GUIDE TO LONDON ®
JUNE 2018
WWW.WHERETRAVELER.COM
GETTING TO KNOW YOU Ken Watanabe on starring in The King and I
STAIRWAY TO HEAVEN
Westminster Abbey opens a new gallery
PLUS
WHERE TO SPOT THE ROYAL FAMILY TONY CHRISTIE’S GUIDE TO LONDON FRIDA KAHLO’S SELF-PORTRAITS
POP
ON
POP
THEA IS GR TRE EAT Inclu
guide des a fre e t music o plays an als ac d the U ross K
Michael Jackson lights up the capital in a new art exhibition
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SHOPPING
DINING
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Contents See more of London at www.wheretraveler.com/london
June
RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE Where London has direct access to the head concierges and their teams across London’s four and five-star hotels, and is considered to be the ‘concierge’s bible’.
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48
GUIDE TO LONDON ®
JUNE 2018
WWW.WHERETRAVELER.COM
GETTING TO KNOW YOU Ken Watanabe on starring in The King and I
STAIRWAY TO HEAVEN
Westminster Abbey opens a new gallery
PLUS
WHERE TO SPOT THE ROYAL FAMILY TONY CHRISTIE’S GUIDE TO LONDON FRIDA KAHLO’S SELF-PORTRAITS
POP
N ON O
POP
THEATR IS GRE E AT
Includ guide es a free to music plays and als across the UK
Michael Jackson lights up the capital in a new art exhibition
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SHOPPING
DINING
MAPS 14/05/2018 15:42
ON THE COVER
An Illuminating Path, 1998, by David LaChapelle). Copyright courtesy of David LaChapelle
The Guide 22 SIGHTSEEING See spaces and exhibits revealed for the first time at the new Diamond Jubilee Galleries in Westminster Abbey.
THE KING AND I © PAUL KOLNIK; FRIDA KAHLO © NICKOLAS MURAY PHOTO ARCHIVES; TASTE OF LONDON © DANNY NORTH; STUDIO 88 COURTESY OF STUDIO 88
40 MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Get an insight into the life of the late, great Mexican artist Frida Kahlo at the Victoria and Albert Museum’s new exhibition, which showcases many of her personal items. 48 ENTERTAINMENT Step back in time to 19th-century Siam with a new production of the stage musical, The King and I, fresh from Broadway. 58 SHOPPING Head to the mega-mall Westfield London after its recent expansion – it is now Europe’s largest shopping centre.
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Best of the month 6 WHERE NOW
14 ROYAL LONDON
We take a look at this month’s best events, including the RA Summer Exhibition, Taste of London, Robert Smith’s Meltdown festival, West End Live and Frida Escobedo’s new Serpentine Pavilion.
See spectacular displays of pomp and pageantry at major ceremonial events, including Trooping the Colour and Beating Retreat.
10 THE KING OF POP
Take your pick from royal-inspired gifts, including the official new baby tankard and hampers that are fit for a queen.
To mark this month’s opening of the Michael Jackson exhibition at the National Portrait Gallery, we pick out the connections between the King of Pop and London, including his statue floating down the River Thames, and find out why he visited the Houses of Parliament.
PLAN
2018-2019
PLAN DE
LONDRES
18 FROM LONDON WITH LOVE
82 MY PERFECT DAY Tony Christie, the singer of (Is This the Way to) Amarillo, tells us his favourite London spots.
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In this city, we also produce IN London – a portfolio of luxury magazines in Arabic, Chinese and English – and London Planner, the official monthly guide to the capital from VisitBritain and the Mayor’s promotional company, London & Partners.
62 DINING Taste the best of British produce at Petersham Nurseries’ two new restaurants in Covent Garden. 72 NIGHTLIFE Enjoy a night out at the new live music venue Studio 88 in Leicester Square, where you can ask the bands to play your favourite song. 76 WELLBEING Relax with a traditional Chinese treatment in the newly renovated Mandarin Oriental spa. 78 ESSENTIALS London concierges share their travel tips on how to make the most of your trip. 80 MAP A useful map of central London.
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Vol. No. 44 Issue No. 6 ISSN 0951 323X
4 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U N E 2018
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WELCOME
EXQUISITE TERRIBLENESS IN THE MANGROVE © TODD GRAY, COURTESY OF NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY
Will you be there? When I heard that there was going to be a Michael Jackson exhibition at the National Portrait Gallery, the super fan inside me could not contain her excitement. Ever since I was a child, my obsession with the King of Pop had been so great that I didn’t just have posters on my wall – I practiced dance routines, collected magazine cuttings and even saw him at events, too. Writing about Michael Jackson: On the Wall has meant that I can use my obsessive knowledge – look Dad, it’s finally useful! – and write about the star’s visits to London (p. 10). Did you know Jackson once sang for Princess Diana at Wembley Stadium, and she requested Dirty Diana? This is certainly the month for music. If you love live gigs, read about the wave of new music venues, including Studio 88 (p. 72). The bands, many of whom are made up of professional West End performers, are impressive as they take requests, old songs and new, from the audience. I also had the chance to hear Ken Watanabe (star of The Last Samurai) talk about appearing in The King and I. He revealed how excited he was about his West End debut (p. 48). If you have post-royal wedding blues, don’t worry! There are still many ways you can spot members of the capital’s most famous family (p. 14). Whatever you choose to do, don’t forget to tell us about it via our social media. Have a lovely summer holiday!
KOHINOOR SAHOTA Group Editor Where London
This image: Exquisite Terribleness in the Mangrove by Todd Gray
Twitter: @WhereLondon Facebook: Where London Instagram: wherelondon
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®
THE ROLLING STONES TUESDAY 19 JUNE
From rockers The Rolling Stones to foodie festival Taste of London and Katy Perry at The O2, there’s something for everyone in the capital this June
This month, rock legends The Rolling Stones play at the home of England rugby, Twickenham Stadium. This is the finale of their Stones – No Filter European tour. Mick Jagger, Keith Richards, Charlie Watts and Ronnie Wood last played in the UK in 2013, at Glastonbury Festival and in Hyde Park. Watts says: ‘The Stones’ audience is the glue that keeps us together. The best and most satisfying moment is when you are reaching the end of the show and they’re all going nuts.’ Wood adds: ‘When I look out at the sea of people when we play, all I can see is smiles. It’s heart-warming and I’m glad we make people happy.’ The set list is likely to include all the favourites, including Satisfaction, Paint It Black and Brown Sugar, as well as a few unexpected tracks. www.rollingstones.com
EID FESTIVAL SATURDAY 23 JUNE
The end of Ramadan, the Islamic holy month of fasting, is in sight and marked by the festival of Eid beginning on 14 June. A week later, London’s main hub for celebrations, Trafalgar Square, is the venue for a free afternoon festival on Saturday 23 June. A stage, built between the square’s famous lions, welcomes a series of musical and dance acts, while many of the stalls around the centre offer fun activities for children. Don’t miss the chance to shop or sample the Global Food Market’s range of delicious flavours from across the Islamic world. London Mayor Sadiq Khan, who became Britain’s first Muslim cabinet minister when he was elected in 2009, is likely to attend, so you’ll be in good company. www.london.gov.uk/eid 6 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U N E 2018
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TASTE OF LONDON WEDNESDAY 13– SUNDAY 17 JUNE
Taste of London returns to Regent’s Park, giving you a chance to browse gourmet produce, watch chefs cook in a fire pit and sample fine dining and wine curated by international chefs in The Taste Residence. Forty restaurants are taking part, including Japanese gem ROKA, Sri Lankan eatery Hoppers, Michelin-starred Club Gascon and West African restaurant Ikoyi. www.london.tastefestivals.com
RA SUMMER EXHIBITION FROM TUESDAY 12 JUNE
This year, the Royal Academy of Arts celebrates its 250th anniversary, so its annual Summer Exhibition is even more momentous. The Piccadilly arts institution selected one of its hottest Academicians, the flamboyant English artist Grayson Perry (right), to head up the committee of 10 fellow Royal Academicians, including Chris Orr, Emma Stibbon and Cornelia Parker. They selected close to 1,200 artworks for display, from entries submitted by a combination of students, amateurs and established artists. Perry’s theme is ‘Art Made Now’, explaining that he wants to ‘champion the democracy of the exhibition and show off the diversity of art being made in this moment’. This includes a ‘Room of Fun’, which we can’t wait to enter. www.royalacademy.org.uk
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WHERE NOW | CALENDAR
KATY PERRY AT THE O2 THURSDAY 14–FRIDAY 15 JUNE
Pop star Katy Perry takes to the stage of The O2 as part of her European tour. Expect to see brightly coloured sets, fireworks and fun costumes, with the audience just as dressed up, while enjoying songs from her latest album, Witness. www.theo2.co.uk
LONDON FESTIVAL OF ARCHITECTURE THROUGHOUT JUNE
This annual festival, continuing for the whole month, brings with it a range of public events across the capital. This year’s theme is ‘identity’, and the festival celebrates the buildings and projects that define London. The four main areas of activity stretch from Battersea Nine Elms in southwest London, to the Royal Docks in the east. Right in the middle, the City of London and London Bridge areas both take part in the festival for the first time. London’s skyline is never without cranes, nor the evidence of intense construction work, so you can be sure that this festival will be incredibly dynamic. www.londonfestivalofarchitecture.org
BILL MURRAY & JAN VOGLER MONDAY 4 JUNE
Groundhog Day, Ghostbusters and Lost in Translation wouldn’t have been the same films had it not been for Bill Murray’s quirky sense of humour. If you’re a fan, then head to the Southbank Centre where, for one night only, he showcases his debut album, New Worlds. Murray performs songs from George and Ira Gershwin, Bernstein and Van Morrison, accompanied by a classical chamber trio: Jan Vogler (cello, left with Murray), Mira Wang (violin) and Vanessa Perez (piano). www.southbankcentre.co.uk
ones can attend the last day of The 1 Little Very Circusy Caterpillar in Jubilee Gardens the street food stalls at the 2 Browse Southbank Centre Food Market the last chance to catch a film in the 3 It’s Artists & Activists series at the Barbican through St James’s Park and look 4 Stroll out for pelicans around the lake Aftermath: Art in the Wake of World 5 Attend War One as it opens at Tate Britain to Lionel Richie as he performs 6 Listen at the Hampton Court Palace Festival the last day of Beating Retreat, a 7 Watch military pageant on Horse Guards Parade Paloma Faith live as she sings at 8 Catch Hampton Court Palace Festival tonight little-known gardens during the 9 Explore annual Open Garden Squares festival to Grammy nominee Demi Lovato 10 Listen at The O2, as part of her European tour Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Galleries 11 The open to the public today for the first time pop star Camila Cabello perform 12 Catch at the O2 Academy in Brixton dishes from London’s top restaurants 13 Try at Taste of London in Regent’s Park the FIFA World Cup opening 14 Watch ceremony at Trapeze in Shoreditch Don’t miss the last day of Peter Pan at the 15 beautiful Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre Attend the opening of the Frida Kahlo: 16 Making Her Self Up exhibition at the V&A along to musical numbers on the last 17 Sing day of West End Live in Trafalgar Square or stroll around Richmond Park 18 Cycle and catch a glimpse of its wild deer your bets and look out for the Queen 19 Place on the opening day of Royal Ascot a leap of faith or climb Up at The 20 Take O2 at sunset for views of Canary Wharf a trip to experience The View from 21 Book The Shard on the longest day of the year a show outdoors as Greenwich + 22 Watch Docklands International Festival starts StrEATlife, a food and craft 23 Attend beer festival at Alexandra Palace the last day of Known Unknowns at the 24 It’s Saatchi Gallery, with paintings by women hello to the animals at Hackney City 25 Say Farm and have a pit stop in the farm café a dip in the Swimming Ponds 26 Take on Hampstead Heath in north London the first night of Spun, about school pals 27 It’s forging different paths, at Arcola Theatre Jackson: On the Wall opens today 28 Michael at the National Portrait Gallery Beirut, about a man quarantined 29 Watch in a dark squalid room, at Park Theatre an Elvis Dinner Cruise with City 30 Join Cruises down the River Thames
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PREVIOUS PAGES: THE ROLLING STONES © MARK SELIGER; EID COURTESY OF GREATER LONDON AUTHORITY; GRAYSON PERRY © GETTY IMAGES/TRISTAN FEWINGS; TASTE OF LONDON COURTESY OF TASTE OF LONDON THIS PAGE: KATY PERRY © RONY ALWIN; LONDON FESTIVAL OF ARCHITECTURE © ISTOCK; BILL MURRAY & JAN VOGLER © PETER RIGAUD
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Michael Jackson was no stranger to London. As the National Portrait Gallery examines his influence on contemporary art, Kohinoor Sahota looks at the moments he thrilled the capital, from performing for Princess Diana to announcing his final concerts at The O2
B
efore the plastic surgery, pet monkey Bubbles and dangling his baby outside a hotel room window, there was a time when Michael Jackson was the biggest star on the planet and famous for his singing and dancing, rather than his eccentric image. Now, nearly 10 years since his untimely death aged 50, the National Portrait Gallery is remembering the artist in Michael Jackson: On the Wall. From the King of Pop to Pop Art, the gallery brings together more than 40 artists, from David LaChapelle to Andy Warhol, in a look at the singer’s huge impact on art and how he prevails in popular culture. Given that Jackson was a master at creating iconic images, whether it was with his fedora
hat or rhinestone single glove, it’s fitting to find that he is being honoured with such an exhibition. The gallery’s director, Nicholas Cullinan, says: ‘It is rare that there is something new to say about someone so famous. This will open up new avenues for thinking about art and identity, and invite audiences to engage with contemporary art. Like its subject, we hope this will be inclusive in appeal, and in the process, break down barriers.’ Here, we recall Jackson’s famous moments in the city, from the Bad to the bonkers.
WEMBLEY STADIUM If you ever need convincing of what a mind-blowing performer Michael Jackson was, just watch any performance from his Bad tour that came to Wembley Stadium in 1988. The tour was the second-highest-grossing one of the 1980s (after Pink Floyd), spanning 16 months and visiting 15 countries. This was Michael Jackson at his peak. He was doing what he did best, from the magical 45-degree, gravitydefying lean in Smooth Criminal – just how did he do that? – to his passionate singing on I Just Can’t Stop Loving You with Sheryl Crow, who was one of his backing singers at the time.
EQUESTRIAN PORTRAIT OF KING PHILIP II © KEHINDE WILEY/OLBRICHT COLLECTION, BERLIN. COURTESY OF STEPHEN FRIEDMAN GALLERY, LONDON AND SEAN KELLY GALLERY, NEW YORK; KING © CANDICE BREITZ; MICHAEL JACKSON © ANDY WARHOL/SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION, GIFT OF TIME MAGAZINE; SEX AND DRUGS AND EARTHENWARE © GRAYSON PERRY, ALL COURTESY OF NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY
R E B M E M E R E M I T THE
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Clockwise from left: Equestrian Portrait of King Philip II , 2009, by Kehinde Wiley; King by Candice Breitz; Michael Jackson by Andy Warhol; An Audience by Rodney MacMillian; 700 Nimes Road Bedside Table by Catherine Opie; Thriller (Black and White) by Graham Dolphin; Michael Jackson portrait for Interview magazine by KAWS Below left: Sex and Drugs and Earthenware by Grayson Perry
AN AUDIENCE © RODNEY MACMILLIAN; 700 NIMES ROAD BEDSIDE TABLE © CATHERINE OPIE/REGEN PROJECTS; THRILLER BLACK AND WHITE © GRAHAM DOLPHIN; MICHAEL JACKSON PORTRAIT FOR INTERVIEW MAGAZINE © KAWS, ALL COURTESY OF NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY
MICHAEL JACKSON © ANDY WARHOL/SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION, GIFT OF TIME MAGAZINE; SEX AND DRUGS AND EARTHENWARE © GRAYSON PERRY, ALL COURTESY OF NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY
MICHAEL JACKSON | WHERE NOW
When it came to London, the Bad show was seen by more than 70,000 people each night, including royalty. Princess Diana and Prince Charles attended on 16 July 1988, and out of respect Jackson did not perform his song Dirty Diana. Jackson, who later became close friends with the Princess, says: ‘I met her first at my concert. I wrote a song called Dirty Diana; it’s not about Lady Diana. It’s about a certain kind of girl who hangs around concerts – groupies. I took it out of the show in honour of Her Royal Highness. She took me away and said, “Are you going to do Dirty Diana?” I said, “No.” She said, “No, do it, do the song.” She told me she was honoured to meet me. I said, “It was an honour to meet you.”’ www.wembleystadium.com
THE O2 It’s 5 March 2009. There are 7,000 screaming fans and 350 reporters from around the world filling up The O2 arena, all ready for an announcement from Michael Jackson. As the hysteria builds, there are impersonators who are confusing and entertaining the public in equal measure. When he does finally arrive, 90 minutes late, he is in full Michael Jackson gear: dark, oversized aviators, a black and white military-inspired outfit and a sparkly silver armband. It takes him about five minutes to deliver a four-sentence speech that is interspersed with him punching the air, pointing to the sky and shouting ‘I love you’ over and over again to the crowds. He declares: ‘These will be my final show
performances in London. When I say “this is it”, it really means this is it. I’ll be performing the songs my fans want to hear – this is it, this is really it. This is the final curtain call. I’ll see you in July.’ Of course, as we know, he never did see us in July. The prospect of his 10-date tour, which quickly turned into a 50-date tour, was widely reported as having contributed to his death. www.theo2.co.uk
THRILLER THE MUSICAL When the show Thriller opened at the Lyric Theatre on 21 January 2009, it became an unexpected success. Conceived by the Jackson family and producer Adrian Grant, the show is a tribute to Jackson with non-stop singing and dancing – just don’t expect a narrative. The jukebox musical w w w.wh e ret r ave l e r. com 11
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WHERE NOW | MICHAEL JACKSON
| WHERE NOW ROYAL LONDON This image: Michael Jackson at The O2 Inset: Thriller Live
MADAME TUSSAUDS Getting a Madame Tussauds waxwork made of you is a clear ‘you’ve made it’ moment – you’re now famous enough to a global audience who would want to pose alongside your image. Michael Jackson got his first waxwork on 28 March 1985. This was clearly an important moment for him, as he decided to visit the venue. As he was at the height of his fame, when his limousine stopped off at Marylebone Road, it was instantly mobbed by crowds. In true Jackson fashion, he climbed on to the top of his car, white glove waving, so that all his fans could get a glimpse of him. When he announced his This Is It tour, Madame Tussauds was in the midst of creating its 13th incarnation – hardly
surprising, given that Jackson had many famous looks and that the man in the mirror’s image changed so often. Liz Edwards, a spokesperson for Madame Tussauds, said at the time: ‘Until recently we’ve had Michael Jackson depicted from his Bad era. When he announced he was going to do tour dates in London, we decided that, as this was the ultimate King of Pop, we wanted a new figure as a tribute to an iconic star. The launch date was always the same, but now that he has passed it seems even more fitting.’ With 13 figures made for Madame Tussauds London, he is the second-most featured famous figure ever, with only the Queen having been portrayed more often. www.madametussauds.co.uk
RIVER THAMES Not many people have the confidence to have a statue of themselves made, let alone float it down one of the most famous rivers in the world. To coincide with the release of his greatest hits, HIStory: Past, Present and Future, a figure was made to replicate the cover image. The imposing statue, which was almost nine metres-tall and weighed 9,000kg, was part of a publicity stunt to promote the album. But when it was sent down the River Thames, it baffled onlookers. Jackson also made a visit to the nearby Houses of Parliament in June 2002. He was accompanied by magician David Blaine and psychic Uri Geller, and caused a commotion, with fans waving from Westminster Bridge. www.parliament.uk Michael Jackson: On the Wall. From 28 Jun. National Portrait Gallery, St Martin’s Place, WC2H 0HE. T: 020-7306 0055. www.npg.org.uk
MICHAEL JACKSON AT THE O2 © TRINITY MIRROR/MIRRORPIX/ALAMY; THRILLER LIVE COURTESY OF THRILLER LIVE; ROBERT SMITH © ANDY VELLA; KATHERINE JENKINS © DAVID VENNI
takes us from his early days singing I Want You Back, to the debut of his moonwalk during Billie Jean. If you’ve never seen Jackson perform, this is the closest you will get. These impersonators are on point, from their high-pitched ‘hee hees’ to their crotch-grabbing. When the show opened, the creators could not have anticipated what would happen in a few months’ time: the tragic death of Jackson on 25 June 2009. Overnight, the theatre took on a symbolic importance with the public – it became an unofficial memorial place for bouquets of flowers, and a spot for Jackson fans to congregate and sing. While Jackson was never involved in the production, there have been rumours that it has been watched by his sister, Janet Jackson. It is now The Lyric’s longestrunning show. www.thriller live.com
F E ST IVA L FE VE R 2 0 1 8 MELTDOWN, 15-24 JUNE
HERITAGE LIVE SUMMER
SAVE OUR SOUNDS,
Each year, the Southbank Centre
CONCERTS, 15-24 JUNE
THROUGHOUT SUMMER
picks an iconic artist such as David
Returning to the grounds of
Superstars started somewhere.
Bowie or Yoko Ono to curate the
Kenwood, located on Hampstead
The Mayor of London Sadiq Khan
Meltdown festival. This year, The
Heath, this festival sees the Welsh
has launched the first Sounds Like
Cure’s Robert Smith is in charge.
mezzo soprano Katherine Jenkins
London festival, which promotes
Look out for Korean folk group
perform. Other highlights
new talent. Events range from free
Jambina and punk band Twilight.
include a DJ set by Orbital.
DJ workshops for women to gigs.
www.southbankcentre.co.uk
www.english-heritage.org.uk
www.visitlondon.com
Left to right: Robert Smith; Katherine Jenkins
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How to meet the
royal family If you didn’t make it to the UK for the royal wedding, don’t worry – there are lots of other ways to glimpse London’s most famous family, says Neil Simpson
T
he wedding of the year is done and dusted, but if you fear that you’ve missed the chance to indulge your inner royalist, don’t worry: the royal family’s calendar bursts at its golden seams with events. June is the monarch’s official birthday month (Elizabeth II’s real birthday was on 21 April), so it’s a busy time of year for HRH. Here are the key events to put in your diary.
BEATING RETREAT, 67 JUNE A chance to witness the full military clout of the Queen’s personal troops, the Household Division’s annual show combines music, regimental drills, cannons and fireworks. Beating Retreat forms a part of the Queen’s official birthday celebrations and the salute is taken by a member of the royal family. It takes place across two evenings on Horse Guards Parade, marking the 400-year-old military practice of beating drums at nightfall to call troops back from battle. This is a spectacular display of pomp and pageantry. Book online. www.householddivision.org.uk
The royal family watch the Trooping the Colour flypast on Buckingham Palace’s balcony
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ROYAL LONDON | WHERE NOW TROOPING THE COLOUR, 9 JUNE Yes, there are few royal occasions to match the drama of Beating Retreat but, luckily for those visiting in June, just two days later the Household Division coordinates another extravaganza. Also taking place on Horse Guards Parade, Trooping the Colour is the Queen’s birthday parade. The key elements to this daytime ceremony are the regimental flags, known in the British Army as ‘Colours’, which are paraded from Buckingham Palace to Whitehall and back by 1,400 officers and men, 200 horses and 400 musicians. The ceremony culminates with Royal Air Force fighter jets flying down The Mall and directly over Buckingham Palace, witnessed by the majority of the royal family as they step out on to that famous balcony.
If you were too late to get your hands on Beating Retreat tickets, you will be pleased to hear that Trooping the Colour spectators can simply pick a spot along The Mall or the edge of St James’s Park from 9am on the day. The parade, which includes the Queen travelling by carriage, begins at 10am and finishes at 12.30pm. It is also worth noting that the Colonel’s Review takes place exactly one week before Trooping the Colour, on Saturday 2 June. This event is almost identical, but neither the royal family nor the Royal Air Force take part. It’s like a grand dress rehearsal for the Queen’s big day, following the same timings, and you may find that some tickets are still available for seats on Horse Guards Parade. www.qbp.army.mod.uk
ROYAL ASCOT, 1923 JUNE This annual explosion of tremendous hats is another opportunity to spot a royal. The Queen is usually in attendance on each day of this horse-racing festival, which can be reached by train in less than an hour from Waterloo. In 2017, other members of the royal family in attendance included Prince Charles and Camilla, Prince William and Kate and Princesses Anne, Beatrice and Eugenie – who is set to marry Jack Brooksbank at Windsor Castle on 12 October. Expect a daily Royal Procession, a famously strict dress code and enough horse-racing action to ensure that Her Majesty is firmly amused. Book ahead for this quintessentially British event. www.ascot.co.uk Beating Retreat on Horse Guards Parade
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ROYAL LONDON | WHERE NOW
A right royal day in London Every key member of the British monarchy has a home in London, which means that the capital is overflowing with locations and establishments that have been given regal approval. Follow our itinerary to spend a day visiting them all.
This image: Napoleon’s cloak at the Prince and Patron exhibition Below: The Queen and Prince Philip
8am Begin with breakfast at The Goring hotel
If you’re enjoying a long stay in London, then you’ll be thrilled to hear that Buckingham Palace is about to open its State Rooms to the public once again. That’s right: you can buy a ticket and step inside Buckingham Palace. We can’t promise that you’ll stumble upon Her Majesty nibbling a crumpet with a corgi on her knee (in fact, the Queen will be spending her summer holiday in Scotland’s Balmoral Castle), but these historic rooms are nevertheless magnificent. Highlights include the Ballroom, which is the largest of the State Rooms and used for banquets, while the Throne Room contains the chairs used for the coronation of the Queen and the Duke of Edinburgh, as well as those used by their predecessors, King George VI and Queen Victoria. Finally, the chance to end the tour in the palace’s sweeping gardens will linger long in the memory. This year, you’ll also discover an exhibition of more than 100 artworks, which has been curated by the Prince of Wales to celebrate his 70th birthday. Called Prince and Patron, expect a mixture of Charles’s Royal Collection favourites and creations by young, emerging artists. www.royalcollection.org.uk
ROYAL ENGAGEMENTS For more opportunities to spot a member of the royal family, we suggest you visit the family’s official website. This database is essentially the royal family’s official engagements diary. It is updated up to eight weeks in advance and allows you to filter the search depending on your favourite royal. www.royal.uk/future-engagements
PREVIOUS PAGES: BEATING RETREAT AND BUCKINGHAM PALACE BALCONY © MOD 2017 CROWN COPYRIGHT. THIS PAGE: PRINCE AND PATRON © TODD WHITE PHOTOGRAPHY; TROOPING THE COLOUR © SCHMOOLY; THE GORING COURTESY OF THE GORING; KENSINGTON PALACE © HISTORIC ROYAL PALACES; THE IVY © PAUL WINCH-FURNESS; BAG COURTESY OF BURBERRY
THE STATE ROOMS AT BUCKINGHAM PALACE, 21 JULY30 SEPTEMBER
The Goring hotel
in Belgravia, which has a Royal Warrant. Kate Middleton spent her last night as a commoner here, while executive chef Shay Cooper’s menu offers smoked salmon omelettes, or grilled Loch Fyne kippers and a poached Burford Brown egg – even if you’re not a guest.
