo

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES | THE GUIDE This image: Les Mées Below: Bahrain I

Photo opportunity When the Hayward Gallery, the home of visual arts at the Southbank Centre, opened on the banks of the River Thames in 1968, the now-iconic building ‘faced a steady stream of detractors who deplored its design’, says Ralph Rugoff, who has been director of the gallery since 2006. Fifty years later, however, as it reopens following a two-year refurbishment, ‘public opinion has shifted quite profoundly, not only about the Hayward but about Brutalist architecture in general.’

The focus of the renovation were its 66 pyramid skylights, one of the building’s most recognisable features. Designed to make use of the natural light so prized by artists and curators, they’ve never worked as intended, letting in rainwater to the extent that a false ceiling had to be built to protect the interior from the elements. This false ceiling reduced the height of the exhibition space by several metres, limiting the range of works it could display.

Removing this ceiling and repairing the roof lights gives the galleries ‘an amazingly luminous and voluminous feel’, says Rugoff. The repairs also make for a better visitor experience, too.

The exhibition that reopens the Hayward is the first major UK retrospective of the work of the German photographer Andreas Gursky (from 25 Jan). It features 60 of his spectacular large-scale photographs, portraying such dazzling scenes as a warehouse packed with

products ready for distribution; windows in the Paris district of Montparnasse; and the abstract swirl of a Bahraini race course shot from above.

Gursky, who has exhibited all over the world since he started producing work in the 1980s, had his last solo show in London in 2007, at the White Cube. His practice of digitally manipulating images to create scenes that are familiar but not actually ‘true’ in the strict sense of the word couldn’t be more relevant to the current discussion around ‘fake news’, with false images used to support particular stories and political agendas.

The exhibition is also a fitting way to reopen the Hayward after its two-year closure. ‘Gursky is a hugely influential artist and a pioneering innovator, whose work explores changing aspects of our contemporary landscape in different areas around the world,’ says Rugoff.

‘We wanted to reopen with a show by an artist who has changed his medium, much in the same way as the design of the Hayward set a new direction for gallery architecture which today is being copied quite widely.’

For full listing, see p. 40

ANDREAS GURSKY’S LES MÉES AND BAHRAIN I, 2016 © ANDREAS GURSKY/DACS, 2017 COURTESY OF SPRÜTH MAGERS

The transformed Hayward Gallery reopens with a retrospective of German photographer Andreas Gursky, says Jo Caird

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 72-73

MUSEUMS Arsenal Stadium Tours & Museum Football fans can enjoy a self-guided audio tour for a sneak peek inside the players’ changing rooms and tunnel or a Legends Tour. Self-guided tours Mon-Sat 9.30am-6pm; Sun 10am-4pm; Legends Tour from 11am (check for dates). Museum open Mon-Sat 10.30am-6.30pm; Sun 10.30am-4.30pm; check for match-related closures. Self-guided: adult £20; child £10. Legends: adult from £40; child from £20.75.

Museum only: adult £10; child £7. www.arsenal.com/ tours. Emirates Stadium, Hornsey Rd, N5 1BU. T: 020-7619 5000. Off map. Station: Arsenal.

Top Pick

Bank of England Museum Explore the story of the bank from its foundation in 1694 to its status today as the UK’s central bank. The Stories from the City exhibition explores the Bank of England in literature, in honour of the new Jane Austen £10 note. Museum closed 2-12 Jan. Mon-Fri 10am-5pm; closed bank hols. Admission free. www.bankofengland.co.uk/ museum. Threadneedle St, EC2R 8AH. T: 020-7601 5545. D10. Station: Bank.

Benjamin Franklin House This charming 18th-century townhouse was the last remaining home of the American Founding Father. Architectural tours Mon; historical shows Wed-Sun (please check for times). Mon tours: adult £6; child free. Shows: adult £8; child free. www.ben jaminfranklinhouse.org. 36 Craven St, WC2N 5NF. T: 020-7925 1405. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

BUS STOP FLAG, SCHLEGER STYLE WITH BRONZE FRAME, 1935 © TFL FROM THE LONDON TRANSPORT MUSEUM COLLECTION

The British Museum Unrivalled collection of antiquities, plus the Queen Elizabeth II Great Court. Huge permanent displays including the Roman Empire, Ancient Iran and India.

To 14 Jan: Scythians: Warriors of Ancient Siberia. Explore this nomadic tribe, with exhibits including mummified horses. Sat-Thur 10am-5.30pm; Fri 10am-8.30pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.british museum.org. Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 0207323 8299. D7/8. Station: Russell Square.

Chelsea FC Stadium Museum & Tours

The immigrant’s influence There has been a lot of debate about immigration in Britain in recent years, and with negotiations continuing on the terms of the country’s exit from the EU, that’s not likely to change any time soon. So it’s encouraging to visit an exhibition such as the Jewish Museum’s Designs on Britain (p. 38) and hear positive stories of immigration – namely, the major impact of Jewish émigré designers on 20th-century British design.

Iconic designs such as Transport for London’s bus stop sign (above), the logo of the Tate & Lyle sugar company, and the Raleigh Chopper bicycle are among the exhibits on display that were created by Jewish designers who came to the UK from Europe, bringing with them a knowledge of European modernism.

The Design Museum

The Foundling Museum

In Kensington, find one of the world’s leading museums of contemporary design and architecture.

To 28 Jan: Beazley Designs of the Year.

Shortlisted designs on display (p. 38). Daily 10am6pm. First Fri every month 10am-8pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.design museum.org. 224-238 Kensington High St, W8 6AG. T: 020-3862 5900. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

Britain’s original home for abandoned children, founded in 1739 by Thomas Coram, William Hogarth and George Frideric Handel. Check for regular exhibitions and events. Tue-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £8.25; child free. www.foundling museum.org.uk. 40 Brunswick Square, WC1N 1AZ. T: 020-7841 3600. C8. Station: Russell Square.

Interactive tour of Chelsea FC, including players’ tunnel and dressing rooms, plus trophies in the museum. Tours daily 10am-3pm; check for closures and monthly ex-players tours with past stars of the game (from £70). Museum open daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £22 (museum only £11); child £15 (£9). www.chelseafc. com/tours. Stamford Bridge, SW6 1HS. T: 0871-984 1955. Off map.

Chelsea FC is the only Station: Fulham Broadway.

The Fan Museum

Unusual museum dedicated to the art of the fan, with examples from the 12th century to today. It London football team to have won the also has a café. Tue-Sat 11am-5pm; Churchill War Rooms Champions League Sun noon-5pm. Adult £4; child £3.

Explore the fortified secret bunker www.thefanmuseum.org.uk. 12 Crooms and the Cabinet War Rooms beneath Hill, SE10 8ER. T: 020-8305 1441. Off map.

Westminster, where Prime Minister Sir Station: Cutty Sark.

Winston Churchill worked during World War II. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £17.25; child £8.60.

Florence Nightingale Museum www.iwm.org.uk. Clive Steps, King Charles St, SW1A Located in St Thomas’ Hospital, learn about the work 2AQ. T: 020-7930 6961. F7. Station: Westminster. of the pioneering 19th-century British nurse and Clink Prison Museum health reformer, known as ‘The Lady with the Lamp’.

In this former prison dating back to 1144, hands-on The museum includes items relating to the Crimean exhibits reveal London’s penal past and gruesome War and nursing artefacts. Free tours every Tue at instruments of torture. Mon-Fri 10am-6pm; Sat-Sun 3.30pm (except school holidays). Daily 10am-5pm.

10am-7.30pm. Adult £7.50; child £5.50. www.clink.

Adult £7.50; child £3.80. www.florence-nightingale. co.uk. 1 Clink St, SE1 9DG. T: 020-7403 0900. E10. co.uk. 2 Lambeth Palace Rd, SE1 7EW. T: 020-7620 Station: London Bridge.

0374. F8. Station: Waterloo/Westminster.

The Geffrye To 7 Jan: Restored 18th-century almshouses with rooms recreating English interiors from 1600 to today. Christmas Past: 400 Years of Seasonal Traditions in English Homes. Authentic festive home decorations over the centuries, plus related events. Gardens and almshouse tours only from 8 Jan, when the museum will close for a two-year redevelopment. Admission free, charges for tours and special exhibitions. www.geffryemuseum.org.uk. 136 Kingsland Rd, E2 8EA. T: 020-7739 9893. Off map. Station: Hoxton.

The Guards Museum The history, stories and regimental heritage of the five regiments of the Foot Guards: Grenadier, Coldstream, Scots, Irish and Welsh Guards, which today watch over the Royal Palaces.

Daily 10am-4pm; closed 22 Jan. Adult £6; child free. www.theguardsmuseum.com. Wellington Barracks, Birdcage Walk, SW1E 6HQ. T: 020-7414 3271. D5. Station: St James’s Park/Westminster. www.wheretraveler.com 37

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Household Cavalry Museum

London Film Museum

National Maritime Museum

Go behind the scenes of the Household Cavalry Regiments. Changing the Queen’s Life Guard Mon-Sat 11am, Sun 10am. Museum daily 10am-5pm.

Adult £7; child £5. www.householdcavalrymuseum. co.uk. Horse Guards, Whitehall, SW1A 2AX. T: 020-7930 3070. E7/8. Station: Westminster.

Bond in Motion is the largest official exhibition of James Bond vehicles that feature in the film series, including the Aston Martin. Sun-Fri 10am-6pm; Sat 10am-7pm. Adult £14.50; child £9.50. www.london filmmuseum.com. 45 Wellington St, WC2E 7BN. T: 020-7202 7042. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Imperial War Museum

London Transport Museum

Displays relating to conflicts from World War I. To 28 May: Age of Terror: Art Since 9/11. Artists’ responses to war since 11 September 2001. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for some special exhibitions. www.iwm.org.uk. Lambeth Rd, SE1 6HZ. T: 020-7416 5000. E5. Station: Lambeth North.

Located in the Grade II-listed Flower Market, the museum displays the history of London’s transport. To 31 Jan: Poster Girls – A Century of Art and Design. Highlighting 20th and 21st-century female graphic artists who designed artwork for London Transport. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £17.50; child free. www.ltmuseum.co.uk. Covent Garden Piazza, WC2E 7BB. T: 020-7379 6344. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

The world’s largest maritime museum, with 10 galleries including the Nelson, Navy, Nation gallery exploring the life of the naval hero.

To 7 Jan: Death in the Ice. Sir John Franklin’s final expedition. Daily 10am-5pm.

Admission free; charges for events and exhibitions. www.rmg.co.uk. Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 0208858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich.

Jewish Museum Documenting Jewish history in the UK from 1066 to today, including a poignant Holocaust section (p. 37). Daily 10am-5pm; Fri 10am-2pm. Adult £7.50; child £3.50. www.jewishmuseum.org.uk. Raymond Burton House, 129-131 Albert St, NW1 7NB. T: 0207284 7384. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

Leighton House Museum The restored former home of Frederic, Lord Leighton is a museum of his life and work.

Wed-Mon 10am-5.30pm, tour at 3pm every Wed and Sun (included in ticket price). Leighton Lates (includes live music and free tour) on 12 Jan, 10am9pm. Adult £9; child £7. www.leightonhouse.co.uk.

12 Holland Park Rd, W14 8LZ. T: 020-7602 3316.

Off map. Station: Kensington Olympia.

Museum of London

Natural History Museum Astounding collections, including whale skeletons and fossils. To 28 May: Wildlife Photographer of the Year. See the 100 best images from the annual competition. Daily 10am-5.50pm.

Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nhm.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 5BD. T: 0207942 5000. F4. Station: South Kensington.

The world’s largest urban history museum has numerous exhibits, including ones about Roman and Medieval London. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions and walking tours. www.museumoflondon.org.uk. 150 London Wall, EC2Y 5HN. T: 020-7001 9844. D10. Station: Barbican.

Queen’s House

Museum of London Docklands

Royal Air Force Museum

The history of the River Thames, from its time as a Roman thoroughfare to the regeneration of the Docklands area. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free, charges for special exhibitions. www.museumof london.org.uk. T: 020-7001 9844. Off map.

Station: Canary Wharf/West India Quay.

This 17th-century house, an architectural masterpiece by Inigo Jones, boasts 22 lavish rooms.

Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.rmg.co.uk/ queens-house. Queen’s House, Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark.

National aviation museum focusing on the Royal Air Force. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.rafmuseum.org.uk. Grahame Park Way, NW9 5LL. T: 020-8205 2266. Off map.

Station: Colindale.

Science Museum A huge museum dedicated to science, technology and medical achievements.

To 15 Jan: Wounded: Conflict, Casualties and Care. The human impact of World War I. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for exhibitions. www.sciencemuseum.org.uk.

Exhibition Rd, SW7 2DD. T: 0333-241 4000.

F4. Station: South Kensington.

Sir John Soane’s Museum This 19th-century townhouse and library was owned by the distinguished architect Sir John Soane. Check for tours and late-night opening events. Wed-Sun & bank hols 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.soane.org. 13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields, WC2A 3BP. T: 020-7405 2107. D8. Station: Holborn.

Somerset House This neo-classical, 18th-century building on the River Thames houses the Embankment Galleries.

From 31 Jan: Eloise Hawser: By the deep, by the mark. Exhibition about attempts to reclaim the Thames (p. 40). Galleries Wed-Fri 11am-8pm; Sat-Tue 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.somersethouse.org.uk.

Strand, WC2R 1LA. T: 020-7845 4600. E8. Temple.

Grand designs A hijab designed by Nike, a cargo-carrying robot that follows you around and the Pokémon Go game are just a few of the nominees for the prestigious Beazley Designs of the Year competition at The Design Museum (to 28 Jan; p. 37). Some of the 62 shortlisted designs that appear across six categories – architecture, digital, fashion, graphics, product and transport – are for products, posters and buildings that you may already be familiar with. Yara Said’s Refugee Nation flag, designed for Amnesty International, was flown at the 2016 Olympics by the first-ever refugee team to enter the competition, for example. Others, such as Zaha Hadid’s new Port House in Antwerp (above), are already completed. Don’t miss this glimpse of the future of design.

The flagship store of Twinings since 1706 has a tiny exhibition on the company’s history. Mon-Fri 9.30am-7pm; Sat 10.30am-5.30pm; Sun 11am-5pm.

Admission free. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.

Victoria and Albert Museum The V&A’s outstanding collection of fine and applied arts spans fashion, paintings and ceramics.

To 25 Feb: Opera: Passion, Power and Politics. Exploring the vivid culture of opera over 400 years. To 8 Apr: Winnie-the-Pooh: Exploring a Classic. Telling the story of AA Milne’s honey-loving creation. Daily 10am5.45pm; Fri 10am-10pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.vam.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 2RL. T: 020-7942 2000. F4/5. Station: South Kensington.

PORT HOUSE BY ZAHA HADID ARCHITECTS © HELENE BINET

Twinings Museum

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PASSION, POWER AND POLITICS Sponsored by

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07/12/2017 10:57

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Wellcome Collection

Hayward Gallery

The Photographers’ Gallery

Wellcome Trust’s public venue houses hundreds of fascinating artefacts relating to health and the body.

To 14 Jan: Can Graphic Design Save Your Life? Exploring the relationship between design and the healthcare industry, including the history of campaigns and digital teaching aids.

Check for times. Admission free. www.wellcome collection.org. 183 Euston Rd, NW1 2BE. T: 0207611 2222. C7. Station: Euston.

The world-renowned Hayward Gallery reopens on 25 Jan following two years of refurbishment (p. 36).

Check for opening times. Free, though charges for some exhibitions. www.southbankcentre.co.uk.

Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 0207960 4200. E8. Station: Waterloo.

London’s largest gallery devoted to photography, with several temporary exhibitions. To 11 Feb: Instant Stories: Wim Wenders’ Polaroids. A rare look into the world of the filmmaker. Mon-Sat 10am-6pm; Thur 10am-8pm; Sun 11am-6pm. Admission free before noon, then £4; child free. www.thephotographers gallery.org.uk. 16-18 Ramillies St, W1F 7LW. T: 0207087 9300. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

The museum’s displays range from trophies to rackets. To 4 Mar: On Air: Wimbledon and the BBC 1927-2017. Exhibition on the BBC’s broadcasting of championships. Daily 10am-5pm. Museum adult £13; child £8. Museum & Tour adult £25; child £15. One free child with every full-price adult. www.wimbledon.com/museum. All England Lawn Tennis Club, Church Rd, SW19 5AE. T: 020-8946 6131. Off map. Station: Southfields then bus 493 or a 12-minute walk.

GALLERIES Barbican Art Gallery Multi-arts venue with two exhibition spaces for contemporary art: the Art Gallery and The Curve.

To 28 Jan: Basquiat: Boom for Real.

The UK’s first major exhibition of Jean-Michel Basquiat, a New York street artist who died in 1988 aged 28. He painted one of the most expensive paintings ever sold at auction. Check for times and prices. www.barbican.org.uk. Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 4141.

D10. Station: Barbican.

