GUIDE TO LONDON ®
MAY 2018
WWW.WHERETRAVELER.COM
PAINT THE TOWN
PLUS
ED BYRNE’S GUIDE TO THE CAPITAL KEW GARDENS’ NEW OPENING BOTOX FOR BEGINNERS
Discover Monet’s love of London, Venice and Paris at The National Gallery
THE GREAT OUTDOORS
INSI A RO DE CELE YA L Our 4 BR ATI ON 6-pag eg t
Alfresco theatre, from Shakespeare’s Globe to Regent’s Park
o Har uide Meghry and big d an’s ay
THE LATE SHIFT
Enjoy art with a twist in Museums at Night
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E N T E R TA I N M E N T
SHOPPING
DINING
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Contents See more of London at www.wheretraveler.com/london
RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE Where London has direct access to the head concierges and their teams across London’s four and five-star hotels, and is considered to be the ‘concierge’s bible’.
May
72
GUIDE TO LONDON ®
MAY 2018
WWW.WHERETRAVELER.COM
PAINT THE TOWN
PLUS
ED BYRNE’S GUIDE TO THE CAPITAL KEW GARDENS’ NEW OPENING BOTOX FOR BEGINNERS
Discover Monet’s love of London, Venice and Paris at The National Gallery
THE GREAT OUTDOORS
INSI A ROYDE CELEBR AL Our 46-pa ATIO ge guideN to
Alfresco theatre, from Shakespeare’s Globe to Regent’s Park
Harry Megh and an’s big day
THE LATE SHIFT
Enjoy art with a twist in Museums at Night
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E N T E R TA I N M E N T
SHOPPING
DINING
MAPS 13/04/2018 14:40
ON THE COVER
Claude Monet’s The Thames below Westminster (La Tamise et le Parlement) 1871 © The National Gallery, London
The Guide 22 SIGHTSEEING Visit landmarks from Hampton Court Palace to Temperate House at Kew Gardens, which reopens this month. 40 MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Have your own afterdark adventures during the Museums at Night festival, at iconic venues across the capital.
PRINCE HARRY AND MEGHAN MARKLE PHOTO © ALEXI LUBOMIRSKI VIA GETTY IMAGES; HAMPTON COURT PALACE © ISTOCK; MONET’S VIEW OF BORDIGHERA © THE ARMAND HAMMER COLLECTION/GIFT OF THE ARMAND HAMMER FOUNDATION; TONTERIA © WWW.RYANDINHAM.CO.UK
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48 ENTERTAINMENT From Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre to Shakespeare’s Globe, here are the best places to enjoy alfresco theatre and opera. 60 SHOPPING We get into the spirit of the royal wedding with a visit to the new Wedding Gallery store, which caters for brides and grooms-to-be.
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Best of the month 6 WHERE NOW
16 LANDMARK MOMENTS
We take a look at this month’s biggest events, including the slam-dunking Harlem Globetrotters at The O2, the FA Cup Final at Wembley Stadium and a charming canal festival in Little Venice.
As the first solo Monet exhibition in 20 years opens, we explore the Impressionist’s work.
10 A SPECIAL RELATIONSHIP The eyes of the world are on Prince Harry and Meghan Markle as they celebrate their big day at Windsor Castle – we take a look at what this union of two nations means, and what traditions we can expect on this momentous occasion.
PLAN
2018-2019
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20 FROM LONDON WITH LOVE Take your pick from these royal-inspired gifts, from cuddly bears dressed as Guards to the official china commemorating Prince Harry and Meghan Markle’s wedding day.
82 MY PERFECT DAY Ahead of his UK tour, comedian Ed Byrne picks his top spots in London, from pubs to Tube lines.
TA L K I N G T O T H E W O R L D ’ S V I S I T O R S We are the world’s largest publisher of maps and magazines for visitors. Today, Where can be found on hotel concierges’ desks in more than 80 destinations around the globe.
In this city, we also produce IN London – a portfolio of luxury magazines in Arabic, Chinese and English – and London Planner, the official monthly guide to the capital from VisitBritain and the Mayor’s promotional company, London & Partners.
64 DINING Enjoy delicious Spanish food and drink, from gluten-free tapas to perfect paellas, in these new restaurants. 72 NIGHTLIFE Fancy spotting a famous face? Then head to Tonteria on Sloane Square, where you may get to brush shoulders with a royal. 76 WELLBEING As the trend for Botox continues to rise, we look at where you can get a quick facial fix. 78 ESSENTIALS London concierges share their travel tips on how to make the most of your trip. 80 MAPS A useful map of central London.
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Vol. No. 44 Issue No. 5 ISSN 0951 323X
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WELCOME
PRINCE HARRY AND MEGHAN MARKLE © ALEXI LUBORMIRSKI VIA GETTY IMAGES
A royal invitation Nothing excites the nation quite like the pomp and pageantry of a bunting-filled, flag-waving, carriage-riding royal wedding. If you are here in time for the occasion, well done. You’ve made it for one of the most important moments of the year: the marriage between Prince Harry and Meghan Markle. As this union brings together America and the United Kingdom, we look at what it means for the wedding and the two countries (p. 10). Don’t miss our special supplement, too, which you’ll find in this issue. Get into the spirit with our souvenir suggestions, from official china to toy Guardsmen (p. 20). Also, if you’re planning your own big day, we visit the recently opened Wedding Gallery in the historic One Marylebone store, which has everything a bride and groom-to-be could dream of (p. 60). When spring is in the air, one of my favourite things to do is watch alfresco theatre – look out for productions being staged in grand settings such as Regent’s Park and Shakespeare’s Globe (p. 44). If you want some laughs while you’re in London, we recommend catching the comedian Ed Byrne on his UK tour. He talked to us about his favourite spots in the city, from traditional pubs to comedy clubs (p. 82). Have a fantastic trip!
KOHINOOR SAHOTA Group Editor Where London Twitter: @WhereLondon Facebook: Where London Instagram: wherelondon
If your Royal Celebration supplement is not included please visit: wheretraveler.com/london to access a downloadable version
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From the magic of the Harlem Globetrotters to the charm of Little Venice’s canal festival, here are some of May’s biggest events
HARLEM GLOBETROTTERS MONDAY 28 MAY
From slam dunks to a four-point shot, watch the Harlem Globetrotters show off their skills at The O2 arena. The troupe are visiting London as part of their annual world tour, showing off sporting excellence, quick wit and eye-popping athleticism. The group have an illustrious history stretching back nine decades, from 1926. Since then they’ve dazzled 144 million fans in 122 countries – and even boast Pope Francis as an honorary Globetrotter. www.theo2.com
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200TH ANNIVERSARY OF THE OLD VIC THROUGHOUT MAY
This year sees The Old Vic theatre celebrate its 200th birthday – the iconic venue has welcomed many famous faces, from Kristin Scott Thomas to John Boyega. The occasion is marked with the play Mood Music, starring Ben Chaplin. The action is set in a London music studio, where a songwriter, producers, lawyers and psychotherapists are battling it out for the ownership of a hit song. www.oldvictheatre.com
AFFORDABLE ART FAIR THURSDAY 10–SUNDAY 13 MAY
The Affordable Art Fair has come a long way since the first fair was held in Battersea in 1999. It has since spread to 10 major cities around the world, welcomed more than two million visitors and sold around 450,000 works of art. The latest fair takes place on Hampstead Heath, which means that – weather permitting – visitors can combine art, shopping and a glorious walk all in one day. As the name suggests, this art fair has smaller price tags than most, and promises works contributed by more than 1,000 artists, ranging from £100 to £6,000. www.affordableartfair.com
COVENT GARDEN MAY FAYRE AND PUPPET FESTIVAL SUNDAY 13 MAY
One of the 17th century’s most famous Londoners is Samuel Pepys, who is still celebrated today thanks to his amazingly detailed, lively diary. In May 1662, Pepys wrote about his encounter with Britain’s famous (and often violent) puppet characters, Mr Punch and his wife Judy. Pepys’ description is the first record of a Punch and Judy show, which is celebrated at the annual Covent Garden May Fayre and Puppet Festival. Expect puppet shows, maypole dancing and plenty of laughter. The fun takes place between 11am and 5pm in the pretty garden of St Paul’s Church on Bedford Street (not to be confused with St Paul’s Cathedral). www.alternativearts.co.uk www.wheretraveler.com 7
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WHERE NOW | CALENDAR
FA CUP FINAL SATURDAY 19 MAY
Wembley Stadium hosts the crucial, season-ending trophy deciders this month. The Emirates FA Cup Final (19 May), the world’s oldest football competition, is guaranteed a new name on the cup following Arsenal’s early exit from the tournament. Then it’s all about promotion with a trio of play-off finals. Nervous fans gather under Wembley’s arch and hope and pray for their teams’ success in promotion from the Championship (26 May), League One (27 May) and League Two (28 May). www.wembleystadium.com
CANAL CAVALCADE IN LITTLE VENICE SATURDAY 5-MONDAY 7 MAY
Now in its 35th year, London’s brightest waterways festival returns to the beautiful waterways of Little Venice. Every May, this cluster of canals explodes into life, as colourful vessels gather together for a long weekend of lively activities. This is a great chance to experience some deeply British traditions, so go and watch the Morris dancing and enjoy a pint of real ale. Highlights include a boat pageant, a parade of illuminated boats after dark and children’s games. Best of all, it’s free to attend. www.waterways.org.uk
LA LA LAND SUNDAY 27 MAY
If there is one film that should be screened, accompanied by a 60-piece orchestra, then La La Land is it. The story follows two aspiring creatives in Hollywood: a musician (Ryan Gosling), who wants to open his own jazz bar, and an actress (Emma Stone), who decides to put on a one-woman show. The Oscar-winning film, which pays homage to the Golden Age of Hollywood musicals, is projected on to a big screen in Theatre Royal, Drury Lane. www.reallyusefultheatres.co.uk
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‘n’ B legend Jocelyn Brown performs 1 Rtonight at Camden Town’s Jazz Cafe Shakespeare’s Globe to see the 2 Visit new production of As You Like It to The Queen’s Gallery for the final 3 Head few days of the Charles II exhibition Western Europe’s tallest building 4 Visit and explore The View from The Shard MacMillan’s contemporary ballet 5 Enjoy Manon at the Royal Opera House your final chance to visit Early Printed 6 It’s Fans at the gorgeous Fan Museum India’s history in Spirit of India 7 Celebrate tonight at the Royal Festival Hall the final few days of Listen, an 8 Catch immersive exhibition at The British Library craftsmanship in fashion, art and 9 Admire design as London Craft Week begins your first rooftop sundowner of 10 Savour the season at Radio Rooftop on the Strand the life of a Jewish family as Life and 11 Follow Fate opens at the Theatre Royal Haymarket Victoria and Albert Museum’s The 12 The Future Starts Here exhibition opens today the sights and sounds of Planet Earth 13 Enjoy II Live in Concert at the Royal Albert Hall your love of the grape as the 14 Celebrate London Wine Week festival begins your best foot forward! May Madness 15 Put Tea Dance is on at the Royal Festival Hall in your own Night at the Museum 16 Indulge fantasies during Museums at Night a blanket for the first evening of 17 Bring Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre season British pop star Rita Ora performs 18 The tonight at the O2 Academy in Brixton the royal wedding! Catch a glimpse 19 It’s of Harry and Meghan in Windsor Live closes tonight at 20 Trainspotting quirky Waterloo venue, The Vaults the last week of the Wildlife Photography 21 It’s exhibition at the Natural History Museum stunning seasonal flowers at the 22 See first day of the RHS Chelsea Flower Show a spin on the landmark London Eye 23 Take for a 360-degree view of the capital the onset of summer at Hyde Park, 24 Enjoy one of the capital’s great green spaces the evergreen Rolling Stones perform 25 See live at the London Olympic Stadium comedy The Way of the World 26 Satirical closes tonight at the Donmar Warehouse Cardinal, a tragic masterpiece, 27 The opens at the Southwark Playhouse the exhibition of Orla Kiely’s designs 28 See at the Fashion and Textile Museum Opera Holland Park opens its 29 Today, summer season with Verdi’s La Traviata Bul – with art influenced by manga 30 Lee to sci-fi– opens at the Hayward Gallery legendary Bryan Adams performs 31 The live at The O2 arena tonight
PREVIOUS PAGES: HARLEM GLOBETROTTERS © JEFFREY PHELPS; THE OLD VIC COURTESY OF THE OLD VIC; AFFORDABLE ART FAIR © GUY BELL; PUPPET SHOW © NED DYKE-COOMES. THIS PAGE: FA CUP TROPHY © THE FA; CANAL FESTIVAL © INLAND WATERWAYS ASSOCIATION; LA LA LAND © LIONSGATE
MAY
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The Sunday Telegraph
THE UNTOLD STORY OF THE WITCHES OF OZ FOR THE BEST SEAT LOCATIONS, CHOOSE PREMIUM SEATS
©WLPL
WickedTheMusical.co.uk • #WickedUK APOLLO VICTORIA THEATRE
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WHERE NOW | ROYAL WEDDING
A SPECIAL
PRINCE HARRY AND MEGHAN MARKLE © ALEXI LUBOMIRSKI VIA GETTY IMAGES; ST GEORGE’S CHAPEL © ISTOCK
RELATIONSHIP As Prince Harry and Meghan Markle prepare for the wedding of the year, Paul Critcher discovers how American and British traditions will be brought together in this union
T
he interest in this month’s wedding between actress Ms Meghan Markle and His Royal Highness Prince Henry Charles Albert David (aka Prince Harry) is reaching fever pitch, as fans of the royals from America and the UK look forward to watching a fairy tale made real. But, of course, this is not the first unification of American and British cultures; the oft-quoted ’special relationship’ between the two countries has existed ever since the Mayflower first set sail from Plymouth in Devon back in 1620. The wedding of Meghan Markle and Prince Harry is the latest in a long line of star couplings in which Hollywood glamour meets English tradition. The most famous and controversial Anglo-American relationship surely has to be the union of twice-married American socialite Wallis Simpson and King Edward VIII. The resulting constitutional crisis – caused by the King’s desire to marry a divorcee – ended with his abdication, which rocked the royal family for decades. Fortunately, Prince Harry and Meghan’s marriage is far less controversial. Meghan is a divorcee – she was previously married to American film producer Trevor Engelson – but Harry’s father, Prince Charles, was divorced before marrying Camilla Parker Bowles in 2005, and as Prince Harry is far down the line of succession, it’s unlikely to have any constitutional significance. However, some of their date nights have got political – the couple went to see the musical Hamilton at the Victoria Palace Theatre. The award-winning production tells the story of the Founding Fathers of America and makes a villain out of Prince Harry’s ancestor, King George III. As we all wait to see what role Harry and Meghan’s relationship will take on the world stage, here’s our look at which American and British wedding traditions we can expect to see on the big day, and a guess at who will come out on top.
THE VENUE Following King Edward VIII’s abdication, the King and Wallis Simpson became the Duke and Duchess of Windsor. Windsor is a place that has huge significance for Harry and Meghan: St George’s Chapel at Windsor Castle is their wedding venue. The couple will be in good company, because the chapel has been the site of many royal celebrations, including the weddings of Prince Albert Edward, Prince
St George’s Chapel
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WHERE NOW | ROYAL WEDDING
Lady Diana Spencer marries Prince Charles at St Paul’s Cathedral in 1981 DIANA AND CHARLES © ALAMY; SAVILE ROW SIGN © VISITBRITAIN/JULIET WHITE; KATE AND WILLIAM © ALAMY
of Wales (who became King Edward VII) and Princess Alexandra of Denmark in 1863, and Harry’s uncle Prince Edward, Earl of Wessex to Sophie Rhys-Jones in 1999. Just 20 miles west of London, Windsor Castle makes for a fantastic day trip, but there are other popular royal wedding venues you can visit in the capital itself. The first royal wedding at Westminster Abbey took place in 1100 between King Henry I of England and Matilda of Scotland, and there have been many celebrations at the abbey since, including the wedding of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II and the Duke of Edinburgh in 1947. Meghan’s first wedding took place over four days on a beach in Jamaica, while her parents, Doria Loyce Ragland and Thomas Wayne Markle, got UK WINS married in a Self-Realisation Fellowship Temple in Los Angeles.
THE DRESS For many people, the ultimate royal wedding was that of Charles, Prince of Wales and Lady Diana Spencer in July 1981; it took place at another stunning setting, St Paul’s Cathedral. Yet possibly the most memorable scene from that day was of the royal family grouped together on the balcony at Buckingham Palace with the crowd below cheering the kissing couple. Diana’s iconic wedding dress – an ivory silk taffeta and lace gown – was designed by David and Elizabeth Emanuel. Meghan Markle’s chosen designer will have the gulp-inducing task of matching up to the achievements of the Emanuels and other royal dress designers such as Norman Hartnell, creator of Queen Elizabeth II’s dress,
The wedding of Kate Middleton and Prince William
and Sarah Burton (of Alexander McQueen), the talent behind Kate Middleton’s muchpraised wedding gown. Designers in the running for Meghan’s dress include such luminaries as Vera Wang and Oscar de la Renta. Rumour has it that Meghan might even opt for the British fashion house Ralph & Russo, which was responsible for the beautiful UK WINS couture gown she wore in her engagement pictures.
The street to head to for top tailoring
THE SUIT Suits, of course, will also feature prominently – although there is still debate as to whether Prince Harry will elect to wear military uniform or a traditional morning suit. Pundits are suggesting that a morning suit will win out, but Harry is extremely proud of his career in the British Army (in which he served as a captain) and may choose to reflect that at the wedding. Although retired from the army, he continues his work with armed services personnel through the Invictus Games – an international sports event he established for wounded and sick personnel. Should he choose to wear a morning suit, he’s likely to source one from Savile Row in Mayfair, UK WINS famous worldwide for its traditional men’s tailoring.
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WHERE NOW | ROYAL WEDDING THE GUESTS
Ed Sheeran
Sir Elton John Spice Girls
SPEECHES
THE WEDDING SINGER With the world’s biggest entertainers at Harry and Meghan's fingertips, there is already much speculation about who will perform the couple’s first dance song. Mel B of the Spice Girls suggested on a TV chat show that the band had been invited, while Sir Elton John, who is good friends with the princes and performed at the funeral of their mother Princess Diana, is bound to be attending. There has been no announcement yet but Ed Sheeran, who is a pal of the royal brothers, is said to be in the running. His song Thinking Out Loud is synonymous with weddings; it’s a popular first dance choice and has become associated with being a proposal song – so much so that when he performs it, couples are invited UK WINS to come up on stage to pop the question.
Wedding traditions in the US and the UK are very similar but there are a few differences worth noting. Bachelor and bachelorette parties in the States become stag and hen dos in the UK – but whatever side of the Atlantic you’re on, they tend to involve laughter and alcohol. The UK has ushers, not groomsmen, and only the best man, the groom and the father of the bride give a speech – unlike in the States, where the chief bridesmaid also gives a speech. Everyone will be waiting for the best man’s speech – these are much kinder in the US, where it’s traditional to share positive stories about the groom. In the UK, however, you have to be prepared to wince as the best man digs out the most embarrassing stories he can find. The question we’d all like to ask is: what has likely best man Prince William got on Prince Harry that is guaranteed to make his younger brother’s cheeks blush? Breaking with tradition, Meghan is planning on a first for a royal wedding: she is giving her own speech. She also called her future husband a feminist, while the family she is marrying into have, for the first time in history, changed the succession rules to make them gender neutral. This is clearly US WINS a landmark era in British royal history.
T H E W E D D I N G D A Y: 1 9 M A Y 2 0 1 8 Michelle and Barack Obama
Noon: Wedding takes place at St George’s Chapel, Windsor Castle 1pm: The couple enjoy a carriage procession through the streets of Windsor taking in Castle Hill, High Street, Sheet Street, Kings Road, Albert Road, Long Walk and finally back to Windsor Castle The couple return to St George’s Hall for a reception Prince Charles hosts a private reception for the couple, friends and family in the evening
SIR ELTON JOHN, MICHELLE AND BARACK OBAMA, SERENA WILLIAMS, ED SHEERAN AND THE SPICE GIRLS © ALAMY; ALL GRAPHICS © ISTOCK
Meghan and Harry’s reputation as a ‘couple of the people’ is enhanced by the announcement that 1,200 members of the public from across the UK will be invited to the wedding. The guests will be nominated by nine regional Lord Lieutenant offices. Two hundred people from Prince Serena Williams Harry’s charities, 100 school pupils, 610 Windsor Castle community members, and 530 members of the Royal Households and Crown Estate will also receive invitations. Royals and dignitaries will receive invitations, but it’s the star names from Hollywood who we all want to hear about, particularly as Meghan Markle, who was born in Los Angeles, is one of their own. As the USA doesn’t have a monarchy, Britain’s royal history makes the wedding hugely alluring to many Americans. In the States, film stars and politicians are held in the same regard as royalty, and it’s acceptable for them to move between these realms – from calls for Oprah Winfrey to run for President, to Barack Obama singing at his own rallies. Enthusiastic crowds at ceremonies such as the Oscars and presidential inaugurations evoke a national pride that the UK reserves just for the royals. Speculation about some of the big names includes Meghan’s long-standing friend tennis champion Serena Williams, actress Priyanka Chopra, actors from her TV show Suits and, perhaps the biggest of all, Barack and Michelle Obama, who are friends of Prince Harry US WINS through his work on the Invictus Games.
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Landmark moments Amazingly, there hasn’t been a Claude Monet exhibition in London for more than 20 years; the wait is now over with Monet & Architecture at The National Gallery. More than 75 paintings span his career, demonstrating how the Impressionist used architecture to illustrate the increasingly modern world around him. Neil Simpson learns more through its curator
M
onet was famously obsessed with nature, but this exhibition shines a new light on his work with buildings. The show’s curator, Professor Richard Thomson – who is Watson Gordon Professor of Fine Art at the University of Edinburgh – says: ‘Monet painted architecture for all sorts of positive purposes in his work.’ We asked the professor for his insights and highlights of Monet & Architecture – bring this along when you visit the exhibition.
VIEW OF BORDIGHERA, 1884 ‘This is the first time that Monet went to paint on the Mediterranean coast, enabled by railway systems developed from the mid-19th century. Monet took the train from Paris to Marseille and into Italy, staying at a village across the border called Bordighera. This painting is a view of the village from a nearby hill, looking through pine trees and the dense vegetation. Sticking out from the hill is the bell tower of Bordighera. It was built in the Middle Ages by the Saracens, then extended and
converted into a bell tower for the parish church, so its architecture has evolved. The white tower at the bottom of the hill was contemporary; built around 1870, it was designed by French architect Charles Garnier for a French financier and
politician. This grand villa nestles into the foreground of Monet’s picture, giving it two emphatic verticals: the old bell tower and a modern plutocrat’s villa. Monet is asking you to pick them out and appreciate that contrast.’
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MONET | WHERE NOW
MAIN IMAGE: CLAUDE MONET’S THE GRAND CANAL (LE GRAND CANAL), 1908 © FINE ARTS MUSEUMS OF SAN FRANCISCO GIFT OF OSGOOD HOOKER; VIEW OF BORDIGHERA © HAMMER MUSEUM, LOS ANGELES; THE BEACH AT TROUVILLE © ALLEN PHILLIPS/WADSWORTH ATHENEUM; THE SAINT-LAZARE RAILWAY STATION AND THE THAMES BELOW WESTMINSTER © THE NATIONAL GALLERY, LONDON
TROUVILLE BEACH, 1870 ‘Trouville was a recently developed tourist resort on the Normandy beaches of northern France – the spread of the railways made it a fashionable tourist resort at the time. On the right-hand side, you can see the modern villas and hotels that had been recently constructed, such as the Hotel de Roche Noir, with the beach on the left – you get that contrast between nature and modernity. Monet painted these pictures from a position where the boardwalk down the middle gives a rushing perspective: your eye follows the boardwalk into the distance and that sense of speed suits the modernity of the scene.’
THE SAINTLAZARE RAILWAY STATION, 1877 ‘Monet was given special permission to paint at the Gare Saint-Lazare. The engineer Eugène Flachat designed its structure of girders, which allowed an iron-and-glass roof to spread 40 metres across the railway tracks unsupported. It was a remarkable piece of architectural engineering. In a typical landscape painting, you expect the atmospheric features to be in the sky, with a sense of irregularity from the clouds, while
beneath, you expect order from a man-made construction in the middle of the picture. Here, Monet cheekily reversed those expectations, so that in the central space, we get irregularity from the steam. Even though it’s irregular, however, it’s made artificially by locomotives. At the top of his painting, though, the iron-and-glass roof is painted almost symmetrically, which gives a powerful sense of regularity. So, in this picture, Monet reverses the conventional idea of landscape painting.’
THE THAMES BELOW WESTMINSTER, 1871 ‘When the Franco-Prussian War broke out in 1870, Monet quickly took his family to London. That winter, he painted this view of the Houses of Parliament from the Thames Embankment looking south. You get Big Ben silhouetted against a grey sky and, in the foreground, some scaffolding of construction. Sir Charles Barry’s Houses of Parliament (and indeed the Victoria Embankment, where Monet was sitting) had been finally completed just a short while before Monet painted them. Just as he’d done on Trouville Beach, Monet used a strong perspective, once again giving a sense of speed and modernity – he was coming up with modern compositions for very modern subjects.’
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THE CHURCH AT VARENGEVILLE, MORNING EFFECT, 1882 ‘Monet walked quite far out to sea at low tide to paint this. The great cliff fills up the middle of the picture like a great wall and then, perched on the top, is the little medieval church at Varengeville, Normandy. He had to escape pretty quickly when the tide turned! This is a wonderfully dramatic painting. You get a sense of the enormous power and grandeur of nature from this massive cliff, then the fragility of the church on top. You also get what I mentioned earlier; a sense of the irregularity of nature with the jagged edge of the cliff, then the regular angle of the roof and the spire at the top. Although the cliff looks incredibly powerful, the face of it has the marks of crumbling. I think that those are the sorts of elements that fascinated Monet and led him to paint such a magnificent picture.’
THE PALAZZO DARIO DETAIL, ABOVE AND THE PALAZZO CONTARINI, VENICE, 1908 ‘The exhibition has two paintings of palazzi, both on Venice’s Grand Canal. They were built for Venetian merchants, but by the early-19th century many had been bought by wealthy foreigners, including France’s Princesse de Poligna. When she was in Venice, her husband pointed at the Palazzo Contarini and said he would like to own something like it, so she bought it for his birthday. People writing about Venice at that time, such as Henry James, felt that the city’s great age had passed, with a tension between rich tourists and how intellectuals felt about it. This fascinated Monet and he painted these buildings without any human figures, to convey melancholy.’ The Credit Suisse Exhibition: Monet & Architecture at The National Gallery. To 29 Jul. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7747 2885. www.nationalgallery.org.uk. Monet & Architecture by Richard Thomson is published on 15 May
THE CHURCH AT VARENGEVILLE, MORNING EFFECT, COLLECTION OF JOHN AND TONI BLOOMBERG © THE SAN DIEGO MUSEUM OF ART; THE RUE MONTORGUEIL, PARIS, THE NATIONAL HOLIDAY OF 30 JUNE, 1878 © MUSÉE D’ORSAY, PARIS DIST. RMN-GRAND PALAIS/PATRICE SCHMIDT; THE PALAZZO DARIO © WWW.BRIDGEMANIMAGES.COM
THE RUE MONTORGUEIL, PARIS, 1878 ‘This picture from the Musée d’Orsay is very famous, so obviously we’re thrilled to have it. The exhibition is made up of 78 paintings, and about a quarter of those are from private collections. To have so many from private owners is really something. It means that you will see some pictures that are famous, but also many that are not so familiar.’
