Where Magazine Paris Dec 2018

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PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE

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The Holidays Sparkle in the City of Light FA SHION • ARTS & AT TR AC TIONS • DINING • ENTERTAINMENT • M APS

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PARIS | CONTENTS

The guide

10

Hot Dates

This month’s calendar of must-see events

22 SHOPPING

14

Celebrating with Champagne

The latest trends and the hottest fashions

20

Toast the holidays with France’s favourite champagnes

54 ARTS & ATTRACTIONS

This month’s round-up of exhibitions and attractions

Bûche Bites

Take a bite out of the most original and mouthwatering Christmas treats offered by the city’s most talented pastry chefs

70 DINING

Our selection of the month’s finest restaurants 82 ENTERTAINMENT

This month’s best events and shows 94 SERVICES

Your guide to getting around the city with maps and transport listings DE C E MBE R 2 0 18 Issue N o 299

PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE ®

The Holidays Sparkle in the City of Light

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6 W H E R E PA R I S I D E C E M B E R 2018

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The halls have been decked and the mistletoe has been hung for

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everyone’s favourite holiday season. To celebrate this magical time of

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Meanwhile, in our Celebrating with Champagne feature we walk you

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through the finest Champagne houses and bring you the best spots in

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8 W HE R E PA R I S I D E C E M B E R 2018

December

HOT DATES What to do in Paris this month

A Magical Festival FROM DECEMBER 26 From Boxing Day through to the 6th of January, the MusĂŠe des Arts Forains invites you to celebrate the Festival du Merveilleux. Open daily from 10am to 6pm everyday, you can enter the magical setting of the museum where dancers, performers and musicians are waiting to marvel the audience with their talents.

The impromptu performances take place every 30 minutes and even spill out into the charming streets of Bercy.

53 ave des Terroirs de France (12th), 01 43 40 16 22 10 W HE RE PA R I S I D E C E M MBBEERR 2018 2018

Manège des Vélocipèdes Musée des Arts Forains © Sebastien Siraudeau; State of Consciousness, 2018. Pigment print. © David LaChapelle. Courtesy Templon (Paris, Brussels); La La Land DR; Confetti © iStockphoto 2018; Grand Palais des Glaces Crédit : Didier Lefevre – Groupe Luderic; An Illuminating Path, 1998. Avec l’aimable autorisation de l’artiste © David LaChapelle

PARIS THIS MONTH

Escape to La La Land DECEMBER 29 AND 30 Fall in love all over again with the award-winning La La Land at La Seine Musicale where the movie is being played out with live music courtesy of over 70 musicians. The Ciné-Concert event sees the musicians play the movie’s music, soundtracking the movie live, under the direction of the film’s composer, Justin Hurwitz. Showing in English with French subtitles.

La Seine Musicale Ile Seguin, 92100 Boulogne-Billancourt, 01 74 34 54 00

A Colourful World THROUGH TO DECEMBER 29 Discover the colourful take on and a reflection of our times at the Galerie Templon through the works of David LaChapelle. The Letter to the World show brings together the artist’s iconic pieces as well as new work that cover two themes, from destruction to utopia, and from excess to redemption.

28 rue du Grenier Saint-Lazare (3rd), 01 85 76 55 55

Skating Around ALL MONTH Skate into the holidays under the famous glass roof of the Grand Palais and show off your best moves on ice.

3 ave du Général Eisenhower (8th)

The King of Pop ALL MONTH The King of Pop is being celebrated at the Grand Palais courtesy of a new exhibition. Michael Jackson: On the Wall is running through to the 17th of February and it explores the celebrated artist’s impact on contemporary art. The show will bring together the works of over 40 artists who have drawn inspiration from the singer, from his image to his musical talents. Pieces on show include works

by Paul McCarthy, Faith Ringgold and Andy Warhol, who used Michael Jackson’s image back in 1982.

3 ave du Général Eisenhower (8th) w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 11

PARIS THIS MONTH

Trades Shows & Arts Fair DECEMBER 1-2 GALERISTES This art fair, being held for the third time, is organised by art collectors for art collectors and offers a venue for encounters between gallery owners and art lovers. The show brings together several dozen galleries who conceive their own exhibition space. The show is open from 1pm to 7pm. www.galeristes.fr Le Carreau du Temple, 4 rue Eugène Spuller (3rd)

ALL MONTH The Jardin des Plantes de Paris is welcoming a fantastical show, bringing extinct and endangered animals to life thanks to the China Light Festival illuminated installations. The Espèces en Voie d’Illumination is the first light festival at the Jardin des Plantes de Paris and promises to be a wonderful walk in the park with the animals all lit up all through the garden, guiding visitors from 6 to 11pm every evening.

Place Valhubert (5th), 01 40 79 56 01

Joyeux Noël DECEMBER 25 Celebrate Christmas with a whole lot of chocolate from Jadis et Gourmande including this edible creation of Santa’s throne complete with the jolly man’s hat.

27 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 01 42 65 23 23

Under the Tree ALL MONTH Visit the Notre-Dame and take in the magnificent Christmas tree standing in front of the famous cathedral before walking through the charming Christmas market in the neighbouring Square Viviani that is open from the 14th to the 23rd of the month.

6 Parvis Notre-Dame – Place John Paul II (4th) 12 W H E R E PA R I S I D E C E M B E R 2018

This Paris Horse Show is regarded as one of the finest in the world.

Dedicated to the universe of the horse, it embodies equestrian elegance. Breeders will be on hand as well as myriad horses, ponies and donkeys. A host of competitions and everything related to the world of horses are all on the agenda. The show is open from 10am to 7pm, and until 8pm on the 1st. www.salon-cheval.com Parc des Expositions de Paris-Nord Villepinte

DECEMBER 1-3 SALON SAVEURS This is a joyful celebration of glorious French gastronomy with regional specialties and luxury foods and a place to purchase and savour delicacies. The show is open from 10am to 7pm. www.salon-saveurs.com Espace Champerret, Place de la Porte de Champerret (17th)

DECEMBER 8-16 NAUTIC SALON NAUTIQUE This is a premium trade show for boating enthusiasts. Sailboats, motorboats and the latest yachts are all on hand for this annual rendezvous of the sea. The show is open from 10am to 7pm. www.salonnautiqueparis.com Paris Expo, Blvd Victor (15th)

DECEMBER 14-16 SALON VINIBIO This trade fair brings together the leading French and European producers of organic and biodynamic wines. Conferences, workshops and tastings with commentaries by experts are all on the agenda. The show is open from 10:30am to 7pm. www.salon-vinibio.com Paris Expo, Blvd Victor (15th)

Illumintaed installation © China Light Festival B et © Tianyu Arts & Culture.Inc

A Walk with the Animals

DECEMBER 1-2 SALON DU CHEVAL DE PARIS

www.tasaki.co.jp

Feature

Celebrating with Champagne

By Patricia Valicenti

Champagne with a view at the Bar Windo in the Hyatt Regency Paris Etoile Hotel

A

s the holiday season settles in talk turns to one of the most festive of libations, champagne, a decidedly French affair, for champagne is made from grapes grown on a group of select hillsides and slopes, the vast majority of which are concentrated in the French department of the Marne, in and around the cities of Reims and Epernay. For it was here in eastern France that three centuries of labour by men and women turned a cold, humid landscape of relatively poor soil of almost pure chalk, responsible for champagne’s distinctive taste, into a world-famous beverage synonymous with celebration. The great champagne houses continue to innovate while the French capital is peppered with fabulous spots to enjoy champagne or champagnebased cocktails.

14 W HE RE PA R I S I D E C E M B E R 2018

G.H. Mumm & Cie was founded in 1827 but it is skyrocketing into the 21st century with its pioneering spirit with its latest objective being space. After three years of research, development and experimentation, the house has created Mumm Grand Cordon Stellar, the first champagne destined to be savoured in space. Working with a team of experts, engineers, researchers, designers, astronauts and oenologists, the result is champagne that comes out of the bottle in a frothy foam that was tasted and tested in a weightlessness fly over of the vineyards around Reims. But for mere earthlings, the house’s singular and always refreshingly consistent Cordon Rouge remains a classic, a savant blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier grapes then aged for three years. Another enticing choice would be the Cordon Rouge Brut MillÊsime (vintage) 2012 with a high percentage of Pinot Noir grapes

Credit: Exp #14, Esprit Souterrain, Pablo VALBUENA Photo © Fred Laures

The installation work by Pablo Valbuena at the Pommery Experience show in the spectacular stairway leading into the chalk cellars

emanating from the Grand Crus of the Montagne de Reims, blended with a touch of Chardonnay.

Laurent-Perrier is also reaching for the stars with its limited edition Cuvée Rosé Constellation in a splendid bottle that evokes the evening sky. This is one of the great pink champagnes with its deep raspberry colour and its fresh taste and red fruit aromas. The house’s Cuvée Rosé was created in 1968 and is marked by its unique grape variety for it is 100 per cent Pinot Noir.

Meanwhile, for a totally unusual champagne experience, you can explore the spectacular chalk cellars of the house of Pommery in Reims. For the 14th time the cellars are welcoming a Pommery

Experience, a show devoted to contemporary art in the various alcoves and tunnels of the house’s extensive, deep and working cellars, a journey into a mysterious labyrinth, which comes alive with diverse works of art. A sculpture in the palest of green blue looking like something out of a sea of Poseidon rubs shoulders with champagne bottles that are quietly ageing away while in one alcove, installation works look down over a 14th century statue of the Virgin Mary. The show, curated by Hugo Vitrani of the Palais de Tokyo, presents some 20 international artists from various generations and working in myriad mediums ranging from video, to drawings, to sculpture and installation works. The Pommery guides are especially trained to guide you through the exhibition as well as the activities of the cellar. And after, once you come out of the cellars and the Pommery experience, you w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 15

Feature

The vineyards of G.H. Mumm with the windmill of Verzenay in the background (left) and the vineyards of Pinot Meunier grapes on the northern slopes of the Montagne de Reims for the production of Champagnes Ch. de l’Auche (right)

While champagne is made from the fermented and re-fermented juice of largely Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes, the Pinot Meunier variety, the only grape variety that is indigenous to the region, is at times a forgotten cousin although it can impart a subtle taste of candied fruit and spices into the champagne. And rare are the champagnes made entirely with Pinot Meunier. Enter some 60 wine growers of the great wine-producing region of the northern slopes of the Montagne de Reims who have come together supplying 40 different crus or wines since the early 1960s to produce prestigious champagnes at the Janvry cellar. The result being the champagnes Ch. de l’Auche with its Cuvée du Chapitre, a Blanc de Meunier, a sensational find composed entirely of Pinot Meunier grapes proffering a powerful champagne that remains surprisingly fresh and fruity.

Founded in 1729, Ruinart is regarded as the oldest of the Champagne houses. The 8-metre long cellars descending an astonishing 38 metres into the ground are reminiscent of a cathedral and offer ideal

The Cuvée du Chapitre made from 100% Pinot Meunier grapes from the Champagnes Ch. de l’Auche

16 W HE R E PA R I S I D E C E M B E R 2018

G.H.Mumm’s 2012 vintage champagne

conditions for ageing sparkling wines. The Ruinart champagnes are characterised by the Chardonnay grape variety, a rare, complex and fragile variety. And while the house’s Blanc de Blancs is a quintessential classic, the house produces a fine range of rosés as well with the Ruinart Rosé blending 55 per cent Pinot Noir grapes with 45 per cent Chardonnay and then there is the ultimate vintage Dom Ruinart Rosé 2004 with a delicate touch of wild strawberry aroma.

Champagnes find their way to the finest of tables and wine cellars in Paris, too. A delightful champagne experience is underway in Paris at the Hôtel Plaza Athénée, which is welcoming a fabulous cellar of Dom Pérignon champagnes in its bar. Some 60 rare Dom Pérignon white and rosé champagnes are waiting to be tasted including the P2, the second plenitude that was elaborated over 16 years and the P3, the third plenitude that was elaborated over 25 years.

A bar devoted to champagne and cocktails and with a spectacular view out onto Paris has also opened, sitting up at 140 metres over Paris on the 34th floor of the Hyatt Regency Paris Etoile. The venue, the Bar

G.H.Mumm’s eternal classic, the Cordon Rouge

Ruinart’s Rosé, an evergreeen classic

LaurentPerrier’s dreamy Cuvée Rosé Constellation

The vineyards of G.H.Mumm Photo © Gérard Uferas; Laurent-Perrier’s dreamy Cuvée Rosé Constellation Photo © Jean-Marc Martin - Illustration Luma

can enjoy a glass of refreshing champagne as part of the tour.

Feature

Dom Pérignon champagne is being showcased at the bar of the Hôtel Plaza Athénée (left), and the Esperanza Margarita cocktail at the La Mezcaleria Bar in the 1K Paris Hôtel (right)

Windo, offers a fabulous setting to sip, for example, the Mistinguett, one of the three champagne cocktails on offer and made with Parisian gin, jasmine, gentian and champagne.

melange of fine rum, Taittinger champagne, lemon, Angostura Bitters, grapefruit juice, cherry liquor and fresh mint, offers an excellent remedy for the long and dark days of winter.

Meanwhile, you can enjoy champagne at the Relais du Parc restaurant in the Renaissance Hotel Trocadero during its Sunday brunch with a fine view out on to the establishment’s interior garden.

And for a small extra price to the prix fixe brunch the experience becomes one filled with unlimited champagne, dubbed the Bubble Brunch, to accompany for example, the smoked salmon, salmon gravlax and prime rib that are all stars on the buffet along with eggs and a host of homemade desserts. The establishment also carries a fine selection of Laurent-Perrier champagnes.

The atmosphere-filled and Parisian temple to mescal, La Mezcaleria bar, secretly tucked away inside the 1K Paris Hôtel offers a fine selection of cocktails including the Esperanza Margarita a savant mix of tequila, grapefruit, gentian, agave, lime and Veuve Cliquot champagne or you can alternatively savour the Veuve Cliquot on its own.

You can savour a vintage champagne cocktail made in the unique setting of the Bar 1802 of the Hôtel Monte Cristo. A genuine curiosity cabinet welcomes visitors and guests and the bar transmits a 19th century atmosphere of explorers, adventurers and exploration. You can sip the very venerable and delightful Old Cuban Wilmore, here a

The Nysa wine shops in Paris, which are specialised in wines and champagnes from independent growers and vintners are offering a unique champagne experience in all of their boutiques on December 14th, 15th and 16th. For the seventh time they will be holding their Bonheur des Bulles (Happiness of Bubbles) champagne tastings. In each wine boutique a champagne producer will be on hand to offer tastings and explanations of his or her champagne.

DOMAINE POMMERY 5 Place Général Gouraud, 51100 Reims, 03 26 61 62 56 Reservations are required for the visit BAR 1802 Hôtel Monte Cristo 20-22 rue Pascal (5th), 01 40 09 09 09

18 W HE R E PA R I S I D E C E M B E R 2018

HOTEL PLAZA ATHENEE 25 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 53 67 66 65 LA MEZCALERIA 1K Paris Hôtel 13 blvd du Temple (3rd), 01 42 71 77 15 RELAIS DU PARC Renaissance Trocadero Hotel 55-57 ave Raymond Poincaré (16th), 01 44 05 66 66

NYSA WINE CELLARS FOR CHAMPAGNE TASTINGS December 14th starting at 4pm 103 rue des Pyrénées (20th) 01 43 71 98 68 December 15th starting at 11am 95 rue Saint Antoine (4th) 01 40 29 02 56 December 16th starting at 11am 39 rue des Martyrs (9th) 01 40 16 80 27 Full programme at www.nysa.fr

Hôtel Plaza Athénée Photos © Romain Bourven

ADDRESS BOOK BAR WINDO Hyatt Regency Paris Etoile 3 Place du Général Koenig (17th), 01 40 68 51 31

www.redline-boutique.com

Christmas Treats

Bûche Bites

By Sandra Iskander

La Bûche, the traditional Christmas cake in France gets a makeover every year by some of the greatest pastry chefs in the world, and this year is no exception with some so intricately designed they look too good to eat. Here are our favourite edible works of art we could not resist biting into.

At the Ritz, sample pastry chef François Perret’s honey-inspired and flavoured Yule log complete with chocolate beeswax detailing.

Bite into the blueberry jam-filled Greek column at Hôtel de Crillon.

Unlock the chocolate box with notes of passion fruit and roasted hazelnuts at La Goutte d’Or. 20 W H E R E PA R I S I D E C E M B E R 2018

Inspired by the hotel’s modern design, pastry chef Yann Brys has transformed the Nolinski hotel into an edible structure made with a milk chocolate mousse flavoured with maple syrup.

Le Burgundy © Julie Limont; Ritz © Aimery Chemin; Hotel de Crillon © Hotel de Crillon, A Rosewood Hotel; Nolinski hotel © Frédéric Baron

Fouquet’s goes wild with artist Richard Orlinski’s panda-shaped vanilla mousse and orange marmalade treat.

Let the snowflake melt on your tongue with notes of dark chocolate and caramel thanks to Pascal Hainigue’s creation for Le Burgundy.

Café de la Paix embellishes its chocolate mousse Christmas tree with golden dark chocolate.

Take your taste buds on a voyage with Michaël Bartocetti’s ShangriLa Express bûche with layers of chocolate mousse, banana cream and notes of lime. The edible train’s wheels are made with a delicious creamy peanut praline, and the cargo carriage carries mouth-watering chocolate truffles.

Pierre Hermé saws his way through the festive season with dark chocolate, hazelnut praline and Chantilly cream.

Mandarin Oriental, Paris © Mathilde de l’Ecotais; Shangri-La Buche © Romeo Balancourt

The Mandarin Oriental, Paris hotel celebrates a white Christmas with a white chocolate covered mousse cake with a bed of a pecan biscuit and a refreshing mandarin compote.

ADDRESS BOOK BURGUNDY 6-8 rue Duphot (1st), 01 42 60 34 12 CAFÉ DE LA PAIX 5 Place de l’Opéra (9th), 01 40 07 36 36 CRILLON 10 Place de la Concorde (8th), 01 44 71 15 00 FOUQUET’S 99 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 40 69 60 50 HUGO & VICTOR 40 blvd Raspail (7th), 01 44 39 97 73 LA GOUTTE D’OR 183 rue Marcadet (18th), 07 60 35 10 13 MANDARIN ORIENTAL PARIS 251 rue Saint Honoré (1st), 01 70 98 78 88 NOLINSKI 16 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01 42 86 10 10 PIERRE HERMÉ 39 ave de l’Opéra (2nd), 01 43 54 47 77 PRINCE DE GALLES 33 ave George V (8th), 01 53 23 77 77 RITZ 15 Place Vendôme (1st), 01 43 16 30 30 SHANGRILA HOTEL 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01 53 67 19 98

An extra large chocolate truffle ball is what Victor & Hugo envisioned for their bûche.

Pastry chef Nicolas Paciello has laced a dark chocolate pinecone with sweet honeydew honey for the Hôtel Prince de Galles.

w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 21

The Guide

SHOPPING

By Sandra Iskander

Turn to page 32 for all the best beauty buys for the holiday season 22 W HE RE PA R I S I D E C E M B E R 2018

Photo © Chanel

For Her | New Boutiques | Christmas Wishlist | For Him | Beauty Buys

SHOPPING

For Her

Mixing Fashion and Practicality Inspired by the 80s and a touch of the early 90s, Altuzarra’s autumn/winter 2018/2019 collection is a wonderful melange of warm, chunky yet elegant knits, pinstriped suits and floral dresses. With each piece easily fitting into a day-to-night wardrobe, the collection is a win for the fashion house in creating looks that suit the boardroom as well as the poshest restaurants around town. - S.I. Available at Printemps

Musical Steps Famous for their ballerinas, Repetto is a luxury brand that has always brought a touch of dance to their every collection.

Australian singer and songwriter Sia is known for her unique style, her signature wig and her love of using dancers in her music videos. A collaboration between the two, while unexpected, does seem natural and together they have created a capsule collection made up of three iconic Repetto designs that have been given the Sia touch. Available in different colours, the shoes reference Sia’s famous quote, “I love you, keep going”, printed inside the shoe while the outside screams the singer’s quirky look, complete with over the top bows. - S.I.

Sia DR; Altuzarra Paris Womenswear Fall Winter 2018-2019 Paris

Repetto Boutique 22 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01 44 71 83 12

w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 23

SHOPPING

New Boutiques

Trunk Show He is famous for his incredible trunk creations and now Fred Pinel has opened his new flagship store in the French capital where you are invited to browse and admire his colourful collections. The inviting Pinel & Pinel store showcases the designer’s luxurious trunks including the Cigar Trunk that can hold up to 1400 cigars and the Game Trunk with its drawers that hold up to 40 different games, from Monopoly to a chessboard. The store also puts the designer’s handbags and leather goods under the spotlight, with bags, vanity cases and business card holders all on show and all as colourful and meticulously put together as the trunks. - S.I. Pinel & Pinel Boutique 5 blvd Malesherbes (8th), 09 67 07 58 39

Pop-Up of Design Bringing a little bit more surprises to the festive season is the Vitra Christmas pop-up store. Open until the 22nd of December, the store is tucked away in the Opéra-Louis Jouvet Square and offers a wonderful

Nelson and Jasper Morrison. Choose from the limited edition Charles & Ray Eames radio, the Resting Animals collection from Front Design and Alexander Girard’s Wooden Dolls, to surprise design aficionados with an original gift under the tree this Christmas. Open from Tuesday to Saturday. - S.I. Vitra Boutique 3 Square de l’Opéra-Louis Jouvet (9th), 01 56 77 07 77

Chic Gloves Keep your hands warm and looking good with chic gloves from the recently opened Muriel boutique. On the posh Rue de Boissy d’Anglas, a few doors down from the Hermès flagship boutique, is where you will find this warm haven dedicated to gloves. Everything from leather gloves to fingerless gloves, for both him and her, are found here.. - S.I. Muriel Boutique 31 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 06 12 46 17 60

24 WH E R E PA R I S I D E C E M B E R 2018

Resting Animals Bear Cat Bird Wooden Dools ©Vitra; Pinel & Pinel ©Good Karma !

selection of contemporary objects designed by, among others, George

ph. alessandrobencini.com

15, Galerie Vèro-Dodat, 75001 Paris (enter at 2 Rue du Bouloi or 19 Rue J.Jacques Rousseau) Ph. +33 0140390151 www.angelacaputi.com

w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 25

SHOPPING For Her

CHRISTMAS Wishlist

Chanel 40 rue des Francs Bourgeois (3rd), 01 49 96 46 00

Artigas Vase Available at the Grand Palais boutique for the duration of the Mirò exhibition 3 ave du Général Eisenhower (8th), 01 44 13 17 17 26 W H E R E PA R I S I D E C E M B E R 2018

Chatelles 94 rue du Bac (7th), 01 42 22 20 46

La Note Parisienne Available at Le Drugstore 133 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 44 43 77 64

Printemps du Goût 59 rue de Caumartin (9th), 01 42 82 75 00

Illustrations © iStockphoto 2018; N5 Red © Chanel; Mirò © RmnGp; Tea © Printemps du Goût

Worms Paris 8 rue la Fayette (9th), 01 48 24 34 50

SHOPPING For Him

Frey Wille 167 rue Saint Honoré (1st), 01 42 60 47 47

Bvlgari 25 Place Vendôme (1st), 01 55 35 00 50

Lip Available at boutique.elysee.fr Leica 105-109 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 77 72 20 70

Santoni 36 ave. George V (8th), 01 42 89 41 17

The Conran Shop 117 rue du Bac (7th), 01 42 84 10 01 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 27

SHOPPING For Kids

Jean Paul Gaultier Available at Bijouterie Ligeron, 27 blvd de Bonne Nouvelle (2nd), 01 42 33 34 44 Pandora 20 rue des Francs Bourgeois (3rd), 01 57 40 83 53

Gap x Sarah Jessica Parker 36 ave. des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 56 88 48 00

Chiara Ferragni Available at Lafayette 40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 34 56 Bowers & Wilkins Available at Auditorium Parisien, 41 blvd Beaumarchais (3rd), 01 42 74 04 44 28 W HE R E PA R I S I D E C E M B E R 2018

Barbie Available at Lafayette 40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 34 56

Illustration © iStockphoto 2018; Barbie © 2017 Mattel

Kenzo Available at Galeries Lafayette 40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 40 16 49 45

Your invitation

TO A SPARKLING HOLIDAY SEASON AT LA VALLÉE VILLAGE Discover more than 110 boutiques with savings of up to 50%(1) and a tax free lounge(2) in a charming open-air setting, with brands such as Armani, Coach, Furla, Jimmy Choo, Michael Kors, Moncler, Sandro, Tod’s and many more!

Open seven days a week, just 40 minutes from Paris and five minutes from Disney® Parks.

