Where Magazine Venice Apr 2019 by Morris Media Network

VENICE CITY GUIDE ®

APRIL 2019

W W W.WHEREITALIA.COM/ VENICE

The living room of Europe Enjoy St. Mark’s Square and its beauties ALL YOU CAN DO IN THE CITY Top events and places to be ITALIAN-STYLE GIFT GUIDE Our pick of the best seasonal trends

Venice April 2019 14

INSIDER TIPS

the guide

SHOPPING

24 SHOPPING

The re-awakening of nature, with its colours, energy and joy, is the underlying theme of Pot-Pourri’s creations for spring 2019.

BAGARON C A M PA LT O MESTRE

34 DINING

Set in a magical location, far removed from Venice’s tourist track, the L’Ulivo restaurant offers traditional dishes, with a few forays into international cuisine.

GIFT GUIDE

Parco San Giuliano

Venini

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Palazzo Pisani Gritti

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CALLE

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CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

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San Salvador

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MAZ ZINI

CORTE

CALLE

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TEATRO

DEL

RAMO

SAL

LE CAL

SAN

LARG A

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Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

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CAN

NER COR

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San Giovanni Grisostomo

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

CORTE DEL

CAMPO MANIN

RNIN PATE

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

Canal Grande

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E CALL

CAF

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UZZI

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DEL

DELLA

CAPP

CALL

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

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RIO

CALLE

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Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

San Maurizio

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

ENTA

CORTE DEL REMER

RIO

San Giacomo di Rialto

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STU

TI OCA

CAL

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DEL

CALL

MAN

GNES

E CALL

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NT'A

Palazzo Grimani

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Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)

San Beneto San Luca

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

DEL PISTOR

CALLE

PRI

CAL LE

DE L

CAMPO PISANI

CALL

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San Silvestro

de ran

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Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia

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al G

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CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

Santo Stefano

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NO RAVA

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Palazzo Fortuny

Palazzo Loredan

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Santa Sofia

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CAL LE

CARAMPANE À

LE CAL

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MENTA

DELLA

TER

Sant'Angelo

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

FONDA

CALLE

RIO

Can Palazzo Giustinian Persico

Giudecca Hilton

San Gerardo

L’AG NEL LA

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Giudecca Hilton

BIAGIO

E DEL CALL

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San Cassiano

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

CORTE DEL TEATRO

San Tomà

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

LET

FAL

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SCA

FONDAMENT O BEATE GIULIANA CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

SACCA

INI

Abazia Rdella Misericordia D IA

CAMPO APONAL

RAMO

DE INC INI

DEL

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

ENTA

CAMPO SAN CASSAN

CAL

DAM

DON SAN PER

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI

BON

PON

Palazzo Querini-Dubois

CALLE BERNARDO

CALL

SANT

DEI TIOZ

CAMPO SAN POLO

Ca' Rezzonico

FON

E AL

NT AR

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

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Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

CAMPO DEI FRARI

nde Canal Gra

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CAL LE

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

San Barnaba

Santa Fosca

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

TRAG

CA’BCAL ONVLE

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione

SAN

E DEL

L’ASE

ari

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TER

rto

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SAN

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ZAT

CALL

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DE OGNISAN

NTA

BOL

TTO

S. Basilio

a de

GO RTE OPO SOT

GHE

ENTA

San Felice

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

CAL

TRA

CALL

FOMO

AME

CRO

ALE

SAN POLO

DEL

FONDAM

FOD

ll'O

MADONA

DE LA

CAL

RAMO

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CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

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TTO

E DEI

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DORSODURO

lla

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

CALL

ORE

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

CALLE

TALO

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

Basilica dei Frari

TINT

CAMPO SAN STIN

BESAG

FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

DA SAN

MEZ

DEI PUTI

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o de

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CALLE

SEB

CALLE SAN BASILIO

TERÀ

SAN

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

SPORCAE CALLE PAZIENZ DE LE

SAN

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

San Sebastiano

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

E LE

CALL

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

SCOAZZERA DE LA

LE PAZIENZ

A ENT

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

RIO

CAL

CAMPO DEI CARMINI

DAM

DON

LA TT

À D E

CAMPO SAN BOLDO

OCH

C.VE

TER

E C AN

La Maddalena

L’ISOLA

DE LA VIDA

CALLE ORSETTI

O NZAT

CALLE DELL'OLIO

Car

Santa Maria dei Carmini

RAMO

TOR

del

FON

LAR

FO de Serv N.D AN i IEL

Casino di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

San Giacomo dall'Orio CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO

TIN

min

Rio

CALLE CAZZA

CALLE SAVIO

DEL

IAT

TERA’

CANAL RIO TERA’

C. DE

DIA

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

CAL

ESI

RIO TERA’

ETTI MOR

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola

LLE

San Rocco

SSA

RIELO

CAL

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

Angelo Raffaele

E DEL PISTO

DIETRRIO TERÀ O LA CHIE

CAL

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

DEL

icordi

S.Marcuola

RUGA BELA

San Pantalon

NTA

’

LORENZ

OLO

C. SAN

CALLE CASE NUOVE

CIM

PAN

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

NIC SAN

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CAL

LAC

DAR O

NUOVO

USE

DE L’OGIO

L' ARZE

A A MART SANT

tini

CALL

Miser

CAMPO SAN ROCCO

CALLE

della

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

FON

RAM

CIM

A SAN

LE CAL

SIM

BASEG

RIO

CALLE CONTARINA

CALLE

TA DE

CALL

CALLE

MENTA

Rio

San Marcuola

RUGA VECCHIA

BAR

DEI FONTEGH

AMEN

ete

RAG

FOND

MATTA DI CA’

CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO

DEI

URATI

BAR

A OV

CERER

IZAD

Rio dei Tolen

FONDA

BIAS

LAR

NU CH

DEI

O SAL

Madonna dell'Orto

'ORT

CAMPO FON DAM D E I M O R I ENT A DEI MOR I

MENTA

FON

FONDA

ERI

CALLE

OTT

RIO

DEL REMER

CALLE DE LA LACA

ESI

ICO

EONARDO

CAMPIELLO

CAL

ENT A MIN

Rio

CALL

San Leonardo

MADON

A RIVA

LIS

CAL

PAZ CAM

Rio

Del

CAL

CALLE

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

CALLE

LUN

MIS

SAN LEONARDO

I CALLE ORSETT

TA PROC

AMEN

CAZZIO

FOND

RAM

DAM

S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO

RIO

Soranzo Cappello

MENTA

TA RIZZI

ENT

DEI AMAI

gaz

FONDA

AMEN

DAM

Palazzo FO Soranzo NDAMEN Capello TA GA

San Nicola da Tolentino

Rio

IERI

FOND

E NUO

San Simeone Profeta

PENS

CAS

CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO

CHI

DEI

HIO

Rio Nuov

ACC

TERÀ

TAB

RIO

'ANDR

VA TABAC

NUO ICA

RTE

CAM

FON

TA FABBR

SANT

CALLE

C. LAVADOR

TERÀ

CAL AMEN

PIAZZALE ROMA RIO

Where® brings you a round-up of Michelin-starred restaurants for true connoisseurs of taste FOND

People Mover Venezia

PAPADOPOLI

TRONCHETTO

. LA

Giardino Papadopoli

CROCE

LER

nde l Gra Cana

Giardino di Palazzo

NTIN

'AN

TOLE

Ferrovia

Sant'Andrea

AG SP

DE Ponte degli Scalzi

Ponte della Costituzione FONDAMENTA

RESTAURANTS

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S A N TA

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A ST

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Ferrovia

Riva de Biaso

San Simeon Piccolo

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38 MICHELIN-STARRED

P.le Roma

FON

People Mover Venezia

San Geremia

ALZ

RÀ

LLE

O ITTI

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CAT

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Santa Maria di Nazareth

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CALLE TRAGHETTO

CAMPO SAN GEREMIA

CAL

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Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo

MER

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Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia

EZIO

» MAP PAGES 46-47 FO

CAMPO SAFFA

CAMPIELLO P I AV E

FON

Museo Ebraico

Palazzo Nani

San Giobbe

Parcheggio Bus Turistici

INE

CANNAREGIO

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CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO

DAM

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People Mover Venezia

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Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite at several top hotels in Venice. LA

LLO

NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO ISO

N G IR

San Girolamo TE

Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo

CALL

CAMPIELLO DEL LIBRER

B AT

ORB I

DEI

AR CC BE LE

CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER

With its markets, osterie and artisanal 'botteghe', this is one of the most authentic sides of Venice.

Ponte dei Tre Archi

CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO

RESTAURANTS

DIR

20 DISCOVERING RIALTO

CAL LE

MUN EGH E

CAL LE

TTI

Sant'Alvise

CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E

ise

la Sen

STIAN

del

ADIN

Rio O COLE

R SEBA

37 TOP HOTEL

di Sa

nt'Alv

.A CARL

BRAG

Santa Maria delle Penitenti

Rio

FOND

VENIE

ITEN

PEN

AMEN

LAR

OSS

Parco

Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze

ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI

F O N D A M E N TA CAL

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FONDA

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CASE

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The best fashion designers for your high-end shopping.

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Take advantage of your stay In Venice, to enjoy this season’s latest offerings.

26 TOP BRANDS LL

ISOLA DELLE TRESSE

19 GIFT GUIDE

Information and tips to experience the best that Venice has to offer.

STAY IN TOUCH

The ‘Piazza’ named after St. Mark, the patron of Venice, is an open-air museum where every corner offers a surprise.

44 ESSENTIALS

Canaletto, Piazza San Marco verso est (1727-28) Oil on canvas. Washington, National Gallery of Art.

OF EUROPE

ion

COVER

14 THE LIVING ROOM

ITALIAN-STYLE GIFT GUIDE Our pick of the best seasonal trends

OF THE REGION

Several charming destinations In Veneto, infused with nature, history and art.

oS taz

ALL YOU CAN DO IN THE CITY Top events and places to be

art exhibitions and events.

cin

Enjoy St. Mark’s Square and its beauties

of Europe

22 ALL THE ALLURE

POR O room M A R GThis HE R A round-up of shows, TheTliving month's

’

8 HOT DATES

ISOLA CAMPALTO

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Discover Punta della Dogana, a renovated 17th century building hosting some of the most important exhibitions of contemporary MUR Italian art.

VENICE CITY GUIDE

APRIL 2019

40 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS

HOT DATES

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YOUR TRAVEL ING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

WELCOME TO ITALY ON THE TRAIL OF LEONARDO Dear Visitor, welcome to Italy! 2019 is the year in which Italy will be overflowing with celebrations marking the 500th anniversary of the death of Leonardo da Vinci, the man who more than any other, represents Italy throughout the world. Andrea Jarach Several cities including Milan, Florence and Rome Publisher ® will host a series of special events. The full program Where of Italian exhibitions and events honouring Leonardo throughout 2019 can be found on the pages of Where®. We invite you to discover the country that gave life to the person considered the world over as one of history’s greatest thinkers. While visiting Italy you’ll understand why only Italy could have given birth to this man whose creative mind shaped the intellectual, social, cultural, and political facets of European life from the fifteenth century onwards. Leonardo made an indelible contribution to philosophy, nature, medicine and art. All that now remains is for us to look for the traces left by the enigmatic Leonardo. You’ll find them in whatever part of Italy you’re visiting. If you happen to find them, please share your comments, with your photo, on our social media. By the end of the year, we’d like to collect a gallery of the friends of Italy. Happy hunting!

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SAVE THE DATE The graphic collection of Venice’s Gallerie dell’Accademia includes a remarkable number of drawings by Leonardo da Vinci. Starting from 17 April, the master’s 25 autograph sheets will be showcased at an exhibition marking the fifth centenary of the artist’s death. Among these, the most notable of all is a study on human proportions known as ‘The Vitruvian Man’, a universal symbol of classic perfection. Leonardo da Vinci. Man is a model of the world 17 April – 14 July Gallerie dell’Accademia www.mostraleonardo.it

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Cristina Garbini (cristina.garbini@whereitalia.com) REG. TRIB. MILANO NO. 174, 28 JUNE 2016 EDITORE: PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL  ISCRIZIONE AL ROC N.2455 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE BG

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[ SIGHTSEEING]

Top in town 2

BASILICA DI SAN MARCO This is the most important catholic church in the city. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. 1 PALAZZO DUCALE A masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, it features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doge sit not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. 2 4 W H E R E V E N I C E I A P R I L 2 01 9

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CANAL GRANDE Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Grand Canal is the main waterway of Venice. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. Almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon, the Punta della Dogana former harbour stands at an important point. Today it hosts important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection. 3 PONTE DEI SOSPIRI A Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its

name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. 4 TEATRO LA FENICE Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. 5 PONTE DI RIALTO This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Originally built during medieval times as a

MORE ON PAGE 41 SAN GIORGIO MAGGIORE This small island is part of the panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark’s square and is part of the San Marco sestiere. The church of San Giorgio Maggiore is one of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio. The monumental complex of the former Benedectine monastery (founded in the 10th century) is now home to the Cini Foundation arts centre hosting ‘Le Stanze del Vetro’ cultural project, devoted to the study and appreciation of 20th century Venetian glass art. 10 LIDO DI VENEZIA The narrow strip of land that extends for a dozen kilometres in front of Venice, dividing the Lagoon from the Adriatic sea, is an island, a town with its own history and a natural reserve, but also a jet-setters’ paradise, with luxury hotels, the Palazzo del Cinema and exclusive Art Nouveau villas. The Lido offers beach lovers 15 km of fine sandy beaches, from the lighthouse of Punta Sabbioni to the picturesque town of Cavallino. In September, it becomes the world capital of cinema. 11 THE GHETTO The Jewish ghetto of Venice, the first ever, was established in 1516. It is located in a secluded sestiere of Cannaregio. A walk through ‘calli’, ‘campi’ and ‘campielli’’ allows visitors to soak up a magical, cocoon-like atmosphere that brings to mind Shakespeare’s play the ‘Merchant of Venice’. Here you can admire ancient synagogues, the ‘tower houses’, the ‘schole’ and the workshops. 12 pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. It includes as many as 120 steps. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it, but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. 6 GALLERIE DELL’ACCADEMIA They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità and a complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. 7

SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO A rare gem of Venetian architecture, just steps from Campo San Manin: a combination of Renaissance, Gothic and Byzantine elements. The external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell of Palazzo Contarini is enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. 8 CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. 9

THE ISLANDS Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of Murano, Torcello or Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Murano is famous throughout the world for its hand-blown glass (artisanal workshops still display glassmakers at work). Torcello, birthplace of the lagoon, once a thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semi-rural island with only 17 permanent residents and two medieval churches that speak poignantly of past glories. Burano is one of the most photographed sights in the world, thanks to colourful houses reflected in its canals. It is also famous for its artisanal lace work and a particular kind of biscuit, which also resembles lace. 13 14 15 w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 5

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All about the gondola

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Why are gondolas black? Between the 15th and 16th centuries, during the height of the Serenissima’s splendour, noblemen used to decorate their gondolas with lavish ornamentation. In an attempt to abolish the competition between noble families, the Senate passed a law decreeing that all gondolas must be standardized and painted black.

a gondola - oak, elm, lime, larch, fir, cherry, walnut, and mahogany. The only parts in metal are the ‘ferro’ in the front and the ‘risso’ at the back.

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Gondolas have a flat bottom that allows them to navigate easily in shallow waters.

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It’s not easy to become a professional gondolier. Requirements include attending a special school, passing a public competition set by the ‘Ente Gondola’ and being apprenticed to a professional gondolier for 6 to 12 months. The final step includes passing a rigorous practical exam.

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Traditionally, only men were allowed to be gondoliers. The first female gondolier – or gondoliera – was licensed in 2010. Giorgia Boscolo, the 24 year old daughter of 40-year gondolier veteran, was the first to pass the requirements and obtain a license.

Until just a few decades ago, a small cabin called a felze was mounted in the middle of the gondola. It had a sliding door and windows and was even equipped with a heater in winter. It was used to protect passengers from the cold and damp and… lovers from prying eyes. Gondolas are asymmetrical. The left side is 24cm longer than the right side. This asymmetry helps counterbalance the weight of the gondolier who stands at the back. It also compensates for the tendency of the boat to sway left as the gondolier continually rows on the right.

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Every gondola is 11 metres long, 1.40 metres wide and 0.65 metres high.

−The oar is made of beech and the ‘forcola’, the stylized oarlock, is made of walnut. −Eight kinds of different wood are used to build

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Emilio Ceccato, a historic shop founded in 1902 at the foot of the Rialto Bridge, is a reference point for the official clothing and accessories worn by Venetian gondoliers. emilioceccato.com

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The logo on the gondolier’s uniform features St. Mark as the winged lion holding an open book, a symbol of peace and strength, framed by two traditional iron gondola prow ornaments.

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APRIL

HOT DATES Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates. BY ELENA PEVERATA

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APRIL APRIL CONTEMPORARY ART

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A COLLECTIVE EXHIBITION AT PUNTA DELLA DOGANA

‘Luogo e Segni’ takes its name from a painting by Carol Rama included in the MARCH DECEMBER exhibition and brings together over 100 works by thirty artists who have established a particular relationship with their urban, social, political, historic and intellectual context. The artists’ work, presented for the first time at Punta della Dogana (see page 40), interact with several works that were formerly hosted at important exhibitions at this Venetian venue. In addition the exhibit includes a rich program of events, performances and meetings open to the public.

R. H. QUAYTMAN. MORNING, CHAPTER 30, 2016. PINAULT COLLECTION. © R. H. QUAYTMAN. COURTESY THE ARTIST AND MIGUEL ABREU GALLERY, NEW YORK. PHOTO CREDIT: ADAM REICH

Luogo e Segni. Punta della Dogana. Dorsoduro, 2. www.palazzograssi.it

TATIANA TROUVÉ. THE GUARDIAN, 2018. PINAULT COLLECTION. © ADAGP TATIANA TROUVÉ, PARIS. COURTESY THE ARTIST AND KAMEL MENNOUR, PARIS/LONDON. PHOTO: FLORIAN KLEINEFENN

TATIANA TROUVÉ. THE GUARDIAN,2018. PINAULT COLLECTION © ADAGP TATIANA TROUVÉ, PARIS. COURTESY THE ARTIST AND KAMEL MENNOUR, PARIS/LONDON PHOTO: FLORIAN KLEINEFENN

FELIX GONZALEZ-TORRES. UNTITLED (7 DAYS OF BLOODWORKS), 1992. PINAULT COLLECTION. PHOTO: MATTEO DE FINA

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NEW OPENING

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EXPLORE, IMAGINE, ACT

The TBA21-Academy of the Thyssen-Bornemisza MARCH SEPTEMBER Art Contemporary Foundation has launched ‘Ocean Space’ in the deconsecrated Church of San Lorenzo, a building that has been closed to the public for over a century. The inaugural exhibition, ‘Moving Off the Land II’, features a large-scale, immersive, multi-media installation by Joan Jonas, one of the most famous artists of her generation, and a pioneer in the field of video and performance art. Joan Jonas – Moving Off the Land II. “Ocean Space”. Chiesa di San Lorenzo – Castello, 5069. www.tba21.org

ART

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INTERIOR LANDSCAPES

Ca’ Pesaro has dedicated a small but JANUARY APRIL important exhibition to Giovanni Soccol, a Venetian artist who has experimented with various media, including painting, set-design, architecture and film. The exhibition features two of his most recent series, ‘The Theatres’ and ‘Mazes of Invention’, fascinating, symbolic landscapes that reference the human soul and its innermost landscape. GIOVANNI SOCCOL. Metamorphoses of reality in myth Ca’ Pesaro, Galleria Internazionale d’Arte Moderna. capesaro.visitmuve.it

CONTEMPORARY ART

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ARTIFICIAL REALITY

▲ Luc Tuymans (MortselBelgium, 1958) is considered one of the most influential MARCH JANUARY painters on the international 2020 art scene, and has contributed 2019 to the rebirth of painting in contemporary art. His works deal with questions related to the past and to more recent history, and address subjects of our daily lives through an unfamiliar, esoteric and disturbing light. The exhibition showcases over 80 works and focuses on the artist’s paintings from 1986 to the present.

La Pelle - Luc Tuymans Palazzo Grassi. Campo San Samuele, 3231. www.palazzograssi.it PHOTO COURTESY: STUDIO LUC TUYMANS

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Labirinto 620 (2015)

APRIL ART

LA FENICE OPERA HOUSE

13 2 APRIL

www.teatrolafenice.it

SEPTEMBER

THE SOFT FORMS OF ABSTRACTION ▲ “The first thing I bought for my collection was a Jean Arp bronze. [Arp] took me to the foundry where it had been cast and I fell so in love with it that I asked to hold it in my hands. The instant I felt it I wanted to own it.” Head and Shell, the work to which Peggy Guggenheim was referring, is part of the rich body of works displayed

in a retrospective dedicated to Arp. In addition to being one of the most influential French-German artists of the 20th century, Arp was the founder of Dadaism, a pioneer of abstraction, and a reference point for generations of artists. The Nature of Arp Peggy Guggenheim Collection Palazzo Venier dei Leoni. Dorsoduro, 701. www.guggenheim-venice.it

■ OPERA 2, 3, 5, 6 April LA TRAVIATA by Giuseppe Verdi Francesco Lanzillotta, Marco Paladin (6 April) April), conductors Robert Carsen, director Claudio Marino Moretti Moretti, chorus master 4, 7 April OTELLO by Giuseppe Verdi Myung-Whun Chung, conductor Francesco Micheli, director Claudio Marino Moretti, chorus master Diana D’Alessio, chorus master ‘Piccoli Cantori Veneziani’ 23, 27, 30 April and 2, 5 May DORILLA IN TEMPE by Antonio Vivaldi at Malibran Theatre Diego Fasolis, conductor Fabio Ceresa, director Massimo Checchetto, sets Giuseppe Palella, costumes ■ CONCERTS 12, 14 April YURI TEMIRKANOV Music by Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky Yuri Temirkanov, conductor Sergei Dogadin, violin 19 April DIEGO FASOLIS Music by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart Diego Fasolis, conductor Claudio Marino Moretti, chorus master ■ CHAMBER MUSIC - MUSIKÁMERA 10 April Music by Johann Sebastian Bach, Ludwig van Beethoven and Robert Schumann Martha Argerich, piano Quartetto Quiroga, ensemble

EXHIBITION

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A CENTURY OF LIGHTS SHINES IN THE LAGOON

▲ Canaletto and Giambattista Tiepolo are the stars of the blockbuster exhibition FEBRUARY JUNE at Palazzo Ducale dedicated to the 18th century in Venice: a century renowned for its extraordinary and innovative artistic activity. The works of both masters will be showcased alongside those of other illustrious artists including Pietro Longhi, Francesco Guardi, Giambattista Piranesi, Giandomenico Tiepolo and Antonio Canova. The exhibition will also pay tribute to the best of 18th-century Venetian decorative arts with a display of beautiful glass art, ceramics and gold jewelry.

Canaletto and Venice. Palazzo Ducale, Appartamento del Doge. Piazza San Marco, 1. palazzoducale.visitmuve.it © CANALETTO, IL MOLO VERSO EST CON LA COLONNA DI S. MARCO MILANO, RACCOLTE D’ARTE ANTICA E PINACOTECA DEL CASTELLO SFORZESCO

18 April at Sale Apollinee Music by Johannes Brahms and Ludwig van Beethoven Giulia Attili, cello Lavinia Bertulli, piano 26, 27 April at Sale Apollinee Music by Felix Mendelssohn, Luigi Boccherini and Mario Castelnuovo-Tedesco Giampaolo Bandini, guitar Quartetto Nous, emsemble The Teatro La Fenice is usually open for tours daily from 9.30am to 6pm, although variations may occur in the schedule for artistic or technical reasons. www.festfenice.com

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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES ELECTRONIC MUSIC

6 MUSIC

VIRTUOSO ENCOUNTERS

▲ For the 2019 Musikàmera concert APRIL season, Teatro La Fenice’s magnificent Sala Grande will host an unmissable performance by Martha Argerich. Considered one of the world’s most renowned concert pianists, Agerich will be joined by the Cuarteto Quiroga, one of the most unique and dynamic quartets of its generation. The program will include music by Bach, Beethoven and Schumann.

