Where Magazine London May 2019

GUIDE TO LONDON ®

MAY 2019

WWW.WHERETRAVELER.COM

PLUS

Great g Leona astropubs rdo d aV Rose McGo inci wan

Filmmaking

MAGIC Be enchanted by Warner Bros.

Studio Tour London – The Making of Harry Potter

ROYAL INVITATION 200th birthday of Queen Victoria

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E N T E R TA I N M E N T

SHOPPING

DINING

MAPS

PROMOTION

CLOSE ENCOUNTERS From Secret Cinema to escape rooms

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CONTENTS COVER IMAGE © WARNER BROS. STUDIO TOUR LONDON – THE MAKING OF HARRY POTTER. THIS PAGE: ROSE MCGOWAN © CLAIRE ROTHSTEIN; REGENT’S PARK OPEN AIR THEATRE © DAVID JENSEN

MAY

FEATURES

LISTINGS

6 WHERE NOW Our guide to this month’s biggest events, from the Chelsea Flower Show to the FA Cup Final and Eric Clapton at the Royal Albert Hall.

20 SIGHTSEEING Mark the 200th anniversary of the birth of Queen Victoria and visit the new Children’s Garden at Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew.

10 HARRY POTTER The new Gringotts Wizarding Bank, now open at Warner Bros. Studio Tour London, will leave Potter fans feeling the magic.

38 MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Find out why Leonardo da Vinci’s drawings have stood the test of time in a new exhibition, 500 years after his death.

14 CLOSE ENCOUNTERS Launch yourself into the wonderful worlds of James Bond, sci-fi, literature and magic at these unique immersive experiences.

44 ENTERTAINMENT We welcome the start of the Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre season, offering a raft of engaging entertainment in a unique setting.

18 FROM LONDON WITH LOVE Choose film-inspired gifts to take home.

52 SHOPPING Hunting down shops specialising in rare and vintage vinyl, for all musical tastes.

74 MY PERFECT DAY Actor and activist Rose McGowan reveals her favourite London hotspots.

56 DINING We visit London’s best gastropubs that serve British cuisine made with local produce.

64 NIGHTLIFE Enjoy a drink outdoors, or on a passenger boat moored on the bank of the Thames.

68 SPAS & SALONS Knock years off your appearance with these non-invasive, anti-ageing treatments for your face – and not a Botox needle in sight.

70 ESSENTIALS London’s experienced hotel concierges share their useful tips on how to make the most of your time here.

72 MAP A useful map of central London to help you on your travels.

See more of London at www.wheretraveler.com/london

TA L K I N G T O T H E W O R L D ’ S V I S I T O R S We are the world’s largest publisher of maps and magazines for visitors. Today, Where can be found on hotel concierges’ desks in more than 80 destinations around the globe.

In this city, we also produce IN London – a portfolio of luxury magazines in Arabic, Chinese and English – and London Planner, the official monthly guide to the capital from VisitBritain and the Mayor’s promotional company, London & Partners.

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE Where London has direct access to head concierges and their teams across London’s four- and five-star hotels, and is considered to be the ‘concierge’s bible’

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M A G A Z I N E

IN OVER 80 CITIES: INFLUENCING AND INSPIRING VISITORS SINCE 1936

EDITORIAL

MVP I OPERATIONS

CONTENT DIRECTOR Chris Johnson GROUP EDITOR Kohinoor Sahota GROUP DEPUTY EDITOR Sarah Riches ASSOCIATE AND DIGITAL EDITOR Neil Simpson SUB EDITOR Anna Frame CONTRIBUTOR Emma Levine GROUP ART DIRECTOR Tim Benton SENIOR DESIGNER Suzette Scoble DESIGNER Ella-Louisa Romain PICTURE EDITOR Tamsan Barratt

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Vol. No. 45 Issue No.5 ISSN 0951 323X

MEET THE TEAM

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PUBLISHED IN ASSOCIATION WITH

CHRIS JOHNSON I love Four Weddings & a Funeral – Hugh Grant’s hair is at its floppiest in this witty rom-com. Its showstealing backdrop includes the South Bank and Greenwich.

Officially endorsed by The Society of the Golden Keys of GB and the Commonwealth

NEIL SIMPSON My favourite is Bridget Jones’s Diary for its portrayal of London life: it can be tough, but there’s nowhere else you’d rather be. If only I could have her flat

by Borough Market.

SARAH RICHES The British rom-com I Give It a Year is set in Soho, with a whole scene in Yauatcha.

I’m sure I saw it being filmed, so look out for me in the background!

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Contact: Where Magazine Subscriptions. T: 020-7611 7882. Email: subscriptions@morriseurope.com. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited. Where® is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications. In London, Where® Magazine is pleased to be a member of The Society of the Golden Keys and London & Partners/Published by Morris Visitor Publications, a subsidiary of Morris Communications Company, LCC, 727 Broad St, Augusta, GA 20901. Where® Magazine and the where® logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications.

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DANIEL CRAIG © DANJAQ MGM; BACKGROUND © ISTOCK

WELCOME KOHINOOR SAHOTA Group Editor Where London

Twitter: @WhereLondon Facebook: Where London Instagram: wherelondon

London can feel like a movie set – from Notting Hill with Hugh Grant and Julia Roberts, to Trafalgar Square where Tom Cruise landed a helicopter. Harry Potter is one of the biggest film franchises to come out of this country; if you know your Gryffindor from your Hufflepuff, then you will be thrilled to hear that Warner Bros. Studio Tour – The Making of Harry Potter is expanding with a new Gringotts experience (p. 10).

I can’t wait for Secret Cinema presents Casino Royale. I love the film series and am excited to find out how Secret Cinema, experts at immersive experiences, bring to life my favourite Bond movie.

London leads the way when it comes to immersive shows, themed dining and escape rooms (p. 14).

We Brits love the summer; when the weather begins to heat up, we know how to have a good time. One of the things I love to do is watch alfresco shows in Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre (p. 44).

If you’re looking for outdoor bars, find out where you can hop on board a boat decorated by Sir Peter Blake (p. 65).

It’s hard not to be inspired after meeting the actor and activist Rose McGowan. She recently moved to London and has shared her favourite hotspots with us. As she embarks on a book tour for Brave, this month is your chance to hear her talk at the Southbank Centre (p. 74).

Please do get in touch and let me know what you choose to do!

Above: Daniel Craig as James Bond Inset: Meeting Rose McGowan

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®

The sun is shining and the days are longer, so enjoy the beauty of the Chelsea Flower Show and soak up the atmosphere at a canal festival in Little Venice

28-31 SERGEI MAY POLUNIN Few ballet performers can rack up more than 25 million

25-27 MAY

Mariah Carey

The legendary pop diva and one of the world’s best-selling female artists of all time makes her headline debut at the grand Royal Albert Hall, for a three-night residency. It’s part of a world tour to mark her highly acclaimed 15th studio album, Caution. Released a few months ago, it debuted at number five on the Billboard 200 and made the top 40 here in the UK. Expect a stunning stage show and a fantastic setlist that will undoubtedly feature Carey’s well-known and extensive back catalogue. Make the most of this rare treat! www.royalalberthall.com

SERGEI POLUNIN © RANKIN; MARIAH CAREY © CAY FOCUS PHOTO; CHELSEA FLOWER SHOW © RHS; FOOTBALL © GETTY IMAGES; MATTHEW BRODERICK © TAWNI BANNISTER

views on YouTube, but that’s what Sergei Polunin did when he danced to Hozier’s Take Me to Church in 2015. The youngest-ever principal dancer of The Royal Ballet – one of the most prominent positions in dance – has become the bad boy of ballet. Watch the tattooed Ukrainian at the London Palladium in a new show. www.lwtheatres.co.uk

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WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

21-25 CHELSEA MAY FLOWER SHOW

The annual Royal Horticultural Society event began in 1862 and since then has blossomed from a three-day show into a five-day extravaganza across 23 acres. Taking place at Royal Hospital Chelsea, this year’s highlights include a garden by the two-Michelin-starred chef Raymond Blanc with a pergola, botanical cocktails and plant-based dishes on offer. You can also see woodland co-designed by the Duchess of Cambridge. www.rhs.org.uk

18 WEMBLEY MAY STADIUM We Brits love football. It’s no surprise then that it’s called the beautiful game – and it gets especially beautiful during May. Trophies are won, promotions sought and tears shed. The FA Cup is the world’s oldest knockout football trophy and has thrilled sports fans since it was first played in 1871, with most finals taking place at Wembley Stadium.

This year’s final is played in front of around 90,000 fans, plus many millions more watching on television sets around the world. You can catch the women’s final on Saturday 4 May. www.wembleystadium.com

THE STARRY 16 MAY MESSENGER The stars align in this

FROM

moving drama about astronomy, with Hollywood actors Matthew Broderick and Elizabeth McGovern at Wyndham’s Theatre. Broderick (The Producers) makes his West End debut, playing a New York astronomer who feels a closer connection to the stars than his wife. www.starrymessengerplay.com www.wheretraveler.com 7

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WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

CANALWAY CAVALCADE

During the first bank holiday weekend of May, London’s quaint Little Venice neighbourhood splashes into life for the Canalway Cavalcade. A ‘cavalcade’ is a formal procession, so expect to see wave after wave of brightly decorated canal boats floating regally along the stretch of canal between Paddington and Warwick Avenue stations as well as an illuminated evening parade. Enjoy old-fashioned entertainment and street food stalls while you’re there. www.waterways.org.uk

4-6 MAY

Eric Clapton

The maestro musician loves the Royal Albert Hall, so it’s no surprise to find he’s played at the venue numerous times since 1964. ‘A lot of the other places you can play in London don’t have a friendly sound.

Here, I can play loud or quiet,’ he says. Don’t miss him singing Tears in Heaven and Wonderful Tonight as these will be his only UK performances this year. www.royalalberthall.com

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Watch Arthur Miller’s Death of a Salesman, opening tonight at the Young Vic It’s your final chance to see The Anxious Ocean installation at Somerset House Catch award-winning singer-songwriter Marina at Royal Albert Hall Head to the Canalway Cavalcade in Little Venice for live music and street food Visit the Great Hampstead Bark Off dog show and bake sale on Hampstead Heath It’s the last day of Diane Arbus: In the Beginning at the Hayward Gallery Immerse yourself in the Crystal Maze Live Experience by Piccadilly Circus See leather, feather and silver artworks and workshops at London Craft Week Browse and buy prints, fashion and ceramics at the Wimbledon Art Fair Head to the Balance Festival in Shoreditch for wellness, fitness and healthy food Be dazzled by Lucha Libre, the masked Mexican wrestlers, at the Roundhouse If it’s sunny, head to Richmond Park for a picnic and some deer spotting Celebrate London Wine Week at pop-up bars and alfresco venues around the city Explore trendy east London on foot on a Shoreditch Street Art Tour Head to the Underbelly Festival on the South Bank for circus, cabaret and shows Watch Matthew Broderick’s powerful West End debut in The Starry Messenger Enjoy some bubbly at the Prosecco Springs festival in Oval Space Find a lively pub filled with football fans to watch the FA Cup Final at Wembley Kids will love exploring the new Children’s Garden at Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew Head to Borough Market and take your pick from the numerous street-food stalls Admire beautiful blooms at the famous RHS Chelsea Flower Show See Amélie the Musical, adapted from the film, at the New Wimbledon Theatre Buy tickets to see the dazzling new Manga exhibition at The British Museum Dress up and check out the MCM Comic Con at ExCeL London this weekend It’s the last few days of Only Human – Martin Parr at the National Portrait Gallery Take the kids to Monski Mouse’s Baby Disco Dance Hall at Underbelly Festival Eat at food market KERB, then head to the Jam on Rye music festival in Peckham Take a free evening tour of The London Library, steeped in 175 years of history The Royal Philharmonic Orchestra plays ABBA hits at the Royal Albert Hall Find an outdoor screen to watch South Africa v England in the Cricket World Cup See the retrospective Lee Krasner: Living in Colour at the Barbican Centre

Search for more ideas at wheretraveler.com

CANALWAY CAVALCADE © THE INLAND WATERWAYS ASSOCIATION; ERIC CLAPTON COURTESY OF ROYAL ALBERT HALL

4-6 MAY

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★★★★★

‘IT IS OUT OF THIS WORLD, IT’S MAGIC, AND IT’S A HIT’ THE TIMES

CHECK DAILY FOR LATE-RELEASE TICKETS

PALACE THEATRE, LONDON www.HarryPotterThePlay.com TM & © HPTP. Harry Potter

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Gringotts Harry Potter fans will be in their element now Gringotts Wizarding Bank has opened at Warner Bros. Studio Tour London, says Neil Simpson

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HARRY POTTER | WHERE NOW

Green screen experience

The Great Hall

IMAGES COURTESY OF WARNER BROS. STUDIO TOUR

”

r and Mrs Dursley, of number four Privet Drive, were proud to say that they were perfectly normal, thank you very much.

They were the last people you’d expect to be involved in anything strange or mysterious, because they just didn’t hold with such nonsense.” With these two sentences, the Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone book began and a cultural phenomenon was born. No one could have predicted it – and the Dursleys didn’t know just how strange things would get. Harry Potter’s aunt and uncle would not approve of Warner Bros. Studio Tour London, as it’s overflowing with Potter paraphernalia.

For Potter fans, however, there are few places that generate as much excitement, because this is where much of the film series was shot. The films were being made while J.K. Rowling was still writing the books, so props and sets were kept at Leavesden in case they were needed later. When filming wrapped in 2010, efforts began to preserve this haul: Warner Bros. Studio Tour London – The Making of Harry Potter opened in 2012.

MORE MAGIC After seven magical years, the tour has just been expanded to include Gringotts Wizarding Bank. Walk through the banking hall, with its marble Diagon Alley pillars and crystal chandeliers, before exploring the treasure-filled Lestrange vault. See costumes, goblin prosthetics and piles of galleons, sickles and knuts. It’s the biggest expansion to date and incorporates a new entrance hall as well as a café, which serves food inspired by the world of Harry Potter.

Whether or not you’re a Harry Potter obsessive, the elaborate Studio Tour is hugely enjoyable. It begins with a video that tells the story of the books and the films, which is played on a large screen that opens to reveal the Great Hall set. Hogwarts Castle is here too which, at its pinnacle, is four times taller than an adult. The detailed model measures approximately 15m (50ft)

across – the length of one-and-a-half London buses.

The Studio Tour is open from early until late every day and it’s essential to book tickets. It’s incredibly popular, but it is possible to purchase last-minute tickets: the website’s ticket availability is 100 per cent live, which means that you can find last-minute cancellations, even if you’re checking in the morning for later that same day. You can jump on a train from Euston to Watford Junction and catch a shuttle bus to the Studio Tour, or book a bus from central London direct with operators such as Golden Tours. www.wbstudiotour.co.uk w w w.wh e ret r ave l e r. com 11

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HARRY POTTER AND THE CURSED CHILD

In 2017, which new West End play was awarded the most gongs ever in the history of the Olivier Awards? There are no prizes for guessing this one: the eighth story in the Harry Potter series was written by J.K. Rowling, Jack Thorne and John Tiffany and plays at the huge Palace Theatre on Shaftesbury Avenue. The play is split into two parts, which you can either see during a full day, or across two consecutive evenings. The time flies by because this show, set 19 years after the end of The Deathly Hallows, is truly extraordinary. There’s also the chance to get last-minute returns, while 40 tickets for every performance are released one week in advance on a Friday, for £40 per person. www.harrypottertheplay.com

Neil at King’s Cross Station

2

HOUSE OF MINALIMA

Close to the Palace Theatre is the House of MinaLima. This gallery and shop at 26 Greek Street showcases the work of Miraphora Mina and Eduardo Lima. This design duo has spent years creating art for both the Harry Potter and Fantastic Beasts film series. Their work fills four floors, making it a dream come true for Potter souvenir hunters. It’s free to enter and open every day from noon. Given its close proximity to Harry Potter and the Cursed Child, it can get busy, so the House recommends avoiding early evenings on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays. www.store.minalima.com

Palace Theatre

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PLATFORM 9¾

You’ll find the mythical Hogwarts Express platform entrance near one of King’s Cross Station’s northernmost exits, where you’ll join an excitable queue of wizarding fanatics. There’s a Potter shop and staff on hand who will take a professional photo of you with the trolley, as well as provide

Hogwarts props for the picture. If you’re hoping to beat the queue, the best time to arrive is between 8am and 10am on a weekday, or you could visit the site to book the queue-skipping VIP package.

Fun fact: Warwick Davis, who played both Professor Flitwick and the Gringotts goblin Griphook in the films, cut the ribbon during the shop’s opening ceremony. www.harrypotterplatform934.com

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THE MILLENNIUM BRIDGE

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LEADENHALL MARKET

In the film version of the penultimate book, Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince, Voldemort unleashes Death Eaters in full destruction mode on to the streets of London. The Millennium Bridge is rocked from side to side by the swirling baddies, creating an image that’s reminiscent of a real-life episode that temporarily closed the bridge shortly after it opened in 2000. In the movie, however, the bridge eventually collapses into the Thames.

Connecting Tate Modern art gallery with the north bank, the bridge provides a beautiful view of St Paul’s Cathedral as you cross – look out for the tiny, colourful artworks that have been painted on to discarded blobs of chewing gum stuck to the bridge’s surface. www.fosterandpartners.com

Once the heart of Roman London, this ornate and majestic structure was founded in the 1300s as a meat market. Fast-forward to 2019 and you’ll find boutiques, restaurants, wine bars and a pub – and perhaps a faint whiff of magic. It was a film location for the first Potter film from 2000-2001, becoming the final piece of Muggle territory before Harry stepped into Diagon Alley and discovered a whole new world. Head to Glass House Opticians on Bull’s Head Passage: its entrance was used as the door of the Leaky Cauldron pub, the gateway to Diagon Alley. www.leadenhallmarket.co.uk

HOGWARTS © WARNER BROS. STUDIO TOUR LONDON; PLATFORM 9¾ COURTESY OF NEIL SIMPSON; POSTER COURTESY OF HOUSE OF MINALIMA; OTHER IMAGES © ISTOCK

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Leadenhall Market Hogwarts

House of MinaLima

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NEW TICKETS RELEASED

FOR FULL TICKET INFO VISIT HAMILTONMUSICAL.COM VICTORIA PALACE THEATRE A DELFONT MACKINTOSH THEATRE

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Casino Royale

CLOSE

You go on holiday for a new experience. Now you can go one step further and see worlds of spies and aliens. Sarah Riches looks at the city’s exciting immersive events

ENCOUNTERS

BEST FOR JAMES BOND JUNKIES Secret Cinema – which is known for hosting elaborate productions in unusual locations – has turned its attention to the 2006 Bond film Casino Royale, starring Daniel Craig.

Its next project is based on the film and set in a secret London location (from 29 May).

Brush up on your poker skills and prepare for your mission briefing, as you will be recruited by Q or M as part of Operation Wild Card. You’ll receive an alias, training suggestions and dress code from MI6 – which means cocktail dresses and tuxedos with an undone bow tie (obviously). www.secretcinema.org

BEST FOR THOSE WHO LOVE A WHODUNNIT Hop aboard The Murdér Express at Pedley Street Station, under railway arches near Brick Lane (from 3 May) for an experience set in 1937 during the Great Depression.

The Von Valentine family’s Jewel of the Empire – the world’s largest cut diamond – is on display aboard The Murdér Express as it travels from London to the family estate in the southern French town of Murdér.

On board, you’ll dine on a menu created

by Jane Devonshire as you’re whisked to France – assuming all goes well, of course… www.funicularproductions.com

BEST FOR SCIFI FANS Travel back in time to Victorian England at an immersive event set in The Old London Metal Exchange (from 31 May). Experience the Martian invasion from HG Wells’ 1898 science-fiction novel The War of the Worlds, which was reinvented as a musical by Jeff Wayne. In groups of 12, you’ll be guided by live and virtual actors as you walk, crawl and slide through scenes of Victorians sipping tea at home while Martians roam outside. Thanks to virtual-reality headsets and holograms, the experience will feel real, especially when the ground shakes as the first cylinder lands. www.dotdot.london

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EXPERIENCES | WHERE NOW

The War of the Worlds immersive experience The Crystal Maze LIVE Experience

Game of Thrones experience

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BEST FOR DETECTIVE BUFFS

The Game is Now Live Experience

The game is on – and it’s on now.

The fictional detective Sherlock Holmes from Sir Arthur Conan Doyle’s 1880s novels has inspired a museum, Guy Ritchie’s 2009 film and the TV series starring Benedict Cumberbatch – and now, an escape room.

The Game is Now Live Experience, in West12 Shopping Centre, is an immersive experience by Time Run and the BBC series producers Steven Moffat and Mark

BEST FOR PEOPLE WHO LOVE TO DRESS UP If you’ve been hooked on Game of Thrones and are missing it following its epic finale last month, now you can get another taste of it at a spoof dining experience. Dinner is Coming (to 2 Jun) at The Vaults is set in tunnels beneath Waterloo Station. Like the series and A Song of Ice and Fire novel on which it is based, the experimental venue will be transformed into several kingdoms in a fictional medieval world. Dress up as a warrior, lord, lady or peasant and prepare for dark twists, allegiance challenges, rival dynasties and royal celebrations, with themed drinks and food prepared by chefs Chavdar Todorov and Steven Estevez. The experience features nudity and violence, so it’s only open to over-18s. www.dinneriscoming.com

BEST FOR FANS OF COMEDY If you love British humour, you can take part in interactive dining experiences based on popular British TV shows. Faulty Towers – The Dining Experience is inspired by the BBC farce Fawlty Towers. The same team is behind Only Fools – The Cushty Dining Experience – both are at the Radisson Blu Edwardian Grafton. www.torquaysuitetheatre.com; www.interactivetheatre.com.au

Gatiss. I went to try it out – and dragged the Where London team along with me.

Disguised as an opticians, the entrance has displays of glasses and posters with small print that says: ‘If you can read this then you obviously don’t need glasses.’

The 100-minute game began with actors recruiting our team of five as Sherlock operatives. As part of our induction, we worked together to solve puzzles in three

BEST FOR ADVENTUROUS TYPES A TV game show that was a hit in the 1990s has been transformed into The Crystal Maze LIVE Experience.. Just like the series, the experience has Medieval, Aztec, Industrial and Futuristic zones. It doesn’t matter if you haven’t seen the show as maze masters guide you around, just like the TV presenter Richard O’Brien did.

Teams take part in 32 physical and mental challenges against the clock, including moving cannonballs across a medieval castle and cracking a safe.

Work quickly – or get locked in.

The more you finish, the more crystals your team wins – and the more time you gain for your final challenge.

Ready? Then, in the words of O’Brien: ‘Will you start the fans, please!’ www.the-crystal-maze.com

REVIEW rooms, including one with a dead body with an anchor tattoo. Using video and audio clues, we unlocked a cage and found hidden keys and codes in UV light. Alas, we’re clearly not cut out for detective work as we ran out of time. We debriefed – and commiserated – over drinks in The Mind Palace, its bar inspired by Doyle. Can you do better? Prove it. www.thegameisnow.com

PREVIOUS PAGES: CASINO ROYALE © 2006 DANJAQ, LLC AND UNITED ARTISTS CORPORATION/ALL RIGHTS RESERVED; THE WAR OF THE WORLDS COURTESY OF DOT TO DOT LONDON; THE CRYSTAL MAZE COURTESY OF THE CRYSTAL MAZE LIVE EXPERIENCE; GAME OF THRONES © RAH PETHERBRIDGE. THIS PAGE: SHERLOCK HOLMES IMAGES COURTESY OF AL OVERDRIVE; GINGERLINE © ROB GREIG

WHERE NOW | EXPERIENCES

Gingerline’s The Grand Expedition

BEST FOR LITERATURE LOVERS The supper club Gingerline hosts ‘experiments’ in secret locations. Past productions have been set in spacecrafts and submarines and have featured shadow puppets. At its new adventure, The Grand Expedition,, you’ll dine on a five-course menu sat in a hot-air balloon basket, as storytellers perform. www.thegrandexpedition.co.uk

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R E K N PLO

You’d be a

to miss it!