EXCEPTIONAL OPENING on January 1st from noon to 8 pm #LaValleeVillage #LoveTheMoment |

EU RO P E L A VA L L É E V I L L AG E PA R I S | B I C E ST E R V I L L AG E LO N D O N | K I L DA R E V I L L AG E D U B L I N I N G O L STA DT V I L L AG E M U N I C H | M A A SM EC H E L E N V I L L AG E B RUSS E L S | F I D E N Z A V I L L AG E M I L A N L A S ROZ A S V I L L AG E M A D R I D | C H I N A SU Z H O U V I L L AG E SU Z H O U | SH A N G H A I V I L L AG E S H A N G H A I

| |

W E RT H E I M V I L L AG E F R A N K F U RT L A RO C A V I L L AG E BA RC E LO N A

At least 33% off the recommended retail price of previous seasons’ collections all year round and up to 50% off in certain periods and boutiques. (2)Non-EU residents are entitled to a tax refund of at least 12% on purchases of more than €175 per boutique. © La Vallée Village 10/18

(1)

SHOPPING For Him

A Celebration of Complications The house of Frédérique Constant is celebrating its 30th anniversary this year with the launch of a limited edition Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Manufacture of which only, and fittingly, 30 timepieces have been fashioned. The watch’s mechanism is stunning with its silicium escapement wheel and anchor, a smart weight balance wheel and the eye-catching tourbillon cage. Silicium is a material that is light, durable, antimagnetic and extremely resistant to temperature changes all offering great progress to precision. The cage of the tourbillon is perfectly balanced and composed of 80 parts conceived and produced, as are all of the house’s movements, in the manufacture’s workshops. The watch’s highly sophisticated Perpetual Calendar complication displays the day, date and month and acknowledges the number of days in each month, displays the year and automatically adjusts itself to the leap year. The timepieces are outfitted with a power reserve of 38 hours and are presented in a 42mm diameter case that is available in polished stainless steel, 18 carat rose gold plated stainless steel or in 18 carat rose gold, with a see through back case. - P.V. Available at Bucherer 12 blvd des Capucines (9th), 01 70 99 18 88

Under the historical glass rooftop of Galerie Vivienne is where you will find the Aïzea boutique where luxurious leathergoods are put on-show, asserting their place in every gentleman’s collection of accessories. Specialising in designs using exotic leather including python and alligator, Aïzea offers shoppers a selection of handmade sneakers and bags ranging from backpacks to more traditional briefcases. The brand also offers demanding gentlemen a bespoke service by way of designing their own bag, offering them the opportunity to create a unique accessory. Meaning wind in the Basque language, Aïzea takes gentlemen on a whirlwind voyage through their savoir-faire, starting from their 24-hour travel bag that is handcrafted in Spain all the way to their alligator skin wallets, ensuring they are well-accessorised no matter where the wind takes them. - S.I. Aïzea Boutique 62 Galerie Vivienne (2nd), 09 86 58 69 41 30 W H E R E PA R I S I D E C E M B E R 2018

Aïzea © Di Messina

Your Perfect Accessory

SHOPPING Beauty

This Month’s Best

BEAUTY FINDS

By Sandra Iskander

1 - Blend your foundation perfectly with Artis’s Palm Brush.

Available at Printemps, 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 50 00

2& 3

2 - Add a touch of gold to your eyes with Chanel’s Création Exclusive eyeshadow in Cuivre Lamé.

40 rue des Francs Bourgeois (3rd), 01 49 96 46 00

1

3 - Get flamboyant with Chanel’s glittery red nail polish in Flamboyance.

4 - Make your lips pop with Elizabeth Arden’s liquid lipstick in Burgundy.

Available at Nocibé, 6 blvd des Capucines (9th), 01 43 87 81 52

5 4

7

5 - Reduce your wrinkles with Ioma’s Sublime Stick 2 in 1 by simply applying on your wrinkles to create a blurring effect.

77 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01 42 25 18 08 6 - Smell like a bouquet of warmth with Maître Parfumeur et Gantier’s Ambre Précieux with notes of lavender, vanilla and nutmeg.

5 rue des Capucines (1st), 01 42 96 35 13 7 - Embrace Christian Louboutin’s Goldmania collection with lashings of gold mascara.

Available at Printemps

6

8 - Keep your hands extra soft and smelling like dessert with Roger & Gallet’s Amande hand cream.

195 rue Saint Honoré (1st), 01 42 60 10 68

8 32 W HER E PA R I S I D E C E M B E R 2018

9

10

10 - Get fuller, longer lashes with Talika’s Lipocils Expert treatment in a limited edition design complete with the Eiffel Tower to celebrate the brand’s 70th anniversary.

Available at Sephora

Chanel Products © Chanel

9 - Set and refresh your make-up with Too Faced’s Hangover 3-in-1 Replenishing Primer & Setting Spray.

Available at Sephora, 70-72 ave. des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 53 93 22 50

WHERE PARIS PROMOTION

ITALIE DEUX A Shopper’s Paradise Replete with Cultural Offerings

L

ocated in the heart of Paris in the lively and eclectic 13th arrondissement or district, the Italie Deux shopping mall is the second most frequented shopping destination in Paris and the Left Bank’s historic shopping centre. Open seven days a week, it brings together some 130 shops, a theatre and a host of eateries. Inside you will find the Printemps department store, the Fnac, for leisure, entertainment and computer products, Sephora, the beautiful beauty store, the toy store La Grande Récré and quintessential French brands like Lacoste.

And Italie Deux isn’t just a shopping centre for it plays host to cultural offerings as well. Last year the 13ème Art opened its doors, a theatre outfitted with two performance halls, seating 900 and 130 respectively and welcoming a rich programme of diverse shows for young and old alike, as well as a television recording studio. It is the first theatre of this dimension to open in the French capital in 100 years and it is the first cultural centre to be integrated into a shopping mall in France.

The 13th arrondissement is a hotbed of street art and within Italie Deux is a fresco by the internationally celebrated graffiti artist Astro.

And throughout the entire month of December, visitors to Italie Deux can discover Les Boutiques Vive La France, an exclusive and ephemeral space bringing together iconic and emerging brands that are guaranteed with the certification Origine France Garantie, meaning their French origin is guaranteed.

30 avenue d’Italie (13th), +33 (0)1 45 80 72 00 M° Place d’Italie www.italiedeux.com

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SHOPPING Fashion

Holiday LOOKS Photographer: Fabian Voizard Art Direction & Fashion Editor: Sandra Iskander Stylist: Sarah Cazeneuve Make-Up Artist: Alexandra Waldura Hair Stylist: Jimmy Jurcenoks Models: Michaella Majeski from Mademoiselle and Sadem Hadj Mansour Special thanks to HĂ´tel Renaissance Paris VendĂ´me

Sadem wears Brunello Cucinelli shirt Capel pants J.M. Weston shoes Jacquet Droz watch Michaella wears Dice Kayek dress Lorenz Baumer diamond ring Stella Luna shoes Parmigiani watch

34 W H E R E PA R I S I D E C E M B E R 2018

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Brunello Cucinelli shirt Tiger of Sweden pants and jacket Breguet watch

36 W H E R E PA R I S I D E C E M B E R 2018

Brunello Cucinelli dress Chaumet diamond rings Lorenz Baumer white gold and diamond cuff bracelet w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 37

Tiger of Sweden suit Capel shirt J.M. Weston shoes Parmigiani watch

38 W H E R E PA R I S I D E C E M B E R 2018

Michaella wears Dice Kayek dress Harry Winston platinum and diamond cuff bracelet, ring, necklace and earrings

Sadem wears Brunello Cucinelli shirt and pants Tiger of Sweden scarf

w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 39

Julien Fournier coat Harry Winston platinum and diamond necklace

40 W HER E PA R I S I D E C E M B E R 2018

Michaella wears Julien Fournier dress Harry Winston platinum and diamond cuff bracelet, rings and earrings Sadem wears Brunello Cucinelli suit and shirt

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Address Book

SHOPPING

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris ACCESSORIES

CHILDREN’S CLOTHING & TOYS

Acaba - 41 rue des Petits Champs (1st),

Bonpoint - 6 rue de Tournon (6 ), 01.40.51.98.20. M° Mabillon Jacadi - 17 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.42.65.84.98. M° Madeleine Joué Club - 3-5 blvd des Italiens (2nd), 01.53.45.41.41. M° Richelieu-Drouot La Grande Récré - 126 rue La Boétie (8th), 01.42.25.42.42. M° Georges V Tikibou Toy Store - 33 blvd Edgar Quinet (14th), 01.43.20.98.79. M° Edgar Quinet

01.71.72.96.45. M° Pyramides Laulhère - 14-16 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), in the courtyard, 01.42.65.90.59. M° Madeleine Leica Store - 105-109 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01. 77.72.20.70. M° Saint-Philippe du Roule Montblanc - 152 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.44.20.07.70. M° George V Victorinox - 2 blvd Raspail (7th), 01.45.44.52.64 M° Rue du Bac Swarovski - 32 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.65.28.10. M° Madeleine Swarovski - 2 blvd Raspail (7th), 01.45.44.52.64. M° Rue du Bac

BEAUTY SPAS & PRODUCTS Atelier Cologne - 17 rue des Francs Bourgeois (4th), 01.42.71.88.29. M° Saint-Paul Ban Thai Spa - 25 ave Raymond Poincare (16th), 01.43.59.39.39. M° Trocadéro Cercle Delacre - 17 ave George V (8th), 01.40.70.99.70. M° George V Elysées Shopping - 12 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.15.62. M° George V Guerlain - 68 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.45.62.52.57. M° George V Lancôme - 29 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.65.30.74. M° Madeleine L’Artisan Parfumeur - 167 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.43.27.47.87. M° Saint-Germain-des-Près L’Occitane - 55 rue Saint-Louis en L’Ile (4th), 01.40.46.81.71. M° Pont Marie Maison Arabian Oud - 63 ave des ChampsElysées (8th), 01.43.59.59.59. M° Franklin D. Roosvelt Maître Parfumeur et Gantier - 5 rue des Capucines (1st), 01.42.96.35.13. M° Opéra Marionnaud Paris - 104 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.96.50.00. M° George V Sephora - 70-72 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.93.22.50. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Serge Lutens - 142 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.49.27.09.09. M° Palais Royal

BOOKS & MUSIC Paul Beuscher - 27 blvd Beaumarchais (4th),

01.44.54.36 00. M° Bastille Pianos Pleyel - 93-95 ave Daumesnil (12th), 01.45.61.53.00. M° Gare de Lyon Shakespeare & Company - 37 rue de la Bûcherie (5th), 01.43.25.40.93. Mº Saint-Michel W.H. Smith - 248 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.77.88.99. Mº Concorde

BONPOINT

| Children’s Clothing & Toys

42 W H E R E PA R I S I D E C E M B E R 2018

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CLOTHING: MEN & WOMEN Akris - 49 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.20.47.49. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Beretta Gallery - 57 rue Pierre Charron (8th), 01.56.88.59.59. M° George V Burburry - 56 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), M° Madeleine Chanel - 31 rue Cambon (1st), 01.44.50.66.00. M° Concorde Coach - 372 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.86.02.39. M° Tuileries De Fursac - 34 ave de l’Opéra (2nd), 01.53.43.05.00.M° Opéra Dior - 30 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.40.73.73.73. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Eden Park - 11-13 rue Lobineau (6th), 01.43.25.02.25. M° Mabillon Emile Lafaurie - 56/58 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.42.74.50.05. M° Saint-Paul Karl Lagerfeld - 194 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.42.22.74.99. M° Rue du Bac Lacoste - 37 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.61.58.20. M° Opéra Lanvin- 22 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.71.31.73. M° Concorde Le Mont Saint Michel - 96 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.42.74.86.07. M° Filles du Calvaire Liu Jo - 182 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.53.71.15.40. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés Marella - 18 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.53.30.73.13. M° Madeleine Ports 1961 - 251 bis rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.47.03.35.41. M° Madeleine Prada - 6 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.58.18.63.30. M° Madeleine Saint Laurent - 53 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.83.84.53. M° Franklin Roosevelt Thomas Pink - 19 rue François 1er (8th), 01.47.23.72.00. M° Franklin Roosevelt Tommy Hilfiger - 43 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.60.70.02. M° Madeleine Yumi Katsura France - 26 rue Cambon (1st), 01.47.03.40.97. M° Concorde

Yohji Yamamoto - 4 rue Cambon Paris (1st), 01.40.20.00.71. M° Concorde Yves Salomon - 245 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.47.03.34.90. M° Tuileries

DEPARTMENT STORES & SHOPPING CENTRES

Beaugrenelle - 12 rue Linois (15th), 01.53.95.24.00. M° Charles Michels

BHV Marais - 55 rue de Rivoli (4th), 09.77.40.14.00. M° Hôtel de Ville

Galeries Lafayette - 40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.34.56. M° Chaussée d’Antin-La Fayette

La Vallée Village - 3 cours de la Garonne,

01.60.42.35.00. RER A4 to Val d’Europe (about 35min) Le Bon Marché - 24 rue de Sèvres (7th), 01.44.39.80.00. M° Sèvres-Babylone Italie Deux - 30 ave d’Italie (13th), 01.45.80.72.00. M° Corvisart Montparnasse Rive Gauche - 22 rue du Départ (15th). M° Montparnasse - Bienvenüe One Nation Paris - 1 ave du Président Kennedy, 78340 Les Clayes sous Bois, 01.72.87.90.11 Printemps Haussmann - 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.50.00. M° Havre-Caumartin

EYE WEAR

GrandOptical - 138 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.40.76.00.13. M° George V

JLC Opticien - 68 rue du Bac (8th), 01.45.48.58.10. M° Rue du Bac

Lafont Opticien - 17 blvd Raspail (7th), 01.45.48.24.23. M° Rue du Bac

Meyrowitz - 5rue de Castiglione (1st),

01.42.60.63.64. M° Tuileries

FABRICS: COUTURE

Janssens & Janssens - 3 rue d’Anjou (8th), 01.42.65.04.00. M° Concorde

HOME

Baccarat - 79 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.65.36.26. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Bodum - 38 ave de L’Opéra (2nd), 01.42.33.01.68. M° Opéra

Bernardaud - 11 rue Royale (8th), 01.47.42.82.66. M° Madeleine

Christofle - 9 rue Royale (8th), 01.55.27.99.13. M° Concorde

Jean Perzel - 3 rue de la Cité Universitaire (14th), 01.45.88.77.24. RER B: Cité Universitaire

Lalique - 11 rue Royale (8th),

01.53.05.12.12. M° Madeleine Roche Bobois - 207-213 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.49.54.01.70. M° Rue du Bac Roche Bobois - 207-213 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.49.54.01.70. M° Rue du Bac

HARRY WINSTON

| Jewellery & Watches

SHOPPING

Address Book

Sabre - 4 rue des Quatre Vents (6th),

01.44.07.37.64. M° Odéon Zwilling - 12 blvd de la Madeleine (9th), 01.42.68.88.00. M° Madeleine

JEWELLERY & WATCHES A. Lange & Söhne - 19 rue de la Paix (9th), 01.42.65.68.71. M° Opéra

Angela Caputi Giuggiu - 15 Galerie Véro-Dodat (1st), 01.40.39.01.51. M° Louvre-Rivoli Arije - 3 rue de Castiglione (1st), 01.42.60.37.77. M° Tuileries Audemars Piguet - 15 rue Royale (8th), 01.40.20.45.45. M° Concorde Boucheron - 26 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.61.58.16. M° Opéra Bucherer - 12 blvd des Capucines (9th), 01.70.99.18.88. M° Opéra Bulgari - 25 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.00.50. M° Pyramides

By Marie - 8 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.88.00. M° Alma- Marceau Cartier - 23 place Vendôme (1st), 01.44.53.32.20. M° Opéra Chanel Jewellery -18 place Vendôme (1st), 01.40.98.55.55. M° Opéra Chronopassion - 271 rue Saint-Honoré (1rst), 01.42.60.50.72. M° Concorde Chopard - 1 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.20.10. M° Opéra Damiani - 19 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.96.95.51. M° Opéra Dinh Van - 16 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.74.49. M° Opéra Dubail - 71-73 ave des Champs- Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.62.45. M° George V Elysées Horlogerie - 14 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.62.45. M° George V Elysées Joaillerie - 17 rue de Berri (8th), 01.42.89.89.88. M° George V Gas Bijoux - 26-28 Rue Danielle Casanova (2nd), 01.42.97.58.80. M° Quatre Septembre Gringoire Joallier - 32 ave Matignon (8th), 01.77.37.05.05. M° Miromesnil Gucci Watches - Printemps Haussmann (1st floor), 64 bd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.78.74. M° Havre-Caumartin Harry Winston - 29 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.20.03.09. M° Alma-Marceau Hublot - 271 rue Saint-Honoré (1st) , 01.47.03.39.99. M° Concorde Jaquet Droz - 8 rue de la Paix (2nd) , 01.55.04.75.20. M° Opéra F.P. Journe - 63 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.68.08.00, M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

MAÎTRE PARFUMEUR ET GANTIER

Mellerio dits Meller - 9 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.57.53. M° Opéra Omega - 362/364 rue Saint-Honoré (2nd), 01.55.35.03.60. M° Concorde Panerai - 5 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.51.50.50. M° Concorde Parmigiani - 125-126 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.13.93.93. M° Palais-Royal Pasquale Bruni - Printemps Haussmann (1st floor), 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.50.00. M° Havre-Caumartin Patek Philippe - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.44.17.77. M° Tuileries Piaget - 7 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.58.62.37.00. M° Opéra Pomellato - 350 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.31.55. M° Tuileries Redline Showroom - 161 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.44.64.92.24. M° Palais-Royal-Musée du Louvre Richard Mille - 17 ave Matignon (8th), 01.40.15.10.00. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Rolex - 9 place Vendôme (1st), 01.40.20.21.00. M° Concorde Tasaki - At the Ritz Paris, 15 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.36.33.00. M° Tuileries Tiffany&Co. - 6 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.40.20.20.20. M° Opéra Tissot Boutique - 76 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.42.56.18.53. M° George V Van Cleef & Arpels - 22 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.04.11.11. M° Opéra Vhernier - 63 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.93.15. M° Miromesnil Wempe - 16 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.21.77. M° Concorde

LINGERIE Agent Provocateur - 12 rue Cambon (1st),

01.42.61.79.54. M° Madeleine Cadolle - 4 rue Cambon (1st) , 01.42.60.94.22. M° Madeleine Chantal Thomass - 211 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.40.56. M° Tuileries La Perla - 20 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.43.12.33.50. M° Concorde

LUGGAGE AND BAGS

Aïzea - 62 Galerie Vivienne (2nd), 09.86.58.69.41. M° Bourse

Cesaire - 6 rue Saint-Florentin (1st),

01.42.97.43.43. M° Concorde/Madeleine Coach - 372-374 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.86.02.39. M° Madeleine Delvaux - 151-154 Galerie de Valois (1st), 09.67.19.93.28. M° Palais Royal Dot-Drops - 8 rue des Canettes (6th), 01.43.54.62.15. M° Mabillon

| Beauty Spas & Products

Goyard - 233 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.57.04. M° Tuileries

Hermès - 24 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.47.17. M° Concorde

Lancel - 127 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th),

01.56.89.15.70. M° George V Longchamp - 404 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.43.16.00.16. M° Concorde Louis Quatorze - 106 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.42.72.94.43. M° Filles du Calvaire Louis Vuitton - 101 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.53.57.52.00. M° George V Moreau Paris - 49 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.70.38.77.00. M° Champs-Élysées - Clemenceau Moynat - 348 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.47.03.83.90. M° Tuileries Mulberry - 275 rue Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.60.00.64. M° Concorde Pinel & Pinel - 5 blvd Malesherbes (8th), 01.42.60.58.39 M° Concorde

MULTI-BRAND BOUTIQUES Citadium - 56 rue de Caumartin (9th), 01.55.31.74.00. M° Havre-Caumartin L’Eclaireur - 26 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.12.32. M° George V Merci - 111 blvd Beaumarchais (3rd), 01.42.77.00.33. M° Saint Sébastien-Froissard & Other Stories - 76 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.70.80.78.50. M° Chemin Vert

SHOES Altan Bottier - 11 rue Lincoln (8th), 01.45.63.77.59. M° George V

Aubercy – 34 rue Vivienne (2nd),

01.42.33.93.61. M° Grands Boulevards

Berluti - 26 rue Marbeuf (8th),

01.53.93.97.97. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Christian Louboutin - 68 rue du Faubourg

Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.68.37.65. M° Madeleine Crockett & Jones – 14 rue Chauveau-Lagarde (8th), 01.44.94.01.74. M° Madeleine Edward Green – 199 bis blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.53.63.47.50. M° Rue du Bac J.M. Weston – 55 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.45.62.26.47 . M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Paraboot - 9 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.45.49.24.26. M° Saint-Sulpice Repetto - 22 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.44.71.83.12. M° Opéra Robert Clergerie - 5 rue du Cherche-Midi (6th), 01.45.48.75.47. M° Rennes Tod’s - 21 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.16.16. M° Concorde

CARTIER

| Jewellery & Watches w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 43

LUXURY MAP

Rue Saint-Honoré / Palais Royal

la Concorde

RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS

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Lanvin Carita • Berluti • Panerai Miu Miu

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RUE ROYALE

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RUE SAINT-FLORENTIN

• UE D

CA

APUC

DES C

ES PU CIN ES

RUE DES PYRAMIDES

ÉR

A

• De Fursac

•

Birkenstock

E

DE

L

É ’OP

Acaba •

RA

• ier An Lu na do Riv ab ka t rie lle Ge pp er t

AV

E NU

• Kam’s

RUE RICHELIEU

• •

•

•

•

R

RUE DU LOUVR E

Bonpoint IRO

KI

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto

Hartford

OU

•

Gerard Darel Kenzo Les petites

’AB

Galerie Véro-Dodat

Christian Louboutin

Place des Victoires

PS

ED

by Terry Xavier Lust

Galerie Vivienne

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RUE CROI X DES PETI TS CHAM

RUE VIVIENNE

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Palais Royal

• • • • • • • •

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Pie rre Co D Har rto elv dy Se Mo aux rg lte e Ri Lu do Ma ck O tens iso we n n Ste Pa Fab s lla rmi re Mc gia Ca ni rtn ey

RUE DE VALOIS

Musée du Louvre

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Bibliothèque Nationale - Site Richelieu-Louvois

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Francesco Russo

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44 W HE RE PA R I S I D E C E M B E R 2018

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62 Galerie Vivienne - Paris 2 Tel: +33 (0)9 86 58 69 41 www.aizea-paris.com

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Eric Philippe Angela Caputi Il Bisonte

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Galerie de Valois

AïZEA

OPÉRA Kusmi Tea

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Galerie de Montpensier

AïZEA is a French contemporary leathergoods company from the Basque Country, which is destined for aesthetes who work and travel.

Precision and a sense of detail, premium quality and exceptional skins are the key words that describe the brand’s expertise. The AïZEA collection is declined in Taurillon, and in precious leathers as Python and Wild Alligator from USA.

Opéra Garnier

RUE DES PETITS CHAMPS

Printemps du Louvre

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•Paraboot RUE SAINT-ROCH • Verbreuil

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• RedLine

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

Vendôme

•Christian Dior •Clergerie

FreyWille

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Place du Marché Saint-Honoré

•Aésop

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•Nodus PYRAMIDES •Tous

Vivienne • Westwood

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The Kooples •

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Chantal Thomass • Penhaligon’s • Peuterey •

Carrousel du Louvre

RU E CA MB ON • Tom Ford • • Kilian • • Kiton • Barrie Nous Tommy • Coach • Alexander McQueen Hilfiger • Brioni •Emporio Armani •Marc Jacobs •David Morris

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Ami • Missoni• • Kiehl’s• • Barbara Rihl

PRINTEMPS DU LOUVRE

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Chanel

•Pomellato •Baldinini •Moynat •Lyubov • Burma •Stuart Weitzman •Balenciaga • Exemplaire •Akillis

Church’s• Paule Ka• Paul Smith• Christofle •

• Zwilling • Lipault

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Printemps is entering the Carrousel du Louvre with a 2,500 sqm new store entirely dedicated to luxury.

Discover this new area celebrating the famous French know-how in the heart of the Louvre Museum and showcasing the most prestigious accessories, beauty, watches and jewellery brands.

Open 7 days a week, even on Sundays.