WAVES OF THE NORTH

Nørdic Frames, the international festival of APRIL contemporary and electronic music, presents Robert Lippok, an avant-garde audiovisual artist, composer, stage designer and keyboard player: one of the most influential musicians on Berlin’s experimental and electronic music scene. His live audio-visual performances feature a mixture of composition and improvisation, offering audiences unique, unrepeatable experiences. Robert Lippok live Teatrino di Palazzo Grassi. San Samuele, 3231. www.venetojazz.com

LIVE MUSIC

MUSICAL APERITIVO

▲ During Happy Hour, guests will be treated to APRIL live music and finger food at one of Veneto Jazz’s ‘Live Music Aperitif’ events, hosted in the lounge of the Splendid Venice Hotel. Ty Le Blanc, an exuberant Texan vocalist, who calls Venice her second home, will interpret the great classics of blues and soul, with a repertoire ranging from Etta James, to Nina Simone, Ray Charles and Marvin Gaye. Le Blanc will be joined by Michele Bonivento on the piano, and Alvise Seggi on the double bass.

Ty Le Blanc Splendid Venice Venezia. San Marco Mercerie, 760. www.venetojazz.com www.starhotelscollezione.com

Martha Argerich/Cuarteto Quiroga Teatro La Fenice. San Marco, 1965. www.teatrolafenice.it www.musikamera.org

ANNUAL EVENTS IN VENICE APRIL Venice Night Trail (13 April) > Urban trail run 16 km through the historical centre of Venice. Festa di San Marco/Feast of St. Mark (25 April) > In addition to being a national holiday, on 25 April Venetians also celebrate Saint Mark’s day. MAY Biennale Arte 2019 (11 May-24 November, Arsenale and Giardini) > The 58th International Art Exhibition, titled ‘May You Live In Interesting Times’ is organized by La Biennale di Venezia and curated by Ralph Rugoff, currently the director of the Hayward Gallery in London. JUNE Festa della Sensa or Ascension festivity (1-2 June) > A masked parade in St. Mark’s Square to celebrate the Serenissima and the ‘Sposalizio del Mare’ (Marriage of the Sea) ceremony Vogalonga (9 June) > 45th edition of the 30 km rowing marathon from the Northern lagoon to the islands: a colourful event open to both professionals and amateurs. 12 W H E R E V E N I C E I A P R I L 2 01 9

Feast of San Piero de Casteo (26-30 June) JULY Festa del Redentore / Feast of the Redeemer (20-21 July) > One of Venice’s best loved festivals, the event features a parade of boats in the Giudecca and fireworks.

NOVEMBER Teatro La Fenice Concert Season Opening (beginning of November) Opera and Ballet Season Opening (End of November)

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER Biennale Cinema 2019 - International Film Festival (28 August-7 September) > 76th Venice Film Festival organized by La Biennale di Venezia.

Festa della Salute (21 November) > A popular religious feast day with a temporary bridge crossing over the Grand Canal set up. DECEMBER Christmas Concert at St. Mark’s basilica (16-17 December) > The event is organized by Teatro La Fenice with the Cappella Marciana Soloists.

SEPTEMBER Regata Storica / Historic Regatta (1 September) > One of Venice’s foremost rowing competitions.

JANUARY 2020 New Year’s Eve Concert (1 January 2020) >17th edition of the traditional New Year’s Concert.

The Venice Glass Week (7-15 September) An international festival dedicated to the art of glass-making, with a focus on creations made in Murano. OCTOBER Venice Fashion Week (17-26 October)

Regata delle Befane (6 January 2020) > A costumed race between members of the Bucintoro, the oldest rowing company in Venice.

Venice Marathon (27 October)

FEBRUARY 2020 Carnival of Venice (8-25 February2020) > Shows, masked parades and music in ‘calli’, squares and palaces.

SAN MARCO, VENEZIA Pal a zzo Regina Vittoria WOMAN R amo dei Fuseri 1810 Tel. +39 041 2410990 MAN R amo dei Fuseri 1811/m Tel. +39 041 5221332 HOME Frezzeria 1820/m Tel. +39 041 5201996 FA SHION | HOME | LIFEST YLE

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The living room of Europe

St. Mark, the patron of Venice, is commemorated on 25 April. St. Mark’s Square, the ‘Piazza’ named after the saint is the symbol of Venice, an openair museum, where every corner, featuring architectural treasures, must-visit museum, artisans’ botteghe’ and historic cafés, offers a surprise. BY CHIARA ZACCARELLI

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iberation Day is a national holiday in Italy that is celebrated annually on 25 April. It marks the fall of Mussolini's Italian Social Republic and the end of the Nazi occupation in Italy. However, for Venetians, this holiday has an even more significant meaning. On this day, the people of Venice celebrate St. Mark, the city’s patron saint. In addition to the famous square, the Basilica of San Marco is also named after him. An open-air museum in its own right, St. Mark’s Square measures 170 meters in length, and is known as the ‘Living Room of Europe’. It is lined with so many museums, monuments and prestigious buildings that you’ll need more than one day to really explore it. Here, we have prepared a practical guide to help you enjoy this iconic place to the fullest, without missing anything important.

THE BASILICA AND ST. MARK’S BELL TOWER Our tour starts from the Basilica of San Marco, which overlooks the square, and features a marble façade dating back to the 18th century, adorned with mosaics, Gothicstyle statues, bas-reliefs and lavish spoils that give it its polychrome appearance. Inside, don’t miss its magnificent golden mosaics and marble floors, which reflect the patterns of classic iconography, interspersed with Byzantine influences. If you want to enjoy a breathtaking view, ascend to the top of St. Mark’s bell tower, one of the most important symbols of the city of Venice. Measuring 100 meters in height, the tower soars majestically over the square. Its top is decorated with a revolving golden angel that moves in the wind. The bell tower’s loggia offers a commanding view over the

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collection of antiques, donated by Venetian collectors, Roman busts, reliefs, engravings, ceramics, ivories, gems and a coin collection. Located in the adjacent Piazzetta San Marco, the Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana, designed to create a triumphal entry to the city from the lagoon, is one of the largest and most prestigious libraries in Italy. Lastly, the amazing Museo Civico di Palazzo Ducale, one of the symbols of the city and a masterpiece of Venetian Gothic architecture, is situated inside the magnificent Ducal Palace, formerly the residence of the Doges and the seat of the government. While you’re here, you can also visit the exquisite rooms of the Doge’s Apartment, the Institutional Rooms, the Armoury and the prisons (palazzoducale.visitmuve.it).

A SMALL MODERN MUSEUM

Grancaffè Quadri

Visitors will be surprised to know that there’s actually a fifth, small museum in St. Mark’s Square, the Olivetti Store located under the arcades of the Procuratie Vecchie. This building, renovated by Venetian architect Carlo Scarpa in 1957, is a brilliant and poetic example of form and function, featuring a beautiful central staircase that seems to float in space. The genius of the architect is reflected in the choice of the store’s decorative elements: marble flooring, Murano glass, African Teak ledges and cut crystal display cases. Other highlights include a permanent exhibition of the brand’s historic typewriters and calculators that tell the story of visionary entrepreneur Adriano Olivetti, a key figure in the history of Italy’s economic boom during the post-war period (www.negoziolivetti.it).

Museo Correr

EDITOR’S TIP If you’re planning to visit more than one museum in St. Mark’s Square, we suggest that rather than purchasing individual entry tickets, you opt for a single pass. The pass costs €20 (13€ reduced), and permits free access to the Ducal Palace and the combined itinerary of the Museo Correr, the Museo Archeologico Nazionale and the Sale Monumentali of the Biblioteca Marciana. The pass is valid for 3 months and entitles you to one free entrance to the Ducal Palace and the combined itinerary. correr.visitmuve.it/ it/pianifica-la-tua-visita/biglietti

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city and the lagoon, offering a magnificent 360° view. It is here that Venice’s annual Carnival event kicks off with the ‘flight of the angel’, when a young girl wearing a traditional costume ‘flies’ from the top of St. Mark’s bell tower to a stage on the opposite side of the square.

TRACES OF HISTORY There are four museums in St. Mark’s Square, all of which are worth visiting. The Correr Museum, headquartered in the old Royal Palace, is one of the most important and representative museums in the city of Venice. It comprises the Napoleonic Wing and the Procuratie Nuove and houses a vast collection of coins, paintings, furniture and sculptures (correr.visitmuve.it). Located in the Procuratie Nuove, the National Archaeological Museum boasts a

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BUT WHAT ARE THE PROCURATIE? The Procuratie are the buildings surrounding the three sides of St. Mark’s Square. The Procuratie Vecchie to the north were the official headquarters of the Procurators of San Marco during the days of the Serenissima. The arcaded ground floor has numerous shops and restaurants, while the upper floors are used for offices. The square is closed by the so-called Napoleonic Wing, which connects the Procuratie Vecchie to the Procuratie Nuove. The latter, located on the south side of the Square, were designed by Jacopo Sansovino in the 16th century. Their arcaded ground floor also hosts various locales.

PH © OSVALDO DI PIETRANTONIO

IT’S SHOPPING TIME The arcades and alleys surrounding St. Mark’s Square are packed with artisans’ ‘botteghe’ where you can purchase all kinds of Venetian artefacts including glass, masks, stationery and souvenirs. Among these, an absolute must is a visit to the Antonia Sautter atelier where you’ll find all types of masks and couture and period costumes (www.antoniasautter.it); Venini, where the art of glassmaking gives life to exquisite vases, chandeliers and accessories for the home (www. venini.com), and The Merchant of Venice, the kingdom of signature fragrances (www.themerchantofvenice.com).

Antonia Sautter

Venini

The Merchant of Venice 16 W H E R E V E N I C E I A P R I L 2 01 9

VENETIAN TRADITIONS THE ROSE BUD On 25 April, Venetian men traditionally give a single rosebud to the women they love. According to legend, Maria, the daughter of a doge, loved and was loved by Tancredi, a young man of humble origins. Since her father strongly disapproved of their relationship, Maria asked Tancredi to fight a distant war against the Turks, to elevate his status in the eyes of her father. One day, as he fell to the ground after being mortally wounded in battle, he managed to pluck a rose from a nearby rosebush for his loved one. A companion, named Orlando, was entrusted with returning the bloodstained rose to his lover as a token of his eternal love. On 25 April, Maria was found dead in her bed with the rosebud on her breast.

PH © GRAN CAFFÈ LAVENA

TASTING EXPERIENCE

PH © CAFFÈ FLORIAN

Gran Caffè Lavena

A CAFÉ IN HISTORY Three of Venice’s most historic and famous cafés, including Florian, Quadri and Lavena, hold place of pride in St. Mark’s Square. Over the centuries, noblewomen, writers, poets, musicians and movie stars have sat at their tables. During the warmer months, you can sit at their outdoor tables and enjoy watching tourists, locals and pigeons while enjoying a Spritz, a typical Venetian aperitivo made with Aperol and white wine. The atmosphere is further enhanced by the soothing music emanating from the small orchestras that are always present, adding to the magical allure of St. Mark’s Square. In order to avoid any unpleasant surprises, remember that in Venice, everything comes with a pretty hefty price tag, so don’t be shocked when you get the bill.

Caffè Florian w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 17

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WHERE NOW | SHOPPING

GIFT

GUIDE

TOD'S

Elegant and versatile, Tod’s small ‘Joy Bag’ in hammered leather has a double handle, a front flap pocket, a back pocket with a magnetic closure and a removable strap. The bag is lined with fabric and features 2 internal zipped pockets and a slip pocket. www.tods.com

This month, spending a little time in search of a new accessory, a jewel or a special gift, becomes even more pleasurable. Take advantage of a stroll through the picturesque ‘calli’ of Venice to treat yourself to some alluring detail of style. Where guarantees that you won’t leave empty-handed!

THE MERCHANT OF VENICE

Rosa Moceniga is a delicate, sensual eau de parfum which takes its name from a rare variety of Chinese rose, imported from France by Lucia Mocenigo. The fragrance is enhanced with notes of saffron, Indonesian patchouli, crystal amber and white cedar extract. www. themerchantofvenice.com

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

▲ GIORGIO ARMANI Made from premium suede leather, this men’s sneaker is defined by unique craftsmanship on the crepe rubber sole and ‘Giorgio Armani’ lettering on the back. The upper is attached to a lightweight insole for a flexible, comfortable fit. A sporty, iconic model that never goes out of fashion. www.armani.com

Crafted from supple leather, this belt from the new ‘Gancini’ collection is adorned with a jacquard fabric panel featuring a two-tone gancini pattern. The metal buckle is finished in antique palladium for a touch of added chic. The belt is fully adjustable to ensure a perfect fit. www.ferragamo.com VENINI

The ‘Unity’ creations signed by designer Marc Thorpe combine Venini’s glassmaking art with artisanal Senegalese weaving techniques. A handmade glass bowl, available in either grape or amethyst, rests on a metal base wrapped with hand-woven polyethylene threads. www.venini.com

POMELLATO

The ‘Nudo’ ring in Obsidian winks with opaque mystery in petit, classic or maxisize. Obsidian’s nocturnal beauty rests atop a rosegold shank and titanium cullet, surrounded by black diamonds on its band www.pomellato.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 19

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when crossing it and because the city’s mint was located at its easternmost end. In 1250, its wooden piles were replaced by a mobile structure and its name was changed to the Rialto bridge. A dark period followed. In fact, during this time, the bridge collapsed and was damaged several times. It was only in 1588 that the Senate of the Serenissima decided to announce a competition to finally rebuild a stone bridge. Numerous renowned architects submitted their projects, including Sansovino, Vignola and Palladio. However the daring but scenically impact-making design submitted by the aptly named Antonio da Ponte was chosen. His bridge consisted of a single 22 meter stone arch span, supported by a broad rectangular deck carrying two arcades of shops and ‘botteghe’ fronting on three roadways. Legend has it that da Ponte was visited by Satan himself who, in exchange for his help, asked the architect to pledge the soul of the first person crossing the bridge to him. The architect thought that he would trick Satan by having a cock cross the bridge for the first time. However, on learning about this deception, Satan vindicated himself by tricking da Ponte’s pregnant wife into crossing the bridge. Her child was stillborn, and according to legend, its soul wandered haplessly, for years, on the Rialto bridge, until a gondolier finally helped it to cross over to the other side.

Even the famous street market boasts a storied past. In fact, historic documents testify to its presence way back in 1097 when it was much larger than its current counterpart and sold exotic goods and spices and precious fabrics. THE FAMOUS MARKET. Currently Venice’s market par excellence, it is divided into the Pescaria, where fish caught in the lagoon are sold, and the Erbaria, whose vendors sell only the freshest, seasonal fruit and vegetables. Although a visit to this market means elbowing one’s way among throngs of Venetian shoppers, the market nevertheless boasts two gems of historic and artistic interest: a loggia dating back to 1907 featuring a blaze of maritime and symbolic decorations, including a number of esoteric elements that are mixed in with the fish, lobsters and octopi sculpted on the capitals of its colonnade. More attentive visitors will also notice a marble plaque embedded in one of its red brick facades,

which shows regulations set centuries ago for minimum allowable sizes for lagoon fish. FOR SHOPPING ADDICTS. However, Rialto also means shopping. While strolling through the ‘rione’s’ tiny streets or when crossing its bridge, you’ll come across several unusual shops that are imbued with the atmosphere of a bygone era. These include antique shops, artisans’ workshops, old book binding shops where books are still bound according to time-honoured tradition, and jewelry stores selling original creations made from Murano glass beads. On the other hand, those in search of an amazing experience, should head to the old post office which now houses the T Fondaco dei Tedeschi by DFS, a lavish, high-end department store and a magnificent feat of architecture that has been updated to brilliantly balance the old with new. The building boasts a marvelous terrace offering visitors a 360-degree view over Venice.

A HUB OF COMMERCE The Rialto Bridge is the dividing line between the districts of San Marco and San Polo. It is lined on both sides by shops, and includes 120 steps. Right, the Rialto Market, a one-of-akind place crowded with Venetians and tourists. Below, the Erbaria market selling fruit and vegetables, and the Pescaria (fish market).

w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 21

WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN

All the allure of the region Veneto is one of the most visited regions in Europe and offers several attractive destinations for a fun, relaxing out-of-town experience. The cities are well connected by train but as an alternative you can either hire a car or a car with a driver. BY ROMENA BRUGNEROTTO

Half an hour by train from Venice Treviso: the city is a small gem, which can be visited entirely on foot. Lying at the heart of the city, just a stone’s throw from the station, Piazza dei Signori is the ideal spot to stop and enjoy either a local Proseccobased aperitivo, or a light lunch. The area’s neighbouring streets are packed with elegant shops, cut across by pretty canals offering lots of fabulous photo opportunities. Both the city’s Casa dei Carraresi and the Santa Caterina museum host important art exhibitions. While in the area, make sure to sample radicchio di Treviso, a homegrown specialty. A go-to destination for a snack is the Osteria dalla Gigia, Via Barberia, 20, whose signature dish is ‘mozzarelle in carrozza’, a type of fried cheese sandwich. Padua: home to one of the oldest universities in the world, Padua is a city deserving an entire day’s sightseeing. Among the list of things to do, top sights include the Scrovegni Chapel, Giotto’s masterpiece, but also the famous Church of Sant’Antonio, a pilgrimage site and the burial place of St Anthony of Padua (1193–1231). The city is also home to the oldest botanical garden in the world, planted in 1545 by Padua’s

Vicenza, Teatro Olimpico

Padua, Scrovegni Chapel 22 W H E R E V E N I C E I A P R I L 2 019

A UNIQUE BLEND OF HISTORY AND ART Top. One of Vicenza’s artistic marvels, the Teatro Olimpico is included in UNESCO’s list of World Heritage Sites. Left, Giotto’s magnificent frescoes, covering the walls of Padua's Scrovegni Chapel, narrate events in the lives of the Virgin Mary and Christ. Above, Piazza delle Erbe in Verona was the town's forum during the time of the Roman Empire. Right, the beautiful castle of Miramare (10 km from Trieste) offers a charming panoramic view.

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Verona, Piazza delle Erbe

University medical faculty to study the medicinal properties of rare plants. A new area dedicated to bio-diversity was also recently added, opening up new prospects for the future. In terms of gastronomy, local specialties include a variety of cold cuts and the city’s signature ‘gallina padovana’ which you can taste at the Ai Navigli restaurant in Via Riviera Tiso, 11. La Folperia in Piazza della Frutta is an absolute must for an aperitivo. It’s a simple kiosk selling local fish specialties and the king of street food par excellence. One hour by train from Venice Vicenza: if you’re a fan of Renaissance architecture, take a train and head to Vicenza. Its main square houses the famous basilica designed by Andrea Palladio, the most important architect of the High Renaissance. The entire life of the city revolves around the Basilica. Palladio also designed the city’s renowned Teatro Olimpico. This Renaissance marvel is well worth a visit or, failing that, a ticket to one of the many live shows performed here. Stop at a restaurant and sample the city’s famous ‘Baccalà alla Vicentina’ (Vicenza-style codfish) served with polenta. The people of Vicenza are so proud of this dish that the city even has a confraternity dedicated to keeping the 500-year-old recipe of ‘Baccalà alla Vicentina’ alive, and, believe it or not, there is also a codfish ice cream flavour. The go-to address is El Coq in Piazza dei Signori, where the chef enjoys creating innovative dishes using this important ingredient of Veneto cuisine.

TOWARDS VIENNA WITH THE NEW “SPIRIT OF VENICE” While air travel to North America has increased (in May 2017 American Airlines inaugurated a direct route from Venice to Chicago), rail travel to Europe has also grown. One of the best ways to enjoy spectacular panoramic Alpine views is by train. For the past few months it’s been possible to travel from Venice to Austria by train with two daily connections, thanks to OBB, an Austrian railway company. The new Railjet “The Spirit of Venice” connects Venice to the Austrian cities of Villach, Klagenfurt and Vienna safely and comfortably. Amenities include on board Wi-Fi, and there's a top notch dining car for first class passengers. The trip to Vienna lasts eight hours and you can enjoy the changing scenery from the Italian plains to the Austrian Alps. www.obb-italia.com

Trieste, Castle of Miramare Verona: Founded by the Romans in the 1st century AD, the city of Verona is dotted with pretty palazzi, elegant squares and medieval gems. Best-known as home to star-crossed lovers Romeo and Juliet, its major attractions include the Arena, an architectural remnant of the Roman era, and a venue for the city’s annual summer opera festival, the beautiful Castelvecchio Museum and piazza delle Erbe. There are so many churches to see that you’ll be spoilt for choice. No visit would be complete without stopping to see San Zeno, a masterpiece of Italian Romanesque style. When you’re tired of sightseeing, indulge in a break at one of the city’s small ‘osterie’ for a glass of Valpolicella, the famous wine produced just a short distance from here. Before leaving Verona, make sure to head to pasticceria Flego in Piazza Borsari 9, to purchase a box of ‘Baci di Giulietta’, the city’s signature sweet treats made from almonds and walnuts. Bassano del Grappa: this picturesque town lying at the foot of the mountains is renowned for its namesake spirit, grappa. Its Palladian covered wooden bridge over the River Brenta is a highlight of the small historic centre. Also known at the Ponte Vecchio or the Ponte Alpini, it serves as a reminder of the events that took place during World War I. The city is also famous for its centuries-old production of handcrafted ceramics that you can purchase at one of the town’s many shops. While in the area, make sure to book a guided tour of one of the distilleries that produce grappa, Italy’s ‘acquavite’ of choice. One of the most famous is Poli. Located in via Gamba 6, this renowned distillery also boasts a must-visit Grappa Museum. At the end of the tour, guests will be treated to a tasting session, accompanied by sweet or savoury snacks. Opened in

December 2010, and located at number 8 Salita Ferracina, Palazzo delle Misture is the ideal spot for a pre or post-dinner drink. In addition to an excellent selection of local wines, the venue also features an entire room dedicated to absinth, where you can taste historical brands dating from the late 1800s to the early 1900s. Two hours by train from Venice Trieste: just a two-hour train ride from Venice, the city of Trieste is a must-visit destination. The port and its architecture, reminiscent of central European cities, blend to create an elegant, captivating backdrop. When visiting Trieste you can remain in the centre and stroll through its picturesque alleys, or head to Miramare, the beautiful castle built in the late 1850s by Archiduke Maximilian, brother of Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph. Sitting on a rocky outcrop overlooking the sea, both the castle – whose interior décor has remained intact – and the park are well worth a visit. A ride on the Opicina tram which connects the centre of Trieste with the village of Villa Opicina in the hills above is definitely unmissable. Inaugurated in 1902, the 'tram de Opicina' (as it’s known in the local dialect) climbs up five kilometers, including 800 meters on a 26% incline, across splendid landscapes and with wonderful views of the gulf. This is a unique opportunity to take some wonderful photos. Trieste is the Mediterranean's main coffee port, and it's also a hub for the coffee industry. In fact, the city is home to Illy, one of the world’s best-known coffee brands. Countless locales bear witness to the city’s history, and, if you head to Piazza Unità d’Italia you can choose your favourite. The best place for an aperitivo is Urbanis, in Piazza della Borsa 15. In addition to other symbols, the venue’s mosaic flooring features the Bora, the wind that blows over Trieste. w w w.wh e re tr ave l e r. com 23

SHOPPING R

.C E T R R A V E L E

The awakening of spring at Pot-Pourrì The re-awakening of nature, with its colours, energy and joy, is the underlying theme of Pot-Pourri’s creations for Spring 2019. A unique blend of innovative pairings and contemporary allure. By Chiara Zaccarelli

ocated inside a historic palazzo overlooking one of Venice’s most romantic canals, just steps from St. Mark’s square, the Pot-Pourrì boutique is an enchanted treasure trove where shoppers come simply to browse, and then leave wearing a totally new look. This dream-like space, which can be directly accessed from the canal via a gondola or water taxi, includes a women’s boutique, a men’s boutique and a space dedicated to lifestyle and homeware that reflect the love of colour and sophisticated creativity of its owner Marina and her daughters. In addition to offering a selection of the best brands of Italian and foreign clothing and accessories, Pot-Pourrì has developed its own 24 W H E R E V E N I C E I A P R I L 2 01 9

collection of artisanal, Made in Italy items that includes outerwear, trousers, knitwear and accessories. For Spring 2019, Pot-Pourrì explores Pantone’s shades for the season, and pays tribute to the reawakening of nature with vibrant, exuberant hues. The desire to face the future with energy and optimism is expressed through the use of colour, whose palette and nuances are inspired by nature. The result is an eclectic, contemporary wardrobe based on the search for unexpected pairings, reflecting our innate need for faith, joy and playfulness. >> www.potpourri.it Palazzo Regina Vittoria. San Marco, 1810 (Ramo dei Fuseri). T: 041 2410990. Map E4

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/VENICE

The

Guidelines ACCESSORIES

This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. MAP LOCATIONS Note that references in bold at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 46-47. TRANSPORTReferences to vaporetto lines and stops are based on departure from the Santa Lucia railway station. SHOPPING Shopping hours are generally from

10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Venice) and on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge. Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.