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SIGHTSEEING | THE GUIDE
A house-warming party
Swing into spring
Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew has long been a highlight of the sightseeing scene, but the unveiling of its Temperate House (from 5 May) makes it a must-visit this month. Built between 1860 and 1863, the glorious Temperate House is the world’s biggest Victorian glasshouse. The Grade I-listed structure has been closed to the public for a comprehensive refurbishment since 2013 and the results are now being revealed. The Temperate House is constructed from an iron frame and thousands of panes of glass, under which 10,000 temperate plants grow, representing 1,500 different species. During the repair work, the team at Kew moved approximately 500 of these plants into a temporary nursery and it has taken six months to carefully put them all back. The Victorian ironwork has been restored, the glass replaced and the soaring central area redesigned, creating a grander space. In order to protect the rare plants within, however, this transformation isn’t simply superficial. The glasshouse’s ventilation system has been replaced, in order to
make sure that the precious plants inside can thrive in optimum conditions. Many of the unusual specimens which grow inside are under threat in their natural environments, which makes Kew’s Temperate House vital. The plants here come from regions including South and Central America, New Zealand, Asia and Africa – Kew’s Dombeya Mauritiana tree is native to Mauritius but was almost extinct. The Temperate House is now the only place in the world where this plant is being cultivated. Similarly, the Himalayan yew Taxus Wallichiana is being harvested to extinction, because it is used in a chemotherapy drug. It’s simply good luck that, as well as being home to such important conservation work, the Temperate House is beautiful. Director of horticulture at Kew, Richard Barley, explains: ‘We hope that every visitor will see plants in a new light, and what a light it will be – when our first visitors swing open the doors, they will find plants encased in a glistening cathedral, the new glass allowing the sun to stream in and the ironwork restored to its glossy best.’ For full listing, turn to p. 32
CHELSEA FLOWER SHOW If you can’t get enough of stunning plants in spectacular settings, give yourself a pat on the back: you’ve picked an excellent time to visit. The annual Chelsea Flower Show, organised by the Royal Horticultural Society, returns (22-26 May; above). It takes place in the glorious grounds of the Royal Hospital Chelsea, and the hottest topic is always the gardening competition, which sees a range of world-class, specially designed gardens battle it out for a coveted medal. www.rhs.org.uk
ELTHAM PALACE We also recommend walking through the stunning gardens at 1930s Art Deco mansion Eltham Palace in south-east London. They won gold at the London in Bloom Awards 2017. www.english-heritage.org.uk
ROYAL BOTANIC GARDENS, KEW IMAGES © RGB KEW; CHELSEA FLOWER SHOW © RHS AND LUKE MACGREGOR
Neil Simpson steps inside Kew Gardens’ Temperate House, the world’s largest Victorian glasshouse, as it reopens after a five-year refurbishment
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SIGHTSEEING T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and last entry time. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81
SIGHTSEEING
The drive of your life
Apsley House Visit the home of the Duke of Wellington to see its grand interiors and fine art. Wed-Sun & bank hols 11am-5pm. Adult £10; child £6. www.englishheritage.org.uk/apsleyhouse. 149 Piccadilly, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7NT. T: 020-7499 5676. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Whoever said the best things in life are free could have easily been talking about Yonda’s new sightseeing tours – 1,000 are being given away this month (p. 37). Visit the company’s website and use the discount code ‘London’. You can choose from a two-seater convertible or a four-seater car with a panoramic roof, then drive yourself or opt for a driver (for the four-seater) and guide while enjoying a fun and informative commentary. The cars are compact enough to navigate London’s narrow cobbled lanes, which means you can drive down roads that coaches are too big for. This is the perfect way to feel like a local. www.goyonda.com
ArcelorMittal Orbit This 115m-tall observation tower, designed by Turner Prize-winning artist Sir Anish Kapoor, offers 20-mile views over Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park (p. 32) and beyond. Adventurous types can abseil to the ground or whizz down its 178m tunnel slide, which is the world’s longest. Mon-Fri 11am-5pm; Sat-Sun 10am-6pm. Adult £12.50; child £7.50. www.arcelormittalorbit.com. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2SS. T: 0333-800 8099. Off map. Station: Stratford.
Banqueting House This 17th-century building was designed by Inigo Jones for King James I, with an exquisite painted ceiling by celebrated Baroque artist Peter Paul Rubens. It is the only remaining part of the Palace of Westminster, which was destroyed by fire. Daily 10am-5pm, but call before visiting. Adult £7.20; child free. www.hrp.org.uk/banqueting-house. Whitehall, SW1A 2ER. T: 020-3166 6000. E8. Station: Westminster.
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SIGHTSEEING Battersea Park Children’s Zoo Zoo with keeper experiences, a play area and a petting farm. Attend feeding sessions throughout the day to watch animals such as otters, meerkats and monkeys. You can also see pigs, ferrets, emus, wallabies and snakes. Open daily 10am-5.30pm or dusk. Adult £9.50; child £7.50. www.batterseaparkzoo.co.uk. Battersea Park, Chelsea Bridge Gate, SW11 4NJ. T: 0207924 5826. Off map. Station: Battersea Park.
The British Library
Animal magic Over one weekend this May, ZSL London Zoo becomes even more special than usual. On Special Children’s Day (19-20 May; p. 31) you’ll find free activities designed to help children with special needs to get the most out of their visit. Kids can meet friendly, animal-costumed characters, take part in workshops in which they can plant seeds and build a ‘mini-beast hotel’. A brimming programme of live shows throughout the day includes immersive, interactive storytelling sessions about the natural world, and a chance to meet zookeepers and animals. If you think this sounds like an exclusive event, don’t worry: all visitors to the zoo this weekend are welcome to join in the family fun.
The London residence and principal workplace of the monarchy has 775 rooms. It’s closed to the public, except in summer when you can explore the stunning State Rooms. www.royalcollection. org.uk. The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria/Green Park.
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The world’s largest library has a great permanent collection as well as a programme of exhibitions. To 13 May: Listen: 140 Years of Recorded Sound. Step inside a listening booth to explore the museum’s vast collection of recordings, alongside a display discussing the impact of recorded sound since the invention of the phonograph in 1877. To 27 Aug: James Cook: The Voyages. Explore original maps, artworks and journals from Cook’s historic journeys to the Antarctic Circle, New Zealand and Australia. Mon-Thur 9.30am-8pm; Fri 9.30am-6pm; Sat 9.30am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Check for times. Admission free; charges for tours, some exhibitions and events. www.bl.uk. 96 Euston Rd, NW1 2DB. T: 0330-333 1144. C7. Station: King’s Cross.
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SIGHTSEEING Changing the Guard
Cutty Sark
Dr Johnson’s House
Watch the Changing of the Queen’s Guard on the Palace’s forecourt (except in very wet weather). During the ceremony, one regiment takes over from another. The Queen’s Guard consists of the St James’s Palace and Buckingham Palace detachments. The New Guard, which during the course of the ceremony become the Queen’s Guard, marches to Buckingham Palace from Wellington Barracks. From 10am; please check for dates. Free to attend. www.householddivision. org.uk/changing-the-guard. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria/Green Park.
This 19th-century ship is the world’s last surviving tea clipper and the fastest of its time. Explore interactive displays on deck, enjoy afternoon tea under the hull or take part in the lively programme of family-friendly events. This is an award-winning visitor attraction in Greenwich. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £13.50; child £7. Joint tickets with Royal Observatory available. www.rmg.co.uk/cuttysark. Cutty Sark, King William Walk, SE10 9HT. T: 020-8312 6608. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.
Writer Dr Samuel Johnson compiled his first English dictionary, published in 1755, in this 18th-century period home. Check for staged performances, talks and tours. Mon-Sat 11am5.30pm. Adult £7; child £3.50. www.drjohnsons house.org. 17 Gough Square, EC4A 3DE. T: 0207353 3745. D9. Station: Temple/Chancery Lane.
Chelsea Physic Garden London’s oldest botanic garden was founded in 1673 as the Apothecaries’ Garden. Admire 5,000 species of plants, including medicinal varieties and tropical plants in glasshouses. Look out for free daily tours. Sun-Fri 11am-6pm. Adult £6.10; child £4.40. www.chelseaphysicgarden.co.uk. 66 Royal Hospital Rd, SW3 4HS. T: 020-7352 5646. Off map. Station: Sloane Square.
Chiswick House & Gardens See Old Masters on display in this manor, which has neo-Palladian interiors and architecture inspired by Ancient Rome and 16th-century Italy. The 18th-century restored gardens inspired Blenheim Palace and New York’s Central Park. House Wed-Mon 10am-5pm; gardens daily 7amdusk; conservatory daily 10am-3pm. House entry adult £7.50; child free. www.chgt.org.uk. Chiswick House & Gardens, Burlington Lane, W4 2RP. T: 0208995 0508. Off map. Station: Chiswick Park.
Dennis Severs’ House Since 1979, visitors have been able to explore the home of artist Dennis Severs. Ten rooms, from the cellar to the attic, illustrate the life of a family of Huguenot silk weavers from the 17th to the 19th century. Silent Night tour Mon, Wed & Fri 5pm-9pm. Daytime tour Mon noon-2pm & Sun noon-4pm. Tickets £5-£15. www.dennissevers house.co.uk. 18 Folgate St, E1 6BX. T: 020-7247 4013. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.
Dinosaurs in the Wild This immersive, family-friendly attraction takes visitors back in time to the age of the dinosaurs. Through simulations, theatre and interactive exhibitions and sets, see prehistoric animals in cages, a dinosaur autopsy and a research station, all while learning more about these creatures. Allow approximately 90 minutes. Tue-Sun 10am4.30pm. Adult £33; child £28.50. Advance booking recommended. www.dinosaursinthewild.com. West Parkside, SE10 0BE. T: 0844-854 1355. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.
Eltham Palace & Gardens Experience the decade of decadence as you are transported back to the 1930s. It’s part showpiece of Art Deco design and part royal palace. SunFri 10am-6pm. Adults £15; child £9. www.englishheritage.org.uk/eltham. Court Yard, SE9 5QE. T: 020-8294 2548. Off map. Station: Eltham.
Fulham Palace This attractive 15th-century building was once the summer retreat of the Bishops of London. Now it’s a museum with a programme of tours. Museum, historic rooms and shop Mon-Thur 12.30pm-4.30pm; Sun & bank hols noon-5pm. Admission free, charges for special events. www.fulhampalace.org. Bishop’s Ave, SW6 6EA. T: 020-7736 3233. Off map. Station: Putney Bridge.
Go Ape Alexandra Palace A treetop obstacle course for children with ladders, bridges and zip lines at this grand palace atop a hill, which has beautiful views of London. Mon-Sun from 9am; closed 14 & 21 May. Check online for prices. www.goape. co.uk. Alexandra Palace, Alexandra Palace Way, N22 7AY. T: 0330-057 2329. Off map. Station: Alexandra Palace.
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SIGHTSEEING Go Ape Battersea Park
Handel & Hendrix in London
Houses of Parliament
Make like a monkey at this adventure playground, which is suitable for children over six and adults. Open from 9am Mon-Sun; closed 1, 8, 15 & 22 May. Please check online for prices. www.goape.co.uk. Battersea Park, SW11 4NJ. T: 0330-057 2329. Off map. Station: Battersea Park.
The former homes of the composer George Frideric Handel and guitarist Jimi Hendrix. MonSat 11am-6pm; live Baroque music every Wed and Sat, 11.30am-1.30pm. Please check online for full event details, times and prices. Adult £10; child £5. www.handelhendrix.org. 25 Brook St, W1K 4HB. T: 020-7495 1685. D6. Station: Bond Street.
See the stunning art and architecture inside this working parliament building which is also a royal palace. Tours every Sat, and Wed-Fri from 25 May to 1 Jun only. Advance: audio tour adult £18.50, child £7.50 (one child free per paying adult); guided tour adult £25.50, child £11; family guided tour adult £18.50, child free. On the day: audio tour adult £20.50, child £8.50 (one child free per paying adult); guided tour adult £28, child £12. www.parliament.uk/visit. Palace of Westminster, Parliament Square, SW1A 0AA. T: 020-7219 4114. F8. Station: Westminster.
Ham House and Gardens One of Europe’s greatest 17th-century houses. Historical tours at noon and 12.30pm; architecture tour daily at 1pm. Admission daily 10am-5pm. Adult £11.05; child £5.50. www.nationaltrust. org.uk. Ham St, Surrey, TW10 7RS. T: 020-8940 1950. Off map. Station: Richmond.
HMS Belfast Permanently moored on the River Thames, this ship is Europe’s only surviving World War II cruiser. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £17; child £8.50. www.iwm. org.uk. The Queen’s Walk, off Tooley St, SE1 2JH. T: 020-7940 6300. E11. Station: London Bridge.
The Jewel Tower Built around 1365 to house Edward III’s treasures, this is one of only two buildings left from the medieval Palace of Westminster after an 1834 fire. Don’t miss the ornate ceiling carvings. Daily 10am6pm. Adult £5; child £3. www.english-heritage.org. uk/visit/places/jewel-tower. Abingdon St, SW1P 3JX. T: 020-7222 2219. F8. Station: Westminster.
Keats House This lovely 19th-century home belonged to the Romantic poet John Keats. See his paintings, books, letters and household items, plus the engagement ring he gave to his sweetheart, Fanny Brawne. The Keats and Milton: Paradise Lost exhibition is an opportunity to see the poet’s response to one of the greatest epic poems ever written, by reading the notes he scribbled across Milton’s verse. Please check for regular literature events and free family activity days. Wed-Sun & bank hols 11am-5pm. Adult £6.50; child free. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/things-to-do/keats-house. Keats Grove, NW3 2RR. T: 020-7332 3868. Off map. Station: Hampstead.
Kensington Palace This royal residence sits in Kensington Gardens, was Princess Diana’s last home and is currently where Prince Harry and Meghan Markle reside. Don’t miss Diana: Her Fashion Story, an exhibition dedicated to the style of the ‘people’s princess’. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £23; child £11.50. www.hrp. org.uk/kensington-palace. Kensington Gardens, W8 4PX. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington/Queensway.
Kenwood On the edge of Hampstead Heath, Kenwood house with its landscaped gardens is a hidden gem. Admire Robert Adams’ interiors and an art collection made up of Rembrandts, Vermeers and Gainsboroughs. Regular family events. Daily 10am5pm. Free admission. www.english-heritage.org. uk/kenwood. Hampstead Lane, NW3 7JR. T: 0208348 1286. Off map. Station: Hampstead.
KidZania London Parents take a back seat here as kids take charge in this mini city. Three times the size of Trafalgar Square, KidZania has everything a child could want including TV and animation studios, a chocolate factory and aviation academy – there’s even a tattoo parlour. The early-years area means that younger siblings will have fun too. You’ll leave wondering why there wasn’t a KidZania when you were growing up – which is why it hosts occasional adult nights! Daily from 10am; call for closing times. Hired for private events 1-2, 8-9, 14-16 & 21-22 May. Advance: adult from £16; child from £20. On the day: adult from £18; child from £38. www.kidzania.co.uk. Westfield London Shopping Centre, Ariel Way, W12 7GA. T: 0330-131 3333. Map inset. Station: Shepherd’s Bush. 30 W H E R E LO N D O N I M AY 2018
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The London Bridge Experience & Tombs An exciting history lesson on the past of the 1,700-year-old London Bridge site. Special effects and actors bring this spine-tinglingly scary attraction to life. Tickets also include the London Tombs, under the bridge, which are in a former plague pit. Check for times, prices and special events. www.thelondonbridgeexperience.com. 2-4 Tooley St, SE1 2SY. T: 020-7403 6333. E10. Station: London Bridge.
The London Dungeon This thrilling attraction will whisk you back to the capital’s most perilous past. See, hear, feel and (ahem) smell the ‘bad old days’ as they come to life before you thanks to costumed characters. Not for small children or the faint-hearted. Joint tickets available with SEA LIFE London Aquarium, Coca-Cola London Eye, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! Please check for times and prices. www.thedungeons.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 020-7654 0809. F8. Station: Waterloo/Westminster.
The O2
Old Royal Naval College
Huge venue for entertainment and exhibitions. To 9 Sep: Dawn of Super Heroes. Take a look inside the world of DC Comics creations such as Superman, Batman, Wonder Woman and Mr Freeze, with displays of costumes, props, sets and more. From 9.30am; closed 2, 9, 16 & 23 May. Tickets £9-£18. Nissan Innovation Station. Take a virtual test drive in an electric Nissan LEAF and experience Nissan’s Motorsports Training Lab, which allows you to test your stamina and reactions against other NISMO athletes. Free. Daily noon-8pm. www.theo2.co.uk. Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2000. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.
This Baroque masterpiece, part of the Maritime Greenwich World Heritage Site, is the home of British naval training, with costumed characters and tours. Don’t miss the magnificent ceiling in the Painted Hall. During a temporary conservation project, you can see the ceiling up close on a 50-minute tour from an elevated observation deck: adult £10; child £5. Check for guided tours. There’s a museum about the history of Greenwich at the Visitor Centre. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.ornc.org. King William Walk, SE10 9NN. T: 020-8269 4799. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.
Coca-Cola London Eye This London icon is one of the world’s largest observation wheels – don’t forget to share your London Eye memories using #eyelovelondon. Joint tickets available with the SEA LIFE London Aquarium, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! Check for times and prices. www.londoneye.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. F8. Waterloo/Westminster.
ZSL London Zoo Immerse yourself in the animal kingdom at the world’s oldest scientific zoo, which is home to more than 750 species (p. 26). Highlights include a penguin beach, Asiatic lions in the Land of the Lions enclosure and endangered Sumatran tigers. Daily, bookable events include Spiders Live, Morning with the Gibbons and Giraffe High Tea, while the ‘Junior Keeper for a Day’ package allows visitors to meet and feed a variety of animals. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £27.04; child £20. www.zsl. org/zsl-london-zoo. Regent’s Park, NW1 4RY. T: 020-7722 3333. C6. Station: Regent’s Park.
Madame Tussauds Celebrated home of life-sized wax figures depicting famous people from the worlds of entertainment, politics, sport and history, from the Queen to Adele. Don’t miss the permanent Star Wars exhibition, which features 11 sets from the iconic films; a 5.5m-high animatronic head in Kong: Skull Island and ‘Tom Hearty’, a new model of actor Tom Hardy with a heartbeat. Other recent additions include Mo Farah and Michael Fassbender. Joint tickets available with SEA LIFE London Aquarium, London Dungeon, CocaCola London Eye and Shrek’s Adventure! Please check for times. Adult £35; child £30. www.madametussauds.com/london. Marylebone Rd, NW1 5LR. T: 0871-894 3000. C6. Station: Baker Street.
The Monument This beautiful stone column standing in the heart of the City was built in 1677 to commemorate the 1666 Great Fire of London. Climb the 311 steps to its observation gallery. Daily 9.30am-5.30pm. Adult £5; child £2.50. Joint tickets with the Tower Bridge Exhibition available. www.themonument. org.uk. Monument St, EC3R 6BD. T: 020-7626 2717. E10. Station: Monument. www.wheretraveler.com 31
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SIGHTSEEING 18 Stafford Terrace
Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park
Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew
This house gives a fascinating insight into the personal lives of Punch cartoonist Edward Linley Sambourne, his wife Marion, their two children and their live-in servants, who lived here from 1875. A highlight is the costumed actor-led tour every Saturday, on which you’ll meet interesting characters including Mrs Sambourne or her parlour maid Mrs Reffell for a dramatic account based on old diaries. Wed, Sat-Sun pre-booked tours 11am, or drop-in 2pm-5.30pm; late tour from 7pm on third Wed of each month. Adult from £7; child from £5. www.rbkc.gov.uk. 18 Stafford Terrace, W8 7BH. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.
This park was previously the site of the London 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games, this park includes an aquatics centre and Anish Kapoor’s ArcelorMittal Orbit observation tower (p. 24). To 7 May: George Irvin’s Character Funfair. This funfair in the park features popular TV characters, plus at Stratford Waterfront you can ride the rollercoaster, take a spin on the carousel and jump in a dodgem. Please check website for sporting events. Park open 24 hours daily. Admission free. www.queen elizabetholympicpark.co.uk. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2ST. T: 0800-072 2110. Off map. Station: Stratford.
Better known as Kew Gardens, this botanical research centre and World Heritage Site contains plants from across the globe, with Victorian tropical greenhouses and a Chinese pagoda. The treetop walkway offers great views. Following a comprehensive, five-year refurbishment, the Temperate House reopens on 5 May – the biggest Victorian glasshouse in the world houses 10,000 temperate plants (p. 22). Daily from 10am, please check for closing times. Adult £17; child £5; charges for special exhibitions. www.kew.org. Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 3AB. T: 020-8332 5655. Off map. Station: Kew Gardens.
The Royal Institution of Great Britain
THE QUEEN’S GALLERY BUCKINGHAM PALACE
Grade I-listed Georgian building housing a museum about the institution’s 15 Nobel Prize-winning scientists. Visit its free Faraday Museum and see scientists at work. Check the website for its programme of talks. Mon-Fri 8am-6pm. Admission free; charges for talks. www.rigb.org. 21 Albemarle St, W1S 4BS. T: 020-7409 2992. E6. Station: Green Park.
The Royal Mews Built by John Nash in 1825, this beautiful part of Buckingham Palace houses the Queen’s vehicles and horses, including the Diamond Jubilee State Coach. Witness daily life and learn about the mews’ history. Mon-Sun 10am-5pm; closed 26 May and 2 & 9 Jun. Adult £11; child £6.40. www.royalcollection.org.uk/visit/royalmews. Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 1QH. T: 0303-123 7302. F6. Station: Victoria.
The Royal Observatory The home of Greenwich Mean Time and London’s only planetarium, which has regular astronomy workshops and Observatory tours. Learn about time in the Peter Harrison Galleries and watch planetarium shows throughout the day. The Sky Tonight. Daily planetarium show that explores the Moon, constellations, planets and deep space objects: adult £8; child £5.50. Meridian Line and Observatory daily 10am-5pm. Adult £10; child £6.50. www.rmg.co.uk. Blackheath Ave, SE10 8XJ. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich/ Maze Hill/Cutty Sark.
SEA LIFE London This is one of Europe’s largest aquariums with 500 species of global marine life and walk-through tank tunnels, including a glass walkway above a school of sharks. You can also snorkel with sharks (£130 including admission), while the new Rainforest Adventure attraction is your chance to see snapping turtles and the world’s largest species of spider. Please check for times and prices. Joint tickets available with Coca-Cola London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! www.sealife. co.uk/london. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0333-321 2001. F8. Station: Westminster/Waterloo.
Shrek’s Adventure!
8 DECEMBER 2017 – 13 MAY 2018
www.royalcollection.org.uk +44 (0)303 123 7301
Ride the magical 4D ‘DreamWorks Tours’ bus to step into live actor fairytale-themed shows, where you can meet the characters from the much-loved films. Joint tickets with the Coca-Cola London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and SEA LIFE London Aquarium available. Please check for times. Adult £27.50; child £22. www.shreks adventure.com. Riverside Building, County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-221 2837. F8. Station: Westminster/Waterloo.
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SIGHTSEEING St James’s Palace
The View from The Shard
Warner Bros. Studio Tour London
One of London’s oldest palaces, constructed in the 14th century and home to royalty for three centuries. Palace and house closed to the public. www.royal. gov.uk. Marlborough Rd, SW1A 1BS. E7. Station: St James’s Park.
Ascend the tallest building in Western Europe in a high-speed lift. At 309m up, on a clear day you can see as far as Windsor – and if you cannot see four major landmarks you can ask to visit the sight again for free. There are two viewing platforms. Alternatively, you can make a night of it at one of the regular silent discos that take place each month. 12 & 19 May, from 10pm (£37.50). Look out for other special events. Mon-Sun 10am-10pm; open from noon on 15 May. Advance adult £22.95, child £16.95; on the day adult £30.95, child £24.95. www.theview from theshard.com. 32 London Bridge St, SE1 9SG. T: 0844-499 7111. E10. Station: London Bridge.
Explore behind the scenes of the legendary Harry Potter films in The Making of Harry Potter tour. Visitors can witness iconic sets including the Great Hall, Hagrid’s Hut, Diagon Alley and a recreation of Platform 9¾. It’s a fascinating insight into filmmaking. To 23 Sep: The Goblet of Fire. See the goblet as it returns to the Great Hall for the first time since filming ended, alongside costumes and props from the fourth film. Please check for times. Adult £41; child £33. Booking essential. www.wbstudiotour.co.uk. Studio Tour Drive, Leavesden, Hertfordshire, WD25 7LS. T: 0845084 0900. Off map. Station: Euston to Watford Junction, then shuttle bus.
St Katharine Docks This central London marina dates back to the 11th century and is tucked away by the Tower of London. The vibrant waterside destination is lined with regular markets, shops, galleries such as Artopia and The Alexander Miles Gallery, and restaurants including CAU, Tom’s Kitchen, Bravas Tapas and Emilia’s Crafted Pasta. www.skdocks. co.uk. 50 St Katharine’s Way, E1W 1LA. T: 0207264 5287. Off map. Station: Tower Hill.
St Martin-in-the-Fields Landmark Palladian church with tours, a brassrubbing centre, live classical music (some free) and an alfresco café in its courtyard. Holy Communion given daily and classical music performed weekly by candlelight. Mon-Fri 8.30am-6pm; Sat-Sun 9am6pm; closed 9.45am-11.15am on 17 May. Admission free; brass rubbing from £4.50. www.stmartin-inthe-fields.org. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 0207766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
St Paul’s Cathedral Sir Christopher Wren’s 300-year-old cathedral has stunning mosaics. Climb up the dome to the Whispering Gallery and a further 271 steps to the Golden Gallery for a classic London panorama. Then head down to the crypt, with its monuments to Wren and Lord Nelson. The price of admission also includes a multimedia guide and tours, subject to availability on the day. Mon-Sat 8.30am-4.30pm. Adult £18; child £8. www.stpauls.co.uk. St Paul’s Churchyard, EC4M 8AD. T: 020-7246 8350. D9/10. Station: St Paul’s.
Tower Bridge Exhibition This breathtaking bridge, designed in 1884, is one of London’s most famous landmarks (not to be confused with its less grand, but much older neighbour, London Bridge). You can also tour the engine rooms with a knowledgeable guide and do yoga on the glass walkways, 42m above the River Thames. Joint tickets with The Monument available. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Adult £9.80; child £4.20. Check for bridge lift times. www.tower bridge.org.uk. Tower Bridge Rd, SE1 2UP. T: 020-7403 3761. E11. Station: Tower Hill.
Tower of London This historic landmark includes the Bloody Tower, Traitors’ Gate and the Jewel House, home of the Crown Jewels. Enjoy free guided tours by ‘Beefeaters’ (Yeoman Warders). Book ahead online to attend the nightly Ceremony of the Keys, which dates back to 1340 (tickets are free). Tue-Sat 9am5.30pm; Sun-Mon 10am-5.30pm. Adult £26.80; child £12.70. www.hrp.org.uk/tower-of-london. Tower Hill, EC3N 4AB. T: 0844-482 7799. E11. Station: Tower Hill.