THE ORIGINAL SHOW ENTERTAINING AUDIENCES FOR OVER 21 YEARS!

’FANTASTIC!’ ‘OUTRAGEOUSLY

‘IT’S A HOOT!

WHATSONSTAGE, UK

FUNNY’ BROADWAY BABY

LIKE BEING INSIDE THE TELLY’ TimeOut London

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WHERE NOW | PRODUCTS

The Marauder’s Map from Harry Potter The Noble Collection, £30, 26-28 Neal St, WC2H 9QQ

Paddington Bear Kid’s Backpack Harrods, £25, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL

Gifts for

FILM FANS

If you’re feeling shaken and stirred, take your pick from these British film-inspired souvenirs ST Dupont – James Bond 007 Connected Lighter Harrods, £1,800, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL

The Adventures of Sherlock Holmes and The Memoirs of Sherlock Holmes Peter Harrington, £22,500, 43 Dover St, W1S 4FF

Casino Royale by Ian Fleming Peter Harrington, £50,000, 43 Dover St, W1S 4FF

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF THE RETAILERS

Harry Potter Hogwarts Castle John Lewis, £349, 300 Oxford St, W1C 1DX

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08/04/2019 10:23 3/25/19 1:41 PM

Kensington Palace

‘Two hundred years after her birth, Queen Victoria is honoured across the capital’

Q

ueen Victoria was born on 24 May 1819 in Kensington Palace. Now I’m not known for my maths skills, but even I can add 200 years to that date – which is why Kensington Palace’s new exhibition is called Victoria 2019 (from 24 May; p. 26).

Did you know that Queen Victoria had 42 grandchildren? While most people focus on the late queen’s stern demeanour, or her prolonged mourning period following the death of Prince Albert, Victoria 2019 explores how she engineered the marriages of her nine children. Her strategic pruning of the family tree ensured that Victoria’s legacy

was scattered among Europe’s highest powers – no wonder she’s often called ‘the Grandmother of Europe’.

You can see Victoria’s black satin gowns alongside more unusual pieces, such as a pair of fashionable silver boots that she wore – David Bowie would have approved.

Elsewhere in London, there are plenty of ways to honour Victoria. One of the most impressive monuments to her is outside the gates of Buckingham Palace, making it the star of every TV broadcast there (p. 22).

Not many people have had an entire district of London named after them, but

of course Queen Victoria has. The area is best known as a transport hub, but its jewel in the crown is Westminster Cathedral.

Its 64m-high (210ft) Tower Viewing Gallery offers a regal view of Victoria and beyond (www.westminstercathedral.org.uk).

You could also celebrate the late queen’s London legacy with a jaunt on the Victoria line. Hop on the Tube and journey all the way north to visit London’s newest urban wetland nature reserve, Walthamstow Wetlands (www.walthamstowwetlands.com).

We’re sure Queen Victoria would be amused.

NEIL SIMPSON Sightseeing Editor

KENSINGTON PALACE © HISTORIC ROYAL PALACES

SIGHTSEEING

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SIGHTSEEING

Apsley House Visit the home of the Duke of Wellington to see its grand interiors and fine art. Wed-Sun 11am-5pm.

Adult £10.50; child £6.30. www.english-heritage. org.uk. 149 Piccadilly, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7NT. T: 020-7499 5676. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

ArcelorMittal Orbit This 115m-tall observation tower, designed by Turner Prize-winning artist Sir Anish Kapoor, offers 20-mile views over the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park and beyond. Adventurous types can abseil to the ground or whizz down its 178m tunnel slide, which is the world’s longest.

Mon-Fri 11am-4pm; Sat-Sun 10am-6pm. General entry: adult £12.50; child £7.50. Entry and slide: adult £17.50; child £12.50. www.arcelormittalorbit.com.

Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2SS. T: 0333800 8099. Off map. Station: Stratford.

Banqueting House This 17th-century building was designed by Inigo Jones for James I, with an exquisite painted ceiling by the celebrated Baroque artist Peter Paul Rubens. It is the only remaining part of the Palace of Whitehall, which was destroyed by fire. Daily 10am-5pm, but call before visiting. Adult £7; child free. www.hrp.org.uk. Whitehall, SW1A 2ER. T: 020-3166 6000. E8. Station: Westminster.

Battersea Park Children’s Zoo

Buckingham Palace

Zoo with keeper experiences, a play area and a petting farm. Attend feeding sessions throughout the day to watch animals such as otters, meerkats and monkeys as they eat (monkeyfeeding sessions during weekends and school holidays only). Daily 10am-5.30pm or dusk. Adult £9.95; child £7.95. www.batterseaparkzoo.co.uk.

Battersea Park, Chelsea Bridge Gate, SW11 4NJ. T: 020-7924 5826. Off map. Station: Battersea Park.

The London residence and principal workplace of the British monarch has 775 rooms (p. 20).

Normally closed to the public, it’s possible to tour the state rooms and garden during the summer.

The Changing the Guard ceremony, during which one regiment takes over from another to protect the Queen and the palace, takes place in the forecourt on most mornings from 10.45am; check online for the full schedule. www.rct.uk/ buckinghampalace. The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria/Green Park.

The British Library The world’s largest library, with a great permanent collection as well as many temporary exhibitions.

To 12 May: Friendship before Facebook: Social Networks in a Pre-Digital Age. A collection of ‘friendship albums’, created between 1600 and 1900.

To 7 Jul: The New Londoners. Chris Steele-Perkins presents his series of photographs, which depicts one family from each country in the world and the home they’ve made in London. To 14 Jul: Imaginary Cities. This display by digital artist Michael Takeo Magruder ponders the changing nature of collecting and what the future holds for libraries. To 27 Aug: Writing: Making Your Mark. The history of writing, from Egyptian hieroglyphs to digital breakthroughs and everything in-between. Mon-Thur 9.30am-8pm; Fri 9.30am-6pm; Sat 9.30am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm.

Admission free; charges for tours, some exhibitions and events. www.bl.uk. 96 Euston Rd, NW1 2DB. T: 0330-333 1144. C7. Station: King’s Cross.

Changing the Guard Watch the Changing of the Queen’s Guard on Buckingham Palace’s forecourt (except in very wet weather). During the ceremony, one regiment takes over from another. Please check for dates and times (usually 10.45am). Free to attend. www.householddivision.org.uk. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7300.

F6/F7. Station: Victoria/Green Park.

The Charterhouse Dating back to 1348, this site was originally a burial ground during the Black Death, before becoming an almshouse in 1611. There’s a museum about its past. Tue-Sun 11am-5.30pm; approximately three tours per day. Museum and chapel admission free; standard tour from £10; Brothers’ tour from £15. www.thecharterhouse.org. Charterhouse Square, EC1M 6AN. T: 020-3818 8873. C9. Station: Barbican.

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (B5 etc.) are coordinates for the map on p. 72-73

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CHILDREN’S GARDEN © RBG KEW

SIGHTSEEING

11/04/2019 11:11

SIGHTSEEING

‘‘

Grown for kids We’re often asked where to take hyperactive children for an energetic and (ideally) tiring day out in London. During warmer months especially, we heartily recommend Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew. The site is huge and a special effort is made to appeal to young visitors. This is even more evident with the opening of the new Children’s Garden (from 18 May; p. 28).

The size of 40 tennis courts, it’s designed for kids aged from two to 12 years and includes a trail that highlights the elements of nature: water, sun, air and the earth itself.

More than 100 mature trees populate the area, including a 200-year-old oak tree that children can explore via an elevated canopy walk.

‘‘

‘FASCINATING’

‘UNFORGETTABLE’

‘LIFE-CHANGING!’

‘AMAZING!’

‘EYE-OPENING!’

‘MIND-BLOWING’

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SIGHTSEEING Chelsea Physic Garden At London’s oldest botanic garden, founded in 1673, you can admire 5,000 species of plants, including medicinal and tropical varieties. Free tours. SunFri 11am-6pm. Adult £10; child £6.50. www.chelsea physicgarden.co.uk. 66 Royal Hospital Rd, SW3 4HS. T: 020-7352 5646. Off map. Station: Sloane Square.

Chiswick House & Gardens See Old Masters on display in this manor, which has neo-Palladian interiors designed by William Kent.

House Mon & Wed 11am-3pm, Sat-Sun 11am-4pm; gardens daily 7am-dusk. House adult £7.80; child free. www.chgt.org.uk. Burlington Lane, W4 2RP. T: 020-3141 3350. Off map. Station: Chiswick Park.

Cutty Sark Climb on board the world’s last surviving tea clipper, located in Greenwich. Meet the colourful characters from the Cutty Sark’s past and discover stories of life on board the fastest ship of her day. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £13.50; child £7. Joint tickets with the Royal Observatory available. Book online to save. www.rmg.co.uk.

King William Walk, SE10 9HT. T: 020-8312 6608.

Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.

Dennis Severs’ House

Every morning at ZSL London Zoo, a keeper has to level out all the holes that the aardvarks dig during the night

Fulham Palace This 15th-century building was the summer retreat of the Bishops of London. Its museum, historic rooms and shop are currently closed for renovation; botanical gardens open daily.

25 May: Full Reopening. The site’s £3.8m refurbishment project reaches its completion (p. 36).

26 May: Tudor Fun Day. Family-friendly event.

Admission free, charges for special events. www.fulhampalace.org. Bishop’s Ave, SW6 6EA. T: 020-7736 3233. Off map. Station: Putney Bridge.

Dr Johnson’s House

Go Ape! London

Dr Samuel Johnson compiled his English dictionary, first published in 1755, in this 18th-century period home. Check for staged performances, talks and tours. The current exhibition, Curious Travellers: Dr Johnson and Thomas Pennant on Tour, explores how Johnson and his contemporary Pennant toured Scotland and Wales to become pioneers of the travel-writing genre. Mon-Sat 11am-5.30pm; closed bank hols. Adult £7; child £3.50; cash only. www.dr johnsonshouse.org. 17 Gough Square, EC4A 3DE. T: 020-7353 3745. D9. Station: Chancery Lane.

There are several of these treetop obstacle courses located in the London area: Go Ape! Battersea Park is the most central, followed by Alexandra Palace then Cockfosters in the north, and Black Park near Heathrow in the west. Negotiate ladders, bridges and zip lines while attached to a harness. Check online for times and prices. www.go ape.co.uk. Various locations. T: 01603-895 500.

Eltham Palace & Gardens Experience the decade of decadence as you are transported back to the 1930s in this part showpiece of Art Deco design, part medieval royal palace. 11-12 May: Art Deco Fair. Vintage stalls celebrating the era that brought Eltham Palace’s design to life; adult £15.40; child £9.20. Sun-Fri 10am-6pm. Adult £15; child £9. www.englishheritage.org.uk/eltham. Court Yard, SE9 5QE. T: 020-8294 2548. Off map. Station: Eltham.

Ham House and Gardens One of Europe’s greatest 17th-century houses, with gardens that are said to be haunted. Free, 30-min architecture and garden history tours most days. 6 May: May Day. The house and Orangery café are open to ticketholders at 6am, in honour of the 17th-century tradition of dew gathering – grab a bottle and join in. Later in the day, the May Day celebrations continue. House daily noon-4pm; garden, shop and café daily 10am-5pm. Adult £12.50; child £6.25. www.nationaltrust.org.uk.

Ham St, Surrey, TW10 7RS. T: 020-8940 1950.

Off map. Station: Richmond.

AARDVARK © ISTOCK

Since 1979, visitors have been able to explore the home of the late artist Dennis Severs. Ten rooms illustrate the life of a family of Huguenot silk weavers from the 17th to 19th centuries. Silent Night tour Mon, Wed & Fri 5pm-9pm. Daytime tour Mon noon2pm; Sun noon-4pm. Tickets £5-£15. www.dennis severshouse.co.uk. 18 Folgate St, E1 6BX. T: 0207247 4013. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

DID YOU KNOW?

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SIGHTSEEING Handel & Hendrix in London

HMS Belfast

The former homes of Anglo-German composer George Frideric Handel and American guitarist Jimi Hendrix. See where Handel lived and composed for 36 years, plus Hendrix’s bedroom restored to how it was from 1968 to 1969. 17 May: Friday Late – The May Fayre. Inspired by the area’s infamous 18th-century tradition, this evening event celebrates the changing seasons with live Baroque music and theatre; from £15. Mon-Sat 11am-6pm; live, free Baroque music performances every Wed & Sat, 11.30am-1.30pm; Sat 2pm-4pm. Please check online for full event details, times and prices. Adult £10; child £5. www.handelhendrix.org. 25 Brook St, W1K 4HB. T: 020-7495 1685. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Permanently moored on the River Thames, this ship is Europe’s only surviving World War II cruiser. In service until 1965, it’s now a reminder of Britain’s naval heritage. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £16.20; child £8.10. www.iwm. org.uk. The Queen’s Walk, off Tooley St, SE1 2JH. T: 020-7940 6300. E11. Station: London Bridge.

Houses of Parliament See the stunning art and architecture inside this working parliament building, which is also a royal palace. Tours Sat. Multimedia self-guided tour adult £19.50, young adult (16-18) £17, child £8 (one child free per paying adult); guided tour adult

£26.50, young adult £22, child £11.50; childfriendly family guided tour adult £19.50, child free. www.parliament.uk/visit. Palace of Westminster, Parliament Square, SW1A 0AA. T: 020-7219 4114.

F8. Station: Westminster.

The Jewel Tower Built around 1365 to house Edward III’s treasures, this is one of only two buildings left from the medieval Palace of Westminster after an 1834 fire. Don’t miss the ornate ceiling carvings. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £5.70; child £3.40. www.englishheritage.org.uk. Abingdon St, SW1P 3JX. T: 0207222 2219. F8. Station: Westminster.

Keats House This 19th-century home belonged to the Romantic poet John Keats. See his paintings, books, letters and household items, plus the engagement ring he gave to his sweetheart, Fanny Brawne. 16 May: Late-Night Keats: Georgian Legacies. The house stays open into the evening for pre-Regency-era poetry readings, live music, craft activities and more; £15.

Wed-Sun & bank hols 11am-5pm; 30-min guided tours at 1.30pm & 3pm (subject to availability).

Adult £6.50; child free. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk.

Keats Grove, NW3 2RR. T: 020-7332 3868. Off map.

Station: Hampstead.

Kensington Palace This royal residence in Kensington Gardens was Princess Diana’s last home and is currently where the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge reside.

From 24 May: Victoria 2019. In honour of what would have been her 200th birthday, this new exhibition reveals the more personal side to Queen Victoria’s life at Kensington Palace and explores how she became ‘the Grandmother of Europe’ (p. 20). Daily 10am6pm; closed 1 & 20-21 May. Adult £19.50; child £9.70. www.hrp.org.uk. Kensington Gardens, W8 4PX. T: 0844482 7777. Off map.

Station: High Street Kensington.

Kenwood

XXXXXXXXX

See London’s skyline from The Top of The Shard (p. 30)

IMAGE © THE TOP OF THE SHARD

On the edge of Hampstead Heath, Kenwood house with its landscaped gardens is a hidden gem. Admire Robert Adams’ interiors and an impressive art collection made up of Vermeers, Rembrandts and Gainsboroughs.

Daily 10am-5pm.

Free admission. www.english-heritage. org.uk/kenwood.

Hampstead Lane, NW3 7JR. T: 020-8348 1286.

Off map. Station: Hampstead.

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12/04/2019 16:53

Sightseeing Tours Over 100 Experiences to choose from

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SIGHTSEEING Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew

KidZania London

Better known as Kew Gardens, this botanical research centre and World Heritage Site contains plants from across the globe, with a Chinese pagoda, a treetop walkway and the world’s biggest Victorian glasshouse, which was recently restored.

From 18 May: Children’s Garden. New attraction for young visitors (p. 23). To 27 Oct: Chihuly: Reflections on Nature. Glass artist Dale Chihuly displays 32 of his striking pieces around the grounds. Mon-Thur 10am-7pm; Fri-Sun 10am-8pm.

Adult £18; child £6; charges for special exhibitions. www.kew.org. Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 3AB. T: 020-8332 5655.

Off map. Station: Kew Gardens.

Parents take a back seat here as children take charge. Three times the size of Trafalgar Square, KidZania has everything a child could want including TV and animation studios, a chocolate factory and aviation academy – there’s even a tattoo parlour. The early-years area means that younger siblings will have fun, too. Daily from 10am; closing times vary so please check; closed for private hire 1-3, 7-8, 13-17 & 20-21 May. Advance: adult from £15; child from £18. On the day: adult from £18; child from £38. www.kidzania. co.uk. Westfield London Shopping Centre, Ariel Way, W12 7GA. T: 0330-131 3333. Map inset.

Station: Shepherd’s Bush.

SEE ALL OF LONDON AT ONCE

The London Bridge Experience & London Tombs An exciting history lesson on the past of the 1,700-year-old London Bridge site. Special effects and actors bring this scary attraction to life. Tickets also include admission to the London Tombs, located under the bridge, which are in a former plague pit. Check for times and prices. www.the londonbridgeexperience.com. 2-4 Tooley St, SE1 2SY. T: 020-7403 6333. E10. Station: London Bridge.

The London Dungeon This thrilling attraction will whisk you back to the capital’s most perilous past. See, hear, feel and smell the ‘bad old days’ as they come to life before you thanks to costumed characters.

Not for small children or the faint-hearted. Joint tickets available with SEA LIFE London Aquarium, Coca-Cola London Eye, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! Please check for times and prices. www.thedungeons.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 020-7654 0809.

F8. Station: Waterloo/Embankment.

Coca-Cola London Eye This London icon is one of the world’s largest observation wheels – don’t forget to share your London Eye memories using #eyelovelondon.

Joint tickets available with SEA LIFE London Aquarium, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! Please check for times and prices. www.londoneye.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000.

F8. Station: Waterloo/Westminster.

London Mithraeum On the site of Bloomberg’s European headquarters, this cultural hub showcases an ancient Roman temple which was built here nearly 2,000 years ago, to honour the god Mithras.

The remains are brought to life through an immersive experience.

Discover more than 600 objects left by the very first Londoners, as well as modern art on the ground floor. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun noon-5pm; first Thur of the month 10am-8pm. Admission free. www.londonmithraeum.com.

12 Walbrook, EC4N 8AA. T: 0207330 7500. D10. Station: Bank.

ZSL London Zoo

BOOK IN ADVANCE AND SAVE Buy your ticket from your hotel concierge

Immerse yourself in the animal kingdom at the world’s oldest scientific zoo, which has more than 750 species. Highlights include a penguin beach, Asiatic lions in the Land of the Lions enclosure and endangered Sumatran tigers. Daily events include Spiders Live, In with the Lemurs and Swinging Gibbons.

Daily 10am-6pm; check for prices. www.zsl.org.

Regent’s Park, NW1 4RY. T: 020-7722 3333. B6.

Station: Camden Town.

theviewfromtheshard.com

Open daily from 10 am till late

London Bridge

Don’t miss the Changing the Guard ceremony (p. 22)

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SIGHTSEEING Madame Tussauds

The Royal Mews

The celebrated home of life-sized This beautiful part of Buckingham wax figures depicting famous people from Palace houses the Queen’s vehicles and the worlds of entertainment, politics, horses. Learn about the mews’ history sport and history, from the Queen to with the free multimedia guide, which Adele. Don’t miss the permanent Star includes games, a video of the Wars exhibition with 11 sets from the Diamond Jubilee State Coach’s first films, the chance to stand with the journey and interactive photography All of Queen Victoria and royal family on Buckingham Palace’s of the Gold State Coach’s interior.

Prince Albert’s children balcony and ‘Tom Hearty’, a model Children will enjoy learning how to learned to ride horses of actor Tom Hardy with its own harness a horse. Daily 10am-5pm. in The Royal Mews heartbeat. Other recent additions Adult £12; child £6.80; under-fives include the Duchess of Sussex, the free. www.rct.uk/royalmews. Buckingham Chinese actress Yang Mi and singer Dua Lipa.

Palace Rd, SW1W 1QH. T: 0303-123 7302. F6.

Joint tickets available with SEA LIFE London Station: Victoria/St James’s Park.

Aquarium, London Dungeon, Coca-Cola London Eye and Shrek’s Adventure! Please check for times.

Adult £35; child £30. www.madametussauds.com/ london. Marylebone Rd, NW1 5LR. T: 0871-222 0177.

C6. Station: Baker Street.

DID YOU KNOW?

The Royal Observatory Stand astride the historic Prime Meridian, where east meets west, to take your place at the centre of the world. Uncover the history of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) and see clocks and timepieces that have completely changed how we live. Then take a journey into space with the astronomers and unravel the mysteries of the cosmos in the planetarium: there are shows specifically for children. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £15; child £6.50. Joint tickets with Cutty Sark available. Book online to save. Audio guide tour available. www.rmg.co.uk. Blackheath Ave, SE10 8XJ. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich/Maze Hill/Cutty Sark.

The Monument This beautiful stone column standing in the heart of the City was built in 1677 to commemorate the 1666 Great Fire of London. Climb the 311 steps to its observation gallery. Daily 9.30am-5.30pm.

Adult £5; child £2.50. Joint tickets with Tower Bridge available. www.themonument.org.uk.

Monument St, EC3R 6BD. T: 020-7626 2717.

E10. Station: Monument.

The O2 Huge venue for entertainment and exhibitions, including ICON, an all-new designer-brand shopping outlet, as well as the latest trampoline park from Oxygen Freejumping. www.theo2.co.uk.

Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2000.

Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

Old Royal Naval College Sir Christopher Wren’s riverside masterpiece, which is part of the Maritime Greenwich World Heritage Site, is home to a neoclassical chapel and the Painted Hall, which recently reopened following a major conservation project. Its enhanced undercroft space now includes a café, shop and gallery, while you can also see the foundations of Henry VIII’s birthplace, Greenwich Palace. Tour options include guided talks, multimedia handsets and a kids’ trail. Daily 10am-5pm. General admission free; Painted Hall adult £12; child free. www.ornc.org. King William Walk, SE10 9NN. T: 020-8269 4799. Off map.

Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.

SOLDIER © VISIT LONDON/PAWEL LIBERA

Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park Formerly the site of the London 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games, this huge park includes an aquatics centre and the ArcelorMittal Orbit observation tower. You can cycle around the mountain bike course, experience the BMX course or try a lap of the Velodrome at the Lee Valley VeloPark (suitable for older children as inductions are required). Please check website for sporting events. Park open 24 hours daily. Admission free. www.queenelizabetholympicpark.co.uk. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2ST. T: 0800-072 2110.

Off map. Station: Stratford.

The Royal Institution of Great Britain Grade I-listed Georgian building housing a museum about the institution’s 15 Nobel Prize-winning scientists. Visit its free Faraday Museum and you can see scientists at work, too.

Check the website for full programme of talks.

Mon-Fri 9am-5pm. Admission free; charges for talks. www.rigb.org. 21 Albemarle St, W1S 4BS. T: 020-7409 2992. E6. Station: Green Park. www.wheretraveler.com 29

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SIGHTSEEING SEA LIFE London

The Top of The Shard

Shrek’s Adventure!

One of Europe’s largest aquariums with 500 species of global marine life and walk-through tank tunnels, including an impressive glass walkway above a school of sharks. You can snorkel with sharks (£130 including admission), while the Rainforest Adventure attraction is your chance to see snapping turtles and the world’s largest species of spider. In the Polar Adventure space, you can face polar winds in a hurricane machine. Check for times and prices.

Joint tickets available with Coca-Cola London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! www.sealife.co.uk/london. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0333-321 2001.

F8. Station: Westminster/Waterloo.

