Where Magazine Paris Oct 2018

OC T OBE R 2 0 18

PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE

Issue N o 297

®

Gaultier

CAN-CANS INTO A NEW CABARET FA SHION • ARTS & AT TR AC TIONS • DINING • ENTERTAINMENT • M APS

October PERSONALISE YOUR PARIS AT WHERETRAVELER.COM

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PARIS | CONTENTS

The guide

10

Hot Dates

This month’s calendar of must-see events

22 SHOPPING

14

Jean Paul Gaultier Gets Freaky

The latest trends and the hottest fashions

18

Meet the famous French designer who is bringing a new cabaret to the city

A Taste of Bordeaux Escape to France’s wine country

48 ARTS & ATTRACTIONS

This month’s round-up of exhibitions and attractions 60 DINING

Our selection of the month’s finest restaurants 74 ENTERTAINMENT

This month’s best events and shows 86 SERVICES

Your guide to getting around the city with maps and transport listings OC T OBE R 2 0 18 Issue N o 297

PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE ®

Gaultier

CAN-CANS INTO A NEW CABARET

SIA PHOT

FA SHION • ARTS & AT TR AC TIONS • DINING • ENTERTAINMENT • M APS

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Turn to page 14 to get Freaky with Jean Paul Gaultier Cover Photo © Gorka Postgoj

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A LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

PUBLISHER AND GENERAL MANAGER

Pascal Tranchant* Tel: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 42 EDITORINCHIEF Sandra Iskander*

He is talented, epitomises French fashion and is very, very Parisian and

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Alexander Lobrano, Patricia Valicenti*

in our latest issue we meet with fashion designer Jean Paul Gaultier

ART DIRECTOR  PRODUCTION MANAGER Céline Février*

who proves his talents know no bounds as he brings to the City of

GRAPHIC DESIGN MANAGER Laura Zaharia*

Light his very own cabaret. The French designer shares with us his

SHOPPING MAPS ILLUSTRATOR Aline Zalko SALES DIRECTOR Jean-Louis Roux-Fouillet

inspirations, his Paris and why he named his theatrical show Fashion

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Freak Show.

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This month marks the season of the arts and the French capital

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is welcoming not just one major event but two fairs that avid art collectors will not want to miss. FIAC, the International Contemporary Art Fair, will be held for the 45th time and will bring together 193 different galleries from 27 countries. Meanwhile, the Art Elysées - Art & Design show will be bringing together 88 French and international galleries.

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Fashion and Paris go hand in hand and in our Fashion Squared photo

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shoot we showcase tartan, this season’s hottest trend, inspiring you

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to get out there and embrace the grunge-favoured print. And where

PRESIDENT Donna W. Kessler

better to wear the latest fashions than in the city’s new eateries. Turn to our Dining pages to discover where to enjoy the best French fare, flavoursome Brazilian Japanese fusion tapas and where to indulge in high tea, the vegan way.

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Meanwhile, in our Entertainment section you will find a round up of bars, operas, sexy cabarets and some great ideas on how to celebrate Halloween.

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4, Rue Aubry le boucher, Paris Find you nearest store atcamper.com Dowload here your exclusive discount for any Paris Camper Store cam.pr/10offParis

October

HOT DATES Discover the best of October in Paris

Photo Exhibition ALL MONTH In the charming art gallery, Galerie de l’Instant, in the Marais neighbourhood, admire the works of Stephanie Pfriender Stylander via the show The Untamed Eye. The show, a retrospective of the American photographer’s works from 1990 to 2006, brings together some of Stephanie’s most intriguing black and white images, and coincides with the release of her fashion and celebrity book, of the same name.

46 rue de Poitou (3rd), 01 44 54 94 09

10 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO BBEERR 2018 2018

Christina Kruse, Man in The Backseat NYC, 1995 © Stéphanie Pfriender Stylander, Courtesy Galerie de l’Instant, Paris; Perruche © Jérôme Galland; Angelina © Aimery Chemin, Fête des Vendanges ® Thomas Dupaigne

PARIS THIS MONTH

Wine with a View ALL MONTH Have a drink while looking down on the city from the Printemps rooftop where the highly-anticipated restaurant and bar Perruche recently opened. Break up your day of shopping at the famous department store with lunch or a glass of French wine as you take in the gorgeous view of the city. And with Perruche open until 2am you can even wind down after your day with dinner and drinks and catch a glimpse of the Eiffel Tower sparkling up the Parisian skyline.

2 rue du Havre (9th), 01 42 82 60 00

Tea with Art ALL MONTH Paris’s famous tea salon, Angelina, is celebrating the current art exhibition Alphonse Mucha at the Musée du Luxembourg with a new pastry that has been created exclusively for the show. Bite into Rêverie, with its rose mousse and heart of berries, after taking in the Art Nouveau exhibition and spell out a perfect afternoon in Paris.

19 rue de Vaugirard (6th), 01 46 34 31 19

Harvest Time OCTOBER 10 TO 14 This year marks the 85th anniversary of the Fête des Vendanges de Montmartre, with the oldest vineyard in the French capital celebrating the grape-picking season. This year the festival’s theme celebrates peace and the end of the centenary celebrations of World War I by putting together a variety of events to entertain and inspire. The 5-day festival will host an open yoga class in the Louise Michel Square, the bars in the neighbourhood will open their doors for the Décibels Vendanges music festival, and a parade will take place on Saturday the 13th in the heart of the Montmartre vineyard. Make sure you visit fetedesvendangesdemontmartre. com for the full programme.

Rue des Saules (18th) w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 11

PARIS THIS MONTH

Trades Shows & Arts Fair OCTOBER 1-7 FOIRE DE CHATOU This show, which is held twice a year draws some 500 merchants from all over France displaying antiques, wares and bric-a-brac reflecting regional traditions, crafts and gastronomy all spread out over a miniature village setting on an island in the Seine. An exhibition entitled Heroes of Our Childhood, 1960-1990, is being held at this year’s show. The show is open from 10am to 7pm. www.foiredechatou.com Ile des Impressionnistes, 78400 Chatou, 01 34 80 66 00

OCTOBER 6 The City of Light shines brighter with the La Nuit Blanche annual event that sees free entertainment organised throughout the city. Locals and visitors are invited to take in exhibitions, street art and concerts from dusk till dawn, with the late-night event this year seeing four different circuits put together by the city.

Turn to our Entertainment pages for more information.

This show, referred to as the Paris Asian Art Fair, presents a rigorous selection of contemporary works from more than 39 Asian and western art galleries committed to supporting contemporary Asian artists on an international level. This year emerging Japanese art is being showcased.

The show is open from 12 to 8pm, from 11am to 7pm on the 20th and from 11am to 5pm on the 21st. www.asianowparis.com 9 ave Hoche (8th)

OCTOBER 18-21 OUTSIDER ART FAIR This show, being held in Paris for the 6th time, offers an opportunity to take in Self-Taught Art, Art Brut and Outsider Art from 37 international galleries including both established and emerging galleries. The show is open from 11am to 8pm, from 6pm to 9pm on the 18th, closes at 6pm on the 21st. www.outsiderartfair.com Atelier Richelieu, 60 rue de Richelieu (2nd)

OCTOBER 26-28 PARIS COMIC CON

At the Races OCTOBER 6 & 7 The world’s best thoroughbreds will be competing this weekend for the Qatar Prix de l’Arc de Triomphe at the Longchamp racecourse. Visit www.prixarcdetriomphe. com to book your tickets for this adrenalin-filled and very chic international event.

Food Festival OCTOBER 5 TO 7 Discover the flavoursome Korean cuisine with the all-new Fête de la K-Food. The Korean food festival is a fun and delicious way to sample the hot and spicy cuisine with food stands, tastings and workshops organised over the 3-day event at the Chalet du Lac in the Bois de Vincennes. For all other information and programming, be sure to visit www.kfood-fete.fr 12 W H E R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2018

The pop culture show is back in Paris once again this year. The event showcases comics, films, television, toys and video games and features special guests. Fans can meet up with creators, artists and actors and participate in the French Championships of Cosplay. The show is open from 9:30am to 7pm and until 6pm on the 28th. www.comic-con-paris.com Grande Halle de la Villette, 211 ave Jean Jaurès (19th)

OCTOBER 26-31 HORS-SERIE MAISON

BY FOIRE DE PARIS This show devoted to everything for the home brings together some 350 exhibitors. Decorative objects, design, kitchens, verandas, fireplaces and more are all waiting to be discovered. Innovations, inventions, gastronomy and workshops for adults and children are all on the agenda. The show is open from 10am to 7pm. www.foiredeparis.fr Paris Expo blvd Victor, Porte de Versailles (15th)

OCTOBER 31 SALON DU CHOCOLAT A heavenly show where chocolate is the guest of honour. Exhibitions, workshops, tastings and a daily fashion show with dresses made with chocolate are all on the agenda. This year’s focus is on cocoa, its origins, its growing regions and its virtues and the show welcomes cocoa producers from around the world. There is a section of the show, Chocolat Junior, devoted to children with workshops and adventurefilled games. The show is open from 10am to 7pm. www.salonduchocolat.fr Paris Expo blvd Victor, Porte de Versailles (15th)

Abdelkader Benchamman, Neither the sky nor the earth -Biennale de Sharjah 2017 - ® Galerie du jour Agnès b. et Isabelle Van Den Eynde; Hippodrome de Paris Longchamp © ScoopDyga; Fête de la K-Food DR

Paris by Night

OCTOBER 17-21 ASIA NOW 2018

Photo : Jean–François Robert

Interview

Do you think the fashion world tends to attract and bring out the “freakiness” in people?

“

The question to ask is what is really freaky nowadays.

14 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2018

”

JEAN PAUL GAULTIER

Gets Freaky

By Sandra Iskander

C

Jean Paul Gaultier © Peter Lindbergh; Fashion Freak Show Photo © Luke Austin

elebrated fashion designer Jean Paul Gaultier, famous for his cone bra designs and his nautical print, has changed the way we look at fashion, has worked with some of the world’s most talented and fashion icons including Madonna and Kylie Minogue, and now the designer is bringing his talents to the all-new cabaret, Fashion Freak Show.

The self-confessed lover of “freaks” confides that he has “always loved freaks, weirdoes, agitators, the mixing of different aesthetics, the unexpected encounters.” And from the man who always puts on quite the spectacle with his own runway shows, his cabaret is set to embrace more of his theatrical tendencies and form a natural extension from his fashion shows to his cabaret.

“I discovered the entertainment world at the age of nine while watching a Folies Bergère revue on TV. And I found out what a fashion show was through Jacques Becker’s film Falbalas, in which Micheline Presle falls in love with a fashion designer played by Raymond Rouleau. With the Fashion Freak Show I intend to bring these two worlds together,” Gaultier explains. “In every fashion show that I have presented from the very beginning of my career I would always put a bit of a show in it. It could be Edwige Belmore singing My Way, the Sid Viscous version in 1979, or Dita von Teese doing a striptease at couture in 2010 but there would always be an element of a show,” he continues.

When deciding on the name of the cabaret, Fashion Freak Show, the designer confides that he “always loved difference and tried to show it throughout my career. So maybe if you’re different you’re considered freaky. I want to show difference. For there is beauty to be found everywhere, it all depends on how one chooses to look at it. This transgressive energy will be on show for all to see. This show is the story of my life, things I have experienced, seen and loved. And also, stories that I have never told before. It will snake through four decades of my life, different periods of my career, from my childhood to my early career, from my greatest fashion shows to the wild nights. I will draw from the people who have inspired my fashions, from filmmakers to pop stars, for this revue production will combine singing, dancing and acting and fulfil my childhood dream of making a show. The Fashion Freak Show is also an explosive playlist of hits that have inspired me throughout my life, from disco to funk, from pop to rock and also, new wave and punk. I asked my friend Nile Rodgers to produce the soundtrack and compose and record original music for the show. It will be a grand party!”

Of course, any party hosted by Jean Paul Gaultier means some fabulous fashions and for his first cabaret, the designer designed “tens of new exclusive costumes to incorporate within an exuberant scenography without forgetting my most iconic creations as the famed Blond Ambition tour corset for Madonna, the sailor striped t-shirt or skirt for men.” w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 15

Interview

Spending “so much time dressing others that I dress very simply now,” the designer loves to look at what people are wearing, especially if they are not “total looks”, sharing that “I love when people try to express their personality through clothes. It doesn’t always work but I don’t like to judge.” The French designer who declares he would “stop” what he is doing the day he is no longer inspired to design, explains that he loves “to dress those who love my clothes and through that who love me. In a way I have become a couturier to be loved as I realised that my work was my passport to people’s hearts.

I have never set out consciously to provoke. If you do that it never works.

For example, when I did the corset dress I noticed that my girlfriends would wear just a bra underneath a jacket. Their mothers burned their bras, but they wanted to be sexy again on their own terms. I also presented ‘l’homme objet’ as I felt that the men could be seen as on object. I was always horrified by this expression ‘soit belle et tais toi’, be beautiful and shut up. I was brought up by women, by my mother and my grandmother, and I always thought that women were more intelligent and stronger than men. And I wanted to show it in my collections. Even though looking at my fashion shows some people would say that my clothes are unwearable it is not true.

I have always designed real clothes and it was with the styling that I would turn them around.”

show at the Grand Rex cinema, [and] my statue is at the Musée Grévin.”

Though it isn’t only other fashion items and the fashion capital that inspire his designs, with strong women also pushing his creativity, as he explains that “my collaboration with Madonna is often taken as an example [of the Jean Paul Gaultier look] and it is true that we share the same values, but I love all those who have a strong character and who are not afraid to express it. I have previously invited Beth [Ditto] and Dita [von Teese] [to be part of my shows] because I love them, and I love what they do. Designers need to express the spirit of the times. We are all expressing what is happening around us, the changes in society. So, I would like to think that my couture is in tune with the society that we live in.”

After people have watched your show what would you like them to walk out thinking?

I would like them to walk out with a smile on their face and with a spirit open to difference.

And it is his way of working “on a tradition and turning it on its head”, that has set Gaultier apart from other designers. Inspired by everything and anything, Gaultier has the admirable ability to take anything and turn it into the season’s must-have. Seemingly never running out of ideas, Gaultier explains that “everything can be an inspiration. Even a mistake. Once I saw advertising in the street and I thought that models had a wool hat, scarf and gloves all in one. I doubled back to see it and realised that it was only the way it was photographed but it inspired me to do an all-in-one hat.”

For the designer who epitomises Paris for many around the world, the French capital is also an important source of inspiration for him, explaining “I grew up in the suburbs of Paris, in Arcueil and there was always this fascination with Paris that started at the Porte d’Orléans. But I would say that my Paris is full of clichés and I love it that way. I have been inspired by the Tour Eiffel, I have put [a] Moulin Rouge print on a couture dress, I [held] my last ready-to-wear 16 W HE R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2018

”

This level of excitement is what also makes Gaultier so fascinating. After decades in the fashion industry, he is still able to be excited about new projects and new ideas. The little boy who wanted to be a pastry chef when he grew up confesses that “my work is my life and I love it and enjoy it. I love the point where I am in my life. I never thought that I would do an exhibition that will travel for 5 years or that I will do a theatre show. I have all the freedom I want and can express myself in new ways.”

Fashion Freak Show starts on the 2nd of October at the Folies Bergère.

Turn to out Entertainment section for more information.

Fashion Freak Show Photos © Luke Austin

“

And it is with this kind of thought that has Gaultier admired and studied internationally with his creations exhibited in museums around the world from Paris to Melbourne. “I don’t think that fashion is art, it is a craft. And for years I didn’t want to do an exhibition as I see fashion as something alive, clothes on a hanger or on a mannequin don’t really interest me. But when I met the team of the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts I realised that I could do with them an exhibition that would not be static and boring. There were talking mannequins that were developed in collaboration with Denis Marleau and UBU Theatre Company in Montreal, the exhibition was not chronological, but it was presented by my codes, or rather my obsessions and it turned into this great adventure that lasted [for] more than five years, travelled to 4 continents, 9 countries and 12 different cities. More than 2 million people have seen it.”

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Weekend Getaway

A TASTE OF BORDEAUX How to Spend a Perfect 48 Hours

in the World Capital of Wine

By Alexander Lobrano

It may be almost 590 kilometres from Paris, but with the completion of the last segment of dedicated high-speed rail track between the two cities last July, Bordeaux is now a mere two hours from Paris, and better still, this very comfortable train travel is between two centre-city rail stations that are easily accessed.

The new rail line is an impressive achievement, too, since it took five years and 7.9 billion euros to build and involved constructing over 400 new dedicated structures, including twenty-four bridges.

This new ease of access is only one reason for the surging popularity of the elegant town the French poetically call “Le Port de la Lune” (the port of the moon), a reference to the crescent-moon shaped bend on the Garonne where this city of 250,000 is situated. Within the last twenty years, this city, which was a small Celtic settlement named Burdigala before it was conquered by the Romans in 107 B.C. (they were the ones who first planted the region’s now world-renowned vineyards, too), has undergone a remarkable urban transformation that’s made it one of the most alluring

The vineyards of Bordeaux

18 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2018

cities in Europe, and this has happened without it losing its essential identity as a busy port and the capital of the world’s wine trade to gentrification.

To put this evolution in context, you need some history. Consider the words of the writer Victor Hugo who most aptly described the personality of the city during the 19th century, “Bordeaux is a curious city, original and perhaps unique. Take Versailles and mix it with Antwerp, and you have Bordeaux.”

Hugo was referring to the contrast between the magnificent 18th century architecture in the heart of the city and the commercial traffic of its adjacent port district on wharves built out on to the muddy banks of the Garonne.

Today, the city’s working port has moved down-river from the historic centre, and after the completion of a fifteen-year project that began in the mid1990s to remove the shrouds of black soot that hid the beauty of the city’s elegant limestone architecture, including the spectacular Place de la Bourse (the former stock exchange designed by Louis XV’s architect Ange-Jacques Gabriel) and several kilometres of elegant riverside façades, the centre of Bordeaux was designated a World Heritage site by UNESCO in 2007. A sleek new tramway system with dark green cars and grass planted medians now glides through the city and makes it very easy to get around (you definitely do not want or need a car during a visit to Bordeaux), and several major new museums have boosted the city’s already considerable appeal.

Miroir d’eau ® Steve Le Clech Photos; Vignobles ® Vincent Bengold.

T

he best destination for a long weekend out of Paris this autumn may surprise you. It’s Bordeaux, the stunningly beautiful city on the Garonne river in southwestern France.

Miroir d’Eau

WHAT TO SEE Beyond the beauty of the city itself, the big new attraction in Bordeaux is the recently opened 100 million-euro Cité du Vin, a multi-media centre devoted to the history of wine, both in the Bordelais region and in the rest of the world, which opened in a striking horn-shaped ten-story metal-andglass structure on the banks of the Garonne in 2016.

Designed by architects Anouk Legendre and Nicolas Desmazières, the Cité du Vin includes a permanent exhibition area of twenty themed modules that incorporate new audio-visual creations around various wine themes, three tasting laboratories that include specially designed multi-sensory spaces for a total immersion in wine, a viewing gallery, a dock from which to embark on visits to the wine chateaux up and down the river, a special exhibition centre, a wine bar and snack bar with an outdoor patio, and an excellent panoramic restaurant on the 7th floor where a superb variety of wines by-the-glass are offered.

“La Cité du Vin is transformational for Bordeaux,” says Sylvie Cazes, president of the museum and the doyenne of one of the most famous wine-making families in the Bordelais (her company the Domaine Jean-Michel Cazes, owns a variety of the most prestigious vineyards in the Bordelais, including Château Lynch-Bages and Château Les Ormes de Pez).

“The project originated in 2008 when Alain Juppé [France’s former prime minister] was mayor. He recognised that wine tourism was vitally important for Bordeaux both for economic reasons and also as an affirmation of the city’s viniferous identity,” Ms Cazes explains. “The guiding idea for the museum was the decision that the content of the museum would be international, or treat the wines of the world and not just the Bordelais or other regions of France. The point of the museum is to present the complexity of wine in an appealingly simple way.”

Just across the street from the Cité du Vin, Les Halles Bacalan is Bordeaux’s newest food market and delicious place to shop for epicurean souvenirs like foie gras or maybe take a time out with some freshly shucked oysters and a glass of white wine, a Graves from the Bordelais, bien sûr.

Anaka La Cité du Vin XTU architects; Garopapilles, Tanguy Laviale © Christophe Goussard; Illustration iStcok 2018 © Plateresca

A few tramway stops from the Cité du Vin and the Les Halles Bacalan, the CAPC,

Cité du Vin Bordeaux’s museum of contemporary art, was created forty years ago in a handsome stone warehouse that formerly housed foodstuffs imported from France’s colonies. Renovated by architects Denis Valod and Jean Pistre, the museum hosts a regular series of temporary shows in addition to having an excellent permanent collection that includes works by everyone from Keith Haring to Georges Rousse. Note that the interior fixtures and furniture of the museum were designed by the late interior designer Andrée Putman, with the idea that they should become part of the museum’s permanent collection as well.

The greatest pleasure of a weekend in Bordeaux is strolling its streets and admiring its magnificent 18th century architecture, including the Place de la Bourse on the banks of the Garonne, and the nearby Opera House, but the other museum that shouldn’t be missed is the Musée d’Aquitaine, which recounts the history of both Bordeaux and the surrounding Aquitaine region in one of the largest French history museums outside of Paris. Of particular interest here are the exhibits devoted to prehistoric life in the region, Bordeaux under the Romans, and “Bordeaux Atlantic Trade and Slavery,” which explains the city’s role as France’s principal colonial port during the 18th century.

The Bordeaux City Pass sold by the Bordeaux Tourism and Conventions Bureaux includes access to all of these museums, along with unlimited use of the city’s transit system and a city tour. The pass, an excellent buy and a huge convenience during a visit to Bordeaux, is available in 24, 48 and 72-hour versions, and can be purchased online at www.bordeaux-tourisme.co.uk or at one of their three offices in the city (addresses online).

walls of the beautiful landmarked salon of an old townhouse with elegant crown moulding and oak parquet floors. Baillin previously cooked with AnneSophie Pic in Valence, and this background is apparent in a cooking style that is elegant and imaginative but technically precise. He changes his menu often but his love of seasonal produce comes through in dishes like sautéed foie gras with roasted beetroot, a starter, and seared scallops with baby cep mushrooms.

Garopapilles

WHERE TO EAT Along with its many other charms, Bordeaux has also recently emerged as one of the best and most innovative restaurant cities in France. This is because young chefs like Félix Clerc of the excellent bistro and bar Symbiose have been attracted to the city by its beauty, quality of life and affordability compared to other major French cities. “Bordeaux is a wonderful city for a chef, because the local produce is superb and the Bordelais are sophisticated and adventurous at the table,” says Clerc, who opened this very popular table with three friends in a former shop with exposed stone walls on the Quai des Chartons two years ago. Clerc’s menus evolve constantly, but dishes like ceviche of sea bream marinated with fermented pineapple and garnished with lovage, celery, lemon and parsley ice-cream and barbecued octopus with pickled Mirabelle plums, nasturtium-leaf emulsion, greenpea ice cream and butter beans show off his inventive style.

For a similarly excellent meal in a dressier setting, chef Rudy Baillin’s restaurant Côté Rue has an art-gallery-like setting with modern paintings on the white

Garopapilles, the most talked about restaurant in Bordeaux right now, should be booked as far in advance as possible. This charming one Michelin star table occupies the premises of a former toy store, and includes an excellent wine shop just inside the front door. Chef Tanguy Laviale studied at the prestigious Ecole Ferrandi in Paris and then trained at Ledoyen, Lasserre and the Carre des Feuillants before moving to Bordeaux. “It’s a great time to be a chef in Bordeaux, because the city’s restaurant scene is thriving,” says Laviale, who also did a stint as the chef and oenologist at the Château Haut Bailly, a Grand Cru Classé vineyard in nearby Pessac-Léognan before opening his restaurant in 2014. “I find the relationship between food and wine fascinating, and it’s a constant source of inspiration to me,” says the chef.

Laviale’s menus change constantly, because his cooking privileges the freshest seasonal produce, but elegant and ingeniously composed dishes like roast squab with cep mushrooms and cockles and chocolate ganache with a peanut biscuit, banana cream and banana ice-cream show off the chef’s lyrical culinary imagination and technical prowess in the kitchen.

For lighter eating, a good option is one of the many excellent wine bars that have been opening in the city recently. One of the best is Le Flacon, which pours a great selection of wines by the glass and also serves up an imaginative small-plates menu that runs to dishes like Réunion-style steamedpork-and-citrus dumplings and miniature veal-shank burgers. w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 19

work of celebrated Paris interior designer Jacques Garcia, who chose a Napoleon III theme that includes rich jewel-tone colours, fabriccovered walls and brass lighting fixtures.