10am Stroll along to Buckingham Palace to see the new Splendours of the Subcontinent exhibition at The Queen’s Gallery (from 8 Jun), then visit The Royal Mews or watch Changing the Guard at 11am. Noon Travel west to visit Kensington Palace, before enjoying the Diana Memorial Fountain in the centre of Hyde Park. Cross the Serpentine lake for lunch at The Magazine restaurant in Kensington Gardens, with its dramatic, Zaha Hadid-designed dining room.
Kensington Palace
3pm It’s time for a spot of shopping at iconic department store Fortnum & Mason on Piccadilly, another Royal Warrant Holder, which has been serving fabulous afternoon teas for centuries.
5pm Walk north along Regent Street and make a stop at Burberry, the official weatherproofer to the Queen and outfitter to the Prince of Wales.
The Ivy
6pm Take a short walk west for a pint at the Coach & Horses pub on Bruton Street – the Queen was born at number 17. 8pm Her Majesty doesn’t eat in restaurants
Burberry
very often, but Bellamy’s in Mayfair is where she held her 80th birthday dinner. The Queen visited again in 2016 with Princess Anne and Princess Alexandra, who were no doubt enjoying the reasonably priced set menus.
10pm Make time for the bright lights of Theatreland and a cocktail or two at The Ivy in West Street, where the Queen attended a friend’s 80th birthday party last year.
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Really great days out that make a real difference
window seat @zsllondonzoo #ZooLife
Experience it for yourself at zsl.org/london Camden Town | Regent’s Park LZ_WhereLondon_Sept_276x206_AW1.indd 1 WL ZSL.indd 1
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WHERE NOW | PRODUCTS
POURING OUT Celebrate the Queen’s coronation Coronation Commemorator Teapot, £125, John Lewis, 300 Oxford St, W1C 1DX
FROM LONDON
SOFT TO THE TOUCH A bear to mark the Queen’s 70th wedding anniversary Steiff Royal Wedding Platinum Bear, £169, Hamleys, 188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT
These souvenirs are fit for a royal, from the official china for William and Kate’s baby son to a chocolate hamper
BOX OF WONDERS Visit this Royal Warrant Holder for gifts Enamel Box, £145, Halcyon Days, 27 Royal Exchange, Threadneedle St, EC3V 3LP YOUR CUP OF TEA Commemorative ‘royal baby’ tankard Official Tankard, £39, Buckingham Palace Shop, 7 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP
BRUSHING UP Inspired by the Queen’s love of corgis Dog Brush, £9.95, Buckingham Palace Shop, 7 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP
TEA AND CAKES Enjoy recipes inspired by the palace Royal Teas Recipe Book, £12.95, Royal Collection Shop, 7 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP
TIME FOR TREATS Chocolatier Prestat holds a Royal Warrant Eccentrically Tasteful London Hamper, £65, Prestat, 14 Princes Arcade, SW1Y 6DS
ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF THE RETAILERS; WOMAN © ISTOCK
BRICK BY BRICK Build a mini version of Buckingham Palace Buckingham Palace LEGO Set, £45, Hamleys, 188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT
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Visit the largest LEGO Store in the World! LEGO Store London Leicester Square • Visit the world’s FIRST LEGO Mosaic Maker. To create a personal LEGO Mosaic book your in-store experience at - https://storebooking.lego.com/ • See the unique London inspired LEGO Builds • Discover the broadest selection, exclusive and hard to find LEGO sets including the LEGO London Bus (10258) and the Exclusive Minifigure Lester (50308) • Enjoy hands-on play opportunities • Join the VIP Program and experience the VIP treatment. Sign up at shop.LEGO.com/VIP
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FASHIONED FROM
NATURE Supported by the European Confederation of Flax and Hemp – CELC
SAMPLE OF WOMAN’S GOWN, FEATHER CAPE, EARRINGS AND MUFF © VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM, LONDON; WOVEN SILK TRAIN © VEE SPEERS/V&A; STELLA MCCARTNEY OUTFIT © STELLA MCCARTNEY
T
his seminal exhibition explores the complex relationship between fashion and nature from 1600 to the present day. Three hundred beautiful, intriguing and unsettling objects highlight fashion’s dependence on the riches of nature for inspiration, energy and raw materials to satisfy our desire for pleasure and novelty. The exhibition celebrates fashion’s creativity and innovation and asks how the industry and consumers can harness these qualities to design a vibrant but more responsible fashion system that respects, protects and celebrates the natural world. Displays of exquisite garments from the historic to the contemporary are arranged chronologically alongside their raw materials including fibres from the 17th and 18th centuries, to now controversial materials such as whalebone and turtle shell. The exhibition goes on to chart the expansion of mass production and man-made materials, which brought fashionable dress to the masses but also contributed to the air and water pollution to which the textile industry is a significant contributor. This conflict, which has become increasingly critical in the 21st century with the scale of the global fashion industry, is at the heart of this exhibition. A range of solutions to reducing fashion’s impact on the environment is showcased. Marvel at groundbreaking, innovative fabrics such as Vegea’s Grape gown, a leather-look gown made from grape waste from the wine industry; an H&M Conscious Collection dress made from recycled shoreline plastic; and a dress made from plant roots by the artist Diana Scherer, who uses seed, soil and water to train root systems into textile-like material. See a bold display of posters, artworks and slogan clothes – some from Vivienne Westwood’s own wardrobe – that show how climate change protest movements have helped draw attention to the harmful side of fashion. Finally, through interactive installations, question a future for the fashion industry that we are yet to imagine. Fashioned from Nature runs until 27 January 2019. V&A South Kensington, Cromwell Rd, SW7 2RL. T: 020-7942 2000. www.vam.ac.uk 20 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U N E 2018
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PROMOTIONAL FEATURE | WHERE NOW
Clockwise from far top left: Detail of a woman’s gown; woven silk train for an evening dress; feather cape, 1895; earrings made from heads of red-legged honeycreeper birds; Stella McCartney outfit; muff made from pheasant and peacock feathers
BOOK NOW vam.ac.uk/FashionedfromNature
• Join the conversation #FashionedfromNature
• Members go free • Additional support from G-Star RAW
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SIGHTSEEING | THE GUIDE
Heavenly heights
Church search
One of the most famous events in recent years to take place at Westminster Abbey was the 2011 wedding of Prince William and Kate Middleton. There will be much excitement, too, when one of London’s most magnificent buildings unveils its first major structural addition in more than a quarter of a millennium (from 11 Jun). Such news might lead you to imagine that some kind of clashing, architecturally modern box has been attached to the side of this historic landmark, but this project has achieved the opposite. Called the Weston Tower, its design was inspired by star-shaped symbols that can be found around the Abbey and its look matches the style of the building. This is only half of the story, however, because the Weston Tower contains a staircase and a lift which lead to something really special in the roof: 16 metres above the ground, you’ll discover a new museum inside the medieval triforium, which is a part of the Abbey that has never been open to the public. Thanks to its height and famous round windows, this space offers panoramic views of the
surrounding area including the Palace of Westminster, better known as the home of Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament. The new museum inside the triforium (the name given to an elevated church gallery such as this) is called The Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Galleries, while its four displays collectively tell the story of Westminster Abbey using more than 300 objects. For example, the exhibition’s Worship and Daily Life section includes the Westminster Retable, which is England’s oldest altarpiece and dates back to 1259. Elsewhere, you’ll find a children’s guidebook, The Gigantick History of Westminster Abbey, written in 1742. You can also see William and Kate’s marriage licence. When the time comes, the Abbey will also host Charles’ coronation as king, just as it has done for English monarchs since 1066. You may be surprised to learn that the Abbey is neither a cathedral nor a parish church, which means that it is not under the control of the Church of England: it was designated as a ‘Royal Peculiar’ by Elizabeth I in the 16th century. For full listing, turn to p. 32
ST PAUL’S CATHEDRAL No list of London’s places of worship would be complete without Sir Christopher Wren’s masterpiece, St Paul’s Cathedral (above). At least three other cathedrals have previously stood on this site, which has been a place of worship for more than 1,400 years. www.stpauls.co.uk ST MARTIN-IN-THE-FIELDS This landmark Palladian church overlooks Trafalgar Square, providing peace amid the whirl of the West End. The site dates back as a place of worship to at least 1222, when its surroundings were – you guessed it – fields. The current structure was built in 1726 and now the church works to help the homeless, build bridges between communities and host a series of choral performances (some free) to all. www.stmartin-in-the-fields.org
WESTMINSTER ABBEY EXTERIOR © ANDREW DUNSMORE/PICTURE PARTNERSHIP; WESTMINSTER ABBEY INTERIOR © JAMES BRITTAIN; ST PAUL’S CATHEDRAL © ST PAUL’S CATHEDRAL/GRAHAM LACDAO
Westminster Abbey has an illustrious history stretching back a thousand years – and now it is marking another milestone, writes Neil Simpson
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THE ULTIMATE FOOTBALL EXPERIENCE GO BEHIND THE SCENES AT STAMFORD BRIDGE
To book please call 0371 811 1955, email tours@chelseafc.com or visit chelseafc.com/stadium-tours
02138
For full terms and conditions, please visit www.chelseafc.com
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SIGHTSEEING T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and last entry time. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81
SIGHTSEEING Apsley House Home of the Duke of Wellington with grand interiors and fine art. 16-17 Jun: Waterloo Weekend. Commemorating the anniversary of the Battle of Waterloo. Wed-Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £10; child £6. www.english-heritage.org.uk. 149 Piccadilly, W1J 7NT. T: 020-7499 5676. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
ArcelorMittal Orbit Huge observation tower designed by Anish Kapoor, offering great views over Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park and beyond (p. 30). Check for times. Adult £12.50; child £7.50. www.arcelormittalorbit.com. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2SS. T: 0333800 8099. Off map. Station: Stratford.
Banqueting House
Battersea Park Children’s Zoo Zoo with keeper experiences, a play area and a petting farm. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Adult £9.50; child £7.50. www.batterseaparkzoo.co.uk. Battersea Park, Chelsea Bridge Gate, SW11 4NJ. T: 020-7924 5826. Off map. Station: Battersea Park.
Making their voices heard In 1918, following a fierce campaign by suffragettes, the first women won the right to vote. In this centenary year, the building in which UK women’s rights were passed into law is honouring this change. The Houses of Parliament’s Voice & Vote: Women’s Place in Parliament (from 27 Jun; p. 29) explores this struggle. On display in Westminster Hall (a magnificent sight in itself ) are long-lost parts of Parliament, which have been rebuilt especially for the occasion. These represent the women-only sections in Parliament, including the Lady Members’ Room, which was created when female Parliamentarians began working. The exhibition gives a great insight into women’s place in Parliament.
PROMOTION
Kickstart your summer
I
think we can all agree that June marks the start of summer, so let’s get ready for an afternoon at The Great British Seaside. This beautiful exhibition at the National Maritime Museum features more than 100 beach images by popular British photographers. This is your opportunity to see the seaside the way they see the seaside! Step into Eltham Palace and Gardens for a Grand Medieval Joust, where knights in shining armour are mounted up and ready to charge. It’s an amazing display of pageantry and chivalry in the grounds of the Tudor palace where Henry VIII grew up.
Over in Greenwich Market it’s time to fluff up your napkin and feast at the fabulous Summer Loving, a Friday Night Street Food Fest. There’s a bar, of course, disco and soul music, vintage gear and sensational street food from all over the world. At the end of the month, Greenwich+Docklands International Festival opens with Fly by Night, when 1,500 trained pigeons soar into the skies above the River Thames in a glorious spectacle of scale and beauty. It’s the sort of event that makes Greenwich the envy of the world. See you there!
Clockwise from top left: Jousting at Eltham Palace; The Great British Seaside; Greenwich Market; Pimp My Ramen at Summer Loving
SUFFRAGETTE FLAG FLYING OVER PORTCULLIS HOUSE © UK PARLIAMENT AND MARK DUFFY; JOUSTING COURTESY OF ENGLISH HERITAGE; THE GREAT BRITISH SEASIDE © MARTIN PARR/MAGNUM PHOTOS; GREENWICH MARKET © ROBERT GRESHOFF/ARCEYE IMAGES; PIMP MY RAMEN COURTESY OF SUMMER LOVING
This 17th-century building was designed by Inigo Jones for James I, with an exquisite painted ceiling by Peter Paul Rubens. It is the only remaining part of the Palace of Westminster, which was destroyed by fire. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £6.50; child free. www.hrp.org.uk. Whitehall, SW1A 2ER. T: 0203166 6000. E8. Station: Westminster.
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SIGHTSEEING The British Library The world’s largest library, with a great permanent collection and many temporary exhibitions. From 1 Jun: Windrush: Songs in a Strange Land. Commemorating the 70th anniversary of the Empire Windrush landing through readings and music. To 5 Aug: Karl and Eleanor Marx. Exploring the links between these two activists and the library, where they used to work. To 28 Aug: James Cook: The Voyages. Explore original maps, artwork and journals from Cook’s historic journeys to the Antarctic Circle, New Zealand and Australia. Please check for times and prices. www.bl.uk. 96 Euston Rd, NW1 2DB. T: 0330-333 1144. C7. Station: King’s Cross.
Buckingham Palace The London residence and main workplace of the monarchy has 775 rooms. It is closed to the public, except in summer (21 Jul-30 Sep) when you can explore the State Rooms. www.royalcollection. org.uk. The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Green Park.
Changing the Guard Watch the Changing of the Queen’s Guard on the Palace’s forecourt (except in very wet weather). The Queen’s Guard consists of the St James’s Palace and Buckingham Palace detachments. The New Guard, which during the course of the ceremony become the Queen’s Guard, marches to Buckingham Palace from Wellington Barracks. Daily, from 10am. Free to attend. www.household division.org.uk/changing-the-guard. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria/Green Park.
Secret gardens Four years ago, the City of London Corporation declared London ‘one of the greenest major cities in the world, with 35,000 acres of public parks, woodlands and gardens’. During Open Garden Squares Weekend (9-10 Jun), an annual event organised by the London Parks & Gardens Trust, you can unlock many of the city’s hidden gardens. Green spaces opening up for the first time include two small, historic gardens at 49 Bankside (next to Shakespeare’s Globe theatre) and the New Cannon Bridge House Roof Garden, boasting many exotic plants and great views of the River Thames below. www.opensquares.org
The Guardian
Evening Standard
Until 29 July 2018 We recommend you book ahead online Members go free Claude Monet, The Grand Canal, 1908 (detail) © Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco. Gift of Osgood Hooker 1960.29
BRANCH HILL ALLOTMENTS © BILL ALDRIDGE
The Mail on Sunday
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SIGHTSEEING Cutty Sark
Dinosaurs in the Wild
Dr Johnson’s House
This 19th-century ship is the world’s last surviving tea clipper. Tour the decks and learn about its history with exhibitions. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £13.50; child £7. Joint tickets with Royal Observatory available. www.rmg.co.uk. Cutty Sark, King William Walk, SE10 9HT. T: 020-8312 6608. Off map. Station: Greenwich.
This immersive, family-friendly attraction takes visitors back in time to the age of the dinosaurs. Through simulations, theatre and interactive exhibitions and sets, see prehistoric animals in cages, a dinosaur autopsy and a research station, all while learning more about these amazing creatures that lived millions of years ago. You should allow yourself approximately 90 minutes for a visit. Tue-Sun 10am-4.30pm. Adult £29.50; child £26. Advance booking is highly recommended. www.dinosaurs inthewild.com. West Parkside, SE10 0BE. T: 0844-854 1355. Off map. Station: North Greenwich, then a 10-minute walk.
Writer Dr Samuel Johnson compiled his English dictionary, first published in 1755, in this 18th-century period home. Please check for staged performances, talks and tours. Current exhibition, London: A Poem, explores Johnson’s first independently published work, including a rare first edition of the poem and images of 1730s London. Please check for themed tours of the neighbourhood. Mon-Sat 11am-5.30pm. Adult £7; child £3.50. www.drjohnsonshouse.org. 17 Gough Square, EC4A 3DE. T: 020-7353 3745. D9. Station: Chancery Lane.
Dennis Severs’ House Ten rooms, from the cellar to the attic, illustrate the life of a family of Huguenot silk weavers from the 17th to 19th centuries. Check for tours, including Silent Night tours. Tickets £5-£15. www.dennis severshouse.co.uk. 18 Folgate St, E1 6BX. T: 020-7247 4013. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.
Eltham Palace & Gardens Experience the decade of decadence as you’re transported back to the 1930s. Part showpiece of Art Deco design and part medieval royal palace, make yourself at home as a guest of the Courtauld family. Sun-Fri 10am-6pm. Adult £15; child £9. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Court Yard, SE9 5QE. T: 020-8294 2548. Off map. Station: Eltham.
Fulham Palace A site boasting an ancient history, this attractive 15th-century building was used mainly as the summer retreat of the Bishops of London. Now it’s a museum with gardens, a café and an art gallery. It has regular kids’ craft workshops, guided walks with a head gardener and historical tours. Please check for times and special events. Admission free, charges for special events. www.fulhampalace.org. Bishop’s Ave, SW6 6EA. T: 020-7736 3233. Off map. Station: Putney Bridge.
Go Ape Alexandra Palace A treetop obstacle course for kids and adults with ladders, bridges and zip lines at this grand palace atop a hill, which has beautiful views of London. Make a day of it and enjoy the boating lake nearby. Mon-Sun from 9am. Check online for prices. www.goape.co.uk. Alexandra Palace, Alexandra Palace Way, N22 7AY. T: 0330-057 2329. Off map. Station: Alexandra Palace.
Go Ape Battersea Park Make like a monkey at this treetop adventure playground, which is suitable for children over six and adults. Negotiate ladders, bridges and zip lines while attached to a reassuring harness. Enthusiastic staff are on hand throughout the three-and-a-half-hour experience. Open daily; closed 15 Jun. Check online for prices and times. www.goape.co.uk. Battersea Park, SW11 4NJ. T: 0330-057 2329. Off map. Station: Battersea Park.
Ham House and Gardens One of Europe’s greatest 17th-century houses, with beautiful gardens that are said to be haunted. Free 30-min architecture tour daily at noon; free 30-min kitchen garden tours daily at 2pm. General admission daily noon-4pm; garden admission daily 10am-5pm. Adult £11.05; child £5.50. www.nationaltrust.org.uk. Ham St, Surrey, TW10 7RS. T: 020-8940 1950. Off map. Station: Richmond.
12 June – 19 August Join the RA. Friends go free
Coordinated by Grayson Perry RA
Handel & Hendrix in London The former homes of the Anglo-German composer George Frideric Handel and the American guitarist Jimi Hendrix. See where Handel lived and composed for 36 years, plus Hendrix’s bedroom restored to how it was between 1968 and 1969. 5 Jun: The Brook Street Band play their new album of Handel’s Violin Sonatas (6.30pm). Please check for times and special events including live Baroque recitals. Adult £10; child £5. www.handelhendrix.org. 25 Brook St, W1K 4HB. T: 020-7495 1685. D6. Station: Bond Street.
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HMS Belfast Permanently moored on the River Thames, this ship is Europe’s only surviving World War II cruiser. In service until 1965, it’s now a reminder of Britain’s naval heritage. Climb up and down the ladders to explore the nine decks, and enjoy 360-degree views from the Flag Desk. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £15.45; child £7.70. www.iwm. org.uk. The Queen’s Walk, off Tooley St, SE1 2JH. T: 020-7940 6300. E11. Station: London Bridge.
Houses of Parliament See the art and architecture inside this working parliament building, which is also a royal palace. From 27 Jun: Voice & Vote: Women’s Place in Parliament. Exhibition marking 100 years since the first women were given the right to vote in the UK (p. 24). Tours every Sat. Advance: audio tour adult £18.50, child £7.50 (one child free per paying adult); guided tour adult £25.50, child £11; family guided tour adult £18.50, child free. On the day: audio tour adult £20.50, child £8.50 (one child free per paying adult); guided tour adult £28, child £12. www.parliament.uk/visit. Palace of Westminster, Parliament Square, SW1A 0AA. T: 020-7219 4114. F8. Station: Westminster.
and actors bring this spine-tinglingly scary attraction to life. Tickets also include admission to the London Tombs, under the bridge, which are in a plague pit. Please check for times and prices. www.thelondon bridgeexperience.com. 2-4 Tooley St, SE1 2SY. T: 020-7403 6333. E10. Station: London Bridge.
The London Dungeon This thrilling attraction will whisk you back to the capital’s most perilous past. See, hear and feel the ‘bad old days’ as they come to life with costumed characters. Not for small children or the faint-hearted. Joint tickets available with SEA LIFE London Aquarium, Coca-Cola London Eye, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! Please
check for times and prices. www.thedungeons.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 020-7654 0809. F8. Station: Waterloo.
Coca-Cola London Eye This London icon is one of the world’s largest observation wheels – don’t forget to share your London Eye memories using #eyelovelondon, and look out for special evenings with chocolate and Champagne tasting. Joint tickets available with the SEA LIFE London Aquarium, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! Please check for times and prices. www.londoneye.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. F8. Station: Waterloo.
The Jewel Tower Built around 1365 to house Edward III’s treasures, this was part of the Palace of Westminster, with ornate carvings. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £5.40; child £3.20. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Abingdon St, SW1P 3JX. T: 020-7222 2219. F8. Station: Westminster.
Keats House This 19th-century home belonged to the Romantic poet John Keats. See his paintings, books and letters, plus the engagement ring he gave to his sweetheart, Fanny Brawne. Please check for literature events. Wed-Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £6.50; child free. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk. Keats Grove, NW3 2RR. T: 020-7332 3868. Off map. Station: Hampstead.
Kensington Palace This royal residence sits in Kensington Gardens, was Princess Diana’s last home and is currently where Prince William and Kate, Prince Harry and Meghan Markle reside. Don’t miss Diana: Her Fashion Story, a recently expanded collection dedicated to the unique style of the ‘people’s princess’, with new outfits on display. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £23; child £11.50. www.hrp.org.uk. Kensington Gardens, W8 4PX. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.
Kenwood On the edge of Hampstead Heath, Kenwood house and its gardens are a hidden gem, with works by Rembrandt, Vermeer and Gainsborough. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.englishheritage.org.uk. Hampstead Lane, NW3 7JR. T: 020-8348 1286. Off map. Station: Hampstead.
KidZania London Parents take a back seat in this vast centre as children take charge. Three times the size of Trafalgar Square, KidZania has everything a child could want including TV and animation studios, a chocolate factory and aviation academy – there’s even a tattoo parlour. Daily from 10am; call for closing times. Please check for times and prices. www.kidzania.co.uk. Westfield London Shopping Centre, Ariel Way, W12 7GA. T: 0330131 3333. Map inset. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.
The London Bridge Experience & Tombs
Discover beauty Visit the world’s greatest botanic garden
Only 30 minutes from central London Friends of Kew go free Kew Gardens Kew Bridge
An exciting history lesson on the past of the 1,700-year-old London Bridge site. Special effects www.wheretraveler.com 29
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SIGHTSEEING ZSL London Zoo
Madame Tussauds
The Monument
Immerse yourself in the animal kingdom at the world’s oldest scientific zoo, founded in 1826, which has more than 750 species. This is home to an immense range of animals, from endangered Sumatran tigers, gorillas from the African rainforest, and Asiatic lions in surroundings resembling an Indian national park. You can also visit the aquarium, penguin beach and the Attenborough Komodo Dragon House, with a dragon prowling this state-of-the-art lair. 1-29 Jun: Zoo Nights. Explore the zoo during the evening with drinks, music and live entertainment. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £27.04; child £20. www.zsl.org. Regent’s Park, NW1 4RY. T: 020-7722 3333. C6. Station: Camden Town.
The celebrated home of life-sized wax figures depicting famous people from the worlds of entertainment, politics, sport and history, from the Queen to Adele. The Star Wars exhibition has 11 sets from the film series, and a huge animatronic head in Kong: Skull Island. Detective fans will enjoy The Sherlock Holmes Experience, where the world of fictional detective Sherlock Holmes is brought back to Baker Street. Joint tickets available with SEA LIFE London Aquarium, London Dungeon, Coca-Cola London Eye and Shrek’s Adventure! Check for times. Adult £35; child £30. www.madame tussauds.com. Marylebone Rd, NW1 5LR. T: 0871894 3000. C6. Station: Baker Street.
This beautiful stone column standing in the heart of the City was built in 1677 to commemorate the devastating 1666 Great Fire of London. Climb the 311 steps to its observation gallery. Daily 9.30am5.30pm. Adult £5; child £2.50. www.themonument. org.uk. Monument St, EC3R 6BD. T: 020-7626 2717. E10. Station: Monument.
The O2 Huge venue for entertainment and exhibitions. To 9 Sep: Dawn of Super Heroes. Take a look inside the world of DC Comics creations such as Superman, Batman and Wonder Woman. From 21 Jun: The Heart of Hollywood World Tour. Hollywood memorabilia showcase, including the original, 45ft-high ‘H’ from the Hollywood sign. Check for times and prices. www.theo2.co.uk. Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2000. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.
Old Royal Naval College This Baroque masterpiece, part of the Maritime Greenwich World Heritage Site, is the home of British naval training, with costumed characters and tours. Don’t miss the magnificent ceiling in the Painted Hall. During a temporary conservation project, you can see the ceiling up close on a 50-minute tour from an elevated observation deck: adult £10; child £5. Check for guided tours. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.ornc.org. King William Walk, SE10 9NN. T: 020-8269 4799. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark.
18 Stafford Terrace This house gives an insight into the personal lives of Punch cartoonist Edward Linley Sambourne, his family and servants, who lived here from 1875. Take a tour led by a costumed actor (Sat) to meet Mrs Sambourne or her maid. Please check for times and tours. Adult from £7; child from £5. www.rbkc. gov.uk. 18 Stafford Terrace, W8 7BH. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.
Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park Formerly the site of the London 2012 Olympic Games, this park includes an aquatics centre and the ArcelorMittal Orbit observation tower (p. 24). Please check website for sporting events and occasional concerts. Park open 24 hours daily. Admission free. www.queenelizabetholympicpark. co.uk. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2ST. T: 0800-072 2110. Off map. Station: Stratford.
Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew Better known as Kew Gardens, this botanical research centre and World Heritage Site contains plants from across the globe, with Victorian tropical greenhouses and a Chinese pagoda, while the Treetop Walkway offers great views. Following a five-year refurbishment, the Temperate House has just reopened – the biggest Victorian glasshouse in the world houses 10,000 temperate plants. Join the free Temperate Treasures tour daily at noon or 2.30pm. Daily 10am-7pm. Adult £17; child £5; charges for special exhibitions. www.kew.org. Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 3AB. T: 0208332 5655. Off map. Station: Kew Gardens.