Ascend the tallest building in Western Europe in a high-speed lift. At 309m up, on a clear day you can see as far as Windsor – and if you can’t see three out of four major landmarks you can visit again for free. There are two viewing platforms: an indoor option on level 69 and the open-air skydeck on level 72. Alternatively, make a Saturday night of it at a silent disco on 11 & 25 May; £37.50, book online. Look out for Pilates classes, family breakfast clubs, chocolate tastings and Champagne parties.

Daily 10am-10pm. Adult £32; child £25; tickets must be purchased in advance online. www.theview fromtheshard.com. 32 London Bridge St, SE1 9SG. T: 0844-499 7111. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Ride the magical 4D ‘DreamWorks Tours’ bus to step into live actor fairy-tale-themed shows, where you can meet the characters from the much-loved films. Joint tickets with the Coca-Cola London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and SEA LIFE London Aquarium available. Please check for times. Adult £27.50; child £22. www.shreks adventure.com. Riverside Building, County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-221 2837.

F8. Station: Westminster/Waterloo.

Spencer House This aristocratic palace was built in 1766 by Lord Spencer, an ancestor of Princess Diana. Overlooking Green Park, the house boasts sumptuous, Imperial Rome-inspired interiors. It is possible to visit Spencer House’s eight state rooms on a guided tour. Sun 10.30am-4.30pm; Mon pre-booked groups only. Adult £15; child £12. www.spencer house.co.uk. 27 St James’s Place, SW1A 1NR. T: 020-7514 1958. E7. Station: Green Park.

St Katharine Docks

WINDSOR CASTLE

This central London marina dates back to the 11th century and is tucked away by the Tower of London. A vibrant waterside destination, it’s lined with regular markets, shops, the Alexander Miles Gallery and restaurants including Dokke, Bravas Tapas, Zizzi and Emilia’s Crafted Pasta. 8-12 May: London Yacht Show. As well as luxurious boats, visitors to this festival can browse supercars and designer lifestyle goods; from £25. www.skdocks. co.uk. 50 St Katharine’s Way, E1W 1LA. T: 020-7264 5287. Off map. Station: Tower Hill.

WINDSOR

Palladian church with tours, a brass-rubbing centre, live classical music (some free) and art exhibitions.

Holy Communion given daily and classical music performed weekly by candlelight. This month, there will be free lunchtime concerts from 1pm on 3, 7, 10, 13, 14, 17, 20, 21, 24, 27 & 31 May. Mon-Fri 8.30am-6pm; Sat-Sun 9am-6pm. Admission free; brass rubbing from £4.50. www.stmartin-in-thefields.org. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 0207766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

St Paul’s Cathedral Sir Christopher Wren’s 300-year-old cathedral has stunning mosaics. Climb up the dome to the Whispering Gallery and a further 271 steps to the Golden Gallery, for a classic London panorama.

Then head down to the crypt, with its monuments to Wren and Lord Nelson. The price of admission also includes a multimedia guide and tours, subject to availability on the day. Mon-Sat 8.30am-4.30pm. Adult £20; child £8.50. www.stpauls.co.uk. St Paul’s Churchyard, EC4M 8AD. T: 020-7246 8350.

D9/10. Station: St Paul’s.

For great views of the city, jump on the Coca-Cola London Eye (p. 28)

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St Martin-in-the-Fields

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SIGHTSEEING 18 Stafford Terrace

Warner Bros. Studio Tour London

This house offers an insight into the personal Explore behind the scenes of the lives of Punch cartoonist Edward Linley Harry Potter films with The Making of Harry Sambourne, his wife Marion, their two Potter Tour. Visitors can witness sets children and their live-in servants, including the Great Hall, Hagrid’s Hut, who resided here from 1875.

Diagon Alley and a recreation of A highlight is the costumed actor Platform 9¾. The tour now also In The Making of Harry tours, every Saturday from 11am, on includes Gringotts Wizarding Bank Potter Tour, more than which you’ll meet Mrs Sambourne (p. 10). Check for times. Adult £43; 950 potion jars line or her parlour maid Mrs Reffell for child £35. Booking essential; reduced the walls of the a dramatic account based on old Overground rail services 4-6 May. classroom set diaries. Open Wed, Sat & Sun; www.wbstudiotour.co.uk. Studio Tour pre-booked tours 11am; drop-in Drive, Leavesden, Hertfordshire, WD25 7LS. 2pm-5.30pm, or late tours from 7pm on 29 May. T: 0845-084 0900. Off map. Station: Euston to Adult from £7; child from £5. www.rbkc.gov.uk.

Watford Junction, then shuttle bus.

18 Stafford Terrace, W8 7BH. T: 020-7602 3316.

Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

DID YOU KNOW?

Tower Bridge This breathtaking bridge, which was completed in 1894, is one of London’s most famous landmarks (not to be confused with its less grand, but much older neighbour, London Bridge). You can tour the engine rooms with a knowledgeable guide and even join a yoga class on the glass walkways, 42m above the River Thames. Joint tickets with The Monument available. Daily 9.30am-5.30pm.

Adult £9.80; child £4.20. Please check for bridge lift times. www.towerbridge.org.uk. Tower Bridge Rd, SE1 2UP. T: 020-7403 3761. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

Wellington Arch Climb to the viewing galleries of this magnificent arch for panoramic views over the Royal Parks and Houses of Parliament, plus exhibitions.

Joint tickets available with Apsley House. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £5.40; child £3.20. www.englishheritage.org.uk. Apsley Way, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7JZ. T: 020-7930 2726. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Westminster Abbey Consecrated in 1065, this abbey is the crowning and burial site of most English monarchs. It also houses Poets’ Corner, the final resting place of Charles Dickens and other famous writers. In 2018, the abbey unveiled its first major structural addition

THE QUEEN’S GALLERY BUCKINGHAM PALACE

Tower of London This historic landmark includes the Bloody Tower, Traitors’ Gate and the Jewel House, home of the Crown Jewels. Enjoy free guided tours by ‘Beefeaters’ (Yeoman Warders). Book ahead online to attend the nightly Ceremony of the Keys, which dates back to 1340 (tickets are free). 15 May: State Opening of Parliament. In honour of this ceremonial occasion, the Tower will fire 62 rounds from its guns at 1pm. You do not need a Tower ticket to watch them as they can be viewed on Tower Hill, however closer views will be available inside the Tower for ticket holders. Tue-Sat 9am5.30pm; Sun-Mon 10am-5.30pm. Adult £27.50; child £13.10. www.hrp.org.uk. Tower Hill, EC3N 4AB. T: 0844-482 7799. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

Up at The O2 Prepare for an unforgettable 90-minute experience which will take you on an uplifting expedition across the roof of The O2.

From the viewing platform at the top you can enjoy spectacular 360-degree views of the River Thames, Emirates Air Line, Canary Wharf and beyond. Please check for times and wheelchair access. From £30. www.theo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2680. Off map.

Station: North Greenwich.

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SIGHTSEEING in more than a quarter of a millenium, a new tower that leads to The Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Galleries. Housed in the medieval triforium and offering panoramic views of the surrounding area, this new exhibition space tells the story of the abbey through more than 300 objects. 28 May: Evening Talk: William Blake. By Tim Heath from the William Blake Society; 6pm; £10, members only.

Mon-Fri 9.30am-4.30pm; Sat 9am-4pm; closed 4 May. Wed late opening 4.30pm-7pm, with half-price entry. Abbey only adult £23; child £10. Abbey and The Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Galleries adult £28; child £10. www.westminsterabbey.org. 20 Dean’s Yard, SW1P 3PA. T: 020-7222 5152. F7. Station: Westminster/St James’s Park.

WWT London Wetland Centre This 104-acre wildlife reserve has the Water’s Edge Café overlooking lakes, ponds and gardens that are home to more than 100 species of rare and wild birds. Visitors can watch the otters and birds being fed every day, while there are also daily ‘Spotlight’ talks on various subjects. 29-31 May: Birds of Prey. A chance to see the likes of owls, peregrine falcons and kestrels in flight, then have the expert falconer answer your questions. Daily 9.30am-5.30pm. Adult £13; child £7.90. www.wwt.org.uk. Queen Elizabeth’s Walk, SW13 9WT. T: 020-8409 4400. Off map.

Station: Barnes.

RIVER TRIPS Circular Cruise Westminster Circular Cruise Westminster operates a hop-on, hop-off service from Westminster Pier. Boats depart every 40 minutes for Embankment, Festival, Bankside and St Katharine’s Piers (for the Tower of London), returning non-stop to Westminster. To 24 May daily departures 11am-5pm; from 25 May daily 11am-6.30pm. Adult single £10.25, return £15.25; child single £6.50, return £10. www.circularcruise.london.

Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7936 2033. F8. Station: Westminster.

City Cruises Daily guided sightseeing tours on the Thames between Westminster, London Eye, Tower and Greenwich Piers. River Red Rover is an all-day hop-on, hop-off sightseeing service. The London Showboat cabaret cruise departs from Westminster Pier and includes a meal with live music, daily from 7.30pm. Other cruises also available. Check the website for times and prices. www.citycruises.com.

Departure points vary. T: 020-7740 0400.

London Eye River Cruise

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Live commentary on a 40-minute sightseeing river cruise. Mon-Fri 10.45am-5.45pm; Sat-Sun & 27-31 May 10am-7.45pm. Adult £13.50; child £10.

Discounted joint tickets with the London Eye available. www.londoneye.com/river-cruise. London Eye Pier, South Bank, SE1 7PB. F8. Station: Waterloo.

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The fastest and most frequent fleet on the river, with departures from major London piers every 20 minutes. The boats set off from 22 piers across the capital. Discounts with Oyster cards and contactless payment. Download its free in:flow app, which uses GPS tracking to find out your location and provides real-time audio explanation of the sights. River Roamer hop-on and hop-off (valid all day from 9am) advance adult £17.80, child £8.90; on the day adult £19.80, child £9.90; children under five travel free. Adult single journeys from £4.40. www.mbnathames clippers.com. T: 020-7001 2200.

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SIGHTSEEING Thames River Services

City of London Guides Walks

Golden Tours

This hop-on, hop-off service features live audio commentary. Departs from Westminster Pier to Greenwich 10am-4pm and from Greenwich to Westminster via St Katharine’s 11am-5pm.

Please check for prices (33 per cent off published fares with a valid TFL Travelcard). www.thames riverservices.london. Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7936 4097.

F8. Station: Westminster.

Themed walks not offered by other companies, focusing on everything from Fleet Street to Smithfield Market and City gardens, all within the historic Square Mile. Free-£12.50. www.cityof londonguides.com. Departure points vary.

From day excursions to overnight city breaks, the London expert offers quality tour experiences from London to popular locations such as Bath, Stonehenge, Windsor Castle and Brighton.

The company offers an unrivalled range of tours and services. Please check for times and prices. www.goldentours.com. Departure points vary.

T: 020-7630 2039.

Thamesjet Try ThamesRush, a 50-minute adrenaline-fuelled experience – the most extreme ride on the river – and you’ll enjoy sightseeing, speed and awesome aquabatics all in one. Departs from Westminster Pier. From 10am, but depends on the tide so please check for times. Minimum height requirement 1.35m/4ft 5in. Adult from £39; child from £29. www.thamesjet.com. Westminster Bridge, SE1 7GL. T: 020-7740 0400. F8. Station: Westminster.

Evan Evans The oldest and largest sightseeing company in London has been accompanying visitors on city tours and out-of-town excursions since 1930. Visit everywhere from Warwick Castle to Stonehenge, as well as all the London sights. Please check for times and prices. www.evanevanstours.com.

Departure points vary. T: 020-7950 1777.

Golden Tours Open-Top Bus Tours See the sights aboard an open-top bus. The Essential Tour includes an English-speaking guide who will describe the sights, or there are multilingual audio commentary tours, during

TOURS & GUIDED WALKS BEE Midtown Guided Walks Approximately 10 free, themed walking tours per month around Bloomsbury, Farringdon and Holborn, an area also known as Midtown. The full guided walks programme is published near the bottom of BEE Midtown’s homepage; most walks do not require pre-booking. www.bee-midtown.org.

Departure points vary. T: 020-7078 7077.

Big Bus Tours Daily sightseeing trips aboard a fleet of open-top, double-decker buses. Various ticket packages are available, from one to three days. A one-day orientation tour includes a free, 90-minute walking tour and a one-way river cruise. Classic Ticket (one day) adult £37; child £19. www.bigbustours.com.

Departure points vary. T: 020-7808 6753.

Big Bus Walking Tours Enjoy a 90-minute historic and royal guided walk from Trafalgar Square, along Carlton Gardens, the Mall and through St James’s Park to Horse Guards Parade, taking in areas that can’t be reached by bus. Daily 10.30am. Free with Big Bus London Tour tickets. www.bigbustours.com. Departs from the Big Bus stop in Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7808 6753. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

SEE IT. HEAR IT. FEEL IT. The all-new Chelsea FC Museum and Tour experience.

Get closer than ever before with exclusive content, 360 films and much more.

Billingsgate Roman House & Baths Beneath the cobbled pathways of the Square Mile lies a rich Roman history that’s survived 2,000 years of construction, fires and World War II bombs.

Lower Thames Street is home to one of Roman London’s most fascinating remains, discovered in 1848. Explore this fascinating insight into ancient life in the City on an hour-long guided tour and discover the remains of the Roman Bathhouse, which lies hidden beneath offices. Sat 11am, noon and 1pm. Adult £10.19; child £8.06; advance online booking essential. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk.

101 Lower Thames St, EC3R 6DL. T: 020-7001 9844.

E11. Station: Tower Hill.

A Blue Badge- or City of London-qualified guide drives you around in a taxi for up to five people.

Choose from London tours by day or night, trips outside the city and themed tours including a Doctor Who option – on which you’ll see a Tardis and locations from the films and TV series. There’s even a tour for fans of TV’s Downton Abbey. Prices vary and are per taxi. www.capitaltaxitours.co.uk.

Departure points vary. T: 020-8590 3621.

TOURS AVAILABLE IN 12 LANGUAGES

VISIT CHELSEAFC.COM/TOURS FOR MORE INFORMATION. 02514

WESTMINSTER ABBEY © ISTOCK

Capital Taxi Tours

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SIGHTSEEING which you can hop-on and hop-off the bus.

Three-hour, one-day, 24-, 48- and 72-hour tickets.

Please check for prices. www.goldentours.com.

Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039.

Hairy Goat Photography Tours Offering exploratory photography tours alongside personal, tailor-made or regular group workshops, the acclaimed Hairy Goat Photography Tours offers daytime and evening options. Discover back streets, pubs, alleys, churches and the finer details of new and old architecture, as well as the street and river scenes that make London such a joy to photograph. www.hairygoat.net. Departure points vary. T: 07540-832771.

Jack the Ripper Tour

The London Helicopter Tour

Blue Badge Guide Richard Jones of London Walking Tours devised these two-hour walks in 1982, offering an intriguing look at the infamous serial killer. Numbers are limited in order to give participants a better experience. Booking essential.

Daily 7pm. £10. www.jack-the-ripper-tour.com. Exit 4, Aldgate East Station. T: 020-8530 8443. Off map.

Discover the capital from the unique perspective of a helicopter, with its uninterrupted views.

Departing from London’s only heliport, glide above the Thames, taking in iconic landmarks including the Tower of London, St Paul’s Cathedral and The Shard. Choose from the 10-minute Buzz, 20-minute Sights or 30-minute Max tour. Prices start at £200 per seat for a shared tour. www.the londonhelicopter.com. The POD Building, Bridges Court, SW11 3BE. T: 020-7887 2626. Off map.

Station: Clapham Junction.

Kia Oval Tours Tour of the famous ground, home of Surrey County Cricket Club since 1845 and a regular venue for England matches. Please check for times and prices. www.kiaoval.com. Kia Oval, Kennington, SE11 5SS. T: 020-3946 0100. Off map. Station: Oval.

Three domes.

Five floors.

And Europe’s greatest crypt.

See an other side of St Paul’s.

London Literary Pub Crawl See where the giants of the London literary world ate, drank and worked. This unique tour is artist-led and arranged by the not-for-profit charity Maverick Theatre Company. Starting in Fitzrovia and ending in Soho, it includes pubs and bars associated with the British film industry and contemporary writers. Sat 5pm. Tickets £24; booking strongly advised. www.londonliterarypub crawl.com. 12 Fouberts Place, Carnaby St, W1F 7PA. T: 020-8090 5082. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

London Magical Tours Award-winning provider of private and scheduled group tours to London and its surroundings.

Discover the UK with your own tour team for no parking worries: you’ll be travelling in a private vehicle with a professional guide and a chauffeur.

Multilingual guides are available for all languages. www.londonmagicaltours.com. Departure points vary. T: 0870-489 0156.

London Tailored Tours Private tours for small groups, run by Londoners.

Themed tours include Borough Market, Harry Potter, London Sports, Girls Day Out and A Royal Morning in London. Please check for times and prices. www.londontailoredtours.com. T: 07498-036295.

London Walks London’s oldest walking tour company offers more than 300 walks. Each takes around two hours, departure points vary and there’s no need to book. As well as Jack the Ripper, Harry Potter and ghost walks, London Walks offers routes around London’s ‘villages’, including Kensington and Hampstead. Adult £10; child free when accompanied by an adult. www.walks.com. T: 020-7624 3978.

Neverland Children’s Tours

Climb one dome for the best 360º views in London. Step beneath another to experience the unforgettable. Enrich your visit with an acclaimed multimedia guide, available in nine languages.

www.stpauls.co.uk

Offering fully supervised activities and adventures for children aged eight and above, the aim is to make sightseeing interactive and fun.

Each guided activity is balanced by opportunities to play and make friends. www.neverland childrenstours.co.uk.

International House, 24 Holborn Viaduct, EC1A 2BN. T: 020-3239 5059. D9.

Station: Chancery Lane.

Nelson’s Column has towered over Trafalgar Square since 1843

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SIGHTSEEING Original London Sightseeing Walk

Wembley Stadium Tours

Ninety-minute walks depart daily from the Go behind the scenes at this football stadium and Original London Visitor Centre, near concert venue. The 75-minute tour takes Trafalgar Square on Cockspur Street. you through the players’ tunnel. From Choose from Changing the Guard at 10am; check for dates. Adult £20; 10am, Rock ‘n’ Roll at 1pm and Jack child £12. www.bookings.wembley the Ripper at 4pm (from The tours.com. Wembley Stadium, Original Tour bus stop at Tower HA9 0WS. T: 0800-169 9933.

Buckingham Palace Hill). £9 per walk, or free with an Off map. Station: Wembley Park. has 760 windows, Original London Sightseeing Tour 19 state rooms and Westways Carriage Horses ticket. An Explore Walks Pass, which 78 bathrooms Be picked up from your hotel and see grants access to all three walks over a the sights from a horse-drawn carriage.

48-hour period, costs £18. Alternatively, £550 per carriage. www.westwayscarriage book one of three new Original walking tours: horses.co.uk. T: 020-8572 3155.

Picture London, Royal London and Haunted

DID YOU KNOW?

OUT OF TOWN Ashmolean Museum of Art and Archaeology

Britain’s first public museum dates back to 1683.

See archaeological artefacts, pre-Raphaelite paintings, Egyptian mummies and Oliver Cromwell’s death mask. To 9 Jun: Jeff Koons.

Curated in partnership with the artist, explore 17 artworks dating from the 1980s to the present day. Daily 10am-5pm; last Fri of each month 10am-8pm. Free admission, charges for special exhibitions. www.ashmolean.org. Beaumont St, Oxford, OX1 2PH. T: 01865-278 000. Off map.

Station: Paddington to Oxford.

London all run Fri-Sun and cost £5 each or £10 for all three. www.theoriginaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

The Original Tour With more than 65 years’ experience, these live and multilingual open-top guided bus tours take you to the city’s best attractions, allowing you to hop-on and hop-off at more than 80 stops. The 24-hour tour includes free walking tours and a Thames River cruise pass. 24-hour adult £34, child £16; 48-hour adult £44, child £21. www.theoriginaltour.com.

17-19 Cockspur St, Trafalgar Square, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

Royal Albert Hall Tours Take the one-hour grand tour of this Victorian concert hall. Tours daily 9.30am-4.30pm; no tours 6-8 May. Adult £14.50; child £7. www.royal alberthall.com. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7959 0558. F4. Station: South Kensington.

Royal Opera House Tours One of the world’s leading opera venues and home to the Royal Ballet company. A variety of tour options offer access to the auditorium, the Royal Retiring Room and even backstage as the Opera House prepares for that evening’s performance.

Backstage Tour most days 10.30am, 12.30pm & 2.30pm, £11.50-£15; Velvet, Gilt and Glamour Tour selected days 4pm, £11.50-£15. www.roh.org. uk/tours. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000.

D8. Station: Covent Garden.

See London by Night Tour Ride around the West End and City in the evening for a different view of the capital. Regular departures from outside The Ritz. Tours last 90 minutes. Daily 7.30pm, 8pm, 8.30pm, 9.15pm, 9.45pm & 10.15pm.

Adult £21; child £12. www.seelondonbynight.com.

150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7183 4744. E6.

Station: Green Park.

NELSON’S COLUMN © KEITH MINDHAM PHOTOGRAPHY

Shakespeare’s Globe This reconstruction of Shakespeare’s original Elizabethan Globe theatre has a thatched roof, while its Sam Wanamaker Playhouse is a candlelit performance space. The half-hour tour begins every 30 minutes, after which you may browse the Globe’s exhibition. Daily 9.30am-12.30pm; exhibition and Globe theatre tour adult £17; child £10. www.shakespearesglobe.com. 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7902 1400. E10. Station: Blackfriars.

Twizy Tours Hire a two-seater electric Renault Twizy, then drive yourself through London accompanied by an entertaining, GPS-guided audio tour. Alternatively, rent a Twizy without the audio tour and roam freely at your own pace. Prices from £30 per rental. www.twizytours.com. Apcoa Parking Car Park, 21 Bryanston St, W1H 7AB. T: 07376-428363.

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SIGHTSEEING

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Fulham facelift

Journey west along the Thames to Fulham Palace which, despite being more than 500 years old, has possibly never looked better.

This historic riverside powerhouse has been lavished with a £3.8m renovation and now has a new museum, a restored Tudor courtyard and transformed gardens. The palace’s reopening (from 25 May; p. 24) marks a great time to discover this site, which was the official residence of every Bishop of London from 704 AD until 1973. Several rooms have opened up to the public for the first time, while a new ‘mood room’ details the palace’s history with a sound and light show.

The palace also has a free Tudor Fun Day (26 May), with fancy dress and musical workshops.

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and sightseeing activities in the area

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Hever Castle and Gardens

See three centuries of treasures in magnificent state rooms at this Baroque palace, the birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill set in 2,100 acres of parkland and formal gardens. 4-6 May: Jousting Tournament.

Watch knights on horseback, then enjoy children’s archery and jesters. 25-27 May: Blenheim Palace Food Festival. This year’s focus is on showcasing education and the environment. Palace daily 10.30am-5.30pm, park daily 9am-6pm; formal gardens daily 10am6pm. Palace, park & gardens adult £27; child £15.50.

Park & gardens adult £16; child £7.40. Free entry for under-fives. www.blenheimpalace.com. Woodstock, Oxfordshire, OX20 1PP. T: 01993-810 530. Off map.

Station: Paddington to Oxford, then bus S3.

Dating back to the 13th century, this beautiful castle was the childhood home of Henry VIII’s second wife, Anne Boleyn. The Tudor castle has magnificent interiors, while the castle’s gardens feature statues and a lake for boat rides. 4-6 May: May Day Festival.

Maypole dancing, Robin Hood mini-play and more.

From 25 May: Edwardian Life. Step back in time to the early 20th century at this family-friendly event. Daily 10.30am-6pm; castle from noon. Adult £17.75; child £9.95. www.hevercastle.co.uk. Hever, Edenbridge, Kent, TN8 7NG. T: 01732-865224.

Off map. Station: London Bridge to Edenbridge.