One of the world’s greatest galleries, with works

by Western European masters from the 13th to 19th centuries. To 18 Feb: Monochrome: Painting in Black and White. Journey through a history of monochrome with artists including Rembrandt and Picasso. Daily 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm.

Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nationalgallery.org.uk. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7747 2885. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

National Portrait Gallery One of the nation’s most prominent galleries, more than 150 years old, with works depicting famous British people. To 8 Feb: Taylor Wessing Photographic Portrait Prize. The finalists of this prestigious annual competition. Daily 10am-6pm; Thur & Fri 10am9pm (regular Fri eve events). Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.npg.org.uk.

St Martin’s Place, WC2H 0HE. T: 020-7312 2463.

E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Newport Street Gallery Damien Hirst’s huge gallery exhibits work from his extensive art collection. Tue-Sun & bank hols 10am-6pm. Admission free. www.newport streetgallery.com. Newport St, SE11 6AJ. T: 020-3141 9320. G8. Station: Vauxhall/ Lambeth North.

The beauty of the river British artist Eloise Hawser spent more than a year researching the history of Somerset House and the River Thames for By the deep, by the mark (from 31 Jan; p. 38). Part exhibition, part installation, the show explores the relationship between this beautiful 18th-century building on the Strand, the river that once ran straight into it, and civil engineer Joseph Bazalgette’s grand sewer project, which transformed this area of London in the 1900s. Hawser, a resident artist at Somerset House, uses maps, models and archival images to draw comparisons between feats of civil engineering and the workings of the human body.

The Queen’s Gallery This smart gallery adjoining Buckingham Palace has temporary exhibitions, with works sourced from 500 years of treasures from the Royal Collection.

To 13 May: Charles II: Art & Power. Exhibition exploring the court of the Restoration monarch (p. 18). Daily 10am-5.30pm. Adult £11; child £5.50. www.royal collection.org.uk. Buckingham Palace, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7301. F7. Station: Green Park.

Royal Academy of Arts Attractive 18th-century building with RA Collection works in all media. To 3 Jan: Dalí / Duchamp.

The surprising friendship and working relationship between the prominent Surrealist artists.

To 15 Apr: Charles I: King and Collector. Discover the art collection of Charles I (p. 18). Daily 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-10pm; check for regular special events.

Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.royalacademy.org.uk. 6 Burlington Gardens, Piccadilly, W1J 0BD. T: 020-7300 8000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Green Park.

Saatchi Gallery Contemporary art in a huge Georgian building.

All exhibitions are temporary, and usually free.

To 7 Jan: Art Riot: Post-Soviet Actionism. Dedicated to Russian protest art over the past 25 years. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.saatchigallery.co.uk. Duke of York’s HQ, King’s Rd, SW3 4RY. T: 020-7811 3070. G5. Station: Sloane Square.

Serpentine Gallery This gallery in Kensington Gardens has modern and contemporary exhibitions. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm.

Admission free. www.serpentinegalleries.org.

Kensington Gardens, W2 3XA. T: 020-7402 6075.

E4. Station: South Kensington.

Tate Britain The nation’s leading collection of British art from 1500 to today, including the world’s largest collection of works by Turner. To 7 May: Impressionists in London – French Artists in Exile. How the artists who fled the Franco-Prussian war coped with life and the art scene in London. Daily 10am-6pm.

Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8888. G8. Station: Pimlico.

Tate Modern World-class international modern art in the transformed Bankside Power Station. To 18 Feb: Red Star over Russia: A Revolution in Visual Culture 1905-55. A visual depiction of the period until the death of Stalin. Sun-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri & Sat 10am-10pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Bankside, SE1 9TG. T: 020-7887 8888. E9. Station: Southwark.

Whitechapel Gallery Influential East End gallery, showcasing a range of contemporary art. Tue-Sun 11am-6pm; Thur 11am-9pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.whitechapel.org. 77-82 Whitechapel High St, E1 7QX. T: 020-7522 7888.

Off map. Station: Aldgate East.

BY THE DEEP, BY THE MARK © ELOISE HAWSER

Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum & Tours

The National Gallery

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Want to feel the weight of the Championships trophies? Interested in watching an interactive ghost of John McEnroe? Keen to cast your eyes over Andy Murray’s title-winning whites?

Fall in love with Wimbledon

Then step inside the multi-dimensional journey that is Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum. With complimentary audio guides in 10 languages, learn about the history of the sport, see the Championship trophies, and the amazing new Virtual Reality experience. You may also take the behind the scenes tour of the grounds and explore the home of tennis, including Centre Court, for a truly inspirational visit.

Open Daily: 10:00am until 5:00pm Nearest Underground: Southfields The Museum Building, The All England Lawn Tennis & Croquet Club, Church Road, Wimbledon, London SW19 5AE Supported by

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ENTERTAINMENT | THE GUIDE

It’s a bug’s life

The UK debut of Cirque du Soleil’s spectacular Ovo is coming to the Royal Albert Hall (from 7 Jan). Set to a score of Brazilian samba and Portuguese tunes, Ovo delves into a kingdom of insects. It buzzes with life as ants juggle fruit, a spider hangs from a web and butterflies flit across the stage. Dragonflies, fireflies, cockroaches and crickets, meanwhile, perform contortion, trapeze and trampoline acts, catch diabolos and balance on slackwires.

Meaning egg in Portuguese, Ovo covers a day in the life of an insect as The Foreigner, a fly from a foreign land, brings a mysterious egg with him. It’s also a love story between The Foreigner and a ladybug.

Londoner Alanna Baker (right), crowned gymnastics European Champion in 2011 and winner of bronze in the 2012 World Championships, is one of the performers.

After seeing a show at the Royal Albert Hall aged eight, Baker told her parents she wanted to perform. Now, 18 years later, she’s returning to play a character known as the Black Spider.

She says: ‘The underlying story is that everyone is equal, everyone should be accepted for who they are regardless of their shape, size, colour, race or age. As insects, we welcome the foreign object – The Foreigner – into our community.’

Cirque du Soleil is at the top of its game, but does anything ever go wrong? Baker says: ‘There are always bloopers that only we notice. When I first joined, I fell off a wall.

I was holding a top grip when I slipped and fell. Luckily I was OK; I fell on a trampoline, ran off and no one noticed – not even my artistic director. they do. But why should you ‘Once, a couple of performers see this show? ‘We’ve added got their straps stuck, so they projections and swinging were hanging there until I got Make the most of your poles, so there’s much them down. Another time, evening by booking a hospitality package more involvement with the a new guy couldn’t get up and combine a meal audience,’ Baker says. ‘Our a ramp. He got stuck and kept with the show performers also walk into the tripping up over his feet. It www.royal audience to ensure that they’re alberthall.com wasn’t funny at the time, but now involved with us.’ we look back and laugh. We joked Baker’s favourite scene is when the we’ll get a mistake jar, and put in a butterflies swoop and land and leap and fly in pound coin every time we make a mistake, then treat the group to dinner with the takings.’ perfect unison. ‘It’s so elegant, effortless and pleasing to the eye,’ she says. ‘With projections If you’ve seen other Cirque du Soleil shows, you’ll know the performers are experts at what behind them and smoke underneath them,

everything comes together. The two incredible acrobats and artists have both been circus acts for eight years and work really well together, so it’s a beautiful, strong act to watch.

‘The wall act is also impressive, with crickets on trampolines and spiders on the wall performing gravity-defying feats 4.5m (15ft) above the ground. Wherever you’re sitting, you get a good view; if you’re at the front you see the wall, and from the side you see the air track better. It’s so energetic, and such a bang to finish the show with!’

For full listings, turn to p. 44

ALANNA BAKER COURTESY OF CIRQUE DU SOLEIL; ICON © ISTOCK

As Cirque du Soleil’s Ovo brings creepy-crawlies to the Royal Albert Hall, Sarah Riches meets one of its stars

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‘BELIEVE THE HYPE’ N E W YO RK POST

THE MUSICAL MatildaTheMusical.com

CAMBRIDGE THEATRE, London, WC2H 9HU WL MATILDA.indd 1

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. References in listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on p. 72-73. Check for complete listings. TKTS booth has discounted tickets (Leicester Square Gardens, WC2H 0AP) Tickets £14.75-£99.75. www.delfontmackintosh.co.uk.

Noël Coward Theatre, St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4AU. T: 0844-482 5140. E8. Station: Leicester Square.

Hamilton Award-winning musical, which is sung and rapped, about the life of American Founding Father, Alexander Hamilton. Please check for times and prices. www.hamiltonthemusical.co.uk.

Victoria St, SW1E 5EA. T: 0844-482 5138. E7.

Station: Victoria.

Kinky Boots A shoe factory starts making boots for drag queens. With music by Cyndi Lauper. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £19.50-£125. www.kinkybootsthemusical.co.uk. Adelphi Theatre, 409-412 Strand, WC2R 0NS. T: 0844-579 0094.

E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Les Misérables

A play that premiered at the National Theatre, scooping multiple Olivier and Tony Awards, is returning to the capital. Amadeus (from 11 Jan; p. 46), by the late Peter Shaffer, premiered in 1979 and was adapted into a film of the same name in 1984 – which won eight Academy Awards, four BAFTAs and four Golden Globes. The play was staged again at the National Theatre in 2016 alongside a live Mozart soundtrack performed by the Southbank Sinfonia. Directed by Michael Longhurst, it is a fictional account of an elderly composer, Salieri (Lucian Msamati), who narrates how jealous he felt of his student prodigy – a young Mozart (Adam Gillen). Salieri hatches schemes to bring about Mozart’s downfall, with unexpected consequences.

MUSICALS & PERFORMANCES Aladdin This hit musical has lyrics by Tim Rice. Check for times and prices. www.aladdinthemusical.co.uk.

Prince Edward Theatre, Old Compton St, W1D 4HS. T: 0844-482 5151. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

An American in Paris To 6 Jan: An American war veteran

falls for a woman in 1940s Paris. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £19.50-£125. www.an americaninparisthemusical.co.uk. Dominion Theatre, 268-269 Tottenham Court Rd, W1T 7AQ. T: 0845200 7982. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Annie Orphan Annie is invited to spend Christmas with a millionaire. Mon & Wed-Sat 7.30pm; Thur, Sat & Sun 3pm. Tickets £20-£110. www.piccadillytheatre.org.

Piccadilly Theatre, 16 Denman St, W1D 7DY. T: 0844-871 7630. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Book of Mormon This satire follows two church missionaries in Uganda. Please check for times. Tickets £32.25£202.25. www.bookofmormonlondon.com.

Prince of Wales Theatre, Coventry St, W1D 6AS. T: 0844-482 5110. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

A Christmas Carol To 20 Jan: New adaptation of Dickens’ classic. Check for times. Tickets £8.50£125. www.oldvictheatre.com. The Old Vic, The Cut, SE1 8NB. T: 0844-871 7628. F9. Station: Waterloo.

The Crystal Egg From 6 Jan: HG Wells’ story of Charley Cave, who inherits a crystal egg after his father dies, with dangerous results. Check for times. Tickets £20-£30. www.thevaults.london. The Vaults, Leake St, SE1 7NN. T: 020-401 9603. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Dick Whittington To 14 Jan: A classic pantomime starring Julian Clary and Elaine Paige. Check for times. Tickets £22.50-£125. www.reallyuseful theatres.co.uk. London Palladium, Argyll St, W1F 7TF. T: 0844-412 2704. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Dreamgirls Glee TV star Amber Riley plays Effie, a member of a female singing trio from Chicago. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £20-£175. www.savoy theatre.org. Savoy Theatre, Strand, WC2R 0ET. T: 0844-871 7687. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Everybody’s Talking About Jamie A 16-year-old living on a Sheffield council estate has a secret. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm.

Tickets £10-£85. www.apollotheatrelondon.co.uk.

Apollo Theatre, Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. T: 0330-333 4809. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

42nd Street Comedy about a dance troupe, starring Sheena Easton. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm.

Tickets £15-£125. www.42ndstreetmusical.co.uk.

Theatre Royal Drury Lane, Catherine St, WC2B 5JF. T: 0844-858 8877. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Girl from the North Country Bob Dylan’s songs help tell the story of a 1934 Minnesota community. Please check for times.

Disney’s The Lion King Wonderful adaptation of the Disney film with ingenious costumes and inventive puppetry. Please check for times. Tickets £48-£179. www.thelionking. co.uk. Lyceum Theatre, 21 Wellington St, WC2E 7RQ. T: 0844-871 3000. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Mamma Mia! A tribute to the music of ABBA, with a feel-good story set on a Greek island. Mon-Sat 7.45pm; Thur & Sat 3pm. Tickets £27.25-£102.25. www.mammamia.com. Novello Theatre, Aldwych, WC2B 4LD. T: 0844-482 5115. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Matilda the Musical Based on Roald Dahl’s book about a girl with magic powers. Please check for times. Tickets £25-£122.50. www.matildathemusical.com. Cambridge Theatre, 32-34 Earlham St, WC2 9HU. T: 0844-412 4652. D8.

Station: Covent Garden.

Motown the Musical The story of Motown Records, which launched the careers of Diana Ross and more, is packed with popular hits. Please check for times and prices. www.shaftesburytheatre.com. Shaftesbury Theatre, 210 Shaftesbury Ave, WC2H 8DP. T: 020-7379 5399.

D8. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Ovo From 7 Jan: New show from Cirque du Soleil (p. 42). Please check for times and prices. www.royalalberthall.com. Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212.

F4. Station: South Kensington.

The Phantom of the Opera A mysterious masked man haunts the Paris Opera House. Please check for times. Tickets £48-£97.50. www.thephantomoftheopera.com. Her Majesty’s Theatre, 57 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QL. T: 0844-412 2707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Rat Pack – Live from Las Vegas Frank, Sammy and Dean sing classic favourites including seasonal standards. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 3pm. £15-£89.50. www.trh.co.uk. Royal Haymarket, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HT. T: 020-7930 8800. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

AMADEUS © MARC BRENNER

Green with envy

The world’s longest-running musical is set in postrevolutionary France. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £39.75-£152.25. www.lesmis.com.

Queen’s Theatre, 51 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 6BA. T: 0844-482 5160. D8. Station: Leicester Square/ Piccadilly Circus.

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Family affair A play that has stood the test of time comes to the Wyndham’s Theatre. After premiering in Sweden in 1956, Eugene O’Neill’s Long Day’s Journey into the Night (from 27 Jan) transferred to Broadway, going on to win a Tony Award for best play. Directed by Richard Eyre – who was director of the National Theatre for a decade until 1997 – the drama is set on a single day in Connecticut in August 1912.

Jeremy Irons stars as James Tyrone, a miser and heavy drinker who is as gloomy as his wife Mary (Lesley Manville), who is addicted to morphine and unable to cope with their elder son Jamie’s promiscuity and younger son Edmund’s illness. As they taunt and accuse one another, tensions rise and family bonds become strained.

School of Rock: The Musical

Belleville

Heisenberg: The Uncertainty Prinicple

A musician tries to teach his students to be rock stars. Please check for times. Tickets £15-£129.50. www.schoolofrockthemusical.com. New London Theatre, 166 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PF. T: 020-7452 3000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Newlyweds live the high life in bohemian Paris, until things turn sour. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £10-£40. www.donmarwarehouse. com. Donmar Warehouse, 41 Earlham St, WC2H 9LX. T: 0844-871 7624. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Stomp

The Birthday Party

To 6 Jan: Two strangers meet by chance amid the hustle and bustle of a London train station. Mon-Sat 8pm; Thur & Sat 3pm.

Tickets £22.43-£109.25. www.delfontmackintosh. co.uk. Wyndham’s Theatre, Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0DA. T: 0844-482 5120. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

dance, comedy and rhythm. Mon & Thur-Sat 8pm; Thur & Sat-Sun 3pm; Sun 6pm. Tickets £26-£67.50. www.stomplondon.co.uk. Ambassadors Theatre, West St, WC2H 9ND. T: 020-7395 5405. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

Thriller Live Non-stop songs celebrate Michael Jackson’s career. Check for times and prices. www.thriller live.com. Lyric, 29 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. T: 0844-482 9674. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Wicked The back story of the witches of Oz. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm.

Tickets £21.75-£175. www.wicked themusical.co.uk. Apollo Victoria, 17 Wilton Rd, SW1V 1LG. T: 0844871 3001. F7. Station: Victoria.

From 9 Jan: Harold Pinter’s landmark play (p. 48). Please check for times. Tickets £10-£95. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk. Harold Pinter Theatre, Panton St, SW1Y 4DN. T: 0844-871 7622. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Comedy About a Bank Robbery Six incompetent crooks try to get hold of a diamond.

Check for times. Tickets £11.25-£73.75. www.the comedyaboutabankrobbery.com. The Criterion Theatre, 218-223 Piccadilly, W1V 9LB. T: 0844-815 6131. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Exorcist

West End premiere of the cult classic horror story. Check for times.