The Royal Institution of Great Britain This Grade I-listed Georgian building houses a museum about the institution’s 15 Nobel Prize-winning scientists. Visit its free Faraday Museum and you can see scientists at work. Please check for programme of talks. Mon-Fri 9am-6pm. Admission free; charges for talks. www.rigb.org. 21 Albemarle St, W1S 4BS. T: 020-7409 2992. E6. Station: Green Park. 30 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U N E 2018
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The Royal Mews
St Martin-in-the-Fields
This beautiful part of Buckingham Palace houses the Queen’s vehicles and horses. Witness daily working life and learn about the mews’ history with the free multimedia guide, which includes games, a video of the Diamond Jubilee State Coach’s first journey and interactive, 360-degree photography of the Gold State Coach’s interior. Children will enjoy learning how to harness a horse, as well as the busy programme of art sessions; check online for details. Mon-Sun 10am-5pm; closed 2, 6 & 9 Jun. Adult £11; child £6.40; under-fives free. www.royalcollection. org.uk. Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 1QH. T: 0303-123 7302. F6. Station: Victoria.
Landmark Palladian church (p. 22) with regular tours, a brass-rubbing centre, live classical music (some free) and an alfresco café in its courtyard (plus one in the crypt). Holy Communion given daily and classical music performed weekly by candlelight. Mon-Fri 8.30am-6pm; Sat-Sun 9am-6pm; closed 28 Jun; please check for other closures. Admission free; brass rubbing from £4.50. www.stmartin-in-thefields.org. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
St Paul’s Cathedral Sir Christopher Wren’s 300-year-old cathedral has stunning mosaics (p. 22). Climb up the dome to the
Whispering Gallery and a further 271 steps to the Golden Gallery, for a classic London panorama. Then head down to the crypt, with its monuments to Wren and Lord Nelson. The price of admission also includes a multimedia guide and tours, subject to availability on the day. Mon-Sat 8.30am4.30pm. Adult £18; child £8. www.stpauls.co.uk. St Paul’s Churchyard, EC4M 8AD. T: 020-7246 8350. D9/10. Station: St Paul’s.
Tower Bridge Exhibition This breathtaking bridge, designed in 1884, is one of London’s most famous landmarks. You can also tour the engine rooms with a knowledgable guide and do yoga on the glass walkways, 42m above the
The Royal Observatory Visit the home of Greenwich Mean Time and London’s only planetarium, which has regular astronomy workshops and Observatory tours. Learn about time in the Peter Harrison Galleries and see the Prime Meridian Line for yourself. The planetarium has just been refurbished, while its daily programme includes the new show Phantom of the Universe, exploring dark matter and the Big Bang: adult £8; child £5.50. Meridian Line and Observatory daily 10am-5pm. Adult £10; child £6.50. www.rmg.co.uk. Blackheath Ave, SE10 8XJ. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich/ Maze Hill/Cutty Sark.
SEA LIFE London One of Europe’s largest aquariums, with 500 species of global marine life and walk-through tank tunnels, including a beautiful glass walkway above a school of sharks. You can also snorkel with sharks (£130, including admission), while the new Rainforest Adventure attraction is your chance to see snapping turtles and the world’s largest species of spider. Please check for times and prices. Joint tickets available with Coca-Cola London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! www.sealife.co.uk/london. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0333-321 2001. F8. Station: Westminster/Waterloo.
Shrek’s Adventure! Ride the magical 4D ‘DreamWorks Tours’ bus to step into live actor fairytale-themed shows where you can meet the characters from the much-loved films. Joint tickets with Coca-Cola London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and SEA LIFE London Aquarium available. Please check for times. Adult £27.50; child £22. www.shreksadventure.com. Riverside Building, County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-221 2837. F8. Station: Waterloo.
St James’s Palace One of London’s oldest palaces, constructed in the 14th century and home to royalty for three centuries. Palace and house closed to the public. www.royal.gov.uk. Marlborough Rd, SW1A 1BS. E7. Station: St James’s Park.
St Katharine Docks This central London marina dates back to the 11th century and is tucked away by the Tower of London. The vibrant waterside destination is lined with regular markets, shops, galleries such as Artopia and The Alexander Miles Gallery, and restaurants including CAU, Tom’s Kitchen, Bravas Tapas and Emilia’s Crafted Pasta. www.skdocks. co.uk. 50 St Katharine’s Way, E1W 1LA. T: 020-7264 5287. Off map. Station: Tower Hill. www.wheretraveler.com 31
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SIGHTSEEING River Thames. Joint tickets with The Monument (p. 30) available. Daily 10am-6.30pm. Adult £9.80; child £4.20. Please check online for bridge lift times, which is usually twice a day. www.tower bridge.org.uk. Tower Bridge Rd, SE1 2UP. T: 020-7403 3761. E11. Station: Tower Hill.
Sun-Mon 10am-5.30pm. Adult £26.80; child £12.70. www.hrp.org.uk. Tower Hill, EC3N 4AB. T: 0844-482 7799. E11. Station: Tower Hill.
Up at The O2
Tower of London This historic landmark includes the Bloody Tower, Traitors’ Gate and the Jewel House, home of the dazzling Crown Jewels, which you view via a moving walkway. Enjoy free guided tours by ‘Beefeaters’ (Yeoman Warders). Book ahead online to attend the nightly Ceremony of the Keys, which dates back to 1340 (tickets are free). Tue-Sat 9am-5.30pm;
Prepare for an unforgettable 90-minute experience which will take you on an uplifting expedition across the roof of The O2. From the viewing platform at the top you can enjoy spectacular 360-degree views of the River Thames, Emirates Air Line, Canary Wharf and beyond. Please check for times and wheelchair access. From £30. www.theo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2680. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.
THE QUEEN’S GALLERY BUCKINGHAM PALACE
The View from The Shard Ascend the tallest building in Western Europe in a high-speed lift. At 309m up, on a clear day you can see as far as Windsor – and if you can’t see four major landmarks you can visit again for free. Daily 10am-10pm. Advance adult £24.95, child £19.95; on the day adult £30.95, child £24.95. www.theviewfromtheshard.com. 32 London Bridge St, SE1 9SG. T: 0844-499 7111. E10. Station: London Bridge.
Warner Bros. Studio Tour London Explore behind the scenes of the legendary Harry Potter films in The Making of Harry Potter tour – it is a fabulous insight into filmmaking. Visitors can witness iconic sets including the Great Hall, Hagrid’s Hut, Diagon Alley and a recreation of Platform 9¾. To 23 Sep: The Goblet of Fire. See the splendid goblet as it returns to the Great Hall for the first time since filming ended, alongside costumes and props from the fourth film. Please check for times. Adult £41; child £33. Booking essential. www.wb studiotour.co.uk. Studio Tour Drive, Leavesden, Hertfordshire, WD25 7LS. T: 0845-084 0900. Off map. Station: Euston to Watford Junction, then shuttle bus.
Wellington Arch
8 JUNE – 14 OCTOBER 2018 Includes A Prince’s Tour of India 1875–6 and Four Centuries of South Asian Paintings and Manuscripts
Climb to the viewing galleries of this magnificent arch for panoramic views over the Royal Parks and the Houses of Parliament, plus exhibitions. Joint tickets available with Apsley House (p. 24). Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £5; child £3. www.englishheritage.org.uk. Apsley Way, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7JZ. T: 020-7930 2726. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Westminster Abbey Consecrated in 1065, this spectacular abbey is the crowning and burial site of most English monarchs. It also houses Poets’ Corner, which is the burial place of Charles Dickens and other famous writers. From 27 Jun: The abbey unveils its first major structural addition in more than a quarter of a millennium, The Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Galleries (p. 22). Look out for special events and recitals, including free organ recitals every Sun, 5.45pm. Mon-Fri 9.30am-4.30pm; Sat 9am-4pm; Wed late opening 4.30pm-7pm, with half-price entry. Adult £22; child £9. www.westminster-abbey.org. 20 Dean’s Yard, SW1P 3PA T: 020-7222 5152. F7. Station: Westminster/St James’s Park.
WWT London Wetland Centre This 104-acre wildlife reserve has a Water’s Edge Café overlooking lakes, ponds and gardens which are home to more than 100 species of rare and wild birds. Visitors can watch the otters and birds being fed every day, while there are also daily ‘Spotlight’ talks on various subjects. Daily 9.30am-5.30pm. Adult £12.72; child £7.72. www.wwt.org.uk. Queen Elizabeth’s Walk, SW13 9WT. T: 020-8409 4400. Off map. Station: Barnes.
RIVER TRIPS Circular Cruise Westminster
www.royalcollection.org.uk +44 (0)303 123 7301
A hop-on hop-off sightseeing service from Westminster Pier. Boats depart every 40 minutes for Embankment, Festival, Bankside and St Katharine’s Piers (for Tower of London), returning non-stop to Westminster. Daily; please check for times and prices. www.circularcruise.london. Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7936 2033. F8. Station: Westminster.
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SIGHTSEEING City Cruises
Big Bus Walking Tours
Daily guided sightseeing tours on the River Thames between Westminster, London Eye, Tower and Greenwich Piers. River Red Rover is an all-day hop-on, hop-off sightseeing service. The London Showboat cabaret cruise departs from Westminster Pier and includes a four-course meal with live music, daily from 7.30pm. Other cruises also available. Please check the website for times and prices. www.citycruises.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7740 0400.
Enjoy a 90-minute historic and royal guided walk from Trafalgar Square, along Carlton Gardens, the Mall and through St James’s Park to Horse Guards Parade, taking in areas which can’t be reached by bus. Departs from bus stop 15 at Trafalgar Square. Free with Big Bus London Tour tickets. Daily 11am. www.bigbustours.com. Departs from Big Bus stop 15, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7808 6753. E7. Station: Charing Cross.
London Eye River Cruise
A Blue Badge or City of London-qualified guide drives you around in a taxi that carries up to five people. Choose from London tours by day or
Live commentary on a 40-minute sightseeing river cruise. Daily 10.45am-7.45pm. Adult £13.15; child £6.50. Discounted joint tickets with the London Eye available. www.londoneye.com/river-cruise. London Eye Pier, South Bank, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.
Capital Taxi Tours
night, trips outside the city and themed tours including a Doctor Who option – on which you’ll see a Tardis and locations from the films and TV series. Prices vary and are per taxi. www.capitaltaxitours. co.uk. Departure points vary. T: 020-8590 3621.
Evan Evans The oldest and largest sightseeing company in London has been accompanying visitors on city tours and out-of-town excursions since 1930. Visit everywhere from Warwick Castle and Stratfordupon-Avon to Stonehenge and Bath, as well as all the London sights. Please check for times and prices. www.evanevanstours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7950 1777.
MBNA Thames Clippers The fastest and most frequent fleet on the river, with departures from major London piers every 20 minutes. The boats set off from 22 piers across the capital. Discounts with Oyster cards and contactless payment. Download its free in:flow app, which uses GPS tracking to find out your location, and provides real-time audio explanation of the sights. River Roamer hop-on and hop-off advance adult £16.30, child £8.15; on the day adult £19.50, child £9.75; children under five travel free. Single journeys from £4.60. www.mbnathames clippers.com. Various points along River Thames. T: 020-7001 2200.
Thames River Services This hop-on, hop-off service features live audio commentary. Departs from Westminster Pier to Greenwich 10am-5pm; from Greenwich to Westminster via St Katharine 11am-6pm. Please check for prices (35 per cent online discount Mon-Fri). www.thamesriverservices.london. Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7930 4097. F8. Station: Westminster.
Thamesjet Try Thames Rush, a 50-minute adrenaline-fuelled speedboat experience – the most extreme ride on the river – and you’ll enjoy sightseeing, speed and awesome aquabatics all in one. Departs from Westminster Pier. From 10am (depends on the tide, please check). Minimum height requirement 1.35m/4ft 5in. Adult from £39; child from £29. www.thamesjet.com. Westminster Bridge, SE1 7GL. T: 020-7740 0400. F8. Station: Westminster.
TOURS & GUIDED WALKS BEE Midtown Guided Walks Approximately 15 free, themed walking tours per month around Bloomsbury, Farringdon and Holborn, an area also known as Midtown. Most walks do not require pre-booking. Full walks programme is published near the bottom of BEE Midtown’s homepage; tours start at various points in the area. www.bee-midtown.org. T: 020-7078 7077.
Big Bus Tours Regular daily sightseeing trips aboard a fleet of open-top double-decker buses. Tickets are valid for 24 hours. A one-day orientation package includes three walking tours. Adult £35; child £18. www.bigbustours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7808 6753. www.wheretraveler.com 33
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SIGHTSEEING Billingsgate Roman House & Baths
Golden Tours
Beneath the curious cobbled pathways of the Square Mile lies a rich Roman history that’s survived 2,000 years of building, fires and bombings. Lower Thames Street is home to one of Roman London’s most fascinating remains. The Billingsgate Roman Bathhouse was discovered in 1848, and is now open to the public. Explore this insight into ancient life in the City on a 45-minute guided tour and discover the remains of the Roman Bathhouse which lies hidden beneath offices. £8 adult; £6 child. Please check for times. www.cityoflondon.org.uk. 101 Lower Thames St, EC3R 6DL. E11. Station: Tower Hill.
From day excursions to overnight city breaks, the London expert offers quality tour experiences from London to popular locations such as Bath, Stonehenge, Windsor Castle and Leeds Castle. The company offers an unrivalled range of tours and services. Please check for times and prices. www.goldentours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039.
Golden Tours Open-Top Bus Tours See all of the capital’s iconic sights aboard an open-top bus. The Essential Tour includes a live, English-speaking guide, or there are multilingual audio commentary tours, during which you can
hop-on and hop-off the bus. One-day, 24-, 48- and 72-hour tickets. Please check for prices. www.goldentours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039.
Hairy Goat Photography Tours Hairy Goat is London’s best-rated Photography Tour Company on TripAdvisor – it has a mix of personal tailor-made or regular group instructional and non-instructional, day or night photography tours. Discover back streets, pubs, alleys, churches and fine details of grand, old or new architecture, or the street scenes making London a joy to discover and photograph. www.hairygoat.net. Departure points vary. T: 07540-832771.
Jack the Ripper Tour Blue Badge Guide Richard Jones of London Walking Tours devised these popular two-hour walks in 1982, offering an intriguing look at the infamous Jack the Ripper. Numbers are limited in order to give participants a better experience. Booking essential. Daily 7pm from outside Exit 4 of Aldgate East Station. £10. www.jack-the-rippertour.com. Aldgate East Underground station. T: 020-8530 8443. Off map. Station: Aldgate East.
Kia Oval Tours
BE PART OF
LONDON’S SKYLINE
Tour the famous cricket ground, home of Surrey County Cricket Club since 1845 and a regular venue for England matches. See the architecture, history and famous sporting faces. Please check for times and prices, and occasional match-day closures. www.kiaoval.com. T: 020-3946 0100. Off map. Station: Oval.
London Chocolate Tours Sample truffles and ganaches in Mayfair’s finest chocolatiers on this tour by a former cocoa trader. Booking essential. Sun 12.30pm; tours last two hours 30 minutes. £15 for Where London readers (usually £39). Departs from Green Park station, exit closest to The Ritz hotel. www.tourguides. org.uk. T: 020-8526 7755. E6. Station: Green Park.
The London Helicopter Tour Discover the capital from the unique perspective of a helicopter, with its uninterrupted views. Departing from London’s only heliport, glide above the Thames, taking in iconic landmarks including the Tower of London, St Paul’s and The Shard. Choose from the 12-minute Buzz, 18-minute Sights or 30-minute Max tour – or be brave and take an 18-minute ‘open door’ ride (£400 per person). Prices start from £200 per seat for a shared tour. www.thelondonhelicopter.com. The POD Building, Bridges Court, SW11 2RE. T: 0207887 2626. Off map. Station: Clapham Junction.
London Magical Tours The award-winning provider of private and scheduled group tours to London and its surroundings. Discover the UK with your own tour team for no parking worries: a professional guide and extra chauffeur, travelling in a private vehicle. Multilingual guides are available in all languages. www.londonmagicaltours.com. Departure points vary. T: 0870-489 0156.
London Literary Pub Crawl
BOOK TODAY AND SAVE AT LONDONEYE.COM See londoneye.com for full terms. Save up to 10% when tickets are booked online 24hrs+ in advance. COCA-COLA and the CONTOUR BOTTLE are registered trademarks of The Coca-Cola Company. © 2018 DreamWorks Animation L.L.C. The London Eye is conceived and designed by Marks Barfield Architects. Content shown has been altered for the sake of communications and some images have been captured with professional cameras. All images and copy are for illustrative purposes only.
See where the giants of the London literary world ate, drank and worked. Starting in Fitzrovia and ending in Soho, the tour visits pubs and bars associated with the British film industry and contemporary writers. Thur & Sat only, please check for times. Tickets £24, booking advised. www.londonliterarypubcrawl.com. 12 Fouberts Place, off Carnaby St, W1F 7PA. T: 020-8090 5082. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
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SIGHTSEEING London Tailored Tours These private tours for small groups are run by knowledgeable Londoners. Themed tours include Borough Market, Harry Potter, London Sports, ‘Girls Day Out’ and ‘A Royal Morning in London’. Please check for times and prices. www.london tailoredtours.com. T: 020-3289 0542.
London Walks London’s oldest walking tour company offers more than 300 walks. Each takes around two hours, departure points vary and there’s no need to book. As well as Jack the Ripper, Harry Potter and ghost walks, London Walks offers routes around London’s ‘villages’, including Kensington and Hampstead. Adult £10; child free when accompanied by an adult. www.walks.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7624 3978.
9am-12.30pm, Sun 9am-11.30am. Exhibition and Globe theatre tour adult £17; child £10. www.shake spearesglobe.com. 21 New Globe Walk, Bankside, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7902 1400. E10. Station: Blackfriars.
Twizy Tours Rent a two-seater, electric Renault Twizy and discover the sights at your own pace. These tiny cars make it easy to navigate the streets, with GPS-guided tours. Tour Stories to choose from include Pomp & Circumstance, Rule Britannia and Royal Flash. Please check online for prices. www.twizytours.com. Apcoa Parking Car Park, 21 Bryanston St, W1H 7AB. T: 07376-428363. D5. Station: Marble Arch.
Wembley Stadium Tours Go behind the scenes at this famous football stadium and concert venue, where you can follow in the footsteps of sporting greats. The 75-minute tour takes you inside the England dressing rooms, the press box and through the players’ tunnel. Have your photo taken with a replica of the FA Cup. From 10am; please check for dates. Adult £22; child £14. www.wembleystadium.com/tours. Wembley Stadium, HA9 0WS. T: 0800-169 9933. Off map. Station: Wembley Park.
Westways Carriage Horses Get collected from your hotel and experience the sights from the comfort of a horse-drawn carriage.
Original London Sightseeing Walk Ninety-minute walks depart daily from the Original London Visitor Centre, near Trafalgar Square on Cockspur Street. Choose from Changing the Guard at 10am, Rock ‘n’ Roll at 1pm, or Jack the Ripper at 4pm (from The Original Tour bus stop at Tower Hill). £9 per walk, or free with an Original London Sightseeing Tour ticket. An Explore Walks Pass, which grants access to all three walks over a 48-hour period, costs £18. Alternatively, Original Tours has launched a series of additional walking tours available Fri-Sun: Picture London at 11.30am, Royal London at 2.30pm and Haunted London at 6pm. £5 each, or £10 for all three walks. www.the originaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.
The Original Tour With more than 65 years’ experience, these live and multilingual open-top guided bus tours take you to the city’s best attractions, allowing you to hop-on and hop-off at more than 80 stops. Its original 24-hour tour includes free walking tours and a Thames River cruise pass. 24-hour adult £32, child £15; 48-hour adult £42, child £20. www.the originaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, Trafalgar Square, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.
Royal Albert Hall Tours Take the one-hour Grand Tour of this Victorian concert hall. Tours daily 10am-4pm (no tour on 29 Jun). Adult £14; child £7. www.royalalberthall.com. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7959 0558. F4. Station: South Kensington.
Royal Opera House At one of the world’s leading opera venues, you can tour behind the scenes for an insight into the venue’s history, where you might see a production in rehearsal. Please check for times. Adult £12; child £8.50. Tours last one hour and 15 minutes. www.roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
See London by Night Tour Ride around the West End and the City in the evening for a different view of the capital. Regular departures from outside The Ritz. Tours last 90 minutes. Please check for times. Adult £21; child £12. www.seelondonbynight.com. 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7183 4744. E6. Station: Green Park.
Shakespeare’s Globe This accurate reconstruction of Shakespeare’s original Elizabethan Globe theatre has the city’s only thatched roof, while the Sam Wanamaker Playhouse is a candlelit performance space. Tours begin every 30 minutes, Mon 9am-5pm, Tue-Sat www.wheretraveler.com 35
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SIGHTSEEING Tours are in either a four or six-seater carriage with an adjustable hood. £475 per carriage. www.west wayscarriagehorses.co.uk. T: 020-8572 3155.
Yonda On a Yonda tour, you’ll feel like a real Londoner as you drive a car around the capital’s sights. The car is fitted with technology that guides you, giving directions and an informative commentary along the way, based on your location. Congestion Charge is included in the price. Tours 90 minutes. £60 per tour in a two-seater convertible car; £95 per tour in a four-seater car, with a clear panoramic roof. www.goyonda.com. Q-Park, Park Lane, W1K 7AN. T: 020-3621 5662. E6. Station: Marble Arch.
OUT OF TOWN Ashmolean Museum of Art and Archaeology Britain’s first public museum dates back to 1683, with archaeological artefacts, pre-Raphaelite paintings, Egyptian mummies and Oliver Cromwell’s death mask. To 22 Jul: America’s Cool Modernism. See early 20th-century American art, including work by Georgia O’Keeffe, Arthur Dove and Charles Demuth. Tue-Sun, please check for times and prices. www.ashmolean.org. Beaumont St, Oxford, OX1 2PH. T: 01865-278000. Off map. Station: Paddington to Oxford.
Blenheim Palace See three centuries of treasures in magnificent state rooms at this Baroque palace, the birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill. The palace is set in ‘Capability’ Brown parkland and formal gardens. 7-11 Jun: Giffords Circus. The touring troupe recreates the early days of English circus. 22-24 Jun: Flower Show. The Grand Floral Pavilion on the south lawn houses more than 300 exhibitors (p. 38). Palace daily 10.30am-5.30pm; park daily 9am-6.30pm or dusk; formal gardens daily 10am-6pm. Adult £26; child £14.50. www.blenheimpalace.com. Woodstock, Oxfordshire, OX20 1PP. T: 01993-810530. Off map. Station: Paddington to Oxford, then bus S3.
Chartwell
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The family home of wartime Prime Minister Sir Winston Churchill was bought by the National Trust and maintained on behalf of the nation while Churchill and his wife were still living in it. Mon-Fri 11.30am-5pm; Sat-Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £14.40; child £7.20. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/chartwell. Mapleton Rd, Westerham, Kent, TN16 1PS. T: 01732-868381. Off map. Station: Edenbridge, then taxi.
Hampton Court Palace Once the favourite royal residence of Henry VIII, this Tudor palace and 300-year-old maze is set in 60 acres of parkland on the river. Visit the Tudor kitchens, which would have prepared feasts for the king and all his courtiers, and see Henry’s State Apartments including the Great Hall. To 2 Jun: Horrible Histories Presents Gorgeous Georgians and Vile Victorians. Catch this one-hour, family-friendly show about British history (p. 37). To 2 Sep: No One Does Feasting Like the Tudors. This season of Tudor cooking demonstrations, events and talks transports visitors back to 1538, as the kitchen prepares a feast for Henry VIII’s son, Edward. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £22.70; child £11.35. www.hrp.org.uk. Hampton Court, East Molesey, Surrey, KT8 9AU. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Hampton Court.
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Dating back to the 13th century, this castle was the childhood home of Anne Boleyn, the second wife of King Henry VIII. Daily 10.30am-6pm; castle opens noon. Adult £17.25; child £9.75. www.hever castle.co.uk. Hever, Edenbridge, Kent, TN8 7NG. T: 01732-865224. Off map. Station: Edenbridge.
Leeds Castle Fairytale 900-year-old castle, loved by Henry VIII, with a moat, gardens and parkland. Lose yourself in the spiralling yew maze, visit the Birds of Prey Centre and watch a falconry display in the Castle grounds. Visit the State Rooms, plus the intriguing Dog Collar Museum. Grounds and garden daily 10am-6pm; castle 10.30am-5.30pm. Adult £25.50; child £17.50. www.leeds-castle.com. Maidstone, Kent, ME17 1PL. T: 01622-765400. Off map. Station: Victoria to Bearsted.
The Original Tour Windsor & Eton Explore the beautiful town of Windsor and nearby Eton College, using 11 bus stops incorporating the castle grounds and following the river. Hop-on and hop-off to discover this famous market town and its centuries-old royal history – Eton College is where Princes William and Harry were educated. Departures every 30 mins. Adult £13; child £7. Combined package with The Original Tour London (24 hours London, 24 hours Windsor) adult £45; child £22. www.theoriginaltour.com. Theatre Royal Windsor, Thames St, Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 1PS. T: 020-8877 1722. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Riverside.
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SIGHTSEEING Osterley Park and House Explore this beautiful country home decorated as it would have been in the 1780s, then stroll around its formal gardens or stop for a snack in the stable tearoom. Garden daily 10am-5pm; house daily 11am-5pm. Adult £11.40; child £5.70. www.nationaltrust.org.uk. Jersey Rd, Isleworth, Middlesex, TW7 4RB. T: 020-8232 5050. Off map. Station: Osterley/Isleworth.
Palace of Holyroodhouse The Queen’s official residence in Scotland stands at the end of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile, against the spectacular backdrop of Arthur’s Seat. Tour highlights include the state apartments and Mary, Queen of Scots’ bed chamber, where she lived from 1561 to 1567. The Great Gallery has a collection of portraits of Scottish kings. Don’t
miss the adjacent ruins of Holyrood Abbey. Daily 9.30am-6pm; closed 26 Jun-7 Jul. Adult £14; child £8.10. www.royalcollection.org.uk. Canongate, The Royal Mile, Edinburgh, EH8 8DX. T: 0303-123 7306. Off map. Station: King’s Cross to Edinburgh Waverley.
Stonehenge The world’s most famous stone circle and a World Heritage Site, Stonehenge is more than 5,000 years old. With obscure Neolithic origins, it is perfectly aligned with the rising sun at the solstice. Daily 9am-8pm. Adult £19.50; child £11.70. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Amesbury, Wiltshire, SP4 7DE. T: 0870-333 1181. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Salisbury, then bus or taxi.
Syon Park This stunning Palladian mansion is home to the Duke of Northumberland. Don’t miss the interiors, gardens and conservatory. Please check for times. Adult £13; child £6. www.syonpark.co.uk. Syon Park, Brentford, Middlesex, TW8 8JF. T: 020-8560 0882. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Syon Lane.
Waddesdon Manor Renaissance-style chateau built in the late 19th century. Please check for times and prices. www.waddesdon.org.uk. Near Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire, HP18 0JH. T: 01296-653226. Off map. Station: Marylebone to Aylesbury.
HAMPTON COURT PALACE © ISTOCK; BOOK COVERS COURTESY OF HORRIBLE HISTORIES
Fit for a king Magnificent Hampton Court Palace – famed for being King Henry VIII’s favourite palace – makes for a great day out, and there’s now even more reason to go. Horrible Histories (to 2 Jun; p. 36) sees an outdoor stage added to the palace gardens, where visitors can watch the hour-long show, Gorgeous Georgians and Vile Victorians. As you might be able to tell from the title of this production, Horrible Histories doesn’t take itself too seriously. This education organisation presents history and science in hilarious, silly ways. The play begins at the end of England’s Stuart monarchy, telling the story of all four King Georges, before skipping to the Victorian era.