Chartwell The family home of wartime Prime Minister Sir Winston Churchill. While Churchill and his wife Clementine were still living here, it was bought by the National Trust and maintained on behalf of the nation, retaining its 1930s-style decor. House Mon-Fri 11.30am-5pm, Sat-Sun 11am-5pm; garden and restaurant daily 10am-5pm. Adult £15.50; child £7.75. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/chartwell. Mapleton Rd, Westerham, Kent, TN16 1PS. T: 01732-868 381.

Off map. Station: London Bridge to Edenbridge.

Hampton Court Palace Once the favourite royal residence of King Henry VIII, this Tudor palace and 300-year-old maze is set in 60 acres of parkland on the river. Visit the Tudor kitchens, which would have prepared feasts for the king and all his courtiers, then see Henry’s state apartments. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £23.70; child £11.90. www.hrp.org.uk. Hampton Court, East Molesey, Surrey, KT8 9AU. T: 0844-482 7777.

Off map. Station: Waterloo to Hampton Court.

Leeds Castle Fairy-tale, 900-year-old castle with a moat, gardens and parkland. Lose yourself in the spiralling yew maze and watch a falconry display. 11-12 May: Motors by the Moat. Celebration of all things motoring.

25-27 May: Medieval Jousting Tournament. Warriors on horseback and archery displays. Grounds and garden daily 10am-6pm; castle 10.30am-5.30pm.

Adult £26; child £17.50; under-fours free. www.leedscastle.com. Maidstone, Kent, ME17 1PL. T: 01622765 400. Off map. Station: Victoria to Bearsted.

The Original Tour Windsor & Eton Explore the beautiful town of Windsor and nearby Eton College, using 10 bus stops incorporating the castle grounds and following the river. Hop-on and hop-off to discover this famous market town and its centuries-old royal history. Adult £14; child £8.

Combined package with The Original Tour London (24 hours London, 24 hours Windsor) adult £47; child £23. www.theoriginaltour.com. Theatre Royal Windsor, Thames St, Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 1PS. T: 020-8877 1722. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Riverside.

FULHAM PALACE © WWW.STUTHOMAS.COM

...for shops, restaurants, theatre bookings

Blenheim Palace

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Osterley Park and House Explore this beautiful country home decorated as it would have been in the 1780s, then stroll its formal gardens or stop for a snack in the stable tearoom.

Garden daily 10am-5pm; house daily noon-4pm.

Adult £12; child £6. www.nationaltrust.org.uk.

Jersey Rd, Isleworth, Middlesex, TW7 4RB. T: 0208232 5050. Off map. Station: Osterley/Isleworth.

Palace of Holyroodhouse The Queen’s official residence in Scotland stands at the end of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile, against the spectacular backdrop of Arthur’s Seat. Daily 9.30am6pm; closed 14-25 May. Adult £15; child £8.70. www.rct.uk/palaceofholyroodhouse. Canongate, Royal Mile, Edinburgh, EH8 8DX. T: 0303-123 7306.

Off map. Station: Euston to Edinburgh Waverley.

Stonehenge The world’s most famous stone circle and a World Heritage Site, Stonehenge is more than 5,000 years old. With obscure Neolithic origins, it is perfectly aligned with the rising sun at the solstice. Daily 9.30am-7pm. Adult £19.50; child £11.70. www.englishheritage.org.uk. Amesbury, Wiltshire, SP4 7DE. T: 0870-333 1181. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Salisbury, then bus or taxi.

Syon Park This Palladian mansion set in parkland is home to the Duke of Northumberland. Gardens daily 10.30am5pm; house Wed, Thur, Sun & bank hols 11am-5pm.

Adult £13; child £6. www.syonpark.co.uk. Syon Park, Brentford, Middlesex, TW8 8JF. T: 020-8560 0882. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Syon Lane.

Waddesdon Manor Renaissance-style chateau built in the late 19th century. Magnificent house and wine cellars, plus gardens and an aviary. Grounds Wed-Sun & bank hols 10am-5pm; house Wed-Fri noon-4pm, Sat-Sun & bank hols 10am-5pm. Grounds only adult £11, child £5.50; house and grounds adult £21, child £11.50. www.waddesdon.org.uk. Near Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire, HP18 0JH. T: 01296-820414.

Off map. Station: Marylebone to Aylesbury.

London looks amazing, beautifully lit up at night

See

By Night

Warwick Castle Built in 914 by Ethelfleda, daughter of Alfred the Great, this castle is now a family-friendly experience. Daily, subject to weather; please check for times. Castle adult £21, child £19; castle & dungeon adult £25, child £22. www.warwickcastle.com. Warwick, Warwickshire, CV34 6AH. T: 0871-265 2000. Off map. Station: Warwick.

Windsor Castle The Queen’s weekend home and the world’s oldest inhabited castle. Includes state apartments furnished with art by Rembrandt, Rubens and Canaletto. Changing the Guard alternate days 11am except Sun. Daily 10am-5.15pm; castle closed 3 & 18 May; chapel closed 2 May. Adult £22.50; child £13. www.rct.uk/windsorcastle.

Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 1NJ. T: 0303-123 7304.

Off map. Station: Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Central or Windsor & Eton Riverside.

Woburn Abbey and Gardens Set in a 3,000-acre deer park, this historic abbey has been home to the earls and dukes of Bedford for nearly 400 years. Tour the abbey, then stroll around its Repton-inspired gardens. Gardens, deer park, tea room and shop daily 10am-6pm; abbey daily 11am-5pm. Gardens and deer park adult £8.25; child £5.50. Abbey, gardens and deer park adult £18; child £9. www.woburnabbey.co.uk.

Woburn, Bedfordshire, MK17 9WA. T: 01525-290333.

Off map. Station: St Pancras to Flitwick.

Departing daily from Green Park bus stop next to the Ritz Hotel

at 19:30, 20:00, 20:30, 21:15, 21:45 and 22:15 Spectacular live guided tours of London by night

Adult - £21 Child - £12

Private tours available for groups day or night

Tel: 0844 504 3285 +44 (0)20 7183 4744

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

‘Da Vinci’s drawings have aged more successfully than his paintings’

L

eonardo da Vinci may have died half a millennium ago, but his presence in art is everywhere. From the Mona Lisa starring next to Beyoncé and Jay Z in a music video, to the recently discovered Salvator Mundi holding the title of the world’s most expensive painting (around £346 million), da Vinci’s grip on our culture seems immortal.

This month, The Queen’s Gallery is hosting Leonardo da Vinci: A Life in Drawing (from 24 May; p. 43) to mark the 500th anniversary of his death, describing it as a ‘once-in-a-generation exhibition’.

Adjacent to Buckingham Palace, the gallery is a showcase for the Royal Collection which owns many of da Vinci’s drawings.

The exhibition consists of more than 200 drawings and is the latest phase of a year-long celebration, which began in February when 144 works were displayed in 12 different venues around the UK. They cover his studies of architecture, sculpture, anatomy, engineering, botany and geology.

But why should you get excited about the sketches by a man who is arguably best known for his paintings? Well, Leonardo

da Vinci’s drawings have aged more successfully than his paintings; The Last Supper, for example, was painted on a wall and has deteriorated over time. It’s easier to preserve works on paper so, as curator Anne Stewart says, viewing these is like ‘looking over Leonardo’s shoulder as he’s drawing’.

They chart his progression, from pen-andink studies of human profiles, to his final years working for France’s King Francis I. It provides a wonderful opportunity to dive inside the glittering mind of a genius.

NEIL SIMPSON Museums & Galleries Editor

IMAGE © ROYAL COLLECTION TRUST/HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II 2019

Leonardo da Vinci’s drawing of the skull from 1489

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Arsenal Stadium Tours & Museum Football fans can enjoy a self-guided audio tour for a sneak peek inside the players’ changing rooms, tunnel, the dugout and more, or a Legends Tour led by ex-Arsenal players. Please check for times and prices. www.arsenal.com/tours. Emirates Stadium, Hornsey Rd, N5 1BU. T: 020-7619 5003.

Off map. Station: Arsenal.

Bank of England Museum The bank’s story from its foundation in 1694, to its status today as the UK’s central bank.

See gold bars, books, silver, paintings, coins and photographs and look out for kids’ activities.

Mon-Fri 10am-5pm; closed bank hols. Admission free. www.bankofengland.co.uk. Threadneedle St, EC2R 8AH. T: 020-7601 5545. D10. Station: Bank.

Benjamin Franklin House This charming 18th-century townhouse was the last remaining home of the American diplomat, inventor and Founding Father, with tours led by costumed actors. Please check for times, tours and prices. www.benjaminfranklinhouse.org.

36 Craven St, WC2N 5NF. T: 020-7925 1405.

E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Body Worlds This world-renowned museum brand specialises in the human body. Its flagship contains 200 exhibits exploring how the human works using the latest plastination technology. Sun-Thur 9.30am-7pm; Fri-Sat 9.30am-9pm. Advance (at least 24 hours) adult £24.50, child £17.50; on the day adult £28, child £22. www.bodyworlds.co.uk.

London Pavilion, 1 Piccadilly Circus, W1J 0DA. T: 0330-223 3233. E7.

Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The British Museum

The Cinema Museum

See an unrivalled collection of antiquities.

From 23 May: The Citi Exhibition: Manga.

The world of manga is brought to life. To 21 Jul: Edvard Munch: Love and Angst. Discover the Norwegian artist’s talent for capturing human emotions in the largest show of his prints in the UK for 45 years. Sat-Thur 10am-5.30pm; Fri 10am-8.30pm. Admission free; charges for some exhibitions. www.britishmuseum.org. Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8299. D7/8.

Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Collection of artefacts, memorabilia and equipment from the 1890s onwards. Booking essential; check for film screenings, times and prices. www.cinemamuseum.org.uk. 2 Dugard Way, SE11 4TH. T: 020-7840 2200. G9. Station: Elephant & Castle.

Charles Dickens Museum Visit the former home of the Victorian novelist Charles Dickens, where he wrote classics including Oliver Twist. Decorated in Victorian style, it displays his personal possessions. Tue-Sun & bank hols 10am-5pm. Adult £9.50; child £4.50. www.dickens museum.com. 48 Doughty St, WC1N 2LX. T: 0207405 2127. C8. Station: Russell Square.

Chelsea FC Stadium Museum & Tours Guided one-hour tours of the dressing room, players’ tunnel and press room, plus a museum with memorabilia and trophies. Open daily, check for times and prices. www.chelseafc.com/tours.

Stamford Bridge, SW6 1HS. T: 0371-811 1955.

Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.

Churchill War Rooms Explore the fortified secret bunker and the Cabinet War Rooms beneath Westminster, where Prime Minister Sir Winston Churchill worked during World War II to plot the Allied victory. Daily 9.30am-6pm.

Adult £22; child £11. www.iwm.org.uk. Clive Steps, King Charles St, SW1A 2AQ. T: 020-7930 6961. F7.

Station: Westminster.

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Life in cartoon

If you love manga, there’s one place to be: The British Museum.

The iconic institution claims that Manga (from 23 May) will be the biggest exhibition of the art form that has been held beyond Japan.

The museum has recreated Tokyo’s oldest manga bookshop and even installed a booth that turns you into a manga character. Exhibits have been sourced from across Japan, displaying the creations of luminaries such as Osamu Tezuka (Astro Boy), Boy Akiko Higashimura (Princess Jellyfish Jellyfish) and Akira Toriyama ((Dragon Ball). A highlight is an 1880 curtain from the stage at Tokyo’s Shintomiza Kabuki Theatre that’s decorated with painted demons and ghosts.

The Design Museum Leading museum of contemporary design and architecture. To 15 Sep: Stanley Kubrick: The Exhibition.

Twenty years after the director’s death, see original props, costumes and rare photographs. Check for times and prices. www.designmuseum.org.

224-238 Kensington High St, W8 6AG. T: 020-3862 5900. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

The Fan Museum Small museum dedicated to the art of fans, with examples from the 12th century to the present day. You can enjoy afternoon tea in the Orangery, which has a beautiful mural. Tue-Sat 11am-5pm; Sun noon-5pm. Adult £5; child £3. www.thefan museum.org.uk. 12 Crooms Hill, SE10 8ER. T: 0208305 1441. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark.

Fashion and Textile Museum Fashion and jewellery from 1947 to today. To 2 Jun: Swinging London: A Lifestyle Revolution. Celebrating the work of Terence Conran, Mary Quant and others prominent in photography and art from 1952 to 1977.

Please check for times. Adult £9.90; child free. www.ftmlondon.org. 83 Bermondsey St, SE1 3XF. T: 020-7407 8664. F11. Station: London Bridge.

Florence Nightingale Museum Learn about the work of the pioneering 19th-century British nurse and health reformer, known as ‘The Lady with the Lamp’. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £8; child £4. www.florence-nightingale.co.uk. 2 Lambeth Palace Rd, SE1 7EW. T: 020-7188 4400. F8. Station: Waterloo/Westminster.

The Foundling Museum Britain’s original home for abandoned children, founded in 1739 by Coram, Hogarth and Handel.

Please check for times and prices. www.foundling museum.org.uk. 40 Brunswick Square, WC1N 1AZ. T: 020-7841 3600. C8. Station: Russell Square.

The Garden Museum Located in an historic church, with a replica 17th-century knot garden and exhibitions relating to garden design. Please check for times. Adult £10; child £2.50. www.gardenmuseum.org.uk.

Lambeth Palace Rd, SE1 7LB. T: 020-7401 8865.

F5. Station: Lambeth North/Westminster.

The Guards Museum History, stories and regimental heritage of the five regiments of the Foot Guards, which watch over the royal palaces. Daily 10am-4pm; closed 25 May. Adult £8; child free. www.theguardsmuseum.com.

Wellington Barracks, Birdcage Walk, SW1E 6HQ. T: 020-7414 3271. D5. Station: St James’s Park.

Horniman Museum & Gardens Collection based upon the Victorian tea trader, Frederick John Horniman, including an aquarium. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.horniman. ac.uk. 100 London Rd, SE23 3PQ. T: 020-8699 1872.

Off map. Station: Forest Hill.

‘‘

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (B5 etc.) are coordinates for the map on p. 72-73

THE POE CLAN BY HAGIO MOTO © MOTO HAGIO/SHOGAKUKA INC

MUSEUMS

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Household Cavalry Museum

DID YOU KNOW?

Troopers and their horses work in the original 18th-century stables, with rare treasures on display.

Museum daily 10am-6pm. Adult £8.50, child £6.50. www.householdcavalrymuseum.co.uk. Horse Guards Parade, Whitehall, SW1A 2AX. T: 020-7930 3070.

E7. Station: Westminster/Embankment.

Norman Foster designed The British Museum’s ceiling: this courtyard is the largest covered public square in Europe

Imperial War Museum Huge displays relating to global conflicts from World War I to contemporary confrontations, including the powerful Holocaust Exhibition. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for some exhibitions. www.iwm.org.uk. Lambeth Rd, SE1 6HZ. T: 020-7416 5000. F9. Station: Waterloo.

Jewish Museum Jewish history and culture in the UK from 1066 to today, including a representation of the East End. Sat-Thur 10am-5pm; Fri 10am-2pm. Adult £7.50; child £3.50. www.jewishmuseum.org.uk. Raymond Burton House, 129-131 Albert St, NW1 7NB. T: 020-7284 7384. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

Leighton House Museum Restored former home of Frederic, Lord Leighton, now a museum of his life and work. Check for times and tours. Adult £9; child free. www.rbkc. gov.uk. 12 Holland Park Rd, W14 8LZ. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: Kensington Olympia.

London Film Museum Bond in Motion is the largest official exhibition of James Bond vehicles that feature in the films. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £14.50; child £9.50. www.london filmmuseum.com. 45 Wellington St, WC2E 7BN. T: 020-7836 4913. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

London Transport Museum The story of London’s transport system, including red buses and the world’s first Underground steam train. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £18; child free. www.ltmuseum.co.uk. Covent Garden Piazza, WC2E 7BB. T: 020-7379 6344.

E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Mandela: The Official Exhibition Learn about the story of Nelson Mandela’s life through themed zones, plus artefacts including his possessions from Robben Island prison. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £15; child £13.50. www.mandela exhibition.com. 26 Leake St, SE1 7NN. T: 020-7928 4944. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Museum of London The world’s largest urban history museum includes the Roman and Medieval London galleries. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions and walking tours. www.museumoflondon.org.uk. 150 London Wall, EC2Y 5HN. T: 020-7001 9844. D10. Station: Barbican/St Paul’s.

Museum of London Docklands The history of the Thames, from its time as a Roman thoroughfare to the Docklands’ regeneration.

Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free, charges for special exhibitions. www.museumoflondon.org.uk.

T: 020-7001 9844. Off map. Station: West India Quay.

National Army Museum Interactive displays and exhibitions telling the stories of soldiers’ lives. Daily 10am-5.30pm.

Admission free; charges for some exhibitions. www.nam.ac.uk. Royal Hospital Rd, SW3 4HT. T: 020-7730 0717. Off map. Station: Sloane Square.

National Maritime Museum Historic exhibits, from iconic maritime objects to great British art. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free; charges for guided tours, events and exhibitions. www.rmg.co.uk. Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich/Cutty Sark.

Natural History Museum Astounding collections, including dinosaur skeletons and fossils. To 30 Jun: Wildlife Photographer of the Year. Top selections from more than 45,000 submissions. Daily 10am-5.50pm.

Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nhm.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 5BD. T: 0207942 5000. F4. Station: South Kensington.

The Postal Museum Thousands of exhibits explore postal history, plus you can ride on the Mail Rail, a train in the tunnels that transported post. Daily 10am-5pm.

Please check for prices. www.postalmuseum.org.

15-20 Phoenix Place, WC1X 0DA. T: 030-0030 0700.

C8. Station: Russell Square.

TATE BRITAIN

27 M A R – 11 AU G 2019

THE E Y E XHIBITION

THE BRITISH MUSEUM © ISTOCK

P I M L I CO u F R EE F O R TAT E M E M B ER S With additional support from the Van Gogh Exhibition Supporters Circle, Tate International Council and Tate Members

THE TIMES E V EN I N G S TA N DA R D

Media partner Vincent van Gogh Self-Portrait Autumn 1889 (detail) National Gallery of Art, Washington. Collection of Mr and Mrs John Hay Whitney, 1998.74.5

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Science Museum A huge museum dedicated to science, technology and medical achievements, with permanent galleries, a Red Arrows 3D flight simulator and an IMAX theatre showing 3D science films. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.sciencemuseum.org.uk.

Exhibition Rd, SW7 2DD. T: 0333-241 4000. F4.

Station: South Kensington.

The Sherlock Holmes Museum Museum dedicated to the fictional detective, who lived here from 1881 until 1904. The Victorian house has been maintained as described in Sir Arthur Conan Doyle’s stories. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £15; child £10. www.sherlock-holmes.co.uk. 221b Baker St, NW1 6XE. T: 020-7224 3688. C5. Station: Baker Street.

Sir John Soane’s Museum This 19th-century townhouse was owned by architect Sir John Soane and houses his eclectic collection.

Please check for times and tours. Admission free. www.soane.org. 13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields, WC2A 3BP. T: 020-7405 2107. D8. Station: Holborn.

Somerset House Delightful home to the Embankment Galleries.

To 6 May: Sony World Photography Awards Exhibition. See more than 800 images from around the world. Please check for times and prices. www.somersethouse.org.uk. Strand, WC2R 1LA. T: 020-7845 4600. E8. Station: Temple.

Twinings Museum Twinings’ flagship store since 1706 has a mini exhibition of the company’s 300-year history, including the original Royal Warrant signed by Queen Victoria. Please check for times. Admission free. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.

V&A Museum of Childhood Charming museum with a national collection of childhood objects dating back to the 16th century, Daily 10am-5.45pm. Admission free. www.vam. ac.uk/moc. Cambridge Heath Rd, E2 9PA. T: 0208983 5200. Off map. Station: Bethnal Green.

BE BOWLED OVER Tate Britain has a timely exhibition devoted to the artist Frank Bowling (from 31 May; p. 43). Born in Guyana, he arrived in the UK with other immigrants on HMS Windrush in 1950 and studied at London’s Royal College of Art. This striking show explores his political stance, such as repositioning the focus of the world map in response to the Civil Rights movement. See his huge ‘Poured Paintings’, created by tipping paint onto canvases from up high.

This is bold, explosive art.

‘‘

Food for thought If you’re thinking about where and what to eat tonight, then head to the Victoria and Albert Museum first.

Its new exhibition, Food: Bigger than the Plate (from 18 May), tackles humankind’s most vital industry. There’s an increasing number of news stories about the negative impact our eating habits are having on the planet, but this exhibition offers some positive solutions. See GroCycle’s urban mushroom farm, which uses the museum café’s leftover coffee grounds to help grow oyster mushrooms, learn some hop-picking tips and find out about a ‘sausage of the future’.

The Vault Once used to protect the Queen’s treasures, it’s now home to rock ‘n’ roll memorabilia. Daily 11.30am10.30pm. Admission free. www.hardrock.com. Hard Rock Cafe London, 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 020-7514 1700. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Victoria and Albert Museum Outstanding collection of fine and applied arts.

From 18 May: Food: Bigger than the Plate.

Exhibition offering solutions to the food industry’s problems. To 16 Feb 2020: Mary Quant. A look at the influence of Mary Quant on UK youth culture from the 1950s onwards. Check for times and prices. www.vam.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 2RL. T: 0207942 2000. F4/5. Station: South Kensington.

The Wallace Collection The former Wallace family home displays their collection of Rococo art, sculpture and furniture.

To 23 Jun: Henry Moore: The Helmet Heads. The British artist’s helmet-inspired sculptures. Daily 10am-5pm.

Admission free. www.wallacecollection.org.

Hertford House, Manchester Square, W1U 3BN. T: 020-7563 9500. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Wellcome Collection Hundreds of fascinating artefacts relating to health and the body. To 15 Sep: Smoke and Mirrors: The Psychology of Magic. Investigating why we love to be tricked. Please check for times. Admission free. www.wellcomecollection.org. 183 Euston Rd, NW1 2BE. T: 020-7611 2222. C7. Station: Euston.

Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum & Tours At the venue of the famous Championships, see old trophies and tennis kits worn by champions.

Tours of the grounds include Centre Court. Check for times and prices. www.wimbledon.com. All England Lawn Tennis Club, Church Rd, SW19 5AE. T: 020-8946 6131. Off map. Station: Southfields then bus 493 or a 12-minute walk.

World Rugby Museum Recently refurbished, this showcase for global rugby culture has more than 38,000 exhibits, including items from the 1924 New Zealand side.

Check for museum and tour times and prices. www.worldrugbymuseum.com. Twickenham Stadium, Whitton Rd, Twickenham, TW2 7BA. T: 020-8892 8877. Off map. Station: Twickenham.

GALLERIES Guildhall Art Gallery Paintings collected by the City of London since the 17th century, plus the Roman Amphitheatre.

Check for times and prices. www.cityoflondon. gov.uk. Guildhall Yard, off Gresham St, EC2V 5AE. T: 020-7332 3700. D10. Station: Bank.

Hayward Gallery Home of visual arts at the Southbank Centre.

To 6 May: Diane Arbus: In the Beginning. Photographs depicting New York City’s marginalised communities between 1956 and 1962.

Please check for times and prices. www.southbank centre.co.uk. Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-3879 9555. E8. Station: Waterloo.

ALAS! MY POOR BROTHER POSTER BY WH CAFFYN ADVERTISING BOVRIL, 1905, COURTESY OF VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM; COVER GIRL, 1966 © FRANK BOWLING/ALL RIGHTS RESERVED, DACS 2019

This royal villa was designed by Inigo Jones and is filled with spectacular art, architecture and royal history. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free; charge for guided tour. www.rmg.co.uk. Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark.

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Queen’s House

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES ICA (Institute of Contemporary Arts) Exhibitions of contemporary art and installations, plus a bar and restaurant, a bookshop and an art-house cinema. Check for times and prices. www.ica.art. The Mall, SW1Y 5AH. T: 020-7930 3647.