Tickets £15-£75. www.phoenix theatrelondon.co.uk. Phoenix Mel Brooks’ original 1974 Theatre, 110 Charing Cross Rd, film Young Frankenstein WC2H 0JP. T: 0843-316 1082. E7. won many awards, including best Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Young Frankenstein

horror film

Mel Brooks brings his monster musical movie to life. Please check for times and prices. www.garricktheatre.org. Garrick Theatre, 2 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0HH. T: 0844-482 9673.

E7/8. Station: Leicester Square.

PLAYS All’s Well that Ends Well From 11 Jan: William Shakespeare’s classic,

set in a decaying world. Please check for times. £10-£62. www.shakespearesglobe.com. Sam Wanamaker Playhouse, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919. E10. Station: Blackfriars.

Amadeus From 11 Jan: Iconic play about a young

Mozart (p. 44). Please check for times and prices. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk. National Theatre, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.

Faulty Towers: The Dining Experience

Ink To 6 Jan: A young Rupert Murdoch launches The Sun newspaper. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £10-£115. www.dukeofyorkstheatre.co.uk. Duke of York’s Theatre, 104 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4BG. T: 0844-871 7627. E8. Station: Leicester Square.

The Jungle Okot wants to get to the UK in this moving immersive drama about refugees. Please check for times. Tickets £10-£38. www.youngvic.org.

Young Vic, 66 The Cut, SE1 8LZ. T: 020-7922 2922.

F9. Station: Waterloo.

La Bohème To 6 Jan: A contemporary take on Puccini’s classic opera, set in east London. Please check for times and prices. www.atgtickets.com.

Trafalgar Studios, 14 Whitehall, SW1A 2DY. T: 0844871 7632. E7/8. Station: Charing Cross.

Lady Windermere’s Fan

Dining and interactive comedy, based on the cult TV series. Please check for times, dates and prices. www.faultytowers-uk.com. Radisson Blu Edwardian Bloomsbury Street, 9-13 Bloomsbury St, WC1B 3QD. T: 020-7636 5601. E7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

From 12 Jan: Oscar Wilde’s classic comedy of manners. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm.

Tickets £19.50-£55.50. www.vaudeville-theatre. co.uk. Vaudeville Theatre, 404 Strand, WC2R 0NH. T: 0330-333 4814. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

The Ferryman

Long Day’s Journey into the Night

Jez Butterworth’s intense drama is set in 1981 in Northern Ireland. Please check for times. Tickets £15-£89.50. www.delfontmackintosh.co.uk. Gielgud Theatre, Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 6AR. T: 0844-482 5130. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Leicester Square.

From 27 Jan: Eugene O’Neill’s classic drama, set in 1912. Please check for times and prices. www.delfontmackintosh.co.uk. Wyndham’s Theatre, Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0DA. T: 0844482 5120. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Harry Potter and the Cursed Child

The Mousetrap

Father-of-three Harry now works for the Ministry of Magic. Please check for returns. www.harrypottertheplay.com. Palace Theatre, 113 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 5AY. T: 0300-333 4813.

D7. Station: Charing Cross.

A murderer strikes at a party in Agatha Christie’s long-running whodunnit. Please check for times and prices. www.the-mousetrap.co.uk. St Martin’s Theatre, West St, WC2H 9NZ. T: 0844-499 1515.

D7. Station: Leicester Square.

IMAGE COURTESY OF WYNDHAM’S THEATRE

To 7 Jan: A fusion of theatre,

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The Play That Goes Wrong Slapstick comedy. Please check for times. Tickets £22-£67.50. www.theplaythatgoeswrong.com.

Duchess Theatre, 3-5 Catherine St, WC2B 5LA. T: 0844-482 9672. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Romantics Anonymous To 6 Jan: Angélique and Jean-René find love over their chocolates. Check for times.

Tickets £10-£62. www.shakespearesglobe.com.

Shakespeare’s Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919. E10. Station: Blackfriars.

The Twilight Zone To 27 Jan: Stage adaptation of the acclaimed TV series, uniting magic and fantasy.

Please check for times and prices. www.almeida. co.uk. Almeida Theatre, Almeida St, N1 1TA. T: 0207359 4404. Off map. Station: Highbury & Islington.

Witness for the Prosecution Based on Agatha Christie’s courtroom drama, this play is staged in a former courtroom. Please check for times. Tickets £10-£79. www.witnesscounty hall.com. County Hall, Belvedere Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0844-815 7141. F8. Station: Waterloo.

The Woman in Black Play adapted from Susan Hill’s spooky novel about a lawyer who visits a remote house. Please check for times. Tickets £21.50-£60. www.thewomanin black.com. Fortune Theatre, Russell St, WC2B 5HH. T: 0844-871 7626. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

The Woman in White Adapted from Wilkie Collins’ Victorian thriller.

Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed 2.30pm; Sat 3pm. Tickets £24-£48. www.charingcrosstheatre.co.uk. Charing Cross Theatre, The Arches, Villiers St, WC2N 6NL. T: 0844-493 0650. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

The party’s over Harold Pinter’s classic drama, The Birthday Party, comes to the Harold Pinter Theatre (from 9 Jan; p. 46) to mark the play’s 60th anniversary. First performed in London in 1958, it was adapted into a film a decade later. This version is directed

by Ian Rickson and stars Olivier Award-winner Toby Jones, Tony Award-nominee Stephen Mangan and Zoë Wanamaker (right) – who’s best known for her role in the Harry Potter film series. The play focuses on Stanley Webber (Jones), a piano player who lives in an English seaside town in a rundown house owned by Petey and Meg Bowles (Wanamaker), a couple in their sixties. On Stanley’s birthday, two ominous strangers – one of whom is played by Mangan – arrive looking for him, and ruin his party.

CONCERTS: CLASSICAL Barbican 1 Jan: New Year’s Day Gala. 5 Jan: Joanna MacGregor (Byrd, Glass, Messiaen). 13, 14, 21 Jan:

London Symphony Orchestra/Sir Simon Rattle.

30 Jan: Estonian Philharmonic Chamber Choir. www.barbican.org.uk. Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 8891. C10. Station: Barbican.

Royal Festival Hall 17 Jan: London Philharmonic Orchestra: Russian Epics. 20 Jan: Johann Strauss Gala. 24 Jan: London Sinfonietta 50th Anniversary Concert. 25 Jan: ET the Extra-Terrestrial in Concert. www.southbank centre.co.uk. Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 0844-545 8252. E8. Station: Waterloo.

St Martin-in-the-Fields Church 6 & 13 Jan: Vivaldi Four Seasons by Candlelight.

12 Jan: Bach Violin Concertos by Candlelight.

20 Jan: Mozart Requiem by Candlelight. 25 Jan: Allegri Miserere by Candlelight. 30 Jan: Moonlight

Sonata by Candlelight. www.smitf.org. St Martinin-the-Fields Church, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Wigmore Hall 3 Jan: Schumann Quartet (Haydn). 5 & 7 Jan: Sir Andras Schiff (Schumann, Brahms). 12 Jan: Elias String Quartet (Beethoven). 13 Jan: Nash Ensemble (Debussy, Ravel). 14 Jan: Modigliani

Quartet (Haydn, Brahms). www.wigmore-hall. org.uk. 36 Wigmore St, W1U 2BP. T: 020-7935 2141. D6. Station: Bond Street.

CONCERTS: POP, JAZZ & WORLD The Jazz Café 3 Jan: The soundtracks of John ‘ET ’ Williams.

5 Jan: Beat of Brazil. 7 Jan: Sunday Soul. 9 Jan: Essential Ella Fitzgerald. 13 Jan: The Latin Sounds of Detroit. 25 Jan: Jah Wobble. www.thejazzcafe

london.com. 5 Parkway, NW1 7PG. T: 0844-847 2514. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

The O2 Enormous venue for live music. 12 Jan: Paramore.

27-28 Jan: Chris Rock. www.theo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0AX. T: 0844-856 0202. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club Famous jazz club which has played host to many legends. 4-6 Jan: Alice Russell. 11-14 Jan: The Brubecks play Brubeck. 22-24 Jan: Ruby Turner. www.ronniescotts.co.uk. Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club, 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747.

D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

DANCE London Coliseum Home to the English National Ballet. To 6 Jan: The Nutcracker. 9-13 Jan: Song of the Earth/La Sylphide. www.eno.org. 33 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4ES. T: 020-7845 9300. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Royal Opera House Home to the Royal Ballet. To 10 Jan: The Nutcracker.

From 19 Jan: Giselle. Please check for times and prices. www.roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Sadler’s Wells To 27 Jan: Matthew Bourne’s Cinderella. 15-16 Jan: Gandini Juggling (Lilian Baylis Studio). Check for times and prices. www.sadlerswells.com. Sadler’s Wells Theatre, Rosebery Ave, EC1R 4TN. T: 0207863 8000. Off map. Station: Angel.

FESTIVALS Rome Season To 20 Jan: Royal Shakespeare Company’s season, where Angus Jackson directs Shakespeare’s Coriolanus, Julius Caesar, Antony & Cleopatra and Titus Andronicus. Check for times and prices. www.barbican.org.uk. Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 8891. D10. Station: Barbican.

OPERA Royal Opera House To 16 Jan: Rigoletto (Verdi). 8-30 Jan: Salome (R Strauss). From 15 Jan: Tosca (Puccini). Check for details. www.roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

CHILDREN & FAMILIES A Christmas Carol To 20 Jan: A cold-hearted miser is visited by four ghosts. Can he be saved before it’s too late? Please check for times and prices. www.oldvictheatre.com. The Old Vic, The Cut, SE1 8NB. T: 0844-871 7628. F9. Station: Waterloo.

Sleepyhead Dad is exhausted and just wants baby to go to sleep in this show filled with magic, circus and comedy.

Suitable for two- to five-year-olds. Please check for times. Tickets £11-£13. www.littleangeltheatre.com.

Little Angel Theatre, 14 Dagmar Passage, N1 2DN. T: 020-7226 1787. Off map. Station: Angel.

The Very Hungry Caterpillar To 7 Jan: Stage adaptation of Eric Carle’s classic illustrated book, bringing 75 puppets to life. Please check for times. Tickets £15-£27.50. www.hungrycaterpillarshow.com. Ambassadors Theatre, West St, WC2H 9ND. T: 020-7395 5405.

D7. Station: Covent Garden.

THE BIRTHDAY PARTY © IDIL SUKAN

Network Newsreader Howard Beale’s ratings have plummeted, leading to a meltdown that turns him into the biggest thing on TV. Please check for times and prices. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk. National Theatre, South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000.

E8. Station: Waterloo.

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SHOPPING | THE GUIDE

Spectacular sales The capital’s most renowned stores lead the way when it comes to sales season, so whether you’ll be clawing at cut-price clutch bags or simply want to experience living London history, make time to browse these retail landmarks.

A dream destination for lovers of luxe, world-famous Harrods (p. 53) launched its sale on Boxing Day – though some diehard shoppers start to queue on Christmas Day. A troupe of butlers break out the dance moves for queueing bargain-hunters, before handing out complimentary nibbles in the new Roastery and Bake Hall. Opened in late 2017, this is the first stage of a two-year redevelopment of Harrods’ food halls, which also includes the wonderful new tea room.

Take a deep breath before entering Fortnum & Mason’s (p. 53) January sale: it’s sure to be packed. Slashing prices across its sumptuously packaged festive range, this is the perfect opportunity to invest in some deeply British bargains.

It’s branched out from Dublin to Dubai, but a shopping pilgrimage to London isn’t

complete without a January sales spree at the original Harvey Nichols (p. 53) founded in Knightsbridge in 1831. In January 2016, its sales wiped 50 per cent off designer clothes from fashion luminaries including Valentino and Marques’ Almeida; look out for something equally great this year.

Another London original, Selfridges (p. 53) threw open its doors for the first time in 1909.

You’ll now find stores in Birmingham and Manchester too, but Selfridges in Oxford Street is the second-largest shop in the UK (after Harrods). For a glamorous browse through one gleaming room after another –

not to mention a busy food hall and several top-floor restaurants – Selfridges is hard to beat.

Add a touch of historical magic to your sales shopping via Liberty (p. 53). Founded in 1875

by Arthur Lasenby Liberty, the department store was dubbed ‘the chosen resort of the artistic shopper’ by Oscar Wilde; the mockTudor building on Great Marlborough Street (just south of Oxford Circus) is a maze of creaking wooden beauty, which famously appeals to fabric lovers in particular.

Westfield (p. 53) is fast becoming the king of London shopping, with a giant centre in the west, in Shepherd’s Bush, which was joined by the even larger Westfield Stratford City in the east, just in time for the 2012 London Olympics.

As well as big discounts on both high street and designer names – think John Lewis, Jo Malone, Ted Baker and Prada – tourists and business trippers can take advantage of tax-free shopping. Visit the Travelex desks at both Westfield centres for more information.

Happy shopping!

ALL IMAGES © ISTOCK

On your marks, get set, discounts! Depending on how you feel about crowds and competitive queueing, there’s no better time of year for a shopping lover than January, says Neil Simpson

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Tissot O X F O R DHouse of FraserJohn Lewis The Body G R E AT C A S T L E S T R E E T Gianmarco Lorenzi STR Shop EASTCASTLE ST U S EBosideng All Saints ST EET Massimo Clarks H&M Nike Town Browns Dutti Duke Street Zara MARKET PLA Hobbs CE Pronovias Swatch River Island Topshop Butler & Wilson Emporium Jurliqué Pandora Ernest Jones Ted Baker OXFO Boudi RD S United Colors of Benetton GAP Mephisto TREE Tezenis T PRINCES Thomas Sabo ST OXFORD T.M.Lewin Mango River Island Ted Baker CIRCUS Penhaligon’s Russell & Bromley Omega Karen Millen Tru Diamonds M&S BLinks R O OofKLondon Apple Store STREE Dune RAMILLIES PL Lacoste T Pomellato Armani Exchange Longchamp L.K.Bennett HANOVER S All Saints T Fenwick Victoria’s Secret Molton Brown H&M B R O O K Anya Hindmarch ’S MEW Arket SMontblanc 7 For All Mankind D&G GROSVE Z Zegna Boss NOR SQ Emporio Armani Liberty COS Agent Provocateur Pal Zileri Hobbs Mulberry T GROSVE Desigual Canali NOR STR X STumi O F.Pinet EET D D Camper Gap M AD D OX S T Kipling MA Breitling Bally Vivienne The East India Ermenegildo Belstaff MOUNT Coach R O W Westwood Company DropIt G R O S V EIWC Zegna N O RSchaffhausen Juicy Couture HILL Vivienne Wempe Church's T Zilli Hamleys Coach Westwood E E T EE TR Fendi N S Links of London Watch Store Smythson MAN S T R Hackett MOUNT B O U R D OPolo Ralph Lauren ST T Gant Boss Hublot UI E A C Bromley Russell Kate Spade New York P L& Jimmy Choo INGTON PLACE ND TON LaliqueNEW BURL Bose BRU CO BROADWICK ST Levi’s Tory Burch Vivienne Westwood Lucie Reiss Temperley London Miu Miu Campbell Michael Kors Calvin Klein ET T TON ST STRE Burberry NEW BURLING REE Hermès Guess O R DTateossian N ST CLIFF O T & Anthropologie J. Crew COACH S B R U Michael Kors ET HORSE Massimo Dutti Watches of STRE YARD CHANEL Louis Vuitton BEAK Kenzo Paul Smith Switzerland T S D R Dior Brooks Brothers CLIFFO Karl Lagerfeld Boucheron G O L DE N Ice Bar Tommy Hilfiger Patek Philippe Swarovski TON ST Mappin & Webb Georg Jensen G R A FAsprey Adler Bulgari PL Chopard REGENT Harry Winston T.M.Lewin S Q U A R E Penhaligon’s Bregeut Folli Follie Van Cleef & Arpels Burberry NEW CAVE Cartier NDISH ST Zara Graff EET HILL Boodles Mikimoto H&AYCo Gieves & Hawkes STR Mango ER Ralph LaurenG D N S V I G O S T EW HAM YARD VILLAGE N R O David Morris T G B N I Viyella Reiss Salvatore Ferragamo BURL GL Tiffany&Co Brummells AS BURLINGTON ARCADE The English Oak Collection recently SH Austin Reed Superdry CHANEL of London Chatila OU Charles Tyrwhitt launched. Inspired Q U E Eby S N Athe N N Escents DKNY STREET ROYAL ARCADE ST E Jo Malone Max Mara DENMAN Calleija ST Moss Bros.

UGG Australia RE of the forest, the range includes Prada Hollister R E Rolex ET Coach ET Penhaligon’s GAP Leviev Uniqlo a cologne, body wash, body cream Omega Saint Laurent WIGMORE STR Wolford Hunter Daks E E Tcandles. The and, most famously, Gucci La Perla Barbour products come in oak and hazelnut Whittard of Chelsea Marina Rinaldi The Highlands Dolce & Gabbana PICCADILLY Vertu with basil and neroli, and oak and Kiehl’s Alexander McQueen CIRCUS GREEN PARK Barbour Cartier Tod’s (100yards) redcurrant with blackberry and bay.