WITH AFTERNOON TEA Experience London’s most beloved venue followed by a traditional afternoon tea
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SIGHTSEEING Watts Gallery Artists’ Village An Arts and Crafts gem in the Surrey Hills, which was founded in 1904, with stunning Victorian paintings and sculptures in the Watts Gallery. Wander to the nearby Grade I-listed Watts Cemetery Chapel, a tiny red brick chapel. Tue-Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £11.50 (Tue £5.75); child free. www.wattsgallery. org.uk. Down Lane, Compton, Surrey, GU3 1DQ. T: 01483-810235. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Guildford, then bus or taxi.
Windsor Castle The Queen’s weekend home and the world’s oldest inhabited castle is almost 1,000 years old; it hosted the wedding of Prince Harry and Meghan Markle in St George’s Chapel in May. Includes State Apartments furnished with art by Rembrandt and Canaletto. Changing the Guard alternate days 11am except Sun. Daily 9.30am-5.15pm; please check for occasional closures. Adult £21.20; child £12.30. www.royalcollection.org.uk. Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 1NJ. T: 0303-123 7304. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Central or Windsor & Eton Riverside.
Woburn Abbey and Gardens Set in a 3,000-acre deer park, this historic abbey has been home to the earls and dukes of Bedford for nearly 400 years and is currently occupied by the 15th duke and his family. Tour the abbey and stroll around its Repton-inspired gardens. Please check for times. Abbey, gardens and deer park adult £17.50; child £8.50. www.woburnabbey.co.uk. Woburn, Bedfordshire, MK17 9WA. T: 01525-290333. Off map Station: St Pancras to Flitwick.
Blooming Blenheim If a day trip from London sounds appealing, we suggest hopping on a train at Paddington to the Blenheim Palace Flower Show (22-24 Jun; p. 36). Close to Oxford, this beautiful Baroque palace is a World Heritage Site – not to mention the birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill. The annual flower show complements Blenheim’s 2,100 acres of parkland and formal gardens, adding a Grand Floral Pavilion to the south lawn in which you’ll find more than 300 exhibitors. Visitors can make their way around the stands and floral displays, browsing for gardening inspiration and accessories.
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES | THE GUIDE
Fashioned in Mexico Artist Frida Kahlo is celebrated in a new exhibition which includes everything from her eyebrow pencils to her medicine cabinet, as Neil Simpson discovers According to Salma Hayek, Frida Kahlo was ‘a walking work of art’. Speaking in 2003 after playing the Mexican artist in the film Frida, Hayek described how Kahlo would ‘spend hours decorating herself to go to the market, or to stay in the house and paint.’ The Victoria and Albert Museum is celebrating this highly styled life with the exhibition Frida Kahlo: Making Her Self Up (from 16 Jun). Before and after Kahlo’s death in 1954, critics of the Mexican artist said that her reputation and legacy would not have been as significant were it not for her image. There is no denying that most of her memorable paintings were selfportraits, which is why the V&A is highlighting how her look was created. Discover more than 200 items, including her corsets, jewellery, cosmetics and even her medicine. For decades, these objects were locked in her house, known as the Blue House, in which she lived in her entire life. Located on the edge of Mexico City, this was locked from public view for 50 years by her husband, the prominent artist Diego Rivera, following her death. Now, many items are on public display outside of Mexico for the first time. It is Kahlo’s rich and vibrant wardrobe that seizes the spotlight. Her garments demonstrate a committed love for her homeland, as she chose to wear the dress of Mexico’s Tehuantepec region. Feast your eyes on Kahlo’s billowing and brightly coloured skirts, jewellery adorned with South American jade, and a large, halo-like lace headdress, called a resplandor. Even more intimate, Kahlo’s collection of medicine serves as a reminder of her pain she suffered after contracting polio as a child, and the injuries she received aged 18 during a crash. No conversation about Frida Kahlo is complete without mentioning her caterpillar-like eyebrows, so you won’t be surprised to see her much-used eyebrow pencil here, displayed with its original packaging. Kahlo is often portrayed as a tragic figure, but this show depicts her strength and creative might. For full listing, turn to p. 46
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Open up to Wimbledon Want to feel the weight of the Championships trophies? Interested in watching an interactive ghost of John McEnroe? Keen to cast your eyes over Roger Federer’s title-winning whites? Then step inside the multi-dimensional journey that is Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum. With complimentary audio guides in 10 languages, learn about the history of the sport, see the Championship trophies, and the amazing new Virtual Reality experience. You may also take the behind the scenes tour of the grounds and explore the home of tennis, including Centre Court, for a truly inspirational visit. Supported by
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New Virtual Reality experience Open Daily: 10:00am until 5:00pm Nearest Underground: Southfields The Museum Building, The All England Lawn Tennis & Croquet Club, Church Road, Wimbledon, London SW19 5AE
T: 020 8946 6131 wimbledon.com/museum
10/05/2018 10:56
MUSEUMS & GALLERIES T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81 some exhibitions. www.britishmuseum.org. Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8299. D7/8. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Russell Square.
Arsenal Stadium Tours & Museum
Football fans can enjoy a self-guided audio tour for Charles Dickens Museum a sneak peek inside the players’ changing rooms and tunnel and the Physio Room, or a Legends Tour Former home of Victorian novelist Charles Dickens, where he wrote classics including Oliver Twist. Please led by ex-Arsenal players. Both include a visit to check for times. Adult £9.50; child £4.50. the museum for an overview of the club’s www.dickensmuseum.com. 48 Doughty 125-year history. Please check for times St, WC1N 2LX. T: 020-7405 2127. C8. and prices. www.arsenal.com/tours. Station: Russell Square. Emirates Stadium, Hornsey Rd, N5 1BU. T: 020-7619 5000. Off map. Chelsea FC Stadium Chelsea FC is the Station: Arsenal. only London football
Bank of England Museum
team to have won the Champions League
Museum & Tours
Explore the story of the bank from its foundation in 1694, to its status today as the UK’s central bank. Mon-Fri 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.bankofengland. co.uk. Threadneedle St, EC2R 8AH. T: 020-7601 5545. D10. Station: Bank.
Interactive tour of Chelsea FC, including the dressing rooms, press box and pitchside. Check for times, prices and occasional dates led by famous former players. www.chelseafc.com/tours. Stamford Bridge, SW6 1HS. T: 0871-984 1955. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.
The British Museum
Churchill War Rooms
Unrivalled collection of antiquities, including the Roman Empire, Ancient Egypt, Medieval Europe, Ancient Iran and India. To 29 Jul: Rodin and the Art of Ancient Greece. See works by the French master sculptor displayed alongside the Ancient Greek pieces that inspired him. Sat-Thur 10am-5.30pm; Fri 10am-8.30pm. Admission free; charges for
Explore the fortified secret bunker and the Cabinet War Rooms beneath Westminster, where Prime Minister Sir Winston Churchill worked during World War II to plot the Allied victory. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £21; child £10.50. www.iwm. org.uk. Clive Steps, King Charles St, SW1A 2AQ. T: 020-7930 6961. F7. Station: Westminster.
The Design Museum One of the world’s leading museums of contemporary design and architecture. To 12 Aug: Hope to Nope: Graphics and Politics 2008-2018. Discover the role of graphic design in modern political protest, including the US presidential elections and the Arab Spring. Please check for times and prices. www.designmuseum.org. 224-238 Kensington High St, W8 6AG. T: 020-3862 5900. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.
The Fan Museum Unusual museum dedicated to the art of the fan, with examples from the 12th century to the present day. Tue-Sat 11am-5pm; Sun noon-5pm. Adult £5; child £3. www.thefanmuseum.org.uk. 12 Crooms Hill, SE10 8ER. T: 020-8305 1441. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark.
Fashion and Textile Museum Highlighting contemporary fashion, textiles and jewellery from 1947 to the present day. Please check for times. Adult £9; child free. www.ftm london.org. 83 Bermondsey St, SE1 3XF. T: 020-7407 8664. F11. Station: London Bridge.
The Garden Museum Located in an historic church, this is the resting place of plant hunters John Tradescant Senior and Junior, with artefacts, a replica 17th-century knot garden and exhibitions related to garden design. Check for times. Adult £10; child £2.50 (when accompanied by an adult). www.gardenmuseum. org.uk. Lambeth Palace Rd, SE1 7LB. T: 020-7401 8865. F5. Station: Lambeth North/Westminster.
The Guards Museum The history, stories and regimental heritage of the five regiments of the Foot Guards: the Grenadier, Coldstream, Scots, Irish and Welsh Guards, which today watch over the Royal Palaces. It’s a great insight into the Changing the Guard ceremony. Daily 10am-4pm; closed 2 & 9 Jun. Adult £8; child free. www.theguardsmuseum.com. Wellington Barracks, Birdcage Walk, SW1E 6HQ. T: 020-7414 3271. D5. Station: St James’s Park.
Horniman Museum & Gardens Collection based upon the adventurous Victorian tea trader, Frederick John Horniman, including an aquarium and huge selection of musical instruments. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Admission free; charges for aquarium and special exhibitions. www.horniman.ac.uk. 100 London Rd, SE23 3PQ. T: 020-8699 1872. Off map. Station: Forest Hill.
House of Illustration
Magic of the Mughals At its height during the 17th century, India’s Mughal Empire ruled over more than 150 million people and produced outstanding paintings and manuscripts. At The Queen’s Gallery in Buckingham Palace, the new exhibition Splendours of the Subcontinent: A Prince’s Tour of India 1875-6 (from 8 Jun; p. 47) celebrates four centuries of South Indian art. Examples which were gifted to King George III are here, as well as pieces sent to congratulate the newly crowned Queen Victoria (above) in 1837. Choosing to study Hindustani in later life, the Queen took an active interest in this realm of her empire and her Hindustani phrasebook is on display. A Hindi translation of her book The Queen’s Travels in Scotland and Ireland, sent to her by the Maharajah of Benares and featuring marble in its binding, is set to be a highlight.
The UK’s only public gallery dedicated solely to illustration, founded by Sir Quentin Blake. To 30 Sep: Quentin Blake: Voyages to the Moon and the Sun. Illustrations penned by Blake for the French literary classic. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Adult £7.50; child £4. www.houseofillustration.org. uk. 2 Granary Square, N1C 4BH. T: 020-3696 2020. Off map. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.
Household Cavalry Museum Go behind the scenes to see the ceremonial duties and roles of the Household Cavalry Regiments. Troopers with their horses work in the original 18th-century stables, with rare treasures on display. Museum daily 10am-6pm. Adult £8; child £6. www.householdcavalrymuseum.co.uk. Horse Guards, Whitehall, SW1A 2AX. T: 020-7930 3070. E7/8. Station: Westminster/Embankment.
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MUSEUMS
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Natural History Museum
The role of race A new photography exhibition at Somerset House delves directly into the heart of black music culture, by depicting the people whose work has influenced the musical landscape. The Influence Project (from 27 Jun) includes photos taken during the past four years by the Congolese photographer Alexis Chabala, who encompasses the worlds of hip-hop, R&B, funk, soul and Afrobeat. The exhibition runs during the venue’s season of courtyard concerts in July, Summer Series, and headliners from previous years are also on display, including singers Laura Mvula and Aloe Blacc, who sang I Need a Dollar (left).
Imperial War Museum
London Transport Museum
Huge displays relating to global conflicts from World War I to conflicts today. Don’t miss the powerful Holocaust Exhibition, and art collection in the First World War Galleries. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for some exhibitions. www.iwm.org.uk. Lambeth Rd, SE1 6HZ. T: 020-7416 5000. E5. Station: Lambeth North.
Museum displaying the story of London’s transport system, including iconic red buses and the world’s first Underground steam train. The Poster Girls exhibition highlights artwork produced for London Transport by mid-20th-century female graphic artists. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £17.50; child free. www.ltmuseum.co.uk. Covent Garden Piazza, WC2E 7BB. T: 020-7379 6344. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Inside this Victorian house, discover the history of east London during the 1880s, with six floors of rooms recreating scenes from the serial killer’s infamous rampage. Not suitable for the fainthearted. Daily 9.30am-6.30pm. Adult £12; child £8. www.jacktherippermuseum.com. 12 Cable St, E1 8JG. T: 020-7488 9811. Off map. Station: Tower Hill.
Jewish Museum Documenting Jewish history and culture in the UK from 1066 to today, including the Holocaust Gallery with a harrowing collection of photos and accounts. Daily 10am-5pm; Fri 10am-2pm. Adult £7.50; child £3.50. www.jewishmuseum.org.uk. Raymond Burton House, 129-131 Albert St, NW1 7NB. T: 020-7284 7384. Off map. Station: Camden Town.
Leighton House Museum The restored former home of Lord Leighton is a museum of his life and work, displaying his paintings, drawings and sculptures, plus the Arab Hall adorned with hundreds of tiles from the Middle East. Please check for times and prices. www.rbkc. gov.uk. 12 Holland Park Rd, W14 8LZ. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: Kensington Olympia.
London Film Museum Bond in Motion is the largest official exhibition of James Bond vehicles that feature in the film series, including the classic Aston Martin DB5, Goldfinger’s Rolls-Royce and the Crocodile Submarine. Sun-Fri 10am-6pm; Sat 10am-7pm. Adult £14.50; child £9.50. www.londonfilmmuseum.com. 45 Wellington St, WC2E 7BN. T: 020-7836 4913. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Museum of London The world’s largest urban history museum has thousands of exhibits in nine galleries, including Roman and Medieval London. To 11 Nov: London Nights. Photography exhibition depicting the capital after dark, from the 19th century to the present day. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions and walking tours. www.museumoflondon.org.uk. 150 London Wall, EC2Y 5HN. T: 020-7001 9844. D10. Station: Barbican.
Museum of London Docklands
Queen’s House This beautiful 17th-century house, an architectural masterpiece by Inigo Jones, boasts 22 lavish rooms displaying a stunning fine art collection spanning 400 years, including works by Hogarth. Daily 10am5pm. Admission free. www.rmg.co.uk. Queen’s House, Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark.
Royal Air Force Museum National aviation museum focusing on the RAF, with more than 100 outstanding aircraft on show, including a life-sized model of the F-35 fighter jet. 30 Jun: Armed Forces Day. A day of music and family-friendly activities. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special experiences. www.rafmuseum.org.uk. Grahame Park Way, NW9 5LL. T: 020-8205 2266. Off map. Station: Colindale.
Science Museum A huge museum dedicated to science, technology and medical achievements, including a Red Arrows 3D simulator and the IMAX theatre. To 30 Jun: Wounded: Conflict, Casualties and Care. Looking at the human impact of World War I. Check for times. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.science museum.org.uk. Exhibition Rd, SW7 2DD. T: 0333-241 4000. F4. Station: South Kensington.
Sherlock Holmes Museum Famous address dedicated to the fictional detective where, according to the novels, he lived with his friend and colleague Dr Watson from 1881 to 1904. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £15; child £10. www.sherlock-holmes.co.uk. 221b Baker St, NW1 6XE. T: 020-7224 3688. A3. Station: Baker Street.
Sir John Soane’s Museum
This 19th-century townhouse and library, which was owned by the distinguished architect Sir John Soane, houses his collection which he amassed from around the world. Please check for times and special events. Admission free. www.soane.org. 13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields, WC2A 3BP. Queen’s House is said T: 020-7405 2107. D8. Station: Holborn.
to be haunted, after Canadian tourists took a photo of a ghost on the Tulip Stairs
Somerset House
Learn about the history of the River Thames, from its time as a Roman thoroughfare to the regeneration of the Docklands area. To 28 Oct: Roman Dead. Explore death, belief and burial in Roman London. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free, charges for some special exhibitions. www.museumoflondon.org.uk. T: 020-7001 9844. Off map. Station: Canary Wharf/ West India Quay.
This building houses the Courtauld Gallery and Embankment Galleries. From 27 Jun: The Influence Project. Photography exhibition that delves into the heart of black music culture. Galleries Wed-Fri 11am-8pm; Sat-Tue 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions and events. www.somersethouse.org.uk. Strand, WC2R 1LA. T: 020-7845 4600. E8. Station: Temple.
National Maritime Museum
Twinings Museum
The world’s largest maritime museum, with 10 galleries. To 30 Sep: Great British Seaside. Images captured over the past 60 years of Britain’s quirky beach culture. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free; charges for events and exhibitions. www.rmg.co.uk. Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich/Cutty Sark.
The flagship store of Twinings since 1706 has a mini exhibition, reflecting the company’s 300-year history. See vintage teapots and caddies, plus the original Royal Warrant signed by Queen Victoria in 1837. Please check for times. Admission free. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.
ALOE BLACC © ALEXIS CHABALA
Jack the Ripper Museum
Astounding collections at this family-friendly museum, with exhibits ranging from the Images of Nature gallery, to dinosaur skeletons and fossils. To 16 Sep: Sensational Butterflies. See hundreds of live butterflies and moths inside the museum’s temporary butterfly house. Daily 10am-5.50pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nhm.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 5BD. T: 020-7942 5000. F4. Station: South Kensington.
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Where to Eat, Shop, Play and Stay Is Just a Touch Away Put the power of WhereÂŽ in the palm of your hand. Our Where Traveler City Guide app gives you instant access to thousands of hand-picked recommendations for things to do and places to go in destinations all over the world. Download it today for iPhone and Android.
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
Charming museum with a national collection of childhood objects dating back to the 16th century, plus Rachel Whiteread’s celebrated artwork, Place (Village). Admission free. Daily 10am-5.45pm. Admission free. www.vam.ac.uk/moc. Cambridge Heath Rd, E2 9PA. T: 020-8983 5200. Off map. Station: Bethnal Green.
Victoria and Albert Museum The V&A’s outstanding collection of fine and applied arts from around the world spans 3,000 years. From 16 Jun: Frida Kahlo: Making Her Self Up. Celebrating the life of the late Mexican artist (p. 40). To 17 Jun: Ocean Liners: Speed & Style. Paying tribute to the golden age of the cruise liner. To 27 Jan 2019: Fashioned from Nature. A display of innovative new fabrics, contemporary fashion and natural history specimens from a sustainability angle. Sat-Thur 10am-5.45pm; Fri 10am-10pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.vam.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 2RL. T: 020-7942 2000. F4/5. Station: South Kensington.
The Wallace Collection The former Wallace family home displays their beautiful collection of Rococo art, sculpture, furniture and suits of armour. Paintings include Fragonard’s 18th-century masterpiece The Swing, plus Frank Hals’ Laughing Cavalier. Free tours on selected dates. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.wallacecollection.org. Hertford House, Manchester Square, W1U 3BN. T: 020-7563 9500. D6. Station: Bond Street.
Wellcome Collection Wellcome Trust’s public venue housing artefacts relating to health and the body includes permanent exhibitions Medicine Now and Medicine Man, the personal collection of Sir Henry Wellcome. To 27 Aug: Somewhere in Between. Four immersive collaborations between artists and scientists. To 16 Sep: Teeth. The evolution of our relationship with our teeth and with the dental profession. Tue-Sun; check for times. Admission free. www.wellcomecollection.org. 183 Euston Rd, NW1 2BE. T: 020-7611 2222. C7. Station: Euston.
Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum & Tours At the venue of the famous Championships, displays range from old trophies and rackets to famous tennis kits from recent champions, plus touchscreens to watch past greats in action. Look out for the ‘ghost’ of John McEnroe, and the virtual reality 360-degree experience narrated by Tim Henman. New exhibition Through the Hoops: Croquet at Wimbledon charts the development of croquet, the first sport to be played on Wimbledon’s lawns. Check for times and dates. www.wimbledon.com. All England Lawn Tennis Club, Church Rd, SW19 5AE. T: 020-8946 6131. Off map. Station: Southfields then bus 493 or a 12-minute walk.
World Rugby Museum Relaunched for 2018 following a huge refurbishment, this showcase for global rugby culture is in the South Stand at Twickenham Stadium. There are more than 38,000 objects including items from early 20th-century Welsh national teams, the 1924 New Zealand side and the 2003 England team. Stadium tours visit the Royal Box, England dressing room and pitchside. Tue-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £12.50; child £7.50. www.worldrugbymuseum.com. Whitton Rd, Twickenham, TW2 7BA. T: 020-8892 8877. Off map. Station: Twickenham.
GALLERIES Barbican Art Gallery Multi-arts venue with two exhibition spaces. To 2 Sep: Dorothea Lange/Vanessa Winship. Works by American documentary photographer Lange, alongside British photographer Winship’s poetic, intimate work. Please check for times and prices. www.barbican.org.uk. Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 4141. D10. Station: Barbican.
The Courtauld Gallery Important European art collection, plus temporary exhibitions, housed in Somerset House. To 15 Jul: Artists at Work. See a display of 16th to 20th-century sketches depicting artists working on their craft. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £7; child free. www.court auld.ac.uk. Somerset House, Strand, WC2R 0RN. T: 020-7848 2526. E8. Station: Embankment.
Guildhall Art Gallery Admire paintings collected by the City of London since the 17th century, including pre-Raphaelite masterpieces, plus a Roman Amphitheatre, discovered in 1988 (free admission with gallery ticket). Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun noon-4pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk. Guildhall Yard, off Gresham St, EC2V 5AE. T: 020-7332 3700. D10. Station: St Paul’s.
Hayward Gallery Reopened following a major refurbishment, the gallery is the home of visual arts at the Southbank Centre. To 19 Aug: Lee Bul. Work influenced by science fiction, bioengineering and visionary architecture, as well as Japanese anime and manga. Please check for times and prices. www.southbank centre.co.uk. Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-3879 9555. E8. Station: Waterloo.
The National Gallery One of the world’s greatest galleries, with works by Western European masters from the 13th to the 19th centuries. To 29 Jul: Monet & Architecture. The UK’s first solo exhibition of Monet’s work for almost 20 years takes a detailed look at the Impressionist painter’s meditations on buildings. From 11 Jun: Ed Ruscha: Course of Empire. Ruscha’s depictions of Los Angeles draw many comparisons with Thomas Cole’s work. Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nationalgallery.org.uk. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7747 2885. E7. Station: Charing Cross.
National Portrait Gallery One of the nation’s most prominent galleries features artwork depicting famous British people. From 14 Jun: BP Portrait Award. International exhibition of contemporary portrait painting. From 28 Jun: Michael Jackson: On the Wall. A look at the artists who were inspired by the King of Pop (p. 10). Sat-Wed 10am-6pm; ThurFri 10am-9pm (regular Fri evening events). Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.npg.org.uk. St Martin’s Place, WC2H 0HE. T: 020-7312 2463. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
The Photographers’ Gallery This is London’s largest gallery devoted to photography, with several temporary exhibitions. From 15 Jun: Alex Prager: Silver Lake Drive. More than 40 works by the American photographer. From 15 Jun: Tish Murtha: Works 1976-1991. Exploring a documentary photographer who focused on social disadvantages in 20th-century northeast Britain. Please check for times and prices. www.thephotographersgallery.org.uk. 16-18 Ramillies St, W1F 7LW. T: 020-7087 9300. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
War paint It has been 100 years since World War I finally came to an end. The war forced the country to consider the devastating psychological impact of the fighting upon soldiers – a stark lesson that Tate Britain reflects upon in Aftermath: Art in the Wake of World War One (from 5 Jun; p. 47). The exhibition displays more than 150 artworks created between 1916 and 1932, from Britain, France and Germany. They range from paintings of the battlefields and war veterans, to early Dada and Surrealist pieces. The task of commemorating the conflict is also presented through an exploration of the official public memorials. Artists including Käthe Kollwitz, André Mare and Charles Sargeant Jagger each faced an unenviable challenge: how do you commemorate the deadliest war the world has ever known?
GEORGE GROSZ ‘GREY DAY’ © ESTATE OF GEORGE GROSZ, PRINCETON, N.J. 2018
V&A Museum of Childhood
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The Queen’s Gallery This smart gallery adjoining Buckingham Palace has exhibitions of works sourced from 500 years of treasures from the Royal Collection. From 8 Jun: Splendours of the Subcontinent: A Prince’s Tour of India 1875-6. A celebration of South Indian art and manuscripts (p. 42). Daily 10am5.30pm; closed to 7 Jun. Adult £11; child £5.50. www.royalcollection.org.uk. Buckingham Palace, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7301. F7. Station: Green Park/Hyde Park Corner.
Royal Academy of Arts See RA Collection works in all media. From 12 Jun: Summer Exhibition. The annual celebration of contemporary art, with a range of media (p. 7). To 12 Aug: Tacita Dean: Landscape. The English artist celebrates vistas she has witnessed across the globe. Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-10pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.royalacademy.org.uk. 6 Burlington Gardens, Piccadilly, W1J 0BD. T: 020-7300 8000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Green Park.
Serpentine Gallery This lovely gallery in Kensington Gardens has modern and contemporary exhibitions. From 15 Jun: Serpentine Pavilion. This year’s Pavilion is designed by Mexico’s Frida Escobeda, with regular events. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Admission free. www.serpentinegalleries.org. Kensington Gardens, W2 3XA. T: 020-7402 6075. E4. Station: South Kensington.
Visit London and see the world! Discover the treasures of world cultures, from Egyptian mummies and ancient Greek sculpture to African art and Chinese porcelain. The Museum’s audio guide helps you make the most of your visit. Find out more about the Museum’s most popular objects or take a themed tour – it’s up to you. The audio guide is available in 10 languages. britishmuseum.org Sponsored by
Southbank Centre This sprawling arts centre is home to the Royal Festival Hall, Queen Elizabeth Hall. To 29 Jul: ABBA: Super Troupers. Huge, immersive audio-visual exhibition dedicated to the pop group, with stage costumes, handwritten lyrics and instruments. Please check for times and prices. www.southbank centre.co.uk. Level 1, Royal Festival Hall, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-7928 3232. E8. Station: Waterloo.
Tate Britain The nation’s leading collection of British art from 1500 to today, including the world’s largest collection of works by Turner. To 27 Aug: All Too Human: Bacon, Freud and a Century of Life Painting. Celebrating painters living in Britain who strove to represent human figures in the most intimate ways. From 5 Jun: Aftermath: Art in the Wake of World War One. Exploring the impact of World War I (p. 46). Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8888. G8. Station: Pimlico.
Tate Modern World-class, international modern art. To 9 Sep: Picasso 1932 – Love, Fame, Tragedy. A thrilling look at one of the most productive (and dramatic) years of Picasso’s life. To 14 Oct: Shape of Light: 100 Years of Photography and Abstract Art. Telling the stories of the birth of these two innovations. Sun-Thur 10am6pm; Fri-Sat 10am-10pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Bankside, SE1 9TG. T: 020-7887 8888. E9. Station: Southwark.