TAXFREE SHOPPING

By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund. UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 e-mail: europe@unionpayintl.com

UnionPay is an international bankcard association based in China and serves the world’s largest cardholder base. With more than 7 billion cards issued worldwide, UnionPay has become the mayor payment method of the outbound Chinese. By March 2018, almost 600,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 7,000 merchants are located in Venice. This allows hundred of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as DFS Group, Coin Excelsior, Airport dutyfree shops, to provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders. DINING

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. SIGHTSEEING

Information about our selection of museums and monuments is checked as carefully as possible. However, opening hours and site accessibility are subject to change depending on the time of the year. Ask your concierge.

Francis Model

Stylish, high-quality bags with a focus on colour. Established in 1965, this small artisanal ‘bottega’ has always remained faithful to the diktats of Made in Italy craftsmanship. Located just steps from the Rialto Bridge, Ruggero De Zorzi devotes himself to his craft with pride and passion. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.francismodel.it. San Polo, 773/A (Ruga Ravano). T: 041 5212889. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato stop). Map E3

Giuliana Longo A milliner boasting a longstanding family tradition dating back to the early 20th century, Giuliana Longo’s fame has spread far beyond the boundaries of Venice, thanks to her unique Venetian aesthetic. Her shop is the dream hatcupboard of any true sartorialist, amidst old-world furnishings, original panama hats and handmade headgear. PASSION TIP The only shop in town where you can find authentic gondolier’s hats. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.giulianalongo. com. San Marco, 4813 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 5226454. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Macrì This shoe boutique in San Marco - its other branch is located in Frezzeria - has been a reference point for discerning Venetians since the 1970s. Its owner Jacopo Nobili sells sought-after, classic men and women’s shoes, distinguished by their Made in Italy aesthetic. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 420 (Calle Larga). T: 041 522 9956. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco stop) Map F4• • Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco Frezzeria, 1583. T: 041 522 8997.

Michele De Fina Highly select leather shoes, its owner oversees each stage of the working process from the cutting of the leather to the end creation. Craftsmanship and Italian style are the hallmark traits of Venetian shoe designer Michele De Fina. Open daily 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm. www.micheledefina.com. San Marco, 318/A (Calle della Canonica). T: 041 3030189. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop or San Zaccaria stop).

Map F4

CLOTHING MEN & WOMEN Al Duca d'Aosta Originally established in Venice in 1902, Al Duca d’Aosta now boasts stores in six cities across the Triveneto region: Venice, Padua, Verona, Mestre, Treviso and Udine. The historical four-storey Venice location features over 100 top fashion brands for men and women, carefully selected to offer its clientele quality and elegance. These include casual men’s lines for a sporty-chic look, sartorial designs for savvy-style gentlemen and women’s wear, featuring the iconic accessories of the latest collections, including small leather goods and bijoux, for a glamorous, cosmopolitan aesthetic. The store offers numerous special facilities and services for its customers, including a Personal Shopping service and Tax Free Shopping. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.alducadaosta.com. San Marco, 4945. T: 041 5220733. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Tax Free Refund Guide 1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods and services, and is part of the European Union’s value added tax system. 2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: • you are a non-EU resident; • the goods purchased are intended for personal or family use only and are carried in your luggage; • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds 154,94 Euro (VAT included); • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice should include a description of the goods purchased, your personal information as well as the details of your passport or any other equivalent document; • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the third month after the month that you bought them; • several specific customs formalities are complied with; • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer within four months after the purchase was made. 4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must be shown at the customs exit point when leaving EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs BEFORE checking in). 5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice must be returned within four months from the date when the document was issued. 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax Free” sign in its window). 7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating the passenger from having to return the invoice to the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at major international airports or main border crossings. Most major department stores have Tax Free Refund offices. 8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply the payment of a small administrative sum which is directly deducted from the amount of VAT refunded to the traveller. 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund within a reasonable period of time, he or she should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the aforementioned companies. 10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded directly by customs offices. Source: www.adm.gov.it/portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund

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[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]

Top Brands DEPARTMENT STORES T FONDACO DEI TEDESCHI BY DFS Tfondaco.com Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge) T: 041 3142000. Map F3

ALBERTA FERRETTIwww.albertaferretti.com San Marco, 295/296. T: 041 5220772. Map F4 BALENCIAGAwww.balenciaga.com San Marco, 1310 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5230806. Map F5 BALLYwww.bally.it San Marco, 4919-4921 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5285839. Map F4

DOLCE&GABBANAwww.dolcegabbana.it San Marco, 2188 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5209991. Map F4 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA www.zegna.com Bocca di Piazza San Marco, 1241. T: 041 5221204. Map F4 ETROwww.etro.com. San Marco, 1340 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5232599. Map F5 FENDIwww.fendi.com. San Marco, 1582 (Calle Frezzaria). T: 041 2778532. Map F4 FRATELLI ROSSETTI www.fratellirossetti.com Campo San Salvador, 4800. T: 041 5230571. Map F4 • San Marco, 1477 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5220819. Map F5

The ‘Ca’ d’Oro’ pendant by SALVADORI DIAMOND ATELIER reinterprets the interplay of the solids and voids of the fretwork decorating this Venetian Gothic palazzo overlooking the Grand Canal.

PRADAwww.prada.com San Marco, 1464/1469 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5283966. Map F5

BOGGI MILANOwww.boggi.com San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Map E4 • Stazione Santa Lucia (Fondamenta S. Lucia, 20). T: 041 5246445. Map C3

FURLAwww.furla.com. San Marco, 4833 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 2770460.Map F4

ROBERTO CAVALLI www.robertocavalli.com San Marco, 1314. T: 041 5299020. Map F5

BORSALINOwww.borsalino.com San Marco, 4822 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 2411945. Map F4

GIORGIO ARMANIwww.armani.com San Marco, 2282 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 8503048. Map F4

ROCCA 1794 www.rocca1794.com Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 041 5201014. Map F4

BOTTEGA VENETAwww.bottegaveneta. com San Marco, 1473 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5228489. Map F5

GUCCIwww.gucci.com San Marco, 2102 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413968. Map F4 • San Marco, 258 (Mercerie dell'Orologio). T: 041 5229119. Map E5

SAINT LAURENTwww.ysl.com San Marco, 1302. T: 041 5202211. Map F4 • San marco 2217 (Calle Larga XXII marzo). T: 041 8923010. Map F5

BULGARIwww.bulgari.com. www.bulgari.com. San Marco, 1494. T: 041 2410553. Map F4 BURBERRYit.burberry.com San Marco, 2308 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 240291. Map E5 CARTIERwww.cartier.it San Marco, 1474/1475 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Map F4 CELINEwww.celine.com San Marco, 1312 a/b (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201898. Map F4 CHANEL www.chanel.com San Marco, 2070 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2405399. Map E5 CHANEL FRAGRANCE & BEAUTY San Marco, 1254/1300. T: 041 2708699. Map F3 CHURCH’Swww.church-footwear.com San Marco, 1316 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2410147. Map F5 CLARKS— www.clarks.eu. Cannaregio, 5586 (Salizada S. Canzian). Map F3 T: 041 5229946. DAMIANI www.damiani.com San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Map F5 DIOR www.dior.com San Marco, 1255 (Calle Larga de l’Ascension). T: 041 2411636. Map F5 26 W H E R E V E N I C E I A P R I L 2 01 9

HERMÈSitaly.hermes.com San Marco, 1292 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2410715. Map F5 HUGO BOSSwww.hugoboss.com Piazza San Marco, 80 (Bacino Orseolo 1218). T: 041 5224378. Map F4 JIMMY CHOOwww.jimmychoo.com San Marco, 1289. T: 041 5224510. Map F4 LORO PIANAwww.loropiana.com San Marco Ascensione, 1301. T: 041 2770695.Map F5 LOUIS VUITTON www.louisvuitton.com. Piazza San Marco, 1345. T: 041 5224500. Map F5 MAX MARAit.maxmara.com San Marco, 5033 (Rialto). T: 041 5226688. Map F5 MISSONI www.missoni.com San Marco, 1318/A (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5205733. Map F5

SALVADORIwww.salvadori-venezia.com Diamond Atelier. Piazza S. Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Map F4 • Diamond Atelier Cannaregio. Cannaregio, 2342. T: 041 5243211. Map D2 • Rolex Boutique. Piazza S. Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Map F4 • Panerai Boutique. Piazza S. Marco, 47. T: 041 5200899. Map F4 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO www.ferragamo.com San Marco, 2098 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2778509. Map E5 SWAROVSKIwww.swarovski.com San Marco, 5039 (Marzarieta 2 aprile). T: 041 5210618. Map F4 SWATCHwww.swatch.com San Marco, 5022 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5228532. Map F4 TIFFANY & CO.www.tiffany.it San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Map F5

MIU MIUwww.miumiu.com San Marco, 1471 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 8106066. Map F5

TOD’Swww.tods.com San Marco, 2251 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5206603. Map E5

MONCLERwww.moncler.com San Marco, 2088 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2960605. Map E5

VERSACEwww.versace.com San Marco, 1462 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 5200057. Map F5

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San Lazzaro N O international d'Arte Moderna V in-Italy collections and a selection of B ATA G I A AR VA ISJust one hour from Venice, Palmanova Outlet Ca’ D’Oro CO CORTE dei Mendicanti www.TFondaco.com. Calle del Fontego dei brands, skillfully mixed with the flair for which the CORTESE CAMPIELLO Village offers 90 stores with the trendiest brands STELLA Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge). T: 041 3142000. CORTE NOVA brand is renowned. Couture dresses, handcrafted discounted by up to 70% and open all year SantilineApostoli Vaporetto 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3 accessories and knitwear woven in cashmere, silk CAMPIELLO around: Aldo Bruè, Baldinini, WIDMANNAdidas-Reebok, CAMPIELLO CAL TI OZ GAB LE DELLA CASON Cà d'Oro and natural fibers. The boutiques also stock a R IE ZI LI Alberta Ferretti-Moschino, Calvin Klein, Fedon, selection of accessories and homeware inspired by S.Canciano Ospedale Iceberg, Ixos-Malloni, Nike, Piquadro, Pollini SS. and Giovann CAMPIELLO Chiesa Evangelica N SAN CANCIANO a classical contemporary aesthetic including knickD R IO C A L L AN E Tax refund for Non-EU citizens. In M many others. LE Luterana ID S C UO LE knacks and objet d’art for the home, bathroom and Noventa di Piave Designer Outlet CALLE W addition to shopping, Palmanova Outlet Village CAMPO table (also ideal for wedding gift lists). Private boat With more than 150 stores, cafés and restaurants, S.MARIA NOVA makes you discover a land full of history and taste: CAMPO DELLA CAL LE San Cassiano landing stage. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat visitors can find their favourite LAR N PESCARIA with price GA N ZI Alabels the picturesque G . G hills of the Collio region, the N CA A S A A L L IN ZA D 10am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. A S A LI70%, reductions of up to all year round, and Santa Maria RI landscapes of Friuli’s Dolomites and the Alps, close CAMPO O DE www.potpourri.it. Womenswear: San Marco, 1810 Basilica dei SAN CASSAN further discounts at the annual summer and winter Miracoli CAMPO DE LA I M dei to the Karst plateau with the historical sites of the IR BECARIE San Giovanni Santi Giovanni e Paolo A (Ramo dei Fuseri) T: 041 2410990. Menswear: CO CA sales. From iconic fashion brands like Prada, C A LL and the star-shaped city of Palmanova, LL Great War E LI CAMPO CAMPO DEL ED FO R Grisostomo CA E C 1811/m (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 5221332. NO CESARE BATTISTI LL A’ Gucci, Armani, Fendi, Jil Sander and Paul SmithC A Lto LE C ED Heritage Site. Open daily 10amMU SANTI GIOVANNI GIÀ A S T a UNESCO World EL ELL TI DELLA I A BO Homewares: San Marco, 1820/m (Frezzeria) sporting labels, like Nike and X-Bionic, and highTeatro Malibran E PAOLO Take the A4 highway BELLA VIENNA TA 8pm. www.palmanovaoutlet.it. CAMPO CA LL E T: 041 5201996. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 San MarcoSAN GIACOMETO DE LE ER street favourites, like Guess and Desigual. Easy to Venezia-Trieste Infoline: dell’Ospe BE and exit at Palmanova.Chiesa C SECONDA Vallaresso DE AMstop Map E4 reach from Venice via CORTE the service (available T: 0432 837810. Off Map L PIE San Giacomo DELshuttle MILION CARAMPANE SA L NS LO BA RB AR ON di Rialtotwice a day from “Venezia Tronchetto”, Mestre IA DE LE DE I TO LE CA Casa dientertainment, RA and Marghera), it offers endless MP O CAMPO AN CAMPIELLO E Marco Polo RIALTO fromFontego the children’s adventure play area to DEL SOL NUOVO T Fondaco dei Tedeschi by DFS restaurants and cafés and even an annual summer Audemars Piguet dei Tedeschi O AN V A CA The recently renovated 16th century building musicC .festival. Facilities: ATM cash machine, cafés, LR LLE Sant’Aponal DEL A must-visit stopover for luxury watch lovers. 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PIELLO San Silvestro CAMPO SANTA MARIA SAL DEI IZ A DEjewellery and watches, wines and FORMOSA DA accessories, charge), dogs admitted to the outlet village www.audemarspiguet.com. Piazza San Marco, FONDAMENTA SAN SAN SILVESTRO C. D LONI EL G L IO DEI PRETI ALIA CA ZZdepending spirits, beauty and fragrances, food and a rich (admission in stores on the store LL O CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO 18. T: 041 5285519. Vaporetto Fontego E Santa Marialine 2 (Rialto LA C. LA RG RGA A selection of local gifts. Don’t missDolfin the specially Tax Refund for Non-EU citizens CORTE DEL SantaandMaria stop). Map F4 Formosa Palazzo BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO Manin policy), MA Z Palazzo

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CALLE DE LA PIETA’

CA LL E

GRECI

CALLE DEI

Nuo ve

M AG NO CAL LE

DEL TE DEUM CALLE

CALLE DEL FO CALLE ZORZI

CA LL E

EN TA AM FO ND

DE LL A CO RO NA

LEONAR DO

C. COR ONA

CALLE RIMPET TO LA SACRES TIA

CALLE DE LE RASSE

ALBANESI CALLE DEL

FO DE ND AM L CR EN TA IS TO

UCCI

SANTA

E CAPP CALL

FONDAMENTA

CALLE CAVALLI

AZZ O LE MUR CAL

PEL LO RAM

O CAP

CALLE DEL DOSE

C. DE LA MADONETA

SA NT ’A NT ON IO

CA LL E

PIS CIN A SA N ZU LIA N CALLE BALBI

E N N LO O C LE AL C

BA LO TE LE

CA LL E DE

ZA TT

SAN GIORGIO MAGGIORE

Teatro Verde

N SO

CALLE ORTI

La Bottega dei Mascareri

Eredi Jovon A celebrated Venetian jeweler since 1934, and the owner of one of the few remaining historical shops on the Rialto bridge, Eredi Jovon is famous for its hand-carved Italian shell and blue agate cameos, set in silver or gold, and available at factory prices or on special offer. The shop is also renowned for its beautiful coral, Murano glass andLA GRAZIA ISOLA blackamoor jewelry. High quality, superior craftsmanship and its wide assortment of cameos and customized coral jewelry allow Eredi Jovon to satisfy the individual tastes of even the most discerning customers. WHERE TIP On request, Eredi Jovon creates customized portrait cameos based on photos or digital files. Thanks to an efficient e-commerce service, all creations can be ordered online and shipped worldwide. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.eredijovon.com. Ponte di Rialto, 5325. T: 041 5228979 Map F4

Pa Rim V

S. Servolo

SAN SERVO

PHOTO © DE LUNA_PROEDI MEDIA

Piedàterre Tucked away under an arcade just steps from the Rialto bridge is a tiny boutique with an astonishing selection of handmade slippers, where Alessandra and Renato make and sell colourful ‘furlane’ (slippers), handcrafted with recycled bicycle-tyre treads, ideal for finding your footing on a gondola. Their creations are available in coloured velvet, brocade,ISOLA printed or recycled SANfabrics CLEMENTE shirting, provided by their customers. Highly original and absolutely unmissable! Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.piedaterre-venice.com. San Polo, 60 (Ruga Rialto, Sotoportego dei Oresi). T: 041 5285513. Map E3

Japan Pavilion

RIO CROCE

FONDA MENTA

PHOTO © DE LUNA_PROEDI MEDIA

Rio d el Giardini

CALLE ZUCCHERO

CORTE

SAN GIAC OMO

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ENT A FIA NCO

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CAL

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del

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LIP

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FO ND ND AM AM EN TA

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United States Pavilion

O EP IO N IS ON SA 'ANT NT SA DO PALU LLE CA DO PALU LLE CA

TERÀ RIO

U I P

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DE LLA

Russia Pavilion

CA LLE

San Giuseppe di Castello

CALLE MORE

28 W H E R E V E N I C E I A P R I L 2 01 9

E AM

Le Zitelle

Zitelle

ION

O TR A

TT E

S. Giorgio

E IT

Redentore

CALLE ALBERO

E PIE SIN RT LIE CO DA

LL E

D ON

CAMPO SAN ISEPO

ISOLA DI

C. IST

SAN GI ACOM

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M E N TA

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Giardini

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SANT'ANNA

CALLE CORERA

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GIUSEP

SARES

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CALLE

I S E

DOMEN ICO CALLE SAN

AVON

E COPP

E SCHI

CALL

F O N D A M E N TA

CALL

AM ON

FOND. SAN GIOACCHIN

OLO C A L L E G I A N B AT T I S TA T I E P

BALD

GELO CALLE DELL’AN

GARI

EPPE

FONI

SAL

CROS

CALLE FRIZIER

San Francesco di Paola

IUS VIA G

CAL

N TA R I O D E L L A TA NA C. LOREDANA

Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

MARA

CALL E

FONDAME

LA TANA

RERA

CALLE TERCO

NALE

TAN A

RAMO DE

A RO SA

DE LA

LA RG

CAM PO

Basilica CA LLE

P IE

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AMEN

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FOND

La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale

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ENA

ini

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CA LLE

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DEI FORNI

Arsenale

de le

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

DAM

CALL

MIT

DEI ARSENALOTTI

M ORO SI NA

S. Zaccaria (Pieta')

FON

FONDAMENTA

CALL

ENT A ERE

San Martino

GRIMANI

DAM

RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA

CA LL E

Giardino delle Vergini

Rio

HIA RUGA VECC

ONI

La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

Arsenale di Venezia

RIN ST PE

I ITT GR

San Giovanni Battista in Bragora S C H I AV

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

Arsenale di Venezia

INA E DELF CALL

FON

E DE LL CA

E LL CA

CR OS ER A

N TI AR M

OLA

L’A NZO LO

LE SCU

ER NAT PIG

CA LL E

CASTELLO

DO NA

CAL

EL LO

E CA ST

CALLE DELA CREA

FONDA

IER

Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore

TA PALLA

A IN SC PI

CO L’AR

FOND AMEN

SC UO

100 m

CA LLE

COL

C. VOLTO

S. Zaccaria (Danieli)

CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO

CALLE

TE PIC

N SA

DEL PIOVAN FONDAMENTA

CATECUMENI

ENT A PON

CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO

R I VA D EGLI

LE ST

N IO ST BA

DAM

VONI

LE CAL

DE ADA SALIZ

CALLE TERAZZ ERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Santa Maria della Pietà

L DE

ENTA

RIO TERRÀ

FON

San Zaccaria

SCHIA

CA LL E

CAL LE

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI

CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

ANT ONIN

LLA

E LL CA

DEGLI

CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA

CALLE DEI FURLANI

SALIZAD A SAN

SALUT E

La Bottega dei Mascareri The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian masks, including jesters, andAcharacters from the GIU D Eelves CC ‘Commedia dell’Arte’ for a trip back into 18th century Venice. The Mascareri have also worked for the theatre, Santissimo Redentore the cinemas and fashion shows, and are considered Santa Croce among several of the most established manufacturers of collector’s items. They were the first mask makers to embellish their masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Hundertwasser' Garden Open daily 9am-6pm. www.mascarer.com. San Polo, 80. T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, 2720. T: 041 5242887. Map E3

FEM

CALLE LION

LLE

DE L’OGIO

I UD I SC GL DE LLE CA

'EU

CALLE

E GAT

CORTE DEL MORION

SALIZADA SANTA GIUSTIN A

ASI DR

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA

CORTE DELLE GATE

San Giorgio dei Greci

E NUO

SE ST

FO CA

LLE CA

ENTA FONDAM

ENT A CAS

MO SA SE CO GR AD ND O O

CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA

LE A DE IZAD SAL

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DAM

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

Giudecca Palanca

San Francesco della Vigna

SCO

San Giovanni di Malta

CALLE SAN LORENZO

CALLE BOSELLO

R I VA

NCE

CORTE SACCA

IN MAR DE L’OS

CAMPO SAN PROVOLO

Spirito Santo

E DEI CALL

VIN CALLE DEL

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

FON DAM

ZON

San Lorenzo

FRA

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

C. PIA NTON

FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

LE SAN

CALLE ERIZZO

ONI CA

A N M

FON

CAL

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA

Rio San Lorenzo

ZI A ZOR IZAD SAL

San Giovanni Novo

CALLE

FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO

IO ED M L RE DE

Palazzo Ducale

VO HIA

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

SOTO E CORTE NOVA

CALLE DEL NAVARO

O SAN

I SC

E DE LL CA

O EZ M

FFA GIU

RIT

CAMPO SANTA TIER GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

RO VE N SE SA

O SPI

CORTE NUOVA

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

DEL CAFE

CORTE NOVA

GA RU

E ALL

MAR

CALL E

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

TA EN AM ND FO

TER

ZAT

DE LE TOLE

TTO

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Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

CORTE

LA CAN LE DE

I OR

GL A DE RIV

ESS

ADA DEL FORN

FORNAC E

FO ND

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

GA SAN

Santa Maria del Pianto

SA N GIFO OVNDAM AN EN NI LA TA TE RA NO

CORTE TREVISAN

CALLE DEL FIGHER

LE LAR

LAR

SALIZ

ONI

ATI

LE DE CAL

Basilica di San Marco

Museo Correr

VAL

BARBA RIA

Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

DE LE BAN

E LL CA

CAL

A SC TA

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

CAL

NSION

IES

SAL

E AI GE SU

RÀ

TER

LLE

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

FRUTARIOLI

ASCE

TER

ZAT

RIO

EN TA

Zattere

ant'Eufemia

E CO

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

LLA

FONDAM ENTA

FO ND

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

LLE

CALLE DEL BASTION

DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

E LO NG

TO SA US M

Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

LAR

CAMPO NO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

LL E

CALLE

NAN

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

l Palaz

LO EL PP CA

CORTE

SAN

ZZA

San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

FOR

Rio De

CA AN E BI LL CA

VA CA

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

VENEZIA

Salute

CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

E LL CA

NI LO EI BA C.D

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

'AG

LIO

CORTE TORRETTA

RI BB I FA DE

CAL LE

INA

E LL CA

TIRI I MAR

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Bacino Orseolo

CAL

C.SA

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DEL FORNO

CALLE

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SA N

LICINI

M EZ O

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Santa Maria del Giglio

FONDA MENTA

CALL

REM

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

se Moi San

NIS

DIC

CORTE BAROZZI

AD A

CORTE

RUBBI

CA LL E DE

PIA

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. DE

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

CA LLE GA BR IEL

DEL CO O

CORTE

CAL

CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

Accademia

HETTO DEL TRAG CALLE

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

CAMPO PISANI

PIO

D. PAL

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

DE L CA PIT EL LO CORTE

San Moisè

Rio

CALLE DEL PESTRIN

DE L GO

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

Artisanal ‘botteghe’, tiny jewel-like boutiques San Vidal Palazzo Corner DURO and vintage shops, this 'unique' city offersCa' Giustinian della Ca’Granda Ponte Pisani an array ofdell'Accademia 'unique' locationsPalazzo where you ssanti Gritti Gallerie Canal Grande dell'Accademia Palazzo can indulge in an authentic Genovese Collezione Peggy shopping San Trovaso Guggenheim Punta della Dogana Basilica di experience and purchase objet d’art, fabrics San Gregorio Santa Maria della Salute and accessories that you'll be hard put to Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese find elsewhere. While strolling through its Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione ‘calli’, you will discover how the tradition cultivated by the latterSpirito endows this city with Santo its characteristic vibrancy… CAL

ZZO

RÀ

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

MAR ZO A XXII

LLE

ARTIN

IA ER EL SS CA

E C.