Dover St International Y L L I De Beers D A Mappin & Webb C Market PIC H E W1B N R I E T T4EZ. Fortnum A PLACE 101 Regent St, Tumi & Mason Osprey London T: 0370-192 5021.

Hawes Cath Kidston Bates Hatters & Curtis www.jomalone.co.uk Alfred EET Links of RLondon Dunhill J E R M Y N S T Emmett Jones Bootmaker Paxton & Whitfield T.M.Lewin Church’s Hackett Longmire Thomas Pink A cross between an art gallery and a BOND STREET

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fashion mall, Dover Street Market stocks clothing, accessories and shoes from designer brands. Browse concessions from Paul Smith, Céline, Dior and Gucci, which feel like walk-in wardrobes.

18-22 Haymarket, SW1Y 4DG. T: 020-7518 0680. www.doverstreetmarket.com

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 72-73.

MAJOR SHOPPING AREAS Carnaby Street Once the domain for 1960s mods and rockers, these days it appeals to the fashionable set, with edgy designers. D7/E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Hatton Garden This hidden historic corner of London is home to the jewellery trade and the centre of the diamond industry. C9/D9. Station: Farringdon.

King’s Road Once famous for upmarket and alternative fashion, this iconic street still attracts a stylish crowd.

Department store Peter Jones is good for homeware and Duke of York Square has shops and a food market. G4. Station: Sloane Square.

Oxford Street Europe’s busiest shopping street has major department stores including Selfridges and John Lewis, plus popular high-street chains. D6/D7.

Station: Oxford Circus/Bond Street/Marble Arch/ Tottenham Court Road.

MAJOR STORES Fortnum & Mason British institution has a great food hall (p. 50).

Mon-Sat 10am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.fortnum andmason.com. 181 Piccadilly, W1A 1ER. T: 0845-300 1707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Hamleys One of the world’s biggest toy shops. Mon-Fri 9am-10pm; Sat 9.30am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.hamleys.com. 188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT. T: 0871-704 1977.

D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

IMAGE COURTESY OF WE BUILT THIS CITY

Harrods Edwardian food and meat halls, fashion plus restaurants (p. 50).

Mon-Fri 10am-9pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.harrods.com.

87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234. F5.

Station: Knightsbridge.

Harvey Nichols Fashion, beauty and homeware (p. 50). Check for times. www.harvey nichols.com. 109-125 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7RJ. T: 020-7235 5250. F5.

Station: Knightsbridge.

Find jewellery and gifts, including Pandora’s much-loved charm bracelets that you can build. www.pandora.net. 257-259 Oxford St, W1C 2DD. T: 020-7407 2007. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Liberty

Tiffany & Co

The epitome of heritage combined with cuttingedge design and the brand’s famous prints (p. 50).

Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.liberty. co.uk. Great Marlborough St, W1B 5AH. T: 0207734 1234. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

This world-renowned jeweller stocks exquisite designer gems (multiple locations around London). www.tiffany.com. The Courtyard, Royal Exchange, EC3V 3LQ. T: 020-7409 2790. D10. Station: Bank.

Selfridges

Grand, spacious setting for the luxury German family business, established in 1878. Large selection of jewellery and fine watches. www.wempe.com.

43-44 New Bond St, W1S 2SA. T: 020-7493 2299.

E6. Station: Bond Street.

Browse some of the finest products in beauty and fashion, including exclusive and limited-edition products (p. 50). Mon-Sat 9.30am-10pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.selfridges.com. 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 0800-123 400. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Burlington Arcade

One of London’s most famous areas for tailoring is in upmarket Mayfair. Find bespoke tailors including Anderson & Sheppard, Gieves & Hawkes, Hardy Amies and Kilgour. E7. Station: Green Park.

In the heart of quirky Covent Garden are seven streets full of independent boutiques, heritage brands and vintage shops. www.sevendials.co.uk.

D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Pandora

Fashion, homeware and electrical goods. Mon-Wed & Fri 9.30am-8pm; Thur 9.30am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.johnlewis.com. 300 Oxford St, W1A 1EX. T: 020-7629 7711. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

LUXURY ARCADES

Savile Row

Seven Dials

John Lewis

This arcade runs from Burlington Gardens to Piccadilly. Each day it opens with a gate ceremony.

It is patrolled by Beadles wearing traditional uniforms and top hats. www.burlington-arcade.co.uk.

W1J 0QJ. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Leadenhall Market A grand Victorian covered market in the heart of the city, bustling with boutiques. www.cityoflondon. gov.uk. Gracechurch St, EC3V 1LR. T: 020-7621 0709.

D11. Station: Monument.

MALLS & FACTORY OUTLETS Bicester Village Find discount designer clothes. Mon-Wed & Fri 9am-9pm; Thur & Sat 9am-10pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www.bicestervillage.com. Bicester, Oxfordshire, OX26 6WD. T: 01869-323 200. Off map. Station: Bicester Village, from London Marylebone. There is also a bus pick-up service from major hotels.

Wempe

KIDS’ STORES LEGO Store LEGO merchandise, including a huge replica of Big Ben made from bricks. 3 Swiss Court, W1D 6AP. T: 020-7839 3480. www.lego.com/en-gb/stores. E7.

Station: Leicester Square.

M&M’s World Sweet treats, including London-inspired chocolate souvenirs. Mon-Sat 10am-midnight; Sun noon-6pm. www.mmsworld.com. 1 Swiss Court, W1D 6AP. T: 020-7025 7171. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

SPECIALIST STORES Buckingham Palace Shop Royal souvenirs, including a jewellery line created

by Alex Monroe. Mon-Sat 9.30am-5pm. www.royal collectionshop.co.uk. 7 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7839 1377. E6. Station: Victoria.

Cath Kidston Home to stylish accessories with London prints. www.cathkidston.com. 178-180 Piccadilly, W1J 9ER. T: 020-7499 9895. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Westfield London This mall has more than 300 shops, from highstreet names to high-end fashion labels (p. 50). www.westfield.com/london. Ariel Way, W12 7GF. T: 020-3371 2300. Map inset. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.

Westfield Stratford City Massive mall with 270 shops as well as a cinema and casino. www.westfield.com/stratfordcity. 2 Stratford Place, E20 1EJ. T: 020-8221 7300. Off map. Station: Stratford.

JEWELLERY & WATCHES Links of London Jewellery and watches with high-quality designs. Great for men and women’s jewellery, plus an engraving service. www.linksoflondon.com. 491 Oxford St, W1A 2LR. T: 020-7491 2371. D5. Station: Visit We Built This City Bond Street. for quirky souvenirs

John Bell & Croyden This wellbeing emporium is over 200 years old and is the pharmacy to the Queen. It offers emergency prescriptions and vaccinations. www.johnbellcroyden.co.uk. Please check for opening times. 50-54 Wigmore St, W1U 2AU. T: 020-7935 5555. D6. Station: Bond Street.

London Glassblowing Pick up a dazzling souvenir and then try it yourself with a glassblowing session. www.londonglass blowing.co.uk. 62-66 Bermondsey St, SE1 3UD. T: 020-7403 2800. F11. Station: London Bridge.

Twinings Trading since 1706, you will find a variety of teas and infusions here. Mon-Fri 9.30am-8pm; Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-6pm. www.twinings.co.uk.

216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9.

Station: Temple.

We Built This City Quirky souvenir shop where classic items are given a twist. Mon-Wed 10am-7pm; Thur-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.webuiltthiscity.co.uk. 56-57 Carnaby St, W1F 9QF. E7. Station: Oxford Circus. www.wheretraveler.com 53

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Ditch the ‘I love London’ OT-shirts N D and C visit We Built This City for a stylish souvenir. London’s top designers, ET Eincluding R T Kristjana S Williams, Cecily S N RUTO RD STREET L I F F Ohave Vessey and Will CClarke, created COACH & ES H O R Snecklaces, items such as artwork, D R YA mugs and cushions. Look out for ORD ST F F I L C eccentric products, from London’s rainwater to a brick vase (above), or GRAFTON ST take part in an in-store craft workshop.

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18 Monmouth St, WC2H 9HB. T: 020-3393 7946. www.murdocklondon.com

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SHOPPING

SHOPPING ESSENTIALS

SHIPPING COMPANIES If you are buying items that you don’t wish to carry home, here is a selection of central London companies that can assist in delivering your goods. Please check the websites below for your most convenient branch.

DHL: Ryman, 227 Kensington High St, W8 6SA. T: 020-7937 1107 Ryman, 64 Old Brompton Rd, SW7 3LQ. T: 020-7581 0858 Homebase, 195 Warwick Rd, W14 8PU. T: 020-7602 5125. www.dhl.co.uk

SIZING SHOES UK

US

CLOTHES Euro

UK

FEMALE SHOPPER COURTESY OF WESTFIELD; SHOP EXTERIOR COURTESY OF SELFRIDGES; CARNABY STREET © ISTOCK

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Mail Boxes etc: 72 Great Titchfield St, W1W 7QW. T: 020-7580 9111

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SW14 7PJ. T: 0208392 6990. www. packsend.co.uk UPS: Food & Wine, 20 Wellington St, WC2E 7DD. T: 0845-687 7877 Great Portland Street News, Great Portland St, W1W 5PS. T: 0845-687 7877 Londis, 77-79 Union St, SE1 1SG. T: 0845-687 7877. www.ups.com

28 Old Brompton Rd, SW7 3SS. T: 020-7581 2825

Post Office: 54-56 Great Portland St, W1W 7NE

95 Wilton Rd, SW1V 1BZ. T: 020-7630 8123. www.mbe.co.uk

111 Baker St, W1U 6SG

Pack & Send: 124 N End Rd, W14 9PP. T: 020-7381 9000

9 Russell Square, WC1B 5EQ

417 Upper Richmond Rd,

32a Grosvenor St, W1K 4PA

All branches: T: 0845-611 2970. www.postoffice. co.uk

OPENING TIMES Opening times for most shops are Mon-Sat 9.30am-6pm; Sun 11am4pm unless stated otherwise.

Some shops stay open until 9pm on Thursdays for late-night shopping.

TAX-FREE SHOPPING Value Added Tax (VAT) is a 20% sales tax added on all goods except food, books, and children’s clothing. Overseas visitors from outside the EU can shop tax-free in the UK, recouping some of the cost of the item. Don’t forget to ask in-store for more information about tax-free shopping. www.wheretraveler.com 55

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DINING | THE GUIDE Clockwise from top left: Vinoteca interior; steak and chips at Vinoteca; Ahi Poké; Koya; Homeslice; udon English breakfast at Koya

The restaurant trade will be laughing all the way to the bank once word gets out about a new arcade in the City, which is home to 10 restaurants, says Sarah Riches A pedestrianised street lined with 10 independent restaurants has opened

by Bank, close to Guildhall Yard and Leadenhall Market. Bloomberg Arcade is a covered arcade that runs down the middle of the new European Bloomberg headquarters.

The arcade’s restaurant curator, Richard Vines, says: ‘When we were selecting restaurants for Bloomberg Arcade, we wanted something creative. We didn’t want another sandwich shop, another coffee bar; we wanted something original, people with new ideas and fresh approaches to food. And we also wanted diversity: cuisines from different parts of the world and different styles of service. Choosing the restaurants was like playing a food version of fantasy football and we’ve got some of the biggest names in the business.’

If you’re looking for a quick bite to eat, pop into the fourth branch of Homeslice for pizza – served by the slice or as 20-inch whoppers – or visit Bleecker Burger for a New York-style patty washed down with a milkshake or root beer. If you’d like to linger, then visit the fourth branch of Caravan, an all-day diner that serves on-trend dishes such as almond milk porridge, baked kohlrabi, and charred cauliflower with coconut yoghurt.

The two-storey Vinoteca, meanwhile, is a smarter option, making it an ideal destination for dinner.

Inspired by wine bars in Spain and Italy, it has a selection of 200 wines, some of which are paired with dishes such as grilled whole mackerel in lemon oil or roast guinea fowl with sweetcorn and smoked bacon broth. If you visit on a Sunday, you can enjoy a Sunday roast while listening to

a selection of jazz, swing, electronic and relaxed tunes by singer and songwriter Lizzie Bradley. The restaurant also serves Neal’s Yard cheeses, charcuterie and bar snacks such as piquillo peppers if you prefer a light bite.

Coming soon are Koya, which will serve Japanese breakfasts, small plates and udon noodles; and Ahi Poké, which will offer bowls of poké – healthy Hawaiian-style rice, raw fish and tropical fruit.

The 10th restaurant is still to be announced, but spring will bring A Wong, a casual option from Andrew Wong, the Michelin-starred chef known for his regional Chinese dishes; Ekte Nordic Kitchen from Soren Jessen – the Danish-born restaurateur behind 1 Lombard Street in the City – and Brigadiers, a new concept from the team behind the popular restaurants Trishna, Gymkhana, Hoppers and Motu Indian Kitchen. Brigadiers will serve classic Indian barbecue dishes in a space inspired by a traditional Indian Army mess – which is about as far from Pret a Manger as you can get.

3 Queen Victoria St, EC2R. www.bloomberg.com

VINOTECA IMAGES COURTESY OF VINOTECA; AHI POKÉ COURTESY OF AHI POKÉ; KOYA COURTESY OF KOYA; HOMESLICE COURTESY OF HOMESLICE; KOYA BREAKFAST © PER-ANDERS JORGENSEN; BLOOMBERG ARCADE © HAYES DAVIDSON

A dining destination

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THREE OF THE VERY BEST INDIAN RESTAUR ANTS This award winning sophisticated Indian Grill offers intense flavours with an innovative twist, in a theatrical open kitchen setting.

Michelin star.

Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week.

Halkin Arcade, Motcomb Street Knightsbridge, London SW1X 8JT T: 020 7823 1166 E: info@amaya.biz Private dining room seats 14

The rich setting, interesting art and romantic candle lighting are secondary details in London’s haven of great Indian contemporary food.

Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week; weekend brunch with live music.

73 St James’s Street, London SW1A 1PH T: 020 7629 6688 E: info@chutneymary.com Two private dining rooms seat 30 and 16

Classical dishes, lovingly prepared and beautifully served in sumptuous surroundings overlooking Regent Street. The oldest Indian restaurant in the world has a Michelin star.

Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week.

Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 1st floor 99 Regent Street, London W1B 4RS T: 020 7734 1401 E: info@veeraswamy.com Private dining room seats 24

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DINING T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (‘Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. B (breakfast), L (lunch), D (dinner). Prices per person for three courses: £: up to £25; ££: £25-£40; £££: £40-80; ££££: £80 +. References (A1; B5 etc.) refer to the map on p. 72-73.

AMERICAS (NORTH & SOUTH) Chiltern Firehouse This hip hotel restaurant in an old fire station serves US-style dishes with a creative twist. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.chilternfirehouse.com. 1 Chiltern St, W1U 7PA. T: 020-7073 7676. D6. Station: Baker Street.

Gaucho Succulent Argentine steaks, plus a wine bar, masterclasses and entertainment. ££££. Daily L & D. www.gauchorestaurants.co.uk. 25 Swallow St, W1B 4QR (and branches). T: 020-7734 4040. E7.

Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Goodman Premium New York steakhouse with quality US and British beef, dry-aged and hand-cut in house, plus dishes including whole roasted poussin. £££.

Mon-Sat L & D. www.goodmanrestaurants.com.

26 Maddox St, W1S 1QH. T: 020-7499 3776. E6.

Station: Oxford Circus.

Hard Rock Cafe London’s original burger joint – more than 40 years old, it has rock memorabilia, funky décor and a fun atmosphere. Enjoy jumbo wings, nachos and hickory-smoked ribs. ££. Daily L & D. www.hardrock.com. 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1LB. T: 020-7514 1700. E8. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

JW Steakhouse

Caxton Grill

Indigo

Superb steaks cooked on the Josper grill, plus seafood dishes, in a stylish venue. ££££. Daily L & D. www.caxtongrill.co.uk. 2 Caxton St, SW1H 0QW. T: 020-7227 7777. F7. Station: St James’s Park.

British gluten and dairy-free dishes. ££-£££.

Daily B & D; Mon-Fri L. www.onealdwych.com.

One Aldwych hotel, WC2B 4BZ. T: 020-7300 1000.

E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Cheneston’s

Magpie

Intimate restaurant serving tasty dishes. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.milestonehotel.com. The Milestone Hotel, 1 Kensington Court, W8 5DL. T: 020-7917 1000. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

Intricate dishes arrive at your table on trolleys, dim-sum style. £££. Tue-Sun L & D. www.magpie-london.com. 10 Heddon St, W1B 4BX. T: 020-7287 8592. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Fera at Claridge’s

Rex Whistler Restaurant

Enjoy creative British dishes made from local and organic ingredients, served in a beautiful Art Deco restaurant. ££££. Daily L & D. www.claridges.co.uk/fera. Claridge’s hotel, Brook St, W1K 4HR. T: 020-7107 8888. E6.

Station: Bond Street.

Great Court Restaurant

Dine on seafood bisque, Sunday roast or roast partridge, with a whimsical century-old mural. ££.

Daily L. www.tate.org.uk. Tate Britain, Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8825. G8. Station: Pimlico.