Whitechapel Gallery Influential East End gallery, showcasing a range of contemporary art. To 12 Aug: ISelf Collection: Bumped Bodies. Works looking at human pregnancy. From 8 Jun: The London Open 2018. Art reflecting the experience of living in a global city. Check for times. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.whitechapel.org. 77-82 Whitechapel High St, E1 7QX. T: 020-7522 7888. Off map. Station: Aldgate East. www.wheretraveler.com 47
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ENTERTAINMENT | THE GUIDE
Fit for a king The Oscar-nominated actor Ken Watanabe tells Sarah Riches how excited he is to tread the West End boards in The King and I The performance is best known for its Richard Rodgers’ music and Oscar Hammerstein II’s lyrics, so expect a score of classics such as Getting to Know You, I Whistle a Happy Tune and Shall We Dance?. The London version stars the same actors as the Broadway show: musical royalty Kelli O’Hara plays Anna, and the Japanese film star Ken Watanabe, who starred in The Last Samurai and Inception, is the king. Both are making their West End debuts. Watanabe says: ‘I started my career on stage, which is a great feeling. But The King and I is special for me as it’s my first whole play in English, playing in a foreign country. I wanted to try an authentic, traditional stage in the West End.’ So how is acting in the West End different? ‘Because Anna is an English woman, the audience sees the show through her eyes – there is also a lot of humour in the musical, which an English audience might enjoy more than Americans.’ For full listing, turn to p. 50
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When a musical has been inspired by a real life story, which became a memoir, novel, book and film, you know you are in safe hands. And that’s the case with the multi-Tony Award-winning The King and I, which has its European premiere at the London Palladium (from 21 Jun). The plot is based on the memoirs of a British governess, which inspired Margaret Landon’s 1944 novel Anna and the King of Siam, a film of the same name and later the Rodgers and Hammerstein Academy Award-winning musical, The King and I. The musical premiered on Broadway in 1951, while this most recent version enjoyed a sell-out stint at New York’s Lincoln Center Theater, and is still on a USA tour. The show won four Tony Awards, including one for Best Musical revival. Set in 1860s Bangkok, it tells the story of Anna Leonowens, a British schoolteacher who was summoned to teach the wives and many children of the King of Siam (Thailand). While living at the palace, Anna begins an unconventional relationship with the charismatic royal – with an unconsummated love at its heart.
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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM
T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. References in listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on p. 80-81. Check for complete listings. TKTS booth has discounted tickets (Leicester Square Gardens, WC2H 0AP)
MUSICALS & PERFORMANCES Aladdin This Broadway and West End hit has a stellar cast, lyrics by Tim Rice and a real magic carpet. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £17.50-£149.50. www.aladdinthemusical.co.uk. Prince Edward Theatre, Old Compton St, W1D 4HS. T: 0844-482 5151. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
All or Nothing – The Mod Musical Set in London, 1965, this follows the rise and demise of the Small Faces, the band who encapsulated all that was mod. Please check for times. Tickets £27.50-£80. www.allornothingmusical.com. Ambassadors Theatre, West St, WC2H 9ND. T: 020-7395 5405. D7. Station: Leicester Square.
Bat out of Hell Meat Loaf musical set in a post-apocalyptic world, featuring many of Jim Steinman’s hits from the album – plus motorbikes. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £20-£175. www.batoutofhellmusical.com. Dominion Theatre, 268-269 Tottenham Court Rd, W1T 7AQ. T: 0845-200 7982. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
The Book of Mormon This controversial satire follows the exploits of two hapless missionaries from the Church of Latter Day Saints. Please check for times. Tickets £25-£202.25. www.bookofmormonlondon.com. Prince of Wales Theatre, Coventry St, W1D 6AS. T: 0844-482 5110. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
42nd Street
Chicago the Musical Academy Award-winner Cuba Gooding Junior plays seedy lawyer Billy in this popular jazz-filled musical. Mon-Sat 8pm, Wed & Sat 3pm. Tickets £20-£154.90. www.atgtickets.com. Phoenix Theatre, 110 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0JP. T: 0843-316 1082. E7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Dreamgirls Powerful tunes and a story about the tumultuous journey of a young female singing trio from Chicago. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£175. www. savoytheatre.org. Savoy Theatre, Strand, WC2R 0ET. T: 0844-871 7687. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Romantic comedy about a bossy director who stages a musical extravaganza during the Great Depression. When leading lady Dorothy (Lulu) gets injured, small-town girl Peggy has a shot at stardom. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£125. www.42ndstreetmusical.co.uk. Theatre Royal Drury Lane, Catherine St, WC2B 5JF. T: 0844-858 8877. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Hamilton the musical has been awarded a Grammy Award, Pulitzer Prize and seven Olivier Awards
Effigies of Wickedness (Songs Banned by the Nazis) To 9 Jun: The English National
Opera and the Gate Theatre present a cabaret of witty, riotous and often prophetic songs. Please check for times and prices. www.eno.org. London Coliseum, 33 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4ES. T: 020-7845 9300. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
Everybody’s Talking About Jamie This feel-good musical, set on a Sheffield council estate, tells the story of 16-year-old Jamie and how he overcomes bullies and prejudice. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £20-£85. www.everybodystalkingaboutjamie.co.uk. Apollo Theatre, 31 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. T: 0330-333 4809. E7. Station: Piccadilly Cicrus.
Heathers the Musical
From 9 Jun: Inspired by the cult, dark 1980s film about three teenage girls, with new songs. Please check for times. Tickets £25-£75. www.theotherpalace.co.uk. The Other Palace, 12 Palace St, SW1E 5JA. F7. Station: Victoria.
The King and I From 21 Jun: Rodgers and Hammerstein stage musical, set in 1860s Bangkok (p. 48). Mon-Sat 7pm, Wed & Sat 2pm. Tickets £15-£82.50. www.kingandimusical.co.uk. London Palladium, Argyll St, W1F 7TF. T: 0844-412 2704. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
Kinky Boots A shoe factory starts to produce knee-high boots for drag queens. With music by Cyndi Lauper. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £19.50-£125. www.kinkybootsthemusical.co.uk. Adelphi Theatre, 409-412 Strand, WC2R 0NS. T: 0844-579 0094. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
Les Misérables
Disney’s The Lion King Wonderful adaptation of the popular Disney film with ingenious costumes and inventive puppetry. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Wed, Sat & Sun 2.30pm. Tickets £7-£200.25. www.thelionking.co.uk. Lyceum Theatre, 21 Wellington St, WC2E 7RQ. T: 0844-871 3000. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Mamma Mia! A tribute to the popular music of ABBA, with a feel-good story set on a Greek island. Mon-Sat 7.45pm; Thur & Sat 3pm. Tickets £27.25-£102.25. www.mamma-mia.com. Novello, Aldwych, WC2B 4LD. T: 0844-482 5115. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Matilda the Musical
Seeing stars Watch shows under the stars during Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre’s new season, where come rain or shine, the shows must go on. As well as Peter Pan (to 15 Jun), this month you can watch Henry James’ thriller The Turn of the Screw (22-30 Jun), with forthcoming shows including Shakespeare’s As You Like It (6-28 Jul). Artistic director Timothy Sheader says: ‘Theatre outdoors is incredibly invigorating, but when it is created by the team we have assembled for our 2018 season, you can be sure of something extraordinary.’ www.openairtheatre.com
Award-winning show based on Roald Dahl’s children’s book, about a girl with magic powers who is misunderstood by her evil headmistress. Please check for times. Tickets £25-£122.50. www.matildathemusical.com. Cambridge Theatre, 32-34 Earlham St, WC2 9HU. T: 0844-412 4652. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Motown the Musical This feel-good musical is based on the story of Motown Records, which launched the careers of Diana Ross and the Supremes, Stevie Wonder and more. Please check for times and prices. www.shaftesburytheatre.com. Shaftesbury Theatre, 210 Shaftesbury Ave, WC2H 8DP. T: 020-7379 5399. D8. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Holborn.
OPENING PAGE: THE KING AND I © PAUL KOLNIK; THIS PAGE: REGENT’S PARK OPEN AIR THEATRE © DAVID JENSEN
The world’s longest-running musical, adapted from Victor Hugo’s novel, is set in post-revolutionary France. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £47.25-£177.25. www.lesmis.com. Queen’s Theatre, 51 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 6BA. T: 0844-482 5160. D8. Station: Leicester Square.
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ENTERTAINMENT
We have lift off The biannual contemporary and performance art festival, Lift, is back, and this year it’s all about diverse communities (from 1 Jun). Artistic director David Binder says: ‘We want to celebrate our diverse communities, dispel seeded fears and confront preconceptions. We welcome global citizens to create work for everyone; whether you were born here, have made it your home or are just passing through.’ The programme includes Mercenary, with football and dancing at Battersea Arts Centre inspired by Qatar’s treatment of migrants, and Notes from the Field at the Royal Court Theatre, starring The West Wing’s Anna Deavere Smith, about minorities in the US leaving school for prison. You can also listen to opera, storytelling and drumming by The National Theatre of Korea in Trojan Women (left). www.liftfestival.com
Long-running Gothic drama in which a mysterious masked man haunts the Paris Opera House. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £25-£204.75. www.thephantomoftheopera.com. Her Majesty’s Theatre, 57 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QL. T: 0844-412 2707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
School of Rock: The Musical In Andrew Lloyd Webber’s musical, a musician teaches students to be rock stars. Please check for times. Tickets £15-£149.50. www.schoolofrock themusical.com. New London Theatre, 166 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PF. T: 020-7452 3000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Strictly Ballroom the Musical Drew McOnie directs Will Young in Baz Luhrmann’s musical, adapted from the 1992 film. Please check for times. Tickets £15-£149.50. www.piccadillytheatre. org. Piccadilly Theatre, 16 Denman St, W1D 7DY. T: 0844-871 7630. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Thriller Live Non-stop songs and dance celebrate Michael Jackson’s career, with all his hits including Thriller (p. 12). Please check for times and prices. www.thrillerlive.com. Lyric, 29 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. T: 0844-482 9674. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Tina: The Tina Turner Musical Musical based on the life of Anna Mae Bullock, aka Tina Turner. Hits include The Best. Mon-Sat, check for times. Tickets £10-£79.50. www.tinathemusical. com. Aldwych Theatre, 9 Aldwych, WC2B 4DF. T: 0845-200 7981. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Wicked The brilliant backstory of the Witches of Oz about two students at sorcery school, with the hit tunes Defying Gravity and Popular. Please check for times. Tickets £24.75-£175. www.wickedthemusical.co.uk. Apollo Victoria Theatre, 17 Wilton Rd, SW1V 1LG. T: 0844-871 3001. F7. Station: Victoria.
Young Frankenstein Legendary Mel Brooks brings his monster musical to life in an all-singing, all-dancing show. Please check for times and prices. www.garricktheatre.org. Garrick Theatre, 2 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0HH. T: 0844-482 9673. E7/8. Station: Leicester Square.
PLAYS
Hamlet
play, which was first performed in 1952, is set in post-war Soho. Please check for times and prices. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk. National Theatre, South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.
Learning of his father’s death, Prince Hamlet of Denmark returns home to find his uncle installed on the throne. Please check for times. Tickets £5-£22. www.shakespearesglobe.com. Shakespeare’s Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919. E10. Station: Blackfriars.
An Ideal Husband
Harry Potter and the Cursed Child
Absolute Hell To 16 Jun: Rodney Ackland’s
Oscar Wilde’s satire about blackmail and political corruption, starring Edward Fox. Please check for times. Tickets £19.50-£75. www.vaudeville-theatre. co.uk. Vaudeville Theatre, 404 Strand, WC2R 0NH. T: 0330-333 4814. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
An Octoroon From 7 Jun: A provocative play about race in today’s America. Please check for times and returns. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk. National Theatre, South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.
As You Like It In the Bard’s comedy, Rosalind, daughter of a duke, falls in love with courtier Orlando. Please check for times. Tickets from £5. www.shakespearesglobe.com. Shakespeare’s Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919. E10. Station: Blackfriars.
The Comedy About a Bank Robbery A hilarious play about six crooks desperate to get hold of a diamond. Please check for times. Tickets £10-£73.75. www.thecomedyaboutabankrobbery.com. The Criterion Theatre, 218-223 Piccadilly, W1V 9LB. T: 0844-815 6131. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Consent Friends take opposing sides in a contentious legal case, where the key witness is a woman whose life seems a world away from theirs. Please check for times. Tickets £10-£80. www.atgtickets.com. Harold Pinter Theatre, Panton St, SW1Y 4DN. T: 0844-871 7622. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Faulty Towers: The Dining Experience Seventies-style dining and interactive comedy combine in this theatrical experience based on the cult TV comedy. Please check for times. Tickets £67.50-£79.50. www.faultytowers-uk.com. Radisson Blu Edwardian, 9-13 Bloomsbury St, WC1B 3QD. T: 0845-154 4145. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Father-of-three Harry now works for the Ministry of Magic, but his youngest son grapples with the legacy that he never really wanted. Please check for returns and times. www.harrypottertheplay.com. Palace Theatre, 113 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 5AY. T: 0300-333 4813. D7. Station: Leicester Square.
Killer Joe Orlando Bloom stars as a police officer who moonlights as a killer for hire. Suitable for over 16s. Mon-Sat 7.30pm (not 4 Jun); Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Please check for prices. www.atgtickets.com. Trafalgar Studios, 14 Whitehall, SW1A 2DY. T: 0844-871 7632. E7/8. Station: Charing Cross.
Machinal From 4 Jun: A woman is restless and feels suffocated by her partner. Please check for times. Tickets £10-£39.50. www.almeida.co.uk. Almeida Theatre, Almeida St, Islington, N1 1TA. T: 020-7359 4404. Off map. Station: Highbury & Islington.
Mood Music To 16 Jun: A young songwriter, her producer, lawyers and psychotherapists argue over who owns a hit song in a top London studio. Please check for times and prices. www.oldvictheatre.com. The Old Vic, The Cut, SE1 8NB. T: 0844-871 7628. F9. Station: Waterloo.
The Mousetrap A murderer strikes at a party in Agatha Christie’s long-running whodunnit. Please check for times and prices. www.the-mousetrap.co.uk. St Martin’s Theatre, West St, WC2H 9NZ. T: 0844-499 1515. D7. Station: Leicester Square.
The Play That Goes Wrong Slapstick comedy about a drama society staging a murder mystery. Please check for times. Tickets £20-£67.50. www.theplaythatgoeswrong.com. Duchess Theatre, 3-5 Catherine St, WC2B 5LA. T: 0844-482 9672. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
LIFT © NATIONAL THEATRE OF KOREA
The Phantom of the Opera
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‘HILARIOUS, MOVING, GLORIOUS’ THE DA I LY TEL EGR A P H
THE MUSICAL MatildaTheMusical.com
CAMBRIDGE THEATRE, London, WC2H 9HU
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ENTERTAINMENT Quiz
Witness for the Prosecution To 16 Jun: Inspired by a cheater in
the quiz show Who Wants to be a Millionaire? in 2001. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£95. www.delfont mackintosh.co.uk. Noël Coward Theatre, St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4AU. T: 0844-482 5140. E8. Station: Leicester Square.
Red Alfred Molina reprises his performance as the American abstract expressionist painter Mark Rothko. Please check for times and prices. www.delfontmackintosh.co.uk. Wyndham’s Theatre, Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0DA. T: 0844-482 5120. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
CHILDREN & FAMILIES
Agatha Christie’s gripping courtroom drama, based around a murder trial, is staged in a former courtroom. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm. Tickets £10-£75. www.witnesscountyhall. com. County Hall, Belvedere Rd, South Bank, SE1 7PB. T: 0844-815 7141. F8. Station: Waterloo.
From 15 Jun: The lives of identical twins change drastically. Please check for times and prices. www.polkatheatre.com. Polka Theatre, 240 The Broadway, SW19 1SB. T: 020-8543 4888. Off map. Station: Wimbledon.
The Woman in Black
TriOperas – The Hit Opera Show
In this spooky story, a lawyer settles affairs after a woman’s death. Tue-Sat 8pm; Tue & Thur 3pm; Sat 4pm. Tickets £21.50-£60. www.thewomaninblack. com. Fortune Theatre, Russell St, WC2B 5HH. T: 0844-871 7626. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Extracts from operas ( Turandot, Madame Butterfly and Carmen) merged with punk, rap and hip-hop. Please check for times and prices. www.peacock theatre.com. The Peacock, Portugal St, WC2A 2HT. T: 020-7863 8222. Off map. Station: Holborn.
Double Act
CONCERTS: CLASSICAL Barbican 1 Jun: Bayerisches Staatsorchester: Mahler’s 7th Symphony. 11 Jun: RAF Centenary Concert:
ALL SINGING! ALL DANCING! ALL LAUGHING!
0330 333 4811 | GARRICK THEATRE | YoungFrankenstein.co.uk 2 Charing Cross Road, London, WC2H 0HH |
Leicester Square
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100 Years of British Music. www.barbican.org.uk. Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 8891. C10. Station: Barbican.
Cadogan Hall 3 Jun: Megan Hilty. 17 Jun: Parisian Summer Nights (Saint-Saëns). www.cadoganhall.com. 5 Sloane Terrace, SW1X 9DQ. T: 020-7730 4500. G6. Station: Sloane Square.
Lights, camera, London! Now it’s summer, you can catch classic films and the latest blockbusters on big screens under the stars. The Luna Cinema returns for its 10th edition. Watch the Oscar-winning thriller Get Out (10 Jun) and the 1986 classic Ferris Bueller’s Day Off (17 Jun), both at One New Change (below). Other highlights include the Academy Award-winner Frances McDormand in Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri (1 Jun), and Tom Cruise in Top Gun (2 Jun), both in Southwark Park. Last year’s film Dunkirk (21 Jun), about the World War II battle, is screened alfresco at Brockwell Lido. www.thelunacinema.com
PHOTO COURTESY OF THE LUNA CINEMA
DAILY MAIL, GUARDIAN, RADIO TIMES, WHATSONSTAGE
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ENTERTAINMENT Royal Albert Hall 9 Jun: The Music of Hans Zimmer vs John Williams.
www.royalalberthall.com. Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212. G4. Station: South Kensington.
IN THE HEART OF LEICESTER SQUARE
St Martin-in-the-Fields Church Extensive programme of lunchtime and evening concerts. www.smitf.org. St Martin-in-the-Fields Church, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
CONCERTS: POP, JAZZ & WORLD The O2 10 Jun: Demi Lovato. 11 Jun: Shakira. 14-15 Jun: Katy Perry (p. 8). 18-19 Jun: Pearl Jam.
www.theo2.co.uk. Peninsula Square, SE10 0AX. T: 0844-856 0202. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.
Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club 8-9 Jun: Istanbul Sessions. 14-15 Jun: Claire Martin’s European Quartet. 18-23 Jun: The Blackbyrds. 25-30 Jun: Billy Cobham with the Guy Barker Big Band. www.ronniescotts.co.uk. 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Royal Albert Hall 14 Jun: Close Encounters of the Third Kind in Concert. 25 Jun: UB40. 28 Jun: Anitta. www.royalalberthall.com. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212. F4.
Station: South Kensington.
DANCE Royal Opera House VISIT OUR NEW ONLINE GUIDE FOR TRAVEL TIPS, ITINERARIES AND TICKETS
LONDON PLANNER .COM Your friend in the city
21 Jun: Swan Lake (Tchaikovsky). Please check for times and prices. www.roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Sadler’s Wells 5-8 Jun: Akram Khan – Portraits in Otherness. 12-13 Jun: Birmingham Royal Ballet – Romeo
& Juliet. www.sadlerswells.com. Sadler’s Wells Theatre, Rosebery Ave, EC1R 4TN. T: 020-7863 8000. Off map. Station: Angel.
OPERA London Coliseum 9-16 Jun: Acis and Galatea (Handel). www.eno.org. 33 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4ES. T: 020-7845 9300. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
The Royal Opera House
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From 16 Jun: La Bohème (Puccini). www.roh. org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8.
Station: Covent Garden.
FESTIVALS & EVENTS Greenwich + Docklands International Festival From 22 Jun: A free festival that celebrates performing arts. www.festival.org. T: 020-8305 1818.
Meltdown Festival 15-24 Jun: Robert Smith (The Cure) curates this
THINGS TO DO | FOOD AND DRINK | ESSENTIALS | FIRST VISIT ITINERARIES | ASK THE EXPERT | TICKETS AND OFFERS
annual music festival. www.southbankcentre.co.uk. Royal Festival Hall, Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 0844-545 8252. E8. Station: Waterloo.
Summer by the River From 1 Jun: This free festival has an English country garden theme. London Bridge City, SE1 2DB. E11. Station: London Bridge.
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SHOPPING | THE GUIDE
Capital growth When Westfield London first opened in 2008, it was the largest shopping centre in London and now, after a multi-millionpound refurbishment, it is the largest in Europe. Nestled close to Shepherd’s Bush station in West London, the centre has recently unveiled a new look, making it a must-visit destination for avid shoppers. The venue completed its first phase of expansion in March, six months ahead of schedule. Prior to this ambitious redevelopment, Westfield London was home to 360 retailers ranging from high-street to luxury brands. The expansion covers 740,000 sq ft of space with 90 new shops and eateries. Established retailers, including H&M, The White Company, Pull&Bear and Cath Kidston, are also benefiting from the changes, as their stores have been updated and expanded. One of the most significant additions is the John Lewis department store. Set over four levels, this branch of the trusted retailer stocks the brand’s entire line of products, making it a one-stop shop for loyal John Lewis fans. Other names arriving at Westfield London are the Danish furniture chain BoConcept and the first stadium store for Adidas, where customers will be encouraged to trial products by taking them for a test run. Look out, too, for Bravissimo, which stocks lingerie, swimwear and clothes for women who wear a D- to L-cup size. Bargain hunters, meanwhile, will be thrilled to learn that a huge Primark is arriving. Covering 70,000 sq ft, the store is huge – it’s even bigger than the White House in Washington DC. Shopping can, of course, be hard work. If your feet need a rest, there’s no shortage of restaurants or cafés to head to. Refuel in the newly opened Japanese Ichiba food hall or Maple, Westfield’s latest brasserie and bar. For something lighter, make your way to Ole & Steen for a Danish pastry or a cake. The venue has also created Westfield Square, an outdoor events space that will be a lively hub for entertainment and dining. If you’re after family-friendly fun, there’s a new All Star Lanes, too: it has seven bowling lanes, a karaoke booth, two Art Deco-style bars and a 100-seater restaurant serving American classics and cocktails. For full listing, turn to p. 63
WESTFIELD LONDON IMAGES COURTESY OF WESTFIELD LONDON
As Westfield London expands to become the largest shopping centre in Europe, Arielle Witter takes a step inside for a spot of retail therapy
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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM
T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81
MAJOR SHOPPING AREAS Bond Street Home to designer boutiques, antiques, art and jewellery, plus auction houses Sotheby’s and Bonhams. D6/E6/E7. Station: Bond Street.
Carnaby Once the domain for 1960s mods and rockers, these days the Carnaby area still appeals to the fashionable set, with sports-inspired stores and edgy designers. D7/E7. Station: Oxford Circus.
Covent Garden This former fruit and vegetable market is now a popular centre for arts, crafts and special interest shops and stalls. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
This department store is famous for its prints, which are on everything from scarves to notebooks. Designer fashion for men and women scores highly here, too. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.liberty.co.uk. Great Marlborough St, W1B 5AH. T: 020-7734 1234. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
House of Fraser Fashion, beauty and electrical goods. Mon-Fri 9.30am-10pm; Sun noon-6.30pm. www.houseof fraser.com. 318 Oxford St, W1C 1HF (and branches). T: 0844-800 3752. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
John Lewis
This hidden historic corner of London is home to the jewellery trade and the centre of the diamond industry. C9/D9. Station: Farringdon.
Covetable fashion labels, homeware and electrical goods at this trusted department store. Mon-Wed, Fri 9.30am-8pm; Thur 9.30am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.johnlewis.com. 300 Oxford St, W1A 1EX (and branches). T: 020-7629 7711. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
Jermyn Street & St James’s
Marks & Spencer
Some of the oldest specialist menswear shops in London are found in this area, including hatters and shirtmakers. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Reliable source for lingerie and food, as well as many fashion collections (multiple locations around London). Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.marksandspencer.com. 458 Oxford St, W1C 1AP. T: 020-7935 7954. D6. Station: Marble Arch.
Hatton Garden
King’s Road Once famous for upmarket fashion, this iconic street still attracts a polished crowd. Duke of York Square bustles with antique and furniture shops. G4. Station: Sloane Square.
Oxford Street Europe’s busiest shopping street has major department stores including Selfridges and John Lewis, plus popular high-street chains. D6/D7. Station: Oxford Circus/Bond Street/Marble Arch.
Regent Street Originally designed by John Nash, this prestigious area includes Liberty and the first British Ferrari shop. D6/D7/E7. Station: Oxford Circus/Piccadilly Circus.
Savile Row One of London’s most famous areas for tailoring is in upmarket Mayfair. Find bespoke tailors including Anderson & Sheppard. E7. Station: Green Park.
MAJOR STORES Fenwick Designer names and regular events. Mon-Wed; Fri & Sat 10am-7pm; Thur 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.fenwick.co.uk. 63 New Bond St, W1S 1RQ. T: 020-7629 9161. E6. Station: Bond Street. MASTERPIECE LONDON COURTESY OF MASTERPIECE LONDON
Liberty
Fortnum & Mason This British institution is famed for its food hall. Mon-Sat 10am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.fortnum andmason.com. 181 Piccadilly, W1A 1ER. T: 0845300 1707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Hamleys Huge toy shop. Mon-Fri 9am-10pm; Sat 9.30am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.hamleys.com. 188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT. T: 0871-704 1977. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
Harrods Edwardian food and meat halls, men’s, women’s and children’s fashion, cosmetics, a spa, bars and restaurants. Mon-Fri 10am-9pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.harrods.com. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.
Selfridges The finest products in beauty and fashion, plus numerous restaurants and bars. Mon-Sat 9.30am10pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.selfridges.com. 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 0800-123 400. D6. Station: Bond Street.
FASHION Burberry Find the full Burberry London and Prorsum collections featuring clothing for men, women, children and babies, including a winning mix of classic and funky raincoats, separates and accessories (multiple locations around London). www.burberry.com. 121 Regent St, W1B 4TB. T: 020-7806 8904. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Cath Kidston Home to stylish accessories with London prints, plus childrenswear. www.cathkidston.com. 178-180 Piccadilly, W1J 9ER. T: 020-7499 9895. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Chanel Chanel exudes style and class in all of its designs and products, fashion-forward shoppers can spend hours browsing through accessories, clothing, bags and other treasures at this chic flagship (multiple locations around London). www.chanel.com. 158-159 New Bond St, W1S 7UB. T: 020-7493 5040. E6. Station: Green Park
Hackett For those who hanker after the classic British gentleman-at-leisure look, this store is hard to beat. Find polos, sporting jackets and cords, suiting and plenty of accessories (multiple locations around London). www.hackett.com. 193-197 Regent St, W1B 4LY. T: 020-7494 4917. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Pieces of the past After your very own piece by Claude Monet, Pablo Picasso or Camille Pissarro? Then head to Masterpiece London (28 Jun-4 Jul), which appeals to art, history and design aficionados and collectors. Taking place at the Royal Hospital Chelsea, the fair has cross-collection art, furniture, design and jewellery. Bringing together exhibitors from around the world, the event showcases some of the finest and rarest works from antiquity. The visual feast includes books, maps, manuscripts and ceramics. South Grounds, Royal Hospital Chelsea, Royal Hospital Rd, SW3 4LW. T: 020-7499 7470. www.masterpiecefair.com. Off map. Station: Sloane Square
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SHOPPING HYDE PARK CORNER (0.3miles)
Mari Vanna
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Chocolatier Godiva is located inside Harrods, the world-famous department store. This chocolate shop has mouthwatering truffles, which are presented in beautiful boxes. The café serves a huge choice of treats from chocolate cakes to hot chocolate. Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234. www.harrods.com
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SHOPPING
LUXURY ARCADES
JEWELLERY & WATCHES
Burlington Arcade
David Morris
Running from Burlington Gardens to Piccadilly, this Regency arcade has specialist shops. Mon-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat 9am-6.30pm; Sun 11am-5pm. www.burlington-arcade.co.uk. Burlington Arcade, 51 Piccadilly, W1J 0QJ. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
This esteemed British jewellery brand offers beautiful couture jewellery made to the highest standards. www.davidmorris.com. 180 New Bond St, W1S 4RL. T: 020-7499 2200. E7. Station: Green Park.