One of the best features of this property is Les Bains de Léa, its superb Nuxe spa on the 5th floor. This complex includes an indoor pool, sauna, hammam and treatment cabins where a variety of massages and beauty regimes are offered. The spa also has an outdoor jacuzzi open in good weather where you can have a good soak while enjoying a spectacular view of the Grand Théâtre across the street. The hotel also has two restaurants, Au Pressoir d’Argent, a gastronomic table, and Le Bordeaux, a brasserie serving simpler food. Service is flawless at this prestigious and very comfortable property.

Mama Shelter

WHERE TO STAY Both in response to the city’s tourist boom and its popularity as a business and meeting venue VINEXPO, the world’s most prestigious wine and spirits exhibition was founded here in 1981 and has been held here every other year since then, Bordeaux has become an excellent hotel town with addresses of charm and distinction for all budgets.

For an experience of sumptuous luxury in an historic setting, nothing beats the Intercontinental – Le Grand Hotel, which is located in the heart of the city just across the street from the Grand Theatre de Bordeaux, both buildings were created by the architect Victor Louis in 1776. The lush décor of the 130 rooms at this historic hotel is the

For anyone who prefers a smaller moderately priced hotel, the Hotel de Tourny also has a very convenient centre-city location and a lot of charm. This twelve-room boutique property occupies two 18th century townhouses that have been joined together and given a stylish contemporary décor that contrasts with historical architectural elements. Service is charming, too.

Another option is the very good value 97-room Mama Shelter, a hip French hotel chain with a great visual sense of humour in the interior décors by Philippe Starck at all of its properties. The Bordeaux hotel occupies a former modernist office building known locally as the Gas Tower, and the rooms are very spacious and comfortable, with tongue-in-cheek décors of children’s masks used as light fixtures and graffiti and quotes painted on the walls in public spaces. Overall, the atmosphere here is young and fun-loving, which reflects the client, although the lobby bar and restaurant with a menu by Guy Savoy is as popular with the locals as it is with hotel guests. Friendly staff and a very handy location, too.

ADDRESS

Les Halles Bacalan 149 Quai de Bacalan, Bordeaux Open daily except for Mondays.

05 56 80 63 65 https://biltoki.com/hallesbacalan/ CAPC de Bordeaux 7 rue Ferrere, Bordeaux, 05 56 00 81 50 www.capc-bordeaux.fr Musée d’Aquitaine 20 Cours Pasteur, Bordeaux 05 56 01 51 00 www.musee-aquitaine-bordeaux.com Symbiose 4 Quai des Chartrons, Bordeaux 05 56 23 67 15 www.facebook.com/symbiosebordeaux Côté Rue 14 rue Paul Louis Lande, Bordeaux 05 56 49 06 49 www.cote-rue-bordeaux.fr

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Garopapilles 62 rue de l’Abbé de l’Epée, Bordeaux 09 72 45 55 36 www.garopapilles.com Le Flacon 9 Place du Maucaillou, Bordeaux 09 81 86 43 43 www.facebook.com/leflaconbordeaux InterContinental Bordeaux – Le Grand Hôtel 2-5 Place de la Comédie, Bordeaux 05 57 30 44 44 www.intercontinental.com/Bordeaux Hotel de Tourny 16 rue Huguerie, Bordeaux 05 56 81 56 73 www.hoteldetourny.com Mama Shelter Bordeaux 19 rue Poquelin Molière, Bordeaux, 05 57 30 45 45 www.mamashelter.com

Mama Shelter © Francis Amiand; Illustration iStcok 2018 © Plateresca

La Cité du Vin 134 Quai de Bacalan, Bordeaux 05 56 16 20 20 www.laciteduvin.com

The Guide

SHOPPING

By Sandra Iskander

Accessories | For Him | New Addresses | Beauty Buys | Department Stores Sia wears a Paule Ka dress and bag, Sisley coat, Lemon Jelly boots, and Dim pantyhose

Photo © Alex Fadel

Turn to page 30 for more of our Fashion Squared photo shoot

22 W H ER E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2018

SHOPPING

Accessories

Sneakers Only Wearing sneakers up or down, morning and night, is a trend that is continuing with no complaints. Embracing the trend, and highlighting it, is Printemps’s space dedicated to sneakers, updated every season with the best models from all our favourite brands including Superga. And this season, Superga’s autumn/ winter 2018/2019 collection offers ladies quite the option when it comes to dressing their feet in the comfortable yet very fashionable accessory. Metallics, prints, even coloured tweed dress the sneakers, making sure there is a shoe for every occasion. - S.I. Printemps 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 50 00

Lanvin’s It Bag Adding a pop of colour to your autumn wardrobe could not be any easier thanks to the latest accessories collection from French fashion house Lanvin. The chic house has put subtlety aside and embraced bold colours with red, blue, yellow and green dressing its latest line of bags. The Pixel-It by Lanvin bag is both versatile and statement-making, letting fashionloving ladies stand out in a crowd while letting them choose how to hold the bag, as a clutch, crossbody or simply on the shoulder. And with such versatility, the Pixel-It by Lanvin bag easily works itself into morning to night looks with ease. - S.I. Lanvin Boutique 22 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 08 99 27 35 05 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 23

SHOPPING For Him

A New Boss in Town Gentlemen, if you are long Hugo Boss fans, and wearers of the leading men’s fashion house, you will be happy to discover the recently opened Hugo boutique in the heart of the trendsetting neighbourhood of Le Marais in the French capital.

Opening its doors in July, the boutique has unveiled the house’s autumn/winter 2018/2019 collection that is in tune with what has made the brand so popular. Tailored suits, elegant cuts and everything from polo shirts to sneakers are available in the two-storey boutique that boasts touchscreens that play the house’s fashion shows and collections, allowing shoppers to browse the collections and put together their own looks. The boutique is open Monday to Sunday and also includes a women’s department. - S.I. Hugo Boutique 118 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01 44 08 02 75

The intricate Excalibur Knights of the Round Table III timepiece brought out by Roger Dubuis reflects the legend of King Arthur’s sword Excalibur and was inspired by the mythical island of Avalon, where the sword may have been forged. On the dial the 12 knights, engraved by hand in rose gold, point their swords toward the centre of the dial (the round table inspired by Avalon), which is rendered in a hand-carved block of solid blue enamel. This beautiful composition, a work of art in and of itself, is housed inside a 45mm diameter case in 18-carat rose gold. Each dial requires 45 hours to be completed and the house’s workshops can only produce two pieces of this intricate watch each month. This exceptional timepiece, which is stamped with the Geneva Hallmark, is brought out in a limited edition of only 28 pieces. - P.V. Available at Galeries Lafayette 40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 80 65 17 24 W H E R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2018

Roger Dubuis © Diode SA - Denis Hayoun

Legends in Time

SHOPPING

New Addresses

Chic Cutlery It is one of the world’s leading houses in silverware, he is arguably the most famous fashion designer in the word and now Christofle and Karl Lagerfeld have come together to bring us an updated version of the Mood cutlery set, Karl style. The limited edition set sees Karl Lagerfeld bring a very graphic design to the egg-shaped set that exclusively holds the silver cutlery with the designer’s silhouette logo. Available in polished steel with a mirror effect and in black, the set is both an objet d’art and a very chic accessory to dress any dining table. - S.I. Christofle Boutique 221 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 40 13 10 43

Luxe Refunds The recent opening of the Global Blue Lounge on the very chic Rue Cambon has spelled the end of waiting in a queue at the airport to get your VAT/GST refund in cash or waiting weeks to get the money deposited into your bank account. The chic address invites international shoppers to get their money back while still in the city, meaning more euros to spend in the fashion capital. The discreet lounge boasts three different spaces and a luxurious service where tourists can sit back with a glass of champagne or a much-needed coffee while the staff process their forms. The lounge also features several windows showcasing the collections offered by the fashion houses that work with Global Blue, giving visitors a glimpse into the items available in the houses’ respective boutiques. The Lounge is open from Monday to Saturday, from 10am to 7pm. - S.I. Global Blue Lounge 4 rue Cambon (1st) 26 W HER E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2018

WHERE PARIS PROMOTION

Fall 2018: New takes on the Whitney Bag

T

he Whitney, introduced this past summer, has become the newest iconic handbag from MICHAEL Michael Kors. Designed as a 24/7, work-to-weekend bag, the Whitney combines a sophisticated silhouette with on-the-go versatility.

The subtle but distinctive “M” shape on the front of the bag nods to the designer’s initial, a letter he’s been sketching since he was a child. The bag also features a sleek, distinctive push-lock fastening with pyramid stud detailing. Now, for the fall fashion season, Michael Kors introduces new luxe additions to the Whitney family.

A NEW SILHOUETTE

The Whitney was originally introduced in three polished shapes – the sleek shoulder bag, the winged satchel and the roomy tote bag. This season,

a new backpack silhouette will join the Whitney lineup.

…AND NEW STANDOUT DETAILS

The Quilted Whitney: It’s all about tactile polish

for the quilted Whitney, which comes in two glossy leather options – smooth and crinkled – and is finished with quilted stitching.

The Mixed-Media Whitney: Make a statement with the mixed-media Whitney, designed in a mix of suede and snake-embossed leather. The quilted stitching is outlined with geometric studs for added texture.

The Tri-Colour Whitney: 1-2-3 chic: this iteration features a tri-colour design for a graphic spin on the sophisticated style. It comes in a velvet and leather combination as well as a leather-only style.

The Whitney Bag launches in Michael Kors stores and online, from Fall 2018

38 W H E R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2018

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SHOPPING Beauty

ROYAL Beauty

By Sandra Iskander

Porcelain skin, rosy cheeks and a lot of glam, Emilia Clarke was a Marie Antoinette vision at the MET Gala 2018 with her Laura Mercier make-up. Get her royal look with our favourite beauty finds.

2 1

1 & 2 - Get the Marie Antoinette-inspired cheeks with Les Merveilleuses Ladurée’s three different blushes, the cream blush, the powder blush and the delicate rose petalshaped powder.

Available at Nocibé 3 - Highlight your look with Fenty Beauty’s Killawatt Foil Freestyle Highlighter Duo in Mimosa Sunrise/Sangria Sunset.

Available at Sephora

4

4 - Make your eyes pop with Huda’s new eyeshadow palette.

Available at Sephora

3

6 - Get Emilia’s scarlet pout with Laura Mercier’s Velour Extreme Matte Lipstick in Fatale.

Available at Le Bon Marché

5 28 W H E R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2018

6

7

7 - Give your skin a pearly glow with La Prairie’s White Caviar Illuminating Pearl Infusion serum.

La Prairie Boutique 199 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 42 21 18 72

Emilia Clarke © Jillian Dempsey MetBal 2018

5 - Make sure your foundation lasts by using Paul & Joe’s Moisturising Foundation Primer.

Available at Sephora

SHOPPING

Beauty

Louboutin Eyes He is known for dressing our feet with his red-soled shoes and now he is dressing our eyelids with his line of liquid eyeshadows.

Made up of two collections, the nudes and the metallics, the creamy shades are named after his muses and his favourite gemstones. Packaged in a luxurious bottle inspired by Louboutin’s signature stiletto heel, each eyeshadow is draped in gold, which easily gives any glam room an extra touch of glamour. - S.I. Christian Louboutin Beauty Boutique 8 Galerie Véro Dodat (1st), 01 53 00 20 59

More Shadows for Your Peepers...

Chanel’s cream eyeshadow in Ultra Flesh for a luminous peachy look.

Chanel Boutique 40 rue des Francs Bourgeois (3rd), 01 49 96 46 00

Dior’s Eye Palette in Warm Neutrals to help you create a golden smoky eye.

Dior Beauté Boutique 326 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 40 20 99 56

Paul & Joe’s yellow and gold eyeshadow for a sunny touch to your autumn make-up look.

Available at Sephora 70 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 53 93 22 50

And make sure your powder eyeshadow lasts the distance all day by using Chanel’s eyeshadow base for a smoother and longer lasting application. - S.I.

w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 29

SHOPPING Fashion

Fashion Squared Photographer: Alex Fadel Art Direction & Fashion Editor: Sandra Iskander Stylist: Mathilde Fouquet Make-Up Artist & Hair Stylist: Xavier Curt of Backstage Agency Model: Sia from UP Models

30 W H E R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2018

Dior skirt, hoodie and boots

w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 31

Mango dress Kalya H coat Cesare Paciotti boots Dim pantyhose Laulhère beret

32 W H E R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2018

Louis Vuitton dress, boots, bag and bracelets Michel Herbelin watch

w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 33

Liu Jo dress, jacket and bag Minelli boots Lotus bracelet

34 W HER E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2018

Eskandar poncho dress CĂŠsaire bag Knitss boots Acaba gloves La Prestic Ouiston cap

w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 35

Jitrois pants and jacket Victoria/Tomas shirt Cesare Paciotti boots Thomas Sabo necklace

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Caroll pants and jacket Afterhomework t-shirt Chie Mihara shoes Maty bracelet, necklace and rings w w w.p a r i s m a p. fr 37

Address Book

SHOPPING

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris ACCESSORIES

Acaba - 41 rue des Petits Champs (1st),

01.71.72.96.45. M° Pyramides Laulhère - 14-16 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), in the courtyard, 01.42.65.90.59. M° Madeleine Leica Store - 105-109 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01. 77.72.20.70. M° Saint-Philippe du Roule Montblanc - 152 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.44.20.07.70. M° George V Swarovski - 32 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.65.28.10. M° Madeleine

BEAUTY SPAS & PRODUCTS

Atelier Cologne - 8 rue Saint-Florentin (1st), 01.42.60.00.31. M° Concorde Ban Thai Spa - 25 ave Raymond Poincare (16th), 01.43.59.39.39. M° Trocadéro Cercle Delacre - 17 ave George V (8th), 01.40.70.99.70. M° George V Elysées Shopping - 12 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.15.62. M° George V Guerlain - 68 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.45.62.52.57. M° George V Lancôme - 29 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.65.30.74. M° Madeleine L’Artisan Parfumeur - 167 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.43.27.47.87. M° Saint-Germain-des-Près Les Comptoirs de Durance - 24 rue Vignon (9th), 01.47.42.04.10. M° Madeleine L’Occitane - 55 rue Saint-Louis en L’Ile (4th), 01.40.46.81.71. M° Pont Marie Marionnaud Paris - 104 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.96.50.00. M° George V Maison Arabian Oud - 63 ave des ChampsElysées (8th), 01.43.59.59.59. M° Franklin D. Roosvelt Sephora - 70-72 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.93.22.50. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Serge Lutens - 142 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.49.27.09.09. M° Palais Royal

BOOKS & MUSIC

FNAC - Bercy Village - 49/53 Cour

Saint-Emilion (12th), M° Cour Saint-Emilion Paul Beuscher - 27 blvd Beaumarchais (4th), 01.44.54.36 00. M° Bastille Pianos Pleyel - 93-95 ave Daumesnil (12th), 01.45.61.53.00. M° Gare de Lyon Shakespeare & Company - 37 rue de la Bûcherie (5th), 01.43.25.40.93. Mº Saint-Michel W.H. Smith - 248 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.77.88.99. Mº Concorde

CHILDREN’S CLOTHING & TOYS Bonpoint - 6 rue de Tournon (6th), 01.40.51.98.20. M° Mabillon Jacadi - 17 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.42.65.84.98. M° Madeleine

GAS BIJOUX

| Jewellery & Watches

38 W H E R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2018

Joué Club - 3-5 blvd des Italiens (2nd),

01.53.45.41.41. M° Tuileries La Grande Récré - 126 rue La Boétie (8th), 01.42.25.42.42. M° Georges V Tikibou Toy Store - 33 blvd Edgar Quinet (14th), 01.43.20.98.79. M° Edgar Quinet

CLOTHING: MEN & WOMEN Akris - 49 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.20.47.49. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Beretta Gallery - 57 rue Pierre Charron (8th), 01.56.88.59.59. M° George V Boggi Milano - 38 blvd des Italiens (9th), 01.40.22.99.82. M° Opéra Carven - 34 rue Saint-Sulpice (6th), 09.60.45.47.04. M° Mabillon Cerruti 1881 - 51 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.53.30.18.81, M° Havre-Caumartin Chanel - 31 rue Cambon (1st), 01.44.50.66.00. M° Concorde Coach - 372 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.86.02.39. M° Tuileries De Fursac - 34 ave de l’Opéra (2nd), 01.53.43.05.00.M° Opéra Dior - 30 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.40.73.73.73. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Eden Park - 11-13 rue Lobineau (6th), 01.43.25.02.25. M° Mabillon Emile Lafaurie - 56/58 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.42.74.50.05. M° Saint-Paul Gant - 41 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.86.09.65. M° Madeleine Gresley Paris - 24 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01.42.33.35.81. M° Pyramides Hervé Léger - 24 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.60.02.00. M° Madeleine Iris Cantabri - 15 rue des Blancs Manteaux (4th), 01.70.23.93.23. M° Hôtel de Ville Karl Lagerfeld - 194 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.42.22.74.99. M° Rue du Bac Lacoste - 37 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.61.58.20. M° Opéra Lanvin- 22 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.71.31.73. M° Concorde Le Mont Saint Michel - 96 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.42.74.86.07. M° Filles du Calvaire Liu Jo - 182 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.53.71.15.40. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés Marella - 18 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.53.30.73.13. M° Madeleine Montagut - 15 place du marché Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.33.35.08. M° Pyramides Ports 1961 - 251 bis rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.47.03.35.41. M° Madeleine Prada - 6 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.58.18.63.30. M° Madeleine Saint Laurent - 53 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.83.84.53. M° Franklin Roosevelt Thomas Pink - 19 rue François 1er (8th), 01.47.23.72.00. M° Franklin Roosevelt

EDWARD GREEN

| Shoes

Tommy Hilfiger - 43 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.60.70.02. M° Madeleine Yumi Katsura France - 26 rue Cambon (1st), 01.47.03.40.97. M° Concorde Yohji Yamamoto - 4 rue Cambon Paris (1st), 01.40.20.00.71. M° Concorde Yves Salomon - 245 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.47.03.34.90. M° Tuileries

DEPARTMENT STORES & SHOPPING CENTRES

Beaugrenelle - 12 rue Linois (15th), 01.53.95.24.00. M° Charles Michels

BHV Marais - 55 rue de Rivoli (4th), 09.77.40.14.00. M° Hôtel de Ville

Le Bon Marché - 24 rue de Sèvres (7th),

01.44.39.80.00. M° Sèvres-Babylone Galeries Lafayette - 40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.34.56. M° Chaussée d’Antin-La Fayette Montparnasse Rive Gauche - 22 rue du Départ (15th). M° Montparnasse - Bienvenüe One Nation Paris - 1 ave du Président Kennedy, 78340 Les Clayes sous Bois, 01.72.87.90.11 Printemps Haussmann - 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.50.00. M° Havre-Caumartin La Vallée Village - 3 cours de la Garonne, 01.60.42.35.00. RER A4 to Val d’Europe (about 35min)

EYE WEAR

GrandOptical - 138 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.40.76.00.13. M° George V

JLC Opticien - 68 rue du Bac (8th), 01.45.48.58.10. M° Rue du Bac

Lafont Opticien - 17 blvd Raspail (7th), 01.45.48.24.23. M° Rue du Bac

FABRICS: COUTURE

Janssens & Janssens - 3 rue d’Anjou (8th), 01.42.65.04.00. M° Concorde

HOME

Baccarat - 79 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.65.36.26. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Bodum - 38 ave de L’Opéra (2nd), 01.42.33.01.68. M° Opéra

Bernardaud - 11 rue Royale (8th), 01.47.42.82.66. M° Madeleine

Christofle - 9 rue Royale (8th), 01.55.27.99.13. M° Concorde

Jean Perzel - 3 rue de la Cité Universitaire (14th), 01.45.88.77.24. RER B: Cité Universitaire

Lalique - 11 rue Royale (8th),

01.53.05.12.12. M° Madeleine Roche Bobois - 207-213 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.49.54.01.70. M° Rue du Bac Silvera - 56-58 ave Kléber (16th), 01.53.65.78.78. M° Kléber Zwilling - 12 blvd de la Madeleine (9th), 01.42.68.88.00. M° Madeleine

SHOPPING

Address Book

JEWELLERY & WATCHES A. Lange & Söhne - 19 rue de la Paix (9 ), th

01.42.65.68.71. M° Opéra

Angela Caputi Giuggiu - 15 Galerie

Véro-Dodat (1st), 01.40.39.01.51. M° Louvre-Rivoli Arije - 3 rue de Castiglione (1st), 01.42.60.37.77. M° Tuileries Audemars Piguet - 15 rue Royale (8th), 01.40.20.45.45. M° Concorde Boucheron - 26 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.61.58.16. M° Opéra Bucherer - 12 blvd des Capucines (9th), 01.70.99.18.88. M° Opéra Bulgari - 25 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.00.50. M° Pyramides Burma - 346 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.96.08.42. M° Tuileries

By Marie - 8 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.88.00. M° Alma- Marceau Cartier - 23 place Vendôme (1st), 01.44.53.32.20. M° Opéra Césarée -11 rue du Dragon (6th), 01.45.48.86.86. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés Chanel Jewellery -18 place Vendôme (1st), 01.40.98.55.55. M° Opéra Chronopassion - 271 rue Saint-Honoré (1rst), 01.42.60.50.72. M° Concorde Chopard - 1 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.20.10. M° Opéra Damiani - 19 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.96.95.51. M° Opéra de Grisogono - 358 bis rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.44.55.04.40. M° Concorde Dinh Van - 16 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.74.49. M° Opéra DoDo by Pomellato - 350 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.31.55. M° Tuileries Dubail - 71-73 ave des Champs- Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.62.45. M° George V Elysées Horlogerie - 14 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.62.45. M° George V Elysées Joaillerie - 17 rue de Berri (8th), 01.42.89.89.88. M° George V Garel - 17 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.40.04. M° Opéra Garland - 13 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.17.95. M° Opéra Gas Bijoux - 26-28 Rue Danielle Casanova (2nd), 01.42.97.58.80. M° Quatre Septembre Gorky - 18 rue Duphot (1st) , 01.42.60.22.76. M° Concorde Gringoire Joallier - 32 ave Matignon (8th), 01.77.37.05.05. M° Miromesnil Gucci Watches - Printemps Haussmann (1st floor), 64 bd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.78.74. M° Havre-Caumartin Harry Winston - 29 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.20.03.09. M° Alma-Marceau

GUERLAIN

Hublot - 271 rue Saint-Honoré (1st) , 01.47.03.39.99. M° Concorde F.P. Journe - 63 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.68.08.00, M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Mellerio dits Meller - 9 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.57.53. M° Opéra Omega - 362/364 rue Saint-Honoré (2nd), 01.55.35.03.60. M° Concorde Panerai - 5 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.51.50.50. M° Concorde Parmigiani - 125-126 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.13.93.93. M° Palais-Royal Pasquale Bruni - Printemps Haussmann (1st floor), 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.50.00. M° Havre-Caumartin Patek Philippe - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.44.17.77. M° Tuileries Piaget - 7 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.58.62.37.00. M° Opéra Redline Showroom - 161 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.44.64.92.24. M° Palais-Royal-Musée du Louvre Richard Mille - 17 ave Matignon (8th), 01.40.15.10.00. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Rolex - 9 place Vendôme (1st), 01.40.20.21.00. M° Concorde Tasaki - At the Ritz Paris, 15 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.36.33.00. M° Tuileries Tiffany&Co. - 6 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.40.20.20.20. M° Opéra Tissot Boutique - 76 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.42.56.18.53. M° George V Van Cleef & Arpels - 22 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.04.11.11. M° Opéra Vhernier - 63 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.93.15. M° Miromesnil Wempe - 16 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.21.77. M° Concorde

LINGERIE Agent Provocateur - 12 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.61.79.54. M° Madeleine

Cadolle - 4 rue Cambon (1st) ,

01.42.60.94.22. M° Madeleine Chantal Thomass - 211 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.40.56. M° Tuileries La Perla - 20 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.43.12.33.50. M° Concorde

LUGGAGE AND BAGS

Aïzea - 62 Galerie Vivienne (2nd), 09.86.58.69.41. M° Bourse

Cesaire - 6 rue Saint-Florentin (1st),

01.42.97.43.43. M° Concorde/Madeleine Coach - 372-374 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.86.02.39. M° Madeleine Delvaux - 151-154 Galerie de Valois (1st), 09.67.19.93.28. M° Palais Royal

| Beauty Spas & Products

Dot-Drops - 8 rue des Canettes (6th), 01.43.54.62.15. M° Mabillon

Goyard - 233 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.57.04. M° Tuileries

Hermès - 24 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.47.17. M° Concorde

Kate Lee - 16 rue des Gravilliers (3rd),

01.48.04.57.72. M° Arts et Métiers Lancel - 127 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.56.89.15.70. M° George V Longchamp - 404 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.43.16.00.16. M° Concorde Louis Quatorze - 106 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.42.72.94.43. M° Filles du Calvaire Louis Vuitton - 101 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.53.57.52.00. M° George V Moynat- 348 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.47.03.83.90. M° Tuileries Mulberry - 275 rue Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.60.00.64. M° Concorde Pinel & Pinel - 22 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.58.39. M° Madeleine Prada - 10 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.23.99.40. M° Alma Marceau

MULTI-BRAND BOUTIQUES Citadium - 56 rue de Caumartin (9th), 01.55.31.74.00. M° Havre-Caumartin L’Eclaireur - 26 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.12.32. M° George V Merci - 111 blvd Beaumarchais (3rd), 01.42.77.00.33. M° Saint Sébastien-Froissard

SHOES Altan Bottier - 11 rue Lincoln (8th), 01.45.63.77.59. M° George V

Aubercy – 34 rue Vivienne (2nd),

01.42.33.93.61. M° Grands Boulevards

Berluti - 26 rue Marbeuf (8th),

01.53.93.97.97. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Camper - 8 place de l´Opera (9th),

01.42.66.52.43. M° Opéra

Christian Louboutin - 68 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.68.37.65. M° Madeleine Crockett & Jones – 14 rue Chauveau-Lagarde (8th), 01.44.94.01.74. M° Madeleine Edward Green – 199 bis blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.53.63.47.50. M° Rue du Bac J.M. Weston – 55 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.45.62.26.47 . M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Paraboot - 9 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.45.49.24.26. M° Saint-Sulpice Repetto - 22 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.44.71.83.12. M° Opéra Robert Clergerie - 5 rue du Cherche-Midi (6th), 01.45.48.75.47. M° Rennes Tod’s - 21 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.16.16. M° Concorde

LOUIS QUATORZE

| Luggage and Bags w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 39

LUXURY MAP

Faubourg Saint-Honoré

AB OÉT IE

Philippine Janssens •

• Christie’s

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SAINT-AUGUSTIN

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RUE SAI NT- HON ORÉ

T H U R IN

RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HO

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• Marella

• Swarovski

• Zwilling E SÈZE

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F Le auré Pa ge Ch an el

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RUE D

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RUE SAI NT- HON ORÉ

•Anne Fontaine

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RUE DU MONT-THABOR

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NORÉ

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Église de la Madeleine

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Hedgren • •Tom FordRUE CAMBON • • • • •Jimmy Choo Hervé Léger Tommy • Coach Hilfiger Alexander McQueen • • Emporio Armani Hackett • • Marc Jacobs Lacoste • • David Morris • • Omega Omega• UL

RUE SAI NT- HON ORÉ

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APUC

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Vendôme

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Place

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• Burma Ciro pour

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INES

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40 W H E R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2 018

R U E CA ST

RUE TRONCHET

RD

Atelier Cologne Hublot • Chronopassion • Fendi •

• Roberto Cavalli Messika • Morabito • Chloé • Ports 1961• DsQuared2 • Tumi • Arije J.M. Weston • • Yves Salomon•

Wempe Ralph •Lancaster Lauren •Kate spade Kenzo • •Max Mara

VA

16 rue Royale - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 60 21 77 www.wempe.fr

•

MADELEINE

• •• • Marina • Rinaldi •

ULE

RUE DE RIVOLI

• Césaire

•

The renowned German watchmaker has been satisfying customers for over 135 years. Featuring a fine selection of stylish jewellery, luxury watches and chronometers.