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5 rue des Capucines - Paris 1 , +33 (0)1 42 96 35 13 www.maitre-parfumeur-et-gantier.com

Carrousel du Louvre 99 rue de Rivoli – Paris 1st Tel : +33 (0)1 76 77 41 00 www.printemps.com

•Pucci

Dior U P H O

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Max&Moi • • Roberto Cavalli Moschino• Chloé• Ports • DsQuared2 • Tumi• Arije J.M. • Weston •

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• Wempe • Lancaster • Kate Spade • Furla • Tory Burch •Max Mara

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• Césaire Hublot • Chronopassion • Djula • Fendi•

MADELEINE

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Jeu de Paume

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Jardin des Tuileries

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This French house of fine fragrances was founded in 1988 by the famous perfumer Jean-François Laporte. Rooted in the French perfumery tradition of the 17th century, the house draws its inspiration from travel, the world of opera and Baroque aesthetics. The house offers its refined fragrances in a beautifully appointed boutique just footsteps away from the Place Vendôme.

Musée de l’Orangerie

RUE SAINT-HONORÉ

MAÎTRE PARFUMEUR ET GANTIER

Lyubov • Michael Kors • Mulberry • Valentino

•Lanvin • La Perla • Laulhère

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CONCORDE

Burberry

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Place de

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Aïzea

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Faubourg Saint-Honoré

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• •Tom FordRUE CAMBON • •Kilian • •Jimmy Choo Barrie • •Coach Nous Alexander McQueen • • Emporio Armani • Marc Jacobs • David Morris • Omega

• Burma Ciro pour

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• Roberto Cavalli Messika • Moschino • Chloé • Ports 1961• DsQuared2 • Tumi • Arije J.M. Weston • • Yves Salomon•

Wempe Ralph •Lancaster Lauren •Kate spade Kenzo • •Max Mara

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16 rue Royale - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 60 21 77 www.wempe.fr

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Atelier Cologne Hublot • Chronopassion • Fendi •

MADELEINE

• •• • Marina • Rinaldi •

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Laulhère

Prada Pinko Chanel Gucci Dior

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Oliver Grant

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The renowned German watchmaker has been satisfying customers for over 135 years. Featuring a fine selection of stylish jewellery, luxury watches and chronometers.

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• Royal Iro Quartz Lyobov • Michael Kors • Mulberry •

Yohji Yamamoto

WEMPE

RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS

Lanvin La Perla Vuarnet

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t ue • Pig n • rs rgo ma eu d de H au • Au ard ue • rn Be Laliq e • fl to ris

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Lanvin

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14 rue Chauveau-Lagarde - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (1) 44 94 01 74 www.crockettandjones.com

Place de la Concorde

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CROCKETT & JONES A reference for almost 140 years among Goodyear welted shoe lovers, the English luxury brand presents a wonderful capsule collection for this winter: The Black Editions, an over-sized, ‘Cleated’ rubber sole showcased using a selection of contemporary black leathers.

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• Sotheby’s G TOR • Chopard D ’A S RUE •Sonia Rykiel • Poiray Alberta Ferretti• • Christian Louboutin Apostrophe • • Pomellato • Opera Gallery Bui • Barbara RUE D’AGU ESSEA U • Capel •Bally •55 Croisette •Burberry •Brunello Cucinelli Roger Vivier • • Hogan U ’A N J O Valentino • • Ermenegildo Zegna RUE D • Heurgon • RUE D’ANJOU Janssens Mettez Djula • Jitrois & Janssens Les René Caovilla • • Saint Laurent Crockett Dandys • • Chanel • Boucheron & Jones • Tod’s • • Givenchy SQUIER • RUE PA Cartier • Alessi Burberry • • Hermès RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS ADE Frette • Moreau •

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Élysée Palace RUE DE L’ÉLYSÉE

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3 rue d’Anjou - Paris 8 (Corner 46 Fbg Saint-Honoré) Tel: +33 (0)1 42 65 04 00 www.janssensparis.com

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In the very heart of the Faubourg St-Honoré discover more than 3,000 different clothing fabrics, all extraordinary, and many used by haute couture designers. Owner Françoise Janssens can also recommend one of 40 local seamstresses.

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Pierre Cardin

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Rimowa• Mugler • RUE • Azzaro • DU C IRQU Vhernier E • F.P. Journe

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•Richard Mille Steiger Cifonelli MATIGNON • • AVE NUE MATIGNON Puiforcat • Baccarat • AV

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Galeries •Bartoux

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RUE DU FBG SAINT-HONORÉ

FRANKLIN D. ROOSEVELT

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Bucherer

• Tag Heuer • Samsonite • Bonbon Watch

CAPEL LACOSTE PAL ZILERI PAUL&SHARK CUTTER&BUCK TOMMY HILFIGER VILEBREQUIN

Alexandre Flanquart, RUGBYPLAYER, STADE FRANÇAIS PARIS, 2.06M - 120KG.

26 bd Malesherbes Paris 8e Monday - Saturday 10:30-19:00

74 bd Sébastopol Paris 3e Tuesday - Saturday 10:30-19:00

capelstore.fr

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48 W H E R E PA R I S I D E C E M B E R 2018

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BOULEV

8 rue des Canettes - Paris 6th Tel: +33 (0)1 43 54 62 15 / www.dotdrops.paris

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Poiray Jo • LiuFaçonnable • RUE VA R U CI Stella • DE L Louis RUE DE B D • ’A B SAI • Luna Etro • Vuitton B AY N Camper T E • -GE • Sonia • • RM Brunello • AIN Rykiel Moncler Cucinelli Ralph Hugo Boss SAINT-GERMAIN Smith Voyeurs • Lauren • Paul Emporio • DES-PRÉS • Ami Maison Armani BOU • • Lejaby• LEV • De Fursac L.K. ARD • Y’s SAIN • Céline Bennett T-GE RMA Ferragamo Rolex• • Dinh Van IN Carven • MABILLON Crockett & Jones • Hackett• Montblanc • Kenzo• • Paraboot • • J.M. Weston Eskandar Saint Laurent• Gas Bijoux ODEON L’Ibis Rouge • • OUR • DU F Liu Jo • RUE Sportmax• Prada • Marina • Tod’s Rinaldi Dot-Drops • • Djula • U FOUR Alain Mikli • Sabre La Perla• D Durance RUE •TS M.A.C.• • • E VEN R T A Repetto U ES Q Omega RUE D S E Berluti • VR Le Mont • • Saint • RUE DE SÉ • • Saint Michel RUE DE BABYLONE Agnès b Lancaster Laurent Longines Camper • LP • • RUE SAINT-SU ICE Frey Wille • SÉVRES-BABYLONE • •Maje • Tumi •Capel Clergerie Hermès • Eres • ULPICE SAINT-SULPICE Zadig RUE ST-S Le Bon • Lise Loxwood & Voltaire ES Charmel • Marché S É V R Il Bisonte DE • •

• L’Occitane • Lacoste

DOT-DROPS

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Karl Lagerfeld

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Christian Louboutin • Agent Provocateur

• Guerlain • Wolford

DOT-DROPS® is the brand of choice for the “happy few” of elite travellers. The philosophy of the French manufacturer is to continuously strive to achieve harmony between design and functionality.

DOTDROPS® creations are a solid marriage of colours, design and unexpected materials.

Exclusive: you can customize your suitcase at the boutique and make your travel experience unique!

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• Cassina JLC Opticien

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68 rue du Bac - Paris 7th Tel: +33 (0)1 45 48 58 10 www.jlcopticien.com

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Poltrona Frau

BOULEV

JLC OPTICIEN LUNETIER In the heart of Saint-Germain-des-Prés, JLC Opticien Lunetier offers you a very personalized service and a large selection of high end, fashionable and chic eyewear from luxury brands such as Oliver Peoples, Eyevan, Barton Perreira, Lindberg, Thom Browne, Mister Leight, Celine, JLC Paris and more...

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Maje • Atelier Cologne • Hartwood • Kujten • Gérard • Darel

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4 rue des Quatre Vents - Paris 6th Tel: +33 (0)1 44 07 37 64 www.sabre.fr

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Sabre offers multiple choices of flatware and dinnerware in multiple choices of colors. Let your creativity play with a nice Mix and Match. Sabre is a fantastic place to find original inspiration for a gift, as our collection suits different styles.

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Musée d’Orsay

Parfums

Philippe Menager & Nicolas Hug

BRANDSTORE VICTORINOX 2 bd Raspail 75007 PARIS

LE BON MARCHÉ 24 Rue de Sèvres 75007 PARIS

LE PRINTEMPS 64 bd Haussmann Beauté maison Étage 3 passerelle 75009 PARIS

GALERIES LAFAYETTE

Shopping and Welcome center Duty-free 21 boulevard Haussmann 75009 Paris

MAKERS OF THE ORIGINAL SWISS ARMY KNIFE | ESTABLISHED 1884

SWISS CHAMP 33 Functions, 91 mm, Swiss Made

LUXURY MAP Vendôme

Gare Saint-Lazare

SHOP STOP

TRINITÉ D’ESTIENNE D’ORVES

SAINT-LAZARE RUE DU HAVR E

RUE SAINT-LAZARE

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Printemps R U R U E JO U B ER Femme T

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BOULEVARD DES CAPUCINES

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A. Lange & Söhne Marvella • • • Repetto Poiray Dunhill R Corthay Y Christofle • • • Baume&Mercier Cartier • OLNE Piaget • Diesel V • Hugo Boss E • Bodum • IX • Lery R U Panerai Jimmy Choo IWC • PA Dinh Van • Alexander McQueen • LA • Fred Zenith • • UE DE• Breitling Emporio Armani Cartier R • Jaquet Droz Dubail Marc Jacobs Bvlgari •Anshindo • Damiani Miki Graff Diamond’s • • • •Vacheron Constantin • • House •• Tasaki• • De Fursac •Charvet • Gas Bijoux • Omega Rolex Jaeger- • • • Boucheron RUE • LeCoultre DA Van Cleef NIE DsQuared2 • • Desigual • Fred •• Place Vendôme • & Arpels LLE CA Tumi • SA • Blancpain NO VA • Chanel RU J.M. Weston • Chopard EG • Piaget O Chaumet M • BO • • US •Hublot Breguet T RU •Patek Philippe • Zadig & ED Place du Marché Freywille • • Dior ES Voltaire PE Saint-Honoré TIT Meyrowitz • Louis Vuitton • S-C • HA Lydia Akillis MP • S Courteille Pomellato • RU Marni• Moynat • ED H.Stern • UM Acaba Balenciaga • • ON • Arije Paule Ka T-T HA Akillis • BO PYRAMIDES RU R ET • • Jovoy • HÉ Missoni Christian Dior R C AP

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50 W H E R E PA R I S I D E C E M B E R 2018

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•Frank Namani

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41 rue des Petits Champs - Paris 1st Tel: +33 (0)1 71 72 96 45 / www.acaba.fr

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At ACABA Gantier, Claire Gros welcomes you to help you find the gloves that will fit you best.

Design, lining, color, leather, all of this can also be combined for a special order. Come and try the Le Mans Classic drivers gloves, golf, horseriding... Scout out your next pair of winter gloves, choose gifts for Christmas and enjoy a real glove experience when sampling different types of lining and materials.

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8 rue de la Paix - Paris 2nd Tel: +33 (0)1 55 04 75 20 www.jaquet-droz.com

Tommy Hilfiger

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Golfino • •Loding

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JAQUET DROZ Located 8 rue de la Paix, the Jaquet Droz Boutique is in the heart of luxury shopping in Paris.

198 m² highlighting current collections, Ateliers Art, Automata and limited edition pieces. A real honor for the Swiss brand to present its DNA to watch lovers, living or visiting the Ville Lumière.

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Sephora

Exaltation

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MADELEINE Église de la Madeleine

CHAUSSÉE D’ANTIN - LA FAYETTE

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40 boulevard Haussmann – Paris 9th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 82 36 40 haussmann.galerieslafayette.com/en/

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Printemps BeautéMaison-Enfant

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Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann offers a large selection of items in every segment, from fashion to accessories, beauty, interior decoration and fine food. Located in the heart of Paris nearby the Opera, the 70,000 square-meter flagship store, symbol of the Parisian elegance, offers more than 3,500 brands from affordable to the most prestigious references.

Galeries du Diamant •

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GALERIES LAFAYETTE PARIS HAUSSMANN

Passage du Havre

G A L E R I ES L A FAY E T T E PA R I S H AU S S M A N N

THE ULTIMATE SHOPPING DESTINATION Located in the heart of Paris nearby the Opera, the 70,000 square-meter flagship store, symbol of the Parisian elegance, of fers more than 3,500 brands from af fordable to the most prestigious references amongst which Cartier, Saint Laurent Paris, Christian Dior, Gucci, Céline, Van Cleef & Arpels, Longchamp, Fendi, Chloé, Prada, Rolex, Bulgari, Tif fany & Co, Givenchy, Moncler, Bottega Veneta, Valentino, Michael Kors, Burberry…

CHRISTMAS AT GALERIES LAFAYETTE

THE RARE CHAMPAGNE & MELLERIO SPACE*

WIZARDING WORLD

Galeries Lafayet te Paris Haussmann is organising

Fo r N ew Ye a r, Ra re Ch a m p a g n e p ro p o s e s: Ra re

To celebrate the release of the second chapter of

some ex traordinary end - of- year celebrations.

Le Se cret, a limite d e dition de corate d by Maison

Fantastic Beasts: The Crimes of Grindelwald and

In a world imagined entirely by children, the magic

Mellerio. Until 24 th D e c emb er, on the 2 nd f lo or of

20 years of Harry Pot ter, Galeries Lafayet te Paris

of Christmas comes to life in “The Dream Factory”.

t h e C o u p o l e s t o r e, d i s c ove r t h i s p r e s t i g e c u vé e

Haussmann becomes a spellbinding place. For the 1st

It is a dreamlike world where the little ones’ creations

at the heart of a stunning exhibition on the history

time in France, discover the boutique dedicated to the

take o n a li f e o f t h eir own: in cre dib l e m o ns t e r s,

and riches of the House of Rare Champagne.

famous wizarding world: wands, magical creatures,

a magical fir tree and northern lights strobing across

scarves, witches’ gowns, and more. There are also

the dome will make Christmas at Galeries Lafayette

several magical activities to enjoy: magic spell classes,

Paris Haussmann a delightful occasion. Whether it’s

f light simulator, photoshoots, and more! Visit the

treating yourself or someone else, never was there

ground f loor and the 1st f loor of the l’Homme store

a better reason to venture inside the department store.

for even more magic!

GALERIES LAFAYETTE PARIS HAUSSMANN: 40, BOULEVARD HAUSSMANN, 75009 PARIS METRO: CHAUSSÉE D’ANTIN - LA FAYETTE Open Monday through Saturday from 9.30 am to 8.30 pm and on Sunday from 11 am to 8 pm. Tel: +33 (0)1 42 82 36 40 - haussmann.galerieslafayette.com * Alcohol abuse is harmful to your health. Drink in moderation. Area restricted to persons aged over 18.

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Lacoste • Omega • Eric Bompard• • AVE Bvlgari Dubail Ellie • • Zegna • Saab U Leonard Longchamp• Stefano Ricci • EA C • • R Christofle Altan Bottier Creed MA E RU U Suites • • EN AV • E PIE•RRLes EC Cartier •Givenchy H Rolex • A V R Arije • RON • • Chaumet Dubail • RGE Audemars GEO Piguet Hublot• Cercle NUE Beretta Nike/PSG• E V A De Fursac Paule Ka • Delacre • • Arabian Oud• • Burma RUE Tumi• Sicis • Franck • RUE MARB• EUF •Tom Ford PIER•R Carvil Namani EC JLC Opticien • Zilli HAR • RUE RON • Kiton DE L Guy Laroche • • Balenciaga A TR J.M. Weston • R • Vionnet É U M

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Born in Saint-Tropez, Gas Bijoux has been creating solar jewelry for over 45 years, handmade by 80 craftsmen in its Marseille atelier. Today, Gas Bijoux is present in over 25 countries across the globe.

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57 rue Pierre Charron – Paris 8th Tel: +33(0)1 56 88 59 59 www.berettagallery.com

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Beautiful tailored sport and casual wear from the legendary family-owned, Italian house specialised in the world of nature and hunting is found in this gallery boutique. A man can be dressed from head to toes here in this shop akin to a curiosity cabinet where you can find high quality, refined accessories and lovely gift ideas.

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NFÉRENCE

55 ave des Champs-Élysées - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 45 62 26 47 / www.jmweston.com

PORT DE LA CO

J.M. WESTON J.M. Weston opens its new flagship store at 55 avenue des Champs-Elysées. J.M. Weston reaffirms its bond with the most beautiful avenue in the world, where it has sat since 1932. The store was designed by French architect Joseph Dirand, and displays all the shoes and accessories collections of J.M. Weston in a creative 600 m2 space. The largest J.M. Weston store to date, it reveals the architect’s Art Deco inspirations that harken back to the roots and history of the House.

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Adresse : 46 rue Vieille du Temple - Paris 4 Tel: +33 (0)1 43 56 04 99 M° Saint-Paul (line1) or Hôtel de Ville (lines 1&11) www.izipizi.com th

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IZIPIZI IZIPIZI is a brand of ready-to-wear trendy glasses. They offer everyone a classical and funny accessory, a basic must-have for reading, sun protection and screen protection. Soft and colorful glasses for adults, children and babies.

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More than just a department store: a fabulous lifestyle with its totally unique atmosphere where style rules. Its flair is reflected on every floor of our store at 52 rue de Rivoli, where you’ll find everything you need from fashion, to decorating, beauty to home improvement, leisure activities and more !

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106 rue Vieille du Temple - Paris 3rd Tel: +33 (0)1 42 72 94 43 www.louisquatorzeparis.fr

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LOUIS QUATORZE Louis Quatorze is a luxury leather goods brand that is inspired by French elegance, refinement and nobility. It is the 17th century that the house references with its modern and practical bags, which are handcrafted.

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Andy Warhol, Michael Jackson, 1984, acrylic and silkscreen ink on linen 762 x 660 mm, The Andy Warhol Museum, Pittsburgh; Founding Collection, Contribution The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc. © The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc. / Licensed by Adagp, Paris, 2018

The Guide

By Patricia Valicenti

Galleries | Monuments | Museums | Exhibits | Day Trips | Boat Trips | Guided Tours

ARTS& ATTRACTIONS

Meet Michael Jackson through different works at the Grand Palais (opposite page)

54 W HE RE PA R I S I D E C E M B E R 2018

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

Joan Miró, Intérieur hollandais (I) 1928. Huile sur toile, 91,8 x 73 cm. États-Unis, New York. The Museum of Modern Art. Mrs. Simon Guggenheim Fund, 1945. © Successió Miró / Adagp, Paris 2018. Photo Successió Miró Archive; KAWS, Michael Jackson, Interview Magazine, September 2009 ; 2009, medium and dimensions vary Courtesy of KAWS

Exhibitions

The Marvels of Miró The Grand Palais is hosting a major retrospective devoted to the great Catalan artist Joan Miró. Entitled simply Miró, the show brings together nearly 150 works including paintings, drawings, ceramics and sculptures, underscoring the key periods in his career, which spanned close to seven decades. The show covers his Fauvist, Cubist and Detaillist periods followed by his Surrealist period in which he created innovative, poetic works. Exceptional loans from leading museums around the world as well as major private collections emphasise the pivotal periods of Miró who once declared, “People will understand more and more that I opened the doors to another future that runs against all falsehood, all fanaticism.” His worlds are at times fantastical, apparently simple, filled with seemingly impossible juxtapositions that are always enchanting, spectacular, worlds from this artist who once said, “For me a painting should be like sparks. It should dazzle you like the beauty of a woman or a poem.” - P.V. Showing through to February 4th 3 ave du Général Eisenhower (8th), 01 44 13 17 17

Rooms full of Jacksons, Michael Jackson The Grand Palais in Paris is paying tribute to one of the great cultural figures who emerged out of the 20th century in an exhibition entitled Michael Jackson: On the Wall. The show offers an exploration of the cultural impact of Michael Jackson’s stardom and musical work on the world of contemporary art from the 1980s to the present day. The artist remains one of the most influential cultural figures to have emerged from the 20th century and his legacy lives on into the 21st century.

Since Andy Warhol first used his image in 1982, a range of contemporary artists across the generations and the continents have done the same and the show brings together the works of over 40 of these artists emanating from public and private collections around the world all the while including new works made especially for the exhibition. The works presented have been created in myriad mediums including painting, drawing, sculpture, photography, video and performance. - P.V. Showing through to February 17th 3 ave Général Eisenhower (8th), 01 44 13 17 17 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 55

GALERIE TAMÉNAGA IMPRESSIONIST, MODERN & CONTEMPORARY ART

Bernard Buffet, L’Oiseau rouge, 1959, 240 x 280 cm MODERN MASTERS : Bonnard, Buffet, Chagall, Dufy, Kisling, Laurencin, Marquet, Picasso, Redon, Rouault, Van Dongen, Utrillo, Vlaminck CONTEMPORARY ARTISTS : Aïzpiri, Cassigneul, Tom Christopher, Cottavoz, Lorenzo Fernandez, Fusaro, Chen Jiang-Hong, Kengo Nakamura, Takehiko Sugawara, Tchinaï, Tamihito Yoshikawa

18 avenue Matignon, Paris 8th M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Tel: 01 42 66 61 94 www.tamenaga.com

Olwen Forest

Made in Madagascar

Olwen Forest, a woman of vision, invites you to see her collection of vintage artist jewellery worn yesterday, and sought after today by famous stars and celebrities.

Coco Chanel, Schiaparelli, Joseff of Hollywood, Hermès Gentlemen will be dazzled by the extremely rare cocktail accessories from the 1930s.

MARCHÉ SERPETTE - Allée 3, stand 5/7 110 rue des Rosiers, 93400 St-Ouen (Metro: Porte de Clignancourt) Open : Saturday, Sunday, Monday

Tel: 01 40 11 96 38

www.olwenforest.com

56 W HE R E PA R I S I D E C E M B E R 2018

The Musée du Quai Branly-Jacques Chirac is presenting a major exhibition, showcasing the arts of the island of Madagascar, entitled Madagascar, the Arts of the Big Island. It brings together 360 pieces chosen for their historical, aesthetic and ethnological interest and which as an ensemble trace the art history of Madagascar. The master works, emblematic pieces and rare documents offer the visitor a glimpse into the many facets of the art, history and culture of an island that remains largely unknown. Day to day objects like hair ornaments, protective amulets or funerary objects offer a look into everyday life. The show is divided into three sections with the first devoted to placing Madagascar within the context of space and time, for the island already in the 16th century was a cultural crossroads. The second and third sections take a look at, respectively, the art of the world of the living and the art of the world of the invisible and the dead. - P.V. Showing through to January 1st 37 Quai Branly (7th), 01 56 61 70 00

Roberto Matta, La question, 1958, technique mixte sur toile / terre colorée sur toile de jute, 202 x 287 cm

JEWELLERY OF THE STARS

FERNANDO BOTERO Three Clowns Horse, 2007, oil on canvas

62 rue du faubourg Saint-HonorĂŠ, 75008 Paris | + 33 (0)1 42 96 39 00 | paris@operagallery.com | operagallery.com New York Miami Aspen London Paris Monaco Geneva Zurich Dubai Beirut Hong Kong Singapore Seoul

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Exhibitions

t was back in 1991 that a venue opened up in Montmartre showcasing a private collection of some 300 works, sculptures, engravings, objects and furnishings by Salvador Dalí offering a unique glimpse into the work and world of the Surrealist sculptor, designer, engraver and illustrator. Dalí Paris re-opened its doors to the public last April offering a new journey into the world of the artist and enabling the public to discover the art dealer and collector, Beniamino Levi, who assembled the collection, which remains the only permanent exhibition in France, devoted to Dalí, the master of Surrealism.

Beniamino Levi, an eminent Italian gallery owner started putting the collection together in the 1970s. Upon returning to Milan after the Second World War, he frequented actors in the effervescent artistic scene, notably Lucio Fontana and Alberto Burri and became friends with the art critic Franco Passoni with whom he opened the Galleria Levi in Milan. He first met Dalí in 1974 in his suite at the Meurice hotel where Dalí and his wife Gala resided during their Parisian sojourns. Levi would first purchase two paintings, the 1932 Egg on the Dish without the Dish and The Invisible Harp done in 1934, which he exhibited in his gallery in Milan. After additional encounters in Paris, New York and Dalí’s home in Cadaquès in Spain, the collector launched into a new challenge, editing the 58 W HE R E PA R I S I D E C E M B E R 2018

sculptures of Dalí and he would progressively acquire the rights to 29 images taken from the artist’s most celebrated paintings including the Persistence of Memory, the Temptation of Saint Anthony and The Burning Giraffe, giving him the possibility of having bronzes made from models conceived by the artist. The bronze sculptures of these images were cast in Switzerland at the legendary Perseo Foundry, which casts the work of Alberto Giacometti and Fernando Botero.

Today, Dalí Paris, which has been given a redesign by the architect and scenographer Adeline Rispal offers a meander through the artist’s works and allows the visitor to embark on a non-exhaustive journey into the artistic path taken by Dalí and revealing a not so well known segment of his work while putting the spotlight on his technique and creativity. The museum segways into a gallery and while the museum presents rare sculptures, the gallery offers these works in different sizes and patinas for collectors in limited editions.