Up at The O2 This unforgettable, 90-minute experience will take you on an uplifting expedition across the roof of The O2. From the viewing platform at the top you can enjoy spectacular 360-degree views of the River Thames, Emirates Air Line cable car, Canary Wharf and far beyond. Please check for times and wheelchair access. From £30. www.theo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2680. Off map. Station: North Greenwich. www.wheretraveler.com 33
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SIGHTSEEING Wellington Arch
WWT London Wetland Centre
Climb to the galleries for views over the Royal Parks. Joint tickets available with Apsley House. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £5; child £3. www.english-heritage. org.uk. Apsley Way, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7JZ. T: 020-7930 2726. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
This 104-acre wildlife reserve has a Water’s Edge Café overlooking lakes, ponds and gardens which are home to more than 100 species of rare and wild birds. Visitors can watch the otters and birds being fed every day, while there are also daily ‘Spotlight’ talks on various subjects. To 26 May: Early Bird Openings. The hides open early at 8.30am every Saturday, for prime bird watching. Daily 9.30am-5.30pm. Adult £12.72; child £7.72. www.wwt.org.uk/ wetland-centres/london. Queen Elizabeth’s Walk, SW13 9WT. T: 020-8409 4400. Off map. Station: Barnes.
Westminster Abbey Consecrated in 1065, this is the crowning and burial site of English monarchs. Mon-Fri 9.30am-4.30pm; Sat 9am-4pm. Wed late opening 4.30pm-7pm, with half-price entry. Adult £22; child £9. www.westminster-abbey.org. 20 Dean’s Yard, SW1P 3PA T: 020-7222 5152. F7. Station: Westminster/St James’s Park.
SEE FURTHER THAN THE EYE CAN SEE
RIVER TRIPS Circular Cruise Westminster Circular Cruise Westminster operates a hop-on, hop-off sightseeing service from Westminster Pier. Boats depart every 40 minutes for Embankment, Festival, Bankside and St Katharine’s Piers (for the Tower of London), returning non-stop to Westminster Pier. To 12 May, daily 11am-5pm; from 13 May, daily 11am-6.30pm. Adult single £10, return £14; child single £5, return £7. www.circularcruise.london. Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7936 2033. F8. Station: Westminster.
City Cruises Daily guided sightseeing tours on the River Thames between Westminster, London Eye, Tower and Greenwich piers. River Red Rover is an all-day hop-on, hop-off sightseeing service. The London Showboat cabaret cruise departs from Westminster Pier and includes a four-course meal with live music, daily from 7.30pm. Other cruises also available. Please check the website for times and prices. www.citycruises.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7740 0400.
London Eye River Cruise Live commentary on a 40-minute sightseeing river cruise. Mon-Fri 11.45am-4.45pm; Sat-Sun 10.45am-7.45pm. Adult £13.15; child £6.50. Discounted joint tickets with the London Eye available. www.londoneye.com/river-cruise. London Eye Pier, South Bank, SE1 7PB. T: 0871781 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.
MBNA Thames Clippers The fastest and most frequent fleet on the River Thames, with departures from London piers every 20 minutes. The boats set off from 22 piers across the capital. River Roamer hop-on and hop-off advance adult £16.30, child £8.15; on the day adult £19.50, child £9.75; children under five travel free. www.mbnathamesclippers.com. T: 020-7001 2200.
Thames River Services This hop-on, hop-off service features live audio commentary. Departs from Westminster Pier to Greenwich 10am-4pm; from Greenwich to Westminster via St Katharines 11am-5pm. Please check for prices (35 per cent online discount Mon-Fri). www.thamesriverservices.london. Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7930 4097. F8. Station: Westminster.
Thamesjet
TICKETS AVAILABLE FROM YOUR CONCIERGE Open every day from 10am | London Bridge www.theviewfromtheshard.com
Try Thames Rush, a 50-minute adrenaline-fuelled experience that’s the most extreme ride on the river. You will see iconic sights including the Houses of Parliament and Elizabeth Tower that houses Big Ben, the London Eye, the Shard and HMS Belfast. Departs from Westminster Pier. From 10am, but depends on the tide so please check for times. Minimum height requirement 1.35m/4ft 5in. Adult from £39; child from £29. www.thamesjet.com. Various departure points. T: 020-7740 0400. F8. Station: Westminster.
TOURS & GUIDED WALKS BEE Midtown Guided Walks More than 100 themed, 45-minute free tours around Bloomsbury and Holborn. Most walks do not require pre-booking. Walks depart at either 1pm or 5.30pm from one of the four meeting points in the area. www.bee-midtown.org.
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SIGHTSEEING Big Bus Tours
Kia Oval Tours
The London Helicopter Tour
Daily sightseeing trips aboard a fleet of open-top double-decker buses. Tickets are valid for 24 hours. A one-day orientation tour includes three walking tours. Adult £35; child £18. www.bigbustours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7808 6753. Station: Victoria.
Tour of the famous ground, home of Surrey County Cricket Club since 1845 and a regular venue for England matches. See the architecture, history and famous sporting faces. Check for times and prices. www.kiaoval.com. T: 020-3946 0100. Off map.
Discover the capital from the unique perspective of a helicopter, with its uninterrupted views. Departing from London’s only heliport, in Battersea, you will glide above the River Thames, taking in iconic landmarks including the Tower of London, St Paul’s Cathedral, Buckingham Palace and The Shard. Choose from the 12-minute Buzz, 18-minute Sights or 30-minute Max tour – or be brave and opt for an 18-minute ‘open door’ ride (£400 per person). Prices start from £150 per seat for a shared tour. www.thelondon helicopter.com. The POD Building, Bridges Court, SW11 2RE. T: 020-7887 2626. Off map. Station: Clapham Junction.
Big Bus Walking Tours
London Chocolate Tours
Sample truffles and ganaches in Mayfair’s finest Enjoy a 90-minute historic and royal guided walk chocolatiers. Booking essential. Sun 12.30pm; tours from Trafalgar Square, along Carlton Gardens, Where the London last two hours 30 minutes. £15 for Where London 118w x 190h Mall and through St James’s Park to Horse Guards readers (usually £39). Departs from Green August Parade, taking in areas which can’t be reached by Park Station, exit closest to The Ritz London. bus. Departs from bus stop 15 at Trafalgar Square. www.tourguides.org.uk. Green Park Tube station. Free with Big Bus London Tour tickets. Daily 11am. T: 020-8526 7755. Station: Green Park. Where London HalfE6. Page www.bigbustours.com. Depart from Big Bus stop 15, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7808 6753. Station: Charing Cross.
Capital Taxi Tours A Blue Badge or City of London qualified guide drives you around in a taxi for up to five people. Choose from London tours by day or night, trips outside the city and themed tours including one with a Doctor Who theme – on which you’ll see a Tardis and locations from the TV series. There’s even a tour for fans of TV’s Downton Abbey. Prices vary and are per taxi. www.capitaltaxitours.co.uk. Departure points vary. T: 020-8590 3621.
City of London Guides Walks A variety of themed walks not offered by other companies, focusing on everything from Fleet Street to Smithfield Market and several City gardens, all within London’s historic Square Mile. Prices range from free to £12.50. www.cityof londonguides.com. Departure points vary.
ORDER, ORDER Book your tour today
Evan Evans The oldest and largest sightseeing company in London has been accompanying visitors on city tours and out-of-town excursions since 1930. Visit everywhere from Warwick Castle and Stratfordupon-Avon to Stonehenge and Bath, as well as the London sights. Please check for times and prices. www.evanevanstours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7950 1777.
Golden Tours From day excursions to overnight city breaks, the London expert offers quality tour experiences from London to popular locations such as Bath, Stonehenge, Windsor Castle and Leeds Castle. The company offers an unrivalled range of tours and services. Please check for times and prices. www.goldentours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039.
Golden Tours Open-Top Bus Tours See the sights aboard an open-top bus. The Essential Tour includes a live, English-speaking guided, or there are multilingual audio commentary tours, during which you can hop-on and hop-off the bus. One-day, 24-, 48- and 72-hour tickets. Please check for prices. www.goldentours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039.
Jack the Ripper Tour Blue Badge Guide Richard Jones of London Walking Tours devised these popular, two-hour walks in 1982, offering an intriguing look at the infamous serial killer Jack the Ripper. Numbers are limited in order to give participants a better experience. Booking essential. Daily 7pm from outside Exit 4 of Aldgate East Station. £10. www.jack-the-ripper-tour.com. Aldgate East Underground station. T: 020-8530 8443. Off map. Station: Aldgate East.
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SIGHTSEEING London Horror Tours
London Tailored Tours
Neverland Children’s Tours
Be spooked by ghost stories and tales of Jack the Ripper, Sweeney Todd and the Krays on tours run by the actor and entertainer Dr Jack. Please visit its Facebook page for more information, and call for times and prices. Departure points vary. T: 07722-247660.
Private tours for small groups, run by Londoners. Themed tours include Borough Market, Harry Potter, London Sports, Girls Day Out and A Royal Morning in London. Please check for times and prices. www.londontailoredtours.com. T: 020-3289 0542.
Neverland Children’s Tours offers fully supervised activities and adventures for children aged eight and above, with the aim of making London sightseeing interactive and fun. Each guided activity is balanced by opportunities to get creative, chill out, play and meet new friends. www.neverlandchildrenstours. co.uk. International House, 24 Holborn Viaduct, EC1A 2BN. T: 020-3239 5059. D9. Chancery Lane.
London Magical Tours Award-winning provider of private and scheduled tours to London and its surroundings. Discover the UK with your own tour team including a professional guide and extra chauffeur. Guides are available in all languages. www.londonmagicaltours.com. Departure points vary. T: 0870-489 0156.
London Walks London’s oldest walking tour company offers more than 300 walks. Each takes two hours, departure points vary and there’s no need to book. Adult £10; child free when accompanied by an adult. www.walks.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7624 3978.
Original London Sightseeing Walk Ninety-minute walks depart daily from the Original London Visitor Centre, near Trafalgar Square on Cockspur Street. Choose from Changing the Guard at 10am; Rock ‘n’ Roll at 1pm or Jack the Ripper at 4pm (from The Original Tour bus stop at Tower Hill). £9 per walk, or free with an Original London Sightseeing Tour ticket. An Explore Walks Pass, which grants access to all three walks over a 48-hour period, costs £18. Alternatively, Original Tours has launched a series of additional walking tours available Fri-Sun: Picture London at 11.30am; Royal London at 2.30pm and Haunted London at 6pm. £5 each, or £10 for all three walks. www.the originaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.
The Original Tour With more than 65 years’ experience, these live and multilingual open-top guided bus tours take you to the city’s best attractions, allowing you to hop-on and hop-off at more than 80 stops. Its original 24-hour tour includes free walking tours and a Thames River cruise pass. 24-hour adult £32, child £15; 48-hour adult £42, child £20. www.theoriginaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, Trafalgar Square, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.
Royal Albert Hall Tours Take the one-hour Grand Tour of this Victorian concert hall. Tours daily 10am-4pm, except on 2, 7 & 8 May. Adult £14; child £7. www.royalalbert hall.com. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7959 0558. F4. Station: South Kensington.
Royal Opera House One of the world’s leading opera venues and also home to the Royal Ballet company. Tour behind the scenes for an insight into the venue’s history, where you may also see a production in rehearsal. Most days 10.30am; 12.30pm & 2.30pm, but please check. Adult £12; child £8.50. Tours last one hour and 15 minutes. www.roh.org.uk/visit/ tours. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
See London by Night Tour
MORE MUSIC | ART | DANCE | FUN COME AND EXPLORE R O YA L F E S T I V A L H A L L QUEEN ELIZABETH HALL PURCELL ROOM H AY W A R D G A L L E R Y
© Johnny Ladd
Ride around the West End and City in the evening for a different view of the capital. Regular departures from outside The Ritz. Tours last 90 minutes. Daily 7.30pm; 8pm; 8.30pm; 9.15pm; 9.45pm and 10.15pm. Adult £21; child £12. www.seelondonbynight.com. 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7183 4744. E6. Station: Green Park.
Shakespeare’s Globe This reconstruction of Shakespeare’s original Elizabethan Globe theatre has one of the city’s only thatched roofs, while the Sam Wanamaker Playhouse is a candlelit performance space. Tours begin every 30 minutes, Mon 9am-5pm; Tue-Sat 9am-12.30pm; Sun 9am-11.30am. Exhibition and Globe theatre tour adult £17; child £10. www.shakespearesglobe.com. 21 New Globe Walk, Bankside, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7902 1400. E10. Station: Blackfriars.
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SIGHTSEEING The Original Tour Windsor & Eton
Wembley Stadium Tours
Hever Castle and Gardens
Go behind the scenes at this famous football stadium and concert venue. The 75-minute tour takes you inside the dressing rooms and through the players’ tunnel. Have your photo taken with a replica of the FA Cup. From 10am; check for dates. Adult £22; child £14. www.wembleystadium.com/ wembley-tours. Wembley Stadium, HA9 0WS. T: 0800-169 9933. Off map. Station: Wembley Park.
Dating back to the 13th century, this castle was the childhood home of Anne Boleyn, the second wife of King Henry VIII. Daily 10.30am-6pm; castle opens noon. Adult £17.25; child £9.75. www.hever castle.co.uk. Hever, Edenbridge, Kent, TN8 7NG. T: 01732-865224. Off map. Station: Edenbridge.
Westways Carriage Horses
Fairy-tale 900-year-old castle with a moat. Grounds and garden daily 10am-6pm; castle 10.30am-5.30pm. Adult £25.50; child £17 www.leeds-castle.com. Maidstone, Kent, ME17 1PL. T: 01622-765400. Off map. Station: Victoria to Bearsted.
You will be collected from your hotel to see the sights from the comfort of a horse-drawn carriage. Tours are in either a four- or six-seater carriage with an adjustable hood depending on the weather. £475 per carriage. www.westways carriagehorses.co.uk. T: 020-8572 3155.
Yonda On a Yonda tour, you’ll feel like a real Londoner as you drive a car around the capital’s top sights – and little-known cobbled streets (p. 24). The car is fitted with technology that guides you along well-researched routes, giving turn-by-turn directions and a fun, informative commentary along the way based on your location. It can even cope with road closures, while the Congestion Charge is included in the price. Tours 90 minutes. £60 per tour in a two-seater convertible car; £95 per tour in a four-seater car, with a clear panoramic roof. www.goyonda.com. Q-Park, Park Lane, W1K 7AN. T: 020-3621 5662. E6. Station: Marble Arch.
Leeds Castle
Explore the beautiful town of Windsor and nearby Eton College, using 11 bus stops incorporating the castle grounds and following the river. Hop-on and hop-off to discover this famous market town and its centuries-old royal history – Eton College is where Princes William and Harry were educated. Departures every 30 minutes. Adult £13; child £7. Combined package with The Original Tour London (24 hours London, 24 hours Windsor) adult £45; child £22. www.theoriginaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, London, SW1Y 5BL. T: 0208877 1722. E7.
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OUT OF TOWN
Ashmolean Museum of Art and Archaeology Britain’s first public museum dates back to 1683, when the politician Elias Ashmole left his collection to the University of Oxford. See archaeological artefacts, pre-Raphaelite paintings, Egyptian mummies and Oliver Cromwell’s death mask. Tue-Sun & bank hols 10am-5pm; last Fri of each month 10am-8pm. Free admission; charges for special exhibitions. www.ashmolean.org. Beaumont St, Oxford, OX1 2PH. T: 01865-278000. Off map. Station: Paddington to Oxford.
Blenheim Palace See three centuries of treasures in magnificent State Rooms at this Baroque palace, the birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill. The palace is set in 2,100 acres of ‘Capability’ Brown parkland. Palace daily 10.30am-5.30pm; park daily 9am-6.30pm or dusk; formal gardens daily 10am-6pm; closed 22-24 May. Adult £26; child £14.50. www.blenheimpalace.com. Woodstock, Oxfordshire, OX20 1PP. T: 01993-810530. Off map. Station: Paddington to Oxford, then bus S3.
Chartwell The family home of wartime Prime Minister Sir Winston Churchill was bought by the National Trust and maintained on behalf of the nation, while Churchill and his wife were still living in it. Mon-Fri 11.30am-5pm; Sat-Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £14.40; child £7.20. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/chartwell. Mapleton Road, Westerham, Kent, TN16 1PS. T: 01732-868381. Off map. Station: Edenbridge, then taxi.
Hampton Court Palace Once the favourite royal residence of King Henry VIII, this Tudor palace and 300-year-old maze is set in 60 acres of parkland (p. 38). Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £22.70; child £11.35. www.hrp.org.uk/hamptoncourt-palace. Hampton Court, East Molesey, Surrey, KT8 9AU. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Hampton Court.
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SIGHTSEEING Palace of Holyroodhouse The Queen’s official residence in Scotland stands at the end of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile, against the spectacular backdrop of Arthur’s Seat. Daily 9.30am-6pm; closed 15-26 May. Adult £14; child £8.10. www.royalcollection.org.uk/visit/palaceof-holyroodhouse. Canongate, The Royal Mile, Edinburgh, EH8 8DX. T: 0303-123 7306. Off map. Station: Edinburgh Waverley.
Stonehenge The world’s most famous stone circle is more than 5,000 years old. Daily 9.30am-7pm. Adult £19.50; child £11.70. www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/ places/stonehenge. Amesbury, Wiltshire, SP4 7DE. T: 0870-333 1181. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Salisbury, then bus or taxi.
Watts Gallery Artists’ Village An Arts and Crafts gem in the Surrey Hills, with stunning Victorian paintings and sculptures. Tue-Sun & banks hols 11am-5pm. Adult £11.50 (Tue £5.75); child free. www.wattsgallery.org.uk. Down Lane, Compton, Surrey, GU3 1DQ. T: 01483810235. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Guildford, then bus or taxi.
Windsor Castle
Magnificent Hampton Court Palace – famed for being King Henry VIII’s favourite palace – makes for a great day out, and there’s now more reason to go. Horrible Histories (from 26 May; p. 37) sees an outdoor stage added to the palace gardens, where visitors can watch the hour-long show, Gorgeous Georgians and Vile Victorians. As you might be able to tell from the title of this show, Horrible Histories doesn’t take itself too seriously. This education organisation presents history and science in hilarious, silly ways. The play begins at the end of England’s Stuart monarchy, telling the story of all four King Georges, before skipping to the Victorian era.
HAMPTON COURT PALACE © ISTOCK; BOOK COVERS COURTESY OF HORRIBLE HISTORIES
The Queen’s weekend home and the world’s oldest inhabited castle, which will host the wedding of Prince Harry and Meghan Markle on Sat 19 May. Daily 9.30am-5.15pm; closed 18-19 May. Adult £21.20; child £12.30. www.royalcollection.org.uk. Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 1NJ. T: 0303-123 7304. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Central or Windsor & Eton Riverside.
Fit for a king
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London looks amazing, beautifully lit up at night
®
See ...for shops, restaurants, theatre bookings
By Night
and sightseeing activities in the area
They would be happy to assist you so that you can enjoy the very best that London has to offer in the time that you have to spend with us
where
Departing daily from Green Park bus stop next to the Ritz Hotel
at 19:30, 20:00, 20:30, 21:15, 21:45 and 22:15 Spectacular live guided tours of London by night
Adult - £21 Child - £12
Private tours available for groups day or night
Tel: 0844 504 3285 +44 (0)20 7183 4744
www.seelondonbynight.com www.wheretraveler.com 39
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Museums at Night at The Museum of London
A century of nights out
The late shift Museums at Night is changing the capital’s cultural scene, says Neil Simpson Are you a night owl? Then you’ll flap your wings with joy to hear that Museums at Night is back (16-19 May). This UK-wide festival puts a fun spin on cultural adventures, by encouraging hotspots across the country to open up after dark. If your dream night is a Highball with a Hockney, then you’ve come to the right city. As well as initiating late-night opening hours at a range of London sites, Museums at Night organises more than 700 events. The Bank of England Museum reveals hidden treasures from its collection in the free event, Banknotes and Bullion (18 May), while a team of experts are on hand to discuss the technology of money. On the same evening, the London Transport Museum in Covent Garden is pulling a late shift in aid of Swinging Sixties. In a celebration of this high-spirited decade, the museum has arranged talks, tours and workshops about the 1960s, while a DJ will spin a Sixties soundtrack as you sip a classic cocktail or two. The event shares its weekend with Prince Harry and Meghan’s big day, so why not
combine the two at the Household Cavalry Museum? This museum, which is dedicated to the Queen’s Mounted Bodyguard, stays open for a spot of royal romance; its guided tour Royal Lives, Royal Wives (17 May) looks at the marriages (and affairs) that have defined the British monarchy. From Chichester to Lincoln, more than 500 museums, galleries, libraries and historical sites are joining the festival, so even if you’re not in London there are plenty of ways you can get involved. The ambassador for Museums at Night is BBC Radio presenter Lauren Laverne, who says: ‘How exciting to experience British culture in a new way – at night-time, when the lights go down and our imaginations are in charge! The weekend is a fantastic opportunity for museums and galleries to get together to put on events that allow us to celebrate London’s heritage in new and exciting ways.’ If your visit finishes before Museums at Night, don’t despair: this late-night cultural extravaganza takes place twice a year and will return in October. www.museumsatnight.org.uk
The Museum of London is taking Museums at Night to the next level, by dedicating an entire exhibition to the theme of London Nights (from 11 May). This evocative and fascinating display invites you to discover 100 years of late-night London through photographs. Behold an eerie-looking Leicester Square in 1909, find out what partygoers got up to in the early hours of 1960s London, and see people sleeping in the Underground during World War II (below). The work of almost 60 photographers is on show, while the gallery is designed to echo the transformation of the city as night falls. www.museumoflondon.org.uk
MUSEUMS AT NIGHT © VISIT LONDON.COM/JON REID/MUSEUM OF LONDON; EAST END UNDERGROUND STATION SHELTER, 1940 © BILL BRANDT/MUSEUM OF LONDON
MUSEUMS & GALLERIES | THE GUIDE
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Don’t be a tourist Be an explorer Take a leap through time and space on the world-famous Meridian Line at the Royal Observatory, Greenwich.
Royal Observatory | Cutty Sark | National Maritime Museum | The Queen’s House
Only 20 minutes from central London Cutty Sark (Zone 2)
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81
MUSEUMS Arsenal Stadium Tours & Museum
Clink Prison Museum
Fashion and Textile Museum
In this former prison dating back to 1144, hands-on exhibits reveal London’s penal past and instruments of torture. It’s said to be haunted by the ghosts of former inmates. Mon-Fri 10am-6pm; Sat-Sun 10am-7.30pm. Adult £7.50; child £5.50. www.clink. co.uk. 1 Clink St, SE1 9DG. T: 020-7403 0900. E10. Station: London Bridge.
Museum highlighting contemporary fashion, textiles and jewellery from 1947 to the present day. From 25 May: Orla Kiely: A Life in Pattern. Celebrating one of Ireland’s most successful fashion exports. Tue-Wed & Fri-Sat 11am-6pm; Thur 11am-8pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £9.90; child free. www.ftmlondon.org. 83 Bermondsey St, SE1 3XF. T: 020-7407 8664. F11. Station: London Bridge.
Football fans can enjoy a self-guided audio tour for a sneak peek inside the players’ changing rooms and tunnel and the Physio Room, or a Legends Tour led by ex-Arsenal players. Self-guided tours Mon-Sat 9.30am-6pm; Sun 10am-4pm; Legends Tour from 11am (check for dates). Museum The Design Museum open Mon-Sat 10.30am-6.30pm; One of the world’s leading museums Sun 10.30am-4.30pm; check for of modern design and architecture. match-related closures. Self-guided: Chelsea FC is the To 12 Aug: Hope to Nope: Graphics adult £22; child £14. Legends: adult only London football and Politics 2008-2018. The role of from £40; child from £20.75. Museum team to have won graphic design in modern politics. only: adult £10; child £7. www.arsenal. the Champions Daily 10am-6pm. First Fri every month com/tours. Emirates Stadium, Hornsey League 10am-8pm. Admission free; charges Rd, N5 1BU. T: 020-7619 5000. Off map. for exhibitions. www.designmuseum.org. Station: Arsenal. 224-238 Kensington High St, W8 6AG. T: 020-3862 Bank of England Museum 5900. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington. Explore the story of the bank from its foundation The Fan Museum in 1694, to its status today as the UK’s central Unusual museum dedicated to the art of the fan, with bank. See its books, silver, paintings, coins and examples from the 12th century to the present day. photographs, plus modern gold bars and fun To 6 May: Early Printed Fans. Display activities for kids. Mon-Fri 10am-5pm; closed bank bringing together a diverse range of the first hols. Admission free. www.bankofengland.co.uk/ printed fans. Tue-Sat 11am-5pm; Sun noon-5pm. museum. Threadneedle St, EC2R 8AH. T: 020-7601 Adult £4; child £3. www.thefanmuseum.org.uk. 5545. D10. Station: Bank. 12 Crooms Hill, SE10 8ER. T: 020-8305 1441. Benjamin Franklin House Off map. Station: Cutty Sark. This townhouse is the last surviving home of America’s Founding Father. Mon noon, 1pm, 2pm, 3.15pm and 4.15pm; historical shows Wed-Sun noon, 1pm, 2pm, 3.15pm and 4.15pm. Architectural tour: adult £6; child free. Historical shows: adult £8; child free. www.benjaminfranklinhouse.org. 36 Craven St, WC2N 5NF. T: 020-7925 1405. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
The Foundling Museum Britain’s original home for abandoned children was founded in 1739 by Thomas Coram, William Hogarth and George Frideric Handel. Check for exhibitions and events. Tue-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £8.25; child free. www.foundling museum.org.uk. 40 Brunswick Square, WC1N 1AZ. T: 020-7841 3600. C8. Station: Russell Square.
The Garden Museum Located in a historic church, this is the resting place of plant hunters John Tradescant Senior and Junior. There’s a replica 17th-century knot garden. To 22 Jul: Cedric Morris: Artist Plantsman. See the late botanist’s expressionist paintings of flowers. Sun-Fri 10.30am-5pm; Sat 10.30am-4pm. Closed first Mon of the month. Adult £10; child £2.50 (when accompanied by an adult). www.gardenmuseum. org.uk. Lambeth Palace Rd, SE1 7LB. T: 020-7401 8865. F5. Station: Lambeth North.
Unrivalled collection of antiquities, plus permanent displays and treasures including ones from Roman Empire, Ancient Egypt, Medieval Europe and India. To 29 Jul: Rodin and the Art of Ancient Greece. Works by the French master sculptor are displayed alongside the Ancient Greek pieces that inspired him. Sat-Thur 10am-5.30pm; Fri 10am-8.30pm. Admission free; charges for some exhibitions. www.britishmuseum.org. Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8299. D7/8. Station: Russell Square.
Charles Dickens Museum The former home of novelist Charles Dickens, where he wrote classics including Oliver Twist. Tue-Sun & bank hols 10am-5pm; open until 8pm once a month, check for dates. Adult £9; child £4. www.dickensmuseum.com. 48 Doughty St, WC1N 2LX. T: 020-7405 2127. C8. Station: Russell Square.
Chelsea FC Stadium Museum & Tours Interactive tour of Chelsea FC. Tours daily, every 30 minutes 10am-3pm; check for closures and monthly ex-players tours with past stars (from £70). Museum open daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £22 (museum only £11); child £15 (£9). www.chelseafc. com/tours. Stamford Bridge, SW6 1HS. T: 0871984 1955. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.