AN

UÉP

RUE SAINT-FL ORENTIN

Laulhère

Prada Pinko Chanel Gucci Dior

BO

Valentino •

Jardin des Tuileries

Yohji Yamamoto

WEMPE

•

CONCORDE

•

•

L ’A R C

••

RUE ROYALE

• Royal Iro Quartz Furla• Michael Kors • Mulberry •

RUE DE

Oliver Grant

•

SHOP STOP

Ch

3 rue d’Anjou - Paris 8th (Corner 46 Fbg Saint-Honoré) Tel: +33 (0)1 42 65 04 00 www.janssensparis.com

RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS

Lanvin La Perla Vuarnet

•• •

Lanvin

In the very heart of the Faubourg St-Honoré discover more than 3,000 different clothing fabrics, all extraordinary, and many used by haute couture designers. Owner Françoise Janssens can also recommend one of 40 local seamstresses.

SSM

ROQ

RUE DE SURÈNE

AVE NU E GA BR IEL

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• •

Place de la Concorde

t ue • Pig n • rs rgo ma eu d de H au • Au ard ue • rn Be Laliq e • fl to ris

JANSSENS & JANSSENS

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SHOP STOP

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• Sotheby’s G TOR • Chopard D ’A S RUE •Sonia Rykiel • Poiray Alberta Ferretti• • Christian Louboutin Apostrophe • • Pomellato • Opera Gallery Bui • Barbara RUE D’AGU ESSEA U • Capel •Bally •55 Croisette •Burberry •Brunello Cucinelli Roger Vivier • • Hogan U ’A N J O Valentino • • Ermenegildo Zegna RUE D • Heurgon • RUE D’ANJOU Janssens Mettez Djula • Jitrois & Janssens Les Porsche Design • • Saint Laurent Crockett Dandys • • Chanel • Boucheron & Jones • Tod’s • • Givenchy SQUIER • RUE PA Cartier • Alessi Burberry • • Hermès RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS ADE Frette • Moreau •

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• Miu-Miu • RUE D Caron ES

• Loriblu

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Élysée Palace RUE DE L’ÉLYSÉE

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79 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré - Paris 8th Tel: +33(0)1 42 65 36 26 www.baccarat.fr

RU

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ED

•

AVENUE DE MARIGNY

É

Gringoire Joaillier

•

Pierre Cardin

UE

SS

RU

BACCARAT Founded in 1764, Baccarat is the oldest and most famous crystal maker in the world. For over 250 years, Baccarat has been a symbol of excellence in French savoir-faire. Designed by Gilles & Boissier, Baccarat’s Parisian flagship is located in the centre of the luxury shopping neighbourhood and is inspired by a French mansion and a Parisian apartment.

EN

CA

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Rimowa• Mugler • RUE • Azzaro • DU C IRQU Vhernier E • F.P. Journe

Daniel Levy

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AB

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RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONORÉ

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•Richard Mille Steiger Cifonelli MATIGNON • • AVE NUE MATIGNON Puiforcat • Baccarat • AV

PER

NUE

RU

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MIROMESNIL

• Sothys

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Galeries •Bartoux

RU

RUE DU FBG SAINT-HONORÉ

FRANKLIN D. ROOSEVELT

ES

SHOP STOP

Bucherer

• Tag Heuer • Samsonite • Bonbon Watch

If you are looking for a wide selection of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery, you only need to keep one name in mind.

For more than 135 years, the name “WEMPE” has stood for the utmost expertise in the art of making jewellery and timepieces. We offer a unique selection of valuable treasures at 27 Wempe showrooms world-wide.

We are especially proud because for more than a century we have been privileged to contribute to the grand feelings that our customers express when they purchase jewellery or timepieces. Our pieces of jewellery uphold international standards and are born in our own atelier. This is true for unusual one-of-a-kind items as well as for our diverse assortment of classic pieces with brilliant-cut diamonds. And a century-old friendship links us with the world’s foremost watch manufactories. You will find WEMPE showrooms at the loveliest locations in great European metropolises, New York City and in Beijing. Each shop also offers service or advice whenever you require it, so you can be certain that we will always be available to meet your individual needs. We cordially invite you to discover an abundance of interesting new items and exclusive special models at one of Europe’s leading jewellers. We look forward to your visit!

Paris, 16, rue Royale, T +33.1.42 60 21 77 HAMBURG LONDON PARIS MADRID VIENNA NEW YORK BEIJING WWW.WEMPE.COM We accept all credit cards.

LUXURY MAP

Rue Saint-Honoré / Palais Royal

la Concorde

RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS

•

Lanvin Carita • Berluti • Panerai Christofle

•

CONCORDE

• RUE ROYALE

•

RUE SAINT-FLORENTIN

Gucci Chanel • • Dior RUE ROYALE

•

MADELEINE

• Wempe • Lancaster • Kate spade • Tory Burch • Max Mara

•

Le Jacquard

• Français

LEI NE

UL

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INES

APUC

DES C

RUE

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RUE DANIELLE CASANOVA

Opéra Garnier

OPÉRA Kusmi Tea

• AV

EN

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ivk

a

L’O

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Co

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Bonpoint IRO

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RUE DU LOUVR E

Hartford

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Y’s Yohji Yamamoto

•

• •

Gerard Darel Kenzo Les petites

Maje

OU

•

Place des Victoires

PS

’AB

Galerie Véro-Dodat

Christian Louboutin

0039 Italy

ED

by Terry Xavier Lust

Galerie Vivienne

•

RUE CROI X DES PETI TS CHAM

RUE VIVIENNE

•

Musée du Louvre

• • •

• De Fursac

•

Palais Royal

• • • • • • • •

rre Ha rto Delv rdy Se Mo aux rg lte e Ri Lu do Ma ck O tens iso we n n Ste Pa Fab s lla rmi re Mc gia Ca ni rtn ey

•

RUE DE RIVOLI

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42 W H E R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2 018

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Bibliothèque Nationale - Site Richelieu-Louvois

RUE DE LA FEUILLADE

15 Galerie Véro-Dodat - Paris 1st (enter at 19 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau or 2 rue du Bouloi) Tel: +33 (0)1 40 39 01 51 / www.angelacaputi.com

’OP

RUE RICHELIEU

RUE RICHELIEU

RUE DE VALOIS Francesco Russo

Eric Philippe Angela Caputi Il Bisonte

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eli do t n

• Kam’s

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PALAIS ROYAL

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Galerie de Valois

ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ

•

Acaba •

Galerie de Montpensier

Italian jewellery designer Angela Caputi set up her workshop in Florence in 1975. Her unique high fashion costume jewellery, mixing various materials, colours and textures, is now available at her new boutique in Paris. This collection is extremely sophisticated and could be a special present for each woman.

CIN

Printemps du Louvre

Garel

RUE DES PETITS CHAMPS

•

PU

ONORÉ

ONORÉ

•

• RedLine

CA

Garland

RUE DE LA PA IX •

RUE DES PYRAMIDES

•Nodus PYRAMIDES •Tous •Shiatzy Chen RA •Aésop PÉ

FreyWille

SHOP STOP

ES

Vendôme

•Dodo Church’s• •Baldinini Paule Ka • •Moynat TUILERIES Jack Russell • Burma • •Stuart Weitzman Ami • • Balenciaga Missoni• • Akillis Kiehl’s• Place du Marché • Saint-Honoré Barbara Rihl •Christian Dior •M.A.C Chantal Thomass • Penhaligon’s • Peuterey • •Paraboot RUE SAINT-ROCH • Verbreuil The Kooples • •Cotélac Vivienne • Westwood

DD

Place

Goyard •

•Dubail

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•

RUE S A IN T -H

RUE DE RIVOLI

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RUE S A IN T -H

Carrousel du Louvre 99 rue de Rivoli – Paris 1st Tel : +33 (0)1 76 77 41 00 www.printemps.com

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Antiquités

RUE SAINT- HONOR É

SHOP STOP

Carrousel du Louvre

• Zwilling • Lipault

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OT P H • Gorky

Chanel CA MB ON RU E CA MB ON • Max&Moi • • RU E • Tom Ford Roberto Cavalli • • CA MB ON Jamin Hervé • Kiton Messika• • Maison Puech Léger Tommy • Coach • Abriza Morabito• Hilfiger • Alexander McQueen Chloé• • Brioni Ports • •Emporio Armani DsQuared2 • •Marc Jacobs Tumi• •David Morris Arije Bally • J.M. • • Weston Chopard RU E CA ST

62 Galerie Vivienne - Paris 2nd Tel: +33 (0)9 86 58 69 41 www.aizea-paris.com

Printemps is entering the Carrousel du Louvre with a 2,500 sqm new store entirely dedicated to luxury.

Discover this new area celebrating the famous French know-how in the heart of the Louvre Museum and showcasing the most prestigious accessories, beauty, watches and jewellery brands.

Open 7 days a week, even on Sundays.

•

Carel

•

Swarovski

Marella

Paris •RU E

PRINTEMPS DU LOUVRE

RUE TRONC HET

Église de la Madeleine

DE

• Césaire Hublot • Chronopassion • Djula • Fendi• Parakian

• Oliver Grant

VD

RUE DE RIVOLI

Jeu de Paume

Jardin des Tuileries

•Lanvin • La Perla • Laulhère

BL

AïZEA is a French contemporary leathergoods company from the Basque Country, which is destined for aesthetes who work and travel.

Precision and a sense of detail, premium quality and exceptional skins are the key words that describe the brand’s expertise. The AïZEA collection is declined in Taurillon, and in precious leathers as Python and Wild Alligator from USA.

Musée de l’Orangerie

RUE SAINT-HONORÉ

AïZEA

Michael Kors • Mulberry • Valentino

Burberry

•

•

Place de

RUE DU FBG SAINT-HONORÉ

SHOP STOP

Aïzea

LUXURY MAP Vendôme

Gare Saint-Lazare

SHOP STOP

TRINITÉ D’ESTIENNE D’ORVES

SAINT-LAZARE RUE SAINT-LAZARE

E

Passage du Havre

E D E LA

Printemps R U R U E JO U B ER Mode T

RUE

BOU

HUR

LEV • ARD HAU Lafayette SSM ANN Maison&Gourmet

INS

OY AUR

MAT

ARTI

• Max&Moi

Bucherer Tag Heuer Montblanc

•

•

•

BOULEVARD DES CAPUCINES

• • • IKKS

•Gant • •

Bally Hackett Omega

• Camper Boggi • •Lancel BOULEVARD DES ITALIENS •Maty

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Waskoll A. Lange • & Söhne • Marvella • • Repetto C E Poiray RU Corthay Y Garland Christofle • • • Harrison Cartier • OLNE Piaget • Diesel V • Yumi Katsura Hugo Boss • E • Bodum • IX • Lery R U Panerai Jimmy Choo IWC • PA Dinh Van • Alexander McQueen • LA •Fred Louis Vuitton • • UE DE• Breitling Emporio Armani Cartier R • Jaquet Droz Dubail Dior Bvlgari Anshindo • • Damiani Miki Graff Diamond’s • • • •Vacheron Constantin • • House •• Tasaki• • De Fursac •Charvet • Gas Bijoux • Omega Rolex Jaeger- • • • Boucheron RUE • LeCoultre DA Van Cleef NIE DsQuared2 • • Desigual • Fred •• Place Vendôme • & Arpels LLE CA Tumi • S A Kusmi Blancpain • de Grisogono N • O V Tea • Chanel A RU J.M. Weston • Chopard EG • • Piaget O Chaumet M • B • O Hublot • US • Breguet T RU • •Patek Philippe Place du Marché Zadig & ED • Dior ES Voltaire PE Saint-Honoré TIT Meyrowitz • Louis Vuitton • S-C • HA Lydia MP Montagut • S Dodo Courteille • RU Moynat • ED H.Stern • UM Acaba Balenciaga • • ON • Arije Paule Ka T-T HA Akillis • BO PYRAMIDES RU R ET • • Jovoy • HÉ Missoni Christian Dior RÈ • SE Ami • •Frank Namani • Bonpoint RU

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Penhaligon’s • Mulberry •

ES ED RU

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FreyWille •

ON OR

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• Astier de Villatte

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41 rue des Petits Champs - Paris 1st Tel: +33 (0)1 71 72 96 45 / www.acaba.fr

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ACABA At ACABA Gantier, Claire Gros welcomes you to help you find the gloves that will fit you best.

Design, lining, color, leather, all of this can also be combined for a special order. Come and try the Le Mans Classic drivers gloves, golf, horse-riding, hunting gloves... or any unlined one, to match your outfit. For Her, for Him, the new collection comes up with bicolored lined or unlined, very classic close to quite specials.

LA

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L’Occitane

OPÉRA

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J.M. Weston• Gorky Antiquités N Tommy BO Hilfiger AM

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ES CR IB

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Golfino • •Loding

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12 boulevard des Capucines – Paris 9th Tel: +33 (0)1 70 99 18 88 www.bucherer.com

•

Sephora

Exaltation

•Zwilling

RUE

BUCHERER PARIS

INS

•

Mario Dessuti•

BOULEVARD DE LA MADELEINE

In the heart of the Opera district, between Place Vendôme and Boulevard Haussmann, the House Bucherer unveils a sublime 2200m2 space showcasing the most beautiful Swiss names in watchmaking.

The largest boutique in the world dedicated to timepieces, this is the Parisian shop stop.

Opéra Garnier

Fragonard

RUE

MADELEINE Église de la Madeleine

CHAUSSÉE D’ANTIN - LA FAYETTE

Uniqlo •

CAUM

RUE

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Paraboot•

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40 boulevard Haussmann – Paris 9th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 82 36 40 haussmann.galerieslafayette.com/en/

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Galeries Lafayette Coupole

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Galeries Lafayette Homme

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Printemps Beauté-Maison HAVRE- • Guerlain • CAUMARTIN

RUE MOG ADOR

Printemps Homme

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GALERIES LAFAYETTE PARIS HAUSSMANN Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann offers a large selection of items in every segment, from fashion to accessories, beauty, interior decoration and fine food. Located in the heart of Paris nearby the Opera, the 70,000 square-meter flagship store, symbol of the Parisian elegance, offers more than 3,500 brands from affordable to the most prestigious references.

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55 ave des Champs-Élysées - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 45 62 26 47 / www.jmweston.com

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Next July, J.M. Weston opens its new flagship store at 55 avenue des Champs-Elysées. J.M. Weston reaffirms its bond with the most beautiful avenue in the world, where it has sat since 1932. The store was designed by French architect Joseph Dirand, and displays all the shoes and accessories collections of J.M. Weston in a creative 600 m2 space. The largest J.M. Weston store to date, it reveals the architect’s Art Deco inspirations that harken back to the roots and history of the House.

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Born in Saint-Tropez, Gas Bijoux has been creating solar jewelry for over 45 years, handmade by 80 craftsmen in its Marseille atelier. Today, Gas Bijoux is present in over 25 countries across the globe.

10 rue de Grenelle - Paris 6th Tel: +33 (0)1 45 48 11 28 26 rue Danielle Casanova - Paris 2nd Tel: +33 (0)1 42 97 58 80 8 ave George V - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 53 23 88 00 www.gasbijoux.com

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17 ave George V - Paris 8 M° George V www.cercledelacre.com

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CERCLE DELACRE As a pioneer in men’s care, Delacre relies on more than 20 years of experience to help them attain the results they want. A unique concept for hair dressing and grooming exclusively for men, a prestigious location and unrivalled expertise, along with truly personalized services: Delacre is the premier salon for Parisian and globetrotting elites.

•Adidas

w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 45

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8 rue des Canettes - Paris 6th Tel: +33 (0)1 43 54 62 15 / www.dotdrops.paris

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DOT-DROPS® is the brand of choice for the “happy few” of elite travellers. The philosophy of the French manufacturer is to continuously strive to achieve harmony between design and functionality.

DOTDROPS® creations are a solid marriage of colours, design and unexpected materials.

Exclusive: you can customize your suitcase at the boutique and make your travel experience unique!

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7 rue Princesse, Paris 6th Tel: +33 (0) 1 43 26 10 10 / www.eskandar.com

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ESKANDAR Eskandar is a luxury ready-to-wear brand offering collections that combine elegance and sophistication in an unstructured and comfortable style. Clothes made of noble, luxurious materials, cashmere, silk and linen. A confidential unique place hidden in the heart of Saint-Germain des Près.

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33 blvd Raspail - Paris 7th Tel: +33(0) 1 45 44 19 30 www.crockettandjones.com

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A reference for almost 140 years among Goodyear welted shoe lovers, the English luxury brand presents a wonderful collection for this winter, ranging from boots to formal shoes and including smart derbies, elegantly balanced between casual and traditional styles.

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Perry •FredRUE BARBETTE • Jamin Puech Manoush • Musée Cognacq-Jay • Aesol Hartford Les Mille Feuilles • Marionnaud Paris • RUE • Emile Lafaurie DES FRANCS Chanel Penhaligon’s BOURGEOI • S • • Carhartt • •Esteban Pandora Musée Carnavalet Fragonard • RUE DES FR Repetto • • ANCS BOUR• • Ted Baker Muji • GEOIS • •Mademoiselle ••• Iro • Jeanne Michael • • Essentiel • Kors Uniqlo Aubade •• • Marie Sixtine • Lancel • J.M. Weston Eres Ekyog• •TEA RUE DES BLA NCS MAN UX • IZIPIZI Bimba y Lola Maison • • • Devernois • Francis Kurkdjian Maje • Créa Concept • • • Paule Ka L’Argenterie Wolford • R U E D• Cos ES R O SI de Turenne Lipault ER • • S • Heschung• • • Moustaches Thomas All Saints RUE DU PLATRE • Cire • Gavilane RUE• DE JARENTE Sabo El Ganso Huygens Sandro• • Trudon Masha • • RUE STE CROIX DE LA BRETONNERIE K.Jacques •Carven Keja •Ugg • Thierry • Gucci• •John Galliano • Fleux Lacoste • Mode en Alain Villenave Nike RUE D'ORMESSON Karl Mikli • Givenchy Crockett •Lagerfeld •DE SICILE • Demeure •Maje Le BHV Marais • Moncler • & Jones • RUE DU ROI • l’Homme Chevignon TO IN E AN T• • Fendi • IN • RU E SA RUE DE LA VERRERI E Caron Paraboot MX • SAINT-PAUL • UE DE RIVOLI Bapestore R Finsbury • I L • IVO Sentou Le BHV Marais À l'Olivier RUE DE R • • LI O IV R E D RUE ON IR M • Tourist Office IS O AGNE FRANÇ HOTEL DE VILLE ARLEM RUE CH Pierre Boisset • E U R Village Saint Paul • Psyché Papier+ • Mémorial de la Shoah Bénédikt Aïchelé Joaillier Melodies • • Graphiques • Calligrane RUE

18 rue du Pont Louis Philippe - Paris 4th Tel: +33 (0)7 68 47 10 44 www.psyche-paris.com

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PSYCHÉ This charming boutique is located in the heart of the historic Marais district. Owner Chantal Clavreuil has carefully selected both confirmed and emerging French and international designers creating fine contemporary jewellery and offering one of a kind, highly inspired pieces.

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52 rue de Rivoli - Paris 4th Tel: +33 (0)9 77 401 400 www.lebhvmarais.fr

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LV • Betjman & Barton AI RE April 77 • • Moulin Roty Liquides• E N O R 13 Bonaparte • Pierre Meurgey Bellerose • MA• ND IE Maison White Bird• • Ron Dorff • Kitsune Empreintes • • Melinda •Leon Flam Bonton• Mes Demoiselles • RU E DE BR ET Gloss AG NE Popelini • T APC • O IS S A R Le Slip RUE FR • de • • Cuisse JLC Opticien Français Le Labo grenouille • Merci • OUX Oska • UX CH Ami • Atelier NT A • • Lords&Fools U PO D French E U SAINT-SÉBASTIEN R Cologne • Sandro• Trotters FROISSART • Camper État Libre Florian • ITOU • Kenzo Christophe • Robinson d'Orange E Denicourt DE PO Lemaire RUE • Les Bains• L A U D • Paul Smith • Saint James • • Pas de -C RUE PASTOURELLE NT Jack Gomme APC I A • Calais • S UE RU E PE• RR ÉE

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SHOP STOP

More than just a department store: a fabulous lifestyle with its totally unique atmosphere where style rules. Its flair is reflected on every floor of our store at 52 rue de Rivoli, where you’ll find everything you need from fashion, to decorating, beauty to home improvement, leisure activities and more !

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Founded in 1992 in Paris, men’s contemporary fashion designer, Emile Lafaurie, is the go-to lifestyle brand for impeccably tailored clothes and contemporary casual gear for today's man.

Known for signature pieces like the painter coat, the designer specializes in fine fabrics and a refined color palette.

56/58 rue Vieille du Temple - Paris 3rd 28 rue du Temple - Paris 4th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 74 50 05 www.emilelafaurie.com

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w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 47

The Guide

ARTS& ATTRACTIONS

By Patricia Valicenti

Yves Saint Laurent en compagnie d’une courtisane habillée en vêtements traditionnels lors de son premier voyage au Japon, Kyoto, avril 1963 © Droits réservés

Galleries | Monuments | Museums | Exhibits | Day Trips | Boat Trips | Guided Tours

Yves Saint Laurent during his first trip to Japan in 1963 (page 49) 48 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2018

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

Exhibitions

Yves Saint Laurent Croquis d’illustration Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris © Fondation Pierre Bergé - Yves Saint Laurent _ Tous droits réservés; Ito Jakuchu, Vieux pin et paon, Musée des collections impériales (Sannomaru Shozokan), Tokyo, 1761, Agence de la Maison impériale.