G. GA LLI

DE LE ERBE

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CALL

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CAL

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CIN

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PIS

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Santa Maria del Giglio

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LUC C. ATE DE TRAMONTIN LLO L TA M GI AR C. AP DE ZA IERA C. LE RI DE A BA SA I PIG LO N TE NO ZU LI LIA N

C. DEL

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

PIS

SA LA CHIE

Teatro la Fenice

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

San Maurizio

E DRIO

CALL

San Fantin

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FRU

LE DEL

ELL

TIER

CAL

LE MIN

L CA

SAN

CAL

SA LIZ C. DEL

MA RZA RIA

MARCO NA

LLE

CORTE GRAGOLINA

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

Teatro Malibran

CORTE DEL

MA RZ AR IA

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

Santo Stefano

RIO

CAMPO SAN LIO

INI

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

R io

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN VA RI SC O

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

ZEN GA MA DEL

C. DE LE COLONNE

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

BO M BE

IA OP PISC

I LL VA CA

CA LL E

C O RT E B ATA G I A

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ON RB L CA DE

RÀ

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DEL M ORA

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

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V O LT

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CA LU

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CAL

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FON

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D EI

RES

RO AT L TE DE

Palazzo Nervi CAMPO MANINScattolin

LE D EL

S.Canciano

CAN ZIAN A SAN

San Salvador

CORTE DEL TEATRO

MAZ ZINI

SAN SALVADOR

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

IN RN TE N PA SA

LA RG A

I CI

Rialto

Ottica Mantovani

RIO

HI SC ES D DE I TO C.. DE C LI

LE ELE UE MU SAM

SAN

BO TTE GH E

Palazzo Loredan

A AB RN BA AN A S

TI CA

LLE

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

S. Samuele

Ca' Rezzonico

A S. PISCIN

E CR

N STRI L PE DE LLE CA

CR OS ER A

RÀ

RIS

. NA

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DA LIZA SA

E ZE OZZ OZ RR CA

C. DEL

SA LIZ ZA DA

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

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DE L

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Ca' Rezzonico San Barnaba

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Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

RDO CALLE BERNA

I DIN RAR GHE

VE CC CO HIA RTE LE L EZZ E

Norma's

nde Canal Gra

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI

CA’

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

CAMPO SAN BENETO C AL LE

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

L TR

CAL LE RAMO

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)

San Beneto San Luca

E DE

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

CA C ALLL LE E

Palazzo Fortuny

SESTIERE

RAMO

TAR IOL

Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto

San Silvestro

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

Palazzo Grimani

e and l Gr

BA FRU

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

San Giovanni Grisostomo

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

DI SAN MARCO

L PE DE

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

Sant'Angelo

S. Toma' SX

Palazzo Giustinian Persico

L’A

VA L RA

San Tomà HET

A DE ET

S.Silvestro

a Can

LLE

I AN IM GR

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

PO DI NTA HERITA

Palazzo Querini-Dubois

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

Sant’Aponal

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

CAMPO DEI FRARI

OSE

CAMPIELLO DEL SOL

NE NE

E LL CA

CAMPO SAN POLO

MÀ

MPA

CAMPO ON RD SAN APONAL

E LL CA

CAL

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

CAL

San Pantalon

LLE E

ETI

DE DE

I PR

CA DE M L PIEL SSAAN NSSO LO ONI N NII

CARAMPANE

RÀ RÀ

E DO

E DE

CALL

N TO

TALO

Alberto Sarrias Masks

L’A AG GN NE ELL LA

CAMPO SAN ROCCO

NO FOR

CORTE DEL TEATRO

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

A LE

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

SAN POLO

E ZA

CAMPO DE LA BECARIE

DEL

À BAR

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

CAL

TER

SAL IZAD

NA MADO

TINT

RIO

CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA

RÀ

CA LL E DE CA E CA CA’ LL ’M E DE UT E LA I BO BOT TA A

CALLE

STA

E DE

LIZ

DE LA

CA CA ’B LL E ON VI DE NC IN

RAMO

E CH RI BB FA

E LLLE CAAL

CAMPO

CAMPO SAN STIN

Basilica dei Frari

San Rocco

E VO LT

E VE NI

CORTE DEL REMER

San Cassiano

ZII ZZ LIZ

RIO

Z NZE

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

I GA

O ZZ

C IM

Santa Sofia

CA LL CA LL

SART ORI

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

FOND .

SAN CASSAN

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

LL E

CAMPO SAN BOLDO C.

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

CALLE DE LA LACA

O EG RT PO TO SO

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

OLIO CALLE DELL'

CAL

OC C AL

LA TT

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO

CALLE ORSET TI

C AL

RUGA BELA

San Giacomo dall'Orio

CAL LE

E DE LL

O DE LA VID A

E TR

CA LL E

GI L ME

FON

ITA

OLA

A LL

C. DE L TR AG HET O

TEG

L’IS

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

CAL LE

I BA

CALLE SAVIO

CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO

A DE

A’ DE

o Cappello

RAM

RUGA VECCHIA

TER

CALLE CAZZA

o di Palazzo

ND RE

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

ST UA

San Felice

TI ET OR EM LL CA

I CALLE ORSETT

Palazzo FON oranzo DAME N Capello TA G

CA LL E DE L LA

S.Stae

UNIQUE IN VENICE

San Simeone Profeta

E RT

SAL RIO

LI S

CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola

S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

RI VA

RIO TERÀ CAZZA

Riva de Biaso

BI AS

nde l Gra Cana

GHETTO VECCHIO

Eredi Jovon

ISOLA DI SAN LAZZARO DEG

Eredi Jovon's cameo

LIDO DI V

ADVERTORIAL

Tessitura Bevilacqua Artisanal weavers specializing in the production of exquisite, decorative fabrics for furnishings and curtains. A unique place! Since 1875, the company has practiced the art of weaving on original looms that once belonged to the Venetian School of Silk. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-4pm (Sat-Sun by appointment). www.luigi-bevilacqua.com. Santa Croce 1320. T: 041 721566. Map E5 Nicolao Atelier An artisanal tailor’s shop that makes Venetian-style period costumes for movies, plays, commercials and Carnival parties. More than 10,000 sets of underwear, accessories, headgear and capes, all exhibited in an elegant premises in the centre of Venice that

comprise a workshop, a showroom and the entire costume collection. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm/2pm-6pm. Only Sat 3-10 February and Sun 4-11 February open 9am-1pm/2pm-6pm. www.nicolao.com. Cannaregio, 2590 (Fondamenta della Misericordia). T: 041 5207051. Map E2 Ottica Manuela Located in the district of San Marco, this high-end optician resembles an atelier rather than a shop. Renowned for its professionalism and attentive service, it offers creations that are real works of art. Its frames for prescription lenses or sunglasses make Ottica Manuela’s iconic eyewear real statement pieces that add a unique touch to every face. Open daily 10am-7pm. San Marco, 3145 (Salizada San Samuele). T: 041 5210268 Map E4

The Merchant of Venice The prestigious stand-alone boutique of this brand which represents the ‘Art of Perfumery in Venice’ is housed in the former, mid-17th century apothecary of San Fantin, located just steps from La Fenice Opera House. Its neo-Gothic décor and ornamentation in walnut, wood and terracotta, reflect the typical style of ancient Venetian ‘palazzi’. The Merchant of Venice is not only a line of products but a wider project which includes a concept store in Murano, the Palazzo Mocenigo Museum in Santa Croce, the Spice shop in Ercole d’Oro (Cannaregio) and the World of Venice space at the Marco Polo Airport. Open Tues-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). www.themerchantofvenice.com. T: 041 2960559. Map F4

OTTICA MANTOVANI Sun and prescription glasses, the most technologically advanced lenses and the most comfortable, fashionable frames. Managed by the Carlon family since the ‘40s, it is now run by the third generation of opticians: a reference point for locals requiring either prescription eyewear or sunglasses. In fact, one of the Mantovani’s most famous customers was Peggy Guggenheim.

OCCHIALI D’AUTORE

www.otticamantovani.it San Marco, 4860 (Mercerie del Capitello). T: 041 5223427.

ALBERTO SARRIA MASKS Since 1980, this family-run business has created papier-mâché mask for the theatre, Carnival parties and as decorative items for the home. Over the years, its owner Alberto Sarria has explored different techniques and materials to create unique pieces. Today, the store has extended its range to include leather goods, crafted according to traditional Venetian artisanal techniques. www.masksvenice.com San Polo, 777. T: 041 5207278.

NORMA'S Textile accessories for the home and personal use. From beach towels, bags and furlane (the typical velvet slippers with rubber soles worn by gondoliers) to furnishing accessories such as lamps, lampshades, decorative paintings, authentic Murano glass objet d’art, silverware and cameos. All items are crafted according to traditional artisanal techniques using high-quality Made in Italy materials. www.teodamar.com San Marco, 2995-2996 (Calle delle Botteghe). T: 345 0133552. More info: www.whereitalia.com/venice w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 29

SHOPPING Damiani A reference point in the world of high-end jewelry, Damiani is renowned for its unmistakable style and innovative technical solutions, including its ‘a lunette d’illusione’ setting designed to highlight the brilliance of its stones. www. damiani.com. San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Vaporetto line 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F4

Nardi Venezia A combination of a love of precious stones and a passion for the art of goldsmithery make Nardi’s jewelry rare accessories to be worn or collected, the epitome of sheer Venetian elegance. Open daily 10am-6.30pm. www.nardi-venezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 69. T: 041 5225733. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F5

Pomellato Established in 1967 as an artisanal workshop, over the years, its contemporary jewelry has captivated wearers around the world. Pomellato creates highly sought-after collections featuring a range of stones boasting myriad colours and ultrafeminine designs. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.pomellato.com. San Marco, 2031 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5231909. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Rocca 1794 The boutique’s sweeping window display, overlooking the famous St. Mark’s Square, host the collections of prestigious brands including Damiani and Salvini, but also the iconic models of some of the world’s most coveted high-end watchmakers including A. Lange & Söhne, piaget, Hublot, Zenith and Longines. Also particularly worthy of note are the splendid creations in glass handcrafted by Venini, unique artifacts that add a definite touch of allure to the space. Expert collectors or those who are new to the game can count on a service of excellence which entails full pre- and post-sale assistance. Other services include a full maintenance service with check ups and providing international certificates. www.rocca1794.com. Open daily 10.30am-7pm. Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 02 5201014. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Salvadori

ROLEX RETAILER Salvadori was founded in Venice in 1857. A member of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses, Salvadori purchases its diamonds from Antwerp and Tel Aviv, accompanied by the highest diamond quality certificates. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www.salvadori-venezia.eu. Diamond Atelier Venice: Piazza San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Salvadori Boutique Rolex: Piazza San Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Salvadori Boutique Panerai: Piazza San Marco, 47. T: 041 5200899. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Tiffany & Co. Founded in 1837 in New York, Tiffany & Co. is a world-renowned jeweller. Since its introduction in 1886, the Tiffany ® Setting has been known as the ultimate symbol of love, paving the way for Tiffany’s legendary collection of engagement rings. Bold, modern collections, including the elegant, minimalist creations designed by Elsa Peretti and the brightly-coloured lines by Paloma Picasso, have made Tiffany a destination for those seeking spectacular beauty, style and the very best in design. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.tiffany.it. San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Vaporetto line 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F5

PASSION SHOPPING La Bottega dei Mascareri The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian masks, including jesters, elves and characters from the ‘Commedia dell’Arte’ for a trip back into 18th century Venice. The Mascareri have also worked for the theatre, the cinemas and fashion shows, and are considered among several of the most established manufacturers of collector’s items. They were the first mask makers to embellish their masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.mascarer. com. San Polo, 80. T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, 2720. T: 041 5242887. Map E3

Ca’ Macana One of the oldest and finest mask making

Tips to purchase Murano glass

workshops in Venice for Carnival, theatre, film production and parties. Ca’ Macana crafts authentic handmade masks in the same way that Venetian artisans did 800 years ago and each mask is unique. Thanks to their expertise, they also hold conferences and courses on traditional mask-making techniques. Their masks were featured in important film productions including “Eyes Wide Shut” by Stanley Kubrick and in operas including those staged by the Vienna Opera House. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.camacana.com. Maskmaking and Courses: Dorsoduro, 3215. Showrooms: Dorsoduro, 3172 and Dorsoduro 1169. T: 041 2776142. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map D4

Ottica Mantovani Sun and prescription glasses, the most technologically advanced lenses and the most comfortable, fashionable frames. Managed by the Carlon family since the ‘40s, it is now run by the third generation of opticians: a reference point for locals requiring either prescription eyewear or sunglasses. In fact, one of the Mantovani’s most famous customers was Peggy Guggenheim. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www.otticamantovani.it. San Marco, 4860 (Mercerie del Capitello). T: 041 5223427. Map F4

Ottica Manuela Located in the district of San Marco, this highend optician resembles an atelier rather than a shop. Renowned for its professionalism and attentive service, it offers creations that are real works of art. Its frames for prescription lenses or sunglasses make Ottica Manuela’s iconic eyewear real statement pieces that add a unique touch to every face. Open daily 10am-7pm. San Marco, 3145 (Salizada San Samuele). T: 041 5210268. Map E4

The Merchant of Venice The prestigious stand-alone boutique of this brand which represents the ‘Art of Perfumery in Venice’ is housed in the former, mid-17th century apothecary of San Fantin, located just steps from La Fenice Opera House. Its neoGothic décor and ornamentation in walnut, wood and terracotta, reflect the typical style of ancient Venetian ‘palazzi’. The Merchant of Venice is not only a line of products but a wider project which includes a concept store in Murano, the Palazzo Mocenigo Museum in Santa Croce, the Spice shop in Ercole d’Oro (Cannaregio) and the World of Venice space at the Marco Polo Airport. www. themerchantofvenice.com. Open Tues-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 2960559. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Venini In order to protect local craftsmanship and guarantee the authenticity of recently purchased products, in 1994 the Region of Veneto has created a trademark to guarantee that products have been made in Murano according to the traditional techniques used by master glassblowers. Management of the registered Vetro Artistico® Murano trademark is entrusted to the Consorzio Promovetro Murano, which boasts a membership of fifty companies, the only ones allowed to mark their products with prestigious label. Depending on the type of working process involved, the adhesive sticker can be either red or blue. It also shows the manufacturer’s identification code on the top. In 2016, a serial number and a data matrix code were added to the sticker. These serve as additional proof that the product purchased is a genuine Murano-made item. (by G.M.) www.muranoglass.com – www.promovetro.com

30 W H E R E V E N I C E I A P R I L 2 01 9

An artistic space, where you rediscover all the elegance and sophistication of the exquisite creations handcrafted by Master glassmakers from Murano. A prime location for passionate collectors, or those whose want to further their knowledge about an entirely Italian art, Venetian glass creations, meticulously handcrafted by Master craftsmen. Open MonSat 10am-7pm. www.venini.com. San Marco, 314. T: 041 5224045. Other location: Fondamenta Vetrai, 47 (Murano). T: 041 2737204. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto or San Marco stops). Map F4

STROLLING THROUGH BURANO In addition to Murano and Torcello, this island on the Venetian Lagoon should not be missed. Loved (and widely photographed) by tourists, it is famous for its colourful houses, butter biscuits and above all, its handcrafted lace.

With a population of only three thousand inhabitants, the island’s row of houses, whose facades boast all the colours of the rainbow, are truly spectacular and make it one of the most picturesque places on earth! However, the origin of this tradition of painting the houses in bright colours was not only for aesthetic reasons. Legend has it that its fishermen, often confused by frequent banks of fog, devised a chromatic code that would help them identify their own landing piers more easily. Each colour corresponded to a family, to their house and to their address. BURANO LACE. The island is also the capital of handmade lace, a craft kept alive

for centuries by the wives of fishermen waiting for their husbands to return from sea. The work is extremely exacting, with each woman specializing in a single stitch. Since there are seven stitches in total, each piece is passed from woman to woman to finish. Groups of women work diligently for days to produce items, whether large or small, of matchless beauty: trims for dresses, accessories, tablecloths, gloves, umbrellas and masks, all made from this delicate, white lace, crafted with a painstaking attention to detail that has lasted for centuries. While on the island, make sure to visit the Museum of Lace-Making to understand why something so exquisite should not become extinct (Piazza Galuppi, 187).

GASTRONOMIC TRADITION. Butter biscuits known as Buranelli (either ring or S-shaped) are famous on the island and you'll be offered them wherever you go. However, this is not the only specialty that you’ll find. The island has a long-standing gastronomic tradition linked, above all, to fresh fish. HOW TO REACH BURANO Vaporetto line number 12 runs from the Venice-Fondamente Nove stop to Burano (1 hour). If you’re not in a hurry, the Venetians recommend taking line 14 from San Zaccaria (Pietà stop). Take a look at the venue where the Film Festival is held, and admire the MOSE flood barrier, the huge hydraulic engineering project designed to protect the lagoon.

LA PERLA GALLERY The Bon family in Burano offers an assortment of only the finest handmade items including antique lace, high quality made-to-order tablecloths, furnishing accessories, household linens, refined silk for lingerie and clothing, christening gowns and children’s clothing (up to age 10), exclusive scarves in silk and cashmere and Venetian masks.

Via Galuppi, 287-376. T: 041 730009 More info: www.whereitalia.com/venice w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 31

PHOTO © PAWEL HORAZY/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

ARTISTIC GLASS IN MURANO

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RAGUSEI

DORSODURO

CALLE

SESTIERE

nzera Scome De Canale I

de le

CALLE TERCO

C. LOREDANA

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

S. Zaccaria (Pieta')

CALLE

DEI CORTELLOTTI

CROSERA

CALLE

ENA

CALLE

COSMO ROTONDA

ARS

CASTELLO

CALLE

ACCADEMIA

E N TA

FORNACE

SALONI

FONDAMENTA

ONI

DAM

La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale

Punta della Dogana

Giudecca Palanca EN

CONVERTITE

CALLE

S C H I AV

DEI

PIETRO

RIO

R I VA D EGLI

FON

FONDAMENTA ARSENALOTTI

TERRÀ

VAPORETTO

VONI

S. Zaccaria (Danieli)

DEGLI

Giardino delle Vergini

Rio

San Martino

MOROSINA

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

Ca' Giustinian

FONDAMENTA

CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA

CALLE

Salute

CATECUMENI

RIO

FONDAMENTA

DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

DEL

PESTRIN

GRITTI CALLE

SAN

Moise

DEL TRAGHETTO

MARTIRI

San

CALLE

RIDOTTO

CALLE DEL PESTRIN

TREDICI

Rio

CALLE

VALLARESSO

CALLE

SARTOR

CALLE

DE CALLE

CROSERA

Arsenale di Venezia

PIGNATER

RUGA VECCHIA

ASCENSIONE

C. DEL

FONDAMENTA

DEL NOVA ISOLA

MARITTIMO PORTO DIREZIONE

MARITTIMO PORTO

ima

DIREZIONE

Maritt ne

MAGAZZIN

PISCINA

C. VOLTO

SCHIA

NUOVE

CASTELLO

L’ANZOLO

MARTIN

L’ARCO

CALLE

CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO

DEGLI

SALIZADA

DEL PIOVAN

R I VA

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

LARGA

CELESTIA

DONA

BASTION

CALLE

A N M

CASTELLO CASE

DELLA

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI

SAN ANTONIN

SCHIAVONI RIVA

SESTIERE

FONDAMENTA CALLE

CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA

DE L’OGIO

CALLE

SCUDI

VERONA

FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

NUOVE

SECONDO SAGRADO

CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA

CORTE DEL MORION

CORTE DELLE GATE

DEL

MINELLI

VIN CALLE DEL

CAVALLETTO

Palazzo

DEI PUTI

RIO TERRÀ

CASE

RAMO

CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA

CORTE SACCA

SAN

CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO

San Giovanni Battista in Bragora

CALLE DELA CREA

BIAGIO

San Francesco della Vigna

FRANCESCO

SANTA GIUSTINA

CALLE DEI FURLANI

SALIZADA

CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Santa Maria della Pietà

Spirito Santo

SAN

LAVRANERI

Sant'Eufemia

SAN

SALIZADA

San Giovanni di Malta

DEGLI

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA

San Zaccaria

ZATTERE

FONDAMEN TA

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

ZON

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

CALLE

FABBRI

DIETRO

CALLE

CALLE SAN LORENZO

CALLE LION

CALLE

DEI

FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

CALLE

ORSEOLO

enzer

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

San Lorenzo

San Giorgio dei Greci

CAMPO SAN PROVOLO SOTO E CORTE NOVA

Rio Del

CALLE

DEL

CALLE

DEL CAFETIER

CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA

C. PIANTON

CALLE BOSELLO

DELL’OROLOGIO

VERONA

DEI PRETI

GATE

SPECHIERI

SPADARIA

MARZARIA

DEI

CALLE

DRASI

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

MANDOLA

AVVOCATI

TERÀ

ZORZI SALIZADA

DE LE

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

CALLE

GIUFFA

CASSELERIA

RIO

CALLE

Palazzo Ducale

Museo Correr

CALLE

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

SEVERO

RUGA

C. DE LE COLONNE

Bacin o Stazio

Santa Maria del Pianto

LATERANO

CORTE NOVA

MEZO

CALLE

SAN

REDIVO

CALLE GOLDONI

CALLE

CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

MARCO

CANONICA DE LA

SALIZADA

LIO

FABBRI

Scom

NOVE

DE LE TOLE

FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

FONDAMENTA

Rio San Lorenzo

CORTE NUOVA

FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO

SAN

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

REMEDIO

San Giovanni Novo

DEL

SAN

CALLE

CALLE ERIZZO

SALIZADA

DEI

GRIMANI

CALLE

PISCOPIA

CAVALLI

CARBON

Salvador

CALLE

DEL

CORNER

San

CALLE

Rio

CALLE

SEBASTIAN

DE LA SACA

CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO

CALLE

ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA

ORBI

BEMBO

PIA

DEI

CALLE

SAN

CORTE BAROZZI

CALLE

DOLERA

CARRO

PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE

San Moisè

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

BARBARIA

SAN

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

BANDE

CORTE FRUTARIOLI

CALLE

LARGA

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

Basilica di San Marco

P U N TA S A B B I O N I

ENTA

Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

CORTE TREVISAN

REMER

CALLE

DEL CALLE

MOISE’