Searcys St Pancras This ornate dining room in the Eurostar terminal serves all-day British brasserie-style dishes. ££-£££.

Daily B, L & D. www.searcys.co.uk. Upper Concourse, St Pancras station, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

Enjoy lunch or afternoon tea above the huge museum’s iconic Reading Room. ££. Daily L; Fri D. www.britishmuseum.org. British Museum, Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8990.

D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Holborn.

BRITISH (TRADITIONAL)

Holborn Dining Room

Café in the Crypt

This smart brasserie adjoining the stylish Rosewood hotel serves classic British dishes with a twist. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.holborn diningroom.com. 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8633. D8. Station: Holborn.

This vaulted café beneath the church serves homely English dishes, such as fish and chips, and pies. £.

Mon-Sat B, L & D; Sun 11am-6pm. www.smitf.org.

St Martin-in-the-Fields, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1158. D7. Station: Charing Cross.

Steakhouse offering dry-aged prime beef with a variety of sides and toppings. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.jwsteakhouse.co.uk. Grosvenor House Hotel, 86 Park Lane, W1K 7TL. T: 020-7399 8460. E6.

Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Oblix Sophisticated New York-style rotisserie/grill with stunning views from the 32nd floor of The Shard. £££. Daily L & D. www.oblixrestaurant.com.

31 St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-7268 6700. E10.

Station: London Bridge.

Planet Hollywood This huge London branch has burgers, pizzas and cocktails, plus film memorabilia. ££.

Daily L & D (bar to 1am). www.planethollywood london.com. 57-60 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QX. T: 020-7287 1000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Rainforest Cafe Busy diner in a mock rainforest setting with animatronic animals, and a menu with ribs, wraps and pasta. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.the rainforestcafe.co.uk. 20 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7EU. T: 020-7434 3111. E3. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Aqua Shard Contemporary cuisine created from local produce matches the fantastic views at this slick restaurant on The Shard’s 32nd floor. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.aquashard.co.uk. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-3011 1256. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Butlers Restaurant Top English cuisine in an elegant restaurant, famed for its roasts served from a carving trolley. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.chesterfieldmayfair.com. 35 Charles St, W1J 5EB. T: 020-7491 2622. E6. Station: Green Park.

Upstairs, downstairs The team behind Gunpowder and Madame D has opened a third restaurant, Gul & Sepoy, which is also in Spitalfields. Gul makes up half of the menu – named after the King of Punjab’s chef, it features indulgent dishes favoured by North Indian royalty. Sepoy, meanwhile, which means soldier, completes the menu with hearty, rustic seafood dishes from the rural southwest – try the whole tandoori sea bream. Small plates are made for sharing, making this cosy restaurant, which is split over two levels, great for a date.

65 Commercial St, E1 6BD. T: 020-7247 1407. www.gulandsepoy.com. D11.

Station: Liverpool Street

GUL & SEPOY © STEVEN JOYCE

BRITISH (MODERN)

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

ENJOY THE THALI AT The English Grill Restaurant with ornate chandeliers and high ceilings, serving daily roasts. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.rubenshotel.com. The Rubens at the Palace hotel, 39 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PS. T: 020-7834 6600. F6. Station: Victoria.

REAL INDIAN FOOD

Hawksmoor Borough OThis latest outlet of the British steak specialist is in a former hops warehouse in Borough Market.

It serves excellent grass-fed beef and sustainable seafood. ££££. Daily L & D. www.thehawksmoor.com.

16 Winchester Walk, SE1 9AQ. T: 020-7234 9940.

E10. Station: London Bridge.

The Ritz Restaurant Enjoy classic British dishes, including beef Wellington and steamed lobster, in a pretty dining room, with top-notch service. Men should wear a jacket and tie. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.theritz london.com. The Ritz hotel, 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7300 2370. E6/7. Station: Green Park.

Sophie’s Steakhouse & Bar Modern restaurant with roast beef, steaks and terrine boards. ££. Daily L & D. www.sophiessteak house.co.uk. 311-313 Fulham Rd, SW10 9QH (and branch). T: 020-7352 0088. Off map. Station: Gloucester Road.

CHINESE Bright Courtyard Club Excellent Cantonese and Shanghai dishes, including dim sum. £££. Daily L & D. www.bright courtyard.co.uk. 43-45 Baker St, W1U 8EW. T: 020-7486 6998. D6. Station: Baker Street.

BAYSWATER, 75 BISHOPS BRIDGE RD COVENT GARDEN, 48 FLORAL ST SELFRIDGES 4TH FL, 400 OXFORD ST EARLS COURT, 147 EARLS COURT ROAD

CAMDEN, 25 PARKWAY ISLINGTON, 80 UPPER ST SOHO, 9 MARSHALL ST

M ASA LA ZO N E .COM

Chai Wu Located on the fifth floor of Harrods, this contemporary restaurant serves dishes such as shredded Wagyu beef and Chilean sea bass. ££££.

Daily L; Mon-Sat D (until 8pm). www.chaiwu.co.uk.

87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-3819 8888.

F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Hakkasan Michelin-starred restaurant serving fusion and traditional dishes. £££. Daily L & D; Thur-Sat last orders 12.30am. www.hakkasan.com. 8 Hanway Place, W1T 1HF (and Mayfair branch). T: 020-7927 7000. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Kai Mayfair Superior Michelin-starred cuisine in an elegant setting, with dishes such as Nanyang chilli lobster.

Highly recommended. ££££. Daily L & D. www.kai mayfair.co.uk. 65 South Audley St, W1K 2QU. T: 020-7493 8988. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN

Just 5 minutes from Victoria station and opposite the Royal Mews at Buckingham Palace.

Open daily for lunch, dinner, evening cocktails and private events.

1 Lombard Street Enjoy hearty, modern cooking in this brasserie, a former bank, with a huge glass dome. Set menus are ideal for a business lunch. £££. Mon-Fri B, L & D. www.1lombardstreet.com. 1 Lombard St, EC3V 9AA. T: 020-7929 6611. D10. Station: Bank.

Bibendum Newly refurbished and now with Claude Bosi at the helm, this long-established restaurant has fine dining upstairs and an oyster bar on the ground floor. £££. Wed-Sat D; oyster bar daily L, Mon-Sat D. www.bibendum.co.uk. 81 Fulham Rd, SW3 6RD. T: 020-7581 5817. G5. Station: South Kensington.

43 Buckingham Palace Road, London SW1W 0PP 020 7958 7000 | www.bbarlondon.com

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DINING J Sheekey

Céleste

Michelin-starred restaurant on the 28th floor, with great views over the city. £££. MonFri & Sun L; Mon-Sat D. www.galvinatwindows.com.

Hilton on Park Lane, 22 Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 0207208 4021. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Chic and popular seafood spot with an oyster and Champagne bar, plus seasonal game – great for people-watching. ££££. Daily L & D. www.jsheekey.co.uk. 28-35 St Martin’s Court, WC2N 4AL. T: 020-7240 2565. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Michelin-starred cuisine in a smart dining room.

Try sea bass topped with seaweed crust. £££-££££.

Daily B, L & D. www.lanesborough.com. The Lanesborough hotel, Hyde Park Corner, SW1X 7TA. T: 020-7259 5599. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

OXO Tower

Poppie’s

Clos Maggiore

Traditional fish and chip shop with vintage décor. £. Daily L & D. www.poppiesfishandchips.co.uk.

55 Old Compton St, W1D 6HW (and branches).

T: 020-7734 4845. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

Exquisite dining room with a cherry blossom-adorned conservatory. £££. Daily L & D. www.closmaggiore.com. 333 King St, WC2 8JD. T: 020-7379 9696. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

FRENCH

GASTROPUBS

Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester

The Grazing Goat

Galvin at Windows

Elegant restaurant on the Thames with stunning views, serving Modern British dishes including an exellent vegetarian menu. £££. Daily L & D. www.oxo tower.co.uk. OXO Tower Wharf, Barge House St, SE1 9PH. T: 020-7803 3888. E9. Station: Waterloo.

Ting This superb restaurant in The Shard’s Shangri-La hotel serves European dishes with an Asian twist, and has fabulous panoramic views to match. ££££.

Daily B, L & D. www.shangri-la.com/london.

31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8108.

F10. Station: London Bridge.

FISH AND SEAFOOD Fancy Crab Crab connoisseurs are in the right place, and once you’ve sampled this new restaurant’s menu you’ll be dreaming of claws. Sample dishes including crab bisque, crab fettucine – and crab cheesecake! £££. Daily L & D. www.fancycrab.co.uk.

92 Wigmore St, W1U 3RD. T: 020-3096 9484.

D6. Station: Bond Street.

Innovative food from this world-famous Michelinstarred chef. ££££. Tue-Fri L & D; Sat D. Booking essential. www.alainducasse-dorchester.com.

The Dorchester, Park Lane, W1K 1QA. T: 0207629 8866. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Brasserie Joël This smart brasserie serves French classics. £££.

Mon-Fri & Sun L & D; daily D. www.brasseriejoel. co.uk. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7272. F8. Station: Westminster.

Brasserie Zédel Bustling French brasserie serving excellent value prix-fixe menus. £-££. Daily L & D. www.brasserie zedel.com. 20 Sherwood St, W1F 7ED. T: 020-7734 4888. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Try seasonal dishes such as lamb rump with tomato fregola. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.thegrazinggoat. co.uk. 6 New Quebec St, W1H 7RQ. T: 020-7724 7243. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

The Thomas Cubitt Classic dining room above a traditional bar, with top-quality British produce. £££. Daily L & D. www.thethomascubitt.co.uk. 44 Elizabeth St, SW1W 9PA. T: 020-7730 6060. G6. Station: Victoria.

The Wigmore Enjoy unusual dishes and bar snacks from a menu created by Michel Roux Jr, in a refurbished bar with high ceilings and original Art Deco features. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.the-wigmore. co.uk. 15 Langham Place, off Regent St, W1B 3DE. T: 020-7965 0198. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

INDIAN Amaya This Michelin-starred venue serves dishes that are full of exotic twists, cooked in its open grill kitchen. £££. Daily L & D. www.amaya.biz. Halkin Arcade, Motcomb St, SW1X 8JT. T: 020-7823 1166.

F6. Station: Knightsbridge.

Benares Michelin-starred chef Atul Kochhar creates modern Indian cuisine in this refined restaurant – try the softshell crab. £££. Mon-Sat L & D, Sun D. www.benaresrestaurant.com. 12a Berkeley Square House, Berkeley Square, W1J 6BS. T: 020-7629 8886. E6. Station: Green Park.

Chutney Mary Enjoy a gourmet tour of seven Indian regions in this elegant restaurant, which includes the Pukka Bar. £££. Mon-Fri L & D; Sat L & D. www.chutney mary.com. 73 St James’s St, SW1 1PH. T: 020-7629 6688. E7. Station: Green Park.

Gaylord

As the name – and the sketch of a crab that covers one wall – suggest, Fancy Crab mostly serves one ingredient. After a rocky start, the two-storey restaurant close to Bond Street has pulled itself together, and now shellfish fans are flocking to try its red king crab, which is prized for its superior taste, white meat and dramatic colour. Friendly staff bring a king crab to your table to explain each section. The whole dish will set you back £120, but if you’re on a more limited budget, then opt for the ‘merus’, or thigh, served with a selection of sauces or grilled with Hollandaise sauce. That won’t fill you up, so share slivers of seabass sashimi in truffle oil, tuna tartare or a selection of starters.

Mains are much bigger – so sink your claws into the king crab burger (above) or fettuccine.

92 Wigmore St, W1U 3RD. T: 020-3096 9484. www.fancycrab.co.uk. D6. Station: Bond Street

Khan’s of Kensington This relaxed restaurant serves a selection of dishes including Malabar fish curry and Kashmiri lamb korma. ££. Daily L & D. www.khansofkensington. co.uk. 3 Harrington Rd, SW7 3ES. T: 020-7584 4114.

G4. Station: South Kensington.

La Porte des Indes Dine in a former Edwardian ballroom on dishes with French-Creole influences. £££. Daily L & D. www.la portedesindes.com. 32 Bryanston St, W1H 7EG. T: 020-7224 0055. D6. Station: Marble Arch.

FANCY CRAB © JEAN CAZALS

Fit for a king

Iconic Indian restaurant, which is more than 50 years old, serving North Indian dishes including sheekh kebabs and Mughal dishes. ££. Daily L & D. www.gaylordlondon.com. 79-81 Mortimer St, W1W 7SJ. T: 020-7580 3615. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

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Little India This cosy, informal restaurant near the Royal Albert Hall specialises in traditional Bengali cuisine, including prawn curry. ££. Daily L & D. www.little indialondon.com. 32 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 020-7584 3476. F4. Station: Gloucester Road.

RESTAURANT AND BAR Harvesting Red King Crab since 1993

Masala Zone In this chain of newly-refurbished restaurants, enjoy Indian street food, plus the flavour-packed grand thali. ££. Daily L & D. www.masalazone.com.

9 Marshall St, W1F 7ER (and branches). T: 020-7287 9966. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Memories of India Enjoy tandoori grills and spicy seafood from all over India, with specialities including lamb boti kebab. ££. Daily L & D. www.memoriesofindia.com.

18 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 020-7589 6450.

G4. Station: Gloucester Road.

Mint Leaf Contemporary dishes in a stylish restaurant; try the grilled prawns with fenugreek. £££. Mon-Fri L; daily D. www.mintleaflondon.com. Suffolk Place, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HX. T: 020-7930 9020. E7.

Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Tamarind In this smart dining room, enjoy Michelin-starred Mughal and North West Frontier cuisine. £££. Daily L & D. www.tamarind restaurant.com. 20 Queen St, W1J 5PR. T: 020-7629 3561. E6. Station: Green Park.

Veeraswamy The UK’s oldest Indian restaurant is Michelin-starred, with an opulent interior. Try the six-hour cooked lamb shank. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.veeraswamy.com.

Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 99 Regent St, W1B 4RS. T: 020-7734 1401. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Try the king of the crab world from £12 only.

Always wild, never farmed.

THE WORLD’S MOST ELEGANT SHELLFISH

92 Wigmore St, London W1U 3RD Tel: 0203 096 9484 fancycrab.co.uk

INTERNATIONAL Bbar Enjoy top-quality meat and fish at this relaxed restaurant and bar, with 28-day-aged beef and fried hake. ££. Daily L & D. www.bbarlondon.com.

43 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7958 7000. F6. Station: Victoria.

The Cavendish This timeless brasserie serves hearty mains such as lemon veal scallopini and Sunday roasts. ££-£££. Daily L & D. 35 New Cavendish St, W1G 9TR. www.35newcavendish.co.uk. T: 020-7487 3030. C5.

Station: Baker Street.

ITALIAN Cicchetti All-day dining with regional specialities to share at this sophisticated restaurant. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.sancarlocicchetti.co.uk. 30 Wellington St, WC2E 7BD (and Piccadilly branch). T: 020-7494 9435.

E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Mayfair Pizza Co Bright restaurant where you can watch the chefs work in the open-plan kitchen. ££. Daily L & D. www.mayfair pizzaco.com. 4 Lancashire Court, off New Bond St, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7629 2889.

E6. Station: Bond Street.

Rossopomodoro Enjoy Neapolitan food in an informal setting. ££. Daily L & D. www.rossopomodoro.co.uk. John Lewis, 300 Oxford St, W1C 1DX (and branches).

T: 020-7629 7711. D7. Station: Oxford Circus. www.wheretraveler.com 61

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DINING

Dine on stone-baked pizzas or afternoon tea in the famous music venue – checkEnglish for Freeexperience, Friday Music For the quintessential ££. stop Tue-Sun L &afternoon D. www.verdiitalian.com.

Door 12, for an tea with a twist

Mango Tree

Chefs create griddle-cooked dishes at your table for a theatrical experience. Try the Wagyu beef and prawns. £££. Daily L & D. www.benihana.co.uk.

37 Sackville St, W1S 3EH (and branches). T: 0207494 2525. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

This elegant fine dining restaurant near Buckingham Palace offers authentic Thai dishes, such as tom ka and grilled Wagyu beef in spicy sauce. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.mangotree.org.uk. 46 Grosvenor Place, SW1X 7EQ. T: 020-7823 1888. F6. Station: Victoria.

Engawa

Rosa’s Thai Café

This refined Japanese restaurant has tasting menus, plus excellent Kobe beef in different cuts for you to choose from. Other dishes include sashimi, sushi and sukiyaki (hot pot). £££. Daily L & D. www.engawa.uk. 2 Ham Yard, W1D 7DT. T: 020-7287 5724. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Onodera This sleek, subterranean Mayfair restaurant has top-notch sushi and sashimi, plus dishes such as seared duck breast. £££. Daily L & D. www.onoderagroup.com/uk. 15 Bury St, SW1Y 6AL. T: 020-7839 1101. E6. Station: Green Park.

MIDDLE EASTERN, GREEK & TURKISH Momo

FARMACY Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. Farmacy’s4401. vegan tea (above) is also free from F4. Station: South Kensington.