Evocative Influences The Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris is hosting its first temporary exhibition this autumn with a refined and glamorous show bringing together some 50 haute couture creations by the designer, which were inspired by India, China and Japan. The show, entitled Yves Saint Laurent: Dreams of the Orient, features pieces emanating from the museum’s permanent collection juxtaposed with Asian objets d’art on loan from the Musée National des Arts Asiatiques - Guimet and private collections. The designer drew his inspiration mainly from books and objets d’art plunging into the heart of local customs and folklore to propose his own sublime vision of traditional clothing.

Sumptuous coats inspired by India would punctuate his early collections while Imperial China would mark his 1977 Autumn-Winter Collection. The landmark perfume Opium released in 1977 would be the heady fragrance of all Asian influences and later Yves Saint Laurent, fascinated by Japan and in particular Kabuki theatre, would create his versions of the Japanese kimono. - P.V. Showing from October 2nd through to January 27th 5 ave Marceau (16th), 01 44 31 64 00

A Kingdom of Colour It is a delicate journey of mandarin ducks in the snow, a white peacock and peonies beneath a pine and an exquisite array of seashells. The Petit Palais is presenting, for the first time in Europe, through an exceptional loan from the Imperial collections of Japan, the ensemble of 30 rolls by the Japanese artist Itō Jakuchū painted between approximately 1757 and 1766. The set of works, entitled Dōshokusai-e meaning the Colourful Realm of Living Beings, which also lends its name to the title of the show, is regarded as the masterpiece of this artist who was a wholesaler of fruits and vegetables before devoting himself to his passion, painting, at the age of 40. The fragile, refined and beautifully coloured works are being presented within the context of the Japonismes 2018 season in France marking 160 years of diplomatic relations between France and Japan. - P.V. Showing through to October 14th Avenue Winston Churchill (8th), 01 53 43 40 00 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 49

Olwen Forest JEWELLERY OF THE STARS

Olwen Forest, a woman of vision, invites you to see her collection of vintage artist jewellery worn yesterday, and sought after today by famous stars and celebrities.

Coco Chanel, Schiaparelli, Joseff of Hollywood, Hermès Gentlemen will be dazzled by the extremely rare cocktail accessories from the 1930s.

MARCHÉ SERPETTE - Allée 3, stand 5/7 110 rue des Rosiers, 93400 St-Ouen (Metro: Porte de Clignancourt) Open : Saturday, Sunday, Monday

Tel: 01 40 11 96 38

www.olwenforest.com

GALERIE TAMÉNAGA IMPRESSIONIST, MODERN & CONTEMPORARY ART Exhibition: New Era of Japan III Date: 20 September - 20 October

Regarded as one of the most influential designers and architects of the 20th century, Gio Ponti is being honoured by the Musée des Arts Décoratifs MAD in the first ever retrospective held in France. Entitled Tutto Ponti, the show is being presented in the lofty main hall of the museum and covers the ensemble of his long career, 1921 to 1978, putting the spotlight on the myriad aspects of his work, from architecture to industrial design, from furnishings to lighting fixtures, from the creation of magazines and his foray into the domains of glass, ceramics and silver making. More than 500 pieces are on display, some of which have never left their original location, tracing Ponti’s multi-faceted career bringing together architecture, furnishings and decors for private homes and public buildings. - P.V. Showing from October 19th through to February 10th 107 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 44 55 57 50

MODERN MASTERS: Redon, Bonnard, Dufy, Kisling, Picasso, Rouault, Soutine, Van Dongen, Vlaminck, Buffet...

CONTEMPORARY ARTISTS: Aïzpiri, Bardone, Cottavoz, Christopher, Cassigneul, Chen, Fusaro, Fernandez, Nakamura, Sugawara, Tchinai, Sano, Yoshikawa...

18 avenue Matignon, Paris 8th M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Tel: 01 42 66 61 94 www.tamenaga.com 50 W HE R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2018

Gio Ponti et Giulia Ponti, Via Dezza, 1957 © Gio Ponti Archives; Hôtel Parco dei principi —Sorrente 1960 © Gio Ponti Archives

Presenting Ponti

Lee Jung Woong. Brush. 2018. Oil on Korean paper. 140 x 140 cm - 55.1 x 55.1 in

From Nature to Culture An Insight into Contemporary Korean Art 12 - 26 October 2018

62 rue du faubourg Saint-HonorĂŠ, 75008 Paris | + 33 (0)1 42 96 39 00 | paris@operagallery.com | operagallery.com New York Miami Aspen London Paris Monaco Geneva Zurich Dubai Beirut Hong Kong Singapore Seoul

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Exhibitions

A Java Journey An intriguing and revealing exhibition presenting works that explore the artistic vitality of the Indonesian island of Java is being played out at the Institut des Cultures d’Islam in Paris. The collective show, one of the most wide-ranging devoted to contemporary Indonesian art in Paris, presents works that take a look at the complexity of a society that is caught in the midst of tradition and innovation.

Entitled Java - Art Energy, the show features 13 artists who explore themes as varied as biodiversity, urbanisation, traces of colonialism and radical Islam.

From the megapolis of Jakarta to the misty mountains of Bandung by way of the city of art and culture that is Yogyakarta these works, most of which have never been shown in Europe before, demonstrate the cultural diversity of this island, which has experienced so many different influences. -P.V. Showing through to February 24th 56 rue Stephenson/19 rue Léon (18th), 01 53 09 99 84

The scenic vineyard of Montmartre is delightfully tucked away on the slope of a Parisian hillside, the 130-metre high Butte Montmartre. Its 1726 vine plants produce 1000 bottles of Clos Montmartre wine each year and the annual and fun-filled wine harvest festival of Montmartre is being held for the 85th time this year. For this harvest, peace will be celebrated with poets, musicians, dancers, singers, philosophers and associations all bringing their messages of peace to the event. Some 150 events are on the agenda in Montmartre and throughout the 18th arrondissement with the great and spectacular procession of the brotherhoods headed up by the harvest queen kicking off from the vineyard on October 13th at 11:45 am. The vineyard is located on the rue des Saules across from the Au Lapin Agile cabaret. - P.V. From October 10th through to October 14th Syndicat d’Initiative de Montmartre 7 rue de Drevet (18th), 01 42 62 21 21 52 W HE R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2018

Jump for Peace © Agung; ; Bas des vignes, © Thomas Dupaigne

A Happy Harvest

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

Alexone, « Screaming feet », 2017, Acrylique et techniques mixtes sur tissus tendu sur chassis, 134x130 cm, AD Galerie; GALERIE LIVINEC, Maurice Estève, Composition, 1946, , Aquarelle sur papier, 26 x 13 cm, Courtesy Galerie Francoise Livinec

Exhibitions

Joyful Urban Art from Alexone entitled Screaming Feet 2017 as showcased at Art Elysées - Art & Design, and a composition by Maurice Estève

The Art of Autumn at ART ELYSÉES - ART & DESIGN

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ctober has traditionally been a month when the arts converge on Paris taking the form of indoor and outdoor art fairs showcasing artists from all over the world offering a unifying gathering from across the globe.

And a key case in point is Art Elysées - Art & Design, held for the 12th time this year, and which offers a unique and dynamic showcase for art and design during the French capital’s autumn art season. Four ephemeral pavilions emerge on the ChampsElysées with each hosting a distinct section of the fair, modern art, contemporary art, 20th century and contemporary design and urban art.

This year the contemporary, urban and modern art sections are showcasing some 88 galleries from France and abroad with 15 of them presenting urban art while the design section brings together some 14 galleries featuring furnishings, rare objects and interiors emanating from French, Italian, Nordic and Belgian galleries.

Art Elysées is hosting a myriad of exhibitions including Inspire by the artist Tristan Vyskoc, a show that gives the visitor painted, colourful and graphic 360° views of Mont Blanc. Meanwhile, the Keep It Wild exhibition from the Franco-Mexican artist and photographer Patricia de Solages explores the fragility of our planet earth with photographs of Iceland, and poetic adventure takes form in the exhibition by the painter and urban artist Kongo entitled Avion (Airplane) paying tribute to Antoine de SaintExupéry, the pilot, adventurer and writer. - P.V. Art Elysées - Art & Design

From October 18th through to October 22nd 11am to 8pm, closes at 6pm on the 22nd Avenue des Champs-Elysées from the Place Clemenceau to the Place de la Concorde (8th) w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 53

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

Artist Duck-Jun Kwak’s Roaming Remembrance on show at the FIAC, and The Infinite Time Machine Work by Aroton & Serghei at the Guerlain Previous Futures show

The FIAC FAIR

t

he FIAC, the International Contemporary Art Fair, being held for the 45th time this year, brings together beneath the captivating glass cupola of the Grand Palais some 193 leading galleries from 27 countries showcasing modern and contemporary art.

Design is also on the agenda at the FIAC this year with five internationally known galleries showcasing 20th and 21st century design.

The FIAC Projects part of the show located inside the Petit Palais across the way and on the Avenue Wilson Churchill (turned into a pedestrian venue for the event) presents some 40 sculptures and installation works. Place de la Concorde is the venue for exceptional architectural installations representing both contemporary and historic architecture and featuring nomadic and utopic visions of living. In conjunction with the Louvre, 20 works will be presented in the heart of the Tuileries.

Galeries Lafayette, the FIAC’s official partner, is hosting a space, the Secteur Lafayette, of 10 young galleries

54 W HE R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2018

featuring emerging talents, offering a precious visibility to young creators during this major art rendezvous.

Meanwhile, the house of Guerlain, which is celebrating its 190th anniversary this year, is participating in the Parcours Privé (The Private Pathway) of the FIAC with an exhibition Futures Antérieurs (Previous Futures) revolving around the avant-garde of contemporary art. - P.V. FIAC

From October 18th through to October 21st 12 to 8pm, from 2pm until 9pm on the 18th, until 7pm on the 20th and 21st Grand Palais, 3 ave du Général Eisenhower (8th) Petit Palais, Ave Winston Churchill (8th) Jardin des Tuileries, 1 Place de la Concorde (1st) Palais de la Découverte, Ave Franklin Delano Roosevelt (8th) Guerlain

From October 19th through to November 9th Monday to Saturday, 10:30am to 10pm and from 12 to 8pm on Sundays 68 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 45 62 52 57

Hyundai - Duck-Jun Kwak Roaming Remembrance -1969 - Gallery Hyundai - Plaster, shell powder, synthetic resin, watercolor, acrylic on wood panel - 182x137cm; Arotin & Serghei – Infinite Time Machine (2017-18) - Création inter-médiale, composition sur 6 écrans, développement infini, 220 x 202 cm. Courtesy Arotin & Serghei.

Exhibition

WHERE PARIS PROMOTION

A MOVING JOURNEY

T

©Théâtre du Temple

he wonderful world of cinema can be discovered right in Paris at La Cinémathèque française, home to one of the finest collections and archives in the world devoted to film. It was back in 1936 that Henri Langlois, a French film archivist, cinephile and a pioneer in film preservation, created La Cinémathèque française to save from destruction films, projection machines, costumes, posters and other cinematic treasures. He would be given an Honorary Oscar in 1974, “for his untiring devotion to the art of film, for his massive contributions towards preserving its historical past and for his unswerving faith in its future.”

Eight decades later the world of cinema that Langlois endeavoured to conserve lives on in a light-filled modern building designed by Frank O. Gehry in which the world of motion pictures is revealed through a museum, exhibitions, projections, a film library and bookshop. It offers a complete cinematic experience for film lovers and is a perfect place for neophytes to discover cinema of the world, of all ages and of all genres.

Visitors enter the Gehry building, which is built around a monumental hall that is thoroughly drenched by incoming light and outfitted with large bay windows and small balconies, and within will discover collections where over 40,000 films, 3000 costumes, 23,000 posters, 14,000 drawings and 2,300 objects are conserved. For conservation, restoration and enrichment are the missions of La

Cinémathèque française, which lends as much importance to non-film objects (archives, books, projection machines and cameras, accessories and costumes), as it does to films.

La Cinémathèque’s Musée du Cinéma exhibits some 600 objects enabling visitors to journey over three centuries into the universe of animated images. Magic Lanterns, optical boxes as well as costumes worn by, among others, Vivien Leigh and Greta Garbo, are on hand as well as a host of extraordinary objects, notably the robot from Metropolis by Fritz Lang and the head of Mrs Bates in Psycho by Alfred Hitchcock.

Temporary exhibitions devoted to major figures in film are regularly presented as well. The Italian film director, producer and screenwriter Sergio Leone is being showcased in an exhibition entitled Il était une fois Sergio

Leone (Once Upon a Time: Sergio Leone) which is running from October 10th, 2018 through to January 27th, 2019 while the exhibition Fellini/ Picasso will be on from April 3rd, 2019 through to July 28th, 2019.

Some 40 films are projected each week at La Cinémathèque française in the establishment’s four movie theatres with programmes revolving around major directors, actors and technicians but also the young generation of filmmakers.

A host of activities including conferences and master classes are also organised around the projection programmes. There is also an excellent restaurant serving homemade dishes using seasonal products.

51 rue de Bercy (12th), 01 71 19 33 33 www.cinematheque.fr

The Good, the Bad and the Ugly Ugly, Sergio Le one, 1966 w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 55

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ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

Find all these listings and more at www.parismap.fr AREAS & MARKETS Paris Flea Market

Also known as the Puces de Saint-Ouen or Clignancourt from its location north of Montmartre, this is the city’s largest and most famous flea market, offering everything from used books and leather jackets to precious antique jewellery and Louis XVI furniture, in a series of different markets. Don’t be put off by the rows of tacky stands under the overpass; the real Flea Market lies beyond them. Sat-Mon 9:30 am-6:30pm.

142 rue des Rosiers, St-Ouen (10-minute walk from Porte de Clignancourt)

Carré Rive Gauche

This group of antique dealers and art galleries in the 6th and 7th arrondissements presents fine works, special exhibitions and exceptional pieces throughout the year. Many of the galleries are specialised in the decorative arts while the venues offer visitors a journey into 7,000 years of art history.

Located on the Left Bank on and around the Quai Voltaire, rue de l’Université, rue du Bac, rue de Verneuil, rue de Lille, rue de Beaune and rue des Saints-Pères (7th)

ART GALLERIES Galerie Bartoux Elysées

A contemporary art gallery on the ChampsElysées presenting paintings and sculptures by internationally renowned artists. Open seven days a week. 5 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.66.36.63.

Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

Galerie Olwen Forest

Gallery exhibiting vintage costume, couture jewels and Art Deco crystal jewellery, as well as jewells created by designers such as Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel. Jewellery made for the cinema and a selection of vintage jewels telling the story of rock and roll. Permanent exhibition Erotica/ Exotica, featuring vintage pieces juxtaposing the two themes. From Sat-Mon. St-Ouen Flea Market, Marché Serpette, 110 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen.

01.40.11.96.38. M° Porte de Clignancourt

Black. Art pieces exhibited in a gallery space ideally situated in the Triangle d’Or. Open Mon to Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11:30am-7pm. 62 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.96.39.00. M° Concorde

ATTRACTIONS Académie Équestre de Versailles

Created by Bartabas in 2003, the Versailles Equestrian Academy is both a school and a theatre troupe. The current show, La voie de l’écuyer opus 2018, features fencing on horseback, improvisation and other surprises.

Shows are held on Saturdays at 6pm and Sundays at 3pm. Avenue Rockefeller, Versailles. 01.39.02.62.70.

RER C to Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche

Atelier des Lumières

A digital art centre where giant reproductions of the art world’s Masters’ works are projected. The first exhibition is dedicated to Klimt. Open from 10am to 6pm and until 10pm on Fridays and Saturdays. 38 rue Saint-Maur (11th), M° Père Lachaise

Aquarium de Paris (Cinéaqua)

Discover the world of the sea at this delightful aquarium. Daily 10am-7pm, first Sat of the month until 10pm, last tickets one hour before closing.

5 ave Albert de Mun (16th), 01.40.69.23.23. M° Iéna

Aquarium Tropical du Palais de la Porte Dorée

This aquarium on the eastern edge of Paris is devoted to tropical flora and fauna and houses a collection of some 15,000 animals representing some 750 species in attractive spaces. Temporary exhibitions, educational displays and workshops are all on the agenda. Tues-Fri 10am-5:30pm & Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. 293 ave Daumesnil (12th), 01.53.59.58.60. M° Porte Dorée

Ballon de Paris

Fly over Paris in a hot air balloon that also measures the level of pollution in the atmosphere.

The balloon can fly up to 150 metres into the Parisian sky. Flights are dependent upon the weather so it is preferable to call ahead on the day.

Daily, 9am to the closing time of the Parc André Citroën where the balloon is located. 2 rue Cauchy (15th), 01.44.26.20.00. M° Javel

cemeteries in the 18th and 19th centuries. The visit is not recommended for pregnant women, people with heart or respiratory problems or suffering from claustrophobia and children under 14 must be accompanied by adults. The 2 km one-way visit ends at 21bis ave René Coty (14th). Tues-Sun 10am-8:30pm. 1 ave du Colonel Henri Roi-Tanguy (place Denfert-Rochereau) (14th). M° Denfert-Rochereau

Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie

Situated in the heart of La Villette Park, the science and industry museum houses a wide number of activities and exhibitions. La Géode-a giant hemispheric dome that shows films in 360°. La Cité des Enfants-interactive spaces (2-7 yrs & 5-12 yrs) are specifically designed to initiate children’s senses. 30 ave Corentin Cariou (19th), 01.40.05.80.00. M° Porte de la Villette

Disneyland Paris

With 2 Disney Parks, filled with more than 50 attractions, shows and parades, a day at Disneyland Paris will set pulses racing among even the most seasoned thrill-seeker. Around 35 min from Paris by train (Nation station), RER A to Marne-la-Vallée/Chessy

Flight Experience Paris

You can pilot a Boeing 737 in a state of the art flight simulator. Under the guidance of a qualified instructor, you can take off, climb, cruise and land. You can choose your route and flying time from several different flight packages. 21 quai d’Austerlitz (13th), M° Quai de la Gare

FlyView

Enjoy a bird’s eye view of Paris with this virtual reality experience located in the heart of the French capital. Participants don a virtual reality helmet jetpack and enter a simulator to virtually fly over the city for a spectacular view of the capital and its iconic monuments. Suitable for children aged 8 and over. 30 rue du 4 Septembre, Place de l’Opéra (2nd). M° Opéra

France Miniature

Impressionist and modern paintings by masters including Cézanne, Renoir, Bonnard, Klee, Chagall and Picasso, as well as contemporary international art including a romantic ensemble

by Jean Pierre Cassigneul. Tues-Sat 11am-7pm.

18 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.66.61.94. Mon-Sat. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

This trendy Parisian neighbourhood has a wide array of bars, restaurants and eclectic shops lining the sides of this functioning canal which links the Villette basin to the Arsenal port. Quai de Jemmapes/Quai de Valmy (10th). M° République

This fun and educational park presents all of the major sites and monuments of France in miniature.

The six major regions of France are covered with some 117 monuments and 2,000 scale models on view in spacious settings. Attractions, educational tools and a restaurant offering regional specialties round out the agenda. Blvd André Malraux, 78990 Elancourt, 01.30.16.16.30. Take the A13 highway direction Versailles/Saint-Quentin-en-Yvelines then the A12 direction Dreux, exit at Elancourt

Opera Gallery

Catacombes de Paris

Grande Arche

Galerie Tamenaga

Modern Masters: Botero, Chagall, Léger, Calder and Picasso, and a selection of contemporary artists: Brasilier, Corda, Mach, Kusama and Joe

AQUARIUM DE PARIS CINÉAQUA | Attractions 56 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2018

Canal Saint-Martin

The catacombs of Paris house the remains of several million Parisians whose bones were transferred to these underground quarries from Parisian

This stunning monument listed as 20th century heritage is situated in the heart of the business district, La Défense. Its rooftop offers a 360-degree

ATELIER DES LUMIÈRES | Attractions

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panoramic view of the city and it houses exhibition spaces devoted to photojournalism exhibitions on the 35th floor. A restaurant and a sandwich shop are all on the agenda. 1 parvis de la Défense, 92044 Paris La Défense, 01.40.90.52.20. M° La Défense Grande Arche

La Mer de Sable

Located in an exceptional natural setting, this adventure-filled park offers a fine day out for the whole family with 30 attractions and a host of fun activities. There are four major shows including two featuring horses, encounters with animals, themed restaurants and the park is less than an hour from Paris. 60950 Ermenonville. From Paris take the North Autoroute A1, direction Ermenonville then take exit 7

Le Manoir de Paris

The urban legends of Paris come to life in this haunted manor house and listed historic monument. Fri 6pm-10pm & Sat, Sun 3pm-7pm.

18 rue de Paradis (10th), M° Château d’Eau

Parc Asterix

This theme park brings you back in time to sample life as it was in a Gallic village. Magic potions, menhirs, cauldrons and a forest of druids are just a sampling of the attractions in this fun-filled park.

Thirty kilometres north of Paris on the A1 highway direction, Lille, exit Parc Asterix between exits 7 and 8. Access directly from Paris with the shuttle bus which leaves from the coach park at the Carrousel du Louvre (follow the signs to ”parking autocars”).

Parc Zoologique de Paris

Bateaux-Mouches

The legendary company has been offering cruises on the Seine river for decades. Doubledeck boats provide an unusual approach to Paris monuments. Departures every 45 min, 11am-9pm.

For dinner cruises please see the Dining section.

Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. M° Alma-Marceau

Batobus

A sleek “shuttle boat” making 8 stops including the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, the Jardin des Plantes and the Town Hall. 10:30am-7pm. 01.76.64.79.12

Vedettes du Pont Neuf

These hour cruises on the Seine offer a discovery of the city’s leading monuments.10:30am-noon & 1:30pm-10:30pm, boats 30 min apart. Square du Vert Galant (1st), 01.46.33.98.38. M° Pont Neuf

River Limousine

Take in a private cruise on the Seine on board a custom-built luxurious boat replete with a salon and a bottle of champagne. Reservations required. 06.86.07.87.37

Vedettes de Paris

Offering one-hour cruises departing from the Eiffel Tower. 10:30am-10pm, boats 30 min apart.

Special theme cruises also available including a champagne tasting cruise. Port de Suffren (7th), 01.44.18.19.50. M° Bir Hakeim/RER C Champs de Mars

DAY TRIPS Château de Fontainebleau

This beautiful zoo presents in 16 natural environments some 1,000 animals, birds, mammals, reptiles, amphibians and fish representing 180 species. Entrance located at the corner of the ave Daumesnil and the Route de Ceinture du lac Daumesnil (12th), M° Château de Vincennes then 46 bus to zoo.

A residence of the French kings from the 12th to the 19th century, this royal château is famous for its superb Renaissance decor by Italian artists. WedMon 9:30am-5pm. 01.60.71.50.70. SNCF Grandes Lignes from Gare de Lyon to Fontainebleau-Avon (40 min), then a short bus or shuttle ride from the station.

Rex Studios

Louis XIV’s magnificent palace, with the Hall of Mirrors, Grands Appartements and Le Nôtre’s superb gardens. The Chateau is open Tue-Sun 9am-6:00pm. Gardens open daily 8 am to sunset; free. Avenue Rockefeller. 01.30.83.78.00. RER C to Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche

Travel into the heart of cinema in this iconic theatre for a unique and interactive visit into the magical world of cinema and into the backstage of the largest movie theatre in Europe. The venue offers fabulous fun and entertainment for the whole family where one and all can take on the roles of alternatively actor, spectator or even director. 5 blvd Poissonnière (2nd), 01.45.08.93.40.

M° Bonne Nouvelle

BOAT CRUISES Bateaux Parisiens

Giant glass-roofed tour boats departing every hour on the hour, 10am-10pm (except 1pm & 7:30pm).

Lunch and dinner cruises also available. Port de la Bourdonnais (7th), 08.25.01.01.01. M° Trocadéro

SCAN TO DISCOVER!

DIGITAL MAP

Château de Versailles

Château et Domaine de Chantilly

North of Paris, a 16th century royal château with a beautiful park and a fabulous art collection.

Mon-Sun 10:30am-5pm. 03.44.57.40.40. SNCF at the Gare du Nord (25 min) or RER D to Chantilly– Gouvieux (45 min) then take the free bus no. 15 marked “Senlis” to the château.

Château de Vaux le Vicomte

This unique estate with its 17th century castle and formal French gardens is one of the most

beautiful in France. The castle’s vast French gardens, punctuated by fountains and water basins, are regarded as royal gardener Andre Le Nôtre’s masterwork. By car 55 km from Paris.

Maincy 77950, 01.64.14.41.90

Giverny

Enter into the world of the Impressionists in this dreamy village west of Paris where Claude Monet arrived in 1883. Monet’s home, gardens and the immortalized water lily ponds remain, all opened to the public at the Fondation Claude Monet.