Churchill War Rooms Explore the fortified secret bunker and the Cabinet War Rooms beneath Westminster, where Sir Winston Churchill worked during World War II. Daily 9.30am6pm. Adult £21; child £10.50. www.iwm.org.uk. Clive Steps, King Charles St, SW1A 2AQ. T: 0207930 6961. F7. Station: Westminster.
Enamel adventures Wellcome Collection, the health and medicine museum in Euston, launches a new exhibition, TEETH (from 17 May; p. 46). In what is thought to be the first display dedicated to the dental profession, visitors are invited to contemplate everything from the evolution of dental care and education, to vampires, dentures made from hippopotamus ivory and the legend of the tooth fairy. The exhibition pauses at various moments in oral hygiene history to showcase the curious likes of Napoleon’s toothbrush, a dental treatment set used by Queen Victoria’s dentist and the massive mouth models used by Dutch students before testing their skills on humans. A display of drills indicates that this probably isn’t the top choice for those who fear the dentist, but TEETH will more than likely leave everyone else with a winning smile.
A FASHIONABLE DENTIST’S PRACTICE EXTRACTS HEALTHY TEETH FROM POOR CHILDREN TO CREATE DENTURES FOR THE WEALTHY IN THIS COLOURED ETCHING BY T ROWLANDSON, 1787, COURTESY OF WELLCOME COLLECTION
The British Museum
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Open up to Wimbledon Want to feel the weight of the Championships trophies? Interested in watching an interactive ghost of John McEnroe? Keen to cast your eyes over Roger Federer’s title-winning whites? Then step inside the multi-dimensional journey that is Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum. With complimentary audio guides in 10 languages, learn about the history of the sport, see the Championship trophies, and the amazing new Virtual Reality experience. You may also take the behind the scenes tour of the grounds and explore the home of tennis, including Centre Court, for a truly inspirational visit. Supported by
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New Virtual Reality experience Open Daily: 10:00am until 5:00pm Nearest Underground: Southfields The Museum Building, The All England Lawn Tennis & Croquet Club, Church Road, Wimbledon, London SW19 5AE
T: 020 8946 6131 wimbledon.com/museum
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES The Guards Museum
Household Cavalry Museum
London Film Museum
Discover the history, stories and regimental heritage of the five regiments of the Foot Guards: Grenadier, Coldstream, Scots, Irish and Welsh Guards, which today watch over the Royal Palaces. It’s a great insight into the Changing the Guard ceremony. Daily 10am-4pm; 8-11 May 10am-1pm; closed 26 May. Adult £8; child free. www.theguards museum.com. Wellington Barracks, Birdcage Walk, SW1E 6HQ. T: 020-7414 3271. D5. Station: St James’s Park/Westminster.
See the ceremonial duties and roles of the Household Cavalry Regiments. Changing the Queen’s Life Guard on Horse Guards Parade Mon-Sat 11am, Sun 10am. Museum daily 10am-6pm. Adult £8; child £6. www.household cavalrymuseum.co.uk. Horse Guards, Whitehall, SW1A 2AX. T: 020-7930 3070. E7/8. Station: Westminster/Embankment.
Bond in Motion is the largest official exhibition of James Bond vehicles from the films, including the Aston Martin DB5. Sun-Fri 10am-6pm; Sat 10am7pm. Adult £14.50; child £9.50. www.londonfilm museum.com. 45 Wellington St, WC2E 7BN. T: 020-7836 4913. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Horniman Museum & Gardens Collection based upon the adventurous Victorian tea trader, Frederick John Horniman, including an aquarium and big selection of musical instruments, plus gardens and a farmers’ market every Saturday morning. To 9 Sep: Coral: Fabric of the Reef. Artist Karen Dodd uses woollen fabric to draw attention to coral and coral reefs, inspired by the Horniman collections. To 28 Oct: Colour: The Rainbow Revealed. An interactive, child-friendly exhibition which reveals how colour affects and influences the world around us. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Admission free; charges for aquarium and special exhibitions. www.horniman.ac.uk. 100 London Rd, SE23 3PQ. T: 020-8699 1872. Off map. Station: Forest Hill.
House of Illustration The UK’s only public gallery dedicated solely to illustration, founded by Sir Quentin Blake. To 13 May: Made in North Korea: Everyday Graphics from the DPRK. Exhibition of North Korean graphic design. Adult £7.50; child £4. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. www.houseofillustration. org.uk. 2 Granary Square, N1C 4BH. T: 020-3696 2020. C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.
Imperial War Museum Huge displays relating to conflicts. To 28 May: Age of Terror: Art Since 9/11. See artists’ responses to war and conflict since 11 September 2001. Daily 10am6pm. Admission free; charges for some special exhibitions. www.iwm. org.uk. Lambeth Rd, SE1 6HZ. T: 0207416 5000. E5. Station: Lambeth North.
London Mithraeum
On the site of Bloomberg’s latest European headquarters, this showcases an ancient Roman temple which was built here nearly 2,000 years ago. Tue-Sat 10am6pm; Sun & bank hols noon-5pm; Queen’s House is said first Thur of the month 10am-8pm. to be haunted, after Admission free. www.london Canadian tourists took mithraeum.com. 12 Walbrook, a photo of a ghost on EC4N 8AA. T: 020-7330 7500. the Tulip Stairs D10. Station: Bank.
Jack the Ripper Museum More than just an exploration of Jack the Ripper’s terrible crimes, within this Victorian house you’ll also discover the history of east London. Daily 9.30am-6.30pm. Adult £12; child £8. www.jackthe rippermuseum.com. 12 Cable St, E1 8JG. T: 0207488 9811. Off map. Station: Aldgate East.
Leighton House Museum Restored former home of Frederic, Lord Leighton. See the Arab Hall adorned with hundreds of tiles from the Middle East. Wed-Mon 10am-5.30pm, tour at 3pm every Wed and Sun (included in ticket price). Adult £9; child £7. www.rbkc.gov.uk. 12 Holland Park Rd, W14 8LZ. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: Kensington Olympia.
London Transport Museum Located in the Grade II-listed Flower Market, this museum displays the story of London’s transport system. Highlights include iconic red buses, the world’s first Underground steam train and a padded cell – a train carriage dating back to the 1890s. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £17.50; child free. www.lt museum.co.uk. Covent Garden Piazza, WC2E 7BB. T: 020-7379 6344. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Museum of London The world’s largest urban history museum has exhibits in nine galleries, including Roman and Medieval London, transporting you through the capital’s tumultuous history (p. 40). Check for family events. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions and walking tours. www.museumoflondon.org.uk. 150 London Wall, EC2Y 5HN. T: 020-7001 9844. D10. Station: Barbican.
Museum of London Docklands The history of the River Thames, from its time as a Roman thoroughfare to the regeneration of the Docklands area. To 9 Sep: Fighting for Empire: From Slavery to Military Service in the West India Regiments. Exhibition on the first African solider to be awarded the Victoria Cross, Samuel Hodge. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free, charges for special exhibitions. www.museumoflondon.org.uk. T: 020-7001 9844. Off map. Station: Canary Wharf.
National Maritime Museum The world’s largest maritime museum has 10 galleries. To 30 Sep: Great British Seaside. This photography exhibition surveys images captured over the past 60 years of Britain’s beach culture. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free; charges for events and exhibitions. www.rmg.co.uk. Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich.
A landmark moment
This month we’re saying happy birthday to the Royal Academy of Arts, which has reached the grand old age of 250. To celebrate, the arts centre and gallery has embarked on a bold redevelopment to make it larger, providing space for more free art displays and educational areas. Previously comprising two separate buildings, Burlington House and Burlington Gardens, both are now joined together by a ‘cultural campus’. The results of all this hard work will be revealed when Tacita Dean: Landscape becomes the first show inside the new Gabrielle Jungels-Winkler Galleries (from 19 May; p. 47). The English artist, who has made a name for herself in the video art world, celebrates landscapes she has witnessed across the globe with pieces designed especially for this particular gallery space. The highlight is the new film Antigone, a mixture of poetry and acting filmed across multiple locations, combined into a cinematographic image.
See astounding collections at this family-friendly museum, with exhibits from dinosaurs to fossils. To 28 May: Wildlife Photographer of the Year. Images from the competition covering animals and the planet. Daily 10am-5.50pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nhm.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 5BD. T: 0207942 5000. F4. Station: South Kensington.
Queen’s House This 17th-century house, an architectural masterpiece by Inigo Jones, displays a fine art collection that includes works by Gainsborough and Hogarth. Don’t miss the painted Queen’s Presence Chamber ceiling. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.rmg.co.uk/queens-house. Queen’s House, Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 0208858 4422. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark.
ROYAL ACADEMY OF ARTS © HAYES DAVIDSON
Natural History Museum
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
Let’s get digital Surely the most ambitious new exhibition in London this month is at the Victoria and Albert Museum, where The Future Starts Here is set to thrust visitors forward in time (from 12 May). It’s the first major project to be launched by the museum’s Design, Architecture and Digital department, which is lifting the lid on groundbreaking technologies. Find out about Facebook’s Aquila aircraft, which is part of the social media giant’s aim to deliver inexpensive communication to the world’s most isolated areas. Hate the gym? Then you’ll be thrilled to see Superflex’s super suits (left). The futuristic clothing company uses robotics and biomechanics to improve strength and mobility by providing an extra set of ‘muscles’ – its appearance in this exhibition underlines the shrinking gap between humans and tech. It will leave visitors debating the impact of technology on their lives.
Victoria and Albert Museum Collection spanning arts, fashion and photography. From 12 May: The Future Starts Here. Discover the innovations which are all aiming to change our worlds in the not-too-distant future. Daily 10am-5.45pm; Fri 10am-10pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.vam.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 2RL. T: 020-7942 2000. F4/5. Station: South Kensington.
Science Museum A huge museum dedicated to science, technology and medical achievements, including an IMAX theatre, which shows 3D films. Daily 10am6pm; adult-only Lates programme last Wed of every month, 6.45pm-10pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.sciencemuseum.org.uk. Exhibition Rd, SW7 2DD. T: 0333-241 4000. F4. Station: South Kensington.
Sherlock Holmes Museum Famous address dedicated to the fictional detective where, according to the novels, he lived with his friend and colleague Dr Watson from 1881 to 1904. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £15; child £10. www.sherlock-holmes.co.uk. 221b Baker St, NW1 6XE. T: 020-7224 3688. A3. Station: Baker Street.
Sir John Soane’s Museum This 19th-century townhouse and library was owned by the architect Sir John Soane. WedSun & bank hols, 10am-5pm. Check for tours and late-night opening events. Admission free. www.soane.org. 13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields, WC2A 3BP. T: 020-7405 2107. D8. Station: Holborn.
Somerset House This neo-classical, 18th-century building by the River Thames houses the famous Courtauld Gallery, Embankment Galleries, cafés and restaurants, all surrounding a large courtyard. Galleries Wed-Fri 11am-8pm; Sat-Tue 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.somersethouse.org.uk. Strand, WC2R 1LA. T: 020-7845 4600. E8. Station: Temple.
Twinings Museum The flagship store of Twinings since 1706 has a mini exhibition reflecting the company’s 300-year history. See vintage teapots and caddies. Mon-Fri 9.30am-7pm; Sat 10.30am-5.30pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Admission free. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.
The Wallace Collection The former Wallace family home displays their collection of Rococo art. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.wallacecollection.org. Hertford House, Manchester Square, W1U 3BN. T: 020-7563 9500. D6. Station: Bond Street.
Wellcome Collection Wellcome Trust’s public venue housing hundreds of fascinating artefacts relating to health and the body. From 17 May: TEETH. The evolution of our teeth (p. 42). Tue-Wed & Fri-Sat 10am-6pm; Thur 10am-10pm; Sun 11am-6pm. Admission free. www.wellcomecollection.org. 183 Euston Rd, NW1 2BE. T: 020-7611 2222. C7. Station: Euston.
Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum & Tours At the venue of the championships, the museum’s displays range from trophies and famous tennis kits. Tours of the grounds include Centre Court. Daily 10am-5pm. Museum: adult £13; child £8. Museum & Tour: adult £25; child £15. One free child with every full-price adult ticket. www.wimbledon. com/museum. All England Lawn Tennis Club, Church Rd, SW19 5AE. T: 020-8946 6131. Off map. Station: Southfields then bus 493 or a 12-minute walk.
World Rugby Museum Relaunched for 2018 following a refurbishment, this museum showcases global rugby culture and the history of Twickenham Stadium. Tue-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £12.50; child £7.50. www.worldrugby museum.com. Twickenham Stadium, Whitton Rd, Twickenham, TW2 7BA. T: 020-8892 8877. Off map. Station: Twickenham.
GALLERIES Barbican Art Gallery This Brutalist multi-arts venue has two exhibition spaces: the Art Gallery and The Curve. To 27 May: Another Kind of Life: Photography on the Margins. A collection of work from 20 photographers, exploring communities from around the world who live on the edge of society. Check for prices and opening times. www.barbican.org.uk. Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 4141. D10. Station: Barbican.
Guildhall Art Gallery Paintings collected by the City of London since the 17th century, including pre-Raphaelite masterpieces. From 11 May: Sublime Symmetry. Uncover the mathematics behind the Victorian ceramic designer William De Morgan’s intricate work. Mon-Sat 10am5pm; Sun noon-4pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk. Guildhall Yard, off Gresham St, EC2V 5AE. T: 0207332 3700. D10. Station: St Paul’s/Bank.
Hayward Gallery Home of visual arts at the Southbank Centre. From 30 May: Lee Bul. Drawing on science fiction, bioengineering and visionary architecture, as well as Japanese anime and manga. Mon, Wed & Fri-Sun 11am-7pm; Thur 11am-9pm. Free admission; charges for certain exhibitions. Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-3879 9555. E8. Station: Waterloo.
The National Gallery One of the world’s greatest galleries, with works by European masters from the 13th to the 19th centuries. To 29 Jul: Monet & Architecture. Major exhibition (p. 16). Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm. Admission free; charges for some special exhibitions. www.nationalgallery.org.uk. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7747 2885. E7. Station: Charing Cross.
Discover the glamour of ships in Ocean Liners at the V&A
SUPERFLEX BODYSUIT COURTESY OF SUPERFLEX; DUKE AND DUCHESS OF WINDSOR’S LUGGAGE © MIOTTEL MUSEUM, BERKELEY, CALIFORNIA. PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF PEABODY ESSEX MUSEUM, SALEM, MASSACHUSETTS; OCEAN LINERS IMAGE COURTESY OF THE V&A
Royal Air Force Museum National aviation museum focusing on the Royal Air Force, with more than 100 outstanding aircraft on show. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free, charges for special experiences. www.rafmuseum. org.uk. Grahame Park Way, NW9 5LL. T: 020-8205 2266. Off map. Station: Colindale.
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National Portrait Gallery One of the nation’s most prominent galleries depicting British people in paintings and photos. To 20 May: Victorian Giants: The Birth of Art Photography. Discover the pioneering work of a group of artists. Sat-Wed 10am-6pm; ThurFri 10am-9pm (regular Fri evening events). Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.npg.org.uk. St Martin’s Place, WC2H 0HE. T: 020-7312 2463. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
The Photographers’ Gallery London’s largest gallery devoted to photography. To 3 Jun: Deutsche Börse Photography Foundation Prize. Displaying the work of the four artists in this competition. Mon-Wed & Fri-Sat 10am-6pm; Thur 10am-8pm; Sun 11am-6pm. Admission free before noon, then £4; child free. www.thephotographers gallery.org.uk. 16-18 Ramillies St, W1F 7LW. T: 020-7087 9300. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
The Queen’s Gallery This smart gallery adjoining Buckingham Palace has temporary exhibitions, often sourced from 500 years of treasures from the Royal Collection. To 13 May: Charles II: Art & Power. Explores how the King reinforced his legitimacy as a monarch, after a decade of Republican rule. Daily 10am-5.30pm; closed 14 May-7 Jun. Adult £11; child £5.50. www.royalcollection.org.uk. Buckingham Palace, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7301. F7. Station: Green Park.
Visit London and see the world! Discover the treasures of world cultures, from Egyptian mummies and ancient Greek sculpture to African art and Chinese porcelain. The Museum’s audio guide helps you make the most of your visit. Find out more about the Museum’s most popular objects or take a themed tour – it’s up to you. The audio guide is available in 10 languages. britishmuseum.org Sponsored by
Royal Academy of Arts Attractive 18th-century building with RA Collection. From 19 May: Tacita Dean: Landscape. The first exhibition in the academy’s new Gabrielle Jungels-Winkler Galleries (p. 44). Sat-Thur 10am6pm; Fri 10am-10pm; check for regular special events. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.royalacademy.org.uk. 6 Burlington Gardens, Piccadilly, W1J 0BD. T: 020-7300 8000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Green Park.
Saatchi Gallery Contemporary art in a huge renovated Georgian building. To 24 Jun: Known Unknowns. A range of artists explore the darker corners of modern existence. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.saatchigallery.co.uk. Duke of York’s HQ, King’s Rd, SW3 4RY. T: 020-7811 3070. G5. Station: Sloane Square.
Tate Britain The nation’s leading collection of British art, including the world’s largest collection of works by Turner. To 27 Aug: All Too Human: Bacon, Freud and a Century of Life Painting. Celebrating painters living in Britain who strove to represent human figures. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8888. G8. Station: Pimlico.
Tate Modern World-class, international modern art in the former Bankside Power Station. To 9 Sep: Picasso 1932 – Love, Fame, Tragedy. A look at one of the most dramatic years of Picasso’s life. Sun-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri-Sat 10am-10pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Bankside, SE1 9TG. T: 020-7887 8888. E9. Station: Southwark.
Whitechapel Gallery Influential East End gallery, showcasing modern art. Tue-Sun 11am-6pm; Thur 11am-9pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.whitechapel.org. 77-82 Whitechapel High St, E1 7QX. T: 020-7522 7888. Off map. Station: Aldgate East. www.wheretraveler.com 47
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ENTERTAINMENT | THE GUIDE
Alfresco plays
A breath of fresh air As Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre reopens, don’t miss your chance to watch well-known shows under the stars. Come rain or shine, the shows must go on. Umbrellas aren’t allowed, so dress appropriately and hope for the best. When you happen upon a clear warm night, you’re in for a treat. Go early to enjoy a picnic on the lawn, or soak up the atmosphere in its fairylit outdoor restaurant. The season opens with J M Barrie’s Peter Pan (17 May-15 Jun), followed by Henry James’ The Turn of the Screw (22-30 Jun), William Shakespeare’s As You Like It (6-28 Jul) and the musical Little Shop of Horrors (3 Aug-15 Sep). Artistic director Timothy Sheader says: ‘Theatre outdoors is incredibly invigorating, but when it is created by the team we have assembled for our 2018 season, you can be sure of something extraordinary. I love watching audiences share the whole experience, from sipping Prosecco and picnicking before the show, to discovering our unique brand of storytelling.’ Peter Pan is an Olivier Award-nominated show, co-directed by Sheader and Liam Steel.
Set in World War I, it follows wounded soldiers who use their imagination to escape the reality of war in favour of pirate ships in Never Land. Suitable for all ages, it features a flying cast – courtesy of bungee jump cord – along with puppetry and a dusting of magic. Sheader directs The Turn of the Screw, a co-production with the English National Opera (ENO). Adapted from Henry James’ 1898 novel, the play follows a governess who is hired to care for orphans at a country house, before realising it’s haunted. Like all ghost stories, this one will leave you with goosebumps – even on a warm night – especially with spooky tunes by the English National Opera Orchestra. As You Like It (6-28 Jul), directed by Max Webster, features new music by Charlie Fink, the former frontman of Noah and the Whale. Finally, Little Shop of Horrors (3 Aug-15 Sep) is based on Roger Corman’s 1960 eponymous black comedy. Directed by Maria Aberg with music by composer Alan Menken, it’s about a florist shop that is on the verge of closing until the owner discovers a plant that can talk. For full listings, turn to p. 56
SHAKESPEARE’S GLOBE This reconstructed Elizabethan playhouse (above) is now in its 21st year. To celebrate, it is staging Hamlet – which was written the year the original Globe was built, in 1599. You can also catch As You Like It (from 2 May) and The Two Noble Kinsmen (from 25 May). Just like in Shakespeare’s times, eight actors give you the chance to also see three plays at the Globe before travelling on an international tour. See Twelfth Night (7, 8 & 10 May), The Taming of the Shrew (11 & 13 May) and The Merchant of Venice (14-16 May), or be part of an audience who chooses which play they want to see (18 May). www.shakespearesglobe.com
HOLLAND PARK Each summer, Opera Holland Park is the setting for semi-outdoor shows in Kensington, with the aim of making opera appealing and accessible to all. Highlights include Verdi’s tragedy, La Traviata (from 29 May) and Mozart’s comic opera Così Fan Tutte (from 31 May), about assumed identities and infidelity. www.operahollandpark.com
REGENT’S PARK OPEN AIR THEATRE © DAVID JENSEN; SHAKESPEARE’S GLOBE © JOHN WILDGOOSE
As Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre’s summer season opens, Sarah Riches takes a look at the outdoor theatre productions you can catch this month
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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM
T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. References in listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on p. 80-81. Check for complete listings. TKTS booth has discounted tickets (Leicester Square Gardens, WC2H 0AP)
Aladdin This Broadway and West End hit has a stellar cast. Based on the Disney film, expect tunes such as A Whole New World and Friend Like Me with lyrics by Tim Rice, and a real magic carpet. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £17.50-£149.50. www. aladdinthemusical.co.uk. Prince Edward Theatre, Old Compton St, W1D 4HS. T: 0844-482 5151. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
All or Nothing – The Mod Musical To 2 Jun: London, 1965. This musical follows the rise and demise of The Small Faces, the band that encapsulated all that was mod – a unique blend of taste and testosterone. Please check for times. Tickets £27.50-£80. www.theambassadorstheatre. co.uk. Ambassadors Theatre, West St, WC2H 9ND. T: 020-7395 5405. D7. Station: Leicester Square.
Bat out of Hell: The Musical This brilliant Meat Loaf jukebox musical returns to London. Set in the dark post-apocalyptic world, it features motorbikes and flames on stage. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £20-£175. www.batoutofhellmusical.com. Dominion Theatre, 268-269 Tottenham Court Rd, W1T 7AQ. T: 0845-200 7982. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
The Book of Mormon This controversial satire, from the writers of TV’s South Park, follows the exploits of two hapless missionaries. Winner of four Olivier Awards. Please check for times. 1-19 May: Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm (no 2.30pm show 16 May). Tickets £25-£202.25. www.bookofmormonlondon.com. Prince of Wales Theatre, Coventry St, W1D 6AS. T: 0844-482 5110. E7. Station: Leicester Square/ Piccadilly Circus.
Chess
42nd Street
Written by ABBA songwriters Benny Andersson and Björn Ulvaeus, and Tim Rice, this tells a story of love and political intrigue, set against the backdrop of the Cold War in the late 1970s and early 1980s. Please check for times and prices. www.eno.org. 33 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4ES. T: 020-7845 9300. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
Directed by Mark Bramble, this romantic comedy follows a director as he stages a musical during the Great Depression. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£125. www.42ndstreetmusical. co.uk. Theatre Royal Drury Lane, Catherine St, WC2B 5JF. T: 0844-858 8877. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Kathleen Turner: Finding My Voice
Chicago the Musical Academy Award-winner Cuba Gooding Junior stars as Billy in this jazz-filled musical. Mon-Sat 8pm, Wed & Sat 3pm. Tickets £20-£154.90. www.phoenixtheatrelondon.co.uk. Phoenix Theatre, 110 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0JP. T: 0843-316 1082. E7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
To 6 May: A one-woman show by the husky alto. Songs include On the Street Where You Live and Every Time We Say Goodbye. Please check for times. Tickets from £18. www.theotherpalace. co.uk. The Other Palace, 12 Palace St, SW1E 5JA. T: 0844-264 2140. F6/7. Station: Victoria.
Hamilton the musical has been awarded a Grammy Award, a Pulitzer Prize and seven Olivier Awards
Dreamgirls Powerful tunes set to a story about a young female singing trio from Chicago. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£175. www.savoytheatre.org. Savoy Theatre, Strand, WC2R 0ET. T: 0844-871 7687. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Everybody’s Talking About Jamie This feel-good new musical is set in Sheffield, and tells the story of Jamie who overcomes bullies. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £20-£85. www.everybodystalkingaboutjamie.co.uk. Apollo Theatre, 31 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. T: 0330-333 4809. E7. Station: Piccadilly Cicrus.
Hamilton Award-winning musical, which is sung and rapped, about the life of the American Founding Father Alexander Hamilton (p. 54). Please check for times, prices and how to get returns. www.hamiltonthemusical.co.uk. Victoria St, SW1E 5EA. T: 0844-482 5138. E7. Station: Victoria.
Save the last dance The celebrated dancer and choreographer Akram Khan has chosen Sadler’s Wells for the UK premiere of XENOS (from 29 May; p. 58) – which will also be his final performance as a dancer in a full-length piece. XENOS, which means stranger or foreigner, revisits the classical Greek myth of Prometheus – the Titan who stole fire and gave it to mankind – through the experience of an Indian colonial soldier in World War I. Khan tells a tale of loss, hope and redemption through movement that shifts between classical Indian kathak and contemporary dance, which is set to music by Vincenzo Lamagna. The star is joined on stage by five musicians. Khan has previously collaborated with the English National Ballet, pop singer Kylie Minogue and visual artist Anish Kapoor.
Kinky Boots Musical about a factory that decides to make boots for drag queens. Music by Cyndi Lauper. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £19.50-£125. www.kinkybootsthemusical.co.uk. Adelphi Theatre, 409-412 Strand, WC2R 0NS. T: 0844- 579 0094. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
Les Misérables The world’s longest-running musical is set in post-revolutionary France. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £47.25-£177.25. www.lesmis.com. Queen’s Theatre, 51 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 6BA. T: 0844-482 5160. D8. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Disney’s The Lion King Wonderful adaptation of the popular Disney film with ingenious costumes and inventive puppetry. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Wed, Sat & Sun 2.30pm. Tickets £7-£200.25. www.thelionking.co.uk. Lyceum Theatre, 21 Wellington St, WC2E 7RQ. T: 0844-871 3000. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Mamma Mia! A tribute to the music of ABBA, with a feel-good story set on a Greek island. Mon-Sat 7.45pm; Thur & Sat 3pm. Tickets £27.25-£102.25. www.mamma-mia. com. Novello Theatre, Aldwych, WC2B 4LD. T: 0844-482 5115. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Matilda the Musical Fantastic show based on Roald Dahl’s children’s book about a girl with magic powers. Tue 7pm; Wed-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm. Tickets £25-£122.50. www.matildathemusical.com. Cambridge Theatre, 32-34 Earlham St, WC2 9HU. T: 0844-412 4652. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Motown the Musical Brilliant musical based on the story of Motown Records, which launched the careers of Diana Ross and the Supremes and The Temptations. By the end of the night you’ll be Dancing in the Street. Please check for times and prices. www.shaftesburytheatre. com. Shaftesbury Theatre, 210 Shaftesbury Ave, WC2H 8DP. T: 020-7379 5399. D8. Station: Holborn.
The Phantom of the Opera Long-running Gothic drama in which a mysterious masked man haunts the Paris Opera House. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £25-£204.75. www.thephantomoftheopera.com. Her Majesty’s Theatre, 57 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QL. T: 0844-412 2707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
XENOS © JEAN LOUIS FERNANDEZ
MUSICALS & PERFORMANCES
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ENTERTAINMENT Young Frankenstein The legendary filmmaker and comedian Mel Brooks brings his classic monster musical comedy to life on stage in an all-singing, all-dancing musical collaboration with the Tony Award-winning Broadway director and choreographer Susan Stroman. Suitable for all ages with parental guidance. Please check for times and prices. www.garricktheatre.org. Garrick Theatre, 2 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0HH. T: 0844-482 9673. E7/8. Station: Leicester Square.