The venue also hosts exhibits devoted to contemporary artists and little known aspects of Dalí’s work in a dedicated gallery space. The current exhibition features two literary themes with Dalí Paris paying tribute to the French Surrealist poet Guillaume Apollinaire, who died

100 years ago, with an exhibition putting a contemporary spotlight on his Poèmes Secrets (Secret Poems), which were illustrated by Dalí.

The 21 drypoints on copper that Dalí made for the opera Faust in the version translated by Gérard de Nerval are being presented in a pared down and modern display. - P.V. Dalí Paris 11 rue Poulbot (18th), 01 42 64 40 10

Salvador Dali, Gala & Beniamino Levi, dans les années 70. Archives Personnelles de M. Levi; Persistance de la Mémoire, Salvador Dali © IAR; Femme en flamme, Salvador Dali © IAR

I

A Discovery of DALÍ

Photographie Robert Descharnes © Descharnes et Descharnes SARL 2018

SALVADOR DALI Regarder, c’est inventer

MUSEE A MONTMARTRE

11 RUE POULBOT 75018 PARIS 7/7 10:00 - 18:00

2 MIN. PLACE DU TERTRE ANVERS / ABBESSES

BOOK ON LINE / RESERVATION EN LIGNE

daliparis.com

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Exhibitions

Colours versus Colours An enticing exhibition, which is composed of an immersive video, is being played out at the Atelier des Lumières. The macro video entitled Colours x Colours is the fruit of a collaboration between two contemporary artists, Thomas Blanchard and Oilhack, and takes the form of a 24-minute video projected on the ensemble of the studio space of this venue dedicated to immersive art. The show proposes a new take on paintings and its techniques and through the six-part video visitors immerse themselves into paintings and discover the various natural reactions of materials used in paintings. The video captures the movements that occur within artistic creations when painted in acrylic paint, oil paint or soap through the use of high optical magnification. - P.V.

The Good Earth Roberto Matta was one of Chile’s best-known painters and a leading figure in 20th century abstract expressionist and surrealist art.

Six fundamental works by Matta are being presented for the first time in a gallery at the Galerie Diane de Polignac in Paris in a show entitled Roberto Matta: Les Terres (The Earths). The exhibition showcases a series of works elaborated between the 1950s and 1970s with earths that were naturally pigmented and applied on jute canvases. Matta was a tireless traveller and it was in his exploration of the world that one finds the origins of Les Terres and this particular type of painting. Painter, architect, sculptor, visionary, Roberto Matta was one of the most emblematic figures in the art world of the second half of the 20th century. “You paint on an easel, you are still painting what you see. You need to put the canvas on the floor and paint what you feel,” the artist said. - P.V. Showing through to December 21st 2bis rue de Gribeauval (7th), 01 83 06 79 90 60 W H E R E PA R I S I D E C E M B E R 2018

© Colours x Colours Thomas Blanchard/Oilhack; Roberto Matta, La question, 1958, technique mixte sur toile / terre colorée sur toile de jute, 202 x 287 cm

Showing through to January 6th 38 rue Saint-Maur (11th), 01 80 98 46 00

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

The Courage of CLEMENCEAU

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o mark the 100th anniversary of the end of World War I, a show is being played out at the Panthéon offering a look into one of the leading figures in the history of France and a major contributor to the Allied victory in the Great War, Georges Clemenceau. The exhibition, entitled Clemenceau, the Courage of the Republic, takes a look at the life and times of Georges Clemenceau, writer, statesman and a key figure in and a founder of France’s Third Republic, on the occasion of the Clemenceau Year and the 100th anniversary of the end of World War I. The show brings together some 140 objects including personal objects and papers, family archives, correspondence, photographs and works of art like the portrait of the statesman by Edouard Manet. This journey into the life of the statesman is a chronological one starting with his youth, entitled a Vendéen Comes to Paris, in reference to his region of origin, the Vendée, a coastal region in western France. This segment takes a look at his childhood, his medical studies and his first articles published in the press.

The second segment entitled Mr Member of Parliament looks primarily at his political career from 1870 to 1880 with mandates as the mayor of Montmartre and a congressman representing Paris. Nicknamed the tiger, the next section is fittingly entitled The Tiger and his Battles, which covers the period from 1884 to 1906 and explores Clemenceau’s fight against colonisation, for human rights, notably within the context of the Dreyfus Affair, and against the insecurity and disorder in the Republic.

The pre-war and war years are covered in the The Father of the Victory section when he was named to the presidency of the governing council.

Clemenceau and the Arts plunges the visitor into his private life in his home in the countryside in Saint-Vincent-sur-Jard evoked through landscapes, windows and living room furniture. The show winds up with his posterity. Reading and listening spaces punctuate the exhibition enabling visitors to discover the writing talent of this historical figure.

A separate path through the monument looks at his relationship to the Panthéon, although he does not repose there, many of his contemporaries do, Gambetta, Hugo, Jaurès, and it was Clemenceau who had the ashes of Emile Zola transferred to his place of rest in the Panthéon. The show is being jointly presented by the Centre des Monuments Nationaux and the Fondation du Musée Clemenceau. - P.V. Showing from October 30th through to February 10th Daily 10am-6pm, closed December 25th 6 Place du Panthéon (5th), 01 44 32 18 00 www.paris-pantheon.fr 62 W H ER E PA R I S I D E C E M B E R 2018

Paul François Arnold Cardon dit Dornac, Georges Clemenceau dans son cabinet de travail, rue Franklin, Paris, 27 septembre 1898 © Paris, musée Clemenceau; René Rousseau Decelle, Georges Clemenceau annonçant l’Armistice le 11 novembre 1918 à la tribune de la chambre des députés, huile sur toile © Paris, musée Clemenceau

Exhibitions

WHERE PARIS PROMOTION

A MOVING JOURNEY

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©Théâtre du Temple

he wonderful world of cinema can be discovered right in Paris at La Cinémathèque française, home to one of the finest collections and archives in the world devoted to film. It was back in 1936 that Henri Langlois, a French film archivist, cinephile and a pioneer in film preservation, created La Cinémathèque française to save from destruction films, projection machines, costumes, posters and other cinematic treasures. He would be given an Honorary Oscar in 1974, “for his untiring devotion to the art of film, for his massive contributions towards preserving its historical past and for his unswerving faith in its future.”

Eight decades later the world of cinema that Langlois endeavoured to conserve lives on in a light-filled modern building designed by Frank O. Gehry in which the world of motion pictures is revealed through a museum, exhibitions, projections, a film library and bookshop. It offers a complete cinematic experience for film lovers and is a perfect place for neophytes to discover cinema of the world, of all ages and of all genres.

Visitors enter the Gehry building, which is built around a monumental hall that is thoroughly drenched by incoming light and outfitted with large bay windows and small balconies, and within will discover collections where over 40,000 films, 3000 costumes, 23,000 posters, 14,000 drawings and 2,300 objects are conserved. For conservation, restoration and enrichment are the missions of La

Cinémathèque française, which lends as much importance to non-film objects (archives, books, projection machines and cameras, accessories and costumes), as it does to films.

La Cinémathèque’s Musée du Cinéma exhibits some 600 objects enabling visitors to journey over three centuries into the universe of animated images. Magic Lanterns, optical boxes as well as costumes worn by, among others, Vivien Leigh and Greta Garbo, are on hand as well as a host of extraordinary objects, notably the robot from Metropolis by Fritz Lang and the head of Mrs Bates in Psycho by Alfred Hitchcock.

Temporary exhibitions devoted to major figures in film are regularly presented as well. The Italian film director, producer and screenwriter Sergio Leone is being showcased in an exhibition entitled Il était une fois Sergio

Leone (Once Upon a Time: Sergio Leone) which is running from October 10th, 2018 through to January 27th, 2019 while the exhibition Fellini/ Picasso will be on from April 3rd, 2019 through to July 28th, 2019.

Some 40 films are projected each week at La Cinémathèque française in the establishment’s four movie theatres with programmes revolving around major directors, actors and technicians but also the young generation of filmmakers.

A host of activities including conferences and master classes are also organised around the projection programmes. There is also an excellent restaurant serving homemade dishes using seasonal products.

51 rue de Bercy (12th), 01 71 19 33 33 www.cinematheque.fr

The Good, the Bad and the Ugly Ugly, Sergio Le one, 1966 w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 63

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Monuments

Arc de Triomphe

The triumphal arch commissioned by Napoleon and finished in 1836 stands in the centre of the Place Charles de Gaulle and boasts a fabulous view of the Champs-Elysées and includes the tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Visit the interactive exhibit on the history surrounding the Arch.

Open daily 10am-10:30pm, times may vary, last admission 45 minutes before closing, Adults 12€, Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26: Free.

Closed December 25th www.paris-arc-de-triomphe.fr Place Charles de Gaulle (8th), 01 55 37 73 77.

M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile

lights every hour on the hour from twilight to 2am. From Jun 15 through Sept 1 9am-12:45am (stairs and lifts, last admission stairs, last lift midnight). From Sept 2 through Jun 14 lift open daily 9:30am-11:00pm, From Sept 2 through Jun 14 stairs open daily 9:30am-6:30pm. Last entries 45 minutes before closing. Entry fee (10-25€ for adults) depends on how high you go. There is a glass floor on the first floor 57 metres above Paris and a champagne bar is on the top of the tower, open from 12 to 10pm. www.tour-eiffel.fr Ave Gustave Eiffel (7th), 01 44 11 23 23.

M° Trocadéro

Arc de Triomphe

Eiffel Tower

LA CONCIERGERIE

NOTRE-DAME CATHEDRAL

A medieval royal residence with Gothic halls, used as a prison in the Revolution. Daily 9:30am-6pm, times may vary, last tickets, 30 minutes before closing time. Adults 9€, Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26, free. Closed December 25th www.paris-conciergerie.fr 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 80. M° Cité

EIFFEL TOWER Built as a temporary exhibit for the 1889 World’s Fair, the iron structure now symbolises Paris the world over. The tower sparkles with twinkling

La Conciergerie 64 W HE R E PA R I S I D E C E M B E R 2018

Constructed between 1163 and 1345, it is a Gothic masterpiece. Free guided tours in English Wed and Thurs at 2pm & Sat at 2:30pm.

Experience Quasimodo’s view of Paris from the towers Apr-Sept 10am-6:30pm weekdays; Oct-Mar 10am-5:30pm; Sat-Sun; Jul-Aug until 11pm on Fri & Sat. Last tickets 45 minutes before closing. An on-site interactive display or the application Jefile lets you envisage the wait for visiting the towers and to reserve your time. 10€. www.tours-notre-dame-de-paris.fr

Notre-Dame Cathedral

6 Parvis Notre- Dame (4th), 01 42 34 56 10 .

M° Cité

PALAIS GARNIER–OPERA DE PARIS Designed by architect Charles Garnier, and a brilliant example of Second Empire architecture.

Daily visits on your own, 10am-4:30pm (adults 11€, students and under 25, 7€). For more information: 08 92 89 90 90. Guided tours in English daily at 11am and 2:30pm (15.50€).

For additional information on guided tours call 08 25 05 44 05.

Place de l’Opéra (9th). M° Opéra

Palais Garnier - Opéra de Paris

SAINTE CHAPELLE A jewel-like chapel on the Ile de la Cité in the courtyard of the Palais de Justice with High Gothic stained glass windows, at its finest on days when there isn’t a cloud in the sky.

Jan-Mar 9am-5pm; Apr-Sept 9am-7pm; Oct-Dec 9am-5pm, last tickets 30 minutes before closing time. 10€. Combined ticket with La Conciergerie 15€. Free for children under 18 and EU citizens under 26. Closed December 25th. www.sainte-chapelle.fr 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 97. M° Cité

Sainte Chapelle

Photos iStock 2018 : Arc de Triomphe © pawel.gaul; Arc de Triomphe © demirozyurt; La Conciergerie © Vitaly Edush; Eiffel Tower © Neirfy; Notre-Dame Cathedral © Deejpilot; Opéra Palais Garnier © www.jaspe.info; Sainte-Chapelle © dennisvdw

ARC DE TRIOMPHE

WHERE PARIS PROMOTION

FANTASTIC CHINESE LANTERN FESTIVAL

in the gardens of the Chateau de Thoiry

W

here east meets west in the Yvelines 40 km west of Paris! On 35 sites in the Thoiry estate’s French and woodland gardens, 50 artists and technicians arrived directly from China have installed 600 gigantic Chinese lanterns in the form of exotic animals, a 70 meter long dragon, flowers, temples, insects, and even a copy of Thoiry’s chateau .

Chateau de Thoiry, 78770 France Access: A13, A 12, N12, Exit Montfort-Méré, D76, D11 Thoiry ZooSafari www.thoiry.net

Thoiry “Lumieres Sauvages “ Adult: 19.90€ - Child: 17.90€ Ticket sales online: www.billetterie.thoiry.net Reservations Thoiry Chateau VIP Dinners: Travel Agents or email: alp@thoiry.net

One of the most impressive is the representation of the Blue Temple in Beijing, over 22 meters high, it is taller than Thoiry Castle. You will enjoy also the theatre production of the Masks of Sichuan and the Arts Market with artists and craftsmen creating their traditional Chinese arts before your eyes!

This enchanting Lantern Festival is open for the delight of visitors from sunset 4 nights a week from Sunday, October 28, 2018 to Sunday, March 10, 2019. On several afternoons, special activities for children are also offered.

And that’s not all! On certain evenings in Thoiry Castle’s magnificent Tapestry Salon, VIP guests may enjoy a dinner with the famous Count de La Panouse, a frequent guest on radio and television. w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 65

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ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

Find all these listings and more at parismap.fr AREAS & MARKETS Paris Flea Market

Also known as the Puces de Saint-Ouen or Clignancourt from its location north of Montmartre, this is the city’s largest and most famous flea market, offering everything from used books and leather jackets to precious antique jewellery and Louis XVI furniture, in a series of different markets. Don’t be put off by the rows of tacky stands under the overpass; the real Flea Market lies beyond them. Sat-Mon 9:30 am-6:30pm.

142 rue des Rosiers, St-Ouen (10-minute walk from Porte de Clignancourt)

Carré Rive Gauche

This group of antique dealers and art galleries in the 6th and 7th arrondissements presents fine works, special exhibitions and exceptional pieces throughout the year. Many of the galleries are specialised in the decorative arts while the venues offer visitors a journey into 7,000 years of art history.

Located on the Left Bank on and around the Quai Voltaire, rue de l’Université, rue du Bac, rue de Verneuil, rue de Lille, rue de Beaune and rue des Saints-Pères (7th)

ART GALLERIES Galerie Bartoux Elysées

Galerie Richard Orlinski

This light-filled gallery replete with a garden is entirely devoted to the colourful sculptures and works of the leading contemporary French artist Richard Orlinski. It is an inviting place to discover not only his Born Wild series of animal sculptures, but his other works as well. 68 rue du Fbg SaintHonoré (8th), 01.47.42.28.83. M° Saint-Philippe-du-Roule

Académie Équestre de Versailles

Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie

Created by Bartabas in 2003, the Versailles Equestrian Academy is both a school and a theatre troupe. The current show, La voie de l’écuyer opus 2018, features fencing on horseback, improvisation and other surprises.

Shows are held on Saturdays at 6pm and Sundays at 3pm. Avenue Rockefeller, Versailles. 01.39.02.62.70.

RER C to Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche

Situated in the heart of La Villette Park, the science and industry museum houses a wide number of activities and exhibitions. La Géode-a giant hemispheric dome that shows films in 360°. La Cité des Enfants-interactive spaces (2-7 yrs & 5-12 yrs) are specifically designed to initiate children’s senses. 30 ave Corentin Cariou (19th), 01.40.05.80.00. M° Porte de la Villette

Atelier des Lumières

Disneyland Paris

Galerie Olwen Forest

Discover the world of the sea at this delightful aquarium. Daily 10am-7pm, first Sat of the month until 10pm, last tickets one hour before closing.

5 ave Albert de Mun (16th), 01.40.69.23.23. M° Iéna

Impressionist and modern paintings by masters including Cézanne, Renoir, Bonnard, Klee, Chagall and Picasso, as well as contemporary international art including a romantic ensemble

by Jean Pierre Cassigneul. Tues-Sat 11am-7pm.

18 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.66.61.94. Mon-Sat. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

ACADÉMIE ÉQUESTRE DE VERSAILLES | Attractions 66 W HE RE PA R I S I D E C E M B E R 2018

Catacombes de Paris

ATTRACTIONS

Modern Masters: Botero, Chagall, Léger, Calder and Picasso, and a selection of contemporary artists: Brasilier, Corda, Mach, Kusama and Joe Black. Art pieces exhibited in a gallery space ideally situated in the Triangle d’Or. Open Mon to Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11:30am-7pm. 62 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.96.39.00. M° Concorde

A digital art centre where giant reproductions of the art world’s Masters’ works are projected. The first exhibition is dedicated to Klimt. Open from 10am to 6pm and until 10pm on Fridays and Saturdays. 38 rue Saint-Maur (11th), M° Père Lachaise

Galerie Tamenaga

This trendy Parisian neighbourhood has a wide array of bars, restaurants and eclectic shops lining the sides of this functioning canal which links the Villette basin to the Arsenal port. Quai de Jemmapes/Quai de Valmy (10th). M° République The catacombs of Paris house the remains of several million Parisians whose bones were transferred to these underground quarries from Parisian cemeteries in the 18th and 19th centuries. The visit is not recommended for pregnant women, people with heart or respiratory problems or suffering from claustrophobia and children under 14 must be accompanied by adults. The 2 km one-way visit ends at 21bis ave René Coty (14th). Tues-Sun 10am-8:30pm. 1 ave du Colonel Henri Roi-Tanguy (place Denfert-Rochereau) (14th). M° Denfert-Rochereau

Opera Gallery

A contemporary art gallery on the ChampsElysées presenting paintings and sculptures by internationally renowned artists. Open seven days a week. 5 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.66.36.63.

Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt Gallery exhibiting vintage costume, couture jewels and Art Deco crystal jewellery, as well as jewells created by designers such as Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel. Jewellery made for the cinema and a selection of vintage jewels telling the story of rock and roll. Permanent exhibition Erotica/ Exotica, featuring vintage pieces juxtaposing the two themes. From Sat-Mon. St-Ouen Flea Market, Marché Serpette, 110 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen.

01.40.11.96.38. M° Porte de Clignancourt

Canal Saint-Martin

Aquarium de Paris (Cinéaqua)

Aquarium Tropical du Palais de la Porte Dorée This aquarium on the eastern edge of Paris is devoted to tropical flora and fauna and houses a collection of some 15,000 animals representing some 750 species in attractive spaces. Tues-Fri 10am-5:30pm & Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. 293 ave Daumesnil (12th), 01.53.59.58.60. M° Porte Dorée

Ballon de Paris

Fly over Paris in a hot air balloon that also measures the level of pollution in the atmosphere.

The balloon can fly up to 150 metres into the Parisian sky. Flights are dependent upon the weather so it is preferable to call ahead on the day.

Daily, 9am to the closing time of the Parc André Citroën where the balloon is located. 2 rue Cauchy (15th), 01.44.26.20.00. M° Javel

With 2 Disney Parks, filled with more than 50 attractions, shows and parades, a day at Disneyland Paris will set pulses racing among even the most seasoned thrill-seeker. Around 35 min from Paris by train (Nation station), RER A to Marne-la-Vallée/Chessy

Flight Experience Paris

You can pilot a Boeing 737 in a state of the art flight simulator. Under the guidance of a qualified instructor, you can take off, climb, cruise and land. You can choose your route and flying time from several different flight packages. 21 quai d’Austerlitz (13th), M° Quai de la Gare

FlyView

Enjoy a bird’s eye view of Paris with this virtual reality experience located in the heart of the French capital. Participants don a virtual reality helmet jetpack and enter a simulator to virtually fly over the city for a spectacular view of the capital and its iconic monuments. Suitable for children aged 8 and over. 30 rue du 4 Septembre, Place de l’Opéra (2nd). M° Opéra

France Miniature

This fun and educational park presents all of the major sites and monuments of France in miniature.

The six major regions of France are covered with

CITÉ DES SCIENCES ET DE L’INDUSTRIE | Attractions

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

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some 117 monuments and 2,000 scale models on view in spacious settings. Blvd André Malraux, 78990 Elancourt, 01.30.16.16.30. Take the A13 highway direction Versailles/Saint-Quentin-en-Yvelines then the A12 direction Dreux, exit at Elancourt

Grande Arche

This stunning monument listed as 20th century heritage is situated in the heart of the business district, La Défense. Its rooftop offers a 360-degree panoramic view of the city and it houses exhibition spaces devoted to photojournalism exhibitions on the 35th floor. 1 parvis de la Défense, 92044 Paris La Défense, 01.40.90.52.20. M° La Défense Grande Arche

A sleek “shuttle boat” making 8 stops including the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, the Jardin des Plantes and the Town Hall. 10:30am-7pm. 01.76.64.79.12

Vedettes du Pont Neuf

These hour cruises on the Seine offer a discovery of the city’s leading monuments.10:30am-noon & 1:30pm-10:30pm, boats 30 min apart. Square du Vert Galant (1st), 01.46.33.98.38. M° Pont Neuf

The urban legends of Paris come to life in this haunted manor house and listed historic monument. Fri 6pm-10pm & Sat, Sun 3pm-7pm.

18 rue de Paradis (10th), M° Château d’Eau

River Limousine

Take in a private cruise on the Seine on board a custom-built luxurious boat replete with a salon and a bottle of champagne. Reservations required. 06.86.07.87.37

Parc Zoologique de Paris

This beautiful zoo presents in 16 natural environments some 1,000 animals, birds, mammals, reptiles, amphibians and fish representing 180 species. Entrance located at the corner of the ave Daumesnil and the Route de Ceinture du lac Daumesnil (12th), M° Château de Vincennes then 46 bus to zoo.

Vedettes de Paris

Offering one-hour cruises departing from the Eiffel Tower. 10:30am-10pm, boats 30 min apart.

Special theme cruises also available including a champagne tasting cruise. Port de Suffren (7th), 01.44.18.19.50. M° Bir Hakeim/RER C Champs de Mars

Rex Studios

DAY TRIPS

Travel into the heart of cinema in this iconic theatre for a unique and interactive visit into the magical world of cinema and into the backstage of the largest movie theatre in Europe. The venue offers fabulous fun and entertainment for the whole family where one and all can take on the roles of alternatively actor, spectator or even director. 5 blvd Poissonnière (2nd), 01.45.08.93.40.

M° Bonne Nouvelle

Thoiry Zoo Safari

Château de Fontainebleau

A residence of the French kings from the 12th to the 19th century, this royal château is famous for its superb Renaissance decor by Italian artists. WedMon 9:30am-5pm. 01.60.71.50.70. SNCF Grandes Lignes from Gare de Lyon to Fontainebleau-Avon (40 min), then a short bus or shuttle ride from the station.

Château de Versailles

This exceptional venue presents myriad, emblematic animals from all over the world in its original zoo and safari park in a beautiful setting complete with botanical gardens. Visitors can also visit the castle, which has been inhabited by the de La Panouse family for 13 generations (castle visit is closed in the winter months). Rue du Pavillon de Montreuil, 78770 Thoiry, 01.34.87.40.67

BOAT CRUISES Giant glass-roofed tour boats departing every hour on the hour, 10am-10pm (except 1pm & 7:30pm).

Lunch and dinner cruises also available. Port de la Bourdonnais (7th), 08.25.01.01.01. M° Trocadéro SCAN TO DISCOVER!

DIGITAL MAP

The legendary company has been offering cruises on the Seine river for decades. Doubledeck boats provide an unusual approach to Paris monuments. Departures every 45 min, 11am-9pm.

For dinner cruises please see the Dining section.

Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. M° Alma-Marceau

Batobus

Le Manoir de Paris

Bateaux Parisiens

Bateaux-Mouches

Louis XIV’s magnificent palace, with the Hall of Mirrors, Grands Appartements and Le Nôtre’s superb gardens. The Chateau is open Tue-Sun 9am-6:00pm. Gardens open daily 8 am to sunset; free. Avenue Rockefeller. 01.30.83.78.00. RER C to Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche

Château et Domaine de Chantilly

North of Paris, a 16th century royal château with a beautiful park and a fabulous art collection.

Mon-Sun 10:30am-5pm. 03.44.57.40.40. SNCF at the Gare du Nord (25 min) or RER D to Chantilly– Gouvieux (45 min) then take the free bus no. 15 marked “Senlis” to the château.

Château de Vaux le Vicomte

This unique estate with its 17th century castle and formal French gardens is one of the most

beautiful in France. The castle’s vast French gardens, punctuated by fountains and water basins, are regarded as royal gardener Andre Le Nôtre’s masterwork. By car 55 km from Paris.