84 rue Claude Monet, SNCF from the Gare St. Lazare to Gare de Vernon, 45 minutes, then the No. 240 bus to Giverny. 02.32.51.28.21

Musée National du Château de Malmaison

This delightful 17th century castle on the outskirts of Paris was the rural home of Josephine and Napoleon Bonaparte. 10am-12:30pm/13:30pm5:45pm/Until 6:15pm Sat & Sun. Closed Tues.

Ave du Château de Malmaison. Metro or RER to la Défense then bus 258 to the stop Château

GARDENS Jardin des Tuileries

This vast park filled with peaceful wide alleyways for strolling and an octagonal water basin offers a place for a promenade between the Pyramide du Louvre and the Place de la Concorde. Sculptures

by Maillol, Rodin, Dubuffet and Louise Bourgeois are among the jewels set in these refreshing gardens. Jardin des Tuileries (1st), M° Concorde

Jardin du Luxembourg

These lovely gardens were built upon the initiative of Queen Marie de Medici in 1612. They are composed of both English and French gardens, a large pond an orchard of old vintage fruit trees and an apiary. Activities for adults include chess, tennis and remote control boats while children can a puppet theatre, rides and slides. Rue de Médicis - Rue de Vaugirard (6th), M° Odéon

GUIDED TOURS L’Open Tour Paris

Open-topped buses and over 50 stops. Buy tickets on board, at hotels, or at their boutique office.

13 rue Auber (9th), 01.42.66.56.56. M° Opéra

Paris Authentic

This is a unique Parisian concept for personal sightseeing tours and excursions in traditional French 2cv cars. Be picked up anywhere in Paris and the Parisian drivers of Paris Authentic take you for an unusual discovery of their city. 06.64.50.44.19

Paris City Vision

City tours, day and evening excursions, trips to

PARIS

IS ONLY A CLICK AWAY

www.parismap.fr MUSÉE NATIONAL DU CHÂTEAU DE MALMAISON | Day Trips w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 57

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the Loire and other regions. 214 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.60.00. M° Tuileries

Retro Tour

Discover Paris on board a genuine sidecar and motorcycle with a private guided tour from Retro Tour, accompanied by your Gentleman Sider guide and driver dressed in Chevignon classic clothing.

Several tours, which can carry one or two people, are available and you can also customize your tour.

01.85.39.07.07

MUSEUMS & FOUNDATIONS Centre Georges Pompidou

France’s top modern art museum, with some 56,000 works by more than 5000 artists. WedMon 11am-9pm (last tickets 8pm). Place Georges Pompidou (4th), 01.44.78.12.33. M° Rambuteau

Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine

The Palais de Chaillot now houses the Museum collection of French Monuments as part of the permanent collection in the Pavillon de Tête, while the temporary exhibits are housed in the left wing of the Pavillon d’About. Mon, Wed, Fri 12pm - 8pm, Thur 12pm-10pm, Sat-Sun 11am-7pm. Palais de Chaillot, 1 Place du Trocadero et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.58.51.52.00. M° Trocadéro

Dali Paris

In the heart of Montmartre, this venue is entirely devoted to the master of Surrealism, Salvador Dali and houses a private collection of more than 300 of his works including sculptures, engravings, objects and furniture, offering a journey into Dali’s life and work. Daily 10am-6pm. 11 rue Poulbot (18th), 01.42.64.40.10. M° Abbesses/Anvers

Fondation Cartier pour l’Art Contemporain A contemporary art centre designed by Jean Nouvel with an excellent book shop and lovely garden. Tue 11am-10pm, Wed-Sun 11am-8pm.

261 blvd Raspail (14th), 01.42.18.56.50. M° Raspail

Fondation Louis Vuitton

This cultural institution in the Bois de Boulogne is devoted to contemporary art and creation.

Exhibition spaces display permanent collections and temporary exhibitions. 8 ave du Mahatma Gandhi (16th), 01.40.69.96.10. M° Sablons

Institut Giacometti

This venue is devoted to exhibitions, art history, research and education offering a new look on the work of Alberto Giacometti and the period during which he created. It is operated by the Giacometti Foundation, which possesses the largest collection of works by Alberto Giacometti in the world. Visits must be reserved online at www.fondation-giacometti.fr/institut. 5 rue Victor Schoelcher (14th), 01.44.54.52.44. M° Raspail

Institut du Monde Arabe

Designed by architect Jean Nouvel, a cultural center and museum of Arab and Islamic arts. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm; Library: Tues-Sat 1pm-8pm. 1 rue des Fossés-Saint-Bernard (5th), 01.40.51.38.38. M° Jussieu

Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais

National art galleries in the glass-roofed exhibit hall

built for the 1900 World’s Fair. Thu-Mon 10am-8pm, Wed to 10pm. 3 ave Général Eisenhower (8th), 01.44.13.17.17. M° Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau

calculator and Foucault’s 1855 pendulum. TueSun 10 am-6 pm, Thu 10 am- 9:30 pm. 60 rue Réaumur (3rd), 01.53.01.82.00. M° Arts et Métiers

La Cinémathèque Française - Musée du Cinéma

Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris

In a wonderful Frank Gehry-designed building, this is a cinema museum with screening rooms for international film classics, all shown in their original language. The permanent collection takes a look at cinema and its history through an impressive collection of films, objects, archives, cameras and costumes. The museum also hosts temporary exhibitions. 51 rue de Bercy (12th), 01.71.19.33.33. M° Bercy

La Maison de Victor Hugo

This museum located in a splendid private mansion on the Place des Vosges is devoted to the French writer, statesman and artist Victor Hugo who once lived there. The museum’s collections include drawings by Victor Hugo, manuscripts, statues and paintings as well as photographs and furnishings. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 6 Place des Vosges (4th), 01.42.72.10.16. M° Saint-Paul

Les Docks - Cité de la Mode et du Design

This cultural institution located on the banks of the Seine showcases creation, fashion and design. Housed in a spectacular contemporary building, the centre’s programme includes special exhibitions, art and trade shows and designers in residence. 34 Quai d’Austerlitz (13th), 01.76.77.25.30. M° Gare d’Austerlitz

MAD

A semi-private museum with a fabulous collection of decorative arts-furniture, housewares, ceramics and porcelain, paintings and objets d’art, dating from the late Middle Ages to 21st century design, including a dozen sumptuously furnished period rooms. Tue-Fri 11am-6pm, Sat-Sun 10am-6pm, Thu until 9pm.

107 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.57.50. M° Palais Royal

Mona Bismarck American Center

The center is positioned to be the premier venue for American art and artists in the cultural capital of Europe – Paris. Its mission is to engage international audiences in a compelling dialogue with American culture of the 20th and 21st centuries. 34 ave de New York (16th). M° Iéna

Musée de l’Air et de l’Espace

Here you will find 350 authentic aeroplanes, 1,000 scale models, thousands of works of art and one of the finest collections of aircraft in the world ranging from 17th century balloons to the Concorde. TueSun 10am-5pm. Aéroport de Paris-Le Bourget, 93352 Le Bourget, 01.49.92.70.00. Take the number 350 bus from the Gare du Nord directly to the museum.

Musée de l’Armée – Hôtel des Invalides

This historic monument houses a superb military museum while Napoleon’s impressive tomb lies under the golden cupola of the Eglise du Dome. The permanent exhibition draws on a collection of more than 500,000 works, objects and documents from the Bronze Age to the 21st century. Daily 10am-5pm. Hôtel des Invalides, 129 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.44.42.38.77. M° Varenne

Musée Cernuschi

The beautifully appointed 19th century private mansion which belonged to the Italian patriot Henri Cernuschi is home to the city’s museum devoted to the arts of Asia. The permanent collections are housed on the first floor while the ground floor is devoted to temporary exhibitions.

Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 7 ave Vélasquez (8th), 01.53.96.21.50. M° Monceau

Musée Cognacq-Jay

This museum of the city of Paris is devoted mainly to art of the 18th century with the exception of a major work by Rembrandt. Paintings by Canaletto, Tiepolo, Boucher, Fragonard and sculptures by Houdon and Lemoyne along with period furniture, Saxe porcelain and objects worked in silver are housed in a mansion listed as a historic monument located in the Marais. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm.

8 rue Elzévir (3rd), 01.40.27.07.21. M° Saint-Paul

Musée Grévin

Monnaie de Paris - Musée du 11 Conti

This beautiful building on the Seine was home to the French mint. Today craftsmen continue to fashion medals, official decorations and collector’s coins. Tues-Sun 11am-7pm, Wed 11am-9pm. 11 Quai de Conti (6th), 01.40.46.56.66.

M° Pont Neuf

A wax museum displaying more than 300 life-sized historical and modern French and international figures. The restored Palais des Mirages plunges the visitor into a giant, mirrored kaleidoscope.

Mon-Fri 10am-6:30pm, Sat-Sun, bank and school holidays 10am-7pm. 10 blvd Montmartre (9th), 01.47.70.85.05. M° Grands Boulevards

Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaisme

Musée Guimet

A beautiful museum of Jewish art and history in a 17th century mansion. Mon-Fri 11am-6pm, Sun 10am-6pm. Hôtel de Saint-Aignan, 71 rue du Temple (3rd), 01.53.01.86.60. M° Hôtel de Ville

Musée des Arts et Métiers

A marvelous display of some 3,000 scientific and technological discoveries and inventions through the centuries, including Pascal’s 1642

CENTRE GEORGES POMPIDOU | Museums & Foundations 58 W H E R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2018

The city’s modern art museum offers a permanent collection covering the entire 20th century. TueSun 10am-6 pm. 11 ave du Président Wilson (16th), 01.53.67.40.00. M° Alma-Marceau/Trocadéro

This museum houses one of the most extensive collections of Asian art in Europe, displaying over 4,000 works of art from the continent’s myriad cultures and civilisations, spanning five millennia.

Daily 10am-6pm, closed Tues. 6 Place d’Iéna (16th), 01.56.52.53.00. M° Iéna/Boissière

Musée en Herbe

A superb museum for children (and adults,

DALI PARIS | Museums & Foundations

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too) of interactive exhibits and workshops. The boutique, in a fairy tale setting, is filled with books, games and educational toys for all age groups. Opened everyday 10am-7pm. 21 rue Herold (1st), 01.40.67.97.66. M° Palais Royal

Musée de l’Homme

The national anthropological museum houses remarkable, internationally renowned prehistory and anthropological collections offering a glimpse into the human being, his complex nature and evolution from the inception of his appearance on the face of the planet to the present. Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, until 9pm on Wed. 17 Place du Trocadéro et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.44.05.72.72. M° Trocadéro

Musée de la Vie Romantique

A lovely 19th century home and garden with mementos of George Sand and paintings by Ary Scheffer. Tue-Sun 10am-6 pm. 16 rue Chaptal (9th), 01.55.31.95.67. M° Blanche

Musée Jacquemart-André The mansion of 19th century magnate Edouard André and his wife Nélie Jacquemart, whose stunning collection of furniture and art includes an Italian section with works by Mantegna, Uccello and Botticelli. Daily 10am-6pm, Mon & Sat until 9:30pm (for temporary exhibitions only). 158 blvd Haussmann (8th), 01.45.62.11.59. M° Miromesnil

Musée du Louvre

One of the world’s most important art collections, including the Mona Lisa, European painting and sculpture, large-format 19th century French paintings, Greek, Roman and Egyptian antiquities.

Open Wed-Mon 9am-6pm (to 9:45 pm Wed & Fri, reduced price after 6pm). 99 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.40.20.53.17. M° Palais-Royal/Louvre-Rivoli

Musée de la Magie

A fantasy world awaits in this space devoted to magic. Beneath 16th century vaulted cellars are optical illusions, magic art and more. The visit winds up with a superb magic show. Wed, Sat, Sun and school holidays. 2pm-7pm. 11 rue Saint Paul (4th), 01.42.72.13.26. M° Saint-Paul

Musée de Montmartre and Jardins Renoir

The museum on the hill was founded in 1960 and today houses a permanent collection that boasts works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Modigliani and Utrillo. The charming museum is also surrounded by three gardens dedicated to Auguste Renoir, rendering the museum even more exceptional. Open daily from 10am to 6pm. 12-14 rue Cortot (18th), 01.49.25.89. 39. M° Lamarck-Caulaincourt

Musée du Parfum - Fragonard

Discover the world of perfume and perfume making in this delightful museum operated by Fragonard, the legendary Grasse-based perfume and essence maker ensconced in a superb Napoleon III town house. This year Fragonard is celebrating the lily of the valley. Free. Mon-Sat 9am-6pm, Sun and holidays 9am-5pm. 3-5 square

de l’Opéra Louis Jouvet (9th) , 01.40.06.10.09. M° Opéra

Musée Marmottan Monet

A beautiful and delightful museum in a private mansion housing the world’s largest collection of works by Claude Monet. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, Thurs until 8pm. 2 rue Louis Boilly (16th), 01.44.96.50.33. M° La Muette

Museum National d’Histoire Naturelle

A natural history museum famed for its Grande Galerie de l’Evolution, a stunning display of thousands of animal species. Other galleries house the rich collections of paleontology, comparative anatomy, mineralogy and geology.

The galleries and exhibition halls are surrounded by the botanical gardens of Paris and one of the oldest zoological gardens in the world, the Ménagerie. Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, Sat until 8 pm.

Jardin des Plantes, 36 rue Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire (5th), 01.40.79.54.79. M° Censier-Daubenton/Austerlitz

9pm. Garden closes at 5pm. 79 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.44.18.61.10. M° Varenne

Musée du Vin

Opened in 1984, the Wine Museum is a cultural center exhibiting the rich and varied collections of French wine housed in one of Paris’ oldest limestone quarries. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm. 5 Square Charles Dickens (16th), 01.45.25.70.89. M° Passy

Musée Yves Saint Laurent

This museum devoted to the French designer Yves Saint Laurent exhibits the couturier’s body of work and is located on the premises of his former haute couture house. Retrospective displays are alternated with temporary thematic exhibitions and by appointment guided tours can be organized.

Tues-Sun 11am-6pm, last tickets at 5:15pm. 5 avenue Marceau (16th), 01.44.31.64.00. M°Alma-Marceau

Palais de la Découverte

This museum housed in an elegant 19th century mansion showcases some 300 works, objects and documents tracing the life and career of the 19th century French painter Jean-Jacques Henner. Wed-Mon 11am to 6pm. 43 avenue de Villiers (17th), 01.47.63.42.73. M° Malesherbes

This museum and cultural centre geared for both children and adults is devoted to the sciences and hosts temporary exhibitions in addition to its permanent spaces devoted to math, physics and other sciences. Interactive displays, workshops and a planetarium are all on the agenda.Tues-Sat 9:30am to 6pm. Avenue Franklin Roosevelt (8th), 01.56.43.20.20. M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau

Musée de l’Orangerie

Palais de Tokyo

Musée National Jean-Jacques Henner

In the heart of Paris in the Tuileries Garden this completely renovated museum allows the visitor to discover the spectacular ensemble of Monet’s Water Lilies in natural lighting as well as the 144 works of art in the Walter-Guillaume Collection (including Renoir, Cézanne, Modigliani, Matisse, Picasso...). Wed-Mon 9am- 6pm. Jardin des Tuileries, entrance Place de la Concorde (1st). M° Concorde

Musée d’Orsay

A dramatically renovated former train station devoted to 19th and 20th century art, including the Impressionists, Manet, Van Gogh and Gauguin. Tue-Sun 9:30am-6pm. 1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur (7th), 01.40.49.48.14. M° Solférino

Musée du Quai Branly - Jacques Chirac

An extensive and dramatically displayed collection of indigenous arts from Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas. Tue, Wed & Sun 11am-7pm, Thur, Fri & Sat 1am-9pm. 37 Quai Branly (7th), 01.56.61.70.00. M° Alma Marceau

Musée Picasso

A major collection of Picasso’s works - paintings, drawings, sculptures, ceramics - displayed in a beautifully restored 17th century mansion in the trendy Marais district. Tues-Fri 11:30am-6pm, Sat & Sun 9:30am-6pm, late night until 9pm, the third Friday of the month. 5 rue Thorigny (3rd), 01.42.71.25.21. M° Saint-Sébastien - Froissart

Musée Rodin

Sculpture by Auguste Rodin, with works by his pupil and muse Camille Claudel, in a former private mansion, with its famous gardens and chapel.

Tue-Sun 9:30am-5:45pm, late night Wed until

MUSÉE DE LA MAGIE | Museums & Foundations

Built in 1937 as the French Modern Art Museum, the Palais is known today as the site of contemporary creation, dedicated to opening the minds of all generations. This is the only museum in Paris to be open until midnight and almost all events are open to the public. From 12 noon to 12 midnight every day except Tuesday. 13 ave du Président Wilson(16th),01.47.23.54.01. M° Iéna

Petit Palais

The city’s fine arts museum, in a beautifully renovated 1900 building. The extensive permanent collection offers a panorama of art from antiquity to the early 20th century.

Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, late night Thurs until 8pm.

Ave Winston Churchill (8th), 01.53.43.40.00.

M° Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau

Philharmonie de Paris - Cité de la Musique

This cultural venue in eastern Paris dedicated to music houses concert halls, exhibition spaces, rehearsal rooms and educational spaces for workshops and conferences. Tues-Fri 12pm-6pm/ Sat & Sun 10am to 6pm. 221 ave Jean Jaurès (19th), 01.44. 84.44.84. M° Porte de Pantin

PRACTICAL INFORMATION Le Kiosque Théâtre

Offers tickets for shows on the same day at half price. Seats are available for most shows in theatres, café-théâtres and prestigious cabarets. Tues-Sat 12:30pm-8pm/ Sun12:30pm-4pm. Madeleine: facing 15 Place de la Madeleine (8th), M° Madeleine; Montparnasse: on the esplanade between the Tower and the Gare Montparnasse, M° Montparnasse-Bienvenue

MUSÉE PICASSO | Museums & Foundations w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 59

The Guide

DINING

Italian Fare | Fusion | Thai Cuisine | French Cuisine | Vegan High Tea

Dine on fusion tapas at Uma Nota (opposite page)

60 W H E R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2018

DINING

Restaurants

Fusion Tapas The culinary capital is still continuing its love affair with tapas dining and the city’s new offering is Uma Nota. This new table is where Brazilian meets Japanese cuisine, and it is turning out to be a hit, not just for its flavoursome dishes but its creative cocktails that combine the best of both culinary cultures. Start your evening with the Cawasabi cocktail, a Japanese take on the popular Caipirinha cocktail courtesy of a wasabi syrup that gives the Brazilian cocktail quite the kick, before settling in for some great sharing plates. Try the Beef Tataki salad seasoned with a sesame seed Brazilian vinaigrette, the misoglazed roasted eggplant topped with goat cheese and cashews, or the Tuna Picadito with the tuna tartare served on crispy tortilla chips.

The colourful menu also accommodates for vegetarians and gluten-free patrons, with dishes clearly marked on the menu. – S.I. Uma Nota 86 rue Réaumur (2nd)

Noto © Jean Pierre Salle

Time for Italian On the second floor of the Salle Pleyel is where you will find one of the city’s best secrets, Noto. This Italian restaurant is humming with Italian flair, from the friendly Italian staff with the delicious accents to, of course, the fine cuisine. After enjoying a concert at the Salle Pleyel, Noto invites you to start your evening with a signature cocktail before dining on creamy burrata cheese, vitello tonnato seasoned with anchovies and tangy capers, and hearty pasta dishes. – S.I. Noto 252bis rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 86 95 96 60 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 61

DINING

Restaurants

A New Wine Bar Comes to Town At the beginning of the 19th century, the 9th arrondissement in the heart of Paris was known as “La Nouvelle Athènes” (the new Athens), because so many artists (Théodore Géricault), writers (George Sand, Alexandre Dumas, Victor Hugo) and musicians (Frédéric Chopin) lived and worked in the district. Now the arty bohemian character of this neighbourhood is being renewed again as it’s become one of the most popular districts in the city for young couples with creative jobs. Discover this charming district by going for a meal at Uncino, a new Italian wine bar specialising in natural (unsulfured) wines and cooking from the island of Elba off the coast of Italy. The brief menu changes often but dishes like gurguglione, seasonal vegetables sautéed in a light tomato sauce, and spaghetti with crabmeat are almost always on the menu. - Alexander Lobrano Uncino 31 rue la Bruyère (9th), 09 73 28 31 56

Thai Time With a kitchen run by a female Thai chef named Jay and two French chefs who learned the country’s cooking while working at l’Atelier de Joël Robuchon in Bangkok, Yaai Thai is a lively new restaurant in the heart of Paris that specialises in Thai street food. The idea of this table with a colourful décor that recalls the little stalls, which serve up fast, delicious food along the streets of most large Thai towns, is to bring these richly flavoured and deeply satisfying dishes to Paris and propose them at easy-on-the-wallet prices. Over thirtyfive different dishes are available on the menu, ranging from such classics as Pad Thai, rice noodles sautéed in soy and tamarind sauce with your choice of prawns, beef, chicken or vegetables, to gaeng keow wan, a luscious green vegetarian curry containing beans, courgettes, red and green peppers, Thai aubergines, basil and bamboo shoots, and lab nuea, which is Thai style steak tartare. - A.L. Yaai Thai 35 blvd de Bonne Nouvelle (2nd), 09 82 46 06 40 62 W H ER E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2018

BRACH A RELAXED CASUAL LIFESTYLE IN PARIS

HOTEL CLUB DE SPORT RESTAURANT MIXOLOGIE PATISSERIE POTAGER EVENEMENTIEL

1-7 rue Jean Richepin - Paris 16 e t. +33 (0)1 44 30 10 00 contact@brachparis.com brachparis.com

DINING

Restaurants

An Evening with Baudelaire Overlooking Le Burgundy Hotel’s intimate patio, with French doors opening up to the outside, transporting you to a charming atmosphere reminiscent of the South of France, Le Baudelaire is a wonderful table to delight in French cuisine.

The Michelin-starred table sees chef Guillaume Goupil show off his talents, bringing diners a creative menu with dishes that include snails served with a smoked potato cream and glazed chanterelle mushrooms, pan roasted sweetbreads with crispy capers and baby Swiss chard, and cod fish cooked in seaweed butter and served with purple artichoke and sweet blackberries. Elongate your lunch or dinner in this charming restaurant and savour every morsel of your dessert.

Pastry chef Pascal Hainigue has created an inventive menu complementing Goupil’s offerings with desserts including apricots drizzled with a toasted rosemary emulsion and served with an apricot sorbet, and a chocolate meringue filled with Macaé chocolate and served with chocolate icecream. – S.I.

A Contemporary Break There’s no better place for a foot-sore visitor to the Louvre to take a break for lunch, stop for a drink or come for a pleasant casual dinner than at Le Fumoir, a charming restaurant just across the street from the eastern façade of the world’s most famous museum. Chef Henrik Andersson proposes a light, healthy, and reasonably priced menu that changes weekly, but always includes many dishes featuring vegetables and fish. A perfect meal at noon? Try the marinated herring with creamed cucumbers or maybe the mirissa, a salad of cucumbers, pineapple and mint, and then tuck into a vitello tonnato (finely sliced roast veal with creamy tuna sauce), grilled octopus or the meal-sized salad of romaine, tomato, and avocado in a sesame-soy dressing with seared tuna. Looking for a heartier feed in the evening, choose a main course like grilled baby lamb with pureed chickpeas and tzatziki or sautéed duck breast with yellow beet pickles. Don’t miss the standout dessert here either, a chocolate brownie with apricot compote and almond ice-cream. - A.L. Le Fumoir 6 rue de l’Amiral de Coligny (1st), 01 42 92 00 24 64 W HE R E PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2018

Baudelaire, Cochon Basque Kintoa, échine rôtie, pommes de terre farcies, purée de persil plat, jus réduit © Julie Limont; Le Fumoir © Jeremy Jakubowicz

Le Baudelaire 6 rue Duphot (1st), 01 71 19 49 11

PA R I S

AN OUTSTANDING SHOWCASE FOR THE FINEST WINES OF FRANCE

This remarkable selection reflects the formidable variety and complexity of the greatest French terroirs and is now also available online. An assortment of more than 2500 fine wines, champagnes, spirits and aperitifs. This impressive collection also boasts rare large formats such as Jeroboams, Imperials, Salmanazars, Balthazars and Mathusalems. All of these treasures can be shipped locally and internationally in a fast, secure and efficient manner.

www.lacaveduchateau.com La Cave du Château - 31 avenue Franklin D. Roosevelt 75008 Paris, France.

L’ a b u s d ’ a l c o o l e s t d a n g e r e u x p o u r l a s a n t é . À c o n s o m m e r a v e c m o d é r a t i o n .

DINING

Restaurants

Not Just a Grocery Store Trust the French to turn a simple grocery store into the place to be. Maison Plisson, the oh-so-chic grocery store and cafe has opened its second branch in the very chic 8th arrondissement on the Marché Saint-Honoré square.