T: 020-7070 dairy, refined sugars, additives and chemicals – ideal for a New Year detox. The menu features natural ingredients you might not be familiar with, such as milk thistle, garcinia (an East Asian fruit) and gotu kola (an Asian leaf), but knowledgeable staff explain them. Highlights include basmati and coconut lemon meringue and pickled fig-pulled jackfruit taco. A mocktail or Ketel One vodka cocktail with lemon, rose, raspberries and edible petals is also included.

74 Westbourne Grove, W2 5SH. T: 0207221 0705. www.farmacylondon.com

JAPANESE & KOREAN

CONRAD LONDON ST JAMES

Decadent candlelit restaurant with Moroccan décor, serving mezze, couscous and tagine dishes. £££. Daily L & D. www.momoresto.com.

25 Heddon St, W1B 4BH. T: 020-7434 4040.

E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Nopi

Thai Pot This popular spot offers a huge range of goodvalue, authentic Thai dishes, including stir-fried beef and massaman curry. £. Mon-Sat L & D. www.thaipot.biz. 1 Bedfordbury, WC2N 4BP. T: 020-7379 4580. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

SPANISH El Pirata Choose from a large range of authentic hot and cold tapas in this Mayfair bar-restaurant, including cured meats and fresh seafood. There are good set menus. ££-£££. Mon-Fri L & D; Sat D. www.elpirata. co.uk. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AG. T: 020-7491 3810. E6.

Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Iberica Victoria

Innovative Middle Eastern-inspired food from Yotam Ottolenghi, with seasonal dishes to share in an informal space. ££-£££. Daily B & L; Mon-Sat D. www.nopi-restaurant.com. 21-22 Warwick St, W1B 5NE. T: 020-7494 9584. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Traditional Spanish dishes such as paella and tortilla are given a modern twist. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.ibericarestaurants.com. 5-6 Zig Zag Building, 68 Victoria St, SW1E 6SQ (and branches).

T: 020-3327 0200. F7. Station: Victoria.

Yosma

Moro

Turkish cuisine in a bright and informal restaurant, with imaginative mezze, plus fish and meat dishes cooked on a Josper grill. £££.

Daily L & D. www.yosma.london. 50 Baker St, W1U 7BT. T: 020-3019 6282. D6. Station: Baker Street.

North Africa meets Spain in this Moorish restaurant; try the wood-roasted chicken with sage labneh. £££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D. www.moro.co.uk.

34-36 Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QE. T: 020-7833 8336. Off map. Station: Farringdon.

RIVERSIDE

VEGETARIAN

Bateaux London

The Gate

Enjoy a cruise while dining on modern British cuisine. Booking essential. £££. Daily L & D cruises; Sun jazz with three-course L. www.bateaux london.com. Embankment Pier, WC2N 6NU. T: 020-7695 1800. E8. Station: Embankment.

This popular veggie restaurant has well-presented dishes such as tofu tikka and couscous fritters. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.thegaterestaurants.com.

22-24 Seymour Place, W1H 7NL (and branches).

T: 020-7724 6656. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

The London Showboat

Mildreds

Dim lights make Emmeline’s Lounge cosy, which is just what you want as you tuck into its new winter-themed tea. Ask the tea sommelier to help you choose a black, green or rare blend to go with savouries including truffled duck on toasted brioche and roast Norfolk turkey and stuffing on walnut and sultana bread.

Following freshly baked scones served with lemon curd, strawberry compote and clotted cream, indulge your sweet tooth even more with a white chocolate and cranberry yule log.

22-28 Broadway, SW1H 0BH. T: 020-3301 8080. www.conradhotels3.hilton.com

Drift down the River Thames while enjoying dinner. Booking essential. ££££. Departs daily Westminster Pier 7.45pm. www.citycruises.com.

Westminster Pier, SW1A 2JR. T: 020-7740 0400.

F8. Station: Westminster.

THE HARI

RS Hispaniola

As the name suggests, The Hari hotel’s new afternoon tea, Napolitea, is served in its Italian restaurant, Il Pampero, and is given an Italian twist. Start with classics such as burrata and avocado, tomato and mozzarella bruschetta, Parma ham and melon, and truffle arancini.

Scones may have lost their place at the tea table, but they’re substituted by Italian pastries such as jam ‘bombolini’, or doughnuts, and ricotta chocolate cannolo tubes – all presented on white tablecloths in a contemporary setting.

20 Chesham Place, SW1X 8HQ. T: 020-3189 4850. www.ilpampero.com

At this informal venue in Carnaby, enjoy spicy dishes from papaya salad to drunken noodles. £. Daily L & D. www.rosasthaicafe.com. 23a Ganton St, W1F 9BW (and branches). T: 020-7287 9617. D7.

Station: Oxford Circus.

Delightful moored restaurant boat on the Thames serving British dishes. Opt for the deck menu for a light bite. £££. Daily L & D. www.hispaniola.co.uk.

Victoria Embankment/Hungerford Bridge, WC2N 5DJ. T: 020-7839 3011. E8. Station: Embankment.

This informal Soho institution has hearty meat-free dishes with global flavours, such as wild mushroom and ale pie and Vietnamese mock duck. ££.

Mon-Sat L & D. www.mildreds.co.uk. 45 Lexington St, W1F 9AN (and branches). T: 020-7494 1634. D7.

Station: Oxford Circus.

Tibits

SOUTH EAST ASIAN

Enjoy dozens of dishes, buffet-style, at this relaxed restaurant-bar. Choose from salads, hot dishes and healthy puddings and pay by plate weight. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.tibits. co.uk. 12-14 Heddon St, off Regent St, W1B 4DA. T: 020-7758 4110. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Chi Kitchen

Woodlands

Pan-Asian cuisine in the department store Debenhams; see the chefs at work in an openplan dining space. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.chi kitchen.co.uk. 334-348 Oxford St, W1C 1JG. T: 020-3841 6888. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Tasty cuisine from India. Enjoy dishes such as Mysore dosas, thalis and cashew pakoras. ££-£££.

Daily L & D. www.woodlandsrestaurant.co.uk.

77 Marylebone Lane, W1U 2PS (and branches).

T: 020-7486 3862. D6. Station: Bond Street.

FARMACY COURTESY OF FARMACY

Time for tea

Verdi – Italian Kitchen

Benihana

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W H E R E

L O N D O N

P R O M O T I O N

BEST OF LONDON DINING Chi Kitchen Chi Kitchen is a contemporary pan-Asian restaurant offering tasty, colourful and exotic dishes that are both MSG-free and halal.

The open-plan restaurant lets guests witness the chefs at work, as they freshly prepare Thai, Chinese, Malaysian, Japanese, Vietnamese and Korean cuisine. With such a wide selection of colourful, tasty and exotic dishes to choose from, Chi Kitchen promises to take diners on a truly unique culinary journey throughout South-East Asia.

Mon-Sat: 7.30am-11pm (last orders 10.15pm) Sun 11.30am-10pm (last orders 9.15pm)

Mango Tree

Ground Floor Debenhams (Henrietta Place entrance), 334-348 Oxford St, W1C 1JG. T: 020-3841 6888. www.chikitchen.co.uk. Station: Oxford Circus

Mango Tree, situated in the heart of Belgravia, offers exquisite Thai cuisine and world-renowned hospitality in a modern and stylish environment. Having appeared on BBC1’s MasterChef, and mentioned in J K Rowling’s novel The Silkworm as a Thai institution in Belgravia, Mango Tree offers innovative yet classic cuisine of the highest calibre.

Using the finest ingredients sourced from the best suppliers, both locally and abroad, the restaurant serves genuine Thai dishes from each of the four main culinary regions: rich and mild dishes from the north, spicy food from the east, mild dishes influenced by the Chinese cooking style from the central region, and hot and spicy food from the south.

46 Grosvernor Place, SW1X 7EQ. T: 020-7823 1888. www.mangotree.org.uk. Station: Victoria/Hyde Park Corner.

Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234. www.mangotree.org.uk. Station: Knightsbridge

Chai Wu Chai Wu is a contemporary Chinese restaurant, located on the Fifth Floor of the iconic department store Harrods, in Knightsbridge South West London. Serving tasty, exotic and colourful dishes reflect the finest of modern Chinese cuisine. The menu consists of small dishes such as Black Truffle Sour Soup and Chilean Sea Bass Dumpling with Gold Leaf, as well as luxury main dishes including Beijing Duck and Wagyu Steak. Chai Wu is a premium venue in luxury setting, perfect for private dining or an important business meeting and ensures an unforgettable dining experience.

Mon–Sat noon–9pm (last order 8:30pm); Sun noon–6pm (last order 5.15pm).

El Pirata

Fifth Floor, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-3819 8888. www.chaiwu.co.uk. Station: Knightsbridge

For more than 20 years, El Pirata has hit the spot as London’s top restaurant for traditional Spanish tapas. Located in the heart of Mayfair, it’s the perfect place for a true taste of the Mediterranean in a chic yet friendly setting. It’s informal, inexpensive and, above all, authentic – the restaurant uses the finest Spanish produce, including jamón Ibérico, to create its classic dishes. Celebrity fans include Brian May and Johnny Depp, and food critics are unanimous in their praise, describing it as a ‘Spanish gem’ (Zagat) with ‘surprisingly good prices’ (Harden’s), and ‘a favourite with Mayfair’s Spanish community and converts to the new Iberian cause’ (Square Meal ).

Mon-Fri noon-11.30pm; Sat 6pm-11.30pm; closed Sun. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AQ. T: 020-7491 3810/020-7409 1315. www.elpirata.co.uk. Station: Hyde Park Corner/Green Park

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NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE This image: Holborn Dining Room’s Gin Bar Below: a cocktail at The Distillery

Clockwise from this image: Mr Fogg’s of Mayfair; By Appointment Only; Cahoots; CircusXO Inset: By Appointment Only

On the juice Detoxing in January needn’t be boring – not when you can sip mouthwatering mocktails made by expert mixologists.

Throw in a live jazz band, swing dancers and elaborate décor from another era, and you’re guaranteed a memorable night out, even if it is booze-free.

Mr Fogg’s of Mayfair isn’t just a bar, it’s an experience. First you have to find it – it might be in the centre of one of London’s wealthiest neighbourhoods, but it’s hidden round the back of some offices, down an alleyway.

A doorman greets you on arrival, and once inside, you’re transported back to 1873 and the world of Phileas Fogg, the fictional character in Jules Verne’s novel Around the World in Eighty Days.

Inspired by Fogg’s ambitious bet that he could circumnavigate the world in less than 80 days, the bar is decorated with crocodile skins, taxidermy, an antique typewriter and colonial safari helmets – there’s even a collapsed hot-air balloon dangling from the ceiling.

Sit at the bar under Penny-farthings and Union Jack bunting, or on a velvet armchair

by the fireplace and try a Teetotal Tipple, made with Seedlip Garden 108, fresh lime juice, cucumber, cloudy apple juice, elderflower cordial, homemade dill syrup and egg whites. If you’re lucky, Mr Fogg or one of his acquaintances might join you (15 Bruton Lane, W1J 6JD).

Cahoots in Soho, meanwhile, also transports you to another era – the Blitz in the 1940s.

Hidden in a disused Tube station below ground in Soho, it has a staircase disguised as an escalator, which leads you down into the bar where you’ll be entertained by swing dancers, a jazz band and singalongs around a piano.

You might be on the wagon, but it’s still worth browsing the menu, which is printed on a faded 1940s newspaper. Try the Apple of My Eye, made with apple juice, elderflower, lime, pear and five-peppercorn mix, or Thowin’ a Paddy, a blend of Seedlip Garden 108, raspberry-infused rice

vinegar, ginger, blood orange and pomelo (13 Kingly Court, W1B 5PG).

As the name suggests, you need to book ahead at By Appointment Only, a dimly lit subterranean drinking den near Liverpool Street. Dating back to 1895, it was originally a Turkish bathhouse, and the Turkish rugs are a nod to its past. Try the Kitten Milk, a booze-free version of the piña colada (Victorian Bath House, Bishopsgate Churchyard, EC2M 3TJ).

Fast-forward to the future at CircusXO in Mayfair, a new bar with dark Blade Runner-style décor and neon lights, from the team behind StreetXO. Its mocktail menu includes the Liquid Madrizzzzz, which is served in a glass as big as your head and is filled with violet shrub, lime, ginger and jasmine perfume. Who said being teetotal was boring? (15 Old Burlington St, W1S 2JR).

MR FOGG’S OF MAYFAIR COURTESY OF MR FOGG’S OF MAYFAIR; BY APPOINTMENT ONLY IMAGES COURTESY OF VICTORIAN BATH HOUSE; CAHOOTS COURTESY OF CAHOOTS; CIRCUSXO COURTESY OF CIRCUSXO

You can still have a glamorous night out this month, even if you sip on non-alcoholic mocktails, says Sarah Riches

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

Most bars open 11am-11pm, most nightclubs open 10pm-3am. The UK’s legal drinking age is 18. ID may be required. T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, Railway and Docklands Light Railway. References (A1 etc.) refer to coordinates on map (p. 72-73)

TRADITIONAL PUBS The Blackfriar This Grade II-listed Art Nouveau pub, which opened 100 years ago, offers traditional cask ales. www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk. 174 Queen Victoria St, EC4V 4EG. T: 020-7236 5474. E9. Station: Blackfriars.

Cittie of Yorke The dark nooks and crannies, rafted roof and chimney-less fire in this Grade II-listed building take you back to 1430. Enjoy a pint in this traditional pub for a real taste of historic London.

22 High Holborn, WC1V 6BN. T: 020-7242 7670.

D9. Station: Chancery Lane.

Waxy O’Connor’s Long-standing Irish bar, comprising four bars over six levels. It screens Ireland’s major sporting events. www.waxyoconnors.co.uk. 14-16 Rupert St, W1D 6DD. T: 020-7287 0255. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese This Grade II-listed pub was built soon after the Great Fire of 1666, and has vaults which are even older than that. Enjoy a pint of English ale and dine from a range of simple pub food. 145 Fleet St, EC4A 2BU. T: 020-7353 6170. D9. Station: Blackfriars.

BARS & CLUBS 68 and Boston Sophisticated venue with separate cocktail and wine bars. Expect wines from unusual destinations, including Uruguay, with all bottles just £20. www.68andboston.com. 5 Greek St, W1D 4DD. T: 020-7287 3713. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

The Back Room Next to Hard Rock, the bar boasts vintage and iconic music items, including a door from the

The Dog and Duck A real-ale pub with regularly changing cask beers as well as pub food and bar snacks. www.nicholsons pubs.co.uk. 18 Bateman St, W1D 3AJ. T: 020-7494 0697. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The Flask This 17th-century pub boasts Byron and Shelley as past patrons and is allegedly haunted. www.the flaskhighgate.com. 77 Highgate West Hill, N6 6BU. T: 020-8348 7346. Off map. Station: Highgate.

The French House Creative, bohemian types love this quirky pub in the heart of Soho. www.frenchhousesoho.com.

49 Dean St, W1D 5BG. T: 020-7437 2477. D7.

Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The George Inn This historic pub was established during the medieval period and still retains its original coaching houses. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ george-inn. 75-77 Borough High St, SE1 1NH. T: 020-7407 2056. E10. Station: London Bridge.

The Glasshouse Stores This is a comforting old Sam Smith’s pub, with wood-panelled walls and etched glass. There are plenty of nooks and crannies to hide away in this busy district. The beers and food are good.

55 Brewer St, W1F 9UJ. T: 020-7287 5278. E7.

Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Guinea Site of an inn since 1423, this friendly venue has great Young’s ales and bar food, including steak pies. www.theguinea.co.uk. 30 Bruton Place, W1J 6NL. T: 020-7409 1728. E6. Station: Bond Street/Oxford Street.

The Magpie & Stump Opposite the Old Bailey, this pub dates back to the 1500s, and once doubled up as a public viewing spot for hangings at Newgate Prison. www.magpieandstump.com. 18 Old Bailey, EC4M 7EP. T: 020-7248 5085. B8. Station: St Paul’s.

The Punchbowl This popular Mayfair pub-restaurant has a variety of ales on offer in the unique, classy surroundings. www.punchbowllondon.com. 41 Farm St, W1J 5RP. T: 0207-493 6841. E6. Station: Green Park.

The Spaniards Inn Follow in the footsteps of past regulars, including Dick Turpin and Charles Dickens, at this pub – one of the oldest in London. Its Sunday roast and pies are popular – booking advisable. www.thespaniards hampstead.co.uk. Spaniards Rd, NW3 7JJ. T: 020-8731 8406. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

DINE DA N C E DA R E

The London Cabaret Club The London Cabaret is set in the exquisite surroundings of The Bloomsbury Ballroom and operates two amazing shows weekly.

On Fridays swing through the decades with The Best of British Pop, enjoy beloved hits, impressive staging, mesmerising dancers and costumes.

Journey from the freedom days of the 60’s and 70’s to London’s punk movement in the 80’s, 90’s Britpop as well as today’s leading anthems. Then enjoy a DJ and dance floor until 3am!