PLAYS Absolute Hell Set in a Soho den after World War II, this follows members who drink into the darkness. Please check for times and prices. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk. National Theatre, South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.
An Ideal Husband To 14 Jul: An Oscar Wilde play. Sir Robert Chiltern,
Chicago and Cabaret are two of the most successful musicals of all time, which were created by John Kander and Fred Ebb. While their work The Rink (below) is not as well-known, it is still an exciting musical. The hit Broadway version – which starred Liza Minnelli and Chita Rivera in its 1984 Broadway premiere – is returning to London, 20 years after its West End premiere. Directed by Adam Lenson at Southwark Playhouse (from 25 May), The Rink tells the heartwarming story of an estranged daughter, Angel, who returns home to the USA’s East Coast to save the family roller rink from developers. She also hopes to smooth things over with her mother. Caroline O’Connor, who has played leads in Baz Luhrmann’s Moulin Rouge and Chicago on Broadway, plays the mother Anna. Director Lenson says: ‘The Rink is as innovative as it is underrated, and truly pushes the form of musical theatre.’
The Rink From 25 May: Originally premiered on
Broadway in 1984 starring Liza Minnelli. It tells the story of Anna, a housewife who runs a roller-skating rink, who is about to sell it until her daughter, Angel, returns (above). Please check for times. Tickets £14-£25. www.southwarkplayhouse. co.uk. Southwark Playhouse, 77-85 Newington Causeway, SE1 6BD. T: 020-7407 0234. F10. Station: Elephant and Castle.
School of Rock: The Musical Andrew Lloyd Webber’s latest musical, based on the film of the same name, was a hit on Broadway and it’s a smash here, too. Mon & Wed-Sat 7.30pm, Thur & Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm. Tickets £15-£149.50. www.schoolofrockthemusical.com. New London Theatre, 166 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PF. T: 020-7452 3000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Strictly Ballroom the Musical Olivier Award-winning choreographer Drew McOnie directs Will Young in this Baz Luhrmann musical, which is adapted from the 1992 film of the same name. It follows Scott, a competitive ballroom dancer who insists on bending the rules to create his own moves. It features popular songs such as Love is in the Air and Time After Time. Please check for times. Tickets £15-£149.50. www.piccadillytheatre.org. Piccadilly Theatre, 16 Denman St, W1D 7DY. T: 0844-871 7630. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Teddy Jive musical set in 1950s London, with a live band on stage, 1950s hits and original songs. Check for times. Tickets £10-£35. www.thevaults.london. The Vaults, Leake St, SE1 7NN. F8. Station: Waterloo.
Thriller Live Non-stop songs and dancing celebrate Michael Jackson’s career. Please check for times and prices. www.thrillerlive.com. Lyric, 29 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. T: 0844-482 9674. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Tina
As You Like It From 2 May: Rosalind, the daughter of an unjustly exiled duke, falls in love with the wronged Orlando, a courtier deprived of his birthright by his brother – but her usurping uncle, jealous of her popularity, banishes her from court. Please check for times. Tickets from £5. www.shakespearesglobe.com. Shakespeare’s Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919. E10. Station: Blackfriars.
The Cardinal To 27 May: Hailed as a masterpiece, The Cardinal (1641) was one of the last plays staged in England before Cromwell’s theatre ban. 3.30pm & 8pm. Tickets £16-£20. www.southwarkplayhouse. co.uk. Southwark Playhouse, 77-85 Newington Causeway, SE1 6BD. T: 020-7407 0234. Off map. Station: Elephant and Castle.
The Comedy About a Bank Robbery A hilarious play about six incompetent crooks desperate to get hold of a diamond. Please check for times. Tickets £10-£73.75. www.thecomedy aboutabankrobbery.com. The Criterion Theatre, 218-223 Piccadilly, W1V 9LB. T: 0844-815 6131. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
The Fall
To 19 May: A funny, moving and A new musical based on the life of Anna Mae candid look at the relationship between young and Bullock, a farmgirl from Tennessee who went old people in a time of housing and care on to become the Queen of rock ‘n’ roll crises. Check for times. Tickets £16-£20. – Tina Turner. Expect hits including www.southwarkplayhouse.co.uk. What’s Love Got to Do with It? – which Southwark Playhouse, 77-85 won four Grammy Awards. Mon-Sat; Newington Causeway, SE1 6BD. check for times. Tickets £10-£79.50. T: 020-7407 0234. Off map. Station: Harry Potter and www.tina themusical.com. Aldwych the Cursed Child has Elephant and Castle. Theatre, 9 Aldwych, WC2B 4DF. won nine Laurence Faulty Towers: T: 0845-200 7981. D8. Station: Holborn. Olivier Awards
Wicked The brilliant backstory of the witches of Oz with the hit tunes Defying Gravity and Popular (p. 58). Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £24.75-£175. www.wickedthemusical.co.uk. Apollo Victoria Theatre, 17 Wilton Rd, SW1V 1LG. T: 0844-871 3001. F7. Station: Victoria.
The Dining Experience
Seventies-style dining and interactive comedy combine in this popular theatrical experience based on the cult TV comedy. Please check for times. Tickets £67.50-£79.50. www.faultytowers-uk.com. Radisson Blu Edwardian, 9-13 Bloomsbury St, WC1B 3QD. T: 0845-154 4145. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
PHOTO COURTESY OF THE RINK
Rolling into town
an ambitious government minister, is rising up the ranks – until Mrs Cheveley appears in London with damning proof of his past financial deception. Tickets from £19.50. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Tue, Thur & Sat 2.30pm. www.vaudeville-theatre.co.uk. Vaudeville Theatre, 404 Strand, WC2R 0NH. T: 0330-333 4814. E8. Station: Charing Cross/Covent Garden.
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‘HILARIOUS, MOVING, GLORIOUS’ THE DA I LY TEL EGR A P H
THE MUSICAL MatildaTheMusical.com
CAMBRIDGE THEATRE, London, WC2H 9HU
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ENTERTAINMENT
To 19 May: With a story by Jez
Butterworth and direction by Sam Mendes, this play – which sold out at the Royal Court Theatre – is a hit. Set in Northern Ireland in 1981, it follows the Carney household as they celebrate the harvest. But a visitor interrupts proceedings. Mon-Sat 7pm; Wed & Sat 1.30pm. Tickets £15-£94.50. www.delfont mackintosh.co.uk. Gielgud Theatre, Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 6AR. T: 0844-482 5130. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Leicester Square.
Frozen To 5 May: Brilliant psychological thriller about a mother whose child goes missing, starring Suranne Jones (TV’s Doctor Foster). It will leave you gripped. Mon-Sat 7.30pm, Thur & Sat 3pm. £15-£85. www.trh.co.uk. Royal Haymarket, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HT. T: 020-7930 8800. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
The Grinning Man To 5 May: A magical reimagining
of the novel by Victor Hugo (Les Misérables). A new act has arrived at the fairground. Who is Grinpayne and how did he get his hideous smile? For over-12s. Please check for times and prices. www.atgtickets. com. Trafalgar Studios, 14 Whitehall, SW1A 2DY. T: 0844-871 7632. E7/8. Station: Charing Cross.
Hamlet William Shakespeare’s classic play. After learning of his father’s death, Prince Hamlet comes home to find his uncle married to his mother and installed on the Danish throne. Please check for times. Tickets £5-£22. www.shakespearesglobe.com. Shakespeare’s Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919. E10. Station: Blackfriars.
Harold and Maude To 12 May: A dark comedy told through the eyes of the most unlikely pairing: a compulsive, self-destructive young man who attends funerals for entertainment. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed 2.30pm; Sat 3pm. Tickets £17.50-£42.50. www.charingcrosstheatre.co.uk. Charing Cross Theatre, The Arches, Villiers St, WC2N 6NL. T: 0844-493 0650. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
Harry Potter and the Cursed Child The long-awaited parts I and II of the adaptation of JK Rowling’s new story has already won many awards. Father-ofthree Harry now works for the Ministry of Magic. Most tickets are sold out; please check for returns and times. www.harry pottertheplay.com. Palace Theatre, 113 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 5AY. T: 0300-333 4813. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
The Inheritance To 19 May:
A generation after the worst of the AIDS crisis, what is it like to be a young gay man in New York? Please check for times. Tickets £10-£38. www.youngvic.org. Young Vic, 66 The Cut, SE1 8LZ. T: 020-7452 3000. F9. Station: Waterloo.
Julie
Suicide From 31 May: Miss Julie finds a new home
in London. Wild and newly single, Julie throws a party, initiating a game that descends into a fight for survival. Stars Vanessa Kirby (The Crown). Please check for times and prices. www.national theatre.org.uk. National Theatre, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.
Life and Fate 8-20 May: It’s early 1943. Hitler’s Germany and
Stalin’s Russia are struggling for their survival. This epic tale of a country is told through the fate of a Jewish family (p. 56). 7pm, please check for dates. Tickets £15-£110. www.trh.co.uk. Theatre Royal Haymarket, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HT. T: 0207930 8800. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
The Moderate Soprano Overview An intense love affair and the unrelenting search for artistic excellence in the face of scrutiny, sacrifice and the impending World War II. Please check for times. Tickets £15-£85. www.dukeofyorkstheatre. co.uk. Duke of York’s Theatre, 104 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4BG. T: 0844-871 7627. E8. Station: Leicester Square.
Mood Music A young songwriter, her producer, their lawyers and psychotherapists go to battle over who owns a hit song. Please check for times and prices. www.oldvictheatre.com. The Old Vic, The Cut, SE1 8NB. T: 0844-871 7628. F9. Station: Waterloo.
The Mousetrap A murderer strikes at a party in Agatha Christie’s long-running whodunnit. Please check for times and prices. www.the-mousetrap.co.uk. St Martin’s Theatre, West St, WC2H 9NZ. T: 0844-499 1515. D7. Station: Leicester Square.
The Play That Goes Wrong Comedy about a group of actors staging a murder mystery. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm & 7pm. Tickets £22-£67.50. www. theplaythatgoes wrong.com. Duchess Theatre, 3-5 Catherine St, WC2B 5LA. T: 0844-482 9672. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Quiz This comical play is a fictional story based on real events regarding Charles Ingram, the ‘coughing major’, accused of cheating in 2001 during an episode of TV’s Who Wants To Be A Millionaire? Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£95. www.delfontmackintosh.co.uk. Noël Coward Theatre, St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4AU. T: 0844-482 5140. E8. Station: Leicester Square.
Red From 4 May: Alfred Molina reprises his role as the painter Mark Rothko. Please check for times and prices. www.delfontmackintosh. co.uk. Wyndham’s Theatre, Charing Cross Road, WC2H 0DA. T: 0844-482 5120. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
See the award-winning musical Hamilton (p. 50)
17-18 May: John is a typical man, with a typical job, living a typical life, but when things start to take a turn for the worse he isn’t sure what to do. Can he continue with a life of déjà vu and disappointment or is the only option to end it all? 3pm. Tickets £20. www.theotherpalace.co.uk. The Other Palace, 12 Palace St, SW1E 5JA. T: 0844-264 2140. F7. Station: Victoria.
The Two Noble Kinsmen From 25 May: When the imprisoned Palamon and Arcite vow eternal friendship, they don’t expect that anything will come between them. But then, from their cell window, they see the beautiful Emilia. Please check for times. Tickets from £5. www.shakespearesglobe.com. Shakespeare’s Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919. E10. Station: Blackfriars.
The Way of the World To 26 May: Lady Wishfort’s sprawling, dysfunctional family is riven by desire – there’s everything to lose and £6,000 to gain. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £10-£40. www.donmarwarehouse.com. Donmar Warehouse, 41 Earlham St, WC2H 9LX. T: 0844-871 7624. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Trainspotting Live To 20 May: This punchy production recaptures the controversy of the novel and film – the audience are literally part of the show, and will witness the notorious worst toilet in Scotland scene. Set in 80s Edinburgh, it follows a group of heroin addicts. Please check for times. Tickets £20-£40. www.thevaults.london. The Vaults, Leake St, SE1 7NN. T: 020-7401 9603. F8. Station: Waterloo.
Witness for the Prosecution This show is based on Agatha Christie’s gripping courtroom drama, and is staged in a former courtroom. Directed by Lucy Bailey, the audience acts as the jury for Leonard Vole, who is accused of murdering a widow to inherit her wealth. Tickets £10-£75. Tue-Sat 7.30pm, Thur & Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm. www.witnesscountyhall.com. County Hall, Belvedere Rd, South Bank, SE1 7PB. T: 0844-815 7141. F8. Station: Waterloo/Westminster.
The Woman in Black A spooky story adapted from Susan Hill’s novel, about a lawyer who visits a remote house to settle affairs after a woman’s death. Tue-Sat 8pm; Tue & Thur 3pm; Sat 4pm. Tickets £21.50-£60. www.thewomaninblack.com. Fortune Theatre, Russell St, WC2B 5HH. T: 0844-871 7626. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
The Writer To 26 May: A world premiere about a woman who wants to change the shape of the world. Please check for times and prices. www.almeida.co.uk. Almeida Theatre, Almeida St, N1 1TA. T: 020-7359 4404. Off map. Station: Highbury & Islington.
FESTIVALS AND EVENTS London Burlesque Festival Now in its 12th year, this variety festival brings together fire eaters, belly dancers, comical strippers dressed as builders, raunchy aerialists and a whole lot more. Please check for times and prices. www.londonburlesquefest.com. Shaw Theatre, 100-110 Euston Rd, NW1 2AJ. T: 0844-248 5075. C7. Station: King’s Cross.
HAMILTON © MATTHEW MURPHY
The Ferryman
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The Society of the Golden Keys of Great Britain (Les Clefs d’Or) welcomes the world’s travel & tourism industry
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Preferred charity partner
Please visit the concierge desk during your stay - nobody knows the UK like Les Clefs d’Or.
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ENTERTAINMENT Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre
The O2
From 17 May-15 Sep: The 2018 season (p. 48) lets you
Enormous venue for live music. 19 May: Trevor Noah. 31 May: Bryan Adams. Please check for times and prices. www.theo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0AX. T: 0844-856 0202. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.
watch shows under the stars including Peter Pan, The Turn of the Screw, As You Like It, Little Shop of Horrors and Dinosaur World Live. Please check for times and prices. www.openairtheatre.com. Open Air, Inner Circle, Regent’s Park, NW1 4NU. T: 0844-826 4242. C6. Station: Baker Street.
CONCERTS: CLASSICAL Barbican 5 May: Our Finest Hour. Classical music inspired by Dunkirk and the Battle of Britain, to coincide with the celebration of VE Day. 7.30pm. Tickets £12-£35. www.barbican.org.uk. Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 8891. C10. Station: Barbican.
Cadogan Hall 19 May: A Celebration for the Royal Wedding. Eltham College Choir and Choral Society partner with the London Festival Sinfonia to perform British choral and orchestral music. 7.30pm. Please check for prices. www.cadoganhall.com. 5 Sloane Terrace, SW1X 9DQ. T: 020-7730 4500. G6. Station: Sloane Square.
King’s Place 14 May: The English Concert with Kristian
Bezuidenhout. 8pm. Tickets £16.50-£34.50. www. kingsplace.co.uk. 90 York Way, Kings Cross, N1 9AG. T: 020-7520 1490. Off map. Station: King’s Cross.
Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club London’s most famous jazz venue. 22-23 May: Omar Puente – Cuban Jazz Quartet. Please check for times and prices. www.ronniescotts.co.uk. Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club, 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
London Coliseum Home to the English National Opera. The productions here are sung in English. To 6 May: Giselle. One of the greatest romantic ballets of all time, Giselle is the first full-length ballet choreographed by Akram Khan. The classic story of love, betrayal and redemption has been reimagined in this stunning new version. Please check for times Ella Fitzgerald, Miles Davis and Prince have all and prices. www.eno.org. 33 St performed at Ronnie Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4ES. Scott’s Jazz Club T: 020-7845 9300. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
Royal Albert Hall 11-12 May: Space Spectacular. 30 May: Playstation
in Concert. Please check for times and prices. www.royalalberthall.com. Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212. F4. Station: South Kensington.
DANCE Barbican 10-13 May: Crave. This new production investigates
the theme of rape. Suitable for over-16s. Check for times. Tickets £18. www.barbican.org.uk. Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 8891. C10. Station: Barbican.
Royal Festival Hall 7 May: Spirit of India. Celebrate India’s rich history, spirituality, mythology, festivals, weddings, music and Bollywood dancing in this one-off performance. Presented by India’s entertainment icon, Shiamak Davar, the show pays tribute to 70 years of Indian independence. From India’s rich history and diverse cultures to its modern transformations, go on a journey across the country through music and dance. Please check for times and prices. www.southbankcentre.co.uk. Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-3879 9555. E8. Station: Waterloo.
Royal Albert Hall London’s music hall, and home to the BBC Proms. 13 May: Planet Earth II Live in Concert. This audiovisual concert features footage from the BBC TV series, shown on big screens, accompanied by the BBC Concert Orchestra conducted by Jessica Cottis. Please check for prices. www.royalalberthall.com. Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212. G4. Station: South Kensington.
Royal Festival Hall 23 May: BBC Concert Orchestra – With a little bit
of Lerner. Celebrating the 100th birthday of Alan J Lerner. 7.30pm. Tickets £12-£45. www.southbank centre.co.uk. Royal Festival Hall, Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-3879 9555. E8. Station: Waterloo.
St James’s Piccadilly This 1676 church has free recitals every Mon, Wed & Fri at 1.10pm and concerts from 7.30pm. www.sjp. org.uk. St James’s Piccadilly, 197 Piccadilly, W1J 9LL. T: 020-7381 0441. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
St Martin-in-the-Fields Church Lunchtime and evening concerts. www.smitf.org. St Martin-in-the-Fields Church, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross. 17 May: Sunwook Kim. The pianist plays Bach, Beethoven and Brahms. Please check for times. Tickets £13-£15. www.wigmore-hall.org.uk. 36 Wigmore St, W1U 2BP. T: 020-7935 2141. D6. Station: Bond Street.
CONCERTS: POP, JAZZ & WORLD The Jazz Cafe This live music venue and club specialises in jazz and funk. 1 May: R’n’B legend Jocelyn Brown. 7pm. £25-£40. www.thejazzcafelondon.com. 5 Parkway, NW1 7PG. T: 0844-847 2514. Off map. Station: Camden Town.
Rewriting history By the time the Soviet Union’s KGB seized Vasily Grossman’s 1960 novel Life and Fate, it was too late as he’d already smuggled copies out of the country. But it wasn’t until its 2007 premiere in Paris, and subsequent world tour, that Grossman was recognised for his honest portrayal of Soviet society and the parallels between Nazism and Soviet Communism. Life and Fate is set in 1943, in a world torn apart by ideological tyranny, war, Nazi concentration camps and Siberian gulags. By delving into the fate of a single Jewish family, the Shtrums, Grossman’s masterpiece explores how people continue to live, love and hope in a cruel, totalitarian society. Under the artistic directorship of Lev Dodin, the Maly Drama Theatre of St Petersburg brings the production to Theatre Royal Haymarket (from 8 May; p. 54), along with Anton Chekhov’s Uncle Vanya (15-17 May). Both productions are performed in Russian, with English subtitles.
LIFE AND FATE COURTESY OF LIFE AND FATE
Wigmore Hall
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ENTERTAINMENT Royal Opera House To 16 May: Manon. Kenneth
MacMillan’s ballet is revived for celebrations on his impact on ballet, to mark the 25th anniversary of his death. Please check for times and prices. www.roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Sadler’s Wells From 29 May: XENOS. Marking his final performances as a dancer in a full-length piece, Akram Khan takes to the stage (p. 50). Please check for times and prices. www.sadlerswells.com. Sadler’s Wells Theatre, Rosebery Ave, EC1R 4TN. T: 020-7863 8000. Off map. Station: Angel.
The Time Machine 29-31 May: 1959. It is the golden age of sci-fi. A mysterious man arrives at Radio Woking to present a musical adaptation of HG Wells’ classic story. 7.45pm. Tickets £10-£20. www.wiltons.org.uk. Wilton’s Music Hall, 1 Graces Alley (pedestrian access only), E1 8JB. T: 020-7702 2789. Off map. Station: Tower Hill.
Be dazzled by the magical musical, Wicked (p. 48)
OPERA
The Little Mochi Man
Royal Opera House To 4 May: 4.48 Psychosis. Philip
Venables’ opera inspired by Sarah Kane’s final play is revived. Please check for times and prices. www. roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
CHILDREN & FAMILIES A Heart at Sea 12-13 May: Be enthralled by this epic musical
folktale told on a miniature scale. A Heart at Sea uses haunting live music to tell the story of a young boy who bottles up his heart and throws it into the sea. Original songwriting is set to breathtaking visuals centred on a beautifully carved wooden chest that holds the secrets to the story. Intricate puppets are swept through a transforming wooden world created by the spectacular chest. Be astounded as backdrops flip up, pirouette and change, sending the boy tumbling through danger and discovery. Puppets roam on this unique contraption to recount the story of whales, tiny boats, sea captains and beard. Please check for times. www.littleangeltheatre.com. Little Angel Theatre, 14 Dagmar Passage, N1 2DN. T: 020-7226 1787. Off map. Station: Angel.
23-27 May: It’s almost New Year and a ball of
cooked rice – Mochi Man – is tired of being bullied because of his small size so he decides to run away. Join him on his adventures as he travels from the snowy mountains of Hokkaido, to the bustle of Tokyo, meeting wondrous characters along the way, including the Gingerbread Man and a bullet train. What dangers lurk around the corner? Will he make friends, and will he make it back home in time for the celebrations? Suitable for four to eight-year-olds. Please check for times. Tickets £11-£13. www.littleangeltheatre.com. Little Angel Theatre, 14 Dagmar Passage, N1 2DN. T: 020-7226 1787. Off map. Station: Angel.
Sensacional Children can participate in this light and sound show as they try to catch digital ladybirds. Suitable for 18 months to three years. Please check for times and prices. www.unicorntheatre.com. Unicorn Theatre, 147 Tooley St, SE1 2HZ. T: 020-7645 0560. Off map. Station: London Bridge.
Stories on a String From 31 May: City girl Jacina must leave her Facebook-fuelled life to travel into the Amazon jungle on a quest for her grandma. Her journey is full of surprises, as she encounters mythical creatures and discovers her family’s roots. Aimed at children aged seven to 12. Adult £13.50; child £11.50. Please check for times. www.little angeltheatre.com. Little Angel Theatre, 14 Dagmar Passage, N1 2DN. T: 020-7226 1787. Off map. Station: Angel.
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Tom Thumb
1-19 May: Outwitting his parents and the ogre Tom shows everyone that even though he is small he is still mighty as he protects his brothers, finds the treasure and makes sure they’ll never be hungry again. Performed entirely on and under a kitchen table this wonder of a show is full of magic with feathery spinning birds, a flying house and a portable forest. CBeebies Patrick Lynch, who has been performing it for more than a decade, brings this classic story to life in a playful and fascinating show. Please check for times and prices. www.little angeltheatre.com. Little Angel Theatre, 14 Dagmar Passage, N1 2DN. T: 020-7226 1787. Off map. Station: Angel.
IN THE HEART OF LEICESTER SQUARE
The Tap Pack 1-19 May: Inspired by the kings of swing, Frank
Sinatra, Dean Martin and Sammy Davis Jr, The Tap Pack have an exhilarating, new energy and timeless style. With slick suits, sharp wit and songs from Sinatra to Ed Sheeran, Australia’s finest tap dancing performers are a cocktail of pure entertainment. The Tap Pack and their four-piece live band serve up classics with a twist, infused with world-class tap dance. Tickets from £15. Please check for times. www.sadlerswells.com. Peacock Theatre, Portugal St, WC2A 2HT. T: 020-7863 8222. D8. Station: Holborn.
TriOperas – The Hit Opera Show From 23 May: Three legendary operas – shortened versions of Turandot, Butterfly and Carmen – form this triple bill with classics including Nessun Dorma, One Fine Day, Humming Chorus, Habanera and The Toreador Song merged with punk, rap, rock and hip hop, acrobatics, kung-fu, puppetry, breakdancing, tap, ballet, salsa and parkour. Please check for times and prices. www.peacocktheatre.com. The Peacock, Portugal St, WC2A 2HT. T: 020-7863 8222. D8. Station: Holborn/Temple.
FILM BFI Southbank A four-screen cinema venue showing a huge selection of classic and contemporary films, with new and re-releases, film seasons, plus director and actor retrospectives. There are also cinema and TV programmes in the archive, which is open to the public to watch. Look out for artist talks, too. www.bfi.org.uk. BFI Southbank, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XT. T: 020-7928 3232. E8. Station: Waterloo.
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ICA (Institute of Contemporary Arts) Watch art house films in this modern venue, which is famous for its galleries and film screenings. This month’s screenings include The Young Karl Marx. The Lucrecia Martel Retrospective includes short films and a Q&A with the director Lucrecia Martel. Learn about the acclaimed Argentinian director’s masterful approach to storytelling. www.ica.art. The Mall, SW1Y 5AH. T: 0871-2244 007. E8. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Charing Cross.
The Lounge at ODEON Whiteleys Watch films in the intimate screening rooms, with comfortable leather seats, while dining on an exclusive menu from chef Rowley Leigh, with the food served directly to your seat. Please check programme for films. www.odeon.co.uk/ thelounge. Whiteleys Of Bayswater, Queensway, W2 4YL. T: 0871-2244 007. Off map. Station: Queensway.
THINGS TO DO | FOOD AND DRINK | ESSENTIALS | FIRST VISIT ITINERARIES | ASK THE EXPERT | TICKETS AND OFFERS www.wheretraveler.com 59
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SHOPPING | THE GUIDE
The big day
Bridal boutiques
With the nation in the grips of royal wedding fever, predictions about Meghan Markle’s dress are rife. As ideas get thrown around on a daily basis, even the most laid-back bride-to-be would have to admit that there’s never been a more exciting time to plan the perfect wedding. Now, as the world’s first upscale wedding department store opens in London, shopping for the dream day has just got simpler. The Wedding Gallery, a permanent wedding retail, planning and inspiration destination, has opened its doors in London’s iconic One Marylebone – one of Sir John Soane’s magnificent creations, which is now a Grade I-listed building. The venue offers a unique experience for the bride and groom-to-be. Designed over two floors by Christian Lahoude, the space contains all they need to plan their big day – meaning that they don’t have to spend time running
around the capital. Curated by leading industry experts, brides and grooms are guided through the wedding planning process and have exclusive access to the collections of more than 200 brands. The gallery offers bridal fashion, floristry, venues, jewellery, gifts, catering, photography, cake design, filmmaking, perfumes, drinks and entertainment. The groom can get suited and booted by labels including Gieves & Hawkes and Turnbull & Asser, and tailors are on hand to help him find the right cut. Then, after a long day shopping, take a seat in The Club located within this wedding department store. Enjoy delicious food and sip on a cocktail (or two) in the beautiful café and bar while you toast your achievements of the day. The Wedding Gallery, 1 Marylebone Rd, NW1 4AQ. T: 020-7380 1699. www.the-weddinggallery.com
DAVID’S BRIDAL Located in Westfield Stratford (above), big-name American designers here include Vera Wang and Zac Posen. The range includes petite and plus-size dresses, as well as stylish outfit options for bridesmaids and the mother of the bride. Westfield Stratford City, Montfichet Rd, E20 1EN
BROWNS BRIDE The fashion boutique is one of the chicest places to shop for weddings. Designer dresses range from Viktor & Rolf to Monique Lhuillier Designs, while accessories include necklaces, head pieces, earrings and bracelets. The shop holds a sample sale twice a year – one at the start of the year and one towards the end. Appointments must be booked to try on dresses. 12 Hinde St, W1U 3BE
THE WEDDING GALLERY © ANDY TYLER PHOTOGRAPHY; WESTFIELD © ISTOCK
As the royal wedding takes place, Flora Neighbour discovers that the newly opened Wedding Gallery is a one-stop shop for a bride and groom’s needs
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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM
T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81
MAJOR SHOPPING AREAS Bond Street Home to designer boutiques, antiques, art and jewellery, plus auction houses Sotheby’s and Bonhams. D6/E6/E7. Station: Bond Street.