Fresh produce, French cheese and wine are attractively displayed calling out to be pulled off the shelves while the casual dining setting calls out to be enjoyed at any time of the day. Open daily, Maison Plisson serves up a light and casual cuisine with salads, soups, cheese platters and charcuterie all on the menu. Located in the heart of the city, midway between Rue Saint-Honoré and the city’s famous department stores, Maison Plisson is a perfect stopover for breakfast, lunch or for an afternoon pick-me-up of coffee and cake in between a marathon shopping day.– S.I. Maison Plisson 35 Place du Marché Saint-Honoré (1st)

Stunningly redesigned by architects Olivier Delannoy and Francesca Errico to give it a charming dolce vita atmosphere, Zebra, a contemporary brasserie by trend-setting Paris restauranteurs Alexandre Giesbert and Julien Ross, has become one of the most fashionable addresses in western Paris. It’s open daily for lunch and dinner, too, which means superb people watching in this spacious dining room with a cracked stone mosaic floor, a ceiling of suspended brass candle lamps, and ink-blue velvet chairs and banquettes surrounding marble tables. The menu is a roster of well-prepared French comfort-food classics made with the highest quality produce, too. Start off with some grilled razor shell clams or marinated leeks, and then try the guinea hen with girolles and rice pilaf or the turbot à la grenobloise (a sauce of lemon and capers). And the dessert not to miss is the millefeuille. - A.L. Zebra 3 Place Clement Ader (16th), 01 44 14 91 91 66 W HE R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2018

Maison Plisson ® Romain Ricard

Modern Brasserie Dining

DINING

Restaurants

Vegan High Tea Taking time for a relaxing high tea is one of the moments enjoyed most at the Shangri-La Hotel, and not wanting anyone to miss out on this fine ritual, talented pastry chef Michaël Bartocetti has created the 100% Vegan Afternoon Tea. Served daily in the hotel’s Lounges and on the weekends in the La Bauhinia restaurant, the 100% Vegan Afternoon Tea brings together all the best of the British tradition and the French savoir-faire in excelling in pastry-making to bring vegan patrons one of the best high tea offerings in the city. The delicious tower is filled with 10 pastries, finger sandwiches and of course scones that can be enjoyed with tea or a flute of champagne. – S.I. Shangri-La 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01 53 67 19 91

Shangri-La, Afternoon Tea © Winkelmann

Lyrical Dinners In a chateau hotel in famous Chantilly an unforgettable evening awaits. The Tiara Château Hôtel Mont Royal Chantilly’s Opéra restaurant hosts lyrical dinners every few months, with the next one scheduled for the 12th of October, where singers with very powerful voices from the Bel Canto restaurant in Paris pepper your dinner with impressive operas. With extracts from Carmen, Romeo and Juliette and other famous operas, the singers bring the magic of the opera to your dinner table. The threecourse meal is beautifully orchestrated with the musical interruptions landmarking your entrée, main and dessert.

And with the dining room lending itself beautifully to the music, acoustically protecting and amplifying the performances, every diner is transported to the Opéra Garnier through the singers’ interpretations, and their powerful voices. The hotel is easily accessed by a short car trip from the local train station, which is serviced by trains from Paris, or an hour drive from the capital. With limited tables, it is advised to reserve in advance for your dinner of French cuisine in a dreamy setting. – S.I. Opéra Restaurant Allée des Marronniers, Route de Plailly, 60520 La Chapelle-en-Serval, 03 44 54 50 33 w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 67

DINING

Advertorial

ADVERTORIAL

LAST CALL FOR DJAKARTA BALI

I

n the heart of Paris, in the neighbourhood of the Louvre, which is in constant transformation and just a stone’s throw from where the Pinault collection will reside, one finds the Djakarta Bali, which represents, with talent, the gastronomy of Indonesia. With objects from Java, Sumatra, Bali and other gems from the archipelago, like the teak furniture and the lava stonewalls, the sound of the gamelan and the fragrance of white flowers, you are transported instantaneously to Indonesia!

In an elegant, flamboyant setting the ambience is perfect for contemplation, cosy lunch and romantic dinner.

TRADITION IN MODERNITY The culinary recipes are prepared authentically with fresh products and spices from the archipelago: curcuma, galangga, ginger and lemon grass whose virtues are recognised. Bringing together medicinal and gustatory qualities, spices reflect an ancestral art of living that is once again taking centre stage.

Opt for the tasting menu also known as

68 W HER E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2018

“Rijsttafel” and you will enjoy myriad dishes that are very colourful and very tasty. And then there are the icons: the chicken satay in peanut sauce, the Rendang, a beef speciality that is simmered for five hours in coconut milk (this dish was quite simply selected as the best dish in the world by the readers of CNN Travel) and nasi goreng, Indonesian fried rice.

For a quick bite or lunch in the office all of their best sellers are available as take out. On Friday nights there is a show of Balinese dance in shimmering colours to the sound of the gamelan.

The meal comes to an end with a fresh lemon grass herbal tea or an Arabica coffee from Papua. The challenge has been successfully met: the Djakarta Bali is a fine ambassador for Indonesia. Let’s get a ticket right now for tonight and fly Djakarta-Bali.

Djakarta Bali Tues-Sun Lunch & Dinner 9 rue Vauvilliers (1st), 01 45 08 83 11 www.djakarta-bali.com

w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 69

Address Book

DINING

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris DINING ON THE SEINE Bateaux-Mouches - Classic French

(€€€)

Enjoy a romantic dinner cruise on the Seine river enchanted by violin and piano music. Daily departures for dinner at 8:30pm. On Sat, Sun and public holidays lunches at 1pm (with country music). Port de la Conférence, Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. Mº Alma-Marceau

Bateaux Parisiens - Classic French

(€€€)

Enjoy a three or four course lunch or dinner on board these boats as they take you on a tour of Paris on the Seine. The menus change with the seasons. The lunch menu can include chilled green asparagus with mozzarella and for a main free-range chicken with mashed potatoes. Dinner choices can include smoked salmon to start and as a main filet of sea bass. Reservations required. Port de la Bourdonnais (7th), 01.76.64.14.45. M° Trocadéro

Yachts de Paris - Classic French (€€€€€)

The most luxurious of all the river boats serves up gourmet dinner cruises in collaboration with the French house of gastronomy Lenôtre. The seasonal menu includes noble products and dishes that have been elaborated exclusively for the cruise. Enjoy an appetizer of crayfish followed by poultry with zucchini flowers, then cheese and dessert. Port Henri IV (4th), 01.44.54.14.70. M° Pont de Sully

FOOD & WINE Fauchon

A celebrated food emporium with an excellent selection of wines, along with foie gras, caviar, exotic fruit, chocolates, teas and spices. Also offers top-notch take-out meals. 26 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.70.39.38.00. M° Madeleine .Two doors down at Number 30 find Le Café and Le Comptoir with a fabulous wine cellar, a great cheese plate, and the most delicious caramel éclairs. Amazing gift baskets make for a perfect offering for all foodies.

La Grande Epicerie Rive Droite

This high end grocery store carries superb and carefully selected meats, fish, cheeses and produce as well as a full range of gourmet products ranging from spices to teas and coffees, condiments, a host of sweet treats and more. There is a fine selection of beers, wines and spirits and a luxury counter with truffles, smoked salmon and caviar and other delicacies. 80 rue de Passy (16th), 01.44.14.38.00.

M° La Muette

La Maison Plisson

This grocery store carries a full range of excellent, carefully sourced products ranging from meats to cheeses to cold cuts and fresh fruits and

vegetables. Homemade juices, fine wines and fresh breads are all available and there is a restaurant serving breakfast, lunch and light meals and snacks.

93 blvd Beaumarchais (3rd), 01.71.18.19.09. M° Saint Sébastien-Froissart

Nicolas

The celebrated Parisian wine shops offer a wide range of reds, whites, rosés, champagnes and liquors for all budgets. A warm welcome and excellent advice are hallmarks of Nicolas. The threestorey Place de la Madeleine boutique is the largest and features a wine cellar. An on the premises wine bar is opened Mon-Fri noon-8pm/Sat noon-3pm. 31 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.68.00.16. Mº Madeleine

Vintage&Cie

Exceptional wines are found in this shop, which specialises in grands crus, old vintages and rare wines. The boutique also offers a selection of champagnes and spirits as well as an eclectic range of more accessible wines. Every Thursday evening between 6pm and 8pm the house holds tastings open to the public to discover a wine, champagne or a spirit and the tasting room in the wine cellar can be privatised. 199 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.70.98.43. M° Ternes

AROUND LOUVRE & PALAIS ROYAL (1st, 2nd) Au Coin Des Gourmets - Indochinese (€€)

This restaurant serves excellent Cambodian, Laotian and Vietnamese dishes in a warm and friendly atmosphere. Savoury starters include the shrimp dumpling soup and a fine selection of dim sum. Excellent main courses include the chicken sautéed with fresh ginger and prawns braised in three different peppers. The restaurant has a nice list of French wines. Mon-Sat L&D. 38 rue du Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.79.79. M° Concorde

Aux Lyonnais - Bistro (€€)

A beautiful 1890 bistro now co-owned by superchef Alain Ducasse, offering spiffed-up and modernized Lyon specialties: baked eggs with crawfish, roast chicken with mushrooms, tomatoes and onions in vinegar glaze. Tue-Fri L&D, Sat D. 32 rue Saint-Marc (2nd), 01.42.96.65.04. M° Richelieu-Drouot

Bistro Volnay - Bistro (€€€)

Good, authentic French food in a relaxed, friendly setting with a first-rate wine list including an excellent value Volnay. The cheese tray is superb and generously served. Mon-Fri L&D. 8 rue Volney (2nd), 01.42.61.06.65. Mº Opéra

Brasserie Réjane - Brasserie (€€)

This casual restaurant offers up traditional French

fare at the Nolinski hotel. Classic starters include mackerel in white wine with grain mustard dressing while a nice main is the roasted free-range chicken in a thyme-flavoured gravy. The desserts were created by pastry chef Yann Brys who has the M.O.F., the finest craftsman of France, title. Daily B, L & D, 7am-11pm.

16 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01.42.86.10.10. M° Pyramides

Canard & Champagne - Classic French (€€)

This charming restaurant serves two of France’s most emblematic foodstuffs, duck and champagne.

French-raised duck is served deliciously as foie gras, confit (preserved in its own fat and grilled) and magret (duck breast). There is a superb selection of champagnes as well. Tues-Sat L&D. 57 Passage des Panoramas (2nd), 09.81.83.95.69. M° Grands Boulevards

Champeaux - Brasserie (€€)

This Alain Ducasse brasserie, located beneath the canopy of the Forum des Halles centre, is a fine spot for a nice lunch, inventive cocktails with tapas or dinner. Traditional brasserie fare is on the agenda like cold cut platters and onion soup as well as a selection of marinated raw fish dishes and an array of soufflés, the house’s signature dish.

Daily L & D. Forum des Halles, Porte Rambuteau (1st), 01.53.45.84.50 . M° Les Halles

Clover Grill - Steakhouse (€€€)

The latest offering from French chef Jean-François Piège sees carnivores treated to the best steak in town. Black Market beef from Australia and Prime Angus beef from Kansas are only some of the cuts found on the menu alongside cocktails created by the talented trio behind the Experimental Cocktail Club especially for the restaurant. Mon- Sat L&D. 6 rue Bailleul (1st), 01.40.41.59.59. Mº Louvre-Rivoli

Djakarta Bali - Indonesian (€)

An excellent restaurant run by a charming, Englishspeaking brother-and-sister team. Try lumpia (deep-fried spring rolls), or ayam jahe (chicken caramelized in ginger). Tue-Sun L&D. 9 rue Vauvilliers (1st), 01.45.08.83.11. Mº Louvre-Rivoli

Le Grand Vefour - Modern Classic (€€€€)

The opulent two-star restaurant in the Palais Royal arcades that has been serving the Parisian beau monde since the 1700s. Among chef Guy Martin’s superb dishes are the foie gras ravioli with truffle jus. Mon-Fri L&D, Fri. L only. 17 rue de Beaujolais (1st), 01.42.96.56.27. Mº Palais Royal

Le Céladon - Gourmet (€€€€)

This restaurant inside the Hôtel Westminster offers up sourced market-based gastronomic dishes in a refined Regency style setting. Chef Christophe Moisand changes the menu on a weekly basis but dishes may include a medley of Saint Jacques with

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & D: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner.

LA GRANDE EPICERIE RIVE DROITE | Food & Wine (16th) 70 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2018

LE CÉLADON | Gourmet (2nd)

DINING

Address Book

leeks and candied lemon for starters and marinated cod poached with ginger for a main. Daily L&D. 13 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.47.03.40.42. M° Opéra

Le Meurice-Alain Ducasse - Modern Classic (€€€€€)

A stunning 18th-century room offers a gastronomic menu featuring sumptuous 2-star cuisine that changes with the seasons. Daily B, L (except Sat), D. Hôtel Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.58.10.44.

Mº Tuileries

Le Lulli - Classic French

(€€)

This delightful restaurant located in the Grand Hôtel du Palais Royal offers fine cuisine in a winter garden setting. Recent offerings included a pea soup flavoured with mint and served with peppered ricotta, and the Lulli cheeseburger served with French fries. B daily, Mon-Fri L. 4 rue de Valois (1st), 01.42.96.72.20. M° Palais RoyalMusée du Louvre

Le Restaurant du Palais Royal - Contemporary (€€) Fine contemporary French cuisine can be savoured in this one-star restaurant with an elegant and cosy atmosphere overlooking the beautiful gardens of the Palais Royal. Chef Philip Chronopoulos prepares traditional dishes like lamb T-bone served with sweet peas and seaweed, and caramelised duck served with a sweet apricot jus and carrot puree.

Tues-Sat L&D. 110 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.20.00.27.

M° Palais Royal

Le Soufflé - Classic French (€€)

This is the place to taste one of France’s finest specialties, the souffle. Attentive service and superb quality await in this restaurant established in 1961.

Faithful to traditional cuisine, in addition to over 20 different kinds of souffles, a classic French menu is proposed. Mon-Sat L&D. 36 rue du Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.27.19. Mº Concorde

LE MARAIS (3rd, 4th) Bofinger - Brasserie (€€)

A landmark brasserie with a sensational Belle Epoque decor. Keep it simple here: steak tartare, oysters and big seafood platters. Daily L&D until 1 am. 5-7 rue de la Bastille (4th), 01.42.72.87.82. M° Bastille

Breakfast in America - American (€€)

For a traditional American Diner serving classic comfort food - including real burgers and breakfasts (omelets, bagels and yummy pancakes with real maple syrup etc.), plus fresh milkshakes and much more. Receive 10% off when you order breakfast anytime of the day by showing our ad.

4 rue Malher (4th), 01.42.72.40.21. M° Saint-Paul

L’Ambroisie - Haute Cuisine (€€€€€)

In a beautiful 17th century mansion in the Place des Vosges, media-shy three-star chef Bernard Pacaud is renowned for splendid renditions of deceptively simple dishes such as lobster ravioli with truffles or langoustine feuillantine with sesame and curry. TueSat L&D. 9 Place des Vosges (4th), 01.42.78.51.45.

Mº Saint-Paul

L’Ami Louis - Bistro (€€€€€)

A classic bistro known for huge portions of foie gras and exorbitant prices. People tend to love it or hate it, and well-heeled tourists reserve weeks in advance. Wed-Sun L&D. 32 rue du Vertbois (3rd), 01.48.87.77.48. M° Arts et Métiers

QUARTIER LATIN & SAINT-GERMAIN (5th, 6th) Alcazar - Brasserie (€€€)

This family-owned Parisian restaurant offers a harmonious atmosphere highlighted by luxuriant vegetation. Savour a beet, goat cheese and hazelnut salad for starters then try a nicely spiced shoulder of lamb with apricots for a main. Meanwhile cocktails can be enjoyed up on the balcony. Daily L&D, closed Sun & Mon in the summer. 62 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.53.10.19.99. Mº Odéon

Au Moulin à Vent - Bistro (€€)

Tue-Sat L&D. 4 rue d’Assas (6th), 01.42.22.00.11.

Mº Sèvres Babylone

La Méditerranée - Seafood (€€)

A bright and beautiful, mostly seafood restaurant with marvelous wall paintings and a glasswalled terrace facing the Odéon theater. It once welcomed the likes of Liz Taylor and Orson Welles, as the discreet photos on the stairwell attest.

Daily L&D until 11 pm. 2 Place de l’Odéon (6th), 01.43.26.02.30. M° Odéon

Lapérouse - Gourmet (€€€)

This elegant restaurant on the Seine serves finely prepared gastronomic French cuisine. Starters include crayfish ravioli or foie gras with 12 spices. A nice main course is the aged house steak. Private dining rooms may be reserved as well. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat, D only. 51 Quai des Grands Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.68.04. Mº Saint-Michel

La Tour d’Argent - Classic French (€€€€€)

A Paris institution from another era, now with only one star, but still offering its famous numbered pressed duck and an absolutely magical view of Notre-Dame. Tues-Sat L&D. 15-17 Quai de la Tournelle (5th), 01.43.54.23.31.

Mº Maubert-Mutualité

La Truffière - Southwestern French (€€€)

This charming bistro located in one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Paris is known for the quality of its Salers beef and its specialties of the Beaujolais region. Tues–Fri L&D/Sat D only. 20 rue des FossésSaint-Bernard (5th), 01.43.54.99.37. M° Jussieu

Cozy restaurant in a 17th century vaulted cellar serving southwestern French cuisine, including foie gras and black and white truffle dishes, and menus that change with the seasons. 2,400 bottle wine list.

Tue-Sun L&D. 4 rue de Blainville (5th), 01.46.33.29.82.

Mº Place Monge

Café de Flore - Bistro (€€)

Le Montparnasse 1900 - Classic French (€€)

The legendary café made famous in the 1950s by Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir and other Left Bank intellectuals. The atmosphere is still Parisian, the fare limited to (expensive) drinks and light snacks and traditional desserts. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 172 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.26.

Mº Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Sumptuous food in a sumptuous decor. A stunning Art Nouveau setting in this registered historical monument surrounds you as you delight in a fine selection of grilled meats and finely prepared dishes. Daily L&D. 59 blvd Montparnasse (6th), 01.45.49.19.00. Mº Montparnasse-Bienvenue

Café des Deux Magots - Café (€€)

In a wood-beamed medieval townhouse, twostar chef Manuel Martinez serves delicious dishes revolving around seasonal products. Fine wine list. Tue-Sat, L&D. 8 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.75.96. Mº Saint-Michel

The other legendary Left Bank café, still going strong long after its 1950s heyday. The prices are equally high, but it remains an authentic Parisian favourite.

Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 6 Place Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.25. Mº Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Hélène Darroze - Southwestern French (€€)

Young chef Hélène Darroze serves up southwestern French specialties in this contemporary one-star restaurant. The casual ground floor Salon d’Hélène serves upscale tapas.

Relais Louis XIII - Classic French (€€€€)

Ze Kitchen Galerie - Fusion (€€)

Ze silly name aside, chef William Ledeuil’s chic restaurant offers excellent soups, marinated fish, pasta starters and main courses a la plancha.

Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D. 4 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.44.32.00.32. Mº Saint-Michel

Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above.

LE RESTAURANT DU PALAIS ROYAL | Contemporary (1st)

ALCAZAR | Brasserie (6th) w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 71

DINING

Address Book AROUND THE EIFFEL TOWER & LES INVALIDES (7th) Arpège - Contemporary (€€€€€)

Three-star chef Alain Passard’s menu is now half vegetarian serving ravioli with vegetables, Cévennes onions with Parmesan, and his famous tomato dessert - though carnivores can find dishes like squab with sugared almonds. Mon-Fri L&D. 84 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.47.05.09.06. M° Varenne

La Scène - Gourmet (€€€€)

This gastronomic restaurant in the Prince de Galles hotel offers an authentic and generous cuisine using remarkable products. For a fish course, succulent French lobster is a fine choice while meat dishes include fine milk-fed veal and wild hare from the Beauce region. Mon-Sat B, L&D, Sun Brunch. 33 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.78.52. Mº George V

Ladurée Champs-Elysées - French Pastries (€€)

This beautiful restaurant in the Eiffel Tower serves superb gastronomic cuisine. Enjoy fine food from the French repertoire with the most spectacular views of Paris for a memorable experience. Daily L&D. Eiffel Tower, 2nd floor (7th), 01.45.55.61.44. Mº Bir-Hakeim

Every day from 7.30 am to midnight, Ladurée serves breakfast, lunch, tea time and dinner. On the ground floor the “Eiffel Veranda” as well as the outdoor terrace overlook the glamorous Avenue des Champs-Elysées. On the first floor, the five cosy dining rooms is decorated in the “Second Empire” refined style. 75 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th)

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon - Bistronomy (€€€)

Laurent - Gourmet (€€€€)

Jules Verne - Haute Cuisine (€€€€)

The 1-star lunch-counter restaurant serves contemporary French dishes such as a foie gras burger. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 5 rue Montalembert (7th), 01.42.22.56.56. M° Rue du Bac

Les Ombres - Contemporary (€€€€)

The spectacular glass-domed rooftop restaurant of Musée du Quai Branly, directly beneath the Eiffel Tower. Contemporary French with an exotic touch: foie gras terrine with mango chutney, roast lamb with gingerbread and zucchini ravioli. Daily L&D. 27 Quai Branly (7th), 01.47.53.68.00. Mº Alma-Marceau

AROUND THE CHAMPS-ELYSÉES (8th) 114 Faubourg - Brasserie (€€€)

An elegant one-star establishment in the Bristol Hotel proffers superb cooking from three-star chef Eric Frechon in a delightful duplex space. 7/7, L&D. 114 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th) , 01.53.43.44.44.

Mº Miromesnil

39V - Contemporary

(€€€)

This glamorous one-star restaurant, in the heart of the Golden Triangle, sports a modern, streamlined décor. The grilled langoustines in a light citrus sauce are excellent as is the cheesecake. Mon-Fri L&D. 39 ave George V (8th), 01.56.62.30.05. Mº George V

Apicius - Contemporary (€€€€)

The one-star restaurant of chef Jean-Pierre Vigato, offering a mix of modern and country cooking: lobster ravioli, potato charlotte with caviar. Mon-Fri L&D. 20 rue d’Artois (8th), 01.43.80.19.66.

Mº Saint-Philippe-du-Roule

Caviar House & Prunier - Caviar (€€€€)

Next door to the competition, the caviar shop and restaurant annex of Prunier (16th), specializing in French caviar. Mon-Sat L&D. 15 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.47.42.98.98. M° Madeleine

Epicure - Gourmet (€€€€€)

The beautiful dining room looks out over the hotel’s French garden and is a perfect setting for three-star chef Eric Frechon’s remarkable cuisine.

Daily L&D. Hôtel Le Bristol, 112 rue du Fbg SaintHonoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. Mº Miromesnil

This gourmet 1-star Michelin restaurant serving sophisticated cuisine in a beautiful setting with a garden is a Parisian institution. The finest produce and products are used to prepare seasonal French cuisine with a contemporary touch. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 41 ave Gabriel (8th), 01.42.25.00.39.

M° Champs-Elysées Clemenceau

Lasserre - Classic French (€€€€)

Chef Michel Roth serves an authentic and refined cuisine revolving around fresh produce in this historic one-star restaurant with its gliding sunroof ceiling. Tues-Sat D only, Thu-Fri L. 17 ave F. Delano Roosevelt (8th), 01.43.59.02.13. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Le 68 par Guy Martin - Contemporary (€€)

Tucked away downstairs in the historic Guerlain boutique is a restaurant bursting with flavourful dishes. The menu and restaurant have been conceived by starred chef Guy Martin and the dishes draw their inspiration from Guerlain’s famous fragrances. 7/7, continuous, B, L, D. 68 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) 01.45.62.54.10. M° George V

Le Camondo - Contemporary (€€€)

This delightful restaurant in a private mansion is adjacent to the museum of the same name. The menu changes with the seasons and can include a crab and grapefruit salad for starters followed by filet of duck breast with figs. There are a host of homemade pastries for dessert. Tues-Sat L&D, Sun L only. 61bis rue de Monceau (8th), 01.45.63.40.40. M° Villiers

Le Clarence -Gourmet (€€€€€)

This beautifully appointed restaurant in a majestic private mansion, the Hôtel Dillon, serves the finest in French gastronomy in an 18th century setting. The prix-fixe menus revolve around carefully prepared classical French dishes made with seasonal products and the restaurant has an exceptional wine list. Tues-Sat L&D, Tues D only.

31 ave Franklin D. Roosevelt (8th), 01.82.82.10.10.

M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Ledoyen - Gourmet (€€€€€)

This 3-star restaurant in an elegant 18th-century pavilion with a Napoleon III decor in the gardens of the Champs-Elysées, where chef Yannick Alléno serves his unique gastronomic cuisine. Tue-Fri L&D,

Mon D. Carré des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.05.10.00.