For a more suave Saturday evening London Cabaret Club’s 007-themed special, London Never Dies. Be transported to the glamorous Bond world of romance and espionage with gourmet dining and a stunning cabaret show, including groundbreaking 4D special effects.

For group bookings contact:

020 7242 0002

bookings@thelondoncabaretclub.com use code WHERE at www.thelondoncabaretclub.com to get 25% off all ticket tiers

The London Cabaret Club Victoria House, Bloomsbury Square, London WC1B 4DA

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NIGHTLIFE Apple Studios signed by The Beatles. Enjoy cocktails, pizzas, burgers and a great vibe. www.hardrock.com. 148b Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 020-7514 1700. E6. Station: Green Park.

Booking Office Bar The ground floor of the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel has a 29m-long bar surrounded by cavernous arched ceilings and stone walls dating back to 1873. www.bookingofficebar.com. Euston Rd, NW1 2AR. T: 020-7841 3566. C7. Station: King’s Cross.

BYOC At ‘Bring Your Own Cocktail’, pay £25, bring a spirit of your choice and the mixologist will create cocktails for you. Booking is recommended. www.byoc.co.uk.

9-11 Basement, Camden High St, NW1 7JE (and branches). T: 020-3441 2424. Off map. Station: Mornington Crescent.

City Social

Experimental Cocktail Club In an old Chinatown townhouse, this bar is tucked away but worth the search for its stylish cocktails.

Email booking is recommended. www.experiment alcocktailclublondon.com. 13a Gerrard St, W1D 5PS. T: 020-7434 3559. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Freedom This gay-friendly venue attracts a trendy crowd to its stylish cocktail bar and the nightclub underneath. www.freedombarsoho.com.

60-66 Wardour St, W1F 0TA. T: 020-7734 0071.

D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Gong Located in The Shard, Gong is one of the highest Champagne bars in London and the ideal place for sunset cocktails and late-night drinks. www.the-shard.com. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8000. F10. Station: London Bridge.

Fresh as a daisy Marking its 10th anniversary, the Chelsea institution The Botanist has unveiled a swish new look, complete with an Art Deco bar fit for Jay Gatsby. Cocktails draw inspiration from the venue’s name, with mixologists whipping up creations that showcase the flavours of an English country garden, from beetroot juice to cucumber and blackberries. A particularly delicious creation combines rhubarb vodka with orange marmalade and lemon, topped with a bruléed sweet foam. It also boasts a modern European restaurant serving melt-inthe-mouth sashimi in a yuzu dressing, while the tuna with black beans is an absolute must.

7 Sloane Square, SW1W 8EE. T: 020-7730 0077. www.thebotanistsloanesquare.com.

G5. Station: Sloane Square.

Opium Cocktail Bar

St Pancras Champagne Bar

Tucked away in Chinatown, this is a warren of dimly-lit rooms styled like a ‘20s Shanghai bar.

Sip a lychee martini, with a dim sum menu. www.opiumchinatown.com. Booking recommended. 15 Gerrard St, W1D 6JE. T: 0207734 7276. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Europe’s longest Champagne bar, in the upstairs forecourt of the train station, has a big selection of bubbly. www.searcyschampagnebars.co.uk.

St Pancras International, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

Oriole

Gordon’s Wine Bar London’s oldest wine bar has been uncorking bottles since 1890 in a candlelit stone-arched basement. It also serves delicious cheeseboards.

Go early to secure a table. www.gordonswinebar.com. 47 Villiers St, WC2N 6NE. T: 020-7930 1408. E8.

Station: Embankment.

John Keats wrote his poem Ode to a Nightingale in The Spaniards Inn in Hampstead

Mews Cocktail Bar Deep leather sofas and an 18th-century chandelier set the tone for exquisite wines, fresh fruit cocktails and light dishes. www.mewsofmayfair.com.

10 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388.

E6. Station: Bond Street.

The Nightjar Stylish Prohibition-era bar in a dimly-lit basement with nightly live jazz. Enjoy elaborate cocktails. www.barnightjar.com. 129 City Rd, EC1V 1JB. T: 020-7253 4101. C10. Station: Old Street.

Old Bengal Bar This place is converted from a former warehouse located in a quiet back street, with original brick walls and leather sofas. Enjoy classic cocktails. www.oldbengalbar.com. 16a New St, EC2M 4TR. T: 020-3503 0780. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

Number 17 out of the World’s 50 Best Bars in 2017, this cocktail bar is below Smithfield Market. It stages live jazz and blues most nights, all in beautiful surroundings. www.oriole bar.com. Smithfield Markets, East Poultry Ave, EC1A 9LH. T: 020-3457 8099. D9. Station: Farringdon.

Primo Bar Enjoy cocktails in this laid-back bar, which stages free live music every night. www.primobar.co.uk.

Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7282. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Reverend JW Simpson This cocktail bar is a real slice of ‘shabby chic’ – and is the genuine ex-abode of the good Reverend.

Scruffy sofas and a laid-back vibe are its hallmark. www.revjwsimpson.com. 32 Goodge St, W1T 2QJ. T: 020-3174 1155. E7. Station: Goodge Street.

Scarfes Bar This bar is named after cartoonist Gerald Scarfe, who created the caricatures of iconic British figures that are painted on the walls. Enjoy cocktails and Indian-style bar snacks inspired by famous characters that Scarfe has drawn. www.scarfesbar. com. Rosewood Hotel, 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8611. D8. Station: Holborn.

Six Storeys As the name suggests, this Soho Square townhouse is split over six levels. Each floor is elaborately decorated in a bohemian style, with plush chairs, vintage lampshades and patterned wallpaper.

Creative cocktails are its speciality. www.six storeys.com. 11 Soho Square, W1D 3QE. T: 0203504 7381. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Trader Vic’s This tiki-style basement bar is more than 50 years old. Try a Mai Tai cocktail, surrounded by Polynesian wooden masks. There’s live music on Fri and Sat nights. www.tradervicslondon.com. London Hilton on Park Lane, 22 Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208 4113. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Trader’s Wine Bar Sample a wide range of wines from around the globe in this intimate venue, paired with sharing boards of cured meats. www.traderswine.co.uk.

Ivory House, Central Basin, St Katharine Docks, E1W 1AT. T: 020-7481 3796. Off map. Station: Tower Hill.

The Zetter Townhouse Tony Conigliaro is known for his groundbreaking cocktails in this cocktail lounge, with eccentric decor complete with leather armchairs, velvet cushions and a cosy fireplace. www.thezetter townhouse.com. 49-50 St John’s Square, EC1V 4JJ. T: 020-7324 4545. Off map. Station: Farringdon.

THE BOTANIST COURTESY OF THE BOTANIST

The bar next to Jason Atherton’s restaurant has an Art Deco interior, a Prohibitioninspired cocktail list and amazing views. www.city sociallondon.com. Tower 42, 25 Old Broad St, EC2N 1HQ. T: 020-7877 7703. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

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CASINOS The Casino at the Empire A dedicated poker room and the latest table and electronic games at this spectacular venue, housing a restaurant and several bars. www.the casinolsq. com. 5-6 Leicester Square, WC2H 7NA. T: 020-3733 1315. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Hippodrome Casino Huge venue with gaming on three floors, including roulette and baccarat. There’s a restaurant, plus a venue for live music. www.hippodromecasino.com.

Cranbourn St, off Leicester Square, WC2H 7JH. T: 020-7769 8888. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

The Sportsman Casino Traditional and electronic gaming, including three-card poker and American roulette. There’s also a poker lounge and sports bar, plus dining. www.thesportsmancasino.com. Old Quebec St, W1H 7AF. T: 020-3051 4616. D6. Station: Marble Arch.

LIVE ENTERTAINMENT 606 Club This relaxed’ jazz cellar and restaurant serves great food to blues. Enjoy R ’n’ B and soul played by British-based independent artists on stage. www.606club.co.uk. 90 Lots Rd, SW10 0QD. T: 0207352 5953. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.

The Blues Kitchen This busy music venue stages blues, soul and jazz music most nights, plus a DJ at weekends.

There are more than 80 varieties of bourbon and rye. It also serves American-style food such as buffalo wings, gumbo and cornbread in a relaxed environment. www.theblueskitchen.com.

111 Camden High St, NW1 7JN (and branches).

T: 020-7387 5277. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

Bunga Bunga Part restaurant, part bar with lots of live entertainment, this new Covent Garden venue has all the makings of a theatrical night out. Enjoy Italian cuisine as you watch cabaret acts. www. bungabunga-london.com. 167 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PG. T: 020-7590 3602. D8. Station: Holborn.

The Comedy Store One of the UK’s best stand-up and improvised comedy spots. The Comedy Store Players (Sun) sees likes of Paul Merton and Neil Mullarkey. www.the comedystore.co.uk. 1a Oxendon St, SW1Y 4EE. T: 0844-871 7699. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

London Cabaret Club British-themed cabaret. Best of British Pop fuses acrobatics and dance with hits from the 1960s to the present day. Dinner and VIP tickets available. A DJ takes over until 3am. www.thelondoncabaretclub. com. Victoria House, Bloomsbury Square, WC1B 4DA. T: 020-7242 0002. D8. Station: Holborn.

Ronnie Scott’s Since 1959, this famous jazz bar has nightly acts, plus a family-friendly Sunday Jazz lunch. www.ronniescotts.co.uk. 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Stringfellows Up to 80 ‘Angels’ dance at tables at Peter Stringfellow’s gentlemen’s club. Don’t miss the velvet-adorned Red Rooms. Free entry when dining. www.stringfellows.co.uk. 16-19 Upper St Martin’s Lane, WC2H 9EF. T: 020-7240 5534. E8.

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SPAS & SALONS | THE GUIDE This image: Mandarin Oriental Below: Bhuti

Let’s get physical For some, being on holiday doesn’t mean it’s time to slow down and stop exercising.

A lot of London’s top hotels have noticed this and have enhanced their gyms, so that they are no longer an afterthought.

The Corinthia Hotel’s spa is one of the most luxurious in London. BodySPace at ESPA Life at Corinthia, which recently launched, has been created by Stephen Price, founder of Chelsea wellness consultancy SP&Co, and David Higgins, trainer to Hollywood’s elite. Professionals who have worked with athletes are available to guests (Whitehall Place, SW1A 2BD).

Ever dreamed of running the New York Marathon? This is also the first hotel in London to use Technogym, which uses treadmills that mirror the course of famous marathons. Plus, your workout will be saved and accessible each time you stay at the hotel.

Meanwhile, in Richmond, a leafy suburb of southwest London, there is an eco-wellbeing escape. Bhuti infuses yoga, Pilates, meditation and holistic spa treatments. There are more than 35 classes on offer, ranging from beginner to advanced. When you have finished your

session, visit the café which has a vegan, organic and gluten-free menu. The Asian-inspired smoothies include Shakti Power, made from almond milk, banana, strawberries, peanut butter, lucuma and cinnamon (50 Hill Rise, Richmond, TW10 6UB).

At the Mandarin Oriental in Knightsbridge (p. 69), the new fitness centre has high-tech equipment, from cross trainers to bikes, along

with a twin-lane, 17 metre-long indoor swimming pool. Train like an athlete with Ruben Tabares, who offers bespoke personal training packages. Tabares’ clients include boxers David Haye and Amir Khan. It’s not just athletes – he also works with dancers from the Royal Ballet School. Make sure you turn off your phone – Tabares isn’t a fan of distractions, and wants the best from his clients.

MANDARIN ORIENTAL © GEORGE APOSTOLIDIS; BHUTI © TIMELESSPICTURES.CO.UK

As more state-of-the-art gyms are opening up in London hotels, with celebrity personal trainers and high-tech equipment, there is no better time to break a sweat, says Kohinoor Sahota

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Most spas are open seven days a week, but check for opening hours. References at the end of listings (A1 etc.) refer to coordinates on map p. 72-73.

SPAS Aveda Institute This three-storey salon offers cuts, colour, blow dries and botanical treatments using Aveda’s plant-based products. The Express Beauty Bar has a range of treatments lasting 15 and 30 minutes. www.avedainstitute.co.uk. 174 High Holborn, WC1V 7AA. T: 020-7759 7355. D8. Station: Holborn.

Bamford Haybarn Spa Loved by celebrities, treatments have a holistic approach to wellbeing, and use botanical products. There is also a rooftop pool and secret garden. www.the-berkeley.co.uk.

The Berkeley hotel, Wilton Place, SW1X 7RL. T: 020-7201 1699. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.

Blue Harbour Health Club & Spa This exclusive members-only spa offers day passes for £25. Swim in the 17m pool, use the fitness equipment or visit the Figaro Hair Salon.

There are treatment rooms for disabled visitors. www.blueharbourspa.co.uk. Chelsea Harbour Drive, SW10 0XG. T: 020-7300 5011. Off map.

Station: Imperial Wharf.

Elemis Day Spa This spa specialises in facials that tackle ageing, pigmentation and blemishes. There is a private suite in The Penthouse, so you can share the experience with your guest while sipping a glass of Champagne.

The Speed Spa offers treatments in 30 minutes. www.elemis.com/dayspa. 2 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EX. T: 020-7499 4995. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Jurlique Founded by Dr Jürgen Klein, a biochemist, and his wife Ulrike, a botanist, this spa uses their natural skincare range. Treatments include an anti-stress facial, which eases tension in your face, neck and shoulders. www.jurlique.co.uk. 489 Oxford St, W1C 2AU. T: 0800-040 7685. D8. Station: Bond Street.

Mandara Spa This spa has an Asian touch: the décor includes a bamboo forest, Mondrian paintings and Japanese shoji screens. Try the warm bamboo massage, where bamboo stalks are used on your body. www.mandara spa.com. Park Plaza, 200 Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7300. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Mandarin Oriental A luxury spa inspired by Chinese massage methods. Facilities include a 17m pool and gym. Book a session with trainer Ruben Tabares – sessions can be held in Hyde Park (p. 68). www.mandarinoriental.com. 66 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LA. T: 020-7235 2000. F5.

Station: Knightsbridge.

One Aldwych This spa offers a range of treatments including massages, manicures and waxing. Brands used are Natura Bissé and Oskia. The health club is excellent, while the pool is chlorine-free and has underwater music. www.onealdwych.com.

One Aldwych, WC2B 4BZ. T: 020-7300 0600.

D8. Station: Covent Garden.

The Refinery This men-only spa has treatments ranging from a traditional shave to sports massage.

If you want to master a wet shave, you can book a Principles of Shaving lesson. Also available at Harrods. www.the-refinery.com. 60 Brook St, W1K 5DU. T: 020-7409 2001. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Rocco Forte at Brown’s Hotel An oasis of calm in the West End that boasts a 24-hour gym and luxury treatments including a gold age-defying facial, carat diamond face and body rituals. There are also treatments for two. www.brownshotel.com. Albemarle St, W1S 4BP. T: 020-7518 4009. E7. Station: Green Park.

The Spa at Dolphin Square

APPLYING SCIENCE TO PERSONAL TRAINING Using the power of genetics to design Personal Training sessions on the most personal level possible!

Moroccan-inspired luxury. Signature massages include the Moroccan Majorelle and Arabian Ceremony. Treatments can be combined with a hammam. www.dolphinsquare.co.uk/spa.

Chichester St, SW1V 3LX. T: 020-7798 6767.

Off map. Station: Pimlico.

Spa Illuminata This spa’s menu includes facials, massages and options for men. Anti-ageing treatments include anti-wrinkle injections and skin peels. www.spailluminata.com. 63 South Audley St, W1K 2QS. T: 020-7499 7777. E6. Station: Marble Arch.

Urban Retreat at Harrods This is one of the few places in London that offers paraffin wax baths. Special services include weaves, extensions, wig creation and cutting.

There’s a hammam, too. www.urbanretreat.co.uk.

Fifth floor, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7893 8333. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Ushvani Plush spa with a philosophy that is based on ancient Asian culture and takes a holistic approach to pampering. Treatments include a Malay massage and Balinese massage, which incorporate herbs and spices. www.ushvani.com.

1 Cadogan Gardens, SW3 2RJ. T: 020-7730 2888.

G5. Station: Sloane Square.

SALONS Gentlemen’s Tonic This is a stylish men-only grooming establishment with a barbershop, body and hair treatments and a full range of products. www.gentlemenstonic.com.

31a Bruton Place, W1J 6NN. T: 020-7297 4343. E6.

Station: Bond Street.

Geo F Trumper A traditional barbershop in Mayfair, which offers wet shaves, manicures and hair cuts for an elegant result. www.trumpers.com. 9 Curzon St, W1J 5HQ. T: 020-7499 1850. E6. Station: Green Park.

Hershesons Blow Dry Bar At this trendy hairdresser to the stars, you can ask for your favourite fashion-forward look from a menu and a stylist will create it in 30 minutes. www.hershesons.com. Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 020-7493 1600. E6. Station: Bond Street.

BASED ON RICHMOND HILL, COVERING LONDON ZONES 1-4

WWW.SKPERSONAL .TRAINING

Enquire to see a trainer today, call: 07568 565084

AVENA MASSAGE by qualified female masseuse.