This wellbeing emporium is more than 200 years old and is the pharmacy to the Queen. It offers emergency prescriptions and vaccinations. www.johnbellcroyden.co.uk. Check for opening times. 50-54 Wigmore St, W1U 2AU. T: 020-7935 5555. D6. Station: Bond Street.
Links of London
London Glassblowing
Jewellery and watches with high-quality designs. www.linksoflondon.com. 491 Oxford St, W1A 2LR. T: 020-7491 2371. D5. Station: Bond Street.
Pick up a souvenir and try glassblowing with a session at the UK’s foremost studio and gallery for contemporary glass art. www.londonglassblowing. co.uk. 62-66 Bermondsey St, SE1 3UD. T: 020-7403 2800. F11. Station: London Bridge.
Leadenhall Market A spectacular Victorian covered market in the City that dates back to the 14th century. Mon-Fri 11am5pm. www.leadenhallmarket.co.uk. Gracechurch St, EC3V 1LR. D11. Station: Monument.
MALLS & FACTORY OUTLETS Bicester Village Discount designer clothes at this relaxed haven in Oxfordshire. Mon-Wed & Fri 9am-9pm; Thur & Sat 9am-10pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www.bicester village.com. Bicester Village, Bicester, Oxfordshire, OX26 6WD. T: 01869-323 200. Off map. Station: Bicester Village, from London Marylebone. There is also a bus pick-up service from major hotels.
Westfield London This mall has more than 450 shops, from high-street names to high-end labels (p. 60). www.westfield. com/london. Ariel Way, W12 7GF. T: 020-3371 2300. Map inset. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.
Pandora Find jewellery, including charm bracelets that you build. www.pandora.net. 257-259 Oxford St, W1C 2DD. T: 020-7407 2007. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
KIDS’ STORES LEGO Store LEGO merchandise, including a huge replica of Big Ben made from bricks. 3 Swiss Court, W1D 6AP. T: 020-7839 3480. www.lego.com/ en-gb/stores. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
M&M’s World Sweet treats, including London-inspired chocolate souvenirs. Mon-Sat 10am-midnight; Sun noon-6pm. www.mmsworld.com. 1 Swiss Court, W1D 6AP. T: 020-7025 7171. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
SPECIALIST STORES
Westfield Stratford City
Buckingham Palace Shop
Massive mall with 270 shops as well as a cinema and casino. www.westfield.com/stratfordcity. 2 Stratford Place, E20 1EJ. T: 020-8221 7300. Map inset. Station: Stratford.
Royal souvenirs, including a jewellery line created by Alex Monroe. Mon-Sat 9.30am-5pm. www.royal collectionshop.co.uk. 7 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7839 1377. E6. Station: Victoria.
John Bell & Croyden
Prestat One of London’s oldest chocolate shops, selling chocolate, truffles and more. Please check for times. www.prestat.co.uk. 14 Princes Arcade, SW1Y 6DS. T: 020-8961 8555. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Green Park.
Twinings This is one of the capital’s oldest shops – it’s been trading from 1706 – and is full of a variety of teas and infusions. Enjoy a free Tea Tasting session. Mon-Fri 9.30am-8pm; Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-6pm. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.
We Built This City Quirky souvenir shop – look out for the stuffed pigeons, wallets and artworks. Check for times. www.webuiltthiscity.co.uk. 56-57 Carnaby St, W1F 9QF. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.
The Whisky Exchange Specialist retailer of fine whiskies and spirits. www.thewhiskyexchange.com. 2 Bedford St, WC2E 9HH. T: 020-7403 8688. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
SHOPPING ESSENTIALS SIZING GUIDE UK
US
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TAX-FREE SHOPPING Value Added Tax (VAT) is a 20% sales tax added on all goods except food, books and children’s clothing. Overseas visitors from outside the EU can shop tax-free in the UK, recouping some of the cost of the item. Don’t forget to ask in-store for more information about tax-free shopping.
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Normal opening times for most shops are Mon-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 11am-5pm unless stated otherwise. Some shops may stay open until 9pm on Thursdays for late-night shopping. www.wheretraveler.com 61
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DINING | THE GUIDE
Flower power Petersham Nurseries has come a long way since the Boglione family took over a plant nursery in Richmond in 2004, transforming it into a garden centre, shop, teahouse and restaurant. Surrounded by meadows alongside the River Thames, it developed a cult following and, thanks to former chef Skye Gyngell, was awarded a Michelin star in 2011 and 2012. The nursery’s second branch opened in summer 2017 in a Grade II-listed townhouse in the aptly named Floral Court in Covent Garden. The 16,000 sqft site opened with a florist, courtyard, delicatessen and wine cellar, as well as a home and garden shop featuring two original domed skylights. Like the family home in Richmond, it has lime-washed walls, old wooden floorboards, vintage crystal chandeliers and Italian table linen – and it bursts with blooms. At the end of April, the Covent Garden branch opened two much-awaited new restaurants – La Goccia and The Petersham. As you might expect, both brim with flowers and serve dishes that include fresh fruit,
vegetables, chicken, rabbit, duck and pork that are all sourced from the organic family farm in Devon. The all-day restaurant La Goccia features an open kitchen with a grill and wood-fired oven. The extensive menu changes regularly but one thing’s for sure: ingredients are always seasonal. Sample small plates such as burrata in olive oil, grilled artichokes, roasted vegetables, focaccia and charcuterie. The Petersham, meanwhile, champions the slow-food philosophy and serves Italian á la carte dishes at lunch and dinner, and has pre- and post-theatre menus. Like La Goccia, it focuses on seasonal produce: fennel and edible flower salad, and rhubarb and almond tart – decorated with petals, naturally. It also serves Italian fine wines.
Inspired by the family home, Petersham House in Richmond, its interior is decorated with contemporary art and Murano glassware. If you are looking to take home a piece of the venue, visit The Shop. There you can buy the restaurants’ candles, glasses and plates – which include pottery by Felicity Jones Ceramics, who stamps flowers into her work. Gardening tools are also for sale. In keeping with the verdant spirit, the shop is also laid out in a green space with plants and chandeliers, making it feel like a magical garden. No doubt these two new restaurants will continue to grow with branches elsewhere and in popularity, just like the original Richmond venue. Floral Court, WC2E 8JD. T: 020-7305 7676. www.petershamnurseries.com
IMAGES COURTESY OF PETERSHAM NURSERIES
Since putting down roots in Covent Garden last year, gardening hub Petersham Nurseries is blooming – and now the branch has opened two restaurants that are set to be just as popular as the shop and florist, says Sarah Riches
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T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (‘Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. B (breakfast), L (lunch), D (dinner). Prices per person for three courses: £: up to £25; ££: £25-£40; £££: £40-80; ££££: £80+. References (A1; B5 etc.) refer to the map on p. 80-81
AMERICAS (NORTH & SOUTH) Gaucho Excellent choice for succulent Argentine steaks, with a wine bar, supper lounge and terrace. ££££. Daily L & D (and branches). www.gaucho restaurants.co.uk. 25 Swallow St, W1B 4QR. T: 0207734 4040. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Goodman New York steakhouse with quality US and British beef, dry-aged in-house, plus dishes including whole-roasted poussin. ££££. Mon-Sat L & D. www. goodmanrestaurants.com. 24-26 Maddox St, W1S 1QH. T: 020-7499 3776. E6. Station: Oxford Circus.
Hard Rock Cafe London’s legendary burger joint, with rock memorabilia and a fun vibe. Enjoy jumbo wings, nachos and hickory-smoked ribs. ££. Daily L & D. www.hardrock.com. 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1LB. T: 020-7514 1700. E8. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Oblix Sophisticated rotisserie, serving dishes from the grill and wood-fired oven, plus stunning views from the Shard. £££. Daily L & D. www.oblixrestaurant.com. Level 32, The Shard, 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-7268 6700. E10. Station: London Bridge.
Planet Hollywood Hollywood-inspired dining experience with movie memorabilia and an international menu. Daily L & D (bar to 1am). ££. www.planethollywood london.com. 57-60 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QX. T: 020-7287 1000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
The Montague
Cheneston’s
This brasserie offers seasonal dishes and weekend brunch. ££. Hyatt Regency London – The Churchill, 30 Portman Square, W1H 7BH. T: 020-7299 2037. www.londonchurchill.regency.hyatt.com. D5. Station: Marble Arch.
Sample British cuisine in a classic dining room, with dishes such as pan-seared venison and pot roast Dover sole. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.milestonehotel.com. The Milestone Hotel, 1 Kensington Court, W8 5DL. T: 020-7917 1000. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.
Rex Whistler Restaurant Dine on dishes such as seafood bisque and try an excellent wine list in a dining room with a whimsical, century-old mural. ££. Daily L. www.tate.org.uk. Tate Britain, Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8825. G8. Station: Pimlico.
St Pancras Brasserie All-day British brasserie-style dishes in an ornate dining room. ££-£££. Daily B, L & D. www.searcys stpancras.co.uk. Upper Concourse, St. Pancras Station, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.
BRITISH (TRADITIONAL) Butlers Restaurant Enjoy top English cuisine in an elegant Mayfair restaurant, known for its Dover sole. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.chesterfieldmayfair.com. 35 Charles St, W1J 5EB. T: 020-7491 2622. E6. Station: Green Park.
Café in the Crypt Underneath the church, this café serves goodvalue English dishes. £. Mon-Sat B, L & D, Sun 11am-6pm. www.smitf.org. St Martin-in-the-Fields, corner and courtyard of Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1158. D7. Station: Charing Cross.
The English Grill This hotel restaurant features ornate chandeliers and high ceilings and serves excellent grilled meats. ££££. Daily B, L, D. www.rubenshotel.com. The Rubens at the Palace, 39 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PS. T: 020-7834 6600. F6. Station: Victoria.
The Ritz Restaurant Enjoy superb cuisine in this dining room, including tasting menus from chef John Williams. Men must wear a jacket and tie. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.the ritzlondon.com. The Ritz, 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7300 2370. E6/7. Station: Green Park.
CHINESE Bright Courtyard Club Choose from a huge selection of Cantonese and Shanghai dishes, including lobster with noodles and Peking duck, in a sleek setting. £££. Daily L & D. www.brightcourtyard.co.uk. 43-45 Baker St, W1U 8EW. T: 020-7486 6998. D6. Station: Baker Street.
Chai Wu Located on the fifth floor of Harrods, this contemporary restaurant serves dishes such as shredded Wagyu beef and Chilean sea bass. ££££.
JW Steakhouse Top-quality steakhouse offering dry-aged American USDA prime beef. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.jwsteakhouse.co.uk. Grosvenor House Hotel, 86 Park Lane, W1K 7TL. T: 020-7399 8460. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
BRITISH (MODERN) Aqua Shard
Contemporary cuisine and fantastic views at this slick restaurant on the Shard’s 31st floor. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.aquashard.co.uk. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-3011 1256. E10. Station: London Bridge.
Caxton Grill
Fera at Claridge’s Art Deco restaurant serving local, organic and British dishes including halibut with black truffle. ££££. Daily L & D. www.claridges.co.uk. Claridge’s Hotel, Brook St, W1K 4HR. T: 020-7107 8888. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Great Court Restaurant Enjoy lunch or afternoon tea above the museum’s iconic Reading Room, under the domed roof. ££. Daily L; Fri D. www.britishmuseum.org. British Museum, Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8990. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Holborn.
See the light A grand 19th-century staircase leads up to The Terrace, the all-day conservatory dining room in the four-star Amba Hotel Charing Cross (p. 68). Dating back to 1865, the hotel restaurant features floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the Strand, which flood the room with light. Arches decorated with elaborate plasterwork lead into a bar lit with chandeliers. The menu offers sharing plates and generous-sized sandwiches and salads, burgers, pizzas, grilled meats and fish. Try a royal afternoon tea this month, served on beautiful floral porcelain. On Wednesday and Thursday evenings, you can also sit at the marble-top counter, sip a drink or two and listen to a jazz band.
THE TERRACE © IDEAL INSIGHT
Superb selection of steaks cooked in the Josper grill, plus seafood dishes such as lobster with Hollandaise. There’s also a bar and terrace. ££££. Daily L & D. www.caxtongrill.co.uk. 2 Caxton St, SW1H 0QW. T: 020-7227 7777. F7. Station: St James’s Park.
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THREE OF THE VERY BEST INDIAN RESTAUR ANTS This award winning sophisticated Indian Grill offers intense flavours with an innovative twist, in a theatrical open kitchen setting. Michelin star. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Halkin Arcade, Motcomb Street Knightsbridge, London SW1X 8JT T: 020 7823 1166 E: info@amaya.biz Private dining room seats 14
The rich setting, interesting art and romantic candle lighting are secondary details in London’s haven of great Indian contemporary food. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week; weekend brunch with live music. 73 St James’s Street, London SW1A 1PH T: 020 7629 6688 E: info@chutneymary.com Two private dining rooms seat 30 and 16
Classical dishes, lovingly prepared and beautifully served in sumptuous surroundings overlooking Regent Street. The oldest Indian restaurant in the world has a Michelin star. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 1st floor 99 Regent Street, London W1B 4RS T: 020 7734 1401 E: info@veeraswamy.com Private dining room seats 24
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FRENCH Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester Exquisite food, attentive service and a setting to dress up for from this three-Michelin-starred chef. ££££. Tue-Fri L & D; Sat D. Advance booking essential. www.alainducasse-dorchester.com. The Dorchester, Park Lane, W1K 1QA. T: 020-7629 8866. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Brasserie Joël This excellent French brasserie serves classics such as tuna tartare and beef bourguignon. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L & D; daily D. www.brasseriejoel. co.uk. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7272. F8. Station: Waterloo/Westminster.
Brasserie Zédel
Founded in Lebanon in 1997, Abd el Wahab is named after a street in Beirut and the chain is a hit across the Middle East. The new London branch in Chelsea has a terrace and a light-filled dining room (thanks to its skylight), allowing for a ‘living wall’ of plants set against a muted grey palette. Sharing starter dishes include kibbeh – croquettes made from minced lamb and bulgur wheat – and the smoky aubergine dip mouttabal; once you’ve tried it, you’ll never want to go back to hummus. Save space for mains including kebabs, prawns and leg of lamb cooked for 10 hours. There’s a Lebanese wine list, too. 1 Pont St, SW1X 9EJ. T: 020-7235 1100. www.ghiaholding.com. F5. Station: Sloane Street/Knightsbridge Daily L; Mon-Sat D (until 8pm). www.chaiwu.co.uk. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-3819 8888. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.
Hakkasan Fashionable Michelin-starred restaurant with stunning decor, serving modern Cantonese dishes such as Peking duck with caviar. ££££. Daily L & D; Thur-Sat to midnight. www.hakkasan.com. 8 Hanway Place, W1T 1HF (and Mayfair branch). T: 020-7927 7000. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Kai Mayfair Superior Michelin-starred cuisine in an elegant setting, with dishes such as Kagoshima Wagyu beef, and Nanyang chilli lobster. Highly recommended. ££££. Daily L & D. www.kaimayfair. co.uk. 65 South Audley St, W1K 2QU. T: 020-7493 8988. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN 1 Lombard Street Mouthwatering selection of hearty, modern cooking in this brasserie, a former bank with a huge glass dome. £££. Mon-Fri B, L & D. www.1lombardstreet.com. 1 Lombard St, EC3V 9AA. T: 020-7929 6611. D10. Station: Bank.
Galvin at Windows Michelin-starred restaurant serving modern haute cuisine from the Galvin Brothers. Booking essential; smart dress. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L; Mon-Sat D. www.galvinatwindows.com. Hilton on Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208 4021. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
The Ivy A firm favourite on London’s dining scene, and loved by celebrities, this stylish restaurant is perfect for a pre- or post-theatre dinner. £££-££££. Daily L & D (last orders midnight). www.the-ivy.co. uk. 1-5 West St, WC2H 9NQ. T: 020-7836 4751. D7. Station: Leicester Square.
Savini at Criterion Enjoy fine-dining Italian dishes at this neo-Byzantine dining room inside a Grade II-listed building. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.saviniatcriterion.co.uk. 224 Piccadilly, Piccadilly Circus, W1J 9HP. T: 020-7930 1459. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Ting Located on level 35 of The Shard, this superb restaurant serves European dishes with an Asian influence, plus panoramic views. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.shangri-la.com/london. Shangri-La, The Shard, 31 St. Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8108. F10. Station: London Bridge.
FISH AND SEAFOOD Fancy Crab Sample dishes including crab bisque, crab fettucine and a crab burger with a side of crab. £££. Daily L & D. www.fancycrab.co.uk. 92 Wigmore St, W1U 3RD. T: 020-3096 9484. D6. Station: Bond Street.
J. Sheekey Seafood and oyster restaurant with a Champagne bar loved by celebrities. ££££. Daily L & D. www.jsheekey.co.uk. 28-35 St. Martin’s Court, WC2N 4AL. T: 020-7240 2565. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Céleste Michelin-starred French cuisine in a smart dining room. Try the Atlantic sea bass topped with seaweed crust. £££-££££. Daily B, L & D. www.lanesborough.com. The Lanesborough, Hyde Park Corner, SW1X 7TA. T: 020-7259 5599. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
GASTROPUBS The Eagle One of London’s first gastropubs, this rustic venue offers superior dishes such as roast pork belly and grilled scallops, changing daily. £££. Mon-Sat L & D; Sun L. www.theeaglefarringdon. co.uk. 159 Farringdon Rd, EC1R 3AL. T: 020-7837 1353. D9. Station: Farringdon.
The Wells This bright and airy pub near Hampstead Heath serves top-quality, seasonal British cuisine in a friendly, sophisticated environment. £££. Daily L & D. www.thewellshampstead.co.uk. 30 Well Walk, NW3 1BX. T: 020-7794 3785. Off map. Station: Hampstead.
The Wigmore Enjoy unusual dishes and bar snacks from a menu created by Michel Roux Jr, in a refurbished bar with high ceilings and original Art Deco features. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.the-wigmore.co.uk. 15 Langham Place, Regent St, W1B 3DE. T: 020-7965 0198. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
INDIAN Amaya The Michelin-starred cuisine here is full of exotic twists on Indian dishes, with an open-grill kitchen. £££. Daily L & D. www.amaya.biz. Halkin Arcade, Motcomb St, SW1X 8JT. T: 020-7823 1166. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.
Benares The Michelin-starred chef Atul Kochhar creates sophisticated modern Indian cuisine in his refined restaurant, with a delicious tasting menu and a cocktail lounge. ££££. Mon-Sat L & D; Sun D. www.benaresrestaurant.com. 12a Berkeley Square House, Berkeley Square, W1J 6BS. T: 020-7629 8886. E6. Station: Green Park.
ABD EL WAHAB © ELIE ABI HANNA
A taste of the Levant
This bustling French brasserie and bar is set within a grand dining room with a high ceiling. Its set menu is excellent value. £-££. Daily L & D. www.brasseriezedel.com. 20 Sherwood St, W1F 7ED. T: 020-7734 4888. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
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WHERE PARTNERSHIP: IN ASSOCIATION WITH AFTERNOONTEA.CO.UK
Time for tea
ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF THE VENUE
London is famous for its afternoon tea – here’s our round-up of this month’s best. For more information, visit afternoontea.co.uk
INTERCONTINENTAL LONDON
ST ERMIN’S HOTEL
THE YACHT LONDON
This five-star hotel next to The O2 has united with The East India Company to create the East Meridian Afternoon Tea (to 30 Jun). The tea pays homage to the area’s trading history and has ingredients that arrived into London’s docks in the 18th century. You can also enjoy it on the outdoor terrace, which has river views. Enjoy treats including Bombay chai, scones with Cornish clotted cream and beetroot sandwiches made with gin-cured salmon. One Hamilton Place, Park Lane, W1J 7QY. T: 020-7409 313. www.gofortea.com/intercontinental
After a stroll in St James’s Park, while away the rest of your day in the Tea Lounge and Library of St Ermin’s Hotel. Tuck into sandwiches, plain and fruit scones with clotted cream and jam, and sweet treats including a white chocolate and carrot choux bun, lemon macaron, chocolate and salted caramel pot. Sip Newby teas served from hand-painted teapots, or opt for unlimited Prosecco for £35 – bargain! The hotel also offers a mini gardener tea for children. 2 Caxton St, SW1H 0QW. T: 020-7222 7888. www.gofortea.com/stermins
Board The Yacht London’s nautical-themed boat behind Somerset House for a river cruise and Gin Afternoon Tea Party. The boat’s Art Deco cocktail lounge is decorated with mirrors, while the dining room features floor-to-ceiling windows. Tuck into sandwiches, a cheese and spring vegetable quiche, baked scones, pastries and cakes – including a box of macarons decorated with petals and starfruit. Enjoy the view and sip tea, herbal infusions and a Hendrick’s Gin cocktail. Temple Pier, WC2R 2PN. T: 020-7836 1566. www.gofortea.com/theyacht
108 PANTRY
THE MONTAGUE ON THE GARDENS
THE SWAN
108 Pantry might be in an Edwardian townhouse in Marylebone, but opt for its new English country garden tea and you’ll feel as if you’re in the country. The menu opens with a poem about gardens. A board decked with grass and flowers, terracotta pots and spade-shaped cutlery comes with Dorset crab sandwiches, orange blossom scones with rhubarb jam, lavender panna cotta, rose cake and elderflower and strawberry Battenberg cake. The tea is from The Rare Tea Company. 108 Marylebone Lane, W1U 2QE. T: 0207969 3900. www.gofortea.com/marylebone
For something different, opt for the new safari tea at The Leopard Bar in The Montague on the Gardens, a Georgian townhouse near The British Museum. The bar features leopard-print wallpaper and pictures of animals. Try Africanspiced chicken and apricot sandwiches, a mango and kiwi tart and red bush tea. Leave space for the cocktail that’s decorated with leopard spots and garnished with an edible paw print. Van Morrison’s saxophonist, Martin Winning, plays jazz on Wednesday and Thursday evening. 15 Montague St, WC1B 5BJ. T: 020-7958 7731. www.gofortea.com/montague
The tea at The Swan at Shakespeare’s Globe is inspired by A Midsummer Night’s Dream. Sink your teeth into wild mushroom and leek quiche, mulberry scones with berry jam, rose-infused raspberry mousse and elderflower and violet macarons. Dine from crockery featuring Annika Wester illustrations, as you watch boats chug up the Thames and sip a love-potion cocktail made with Earl Grey vodka, Prosecco, local honey, blackberry puree and blackberries. After all, how often are you in London? 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7928 9444. www.gofortea.com/theswan
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ENJOY THE THALI AT
REAL INDIAN FOOD
Chutney Mary Enjoy a gourmet tour of seven Indian regions in this elegant restaurant, recently relocated, including the Pukka bar. £££. Daily L & D. www.chutneymary. com. 73 St James’s St, SW1 1PH. T: 020-7629 6688. E7. Station: Green Park.
Gaylord Iconic Indian restaurant, more than 50 years old, serving North Indian plates including sheekh kebabs and Mughal dishes. ££. Daily L & D. www.gaylordlondon.com. 79-81 Mortimer St, W1W 7SJ. T: 020-7580 3615. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
Indian Accent Manish Mehrotra is regularly voted one of India’s best chefs, and now he’s opened the first London branch of his New Delhi restaurant. Mon-Sat L & D. £££. 16 Albemarle St, W1S 4HW. T: 020-7629 9802. www.indianaccent.com. E7. Station: Green Park.
Masala Zone In this vibrant restaurant, recently refurbished, enjoy tasty Indian street food, traditional thalis and regional curries. ££. Daily L & D (and branches). www.masalazone.com. 9 Marshall St, W1F 7ER. T: 020-7287 9966. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
Mint Leaf BAYSWATER, 75 BISHOPS BRIDGE RD COVENT GARDEN, 48 FLORAL ST SELFRIDGES 4TH FL, 400 OXFORD ST EARLS COURT, 147 EARLS COURT ROAD
CAMDEN, 25 PARKWAY ISLINGTON, 80 UPPER ST SOHO, 9 MARSHALL ST
MASA LA ZO N E .CO M
Contemporary Indian dishes are served in this stylish restaurant. Try the venison pepper roast. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L; daily D. www.mintleaflondon.com. Suffolk Place, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HX. T: 020-7930 9020. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Tamarind In the smart Mayfair dining room, enjoy Michelinstarred Mughal and North West Frontier cuisine, including lobster masala. £££. Daily L & D. www.tamarindrestaurant.com. 20 Queen St, W1J 5PR. T: 020-7629 3561. E6. Station: Green Park.
Veeraswamy The UK’s oldest Indian restaurant, Michelin-starred, has an opulent interior, with dishes such as six hour cooked lamb shank. £££. Daily L & D. www.veera swamy.com. Victory House, 99 Regent St, W1B 4RS. T: 020-7734 1401. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
THE CURRY ROOM An authentic journey of discovery blending Indian and African influences The English Gri
INTERNATIONAL Bbar Enjoy quality meat at this relaxed restaurant and bar, with 28-day-aged beef and fried hake. ££. Daily L & D. www.bbarlondon.com. 43 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7958 7000. F6. Station: Victoria.
The Cavendish This brasserie serves hearty mains such as lemon veal scallopini. ££-£££. Daily B, L & D. www.35new cavendish.co.uk. 35 New Cavendish St, W1G 9TR. T: 020-7487 3030. C5. Station: Baker Street.
The Terrace With an opulent decor, this 150-year-old hotel restaurant and bar serves salads, burgers and Italian dishes (p. 64). ££. Daily B, L & D. www.amba-hotel. com. Amba Hotel Charing Cross, The Strand, WC2N 5HX. T: 0800-330 8397. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
ITALIAN The Rubens at The Palace
39 Buckingham Palace Road, London, SW1W 0PS Telephone: +44 (0)20 7834 6600 | rubenshotel.com
Ask Italian Huge menu and outdoor seating at this friendly spot, with fresh pasta. Daily L & D. ££. 41-43 Spring St, W2 1JA (and branches). T: 020-8115 7091. www.askitalian.co.uk. D4. Station: Paddington.