M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau

Les Confidences du San Régis - French

(€€€)

In the chic 8th arrondissement just a few steps from the Avenue des Champs-Elysées is where you will find Hôtel San Régis’s cosy winter garden restaurant. Under an illuminating glass roof guests are invited to sample French dishes including duck foie gras and a scallops millefeuilles. Daily B, L&D. 12 rue Jean-Goujon (8th), 01.44.95.16.16. M˚ ChampsElysées-Clémenceau

Monsieur - French (€€€€)

This contemporary hotel restaurant serves authentic French cuisine inspired by the countryside. The menu changes every month, with a different region celebrated and served up using the freshest ingredients. Mon-Fri L&D. Hotel Lancaster, 7 rue de Berri (8th), 01.40.76.40.18. M° George V

Maison Blanche - Contemporary (€€€€)

Chef Fabrice Giraud prepares savoury and refined fare that changes with the seasons. Located on the 7th floor of the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées, the restaurant with its garden terrace overlooks the Eiffel Tower. Mon-Fri L&D/Sat-Sun D. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.55.99. Mº Alma Marceau

Manko Paris - Peruvian (€€)

This charming Peruvian restaurant serves up authentic fare in a beautiful setting. Try specialities like the causa, a mashed potatoes dish seasoned with lime and chilli peppers, ceviches or ember oven-cooked dishes like jumbo prawns flavoured with Nikkei marinade and served with grilled shitake mushrooms. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.82.28.00.15. M° Alma-Marceau

Yeeels - Contemporary (€€€)

This chic and trendy bar and restaurant offers up fresh and inventive fare and both classic and highly original cocktails in an elegant atmosphere.

For starters try the refreshing gazpacho or asparagus with Parmesan cheese and radishes.

Main dishes can include salmon with wild rice or a filet of Black Angus beef while cheesecake and a raspberry based pastry are stars of the dessert menu. Daily L&D. 24 ave George V (8th), 01.42.88.75.75.

M° George V

AROUND OPÉRA GARNIER & PIGALLE (9th, 10th, 18th) 14 Paradis - Contemporary (€)

This charming restaurant serves up reasonably priced contemporary cuisine made with local and seasonal products. For starters enjoy salmon in sesame oil flavoured with lime and coriander followed by, for example, sautéed tuna in a lemon and vodka foam sauce. Desserts include lemon pie and French toast with caramelised pears. A nice wine list and house cocktails round out the offerings. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D, Sun L only. 14 rue du Paradis (10th), 01.45.23.57.98. M° Château d’Eau

Friends & Family -Bistro (€€)

This charming Parisian restaurant offers up classic

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & D: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner.

LE CLARENCE | Gourmet (8th) 72 W HE RE PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2018

MONSIEUR | French (8th)

DINING

Address Book French, seasonal fare in a warm and welcoming atmosphere. For starters sample sautéed mushrooms or creamy butternut squash soup, a delicious main course is the veal cutlet served in the pan and you can wind up with a cheese plate followed by a chocolate mousse flavoured with passion fruit. Tues-Fri L&D Sat D only. 18 Cité Bergère (9th), 01.45.23.33.33. M° Bonne Nouvelle

Le Lumière - Gourmet (€€€)

Enjoy lunch, dinner or tea beneath a magnificent glass roof in this lovely place. There are champagne and cheese trolleys and the dessert trolley filled with traditional French pastries like éclairs and millefeuilles is a fine ending to a meal and a good reason to stop in for high tea. Daily L&D. Hôtel Scribe,1 rue Scribe (9th), 01.44.71.74.20. Mº Opéra

L’Opera Restaurant - Contemporary (€€€)

Located at the opera house, this restaurant with a contemporary decor of white and red, offers up a great view of the famous opera neighbourhood and one of the city’s largest terraces. Daily B, L&D 7am-midnight. Palais Garnier, Place Jacques Rouché (9th), 01.42.68.86.80. Mº Opéra

AROUND BASTILLE (11th, 12th) Le Train Bleu - Classic French

(€€€)

A magnificent, mirrored Belle Epoque restaurant in the Gare de Lyon train station serving classic French fare including lobster salad with artichokes, sole meunière and steak tartare. Daily B, L&D. Gare de Lyon, Place Louis Armand (12th), 01.43.43.09.06.

Mº Gare de Lyon

Les Grandes Marches - Brasserie (€€)

A new ownership and a new décor have come to this pillar of the Place de la Bastille. The establishment serves up traditional French fare and superb seafood platters. Daily B, L&D. 6 Place de la Bastille (12th), 01.43.42.90.32. Mº Bastille

Ober Mamma - Italian (€)

Homemade pizzas and pastas with ingredients from Italy are the hallmarks of this trattoria style restaurant with its friendly and energetic staff.

Enjoy fresh pasta, made on the premises, with creamy pecorino cheese sauce, black pepper and artichokes and savour an authentic tiramisu for dessert. Daily L&D. 107 blvd Richard Lenoir (11th), 01.58.30.62.78. M° Oberkampf

Septime - Classic French (€€€)

Traditional French fare featuring inventive marketbased cuisine from the talented Bertrand Grébaut is on the agenda here. Enjoy selective produce and products like the Banka trout from the Basque country with lentils and coriander in a relaxed atmosphere. Tues-Fri L, D, Mon D only. 80 rue de Charonne (11th), 01.43.67.38.29. Mº Charonne

AROUND MONTPARNASSE (13th, 14th, 15th) Le Bar à Huîtres - Seafood (€€€)

This is the place to go for fabulous seafood platters, finely prepared fresh fish dishes and one of the best and most eclectic selections of oysters in the

French capital. Main course dishes include French sea bass, lobster from Brittany and filet of beef.

Daily, noon-midnight. 112 blvd Montparnasse (14th), 01.43.20.71.01. Mº Vanvin

Le Ciel de Paris - Gourmet (€€€)

Discover Paris from the 56th floor of the Montparnasse tower. With a breathtaking view, enjoy one of their foie gras offerings or try the delicious seafood. Daily L&D. 33 ave du Maine (15th), 01.40.64.77.64. Mº Montparnasse

Le Gastroquet - Classic French (€€€)

This cosy comfortable restaurant serves up delicious traditional French cuisine. You can sample some briny oysters for starters or a salad of coquilles Saint-Jacques. Mon-Sat L&D. 10 rue Desnouettes (15th), 01.48.28.60.91. Mº Convention/ Porte de Versailles

Le Quinzieme - Fusion (€€€)

Cyril Lignac’s one-star restaurant serves a marketbased cuisine of originally prepared French classics with an Asian touch in a warm atmosphere. Main courses can include beef filet with homemade satay sauce or baked pigeon flavoured with miso.

All inclusive discovery and tasting menus are also on the agenda. Mon-Fri L&D. 14 rue Cauchy (15th), 01.45.54.43.43. Mº Javel

TROCADÉRO & PORTE MAILLOT (16th, 17th) Cristal Room Baccarat - Modern Classic (€€€)

This beautifully appointed restaurant located in the Parisian headquarters of the crystal manufacturer serves contemporary and classic fare. Starters can include a salad of green beans with foie gras flavoured with hazel nut vinegar and for a main savour a turbot prepared meunière style. There is an excellent cheese platter and desserts include a mango Pavlova and a rich house chocolate confection. Tues-Sat L&D. 11 Place des Etats-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.10. M° Boissière

L’Abeille - Gourmet (€€€€€)

This 2-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel offers up sophisticated fare in a beautiful setting. Chef Christophe Moret elaborates a carefully sourced original menu in tune with the seasons. Starters can include preserved duck foie gras with sweet and sour cherries while a seasonal main is the line caught sea bass served with cauliflower and brioche. Tues-Sat, dinner only. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.90. M° Iéna

La Scène Thélème - Gourmet (€€€€)

This one-star restaurant serves refined French food made with the finest of seasonal products and is outfitted with a theatre where you can enjoy a show before dinner. Starters can include sea scallops marinated in saké and garnished with local cabbage served kimchi style followed by, for example, duck from the Challans region with plums for two. The highly original desserts include pumpkin with ginger yoghurt. Tues-Fri L, Tues-Sat D. 18 rue Troyon (17th), 01.77.37.60.99. M° Ternes

L’Oiseau Blanc - Classic French (€€€)

This restaurant, bar and terrace on the top floor of the Peninsula hotel features traditional French dishes with a contemporary twist using regional products. Daily L&D. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.30. M° Charles de Gaulle-Etoile

Makassar - Contemporary (€€)

Savor a contemporary and stylish home-made French cuisine with seasonal products. Free cocktail school & DJ set By Urban People from Monday to Saturday. Daily B, L&D. 39 ave de Wagram (17th), 01.55.37.55.57. M° Wagram

Shang Palace - Chinese (€€€)

This one-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel serves authentic Chinese cuisine inspired by the culinary traditions of southeast China. The art of Cantonese fine dining comes to life in the main room and three private dining rooms. Thurs-San, L&D. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.92. Mº Iéna

BELLEVILLE (19th, 20th) Au Boeuf Couronne - Classic French (€€)

Unique in its genre, this restaurant remains one of the city’s temples to red meat with 16 cuts of beef available in various sizes. Prime rib, filets of Charolais beef, veal kidneys and homemade potatoes are all superb. The upstairs dining room can be reserved for private parties. Daily L&D. 188 ave Jean Jaurès (19th), 01.42.39.44.44. Mº Porte de Pantin

Mama Shelter Paris - Contemporary (€€)

This restaurant features simple fare in a warm and welcoming setting. For starters there is a nice lentil salad while main courses include Black Angus steak with a pepper sauce. The establishment in known for its fine selection of pizzas and there are plenty of choices for vegetarians. Daily B, L & D, brunch is served on Sundays in place of lunch. 109 rue de Bagnolet (20th), 01.43.48.48.48. M° Gambetta

SUBURBS NOT TOO FAR FROM PARIS Ma Cocotte - Bistro (€€€)

This sleek Philippe Stark designed bistro in the Saint-Ouen Flea Market serves up mainly traditional French fare. For starters sample the marinated salmon and for a main course a prime rib of beef or a rack of lamb. Daily L&D. 106 rue des Rosiers, SaintOuen, 01.49.51.70.00. M° Porte de Clignancourt

ReminiSens - Classic French

(€€€€)

This restaurant nestled in a Baroque ambiance is a gastronomic journey into the 17th and 18th centuries.

The menu offers recipes of the age of the kings of France while actors in Baroque costumes tell you the secrets of the French court at your table. Three gastronomic theme menus revolving around the hunt, fish and the market garden are on offer. Dinner only Tues-Sun. 20 rue Baillet Reviron, 78000 Versailles, 06.71.67.02.86. RER C to Versailles Rive Gauche Château de Versailles stop

Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above.

FRIENDS & FAMILY | Bistro (9th)

LA SCÈNE THÉLÈME | Gourmet (17th) w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 73

The Guide

By Sandra Iskander

ENTERTAINMENT Ballets | Cabarets | Classical Music | Cocktail Bars | Amusement Parks

Photo © NBC

See The Nutcracker play out at La Seine Musicale (opposite page)

74 W H E R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2018

ENTERTAINMENT

Shows

An Evening at the Ballet The magic of Christmas is coming a little bit earlier this year with the National Ballet of China coming to the French capital to perform The Nutcracker. From the 24th of October to the 4th of November, La Seine Musicale invites you to watch as 70 dancers and 60 musicians bring the famous ballet to its stage for an enchanting evening. To the music of Tchaikovsky watch as the dancers dance their way through the ballet, bringing to life the heart-warming story of The Nutcracker and Clara. The unique ballet sees the dance company reinterpret the dances, figuring traditional Chinese dances into the performance. Performed for the first time in Paris, The Nutcracker with Chinese influences is a treat for the cultured eye with breathtaking performances and gorgeous costumes.- S.I. La Seine Musicale Ile Seguin, 92100 Boulogne-Billancourt, 01 74 34 54 00

© NBC; Jean Paul Gaultier © Laurent Seroussi

Fashion is a Cabaret There is a new cabaret in town and the man behind it is none other than Jean Paul Gaultier, the famous French fashion designer. Bringing his special kind of fabulousness to the Folies Bergère, Gaultier’s Fashion Freak Show is a unique revue celebrating life and of course fashion with a spectacular show that is at once a cabaret and a fashion show. From the 2nd of October, Fashion Freak Show will be opening its doors and it is billed to be one of the most original revues in town with Gaultier touching on his experiences in the fashion world and in his home city, Paris. Provocative, fun and full of sass, the show will see actors, dancers and circus acts take to the stage to perform to the songs that marked the designer and which soundtracked his life, turning the music hall into a catwalk. - S.I. Folies Bergère 32 rue Richer (9th) w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 75

ENTERTAINMENT Concerts

Paris by Night The first Saturday in October marks an open invitation to discover the French capital by night. The City of Light shines brighter with the La Nuit Blanche annual event that sees free entertainment organised throughout the city. Locals and lucky visitors are invited to take in exhibitions, street art and concerts from dusk till dawn, with the late-night event this year seeing four different circuits put together by the city including the Invalides circuit that will take you from the Musée de l’Armée to the Grand Palais before treating you to a performance by dancer Jamila Johnson Small. - S.I.

A Classical Evening While the Opéra de Paris boasts two sites in the French capital where the company’s famous ballets and operas are performed, the company also holds Musical Encounters, musical evenings with world-renowned musicians. This month, Philippe Jordan, the musical director of the Opera National de Paris and head conductor of the Wiener Symphoniker, the Vienna Symphony Orchestra, will be enchanting the audience with Anton Bruckner’s Symphony No. 8. The talented conductor will be leading the Paris Opera Orchestra for one evening only on the 19th of October at the Grande Salle of the Philharmonie de Paris. You can book your tickets directly online by visiting www.operadeparis.fr/ en or at either the Opéra Bastille or Palais Garnier opera houses. - S.I. Philharmonie de Paris 221 ave Jean Jaurès (19th) 76 W HE R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2018

Studio UY077, Mon super kilomètre, 2018 -® Agence Eva Albarran; Philippe Jordan © Philippe Gontier - OnP

Visit quefaire.paris.fr/nuitblanche for up-to-date information and the full programming.

ENTERTAINMENT Bars

Cocktails with Buddha Le Qu4tre, Buddha-Bar Hotel’s cocktail bar, has just welcomed into its fold a new head barman, and the arrival of Wenceslas Garnier is bringing a new life to the drinks menu at this discreet address in the heart of the French capital. In a cosy setting just off the very exclusive Rue Faubourg du Saint-Honoré is where you are invited to enter the lounge bar that celebrates the four elements in the form of cocktails, bringing you 15 original drinks that are craftly put together and which mix spices that are rarely tasted in cocktails. Try the Bloody Skull, the bar’s take on the classic Bloody Mary or the Pistaccio Mulata mixed with pistachio-infused rum. The bar is open daily from 3pm with a DJ set from 8pm on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights. - S.I.

The Big Blue In an apartment-like setting amateurs of vodka will feel right at home at Le Grand Bleu with a cocktail menu working almost solely with the distilled beverage. Overlooking the Seine, this new night-time destination welcomes a very Parisian crowd looking to chill with a drink in hand. Offering a turntable of entertainment every night of the week, this is one of Paris’s great spots for either a nightcap or where to enjoy an apéritif before dinner. Order the Love in Motion, an island getaway-inspired cocktail with vodka pineapple and passionfruit juice, or the Grand Fizz with vodka Saint Germain elderflower liqueur, tonic and lime, to be enjoyed on a Wednesday night to the sounds of Swiss DJs spinning or on Friday nights for some soul and funk sounds. - S.I. Le Grand Bleu 67 blvd de la Bastille (12th), 01 43 45 19 99 78 W HE R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2018

Bar Le QU4TRE II BBH PARIS © Guillaume de Laubier; Le Grand Bleu pour l’agence Eternity Love

Le Qu4tre 4 rue d’Anjou (8th), 01 83 96 88 88

ADVERTORIAL

ENTERTAINMENT

Advertorial

Bel Canto, Dining Opera Show Nestled on the banks of the Seine, this restaurant featuring food with a southern French flair brings you the luxury of dining while enjoying the music of, among others, Verdi, Rossini, Mozart, or Puccini performed by talented young professional opera stars of the future.

Daily D only from 7:30pm.

72 Quai de l’Hôtel de Ville (4th), M° Hôtel de Ville or Pont Marie Tel: 01 42 78 30 18 6 rue du commandant Pilot 92200 Neuilly-sur-Seine Tel: 01 47 47 19 94 www.lebelcanto.com

w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 79

ENTERTAINMENT

Amusement Parks

Halloween at the Happiest Place on Earth The Happiest Place on Earth just became the scariest place with Halloween taking over Disneyland. Starting from the 1st of the month Disneyland is turning into the ultimate Halloween celebration destination with the Disney villains taking over the park. See Sleeping Beauty’s castle transform into Maleficent’s dragon while ghosts and pumpkins invade Main Street, U.S.A. October also marks Mickey’s 90th birthday, bringing more celebrations to Disney with Mickey’s Halloween Cavalcade parade letting the birthday mouse take the spotlight and play some tricks on you as he takes centre stage on the Mickey’s Illusion Manor float complete with scary apparitions. - S.I. Disneyland From Paris take the RER A to Marne-la-Vallée/Chessy DisneylandParis.com Please check website before making your way to the park for all opening hours.

They are two of the most popular cartoon characters in France, and the world, and the legendary duo Astérix and Obelix are now waiting for you at Parc Astérix with a cocktail in hand. The amusement park, built to resemble a Gallic village is where you can discover 6 exotic worlds, 45 rides and the newly inaugurated Aerolaf bar. Located in the Viking “world” of the park, the bar accommodates 16 at a time and offers a breathtaking view of the park and its surroundings. The unique bar lets you enjoy cocktails, mocktails and beer on tap 35 metres above ground where for 10 minutes you can take in the view and take a breather between the thrill-seeking rides. The bar is open from 11.30am until the closing of the park and is a fun way to punctuate your time in an already fun-filled day in an amusement park. - S.I. There are direct shuttles to the park available from the Louvre in front of the Palais Royal metro station (99 rue de Rivoli, 1st), alternatively you could take the RER B train to Charles de Gaulle airport terminal 1 then take the Parc Astérix shuttle from platform A3. Make sure you visit www.parcasterix.fr/en for all opening hours.

80 W HE R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2018

Disneyland Paris Photo © Disneyland Paris; Parc Astérix © Arnaud Sobczyk

Cocktails in the Air

ADVERTORIAL

“Learning to be French through Comedy” As tourists or expats in Paris there are some quirks we have all noticed among the Parisians, the way they march to their destinations, their constant pouting and the way they order at restaurants.

Olivier Giraud has too, noticed that the Parisians are unique in their behaviour, and has decided to bring all those idiosyncrasies to light.

Born in Bordeaux, Olivier moved to Paris to study hotel management and after graduating he moved to the Unites States where he managed a restaurant of a 5-star hotel. After four years, and many soul-searching nights, he decided to return to France and follow his real dream of

becoming a comedian.

Having experienced the cultural differences between the Parisians and Americans while in Florida, and having observed for himself the tourists of all nationalities in Paris, he decided to not shy away from the hardhitting questions of how one becomes a real Parisian.

How do you grab a waiter’s attention in a café? In the metro, what do you do if you see an older lady or a pregnant woman? And how do you behave in a cab?

Putting together a one man show, How to become a Parisian in one hour?, the stand-up comic will leave you rolling in your seat from laughter and 100% prepared

for any situation in the City of Light.

The ultimate Parisian theatre experience created by Olivier Giraud! Enjoyed by more than 500 000 spectators, this show is much more than a stand-up comedy! It’s a hilarious, incisive and visual observation of the Parisian behaviour! Performed 100% in English all year round in one of the most beautiful Italian Renaissance style theatres (600 seats) located in the lively heart of Paris...

Ohlala!

Non-stop laughter from a real Parisian guaranteed to leave you wanting more.

This is THE PERFECT GUIDE to enjoy Paris and the Parisians!

SMASH HIT SHOW 100% IN ENGLISH

THURSDAY, FRIDAY AND SATURDAY @ 7PM + SUNDAY @ 6PM

BOOKING

24 Blvd Poissonnière (9 th) M° Grands Boulevards Theater with air conditioning

Sans titre-5 1

www.oliviergiraud.com or +33 (0) 6 98 57 45 98 Rated BEST THEATER PERFORMANCE

Not recommended for kids under 16 years old

w w w. p a r i s m a p. fr 81 01/06/2017 11:51

Cabarets

CRAZY HORSE

PARADIS LATIN

A legendary cabaret synonymous with beauty, elegance, sensuality and sophistication. A show performed by 19 exceptionally beautiful dancers, bathed in richly coloured and textured lighting designs. The current show is inspired by the endless theme of femininity .

Sun-Fri at 8:15 & 10:45 pm, Sat at 7:00, 9:30 & 11:45 pm.

Le Théâtre Latin was built in 1803 and quickly became one of the chicest addresses in the Latin quarter. The theatre was re-built by Gustav Eiffel in 1889 and renamed the Paradis Latin.

The current show, Paradis à la Folie!, is a magical feast for the eyes and ears.

Daily 8 pm.

www.lecrazyhorseparis.com 12 ave George V (8th), 01 47 23 32 32 M° Alma-Marceau

www.paradislatin.com 28 rue du Cardinal Lemoine (5th), 01 43 25 28 28 M° Cardinal Lemoine/Jussieu

The current show, Paris Merveilles, is a wonderful song-and-dance spectacular journey into Paris with stunning sets and 600 dazzling costumes. Daily. www.lido.fr 116bis ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 40 76 56 10 M° George V

82 WH E R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2018

MOULIN ROUGE This famous cabaret is home to the original cancan. The current show, Féerie, sparkles with talented performers, including the 60 Doriss girls and spectacular staging. Daily. www.moulinrouge.fr 82 blvd de Clichy (18th), 01 53 09 82 82 M° Blanche

Paradis Latin © Paradis Latin

LIDO

© Bal du Moulin Rouge 2018 - Moulin Rouge® - 1-1028499

Paradis Latin

© Bal du Moulin Rouge 2018 - Moulin Rouge® - 1-1028499

LA REVUE DU PLUS CÉLÈBRE CABARET DU MONDE ! - THE SHOW OF THE MOST FAMOUS CABARET IN THE WORLD! DÎNER ET REVUE À 19H À PARTIR DE 180€ - REVUE À 21H ET 23H À PARTIR DE 77€ - DINNER AND SHOW AT 7PM FROM €180 - SHOW AT 9PM & 11PM FROM €77

MONTMARTRE 82, BLD DE CLICHY 75018 PARIS - TEL : 33(0)1 53 09 82 82 - WWW.MOULINROUGE.COM

Address Book

ENTERTAINMENT For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris Badaboum

Located a few minutes from the Place de la Bastille, this fun bar offers excellent and original cocktails. The bar also features a small but very good snacking menu. 2bis rue des Taillandiers (11th), 01.48.06.50.70. M° Bastille

Buddha-Bar

This trend-setting cocktail bar and restaurant attracts both fashionistas and curious tourists, with a giant golden Buddha presiding over the scene and service that’s cooler-than-thou. 8 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 01.53.05.90.00. M° Concorde

Bar du Plaza Athénée

Absolute chic, with a decor that includes an impressive sculpted glass bar. 6pm-1:30am.

25 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.67.66.00.

M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Bar Le Baudelaire

This congenial bar in the Burgundy hotel is akin to an English club. Discover a host of creative cocktails. 6-8 rue Duphot (1st), 01.42.60.34.12.

M° Madeleine

Experimental Cocktail Bar

A fun bar hidden in the heart of the 2nd arrondissement where you can enjoy delicious cocktails and cool music. 37 rue Saint Sauveur (2nd), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Sentier

Harry’s New York Bar

This landmark establishment is a fine place to enjoy drinks at the roomy and frendly bar.

The traditional cocktail spot also serves up live piano music starting at 10pm. 5 rue Daunou (2nd), 01.42.61.71.14. M° Opéra

Hotel Costes Bar

This chic bar and lounge is an ideal and pricey Parisian spot for people watching in a sumptuous décor. 239 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.44.50.00. M° Tuileries

Hotel Providence

Enjoy creative cocktails or a glass of wine in this cosy bar on a cobblestone street in the lively Grands Boulevards neighbourhood. The spot is outfitted with a fireplace and a boudoir-style ambiance and the bartender can mix you a made-to-measure drink. 90 rue René Boulanger (10th), 01.46.34.34.04. M° Strasbourg Saint-Denis

Ice Kube Paris

The decoration is frozen into ice and the cocktails are served in solid ice glasses, so prepare yourself to face

LE BAR LONG | Bars & Wine Bars (8th) 84 W H E R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2018

the frozen world of this -12°C bar. 1 Passage Ruelle (18th), 01.42.05.20.00, M° La Chapelle & Marx Dormoy

regions among others. 10 rue du Marché SaintHonoré (1st), 01.42.61.03.34. M° Pyramides

Juveniles

Les Jardins du Pont Neuf

This cosy and welcoming wine bar serves up fine French wines as well as wines from around the world and you can purchase bottles to take away. 47 rue de Richelieu (1st), 01.42.97.46.49.