SA PISCINA

XXII MARZO

DE LE

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CALLE

CALLE DEL FIGHER

CALLE

BALONI

CAPPELLO BIANCA CALLE

SAN ZZA

San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

FORNO

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

TASCA

CORTE DEL FORNO

C.DEI

O DEL

GALIZZI

STURION

DEI

DEL

CINQUE

PISCINA

LA CHIESA

DRIO

LARGA

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

G. GALLINA

DEL

DE LE ERBE

COCCO

DEI

CALLE

TOSCANA

CALLE

Palazzo Genovese

San Gregorio

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

LARGA

CALLE

O MUSSATO CALLE

ZULIAN

CORTE TORRETTA

LE VIGNOLE

FONDAM

CORTE NOVA

CALLE GABRIELI

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE

CALLE

LIO

San Giuliano

SAN

PIGNOLI

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

CALLE DEL BASTION

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

DEL FORNO

FONDAMENTA

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CASTELLI

PIOMBO

D. PALLE

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

SAN

LUCATELLO MARZARIA DEI

BERLENDIS

VARISCO

CALLE

CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO

LICINI

MEZO

VENEZIA

CALLE

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CALLE

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

MIRACOLI

SALIZADA

CORTE

RUBBI

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

Spirito Santo CALLE

DEI LAVRANERI

San Gerardo CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

DEI

GIAZZO

C. LARGA

CORTE

CALLE

CAPITELLO

CORTE GRAGOLINA

GALLO

Bacino Orseolo

NOVE

CALLE

DONZELA

TODESCHI

Cana

CALLE

C. DEI

BIAGIO

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

C O RT E B ATA G I A

WIDMANN

CALLE

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

CAMPO

DE LA FAVA

CALICE

DEL

TAGIAPIERA

BALOTE

GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE

STRAZZE TERÀ RIO

CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO

CASTELLO

nde Canal Gra

S. SAMUELE

PESTRIN

CALLE

CORTE MICHIEL

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

Santa Maria del Giglio

CHIESA

CALLE DEL NAVARO

SANTO

RAMO

S.Canciano

RIO

Teatro Malibran

GALIAZZO

C. DEL

SALVADOR

MARZARIA

CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN

DELLE

SAN

Teatro la Fenice

DELLA

SALIZADA

SPIRITO

FRUTARIOL

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

SAN CANZIAN

CAMPO SAN LIO

C. DEL

SAN

C.DE

FRUTARIOL

DEL

FREZZERIA

BOTERI

SESTIERE

ORESI

DEL

CAOTORTA

Santa Maria del Giglio

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

CALLE

CALLE CAPPUZZI

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

SABION

MAGAZEN

DEL

CALLE

San Fantin

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

Canal Grande

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

ALLO

LUCA SAN CALLE

CALLE

CORTE DEL

MARZARIA

San Salvador

TEATRO DEL CALLE

LOCANDE

San Maurizio

CAMPO PISANI

CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

ZATTERE

DEI

PISCINA

CROSERA

Santo Stefano

FALIER

San Vidal

FONDAMENTA

BARBA

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

FONTEGO

PIO

TEATRO

CALLE ASSASSINI

PONTE

SACCA SAN

DEI

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

C. DEL

SALIZZADA

MAZZINI CORTE

SAN SALVADOR

CORTE DEL

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

PATERNIN

MANDOLA

TERÀ

RIO

FONDAMENT

LARGA

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto

Rialto

LARGA

SAN CALLE

CALLE

TRAGHETTO

BOTEGHE

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

Palazzo Loredan

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

CAL

TERÀ

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

CALLE

TEATRO

MARCO

CAFETIER

CALLE

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

CORTE DEL REMER

RIO

SALIZADA

San Giovanni Grisostomo

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

CAMPO MANIN

DEL

VENIER

CALLE

RAVANO

San Silvestro

Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)

S.Silvestro

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

C.SANT'AGNESE

NANI

AI GESUATI

NOVA

PARANGON

DEL

RUGHETA

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

Palazzo Grimani

CALLE

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

DEL PISTOR

CALLE

ZATTERE

Zattere

Giudecca Hilton

PRIULI

Santa Sofia

STRADA

CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA

CAMPO DE LA BECARIE

CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI

CAMPIELLO DEL SOL

RUGA

DEL

CARROZZE

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia CALLE

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione FONDAMENTA

VOLTI

CALLE

SARTORI

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

MUTI

BOTA

Sant’Aponal

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

CALLE

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

BONLINI

CA’

ZEN

CALLE

San Beneto San Luca

SAN

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

FONDAMENTA

FOND.

FABBRICHE

CALLE

CATENE

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

CATERINA

TRAGHETTO

CALLE

S. Samuele

Ca' Rezzonico

FONDAMENTA

DEL CALLE

nde

NARISI FOND.

CROSERA

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

CALLE BERNARDO

Ca' Rezzonico

San Trovaso

OGNISANTI

DE DE

CARAMPANE

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

SAMUELE

NOVE

CALLE

SANTA

S.ANDREA

FONDAMENTA

CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE

S. SALIZADA

LONGO

FONDAMENTA

FOND.

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

MORETTI

CALLE CALLE

CAMPO SAN APONAL

DEL

RIELO

SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE

LORENZO

FONDAMENTA

C. SAN

SCOAZZERA DE LA

LE PAZIENZE

San Cassiano CAMPO SAN CASSAN

CARAMPANE DE

Gra

Palazzo Fortuny

SESTIERE DI SAN MARCO

VECCHIA

LEZZE

PONTE

Abazia della Misericordia D I

TRAPOLIN

STUA

PERDON

CA’ CORTE

Accademia

FOND.

ZATTERE

CALLE

TIOZZI

TERÀ

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

Sant'Angelo

CALLE RAMO

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

DE OGNISANTI

DEI

RIO

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

al Can Palazzo Giustinian Persico

S. Toma' SX

San Barnaba

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

Chiesa di Ognissanti

FONDAMENTA

FODAMENTA

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

CALLE

L’AGNELLA

Palazzo Querini-Dubois CALLE

C. DE

RIO TERA’

L' ARZERE

GUARDIANI

CALLE

CAMPO DEI CARMINI

CANAL RIO TERA’

Carmini

Santa Maria dei Carmini

San Felice

S.Stae

CORTE DEL TEATRO

CAMPO SAN POLO

MADONA

ROSSA

FONDAMENTA

RAGUSEI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

del

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

SCALETER

San Tomà

DORSODURO

BESAGIO

FONDAMEN

VENDRAMIN

DEL

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI

FONDAMENT

VENEZIA

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

CALLE

DE LA

CAZZIOLA

Rio

SAN

CONTARINI

dell'Orto

FORNO

FONDAMENTA BRIATI

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

San Sebastiano

CA'

CALLE CA’BONVINCINI

BOLDO

ZANE

CROSERA

BEATE GIULIANA

SACCA

FISOLA

LARGA

SAN

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

Madonna

MORI

FONDAMEN

RAMO

Rio Nuovo

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

SALIZADA

CALLE CHIESA

DEI

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

DEL

TABACCHI

Angelo Raffaele

DORSODURO

S. Basilio

DELLA

Santa Fosca

CALLE

NUOVA LARDONI

SAN POLO

CAMPO DEI FRARI

CALLE

Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENTO

CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

CALLE

ALE

CAMPO SAN STIN

TOMÀ

CAMPO SAN ROCCO

PRETI

L’ASEO

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

NIE

CALLE

TINTORETTO

DEI

CALLE

FOMO

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

TERÀ

SAN

CALLE

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

RENIER

DEL

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

.DA

TRON

DEL

TENTOR

MEZO

CALLE

RIO

Basilica dei Frari

San Rocco

Muneghete

CALLE

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

PAPADOPOLI

DE L’OGIO

CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

CAMPO SAN BOLDO

CALLE

OCHE

LATTE

LACA CALLE DE LA LACA

PANTALON

San Pantalon

NUOVO

À D E

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

CALLE

OCHE

C.VENZATO

CALLE DELL'OLIO

FONDARIA

CIMESIN

SAN

BASEGO

RIO

FO de Servi N

SOTOPORTEGO

TINTOR

TOLENTINI

FONDAMENTA

DEI

RAMO

CIMESIN

SALIZADA

CALLE

Misericordia

CALLE

L’ISOLA

DEL

FON.

CALLE

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CALLE

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

CALLE SAN BASILIO

DE LA VIDA

CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO CALLE

SCHI

NICOLO’ SAN

MATTA DI CA’

CALLE CASE NUOVE

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

TERA’

RAMO

San Giacomo dall'Orio

RUGA BELA

CALLE ORSETTI

CALLE

C. CAMPAZZO DE CALLE

MINOTTO

Magazen

della

TER

CALLE

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

CALLE CAZZA

CALLE SAVIO

RUGA VECCHIA

TA GARZOTTI FONDAMEN

CANAL CORTE

LUNA

Rio

Del

Rio dei Tolentini

FONDAMENTA

CALLE CONTARINA

Rio

La Maddalena

NOVA

I CALLE ORSETT

DEI

LIBERTÀ

VECCHIO BERGAMA

SIMEONE

MARTA SANTA FONDAMENTA

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

CALLE

CERERI

RIO

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola RIO

FONDAMEN

BARI

DELLA

SAN

TRAGHETTO CALLE

DEI

STRADA

BIASIO

BARI

CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO

DEI

FONDAMENTA

DEI FONTEGHERI

ICO

Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

VECCHIO

NUOVA

RIZZI

PROCURATIE

LARGA

PONTE

DEI AMAI

RAMO

Rio

PENSIERI

FONDAMENTA

LISTA

CALLE

LUNGA

DEI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

SAN MICHELE

FONDAMENTA

della

CAMPO FONDAMENTA DEI MORI

CALLE TRAGHETTO

RIVA FONDAMENTA

San Simeone Profeta

Soranzo Cappello

DE CAMPO

San Nicola da Tolentino

FONDAMENTA

TERÀ

MADONA

MIS

E DEL PISTO

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

DEL REMER

MUNEGHE

CONVERTITE

VECCHIO GHETTO

CERERIA

CALLE

CAMIN DEL

RIELLO CALLE

CALLE

Riva de Biaso

CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO

Palazzo Soranzo Capello

Giardino di Palazzo

CASE CORTE

CALLE

SANT'ANDREA

TABACCHI

RIO

Rio

CALL

RIO DIETRO TERÀ LA CHIESA

San Marcuola

CAMPIELLO

NUOVE

CROCE

C. LAVADORI TERÀ

CALLE

Giardino Papadopoli

PIAZZALE ROMA RIO

FABBRICA FONDAMENTA

Madonna dell'Orto

MADONNA

RDIA

CROCE

CALLE

A E M

MISERICO

LER

RIO

Ferrovia

San Simeon Piccolo

Ferrovia

Sant'Andrea

SANT'ANDREA

DELL'ORTO

ER LE P

EONARDO

SAN LEONARDO

San Leonardo

DEI

TERÀ

Museo Ebraico CAL

S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO

nde l Gra Cana

SCALZI

Ponte degli Scalzi

FONDAMENTA

P.le Roma

Ponte della Costituzione FO.

RIO

People Mover Venezia

CAMPIELLO P I AV E

FONDAMENTA

Rio

People Mover Venezia

S A N TA

Santa Maria di Nazareth

TRONCHET

CANNAREGIO

CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO

Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia

ITTICO MERCATO DIREZIONE

TRONCHETTO

Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo

Sant'Alvise

CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E

INE

CALLE

SAVORGNAN

CALLE DEI FUSERI

San Girolamo

San Geremia

SALONI

SPAGNA

CAMPO SAN GEREMIA

ZATTERE

Palazzo Nani FONDAMENT

LISTA

FONDAMENTA

NUOVE

LLO

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

N G IR

DEL

CAPITELO

CASE

CALLE

FO EN

TERÀ

DA PONTE

B AT

DOGE

Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo

CALLE

QUERIN,

BECCARIE

CAVALLET

CALLE

CANNAREGIO

di Cannaregio

PRIULI

SEBASTIANO

FORNER

Canale

CAMPO SAFFA

CALLE

BRAGADIN

DEL

di Sant'Alvise

Sensa

COLETTI

FONDAMENTA

SAN

GIOBBE

Parcheggio Bus Turistici

della

CARLO

San Giobbe

VENIER FONDAMENTA

NUOVE

Rio

FOND.A

Ponte dei Tre Archi

FONDAMENT

DEL SABION

PENITENTI

CANNAREGIO

CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO

TRONCHET

FONDAMENTA

LARGA

FONDAMENT

Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze

ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI

CALLE

Santa Maria delle Penitenti

CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER

DEL

CORTE

F O N D A M E N TA

TA’

NOVA

FONTEGO

RIO TERÀ CAZZA

ISOLA

Parco

People Mover Venezia

SALITA

NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO

ISOLA DELLE TRESSE

NANI

CANOSSIANE

Chiesa di San Michele in Isola

FOSCARINI

FONDAMENTA

TERRÀ

COLORATA

Cimitero Nuovo ORTES CALLE

VENINI

PAOLO

FONDAMENT

MURANO CALLE

CALLE DEL CIMITERO

NICOLO’ CALLE SAN

del

CALLE

Rio

PORTO MARGHERA

CALLE

The art of solidifying silicon to obtain a hard yet delicate transparent material, suitable for countless purposes, is rooted in the ancient past. According to historians, glass was first made in Mesopotamia in the III millennium B.C. However, several archaeological digs suggest that glassmaking was already practiced in Venice in the 7th century B.C. Furthermore, after the year 1000 A.D., its production had become so important that it was protected by specific laws. There was only one small problem - the presence of glass furnaces in medieval Venice, which was largely built of timber, presented a grave fire hazard.

TORCELLO

FONDAME

home on the same day. Furthermore, each piece is unique, meaning that small imperfections are an integral part of the value of the object. In short, if you come across a shop selling mass-produced items that promises quick delivery times or tempts you with low prices, beware. Apart from some exceptions, it’s better to do your glass shopping in Murano rather than in the city of Venice. Don’t worry if you want to buy an object but don’t have time to wait: the island’s glass factories are now equipped to make safe deliveries anywhere in the world.

As a result, in 1291, for safety reasons, the Great Council ordered the glass workers to transfer to the Island of Murano, where they created a district that still exists. It was here that in the 13th century eyeglasses were invented, and here, in 1369 that mirrors began to be produced. It was also here, in 1450, that Angelo Barovier invented crystal. Throughout the Renaissance, glass was a rare commodity. It was only in 1827 that glass began to be produced on an industrial level. At that point, blown glass or glass produced by lampworking became a highly prized material used for aesthetic purposes, and achieved the height of its splendor during the Art Nouveau period. Artists including Lalique, Dammouse or Tiffany sought out the glass blowers of Murano to produce their coveted objects. During the midtwentieth century, real masters of the art including Signoretto, Ballarin, Zanetti and Vidal began to emerge in Murano. Their works are highly coveted objects, true collectors' items that are often displayed at museums. While strolling through the streets of Murano, you’ll be spoilt for choice. If you want to make a purchase, bear several criteria in mind. Crafting authentic Murano glass is no easy task and isn’t cheap. Large objects require hours of work, so don’t expect to take you custom-made lamp

FONDAMENTA

Venice and glass: a strong, enduring partnership that has lasted for centuries. It’s natural to mention glass when talking about Venice. It’s the same as associating the city with the Lagoon, its colours and the plays of light that have served as inspiration for the most iconic creations by local master glass blowers.

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DINING

An invitation to dine at a convent Set in a magical location, far removed from Venice’s tourist track, the L’Ulivo restaurant offers traditional dishes, with a few forays into international cuisine. By Chiara Zaccarelli

L’

Ulivo restaurant, located inside the Palladio Hotel & Spa, is set on the Island of Giudecca, a charming location far from the hustle and bustle of the mainland but only a two-minute vaporetto ride from St. Mark’s Square. The Palladio Hotel & Spa is an imposing building, which hosts one of the Lagoon city’s hidden gems, and offers guests the sort of privacy and ambience that is almost impossible to find anywhere else in Venice. It is housed in a 16th century convent, designed by the great architect Andrea Palladio. At this peaceful oasis, surrounded by gardens filled with hydrangeas and wisteria protected by the high walls of the convent, or on the convent’s patio, you can sample light, tasty cuisine,

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prepared with organic, ‘zero kilometer’ ingredients. L’Ulivo is open for lunch and dinner, and caters to guests’ dietary needs: vegan, vegetarian or gluten-free, with dishes created specifically for them. The restaurant’s open-plan kitchen allows guests to watch the chef preparing traditional Venetian specialties and more international offerings, including seafood, tuna tartare or shrimp risotto. The restaurant offers a sophisticated choice of wines, designed to pair perfectly with the dishes listed on the menu, with a nod to the whites of the neighbouring region of Friuli that are an ideal accompaniment to fish. L’Ulivo is also open to outside guests from March until the end of October.

>> L’Ulivo c/o Palladio Hotel & Spa www.palladiohotelspa.com Giudecca, 33. T: 041 5207022. Map F6

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/VENICE

TASTING EXPERIENCE Enoteca Al Volto Excellent wine accompanied by traditional ‘cicchetti’ and Venetian fish specialties, Enoteca Al Volto invites diners into its warm, welcoming atmosphere. €. Open daily 11.30am-3pm and 6pm-10pm. San Marco, 4081 (Calle Cavalli). T: 041 5228945. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Zaccari stop). Map E4

L’Aciugheta Its fame and fortune stems from a soft, 7 cm long “paninello” (literally, “tiny sandwich”), stuffed with butter and two “aciughete” (skinless anchovies in oil). Other must-trys include its meatballs, croutons, stuffed chili peppers and freshly baked ‘pizzette’ topped with anchovies. €. Castello, 4357 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5224292. Vaporetto line 1, or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Osteria alla Rivetta One of Venice best-known, most traditional “cicheteria” (but also a trattoria for lunch and dinner), it is a go-to address for wine tastings. Open daily 11am-10.30pm. €. Castello, 4625. T: 041 5287302. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN CUISINE A Beccafico Arte It offers several dining spaces and a small inner courtyard. Its typical Venetian ambience, is low-key, contemporary and elegant, blending to perfection with its Sicilian-style cuisine. €€€. Closed on Tuesdays. www.abeccaficoarte.com. Cannaregio, 2289/C. T: 041 2759220. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E5

Acqua Pazza Set against the magical backdrop of Campo Sant’Angelo, it offers a great ‘al fresco’ dining experience under the stars. This small corner of

Amalfi in Venice serves an array of tantalizing dishes. €€€. www.veniceacquapazza.com. San Marco, 3808. T: 041 2770688. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).Map E4

Al Colombo A meeting point since 1986 for an international clientele, its menu maintains all the hallmark features of traditional Venetian cuisine. In summer, guests can dine outside under the romantic light of Venice’s street lamps. €€€. www.alcolombo.com. San Marco, 4619. T: 041 5222627. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3

Al Giardinetto da Severino Set against the magnificent backdrop of the 15th century Palazzo Zorzi, the restaurant is listed as an ‘historical establishment of Venice’ and its dining room still features a vaulted ceiling and a frescoed firedplace. Its menu offers the best of traditional Venetian cuisine: baccalà, Venetianstyle liver, ‘granseola’, polenta with shrimp, a mixed fish fry with artichokes and seafood risotto. The restaurant offers a gluten free menu especially designed for coeliacs. Closed on Thursday. €€€. www.algiardinetto.it. Castello, 4928 (Salizada Zorzi). T: 041 5285332. Vaporetto line 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4

Al Mercà Highly sought-after, typical Venetian cuisine. Boasting an informal atmosphere, it is the perfect spot to relax with a soothing cocktail after a long day of sightseeing. €€€. Lido - Via E. Dandolo, 17. T: 041 2431663. Vaporetto 1, 2, 5.1, 5.2 (Lido stop). Map E3

Alla Madonna Established in 1954 and set in one of Venice’s most picturesque corners, the Rado family has run Alla Madonna since its inception. Its welcoming ambience, characterized by an ancient vineyard, provides the perfect backdrop for the typical regional cuisine served here. €€€. www. ristoranteallamadonna.com. San Polo, 594 (Calle della Madonna). T: 041 5223824. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E4

Antica Carbonera Homemade pasta, fresh fish and unusual decor: its interiors resemble those of the Miramar yacht that belonged to Franz Joseph II and Princess Sissi. A favourite haunt of artists, its charm and Venetian flavour have remained unaltered since it first opened in 1894. Standouts include its raw fish dishes and stewed cod fish with polenta. €€€. www.anticacarbonera.it. San Marco (Calle Bembo). T: 041 5225479. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Antiche Carampane A typical trattoria, in business for over a century, it has a friendly, convivial atmosphere. This is a go-to address for foodies and connoisseurs of fine dining. Its excellent menu, enhanced by the freshest, top quality ingredients is accompanied by an astute selection of wines. Closed on Sundays and Mondays. €€€. www.antichecarampane.com. San Polo, 1911. T: 041 5240165. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3

Antico Martini Located next to the La Fenice theatre, with its elegant dining rooms, welcoming atmosphere and attentive staff, the Antico Martini serves some of the best seafood in town. €€€. www.anticomartini. com. Campo Teatro Fenice 2007. T: 041 5224121. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).Map E5

Antico Pignolo The hand of owner Eligio Paties, is apparent in its beautifully laid tables and impeccable service. The traditional Venetian menu is accompanied by a well-stocked cellar boasting more than 900 labels from all over the world. €€€. www.anticopignolo. com. San Marco, 451 (Calle degli Specchieri). T: 041 5228123. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Da Fiore A renowned Venetian restaurant that offers topnotch cuisine in a sophisticated, elegant setting. Thirty-five years ago, Mara and Maurizio Martin transformed an old osteria into one of the city’s

TRATTORIA DA ROMANO Run by the Barbaro family for four generations, this picturesque eatery has retained all of its timeless appeal. Recognized for more than fifty years as one of the few prestigious art restaurants in Venice, Romano manages the trattoria with the help of his wife, Siora Gigia. Standouts include ancient Burano specialties, and the chef’s signature mixed grill cooked over wood.

www.daromano.it Via Galuppi, 221. T: 041 730030. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 35

TOP COFFEE AND PASTRY SHOPS most famous restaurants. Impeccable service and superlative Venetian dishes composed of carefully selected seasonal ingredients have made Da Fiore a must-visit destination. Closed on Mondays. €€€. www.dafiore.net. San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3

Whether you’re in search of a cup of coffee, a snack or an aperitivo, Venice offers an incredible variety of bars and pastry shops, where you can stop after a long day’s sightseeing.