Maincy 77950, 01.64.14.41.90

Giverny

Enter into the world of the Impressionists in this dreamy village west of Paris where Claude Monet arrived in 1883. Monet’s home, gardens and the immortalized water lily ponds remain, all opened to the public at the Fondation Claude Monet.

84 rue Claude Monet, SNCF from the Gare St. Lazare to Gare de Vernon, 45 minutes, then the No. 240 bus to Giverny. 02.32.51.28.21

Musée National du Château de Malmaison

This delightful 17th century castle on the outskirts of Paris was the rural home of Josephine and Napoleon Bonaparte. 10am-12:30pm/13:30pm5:45pm/Until 6:15pm Sat & Sun. Closed Tues.

Ave du Château de Malmaison. Metro or RER to la Défense then bus 258 to the stop Château

GARDENS Jardin des Tuileries

This vast park filled with peaceful wide alleyways for strolling and an octagonal water basin offers a place for a promenade between the Pyramide du Louvre and the Place de la Concorde. Sculptures

by Maillol, Rodin, Dubuffet and Louise Bourgeois are among the jewels set in these refreshing gardens. Jardin des Tuileries (1st), M° Concorde

Jardin du Luxembourg

These lovely gardens were built upon the initiative of Queen Marie de Medici in 1612. They are composed of both English and French gardens, a large pond an orchard of old vintage fruit trees and an apiary. Activities for adults include chess, tennis and remote control boats while children can a puppet theatre, rides and slides. Rue de Médicis - Rue de Vaugirard (6th), M° Odéon

GUIDED TOURS L’Open Tour Paris

Open-topped buses and over 50 stops. Buy tickets on board, at hotels, or at their boutique office.

13 rue Auber (9th), 01.42.66.56.56. M° Opéra

Paris Authentic

This is a unique Parisian concept for personal sightseeing tours and excursions in traditional French 2cv cars. Be picked up anywhere in Paris and the Parisian drivers of Paris Authentic take you for an unusual discovery of their city. 06.64.50.44.19

Paris City Vision

City tours, day and evening excursions, trips to

PARIS

IS ONLY A CLICK AWAY www.parismap.fr RETRO TOUR | Guided Tours w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 67

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Address Book

the Loire and other regions. 214 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.60.00. M° Tuileries

Retro Tour

Discover Paris on board a genuine sidecar and motorcycle with a private guided tour from Retro Tour, accompanied by your Gentleman Sider guide and driver dressed in Chevignon classic clothing.

Several tours, which can carry one or two people, are available and you can also customize your tour.

01.85.39.07.07

MUSEUMS & FOUNDATIONS Centre Georges Pompidou

France’s top modern art museum, with some 56,000 works by more than 5000 artists. WedMon 11am-9pm (last tickets 8pm). Place Georges Pompidou (4th), 01.44.78.12.33. M° Rambuteau

Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine

The Palais de Chaillot now houses the Museum collection of French Monuments as part of the permanent collection in the Pavillon de Tête, while the temporary exhibits are housed in the left wing of the Pavillon d’About. Mon, Wed, Fri 12pm - 8pm, Thur 12pm-10pm, Sat-Sun 11am-7pm. Palais de Chaillot, 1 Place du Trocadero et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.58.51.52.00. M° Trocadéro

Dali Paris

In the heart of Montmartre, this venue is entirely devoted to the master of Surrealism, Salvador Dali and houses a private collection of more than 300 of his works including sculptures, engravings, objects and furniture, offering a journey into Dali’s life and work. Daily 10am-6pm. 11 rue Poulbot (18th), 01.42.64.40.10. M° Abbesses/Anvers

Fondation Cartier pour l’Art Contemporain A contemporary art centre designed by Jean Nouvel with an excellent book shop and lovely garden. Tue 11am-10pm, Wed-Sun 11am-8pm.

261 blvd Raspail (14th), 01.42.18.56.50. M° Raspail

Fondation Louis Vuitton

Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais

National art galleries in the glass-roofed exhibit hall built for the 1900 World’s Fair. Thu-Mon 10am-8pm, Wed to 10pm. 3 ave Général Eisenhower (8th), 01.44.13.17.17. M° Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau

La Cinémathèque Française - Musée du Cinéma In a wonderful Frank Gehry-designed building, this is a cinema museum with screening rooms for international film classics, all shown in their original language. The permanent collection takes a look at cinema and its history through an impressive collection of films, objects, archives, cameras and costumes. 51 rue de Bercy (12th), 01.71.19.33.33. M° Bercy

La Maison de Victor Hugo

This museum located in a splendid private mansion on the Place des Vosges is devoted to the French writer, statesman and artist Victor Hugo who once lived there. The museum’s collections include drawings by Victor Hugo, manuscripts, statues and paintings as well as photographs and furnishings. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 6 Place des Vosges (4th), 01.42.72.10.16. M° Saint-Paul

Les Docks - Cité de la Mode et du Design

This cultural institution located on the banks of the Seine showcases creation, fashion and design. Housed in a spectacular contemporary building, the centre’s programme includes special exhibitions, art and trade shows and designers in residence. 34 Quai d’Austerlitz (13th), 01.76.77.25.30. M° Gare d’Austerlitz

MAD

A semi-private museum with a fabulous collection of decorative arts-furniture, housewares, ceramics and porcelain, paintings and objets d’art, dating from the late Middle Ages to 21st century design, including a dozen sumptuously furnished period rooms. Tue-Fri 11am-6pm, Sat-Sun 10am-6pm, Thu until 9pm.

107 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.57.50. M° Palais Royal

Mona Bismarck American Center

This cultural institution in the Bois de Boulogne is devoted to contemporary art and creation.

Exhibition spaces display permanent collections and temporary exhibitions. 8 ave du Mahatma Gandhi (16th), 01.40.69.96.10. M° Sablons

The center is positioned to be the premier venue for American art and artists in the cultural capital of Europe – Paris. Its mission is to engage international audiences in a compelling dialogue with American culture of the 20th and 21st centuries. 34 ave de New York (16th), M° Iéna

Institut Giacometti

Monnaie de Paris - Musée du 11 Conti

This venue is devoted to exhibitions, art history, research and education offering a new look on the work of Alberto Giacometti and the period during which he created. It is operated by the Giacometti Foundation, which possesses the largest collection of works by Alberto Giacometti in the world. Visits must be reserved online at www.fondation-giacometti.fr/institut. 5 rue Victor Schoelcher (14th), 01.44.54.52.44. M° Raspail

Institut du Monde Arabe

Designed by architect Jean Nouvel, a cultural center and museum of Arab and Islamic arts. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm; Library: Tues-Sat 1pm-8pm. 1 rue des Fossés-Saint-Bernard (5th), 01.40.51.38.38. M° Jussieu

DALI PARIS | Museums & Foundations 68 W H E R E PA R I S I D E C E M B E R 2018

This beautiful building on the Seine was home to the French mint. Today craftsmen continue to fashion medals, official decorations and collector’s coins. Tues-Sun 11am-7pm, Wed 11am-9pm. 11 Quai de Conti (6th), 01.40.46.56.66.

M° Pont Neuf

Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaisme

A beautiful museum of Jewish art and history in a 17th century mansion. Mon-Fri 11am-6pm, Sun 10am-6pm. Hôtel de Saint-Aignan, 71 rue du Temple (3rd), 01.53.01.86.60. M° Hôtel de Ville

Musée des Arts et Métiers

A marvelous display of some 3,000 scientific and technological discoveries and inventions

through the centuries, including Pascal’s 1642 calculator and Foucault’s 1855 pendulum. TueSun 10 am-6 pm, Thu 10 am- 9:30 pm. 60 rue Réaumur (3rd), 01.53.01.82.00. M° Arts et Métiers

Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris

The city’s modern art museum offers a permanent collection covering the entire 20th century. TueSun 10am-6 pm. 11 ave du Président Wilson (16th), 01.53.67.40.00. M° Alma-Marceau/Trocadéro

Musée de l’Air et de l’Espace

Here you will find 350 authentic aeroplanes, 1,000 scale models, thousands of works of art and one of the finest collections of aircraft in the world ranging from 17th century balloons to the Concorde. TueSun 10am-5pm. Aéroport de Paris-Le Bourget, 93352 Le Bourget, 01.49.92.70.00. Take the number 350 bus from the Gare du Nord directly to the museum.

Musée de l’Armée – Hôtel des Invalides

This historic monument houses a superb military museum while Napoleon’s impressive tomb lies under the golden cupola of the Eglise du Dome. The permanent exhibition draws on a collection of more than 500,000 works, objects and documents from the Bronze Age to the 21st century. Daily 10am-5pm. Hôtel des Invalides, 129 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.44.42.38.77. M° Varenne

Musée Cernuschi

The beautifully appointed 19th century private mansion which belonged to the Italian patriot Henri Cernuschi is home to the city’s museum devoted to the arts of Asia. The permanent collections are housed on the first floor while the ground floor is devoted to temporary exhibitions.

Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 7 ave Vélasquez (8th), 01.53.96.21.50. M° Monceau

Musée Cognacq-Jay

This museum of the city of Paris is devoted mainly to art of the 18th century with the exception of a major work by Rembrandt. Paintings by Canaletto, Tiepolo, Boucher, Fragonard and sculptures by Houdon and Lemoyne along with period furniture, Saxe porcelain and objects worked in silver are housed in a mansion listed as a historic monument located in the Marais. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm.

8 rue Elzévir (3rd), 01.40.27.07.21. M° Saint-Paul

Musée Grévin

A wax museum displaying more than 300 life-sized historical and modern French and international figures. The restored Palais des Mirages plunges the visitor into a giant, mirrored kaleidoscope.

Mon-Fri 10am-6:30pm, Sat-Sun, bank and school holidays 10am-7pm. 10 blvd Montmartre (9th), 01.47.70.85.05. M° Grands Boulevards

Musée Guimet

This museum houses one of the most extensive collections of Asian art in Europe, displaying over 4,000 works of art from the continent’s myriad cultures and civilisations, spanning five millennia.

Daily 10am-6pm, last entrance at 5:30pm, closed Tues. 6 Place d’Iéna (16th), 01.56.52.53.00. M° Iéna/ Boissière

MUSÉE CERNUSCHI | Museums & Foundations

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Musée en Herbe

A superb museum for children (and adults, too) of interactive exhibits and workshops. The boutique, in a fairy tale setting, is filled with books, games and educational toys for all age groups. Opened everyday 10am-7pm. 21 rue Herold (1st), 01.40.67.97.66. M° Palais Royal

Musée de l’Homme

The national anthropological museum houses remarkable, internationally renowned prehistory and anthropological collections offering a glimpse into the human being, his complex nature and evolution from the inception of his appearance on the face of the planet to the present. Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, until 9pm on Wed. 17 Place du Trocadéro et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.44.05.72.72. M° Trocadéro

Musée de la Vie Romantique

A lovely 19th century home and garden with mementos of George Sand and paintings by Ary Scheffer. Tue-Sun 10am-6 pm. 16 rue Chaptal (9th), 01.55.31.95.67. M° Blanche

Musée Jacquemart-André The mansion of 19th century magnate Edouard André and his wife Nélie Jacquemart, whose stunning collection of furniture and art includes an Italian section with works by Mantegna, Uccello and Botticelli. Daily 10am-6pm, Mon & Sat until 9:30pm (for temporary exhibitions only). 158 blvd Haussmann (8th), 01.45.62.11.59. M° Miromesnil

Musée du Louvre

One of the world’s most important art collections, including the Mona Lisa, European painting and sculpture, large-format 19th century French paintings, Greek, Roman and Egyptian antiquities.

Open Wed-Mon 9am-6pm (to 9:45 pm Wed & Fri, reduced price after 6pm). 99 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.40.20.53.17. M° Palais-Royal/Louvre-Rivoli

Musée de la Magie

A fantasy world awaits in this space devoted to magic. Beneath 16th century vaulted cellars are optical illusions, magic art and more. The visit winds up with a superb magic show. Wed, Sat, Sun and school holidays. 2pm-7pm. 11 rue Saint Paul (4th), 01.42.72.13.26. M° Saint-Paul

Musée de Montmartre and Jardins Renoir

The museum on the hill was founded in 1960 and today houses a permanent collection that boasts works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Modigliani and Utrillo. The charming museum is also surrounded by three gardens dedicated to Auguste Renoir, rendering the museum even more exceptional. Open daily from 10am to 6pm. 12-14 rue Cortot (18th), 01.49.25.89. 39. M° Lamarck-Caulaincourt

Musée du Parfum - Fragonard

Discover the world of perfume and perfume making in this delightful museum operated by Fragonard, the legendary Grasse-based perfume and essence maker ensconced in a superb Napoleon III town house. This year Fragonard is

celebrating the lily of the valley. Free. Mon-Sat 9am-6pm, Sun and holidays 9am-5pm. 3-5 square de l’Opéra Louis Jouvet (9th) , 01.40.06.10.09. M° Opéra

Tue-Sun 9:30am-5:45pm, late night Wed until 9pm. Garden closes at 5pm. 79 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.44.18.61.10. M° Varenne

Musée Marmottan Monet

Musée du Vin

Museum National d’Histoire Naturelle

Musée Yves Saint Laurent

A beautiful and delightful museum in a private mansion housing the world’s largest collection of works by Claude Monet. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, Thurs until 8pm. 2 rue Louis Boilly (16th), 01.44.96.50.33. M° La Muette A natural history museum famed for its Grande Galerie de l’Evolution, a stunning display of thousands of animal species. Other galleries house the rich collections of paleontology, comparative anatomy, mineralogy and geology. The galleries and exhibition halls are surrounded by the botanical gardens of Paris and one of the oldest zoological gardens in the world, the Ménagerie.

Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, Sat late night until 8 pm.

Jardin des Plantes, 36 rue Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire (5th), 01.40.79.54.79. M° Censier-Daubenton/Austerlitz

Musée National Jean-Jacques Henner

This museum housed in an elegant 19th century mansion showcases some 300 works, objects and documents tracing the life and career of the 19th century French painter Jean-Jacques Henner. Wed-Mon 11am to 6pm. 43 avenue de Villiers (17th), 01.47.63.42.73. M° Malesherbes

Musée de l’Orangerie

In the heart of Paris in the Tuileries Garden this completely renovated museum allows the visitor to discover the spectacular ensemble of Monet’s Water Lilies in natural lighting as well as the 144 works of art in the Walter-Guillaume Collection (including Renoir, Cézanne, Modigliani, Matisse, Picasso...). Wed-Mon 9am- 6pm. Jardin des Tuileries, entrance Place de la Concorde (1st). M° Concorde

Musée d’Orsay

A dramatically renovated former train station devoted to 19th and 20th century art, including the Impressionists, Manet, Van Gogh and Gauguin. Tue-Sun 9:30am-6pm. 1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur (7th), 01.40.49.48.14. M° Solférino

Musée du Quai Branly - Jacques Chirac

An extensive and dramatically displayed collection of indigenous arts from Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas. Tue, Wed & Sun 11am-7pm, Thur, Fri & Sat 1am-9pm. 37 Quai Branly (7th), 01.56.61.70.00. M° Alma Marceau

Musée Picasso

A major collection of Picasso’s works - paintings, drawings, sculptures, ceramics - displayed in a beautifully restored 17th century mansion in the trendy Marais district. Tues-Fri 11:30am-6pm, Sat & Sun 9:30am-6pm, late night until 9pm, the third Friday of the month. 5 rue Thorigny (3rd), 01.42.71.25.21. M° Saint-Sébastien - Froissart

Musée Rodin

Sculpture by Auguste Rodin, with works by his pupil and muse Camille Claudel, in a former private mansion, with its famous gardens and chapel.

MUSÉE DE L’ORANGERIE | Museums & Foundations

Opened in 1984, the Wine Museum is a cultural center exhibiting the rich and varied collections of French wine housed in one of Paris’ oldest limestone quarries. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm. 5 Square Charles Dickens (16th), 01.45.25.70.89. M° Passy This museum devoted to the French designer Yves Saint Laurent exhibits the couturier’s body of work and is located on the premises of his former haute couture house. Retrospective displays are alternated with temporary thematic exhibitions and by appointment guided tours can be organized.

Tues-Sun 11am-6pm, last tickets at 5:15pm. 5 avenue Marceau (16th), 01.44.31.64.00. M°Alma-Marceau

Palais de la Découverte

This museum and cultural centre geared for both children and adults is devoted to the sciences and hosts temporary exhibitions in addition to its permanent spaces devoted to math, physics and other sciences. Interactive displays, workshops and a planetarium are all on the agenda.Tues-Sat 9:30am to 6pm. Avenue Franklin Roosevelt (8th), 01.56.43.20.20. M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau

Palais de Tokyo

Built in 1937 as the French Modern Art Museum, the Palais is known today as the site of contemporary creation, dedicated to opening the minds of all generations. This is the only museum in Paris to be open until midnight and almost all events are open to the public. From 12 noon to 12 midnight every day except Tuesday. 13 ave du Président Wilson(16th),01.47.23.54.01. M° Iéna

Petit Palais

The city’s fine arts museum, in a beautifully renovated 1900 building. The extensive permanent collection offers a panorama of art from antiquity to the early 20th century.

Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, late night Thurs until 8pm.

Ave Winston Churchill (8th), 01.53.43.40.00.

M° Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau

Philharmonie de Paris - Cité de la Musique

This cultural venue in eastern Paris dedicated to music houses concert halls, exhibition spaces, rehearsal rooms and educational spaces for workshops and conferences. Tues-Fri 12pm-6pm/ Sat & Sun 10am to 6pm. 221 ave Jean Jaurès (19th), 01.44. 84.44.84. M° Porte de Pantin

PRACTICAL INFORMATION Le Kiosque Théâtre

Offers tickets for shows on the same day at half price. Seats are available for most shows in theatres, café-théâtres and prestigious cabarets.

Tues-Sat 12:30pm-8pm/ Sun12:30pm-4pm.

Kiosque Madeleine: facing 15 Place de la Madeleine (8th). M° Madeleine; Kiosque Montparnasse: on the esplanade between the Tower and the Gare Montparnasse. M° Montparnasse-Bienvenue

PALAIS DE TOKYO | Museums & Fondations w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 69

The Guide

DINING

Glide along the Seine on Ducasse sur Seine (opposite page)

70 W H E R E PA R I S I D E C E M B E R 2018

Photo Š Pierre Monetta

French Fare | New Openings | New Year Celebrations | Peruvian Cuisine

DINING

Restaurants

Ducasse Takes to the Seine He is one of France’s, and the world’s, most admired chefs, and now Alain Ducasse has taken his talents to the waters, or more accurately, to the River Seine. Ducasse sur Seine shows off the chef’s talents while showing off the equally impressive sites of the French capital.

Docked just beneath the Eiffel Tower, Ducasse sur Seine invites you to step onto a wonderful culinary experience aboard the first electric river cruise in the city. The restaurant serves French cuisine with a touch of modernity seen in dishes such as the chilled lobster entrée drizzled with a coral vinaigrette or the pan-seared sea bass served with a tangy sauce. Vegetarians are equally spoiled with the chef’s signature Cookpot of seasonal vegetables served on a bed of spelt. The highlight accompanying your dinner is of course Paris’s gorgeous monuments that are beautifully served as the perfect backdrop, with the Notre Dame Cathedral, Musée d’Orsay and Pont Neuf only some of the majestic attractions aligning the River Seine and seen as the boat glides along quietly. Reservations are highly recommended. – S.I. Ducasse sur Seine Port Debilly (16th), 01 58 00 22 08

Ducasse en Seine © Pierre Monetta; Allénothèque ® Nicolas Lobbestael

Wine and Dine at Beaupassage Le Beaupassage is a little pedestrians-only lane dedicated to French gastronomy that runs in a dog’s leg from the Rue de Varenne to Boulevard Raspail in the 7th arrondissement. Among the chefs participating in the project are Anne-Sophie Pic, Pierre Hermé, Thierry Marx and celebrity butcher Alexandre Polmard, who has a steakhouse here. Michelin three-star chef Yannick Alléno has also opened a contemporary French restaurant here called the Allénothèque. This table spins on the idea of wine pairings with the short menu offered, and as long as you are forewarned that every bottle of wine consumed here is subject to a 25-euro corkage fee, it’s a pleasant place for lunch on the two-course 29-euro prix-fixe menu or three-course 41-euro prix-fixe menu. A la carte prices at dinner are much steeper, and reservations are essential. – Alexander Lobrano Allénothèque 6 Allée du Beaupassage (7th), 01 84 74 21 21 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 71

DINING

Restaurants

New Brasserie on the Block Tucked away in the Passage des Panoramas, a covered walkway that opened in 1799 and which is one of the most charming and atmospheric addresses in Paris, Astair is the newest address of a trio of the French capital’s most innovative restaurateurs, Jean Valfort, Charles Drouhaut and Jean-François Monfort. Aside from a jazzy décor, this team’s real coup was to persuade chef Gilles Goujon, who has three Michelin stars at l’Auberge du Vieux Puits in Fontjoncouse in the Languedoc, to sign a menu for their jaunty brasserie. What this means is a spectacularly good run of dishes that include starters like escargots, oysters and a sublime squid’s ink pasta with a cardamom-flavoured cuttlefish sauce and mains like sole meunière and braised lamb shanks with aubergines, tomatoes and pickled lemon. Finish up with the fig tart or the baba au rhum, and be sure to book in advance, since this place is deservedly very popular. – A.L. Astair 9 Passage des Panoramas (2nd), 09 81 29 50 95

“This restaurant is about sharing and having a good time,” says chef Hélène Darroze about Jòia, her lively new comfortfood restaurant and bar near the Bourse. In the dialect of France’s southwestern Bearn region, Jòia means “joyous”, and that describes this place perfectly. Here you can sit at a conventional table, a table d’hôtes, or a counter on the edge of the kitchen to watch the chefs in action. Stopping by for dinner with a friend, we loved the do-it-yourself guacamole, avocado and seasonings you mash up yourself, and a serving of velvety jambon noire de Bigorre, one the finest hams produced in France. Next we shared a roast chicken with a stuffing of brioche and foie gras tucked under its skin and sides of roasted garlic, crunchy roasted potatoes and polenta garnished with ewe’s milk cheese. The dessert not to miss is the luscious millefeuille of crêpes with Matcha and yuzu cream, and the wine list features bottles exclusively from female winemakers in France, Italy, California and other wine regions. – A.L. Jòia 39 rue des Jeuneurs (2nd), 01 40 20 06 06 72 W HE R E PA R I S I D E C E M B E R 2018

Astair © Vincente Leroux; Jòia © Nicolas Buisson

Joy for Dinner

DINING

Restaurants

Buddha Celebrates 2019 Bring in the New Year by stepping back in time at Buddha Bar. The famous restaurant and bar is putting together a time warp to take you back to when it was all flowers and disco. On the last evening of 2018, dine on an avocado salad seasoned with a truffle salsa, foie gras served with gingerbread and pineapple chutney, and Chilean sea bass served with a purée of sweet potatoes and baby carrots, before ringing in 2019 with a festive soirée with plenty of champagne flowing and the signature sounds of Buddha Bar. The evening promises to be full of surprises with the giant Buddha looking over your every disco move.– S.I. Buddha Bar 8 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 01 53 05 90 31

A Peruvian Voyage On the ground floor of the 1K Paris Hotel is where the tastes of Peru are celebrated at the contemporary restaurant Inka. The tapas style menu invites you to sample traditional Peruvian cuisine with its colourful dishes including the multi-coloured quinoa dish tossed with zucchini and seasoned with Peruvian spices and sweet and sour soy sauce, tangy shrimp ceviche, and soft shell tacos. With its azure blue walls, colourful throw pillows and friendly staff this is a great place for a fun night out with friends, and make sure you start your night with a cocktail from the restaurant’s Pisco bar where the Pisco Sour is a standout winner. – S.I. Inka 13 blvd du Temple (3rd), 01 42 71 77 15 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 73

DINING

Restaurants Advertorial

LE BOULEDOGUE Traditional French Cuisine / Paris 3rd For over 20 years, right in the heart of the Marais, in a warm and cosy atmosphere, Le Bouledogue has been serving traditional French fare using only seasonal produce.

Open from Monday to Saturday, from 10am to 11pm, with continuous service. Closed on Sunday.

20 rue Rambuteau, Paris 3rd Metro: Rambuteau/Hotel de Ville Tel: +33(0)1 40 27 90 90 www.lebouledogue.fr

DJAKARTA BALI

AU COIN DES GOURMETS

Indonesian cuisine

Indochine Cuisine / Paris 1st & 5th

49 rue Vauvilliers, Paris 1 4Metro: Louvre-Rivoli/Châtelet-Les Halles 4Tel: +33 (0)1 45 08 83 11 4Lunch: 12pm to 2.00pm except Monday and Tuesday 4Dinner: 7pm to 10.30pm except Monday 4Balinese Dance show on Friday Night 4Special discovery menu, the RIJSTTAFEL: 25-55€ 4www.djakarta-bali.com st

Imagine a little gem of a place, serene and refined, decorated with batiks and Javanese puppets, just around the corner from the Louvre.