E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Charing Cross.

SPENCER HOUSE

London’s most magnificent eighteenth-century aristocratic palace

The National Gallery One of the world’s greatest galleries, with works by Western European masters from the 13th to 19th centuries. To 11 Aug: Sea Star: Sean Scully. Abstract works by the Irish-American artist. To 7 Jul: Sorolla: Master of Light. Paintings by the Impressionist Joaquín Sorolla y Bastida. Please check for times and prices. www.nationalgallery.org.uk. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7747 2885. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

National Portrait Gallery Artworks depicting famous British people.

To 27 May: Only Human: Martin Parr.

Incisive depictions of British culture and society by the popular British photographer. Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.npg.org.uk.

St Martin’s Place, WC2H 0HE. T: 020-7312 2463.

E7. Station: Leicester Square.

The Photographers’ Gallery London’s largest gallery devoted to photography.

To 2 Jun: Deutsche Börse Photography Foundation Prize. See the works by this year’s four finalists.

Please check for times. Adult £5, or free from 5pm; child free. www.thephotographersgallery.org.uk.

16-18 Ramillies St, W1F 7LW. T: 020-7087 9300.

D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

The Queen’s Gallery

Open to the public for guided tours on Sundays.

On June 2nd, 16th & 30th we will be opening the grounds for our Garden Open Days.

Group tours are available on Sundays and during the week.

+44 (0) 20 7514 1958 | tours@spencerhouse.co.uk | www.spencerhouse.co.uk 27 St James’s Place, London, SW1A 1NR

Gallery next to Buckingham Palace (closed to 23 May).

From 24 May: Leonardo da Vinci: A Life in Drawing.See more than 200 da Vinci drawings (p. 38).

Daily 10am-5.30pm; (closed to 23 May). Adult £12; child £6. www.rct.uk. Buckingham Palace, SW1A SPENCER HOUSE_WL_THIRDP.indd 4 1AA. T: 0303-123 7301. F7. Station: Victoria.

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Royal Academy of Arts Attractive 18th-century building with RA Collection works in all media. To 2 Jun: The Renaissance Nude.

How European nudity was depicted during the 15th and 16th centuries. Please check for times.

Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.royalacademy.org.uk. 6 Burlington Gardens, W1J 0BD. T: 020-7300 8000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Green Park.

Tate Britain Leading British art from 1500 to today (p. 42).

To 6 May: Don McCullin. Huge body of work by the photojournalist, ranging from conflict to travel. To 11 Aug: The EY Exhibition: Van Gogh and Britain. See paintings by the post-Impressionist exploring Britain’s influence on him. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8888. G8. Station: Pimlico.

Tate Modern World-class modern art in a former power station.

To 6 May: Pierre Bonnard: The Colour of Memory. The French painter’s collection of works.

To 2 Jun: Franz West. The Austrian artist’s punk-style work, including papier-mâché pieces. Please check for times and prices. www.tate.org.uk. Bankside, SE1 9TG. T: 020-7887 8888. E9. Station: Southwark.

Whitechapel Gallery Contemporary art gallery with regularly changing exhibitions and group shows. Please check for times and prices. www.whitechapel.org. 77-82 Whitechapel High St, E1 7QX. T: 020-7522 7888.

Off map. Station: Aldgate East.

350 years of history. 311 steps.

1 breathtaking view. themonument.org.uk I 020 7403 3761 The Monument is owned, funded and managed by the City of London Corporation.

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‘ The reopening of Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre heralds the start of summer’

W

atching a show under the stars, wrapped in blankets and feeling the breeze on your face, is pretty special. But a visit to Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre (p. 51) isn’t just about seeing a show: it’s worth going early to make a night of it and have a picnic in the grounds, or dinner under fairylights.

For me, the reopening of Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre heralds the start of summer – and it’s one of the highlights of mine. The season starts with Our Town (from 16 May), the 1938 Pulitzer Prizewinning play by Thornton Wilder.

Traditionally, it’s performed on a minimal set with actors miming instead of using

props. This version is directed by Ellen McDougall, who’s worked on everything from Othello at Shakespeare’s Globe to Aladdin at the Lyric Hammersmith. She says: ‘The magic of Our Town is that it explores what it is to be human, without needing elaborate props to tell the story.’

Set in a fictional American town, it’s a play within a play that’s partly narrated by a stage manager, who breaks the fourth wall to talk to the audience. This tragedy explores the circle of life and how little we appreciate what we have until we’ve lost it.

On that cheery note, later in the summer you can see Hansel and Gretel (14-22 Jun), an opera by Engelbert Humperdinck

that’s co-produced with the English National Opera and directed by Timothy Sheader, the theatre’s artistic director.

That’s followed by Dominic Hill’s version of Shakespeare’s A Midsummer Night’s Dream (28 Jun-27 Jul) and the classic musical Evita (2 Aug-21 Sep), with lyrics by Tim Rice and music by Andrew Lloyd Webber.

The theatre will also host outdoor events on Sunday evenings throughout the summer. As well as comedy and live music by singer-songwriter Nick Mulvey, you can join a singalong of Mary Poppins Returns or watch A Star is Born and Life of Brian with The Luna Cinema.

SARAH RICHES Entertainment Editor

REGENT’S PARK OPEN AIR THEATRE © DAVID JENSEN

ENTERTAINMENT

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ENTERTAINMENT

MUSICALS & PERFORMANCES Ain’t Misbehavin’ To 1 Jun: This celebration of jazz musician Fats Waller is set in 1920s Manhattan. 3pm & 7.30pm.

Tickets £16-£27.50. www.southwarkplayhouse. co.uk. 77-85 Newington Causeway, SE1 6BD. T: 0207407 0234. F10. Station: Elephant and Castle.

Aladdin This Broadway and West End hit has a stellar cast led by director and choreographer Casey Nicholaw. Expect tunes such as A Whole New World and Friend Like Me and a ‘real’ magic carpet. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm.

Tickets £27.25-£99.75. www.aladdinthemusical. co.uk. Prince Edward Theatre, Old Compton St, W1D 4HS. T: 0844-482 5151. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Piccadilly Circus.

The Book of Mormon To 8 May: This controversial satire

follows the exploits of two hapless missionaries from the Church of Latter Day Saints. Check for times. Tickets £29.75-£100. www.bookofmormon london.com. Prince of Wales Theatre, Coventry St, W1D 6AS. T: 0844-482 5110. E7. Station: Leicester Square/Piccadilly Circus.

Come from Away

Follies

An upbeat musical about how a tight-knit community on a Canadian island rallied round to host 7,000 stranded international passengers in the wake of the 2001 US terrorist attacks. Check for times and prices. www.phoenixtheatrelondon.co.uk.

Phoenix Theatre, 110 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0JP. T: 0843-316 1082. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

To 11 May: New York, 1971: there’s a party on the stage of the Weismann Theatre, the night before the building is due to be demolished.

Thirty years after their final performance, the Follies girls gather for drinks and singalongs. Please check for times and prices. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk.

National Theatre, Upper Ground, SE1 9PX. T: 0207452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.

The Crystal Maze Fun, interactive experience based on a retro TV show. Check for times and prices. www.the-crystalmaze.com. 22-32 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7EJ. T: 0161-791 0727. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Everybody’s Talking About Jamie Feel-good musical about a bullied teenager.

Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £20-£85. www.everybodystalkingaboutjamie.co.uk.

Apollo Theatre, 31 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. T: 0330-333 4809. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Fiddler on the Roof To 15 Jun: Trevor Nunn directs this classic musical set in Russia at the turn of the 1905 Revolution.

Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Tue, Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £20-£125. www.atgtickets.com. Playhouse Theatre, Northumberland Ave, WC2N 5DE. T: 0844-871 7631.

E8. Station: Embankment.

‘‘

A bankable success

Hamilton Set in the late 1700s, this hip-hop musical has been a multi-award-winning hit on Broadway.

It’s based on Ron Chernow’s biography of the USA’s founding father, Alexander Hamilton, an orphaned immigrant born in the Caribbean. Check for times and prices. www.hamiltonthemusical. co.uk. Victoria Palace Theatre, Victoria St, SW1E 5EA. T: 0844-482 5138. F6. Station: Victoria.

Les Misérables The world’s longest-running musical, adapted from Victor Hugo’s novel, is set in post-revolutionary France. Please check for times. Tickets £42.25£177.25. www.lesmis.com. Queen’s Theatre, 51 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 6BA. T: 0844-482 5160.

D8. Station: Leicester Square/Piccadilly Circus.

The Lion King Wonderful adaptation of the Disney film with ingenious costumes and puppetry. Check for times. Tickets £23-£200.25. www.thelionking. co.uk. Lyceum Theatre, 21 Wellington St, WC2E 7RQ. T: 0844-871 3000. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Mamma Mia!

Hollywood director Sam Mendes’ The Lehman Trilogy was a major success at the National Theatre last year and now it returns to a new home: the Piccadilly Theatre (from 11 May; p. 48). While the drama has been cut to three hours and 20 minutes, it’s still an epic play. Written by Italian playwright Stefano Massini, this English version has been adapted by Ben Power, who says: ‘We’ve tried to capture the romance, tragedy and theatricality of Massini’s vision.’ Three brothers arriving in New York from Bavaria in 1844 establish Lehman Brothers bank, only for it to go bankrupt 163 years later – triggering the 2008 financial crisis.

A tribute to the popular music of ABBA, with a feel-good story set on a Greek island. Mon-Sat 7.45pm; Thur & Sat 3pm. Tickets £27.25-£127.25. www.mamma-mia.com. Novello, Aldwych, WC2B 4LD. T: 0844-482 5115. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Man of La Mancha To 8 Jun: A comical farce about a deluded ‘knight’, starring Kelsey Grammer and Nicholas Lyndhurst.

Please check for times and prices. www.eno.org.

33 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4ES. T: 020-7845 9300.

E8. Station: Charing Cross.

‘‘

Matilda the Musical Fantastic show based on Roald Dahl’s children’s book about a girl with magic powers.

The humour is spot-on for adults and kids alike.

Please check for times. Tickets £25-£122.50. www.matildathemusical.com. Cambridge Theatre, 32-34 Earlham St, WC2H 9HU. T: 0844-412 4652.

D8. Station: Covent Garden.

9 to 5 The Musical

Only Fools and Horses: The Musical A comical musical based on the hit British sitcom about a wheeler-dealer scheming how to get rich.

Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £16.80£168. www.trh.co.uk. Theatre Royal Haymarket, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HT. T: 020-7930 8800. E7.

Station: Piccadilly Circus.

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (B5 etc.) are coordinates for the map on p. 72-73

THE LEHMAN TRILOGY © MARK DOUET

Fun Dolly Parton musical about women who seek revenge on their sexist boss, starring Louise Redknapp, Bonnie Langford and comedian Brian Conley. You’ll head back to your hotel singing the theme tune. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm.

Tickets £20-£125. www.9to5themusical.co.uk.

Savoy Theatre, Strand, WC2R 0ET. T: 0844-871 7687. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

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P H E N O M E NO N

QUEEN’S THEATRE Original Production Until 13th July

GIELGUD THEATRE

All-Star Staged Concert From 10th August to 30th November

QUEEN’S THEATRE

The Acclaimed New Production Opens 18th December

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The Phantom of the Opera Gothic drama in which a mysterious masked man haunts the Paris Opera House. Check for times.

Tickets £25-£175. www.thephantomoftheopera.com.

Her Majesty’s Theatre, 57 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QL. T: 0844-412 2707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Rip It Up To 2 Jun: The ultimate boy-band musical, starring Aston Merrygold (JLS) and Jay McGuiness (The Wanted). Wed-Sun 7.30pm; Wed & Sat-Sun 2pm.

Tickets from £25. www.garricktheatre.org. Garrick Theatre, 2 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0HH. T: 0844482 9673. E7/8. Station: Leicester Square.

‘‘

Dreams for sale

A talented quartet is bringing Death of a Salesman to the Young Vic (from 1 May).

This version of Arthur Miller’s 1949 play, directed by Marianne Elliott and Miranda Cromwell, is seen through the eyes of an African-American family. Wendell Pierce leads as Willy, a stressed-out, disillusioned travelling salesman, alongside his wife Linda, who’s played by the Olivier Award-winning Sharon D Clarke.

The play may be in its 70th year, but its themes of family conflict, chasing the American dream and disappointment still strike a chord.

‘‘

ENTERTAINMENT

School of Rock: The Musical Andrew Lloyd Webber’s latest musical, based on the film of the same name, was a hit on Broadway and it’s a smash here, too. Please check for times. Tickets £15-£150. www.schoolofrockthe musical.com. Gillian Lynne Theatre, 166 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PF. T: 020-7452 3000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Thriller Live Non-stop songs and dance celebrate Michael Jackson’s career. Please check for times and prices. www.thrillerlive.com. Lyric, 29 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. T: 0844-482 9674. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Tina – The Tina Turner Musical Hit musical based on the life of Anna Mae Bullock, aka Tina Turner, with hits including the 1984 song What’s Love got to do with It? Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £10-£159.50. www.tinathe musical.com. Aldwych Theatre, 9 Aldwych, WC2B 4DF. T: 0845-200 7981. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Jenna, a waitress and pie-maker, dreams of escaping her small town and rocky marriage.

Please check for times. Tickets £19.50-£135. www.waitressthemusical.co.uk. Adelphi Theatre, 409-412 Strand, WC2R 0NS. T: 0844-579 0094.

E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Wicked The brilliant back story of the witches of Oz with the hit tunes Defying Gravity and Popular.

Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £22-£202.75. www.wickedthemusical.co.uk.

Apollo Victoria Theatre, 17 Wilton Rd, SW1V 1LG. T: 0844-871 3001. F7. Station: Victoria.

PLAYS All About Eve To 11 May: Gillian Anderson

and Lily James star in this classic tale, about an established actress and an ambitious but ruthless younger star in the making. Please check for times and prices. www.delfontmackintosh.co.uk. Noël Coward Theatre, St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4AU. T: 0844-482 5140. E8. Station: Leicester Square.

DID YOU KNOW? The Mousetrap is the longest-running play in London – it’s been on stage for more than 66 years

All My Sons

Harry Potter and the Cursed Child

Arthur Miller’s classic drama, starring Sally Field and Bill Pullman. Please check for times. Ticket £12-£65. www.oldvictheatre.com. The Old Vic, The Cut, SE1 8NB. T: 0844-871 7628. F9. Station: Waterloo.

The long-awaited parts I and II of the adaptation of JK Rowling’s new story (p. 10).

Father-of-three Harry now works for the Ministry of Magic, but his youngest son grapples with the legacy he never wanted. Most tickets are sold out; check for returns and times. www.harrypotterthe play.com. Palace Theatre, 113 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 5AY. T: 0300-333 4813. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

Betrayal To 1 Jun: Tom Hiddleston stars in Harold Pinter’s play, charting a seven-year romance. Please check for times and prices. www.atgtickets.com. Harold Pinter Theatre, Panton St, SW1Y 4DN. T: 0844-871 7622. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Comedy About a Bank Robbery A hilarious play about six incompetent crooks trying to get hold of a diamond. Check for times.

Tickets £10-£73.75. www.thecomedyaboutabank robbery.com. Criterion, 218-223 Piccadilly, W1V 9LB. T: 0844-815 6131. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Death of a Salesman From 1 May: Marianne Elliott co-directs

this Arthur Miller play, starring Sharon D Clarke.

Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £25£40. www.youngvic.org. Young Vic, 66 The Cut, SE1 8LZ. T: 020-7922 2922. F9. Station: Waterloo.

Emilia

The Lehman Trilogy From 11 May: Sam Mendes directs this play about the fall of the Lehman Brothers bank, which triggered the 2008 financial crash (p. 46). Check for times. Tickets £18-£145. www.piccadillytheatre.org.

Piccadilly Theatre, 16 Denman St, W1D 7DY. T: 0844-871 7630. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Mousetrap A murderer strikes at a party in Agatha Christie’s long-running whodunnit. Please check for times and prices. www.the-mousetrap.co.uk. St Martin’s Theatre, West St, WC2H 9NZ. T: 0844-499 1515.

D7. Station: Leicester Square.

The Play That Goes Wrong

The story of Emilia Bassano, thought to be the muse of Shakespeare’s sonnets. Please check for times and prices. www.vaudeville-theatre.co.uk.

Vaudeville, 404 Strand, WC2R 0NH. T: 0330-333 4814. E8. Station: Charing Cross/Covent Garden.

Slapstick comedy about a drama society staging a murder mystery. Please check for times. Tickets £20-£72. www.theplaythatgoes wrong.com. Duchess Theatre, 3-5 Catherine St, WC2B 5LA. T: 0844-482 9672. D8. Station: Covent Garden/Holborn.

Faulty Towers: The Dining Experience

Rosmersholm

Seventies-style dining and interactive comedy combine. Check for times. Tickets £75-£80. www.faultytowers-uk.com. Radisson Blu Edwardian, 9-13 Bloomsbury St, WC1B 3QD. T: 0845-154 4145.

D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Henrik Ibsen’s gripping and relevant play is set just as an election looms. Check for times and prices. www.dukeofyorkstheatre.co.uk. Duke of York’s Theatre, 104 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4BG. T: 0844-871 7627. E8. Station: Leicester Square.

DEATH OF A SALESMAN COURTESY OF YOUNG VIC; THE MOUSETRAP © ISTOCK

Waitress

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ENTERTAINMENT The Starry Messenger From 16 May: Matthew Broderick and Elizabeth McGovern star in this comic drama about a New York astronomer (p. 7). Check for times.

Tickets £27.25-£127.25. www.delfontmackintosh. co.uk. Wyndham’s Theatre, Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0DA. T: 0844-482 5120. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Top Girls Caryl Churchill’s innovative play about a country divided by its own ambitions. Please check for times. Tickets £15-£68. www.nationaltheatre. org.uk. National Theatre, Upper Ground, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.

White Pearl From 10 May: A Singaporean skincare advert goes viral for all the wrong reasons. Mon-Sat 7.30pm (16 May 7pm); Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Please check for prices. www.royalcourttheatre.com. Royal Court Theatre, Sloane Square, SW1W 8AS. T: 020-7565 5000. G6. Station: Sloane Square.

Witness for the Prosecution Based on Agatha Christie’s novel, this play is staged in a former courtroom. Check for times. Tickets £10-£79.50. www.witnesscountyhall.com. County Hall, Belvedere Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0844-815 7141. F8.

Station: Waterloo/Westminster.

The Woman in Black Spooky story about a lawyer who visits a remote house to settle affairs after a woman’s death. Check for times. Tickets £21.50-£52. www.thewomanin black.com. Fortune Theatre, Russell St, WC2B 5HH. T: 0844-871 7626. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

UNDER YOUR SKIN A new play at the Royal Court Theatre has captured the cultural zeitgeist, as it shines a spotlight on whitening cream – a booming industry. Written by the Thai-Australian playwright Anchuli Felicia King and directed

by Nana Dakin, White Pearl (from 10 May) is set in Singapore and explores the topical issues of racism and skin lightening: a draft of an advert for Clearday skin cream goes viral, causing a backlash on social media and bad press coverage. Can the company’s PR solve the crisis?

★★★★★ D A I LY T E L E G R A P H , M E T R O , T H E S U N , D A I LY E X P R E S S , D A I LY M A I L

‘A RAW MUSICAL TRIUMPH. This show has heart, soul and more than a bit of rock’n’roll.’

ANN TRENEM AN, THE TIMES

THE TINA TURNER MUSICAL

WHITE PEARL © NIALL MCDIARMID

THERE IS ONLY ONE

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ENTERTAINMENT

CONCERTS: CLASSICAL Barbican 9 May: Fate. London Schools Symphony Orchestra.

7.30pm. Tickets £9-£26. www.barbican.org.uk. Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 8891. C10. Station: Barbican.

Royal Albert Hall

In the heart of Leicester Square

1 May: Bach Evolution. Bach’s Cello Suites are

reinvented by British composer Peter Gregson.

7.30pm. Check for prices. www.royalalberthall.com.

Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212. G4. Station: South Kensington.

CONCERTS: POP, JAZZ & WORLD The O2 2-10 May: Take That. 24 May: Rita Ora. 30 May-1 Jun: Michael Bublé. Check for times and prices. www.the o2.co.uk. Peninsula Square, SE10 0AX. T: 0844-856 0202. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club London’s most famous jazz venue. 15-16 May: Claire Martin. Check for times and prices. www.ronnie scotts.co.uk. 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747.

D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

DANCE Royal Opera House To 11 Jun: Romeo and Juliet. Kenneth MacMillan’s 20th-century ballet masterpiece. Check for times and prices. www.roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Last minute & discount theatre tickets

Sadler’s Wells 9-11 May: Rite of Spring. Yang Liping reunites with Oscar-winning designer Tim Yip to recreate Igor Stravinsky’s work. Thur-Sat 7.30pm. Tickets £15-£50. www.sadlerswells.com. Rosebery Ave, EC1R 4TN. T: 020-7863 8000. Off map. Station: Angel.

OPERA Royal Opera House To 6 May: Faust. David McVicar’s production of

Gounod’s best-loved opera. Check for times. Tickets £31-£210. www.roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

FESTIVALS & EVENTS Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre Watch shows under the stars (p. 44). Please check for times and prices. www.openairtheatre.com.

Inner Circle, Regent’s Park, NW1 4NU. T: 0844826 4242. C6. Station: Baker Street.

Underbelly Festival Comedy, circus, cabaret and family shows. Check for times and prices. www.underbellyfestival.com.

Belvedere Road Coach Park, SE1 8XX. T: 0844-545 8252. E8. Station: Waterloo.

CHILDREN & FAMILIES Dido From 11 May: The theatre join forces with the English National Opera for this version of Purcell’s classic. Suitable for over-11s. Please check for times. Adult £10-£24; child £8-£18. www.unicorntheatre.com. Unicorn Theatre, 147 Tooley St, SE1 2HZ. T: 020-7645 0560.

E11. Station: London Bridge.

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SHOPPING Bond Street Home to designer boutiques, antiques, art and jewellery, plus auction houses Sotheby’s and Bonhams. D6/E6/E7. Station: Bond Street.

Carnaby Here you can find sports-inspired stores as well as edgy designers. D7/E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Covent Garden This former fruit and vegetable market is now a popular covered centre for arts, crafts and souvenir stalls. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Hatton Garden This hidden historic corner of London is home to the jewellery trade and the centre of the diamond industry. C9/D9. Station: Farringdon.

King’s Road This iconic street attracts a polished crowd; look out for the quirky shops at World’s End. Duke of York Square bustles with restaurants, clothes shops and a food market. G4. Station: Sloane Square.

Oxford Street Europe’s busiest shopping street has department stores, plus major high-street chains. D6/D7.

Station: Oxford Circus/Bond Street/Marble Arch.

Savile Row One of London’s most famous areas for men’s tailoring, especially suits. E7. Station: Green Park.

MAJOR STORES Fortnum & Mason This British institution, which was established in 1707, is famed for its food hall. Mon-Sat 10am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.fortnumandmason.com.

181 Piccadilly, W1A 1ER. T: 0845-300 1707. E7.

Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Hamleys Huge toy shop spread over seven floors, with high-tech and retro toys. There are children’s entertainers, too. Check for times. www.hamleys.com. 188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT. T: 0871-704 1977. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Harrods Magnificent Edwardian food and meat halls, as well as a great range of fashion, cosmetics, a spa, bars and numerous restaurants. Mon-Fri 10am-9pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.harrods.com. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234.

F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

John Lewis & Partners Find fashion labels, homeware and electricals.

Check for times. www.johnlewis.com. 300 Oxford St, W1A 1EX (and branches). T: 020-7629 7711.

D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Liberty Famous for its prints and haberdashery department.

Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.liberty. co.uk. Great Marlborough St, W1B 5AH. T: 0207734 1234. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Marks & Spencer Reliable source for lingerie and food, as well as many fashion collections (multiple locations around London). Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.marksandspencer.com.