Gran Canal Here you can taste the typical specialties of Venetian tradition, featuring the purest expression of taste and harmony. The restaurant’s main focus is on seafood and vegetables. Don’t miss a dinner on its evocative terrace: the restaurant faces directly onto the Grand Canal offering diners an excellent opportunity to combine the pleasures of the palate with a stunning view over Venice’s lagoon. Open: lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-11.30pm €€€. www.hotelmonaco.it. c/o Hotel Monaco&Gran Canal.. San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Map F5

Caffè Florian Caffè Florian - One of Venice’s most famous cafés with its glittering neo-Baroque décor and attractive 19th century wall panels, Caffè Florian is located in the heart of St. Mark’s Square. The oldest café in Italy, Florian is steeped in history. Opened on 29 December 1720 by Floriano Francesconi, under the name of ‘Alla Venezia Trionfante’, it was simply re-christened Florian by its regulars, who included celebrities such as Casanova, Goldoni, Canaletto and Guardi. www. caffeflorian.com. Piazza San Marco, 57. T: 041 5205641. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Caffè Lavena - Since 1750, Caffè Lavena, situated in a corner at the foot of the Clock Tower in front of the Basilica, has been one of the most renowned coffee shops in Venice. Known by the Venetians of those days as the ‘Caffè dei Foresti’ (The Foreigners’ cafè), it was mainly frequented by an international clientele. www.lavena.it. Piazza San Marco, 133/134. T: 041 5224070. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Dal Mas Located just a few minutes from the railway station, this pastry shop offers a triumph of traditional sweet treats for breakfast (in addition to croissants, try their ‘zaleti’, ‘pan dei Dogi’ and ‘sbreghettine’). Those with a sweet tooth will be delighted to know that Dal Mas is also a chocolate shop where you can find single servings of mousse, mini Sacher torte, ‘cannoli’ and brightlycoloured macarons. www.cioccolateriadalmas. com. Cannaregio, 149/a (Rio Terà Lista de Spagna), a few metres from the St. Lucia Station. T: 041 715101. Gran Caffè Quadri - Nestling in St. Mark’s Square, with its ornate stucco mouldings, 18th-century murals, huge mirrors and polished wooden furniture, Quadri is every inch the historical café. People, including habitués like Stendhal, Wagner, Proust and Woody Allen, have been drinking at this historic venue since 1638. www.alajmo.it. Piazza San Marco, 121. T: 041 5222105. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Harry’s Bar - Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, it is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity to step 36 W H E R E V E N I C E I A P R I L 2 01 9

back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. An ideal venue at any time of day, either for lunch or dinner, but also for a truly trademark aperitivo! www. harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco, 1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Vallaresso stop). Harry’s Dolci - Harry's Dolci, a bar and restaurant, offers a peaceful view of the Canal with outdoor tables facing the Giudecca Canal. The people at the famed Harry's Dolci have established their latest enclave on this rarely visited island, far from the madding crowds of Piazza San Marco. From the quayside windows of this chic place, you can watch seagoing vessels, from yachts to lagoon barges. cipriani.com. Fondamenta S. Biagio, 773 (Giudecca). T: 041 5224844. Vaporetto linea 4.1 (Palanca stop). Pasticceria Italo Didovich - Should you find yourself in the vicinity of Campo Santa Marina (just a little off the beaten tourist track), make a beeline for this excellent pastry shop, which has stood here for the past 40 years. In addition to ‘frolle’ and rice and almond pastries, it also offers several tantalizing delicacies Castello. Campo Santa Marina. T: 041 5230017. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Pasticceria Rosa Salva - This institution has three separate shops in Venice. The first is in San MarcoCalle Fiubera: its historic headquarters, permeated by the aromas of its nearby pastry kitchen. The next is in San Marco-Mercerie: aperitivi and quick snacks that can be enjoyed in between browsing the shops lining le Mercerie, the shopping street that connects the Rialto to St. Mark’s Square. The last is in Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo. www. rosasalva.it. San Marco (Calle Fiubera), T: 041 5210544. San Marco (Mercerie), T: 041 5227934. Castello (Campo San Giovanni e Paolo), T: 041 5227949. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Rizzardini - Since 1742, the traditional sweet treats sold at this pastry shop have tempted the palates of Venetian locals and visitors alike, thanks to the high quality of its products, its atmosphere and eye-catching window displays. Must-try’s include its biscuits and, at Carnival, its utterly delectable ‘fritole’ , small fried doughnuts. San Polo, 1415. T: 041 5223835. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato or San Silvestro stop).

Harry’s Bar Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails (originally invented here) and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, It is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. www. harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco, 1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto 1 (Rialto stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

La Conca d’Oro Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, La Conca d’Oro was established by Sicilian brothers Giuseppe and Giovanni Costa, the founders of the first pizzeria in Northern Italy. Since that time, this Venetian institution has been turning out some of the best pizza in town. € (pizzeria) - €€€ (restaurant). www.concadorovenice.com. Castello, 4338 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5229293. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 , 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Lineadombra Perched on the last bridge of the most beautiful promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect spot for a romantic dinner where you can enjoy all the typical flavours of the Venetian lagoon. €€€. www.ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, 19. T: 041 2411881. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Zattere stop) or 1 (Salute stop). Map E5

Trattoria Do Forni The owner Eligio Paties has managed to make this restaurant a sought-after destination, distinguished by its wide assortment of Venetian fare, thanks to the quality of the dishes and a genuine sense of typically Venetian hospitality. The dining spaces will remind you of the carriages of the legendary “Orient Express” and pay tribute to the history of Venice. €€€. www.doforni.it. San Marco, 468 (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 5232148. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4

Wildner Opened by the Fullin family in 1960, it is patronized by locals and tourists alike. Its tranquil, relaxed atmosphere is further enhanced by a spectacular view over the Basin of St. Mark’s. Its menu is mainly fish-based and serves classic Venetian specialties including ‘Baccalà Mantecato’ and ‘Sarde in Saor’. Closed on Tuesdays. €€€. c/o Pensione Wildner. Castello, 4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 or 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4

DINING

Top hotel restaurants Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite at several top hotels in Venice.

L’Alcova c/o Ca’ Sagredo Hotel. www.casagredohotel.com Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99. T: 041 2413111. Boasting a magnificent panoramic terrace over the Grand Canal and in front of the historic Rialto Market, it is ‘the’ temple of traditional Venetian cuisine for real connoisseurs. Map E3

Glam Acquerello c/o S. Clemente Palace Kempinski. www.kempinski.com Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. Italian and Venetian tradition with creative and surprising combinations. Its view is as breathtaking as its food: the restaurant boasts a large terrace. Off Map Aman Venice Restaurant c/o Hotel Aman Venice. www.aman.com Palazzo Papadopoli. San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo). T: 041 2707333. A delightfully unique menu, thanks to several specialties created by starred Milanese chef Davide Oldani. Map E4 Antinoo’s c/o Centurion Palace Venezia. www.sinahotels.com Dorsoduro, 173. T: 041 34281. In addition to the à la carte menu you can also choose from a selection of typical gourmet Venetian dishes. Map E5 Aromi c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. www.molinostuckyhilton.it Giudecca, 810. T: 041 2723311. Here you can taste authentic Mediterranean cuisine. Summer terrace with a fabulous view over Venice and the Giudecca Canal. Map C6 Canova c/o Baglioni Hotel Luna. www.baglionihotels.com San Marco, 1243. T: 041 5289840. Menus and tastings featuring the best of traditional Venetian cuisine. All dishes are made using only the freshest, high-quality ingredients. Map F5 Club del Doge c/o The Gritti Palace. www.clubdeldoge.com Campo Santa Maria del Giglio. T: 041 794611. A welcoming ambience and authentic upscale cuisine make each culinary experience a truly special one. Map E5

De Pisis c/o Hotel Bauer Palazzo. www.bauervenezia.com San Marco, 1413/d. T: 041 5207022. For a romantic canal side dinner, set against the backdrop of the historic Basilica della Salute. Map F5 Do Leoni c/o Hotel Londra Palace. www.londrapalace.com Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni). T: 041 5200533. It combines the traditions of Venetian fare with more creative dishes Two atmospheric dining spaces: an indoor dining room and its summer Veranda. Map G4 Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa. www.jwvenice.com Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300 The renowned name of Giancarlo Perbellini is behind this restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island. Off Map Glam c/o Palazzo Venart. www.palazzovenart.com Santa Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron). T: 041 5233784. Chef Enrico Bartolini offers an interpretation of contemporary Italian cuisine and research-based use of locally-sourced Venetian ingredients. Map E3 Grand Canal c/o Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. www.hotelmonaco.it A meeting place for gurus of the world of economy and finance, journalists and artists. Here you can enjoy the typical dishes of Venetian tradition, from the delicacies of the sea to the vegetables. Map F5 Il Giardino Segreto c/o Grand Hotel dei Dogi. www.dahotels.com Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto, 3500 (Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208110. In an elegant and intimate atmosphere, you can enjoy international specialties and delicacies of the Italian cuisine, created by highly skilled chefs. Map E1

La Caravella c/o Hotel Saturnia. www.restaurantlacaravella.com Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 2399. T: 041 5208901. Opened in 1963, it completes the services offered by the Hotel Saturnia with a touch of culinary excellence thanks to its fabulous Venetian cuisine updated with a contemporary, gourmet twist. Map E5 La Cusina c/o The Westin Europa & Regina. www.lacusina.it San Marco 2159. T: 041 2400001. The ideal place to enjoy a combination of taste and relaxation. Choose a table overlooking the Grand Canal to enjoy a panoramic view of the city, while savouring the restaurant’s seasonal dishes. Map E5 Le Maschere c/o Starhotels Splendid Venice. www.starhotels.com San Marco Mercerie, 760. T: 041 5200755. Here you can sample authentic Venetian cuisine, featuring both meat and fish-based dishes. A truly gourmet experience, guaranteed by its partnership with Eataly. Map F4 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. www.belmond.com Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. Take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant takes its name, and try the specialties inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6 Pisanino c/o Palazzetto Pisani. www.palazzettopisani.com San Marco, 2814. T: 041 5232550. Here you can savor refined Italian and gourmet food in a typically Venetian ambient. Particular events are often organized in this space. Map E5 Terrazza Danieli c/o Hotel Danieli. www.terrazzadanieli.com Riva degli Schiavoni, 4196. T: 041 5226480. A trip to discover traditional flavours. Exclusive gourmet experience, with a menu featuring locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. Don’t miss the breathtaking view over the lagoon. Map F4

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DINING

Michelin-starred restaurants

Oro

Quadri

Met

Are you in search of a real Venetian tasting experience? Where® brings you a round-up of Michelin-starred restaurants for true connoisseurs of taste! Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco T: 041 8521300 www.jwvenice.com Aptly named ‘Dopolavoro’, which means after work. The renowned name of Giancarlo Perbellini is behind this new restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island - the Isola delle Rose, right out in the Venetian lagoon. After a day of business meetings or exploring Venice, enjoy delicious gourmet recipes with an individual flavour and skilful light touch - the true mark of a great chef. Off Map Glam c/o Palazzo Venart. Santa Croce, 1961. T: 041 5235676 www.palazzovenart.com/en/restaurant-bar Set within a secluded corner of Venice and located in a prime position overlooking the Grand Canal,

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the Glam is situated inside Palazzo Venart. Just one year after it opened, it was awarded its first Michelin star in November 2017. The brainchild behind its menu is Enrico Bartolini, Italy’s youngest chef. Helmed by resident chef Donato Ascani, the restaurant serves traditional Venetian dishes upgraded with a futuristic twist and enriched with contemporary pairings that intensify the fabulous flavours of the Lagoon. Glam can host up to 40 guests indoors or al fresco. Map E3 Il Ridotto Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo, 4509. T: 041 5208280 www.ilridotto.com Located just steps from San Marco, Il Ridotto, 'reduced' in Italian, refers to the size of this tiny, gracious restaurant. The innovative menu employing traditional elements is revised daily, with the offerings tending toward lighter, but wonderfully tasty versions of classic dishes. A particular characteristic? It only has 9 tables. Map F4

Met Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149. T: 041 5240034 www.hotelmetropole.com Located inside the Metropole hotel, the Met Restaurant is a pioneer of a new concept targeted at promoting the Italian region. Its menu features recipes based on traditional Italian gastronomy served in two versions: either classical or upgraded with a creative twist, served in unusual but never excessive combinations. Its carefully prepared dishes are full of flavour and presented in a bright, colourful way. Map G4 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani Giudecca, 10 T: 041 240801 www.belmond.com A jewel in the crown of Belmond Hotel Cipriani, experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant draws its name, and try the specialities inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6

Osteria da Fiore San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308 www.dafiore.net An Osteria only by name because this is actually an elegant, starred restaurant. Its cuisine ranges from the most authentic traditional flavours interpreted in a modern-day key (meaning that offerings tend to be lighter) to more unusual dishes invented by the chef, intended to be as close to nature as possible thanks to a great selection of highly sought-after seasonal ingredients. Ask for a wine recommendation from its excellent wine list which also features several international labels. Map E3 Quadri Piazza San Marco, 121. T: 041 5222105 www.alajmo.it A real institution of Venetian taste, starting from its decor. The restaurant – with the Quadrino and Grancaffè Quadri on the ground floor – has recently reopened after a major restoration by Philippe Stark: triumph of stucco, Murano glass and precious fabrics housed in one of the most photographed ‘palazzi’ in the city. Its menu features intriguing, creative dishes that are beautifully presented... without forgetting its spectacular view over piazza San Marco. Map F4

Glam

Dopolavoro

Venissa Fondamenta S. Caterina, 3 (Mazzorbo) T: 041 5272281 www.venissa.it On the one hand its vegetable gardens and vineyards, and, on the other, its cuisine featuring an intoxicating meld of locally sourced ingredients. Its bucolic surroundings serve as the ideal backdrop to its authentic, typically Venetian cuisine lovingly prepared by its four chefs who only use fresh, seasonal ingredients. Off Map

Venissa

Il Ridotto

Osteria da Fiore

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PH © THOMAS MAYER

SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Contemporary art in an antique setting

unta della Dogana and the Palazzo Grassi are part of François Pinault’s widespread cultural project for contemporary art in Venice. Punta della Dogana refers to the triangular area of Venice where the Grand Canal meets the Giudecca Canal. The building of the Dogana del Mar, completed in 1682, was used as the Serenissima’s customs house until around 1980 when it fell into disuse. French entrepreneur François Pinault transformed it into a museum hub and a centre of contemporary art in 2009. The imposing renovation, which the François Pinault Foundation entrusted to Japanese archistar Tadao Ando, involved a complete makeover of the old interiors which were given a highly contemporary industrial look. In addition to

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housing part of Pinault’s vast collection, Punta della Dogana is used for events, and collective temporary or monographic exhibitions. Blockbuster exhibitions hosted here over the past few years include ‘Treasures from the Wreck of the Unbelievable’, the major solo exhibition dedicated to Damien Hirst in 2017 (see photo). Corroded by the sea and covered with coral and shells, the monumental works of the visionary British artist, interacted perfectly with the cement walls, the exposed brickwork and the glass and metal elements designed by Tadao Ando. Punta della Dogana is currently hosting a collective exhibition titled ‘Place and Signs’ (see Hot Dates, page 10). >> www.palazzograssi.it

PH © AFINZI_PROEDI

In a city that has inspired artists and creative talent throughout the ages, there’s a renovated 17th century building hosting some of the most important exhibitions of contemporary Italian art. By Chiara Zaccarelli

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/VENICE

Basilica del Redentore Based on a project by the famous architect Andrea Palladio, the Basilica was built in 1577 on the island of Giudecca. It contains works by Tintoretto, Veronese and other important Venetian artists. It was built to celebrate the deliverance from the Black Death, which killed one third of the population. To commemorate the end of the plague, a solemn festival is still held at the church on the third Sunday of July. www.chorusvenezia.org. Campo Redentore (Giudecca). T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 41 and 2 (Redentore stop). Map E6

Basilica di San Marco This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. The famous winged lion, a symbol of the city and of the ancient ‘Venetian Republic’ is depicted on its pediment. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. You might have to queue for a time to get inside, but your wait will be well worthwhile. Although admission is free, you will have to pay to see several specific sights. In order not to miss your visit, be sure to inform yourself about the opening hours, as they are often subject to change. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-4pm; Sun (and Public Holidays) 2pm-4pm. www.basilicasanmarco.it. San Marco, 328. T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

increase in non-Christian immigrants that, for the first time, the Venetian Senate, issued a decree stating that the Jewish population should move to a specific part of the city, where they could be better ‘controlled’. Thus Jews were forced to move to this, then, remote northwestern corner of Venice, to an abandoned site of a 14thcentury foundry (‘ghetto’ is old Venetian dialect for "foundry," a word that would soon be used throughout Europe and the world to depict an area where isolated minority groups lived. The Venetian Ghetto nevertheless became a thriving, vibrant district. In 1797, when Napoleon rolled into town, the ghetto was disbanded as an institution, and Jews were free to move elsewhere. Today it is still the center of Venice's ever-diminishing community of Jewish families. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1 (Ponte Guglie stop). Map D2

Palazzo Ca’ Vendramin Calergi (Casinò di Venezia) Overlooking the Grand Canal, this building houses the oldest casino in the world. An age-old destination, for aristocratic travelers from both East and West, Venice was the first city in the world to open a gaming house way back in 1683. Today its old-world ambience continues to play host to several of the world’s most classical games. The casino is open to everyone aged 18 and over and proper attire is required. www.casinovenezia.it. Cannaregio, 2040 (Calle Colombina). Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marcuola stop). Map E3

Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square) Known throughout the world, this square is the heart of Venice and its most symbolic landmark. It consists of a central, trapezoid-shaped unit integrated with other areas. Measuring 170 metres in length, it faces directly onto the water and is surrounded by several magnificent stately buildings. Its incalculable scenic beauty makes it one of the most widely-photographed places in the world. The best thing to do here is to look around and exult, but don’t forget that the square has a number of specific landmark sites, whose interiors can also be visited: the Basilica of San Marco (see listing), the Bell Tower (see listing), Palazzo Ducale (see Museums listings), the Clock Tower (see listing) and some 18th century cafés, the Florian and the Quadri, to mention the bestknown... Vaporetto lines, 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs) The Bridge of Sighs is a Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. Open daily 8.30am7pm. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 31024 (piazza San Marco). T:041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1,2, (San Marco stop). Map F4

ATTRACTIONS & MONUMENTS

Canal Grande (Grand Canal) Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice and much more. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels, and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. For centuries, the Canal has witnessed lavish parties and workshop events, religious processions, capital executions, historical regattas and epidemics. Those visiting Venice should dedicate a few hours to a cruise on the Canal, not only for the pleasure of this experience, but because it offers several of the best panoramic views of Venetian palaces. It is is almost impossible to list all of them, but for more information you can visit the www.canalgrandevenezia.it website. For excursions and boat cruises visit www.canalgrande.it, or ask your concierge.

Chiesa and Scuola Grande di San Rocco A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. Opening hours subject to change www.scuolagrandesanrocco.org. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Ghetto di Venezia Although documentation chronicles the presence of a Jewish community in Venice from before the year 1000, it was only during the 6th century, due to political unrest in Europe and a significant

When ‘Acqua Alta’ is a bookstore Initially, travelers only learnt about this amazing place in Venice via word of mouth. Later, due to its original setting and picturesque ambiance, it was discovered by photographers and the international media. Today, it’s a social media star, used as a context and backdrop for amateur photographs. It’s the Acqua Alta Libreria, a bookstore located in Campiello del Tintor, in a small courtyard on Calle Lunga Santa Maria Formosa, just steps from St. Mark’s Square. With its piles of books, gondola and bath tubs used as floating furniture, stray cats curled up on top of the stacks of books, and the smell of salt water, its name translates to ‘bookstore of high waters’ due to the store being plagued by rising waters, which flood the floors of the shop each winter. Because this is Venice, what else would you expect?

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SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge) This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it (shutterbugs permitting), but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. Originally built during medieval times as a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. Unfortunately, it is not accessible to everyone; between upward and downward slopes, it includes as many as 120 steps. San Polo, 30125 (access from Ruga dei Oresi or from Salizada Pio X). Vaporetto linea 1,2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Santa Maria della Salute Generally referred to as “La Salute,” this crown jewel of 17th-century baroque architecture proudly stands at a commercially and aesthetically important point, almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon. Designed by Longhena, whose work was influenced by Palladio, it was constructed to honor the Virgin Mary for delivering Venice from the plague of 1630. On 21 November each year, a popular religious celebration, marking the official end of the Black Death, is held here. The church is also famous for its organ concerts. Open daily 9am12noon/3pm-5.30pm. www.basilicasalutevenezia. it. Fondamenta Salute, 30123. T: 041 2743911. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5

Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari Known by the Venetians simply as ‘i Frari’, this landmark features 17 monumental altars and is the largest church in the city. This medieval church in Gothic-Venetian style, houses, in addition to two paintings by Titian, the tombs and funerary monuments of numerous famous people, including Titian, Monteverdi and Canova. chorusvenezia.org. Campo dei Frari. T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 1, 2, N (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Scala Contarini del Bovolo Palazzo Contarini is an exquisite, late Gothic building. However, what makes it such a popular attraction today, was the addition, by its architects, in 1499, of an amazing, external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural

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EDITOR'S TIP

beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. Open Tues-Sun: 10am-1.30pm/2pm6pm. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo.com. c/o Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. San Marco, 4299 (Campo Manin, Rio San Luca). T: 041 3096605. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map E4

Scuola Grande dei Carmini Housed in a 16th century palazzo, it is the seat of an ancient brotherhood and all its original furnishing and a number of priceless oil paintings have been preserved intact. The drama builds when entering the Sala del Capitolo, whose ceiling features nine exceptional canvases painted by the brotherhood’s most famous member, Giambattista Tiepolo. Open daily 11am-5pm. www.scuolagrandecarmini.it. Dorsoduro, 2616 (Campo dei Carmini, Campo Santa Margherita). T: 041 5289420. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop).

Teatro La Fenice Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. teatrolafenice.it. Ticket office T: 041 2424. San Marco, 1965 (Campo San Fantin). Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E4

MUSEUMS & EXHIBITION SITES Ca’ Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art Hosts important 19th and 20th century collections of paintings and sculptures, including masterpieces by Klimt and Chagall as well as noteworthy oeuvres by the likes of Kandinsky, Klee, Matisse and Moore. Other highlights include a rich selection of works by Italian artists and an important selection of graphics. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www.capesaro.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 2076. Vaporetto line 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3

Fondazione Cini-San Giorgio Maggiore Set against the magnificent backdrop of the Basin of St Mark, the Foundation was established in 1951 by Count Vittorio Cini to restore the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore and to create an international centre of cultural activities. The Foundation is housed in the monumental complex of the former Benedictine Monastery of San Giorgio Maggiore, a place of inestimable architectural and artistic prestige, thanks to works by several of Italy’s greatest 16th and 17th century masters. Enlarged in the 16th century by Andrea Palladio, who also designed its refectory, the church of San Giorgio Maggiore and the Cloister of Cypresses, in addition to numerous other treasures, the complex hosts an impressive collection of paintings by Jacopo Tintoretto, as well as several 16th and 17th century works of arts. Guided tours in Italian, English and French on Saturdays and Sundays. For information and booking T: 041 2201215. Full price ticket €10. www.cini.it. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 2710280. Vaporetto line 2 (Isola di San Giorgio stop). Map G6

Gallerie dell'Accademia di Venezia

VENETIAN MUSEUM HUB Following a Napoleonic decree, the Gallerie dell'Accademia were instituted as an educational adjunct to the Academy of Fine Arts. They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo, and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità, the Scuola Grande della Carità and the Canonici Lateranensi convent complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €9. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. www.gallerieaccademia. it. Dorsoduro 1050 (Campo della Carità). T: 041 5222247. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop). Map D5

Museo Correr The museum is located in the old Royal Palace in St. Mark’s Square and includes the Napoleonic

11 MUSEUMS, 1 TICKET The Museum Pass is a combined ticket that offers access to all the permanent collections of Venice’s civic and affiliated museums. The Pass is valid for 6 months and allows one entry per museum site. Full price ticket €24 > This ticket is valid for: the Museum of St Mark's Square (Doge's Palace, Museo Correr, Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Monumental Rooms of the Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana), Ca' Rezzonico-Museum of 18th-Century Art, Museum of Palazzo Mocenigo and Museum of Textiles and Costumes, Carlo Goldoni's House, Ca' Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art + Oriental Art Museum, Glass Museum in Murano, Lace Museum in Burano and Museum of Natural History.