Total relaxation, revitalising massage.

Please call to book an appointment at your hotel, home or our studio on:

07879 697478

Jo Hansford This hair-colour salon, which is home to top stylists, is renowned for its colour correction work.

The salon also has an in-house chef. www.jo hansford.com. 48 South Audley St, W1K 2QB. T: 020-7495 7774. E6. Station: Marble Arch.

Windle & Moodie An award-winning hair salon, which specialises in upfront catwalk looks. The 20-minute Speed Styling service includes updos. www.windleand moodie.com. 41-45 Shorts Gardens, WC2H 9AP. T: 020-7497 2393. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Late appointments available www.wheretraveler.com 69

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ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE TICKET INFORMATION AT YOUR SERVICE Concierges in the capital use Where London for information – these concierges share their top tips

Aaron Woodley

Szymon Romański

Jorge Alvarez

Head concierge at Royal Lancaster London

Concierge at Jumeirah Lowndes Hotel

Deputy head concierge at The Montague on the Gardens

What’s the strangest request you’ve had?

A guest ordered some sheep shears and wanted them shipped to Saudi Arabia. They seemed to think it was very normal.

Why is your hotel special?

Half a million bees are housed in 10 beehives on the second-floor roof. They pollinate Hyde Park’s lime trees, so the honey has a light citrus flavour. It’s used in our breakfasts and desserts.

Any family-friendly ideas?

Visit South Bank for views of the River Thames, SEA LIFE London Aquarium and Coca-Cola London Eye. What should couples do?

Spend some time walking around Hyde Park at sunset.

What do you recommend outside of London?

Canterbury Cathedral, in the quaint Kent city of the same name. It’s about an hour from central London.

Which requests do you get most often?

Tickets for The Lion King or Mamma Mia!, directions to Harrods and Buckingham Palace, events at the Royal Albert Hall and exhibitions at the Victoria and Albert Museum, which is staging Opera: Passion Power and Politics.

Which requests do you get most often?

Tickets for Harry Potter and the Cursed Child and how to get to Platform 9¾ at King’s Cross station.

Why is your hotel so special?

Because you can borrow red, white and blue Belgravia Bikes and discover Belgravia and beyond on two wheels.

What should guests do if they only have one day in London?

Go to Little Venice – you feel like you’ve escaped the hustle and bustle of the city.

What should guests do if they only have a day here?

After a morning run in Hyde Park, stop for a full English breakfast, then go shopping in Liberty on Regent Street.

Have lunch in Gaucho, then watch Dreamgirls.

What do you recommend outside of London?

Beautiful Blenheim Palace in Oxfordshire is the birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill and one of the largest houses in the country. You should also get lost in the Cotswolds.

What makes your hotel special?

We have a Ski Lodge in winter and a Beach Bar in summer – which other hotel has those?

Left to right: SEA LIFE London Aquarium; Liberty department store on Regent Street Above: London Eye

An Oyster card is a pre-paid travel smart card.

It’s a cheap way to pay for single journeys by bus, Tube, tram, DLR, London Overground and most National Rail train services in London.

You can buy a Visitor Oyster card before you leave home for a £5 fee and pre-load it with credit at www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk. The system has nine zones. Zone 1 is in central London.

Visitors can buy Oyster cards and Day Travelcards from stations, Visitor Centres and any Oyster Ticket Shop. UK visitors can also pay for their travel with a UK-issued contactless payment card. See www.tfl.gov.uk/visitinglondon.

An Oyster card also gives you a 25 per cent discount on London’s cable car, the Emirates Air Line, and a 10 per cent discount on single journeys on most MBNA Thames Clippers river buses.

For more info, visit www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk.

GETTING AROUND For 24-hour travel information, visit the Transport for London (TfL) website. www.tfl.gov.uk/ visitinglondon or call T: 0343-222 1234.

London Underground (The Tube) www.tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground map (opposite). Services run Mon-Sat 5am-12.30am and Sun 7.30am-11.30pm on most routes. The night Tube service runs on Fri-Sat on the Victoria, Jubilee, Central, Northern (via Embankment) and Piccadilly line. Fares vary; a Zone 1 adult fare costs £4.90 (£2.40 with an Oyster card).

London Buses London buses run 5am-12.30am. Night buses (midnight-4.30am) operate on main routes (several services are 24-hour). You can’t pay for a bus fare with cash, so use a Visitor Oyster card, Oyster card, Travelcard or a UK-issued contactless payment card. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/ buses. A single fare is £1.50 with an Oyster card or a UK-issued contactless payment card.

London Overground www.tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground Map opposite. Trains run Mon-Sat 5am-midnight; Sun 7am-11.30pm on most routes.

Docklands Light Railway Trains run approximately every three-anda-half minutes to 10 minutes. Mon-Sat 5.30am12.30am; Sun 7am-11pm. T: 020-7363 9700.

Trains Paddington serves the West Country, Wales and the South Midlands.

Liverpool Street and Fenchurch Street serve East Anglia and Essex.

Euston King’s Cross St Pancras Marylebone and St Pancras King’s Cross International (connects to St Pancras) serve north and central Britain, Charing Cross and southeast England.

London Bridge Waterloo Victoria serve southern England. and For times and tickets, visit www.nationalrail. co.uk or call T: 0845-748 4950.

St Pancras International.

Eurostar uses Visit www.eurostar.com for more information, times and ticket prices. Call T: 0344-822 4777 (from outside the UK, T: 01233-617 575).

SEA LIFE LONDON AQUARIUM © GARRY SAMUELS; LIBERTY COURTESY OF LIBERTY; AARON WOODLEY COURTESY OF ROYAL LANCASTER LONDON; SZYMON ROMAŃSKI COURTESY OF JUMEIRAH LOWNDES HOTEL; JORGE ALVAREZ COURTESY OF THE MONTAGUE ON THE GARDENS; LONDON EYE IMAGE COURTESY OF LONDON EYE

Oyster cards & Travelcards

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ESSENTIALS

Willesden Green

Stonebridge Park Harlesden

Brondesbury Park

Willesden Junction

Kilburn Park Maida Vale Warwick Avenue Royal Oak Westbourne Park

Paddington

Ladbroke Grove Latimer Road

North Acton

Shepherd’s Bush

White City

Shepherd’s Bush Market

Stamford Brook

Ravenscourt Park

West Kensington

High Street Kensington

Green Park

Gloucester Road

Earl’s Court

Goodge Street

Victoria

Hoxton Old Street

Charing Cross

Aldgate East

Monument

Tower Gateway

London Bridge

Embankment

Bermondsey

Canada Water

Parsons Green

Surrey Quays

River Thames

Step-free access from street to platform

Bakerloo

Vauxhall

East Putney

Canning Town

District

Hammersmith & City

Custom House for ExCeL

Blackwall East India

Emirates Royal Docks

Heron Quays

North Greenwich

Elephant & Castle

Jubilee

Metropolitan

Prince Regent Royal Albert

West Silvertown Emirates Greenwich Peninsula

Pontoon Dock

New Cross Gate

Northern

Victoria

Cyprus Gallions Reach Beckton

King George V 17/E/3249/P

Greenwich New Cross

Brockley

Piccadilly

Beckton Park

London City Airport

Mudchute

Cutty Sark for Maritime Greenwich Queens Road Peckham

Circle

Royal Victoria

Island Gardens

Borough

Southfields

Central

Star Lane

Langdon Park

Canary Wharf

Lambeth North

Putney Bridge

East Ham Upton Park

Crossharbour

Southwark

Imperial Wharf

Upney Barking

West Ham

Bow BromleyRoad by-Bow Devons Road

South Quay Waterloo Pimlico

Fulham Broadway

Elm Park Dagenham East Dagenham Heathway

Stratford

West India Quay

Wapping

River Thames

Rotherhithe

Woodgrange Park

Forest Gate Maryland

Abbey Road

Westferry Poplar

Limehouse

Tower Hill

Fenchurch Street

Blackfriars

Pudding Mill Lane

All Saints Shadwell

West Brompton

Step-free access from street to train

Stepney Green

Whitechapel

Aldgate

Cannon Street

Temple

Westminster

Liverpool Street

Bank

Hornchurch

Plaistow Bow Church

St. Paul’s

Ilford Manor Park

Becontree

Bethnal Green Bethnal Mile Green End

Moorgate Chancery Lane

Upminster Bridge

Seven Kings

Wanstead Park

Stratford High Street

Cambridge Heath

Shoreditch High Street

Barbican

Covent Garden

St. James’s Park

Homerton London Fields

Haggerston

Farringdon

Leicester Mansion Square House

Piccadilly Circus

Sloane Square

South Kensington

Holborn

Tottenham Court Road

Knightsbridge

Barons Court

Hammersmith

Regent’s Park

Marble Arch

Dalston Junction

Angel Euston Square Russell Square

Queensway

Caledonian Road & Barnsbury

King’s Cross St. Pancras

Bayswater Oxford Circus

Stoke Newington Leytonstone High Road St. James Rectory Street Road Dalston Stratford Leyton Kingsland Clapton International Hackney Canonbury Hackney Downs Hackney Central Wick

Highbury & Islington

Euston

Warren Street

Edgware Road

Hyde Park Corner

Kensington (Olympia)

Goldhawk Road

Mornington Crescent

Great Baker Portland Street Street

Notting Lancaster Bond Gate Street Hill Gate

Holland Park

Wood Lane

Camden Road

Chalk Farm Camden Town

Finchley Road Swiss Cottage St. John’s Wood

Edgware Road Marylebone

Kentish Holloway Road Town Caledonian Road

Kentish Town West Belsize Park

West Hampstead

Kensal Rise Brondesbury Kensal Green South Queen’s Park Kilburn High Road Hampstead

East Acton

Finchley Road & Frognal

Kilburn

Deptford Bridge Elverson Road

Waterloo & City

DLR

Services or access at these stations are subject to variation.

Please search ‘TfL stations’ for full details.

Kensington (Olympia) open weekends and on some public holidays

Emirates Air Line cable car

Overground

TfL Rail

*Service and network charges may apply. See tfl.gov.uk/terms for details.

Transport for London

Reg. user No. 17/E/3249/P

Version D 7.2017

Accessible London

Emirates Air Line cable car

Get information for deaf and disabled travellers, including step-free journeys on the Tube, bus and river service at www.visitlondon.com/ access and www.openbritain.net.

London’s only cable car runs across the River Thames between Greenwich Peninsula (The O2) and the Royal Docks (ExCeL London). You can board from either the North Greenwich or Royal Victoria sides of the river (return flights are available). You can buy a combined ticket with MBNA Thames Clippers and London Transport Museum. www.tfl.gov.uk/emiratesairline.

Taxis You can hail a black cab (taxi) in the street. Fares increase after 8pm. You cannot hail private-hire or minicabs, which you must book. We strongly advise against you using any vehicle that approaches you in the street, except for licensed black cabs. www.tfl.gov.uk.

Car hire Make sure your driving licence is valid for the UK and see ‘Congestion Charge’ below. 4x4 Vehicle Hire: T: 01245-410535. www.4x4vehiclehire.co.uk.

Hertz: T: 0870-844 8844. www.hertz.co.uk. Kendall Cars Ltd: T: 020-8542 0403. www.kendallcars.com.

Enterprise Rent-A-Car: T: 0800-800 227. www.enterprise.co.uk.

Congestion Charge UNDERGROUND SIGN © ISTOCK; MAP COURTESY OF TFL

Improvement works may affect your journey, please check before you travel

There is a congestion charge to drive into central London, Mon-Fri 7am-6pm. Payable in advance or on the day of travel (£11.50), or the day after (£14).

UK: T: 034-3222 2222. International: T: +44 20-7649 9122. www.cclondon.com.

River services www.tfl.gov.uk/river MBNA Thames Clippers: www.mbnathames clippers.com. MBNA Thames Clippers River Bus serves 22 piers, with departures every 20 minutes.

Adult prices start from £4.40. River Roamer ticket (unlimited hop on/hop off all day from 9am). Adult £19; Child (5-15) £9.50; Family (2 adults, up to 3 children) just £38. Kids under 5 travel free.

Discounts available on MBNA Thames Clippers with a TfL Travelcard, Oyster, or via the app or online.

Correct at time of going to print

On foot It’s often quicker to get around London by walking. Look out for blue and yellow Legible London street maps. www.tfl.gov.uk/ legiblelondon.

Santander Cycles There are 11,500 bikes for hire from 750 docking stations throughout central London. From £2 for 30 minutes; the first 30 minutes are free. There’s no need to book, but you need a debit or credit card to hire a bike. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/ santandercycles or call T: 0343-222 6666.

24-hour Tube lines

Coaches

Run Fridays & Saturdays on the following lines. More are due to open soon.

London’s main coach services use Victoria Coach Station, a central hub which offers travel to destinations around the UK and some parts of Europe, such as France and The Netherlands.

SW1W 9TP. T: 0843-222 1234. www.tfl.gov.uk/ coaches Victoria. Map D4.

DELIVERY Mail Boxes Etc. Worldwide parcel delivery, courier and postal services. There are 1,600 stores worldwide and more than 150 stores in the UK and Ireland.

Mail Boxes are also trained certified packers.

T: 01608-649230. www.mbe.co.uk/london.

• Jubilee Line: Across the entire line.

• Victoria Line: Across the entire line.

• Northern Line: Between Morden and Camden Town and between Camden Town to High Barnet/Edgware. Night Tube will not stop at Charing Cross.

• Piccadilly Line: Between Cockfosters and Heathrow Terminal 5.

• Central Line: Between White City and Leytonstone; between Ealing Broadway and White City; and between Leytonstone and Loughton/Hainault. www.wheretraveler.com 71

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WHERE NOW | KIERON VANSTONE

KIERON VANSTONE DIRECTOR OF THE VAULTS The Vaults are located near the famous Leake Street graffiti walls.

The impressive space, under Waterloo Station, hosts the Vault Festival this month with experimental shows, immersive theatre and art exhibitions What is your favourite museum?

Do you have a favourite café?

The Imperial War Museum on Lambeth Road.

It covers conflicts from World War I and II.

Fuckoffee on Bermondsey Street – it’s a quirky coffee shop.

What are your favourite shops?

Where is your favourite place to have a drink?

Deptford Market, every time. There are so many things that I love at Deptford Market. One of my favourite items I ever bought was from there and it was a flight case.

I actually own and live above a pub, so I would have to say Vaulty Towers on Lower Marsh.

I love having a drink with our staff – they’re the best.

Which buildings do you like?

The Watch House on Bermondsey Street – the small white building is an espresso bar.

Which parks do you love?

Richmond Park – it’s one of the Royal Parks and it has 630 red and fallow deer roaming.

Is there a place in London that holds a special memory for you?

The tiny island junction at London Bridge.

I once kissed someone there at midnight in the middle of the traffic.

How do you prefer to travel around the city?

Boris Bikes for me!

Where do you like to eat out?

I love having breakfast and lunch on Maltby Street.

I enjoy eating at Pizarro on Bermondsey Street, or George’s Fish Bar on Portobello Road.

What would be your perfect evening’s entertainment?

I love going to the BFI IMAX or an Everyman Cinema. Secret Cinema, which specialises in immersive cinema experiences, is always a winner, too.

Do you have a top hotel?

As long as there’s a bed, I’m not fussy.

WL JAN MY PERFECT DAY.indd 74

Tell us about the Vault Festival, which starts this month.

After five years, this festival is now a part of the theatre calendar and London cannot do without it. The festival supports thousands of artists and audiences every year. It is vital to ensuring that theatre companies can make new work, and generate a bit of money while doing it.

What makes London stand out from the rest of the world?

London is unrivalled in its constant desire to outperform itself.

The city attracts new theatre makers, event organisers, artists and creators who are striving to make something new, something excellent and something unparalleled.

Vault Festival, 24 Jan-4 Mar. The Vaults, Launcelot St, SE1 7AD. T: 020-7401 9603. www.vaultfestival.com

Clockwise from top left: The Vaults; Kieron Vanstone; Imperial War Museum; BFI London IMAX; Richmond Park; a performer at the Vault Festival; deer in Richmond Park

THE VAULTS © ALICE PEPERELL; KIERON VANSTONE COURTESY OF THE VAULTS; IMPERIAL WAR MUSEUM © ISTOCK; BFI IMAX COURTESY OF BFI IMAX; RICHMOND PARK AND DEER © MAX A RUSH; FESTIVAL PERFORMER © RAH PETHERBRIDGE PHOTOGRAPHY

My Perfect Day

07/12/2017 14:12

K PA R EY BL EM W

THE WEMBLEY

STADIUM

TOUR

GO BEHIND THE SCENES OF THE UK’S LARGEST SPORTING AND MUSIC VENUE

wembleystadium.com/tours +44 (0)800 169 9933

Special group rates available TOURS DEPART DAILY: 10:00 – 15:00

PRINTED TRANSLATION GUIDES AVAILABLE IN 10 LANGUAGES

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