Enjoy delicate foods from Java, Sumatra and Bali.

Don’t miss the Beef RENDANG "Best Dish of the world" by CNN Travel reader ‘s choice 2017.

74 W H E R E PA R I S I D E C E M B E R 2018

438 rue du Mont-Thabor, Paris 1st 4Tel: +33 (0)1 42 60 79 79 45 rue Dante, Paris 5th 4Tel: +33 (0)1 43 26 12 92 4www.coindesgourmetsrivedroite.fr

This restaurant is the ideal place for a quick lunch or a romantic dinner. For the past 20 years, the Ta family has been offering authentic Vietnamese cuisine. You will be seduced by the freshness and the refined savours of their dishes. Recommended by Zagat. Near Place Vendôme, near NotreDame. Advisable to reserve.

BRETEUIL 3 place de Breteuil - Paris 7 +33 1 45 67 07 27 Fruits de mer à emporter

17ème 108 avenue de Villiers - Paris 17 +33 1 47 63 32 77

MAILLOT 275 boulevard Pereire - Paris 17 +33 1 45 74 33 32

MUETTE 10 chaussée de la Muette - Paris 16 +33 1 45 03 14 84 Fruits de mer à emporter

Open daily ~ Valet service ~ Patios ~ Private rooms

New winter carte SIGNATURE MENU ALL INCLUSIVE 44€ Apéritif, starter, main course, dessert Wine and organic coffee Special menus for Christmas and New Year’s Eve Don’t forget to book your table !

LeGrandBistroParis d o r r Paris

www.legrandbistro.fr

d o r r Paris

LeGrandBistroParis d o r r Paris

18 rue Blanche - Paris 9 +33 1 45 26 41 43

Open daily

LEVER DE RIDEAU MENU 41€ All inclusive Apéritif, starter, main course, dessert wine and organic coffee Special menus for Christmas and New Year’s Eve Don’t forget to book your table !

www.lesdeuxtheatres.com

BistroDeuxTheatres d o r r Paris

d o r r Paris

Bistrodesdeuxtheatres d o r r Paris w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 75

DINING

Restaurants

Lyrical Dinners Just on the outskirts of Paris, in the very posh Neuilly neighbourhood is where Bel Canto brings the opera to your dinner table. Hosting lyrical dinners from Tuesday through to Saturday, Bel Canto is an open invitation to an unforgettable evening where singers with very powerful voices pepper your French cuisine dinner with impressive operas. With extracts from Carmen, Romeo and Juliette and other famous operas, the singers bring the magic of the opera to your dinner table. The three-course meal is beautifully orchestrated with the musical intermissions landmarking your entrée, main and dessert. And with the dining room lending itself beautifully to the music, acoustically protecting and amplifying the performances, every diner is transported to a night at the opera with a delicious dinner to boot with dishes including foie gras served with orange and apple chutney, and vegetarian ravioli with creamy ricotta cheese, zucchini and carrots. – S.I. Bel Canto 6 rue du Commandant Pilot, 92200 Neuilly-sur-Seine, 01 47 47 19 94

Chic Caviar Dining

Restaurant Petrossian 13 blvd de la Tour Maubourg (7th), 01 44 11 32 32

Discover the interview of Armen Petrossian 76 W HE R E PA R I S I D E C E M B E R 2018

Restaurant Petrossian © Fabien Breuil

Petrossian, the famous caviar merchant, was founded in Paris in 1920, and in addition to its exquisite caviar, it also sells some of the world’s best smoked salmon, seafood delicacies and foie gras. And the best place to sample their exquisite wares is at their Left Bank restaurant, which recently moved to new quarters just across the street from the boutique on the Avenue de la Tour Maubourg. Just inside the front door of this elegant dining room with a Japanesestyle mural of waves on the wall, there’s a caviar bar where you do a tasting of three different caviars. This same tasting is also served in the dining room, and perhaps with a shot or two of chilled caviarinfused vodka, a wonderful way to begin a caviar-themed meal by the restaurant’s talented new chef Renaud Ramamourty. Start with one of Ramamourty’s signatures dishes, “Comme un Oeuf à la Coque”, three free-range eggs with hard-boiled whites topped by softly shirred eggs and Petrossian’s sublime Daurenki caviar, or maybe the delicate open tart of creamed leeks with caviar Alverta mature, and then the tagliatelle with ossetra caviar or maybe the cod filet coated with caviar and garnished with green ravioli.

Charming service, and a very good wine list, too. – A.L.

Open Daily ~ Valet Service ~ Patios ~ Private Rooms

Moulin Vert Menu All inclusive menu for 44€ Apéritif ~ Starter ~ Main course Dessert ~ Wine ~ Coffee

Special menus & DJ for Christmas and New Year’s Eve Don’t forget to book your table !

www.legrandbistro.fr

LeGrandBistroParis d o r r Paris

d o r r Paris MONTPARNASSE 112 bvd du Montparnasse - Paris 14 +33 1 44 07 27 37

SAINT-GERMAIN 33 rue Saint-Jacques - Paris 5 +33 1 44 07 27 37

TERNES 69 avenue de Wagram - Paris 17 +33 1 43 80 63 54

Seafood Take Away - Delivery by Private Chauffeur - Patios - Private Rooms

New winter carte Largest oysters selection in Paris Best seafood platters Don’t forget to book your table for Christmas and New Year’s Eve !

w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 77

Address Book

DINING

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris DINING ON THE SEINE Bateaux-Mouches - Classic French

(€€€)

Enjoy a romantic dinner cruise on the Seine river enchanted by violin and piano music. Daily departures for dinner at 8:30pm. On Sat, Sun and public holidays lunches at 1pm (with country music). Port de la Conférence, Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. Mº Alma-Marceau

Bateaux Parisiens - Classic French (€€€)

Enjoy a three or four course lunch or dinner on board these boats as they take you on a tour of Paris on the Seine. The menus change with the seasons. The lunch menu can include chilled green asparagus with mozzarella and for a main free-range chicken with mashed potatoes. Dinner choices can include smoked salmon to start and as a main filet of sea bass. Reservations required. Port de la Bourdonnais (7th), 01.76.64.14.45. M° Trocadéro

Yachts de Paris - Classic French (€€€€€)

The most luxurious of all the river boats serves up gourmet dinner cruises in collaboration with the French house of gastronomy Lenôtre. The seasonal menu includes noble products and dishes that have been elaborated exclusively for the cruise. Port Henri IV (4th), 01.44.54.14.70. M° Pont de Sully

FOOD & WINE Beaupassage

This calm, greenery-filled, open-sky passageway dedicated to gastronomy, art and well-being is lined with eateries and food shops from the stars of French cuisine including Thierry Marx, Yannick Alléno and Pierre Hermé. Daily B, L & D. 53-57 rue de Grenelle (7th), M° rue du Bac

Fauchon

A celebrated food emporium with an excellent selection of wines, along with foie gras, caviar, exotic fruit, chocolates, teas and spices. Also offers top-notch take-out meals. 26 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.70.39.38.00. M° Madeleine .Two doors down at Number 30 find Le Café and Le Comptoir with a fabulous wine cellar, a great cheese plate, and the most delicious caramel éclairs. Amazing gift baskets make for a perfect offering for all foodies.

La Grande Epicerie Rive Droite

This high end grocery store carries superb and carefully selected meats, fish, cheeses and produce as well as a full range of gourmet products ranging from spices to teas and coffees, condiments, a host of sweet treats and more. There is a fine selection of beers, wines and spirits and a luxury counter

with truffles, smoked salmon and caviar and other delicacies. 80 rue de Passy (16th), 01.44.14.38.00.

M° La Muette

La Maison Plisson

a thyme-flavoured gravy. The desserts were created by pastry chef Yann Brys who has the M.O.F., the finest craftsman of France, title. Daily B, L & D, 7am-11pm.

16 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01.42.86.10.10. M° Pyramides

This grocery store carries a full range of excellent, carefully sourced products ranging from meats to cheeses to cold cuts and fresh fruits and vegetables. Homemade juices, fine wines and fresh breads are all available and there is a restaurant serving breakfast, lunch and light meals and snacks.

93 blvd Beaumarchais (3rd), 01.71.18.19.09. M° Saint Sébastien-Froissart

Canard & Champagne - Classic French (€€)

Nicolas

Champeaux - Brasserie (€€)

The celebrated Parisian wine shops offer a wide range of reds, whites, rosés, champagnes and liquors for all budgets. A warm welcome and excellent advice are hallmarks of Nicolas. The threestorey Place de la Madeleine boutique is the largest and features a wine cellar. An on the premises wine bar is opened Mon-Fri noon-8pm/Sat noon-3pm. 31 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.68.00.16. Mº Madeleine

AROUND LOUVRE & PALAIS ROYAL (1st, 2nd) Au Coin Des Gourmets - Indochinese

This Alain Ducasse brasserie, located beneath the canopy of the Forum des Halles centre, is a fine spot for a nice lunch, inventive cocktails with tapas or dinner. Traditional brasserie fare is on the agenda like cold cut platters and onion soup as well as a selection of marinated raw fish dishes and an array of soufflés, the house’s signature dish.

Daily L & D. Forum des Halles, Porte Rambuteau (1st), 01.53.45.84.50 . M° Les Halles

Clover Grill - Steakhouse (€€€) (€€)

This restaurant serves excellent Cambodian, Laotian and Vietnamese dishes in a warm and friendly atmosphere. Savoury starters include the shrimp dumpling soup and a fine selection of dim sum. Excellent main courses include the chicken sautéed with fresh ginger and prawns braised in three different peppers. The restaurant has a nice list of French wines. Mon-Sat L&D. 38 rue du Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.79.79. M° Concorde

Aux Lyonnais - Bistro (€€)

A beautiful 1890 bistro now co-owned by superchef Alain Ducasse, offering spiffed-up and modernized Lyon specialties: baked eggs with crawfish, roast chicken with mushrooms, tomatoes and onions in vinegar glaze. Tue-Fri L&D, Sat D. 32 rue Saint-Marc (2nd), 01.42.96.65.04. M° Richelieu-Drouot

Bistro Volnay - Bistro (€€€)

Good, authentic French food in a relaxed, friendly setting with a first-rate wine list including an excellent value Volnay. The cheese tray is superb and generously served. Mon-Fri L&D. 8 rue Volney (2nd), 01.42.61.06.65. Mº Opéra

Brasserie Réjane - Brasserie (€€)

This charming restaurant serves two of France’s most emblematic foodstuffs, duck and champagne.

French-raised duck is served deliciously as foie gras, confit (preserved in its own fat and grilled) and magret (duck breast). There is a superb selection of champagnes as well. Tues-Sat L&D. 57 Passage des Panoramas (2nd), 09.81.83.95.69. M° Grands Boulevards

This casual restaurant offers up traditional French fare at the Nolinski hotel. Classic starters include mackerel in white wine with grain mustard dressing while a nice main is the roasted free-range chicken in

The latest offering from French chef Jean-François Piège sees carnivores treated to the best steak in town. Black Market beef from Australia and Prime Angus beef from Kansas are only some of the cuts found on the menu alongside cocktails created by the talented trio behind the Experimental Cocktail Club especially for the restaurant. Mon- Sat L&D. 6 rue Bailleul (1st), 01.40.41.59.59. Mº Louvre-Rivoli

Djakarta Bali - Indonesian (€)

An excellent restaurant run by a charming, Englishspeaking brother-and-sister team. Try lumpia (deep-fried spring rolls), or ayam jahe (chicken caramelized in ginger). Tue-Sun L&D. 9 rue Vauvilliers (1st), 01.45.08.83.11. Mº Louvre-Rivoli

Le Grand Vefour - Modern Classic (€€€€)

The opulent two-star restaurant in the Palais Royal arcades that has been serving the Parisian beau monde since the 1700s. Among chef Guy Martin’s superb dishes are the foie gras ravioli with truffle jus. Mon-Fri L&D, Fri. L only. 17 rue de Beaujolais (1st), 01.42.96.56.27. Mº Palais Royal

Le Céladon - Gourmet (€€€€)

This restaurant inside the Hôtel Westminster offers up sourced market-based gastronomic dishes in a refined Regency style setting. Chef Christophe Moisand changes the menu on a weekly basis but dishes may include a medley of Saint Jacques with leeks and candied lemon for starters and marinated

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & D: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner.

BATEAUX PARISIENS | Classic French (7th) 78 W HE RE PA R I S I D E C E M B E R 2018

CANARD & CHAMPAGNE | Classic French (2nd)

DINING

Address Book

cod poached with ginger for a main. Daily L&D. 13 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.47.03.40.42. M° Opéra

Le Meurice-Alain Ducasse - Modern Classic (€€€€€)

A stunning 18th-century room offers a gastronomic menu featuring sumptuous 2-star cuisine that changes with the seasons. Daily B, L (except Sat), D. Hôtel Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.58.10.44.

Mº Tuileries

Le Lulli - Classic French

(€€)

This delightful restaurant located in the Grand Hôtel du Palais Royal offers fine cuisine in a winter garden setting. Recent offerings included a pea soup flavoured with mint and served with peppered ricotta, and the Lulli cheeseburger served with French fries. B daily, Mon-Fri L. 4 rue de Valois (1st), 01.42.96.72.20. M° Palais RoyalMusée du Louvre

L’Ambroisie - Haute Cuisine (€€€€€)

In a beautiful 17th century mansion in the Place des Vosges, media-shy three-star chef Bernard Pacaud is renowned for splendid renditions of deceptively simple dishes such as lobster ravioli with truffles or langoustine feuillantine with sesame and curry. TueSat L&D. 9 Place des Vosges (4th), 01.42.78.51.45.

Mº Saint-Paul

L’Ami Louis - Bistro (€€€€€)

Le Restaurant du Palais Royal - Contemporary (€€) Fine contemporary French cuisine can be savoured in this one-star restaurant with an elegant and cosy atmosphere overlooking the beautiful gardens of the Palais Royal. Chef Philip Chronopoulos prepares traditional dishes like lamb T-bone served with sweet peas and seaweed, and caramelised duck served with a sweet apricot jus and carrot puree.

Tues-Sat L&D. 110 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.20.00.27.

M° Palais Royal

Le Soufflé - Classic French (€€)

This is the place to taste one of France’s finest specialties, the souffle. Attentive service and superb quality await in this restaurant established in 1961.

Faithful to traditional cuisine, in addition to over 20 different kinds of souffles, a classic French menu is proposed. Mon-Sat L&D. 36 rue du Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.27.19. Mº Concorde

LE MARAIS (3rd, 4th) Bofinger - Brasserie (€€)

A landmark brasserie with a sensational Belle Epoque decor. Keep it simple here: steak tartare, oysters and big seafood platters. Daily L&D until 1 am. 5-7 rue de la Bastille (4th), 01.42.72.87.82. M° Bastille

Le Bouledogue - Traditional French Cuisine (€€) For over 20 years, right in the heart of the Marais, in a warm and cosy atmosphere, Le Bouledogue has been serving traditional French fare using only seasonal produce. Mon-Sat, 10am-11pm. 20 rue Rambuteau (3rd), 01.40.27.90.90. M° Rambuteau

Breakfast in America - American (€€)

(omelets, bagels and yummy pancakes with real maple syrup etc.), plus fresh milkshakes and much more. Receive 10% off when you order breakfast anytime of the day by showing our ad.

4 rue Malher (4th), 01.42.72.40.21. M° Saint-Paul

For a traditional American Diner serving classic comfort food - including real burgers and breakfasts

A classic bistro known for huge portions of foie gras and exorbitant prices. People tend to love it or hate it, and well-heeled tourists reserve weeks in advance. Wed-Sun L&D. 32 rue du Vertbois (3rd), 01.48.87.77.48. M° Arts et Métiers

QUARTIER LATIN & SAINT-GERMAIN (5th, 6th) Alcazar - Brasserie (€€€)

Hélène Darroze - Southwestern French (€€)

Young chef Hélène Darroze serves up southwestern French specialties in this contemporary one-star restaurant. The casual ground floor Salon d’Hélène serves upscale tapas.

Tue-Sat L&D. 4 rue d’Assas (6th), 01.42.22.00.11.

Mº Sèvres Babylone

La Méditerranée - Seafood (€€)

A bright and beautiful, mostly seafood restaurant with marvelous wall paintings and a glasswalled terrace facing the Odéon theater. It once welcomed the likes of Liz Taylor and Orson Welles, as the discreet photos on the stairwell attest.

Daily L&D until 11 pm. 2 Place de l’Odéon (6th), 01.43.26.02.30. M° Odéon

Lapérouse - Gourmet (€€€)

This elegant restaurant on the Seine serves finely prepared gastronomic French cuisine. Starters include crayfish ravioli or foie gras with 12 spices. A nice main course is the aged house steak. Private dining rooms may be reserved as well. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat, D only. 51 Quai des Grands Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.68.04. Mº Saint-Michel

This family-owned Parisian restaurant offers a harmonious atmosphere highlighted by luxuriant vegetation. Savour a beet, goat cheese and hazelnut salad for starters then try a nicely spiced shoulder of lamb with apricots for a main. Meanwhile cocktails can be enjoyed up on the balcony. Daily L&D, closed Sun & Mon in the summer. 62 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.53.10.19.99. Mº Odéon

A Paris institution from another era, now with only one star, but still offering its famous numbered pressed duck and an absolutely magical view of Notre-Dame. Tues-Sat L&D. 15-17 Quai de la Tournelle (5th), 01.43.54.23.31.

Mº Maubert-Mutualité

Au Moulin à Vent - Bistro (€€)

La Truffière - Southwestern French (€€€)

This charming bistro located in one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Paris is known for the quality of its Salers beef and its specialties of the Beaujolais region. Tues–Fri L&D/Sat D only. 20 rue des FossésSaint-Bernard (5th), 01.43.54.99.37. M° Jussieu

Café de Flore - Bistro (€€)

La Tour d’Argent - Classic French (€€€€€)

Cozy restaurant in a 17th century vaulted cellar serving southwestern French cuisine, including foie gras and black and white truffle dishes, and menus that change with the seasons. 2,400 bottle wine list.

Tue-Sun L&D. 4 rue de Blainville (5th), 01.46.33.29.82.

Mº Place Monge

Le Montparnasse 1900 - Classic French (€€)

The legendary café made famous in the 1950s by Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir and other Left Bank intellectuals. The atmosphere is still Parisian, the fare limited to (expensive) drinks and light snacks and traditional desserts. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 172 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.26.

Mº Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Sumptuous food in a sumptuous decor. A stunning Art Nouveau setting in this registered historical monument surrounds you as you delight in a fine selection of grilled meats and finely prepared dishes. Daily L&D. 59 blvd Montparnasse (6th), 01.45.49.19.00. Mº Montparnasse-Bienvenue

Café des Deux Magots - Café (€€)

Relais Louis XIII - Classic French (€€€€)

The other legendary Left Bank café, still going strong long after its 1950s heyday. The prices are equally high, but it remains an authentic Parisian favourite.

Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 6 Place Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.25. Mº Saint-Germain-des-Prés

In a wood-beamed medieval townhouse, twostar chef Manuel Martinez serves delicious dishes revolving around seasonal products. Fine wine list. Tue-Sat, L&D. 8 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.75.96. Mº Saint-Michel

Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above.

LE LULLI | Classic French (1st)

ZE KITCHEN GALERIE | Fusion (6th) w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 79

DINING

Address Book Ze Kitchen Galerie - Fusion (€€)

Ze silly name aside, chef William Ledeuil’s chic restaurant offers excellent soups, marinated fish, pasta starters and main courses a la plancha.

Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D. 4 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.44.32.00.32. Mº Saint-Michel

AROUND THE EIFFEL TOWER & LES INVALIDES (7th) Arpège - Contemporary

(€€€€€)

Three-star chef Alain Passard’s menu is now half vegetarian serving ravioli with vegetables, Cévennes onions with Parmesan, and his famous tomato dessert - though carnivores can find dishes like squab with sugared almonds. Mon-Fri L&D. 84 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.47.05.09.06. M° Varenne

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon - Bistronomy (€€€)

The 1-star lunch-counter restaurant of chef Joel Robuchon serves contemporary French dishes such as a foie gras burger. Daily L&D until 11 pm.

5 rue Montalembert (7th), 01.42.22.56.56. M° Rue du Bac

Les Ombres - Contemporary (€€€€)

The spectacular glass-domed rooftop restaurant of Musée du Quai Branly, directly beneath the Eiffel Tower. Contemporary French with an exotic touch: foie gras terrine with mango chutney, roast lamb with gingerbread and zucchini ravioli. Daily L&D. 27 Quai Branly (7th), 01.47.53.68.00. Mº Alma-Marceau

Le Récamier - Classic French (€€)

This quintessential Parisian restaurant nestled on a quiet pedestrian street serves traditional French cuisine. Starters include homemade foie gras while a favourite main is the beef filet in pepper sauce. But the house is famous for its fine selection of soufflés, both sweet and savoury.

Daily L&D, continuous service. 4 rue Récamier (7th), 01.45.48.86.58. M° Sèvres-Babylone

AROUND THE CHAMPS-ELYSÉES (8th) 114 Faubourg - Brasserie (€€€)

An elegant one-star establishment in the Bristol Hotel proffers superb cooking from three-star chef Eric Frechon in a delightful duplex space. 7/7, L&D. 114 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th) , 01.53.43.44.44.

Mº Miromesnil

39V - Contemporary (€€€)

This glamorous one-star restaurant, in the heart of the Golden Triangle, sports a modern, streamlined décor. The grilled langoustines in a light citrus sauce are excellent as is the cheesecake. Mon-Fri L&D. 39 ave George V (8th), 01.56.62.30.05. Mº George V

Apicius - Contemporary (€€€€)

The one-star restaurant of chef Jean-Pierre Vigato, offering a mix of modern and country cooking: lobster ravioli, potato charlotte with caviar. Mon-Fri L&D. 20 rue d’Artois (8th), 01.43.80.19.66. Mº Saint-Philippe-du-Roule

Caviar House & Prunier - Caviar (€€€€)

Next door to the competition, the caviar shop and

restaurant annex of Prunier (16th), specializing in French caviar. Mon-Sat L&D. 15 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.47.42.98.98. M° Madeleine

Epicure - Gourmet (€€€€€)

The beautiful dining room looks out over the hotel’s French garden and is a perfect setting for three-star chef Eric Frechon’s remarkable cuisine.

Daily L&D. Hôtel Le Bristol, 112 rue du Fbg SaintHonoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. Mº Miromesnil

La Scène - Gourmet (€€€€)

This gastronomic restaurant in the Prince de Galles hotel offers an authentic and generous cuisine using remarkable products. For a fish course, succulent French lobster is a fine choice while meat dishes include fine milk-fed veal and wild hare from the Beauce region. Mon-Sat B, L&D, Sun Brunch. 33 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.78.52. Mº George V

Ladurée Champs-Elysées - French Pastries (€€) Every day from 7.30 am to midnight, Ladurée serves breakfast, lunch, tea time and dinner. On the ground floor the “Eiffel Veranda” as well as the outdoor terrace overlook the glamorous Avenue des Champs-Elysées. 75 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th)

Laurent - Gourmet

(€€€€)

This gourmet 1-star Michelin restaurant serving sophisticated cuisine in a beautiful setting with a garden is a Parisian institution. The finest produce and products are used to prepare seasonal French cuisine with a contemporary touch. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 41 ave Gabriel (8th), 01.42.25.00.39.

M° Champs-Elysées Clemenceau

Lasserre - Classic French (€€€€)

Chef Michel Roth serves an authentic and refined cuisine revolving around fresh produce in this historic one-star restaurant with its gliding sunroof ceiling. Tues-Sat D only, Thu-Fri L. 17 ave F. Delano Roosevelt (8th), 01.43.59.02.13. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

setting. The prix-fixe menus revolve around carefully prepared classical French dishes made with seasonal products and the restaurant has an exceptional wine list. Tues-Sat L&D, Tues D only.

31 ave Franklin D. Roosevelt (8th), 01.82.82.10.10.

M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Ledoyen - Gourmet (€€€€€)

This 3-star restaurant in an elegant 18th-century pavilion with a Napoleon III decor in the gardens of the Champs-Elysées, where chef Yannick Alléno serves his unique gastronomic cuisine. Tue-Fri L&D, Mon D. Carré des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.05.10.00.