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Info & Reservations: www.visitmuve.it Call center 848 082000. From abroad +39 041 42730892.

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Wing and the Procuratie Nuove. Built to house Teodoro Correr’s collection, it features several exhibition spaces dedicated to the art and history of Venice. These include the neo-classical rooms housing sculptures by Antonio Canova, historic collections describing the changing cityscape of Venice and, finally, the pinacoteca, boasting important masterpieces of Venetian art from its origins to the 16th century. Open daily. www.correr.visitmuve.it. San Marco 52 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2405211. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop or, San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 - 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum) Housed in the aristocratic palazzo Giustinian, on the island of Murano, the collections exhibited at the museum are arranged in chronological order: in addition to the archaeological featuring Roman remains in addition to thesection archaeological section featuring from the 1st and 2ndthe centuries A.D., you canA.D., Roman remains from 1st and 2nd centuries alsocan findalso an extensive range range of historical objet you find an extensive of historical d’art made from from Murano glass, including objet d’art made Murano glass, including importantpieces piecesproduced produced between 15th important between thethe 15th and and 20th centuries. daily. Fullticket price€10. ticket 20th centuries. OpenOpen daily. Full price €10. Joint forGlass the Glass Museum Lace Joint ticketticket for the Museum + Lace+Museum Museum €12. www.museovetro.visitmuve. €12. www.museovetro.visitmuve.it. Fondamenta it. Fondamenta Giustinian, Murano. T: 041 Giustinian, 8. Murano. T: 041 8. 5274718. Vaporetto 5274718. Vaporetto line 4.1,stop). 4.2 (Museo Murano line 4.1, 4.2 (Museo Murano Off Map stop). Off Map

are two contemporary art museums funded by the François Pinault Foundation. They host important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection, one of the world’s largest collections of contemporary art. Palazzo Grassi’s ‘Teatrino’, an adjunct to the exhibition spaces, offers an action packed calendar of conferences, concerts and screenings of an international scope. Open daily 10am7pm. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full price ticket €18 (Punta della Dogana+Palazzo Grassi). www. palazzograssi.it. T: 041 2001057. Palazzo Grassi San Marco 3231 (Campo San Samuele). Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop), 1 (Sant’Angelo stop). Map D4 • Museo Punta della Dogana Dorsoduro 2. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map F5

| SIGHTSEEING

Palazzo Mocenigo-Centro Studi di Storia del Tessuto e del Costume Formerly a patrician residence, in 1985 it became the Study Centre of the History of Fabrics and Costumes. Its exhibition spaces explore various aspects of the lives and activities of Venetian aristocrats between the 17th and 18th centuries. The exhibits on display include opulent garments and olden-day accessories, with a section dedicated to perfume. The palazzo’s furnishings and paintings have been integrated with a number of works originating from the warehouses of Venice’s civic museums. Open from 1 April to 31 October: 10am-5pm; from 1 November to 31 March: 10am-4pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €8. www.mocenigo. visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 1992. T: 041 721798. Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop). Map E3

SIGHTSEEING

Peggy Guggenheim Collection

Museo Ebraico di Venezia Palazzo Ducale This a ‘dispersed museum’; JEWISH MUSEUM

landmark attraction, a masterpiece of Gothic aA highly unusual urban complex that includes the art and aitself, repository of innumerable art and treasures, museum the Ghetto, synagogues an the Ducal Palace features a number of different ancient cemetery. It contains a small but precious architectural and ornamental details, dating collection of artifacts related to the long history from 9thincentury. Formerly the residence of thethe Jews Venice. Thanks to guided tours and government centre of the Doges, it only (in Italian and English), you can visit three not of the housesfive temporary exhibitions but can also be area’s historic synagogues, located between visited via self-guided routes thatand allow the Ghetto Vecchio (Old Ghetto) thevisitors Ghetto access (New to all Ghetto), of its rooms, superbly decorated by Nuovo and the Old Cemetery (16thartists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. 18th century) in San Nicolò del Lido. Finally,The to public entrancethe to tragedy the Doge’s Palace is through commemorate of the Second World the ‘Porta which leads to the War, there del is a Frumento’ bronze relief Holocaust Memorial in spacious council roomsNuovo. and then to the the Campo del Ghetto Fullonwards price ticket €4; exquisite rooms of the Doge’s Apartment. Other Jewish Museum + guided tour of the synagogues on this route include the prisons and :highlights full price ticket €10. www.museoebraico.it. loggias overlooking the square the lagoon. Cannaregio 2902\b. T: 041 71535.and Vaporetto lines Open daily. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. 1-2 (San Marcuola-Ghetto stop), lines 41-42-51-52 San Marco, 1 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2715911. (Ponte delle Guglie-Ghetto stop). Map D2 Vaporetto lines 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria Palazzo Ducale 5.1 or 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti), A landmark attraction, a masterpiece of Gothic stop). Map F4 art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, Palazzo Fortuny the Ducal Palace features a number of different Mariano Fortuny (Granada 1871 - Venice 1949) architectural and ornamental details, dating transformed Palazzo Pesaro degli Orfei into from the 9th century. Formerly the residence his own personal atelier for photography, and government centre of the Doges, it not only set-design, textile creations and paintings. houses temporary exhibitions but can also be The museum’s collections boasts pieces and visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors materials commissioned for important projects: access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated paintings, lighting systems, photography and by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. The ornate garments. The building is now used to public entrance to the Doge’s Palace is through host art exhibitions. The museum is open only the ‘Porta del Frumento’ which leads to the during temporary exhibitions. Open 10am-6pm. spacious council rooms and then onwards to the Closed on Tuesdays. www.fortuny.visitmuve.it. exquisite rooms of the Doge’s Apartment. Other San Marco 3958 (Campo San Benedeto). highlights on this route include the prisons and T: 041 5200995. Vaporetto line 1 (Sant’Angelo loggias overlooking the square and the lagoon. stop), 2 (San Samuele stop). Map E4 Open daily. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco,Grassi-Punta 1 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2715911. Palazzo della Dogana Vaporetto lines 1 (Vallaresso stop orrecently San Zaccaria Overlooking the Grand Canal and stop), 2 (Giardinetti), 5.1architect or 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). restored by Japanese Tadao Ando, Map F4 18th century Palazzo Grassi and Venice’s

Located on the left-hand side of the Grand Canal, just beyond the Church of the Madonna della Salute, you will come across a building that seems strange and unfinished, but is also elegant and welltended. The Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, formerly home to the prominent and powerful Venier family, was originally planned to become one of the most sumptuous buildings in Venice. Construction of the palazzo began in or around 1748, but was halted after only one floor was completed. Undeterred by its rather sketchy shape, and upon seeing the palazzo with its beautiful garden, eccentric American heiress Peggy Guggenheim, a lover of modern art, la dolce vita and men, fell in love with it. She purchased Palazzo Venier in 1948, and moved in with her collection of

contemporary art, subsequently opening both the palazzo and her extraordinary collection of artworks to the public. In 1980, after her death, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection was bequeathed to the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation, which also manages the Solomon R. Guggenheim in New York and the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao. In 1985, Palazzo Venier dei Leoni was officially converted into a museum. Today, thanks to its 20th century collection of art, it is considered one of the most important museums in Europe. The collection includes masterpieces of Cubism, Futurism, European Abstractism, American Abstract Surrealism and Expressionism, as well as works by illustrious artists like Picasso, Pollock, Kandinsky, Miró, de Chirico and Dalí. It also hosts prestigious temporary exhibitions.

the former harbour of Punta della Dogana Palazzo Grassi-Punta della Dogana Overlooking the Grand Canal and recently restored by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, Venice’s 18th century Palazzo Grassi and the former harbour of Punta della Dogana are two contemporary art museums funded by the François Pinault

Palazzo Mocenigo-Centro Studi di Storia del Tessuto e del Costume Formerly a patrician residence, in 1985 it became

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Scuola Grande di San Rocco

The headquarters of the San Rocco Brotherhood, this stunning building, to which hardly any

PH © JAN S. / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

ESSENTIALS

Venice, the floating city Some information and invaluable tips to experience the best that this magical city on water has to offer. By Simona P. K. Daviddi

talians (at least many of them), may already know that Venice… actually floats! Unlike Amsterdam or Saint Petersburg, it is not just furrowed by canals, bordered by roads and pavements. In Venice, canals are the only available communication route, bearing in mind that part of the city extends over a handful of beautiful islands that are scattered across the Lagoon. For this reason, the lagoon city can only be crossed on foot or by boat. Cars, motorbikes, bicycles and even roller skates are strictly forbidden. But this is not all. At times Venice may find itself... under water! The acqua alta phenomenon – the result of heavy rainfall and high tides - can cause the water level to rise by as much as a meter, forcing everyone to walk on raised plank walkways, or don rain boots (many shops, including tobacconists, sell disposable 44 W H E R E V E N I C E I A P R I L 2 01 9

ones) in order to cross the city’s flooded calli, campielli and salizade. Calli, campielli and salizade are Venetian words used to identify streets, squares and alleys while sestieri is the local word indicating the six districts the city is divided into: San Marco, Dorsoduro, Cannaregio, Santa Croce, San Polo and Castello. This division dates back to the 12th century and also includes areas such as La Giudecca, the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore (San Marco) and the Island of San Michele, home to the city’s cemetery (Castello). Street numbers in each sestiere start from 1 and often reach four figures, for example, one of the last numbers of the sestiere of Castello is 7,000. You need to learn them if you want to find your way through the spectacular, maze-like historic centre.

Venice also has its own network of public... and private transportation: its vaporetti, real waterbuses, are the most popular craft used by locals, which is why they are often very crowded during peak hours. These enginepowered water taxis are able to whiz across the lagoon in a heartbeat, but for those who prefer a unique, incredibly romantic experience, the famous, distinctive gondola is an absolute must. This elegant, black, one-oared rowing boat drifts gently across the water, while its gondolier sings an entire repertoire of traditional Venetian folk songs. It goes without saying that the waters of the canals are not suitable for swimming, and their banks are often slippery. Be careful not to be so focused on your selfie stick that you walk into a canal because you might be in for some rather unpleasant surprises!

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Emergency POLICE T: 113 AMBULANCE T: 118 FIRE BRIGADE T: 115 TRAFFIC POLICE T: 041 2747070 LOST AND FOUND ON VAPORETTI T: 041 2722179 24HOUR PHARMACY: check the display at

UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM VENICE

all pharmacies.

Airports INTERNATIONAL MARCO POLO DI TESSERA AIRPORT VCE  Venice’s Marco Polo Airport offers easy access to numerous destinations located in the Veneto region and in Northern Italy, the Canova di Treviso Airport (in Sant’Angelo) and main railway routes. The Marco Polo Airport is situated at a distance of 13 km from Venice (www.veniceairport.it). Trasportation from the Marco Polo Airport to the historic centre of Venice (and vice-versa): • Taxis (15 min. to Piazzale Roma, approximately €40); • water taxis (fast, private motorboats, approximately €80 ). This service is operative 24/24h (Consorzio Motoscafi Venezia www.motoscafivenezia.it. T: 041 5222303). • ATVO shuttle bus (20 min. to Piazzale Roma, €3, luggage included); • ACTV bus no. 5 (30 min. to Piazzale Roma with intermediate stops, €1, luggage excluded); • Alilaguna motorboats (a private service that uses ACTV’s network of docking stations with intermediate stops at strategic points throughout the city. Fares range from 8 to 27 euros). www.alilaguna.it. T: 041 2401701.

Trains FERROVIE DELLO STATO  Trenitalia Railway

Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com. Venice’s Railway Station (Santa Lucia) can be accessed from all main European and Italian cities. The Railway Station overlooks the lagoon and is located just steps from the stops of Venice’s main public transportation lines. E.g.: to reach St. Mark’s Square by vaporetto, take line 1 or 2. Estimated journey time from main Italian cities via high-speed trains, including Frecciarossa, Frecciabianca, Frecciargento, Italo, Thello, Eurocity.

Tourist Information APT - Azienda di promozione Turistica Città

Metropolitana di Venezia (eng.turismovenezia. it/): Palazzetto Carmagnani, San Marco 2637. T: 041 5298711. VENEZIA UNICA  The official tourism website

of the City of Venice (www.veneziaunica.it)

Tourist Card VENEZIA UNICA CITY PASS is an all-in-one pass

that offers unlimited use of public transportation, admission to tourist attractions and cultural events in the city, plus a number of other useful services. You can purchase your card online and customize your Venezia Unica City Pass to suit your individual travel needs (www.veneziaunica.it/en) exchange vouchers. Open daily 9am-4pm. T: 392 6786628.

GETTING AROUND VENICE Because it is a relatively small, compact city (a 45-minute walk from North to South) whose main points of interest are situated just a short distance from each other, visiting Venice on foot is the ideal solution. Vaporetti - An efficient network of water bus routes covers the entire city and includes transportation to the islands.The service is active 24/24h but runs less frequently between 9.30pm and 6am. Landing stages are located at central points around the city (including Piazzale Roma, Rialto, Piazza San Marco…) . Tickets - Although paper tickets are available at main embarkation points and from authorized resellers displaying the ACTV logo, electronic tickets can also be pre-purchased online. ACTV: Piazzale Roma. T: 041 2424. www actv.it. There are 6 different types of tickets, ranging from hourly tickets (€7.50 for a 75’ regular route) to a weekly pass (€60) for unlimited travel on almost all lines. TIP The boat trip from one bank of the Grand Canal to the other costs 2 euro (only cash).You can pre-purchase reducedprice tickets from Venice Connected: www. veniceconnected.com. IMOB smart cards are available at all ACTV ticket offices. Although they allow you to save on official rates, they are only recommended for long-term visits. Gondolas - These traditional craft are among the best-known tourist attraction for those wishing to experience a view of Venice that is anything but pedestrian. They are used almost exclusively by tourists (and Venetians on their wedding days). TIP Before embarking, we suggest that you check official rates

(approximately €80 for 45 minutes and €100 after 7pm). Agree on a price, time limit and singing in advance to avoid unexpected surcharges. Associazione dei Gondolieri T. 041 5285075. www.gondolavenezia.it Traghetti (Ferries) - ‘Traghetti’ are gondolas that cross the Grand Canal in 8 points. ‘Traghetti’ rides cost just €2 for non-residents (for holders of City Pass Venezia Unica or ACTV passes, rides cost 0.70) and operate almost non-stop. Four ferry services operate in Venice. Taxi - Water taxis with a cabin (private water taxis) are available for hire from 16 landing stages, including Lido Aeroporto Marco Polo, piazzale Roma, Ferrovia, Rialto and San Marco, or from your hotel. TIP Although private water taxis can be costly, they are the fastest and most practical means of getting around Venice. Ask your concierge. Car - The city can be accessed from the mainland by car, thanks to an elevated section (a 4km bridge, the longest in Italy, also known as the ‘Translagunare’), with limited parking options at garages in Piazzale Roma or on the Island of Tronchetto. Prices for 24-hour parking cost approximately €30 euro. TIP It’s advisable to travel to Mestre by car (24hour parking costs approximately €15 euro) and then continue on to Venice by public transport. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 45

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CAL

Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo

Sant'Elena

SANT'ELENA

VIALE O

Aeroporto Nicelli Venezia Lido

Teatro Verde

LÒ

Japan Pavilion

MAGGIORE

EMB

CALLE MONTELLO SAN EL ENA

VIALE

E IV NOV

United States Pavilion

VIAL

PALUDO CALLE

Rio d el Giardini

CALLE

SAN GIORGIO

VI O

Lido S. Nicolo' M

SANT’ELENA

Scuola Navale Militare "Francesco Morosini"

R E

DELL'OLIO

FERRANDO

CALLE

DE LE ERBE

NOBILI

LUNGO

CALLE DEL FORNO

NAVE

VOLTO

LA DE

DEL

FRUTARIOL

PARADISO

DEL

CALLE

DEL

CALLE

BALBI

C. DE LA MADONETA

FORNO

DEL

DONZELLA C.

CALLE

SANT’ANTONIO

LOVO DEL CALLE

CALLE

CORONA

DELLA

LEONARDO

LA SACRESTIA

C. CORONA

CALLE RIMPETTO

ALBANESI CALLE DEL

CALLE DE LE RASSE

CATERINA

L’ABAZIA Misericordi

CAMPO

SANTA

della

FOSCARINI

LUNGA

CALLE

Canale

MISERICORDIA FOND.

RACHETA LA DE

FELICE

CALLE

I ZZ PO

Dolce

PRIULI

FOORNO

Ca’

DEL

Rio

VELE DE

CALLE

APOSTOLI

CALLE

PISTOR

SANTI

DEL

VERDI

CALLE

C.SANT’ANTONIO

RIO TERRÀ

SALIZADA

SOFIA

SANTA

CAMPO

CANNAREGIO

BOMBASEI

APRILE II

CALLE

MERCERIA

STAGNERI

C. DEI

GIOVANNI

S.G. GRISOSTOMO

SALIZADA

ZULIAN SAN

BALOTE

CALLE

LE DE

PISCINA

CALLE

NUOVE

FOSCARI CALLE

CALLE DEI FUSERI

SALONI

RIO CROCE

STRETTA

SAN

AI ZATTERE FONDAMENTA

DELLE

I CASE

CASE

CAPITELO

FONDAMENTA

DEL

PIAVE

CALLE

LARG

CALLE BECCARIE DE CALLE

ROSA

CONVERTITE

VECCHIO GHETTO

CERERIA

LARGA

CALLE

ETTI,

VECCHIA

CALLE

TI, RÀ

FA R S

CALLE

CORTE

RS FA

RIO T ERÀ

CALLE

DEL

RIELLO

CALLE

TREVISAN

CAMIN

RIO

COLOMBINA CALLE

PESARO

QUERIN,

CALLE

SAN FONDAMENTA

CALLE

TRAGHETO

FONTEGO

MEGIO

DEL

RIO TERÀ CAZZA

DEL

SALITA

CALLE

STAE

FORNO DEL

SAN

D’ORO

CA’

LUCIA

CALLE

LARGA

SALIZADA

ROSA

SANTA

CALLE

GRUE

DEL

LE DE

CALLE

CARMINATI

CAMPANIEL DEL

REGINA

SALIZADA

PICCOLO

FONDAMENTA

SIMON

CALLE

BOTERI

DEI CALLE

L’ANZOLO

STUA LA

CALLE

SECONDO

CRISTO

TERA’

DEL

RIO

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

DRIO

DORSODURO SESTIERE

CALLE

SAN

MEZZO CALLE

L’ARCHIVIO

FON. DEI TOLENTINI

CAMPIELLO DEL LIBRER

CALLE

ROCCO SAN

ALBANESI DEI

CALLE

SBIACCA

STRETA

CALLE

RAGUSEI

LIPOLI

ORBI DEI

CALLE

LE DE

GIUSTINIAN

EUFEMIA BEATA CALLE

DEL

RIO TERA’ OGNISANTI

SANGIANTOFFETTI

EREMITE

FONDAMENTA

DEI CORTELLOTTI

FONDAMENTA NANI

FOSCARINI

FONDAMENTA

VENIER

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

ROTONDA

SANT'ELENA

Rio

SANT'ELENA

Parco delle Rimembranze

Santa Croce

FONDAMENTA

U I P

DEI

TERÀ

PALUDO

CROCE

VIALE PIAVE

GRANDE

RIO

CALLE

San Giuseppe di Castello

Russia Pavilion

PONTE

CALLE

CORTE

CAMPO SAN ISEPO

Giardini

S. Giorgio

FIANCO

CENETTE

PIETRO CORTELIESINA DA

CALLE

ALDI

SAN GIACOMO

IST

ACCADEMIA

R L C

IB PE GAR

ION

Lungo

SAN PIETRO DI CASTELLO

QUINTAVALLE CALLE

POLACCA

CALLE

ROSA

SALAMON

CALLE

IAN

GIUSEP

SARES

O E ANC

DOMENICO CALLE SAN

VIALE

CALL

CALLE

COPPO

SCHIAVONA

LARGA

MARAFONI

CALLE

SANT'ANNA

CALLE CORERA

CALLE

Basilica di San Pietro di Castello CALLE

CALLE TERCO

F O N D A M E N TA

C A L L E C ATA PA N

CALLE

CALLE DELL’ANGELO

DELFINA

GRIMANI

FONDAMENTA

LA CERTOSA

Vergini

FOND. SAN GIOACCHIN

OLO C A L L E G I A N B AT T I S TA T I E P

CALLE

NUOVA

DEI PRETI

COLTRERA

CALLE

de le

N TA R I O D E L L A TA NA

San Francesco di Paola BALD

OSPIZIO

CALLE

CALLE FRIZIER

GARI

EPPE

C. LOREDANA

I S ET

CALLE

ENA

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

ARS

NALE

FONDAME

IUS VIA G

Ponte

E N TA

TA A R SE

LA TANA

CROSERA

DELLA

ERBE

RAMO DE

CALLE

AMEN

TANA

CALLE

CALLE ALBERO

JUNGHANS

FOND

DE LA

Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore

Redentore O

Santissimo Redentore

CALLE MORE

del

DAM

La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale

CAMPO

CASTELLO

SAN GI ACOM

CAMPO

CALLE

VIDA

M E N TA

ISOLA DI

GIUDECCA FONDA

DEI

Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

PIETRO

PICCOLO

FON

FONDAMENTA ARSENALOTTI

CALLE

SAN

PONTE

PALLADA

SCUOLA

Giardino delle Vergini

Rio

San Martino

MOROSINA

FONDAMENTA

Le Zitelle

Zitelle

FONDAMENTA

La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA

CALLE

Punta della Dogana

CALLE

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

Arsenale di Venezia

PESTRIN

GRITTI CALLE

RUGA VECCHIA

FORNACE

SALONI

FEM

DE CALLE

CROSERA

C. VOLTO

TERRÀ

'EU

PISCINA

PIGNATER

CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO

CATECUMENI

RIO

SCUOLA

MARTIN

L’ARCO

CALLE

ONI

DEL PIOVAN

RIO TERRÀ

FONDAMENTA

DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

CALLE

SALIZADA

FONDAMENTA

Moise

DEL TRAGHETTO

MARTIRI

San

CALLE

RIDOTTO

TREDICI

Rio

CALLE

VALLARESSO

CALLE

SARTOR

FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

CALLE

S C H I AV

CALLE DELA CREA

Giudecca Palanca EN

NUOVE

CASTELLO

L’ANZOLO

BASTION

C. DEL

ASCENSIONE

DEI PUTI

CELESTIA

DONA

SCUDI

LARGA

CALLE

SEBASTIAN

CASTELLO CASE

DELLA

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI

DEL

CALLE

SAN

CALLE DEL PESTRIN

COSMO

SESTIERE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA

DE L’OGIO

CALLE

SAN ANTONIN

Spirito Santo

Sant'Eufemia

NUOVE

SECONDO SAGRADO

CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA

CORTE DEL MORION

CORTE DELLE GATE

DEGLI

VERONA

CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

San Gregorio

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

BIAGIO

CALLE

CASE

RAMO

CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA

CORTE SACCA

SAN

R I VA D EGLI

S. Zaccaria (Pieta')

DEI FORNI

SAN

CONVERTITE

San Francesco della Vigna

FRANCESCO

SANTA GIUSTINA

CALLE DEI FURLANI

CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO

San Giovanni Battista in Bragora

VONI

Arsenale

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

SAN

SALIZADA

CALLE BOSELLO

MINELLI

TERRÀ

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA

San Giovanni di Malta

CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Santa Maria della Pietà SCHIA

S. Zaccaria (Danieli)

100 m

LAVRANERI

ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

ZON

San Giorgio dei Greci

San Zaccaria

VIN CALLE DEL

Palazzo

CAVALLETTO

ORSEOLO

FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

DEL

SOTO E CORTE NOVA

Rio Del

FABBRI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

S. SAMUELE

PESTRIN

RIO

CALLE

CALLE SAN LORENZO

CALLE LION

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

DEGLI

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

CALLE DEL BASTION

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

CALLE

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

San Lorenzo

DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA

CAMPO SAN PROVOLO

CALLE

SPECHIERI

SPADARIA

DEI

DEL

CALLE

TRONCHETTO

DEL NOVA ISOLA

FONDAMENTA

ra Scomenze De

MARITTIMO

Canale

PORTO

FONDAMENTA

F. CONDULMER

DIREZIONE

MARITTIMO

CERERIA LA DE C.