Carnaby Once the domain for 1960s mods and rockers, these days the Carnaby area appeals to the fashionable set, with sports-inspired stores and edgy designers. D7/E7. Station: Oxford Circus.
Covent Garden This former fruit and vegetable market is now a popular centre for arts, crafts and special interest shops and stalls. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Liberty Famous for its prints, which are on everything from scarves to notebooks. Designer fashion for men and women scores highly here, too. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.liberty.co.uk. Great Marlborough St, W1B 5AH. T: 020-7734 1234. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
House of Fraser Fashion, beauty, homeware and electrical goods. Mon-Fri 9.30am-10pm; Sun noon-6.30pm. www.houseoffraser.com. 318 Oxford St, W1C 1HF. T: 0844-800 3752. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
John Lewis
This hidden historic corner of London is home to the jewellery trade and the centre of the diamond industry. C9/D9. Station: Farringdon.
Covetable fashion labels, homeware and electrical goods at this trusted department store. Mon-Wed; Fri 9.30am-8pm; Thur 9.30am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.johnlewis.com. 300 Oxford St, W1A 1EX (and branches). T: 020-7629 7711. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
Jermyn Street & St James’s
Marks & Spencer
Hatton Garden
Some of the oldest specialist menswear shops in London are found in this area, including hatters and shirtmakers. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
King’s Road Once famous for upmarket fashion, it still attracts a polished crowd. Duke of York Square bustles with antique and furniture shops. G4. Station: Sloane Square.
Oxford Street Europe’s busiest shopping street has major department stores including Selfridges and John Lewis, plus popular high-street chains. D6/D7. Station: Oxford Circus/Bond Street/Marble Arch.
Reliable source for lingerie and food, as well as many fashion collections (multiple locations around London). Open Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.marksandspencer.com. 458 Oxford St, W1C 1AP. T: 020-7935 7954. D6. Station: Marble Arch.
Selfridges The finest products in beauty and fashion, plus numerous restaurants and bars. Mon-Sat 9.30am10pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.selfridges.com. 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 0800-123 400. D6. Station: Bond Street.
FASHION Burberry
Find the full Burberry London and Prorsum collections featuring clothing for men, women, children and babies, including a winning mix of classic and funky raincoats, separates and accessories (multiple locations around London). www.burberry.com. 121 Regent St, W1B 4TB. T: 020-7806 8904. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Cath Kidston Home to stylish accessories with London prints, plus childrenswear. www.cathkidston.com. 178-180 Piccadilly, W1J 9ER. T: 020-7499 9895. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Chanel Exuding style and class in all of its designs and products, fashion-forward shoppers can spend hours browsing through accessories, clothing, bags and other treasures at this chic flagship (multiple locations around London). www.chanel.com. 158-159 New Bond St, W1S 7UB. T: 020-7493 5040. E6. Station: Green Park
Hackett For those who hanker after the classic British gentleman-at-leisure look, this store is hard to beat. Find polos, sporting jackets and cords, suiting and plenty of accessories (multiple locations around London). www.hackett.com. 193-197 Regent St, W1B 4LY. T: 020-7494 4917. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Regent Street Originally designed by John Nash, this prestigious area includes Liberty and the first British Ferrari shop. D6/D7/E7. Station: Oxford Circus/Piccadilly Circus.
Savile Row One of London’s most famous areas for tailoring is in upmarket Mayfair. Find bespoke tailors including Anderson & Sheppard. E7. Station: Green Park.
MAJOR STORES Fenwick
CARNABY STREET COURTESY OF CARNABY STYLE WEEKENDER
Designer names and regular events. Mon-Wed; Fri & Sat 10am-7pm; Thur 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.fenwick.co.uk. 63 New Bond St, W1S 1RQ. T: 020-7629 9161. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Fortnum & Mason This British institution is famed for its food hall. Mon-Sat 10am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.fortnum andmason.com. 181 Piccadilly, W1A 1ER. T: 0845300 1707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Hamleys Huge toy shop. Mon-Fri 9am-10pm; Sat 9.30am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.hamleys.com. 188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT. T: 0871-704 1977. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
Harrods Edwardian food and meat halls, men’s, women’s and children’s fashion, cosmetics, a spa, bars and restaurants. Mon-Fri 10am-9pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.harrods.com. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.
Street of style Jimi Hendrix, Twiggy and Mick Jagger are just some of the famous names who loved shopping in Carnaby Street during the Swinging Sixties. Today, the fashionable area is still known for its stylish and quirky shops. At fashion festival Carnaby Style Weekender (10-13 May), visitors can enjoy events from workshops to talks by industry experts. Pankhurst London is offering complimentary haircuts (12 May), while the SpanishItalian tapas restaurant Dehesa is hosting a jamón Ibérico masterclass (13 May).
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SHOPPING
LUXURY ARCADES
JEWELLERY & WATCHES
Burlington Arcade
David Morris
Running from Burlington Gardens to Piccadilly, this Regency arcade has specialist shops. Mon-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat 9am-6.30pm; Sun 11am-5pm. www.burlington-arcade.co.uk. Burlington Arcade, 51 Piccadilly, W1J 0QJ. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
This esteemed British jewellery brand offers beautiful couture jewellery made to the highest standards. www.davidmorris.com. 180 New Bond St, W1S 4RL. T: 020-7499 2200. E7. Station: Green Park.
This wellbeing emporium is more than 200 years old and is the pharmacy to the Queen. It offers emergency prescriptions and vaccinations. www.johnbellcroyden.co.uk. Check for opening times. 50-54 Wigmore St, W1U 2AU. T: 020-7935 5555. D6. Station: Bond Street.
Links of London
London Glassblowing
Jewellery and watches with high-quality designs. www.linksoflondon.com. 491 Oxford St, W1A 2LR. T: 020-7491 2371. D5. Station: Bond Street.
Pick up a souvenir and try glassblowing with a session at the UK’s foremost studio and gallery for contemporary glass art. www.londonglassblowing. co.uk. 62-66 Bermondsey St, SE1 3UD. T: 020-7403 2800. F11. Station: London Bridge.
Leadenhall Market A spectacular Victorian covered market in the City that dates back to the 14th century. Mon-Fri 11am5pm. www.leadenhallmarket.co.uk. Gracechurch St, EC3V 1LR. D11. Station: Monument.
MALLS & FACTORY OUTLETS Bicester Village Discount designer clothes at this relaxed haven in Oxfordshire. Mon-Wed & Fri 9am-9pm; Thur & Sat 9am-10pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www.bicester village.com. Bicester Village, Bicester, Oxfordshire, OX26 6WD. T: 01869-323 200. Off map. Station: Bicester Village, from London Marylebone. There is also a bus pick-up service from major hotels.
Westfield London This mall has more than 300 shops, from high-street names to high-end labels. www.westfield.com/ london. Ariel Way, W12 7GF. T: 020-3371 2300. Map inset. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.
Westfield Stratford City Massive mall with 270 shops as well as a cinema and casino. www.westfield.com/stratfordcity. 2 Stratford Place, E20 1EJ. T: 020-8221 7300. Map inset. Station: Stratford.
Pandora Find jewellery, including charm bracelets that you build. www.pandora.net. 257-259 Oxford St, W1C 2DD. T: 020-7407 2007. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
KIDS’ STORES LEGO Store LEGO merchandise, including a huge replica of Big Ben made from bricks. 3 Swiss Court, W1D 6AP. T: 020-7839 3480. www.lego.com/ en-gb/stores. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
M&M’s World Sweet treats, including London-inspired chocolate souvenirs. Mon-Sat 10am-midnight; Sun noon-6pm. www.mmsworld.com. 1 Swiss Court, W1D 6AP. T: 020-7025 7171. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
SPECIALIST STORES Buckingham Palace Shop Royal souvenirs, including a jewellery line created by Alex Monroe. Mon-Sat 9.30am-5pm. www.royal collectionshop.co.uk. 7 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7839 1377. E6. Station: Victoria.
John Bell & Croyden
Prestat One of London’s oldest chocolate shops, selling chocolate, truffles and more. Please check for times. www.prestat.co.uk. 14 Princes Arcade, SW1Y 6DS. T: 020-8961 8555. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Green Park.
Twinings This is one of the capital’s oldest shops – it’s been trading from 1706 – and is full of a variety of teas and infusions. Enjoy a free Tea Tasting session. Mon-Fri 9.30am-8pm; Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-6pm. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.
We Built This City Quirky souvenir shop – look out for the stuffed pigeons, wallets and artworks. Check for times. www.webuiltthiscity.co.uk. 56-57 Carnaby St, W1F 9QF. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.
The Whisky Exchange Specialist retailer of fine whiskies and spirits. www.thewhiskyexchange.com. 2 Bedford St, WC2E 9HH. T: 020-7403 8688. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
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Normal opening times for most shops are Mon-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 11am-5pm unless stated otherwise. Some shops may stay open until 9pm on Thursdays for late-night shopping. www.wheretraveler.com 63
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DINING | THE GUIDE
Clockwise from this image: Sabor; Brat; Paladar
Oh so delicioso! Whoever said that all good things come in threes could easily have been talking about London’s latest Iberian restaurants. First on the menu is Sabor, just off Regent Street. Barrafina’s former manager, José Etura, and former chef, Nieves Barragan, have joined forces to open the restaurant, bar and an upstairs asador (grill). Expect regional Spanish dishes such as octopus and suckling pig. Like tapas joints across Spain, it has counter seating, floorboards and brick walls set against vibrant patterned tiles from Andalusia. Sample dishes include prawn croquettes; cheese and black truffle brioche; Iberian corn-fed pork, plus catch of the day displayed on ice, and nose-to-tail dishes such as bull tail stew. Just save space for cuajada de turrón – a pudding made with milk, honey and almond nougat – or goats’ cheese ice cream with liquorice sauce. Wash it all down with gin, vermouth or wine from Spanish producers (35-37 Heddon St, W1B 4BP). Meanwhile, Tomos Parry – formerly of The River Café, Fitzrovia’s Michelin-starred Kitchen Table and Mayfair’s Kitty Fisher’s – has opened Brat in Shoreditch. The restaurant draws on
Parry’s Welsh heritage, working with farms in South Wales to create British dishes such as wild mussel and cockle soup, and offal hot pot with laverbread and potatoes, inspired by the Welsh dish of cawl. The menu is also influenced by Parry’s travels to the coastal town of Getaria in the Basque region of northern Spain, which is known for its barbecues. As well as wood fire-grilled bread, sample cedar-wood sea trout with Jersey cream and river herbs; slow-grilled red mullet; and turbot. In fact, the restaurant’s name comes from the colloquial word for ‘fish’. Parry says: ‘Brat focuses on a gentle and simple style of fire cooking recognisable from Getaria, which means “buy well and don’t ruin it”. I’ve been working with farmers and fishermen to create a menu which is structured around native ingredients at the peak of their season.’ A 1930s stairwell leads you to the first-floor dining room, which has Art Deco panelling and large steel-frame windows that flood the room with light. Stools at a counter bar surround an open kitchen in the centre of the room, which has wood ovens (Redchurch St, E1 6JJ).
While Paladar isn’t Spanish, the restaurant, wine bar and bodega is in the heart of London’s Latin American community and serves cuisine from Spanish and Portuguese-speaking countries. Colombian chef Jose Rubio-Guevara has devised a gluten-free tapas menu divided into five sections: Nibbles, The Sea, The Farm, The Land and Sweet Endings. Try cassava fritters with tamarind sauce; tuna tartare with chipotle mayonnaise or Caribbean lamb stew with sweet potatoes and mint. Sommelier Rafael Cabezas-Castro from Ecuador has curated a wine list made up of tipples from Chile, Argentina, Uruguay, Peru and Mexico to complement piscos, mezcals, tequilas, cachaças and Cuban and Nicaraguan rum. Guests can dine while listening to Brazilian music and sit in the courtyard on a warm night. Latin American cigars are on sale, too (4-5 London Rd, SE1 6JZ). If you’re a regular visitor, InPaella opens off Oxford Street at the end of the year. It’ll be a fancy affair, with a 25m stove, and is expected to be the first of a handful of InPaellas to launch around the world in the next five years. The Spanish have, most certainly, arrived.
SABOR © CHRIS TERRY; BRAT COURTESY OF BRAT; PALADAR COURTESY OF PALADAR
A trio of top chefs is behind a hat-trick of three new Spanish restaurants, says Sarah Riches
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THREE OF THE VERY BEST INDIAN RESTAUR ANTS This award winning sophisticated Indian Grill offers intense flavours with an innovative twist, in a theatrical open kitchen setting. Michelin star. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Halkin Arcade, Motcomb Street Knightsbridge, London SW1X 8JT T: 020 7823 1166 E: info@amaya.biz Private dining room seats 14
The rich setting, interesting art and romantic candle lighting are secondary details in London’s haven of great Indian contemporary food. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week; weekend brunch with live music. 73 St James’s Street, London SW1A 1PH T: 020 7629 6688 E: info@chutneymary.com Two private dining rooms seat 30 and 16
Classical dishes, lovingly prepared and beautifully served in sumptuous surroundings overlooking Regent Street. The oldest Indian restaurant in the world has a Michelin star. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 1st floor 99 Regent Street, London W1B 4RS T: 020 7734 1401 E: info@veeraswamy.com Private dining room seats 24
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DINING T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (‘Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. B (breakfast), L (lunch), D (dinner). Prices per person for three courses: £: up to £25; ££: £25-£40; £££: £40-80; ££££: £80 +. References (A1; B5 etc.) refer to the map on p. 80-81
Fera at Claridge’s Creative British dishes made from local ingredients, served in an Art Deco restaurant. ££££. Daily L & D. www.claridges.co.uk. Claridge’s hotel, Brook St, W1K 4HR. T: 020-7107 8888. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Great Court Restaurant Enjoy lunch or afternoon tea above the huge museum’s iconic Reading Room. ££. Daily L; Fri D. www.britishmuseum.org. British Museum, Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8990. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Holborn.
Searcys St Pancras This ornate dining room in the Eurostar terminal serves brasserie-style dishes. ££-£££. Daily B, L & D. www.searcys.co.uk. Upper Concourse, St Pancras station, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.
BRITISH (TRADITIONAL) Butlers Restaurant
Williams Guillemot, former head chef of Clos Maggiore, has moved to L’Ami Malo, a new crêperie that’s inspired by the coastal town of Saint-Malo in Brittany. The restaurant, with its banquettes and a vintage till, feels warm and homely. The menu of galettes, or savoury pancakes made with gluten-free buckwheat, offers smoked ham, duck egg and maplecured bacon. For sweet treats, try crêpes with pear, chocolate sauce, roasted almond and ice cream. Le Moulin, a French-inspired speakeasy bar, is at the back with its own entrance. 14 Artillery Passage, E1 7LJ. T: 020-7247 8595. www.lamimalo.com. D11. Station: Liverpool Street/Aldgate
AMERICAS (NORTH & SOUTH) Gaucho Succulent Argentine steaks, plus a wine bar, masterclasses and entertainment. ££££. Daily L & D. www.gauchorestaurants.co.uk. 25 Swallow St, W1B 4QR (and branches). T: 020-7734 4040. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Goodman Premium steakhouse serving quality US and British beef, dry-aged and hand-cut in-house, plus dishes including whole-roasted poussin. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.goodmanrestaurants.com. 26 Maddox St, W1S 1QH. T: 020-7499 3776. E6. Station: Oxford Circus.
Hard Rock Cafe London’s original burger joint, which is more than 40 years old, has rock memorabilia, funky décor and a fun atmosphere. Enjoy jumbo wings, nachos and hickory-smoked ribs. ££. Daily L & D. www.hardrock.com. 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1LB. T: 020-7514 1700. E8. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
JW Steakhouse Steakhouse offering dry-aged prime beef with a variety of sides and toppings. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.jwsteakhouse.co.uk. Grosvenor House Hotel, 86 Park Lane, W1K 7TL. T: 020-7399 8460. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Oblix Sophisticated New York-style rotisserie/grill on the 32nd floor of The Shard. £££. Daily L & D. www.oblixrestaurant.com. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-7268 6700. E10. Station: London Bridge.
Planet Hollywood Hollywood-inspired dining experience with movie memorabilia and an international menu. ££. Daily L & D (bar to 1am). www.planethollywood london.com. 57-60 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QX. T: 020-7287 1000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Rainforest Cafe
Café in the Crypt Vaulted café under the Palladian church, serving homely dishes. The Café in the Courtyard is now open for summer. £. Mon-Sat B, L & D; Sun 11am-6pm. www.smitf.org. St Martin-in-the-Fields, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1158. D7. Station: Charing Cross.
Cheneston’s Intimate fine-dining restaurant. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.milestonehotel.com. The Milestone Hotel, 1 Kensington Court, W8 5DL. T: 020-7917 1000. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.
The English Grill Restaurant serving daily roasts. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.rubenshotel.com. The Rubens at the Palace hotel, 39 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PS. T: 020-7834 6600. F6. Station: Victoria.
Gillray’s Steakhouse Elegant setting with chandeliers. The selection of steak is sourced from England and aged for 35 days £££. Daily L & D. www.gillrays.com. London Marriott Hotel County Hall, Westminster Bridge Road, SE1 7PB. T: 020-7902 80005. F9. Station: Waterloo.
Busy diner in a mock rainforest setting with animatronic animals, and a menu with ribs, wraps and pasta. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.the rainforestcafe.co.uk. 20 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7EU. T: 020-7434 3111. E3. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
The Ritz Restaurant
BRITISH (MODERN)
Sophie’s Steakhouse & Bar
Aqua Shard Contemporary cuisine matches the fantastic views from The Shard’s 32nd floor. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.aquashard.co.uk. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-3011 1256. E10. Station: London Bridge.
Caxton Grill Superb steaks cooked on the Josper grill, plus seafood dishes, in a stylish venue. ££££. Daily L & D. www.caxtongrill.co.uk. 2 Caxton St, SW1H 0QW. T: 020-7227 7777. F7. Station: St James’s Park.
British dishes in a pretty dining room. Men must wear a jacket and tie. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.the ritzlondon.com. The Ritz hotel, 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7300 2370. E6/7. Station: Green Park. Modern venue with roast beef, steaks and terrine. ££. Daily L & D. www.sophiessteakhouse.co.uk. 42-44 Great Windmill St, W1D 7NB (and branch). T: 020-7352 0088. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
CHINESE Bright Courtyard Club Excellent Cantonese and Shanghai dishes, including dim sum. £££. Daily L & D. www.bright courtyard.co.uk. 43-45 Baker St, W1U 8EW. T: 020-7486 6998. D6. Station: Baker Street.
L’AMI MALO © STEVEN JOYCE
The sweetest thing
This elegant restaurant is famed for its roasts, served from a carving trolley. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.chesterfieldmayfair.com. 35 Charles St, W1J 5EB. T: 020-7491 2622. E6. Station: Green Park.
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WHERE PARTNERSHIP: IN ASSOCIATION WITH AFTERNOONTEA.CO.UK
Time for tea
ROSEWOOD LONDON © STUDIO APPETIT; THE SAVOY COURTESY OF THE SAVOY; THE CHELSEA HARBOUR HOTEL COURTESY OF THE CHELSEA HARBOUR HOTEL; THE LALIT LONDON COURTESY OF THE LALIT LONDON; OXO TOWER RESTAURANT, BAR AND BRASSERIE COURTESY OF OXO TOWER RESTAURANT, BAR AND BRASSERIE; CELLAR DOOR © JOLIE PAPILLON
London is famous for its afternoon tea – here’s our round-up of this month’s best. For more information, visit afternoontea.co.uk
ROSEWOOD LONDON
THE SAVOY
THE CHELSEA HARBOUR HOTEL
Arty types should try this hotel’s new Rodin afternoon tea, which celebrates the British Museum’s Rodin and the Art of Ancient Greece exhibition. Executive pastry chef Mark Perkins has taken the hotel’s Art afternoon tea – which was influenced by contemporary artists – one step further, creating pastries and other sweets such as a chocolate torso sculpture to resemble work by the French sculptor Auguste Rodin. You’ll dine in the hotel’s Mirror Room, which features floor-to-ceiling mirrors. 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-7781 8888. www.gofortea.com/rosewood
The Savoy – a popular venue for unofficial royal functions – has a royal afternoon tea inspired by royal weddings past and present. Created by executive pastry chef Ludwig Hely in collaboration with the hotel’s in-house archivist, the new menu will feature The Queen’s favourite cake – ganache with rich tea biscuits and rum-soaked raisins, which is based on a historic royal recipe. As well as sandwiches and cakes, sip Tea for Heroes, an English breakfast blend created for Terry Clark, an RAF Battle of Britain veteran. Strand, WC2R 0EZ. T: 020-7836 4343. www.gofortea.com/savoy
It’s high time you tried high tea here, especially as the hotel has launched a new Travel Through Time one. For a buzzy atmosphere, sit in the Chelsea Riverside Brasserie, which has a balcony, or for a peaceful vibe choose the adjacent bar – both have harbour views. Service can be slow, but at least there are no 90-minute slots. Nibble on scones and homemade raspberry jam, and sandwiches and sweets inspired by historical stories – forgo the chocolate rainbow cake in favour of caramel mousse and lemon tart. Chelsea Harbour, SW10 0XG. T: 020-7823 3000. www.gofortea.com/chelseaharbour
THE LALIT LONDON
OXO TOWER RESTAURANT, BAR AND BRASSERIE
CELLAR DOOR
At £47, The LaLiT High Chai is no ordinary tea – it’s a full-blown meal. Tuck into chickpea cake with tomato jam; a spicy paneer cheese wrap; chicken tikka flatbread and street food made with puffed rice, chutney, spiced potatoes and corn. Still have space? Then sip a yoghurtbased mango lassi or white apricot tea, oolong from Taiwan or mango tea from Sri Lanka. The meal is served on a three-tier cake stand in The Gallery, a mezzanine which overlooks the former school’s great hall. 181 Tooley St, SE1 JRT. T: 020-3765 0000. www.thelalit.com
The only shots you’ll do here are banana milkshake ones, as the children’s tea is designed for under 12s. The head chef’s sons gave it the thumbs up, so it’s tried and tested. As well as crustless sandwiches – made with white bread to suit fussy eaters – enjoy salted caramel popcorn, pitta and avocado ‘trees,’ mini scones, and marble brownie squares and caramel cream éclairs. Slurp it all down with a babyccino milky tea or raspberry and rhubarb ice tea. Oxo Tower, Barge House St, SE1 9PH. T: 0207803 3888. www.gofortea.com/oxotower
Ideal for couples and small groups such as hen nights, Cellar Door’s ‘High Tease’ is an alternative way to spend a Saturday. Delve beneath ground in this former Victorian public toilet off the Strand. Inside the compact bar, you’ll be treated to a welcome glass of bubbly as you play blackjack and watch burlesque dancers, pianists and jazz singers. You can snack on well-filled sandwiches (but no scones!) and a cupcake from nearby Primrose Bakery, but it’s the booze and show that’s the draw. Zero Aldwych, WC2R 0HS. T: 020-7240 8848. www.cellardoor.biz
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DINING
Chai Wu
Great food in Trafalgar Square – whatever the weather • Open daily for al fresco dining behind St Martin-in-the-Fields
This contemporary restaurant in Harrods serves delicious dishes such as shredded Wagyu beef and Chilean sea bass. ££££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D (until 8pm). www.chaiwu.co.uk. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-3819 8888. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.
CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN Fancy Crab Crab connoisseurs are in the right place, and once you’ve sampled the menu you’ll be dreaming of claws. Try crab bisque, crab fettucine and a crab burger… with a side of crab. £££. Daily L & D. www.fancycrab.co.uk. 92 Wigmore St, W1U 3RD. T: 020-3096 9484. D6. Station: Bond Street.
• Take away and table service • Breakfast, lunch and afternoon tea • Evening meals including platters to share and full wine list www.smitf.org
Read our reviews on
Just 5 minutes from Victoria station and opposite the Royal Mews at Buckingham Palace. Open daily for lunch, dinner, evening cocktails and private events.
43 Buckingham Palace Road, London SW1W 0PP 020 7958 7000 | www.bbarlondon.com
When Brindisa’s Argentinian head chef Nico Modad met the founder of the Argentinian street-food stall Porteña, Federico Fugazza, at Borough Market, they cooked up a plan: to open Chimichurris, an Argentinian parrilla (grill). Expect starters such as sweetbreads with chimi lemon sauce. Most mains are cooked over charcoal, making the restaurant smell like a barbecue. Highlights include octopus with polenta and smoked paprika; cod in caper sauce, plus rib-eye and sirloin steaks. The wine list is made up of mainly Argentinian bottles, with a few Uruguayan options. 132 Southwark Bridge Rd, SE1 0DG. T: 020-7401 2308. www.chimichurris. co.uk. F10. Station: Borough/Southwark
IMAGE COURTESY OF CHIMICHURRIS
Team Argentina
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ENJOY THE THALI AT 1 Lombard Street Hearty cooking in this brasserie (a former bank) with a huge glass dome. £££. Mon-Fri B, L & D. www.1lombardstreet.com. 1 Lombard St, EC3V 9AA. T: 020-7929 6611. D10. Station: Bank.
Savini at Criterion
REAL INDIAN FOOD
Fine-dining Italian in a neo-Byzantine dining room inside an opulent Grade II-listed building. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.saviniatcriterion.co.uk. 224 Piccadilly, W1J 9HP. T: 020-7930 1459. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
The Terrace All-day dining from Britain and around the globe in this elegant, light-filled restaurant and bar. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.amba-hotel.com. Amba Charing Cross hotel, Strand, WC2N 5HX. T: 0800-330 8397. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
Ting The restaurant in The Shard’s Shangri-La hotel serves European dishes with an Asian twist. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.shangri-la.com/london. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8108. F10. Station: London Bridge.
FRENCH Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester Innovative food from this Michelin-starred chef. ££££. Tue-Fri L & D; Sat D. Booking essential. www.alainducasse-dorchester.com. The Dorchester, Park Lane, W1K 1QA. T: 020-7629 8866. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
BAYSWATER, 75 BISHOPS BRIDGE RD COVENT GARDEN, 48 FLORAL ST SELFRIDGES 4TH FL, 400 OXFORD ST EARLS COURT, 147 EARLS COURT ROAD
CAMDEN, 25 PARKWAY ISLINGTON, 80 UPPER ST SOHO, 9 MARSHALL ST
M ASA LA ZO N E .COM
Brasserie Joël This smart hotel brasserie serves French classics. Every Monday, you can bring your own bottle of wine, with no corkage fee. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L & D; daily D. www.brasseriejoel.co.uk. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7272. F8. Station: Westminster.