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PROMOTIONAL FEATURE | WHERE LONDON
SUMMER
IN THE CITY After a new take on Indian cooking? London’s oldest Indian restaurant, Veeraswamy, hosts a Seafood Showcase, which provides a fresh taste of summer eating. Jennifer Sharp books a table
YZ
IMAGES © ANCA BONTEA
I
f you love Indian food, you are in the right city. London offers restaurants that are authentic and excitingly modern. One top gourmet destination is Veeraswamy, the capital’s oldest Indian restaurant – founded in 1926, it has a glowing reputation and has been awarded a Michelin star. It never stands still and is always as fresh and inviting as the vibrant city itself. This month, Veeraswamy hosts its Seafood Showcase with dishes from coastal states of southern India. It is a rare opportunity to try this light, delicious cooking, perfect for warm weather. Situated on the first floor of a grand building on Regent Street, Veeraswamy is a spacious, airy room bathed in natural light. The interior mixes luxury and historic detail with grand chandeliers, colourful lights, pierced screens, chic furniture and a cosy cocktail bar. Look out for the witty assembly of
decorative traditional turbans, which brighten up the restaurant. The menu evolves to update classic dishes and reflect changing tastes for lighter and healthier food. Seafood Showcase ticks all the boxes and will probably tempt you back for a second visit. Start with a selection of baked oysters in a fragrant sauce of tandoori spices, mellow Kashmiri chilli and turmeric under a crisp gratiné topping. Seafood moilee is a fish curry with red mullet, prawns and mussels in a rich coconut-based sauce enlivened with tamarind and curry leaf. Subtly flavoured bhapa maach from Kolkata is sea bass marinated with yoghurt and Bengal limes, steamed in banana leaves and served with ribbons of cucumber. More assertive flavours are found in lobster curry from the Malabar coast with
coconut and green mango or the rice-led biryani from Kerala with prawns, cashew nuts, saffron, sultanas and mint. Finally, don’t miss the pineapple curry with mustard seeds, coconut sauce and punchy green chillis. Unmissable desserts include superglamorous chocolate ganache with chilli and lime crème topped with gold leaf, or refreshing coconut and lemongrass panna cotta with fruit salsa. The full menu at Veeraswamy is available during the Seafood Showcase and you can try meat-based royal heritage dishes such as Patiala raan (slow-cooked lamb) or the legendary rogan josh from Kashmir. Diners are often puzzled by what to drink with Indian food, but this isn’t a problem here. There are imaginative cocktails alongside a superb wine list, with many available by the glass. White wines include Chablis, Albariño and Gewürztraminer plus on-trend organic Fiano from Italy, while reds wines range from Spain, Italy, the New World and fine wine makers in France. Your taste of India awaits. Veeraswamy, Victory House, 99 Regent St, W1B 4RS. T: 020-7734 1401. www.veeraswamy.com www.wheretraveler.com 69
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DINING Cicchetti All-day dining venue with Italy’s regional specialities, from antipasti and cured meats to seafood dishes. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.sancarlocicchetti.co.uk. 30 Wellington St, WC2E 7BD (and Piccadilly branch). T: 020-7494 9435. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Savini at Criterion Enjoy fine-dining Italian dishes in an opulent neo-Byzantine dining room inside a Grade II-listed building. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.saviniat criterion.co.uk. 224 Piccadilly, W1J 9HP. T: 020-7930 1459. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Verdi Italian Kitchen Dine on stone-baked pizzas or afternoon tea in the famous music venue. ££. Tue-Sun L & D. www.verdiitalian.com. Door 12, Royal Albert Hall, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7070 4401. F4. Station: South Kensington.
JAPANESE & KOREAN Benihana Chefs create griddle-cooked dishes at your table for a theatrical experience. Try the Wagyu beef and hibachi prawn. £££. Daily L & D. www.benihana.co.uk. 37 Sackville St, W1S 3EH (and branches). T: 020-7494 2525. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Engawa This traditional Japanese restaurant, set in a quiet courtyard, has tasting menus, plus excellent Kobe beef in different cuts. ££££. Daily L & D. www.engawa.uk. 2 Ham Yard, W1D 7DT. T: 020-7287 5724. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
MIDDLE EASTERN, GREEK & TURKISH Momo Decadent candlelit restaurant with authentic Moroccan decor, serving mezze mains such as duck couscous and lamb tagine. £££. Daily L & D. www.momoresto.com. 25 Heddon St, W1B 4BH. T: 020-7434 4040. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Nopi Middle Eastern-inspired food from Yotam Ottolenghi with an informal communal area plus dining room above. ££-£££. Daily B & L; Mon-Sat D. www.nopi-restaurant.com. 21-22 Warwick St, W1B 5NE. T: 020-7494 9584. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Yosma Turkish cuisine in the heart of London at this bright, informal restaurant, with imaginative mezze, plus fish and meat dishes from the Josper grill. £££. Daily L & D. www.yosma.london. 50 Baker St, W1U 7BT. T: 020-3019 6282. D6. Station: Baker Street.
RIVERSIDE Bateaux London See London’s sights on a river cruise while enjoying modern British cuisine. £££. Daily L & D cruises. www.bateauxlondon.com. Embankment Pier, WC2N 6NU. T: 020-7695 1800. E8. Station: Embankment.
R.S. Hispaniola Delightful moored restaurant boat on the Thames serving British cuisine. £££. Daily L & D. www.hispaniola.co.uk. Victoria Embankment/ Hungerford Bridge, WC2N 5DJ. T: 020-7839 3011. E8. Station: Embankment.
SOUTH EAST ASIAN Chi Kitchen Enjoy pan-Asian cuisine in Debenhams store, and see the chefs at work in an open-plan kitchen. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.chikitchen.co.uk. 334-348 Oxford St, W1C 1JG. T: 020-3841 6888. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
Mango Tree Fine dining restaurant near Buckingham Palace offers authentic Thai dishes, such as tom ka and grilled Wagyu beef in spicy sauce. £££. Daily L & D. www.mangotree.org.uk. 46 Grosvenor Place, SW1X 7EQ. T: 020-7823 1888. F6. Station: Victoria.
Thai Pot This popular spot offers a huge range of goodvalue, authentic Thai dishes, including stir-fried beef and Massaman curry. £. Mon-Sat L & D. www.thaipot.biz. 1 Bedfordbury, WC2N 4BP. T: 020-7379 4580. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
SPANISH
The London Showboat
El Pirata
Dining cruises including two-course L, afternoon tea, and dinner with live jazz. £££-££££. Booking needed. www.citycruises.com. Westminster Pier, SW1A 2JR. T: 020-7740 0400. F8. Station: Westminster.
Choose from a large range of authentic, hot and cold tapas in this Mayfair bar-restaurant, including cured meats and fresh seafood. There are good set menus. ££-£££. Mon-Fri L & D; Sat D. www.elpirata. co.uk. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AG. T: 020-7491 3810. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Moro North Africa meets Spain in this revered Moorish restaurant, serving dishes such as wood-roasted chicken with sage labneh. £££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D. www.moro.co.uk. 34-36 Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QE. T: 020-7833 8336. Off map. Station: Farringdon.
VEGETARIAN The Gate Middle Eastern influences here, with dishes such as tofu tikka and couscous fritters. ££. Daily L & D; Sat & Sun B. www.thegaterestaurants.com. 22-24 Seymour Place, W1H 7NL (and branches). T: 020-7724 6656. D5. Station: Marble Arch. This informal Soho institution has hearty dishes, such as wild mushroom and ale pie, and mock duck. ££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.mildreds.co.uk. 45 Lexington St, W1F 9AN (and branches). T: 020-7494 1634. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
Ahead of its time It’s high time you tried high tea at The Chelsea Harbour Hotel, especially its new Travel Through Time offering. For a buzzy atmosphere, sit in the Chelsea Riverside Brasserie, which has a balcony, or opt for the more peaceful adjacent bar – both options have harbour views. The afternoon tea arrives in a cloud of dry ice, with scones served warm with homemade raspberry jam, and sandwiches and sweets inspired by historical tales. Resist the chocolate cake in favour of caramel mousse and lemon tart. Chelsea Harbour, SW10 0XG. T: 020-7823 3000. www.millenniumhotels.com. Off map. Station: Imperial Wharf
Tibits Enjoy dozens of dishes, buffet-style, at this relaxed restaurant-bar. Choose from fresh salads, hot dishes and healthy puddings and pay by plate weight. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.tibits.co.uk. 12-14 Heddon St, off Regent St, W1B 4DA. T: 020-7758 4112. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Woodlands Well-flavoured cuisine from throughout India, from authentic street food to dosas and thalis. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.woodlandsrestaurant.co.uk. 77 Marylebone Lane, W1U 2PS (and branches). T: 020-7486 3862. D6. Station: Bond Street.
CHELSEA HARBOUR HOTEL COURTESY OF CHELSEA HARBOUR HOTEL
Mildreds
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W H E R E
L O N D O N
P R O M O T I O N
BEST OF LONDON DINING Little India One of the few Indian restaurants owned and managed by a woman. Why not come and try our signature dish ‘Naga Chicken’ – cooked in spices and a naga chilli and tossed dry. As well as this, we pride ourselves in traditional home-style cooking. Come and enjoy a truly unique and memorable dining experience whilst indulging yourself in the real taste of fine Indian cuisine. Open seven days a week – Monday to Saturday, noon-11.30pm and Sunday noon-11pm. Dinner reservations are strongly recommended as Little India is really little! Perfectly located near the Royal Albert Hall, Harrods, Kensington Palace and the Natural History Museum.
El Pirata
32 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 020-7584 3476/020-7589 9315 www.littleindialondon.com. Station: Gloucester Road
For more than 20 years, El Pirata has hit the spot as London’s top restaurant for traditional Spanish tapas. Located in the heart of Mayfair, it’s the perfect place for a true taste of the Mediterranean in a chic yet friendly setting. It’s informal, inexpensive and, above all, authentic – the restaurant uses the finest Spanish produce, including jamón Ibérico, to create its classic dishes. Celebrity fans include Brian May and Johnny Depp, and food critics are unanimous in their praise, describing it as a ‘Spanish gem’ (Zagat) with ‘surprisingly good prices’ (Harden’s), and ‘a favourite with Mayfair’s Spanish community and converts to the new Iberian cause’ (Square Meal ). Mon-Fri noon-11.30pm; Sat 6pm-11.30pm; closed Sun.
5-6 Down St, W1J 7AQ. T: 020-7491 3810/020-7409 1315. www.elpirata.co.uk. Station: Hyde Park Corner/Green Park
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NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE
Play that funky music Song requests, a live band and dancing until the early hours... Sarah Riches discovers the delights of the new Studio 88 At Studio 88 you’ll be hard-pressed not to have a brilliant night out. The recently opened live music venue sees a six-piece band, comprising two pianists, a drummer, guitarist, bassist and horn player, play music requested by the audience. The band rotates more than 50 musicians, so no two nights are the same. They can play nearly anything, so test them – and tip them if you want your song to skip the queue. Studio 88 is modelled on its sister venue The Piano Works, also a spot for live music and a hit in Farringdon. With its warehouselike decor, the Piano Works is popular with an after-work crowd, and 20-somethings who request songs on sheet music printed on napkins. Studio 88, meanwhile, draws visitors of all ages; the name is inspired by the 88 keys on a piano keyboard. Founder and director Alan Lorrimer says: ‘With the number of London’s live music venues in decline – 50 have shut their doors for good since 2007 – we are delighted to open our second live music
venue in the capital. We want to play our part in ensuring London continues to provide a world-class music offering.’ Studio 88 is underground, but don’t let that fool you into thinking it’s compact: it fits 400 standing – or dancing. The venue looks the part, as the Olivier Award-winning lighting designer, Mike Robertson, has inlaid the walls, bench seating and low tables with geometric LED lights and infinity mirrors that respond to the band’s melodies, so that they flash in time to the beat. The bar’s menu is inspired by recording and filming studios such as Abbey Road. Try the Pinewood Studios, which is the home of James Bond films. The cocktail is made with Martini and served shaken not stirred (of course). The Universal Studios, named after the film studio that produced Jaws, is a cocktail made with blue curaçao and edible pearl glitter. When it comes to London nightlife, it seems that piano bars are music to our ears. 47 Whitcomb St, WC2H 7DH. T: 020-7889 1966. www.studio88.bar
Keys to life
MEGARO’S PIANO BAR Part speakeasy cocktail lounge, part New York dive bar, Megaro’s Piano Bar beneath The Megaro hotel, by King’s Cross St Pancras station, is adorned with red velvet curtains and is suitably low-lit – perfect for a torchlit or smoking cocktail. Its showpiece, however, is a neon glass-top grand piano. Every Thursday and Friday, a live band, singers and guest performers on the guitar, keyboard and tambourine cook up a storm of jazz and blues, 80s power ballads and pop. We’ll drink to that. Belgrove St, WC1H 8AG. T: 020-7843 2222 www.themegaro.co.uk.
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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM
Most bars open 11am-11pm, most nightclubs open 10pm-3am. The UK’s legal drinking age is 18. ID may be required. T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, Railway and Docklands Light Railway. References (A1 etc.) refer to coordinates on map (p. 80-81)
TRADITIONAL PUBS The Blackfriar This Grade II-listed Art Nouveau pub, which opened 100 years ago, offers traditional cask ales. www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk. 174 Queen Victoria St, EC4V 4EG. T: 020-7236 5474. E9. Station: Blackfriars.
Cittie of Yorke The dark nooks and crannies, rafted roof and chimney-less fire in this Grade II-listed building take you back to 1430. Enjoy a pint in this traditional pub for a real taste of historic London. 22 High Holborn, WC1V 6BN. T: 020-7242 7670. D9. Station: Chancery Lane.
The Dog and Duck A real-ale pub with regularly changing cask beers as well as pub food and bar snacks. www.nicholsons pubs.co.uk. 18 Bateman St, W1D 3AJ. T: 020-7494 0697. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
The Flask This 17th-century pub boasts Byron and Shelley as past patrons and is allegedly haunted. www.the flaskhighgate.com. 77 Highgate West Hill, N6 6BU. T: 020-8348 7346. Off map. Station: Highgate.
The French House Creative types love this quirky, cosy pub in the heart of Soho – there is no music. www.french housesoho.com. 49 Dean St, W1D 5BG. T: 0207437 2477. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Waxy O’Connor’s
The Back Room
Long-standing Irish bar, with four bars over six levels. It has regular live music, and also screens Ireland’s major sporting events. www.waxy oconnors.co.uk. 14-16 Rupert St, W1D 6DD. T: 020-7287 0255. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Located next to Hard Rock Cafe, the bar boasts vintage and iconic music items, including a door from the Apple Studios signed by The Beatles. Enjoy cocktails, pizzas, burgers and a great vibe. www.hardrock.com. 148b Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 020-7514 1700. E6. Station: Green Park.
Waxy’s Little Sister A smaller, slightly quieter sister venue of the huge Waxy’s, which has traditional Irish beers and whiskies, and also great bar food. www.waxy oconnors.co.uk. 20 Wardour St, W1D 6QG. T: 020-7287 0255. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese This Grade II-listed pub was built soon after the Great Fire of 1666, and has vaults which are even older than that. Enjoy a pint of English ale and dine on a range of simple pub food. 145 Fleet St, EC4A 2BU. T: 020-7353 6170. D9. Station: Blackfriars.
BARS & CLUBS 68 and Boston Sophisticated venue with separate cocktail and wine bars. Expect wines from unusual destinations, including Uruguay, with all bottles at just £20. www.68andboston.com. 5 Greek St, W1D 4DD. T: 020-7287 3713. D7. Station: Leicester Square.
Booking Office Bar The ground floor of the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel has a 29m-long bar, surrounded by cavernous arched ceilings and stone walls dating back to 1873. There’s also a good menu of bar snacks. www.bookingofficebar.com. Euston Rd, NW1 2AR. T: 020-7841 3566. C7. Station: King’s Cross.
Burlock Rum is definitely the spirit of choice here, in a relaxed bar that specialises in many types of cocktails using the Caribbean drink and unusual ingredients. www.burlocklondon.co.uk. 31 Duke St, W1U 1LG. T: 020-7935 3303. D6. Station: Bond Street.
BYOC At ‘Bring Your Own Cocktail’, pay £30, bring a spirit of your choice and the mixologist will create cocktails for you. Booking is recommended. www.byoc.co.uk. 9-11 Basement, Camden High St, NW1 7JE (and branches). T: 020-3441 2424. Off map. Station: Mornington Crescent.
The George Inn This historic pub was established during the medieval period and still retains its original coaching houses. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ george-inn. 75-77 Borough High St, SE1 1NH. T: 020-7407 2056. E10. Station: London Bridge.
The Glasshouse Stores This is a comforting old Sam Smith’s pub, with wood-panelled walls and etched glass. There are plenty of nooks and crannies in which to hide away, making it a romantic spot. The beers and food are good. 55 Brewer St, W1F 9UJ. T: 020-7287 5278. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
STUDIO 88 COURTESY OF STUDIO 88; MEGARO’S PIANO BAR COURTESY OF MEGARO’S PIANO BAR; THE CORAL ROOM COURTESY OF THE CORAL ROOM
The Guinea The site of an inn since 1423, this friendly venue has great Young’s ales and bar food, including steak pies. www.theguinea.co.uk. 30 Bruton Place, W1J 6NL. T: 020-7409 1728. E6. Station: Bond Street/Oxford Circus.
The Magpie & Stump Opposite the Old Bailey, the pub dates back to the 1500s and once doubled up as a public viewing spot for hangings at Newgate Prison. www.magpieandstump.com. 18 Old Bailey, EC4M 7EP. T: 020-7248 5085. B8. Station: St Paul’s.
The Punchbowl This popular Mayfair pub-restaurant offers a variety of ales in its unique, classy surroundings. www.punchbowllondon.com. 41 Farm St, W1J 5RP. T: 020-7493 6841. E6. Station: Green Park.
The Spaniards Inn Follow in the footsteps of past regulars, including Dick Turpin and Charles Dickens, at this pub – one of the oldest in London. Its Sunday roast and pies are popular – booking is advisable. www.the spaniardshampstead.co.uk. Spaniard’s Rd, NW3 7JJ. T: 020-8731 8406. Off map. Station: Hampstead.
Tickled pink Looking for a cocktail bar off Tottenham Court Road? Then step into The Coral Room in The Bloomsbury, a Grade-II listed hotel designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens. Tall ceilings show off enormous palms, Murano-glass chandeliers, bespoke drawings by a British illustrator and, of course, coral-coloured walls, making it feel like a 1920s boudoir. You have Martin Brudnizki to thank for its interior, and manager Giovanni Spezziga – formerly of Scarfes Bar at the Rosewood London – for its vibe. Sit at the marbletopped bar or sink into Art Deco velvet sofas to sip English sparkling wine. The venue serves small plates – try the smoked salmon and crème fraîche on Guinness bread. Live funk and soul music is played at weekends and there’s a leafy cigar terrace. 16 Great Russell St, WC1B 3NN. T: 020-7347 1221. www.thecoralroom.co.uk. D7. Station: Russell Square
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NIGHTLIFE Cartizze Bar
Looking Glass Cocktail Club
St Pancras Champagne Bar
Cocktail destination in Mayfair majoring in timeless luxury, known for its Bellinis, with elegant Art Deco surroundings and bar food including oysters. www.cartizzebar.com. 4 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Enter a giant glass into a dimly-lit room decorated with Louis XVI-inspired furniture. This speakeasy has regular DJs, live music and performances. 49 Hackney Rd, E2 7NX. T: 020-7613 3936. www.lookingglasslondon.co.uk. Off map. Station: Hoxton.
Europe’s longest Champagne bar takes pride of place in the station where the Paris Eurostar arrives. There is a button you can press for refills. www.searcyschampagnebars.co.uk. St Pancras International, Upper Concourse, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross.
C.O.L.D Bar (The City of London Distillery) This retro-styled basement cocktail bar is a working gin distillery, and offers tastings, classes and tours. It’s tucked away down an alleyway in an atmospheric, old part of the City. www.cityof londondistillery.com. 22-24 Bride Lane, EC4Y 8DT. T: 020-7936 3636. D9. Station: Blackfriars.
Drakes Tabanco A Spanish-style tapas bar that serves rare sherries, aged in ancient oak barrels. There are also craft beers, natural wines and Andalucian tapas. www.drakestabanco.com. 3 Windmill St, W1T 2HY. T: 020-7637 9388. D7. Station: Goodge Street.
Dukes Bar Outstanding bar located in the hotel of the same name, and renowned for its superior Martinis. Oozing old-world charm, with leather armchairs in a cosy interior, the Martinis are made at your table and served from a century-old wooden trolley. www.dukeshotel.com. Dukes London, 35 St James Place, SW1A 1NY. T: 020-7491 4840. E7. Station: Green Park.
Experimental Cocktail Club
Mews Cocktail Bar Deep leather sofas and an 18th-century chandelier set the tone for exquisite wines, fresh fruit cocktails and light dishes in a classy neighbourhood. www.mewsofmayfair.com. 10 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EY. T: 0207518 9388. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Six Storeys
The Nightjar Enjoy Prohibition-era cocktails at this stylish basement bar in Shoreditch, with live music most nights. The elaborate cocktails are amazing. www.barnightjar.com. 129 City Rd, EC1V 1JB. T: 020-7253 4101. C10. Station: Old Street.
Old Bengal Bar This place is converted from a former warehouse located in a quiet back street, with original brick walls and leather sofas. Enjoy classic cocktails. www.oldbengalbar.com. 16a New St, EC2M 4TR. T: 020-3503 0780. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.
Opium Cocktail Bar
In an old Chinatown townhouse, this stylish bar is tucked away, but worth the search for its inventive cocktails. Email booking is highly recommended. www.experimentalcocktailclublondon.com. 13a Gerrard St, W1D 5PS. T: 020-7434 3559. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
Tucked away in Chinatown, this is a warren of dimly-lit rooms styled like a 1920s Shanghai bar. Sip a lychee martini and choose food from the dim sum menu. www.opiumchinatown.com. Booking is recommended. 15 Gerrard St, W1D 6JE. T: 020-7734 7276. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
Freedom
Oriole
This gay-friendly venue attracts a trendy crowd to its stylish cocktail bar and the nightclub underneath. www.freedombarsoho.com. 60-66 Wardour St, W1F 0TA. T: 020-7734 0071. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Gong Located in The Shard, Gong is one of the highest Champagne bars in London and is the ideal place for sunset cocktails. www.the-shard.com. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8000. F10. Station: London Bridge.
Good Godfreys Old-style glamour and classic cocktails are served with a hint of history at this suave establishment. Try signature cocktails including the Astor Hip Flask, named after the New York Waldorf Astoria’s owner. www.waldorfhilton.co.uk. The Waldorf Hilton, Aldwych, WC2B 4DD. T: 020-7836 2400. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Gordon’s Wine Bar London’s oldest wine bar has been uncorking bottles since 1890 in its candlelit stone-arched basement. Try to go early to grab a table as it can get very busy. www.gordons winebar.com. 47 Villiers St, WC2N 6NE. T: 020-7930 1408. E8. Station: Embankment.
Jack Solomon’s Club This new basement speakeasy bar in Soho is accessed by a hidden entrance, and boasts old-school glamour, with special cocktails and a large dance floor. Email for the guest list. 41 Great Windmill St, W1D 7LU. www.jack solomons.com. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
As the name suggests, this Soho Square townhouse is split over six levels. Each floor is decorated in a bohemian style, with plush chairs, vintage lampshades and patterned wallpaper. Cocktails are its speciality – try the quince and blue cheeseinfused gin. www.sixstoreys.com. 11 Soho Square, W1D 3QE. T: 020-3504 7381. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Five of London’s Underground stations are named after pubs, including Angel and Swiss Cottage
Number 17 out of the World’s 50 Best Bars last year, this spacious cocktail bar is below Smithfield Market. It stages live jazz and blues music most nights, all in beautiful, explorer-decor surroundings. www.oriolebar.com. Smithfield Markets, East Poultry Ave, EC1A 9LH. T: 020-3457 8099. D9. Station: Farringdon.
Primo Bar Enjoy cocktails in this laid-back bar, which stages free live music every night. Its location makes a great meeting spot. The venue focuses on acoustic sounds, bringing artists and bands around the world, and it puts up-and-coming talent in the spotlight. The menu includes beef burgers, pastas and salads. www.primo bar.co.uk. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7282. F8. Station: Waterloo.
Reverend JW Simpson This cocktail bar is a real slice of ‘shabby chic’ – and is the genuine ex-abode of the good Reverend. Scruffy sofas and a laid-back vibe are its hallmark. You can also sign up for a cocktail masterclass. www.revjwsimpson.com. 32 Goodge St, W1T 2QJ. T: 020-3174 1155. E7. Station: Goodge Street.
Scarfes Bar This elegant bar is named after satirical cartoonist Gerald Scarfe, who created the caricatures of iconic British figures that are painted on the walls. Enjoy cocktails inspired by famous characters Scarfe has drawn, with Indian-style bar snacks. www.scarfesbar.com. Rosewood London hotel, 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8611. D8. Station: Holborn.
Social 24 The bar next to Jason Atherton’s restaurant has an Art Deco interior, a Prohibitioninspired cocktail list and amazing views. www.city sociallondon.com. Tower 42, 25 Old Broad St, EC2N 1HQ. T: 020-7877 7703. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.
Trader Vic’s This popular tiki-style basement bar is more than 50 years old. Relax and enjoy a mai tai cocktail, surrounded by Polynesian wooden masks. Live music is staged on Friday and Saturday nights. www.tradervicslondon.com. London Hilton on Park Lane, 22 Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208 4113. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Trader’s Wine Bar Sample a wide range of wines from around the globe in this intimate venue, inspired by centuries of merchant ships sailing up the Thames. Try a sharing board of cured meats and cheeses. www.traderswine.co.uk. Ivory House, Central Basin, St Katharine Docks, E1W 1AT. T: 020-7481 3796. Off map. Station: Tower Hill.
The Vault The specialist whisky bar Milroy’s has tables made of barrels, and The Vault, behind the bookcases, is a speakeasy with cosy arches. 3 Greek St, W1D 4NX. www.thevaultsoho.co.uk. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
The Zetter Townhouse Tony Conigliaro is known for his groundbreaking cocktails in this lounge, with eccentric decor complete with leather armchairs, velvet cushions and a cosy fireplace. www.thezettertownhouse. com. 49-50 St John’s Square, EC1V 4JJ. T: 020-7324 4545. C9. Station: Farringdon.
CASINOS The Casino at the Empire This spectacular venue houses a restaurant and several bars, plus a dedicated poker room and the latest table and electronic games. www.the casinolsq.com. 5-6 Leicester Square, WC2H 7NA. T: 020-3733 1315. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
Hippodrome Casino Massive West End venue with gaming on three floors, including roulette and baccarat. There’s also a restaurant, plus a basement venue for live music. www.hippodromecasino.com. Cranbourn St, Leicester Square, WC2H 7JH. T: 020-7769 8888. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
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The Sportsman Casino Traditional and electronic gaming here, including three-card poker and American roulette. Enjoy a poker lounge and sports bar, plus informal dining. www.thesportsmancasino.com. 16 Old Quebec St, W1H 7AF. T: 020-3051 4616. D6. Station: Marble Arch.