458 Oxford St, W1C 1AP. T: 020-7935 7954.

D6. Station: Marble Arch.

Selfridges This is the largest shop on Oxford Street: visit the department store for the finest products in beauty and fashion. Look out for the public art on display throughout the store. Mon-Sat 9.30am10pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.selfridges.com.

400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 0800-123 400. D6.

Station: Bond Street.

LUXURY ARCADES Burlington Arcade Running from Burlington Gardens to Piccadilly, this Regency arcade is home to high-end specialist shops. Each morning it opens with a gate ceremony. Mon-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat 9am-6.30pm; Sun 11am-5pm. www.burlingtonarcade.co.uk. Burlington Arcade, W1J 0QJ. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

FASHION

Alexander McQueen Flagship fashion boutique with a collection of clothes, bags and shoes. www.alexandermcqueen. co.uk. 4-5 Old Bond St, W1S 4PD. T: 020-7355 0088.

E7. Station: Green Park/Bond Street.

Burberry Find a classic trench coat by this famous British label; also with a monogramming service. www.burberry.com. 121 Regent St, W1B 4TB (and branches). T: 020-7806 8904. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Oxford Circus.

Chanel Exuding style and class in all of its designs and products, fashion-forward shoppers can browse accessories, clothing and bags. www.chanel.com.

158-159 New Bond St, W1S 7UB (and branches).

T: 020-7493 5040. E6. Station: Green Park.

Gucci One of the world’s most desirable brands, known for its legendary Italian quality. www.gucci.com/uk.

18 Sloane St, SW1X 9NE (and branches). T: 0207235 6707. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Hackett This store is for shoppers who hanker after the classic British gentleman-at-leisure look. Find polos, sporting jackets and cords (multiple locations). www.hackett.com. 193-197 Regent St, W1B 4LY. T: 020-7494 4917. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

GOD SAVE MCQUEEN Alexander McQueen was one of London’s most famous designers; his brand was behind the Duchess of Cambridge’s wedding dress, and pulls off headline-hitting catwalk shows. The flagship store on Old Bond Street is now giving you the chance to see the label’s archive pieces, from photography to art. Look out for talks and exhibitions. Given that the Victoria and Albert Museum’s show on the late designer was a sold-out success, this is likely to be a huge draw.

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. References at the end of listings (C4 etc.) are coordinates for the map on p. 72-73

IMAGE COURTESY OF ALEXANDER MCQUEEN. FACING PAGE IMAGES © ISTOCK

MAJOR SHOPPING AREAS

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SHOPPING

Browse vinyl in London’s specialist shops

‘ If you’re a serious collector, there are also ‘by appointment only’ shops’

L

ondon has given the world countless musicians, from David Bowie to Adele.

But as the way we listen to songs has changed, there has been a fall in the number of music shops. So much so that HMV on Oxford Street, which was once the brand’s first store, has closed.

While it’s a tough time for music stores, there are new ones opening up in the capital. Coal Drops Yard, in King’s Cross, may be a modern masterpiece, but it’s now home to an old-school record store. Honest Jon’s, which has had a branch in Portobello Road for more than 40 years, has recordings from its own label and books, and hosts free events, from DJs

to bands. Co-founder Alan Scholefield says: ‘There’s an interesting vibe here with the art college, railway station, The British Library and St Pancras Church’ (www.honestjons.com).

In Hackney, World of Echo has recently opened and sells new, used and rare vinyl.

Aimed at supporting local labels and artists, it’s a great place to discover the sounds of the city (www.worldofechomusic.com).

If you’re a serious collector, there are also ‘by appointment only’ shops. Intoxica has everything from soul to rock music, plus music books and magazines. It currently stocks an original copy of The Rolling Stones’ A Special Radio Promotion Album for £5,000,

and The Beatles’ White Album for £350 (www.intoxica.co.uk).

There are even more choices if you don’t just want records. Abbey Road Studios Store sells remastered records alongside memorabilia, from mugs to stationery (www.abbeyroad.com).

London Beatles Store is a mecca for fans of the Fab Four, as you can pick up autographs and T-shirts (www.beatlesstorelondon.co.uk).

Finally, one of our favourite souvenir shops, We Built This City, is filled with art inspired by stars such as George Michael and John Lennon (p. 55). Thank you, London, for the music.

KOHINOOR SAHOTA Shopping Editor

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The Cambridge Danse agnès The Shop at The Bluebird Satchel Company Lente Oakley Pretty Ballerinas Burberry K-Way COS Urban Decay The White Moleskine Monica Pandora Vinader Fred Perry Company Oliver Sweeney Mariage Frères Aesop & Other Stories Hackett NT The Real McCoy’s Barbour Jo Malone COVE N Sandro Jack Wills Calzedonia Claudie E D Pierlot GAR les EL

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Tom Ford has cut it in suits and now he has recently opened his first standalone beauty store. This futuristic boutique has grooming rooms offering wet shaves and hands-on tutorials. Lessons can be filmed by a camera in the mirror, which means you can recreate the look at home.

3 The Market Building, WC2E 8RA. T: 0370-192 5902. www.tomford.com

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Arthur Liberty, the founder of Liberty, spent years travelling to the East to gain inspiration, bringing back beautiful rugs and fabrics. Today the store is famous for its fabrics and prints, which you can find on everything from purses to notebooks.

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SHOPPING

MALLS & FACTORY OUTLETS Bicester Village Discount designer clothes at this relaxed haven.

Check for times. www.bicestervillage.com. Bicester, Oxfordshire, OX26 6WD. T: 01869-323 200. Off map.

Station: Bicester Village, from London Marylebone.

Bus pick-up service from major London hotels.

ICON Outlet New venue for fashion and lifestyle shopping, with restaurants and bars, plus personal shopping.

Please check for times. www.iconattheo2.co.uk.

The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2000. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

London Designer Outlet Mall with around 70 high-street retailers offering reductions of up to 70 per cent. Check for times. www.londondesigneroutlet.com. Wembley Park Boulevard, HA9 0RX. T: 020-8912 5210. Off map.

Station: Wembley Stadium/Wembley Central.

Westfield London This huge mall has high-street names and luxury brands, plus KidZania. www.westfield.com/london.

Ariel Way, W12 7GF. T: 020-3371 2300. Map inset.

Station: Shepherd’s Bush.

Westfield Stratford City This huge mall has 270 shops, a cinema, casino, bars, restaurants and outdoor spaces. www.westfield. com/stratfordcity. 2 Stratford Place, E20 1EJ. T: 0208221 7300. Map inset. Station: Stratford.

JEWELLERY & WATCHES David Morris

The Noble Collection

Twinings

Explore two floors of licensed, finely crafted treasures from Fantastic Beasts, Harry Potter, Game of Thrones and The Lord of the Rings. Find gifts, collectibles, prop replicas and jewellery. www.noblecollection.co.uk. 26-28 Neal St, WC2H 9PS 7NJ. T: 020-3795 6298. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Trading since 1706, this historic shop stocks a huge variety of teas, infusions and teapots.

There’s a small museum displaying tea-related items, too. Daily, check for times. www.twinings. co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511.

D9. Station: Temple.

Red Bus Shop

Quirky souvenir shop offering a twist on classic items. Look out for maps and artworks, including illustrations of London icons (p. 53). Please check for times. www.webuilt-thiscity.com. 56-57 Carnaby St, W1F 9QF. T: 020-3642 9650. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

This leading souvenir shop stocks London-related products including sweatshirts, coasters and key rings.

Look out for the Harry Potter range. www.redbus shop.co.uk. 59-61 York Rd, SE1 7NJ (and branches).

T: 020-7401 7033. F8. Station: Waterloo.

We Built This City

SPECTACULAR SUMMER SAVINGS AT LONDON’S FAVOURITE OUTLET CENTRE Minutes from central London; 50 big brand shops offering savings of UP TO 70% OFF* Get an EXTRA 10% OFF outlet prices** Visit LDO Guest Services for your exclusive Privilege Card.

This esteemed British jewellery brand sells beautiful couture jewellery, hand-crafted using only the finest stones. www.davidmorris.com. 180 New Bond St, W1S 4RL. T: 020-7499 2200. E7. Station: Green Park.

Links of London Find jewellery and watches with high-quality designs. There is an engraving service, too. www.linksoflondon.com. 491 Oxford St, W1A 2LR. T: 020-7491 2371. D5. Station: Bond Street.

KIDS’ STORES LEGO Store Outstanding collection of LEGO merchandise of all varieties, plus a ‘Pick and Build’ wall. www.lego.com/en-gb/stores. 3 Swiss Court, W1D 6AP. T: 020-7839 3480. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

SPECIALIST STORES Buckingham Palace Shop Royal souvenirs. Mon-Sat 9.30am-5pm. www.royal collectionshop.co.uk. 7 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7839 1377. E6. Station: Victoria.

Japan Centre Reliable outlet for traditional food and ingredients from Japan, plus handicrafts. www.japancentre.com.

35b Panton St, SW1Y 4EA. T: 020-3405 1246. E7.

Station: Leicester Square.

London Glassblowing Pick up a beautiful souvenir at Peter Layton’s Bermondsey studio, gallery and shop. You can take part in a glassblowing class, too. www.londonglass blowing.co.uk. 62-66 Bermondsey St, SE1 3UD. T: 020-7403 2800. F11. Station: London Bridge.

Wembley Park Wembley Stadium HA9 0RX www.LondonDesignerOutlet.com Savings off RRP Available at most LDO outlet stores. T&C apply.

*

**

LONDON DESIGNER OUTLET WEMBLEY PARK

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Roast beef at The Red Lion & Sun

REVIEW

Left, this image and top right: The Hero of Maida

‘Try the vegetarian nut roast with fallingoff-your-plate Yorkshire puddings’

E

ngland is rightly proud of its afternoon tea, fish and chips and pubs – and if you don’t dine in a gastropub during your visit, then you’ll be missing out. But with 3,530 pubs in London (according to the latest figures published by the Mayor of London), how do you know which to try?

Fortunately, a respected pub trade magazine recently announced a list of England’s top 50 gastropubs – and London bagged eight. Here are my top three, which I chose for their classic British menus.

Harwood Arms in Fulham is the capital’s only Michelin-starred pub and it specialises in game and wild food. Sample dishes from

its British menu include devilled crab tartlet, Cornish pollock with cauliflower and smoked kipper, lemon-curd doughnuts with Earl Grey cream and marmalade ice cream sandwiches.

Many of the ingredients come from the pub’s rooftop vegetable garden.

The interior is as classic as the menu, with taxidermy, wooden floors, chandeliers and columns. Book ahead if you want to sit in the conservatory (www.harwoodarms.com).

The Red Lion & Sun in Highgate Village serves meat such as Aberdeen Angus beef ribs supplied by Highgate Butchers, as well as Jersey rock oysters and a vegetarian nut roast with falling-off-your-plate Yorkshire

puddings. Just save space for the sticky toffee pudding. If it’s sunny, sit in the back garden (www.theredlionandsun.com).

The Hero of Maida (p. 59) is a Victorian pub near Little Venice with a leafy, two-tier deck at the back which, unusually, is for non-smokers. Thanks to a renovation, it is bright inside with high ceilings and big windows. Upstairs, the dining room has chandeliers and a traditional fireplace. The menu changes daily – on my visit I opted for smoked haddock with mash and cider butter, which was delicious. If they are available, order the Morecambe Bay oysters, which you can enjoy with rhubarb cider.

SARAH RICHES Dining Editor

THE RED LION & SUN IMAGES COURTESY OF THE RED LION & SUN; THE HERO OF MAIDA INTERIOR © SIMON BROWN PHOTOGRAPHY; THE HERO OF MAIDA FOOD AND DRINK IMAGES © MILO BROWN

DINING

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THREE OF THE VERY BEST INDIAN RESTAUR ANTS This award winning sophisticated with an innovative twist, in a theatrical open kitchen setting.

Michelin star.

Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week.

Halkin Arcade (Entrance via Lowndes St) Belgravia, London SW1X 8JT T: 020 7823 1166 E: info@amaya.biz Private dining room seats 14

The rich setting, interesting art and romantic candle lighting are secondary details in London’s haven of great Indian contemporary food.

Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week; weekend brunch with live music.

73 St James’s Street, London SW1A 1PH T: 020 7629 6688 E: info@chutneymary.com Two private dining rooms seat 30 and 16

Classical dishes, lovingly prepared and beautifully served in sumptuous surroundings overlooking Regent Street. The oldest Indian restaurant in the world has a Michelin star.

Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week.

Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 1st floor 99 Regent Street, London W1B 4RS T: 020 7734 1401 E: info@veeraswamy.com Private dining room seats 24

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DINING

‘‘

REVIEW

Taste of India

A new Indian restaurant proves that good things come in threes. Named after a hill station in south India, Ooty has the holy trinity: a Michelin chef, Instagrammable interiors and cocktails.

It has three parts, too: a fine-dining restaurant, a casual restaurant and a bar. Manmeet Singh Bali, former head chef of Vineet Bhatia London (which won a Michelin star), leads the restaurant, which features botanical wallpaper, a wall of (fake) plants and velvet chairs. I tried the Tellicherry coconut softshell crab with a zesty relish. There’s also Goan chicken with chickpea chutney and Keralan lime lobster with squid ink idli (rice cake).

Afterwards, enjoy a Rose Garden cocktail in Ooty Club.

66 Baker St, W1U 7DJ. T: 0203727 5014. www.ooty.co.uk

‘‘

AMERICAS (NORTH & SOUTH)

BRITISH (MODERN)

Chiltern Firehouse

Jason Atherton’s award-winning restaurant and bar boasts beautifully presented, creative dishes, plus stunning City views. £££. Mon-Fri L & D; Sat D. www.citysociallondon.com. Tower 42, 25 Old Broad St, EC2N 1HQ. T: 020-7877 7703. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

Goodman Premium New York steakhouse with US and British beef, dry-aged and hand-cut in-house. ££££.

Mon-Sat L & D (and branches). www.goodman restaurants.com. 24-26 Maddox St, W1S 1QH. T: 020-7499 3776. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Hard Rock Cafe London’s legendary burger joint, with rock memorabilia and a fun atmosphere. ££. Daily L & D. www.hardrock.com. 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1LB. T: 020-7514 1700. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

JW Steakhouse Quality steakhouse serving dry-aged USDA prime beef. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.jwsteakhouse.co.uk.

Grosvenor House Hotel, 86 Park Lane, W1K 7TL. T: 020-7399 8460. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Planet Hollywood Hollywood-inspired dining experience with film memorabilia and an international menu. ££. Daily L & D (bar to 1am). www.planethollywood london.com. 57-60 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QX. T: 0207287 1000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Rainforest Cafe Busy all-day dining in a mock rainforest setting. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.therainforestcafe. co.uk. 20 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7EU. T: 020-7434 3111. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

City Social

Darwin Brasserie Dine on level 36 of the ‘Walkie Talkie’, with spectacular views. ££-£££. Daily B & D; Mon-Fri L. www.skygarden.london. 20 Fenchurch St, EC3M 8AF. T: 0333-772 0020. E11. Station: Monument.

Fenchurch Restaurant This smart venue beneath the roof of the ‘Walkie Talkie’ has great views and serves British seafood and lamb. £££. Daily L & D. www.skygarden.london.

20 Fenchurch St, EC3M 8AF. T: 0333-772 0020. E11. Station: Monument.

Great Court Restaurant Enjoy lunch or afternoon tea above the museum’s Reading Room, under its domed roof. ££. Daily L; Fri D. www.britishmuseum.org. British Museum, Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8990. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Holborn.

The Montagu Kitchen

A cosy restaurant with a farm-to-fork concept and foraged ingredients. The meat-rich menu includes venison cigars and sweet-cured grouse. £££. Mon D; Tue-Sat L & D; Sun L. www.rabbit-restaurant.com.

172 King’s Rd, SW3 4UP. T: 020-3750 0172. Off map.

Station: Sloane Square.

Rex Whistler Restaurant Originally opened in 1927, this arty restaurant features a mural. It’s known for its wine list, which goes well with roast beef or lemon sole. ££. Daily L. www.tate.org.uk. Tate Britain, Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8825. G8. Station: Pimlico.

Sophie’s Steakhouse The Soho branch of this modern steakhouse has an open kitchen and a large covered terrace at the front. ££. Daily L & D. www.sophiessteak house.com. 42-44 Great Windmill St, W1D 7ND (and branch). T: 020-7836 8836. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

DID YOU KNOW?

St Pancras by Searcys

This ornate dining room in the Eurostar terminal has a long The Russian prima Champagne bar overlooking the ballerina Anna Pavlova trains. ££-£££. Daily B, L & D. danced at The Ritz in www.stpancrasbysearcys.co.uk.

1912, six years after Upper Concourse, St Pancras Station, it opened Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900.

C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

Hotel brasserie offering seasonal dishes, weekend brunches and afternoon teas. It is inspired by the National Trust’s Chartwell House in Kent – Winston Churchill’s former home. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.the montagurestaurant.co.uk. Hyatt Regency London – The Churchill, 30 Portman Square, W1H 7BH. T: 020-7299 2037. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

VIVI All-day dining, including afternoon tea and pre-theatre menus. Glass walls make it great for people-watching. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.vivirestaurant.co.uk. Centre Point, 11 St Giles Square, WC2H 8AP. T: 020-8812 3200.

D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 72-73

OOTY © PAUL WINCH FURNESS

This hip hotel restaurant in an old fire station serves US-style dishes with a twist. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.chilternfirehouse.com. 1 Chiltern St, W1U 7PA. T: 020-7073 7676. D6. Station: Baker Street.

Rabbit

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BRITISH (TRADITIONAL)

ENJOY THE THALI AT

Café in the Crypt Underneath a landmark church, this brick-vaulted café serves English dishes at reasonable prices. £.

Mon-Sat B, L & D; Sun 11am-6pm. www.smitf.org.

St Martin-in-the-Fields, off Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1158. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

REAL INDIAN FOOD

Cheneston’s This wood-panelled dining room has Victorian leaded windows. The menu offers classic British dishes such as venison. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.milestonehotel.com. The Milestone Hotel, 1 Kensington Court, W8 5DL. T: 020-7917 1000.

Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

The English Grill Grand hotel restaurant with chandeliers and high ceilings. ££££. Daily B, L, D. www.rubenshotel.com.

The Rubens at the Palace, 39 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PS. T: 020-7834 6600. F6. Station: Victoria.

The Hero of Maida Beautiful four-storey Victorian pub. Dishes might include smoked haddock with mash and cider butter (p. 56). ££. Mon-Fri & Sun L & D; Sat B, L & D. 55 Shirland Rd, W9 2JD. T: 020-3960 9109. www.theheromaidavale.co.uk. Off map. Station: Warwick Avenue.

The Palm Court This grand lounge has palms, mirrored screens and trees. Order afternoon tea in the conservatory. ££.

Check for opening times. www.ihg.com. Kimpton Fitzroy London, 1-8 Russell Square, WC1B 5BE. T: 020-3797 7282. C8. Station: Russell Square.

BAYSWATER, 75 BISHOPS BRIDGE RD COVENT GARDEN, 48 FLORAL ST SELFRIDGES 4TH FL, 400 OXFORD ST EARLS COURT, 147 EARLS COURT ROAD

CAMDEN, 25 PARKWAY ISLINGTON, 80 UPPER ST SOHO, 9 MARSHALL ST

M ASA LA ZO N E .COM

The Ritz Restaurant Enjoy classic British dishes in a beautiful room. Men should wear a jacket and tie. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.theritzlondon.com. The Ritz, 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7300 2370. E7. Station: Green Park.

Rules Plush, 200-year-old restaurant where the likes of Charles Dickens have eaten. ££££. Daily L & D. www.rules.co.uk. 35 Maiden Lane, WC2E 7LB. T: 020-7836 5314. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

ROYAL ALBERT HALL AFTERNOON TEA

The Wolseley The magnificent dining room sets the scene for this famous brasserie, popular for its breakfast.

It also has a late-night menu. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.thewolseley.com. 160 Piccadilly, W1J 9EB. T: 020-7499 6996. E7. Station: Green Park.

CHINESE Chai Wu This contemporary restaurant on the fifth floor of Harrods serves dishes such as Chilean sea bass. ££££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D (until 8pm). www.chaiwu. co.uk. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-3819 8888. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Hakkasan This fashionable, Michelin-starred restaurant serves modern Cantonese dishes. ££££. Daily L & D; Thur-Sat to midnight. www.hakkasan.com. 8 Hanway Place, W1T 1HF (and Mayfair branch). T: 020-7927 7000. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Kai Mayfair Michelin-starred cuisine in an elegant setting, with dishes such as Wagyu beef, and Nanyang chilli lobster. ££££. Daily L & D. www.kaimayfair. co.uk. 65 South Audley St, W1K 2QU. T: 020-7493 8988. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Traditional afternoon tea served in the iconic Royal Albert Hall.

Served Tuesday - Sunday 2:00pm - 4:30pm.

BOOK NOW: royalalberthall.com/afternoontea | 020 7589 8212 www.wheretraveler.com 59

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Time for

TEA

Mei Ume Chinese and Japanese cuisine such as sushi, dim sum, Peking duck and Szechuan chicken. Tall ceilings and columns make it feel grand. ££££. Daily L & D. www.four seasons.com. Four Seasons Hotel, 10 Trinity Square, EC3N 4AJ. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

Min Jiang

This hotel’s new tea is served on a stand that resembles the London Eye. Bite into a Stilton and broccoli quiche and steak and ale pie, then savour scones, a carrot cake Shard and a lemon-curd Big Ben tart.

109-113 Queen’s Gate, SW7 5LP. T: 020-7589 6300. www.townhouse kensington.com

Royal China The flagship serves Cantonese dishes such as crispy aromatic duck and dim sum. £££. Daily L & D. www.royalchinagroup. co.uk. 24-26 Baker St, W1U 3BZ (and branches).

T: 020-7487 4688. D6. Station: Baker Street.

Yauatcha Award-winning dim sum restaurant with both communal and counter seating. Save space for the macarons. £££. Daily L & D. www.yauatcha. com. 15-17 Broadwick St, W1F 0DL (and branch).

T: 020-7494 8888. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN Bibendum FOUR SEASONS Listen to a pianist as you relax in the Rotunda Lounge, in the middle of this upmarket hotel. Its heritage-themed tea is based on the building’s history – enjoy sandwiches, warm scones and lavender macarons along with apricot and verbena sponge and passion fruit ganache.

10 Trinity Square, EC3N 4AJ. T: 0203297 9200. www.fourseasons.com

Claude Bosi’s fine-dining restaurant has a tasting menu and an oyster bar on the ground floor. £££. Wed-Sat D; oyster bar daily L, Mon-Sat D. www.bibendum.co.uk. 81 Fulham Rd, SW3 6RD. T: 020-7581 5817. G5. Station: South Kensington.

The Delaunay Inspired by central Europe’s grand cafés, you can expect European dishes such as schnitzel, borscht and strudel. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.thedelaunay.com. 55 Aldwych, WC2B 4BB. T: 020-7499 8558. D8. Station: Temple.

Galvin at Windows Michelin-starred rooftop restaurant with a daily-changing menu. Booking essential. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L; Mon-Sat D. www.galvinat windows.com. Hilton on Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208 4021. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

The Ivy This celebrity haunt serves British and Asian dishes. £££-££££. Daily L & D (last orders midnight). www.the-ivy.co.uk. 1-5 West St, WC2H 9NQ (and branches). T: 020-7836 4751.

E7/8. Station: Leicester Square.

1 Lombard Street THE MILESTONE HOTEL Enjoy a traditional afternoon tea at this hotel – book seats in the conservatory if you can. After sandwiches and warm scones with Devonshire clotted cream and house-made jam, nibble on éclairs, cupcakes and macarons.

1 Kensington Court, W8 5DL. T: 0207917 1000. www.milestonehotel.com

REVIEW

PLANT POWER The hotel Mandrake in Fitzrovia has a new chef for its South American restaurant, Yopo. Named after a Venezuelan jungle plant, Yopo has a unicorn mural on the ceiling, plants and floor-to-ceiling windows.