Céleste Michelin-starred cuisine in a smart dining room. £££-££££. Daily B, L & D. www.lanesborough.com. The Lanesborough hotel, Hyde Park Corner, SW1X 7TA. T: 020-7259 5599. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
INDIAN Amaya This Michelin-starred venue serves dishes that are full of exotic twists, cooked in its open-grill kitchen. £££. Daily L & D. www.amaya.biz. Halkin Arcade, Motcomb St, SW1X 8JT. T: 020-7823 1166. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.
Benares
THE ENGLISH GRILL English Tradition, Dining and Design at its Finest
The English Gri
Modern Michelin-starred Indian cuisine from Atul Kochhar, known for his inventive dishes. £££. Mon-Sat L & D; Sun D. www.benaresrestaurant.com. 12a Berkeley Square House, Berkeley Square, W1J 6BS. T: 020-7629 8886. E6. Station: Green Park.
Chutney Mary Take a gourmet tour of seven Indian regions in this elegant restaurant. Try the marinated tandoor lobster. £££. Mon-Fri L & D; Sat L & D. www.chutney mary.com. 73 St James’s St, SW1 1PH. T: 020-7629 6688. E7. Station: Green Park.
Gaylord This restaurant has been serving North Indian recipes such as sheekh kebabs, Mughal dishes and thali platters since 1966. Make sure you save
The Rubens at The Palace
39 Buckingham Palace Road, London, SW1W 0PS Telephone: +44 (0)20 7834 6600 | rubenshotel.com
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DINING space for kulfi. ££. Daily L & D. www. gaylordlondon.com. 79-81 Mortimer St, W1W 7SJ. T: 020-7580 3615. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
INTERNATIONAL
JAPANESE & KOREAN
Bbar
Benihana
Masala Zone
At this relaxed South African-inspired restaurant and bar you can try 28 day-aged beef and grilled rib-eye, beef biltong and bobotie spring rolls with chutney. The décor has African touches too, such as giraffe-print sofas. ££. Daily L & D. www.bbar london.com. 43 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7958 7000. F6. Station: Victoria.
Chefs create griddle-cooked dishes on a hot plate in front of you, while entertaining you with tricks such as catching eggs in their chef’s hats. Fun for all ages. £££. Daily L & D. www.benihana.co.uk. 37 Sackville St, W1S 3EH (and branches). T: 0207494 2525. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
The Cavendish Timeless brasserie serving hearty mains such as lemon veal scallopini. Try the rib-eye steak and triple-fried chips. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.35new cavendish.co.uk. 35 New Cavendish St, W1G 9TR. T: 020-7487 3030. C5. Station: Baker Street.
This refined Japanese restaurant has tasting menus, plus excellent Kobe beef available in different cuts. Other dishes include sashimi, sushi and sukiyaki (hot pot). £££. Daily L & D. www.engawa.uk. 2 Ham Yard, W1D 7DT. T: 020-7287 5724. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
ITALIAN
RIVERSIDE
Cicchetti
Bateaux London
In this chain of recently refurbished restaurants, enjoy authentic Indian street food, plus the flavour-packed grand thali, in colourful settings. ££. Daily L & D. www.masalazone.com. 9 Marshall St, W1F 7ER (and branches). T: 020-7287 9966. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
Mint Leaf Contemporary dishes are served in this stylish restaurant; try the grilled prawns with fenugreek. £££. Mon-Fri L; daily D. www.mintleaflondon.com. Suffolk Place, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HX. T: 020-7930 9020. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Tamarind In this smart Mayfair dining room, you can enjoy Michelin-starred Mughal and North West Frontier cuisine such as lobster masala. It also caters for groups of up to 30 people seated. £££. Daily L & D. www.tamarindrestaurant.com. 20 Queen St, W1J 5PR. T: 020-7629 3561. E6. Station: Green Park.
Veeraswamy The UK’s oldest Indian restaurant is Michelinstarred and has an opulent interior. Try the six-hour cooked lamb shank, a selection of street-food dishes, and desserts such as almond and pineapple halwa tart. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.veeraswamy.com. Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 99 Regent St, W1B 4RS. T: 020-7734 1401. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Lively, all-day dining with regional specialities to share at this sophisticated restaurant, from antipasti and cured meats to seafood. Splashes of yellow leather, yellow flowers and lemons bring the Italian sunshine to the streets of London. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.sancarlocicchetti.co.uk. 30 Wellington St, WC2E 7BD (and Piccadilly branch). T: 020-7494 9435. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Verdi – Italian Kitchen Dine on stone-baked pizzas or afternoon tea at the famous music venue – check for free Friday music. ££. Tue-Sun L & D. www.verdiitalian.com. Door 12, Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 0207070 4401. F4. Station: South Kensington.
Engawa
Enjoy a cruise while dining on British cuisine. Booking essential. £££. Daily L & D; Sun jazz with three-course L. www.bateauxlondon.com. Embankment Pier, WC2N 6NU. T: 020-7695 1800. E8. Station: Embankment.
The London Showboat Drift down the River Thames while enjoying dinner and a cabaret show. Booking essential. ££££. Departs daily from Westminster Pier 7.45pm. www.citycruises.com. SW1A 2JR. T: 020-7740 0400. F8. Station: Westminster.
RS Hispaniola Delightful moored restaurant boat on the Thames, serving British dishes. Opt for the deck menu for a light bite. £££. Daily L & D. www.hispaniola.co.uk. Victoria Embankment/Hungerford Bridge, WC2N 5DJ. T: 020-7839 3011. E8. Station: Embankment.
SOUTH EAST ASIAN Chi Kitchen Pan-Asian cuisine in the department store Debenhams; see the chefs at work in an open-plan dining space. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.chikitchen. co.uk. 334-348 Oxford St, W1C 1JG. T: 020-3841 6888. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
Mango Tree This elegant fine-dining restaurant offers authentic Thai dishes, such as tom ka. You can also try the grilled Wagyu beef in spicy sauce. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.mangotree.org.uk. 46 Grosvenor Place, SW1X 7EQ. T: 020-7823 1888. F6. Station: Victoria.
SPANISH El Pirata
The Rubens at the Palace, near Buckingham Palace, has opened The Curry Room, as part of a hotel-wide refurbishment. The red banquettes and candles make it perfect for a romantic night out. As well as traditional dishes from KwaZulu-Natal province in South Africa, such as lamb curry, expect butter chicken, beef vindaloo, prawn curry and Bengal fish curry. The fish is sourced from Billingsgate Market and the meat is from The Rubens’ butcher – a Royal Warrant Holder. Finish with kulfi ice cream or papaya sorbet. 39 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PS. T: 020-7834 6600. www.rubenshotel.com. G6. Station: Victoria
VEGETARIAN Woodlands Well-flavoured cuisine from throughout India, from street food to dosas and thalis. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.woodlandsrestaurant.co.uk. 77 Marylebone Lane, W1U 2PS (and branches). T: 020-7486 3862. D6. Station: Bond Street.
THE CURRY ROOM © JACK HARDY
Creative curries
Choose from a large range of authentic hot and cold tapas in this Mayfair bar-restaurant, including cured meats and fresh seafood. There are good set menus. ££-£££. Mon-Fri L & D; Sat D. www.elpirata. co.uk. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AG. T: 020-7491 3810. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
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W H E R E
L O N D O N
P R O M O T I O N
BEST OF LONDON DINING Chi Kitchen Chi Kitchen is a contemporary pan-Asian restaurant offering tasty, colourful and exotic dishes that are both MSG-free and halal. The open-plan restaurant lets guests witness the chefs at work, as they freshly prepare Thai, Chinese, Malaysian, Japanese, Vietnamese and Korean cuisine. With such a wide selection of colourful, tasty and exotic dishes to choose from, Chi Kitchen promises to take diners on a truly unique culinary journey throughout South-East Asia. Mon-Sat: 7.30am-11pm (last orders 10.15pm) Sun 11.30am-10pm (last orders 9.15pm)
El Pirata
Ground Floor Debenhams (Henrietta Place entrance), 334-348 Oxford St, W1C 1JG. T: 020-3841 6888. www.chikitchen.co.uk. Station: Oxford Circus
For more than 20 years, El Pirata has hit the spot as London’s top restaurant for traditional Spanish tapas. Located in the heart of Mayfair, it’s the perfect place for a true taste of the Mediterranean in a chic yet friendly setting. It’s informal, inexpensive and, above all, authentic – the restaurant uses the finest Spanish produce, including jamón Ibérico, to create its classic dishes. Celebrity fans include Brian May and Johnny Depp, and food critics are unanimous in their praise, describing it as a ‘Spanish gem’ (Zagat) with ‘surprisingly good prices’ (Harden’s), and ‘a favourite with Mayfair’s Spanish community and converts to the new Iberian cause’ (Square Meal ). Mon-Fri noon-11.30pm; Sat 6pm-11.30pm; closed Sun. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AQ. T: 020-7491 3810/020-7409 1315. www.elpirata.co.uk. Station: Hyde Park Corner/Green Park
Little India One of the few Indian restaurants owned and managed by a woman. Why not come and try our signature dish ‘Naga Chicken’ – cooked in spices and a naga chilli and tossed dry. As well as this, we pride ourselves in traditional home-style cooking. Come and enjoy a truly unique and memorable dining experience whilst indulging yourself in the real taste of fine Indian cuisine. Open seven days a week – Monday to Saturday, noon-11.30pm and Sunday noon-11pm. Dinner reservations are strongly recommended as Little India is really little! Perfectly located near the Royal Albert Hall, Harrods, Kensington Palace and the Natural History Museum.
Mango Tree
32 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 020-7584 3476/020-7589 9315 www.littleindialondon.com. Station: Gloucester Road
Mango Tree is launching a mouth-watering new spring seasonal menu to welcome the first wave of warm weather. Mango Tree’s dishes use a selection of this spring’s seasonal ingredients imported directly from Thailand. The special dishes include Yum Pak Boong Grob Lab Gai, crispy morning glory served with spicy and sour minced chicken salad, and Tod Mun Pla Kai Kem, spicy fish cake with red chilli paste filled with salted egg. Get 30% off on your food bill when you order a minimum of one dish from the spring seasonal menu. Quote ‘MTspring18’ when you make a reservation. This offer cannot be in conjection with any other offers and is valid from 1 Apr-31 May for bookings of 1-8 people. 46 Grosvernor Place, SW1X 7EQ. T: 020-7823 1888. www.mangotree.org.uk. Station: Victoria/Hyde Park Corner. Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234. www.mangotree.org.uk. Station: Knightsbridge
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NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE
Shall we dance? Torchbearers, hot-wax dancers and transgender burlesque performers don’t make for your usual night out, which might explain why Tonteria, a club on Sloane Square, counts Prince Harry, Leonardo DiCaprio and Rihanna as regulars, alongside Jessie J and the model Lottie Moss. The newly launched club night Thursday Ritual attracts socialites, City workers and 20-something Chelsea locals. The weekly night is inspired by the ancient sacrifice rituals in Mayan culture in Central America. The Mayans believed blood was a potent source of nourishment for the gods, and that the sacrifice of a living human was a powerful offering. So, expect to see staff dressed in tribal feather headpieces and animal teeth necklaces, wearing Mayan masks or elaborate glittery make-up – think spider’s webs, scars and
Mayan-style tattoos of spiritual symbols and revered animals. You might be relieved to know that none have followed the tradition of filing down their teeth… The rustic décor looks like a cross between a Mexican Day of the Dead festival and a Polynesian tribal village, so look out for skulls hidden among palms. Resident DJ Ruslan spins pop, hip-hop and remixed R ‘n’ B tunes, and, in keeping with the Mayan theme, there are tribal touches: you can’t miss the DJ decks that are in a giant skull. The real entertainment comes from a fleet of transgender burlesque dancers dressed in lingerie, and performers who pour hot wax over themselves as part of a sensual routine. Another performance comes in the form of drumming and flame torches, which starts around 1am. It certainly
makes for a memorable night – you can capture the moment in the Cîroc Vodka photobooth machine. The compact venue has no space for an official dance floor, so you’ll be packed in alongside the performers in the dark – with occasional red strobe lights illuminating people’s faces. Opt for a cocktail, bubbles in an ice bucket or – you are on holiday, after all – shots with sparklers in them. The digital menu is illuminated, which is handy in the dark. While the performers are dressed up, clubgoers wear everything from work suits to jackets and trainers. If you haven’t already guessed, anything goes here, as long as you adhere to the dress code of no flat sandals, flip-flops or shorts. Unless you’ve wangled yourself on to the guest list, your anticipation will build as you queue for 20 minutes or so. The night kicks off at 11pm and the club gets busy after midnight, going until late. Remember to take ID. 7-12 Sloane Square, SW1W 8EG. T: 020-7881 5991. www.tonteria.co.uk
IMAGES © TONTERIA/WWW.RYANDINHAM.CO.UK
Famous faces from Prince Harry to Rihanna have been spotted at this club in Chelsea. If you’re looking for somewhere to dance the night away, then head here, says Sarah Riches
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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM
Most bars open 11am-11pm, most nightclubs open 10pm-3am. The UK’s legal drinking age is 18. ID may be required. T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, Railway and Docklands Light Railway. References (A1 etc.) refer to coordinates on map (p. 80-81)
TRADITIONAL PUBS The Blackfriar This Grade II-listed Art Nouveau pub, which opened 100 years ago, offers traditional cask ales. www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk. 174 Queen Victoria St, EC4V 4EG. T: 020-7236 5474. E9. Station: Blackfriars.
Cittie of Yorke The dark nooks and crannies, rafted roof and chimney-less fire in this Grade II-listed building take you back to 1430. Enjoy a pint in this traditional pub for a real taste of historic London. 22 High Holborn, WC1V 6BN. T: 020-7242 7670. D9. Station: Chancery Lane.
The Dog and Duck A real-ale pub with regularly changing cask beers as well as pub food and bar snacks. www.nicholsons pubs.co.uk. 18 Bateman St, W1D 3AJ. T: 020-7494 0697. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
The Flask This 17th-century pub boasts Byron and Shelley as past patrons and is allegedly haunted. www.the flaskhighgate.com. 77 Highgate West Hill, N6 6BU. T: 020-8348 7346. Off map. Station: Highgate.
The French House Creative types love this quirky, cosy pub in the heart of Soho – there is no music. www.french housesoho.com. 49 Dean St, W1D 5BG. T: 0207437 2477. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Waxy O’Connor’s
The Back Room
Long-standing Irish bar, with four bars over six levels. It has regular live music, and also screens Ireland’s major sporting events. www.waxy oconnors.co.uk. 14-16 Rupert St, W1D 6DD. T: 020-7287 0255. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Located next to Hard Rock Cafe, the bar boasts vintage and iconic music items, including a door from the Apple Studios signed by The Beatles. Enjoy cocktails, pizzas, burgers and a great vibe. www.hardrock.com. 148b Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 020-7514 1700. E6. Station: Green Park.
Waxy’s Little Sister A smaller, slightly quieter sister venue of the huge Waxy’s, which has traditional Irish beers and whiskies, and also great bar food. www.waxy oconnors.co.uk. 20 Wardour St, W1D 6QG. T: 020-7287 0255. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese This Grade II-listed pub was built soon after the Great Fire of 1666, and has vaults which are even older than that. Enjoy a pint of English ale and dine on a range of simple pub food. 145 Fleet St, EC4A 2BU. T: 020-7353 6170. D9. Station: Blackfriars.
BARS & CLUBS 68 and Boston Sophisticated venue with separate cocktail and wine bars. Expect wines from unusual destinations, including Uruguay, with all bottles at just £20. www.68andboston.com. 5 Greek St, W1D 4DD. T: 020-7287 3713. D7. Station: Leicester Square.
Booking Office Bar The ground floor of the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel has a 29m-long bar surrounded by cavernous arched ceilings and stone walls dating back to 1873. There’s also a good menu of bar snacks. www.bookingofficebar.com. Euston Rd, NW1 2AR. T: 020-7841 3566. C7. Station: King’s Cross.
Burlock Rum is definitely the spirit of choice here, in a relaxed bar that specialises in many types of cocktails using the Caribbean drink and unusual ingredients. www.burlocklondon.co.uk. 31 Duke St, W1U 1LG. T: 020-7935 3303. D6. Station: Bond Street.
BYOC At ‘Bring Your Own Cocktail’, pay £30, bring a spirit of your choice and the mixologist will create cocktails for you. Booking is recommended. www.byoc.co.uk. 9-11 Basement, Camden High St, NW1 7JE (and branches). T: 020-3441 2424. Off map. Station: Mornington Crescent.
The George Inn This historic pub was established during the medieval period and still retains its original coaching houses. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ george-inn. 75-77 Borough High St, SE1 1NH. T: 020-7407 2056. E10. Station: London Bridge.
The Glasshouse Stores This is a comforting old Sam Smith’s pub, with wood-panelled walls and etched glass. There are plenty of nooks and crannies in which to hide away, making it a romantic spot. The beers and food are good. 55 Brewer St, W1F 9UJ. T: 020-7287 5278. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
The Guinea The site of an inn since 1423, this friendly venue has great Young’s ales and bar food, including steak pies. www.theguinea.co.uk. 30 Bruton Place, W1J 6NL. T: 020-7409 1728. E6. Station: Bond Street/Oxford Street.
The Magpie & Stump Opposite the Old Bailey, the pub dates back to the 1500s, and once doubled up as a public viewing spot for hangings at Newgate Prison. www.magpieandstump.com. 18 Old Bailey, EC4M 7EP. T: 020-7248 5085. B8. Station: St Paul’s.
IMAGE COURTESY OF THE GUNMAKERS
The Punchbowl This popular Mayfair pub-restaurant offers a variety of ales in its unique, classy surroundings. www.punchbowllondon.com. 41 Farm St, W1J 5RP. T: 020-7493 6841. E6. Station: Green Park.
The Spaniards Inn Follow in the footsteps of past regulars, including Dick Turpin and Charles Dickens, at this pub – one of the oldest in London. Its Sunday roast and pies are popular – booking is advisable. www.the spaniardshampstead.co.uk. Spaniard’s Rd, NW3 7JJ. T: 020-8731 8406. Off map. Station: Hampstead.
Raising the bar Not many bars are home to a barbershop, but The Gunmakers, a 19th-century pub in Clerkenwell, is no ordinary venue. The ground floor is brimming with hanging plants and flowers, while a spiral staircase leads to a bar with antiques, Chesterfield sofas and art on turquoise walls. If the weather is sunny, head to the leafy beer garden with lanterns hanging from beams, and blankets and heaters to keep you warm. Take your pick from Asian-inspired dishes made using seasonal British produce, created by chef Madison Duffy (previously from Wright Bros and Coya). Plates include ox tongue spring roll with chilli jam, and crispy pig’s ears with nori. And as for that hairdresser? Upstairs in the attic, Gun Club has original barbershop chairs, and you can enjoy cocktails from its retro bar while you have a trim, or visit on a night when a DJ spins tunes. 13 Eyre St Hill, EC1R 5ET. T: 020-7278 1022. www.thegunmakers.co.uk. C9. Station: Farringdon
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NIGHTLIFE Cartizze Bar
Jack Solomon’s Club
Scarfes Bar
Cocktail destination in Mayfair majoring in timeless luxury, known for its Bellinis, with elegant Art Deco surroundings and bar food including oysters. www.cartizzebar.com. 4 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388. E6. Station: Bond Street.
This new basement speakeasy bar in Soho is accessed by a hidden entrance, and boasts old-school glamour, with special cocktails and a large dance floor. Email for the guest list. 41 Great Windmill St, W1D 7LU. www.jacksolomons. com. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
This elegant bar is named after satirical cartoonist Gerald Scarfe, who created the caricatures of iconic British figures that are painted on the walls. Enjoy cocktails inspired by famous characters Scarfe has drawn, with Indian-style bar snacks. www.scarfesbar.com. Rosewood London hotel, 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8611. D8. Station: Holborn.
City Social The bar next to Jason Atherton’s restaurant has an Art Deco interior, a Prohibitioninspired cocktail list and amazing views. www.city sociallondon.com. Tower 42, 25 Old Broad St, EC2N 1HQ. T: 020-7877 7703. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.
C.O.L.D Bar (The City of London Distillery) This retro-styled basement cocktail bar is a working gin distillery, and offers tastings, classes and tours. It’s tucked away down an alleyway in an atmospheric, old part of the City. www.cityof londondistillery.com. 22-24 Bride Lane, EC4Y 8DT. T: 020-7936 3636. D9. Station: Blackfriars.
Drakes Tabanco A Spanish-style tapas bar that serves rare sherries, aged in ancient oak barrels. There are also craft beers, natural wines and Andalucian tapas. www.drakestabanco.com. 3 Windmill St, W1T 2HY. T: 020-7637 9388. D7. Station: Goodge Street.
Dukes Bar Outstanding bar located in the hotel of the same name, and renowned for its superior martinis. Oozing old-world charm, with leather armchairs in a cosy interior, the martinis are made at your table and served from a century-old wooden trolley. www.dukes hotel.com. Dukes London, 35 St James Place, SW1A 1NY. T: 020-7491 4840. E7. Station: Green Park.
Experimental Cocktail Club In an old Chinatown townhouse, this stylish bar is tucked away, but worth the search for its inventive cocktails. Email booking is highly recommended. www.experimentalcocktailclublondon.com. 13a Gerrard St, W1D 5PS. T: 020-7434 3559. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
Freedom This gay-friendly venue attracts a trendy crowd to its stylish cocktail bar and the nightclub underneath. www.freedombarsoho.com. 60-66 Wardour St, W1F 0TA. T: 020-7734 0071. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Gong Located in The Shard, Gong is one of the highest Champagne bars in London and is the ideal place for sunset cocktails. www.the-shard.com. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8000. F10. Station: London Bridge.
Good Godfreys Old-style glamour and classic cocktails are served with a hint of history at this suave establishment. Try signature cocktails including the Astor Hip Flask, named after the New York Waldorf Astoria’s owner. www.waldorfhilton.co.uk. The Waldorf Hilton, Aldwych, WC2B 4DD. T: 020-7836 2400. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Gordon’s Wine Bar London’s oldest wine bar has been uncorking bottles since 1890 in its candle lit stonearched basement. Try to go early to grab a table as it can get very busy. www.gordons winebar.com. 47 Villiers St, WC2N 6NE. T: 020-7930 1408. E8. Station: Embankment.
Looking Glass Cocktail Club Enter a giant glass into a dimly-lit room decorated with Louis XVI-inspired furniture. This speakeasy has regular DJs, live music and performances. 49 Hackney Rd, E2 7NX. T: 020-7613 3936. www.lookingglasslondon.co. uk. Off map. Station: Hoxton.
St Pancras Champagne Bar Europe’s longest Champagne bar takes pride of place in the station where the Paris Eurostar arrives. There is a button you can press for refills. www.searcyschampagnebars. co.uk. St Pancras International, Upper Concourse, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross.
Five of London’s Underground stations are named after pubs, including Angel and Swiss Cottage
Mews Cocktail Bar Deep leather sofas and an 18th-century chandelier set the tone for exquisite wines, fresh fruit cocktails and light dishes in a classy neighbourhood. www.mewsofmayfair.com. 10 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388. E6. Station: Bond Street.
The Nightjar Enjoy Prohibition-era cocktails at this stylish basement bar in Shoreditch, with live music most nights. The elaborate cocktails are amazing. www.barnightjar.com. 129 City Rd, EC1V 1JB. T: 020-7253 4101. C10. Station: Old Street.
Old Bengal Bar This place is converted from a former warehouse located in a quiet back street, with original brick walls and leather sofas. Enjoy classic cocktails. www.oldbengalbar.com. 16a New St, EC2M 4TR. T: 020-3503 0780. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.
Opium Cocktail Bar Tucked away in Chinatown, this is a warren of dimly-lit rooms styled like a 1920s Shanghai bar. Sip a lychee martini and choose food from the dim sum menu. www.opiumchinatown.com. Booking is recommended. 15 Gerrard St, W1D 6JE. T: 020-7734 7276. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
Oriole Number 17 out of the World’s 50 Best Bars in 2017, this spacious cocktail bar is below Smithfield Market. It stages live jazz and blues music most nights, all in beautiful, explorer-décor surroundings. www.oriolebar.com. Smithfield Markets, East Poultry Ave, EC1A 9LH. T: 020-3457 8099. D9. Station: Farringdon.
Primo Bar Enjoy cocktails in this laid-back bar, which stages free live music every night. Its location makes a great meeting spot. The venue focuses on acoustic sounds, bringing artists and bands around the world, and it puts up-and-coming talent in the spotlight. The menu includes beef burgers, pastas and salads. www.primo bar.co.uk. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7282. F8. Station: Waterloo.
Reverend JW Simpson This cocktail bar is a real slice of ‘shabby chic’ – and is the genuine ex-abode of the good Reverend. Scruffy sofas and a laid-back vibe are its hallmark. You can also sign up for a cocktail masterclass. www.revjwsimpson.com. 32 Goodge St, W1T 2QJ. T: 020-3174 1155. E7. Station: Goodge Street.
Six Storeys As the name suggests, this Soho Square townhouse is split over six levels. Each floor is decorated in a bohemian style, with plush chairs, vintage lampshades and patterned wallpaper. Cocktails are its speciality – try the quince and blue cheese-infused gin. www.sixstoreys.com. 11 Soho Square, W1D 3QE. T: 020-3504 7381. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Trader Vic’s This popular tiki-style basement bar is more than 50 years old. Relax and enjoy a mai tai cocktail, surrounded by Polynesian wooden masks. Live music is staged on Friday and Saturday nights. www.tradervicslondon.com. London Hilton on Park Lane, 22 Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208 4113. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Trader’s Wine Bar Sample a wide range of wines from around the globe in this intimate venue, inspired by centuries of merchant ships sailing up the Thames. Try a sharing board of cured meats and cheeses. www.traderswine.co.uk. Ivory House, Central Basin, St Katharine Docks, E1W 1AT. T: 020-7481 3796. Off map. Station: Tower Hill.
The Vault The specialist whisky bar Milroy’s has tables made of barrels, and The Vault, behind the bookcases, is a speakeasy with cosy arches. 3 Greek St, W1D 4NX. www.thevaultsoho.co.uk. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
The Zetter Townhouse Tony Conigliaro is known for his groundbreaking cocktails in this lounge, with eccentric décor complete with leather armchairs, velvet cushions and a cosy fireplace. www.thezettertownhouse. com. 49-50 St John’s Square, EC1V 4JJ. T: 020-7324 4545. C9. Station: Farringdon.
CASINOS The Casino at the Empire This spectacular venue houses a restaurant and several bars, plus a dedicated poker room and the latest table and electronic games. www.the casinolsq.com. 5-6 Leicester Square, WC2H 7NA. T: 020-3733 1315. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
Hippodrome Casino Massive West End venue with gaming on three floors, including roulette and baccarat. There’s also a restaurant, plus a basement venue for live music. www.hippodromecasino.com. Cranbourn St, Leicester Square, WC2H 7JH. T: 020-7769 8888. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
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The Sportsman Casino Traditional and electronic gaming here, including three-card poker and American roulette. Enjoy a poker lounge and sports bar, plus informal dining. www.thesportsmancasino.com. 16 Old Quebec St, W1H 7AF. T: 020-3051 4616. D6. Station: Marble Arch.