LIVE ENTERTAINMENT 606 Club This relaxed members’ jazz cellar and restaurant serves great food to blues, R ’n’ B music, played by British-based independent artists on stage. There is also an intimate basement club and restaurant. Liane Carroll, Polly Gibbons and Jamie Cullum have performed here. www.606club.co.uk. 90 Lots Rd, SW10 0QD. T: 020-7352 5953. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.
The Blues Kitchen This busy music venue stages blues, soul and jazz music most nights, plus there’s a DJ at weekends. There are more than 80 varieties of bourbon and rye. It also serves Americanstyle food such as buffalo wings, gumbo and cornbread. www.theblueskitchen.com. 111 Camden High St, NW1 7JN (and branches). T: 020-7387 5277. Off map. Station: Camden Town.
Bunga Bunga Part restaurant, part bar, with lots of live entertainment, this Covent Garden venue has all the makings of a theatrical night out. Enjoy Italian cuisine as you watch the live cabaret acts. www.bungabunga-london.com. 167 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PG (and Battersea branch). T: 020-7590 3602. D8. Station: Holborn.
The Comedy Store One of the UK’s best stand-up and improvised comedy spots. The Comedy Store Players (Sun) sees the likes of Paul Merton and Neil Mullarkey, and there are also late-night stand-up slots. www.thecomedystore.co.uk. 1a Oxendon St, SW1Y 4EE. T: 0844-871 7699. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
London Cabaret Club British-themed cabaret. ‘Best of British Pop’ fuses acrobatics and dance with hits from the 1960s to the present day. Dinner and VIP tickets available. A DJ takes over until 3am. www.thelondoncabaret club.com. Victoria House, Bloomsbury Square, WC1B 4DA. T: 020-7242 0002. D8. Station: Holborn.
Ronnie Scott’s The famous jazz venue has hosted top musicians for more than 50 years including Sarah Vaughan, Prince, Ella Fitzgerald and Miles Davis. The weekly Sunday Jazz lunch has no minimum age, which makes it perfect for families to enjoy jazz music together. www.ronniescotts.co.uk. 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Stringfellow’s Over the years, a vast number of celebrities and members of the public have enjoyed entertainment supplied by more than 80 ‘Angels’ dancing at their tables at Peter Stringfellow’s world-famous Gentlemen’s Club and restaurant. Make sure you visit the opulent, velvet-adorned Red Rooms. Free entry when dining – the food is impressive. www.stringfellows.co.uk. 16-19 Upper St Martin’s Lane, WC2H 9EF. T: 020-7240 5534. E8. Station: Leicester Square. www.wheretraveler.com 75
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SPAS & SALONS | THE GUIDE
Traditional techniques
East is east Finding time to get away from London’s hustle and bustle is often a struggle, but as soon as you step into the Spa at Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, you are transported to the peace and tranquillity of the Orient. Admire the floral wall features, which symbolise rebirth and energy flow, before discovering serenity with a luxurious treatment. Having undergone an enormous two-year renovation, the Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park in Knightsbridge has reopened all of its doors to the public. The lavish hotel has unveiled a new contemporary spa, wellness and beauty facility, where you’ll be in the safe hands of the most sought-after health experts. They include Bastien Gonzalez, who is renowned around the world for his unique approach to pedicures and foot treatments – perfect for tourists who have been on their feet all day. The elegant interior is the work of Adam D Tihany, one of the world’s most distinguished hospitality designers, who takes you on a tour of traditional China. If you’re having a treatment, arrive ahead of time
to fully enjoy the philosophical experience in the Amethyst Crystal Steam Room, Sanarium, Vitality Pool and the Zen Colour Therapy Relaxation Area. After a busy trip, treat yourself to one of the Mandarin Oriental’s signature therapies using the spa’s bespoke oils, such as a massage, or for relaxing skin-conditioning treatment, head to the Rasul water temple. If, however, you’re short on time and going out for the evening, indulge in a soothing Philip Kingsley hair therapy session. The fitness centre was already one of the capital’s leading gyms before the refurbishment, attracting sports stars and celebrities. If you want to keep up your routine while you’re away, you’ll be happy to know that it’s kitted out with high-tech equipment, including a Technogym and a heated 17m-long stainless-steel pool. Meanwhile the awardwinning trainer and founder of London’s PilatesPT studio, Hollie Grant, is on hand. For a luxurious experience, the Mandarin Oriental’s new and improved spa is the place to visit. For full listing, turn to p. 77
CHUAN SPA The name of this spa (above) is fitting, as ‘chuan’ means a serene course of water, and in Chinese culture flowing water symbolises the practice of keeping the mind, body and soul in check. The treatments are based on traditional Chinese medicines. The Eastern Spiced Revival stands out for its warmed oils, spiced pinda pouches and sticks that are used to work on deep knots. 2 Cavendish Place, W1B 3DE
THAI SQUARE SPA While Thai Square Spa’s décor is inspired by Thai, Roman and Turkish spas, the menu is well and truly Thai. The signature treatment, the Traditional Thai Massage, combines a deep-tissue massage with ancient stretching techniques to create a feeling of wholeness for body and mind. 25 Northumberland Ave, WC2N 5AP
MAIN IMAGE COURTESY OF MANDARIN ORIENTAL HYDE PARK; CHUAN SPA COURTESY OF CHUAN SPA
As the Mandarin Oriental reopens after a refurbishment, Flora Neighbour finds out how the spa specialises in traditional Chinese treatments
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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Most spas are open seven days a week, but check for opening hours. References at the end of listings (A1 etc.) refer to coordinates on map p. 80-81
SPAS Aveda Institute This three-storey salon offers cuts, colour, blow dries and botanical treatments using Aveda’s plant-based products. The Express Beauty Bar has a range of treatments lasting 15 and 30 minutes. www.avedainstitute.co.uk. 174 High Holborn, WC1V 7AA. T: 020-7759 7355. D8. Station: Holborn.
Blue Harbour Health Club & Spa This exclusive members-only spa offers day passes for £25. Swim in the 17m pool, use the fitness equipment or visit the Figaro Hair Salon. There are treatment rooms for disabled visitors. www.blueharbourspa.co.uk. Chelsea Harbour Drive, SW10 0XG. T: 020-7300 5011. Off map. Station: Imperial Wharf.
Body Relaxation High-quality, deep-tissue massage directly in your hotel room, apartment or at the Sloane Street studio. Open until late. T: 07941-505982.
Chuan Spa Step inside this luxury spa that has recently been refurbished. It uses the principles of Chinese medicine to rebalance your mind, body and spirit. www.chuanspa.com. 2 Cavendish Place, W1B 3DE. T: 020-7973 7550. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
Elemis Day Spa This spa specialises in facials that tackle ageing, pigmentation and blemishes. There is a private suite, so you can share the experience with your guest while sipping Champagne. The Speed Spa offers treatments in 30 minutes. www.elemis.com/ dayspa. 2 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EX. T: 0207499 4995. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Jurlique Founded by Dr Jürgen Klein, a biochemist, and his wife Ulrike, a botanist, this spa uses their natural skincare range. Treatments include an anti-stress facial, which eases tension in your face, neck and shoulders. www.jurlique.co.uk. 489 Oxford St, W1C 2AU. T: 0800-040 7685. D8. Station: Bond Street.
Mandara Spa This spa has an Asian touch: the gorgeous decor includes a bamboo forest, Mondrian paintings and Japanese shoji screens. Try the warm bamboo massage, where bamboo stalks are used on your body. www.mandaraspa.com. Park Plaza Hotel, 200 Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7300. F8. Station: Waterloo.
Mandarin Oriental A luxury spa inspired by traditional Chinese massage methods (p. 76). The spa has recently undergone a major refurbishment. Facilities include a 17m-long pool and a gym offering personal trainer sessions. www.mandarinoriental. com. 66 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LA. T: 020-7235 2000. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.
One Aldwych This spa offers a range of treatments including massages, manicures and waxing. Brands used are Natura Bissé and Oskia. The health club is excellent, while the pool is chlorine-free and has underwater music. www.onealdwych.com. One Aldwych, WC2B 4BZ. T: 020-7300 0600. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
The Refinery This men-only spa has treatments ranging from a traditional shave to a sports massage. If you want to master a wet shave, you can book a Principles of Shaving lesson. Also available at Harrods. www.the-refinery.com. 60 Brook St, W1K 5DU. T: 020-7409 2001. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Rocco Forte at Brown’s Hotel An oasis of calm in the West End, boasting a premium selection of treatments and a 24-hour gym. Luxury treatments include a Gold Age Defying Facial and Carat Diamond Face and Body Ritual. www.brownshotel.com. Albemarle St, W1S 4BP. T: 020-7518 4009. E7. Station: Green Park.
The Spa at Dolphin Square
AVENA MASSAGE by qualified female masseuse.
Total relaxation, revitalising massage. Please call to book an appointment at your hotel, home or our studio on:
07879 697478
Moroccan-inspired luxury. Signature massages include the Moroccan Majorelle and Arabian Ceremony. Treatments can be combined with a hammam. There is also a menu for hen parties. www.dolphinsquare.co.uk/spa. Chichester St, SW1V 3LX. T: 020-7798 6767. Off map. Station: Pimlico.
Spa Illuminata Recently voted the Best Day Spa in London from Condé Nast Johansens, the menu includes facials, massages and a men’s menu. Anti-ageing treatments include anti-wrinkle injections and skin peels. www.spailluminata.com. 63 South Audley St, W1K 2QS. T: 020-7499 7777. E6. Station: Marble Arch.
Late appointments available
Ushvani Plush spa with a philosophy that is based on ancient Asian culture and takes a holistic approach. Treatments include a Malay massage and Balinese massage, which incorporates spices. www.ushvani.com. 1 Cadogan Gardens, SW3 2RJ. T: 020-7730 2888. G5. Station: Sloane Square.
SALONS Gentlemen’s Tonic This is a stylish men-only grooming establishment with a barbershop, body and hair treatments and a full range of products. www.gentlemenstonic.com. 31a Bruton Place, W1J 6NN. T: 020-7297 4343. E6. Station: Bond Street.
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APPLYING SCIENCE TO PERSONAL TRAINING Using the power of genetics to design Personal Training sessions on the most personal level possible!
A traditional barbershop in Mayfair, which offers wet shaves, manicures and haircuts for an elegant result. www.trumpers.com. 9 Curzon St, W1J 5HQ. T: 020-7499 1850. E6. Station: Green Park.
Hershesons Blow Dry Bar At this trendy hairdresser to the stars, you can ask for your favourite fashion-forward look from a menu and a stylist will create it in 30 minutes. www.hershesons.com. Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 020-7493 1600. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Jo Hansford This hair-colour salon, which is home to top stylists, is renowned for its colour correction work. The salon also has an in-house chef. www.jo hansford.com. 48 South Audley St, W1K 2QB. T: 020-7495 7774. E6. Station: Marble Arch.
Windle & Moodie This award-winning hair salon specialises in upfront catwalk looks. The 20-minute Speed Styling service includes updos. www.windleand moodie.com. 41-45 Shorts Gardens, WC2H 9AP. T: 020-7497 2393. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
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ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE TICKET INFORMATION Oyster cards & Travelcards
Concierges in the capital use Where London for information – these concierges share their top tips
Lee Hubbard
Rashid Ali
Stefano Trovo
concierge at Crowne Plaza London – The City
head concierge at The Langham
concierge at Como The Halkin
What’s the most popular request? To get tickets for Warner Bros. Studio Tour – The Making of Harry Potter, and suggestions for where to watch the World Cup!
Any strange requests? One family decided they didn’t want to spend a rainy day in London, so they asked me to arrange a private jet to take them to the Balearic Islands for the day!
Any strange requests? A client showed me a picture of a Brazilian parrot and asked me to source one. After a long search, we acquired the rare breed from outside London.
Any strange requests? Sorting theatre tickets for 16 middle-aged Brazilian ladies. They all talked to me at the same time in Portuguese, and I replied using Google Translate – that was memorable!
Why is your hotel special? It was the first hotel to introduce ‘tiffin’, now known as afternoon tea. Our former guests include Napoleon and Sir Arthur Conan Doyle.
Why is your hotel special? We pride ourselves on our Michelin-starred, SpanishBasque restaurant, Ametsa with Arzak Instruction.
Why is your hotel special? Our bar, Voltaire, has private vaults that were prison cells when King Henry VIII had his Bridewell Palace here. Now they’re drinking dens! Any tips on how to do London in a day? Hear all about the city’s history on a hop-on, hop-off bus, then put it in perspective from up high at the Sky Garden or Coca-Cola London Eye.
Any tips on how to do London in a day? Visit Westminster Abbey, have lunch at Rules in Covent Garden and see the Crown Jewels at the Tower of London. Any romantic tips? Enjoy a private capsule on Coca-Cola London Eye with Champagne and chocolates. Share a hidden gem. Take a step back in time at Sir John Soane’s Museum, the architect’s former home.
Left: Sir John Soane’s Museum This image: Kenwood
Share a hidden gem. Kenwood is a stately home near Hampstead Heath. It is surrounded by magnificent gardens and has many family-friendly activities. Nearby Parliament Hill has some breathtaking views. Any family-friendly ideas? Visit Richmond Park and its wonderful Isabella Plantation, a paradise of natural beauty. The park offers outdoor activities for all ages, such as horse riding and cycling, and there’s plenty of wildlife.
An Oyster card is a pre-paid travel smart card. It’s a cheap way to pay for single journeys by bus, Tube, tram, DLR, London Overground and most National Rail train services in London. You can buy a Visitor Oyster card before you leave home for a £5 fee and pre-load it with credit at www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk. The system has nine zones. Zone 1 is in central London. Visitors can buy Oyster cards and Day Travelcards from stations, Visitor Centres and any Oyster Ticket Shop. UK visitors can also pay for their travel with a UK-issued contactless payment card. See www.tfl.gov.uk/visitinglondon. An Oyster card also gives you a 25 per cent discount on London’s cable car, the Emirates Air Line, and a 10 per cent discount on single journeys on most MBNA Thames Clippers river buses. For more info, visit www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk.
GETTING AROUND For 24-hour travel information, visit the Transport for London (TfL) website. www.tfl.gov.uk/ visitinglondon or call T: 0343-222 1234.
London Underground (The Tube) www.tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground map (opposite). Services run Mon-Sat 5am-12.30am and Sun 7.30am-11.30pm on most routes. The Night Tube service runs on Fri-Sat on the Victoria, Jubilee, Central, Northern (via Embankment) and Piccadilly lines. Fares vary; a Zone 1 adult fare costs £4.90 (£2.40 with an Oyster card).
London Buses London buses run 5am-12.30am. Night buses (midnight-4.30am) operate on main routes (several services are 24-hour). You can’t pay for a bus fare with cash, so use a Visitor Oyster card, Oyster card, Travelcard or a UK-issued contactless payment card. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/ buses. A single fare is £1.50 with an Oyster card or a UK-issued contactless payment card.
London Overground www.tfl.gov.uk. Trains run Mon-Sat 5am-midnight; Sun 7am-11.30pm on most routes. Please check for 24-hour service at weekends.
Docklands Light Railway Trains run approximately every three-anda-half minutes to 10 minutes. Mon-Sat 5.30am12.30am; Sun 7am-11pm. T: 020-7363 9700.
Trains Paddington serves the West Country, Wales and the South Midlands. Liverpool Street and Fenchurch Street serve East Anglia and Essex. Euston King’s Cross St Pancras Marylebone and St Pancras King’s Cross International (connects to St Pancras) serve north and central Britain, Charing Cross and southeast England. London Bridge Waterloo Victoria serve southern England. and For times and tickets, visit www.nationalrail. co.uk or call T: 0845-748 4950. St Pancras International. Eurostar uses Visit www.eurostar.com for more information, times and ticket prices. Call T: 0344-822 4777 (from outside the UK, T: 01233-617 575).
LEE HUBBARD COURTESY OF CROWNE PLAZA LONDON – THE CITY; RASHID ALI COURTESY OF THE LANGHAM; STEFANO TROVO COURTESY OF COMO THE HALKIN; KENWOOD HOUSE © ISTOCK; SIR JOHN SOANE’S MUSEUM © GARETH GARDNER
AT YOUR SERVICE
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ESSENTIALS
Willesden Green
Stonebridge Park Harlesden
Brondesbury Park
Willesden Junction
Kilburn Park Maida Vale Warwick Avenue Royal Oak Westbourne Park
Paddington
Ladbroke Grove Latimer Road
North Acton
Shepherd’s Bush
White City
Shepherd’s Bush Market
Stamford Brook
Ravenscourt Park
West Kensington
High Street Kensington
Green Park
Gloucester Road
Earl’s Court
Goodge Street
Victoria
Hoxton
Charing Cross
Liverpool Street
Bank
Aldgate East
Stepney Green
Whitechapel
Aldgate
Cannon Street Monument
Tower Gateway Rotherhithe
Bermondsey
Canada Water
West Brompton
Parsons Green
Surrey Quays
River Thames
Step-free access from street to platform
Bakerloo
Vauxhall
East Putney
Canning Town
District
Hammersmith & City
Custom House for ExCeL
Blackwall East India
Emirates Royal Docks
Heron Quays
North Greenwich
Elephant & Castle
Jubilee
Metropolitan
Prince Regent Royal Albert
West Silvertown Emirates Greenwich Peninsula
Pontoon Dock
New Cross Gate
Northern
Victoria
Cyprus Gallions Reach Beckton
King George V 17/E/3249/P
Greenwich New Cross
Brockley
Piccadilly
Beckton Park
London City Airport
Mudchute
Cutty Sark for Maritime Greenwich Queens Road Peckham
Circle
Royal Victoria
Island Gardens
Borough
Southfields
Central
Star Lane
Langdon Park
Canary Wharf
Lambeth North
Putney Bridge Step-free access from street to train
East Ham Upton Park
Crossharbour
Southwark
Imperial Wharf
Upney Barking
West Ham
Bow BromleyRoad by-Bow Devons Road
South Quay Waterloo Pimlico
Fulham Broadway
Elm Park Dagenham East Dagenham Heathway
Stratford
West India Quay
Wapping
River Thames
London Bridge
Woodgrange Park
Forest Gate Maryland
Abbey Road
Westferry Poplar
Limehouse
Tower Hill
Fenchurch Street
Embankment
Pudding Mill Lane
All Saints Shadwell
Blackfriars Temple
Westminster
Bow Church
St. Paul’s
Hornchurch
Plaistow
Moorgate Chancery Lane
Ilford Manor Park
Becontree
Bethnal Green Bethnal Mile Green End
Shoreditch High Street
Barbican
Upminster Bridge
Seven Kings
Wanstead Park
Stratford High Street
Cambridge Heath
Old Street
Covent Garden
St. James’s Park
Homerton London Fields
Haggerston
Farringdon
Leicester Mansion Square House
Piccadilly Circus
Sloane Square
South Kensington
Holborn
Tottenham Court Road
Knightsbridge
Barons Court
Hammersmith
Regent’s Park
Marble Arch
Dalston Junction
Angel Euston Square Russell Square
Queensway
Caledonian Road & Barnsbury
King’s Cross St. Pancras
Bayswater Oxford Circus
Stoke Newington Leytonstone High Road St. James Rectory Street Road Dalston Stratford Leyton Kingsland Clapton International Hackney Canonbury Hackney Downs Hackney Central Wick
Highbury & Islington
Euston
Warren Street
Edgware Road
Hyde Park Corner
Kensington (Olympia)
Goldhawk Road
Mornington Crescent
Great Baker Portland Street Street
Notting Lancaster Bond Gate Street Hill Gate
Holland Park
Wood Lane
Camden Road
Chalk Farm Camden Town
Finchley Road Swiss Cottage St. John’s Wood
Edgware Road Marylebone
Kentish Holloway Road Town Caledonian Road
Kentish Town West Belsize Park
West Hampstead
Kensal Rise Brondesbury Kensal Green South Queen’s Park Kilburn High Road Hampstead
East Acton
Finchley Road & Frognal
Kilburn
Deptford Bridge Elverson Road
Waterloo & City
DLR
Services or access at these stations are subject to variation. Please search ‘TfL stations’ for full details. Kensington (Olympia) open weekends and on some public holidays
Emirates Air Line cable car
Overground
TfL Rail
*Service and network charges may apply. See tfl.gov.uk/terms for details.
Transport for London
Reg. user No. 17/E/3249/P
Version D 7.2017
Accessible London
Emirates Air Line cable car
Get information for deaf and disabled travellers, including step-free journeys on the Tube, bus and river services at www.visitlondon.com/ access and www.openbritain.net.
London’s only cable car runs across the River Thames between Greenwich Peninsula (The O2) and the Royal Docks (ExCeL London). You can board from either the North Greenwich or Royal Victoria sides of the river (return flights are available). You can buy a combined ticket with MBNA Thames Clippers and London Transport Museum. www.tfl.gov.uk/emiratesairline.
Taxis You can hail a black cab (taxi) in the street. Fares increase after 8pm. You cannot hail private-hire or minicabs, which you must book. We strongly advise against you using any vehicle that approaches you in the street, except for licensed black cabs. www.tfl.gov.uk.
Car hire Make sure your driving licence is valid for the UK and see ‘Congestion Charge’ below. 4x4 Vehicle Hire: T: 01245-410535. www.4x4vehiclehire.co.uk. Hertz: T: 0870-844 8844. www.hertz.co.uk. Kendall Cars Ltd: T: 020-8542 0403. www.kendallcars.com. Enterprise Rent-A-Car: T: 0800-800 227. www.enterprise.co.uk.
Congestion Charge UNDERGROUND SIGN © ISTOCK; MAP COURTESY OF TFL
Improvement works may affect your journey, please check before you travel
There is a congestion charge to drive into central London, Mon-Fri 7am-6pm. Payable in advance or on the day of travel (£11.50), or the day after (£14). UK: T: 034-3222 2222. International: T: +44 20-7649 9122. www.cclondon.com.
River services www.tfl.gov.uk/river MBNA Thames Clippers: www.mbnathames clippers.com. MBNA Thames Clippers River Bus serves 22 piers, with departures every 20 minutes. Adult prices start from £4.40. River Roamer ticket (unlimited hop on/hop off all day from 9am). Adult £19; child (5-15) £9.50; family (two adults, up to three children) just £38. Children under five travel free. Discounts available on MBNA Thames Clippers with a TfL Travelcard, Oyster, or via the app or online.
Correct at time of going to print
On foot It’s often quicker to get around London by walking. Look out for blue and yellow Legible London street maps. www.tfl.gov.uk/ legiblelondon.
Santander Cycles There are 11,500 bikes for hire from 750 docking stations throughout central London. £2 to hire the first 30 minutes. There’s no need to book, but you need a debit or credit card to hire a bike. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/santandercycles or call T: 0343-222 6666.
Coaches London’s main coach services use Victoria Coach Station, a central hub which offers travel to destinations around the UK and some parts of Europe, such as France and the Netherlands. SW1W 9TP. T: 0843-222 1234. www.tfl.gov.uk/ coaches Victoria. Map D4.
DELIVERY Mail Boxes Etc. Worldwide parcel delivery, courier and postal services. There are 1,600 stores worldwide and more than 150 stores in the UK and Ireland. Mail Boxes is a trained certified packer. T: 01608-649230. www.mbe.co.uk/london.
24-hour Tube lines The service runs on Fridays & Saturdays on the following lines. More are due to open soon. • Jubilee line: Across the entire line. • Victoria line: Across the entire line. • Northern line: Between Morden and Camden Town and between Camden Town and High Barnet/Edgware. • Piccadilly line: Between Cockfosters and Heathrow Terminal 5. • Central line: Between White City and Leytonstone; between Ealing Broadway and White City; and between Leytonstone and Loughton/Hainault. www.wheretraveler.com 79
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15/05/2018 12:17
WHERE NOW | TONY CHRISTIE
TONY CHRISTIE SINGER Christie has made 40 albums since the ‘70s, with hit songs including (Is This the Way to) Amarillo. He is performing two shows at St Pancras Old Church in Camden. His next album, Pop Nonsense, is out in the autumn
Where would you go for breakfast?
Where would you eat lunch?
Where would you have a drink?
Balans Soho Society in Soho does a good breakfast. I love Soho – it’s such an interesting area. I feel safe there, and I like that it’s close to Chinatown.
I like Trader Vic’s at London Hilton on Park Lane. It serves spicy Hawaiian food and has unusual decor, which makes it look like a tropical island.
How do you prefer to get around?
Where in London holds a special memory for you?
I like old-fashioned pubs with real ale and no music – the type of place where you can stand at the bar to talk to people. I especially like The French House in Soho, which has a long history – the French would visit during the war. It’s got real ale, good food and it’s full of characters.
I try to walk when I can, but if it’s too far then I’ll hop in a black cab.
What’s your favourite building? As a member of the Grand Order of Water Rats – an organisation for people who work in show business, such as musicians and film stars – I was invited to Buckingham Palace to meet the Queen in 2014 to celebrate the organisation’s 125th anniversary. I was gobsmacked when she said she’d heard my song, (Is This the Way to) Amarillo. The palace is huge and I liked the paintings.
Which museums and galleries do you like visiting? I love portraits. I could easily spend three hours in the National Portrait Gallery near Trafalgar Square.
Where do you like to shop? I hate shopping! But my wife is a big shopper. Every time we visit London, she drags me around Harrods in Knightsbridge.
What is your favourite green space? I really like walking, especially around the Italian Gardens in Kensington Gardens and the Kyoto Garden in Holland Park.
In the 1970s, I did a season at The Talk of the Town in the London Hippodrome, in Leicester Square. I was asked to perform last minute after someone pulled out, and I had to cancel a holiday in the Norfolk Broads to take part. But I was glad I did – it was a great gig. I’ve been back since, too.
Would you do anything extravagant? I’ve done everything! I like to see as many shows as possible, and go to nice restaurants – London has so many to choose from. I wouldn’t go anywhere too upmarket though, as I like to feel comfortable. I also like to walk, especially along the South Bank and Embankment.
Where would you stop for tea? I’d go to afternoon tea at the Savoy for an indulgent afternoon tea, as it’s comfy and it serves excellent tea. It has a piano player in the background, but it’s still quiet and peaceful.
Where is your favourite place for dinner? I like The Groucho Club, a private members’ bar and restaurant in Soho. Also the Royal Garden Hotel’s Chinese restaurant, Min Jiang, serves the best Singapore noodles in town.
What would be your perfect evening’s entertainment? I saw Beautiful: The Carole King Musical and Jersey Boys, but I would still love to see The Mousetrap.
Where would you love to spend the night? I’d stay at St Pancras Renaissance Hotel London. It’s grand and is close to nice shops. It is also convenient for my upcoming show in Camden. 21-22 Jun. St Pancras Old Church, Pancras Rd, NW1 1UL. T: 020-7424 0724. www.stpancrasoldchurch.wixsite.com
Clockwise from top left: Buckingham Palace; Tony Christie; dancers at the London Hippodrome; The National Portrait Gallery; Harrods bag; Kensington Gardens
BUCKINGHAM PALACE © THE ROYAL PARKS; TONY CHRISTIE COURTESY OF TONY CHRISTIE; DANCERS © THE HIPPODROME; THE NATIONAL GALLERY AND HARRODS BAG © ISTOCK; KENSINGTON GARDENS © THE ROYAL PARKS
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