The staff are friendly. The seabass ceviche in blood orange juice comes scattered with orange nasturtium petals – it’s a colourful, sweet dish.

Save space for the Itakuja chocolate tart, which arrives dusted with fennel pollen. The vibe changes throughout the day, with string musicians in the morning at breakfast, candles in the evening and a DJ playing at night.

20-21 Newman St, W1T 1PG. T: 020-3146 8880. www.themandrake.com

FISH AND SEAFOOD Neptune

This brasserie, with a huge glass dome, serves dishes such as grilled kippers and caramelised duck. £££. Mon-Fri B, L & D. www.1lombard street.com. 1 Lombard St, EC3V 9AA. T: 0207929 6611. D10. Station: Bank.

Try the exceptional seafood platter and oysters in this Grade II-listed hotel restaurant. £££. Daily B & D; Wed-Sat L. www.ihg.com. Kimpton Fitzroy London, 1-8 Russell Square, WC1B 5BE. T: 0203797 7282. C8. Station: Russell Square.

Ting

The Sea Shell

This smart restaurant in The Shard serves Asian-influenced dishes. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.shangri-la.com/london. Shangri-La, The Shard, 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 0207234 8108. F10. Station: London Bridge.

Order sustainably sourced fish and chips at this decades-old restaurant, which has an aquarium. ££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.seashellrestaurant.co.uk.

49-51 Lisson Grove, NW1 6UH. T: 020-7224 9000.

C5. Station: Marylebone.

LONDON LANDMARKS AFTERNOON TEA COURTESY OF TOWN HOUSE; ROTUNDA LOUNGE HERITAGE TEA COURTESY OF FOUR SEASONS AT TEN TRINITY SQUARE; THE MILESTONE HOTEL COURTESY OF THE MILESTONE HOTEL; YOPO COURTESY OF MANDRAKE

TOWN HOUSE

Enjoy park views while dining on Szechuan cuisine, dim sum and spicy seafood. ££££. Daily L & D. www.minjiang.co.uk. Royal Garden Hotel, 2-24 Kensington High St, W8 4PT. T: 020-7361 1988. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

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DINING

FRENCH

INTERNATIONAL

ITALIAN

Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester

Bbar

Ask Italian

South African-inspired restaurant and bar with safari photographs and animal print banquettes.

Try the biltong and rib-eye. It has live music Thursday to Saturday and a terrace. ££. Daily L & D. www.bbarlondon.com. 43 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7958 7000. F6. Station: Victoria.

Informal restaurant with pizzas, pasta and tempting desserts. ££. Daily L & D. www.askitalian.co.uk.

41-43 Spring St, W2 1JA (and branches). T: 020-8115 7091. D4. Station: Paddington.

Smart venue with superb Michelin-starred cuisine. ££££. Tue-Fri L & D; Sat D. Booking essential. www.alainducasse-dorchester.com. The Dorchester, Park Lane, W1K 1QA. T: 020-7629 8866. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Brasserie Joël This brasserie serves classics such as beef bourguignon. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L & D; daily D. www.brasseriejoel.co.uk. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7272. F8. Station: Waterloo/Westminster.

Brasserie Zédel Bustling French brasserie with a great fixed-price menu. £-££. Daily L & D. www.brasseriezedel.com.

20 Sherwood St, W1F 7ED. T: 020-7734 4888. E7.

Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Céleste Michelin-starred hotel dining room. Try the Atlantic sea bass topped with seaweed crust. £££-££££. Daily B, L & D. www.lanesborough.com.

The Lanesborough, Hyde Park Corner, SW1X 7TA. T: 020-7259 5599. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Clos Maggiore An exquisite dining room shrouded in plants and flowers, with an excellent wine list and dishes such as truffle pappardella. £££. Daily L & D. www.closmaggiore.com. 333 King St, WC2E 8JD. T: 020-7379 9696. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

The Cavendish Upstairs feels more formal, while downstairs is relaxed with brick walls, mirrors and pavement seating. The European menu includes smoked burrata, black pudding Scotch egg and truffle oil flatbread. ££-£££. Daily B, L & D. www.35new cavendish.co.uk. 35 New Cavendish St, W1G 9TR. T: 020-7487 3030. D6. Station: Baker Street.

SushiSamba A fusion of Japanese, Brazilian and Peruvian cuisine, including ceviche and tempura, at this restaurant with stunning city views, open until late. £££. Daily L & D. www.sushisamba.com. 38th Floor, 110 Bishopsgate, EC2N 4AY (and branch).

T: 020-3640 7330. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

The Terrace This hotel restaurant and bar, with tall ceilings and chandeliers, serves salads, burgers, Italian dishes and small plates. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.amba-hotel.com.

Amba Hotel Charing Cross, The Strand, WC2N 5HX. T: 0800-330 8397. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Cicchetti Lively, all-day dining with small plates of regional dishes. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.sancarlocicchetti. co.uk. 30 Wellington St, WC2E 7BD (and branches).

T: 020-7494 9435. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Verdi Italian Kitchen Dine on stone-baked pizzas or afternoon tea in this Victorian music hall. ££. Tue-Sun L & D. www.verdi italian.com. Door 12, Royal Albert Hall, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7070 4401. F4. Station: South Kensington.

JAPANESE Benihana While chefs grill dishes at your table, watch them flip ingredients in their hats, shout and tap their spatulas. £££. Daily L & D. www.benihana. co.uk. 37 Sackville St, W1S 3EH (and branches).

T: 020-7494 2525. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Engawa This Japanese restaurant specialises in sushi. ££££.

Daily L & D. www.engawa.uk. 2 Ham Yard, W1D 7DT. T: 020-7287 5724. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

INDIAN

REVIEW

Amaya This Michelin-starred restaurant has an open kitchen and serves tapas-style dishes. £££. Daily L & D. www.amaya.biz. Halkin Arcade, Lowndes St, SW1X 8JT. T: 020-7823 1166. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.

Benares Michelin-quality Indian dishes. ££££. Mon-Sat L & D; Sun D. www.benaresrestaurant.com.

12a Berkeley Square House, Berkeley Square, W1J 6BS. T: 020-7629 8886. E6. Station: Green Park.

Chutney Mary Enjoy a gourmet tour of India, with traditional dishes served in a modern style. £££. Daily L & D. www.chutneymary.com. 73 St James’s St, SW1 1PH. T: 020-7629 6688. E7. Station: Green Park.

Gaylord This North Indian restaurant, still going strong after 50 years, is renowned for its thalis. ££. Daily L & D. www.gaylordlondon.com. 79-81 Mortimer St, W1W 7SJ. T: 020-7580 3615. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

A vibrant restaurant that serves street food, thalis and regional curries. ££. Daily L & D (and branches). www.masalazone.com. 9 Marshall St, W1F 7ER. T: 020-7287 9966. D8. Station: Oxford Circus.

PROVISIONERS COURTESY OF THE DIXON

Tamarind Try one of the tasting menus in these recently refurbished surroundings. £££. Daily L & D. www.tamarindrestaurant.com. 20 Queen St, W1J 5PR. T: 020-7629 3561. E6. Station: Green Park.

Veeraswamy The UK’s oldest Michelin-starred Indian restaurant has an opulent interior and signature dishes such as Patiala lamb shank. £££. Daily L & D. www.veera swamy.com. Victory House, 99 Regent St, W1B 4RS. T: 020-7734 1401. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

‘‘

See you in court

Dine at Provisioners in The Dixon, a new boutique hotel near Tower Bridge, and you’ll be the judge of its British menu – literally, as it’s in a 1906 magistrates’ court with cells. Start with a drink in the panelled Courtroom Bar, which has photographs of former prisoners. The restaurant is the latest venture from Clive Watson, who’s behind Blixen, Lorne, The Garrison and Riding House Café. It features big windows and abstract prints, coral-coloured chairs and a stripy ceiling. Highlights from head chef Lerrico Messina’s menu are kippers for breakfast, roast cod with samphire and seaweed butter for lunch and duck pie for dinner. We rule in favour, sir.

4 Queen Elizabeth St, SE1 2LL. T: 020-3959 2919. www.provisioners.co.uk

‘‘

Masala Zone

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DINING Nobu London The first European restaurant from the renowned chef Nobu Matsuhisa, serving sushi, sashimi and hot dishes. Booking essential. ££££. Daily L & D. www.noburestaurants.com. 19 Old Park Lane, W1K 1LB (and branches). T: 020-7447 4747. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Sakagura The menu at this izakaya-style Japanese ’pub’ is designed to be shared, so order drinks alongside small plates of authentic dishes. ££. Daily L & D. www.sakaguralondon.com. 8 Heddon St, W1B 4BS. T: 020-3405 7230. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

RIVERSIDE Bateaux London See London’s sights on a river cruise while enjoying modern British cuisine. £££. Daily L & D cruises; Sun L with jazz. www.bateauxlondon.com.

Embankment Pier, WC2N 6NU. T: 020-7695 1800.

E8. Station: Embankment.

The London Showboat Enjoy lunch, afternoon tea or dinner with live jazz. £££-££££. Booking essential. www.citycruises.com.

Westminster Pier, SW1A 2JR. T: 020-7740 0400. F8.

Station: Westminster.

R.S. Hispaniola Moored restaurant boat on the Thames serving British cuisine. Try the seared salmon with lobster mash. £££. Daily L & D. www.hispaniola.co.uk.

Victoria Embankment/Hungerford Bridge, WC2N 5DJ. T: 020-7839 3011. E8. Station: Embankment.

DID YOU KNOW? Rules opened in 1798 and has spanned the reigns of nine monarchs

SPANISH El Pirata This popular Mayfair restaurant has been serving tapas for 25 years, including suckling pig, octopus and ham croquettes. ££-£££. Mon-Fri L & D; Sat D. www.elpirata.co.uk. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AG. T: 020-7491 3810. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Moro

SOUTH EAST ASIAN Chi Kitchen Enjoy pan-Asian cuisine in a huge Debenhams department store and watch the chefs at work in the open kitchen. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.chi kitchen.co.uk. 334-348 Oxford St, W1C 1JG. T: 020-3841 6888. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

The House of Ho Four-storey townhouse serving Vietnamese sharing dishes such as silken tofu with chilli and garlic. ££.

Daily L & D. www.houseofho.co.uk. 1 Percy St, W1T 1DB. T: 020-7323 9130. D7. Station: Goodge Street.

Mango Tree This fine-dining restaurant serves dishes such as barbecue pork and coconut milk soup. £££. Daily L & D. www.mangotree.org.uk. 46 Grosvenor Place, SW1X 7EQ. T: 020-7823 1888. F6. Station: Victoria.

Thai Pot This casual spot offers good-value dishes. £. MonSat L & D. www.thaipot.biz. 1 Bedfordbury, WC2N 4BP. T: 020-7379 4580. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Weekly-changing menu of Moorish dishes, such as wood-roasted chicken, charcoal-grilled brill and yoghurt cake with pistachios. £££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D. www.moro.co.uk. 34-36 Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QE. T: 020-7833 8336. C9. Station: Farringdon.

VEGETARIAN & VEGAN The Gate Gourmet vegan and veggie dishes. ££. Daily L & D; Sat & Sun B. www.thegaterestaurants.com.

22-24 Seymour Place, W1H 7NL (and branches).

T: 020-7724 6656. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

Mildreds Informal Soho institution with hearty, meat-free dishes. ££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.mildreds.co.uk.

45 Lexington St, W1F 9AN (and branches).

T: 020-7494 1634. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Woodlands Huge range of Indian dishes. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.woodlandsrestaurant.co.uk. 77 Marylebone Lane, W1U 2PS (and branches). T: 020-7486 3862.

D6. Station: Bond Street.

Discover an exceptional sushi and sashimi experience in the stunning Leopard Bar, with live Jazz and swing music each evening.

RUBENSHOTEL.COM

RULES COURTESY OF RULES

Tuesday - Saturday: 5pm -12am

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O NE O F T H E M OS T E XC I T I N G N E W RE S TAU R A N T O P E N I N G S I N 2 0 1 9 !

A B E AU T I F U L B R I T I S H R E S TAU R A N T I N T H E H E A RT O F LO N D O N E N J OY A CO M P L I M E N TA RY CO C K TA I L W H E N YO U S H OW T H I S A DV E RT O N A R R I VA L FI N D US : 1 1 ST GI LE S SQUARE , LO N DO N WC2 H 8AP WW W.VI V I RE STAURAN T.CO.UK @VI V I RE STAURAN T

BY T&C : Offer valid until May 31st, 2019. Limited to one cocktail per guest based on a maximum of 6 guests dining.

WHE R E

LOND ON

PR OM OTION

BEST OF LONDON DINING The Cafe in the Courtyard St Martin-in-the-Fields

Take a break from a busy day of sightseeing and enjoy some London sunshine at the Café in the Courtyard. This seasonal outdoor café is located in the terrace just behind the church of St Martin-in-the-Fields, Trafalgar Square. Open daily from 8am (11am on Sundays), the Café in the Courtyard serves a delightful range of hot and cold drinks, pastries, baguettes, paninis, salads and soup throughout the day and in the evening there are scrumptious platters to share and a full wine list. The Café in the Courtyard is open until 9pm until the end of September and 5pm in October before it closes for the season.

El Pirata

Café in the Courtyard, St Martin-in-the-Fields, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1158. www.smitf.org. Station: Charing Cross

For more than 20 years, El Pirata has hit the spot as London’s top restaurant for traditional Spanish tapas. Located in the heart of Mayfair, it’s the perfect place for a true taste of the Mediterranean in a chic yet friendly setting. It’s informal, inexpensive and above all, authentic: the restaurant uses the finest Spanish produce, including jamón Ibérico, to create its classic dishes. Celebrity fans such as Brian May and Johnny Depp, as well as food critics, are unanimous in their praise, describing it as a ‘Spanish gem’ (Zagat) with ‘surprisingly good prices’ (Harden’s), and ‘a favourite with Mayfair’s Spanish community and converts to the new Iberian cause’ (Square Meal ). Mon-Fri noon-11.30pm; Sat 6pm-11.30pm; closed Sun. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AQ. T: 020-7491 3810/020-7409 1315. www.elpirata.co.uk. Station: Hyde Park Corner/Green Park

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NIGHTLIFE The Blackfriar This Grade II-listed Art Nouveau pub, which opened 100 years ago, offers cask ales in an old-world setting. www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk.

174 Queen Victoria St, EC4V 4EG. T: 020-7236 5474. E9. Station: Blackfriars.

Cittie of Yorke The dark nooks and crannies, rafted roof and chimney-less fire in this Grade II-listed building take you back to 1430. Enjoy a pint of beer in this atmospheric pub for a real taste of historic London.

22 High Holborn, WC1V 6BN. T: 020-7242 7670.

D9. Station: Chancery Lane.

The Dog and Duck A traditional real-ale pub with regularly changing cask beers as well as a great range of pub food and bar snacks. www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk.

18 Bateman St, W1D 3AJ. T: 020-7494 0697.

D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Waxy O’Connor’s

Cartizze Bar

This popular Irish bar has four bars split over six levels. It has pub food, regular live music and also screens Ireland’s major sporting events. www.waxy oconnors.co.uk. 14-16 Rupert St, W1D 6DD. T: 0207287 0255. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

A timeless destination for Bellinis and cocktails. It has an Art Deco interior and oysters on the menu. www.cartizzebar.com. 4 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Waxy’s Little Sister This smaller, slightly quieter sister venue to Waxy O’Connor’s serves traditional Irish beers and whiskies, plus a range of bar food. www.waxy oconnors.co.uk. 20 Wardour St, W1D 6QG. T: 020-7287 0255. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese

BARS & CLUBS

Fitz’s

68 and Boston

The French House

The Back Room

The George Inn This tucked-away, historic pub was established during the medieval period and still retains its original coaching houses. www.nationaltrust.org. uk/george-inn. 75-77 Borough High St, SE1 1NH. T: 020-7407 2056. E10. Station: London Bridge.

The Glasshouse Stores This is a comforting old Sam Smith’s pub, serving its own ales, with wood-panelled walls and etched glass. There are plenty of nooks and crannies in which to hide away, making it a romantic spot.

Try your hand at bar billiards. 55 Brewer St, W1F 9UJ. T: 020-7287 5278. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Guinea The site of an inn since 1423, this friendly venue has great Young’s ales and bar food. www.theguinea. co.uk. 30 Bruton Place, W1J 6NL. T: 020-7409 1728.

E6. Station: Bond Street/Oxford Circus.

The Magpie & Stump Opposite the Old Bailey, this atmospheric pub dates back to the 1500s and once doubled up as a public viewing spot for hangings at Newgate Prison. It has old fireplaces, worn rugs and brick walls. It is closed at weekends. www.magpieand stump.com. 18 Old Bailey, EC4M 7EP. T: 020-7248 5085. D9. Station: St Paul’s.

Dukes Bar This outstanding bar is renowned for its superior Martinis. Oozing old-world charm, its lounge area is a luxurious space. www.dukeshotel.com. Dukes London, 35 St James’s Place, SW1A 1NY. T: 0207491 4840. E7. Station: Green Park.

This 17th-century pub in a pretty location is a real step back in time. It is allegedly haunted. www.the flaskhighgate.com. 77 Highgate West Hill, N6 6BU. T: 020-8348 7346. Off map. Station: Highgate.

Creative, boho types love this quirky, cosy pub in the heart of Soho: there is no music and mobile phones are discouraged. Excellent Champagnes and wines by the glass. Lunch menu Mon-Fri. www.frenchhousesoho.com. 49 Dean St, W1D 5BG. T: 020-7437 2477. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

This impressive bar, beside the roof terrace of the ‘Walkie Talkie’ building, has amazing views, a garden and free entry. www.skygarden.london.

Sky Garden, 20 Fenchurch St, EC3M 8AF. T: 0333-772 0020. E11. Station: Monument.

This Grade II-listed pub was built soon after the Great Fire of 1666 and has vaults that are even older. 145 Fleet St, EC4A 2BU. T: 020-7353 6170.

D9. Station: Blackfriars.

Sophisticated venue with separate cocktail and wine bars. There are wines from unusual destinations including Uruguay, with bottles from just £20. There’s also a nightly food menu. www.68andboston.com. 5 Greek St, W1D 4DD. T: 020-7287 3713. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

The Flask

City Garden Bar

Located next to the Hard Rock Cafe, this fun bar displays vintage and iconic music items. Enjoy cocktails, pizzas and burgers, plus the great vibe. www.hardrock.com. 148b Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 020-7514 1700. E6. Station: Green Park.

Booking Office Bar The ground floor of the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel has a 29m-long bar surrounded by cavernous arched ceilings and stone walls dating back to 1873. www.bookingofficebar.com. Euston Rd, NW1 2AR. T: 020-7841 3566. C7. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

This bar is as classic as it gets – think velvet shellshaped sofas and wooden panelling decorated with paintings. Great for a date. www.ihg.com.

Kimpton Fitzroy London, 1-8 Russell Square, WC1B 5BE. T: 020-3797 7282. C8. Station: Russell Square.

Freedom This long-standing gay-friendly venue attracts a trendy crowd to its stylish cocktail bar and the nightclub below. www.freedombarsoho.com.

60-66 Wardour St, W1F 0TA. T: 020-7734 0071.

D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

GONG Bar On level 52 of the Shangri-La Hotel inside The Shard, this is one of London’s highest Champagne bars, ideal for sunset cocktails with jaw-dropping views. Reservations recommended. www.the-shard.com. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8000. F10. Station: London Bridge.

Gordon’s Wine Bar

Rum is the spirit of choice in this relaxed, Cuban-style bar. www.burlocklondon.co.uk. 31 Duke St, W1U 1LG. T: 020-7935 3303. D6. Station: Bond Street.

London’s oldest wine bar has been uncorking bottles since 1890 in its candlelit, stonearched basement. Get there early to grab a table. www.gordonswinebar.com. 47 Villiers St, WC2N 6NE. T: 020-7930 1408. E8. Station: Embankment.

BYOC

Jack Solomons Club

Burlock

At ‘Bring Your Own Cocktail’ pay £25, bring a spirit of your choice and the mixologist will create cocktails. www.byoc.co.uk. 9-11 Basement, Camden High St, NW1 7JE (and branches). T: 020-3441 2424.

Off map. Station: Mornington Crescent.

DID YOU KNOW? GONG Bar, located on level 52 of The Shard, is the highest hotel bar in Western Europe

Ring a bell in a kiosk in Soho and you’ll be granted access to this underground bar-club that’s inspired by a boxer. www.jacksolomons.com. 41 Great Windmill St, W1D 7NB. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

L’escale Wine Bar Sample a range of wines from around the world in this intimate venue. www.traderswine.co.uk. Ivory House, Central Basin, St Katharine Docks, E1W 1AT. T: 020-7481 3796. Off map. Station: Tower Hill.

Mews Cocktail Bar Leather sofas and an 18th-century chandelier set the tone for this exclusive cocktail bar, which is home to exquisite wines and fresh fruit cocktails. www.mewsofmayfair.com. 10 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Most bars open 11am-11pm, most nightclubs open 10pm-3am. The UK’s legal drinking age is 18. ID may be required. T: Telephone number.

Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, Railway and Docklands Light Railway. References (B5 etc.) are coordinates for the map p. 72-73

GONG BAR COURTESY OF SHANGRI-LA HOTEL

TRADITIONAL PUBS

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NIGHTLIFE

Tattershall Castle

‘ Sir Peter Blake has illustrated the floating bar with hearts, stars and stripes’

TATTERSHALL CASTLE © RICHARD BAKER

W

hy drink on a riverbank when you can drink on the water? Now the sun’s out, hop aboard a floating bar.

Tattershall Castle is the obvious place to start, as the former passenger ferry has been docked on the River Thames at Embankment since 1975. With views of Big Ben by day and the Coca-Cola London Eye illuminated at night, it’s an all-day drinking spot. Sip on Verdejo Macabeo Corrida, with notes of apple and melon. The venue has jazz (3 May) and comedy on Tuesdays, Fridays and Saturdays; book ahead (www.thetattershallcastle.co.uk).

Barge East, meanwhile, is a 115-year-old Dutch barge moored on the River Lea, alongside the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park

and within walking distance of the London Stadium. Lit by fairylights, it has outdoor seats.

Co-founder Stuart ‘Tommo’ Thomson says: ‘We’re proud to stock products made in east London that give visitors a fantastic taste of the city on their travels. We are situated in an interesting area, Hackney Wick, with street art and the Olympic Park as our neighbour.’

With its convivial shared tables, there’s a community feel, especially as it was set up by three childhood friends. Try a pint of Redchurch Bethnal Pale Ale, or throw caution to the wind and ask for Sex with the Captain, made with spiced rum (www.bargeeast.com).

The Grand Union Canal, which ends in Paddington Basin, is home to Darcie & May

Green, a narrowboat that was made from two canalboats which were used to transport the public around the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park during the 2012 Olympics.

Sir Peter Blake – the man behind The Beatles’ Sgt Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band album cover – has illustrated the floating restaurant and bar with hearts, stars and stripes.

Darcie & May Green’s founder, Prue Freeman, says: ‘Peter Blake’s iconic primary colour palette and bold shapes are visually amazing and a great reflection of our company’s personality. It’s hard to walk past Darcie & May’s artwork without a smile on your face’ (www.daisygreenfood.com).

SARAH RICHES Nightlife Editor

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NIGHTLIFE

‘‘

Night owls

REVIEW

If you want to combine dim sum with drinks, then visit Covent Garden’s latest cocktail bar, Toots & Hoots.

The compact space is above RedFarm, the first London branch of the dim sum restaurant that’s popular with celebrities in Manhattan. Beverage director Shawn Chen makes syrups and infusions each day. Order classics with an Asian twist, such as Wing Clapper – tequila mixed with ginger, grapefruit and lime – alongside vegetable or pastrami spring rolls, or shrimp-stuffed shishito peppers. The interior has black leather banquettes and owl photographs on the walls, which is where the name comes from.