M° Pyramides

Kléber Bar

High ceilings, ornate décor and fine service are hallmarks of this elegant bar in the Peninsula Hotel. Classic cocktails, signature mixes and a fine selection of wines and champagnes are all on the menu. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.78.

M° Boissière

Le Bristol Bar

With a stunning view of the City of Light’s famous bridges, this restaurant and bar has become a favourite with the city’s fun crowd, where they can go and enjoy great cocktails and say “santé” with each round. This is a perfect address for a drink before a dinner in the Quartier Latin or after a day spent at the Louvre. Quai de l’Horloge (1st), 06.30.15.83.02. M° Pont Neuf

Moonshiner

This speakeasy bar near the Place de la Bastille has an ambiance straight out of the 1920s complete with jazz music playing in the background. 5 rue Sedaine (11th), 09.50.73.12.99. M° Bréguet-Sabin

This discreet and elegant spot is ideal for enjoying cosy drinks including a variety of original cocktails and a fine selection of champagnes. 112 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. M° Miromesnil

Prescription Cocktail Club

Le Bar

The Left Bank hotel where Oscar Wilde died is a trendy spot for a cocktail redecorated with a voluptuous décor. 13 rue des Beaux-Arts (6th), 01.44.41.99.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés

This sophisticated cocktail bar, frequented by the beautiful people of the city, serves up carefully mixed drinks in cosy seated areas.

58 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 09.54.37.13.65.

M° Les Halles

Le Bar Long

CASINO

This posh bar located in the Royal Monceau is a perfect spot for a sophisticated cocktail or nightcap in a cosy setting. 37 ave Hoche (8th), 01.42.99.88.00. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile

La Closerie des Lilas

This trendy bar is excellent for delicious and original cocktails with cool music, friendly staff and tequila.

23 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Mabillon

The Ballroom

Casinos Barrière

France’s largest casino, with elegant decor, table games and slots. Jacket and tie for men; no jeans or running shoes. 3 ave de Ceinture, Enghien-lesBains, 01.39.34.13.17. Train from Gare du Nord

The bar of this mythical place remains magical.

Thankfully some things don’t change. 171 blvd du Montparnasse (6th), 01.40.51.34.50. M° Vavin

JAZZ CLUBS

Le Dokhan’s Champagne Bar

This club in a vaulted cellar in the heart of the Latin Quarter has been showcasing fine jazz music for the past six decades. The spot is rife with history, a Masonic lodge in the 18th century, the Knights Templar held meetings at this location in the Middle Ages. 5 rue de la Huchette (5th), 01.43.26.65.05. M° Saint-Michel

A stunning hotel bar replete with Louis Vuitton elevator featuring a fine selection of rare and classic champagnes. In the Radisson Blu Le Dokhan’s Hotel. 117 rue Lauriston (16th), 01.53.65.66.99. M° Victor Hugo

Le Lucien Bar

Every detail here is perfect from the temperature of the vintage white port to the dimensions of the glasses for gin and tonic. Hotel Fouquet’s Barrière.

46 ave George V (8th), 01.40.69.60.00. M° George V

Le Rubis

This quintessential Parisian wine bar attracts a local clientele into its relaxed atmosphere where you can enjoy wines from the Beaujolais and Burgundy

Caveau de la Huchette

Duc des Lombards

One of Paris’ oldest jazz clubs magnificently renovated by Andrée Putman’s collaborator, the talented Elliot Barnes. The Duc also boasts one of the best sound-systems in town and is now known as the House of Jazz. Daily performances, live recordings and a healthy mix of jazz man jams make this the address for Jazz. 42 rue des Lombards (1st), 01.42.33.22.88. M° Châtelet

BUDDHABAR | Bars & Wine Bars (8th)

Buddha-Bar ©pmonetta

BARS & WINE BARS

ENTERTAINMENT

Address Book

Jazz Club Etoile

A true temple to jazz since it opened two decades ago, the club has welcomed the likes of Count Basie, B.B. King, Cab Calloway and Lionel Hampton. Thurs-Sat. 81 blvd Gouvion Saint-Cyr (17th), 01.40.68.30.42. M° Porte Maillot

New Morning

The legendary Parisian venue for jazz both classic and eclectic has hosted the world’s jazz greats for two decades: Art Blakey, Dizzy Gillespie, Stan Getz... Devoted jazz fans come here to listen to two hours of solid music and the crowd begins to accumulate around 8 pm, so come early. 7-9 rue des Petites-Ecuries (10th), 01.45.23.51.41. M° Château d’Eau

GENTLEMEN’S CLUBS Pink Paradise

The first table-dancing show in Paris and where everyone who still wants to party goes after all the other clubs are done for the night.

Daily 10.30 pm-6 am. 36 rue de Ponthieu (8th), 06.34.57.40.19. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Secret Square

The French capital’s glamorous restaurant and club is where clients are treated to a sexy striptease show thanks to the dancers performing in a jewel-box décor. The show features 20 to 30 dancers and guests are treated to an unforgettable show. 27 ave des Ternes (17th) , 01.47.66.45.00. M° Ternes

NIGHT CLUBS

champagne in a splendid décor created by Erté.

58 rue Bassano (8th), 01.47.20.02.90. M° George V

Le Mona Lisa

This private club, conceived and designed by David Lynch, offers excellent cocktails, wine and spirits, finger food and food tastings. Nonmembers are admitted after midnight. 142 rue de Montmartre (2nd), 01.40.13.12.33. M° Sentier/ Grands Boulevards

Just footsteps from the Louvre this friendly and festive club brings in the fashion crowd and plenty of Parisian trendsetters. The chic and arty clientele enjoys a programme of hip-hop, rock and a touch of electro pop. The establishment also boasts a restaurant . Tues-Sat 8pm-6am.

47 rue Berger (1st), 01 40 13 12 12. M° Louvre-Rivoli

Le Montana

This nightclub in the heart of the Saint-Germaindes-Prés neighbourhood is one of the capital’s trendiest and most select spots. The bar is on the ground floor and the dance floor, downstairs, in the vaulted cellars. 28 rue Saint Benoît (6th), 01.44.39.71.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Le Social Club

Trendy spot for enjoying excellent live music, tasty drinks and even a cigarette in the club’s smoking room. 142 rue Montmartre (2nd), 06.84.80.99.40. M° Bourse

Les Bains

This club, in the hotel of the same name, is one of the places to be for a slice of great Parisian nightlife. The venue hosts live shows, concerts as well as resident and guest DJs featuring hip-hop, soul and tunes from the 1970s taking guests back into the club’s glory days. Tues-Sat, midnight until dawn. 7 rue du Bourg-l’Abbé (3rd), 01.42.77.07.07. M° Rambuteau

Pachamama

L’Arc Paris

Favoured by French and international celebrities, enjoy cocktails and fine music with a gorgeous view of the Arc de Triomphe.

The club has a great dance floor in black and white veined marble, a fumoir and VIP loges.

Thurs-Sat 11pm-5am. 12 rue de Presbourg (16th), 06.59.21.32.44. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile

Le Baron

You can club until dawn at this celebrated and celebrity filled night spot. Its cabaret-like ambiance - there’s live music - attracts a trendy, elite crowd. Look your best to get past the door.

6 ave Marceau (8th), 01.47.20.04.01. M° Alma-Marceau

Le Duplex

armchairs. The huge dance floor in the discoteque is a dancer’s dream. 2bis ave Foch (16th), 01.45.00.45.00. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile

Regulars appreciate the clubby and friendly atmosphere at this comfortable Parisian club replete with gastronomic restaurant whose cosy atmosphere is highlighted by Chesterfield

Silencio

Titty Twister

This trendy loft-like club is a chic address for drinks and great music. The popular establishment has the added feature of a smoking room with a pool table as well as a tequila stand along with eclectic cocktails and large size drinks for sharing. Mon-Sat 9pm-5am.

5 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.50.23. M° George V

Vanity Paris

This sought-after venue offers hip-hop vibes in a luxurious setting where the champagne flows in every corner. Special soirées are held every night including Throwback Thursday for an old school style party. The door policy is strict so be sure to dress smart. Tues-Sat 11:30pm-6am. 25 rue de Richelieu (1st), 06 69 72 79 79. M° Pyramides

VIP Room

One of the most exclusive clubs on the Parisian nightlife scene, this chic haven for the rich and famous lets you dance the night away to hip hop and house music. 188 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.58.36.46.00. M° Palais Royal

MAGICAL & OPERA SHOWS

This delightful dinner-club spread out over four beautifully decorated floors in a 19th century building by Gustave Eiffel is just footsteps away from the Bastille. Enjoy drinks, dinner or a DJ set in a festive South American ambiance. Features include a monumental Art Deco staircase, a ballroom, a restaurant showcasing Latin American specialties and a smoking room. Daily from 5pm. 46-48 rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine (12th), 01.55.78.84.75. M° Bastille

Le Bel Canto

Palais Maillot

Le Double Fond

A luxurious nightclub known for its gala evenings. Fridays are fashion oriented while Saturdays feature guest DJs. Fri-Sat 11:30pm-6am. 2 Place Porte Maillot (17th), 01.58.56.20.55. M° Porte-Maillot

Raspoutine

This mythical Parisian venue remains an authentic night spot to enjoy cocktails and

L’ARC PARIS

| Night Clubs (16th)

Nestled on the banks of the Seine, this restaurant featuring food with a southern French and Italian flair brings you the luxury of dining while enjoying the music of, among others, Verdi, Rossini, Mozart, or Puccini performed by talented young singers from the conservatory of the Paris Opera. Daily D only from 7:30pm. 72 Quai de l’Hôtel de Ville (4th), 01.42.78.30.18. M° Pont Marie This unique venue is dedicated to the world of magic. You can enjoy drinks or dinner at the bar or at your table served by waiters who are English-speaking magicians who perform tableside. Downstairs a host of unique, interactive and humorous magic shows are held from Wednesday to Sunday. 11 Place du Marché Sainte-Catherine (4th), 01.42.71.40.20. M° Saint-Paul

VIP ROOM

| Night Clubs (1st) w w w.pa r i s m a p. fr 85

The Guide

SERVICES

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris EUROSTAR & TRAINS

MEDICAL SERVICES

Eurostar - Aim to arrive at least 30 minutes

American Hospital of Paris - 63 blvd Victor Hugo,

before departure time or you will risk not being allowed to board the train. If you still need to pick up your ticket at the station you should arrive at least an hour before your scheduled departure. 08.92.35.35.39. www.eurostar.com

SNCF - TGV trains leave from varying

stations (www.sncf.com). Thalys, links Paris to Brussels and Amsterdam (www.thalys.com).

You can buy a ticket in any station for any destination; your ticket will indicate your departure station. Punch your ticket in the composteur before boarding your train or risk being fined.

LIMOUSINES Biribin – Tel: 01.43.48.65.65 Chabé Limousines – Tel: 01.41.20.95.10 FIRST Limousine – Tel: 01.41.40.99.99 Massey Limousines – Tel: 01.58.05.13.00 MC Plaza – Tel: 01.58.62.57.47 Meet the French – Tel: 01.53.53.14.94 My Daily Driver – Tel: 01.43.24.28.15 MY STS – Tel: 01.74.54.50.08 Premier Limousine – Tel: 01.47.31.80.50 Service Prestige – Tel: 01.44.29.29.44

PARIS DISTRICTS

92200 Neuilly-sur-Seine, 01.46.41.25.25.

M° Pont de Neuilly British American Pharmacy - 1 rue Auber (9th), 01.42.65.88.29. M° Opéra Pharmacie des Champs-Elysées (24/24) 84 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.02.41.

M° Franklin Roosevelt Pharmacie Monge  74 rue Monge (5th), 01.43.31.39.44. M° Place Monge

RENTAL CARS & SCOOTERS

Avis - Tel: 08.21.23.07.60, www.avis.fr Budget - Tel: 08.25.00.35.64, www.budget.fr First GT Location - Tel: 01.41.19.29.62, www.firstgtlocation.fr Freescoot - Tel: 01.44.07.06.72, www.freescoot.com Europcar - Tel: 08.25.35.83.58, www.europcar.fr Hertz - Tel: 08.25.86.18.61, www.hertz.fr

TAX REFUND When shopping do not forget to claim back the taxes paid. Most boutiques require a minimum amount spent in the one day (and in the same store) before you can apply for the tax refund. Along with your payment simply show them your passport and ask them to fill in the detaxe form for you, which you will later need customs to stamp at the airport before flying off.

1st ARRONDISSEMENT - The Louvre museum housing the Mona Lisa overlooks the Tuileries Gardens.

2nd ARRONDISSEMENT - Rue Etienne Marcel and the Place des Victoires are lined with trendy boutiques.

3rd - 4th ARRONDISSEMENT - Orthodox Jews rub shoulders with the gay crowd in the Marais, the city’s oldest existing neighborhood.

5th ARRONDISSEMENT - Where you will

find the young crowds hanging out at Place St Michel and on Rue Mouffetard, a lively market street.

6th ARRONDISSEMENT - The epitome of Left

HAIR SALONS

REAL ESTATE AGENCIES

Alexandre de Paris - 3 ave Matignon (8th),

Barnes Paris - 120 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th),

01.42.25.57.90. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Carita - 11 Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.94.11.11. M° Concorde Christophe-Nicolas Biot - 52 rue Saint-André des Arts (6th), 01.43.26.58.21. M° Odéon Coiffirst - 52 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.07.11.01. M° Madeleine David Mallett - 14 rue Notre-Dame des Victoires (2nd), 01.40.20.00.23. M° Bourse Institut Leonor Greyl - 15 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.42.65.32.26. M° Madeleine L’instant 2moss - 5 Square de l’Opéra-Louis Jouvet (9th), 01.44.56.03.66. M° Madeleine Salon Konfidentiel - 267 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.61.05.35. M° Concorde Salon Rossano Ferretti - 4 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.60.31.95. M° Concorde

SCAN TO DISCOVER!

DIGITAL MAP

01.85.34.70.70. M° Saint-Philippe-du-Roule Daniel Féau - 140 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.53.07.07. M° Saint-Philippe-du-Roule Emile Garcin - 24 rue du Boccador (8th), 01.58.12.02.02. M° Alma-Marceau Espaces Atypiques - 64 rue des Tournelles (3rd), 01.42.71.03.84. M° Bréguet-Sabin Philippe Menager & Nicolas Hug - 31 rue de Tournon (6th), 01.53.10.22.60. M° Mabillon Paris Attitude - 21 rue Vauvenargues (18th), 01.42.96.31.46. M° Richelieu-Drouot Sefri-Cime - 20 place de Catalogne (14th), 01.40.48.57.00. M° Gaité Vingt Paris - 253 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.44.55.09.80. M° Concorde

Bank intellectual chic, with luxury shops and famous cafés.

7th ARRONDISSEMENT - Stroll the impeccable Champ de Mars, visit Napoleon’s tomb at Les Invalides and see the Impressionists at the Musée d’Orsay.

8th ARRONDISSEMENT - High fashion and galleries are on Avenue Montaigne and Rue St-Honoré, while the Place de la Madeleine offers gourmet food shops.

9th ARRONDISSEMENT - Find the sumptuous Opéra Garnier, and the ever-busy department stores Galeries Lafayette and Printemps on the Boulevard Haussmann.

10th ARRONDISSEMENT - Take a boat tour for a closeup look at canal locks in action. The quais de Jemmapes and Valmy are where you will find fun boutiques and restaurants.

11th- 12th ARRONDISSEMENT - The areas

PARIS

IS ONLY A CLICK AWAY

around the Bastille come alive at night with nightclubs and bars.

13th - 14th - 15th ARRONDISSEMENT - The

Tour Montparnasse is surrounded by traditional crepe restaurants while Chinatown is found near Place d’Italie.

16th - 17th ARRONDISSEMENT - The Place du Trocadéro offers a picture-perfect view of the Eiffel Tower.

18th ARRONDISSEMENT - Near the Sacré Coeur, portrait artists crowd around the Place du Tertre. Down the hill in Pigalle, watch the dancers at the Moulin Rouge.

www.parismap.fr

86 W H E R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2018

19th - 20th ARRONDISSEMENT - Paris’s

famous neighbourhood where you can pay your respects to Oscar Wilde and Jim Morrison at the Père Lachaise cemetery.

Getting to and from the Airport TO CHARLES DE GAULLE (ROISSY) AIRPORT

TO BEAUVAIS AIRPORT

Le Bus Direct-Paris Aéroport buses (08 92 35 08 20) leave daily from Montparnasse (14 rue du Commandant Mouchotte, 15th, M° Montparnasse) and Gare de Lyon (20 blvd Diderot, 12th, M° Gare de Lyon), every 30 minutes, 5:30am-10:30pm, 6:15am-10:45pm, from airport (17€ one way, 30€ round trip). These buses also leave from the Arc de Triomphe (1 ave Carnot, 17th, M° Etoile), Porte Maillot (Blvd Gouvion St Cyr, 17th, M° Porte Maillot), Trocadéro (42-46 ave du Président Wilson, 16th, M° Trocadéro) and the Eiffel Tower (18-20 rue Jean Rey, 7th, RER Champs de Mars-Tour Eiffel), every 30 minutes, 5:45am-11pm, 6am-11:15pm, from airport (17€ one way, 30€ round trip). Take RER B (9.50€) or catch the Roissybus (10€) at 11 rue Scribe, 9th, M° Opéra, every 15 minutes between 5:45am and 8pm, every 20 minutes between 7pm and 10pm and every 30 minutes between 10pm and 11pm. (01 58 76 16 16). www.aeroportsdeparis.fr

Buses leave daily from the bus parking lot on Blvd Pershing near Hotel Concorde Lafayette (17th, M° Porte Maillot). Arrive 3 hours and 15 minutes before departure time (13€). Or take TER train from Gare du Nord to Beauvais (11.50€, 1 hr 20 min), then taxi to airport.

TO ORLY AIRPORT

TRAVEL BETWEEN CHARLES DE GAULLE AIRPORT AND ORLY AIRPORT Bus Direct-Paris Aéroport buses leave daily from Charles de Gaulle (Roissy) from 6am to 10:15pm for Orly Airport/departures from Orly Airport to Charles de Gaulle Airport from 6:30am to 10:30pm. (21€ one way, 36€ round trip).

Frequency: every 20 minutes. Journey takes 45 to 60 minutes. Also RER B from Charles de Gaulle to the Antony station then the OrlyVal service to Orly Sud. OrlyVal metros leave daily from 6am-11pm from Antony and Orly Sud. Travel time between the two airports is about 1 hour and 10 minutes. www.lebusdirect.com

The RER B, direction St-Rémy, connects with Orlyval, an automatic train, at Antony. Orlyval runs every 5-7 minutes, 6am-11pm (8.70€). The RER C direction Massy-Verrières connects with a shuttle bus that goes to Orly (6.45€). Or take Orlybus outside the Denfert-Rochereau Métro stop (14th), every 20 minutes 5:35am-11pm (7.20€). Bus Direct-Paris Aéroport buses leave from the Arc de Triomphe (1 ave Carnot, 17th, M° Etoile), Trocadéro (42-46 ave du Président Wilson, 16th, M° Trocadéro), the Eiffel Tower (18-20 rue Jean Rey, 7th, RER Champs de Mars-Tour Eiffel), La Motte-Picquet (88 ave de Suffren, 15th, M° La Motte-Picquet-Grenelle) and Gare Montparnasse (Rue du commandant Mouchotte, M° Gare Montparnasse) every 20 minutes, 4:50am-10:30pm, 6am-11:40pm, from airport (12€ one way, 20€ round trip). www.aeroportsdeparis.fr

Visitors Bureau Paris has a new welcome centre for visitors located right inside the City Hall. Reception teams, documentation, information on events, tours and outings, bookings and passes are all available at the Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau welcome centre. Visitors are welcome seven days a week in the main office located at 29 rue de Rivoli (4th), M° Hôtel de Ville.

OTCP Photos © Marc Bertrand / Paris Tourist Office

Also located at the Gare du Nord (10th) www.parisinfo.com

Body Relaxation High quality massage, directly in your hotel room.

English, French, Spanish spoken.

7/7 call 06 85 81 09 05 0033 (0)6 85 81 09 05

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SERVICES

Paris Metro ◗ Paris is crossed by 14 Métro lines and five RER (express suburban) lines, all numbered and named for their final destination (terminus). Did you know that there are 300 stations that make up Paris’ metro system?

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◗ Each Métro trip requires one ticket regardless of how many transfers you make, though you must buy an extra ticket for the RER outside the city limits. Keep your ticket until you exit.

◗ Tickets are sold in all stations and in cafés (tabacs) with a ticket sign outside, single (1.90€/2€ if purchased on a bus) or by 10 (un carnet - 14.50€).

This map includes the new tramway line.

◗ “Paris Visite” passes offer unlimited travel on the Métro and buses (1day, 2-day, 3-day, 5-day).

The Métro and RER start running at 5:30am, and stop around 1 am.

◗ While the Métro is an extremely safe way to travel, watch out for pickpockets in crowded trains and stations.

For information in English, call the transportation company (RATP) directly at 08.92.68.41.14.

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My Paris

MARIE-FRANCE GREGOIRE

HEAD CONCIERGE AT LA RESERVE PARIS - HOTEL AND SPA

La Ménagerie du Jardin des Plantes

Le Gabriel

The Louvre

Paris is known around the world as the City of Light. What would you recommend visitors do in the evenings to really take in its beauty?

I would suggest they enjoy a private river cruise and enjoy a glass of champagne on board, have a glass of wine on the terrace of a brasserie or a café, and have dinner in traditional French bistros.

As a culinary capital what are three of your favourite restaurants that you would recommend our readers to try?

I’m a real foodie, and my top choices are Aux Près on the Left Bank where they propose a modern cuisine in a casual atmosphere, Chez Monsieur near the Madeleine church, a typical French bistro where they will find the best veal stew in town, and Le Gabriel, the 2 Michelin star restaurant at La Réserve for an emotional fine dining experience, and I suggest the readers taste the “Macau Artichoke” one of chef Jérôme Banctel’s signature dishes.

What are the top three monuments not to be missed while in Paris?

The top 3 will be the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre and the Sacré Coeur Basilica, even if they are very touristy they cannot miss them as each one of them is a symbol of Paris all around the world.

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If our readers wanted to spend their day shopping, would you recommend they do so on the Right Bank or the Left Bank?

I would recommend going to the Right Bank, especially in the Marais where they will find fashion designer shops and French brands, then Faubourg Saint-Honoré and Saint-Honoré for luxury shops. Otherwise the department store Le Printemps is a nice place too, if they do not have enough time for shopping.

What would be the most romantic date in the capital of romance?

It would be to dine at La Tour d’Argent, seated at a table by the window, and admiring the view of the Notre Dame Tower and the River Seine.

What would you recommend for families to discover while visiting the French capital?

As a young mum, I would recommend them to take their children to La Ménagerie du Jardin des Plantes, a zoo in the heart of Paris, then the Jardin d’Acclimatation where each Parisian parent takes their children for a stroll, also to play with sailing boats at the Tuileries Garden, visit La Cité de la Science at La Villette and finally the Palais de la Découverte. Another idea will be to do a treasure hunt in the city or a museum such as the Louvre.

Cédric Grolet’s original pastries

What are your favourite cocktail bars in the city?

The first one is Candelaria, which is hidden behind a Mexican restaurant near Place de la République, I love the cocktail La Guepe Verte, which is a mix of spicy tequila, cucumber, coriander and lime. My second favourite place is Manko Bar, which is located on the chic Avenue Montaigne where you could drink the best Pisco Sour in Paris.

Brunch and high tea are Sunday favourites, where would you suggest to our readers to enjoy the best treats?

The healthy organic-vegan brunch at L’Alcazar is the perfect way to begin a Sunday. For tea time, for a relaxing moment in a place out of time I recommend Le Loir dans la Théière especially for their tasty lemon pie with a huge meringue or the tea time at Le Meurice with the fantastic pastries of Cédric Grolet.

My Perfect Day 9am: Visit Orsay Museum 12pm: Lunch at Jaja 3pm: Shopping in the Marais followed by a relaxing moment at La Réserve Spa 9pm: Dinner at Balagan

where

®

Your Guide to the World

The Sacré-Coeur, iStock photo 2018 © instamatics; La Ménagerie du Jardin des Plantes © F-G Grandin; Cédric Grolet ® Pierre Monetta; The Louvre, iStock photo 2018 © Freezingtime; La Réserve Paris, Le Gabriel

The Sacré-Coeur

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