M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau

Les Confidences du San Régis - French

(€€€)

In the chic 8th arrondissement just a few steps from the Avenue des Champs-Elysées is where you will find Hôtel San Régis’s cosy winter garden restaurant. Under an illuminating glass roof guests are invited to sample French dishes including duck foie gras and a scallops millefeuilles. Daily B, L&D. 12 rue Jean-Goujon (8th), 01.44.95.16.16. M˚ ChampsElysées-Clémenceau

Monsieur - French (€€€€)

This contemporary hotel restaurant serves authentic French cuisine inspired by the countryside. The menu changes every month, with a different region celebrated and served up using the freshest ingredients. Mon-Fri L&D. Hotel Lancaster, 7 rue de Berri (8th), 01.40.76.40.18. M° George V

Maison Blanche - Contemporary (€€€€)

Chef Fabrice Giraud prepares savoury and refined fare that changes with the seasons. Located on the 7th floor of the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées, the restaurant with its garden terrace overlooks the Eiffel Tower. Mon-Fri L&D/Sat-Sun D. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.55.99. Mº Alma Marceau

Manko Paris - Peruvian (€€)

Le 68 par Guy Martin - Contemporary (€€)

Tucked away downstairs in the historic Guerlain boutique is a restaurant bursting with flavourful dishes. The menu and restaurant have been conceived by starred chef Guy Martin and the dishes draw their inspiration from Guerlain’s famous fragrances. 7/7, continuous, B, L, D. 68 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) 01.45.62.54.10. M° George V

This charming Peruvian restaurant serves up authentic fare in a beautiful setting. Try specialities like the causa, a mashed potatoes dish seasoned with lime and chilli peppers, ceviches or ember oven-cooked dishes like jumbo prawns flavoured with Nikkei marinade and served with grilled shitake mushrooms. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.82.28.00.15. M° Alma-Marceau

Le Camondo - Contemporary (€€€)

Yeeels - Contemporary (€€€)

This delightful restaurant in a private mansion is adjacent to the museum of the same name. The menu changes with the seasons and can include a crab and grapefruit salad for starters followed by filet of duck breast with figs. There are a host of homemade pastries for dessert. Tues-Sat L&D, Sun L only. 61bis rue de Monceau (8th), 01.45.63.40.40. M° Villiers

Le Clarence -Gourmet (€€€€€)

This beautifully appointed restaurant in a majestic private mansion, the Hôtel Dillon, serves the finest in French gastronomy in an 18th century

This chic and trendy bar and restaurant offers up fresh and inventive fare and both classic and highly original cocktails in an elegant atmosphere.

Daily L&D. 24 ave George V (8th), 01.42.88.75.75.

M° George V

AROUND OPÉRA GARNIER & PIGALLE (9th, 10th, 18th) 14 Paradis - Contemporary (€)

This charming restaurant serves up reasonably priced contemporary cuisine made with local

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & D: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner.

MANKO PARIS | Peruvian (8th) 80 W HE RE PA R I S I D E C E M B E R 2018

LE CAMONDO | Contemporary (8th)

DINING

Address Book and seasonal products. For starters enjoy salmon in sesame oil flavoured with lime and coriander followed by, for example, sautéed tuna in a lemon and vodka foam sauce. Desserts include lemon pie and French toast with caramelised pears. A nice wine list and house cocktails round out the offerings.

Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D, Sun L only. 14 rue du Paradis (10th), 01.45.23.57.98. M° Château d’Eau

Friends & Family -Bistro (€€)

This charming Parisian restaurant offers up classic French, seasonal fare in a warm and welcoming atmosphere. Tues-Fri L&D Sat D only. 18 Cité Bergère (9th), 01.45.23.33.33. M° Bonne Nouvelle

Le Lumière - Gourmet (€€€)

Enjoy lunch, dinner or tea beneath a magnificent glass roof in this lovely place. There are champagne and cheese trolleys and the dessert trolley filled with traditional French pastries like éclairs and millefeuilles is a fine ending to a meal and a good reason to stop in for high tea. Daily L&D. Hôtel Scribe,1 rue Scribe (9th), 01.44.71.74.20. Mº Opéra

L’Opera Restaurant - Contemporary (€€€)

Located at the opera house, this restaurant with a contemporary decor of white and red, offers up a great view of the famous opera neighbourhood and one of the city’s largest terraces. Daily B, L&D 7am-midnight. Palais Garnier, Place Jacques Rouché (9th), 01.42.68.86.80. Mº Opéra

(€€€)

A magnificent, mirrored Belle Epoque restaurant in the Gare de Lyon train station serving classic French fare including lobster salad with artichokes, sole meunière and steak tartare. Daily B, L&D. Gare de Lyon, Place Louis Armand (12th), 01.43.43.09.06.

Mº Gare de Lyon

Les Grandes Marches - Brasserie (€€)

A new ownership and a new décor have come to this pillar of the Place de la Bastille. The establishment serves up traditional French fare and superb seafood platters. Daily B, L&D. 6 Place de la Bastille (12th), 01.43.42.90.32. Mº Bastille

Ober Mamma - Italian (€)

Homemade pizzas and pastas with ingredients from Italy are the hallmarks of this trattoria style restaurant with its friendly and energetic staff.

Enjoy fresh pasta, made on the premises, with creamy pecorino cheese sauce, black pepper and artichokes and savour an authentic tiramisu for dessert. Daily L&D. 107 blvd Richard Lenoir (11th), 01.58.30.62.78. M° Oberkampf

Septime - Classic French (€€€)

AROUND MONTPARNASSE (13 , 14 , 15 ) th

th

th

Le Bar à Huîtres - Seafood (€€€)

This is the place to go for fabulous seafood platters, finely prepared fresh fish dishes and one of the best and most eclectic selections of oysters in the French capital. Main course dishes include French sea bass, lobster from Brittany and filet of beef.

Daily, noon-midnight. 112 blvd Montparnasse (14th), 01.43.20.71.01. Mº Vanvin

Le Ciel de Paris - Gourmet (€€€)

Discover Paris from the 56th floor of the Montparnasse tower. With a breathtaking view, enjoy one of their foie gras offerings or try the delicious seafood. Daily L&D. 33 ave du Maine (15th), 01.40.64.77.64. Mº Montparnasse

Le Quinzieme - Fusion (€€€)

Cyril Lignac’s one-star restaurant serves a marketbased cuisine of originally prepared French classics with an Asian touch in a warm atmosphere. Main courses can include beef filet with homemade satay sauce or baked pigeon flavoured with miso. Mon-Fri L&D. 14 rue Cauchy (15th), 01.45.54.43.43. Mº Javel

TROCADÉRO & PORTE MAILLOT (16th, 17th) Cristal Room Baccarat - Modern Classic (€€€)

AROUND BASTILLE (11th, 12th) Le Train Bleu - Classic French

L’Oiseau Blanc - Classic French (€€€)

atmosphere. Tues-Fri L, D, Mon D only. 80 rue de Charonne (11th), 01.43.67.38.29. Mº Charonne

Traditional French fare featuring inventive marketbased cuisine from the talented Bertrand Grébaut is on the agenda here. Enjoy selective produce and products like the Banka trout from the Basque country with lentils and coriander in a relaxed

This beautifully appointed restaurant located in the Parisian headquarters of the crystal manufacturer serves contemporary and classic fare. Starters can include a salad of green beans with foie gras flavoured with hazel nut vinegar and for a main savour a turbot prepared meunière style. Tues-Sat L&D. 11 Place des Etats-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.10. M° Boissière

L’Abeille - Gourmet (€€€€€)

This restaurant, bar and terrace on the top floor of the Peninsula hotel features traditional French dishes with a contemporary twist using regional products. Daily L&D. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.30. M° Charles de Gaulle-Etoile

Makassar - Contemporary (€€)

Savor a contemporary and stylish home-made French cuisine with seasonal products. Free cocktail school & DJ set By Urban People from Monday to Saturday. Daily B, L&D. 39 ave de Wagram (17th), 01.55.37.55.57. M° Wagram

Shang Palace - Chinese (€€€)

This one-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel serves authentic Chinese cuisine inspired by the culinary traditions of southeast China. The art of Cantonese fine dining comes to life in the main room and three private dining rooms. Thurs-San, L&D. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.92. Mº Iéna

BELLEVILLE (19th, 20th) Au Boeuf Couronne - Classic French (€€)

Unique in its genre, this restaurant remains one of the city’s temples to red meat with 16 cuts of beef available in various sizes. Prime rib, filets of Charolais beef, veal kidneys and homemade potatoes are all superb. The upstairs dining room can be reserved for private parties. Daily L&D. 188 ave Jean Jaurès (19th), 01.42.39.44.44. Mº Porte de Pantin

Mama Shelter Paris - Contemporary (€€)

This restaurant features simple fare in a warm and welcoming setting. For starters there is a nice lentil salad while main courses include Black Angus steak with a pepper sauce. The establishment in known for its fine selection of pizzas and there are plenty of choices for vegetarians. Daily B, L & D, brunch is served on Sundays in place of lunch. 109 rue de Bagnolet (20th), 01.43.48.48.48. M° Gambetta

This 2-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel offers up sophisticated fare in a beautiful setting. Chef Christophe Moret elaborates a carefully sourced original menu in tune with the seasons. Starters can include preserved duck foie gras with sweet and sour cherries while a seasonal main is the line caught sea bass served with cauliflower and brioche. Tues-Sat, dinner only. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.90. M° Iéna

SUBURBS NOT TOO FAR FROM PARIS

La Scène Thélème - Gourmet (€€€€)

ReminiSens - Classic French

This one-star restaurant serves refined French food made with the finest of seasonal products and is outfitted with a theatre where you can enjoy a show before dinner. Starters can include sea scallops marinated in saké and garnished with local cabbage served kimchi style followed by, for example, duck from the Challans region with plums for two. The highly original desserts include pumpkin with ginger yoghurt. Tues-Fri L, Tues-Sat D. 18 rue Troyon (17th), 01.77.37.60.99. M° Ternes

Ma Cocotte - Bistro (€€€)

This sleek Philippe Stark designed bistro in the Saint-Ouen Flea Market serves up mainly traditional French fare. For starters sample the marinated salmon and for a main course a prime rib of beef or a rack of lamb. Daily L&D. 106 rue des Rosiers, SaintOuen, 01.49.51.70.00. M° Porte de Clignancourt (€€€€)

This restaurant nestled in a Baroque ambiance is a gastronomic journey into the 17th and 18th centuries.

The menu offers recipes of the age of the kings of France while actors in Baroque costumes tell you the secrets of the French court at your table. Three gastronomic theme menus revolving around the hunt, fish and the market garden are on offer. Dinner only Tues-Sun. 20 rue Baillet Reviron, 78000 Versailles, 06.71.67.02.86. RER C to Versailles Rive Gauche Château de Versailles stop

Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above.

LES GRANDES MARCHES | Brasserie (12th)

OBER MAMMA | Italian (11th) w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 81

The Guide

By Sandra Iskander

ENTERTAINMENT

The Secret Suite is toasting the French capital with a view and great cocktails (page 84)

82 W H E R E PA R I S I D E C E M B E R 2018

Secret Suite at Hôtel Raphael © Anthony Ghnassia

Theatre | Ballet | Speakeasy Bars | Circus | Cabarets | Gentlemen’s Clubs | Clubs

ENTERTAINMENT

Shows

A Night at the Theatre Playing out at the quaint Théâtre de la Contrescarpe off the famous Rue Mouffetard, catch the play adaptation of Anna Karenina, Tolstoy’s masterpiece. Adapted by Laetitia Gonzalbes, this version of the famous story explores homosexuality, with Anna Karenina betraying her husband by having an affair with Varinka, a woman. The play is showing until the end of December and is performed in French. - S.I. Théâtre de la Contrescarpe 5 rue Blainville (5th), 01 42 01 81 88

Anna Karenina ©Fabienne Rappeneau; The Nutcraker © Casse-Noisette DR

The Nutcracker It’s that time of year again when going to see a show is a joy, getting dressed up to go to the ballet is both merry and cultured, balancing out the shopping hysteria that easily takes over as Christmas nears. And the magic of Christmas is brought to life from the 23rd of December when the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées invites the Kiev National Opera Ballet to perform The Nutcracker.

To the music of Tchaikovsky watch as the dancers twirl their way through the famous ballet, bringing to life the heart-warming story of The Nutcracker and Clara, making a delightful evening for families visiting the City of Light. - S.I. Théâtre des Champs-Elysées 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 49 52 50 50 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 83

ENTERTAINMENT Speakeasy Bars

Squatting for a Cocktail The recently opened pop-up bar, Le Squat, is where every Parisian is heading to after work every Thursday night for a cocktail after dark. Located on the 7th floor of the Normandy Hotel in the heart of the city, the new bar that is open to the public on Thursdays only from 7pm to midnight, offers a breathtaking view of the famous rooftops of the French capital. Le Squat is open until the 19th of June, 2019 before major renovations are undertaken at the hotel but in the meantime you are invited into the tagged bar with unique graffiti art and an abandoned-apartment feel to enjoy champagne, wine and signature cocktails including Le Gin Tonic du Squat. - S.I. Le Squat Normandy Hotel 7 rue de l’Echelle (1st), 01 42 60 30 21

A glimpse of the Eiffel Tower and a Belvedere vodka cocktail is the latest gift Hôtel Raphael is offering visitors to the French capital courtesy of its ephemeral speakeasy bar, The Secret Suite. Through to the 21st of December, suite number 511 is transformed into the city’s latest pop-up bar where 4 signature cocktails are on the menu along with one of the best views on offer.

Open from Wednesday to Saturday, from 6 to 10pm, The Secret Suite is one of the city’s best kept secrets until now, and to find your way into it simply ask the staff in the hotel’s ground floor bar. - S.I. The Secret Suite Hôtel Raphael 17 ave Kléber (16th), 01 53 64 32 00 84 W HE R E PA R I S I D E C E M B E R 2018

Le Squat © Aymeric AL; Secret Suite at Hôtel Raphael © Stephane Cardinale

A 5-Star Speakeasy

ILLUSTRATION PAR MARC-ANTOINE COULON - AGENCE JOHN BRIGHTMAN - LIC.2.1066729

LOCATIONS : 0892 68 16 50 (0,40€/MIN) - FNAC, CARREFOUR, GEANT, MAGASINS U, AUCHAN, E.LECLERC, CULTURA ET POINTS DE VENTE HABITUELS FNAC.COM - TICKETMASTER.FR - MYTICKET.FR - DIGITICK.COM - TSPROD.COM - GUICHET : 32 RUE RICHER - 75009 PARIS – DE 14H A 18H

ADVERTORIAL

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Born in Bordeaux, Olivier moved to Paris to study hotel management and after graduating he moved to the Unites States where he managed a restaurant of a 5-star hotel. After four years, and many soul-searching nights, he decided to return to France and follow his real dream of becoming a

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Having experienced the cultural differences between the Parisians and Americans while in Florida, and having observed for himself the tourists of all nationalities in Paris, he decided to not shy away from the hardhitting questions of how one becomes a real Parisian.

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BOOKING

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86 W HE RE PA R I S I D E C E M B E R 2018

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WHERE PARIS PROMOTION

Spend an Unforgettable Evening at the

MOULIN ROUGE to Ring in the Holiday Season

Savour foie gras from the Saint Orens Farm enhanced with quince and coffee chutney and Christmas spices or a sashimi of Mandarin marinated salmon. Slowly cooked filet of John Dory is served Grenobloise style or you might opt for breast of chicken from the Landes region with black truffles. Dessert is the traditional and traditionally delicious Christmas Yule log. The influential Gault&Millau guide to gastronomy, which has listed the finest of restaurants since 1972, has recently positioned the restaurant of the Moulin Rouge among the essential restaurants of the capital. A first for a cabaret and a source of pride for the Moulin Rouge, which since the arrival of Chef David Le Quellec in 2015 has firmly entrenched home-made cooking into its values by bringing together 88 W HE RE PA R I S I D E C E M B E R 2018

tradition and modernity. The chef is running the kitchens of the Moulin Rouge to the highest standards of quality demanded by the celebrated Parisian establishment, and so on the menu is plenty of innovation and seasonal fare.

Throughout this festive period so as to keep with tradition, the Christmas dessert prepared by the pastry Chef Eric Barnerias will enchant lovers of all that is sweet.

And because a party dinner is always served with fine wine, the sommelier of the cabaret has selected superb wines, red, white and rosé, which he carefully ages in the wine cellar, a treasure trove of 25,000 bottles.

There is of course champagne, the star of stars because at the Moulin Rouge some 240,000 bottles are consumed annually. Take it all in for splendour adorns your table. In

Facade Moulin Rouge ©Moulin Rouge-D.Duguet; Meneuse de Revue ©Moulin Rouge® - S.Franzese

F

rom December 20th through to January 5th, the Moulin Rouge welcomes you into a fairy tale-like world where dreams and reality come together, and where fine dining is on the agenda as well for the celebrated cabaret invites you to discover its holiday menus elaborated exclusively from noble products and carefully prepared by Chef David Le Quellec.

French Cancan Danseuse ©Moulin Rouge® - S.Bertrand ; Table© Moulin Rouge - J.Habas

WHERE PARIS PROMOTION

between the past and the future take in the present for a sparkling evening in which the experience begins upon arrival in this mythical venue. The dining room team of 120 maître d’s, head waiters and waiters will usher you into the Belle Epoque hall with its authentic wall frescoes and Morris columns with the original posters of artists who performed here including Mistinguett, Maurice Chevalier, Edith Piaf, Jean Gabin, Frank Sinatra, Liza Minnelli and so many others.

Every night the orchestra plays the great classics from around the world offering a fine opportunity to take to the dance floor.

Meanwhile, upon the tables is an exceptional menu of winter savours along with the emblematic little red lamps that impart a muted atmosphere onto the evening before being turned off to set the stage for the celebrated show Féerie. A two-hour marvelfilled show with 60 performers on stage, original music and 1000 costumes of feathers, rhinestones and spangles all topped off with the emblematic dance of the Moulin Rouge, the French Cancan. Meanwhile, behind the scenes no less than four art and craft houses designated by the French government as Living Heritage Companies for the excellence of their traditional know-how are at work.

The Maison Février, master feather crafters since the 1920s worked for Mistinguett, the Maison Clairvoy, the historic shoemaker of the Moulin Rouge since 1945 makes the cancan boots, the creation workshop of the Moulin Rouge itself is directed by Mine Verges and creates the fabulous costumes and more recently the Atelier Valentin, master embroiderers, has joined the house’s arts and crafts entourage. And as 2019 is almost upon us, for the last night of the year the Moulin Rouge welcomes you for an exceptional evening for New Year’s Eve on December 31st.

The chef is even more inventive for this unique moment in the year and prepares a succulent dinner featuring sea bass ceviche, sea scallops and roasted milk fed veal. The champagne corks fly, the orchestra warms up and the soirée of enchantment begins.

The revue Féerie rings in the New Year amongst family and friends and at midnight the entire team of the Moulin Rouge is on hand to wish you a Happy New Year. And then it’s time to dance until dawn.

Montmartre , 82 blvd de Clichy (18th) 01 53 09 82 82 www.moulin-rouge.com

w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 89

ENTERTAINMENT Circus

Evolution is a Circus Act Cirque du Soleil © OSA Images / Costumes: Kym Barrett / ©2010 Cirque du Soleil Inc

Under a big top set up in the luscious Bois de Boulogne the Cirque du Soleil troupe interprets the evolution of mankind as only they could via the show Totem.

Through acrobatic performances, roller skating dances and body contorting, the audience is drawn into the cycle of evolution, with man slowly evolving from an amphibian state on stage. The breath-taking show, which has seen a phenomenal success is now playing until the 30th of December after more dates were added, is meticulously choreographed with unicyclists, swinging acrobats and trapeze artists each representing a different stage of life and mankind’s dreams including that of flying. - S.I. Tickets at Fnac.

Plaine de Jeux de Bagatelle 149 Allée du Bord de l’Eau (16th), 01 40 67 98 18

Sans 90 WH E Rtitre-5 E PA R I1S I D E C E M B E R 2018

01/06/2017 11:51

Cabarets Paradis Latin

CRAZY HORSE A legendary cabaret synonymous with beauty, elegance, sensuality and sophistication. A show performed by 19 exceptionally beautiful dancers, bathed in richly coloured and textured lighting designs. The current show is inspired by the endless theme of femininity .

Sun-Fri at 8:15 & 10:45 pm, Sat at 7:00, 9:30 & 11:45 pm. www.lecrazyhorseparis.com 12 ave George V (8th), 01 47 23 32 32 M° Alma-Marceau

FASHION FREAK SHOW

Photo © Paradis Latin

This latest addition to the Parisian cabaret scene is the masterwork of the French fashion designer Jean Paul Gaultier. This highly original revue, which is performed on the stage of the Folies Bergère, celebrates life and fashion and features actors, dancers and circus acts. Tues-Sat 8pm & Sat-Sun 3pm. www.foliesbergere.com Folies Bergère, 32 rue Richer (9th),01 44 79 98 60 M° Grands Boulevards

LIDO The current show, Paris Merveilles, is a wonderful song-and-dance spectacular

journey into Paris with stunning sets and 600 dazzling costumes. Daily. www.lido.fr 116bis ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 40 76 56 10 M° George V

MOULIN ROUGE This famous cabaret is home to the original cancan. The current show, Féerie, sparkles with talented performers, including the 60 Doriss girls and spectacular staging. Daily. www.moulinrouge.fr 82 blvd de Clichy (18th), 01 53 09 82 82 M° Blanche

PARADIS LATIN Le Théâtre Latin was built in 1803 and quickly became one of the chicest addresses in the Latin quarter. The theatre was re-built by Gustav Eiffel in 1889 and renamed the Paradis Latin.

The current show, Paradis à la Folie!, is a magical feast for the eyes and ears.

Daily 8 pm. www.paradislatin.com 28 rue du Cardinal Lemoine (5th), 01 43 25 28 28 M° Cardinal Lemoine/Jussieu w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 91

Address Book

ENTERTAINMENT For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris BARS & WINE BARS Badaboum

Located a few minutes from the Place de la Bastille, this fun bar offers excellent and original cocktails. The bar also features a small but very good snacking menu. 2bis rue des Taillandiers (11th), 01.48.06.50.70. M° Bastille

Buddha-Bar

This trend-setting cocktail bar and restaurant attracts both fashionistas and curious tourists, with a giant golden Buddha presiding over the scene and service that’s cooler-than-thou. 8 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 01.53.05.90.00. M° Concorde

Bar du Plaza Athénée

Absolute chic, with a decor that includes an impressive sculpted glass bar. 6pm-1:30am.

25 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.67.66.00.

M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Bar Le Baudelaire

This congenial bar in the Burgundy hotel is akin to an English club. Discover a host of creative cocktails. 6-8 rue Duphot (1st), 01.42.60.34.12.

M° Madeleine

Experimental Cocktail Bar

A fun bar hidden in the heart of the 2nd arrondissement where you can enjoy delicious cocktails and cool music. 37 rue Saint Sauveur (2nd), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Sentier

Harry’s New York Bar

This landmark establishment is a fine place to enjoy drinks at the roomy and frendly bar.

The traditional cocktail spot also serves up live piano music starting at 10pm. 5 rue Daunou (2nd), 01.42.61.71.14. M° Opéra

Hotel Costes Bar

This chic bar and lounge is an ideal and pricey Parisian spot for people watching in a sumptuous décor. 239 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.44.50.00. M° Tuileries

Hotel Providence

Enjoy creative cocktails or a glass of wine in this cosy bar on a cobblestone street in the lively Grands Boulevards neighbourhood. The spot is outfitted with a fireplace and a boudoir-style ambiance and the bartender can mix you a made-to-measure drink. 90 rue René Boulanger (10th), 01.46.34.34.04. M° Strasbourg Saint-Denis

Ice Kube Paris

The decoration is frozen into ice and the cocktails are served in solid ice glasses, so prepare yourself to face

BAR LE BAUDELAIRE | Bars & Wine Bars (1st) 92 W H E R E PA R I S I D E C E M B E R 2018

the frozen world of this -12°C bar. 1 Passage Ruelle (18th), 01.42.05.20.00, M° La Chapelle & Marx Dormoy

regions among others. 10 rue du Marché SaintHonoré (1st), 01.42.61.03.34. M° Pyramides

Juveniles

Les Jardins du Pont Neuf

This cosy and welcoming wine bar serves up fine French wines as well as wines from around the world and you can purchase bottles to take away. 47 rue de Richelieu (1st), 01.42.97.46.49.

M° Pyramides

Kléber Bar

High ceilings, ornate décor and fine service are hallmarks of this elegant bar in the Peninsula Hotel. Classic cocktails, signature mixes and a fine selection of wines and champagnes are all on the menu. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.78.