LIVE ENTERTAINMENT 606 Club This relaxed members’ jazz cellar and restaurant serves great food to blues, R ’n’ B MUSIC, played by British-based independent artists on stage. There is also an intimate basement club and restaurant. Liane Carroll, Polly Gibbons and Jamie Cullum have performed here. www.606club.co.uk. 90 Lots Rd, SW10 0QD. T: 020-7352 5953. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.
The Blues Kitchen This busy music venue stages blues, soul and jazz music most nights, plus there’s a DJ at weekends. There are more than 80 varieties of bourbon and rye. It also serves Americanstyle food such as buffalo wings, gumbo and cornbread. www.theblueskitchen.com. 111 Camden High St, NW1 7JN (and branches). T: 020-7387 5277. Off map. Station: Camden Town.
Bunga Bunga Part restaurant, part bar, with lots of live entertainment, this Covent Garden venue has all the makings of a theatrical night out. Enjoy Italian cuisine as you watch the live cabaret acts. www.bungabunga-london.com. 167 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PG. T: 020-7590 3602. D8. Station: Holborn.
The Comedy Store One of the UK’s best stand-up and improvised comedy spots. The Comedy Store Players (Sun) sees the likes of Paul Merton and Neil Mullarkey, and there are also late-night stand-up slots. www.thecomedystore.co.uk. 1a Oxendon St, SW1Y 4EE. T: 0844-871 7699. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
London Cabaret Club British-themed cabaret. ‘Best of British Pop’ fuses acrobatics and dance with hits from the 1960s to the present day. Dinner and VIP tickets available. A DJ takes over until 3am. www.thelondoncabaret club.com. Victoria House, Bloomsbury Square, WC1B 4DA. T: 020-7242 0002. D8. Station: Holborn.
Ronnie Scott’s The famous jazz venue has hosted top musicians for more than 50 years including Sarah Vaughan, Prince, Ella Fitzgerald and Miles Davis. The weekly Sunday Jazz lunch has no minimum age, which makes it perfect for families to enjoy jazz music together. This month’s acts include Dee Dee Bridgewater & The Memphis Soulphony (3-5 May). www.ronniescotts.co.uk. 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Stringfellow’s Over the years, a vast number of celebrities and members of the public have enjoyed entertainment supplied by more than 80 ‘Angels’ dancing at their tables at Peter Stringfellow’s world-famous Gentlemen’s Club and restaurant. Make sure you visit the opulent, velvet-adorned Red Rooms. Free entry when dining – the food is impressive. www.stringfellows.co.uk. 16-19 Upper St Martin’s Lane, WC2H 9EF. T: 020-7240 5534. E8. Station: Leicester Square. www.wheretraveler.com 75
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SPAS & SALONS | THE GUIDE
Quick fixes
Put your best face forward As Botox increases in popularity, Anna Frame heads to Harley Street and finds out where you can have a discreet cosmetic procedure while you’re here on holiday My Baby Botox session began with a thorough consultation with Dr Somji. He takes a holistic, less-is-more approach to Botox, asking clients to make funny faces in an effort to see how their facial muscles work. As a 46-year-old, working mother of two I look frazzled for much of the time – and I don’t believe in miracles. I asked Dr Somji to work his magic and make me look less tired. Lying on the couch, his assistant applied a numbing cream where I would be injected: in the frown line between my eyes, by the crow’s feet around my eyes and my chin. The Botox was injected via tiny needles – a fast and painless process that was quicker than the consultation. I was warned that two possible side effects are bruising and a headache, though thankfully I had neither. The results didn’t kick in for at least 72 hours – they can take a fortnight – but so far I’m thrilled with my more youthful appearance. When the Botox wears off after five months, I’ll be heading back for more. 10 Harley St, W1G 9PF. T: 020-8418 0362. www.drmedispa.com
LIBERTY A quick facial is just what anyone needs after a full-on day of sightseeing. The iconic department store, Liberty, has 15-minute Skin Laundry facials that use light and lasers to give your skin a deep clean. Great Marlborough St, W1B 5AH
LONDON PROFESSIONAL AESTHETICS Tucked away off Old Street, this clinic offers wrinkle-reducing injections, which take 45-minutes and will keep your face looking fresh for up to three months. 193 Whitecross St, EC1Y 8QP
HARLEY INJECTABLES Perk up your pout at Mayfair’s boutique clinic Harley Injectables, which was founded by the nurse Alice Jenkins. For just 45 minutes of your time, you can enhance your lips and leave with a plumper look. 58 South Molton St, W1K 5SL
FACE IMAGE © ISTOCK; LIBERTY IMAGE COURTESY OF LIBERTY
In this image-obsessed Instagram era, the trend for cosmetic procedures has become mainstream. Even those young and lucky enough to have skin like fine china want to resist wrinkles – there’s been a 41 per cent rise in millennials using Botox in recent years. Botox has been around for nearly three decades; it is used medically to calm muscle spasms and even migraines. The recent surge in Botox’s popularity is due to the way it softens the appearance of lines and wrinkles, including crow’s feet and frown lines. However, there’s a fine line (no pun intended) between looking fresh-faced and refreshed, or ‘frozen’ and unable to express emotion. If you’re worried about the latter, the solution could be Baby Botox – a lighter version of the treatment. I opted for this ‘baby’ variety, in the safe hands of Dr Munir Somji at Dr MediSpa clinic. His surgery is on Harley Street – home to the country’s best private medical practioners since the 19th century. The clinic offers many procedures, from fillers and facelifts to hair transplants and weight-loss treatments. 76 W H E R E LO N D O N I M AY 2018
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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Most spas are open seven days a week, but check for opening hours. References at the end of listings (A1 etc.) refer to coordinates on map p. 80-81
SPAS Aveda Institute This three-storey salon offers cuts, colour, blow dries and botanical treatments using Aveda’s plant-based products. The Express Beauty Bar has a range of treatments lasting 15 and 30 minutes. www.avedainstitute.co.uk. 174 High Holborn, WC1V 7AA. T: 020-7759 7355. D8. Station: Holborn.
Blue Harbour Health Club & Spa This exclusive members-only spa offers day passes for £25. Swim in the 17m pool, use the fitness equipment or visit the Figaro Hair Salon. There are treatment rooms for disabled visitors. www.blueharbourspa.co.uk. Chelsea Harbour Drive, SW10 0XG. T: 020-7300 5011. Off map. Station: Imperial Wharf.
Body Relaxation High-quality deep-tissue massage directly in your hotel room, apartment or at the Sloane Street studio. Open until late. T: 07941-505982.
Elemis Day Spa This spa specialises in facials that tackle ageing, pigmentation and blemishes. There is a private suite, so you can share the experience with your guest while sipping Champagne. The Speed Spa offers treatments in 30 minutes. www.elemis.com/ dayspa. 2 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EX. T: 0207499 4995. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Jurlique Founded by Dr Jürgen Klein, a biochemist, and his wife Ulrike, a botanist, this spa uses their natural skincare range. Treatments include an anti-stress facial, which eases tension in your face, neck and shoulders. www.jurlique.co.uk. 489 Oxford St, W1C 2AU. T: 0800-040 7685. D8. Station: Bond Street.
Mandara Spa
Rocco Forte at Brown’s Hotel An oasis of calm in the West End that boasts a 24-hour gym and luxury treatments including a age-defying gold facial and carat-diamond rituals for the face and body. There are also treatments for two. www.brownshotel.com. Albemarle St, W1S 4BP. T: 020-7518 4009. E7. Station: Green Park.
The Spa at Dolphin Square
Spa Illuminata This spa’s menu includes facials, massages and a men’s menu. Anti-ageing treatments include anti-wrinkle injections and skin peels. www.spa illuminata.com. 63 South Audley St, W1K 2QS. T: 020-7499 7777. E6. Station: Marble Arch.
Urban Retreat at Harrods This is one of the few places in London that offers paraffin wax baths. Special services include weaves, extensions, wig creation and cutting. There’s a hammam, too. www.urbanretreat.co.uk. Fifth floor, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7893 8333. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.
Ushvani Plush spa with a philosophy that is based on ancient Asian culture and takes a holistic approach to pampering. Treatments include a Malay massage and Balinese massage, which incorporate herbs and spices. www.ushvani.com. 1 Cadogan Gardens, SW3 2RJ. T: 020-7730 2888. G5. Station: Sloane Square.
SALONS Gentlemen’s Tonic
Mandarin Oriental
A traditional barbershop in Mayfair, which offers wet shaves, manicures and haircuts for an elegant result. www.trumpers.com. 9 Curzon St, W1J 5HQ. T: 020-7499 1850. E6. Station: Green Park.
One Aldwych This spa offers a range of treatments including massages, manicures and waxing. Brands used are Natura Bissé and Oskia. The health club is excellent, while the pool is chlorine-free and has underwater music. www.onealdwych.com. One Aldwych, WC2B 4BZ. T: 020-7300 0600. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
The Refinery This men-only spa has treatments ranging from a traditional shave to a sports massage. If you want to master a wet shave, you can book a Principles of Shaving lesson. Also available at Harrods. www.the-refinery.com. 60 Brook St, W1K 5DU. T: 020-7409 2001. E6. Station: Bond Street.
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Moroccan-inspired luxury. Signature massages include the Moroccan Majorelle and Arabian Ceremony. Treatments can be combined with a hammam. www.dolphinsquare.co.uk/spa. Chichester St, SW1V 3LX. T: 020-7798 6767. Off map. Station: Pimlico.
This spa has an Asian touch: the gorgeous décor includes a bamboo forest, Mondrian paintings and Japanese shoji screens. Try the warm bamboo massage, where bamboo stalks are used on your body. www.mandaraspa.com. Park Plaza Hotel, 200 Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7300. F8. Station: Waterloo. A luxury spa inspired by Chinese massage methods. Facilities include a 17m pool and a gym. You can book a session with trainer Ruben Tabares – sessions can be held in Hyde Park if you wish. www.mandarinoriental.com. 66 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LA. T: 020-7235 2000. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.
APPLYING SCIENCE TO PERSONAL TRAINING
This is a stylish men-only grooming establishment with a barbershop, body and hair treatments and a full range of products. www.gentlemenstonic.com. 31a Bruton Place, W1J 6NN. T: 020-7297 4343. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Geo F Trumper
Hershesons Blow Dry Bar At this trendy hairdresser to the stars, you can ask for your favourite fashion-forward look from a menu and a stylist will create it in 30 minutes. www.hershesons.com. Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 020-7493 1600. E6. Station: Bond Street.
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Jo Hansford This hair-colour salon, which is home to top stylists, is renowned for its colour correction work. The salon also has an in-house chef. www.jo hansford.com. 48 South Audley St, W1K 2QB. T: 020-7495 7774. E6. Station: Marble Arch.
Windle & Moodie This award-winning hair salon specialises in upfront catwalk looks. The 20-minute Speed Styling service includes updos. www.windleand moodie.com. 41-45 Shorts Gardens, WC2H 9AP. T: 020-7497 2393. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Late appointments available
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ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE TICKET INFORMATION Oyster cards & Travelcards
Concierges in the capital use Where London for information – these concierges share their top tips
Tony Cayley
Tony Rossi
Justin Wallerson
head concierge at The LaLiT London
head concierge at Crowne Plaza London Kensington
assistant head concierge at Corinthia Hotel London
What’s your most popular request? Tickets to the RHS Chelsea Flower Show (22-26 May), in the grounds of the Royal Hospital Chelsea. It’s a great way to start the summer.
What’s your most popular request? Windsor Castle – the setting for Prince Harry and Meghan Markle’s wedding on 19 May.
What’s your most popular request? It’s currently for tickets to the Churchill War Rooms, especially since Darkest Hour’s cinema release.
Any strange requests? One wealthy guest requested a chauffeurdriven bulletproof car, one guest required a top-up of Percy Pig sweets in his room every day, while another wanted to buy a rare book from the Narnia collection – a signed first addition of CS Lewis’ The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe. What makes your hotel special? The 120-year-old building combines Indian culture with British charm. The bespoke Hyderabadi chandeliers, above our Indian restaurant Baluchi, are particularly impressive.
Do you have any family-friendly tips? South Kensington’s museums are a stone’s throw from the hotel. London Transport Museum, as it’s a fun place detailing the city’s transport network. Any romantic ideas? Star-gaze at the Royal Observatory’s planetarium or stroll on a soaring walkway in Kew Gardens. Share a quintessential English experience... Stratford-Upon-Avon is a great destination. Enjoy a pub lunch at the Old Thatch Tavern, one of its most historic landmarks. It doesn’t get more British than Shakespeare!
This image: Buckingham Palace Right: The Round Tower at Windsor Castle
Any strange requests? To arrange a private tour of London’s lidos this spring. What should visitors do if they have just one day? Take a private boat tour of the Thames from Westminster Pier to Tower Pier. Then meet a private Blue Badge Guide who can take you to see the Crown Jewels at the Tower of London. Your guide can also take you through the City of London, St Paul’s Cathedral, Hyde Park and Buckingham Palace. Have dinner at Rules – the oldest restaurant in the city – then visit the theatre.
An Oyster card is a pre-paid travel smart card. It’s a cheap way to pay for single journeys by bus, Tube, tram, DLR, London Overground and most National Rail train services in London. You can buy a Visitor Oyster card before you leave home for a £5 fee and pre-load it with credit at www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk. The system has nine zones. Zone 1 is in central London. Visitors can buy Oyster cards and Day Travelcards from stations, Visitor Centres and any Oyster Ticket Shop. UK visitors can also pay for their travel with a UK-issued contactless payment card. See www.tfl.gov.uk/visitinglondon. An Oyster card also gives you a 25 per cent discount on London’s cable car, the Emirates Air Line, and a 10 per cent discount on single journeys on most MBNA Thames Clippers river buses. For more info, visit www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk.
GETTING AROUND For 24-hour travel information, visit the Transport for London (TfL) website. www.tfl.gov.uk/ visitinglondon or call T: 0343-222 1234.
London Underground (The Tube) www.tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground map (opposite). Services run Mon-Sat 5am-12.30am and Sun 7.30am-11.30pm on most routes. The Night Tube service runs on Fri-Sat on the Victoria, Jubilee, Central, Northern (via Embankment) and Piccadilly lines. Fares vary; a Zone 1 adult fare costs £4.90 (£2.40 with an Oyster card).
London Buses London buses run 5am-12.30am. Night buses (midnight-4.30am) operate on main routes (several services are 24-hour). You can’t pay for a bus fare with cash, so use a Visitor Oyster card, Oyster card, Travelcard or a UK-issued contactless payment card. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/ buses. A single fare is £1.50 with an Oyster card or a UK-issued contactless payment card.
London Overground www.tfl.gov.uk. Trains run Mon-Sat 5am-midnight; Sun 7am-11.30pm on most routes. Please check for 24-hour service at weekends.
Docklands Light Railway Trains run approximately every three-anda-half minutes to 10 minutes. Mon-Sat 5.30am12.30am; Sun 7am-11pm. T: 020-7363 9700.
Trains Paddington serves the West Country, Wales and the South Midlands. Liverpool Street and Fenchurch Street serve East Anglia and Essex. Euston King’s Cross St Pancras Marylebone and St Pancras King’s Cross International (connects to St Pancras) serve north and central Britain, Charing Cross and southeast England. London Bridge Waterloo Victoria serve southern England. and For times and tickets, visit www.nationalrail. co.uk or call T: 0845-748 4950. St Pancras International. Eurostar uses Visit www.eurostar.com for more information, times and ticket prices. Call T: 0344-822 4777 (from outside the UK, T: 01233-617 575).
BUCKINGHAM PALACE © EDWARD PARKER; WINDSOR CASTLE © ROYAL COLLECTION TRUST, HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II 2014 PETER PACKER; JUSTIN WALLERSON COURTESY OF CORINTHIA HOTE LONDON; TONY ROSSI COURTESY OF CROWNE PLAZA LONDON KENSINGTON; TONY CAYLEY COURTESY OF THE LALIT LONDON
AT YOUR SERVICE
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ESSENTIALS
Willesden Green
Stonebridge Park Harlesden
Brondesbury Park
Willesden Junction
Kilburn Park Maida Vale Warwick Avenue Royal Oak Westbourne Park
Paddington
Ladbroke Grove Latimer Road
North Acton
Shepherd’s Bush
White City
Shepherd’s Bush Market
Stamford Brook
Ravenscourt Park
West Kensington
High Street Kensington
Green Park
Gloucester Road
Earl’s Court
Goodge Street
Victoria
Hoxton
Charing Cross
Liverpool Street
Bank
Aldgate East
Stepney Green
Whitechapel
Aldgate
Cannon Street Monument
Tower Gateway Rotherhithe
Bermondsey
Canada Water
West Brompton
Parsons Green
Surrey Quays
River Thames
Step-free access from street to platform
Bakerloo
Vauxhall
East Putney
Canning Town
District
Hammersmith & City
Custom House for ExCeL
Blackwall East India
Emirates Royal Docks
Heron Quays
North Greenwich
Elephant & Castle
Jubilee
Metropolitan
Prince Regent Royal Albert
West Silvertown Emirates Greenwich Peninsula
Pontoon Dock
New Cross Gate
Northern
Victoria
Cyprus Gallions Reach Beckton
King George V 17/E/3249/P
Greenwich New Cross
Brockley
Piccadilly
Beckton Park
London City Airport
Mudchute
Cutty Sark for Maritime Greenwich Queens Road Peckham
Circle
Royal Victoria
Island Gardens
Borough
Southfields
Central
Star Lane
Langdon Park
Canary Wharf
Lambeth North
Putney Bridge Step-free access from street to train
East Ham Upton Park
Crossharbour
Southwark
Imperial Wharf
Upney Barking
West Ham
Bow BromleyRoad by-Bow Devons Road
South Quay Waterloo Pimlico
Fulham Broadway
Elm Park Dagenham East Dagenham Heathway
Stratford
West India Quay
Wapping
River Thames
London Bridge
Woodgrange Park
Forest Gate Maryland
Abbey Road
Westferry Poplar
Limehouse
Tower Hill
Fenchurch Street
Embankment
Pudding Mill Lane
All Saints Shadwell
Blackfriars Temple
Westminster
Bow Church
St. Paul’s
Hornchurch
Plaistow
Moorgate Chancery Lane
Ilford Manor Park
Becontree
Bethnal Green Bethnal Mile Green End
Shoreditch High Street
Barbican
Upminster Bridge
Seven Kings
Wanstead Park
Stratford High Street
Cambridge Heath
Old Street
Covent Garden
St. James’s Park
Homerton London Fields
Haggerston
Farringdon
Leicester Mansion Square House
Piccadilly Circus
Sloane Square
South Kensington
Holborn
Tottenham Court Road
Knightsbridge
Barons Court
Hammersmith
Regent’s Park
Marble Arch
Dalston Junction
Angel Euston Square Russell Square
Queensway
Caledonian Road & Barnsbury
King’s Cross St. Pancras
Bayswater Oxford Circus
Stoke Newington Leytonstone High Road St. James Rectory Street Road Dalston Stratford Leyton Kingsland Clapton International Hackney Canonbury Hackney Downs Hackney Central Wick
Highbury & Islington
Euston
Warren Street
Edgware Road
Hyde Park Corner
Kensington (Olympia)
Goldhawk Road
Mornington Crescent
Great Baker Portland Street Street
Notting Lancaster Bond Gate Street Hill Gate
Holland Park
Wood Lane
Camden Road
Chalk Farm Camden Town
Finchley Road Swiss Cottage St. John’s Wood
Edgware Road Marylebone
Kentish Holloway Road Town Caledonian Road
Kentish Town West Belsize Park
West Hampstead
Kensal Rise Brondesbury Kensal Green South Queen’s Park Kilburn High Road Hampstead
East Acton
Finchley Road & Frognal
Kilburn
Deptford Bridge Elverson Road
Waterloo & City
DLR
Services or access at these stations are subject to variation. Please search ‘TfL stations’ for full details. Kensington (Olympia) open weekends and on some public holidays
Emirates Air Line cable car
Overground
TfL Rail
*Service and network charges may apply. See tfl.gov.uk/terms for details.
Transport for London
Reg. user No. 17/E/3249/P
Version D 7.2017
Accessible London
Emirates Air Line cable car
Get information for deaf and disabled travellers, including step-free journeys on the Tube, bus and river services at www.visitlondon.com/ access and www.openbritain.net.
London’s only cable car runs across the River Thames between Greenwich Peninsula (The O2) and the Royal Docks (ExCeL London). You can board from either the North Greenwich or Royal Victoria sides of the river (return flights are available). You can buy a combined ticket with MBNA Thames Clippers and London Transport Museum. www.tfl.gov.uk/emiratesairline.
Taxis You can hail a black cab (taxi) in the street. Fares increase after 8pm. You cannot hail private-hire or minicabs, which you must book. We strongly advise against you using any vehicle that approaches you in the street, except for licensed black cabs. www.tfl.gov.uk.
Car hire Make sure your driving licence is valid for the UK and see ‘Congestion Charge’ below. 4x4 Vehicle Hire: T: 01245-410535. www.4x4vehiclehire.co.uk. Hertz: T: 0870-844 8844. www.hertz.co.uk. Kendall Cars Ltd: T: 020-8542 0403. www.kendallcars.com. Enterprise Rent-A-Car: T: 0800-800 227. www.enterprise.co.uk.
Congestion Charge UNDERGROUND SIGN © ISTOCK; MAP COURTESY OF TFL
Improvement works may affect your journey, please check before you travel
There is a congestion charge to drive into central London, Mon-Fri 7am-6pm. Payable in advance or on the day of travel (£11.50), or the day after (£14). UK: T: 034-3222 2222. International: T: +44 20-7649 9122. www.cclondon.com.
River services www.tfl.gov.uk/river MBNA Thames Clippers: www.mbnathames clippers.com. MBNA Thames Clippers River Bus serves 22 piers, with departures every 20 minutes. Adult prices start from £4.40. River Roamer ticket (unlimited hop on/hop off all day from 9am). Adult £19; child (5-15) £9.50; family (two adults, up to three children) just £38. Children under five travel free. Discounts available on MBNA Thames Clippers with a TfL Travelcard, Oyster, or via the app or online.
Correct at time of going to print
On foot It’s often quicker to get around London by walking. Look out for blue and yellow Legible London street maps. www.tfl.gov.uk/ legiblelondon.
Santander Cycles There are 11,500 bikes for hire from 750 docking stations throughout central London. £2 to hire the first 30 minutes. There’s no need to book, but you need a debit or credit card to hire a bike. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/santandercycles or call T: 0343-222 6666.
Coaches London’s main coach services use Victoria Coach Station, a central hub which offers travel to destinations around the UK and some parts of Europe, such as France and the Netherlands. SW1W 9TP. T: 0843-222 1234. www.tfl.gov.uk/ coaches Victoria. Map D4.
DELIVERY Mail Boxes Etc. Worldwide parcel delivery, courier and postal services. There are 1,600 stores worldwide and more than 150 stores in the UK and Ireland. Mail Boxes is a trained certified packer. T: 01608-649230. www.mbe.co.uk/london.
24-hour Tube lines The service runs on Fridays & Saturdays on the following lines. More are due to open soon. • Jubilee line: Across the entire line. • Victoria line: Across the entire line. • Northern line: Between Morden and Camden Town and between Camden Town and High Barnet/Edgware. • Piccadilly line: Between Cockfosters and Heathrow Terminal 5. • Central line: Between White City and Leytonstone; between Ealing Broadway and White City; and between Leytonstone and Loughton/Hainault. www.wheretraveler.com 79
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18/04/2018 10:22
WHERE NOW | ED BYRNE
My Perfect Day
COMEDIAN Byrne was born in Dublin. He has been performing for more than 20 years, and had sold-out shows at the Edinburgh Fringe. This month he tours his show, Spoiler Alert, across the country and brings it to the Leicester Square Theatre Which buildings are special to you? St Pancras station is an amazing building. It’s great that it’s been turned into something more than it was. It’s rare that people do that and manage to do it sympathetically. I’ve gigged in it, and I’ve had a drink in the Champagne bar. It’s a multipurpose building: a train station and a hotel. It’s Hogwarts!
Which museums and galleries do you like? The National Portrait Gallery – it’s incredible that you can just wander in and you don’t have to pay. You can walk into a museum like that and see a vast collection of priceless artefacts for nowt.
Where do you like to go shopping? The next time I’m in London, I intend to visit Filson, on Newburgh Street in Soho. It sells upmarket, outdoor clothes. Normally, when I’m in London, I’ll nip into Ellis Brigham Mountain Sports, or Cotswold Outdoor. I like attending auctions, too – I bought a guitar that used to belong to Prince in about 2002. It used to belong to Sheila E and was played on the Purple Rain tour.
Share your favourite green spaces. I’ve jogged around Regent’s Park a few times. That’s a nice place. I visited Buckingham Palace once: I presented a Duke of Edinburgh Award and afterwards we had a wander around. I remember thinking: ‘If I start jogging now, I might get taken out by a sniper’. If you want a reason to be jealous of the royal family, think about how many private acres they have in the centre of London that you could jog around.
Is there a place that holds a special memory for you? I used to like the old Comedy Café on Rivington Street in Shoreditch. It’s gone now, but it used to be a place where comedians would congregate after gigs. Jo Brand used to hang out there, so other people gravitated towards it. I felt a sense of belonging. I was finally a member of a club I’d wanted to be a member of, without even realising.
How do you prefer to travel? I used to get the Tube when I lived in London and I still do, though it does prevent you learning your way around London in the way you ought to. It took me a couple of years to realise that it was quicker to walk from Leicester Square to Covent Garden. The Piccadilly line is sentimental to me: I used to live in Finsbury Park, so Arsenal was my closest station. I loved playing at The Comedy Store, so I’d take the Tube, get out at Piccadilly Circus and feel the buzz.
What would be your perfect entertainment? Comedy! That’s one of the most amazing things about London – there is nowhere else like it on the planet for stand-up comedy. Even in New York or Los Angeles, you won’t find the range you have in London. Soho Theatre picks up a lot of good one-person shows.
Tell us about your show. I’m going to be at the Leicester Square Theatre for five nights with Spoiler Alert – it’s all about how spoilt we are. It’s about the little things in life: from bucket lists to the very notion of semi-skimmed milk, because milk is too creamy and skimmed milk is not creamy enough.
Where would you spend the night? There is quite a sense of occasion when you get put up in a room in The Dorchester.
What makes London stand out?
Where do you go to eat?
I’ve performed in so many cities around the world – from LA, Auckland, Sydney and Melbourne, to New York, San Francisco and Hong Kong – and there’s no comedy scene like London’s. 22-26 May. Leicester Square Theatre, 6 Leicester Place, WC2H 7BX. T: 020-7734 2222. www.leicestersquaretheatre.com
I’m a fan of Bodean’s BBQ Smokehouse on Poland Street. You can eat upstairs in the casual area, or downstairs in the formal room. Smokehouse is another great barbecue restaurant in London.
Clockwise from top left: Bodean’s; Ed Byrne; The Comedy Store; Regent’s Park; a pint of Guinness; Piccadilly Circus Tube station
Where do you like to drink? I like The Toucan in Soho; they do a good Guinness there. I like the Sam Smith pub Yorkshire Grey, too. It’s a traditional pub – warm and toasty.
BODEAN’S © MEDIA WISDOM PHOTOGRAPHY – GILES CHRISTOPHER; ED BYRNE © ROSLYN GAUNT; THE COMEDY STORE, REGENT’S PARK, GUINNESS AND TUBE STATION © ISTOCK
ED BYRNE
82 W H E R E LO N D O N I M AY 2018
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