9 Russell St, WC2B 5HZ. T: 020-3883 9093. www.redfarmldn.com

‘‘

Trader Vic’s

Enjoy Prohibition-era cocktails at this stylish basement bar, with live music most nights. The elaborate cocktails are amazing.

Please check website for programme. www.bar nightjar.com. 129 City Rd, EC1V 1JB. T: 020-7253 4101. C10. Station: Old Street.

This tiki-style basement bar and restaurant is more than 50 years old. Try the Mai Tai cocktail in an exotic setting. www.tradervicslondon.com. London Hilton on Park Lane, 22 Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208 4113. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Opium Cocktail Bar

The whisky shop and bar Milroy’s has tables made of barrels, while The Vault, behind the bookcase, is a hidden bar. www.thevaultsoho.co.uk. 3 Greek St, W1D 4NX. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Tucked away in Chinatown, this is a warren of rooms styled like a 1920s Shanghai bar, serving eccentric cocktails and upscale bar bites including dim sum. Reservations recommended. www.opium chinatown.com. 15 Gerrard St, W1D 6JE. T: 0207734 7276. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Scarfes Bar This elegant hotel bar is named after the satirical British cartoonist Gerald Scarfe, who created the caricatures lining the walls. Wonderful cocktails. www.scarfesbar.com. Rosewood London hotel, 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8611.

D8. Station: Holborn.

St Pancras Champagne Bar

The Vault

The Zetter Townhouse Enjoy Tony Conigliaro’s groundbreaking cocktails in a lounge with eccentric decor and a cosy fireplace.

The bar is part of a hotel of the same name. www.the zettertownhouse.com. 49-50 St John’s Square, EC1V 4JJ. T: 020-7324 4545. C9. Station: Farringdon.

CASINOS The Casino at the Empire This spectacular West End venue also has a restaurant and several bars, plus a dedicated poker room. www.thecasinolsq.com. 5-6 Leicester Square, WC2H 7NA. T: 020-3733 1315. E7.

Station: Leicester Square.

Europe’s longest Champagne bar is on the Paris Eurostar concourse. Enjoy bubbly and seafood platters, with heated leather banquettes. www.stpancrasbysearcys.co.uk.

St Pancras International, Upper Concourse, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: Julie Andrews made King’s Cross St Pancras.

DID YOU KNOW?

Social 24

her solo debut at the Hippodrome Casino in 1947

Smart bar next to Jason Atherton’s restaurant with an Art Deco interior, Prohibition-inspired cocktails and fantastic views. There’s a great food menu, too. www.citysociallondon.com. Tower 42, 25 Old Broad St, EC2N 1HQ. T: 020-7877 7703. D11.

Station: Liverpool Street.

Hippodrome Casino Casino with gaming on three floors, plus a restaurant. www.hippodrome casino.com. Cranbourn St, WC2H 7JH. T: 020-7769 8888. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

The Sportsman Casino

Traditional and electronic gaming, including three-card poker and American roulette. Enjoy a poker lounge and sports bar, too. www.thesportsmancasino.com. Old Quebec St, W1H 7AF. T: 020-3051 4616. D6.

Station: Marble Arch.

LIVE ENTERTAINMENT 606 Club A relaxed members’ jazz cellar and restaurant, specialising in British-based artists, playing blues, r’n’b and soul. The food is great, too. www.606club. co.uk. 90 Lots Rd, SW10 0QD. T: 020-7352 5953.

Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.

The Blues Kitchen This busy music venue stages blues, soul and jazz music most nights, plus a DJ at weekends. www.theblueskitchen.com. 111 Camden High St, NW1 7JN (and branches). T: 020-7387 5277.

Off map. Station: Camden Town.

Bunga Bunga A crazy club with a boat on the dancefloor. www.bungabunga-london.com. 167 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PG (and Battersea branch). T: 020-7590 3602. D8. Station: Covent Garden/Holborn.

The Comedy Store One of the country’s best and most famous venues for stand-up and improvised comedy, plus regular late-night stand-up events. www.thecomedystore. co.uk. 1a Oxendon St, SW1Y 4EE. T: 0844-871 7699.

E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Ronnie Scott’s The famous jazz venue has hosted top musicians for more than 50 years including Prince, Miles Davis and Ella Fitzgerald. The weekly Sunday Jazz lunch has no minimum age. www.ronniescotts. co.uk. 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7.

Station: Tottenham Court Road/Leicester Square.

Stringfellows Open since 1980, this club was established by the late Peter Stringfellow and is one of the world’s best-known gentlemen’s clubs. Free entry when dining. www.stringfellows.co.uk. 16-19 Upper St Martin’s Lane, WC2H 9EF. T: 020-7240 5534. E8.

Station: Leicester Square.

TOOTS & HOOTS COURTESY OF REDFARM

Nightjar

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QMS Medicosmetics Collagen Classic set

WELLNESS Elemis

‘The personalised treatment aims to give you firmer and smoother skin’

W

hen you say the words anti-ageing, the first thing people think of is plastic surgery. But now that needn’t be the case as there are plenty of places, from department stores to Harley Street, which offer non-invasive treatments.

Liberty (p. 52), an iconic department store in a mock Tudor building, is always exciting to visit. Escape the bustle of nearby Oxford Street and enter QMS Medicosmetics’ new treatment room.

Loved by beauty therapists, the brand has created four new facials. The O2 Collagen Rejuvenation Treatment uses pure oxygen to encourage the brand’s signature collagen into the skin. Lasting 50 or 80 minutes, the personalised treatment aims to give you firmer and smoother skin.

Rowan Hall-Farrise, head facialist at QMS Medicosmetics, says: ‘Our comprehensive facial menu and products make visible progress within the skin a realistic promise

for clients; and now without the need to travel to a destination spa.’

Elemis is a leader in skincare, so it’s no surprise to find that its menu has a section on anti-ageing. Before you begin, use the face scanner that spots sun damage and fine lines. While Elemis offers traditional massages, from the pro-collagen age defy facial to the pro-definition lift, if you want to try the latest technology, choose the BIOTEC Line Eraser or BIOTEC Firm-a-Lift. Both use microcurrent pulses, which act as a massage to relax your face – this then stimulates and tightens the skin. Microcurrents, when used regularly, can be an alternative to injectables.

The opulence of Rosewood London’s Sense Spa meanwhile is apparent from the moment you arrive, from the original carriageway entrance to the grand paonazzo marble staircase. Sense Spa is just as polished.

The hotel is the only place outside of North America which is home to Face Place.

Rosewood London

In Los Angeles, getting a facial is like going for a dental check-up, and here at Rosewood London there is a clinical approach to your skin. The Signature Treatment applies galvanic currents and vitamin C into your skin.

Hot towels are used to create a sauna-like experience and open up your pores. As for the pain, minor electric shocks tighten the skin and the extraction process, which unclogs your pores, feels like a form of spot-squeezing.

The Wellness Clinic, which opened last year in Knightsbridge store Harrods (p. 52), employs leading doctors and dermatologists. Dr Costas Papageorgiou from New York Dermatology Group has lots of treatments, ranging from injectables to less invasive options. The Oxygen Infusion Facial, for example, delivers a cocktail of vitamins to your face. So even if you feel your age, you thankfully won’t look it.

KOHINOOR SAHOTA Wellness Editor

COLLAGEN PRODUCTS AND LIBERTY IMAGES COURTESY OF LIBERTY; ELEMIS COURTESY OF ELEMIS; ROSEWOOD LONDON COURTESY OF ROSEWOOD LONDON

Liberty

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This three-storey salon offers cuts, colours, blowdries and botanical treatments using Aveda’s plant-based products. The Express Beauty Bar has a range of treatments lasting for 15 or 30 minutes. www.avedainstitute.co.uk. 174 High Holborn, WC1V 7AA. T: 020-7759 7355. D8. Station: Holborn.

An oasis of calm in the West End, boasting a premium selection of treatments and a 24-hour gym. Luxury treatments include a Gold AgeDefying Facial and Carat Diamond Face and Body Ritual, while there are also treatments for two.

Brands used include Forte Organics and Spiezia Organics. www.brownshotel.com. Albemarle St, W1S 4BP. T: 020-7518 4009. E7. Station: Green Park.

Bamford Haybarn Spa

The Spa at Dolphin Square

First opened in the Cotswolds and loved by celebrities, this is the spa’s city branch. Treatments take a holistic approach to wellbeing, using botanical products. There is also a rooftop pool. www.the-berkeley.co.uk. The Berkeley hotel, Wilton Place, SW1X 7RL (and branch). T: 020-7201 1699. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.

Body Relaxation High-quality, deep-tissue massage in your hotel room, apartment or the Sloane Street studio.

Open until late. T: 07906-029577.

Chuan Spa Step inside this luxury spa, which uses the principles of Chinese medicine to rebalance your mind, body and spirit. There is a VIP suite for couples. www.chuanspa.com. The Langham, 1c Portland Place, Regent St, W1B 1JA. T: 0207973 7550. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Elemis Day Spa Situated in Mayfair, the spa specialises in facials that tackle ageing, pigmentation and blemishes.

The Penthouse is a private suite that you can share with a guest: upgrade your experience with a bottle of Champagne. The Speed Spa offers treatments in 30 minutes. www.elemis.com/ dayspa. 2 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EX. T: 020-7499 4995. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Mandara Spa Spa with a contemporary edge and a luxurious Asian touch. The decor features a bamboo forest, Mondrian paintings and Japanese shoji screens.

Signature treatments include the warm bamboo massage. There is a double treatment room, fitness centre and swimming pool. www.mandaraspa.com.

Park Plaza, 200 Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7300. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Mandarin Oriental Fresh from a refurbishment, this luxury spa is inspired by Chinese treatments. The menu offers scrubs, massages and facials. www.mandarin oriental.com. 66 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LA. T: 020-7235 2000. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

One Aldwych This spa offers a range of treatments including massages, manicures and waxing. Brands used are Natura Bissé and Oskia. The health club is excellent, while the pool is chlorine-free and has underwater music. www.onealdwych.com.

One Aldwych, WC2B 4BZ. T: 020-7300 0600.

D8. Station: Covent Garden.

The Refinery

Total relaxation, revitalising massage.

Please call to book an appointment at your hotel, home or our studio on:

Moroccan-inspired luxury. Signature massages include the Moroccan Majorelle and Arabian Ceremony. Treatments can be combined with a hammam. There is also a menu for bridal and hen parties. www.dolphinsquare.co.uk/spa.

Chichester St, SW1V 3LX. T: 020-7798 6767.

Off map. Station: Pimlico.

07879 697478

Spa Illuminata Enjoy this holistic skin and body-care haven.

The menu includes facials, massages and a men’s menu. Anti-ageing treatments include anti-wrinkle injections and skin peels. Recently voted the Best Day Spa in London by Condé Nast. www.spa illuminata.com. 63 South Audley St, W1K 2QS. T: 020-7499 7777. E6. Station: Marble Arch.

Ushvani This plush spa in Chelsea has won many awards.

Its philosophy is based on ancient Asian culture and takes a holistic approach to pampering.

Treatments include the Malay and Balinese massage, which incorporates natural herbs, spices and flowers. Look out for yoga classes. www.ushvani.com. 1 Cadogan Gardens, SW3 2RJ. T: 020-7730 2888. G5. Station: Sloane Square.

Late appointments available

SALONS Gentlemen’s Tonic This is a stylish, men-only grooming establishment with a barbershop, body and hair treatments and a full range of products. www.gentlemenstonic.com.

31a Bruton Place, W1J 6NN. T: 020-7297 4343. E6.

Station: Bond Street.

INSPIRING LONDON’S VISITORS

Geo F Trumper A traditional barbershop in Mayfair, which offers wet shaves, manicures and haircuts for an elegant result. www.trumpers.com. 9 Curzon St, W1J 5HQ. T: 020-7499 1850. E6. Station: Green Park.

SIGHTS • ARTS • SHOPPING • EATING • ENTERTAINMENT • MAPS

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A GREAT BRITISH DISH Meet the chefs reinventing our cuisine

CHINESE EDITION

Hershesons At this trendy hairdressers, you can choose your favourite fashion-forward look from a menu and a stylist will create it. www.hershesons.com.

Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB (and branches).

T: 020-7493 1600. E6. Station: Bond Street.

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Jo Hansford This hair salon, which is home to top stylists, is renowned for its colour correction work. The salon also has an in-house chef. www.johansford.com.

48 South Audley St, W1K 2QB. T: 020-7495 7774.

E6. Station: Marble Arch.

Windle & Moodie

PLAN

Award-winning hair salon specialising in catwalk looks for women. The 20-minute Speed Styling service offers styles from updos to braids.

The salon uses Bumble & Bumble products. www.windleandmoodie.com. 41-45 Shorts Gardens, WC2H 9AP. T: 020-7497 2393. D8.

Station: Covent Garden.

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LONDON LONDON THE FREE OFFICIAL MONTHLY GUIDE • NOVEMBER 2017

WINTER IS HERE!

Ice skating, cosy pubs and Thanksgiving feasts LIGHTING UP THE SKY

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Men-only spa with treatments ranging from sports massages to traditional shaves. If you want to master a wet shave, you can book a shaving lesson. Also at Harrods. www.the-refinery.com.

60 Brook St, W1K 5DU (and branch). T: 020-7409 2001. E6. Station: Bond Street.

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ELEMIS COURTESY OF ELEMIS; ROSEWOOD LONDON COURTESY OF ROSEWOOD LONDON

WELLNESS

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T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Most spas are open seven days a week, but check for opening hours. References at the end of listings (B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on map p. 72-73

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ESSENTIALS

TICKET INFORMATION Oyster cards & Travelcards An Oyster card is a pre-paid travel smart card.

It’s a cheap way to pay for single journeys by bus, Tube, tram, DLR, London Overground and most National Rail train services in London.

You can buy a Visitor Oyster card before you leave home for a £5 fee and pre-load it with credit at www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk. The system has nine zones. Zone 1 is in central London.

Visitors can buy Oyster cards and Day Travelcards from stations, Visitor Centres and any Oyster Ticket Shop. UK visitors can also pay for their travel with a UK-issued contactless payment card. See www.tfl.gov.uk/visitinglondon.

An Oyster card also gives you a 25 per cent discount on London’s cable car, the Emirates Air Line, and a 10 per cent discount on single journeys on most MBNA Thames Clippers river buses.

For more info, visit www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk.

GETTING AROUND For 24-hour travel information, visit the Transport for London (TfL) website. www.tfl.gov.uk/ visitinglondon or call T: 0343-222 1234.

London Underground (The Tube) www.tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground map (above). Services run Mon-Sat 5am-12.30am and Sun 7.30am-11.30pm on most routes. The Night

Tube service runs Fri-Sat on the Central, Jubilee, Northern (via Embankment), Piccadilly and Victoria lines. Fares vary; a Zone 1 adult fare costs £4.90 (£2.40 with an Oyster card).

London Buses London buses run 5am-12.30am. Night buses (midnight-4.30am) operate on main routes (several services are 24-hour). You can’t pay for a bus fare with cash, so use a Visitor Oyster card, Oyster card, Travelcard or a UK-issued contactless payment card. A single fare is £1.50 with an Oyster card or a UK-issued contactless payment card. You can make unlimited bus and tram journeys for free within one hour of first touching in. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/buses.

London Overground www.tfl.gov.uk. Trains run Mon-Sat 5am-midnight; Sun 7am-11.30pm on most routes.

Please check for 24-hour services at weekends.

Docklands Light Railway Trains run approximately every three-anda-half minutes to 10 minutes. Mon-Sat 5.30am12.30am; Sun 7am-11pm. T: 0345-222 1234.

Trains Paddington serves the West Country, Wales and the South Midlands.

Liverpool Street and Fenchurch Street serve East Anglia and Essex.

Euston King’s Cross St Pancras Marylebone and St Pancras King’s Cross International (connects to St Pancras) serve north and central Britain, Charing Cross and south east England.

London Bridge Waterloo Victoria serve southern England. and For times and tickets, visit www.nationalrail. co.uk or call T: 0345-748 4950.

St Pancras International.

Eurostar uses Visit www.eurostar.com for more information, times and ticket prices. Call T: 0344-822 4777 (from outside the UK, T: 03432-186 186).

Accessible London Get information for deaf and disabled travellers, including step-free journeys on the Tube, bus and river services at www.visitlondon.com/access and www.openbritain.net.

Taxis You can hail a black cab (taxi) in the street. Fares increase after 8pm. You cannot hail private-hire or minicabs, which you must book. We advise against using any vehicle that approaches you in the street, except for licensed black cabs. www.tfl.gov.uk.

Congestion Charge There is a charge to drive in central London, MonFri 7am-6pm. Pay in advance or on the day (£11.50), or after (£14). UK: T: 0343-222 2222. International: T: +44 343-222 2222. www.cclondon.com.

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South Bank

Ask the

CONCIERGE Binoy Nair

Head concierge at St James’ Court Alice in Wonderland afternoon tea

Hop-on, hop-off bus tour

What’s the most popular request?

Share a hidden gem.

Hop-on, hop-off tours and combination tours outside London.

Get on a hop-on, hop-off bus and do a complete route while on the bus. Once you have seen everything and listened to the live commentary, visit the sites you would like to spend more time at.

Chelsea Physic Garden feels special and secret as it’s nestled behind walls.

The location is no accident – The Worshipful Society of Apothecaries chose the site in 1673 for its proximity to the river, to make the most of its warm air currents. The unique microclimate has allowed plants not frequently found in the UK to grow, including the UK’s largest fruiting olive tree.

Any family-friendly ideas?

Any suggestions outside of London?

Toddlers can feed birds and have a picnic in St James’s Park, while teenagers can visit the Science Museum, London Dungeon, Natural History Museum or go rollerblading on the South Bank. Camden Town and Portobello Market are popular as you can buy eclectic garments and try global dishes.

Explore the Cotswolds’ countryside and picturesque villages.

Any romantic ideas?

Why is your hotel special?

Enjoy the Champagne Experience on the Coca-Cola London Eye and have dinner at Clos Maggiore in Covent Garden or up The Shard. Our guests can also have a picnic with Champagne in St James’s Park.

Our Kona restaurant serves an Alice in Wonderland-themed afternoon tea. It features pastries such as Queen of Hearts mango tarts and a ‘Drink Me’ strawberry potion. We have also opened Jiva Spa.

How can you see London in a day?

Cotswolds

Car hire

On foot

Make sure your driving licence is valid for the UK and see ‘Congestion Charge’ (p. 70). Hertz: T: 0870-844 8844. www.hertz.co.uk. Kendall Cars Ltd: T: 0800-770 007. www.kendallcars.com.

Enterprise Rent-A-Car: T: 0800-800 227. www.enterprise.co.uk. Miles & Miles: T: 0207591 0555. www.milesandmiles.co.uk.

It’s often quicker to get around London on foot.

Look out for blue and yellow Legible London street maps. www.tfl.gov.uk/legiblelondon.

BINOY NAIR COURTESY OF ST JAMES’ COURT; AFTERNOON TEA © JACK HARDY; BUS TOUR © RICHARD BAKER; ALL OTHER IMAGES © ISTOCK

River services www.tfl.gov.uk/river MBNA Thames Clippers: www.mbnathames clippers.com. MBNA Thames Clippers River Bus serves 22 piers, with departures every 20 minutes.

Adult prices start from £4.80. River Roamer ticket (unlimited hop-on/hop-off all day from 9am).

Adult £19.80, child £9.90; family (two adults, up to three children) £39.60, children under five travel free. Discounts available on MBNA Thames Clippers with a TfL Travelcard, Oyster, via the app or online.

Emirates Air Line cable car London’s only cable car runs across the River Thames between Greenwich Peninsula (The O2) and the Royal Docks (ExCeL London). You can board from the North Greenwich or Royal Victoria sides of the river (return flights are available).

Buy a combined ticket with MBNA Thames Clippers and London Transport Museum. www.tfl.gov.uk/emiratesairline.

A quintessentially English experience?

It has to be cricket. Lord’s is the ideal venue to watch a Test match while sipping a drink in one of its bars or restaurants.

Santander Cycles There are 11,500 bikes for hire from 750 docking stations throughout central London. £2 to hire a bike for 24 hours and the first 30 mins of each journey are free. There’s no need to book, but you need a debit or credit card to hire a bike.

Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/santandercycles or call T: 0343-222 6666.

Coaches London’s main coach services use Victoria Coach Station, a central hub that offers travel to destinations around the UK and some parts of Europe, such as France and the Netherlands.

SW1W 9TP. T: 0343-222 1234. www.tfl.gov.uk/ Victoria. D4. coaches

DELIVERY Mail Boxes Etc. Worldwide parcel delivery, courier and postal services. There are 1,600 stores worldwide and more than 150 stores in the UK and Ireland.

Mail Boxes provides trained, certified packers.

There is also a digital printing and copy service.

T: 01608-649230. www.mbe.co.uk/london.

24-hour Tube lines

The service runs on Fridays and Saturdays on the following lines.

• Jubilee line: Across the entire line • Victoria line: Across the entire line • Northern line: Between Morden and Camden Town and between Camden Town and High Barnet/Edgware • Piccadilly line: Between Cockfosters and Heathrow Terminal 5 • Central line: Between White City and Leytonstone; between Ealing Broadway and White City; and between Leytonstone and Loughton/Hainault www.wheretraveler.com 71

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ROSE MCGOWAN

Rose McGowan is an actor and activist.

She was born in Florence, lived in Los Angeles and has now moved to London. Her autobiography, Brave, explores feminism and she is speaking at the Southbank Centre on 4 May, as part of her UK book tour

Which London buildings do you like?

I like the Tate Modern a lot. I like Brutalist architecture, such as the Southbank Centre – where I’m giving a talk.

Liberty Regent’s Park

Where do you like to shop?

I love Broadway Market in Hackney.

They have some cool vintage clothing stores there. I like Liberty, too – it’s extremely expensive, but beautiful.

Which green spaces do you like?

I love Regent’s Park and the top of Primrose Hill – which was featured in the Disney film 101 Dalmations. It was set where it looks over the rest of London.

Southbank Centre

Is there a place in London that holds a special memory for you?

I like the canals. I’ve had some good walks at night by the canal.

Where do you like to drink?

Chiltern Firehouse is owned by the same people who own a place I used to go to in Los Angeles. We gravitate towards familiar things when we’re in different places.

What kind of entertainment do you like?

I saw the British comedian Adam Kay give a talk recently about his book, This is Going to Hurt. That was a great night out. I saw some opera here recently and that was good, too.

Where do you like to eat out?

Lemonia in Primrose Hill; it serves Greek food.

Tell us about your book, Brave.

I’m very proud of how I have crafted this book – it’s written in an unusual way.

I break the fourth wall: I speak to the reader then I go back into my story. I criss-cross between autobiography and manifesto – I felt my brain grew a terabyte while writing it. The tour of the book is going to be great.

Why should readers come to see you on your Brave tour?

I want people to come to the Brave tour because it will be a way of continuing the conversation. What I wanted when I set out with all of this was just to have a conversation with the rest of the world.

I think that’s the way to do it. I guarantee that it will be a really interesting evening.

It won’t be boring, that’s for sure.

Do you have a favourite hotel here in London?

I like the Covent Garden Hotel on Monmouth Street.

What makes London stand out from the rest of the world?

Intellect. I find it more intellectually stimulating than other places I’ve visited.

People read a lot here. I like that.

4 May. Queen Elizabeth Hall, Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-3879 9555. www.southbankcentre.co.uk

ROSE MCGOWAN © CLAIRE ROTHSTEIN; CHILTERN FIREHOUSE COURTESY OF CHILTERN FIREHOUSE; SOUTHBANK CENTRE © MORLEY VON STERNBERG; ALL OTHER IMAGES © ISTOCK

Tate Modern

How do you prefer to travel around?

I like the Tube; I’m learning it and it’s going well. It’s easier than the subway in New York.

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