M° Boissière

Le Bristol Bar

With a stunning view of the City of Light’s famous bridges, this restaurant and bar has become a favourite with the city’s fun crowd, where they can go and enjoy great cocktails and say “santé” with each round. This is a perfect address for a drink before a dinner in the Quartier Latin or after a day spent at the Louvre. Quai de l’Horloge (1st), 06.30.15.83.02. M° Pont Neuf

Moonshiner

This speakeasy bar near the Place de la Bastille has an ambiance straight out of the 1920s complete with jazz music playing in the background. 5 rue Sedaine (11th), 09.50.73.12.99. M° Bréguet-Sabin

This discreet and elegant spot is ideal for enjoying cosy drinks including a variety of original cocktails and a fine selection of champagnes. 112 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. M° Miromesnil

Prescription Cocktail Club

Le Bar

The Left Bank hotel where Oscar Wilde died is a trendy spot for a cocktail redecorated with a voluptuous décor. 13 rue des Beaux-Arts (6th), 01.44.41.99.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés

This sophisticated cocktail bar, frequented by the beautiful people of the city, serves up carefully mixed drinks in cosy seated areas.

58 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 09.54.37.13.65.

M° Les Halles

Le Bar Long

CASINO

This posh bar located in the Royal Monceau is a perfect spot for a sophisticated cocktail or nightcap in a cosy setting. 37 ave Hoche (8th), 01.42.99.88.00. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile

La Closerie des Lilas

This trendy bar is excellent for delicious and original cocktails with cool music, friendly staff and tequila.

23 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Mabillon

The Ballroom

Casinos Barrière

France’s largest casino, with elegant decor, table games and slots. Jacket and tie for men; no jeans or running shoes. 3 ave de Ceinture, Enghien-lesBains, 01.39.34.13.17. Train from Gare du Nord

The bar of this mythical place remains magical.

Thankfully some things don’t change. 171 blvd du Montparnasse (6th), 01.40.51.34.50. M° Vavin

JAZZ CLUBS

Le Dokhan’s Champagne Bar

This club in a vaulted cellar in the heart of the Latin Quarter has been showcasing fine jazz music for the past six decades. The spot is rife with history, a Masonic lodge in the 18th century, the Knights Templar held meetings at this location in the Middle Ages. 5 rue de la Huchette (5th), 01.43.26.65.05. M° Saint-Michel

A stunning hotel bar replete with Louis Vuitton elevator featuring a fine selection of rare and classic champagnes. In the Radisson Blu Le Dokhan’s Hotel. 117 rue Lauriston (16th), 01.53.65.66.99. M° Victor Hugo

Le Lucien Bar

Every detail here is perfect from the temperature of the vintage white port to the dimensions of the glasses for gin and tonic. Hotel Fouquet’s Barrière.

46 ave George V (8th), 01.40.69.60.00. M° George V

Le Rubis

This quintessential Parisian wine bar attracts a local clientele into its relaxed atmosphere where you can enjoy wines from the Beaujolais and Burgundy

Caveau de la Huchette

Duc des Lombards

One of Paris’ oldest jazz clubs magnificently renovated by Andrée Putman’s collaborator, the talented Elliot Barnes. The Duc also boasts one of the best sound-systems in town and is now known as the House of Jazz. Daily performances, live recordings and a healthy mix of jazz man jams make this the address for Jazz. 42 rue des Lombards (1st), 01.42.33.22.88. M° Châtelet

HOTEL COSTES BAR | Bars & Wine Bars (1st)

ENTERTAINMENT

Address Book

Jazz Club Etoile

A true temple to jazz since it opened two decades ago, the club has welcomed the likes of Count Basie, B.B. King, Cab Calloway and Lionel Hampton. Thurs-Sat. 81 blvd Gouvion Saint-Cyr (17th), 01.40.68.30.42. M° Porte Maillot

New Morning

The legendary Parisian venue for jazz both classic and eclectic has hosted the world’s jazz greats for two decades: Art Blakey, Dizzy Gillespie, Stan Getz... Devoted jazz fans come here to listen to two hours of solid music and the crowd begins to accumulate around 8 pm, so come early. 7-9 rue des Petites-Ecuries (10th), 01.45.23.51.41. M° Château d’Eau

GENTLEMEN’S CLUBS Pink Paradise

The first table-dancing show in Paris and where everyone who still wants to party goes after all the other clubs are done for the night.

Daily 10.30 pm-6 am. 36 rue de Ponthieu (8th), 06.34.57.40.19. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Secret Square

The French capital’s glamorous restaurant and club is where clients are treated to a sexy striptease show thanks to the dancers performing in a jewel-box décor. The show features 20 to 30 dancers and guests are treated to an unforgettable show. 27 ave des Ternes (17th) , 01.47.66.45.00. M° Ternes

NIGHT CLUBS

armchairs. The huge dance floor in the discoteque is a dancer’s dream. 2bis ave Foch (16th), 01.45.00.45.00. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile

champagne in a splendid décor created by Erté.

58 rue Bassano (8th), 01.47.20.02.90. M° George V

Le Mona Lisa

This private club, conceived and designed by David Lynch, offers excellent cocktails, wine and spirits, finger food and food tastings. Nonmembers are admitted after midnight. 142 rue de Montmartre (2nd), 01.40.13.12.33. M° Sentier/ Grands Boulevards

Just footsteps from the Louvre this friendly and festive club brings in the fashion crowd and plenty of Parisian trendsetters. The chic and arty clientele enjoys a programme of hip-hop, rock and a touch of electro pop. The establishment also boasts a restaurant . Tues-Sat 8pm-6am.

47 rue Berger (1st), 01 40 13 12 12. M° Louvre-Rivoli

Le Montana

This nightclub in the heart of the Saint-Germaindes-Prés neighbourhood is one of the capital’s trendiest and most select spots. The bar is on the ground floor and the dance floor, downstairs, in the vaulted cellars. 28 rue Saint Benoît (6th), 01.44.39.71.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Le Social Club

Trendy spot for enjoying excellent live music, tasty drinks and even a cigarette in the club’s smoking room. 142 rue Montmartre (2nd), 06.84.80.99.40. M° Bourse

Les Bains

This club, in the hotel of the same name, is one of the places to be for a slice of great Parisian nightlife. The venue hosts live shows, concerts as well as resident and guest DJs featuring hip-hop, soul and tunes from the 1970s taking guests back into the club’s glory days. Tues-Sat, midnight until dawn. 7 rue du Bourg-l’Abbé (3rd), 01.42.77.07.07. M° Rambuteau

Pachamama

L’Arc Paris

Favoured by French and international celebrities, enjoy cocktails and fine music with a gorgeous view of the Arc de Triomphe.

The club has a great dance floor in black and white veined marble, a fumoir and VIP loges.

Thurs-Sat 11pm-5am. 12 rue de Presbourg (16th), 06.59.21.32.44. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile

Le Baron

You can club until dawn at this celebrated and celebrity filled night spot. Its cabaret-like ambiance - there’s live music - attracts a trendy, elite crowd. Look your best to get past the door.

6 ave Marceau (8th), 01.47.20.04.01. M° Alma-Marceau

Le Duplex

Regulars appreciate the clubby and friendly atmosphere at this comfortable Parisian club replete with gastronomic restaurant whose cosy atmosphere is highlighted by Chesterfield

LE LUCIEN BAR

Silencio

Titty Twister

This trendy loft-like club is a chic address for drinks and great music. The popular establishment has the added feature of a smoking room with a pool table as well as a tequila stand along with eclectic cocktails and large size drinks for sharing. Mon-Sat 9pm-5am.

5 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.50.23. M° George V

Vanity Paris

This sought-after venue offers hip-hop vibes in a luxurious setting where the champagne flows in every corner. Special soirées are held every night including Throwback Thursday for an old school style party. The door policy is strict so be sure to dress smart. Tues-Sat 11:30pm-6am. 25 rue de Richelieu (1st), 06 69 72 79 79. M° Pyramides

VIP Room

One of the most exclusive clubs on the Parisian nightlife scene, this chic haven for the rich and famous lets you dance the night away to hip hop and house music. 188 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.58.36.46.00. M° Palais Royal

MAGICAL & OPERA SHOWS

This delightful dinner-club spread out over four beautifully decorated floors in a 19th century building by Gustave Eiffel is just footsteps away from the Bastille. Enjoy drinks, dinner or a DJ set in a festive South American ambiance. Features include a monumental Art Deco staircase, a ballroom, a restaurant showcasing Latin American specialties and a smoking room. Daily from 5pm. 46-48 rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine (12th), 01.55.78.84.75. M° Bastille

Le Bel Canto

Palais Maillot

Le Double Fond

A luxurious nightclub known for its gala evenings. Fridays are fashion oriented while Saturdays feature guest DJs. Fri-Sat 11:30pm-6am. 2 Place Porte Maillot (17th), 01.58.56.20.55. M° Porte-Maillot

Raspoutine

This mythical Parisian venue remains an authentic night spot to enjoy cocktails and

| Bars & Wine Bars (8th)

Nestled on the banks of the Seine, this restaurant featuring food with a southern French and Italian flair brings you the luxury of dining while enjoying the music of, among others, Verdi, Rossini, Mozart, or Puccini performed by talented young singers from the conservatory of the Paris Opera. Daily D only from 7:30pm. 72 Quai de l’Hôtel de Ville (4th), 01.42.78.30.18. M° Pont Marie This unique venue is dedicated to the world of magic. You can enjoy drinks or dinner at the bar or at your table served by waiters who are English-speaking magicians who perform tableside. Downstairs a host of unique, interactive and humorous magic shows are held from Wednesday to Sunday. 11 Place du Marché Sainte-Catherine (4th), 01.42.71.40.20. M° Saint-Paul

L’ARC PARIS

| Night Clubs (16th) w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 93

The Guide

SERVICES

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris EUROSTAR & TRAINS

MEDICAL SERVICES

Eurostar - Aim to arrive at least 30 minutes

American Hospital of Paris - 63 blvd Victor Hugo,

before departure time or you will risk not being allowed to board the train. If you still need to pick up your ticket at the station you should arrive at least an hour before your scheduled departure. 08.92.35.35.39. www.eurostar.com

SNCF - TGV trains leave from varying

stations (www.sncf.com). Thalys, links Paris to Brussels and Amsterdam (www.thalys.com).

You can buy a ticket in any station for any destination; your ticket will indicate your departure station. Punch your ticket in the composteur before boarding your train or risk being fined.

LIMOUSINES Biribin – Tel: 01.43.48.65.65 Chabé Limousines – Tel: 01.41.20.95.10 FIRST Limousine – Tel: 01.41.40.99.99 Edward Limousines – Tel: 01.53.66.95.15 MC Plaza – Tel: 01.58.62.57.47 Meet the French – Tel: 01.53.53.14.94 My Daily Driver – Tel: 01.43.24.28.15 MY STS – Tel: 01.74.54.50.08 Premier Limousine – Tel: 01.47.31.80.50 Service Prestige – Tel: 01.44.29.29.44

92200 Neuilly-sur-Seine, 01.46.41.25.25.

M° Pont de Neuilly British American Pharmacy - 1 rue Auber (9th), 01.42.65.88.29. M° Opéra Pharmacie des Champs-Elysées (24/24) 84 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.02.41.

M° Franklin Roosevelt Pharmacie Monge  74 rue Monge (5th), 01.43.31.39.44. M° Place Monge

PARIS DISTRICTS

RENTAL CARS & SCOOTERS

Avis - Tel: 08.21.23.07.60, www.avis.fr Budget - Tel: 08.25.00.35.64, www.budget.fr First GT Location - Tel: 01.41.19.29.62, www.firstgtlocation.fr Freescoot - Tel: 01.44.07.06.72, www.freescoot.com Europcar - Tel: 08.25.35.83.58, www.europcar.fr Hertz - Tel: 08.25.86.18.61, www.hertz.fr

TAX REFUND When shopping do not forget to claim back the taxes paid. Most boutiques require a minimum amount spent in the one day (and in the same store) before you can apply for the tax refund. Along with your payment simply show them your passport and ask them to fill in the detaxe form for you, which you will later need customs to stamp at the airport before flying off.

1st ARRONDISSEMENT - The Louvre museum housing the Mona Lisa overlooks the Tuileries Gardens.

2nd ARRONDISSEMENT - Rue Etienne Marcel and the Place des Victoires are lined with trendy boutiques.

3rd - 4th ARRONDISSEMENT - Orthodox Jews rub shoulders with the gay crowd in the Marais, the city’s oldest existing neighborhood.

5th ARRONDISSEMENT - Where you will find the young crowds hanging out at Place St Michel and on Rue Mouffetard, a lively market street.

HAIR SALONS

REAL ESTATE AGENCIES

6th ARRONDISSEMENT - The epitome of Left Bank intellectual chic, with luxury shops and famous cafés.

Alexandre de Paris - 3 ave Matignon (8th),

Barnes Paris - 120 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th),

7th ARRONDISSEMENT - Stroll the

01.42.25.57.90. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Carita - 11 Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.94.11.11. M° Concorde Christophe-Nicolas Biot - 52 rue Saint-André des Arts (6th), 01.43.26.58.21. M° Odéon Coiffirst - 52 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.07.11.01. M° Madeleine David Mallett - 14 rue Notre-Dame des Victoires (2nd), 01.40.20.00.23. M° Bourse Institut Leonor Greyl - 15 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.42.65.32.26. M° Madeleine L’instant 2moss - 5 Square de l’Opéra-Louis Jouvet (9th), 01.44.56.03.66. M° Madeleine Salon Konfidentiel - 267 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.61.05.35. M° Concorde Salon Rossano Ferretti - 4 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.60.31.95. M° Concorde

01.85.34.70.70. M° Saint-Philippe-du-Roule

Daniel Féau - 140 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.53.07.07. M° Saint-Philippe-du-Roule Emile Garcin - 24 rue du Boccador (8th), 01.58.12.02.02. M° Alma-Marceau Espaces Atypiques - 64 rue des Tournelles (3rd), 01.42.71.03.84. M° Bréguet-Sabin Philippe Menager & Nicolas Hug - 31 rue de Tournon (6th), 01.53.10.22.60. M° Mabillon Paris Attitude - 21 rue Vauvenargues (18th), 01.42.96.31.46. M° Richelieu-Drouot Sefri-Cime - 20 place de Catalogne (14th), 01.40.48.57.00. M° Gaité Vingt Paris - 253 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.44.55.09.80. M° Concorde

impeccable Champ de Mars, visit Napoleon’s tomb at Les Invalides and see the Impressionists at the Musée d’Orsay.

8th ARRONDISSEMENT - High fashion and galleries are on Avenue Montaigne and Rue St-Honoré, while the Place de la Madeleine offers gourmet food shops.

9th ARRONDISSEMENT - Find the

sumptuous Opéra Garnier, and the ever-busy department stores Galeries Lafayette and Printemps on the Boulevard Haussmann.

10th ARRONDISSEMENT - Take a boat tour for a closeup look at canal locks in action. The quais de Jemmapes and Valmy are where you will find fun boutiques and restaurants.

11th- 12th ARRONDISSEMENT - The areas around the Bastille come alive at night with nightclubs and bars.

13th - 14th - 15th ARRONDISSEMENT - The Tour Montparnasse is surrounded by traditional crepe restaurants while Chinatown is found near Place d’Italie.

16th - 17th ARRONDISSEMENT - The Place du Trocadéro offers a picture-perfect view of the Eiffel Tower.

18th ARRONDISSEMENT - Near the Sacré Coeur, portrait artists crowd around the Place du Tertre. Down the hill in Pigalle, watch the dancers at the Moulin Rouge.

19th - 20th ARRONDISSEMENT - Paris’s famous neighbourhood where you can pay your respects to Oscar Wilde and Jim Morrison at the Père Lachaise cemetery.

94 W H E R E PA R I S I D E C E M B E R 2018

Getting to and from the Airport TO CHARLES DE GAULLE (ROISSY) AIRPORT Le Bus Direct-Paris Aéroport buses (08 92 35 08 20) leave daily from Montparnasse (14 rue du Commandant Mouchotte, 15th, M° Montparnasse) and Gare de Lyon (20 blvd Diderot, 12th, M° Gare de Lyon), every 30 minutes, 5:30am-10:30pm, 6:15am-10:45pm, from airport (17€ one way, 30€ round trip). These buses also leave from the Arc de Triomphe (1 ave Carnot, 17th, M° Etoile), Porte Maillot (Blvd Gouvion St Cyr, 17th, M° Porte Maillot), Trocadéro (42-46 ave du Président Wilson, 16th, M° Trocadéro) and the Eiffel Tower (18-20 rue Jean Rey, 7th, RER Champs de Mars-Tour Eiffel), every 30 minutes, 5:45am-11pm, 6am-11:15pm, from airport (17€ one way, 30€ round trip). Take RER B (9.50€) or catch the Roissybus (10€) at 11 rue Scribe, 9th, M° Opéra, every 15 minutes between 5:45am and 8pm, every 20 minutes between 7pm and 10pm and every 30 minutes between 10pm and 11pm. (01 58 76 16 16). www.aeroportsdeparis.fr

TO ORLY AIRPORT The RER B, direction St-Rémy, connects with Orlyval, an automatic train, at Antony.

Orlyval runs every 5-7 minutes, 6am-11pm (8.70€). The RER C direction MassyVerrières connects with a shuttle bus that goes to Orly (6.45€). Or take Orlybus outside the Denfert-Rochereau Métro stop (14th), every 20 minutes 5:35am-11pm (7.20€). Bus Direct-Paris Aéroport buses leave from the Arc de Triomphe (1 ave Carnot, 17th, M° Etoile), Trocadéro (42-46 ave du Président Wilson, 16th, M°

Trocadéro), the Eiffel Tower (18-20 rue Jean Rey, 7th, RER Champs de Mars-Tour Eiffel), La Motte-Picquet (88 ave de Suffren, 15th, M° La Motte-Picquet-Grenelle) and Gare Montparnasse (Rue du commandant Mouchotte, M° Gare Montparnasse) every 20 minutes, 4:50am-10:30pm, 6am-11:40pm, from airport (12€ one way, 20€ round trip). www.aeroportsdeparis.fr

TO BEAUVAIS AIRPORT Buses leave daily from the bus parking lot on Blvd Pershing near Hotel Concorde Lafayette (17th, M° Porte Maillot). Arrive 3 hours and 15 minutes before departure time (13€). Or take TER train from Gare du Nord to Beauvais (11.50€, 1 hr 20 min), then taxi to airport.

TRAVEL BETWEEN CHARLES DE GAULLE AIRPORT AND ORLY AIRPORT Bus Direct-Paris Aéroport buses leave daily from Charles de Gaulle (Roissy) from 6am to 10:15pm for Orly Airport/departures from Orly Airport to Charles de Gaulle Airport from 6:30am to 10:30pm. (21€ one way, 36€ round trip).

Frequency: every 20 minutes. Journey takes 45 to 60 minutes. Also RER B from Charles de Gaulle to the Antony station then the OrlyVal service to Orly Sud. OrlyVal metros leave daily from 6am-11pm from Antony and Orly Sud. Travel time between the two airports is about 1 hour and 10 minutes. www.lebusdirect.com

ADVERTORIAL

Visitors Bureau Paris has a new welcome centre for visitors located right inside the City Hall. Reception teams, documentation, information on events, tours and outings, bookings and passes are all available at the Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau welcome centre. Visitors are welcome seven days a week in the main office located at 29 rue de Rivoli (4th), M° Hôtel de Ville.

Also located at the Gare du Nord (10th) www.parisinfo.com

L’IBIS ROUGE

THE LUXURY VINTAGE BOUTIQUE This beautiful and original boutique in the heart of Saint Germain des Prés offers a unique array of vintage couture fashion and jewellery by Chanel, Lanvin, YSL, Christian Lacroix… You will also find a fine selection of vintage crocodile bags and contemporary jewellery pieces from French and foreign designers.

35 Blvd Raspail (7th) M° Sèvres-Babylone Tel: +33 (0)1 45 48 98 21 Tuesday to Saturday 12 - 7pm ibis-rouge@wanadoo.fr Libisrouge

OTCP Photos © Marc Bertrand / Paris Tourist Office

YOUR KEY TO

PARIS

SCAN TO DISCOVER!

DIGITAL MAP

www.parismap.fr

Body Relaxation High quality massage, directly in your hotel room.

English, French, Spanish spoken.

7/7 call 06 85 81 09 05 0033 (0)6 85 81 09 05

w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 95

SERVICES

Paris Metro ◗ Paris is crossed by 14 Métro lines and five RER (express suburban) lines, all numbered and named for their final destination (terminus). Did you know that there are 300 stations that make up Paris’ metro system?

96 W HE R E PA R I S I D E C E M B E R 2018

◗ Each Métro trip requires one ticket regardless of how many transfers you make, though you must buy an extra ticket for the RER outside the city limits. Keep your ticket until you exit.

◗ Tickets are sold in all stations and in cafés (tabacs) with a ticket sign outside, single (1.90€/2€ if purchased on a bus) or by 10 (un carnet - 14.50€).

This map includes the new tramway line.

◗ “Paris Visite” passes offer unlimited travel on the Métro and buses (1day, 2-day, 3-day, 5-day).

The Métro and RER start running at 5:30am, and stop around 1 am.

◗ While the Métro is an extremely safe way to travel, watch out for pickpockets in crowded trains and stations.

For information in English, call the transportation company (RATP) directly at 08.92.68.41.14.

FREE INTERACTIVE

MAP OF PARIS www.parismap.fr

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My Paris

LUCAS GOUABLIN

HEAD CONCIERGE AT BRACH PARIS

Ducasse sur Seine

Paris is known around the world as the City of Light. What would you recommend visitors do in the evenings to really take in its beauty?

A bicycle or Segway city tour to enjoy the main sightseeing spots of the city. You can end your evening at Girafe restaurant for dinner in front of the Eiffel Tower. You will enjoy the shining show, which starts each hour and lasts for 5 minutes, unfold before your eyes.

As a culinary capital what are three of your favourite restaurants that you would recommend our readers to try?

For a gastronomical experience I will suggest Restaurant du Palais Royal. If you are looking for a brasserie, try Réjane. For a nice bistro, Bouillon Pigalle will be perfect for a typical Parisian atmosphere.

What are the top three monuments not to be missed while in Paris?

Musée Jacquemart-André to admire the architecture and the most beautiful private collection of Parisian art near the Champs-Elysées. The winter garden embellished with an extraordinary dual revolution staircase is one of my favourite parts. Palais Royal. It’s one of every Parisian’s favourite places for a stroll. The ComédieFrançaise, the Palais-Royal theatre and the Grand Véfour restaurant, which is a listed 98 W HE R E PA R I S I D E C E M B E R 2018

Galerie Vivienne

Marché Paul Bert & Serpette

Brasserie Réjane

historical monument. Baccarat is a museum exhibiting in Paris a selection of pieces made by the Baccarat crystal factory, in Lorraine.

is a great family amusement park with attractions and the access to the Louis Vuitton Foundation through the garden is free. A cruise of Canal Saint-Martin to discover the charm of the Saint Martin canal lined with hundred-year-old trees. Romantic and unusual. Gardening workshop on the roof of the Brach with the gardener.

If our readers wanted to spend their day shopping, would you recommend they do so on the Right Bank or the Left Bank?

Marché Paul Bert & Serpette where 350 antique dealers offer you the best of antiques and design. Marché des EnfantsRouges market will offer you a wide selection of fresh seasonal produce. Galerie Vivienne, over 176 meters long and under a glass canopy that illuminates the old mosaic floor, boasts shops that display refined luxury What would be the most romantic date in the capital of romance?

In my opinion a dinner cruise on the Seine with Ducasse sur Seine on the first electric boat of the city will be the best option. You will enjoy a wonderful gastronomic dinner with a nice general view of the city by night. All the lights under the many historic bridges and monuments of Paris create a romantic atmosphere.

What would you recommend for families to discover while visiting the French capital?

Jardin d’Acclimatation in Bois de Boulogne

What are your favourite cocktail bars in the city?

Discover the unusual speakeasy Moonshiner bar hidden at the back of a pizzeria. Ostrea et Perdition, a hidden bar under an oyster bar. And the Speakeasy Jazz Club.

Brunch and high tea are Sunday favourites, where would you suggest to our readers to enjoy the best treats?

Teatime & Treats at Sébastien Gaudard next to the Tuilerie Garden. And brunch at Brach Hotel.

My Perfect Day 9am: Quick training session at Le Club de Sport at the Brach Hotel then go to Carette for breakfast at Place du Trocadéro 12pm: Lunch at Jòia 3pm: Visit the Marmottan Monet museum 9pm: Dinner at L’Astrance

where

®

Your Guide to the World

Lucas Gouablin © Guillaume de Laubier; Galerie Vivienne © iStock photo 2018 © S. Greg Panosian; Nolinski Brasserie Réjane © Guillame de Laubier; Marché Paul Bert & Serpette © Stéphane Asseline; Ducasse en Seine © Pierre Monetta

Jardin d’Acclimatation

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