PORTO

DEL CAFETIER

CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

CALLE

DEI PRETI

GATE

CALLE

DRASI

ZORZI SALIZADA

C. PIANTON

R I VA

DE LE

DEI

CALLE

C. DE LE COLONNE

DELL’OROLOGIO

PISCINA

VERONA

CALLE

MARZARIA

REDIVO

CALLE GOLDONI

CALLE

A N M

SALIZADA

SEVERO

DIREZIONE

CALLE

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

SAN

FABBRI

Marittim

LATERANO

CORTE NOVA

GIUFFA

CASSELERIA

DEI

LARGA

P U N TA S A B B I O N I Santa Maria del Pianto

DE LE TOLE

FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

MEZO

RUGA

CALLE

PISCOPIA

CARBON

Salvador

MANDOLA

AVVOCATI

TERÀ

Rio San Lorenzo

DE CALLE

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

Palazzo Ducale

FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO

LIO

DEL

MARCO

CANONICA DE LA

FONDAMENTA

SAN

San

CORTE NUOVA

San Giovanni Novo CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

SAN

CALLE

CALLE ERIZZO

SALIZADA

CALLE

Rio

RIO

CALLE

BARBARIA

SAN

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

REMEDIO DEL CALLE

LARGA

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

Basilica di San Marco

SCHIAVONI RIVA

LE VIGNOLE

NOVE

Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

CORTE TREVISAN

Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

BANDE

CORTE FRUTARIOLI

CALLE DEL FIGHER

CALLE

BALONI

CAPPELLO

SAN

San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

FORNO

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

ORBI

BEMBO

DE LE

DEI

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CALLE

MAGAZZINI

G. GALLINA

DEL

DE LE ERBE

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

TASCA

CORTE DEL FORNO

C.DEI

BIANCA CALLE

Museo Correr

SALUTE

ZATTERE

DE LA SACA

CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO

CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

LARGA

CALLE

O MUSSATO CALLE

ZULIAN

CORTE TORRETTA

ZZA

REMER

LIO

San Giuliano

SAN

PIGNOLI

PIA

O DEL

CINQUE

GRIMANI

CAVALLI

DEI

CALLE

CORNER

LUCATELLO

MARZARIA DEI

COCCO

TOSCANA

LICINI

MEZO

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

FONDAMENTA

CORTE NOVA

CALLE GABRIELI

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE

CALLE

CORTE

RUBBI

CORTE GRAGOLINA

Bacino Orseolo

Ca' Giustinian

FONDAMENTA

Spirito Santo CALLE

DEI LAVRANERI

San Gerardo

BIAGIO

NOVE

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CASTELLI

PIOMBO

D. PALLE

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

SAN

C. LARGA

CORTE

CALLE

CAPITELLO

BALOTE

GALLO

BERLENDIS

VARISCO

CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO

GIAZZO

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

CAMPO

DE LA FAVA

CALICE

DEL

TAGIAPIERA

GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE

CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO

BOTERI

CALLE

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CALLE

MIRACOLI

CALLE

Stazione

DEI

CALLE

GALIAZZO

C. DEL

SALVADOR

MARZARIA

CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN

C.DE

STRAZZE TERÀ RIO

CARRO

PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE

San Moisè

Salute

PONTE

SACCA SAN

DEI

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

WIDMANN

RIO

Teatro Malibran

SALIZADA

SAN

DELLE

SAN

DEL CALLE

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

CORTE BAROZZI

FONDAMENTE

LARGA

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

C O RT E B ATA G I A

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

SAN CANZIAN

CAMPO

C. DEL

SABION

FRUTARIOL

DEL

FREZZERIA

MOISE’

SA PISCINA

XXII MARZO

CASTELLO

CALLE

MADONA

zera

ORESI

DE LA

FORNO

RAMO

DEL

RIELO

SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE

LORENZO

FONDAMENTA

C. SAN

SCOAZZERA DE LA

LE PAZIENZE

LARGA

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

SESTIERE

DEI

PARANGON

RUGA

CALLE

DOLERA

DIETRO

FABBRICHE

CALLE

C. DE

RIO TERA’

L' ARZERE

GUARDIANI

TODESCHI

CALLE

CANAL RIO TERA’

C. DEI

VAPORETTO

GALIZZI

STURION

ROSSA

nde Canal Gra

FONDAMENTA

RAGUSEI

FONDAMENTA

CROSERA

CALLE

TRAGHETTO

CALLE

Palazzo Genovese

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

DEL FORNO

CALLE DEL NAVARO

FONDAMENTA

RAMO

S.Canciano CALLE

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

DE PISCINA

LA CHIESA

DRIO

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

CORTE DEL

MARZARIA

San Salvador

MAGAZEN

DEL

CALLE

CORTE

MICHIEL

VENEZIA

CALLE

CAL

FRUTARIOL

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

LUCA SAN CALLE

CALLE

SAN LIO

MAZZINI CORTE

TEATRO DEL CALLE

LOCANDE CALLE ASSASSINI

San Fantin

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

CHIESA

SALIZADA

SPIRITO

VENIER

CORTE DEL REMER

BARBA

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

FONTEGO

PIO

LARGA

SAN SALVADOR

TEATRO

PATERNIN

MANDOLA

TERÀ

RIO

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

Santa Maria del Giglio

DELLA

CAPPUZZI

ZATTERE

SANTO

DEL

VOLTI

C. DEL

SALIZZADA

CALLE

SAN CALLE CALLE

Teatro la Fenice Maria del Giglio

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto

Rialto

CORTE DEL

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

CAMPO MANIN

TEATRO

MARCO

CAFETIER

CAOTORTA

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

ALLO

CALLE CALLE

SARTORI

TERÀ

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

ZEN

RIO

SALIZADA

San Giovanni Grisostomo

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

San Silvestro

Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)

S.Silvestro

DEL

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

San MaurizioSanta

Canal Grande

C.SANT'AGNESE

NANI

AI GESUATI

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

FONDAMENTA

FOND.

PRIULI

NOVA

PESCARIA

DEI

DEL

DEL PISTOR

CALLE

CATERINA

S.ANDREA

FONDAMENTA

Santa Sofia

STRADA

DEL

CALLE

CAZZIOLA

TRAGHETTO

CALLE

ZATTERE

Zattere

Giudecca Hilton

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

CAMPO DELLA

RAVANO

DEL

RUGHETA

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

CALLE

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

Santo Stefano

CAMPO PISANI

CATENE

SANTA

FOND.

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

STUA

BECARIE

DEL SOL

SAN BOTEGHE

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione

CALLE

CAMPO DE LA

CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI

CAMPIELLO

Palazzo Grimani

San Beneto San Luca CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

FONDAMENTA

NOVE

CALLE

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

MUTI

CAMPO SAN APONAL

DEL

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

CA’

BOTA

Sant’Aponal DEL

CALLE

NARISI FOND.

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

San Vidal CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

San Trovaso FONDAMENTA

CARAMPANE

de r an

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

CROSERA

FALIER

BONLINI

Palazzo Fortuny

DI SAN MARCO

SAMUELE

Palazzo Loredan CALLE

OGNISANTI

DEL

San Felice

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

al G

SESTIERE

S. SALIZADA

CARROZZE

CALLE

S. Samuele

LONGO

FONDAMENTE

FONDAMENTA

VENDRAMIN

CALLE

DE DE

CARAMPANE

TERÀ

PERDON

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

TRAPOLIN

CA'

CALLE CALLE

RIO

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

Can Sant'Angelo

VECCHIA

LEZZE

San Cassiano CAMPO SAN CASSAN

L’AGNELLA

Palazzo Querini-Dubois

CA’ CORTE

Abazia della Misericordia D

Rio Nuovo

FOND.

Santa Fosca

TIOZZI

CORTE DEL TEATRO

CAMPO SAN POLO

CALLE RAMO

PONTE

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

DEI

SCALETER

Palazzo Giustinian Persico S. Toma' SX

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia

BEATE GIULIANA

SACCA

FISOLA

LARGA

CALLE

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

DEL

San Tomà

Ca' Rezzonico

Accademia

ZATTERE AL

CALLE CHIESA

FONDAMENTA

S.Stae

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

CALLE CA’BONVINCINI

BOLDO

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI CALLE BERNARDO

FODAMENTA

S. Basilio

DELLA

TRON

SAN

MORETTI

CONTARINI

dell'Orto

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

CALLE

DEL

TENTOR

MEZO

CAMPO

ZANE

CROSERA

Ca' Rezzonico

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENTO CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

CALLE

TABACCHI

CALLE

SAN BOLDO

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

SAN POLO

CAMPO DEI FRARI

CALLE

San Barnaba

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

NUOVA

PRETI

L’ASEO

Madonna

MORI

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

CAMPO SAN STIN

TOMÀ

CAMPO SAN ROCCO

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

DONZELA

CALLE

TINTORETTO

DEI

CALLE

FOMO

SAN

CALLE

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

RENIER

DEL

ALE

PAPADOPOLI

TERÀ

Basilica dei Frari

San Rocco

Muneghete

CALLE

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

DE OGNISANTI

NIE

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

CALLE

RIO

CALLE

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

PANTALON

San Pantalon

NUOVO

Chiesa di Ognissanti

FONDAMENTA

DEI

M .DA

La Maddalena

Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

L’ISOLA

OCHE CALLE

OCHE

LATTE

LACA

FONDARIA

CIMESIN

BASEGO

RIO

CAMPO DEI CARMINI

CALLE DE LA LACA

RAMO

CIMESIN

SAN

CALLE

Carmini

Santa Maria dei Carmini

À D E

SOTOPORTEGO

C. CAMPAZZO DE

CALLE

Rio

SALIZADA

del

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

FO de Servi N

TER

TOLENTINI

FONDAMENTA

DEI

Bacino

DE LA VIDA

C.VENZATO

CALLE

CALLE DELL'OLIO

FON.

Canale

TERA’

RAMO

CALLE ORSETTI

TINTOR

BESAGIO

Misericordia

RIO DIETRO TERÀ LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

DEL

SALIZADA

della

Rio

San Giacomo dall'Orio CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO CALLE

DEI

LIBERTÀ

VECCHIO BERGAMASCHI

SIMEONE LUNA

MINOTTO

Magazen

CALLE

Rio

DORSODURO

San Sebastiano SAN

CALLE CAZZA

FONDAMENTA

CANAL

DEI AMAI

RAMO

Del

Rio dei Tolentini

FONDAMENTA

CALLE CONTARINA

BRIATI

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

RUGA BELA

BARI

DELLA

SAN

TRAGHETTO CALLE

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

CALLE SAVIO

RUGA VECCHIA

CAMPO

DEI

Angelo Raffaele

DORSODURO

Rio

CALLE

NUOVA

CERERI

FONDAMENTA

LARDONI

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola RIO

LARGA

PONTE PROCURATIE

DEI

CALLE

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

DEL REMER

BIASIO

BARI

CALLE

LUNGA

Scomen

CALLE

RIZZI FONDAMENTA

FONDAMENTA

DE L’OGIO

VECCHIO

RIVA

LISTA

San Simeone Profeta

Soranzo Cappello

DE CAMPO

San Nicola da Tolentino

Rio

PENSIERI

DEI FONTEGHERI

CALLE

I CALLE ORSETT

DEI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

ICO

NOVA

MISERICORDIA

SANT'ANDREA

FONDAMENTA

TERÀ

MADONA

SAN MICHELE

FONDAMENTA

della

CAMPO FONDAMENTA DEI MORI

San Marcuola

CAMPIELLO

nde l Gra Cana Riva de Biaso

CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO

NAZARIO Palazzo FONDAMENTA SAURO Soranzo Capello GARZOTTI

Giardino di Palazzo

CASE CORTE

CALLE

C. LAVADORI TERÀ

TABACCHI

RIO

MIS

RIO

NUOVE

CROCE

Giardino Papadopoli

PIAZZALE ROMA RIO

FABBRICA FONDAMENTA

E DEL PISTO

MUNEGHE

CROCE

CALLE

CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

STRADA

SPAGNA

FONDAMENTA

Ferrovia

CORTE

Sant'Andrea

SANT'ANDREA

NICOLO’ SAN

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CALLE

CALL

San Leonardo

San Geremia DI LISTA TERÀ RIO

SCALZI

DEI Ponte degli Scalzi

FONDAMENTA

San Simeon Piccolo

Ferrovia

LA FO.

TERÀ

MARTA

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

CALLE SAN BASILIO

EONARDO

SAN LEONARDO

CALLE TRAGHETTO

CALLE

CAVALLETTI

Santa Maria di Nazareth

P.le Roma

Ponte della Costituzione

RIO

People Mover Venezia

SANTA FONDAMENTA

MATTA DI CA’

CALLE CASE NUOVE

Madonna dell'Orto

MADONNA

Rio

LER

People Mover Venezia

S A N TA

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

CALLE

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

DELL'ORTO

S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO

CAMPO SAN GEREMIA

PRIULI

Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia

ITTICO MERCATO DIREZIONE

ER LE P

TRONCHETTO

CAMPIELLO P I AV E

FONDAMENTA

Museo Ebraico CAL

A E M

CALLE

DEL

CANNAREGIO

CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO

NOVA

San Girolamo

ISOLA

TRONCHETTO

Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo

Sant'Alvise

CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E

INE

DEL

CALLE

SAVORGNAN

MATTIA

PISCINA

SAN

L’ARCO

CALLE

N G IR

SAN

Palazzo Nani FONDAMENTA

VECCHIA

LLO

RUGA

Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo

DA PONTE

B AT

DOGE

CALLE

FORNER

CAMPIELLO TRAGHETTO

DEL

SEBASTIANO

CALLE

CANNAREGIO

di Cannaregio

CAMPO SAFFA

Parcheggio Bus Turistici

VENEZIA

di Sant'Alvise

Sensa

COLETTI

Canale

GIOBBE

People Mover Venezia

della

CARLO

FONDAMENTA

SAN

San Giobbe

BRAGADIN

NUOVE

Rio

FOND.A

Ponte dei Tre Archi

FONDAMENTA

VENIER FONDAMENTA

PENITENTI

CANNAREGIO

DEL SABION

LARGA

FONDAMENTA

CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO

CALLE

Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze

ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI

CALLE

Santa Maria delle Penitenti

CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER

FONDAMENTA

F O N D A M E N TA

TA’

CORTE

SANT'AGNESE

Parco

BRAGADIN

PISCINA

NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO

ISOLA DELLE TRESSE

FAUSTA

Chiesa di San Michele in Isola

FONDAMENTA

INCURABILI

CALLE ZUCCHERO

RIA

C A AN

VI SC

MA VIA VIA

DAN

DOL

O E NR

ICO

MOCENIGO

VIA

V I A L E PA N T O

ISOLA DI SAN LAZZARO DEGLI ARMENI

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VIA VETTOR PISANI

E C I PA

O PA RT

T TA

ORS

VIC

ZAR

ISA

VIA

ILEI

AQU

VIA

R MA

N TA

S TA

VIA

HIE

MIC

Tempio Votivo Della Pace Di Venezia

VIA

SAN MICHELE

SAN SERVOLO

S. Servolo

ISOLA LA GRAZIA

RIV

IER

CIP

A S A

Hundertwasser' Garden

VIA

N N IC

CALLE ORTI

VIA CAN DIA

Festival Danza Orientale e Danza del Ventre Venezia

VIA

SANDRO

O SE LV

VIA

ENIC

GALLO

DOM

GALLIPOLI

VIA

Convento Delle Figlie Del Cuore Di Gesu'

LIDO DI VENEZIA 100 m

VIA

SANDRO

ISOLA

GALLO

DI LEMNO

Monastero Armeno Mechitarista

ISOLA SAN CLEMENTE

LAZZARETTO VECCHIO

Palazzo del cinema del Lido di Venezia VI

ISOLA DELLE ROSE

M O M EL

Hotel Excelsior Venice

R AT

PIZZAMANO

VIA

O LL

PIE

VIA

S. Antonio Di Padova

I VI

MA O LM IE NG

CRISTOFORO

VIA

ISOLA SAN SPIRITO

COLOMBO

VIA

SAN

SAN PIGAFETTA

PIGAFETTA

LIDO

I S E

O LL GA

A VI

O VA

I E

VIA

VIA FRANCESCO

PEZZANA

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VIA M

GIOVANNI ON

PIVIDOR

A VI CO OC AM AL M

CC O AM AL M A VI

A RIN CA TE

CA LLE

AR INI

NTA

CATE NE

PIAZZA DELLE ERBE

ERÀ RIO T

O NI RD DE E

EL ST E LL

RO UE SQ L

I NT

n ti

DI CA

ic a

IM EN

DE TA

ELLO CAST

GIUSTINA

TI I OR GL DE LL E

PIETA’

EL LO

AMEN

TA A R SE

FONDAME

E N N LO O C LE AL

San Giuseppe di Castello O EP IO N IS ON SA 'ANT NT SA DO PALU LLE CA DO PALU LLE CA

TERÀ RIO

AL E

Russia Pavilion

G IA

E SA BO

INO

SS PA

Sant'Elena

F. LL

Parco delle Rimembranze VI

1 BASILICA DI SAN MARCO

6 PONTE DI RIALTO

11 LIDO DI VENEZIA

2 PALAZZO DUCALE

7 GALLERIE DELL’ACCADEMIA

12 THE GHETTO

3 CANAL GRANDE

8 SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO

13 MURANO

4 PONTE DEI SOSPIRI

9 CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE

14 BURANO

Teatro Verde

5 TEATRO LA FENICE

ENA

TTO

ERA

GEN

ENA

SAN T'EL

Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo

T'EL ENTA SAN

CAL

FON DAM

E VIAL E PIAV

L DE

CAR

PIZ

C. D EL

ON LL E

S MA

Japan Pavilion

Top in Town

XXIV M AGG

CALLE MONT E PA S U B I O

MAGGIORE

SAN GIORGIO

U I P

United States Pavilion

VIALE

M CA

CC A

Le Zitelle

Zitelle

L EL

LA E PO

TT E

ION

ISOLA DI

BB O

O TR A E PIE SIN RT LIE CO DA

LL E

Giardini

SA IST

E US

S. Giorgio

R L C

EL CA LL

ERA

O E ANC

CAMPO SAN ISEPO

Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore

C A L L E C ATA PA N

CALL

ALDI

SANT'ANNA

CALLE CORERA

IB PE GAR

IAN

GIUSEP

SARES

CALLE

DOME NICO CALLE SAN

Punta della Dogana

I S E

VIALE

PO E COP

IAVO E SCH

CALL

F O N D A M E N TA

CALL

SALUT E

N FOND. SAN GIOACCHI

OLO C A L L E G I A N B AT T I S TA T I E P

BALD

GELO CALLE DELL’AN

GARI

AM ON

OS E CR

EPPE

A C. LOREDAN

San Francesco di Paola

RERA

DELFINA CALLE

GRIMANI CALLE

VA E NUO

CALLE FRIZIER

CALL

ESSO

PRET E DEI

LAR

E COLT

CALL

VAL

oise

IUS VIA G

N TA R I O D E L L A TA NA

CALL

CALLE

RTIRI

I MA

100 m

SAL

FO ND

LA TANA

Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

CAL

V TA

RAMO DE

TAN A

FONI

DE LA

MARA

CALL E

CAM PO

SAN PIETRO DI CASTELLO

CALLE TERCO

NALE

P IE

VID A

EN TA

A RO SA

CALLE MONTELLO SAN EL ENA

FOND

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La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale

Basilica di San Pietro di Castello CA LL

EMB

ENA

SAL IZAD

ARS

A STR ETA

DE I FO RN I

E N TA

CALL

ION

DEI FORNI

Arsenale

ini

CA LL E

CA LLE

DAM

Rio de San Gerola

DEI ARSENALOTTI

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FONDAMENTA

FON

FONDAMENTA

DE L CA GN OL ET O

CAL LE

Verg

ONI

CAL LE

S C H I AV

CA LL E

PES CAR IA

CALLE DEL DOSE

R I VA D EGLI

San Martino

CALLE DEL FORNO

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RS EN

E LL CA

CR OSE RA

RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA

E IV NOV

delle ale Can

de le

Arsenale di Venezia

RIN ST PE

L’A

CA LL E

E DE LL CA

CALLE DE LA PIETA’

NATER PIG

Giardino delle Vergini

Rio

VIAL

am Fond

La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

NDAM ENTA

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

Arsenale di Venezia

Rio d el Giardini

Nuo

L’AN ZO LO

enta

CALLE ZORZI

GRECI

E CA ST

CASTELLO

DO NA

M AG NO CAL LE

DEL TE DEUM

DELLA

CALLE

CALLE DEL FO

PEL LO O CAP

CALLE DEI

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

Ca' Giustinian

IER

FO DE ND AM L CR EN TA IS TO

UCC INE

SANTA

E CAPP

CAL

DE LL A CO RO NA

LEONAR DO

C. COR ONA

CALLE RIMPET TO LA SACRES TIA

CALLE DE LE RASSE

ALBANESI CALLE DEL

SA NT ’A NT ONI O

CA LL E PIS CIN A SA N ZU LIA N CALLE BALB I

RAM

DE LL E CA O

ALL

C. DE LA MADONETA

L DO

DEL

DIS

UT AR

L VO

NA VE

E DE

STA GNERI

C. DEI

BA LO TE LE

FONDAMENTA

SALIZADA

I SE M BA

BO E

AP II

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LO VO

CA LL E DE

CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO

S. Zaccaria (Pieta')

S. Zaccaria (Danieli)

HIA RUGA VECC

CENS

VO HIA

N SA

San Giovanni Battista in Bragora

VONI

LE ST

O C. VOLT

A AS

DIC

OTT LE RID

LE TRE

CAL

I SC

A IN SC PI

CO L’AR

DE ADA SALIZ

CALLE TERAZZ ERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Santa Maria della Pietà SCHIA

CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO

LARG

MO GL A DE RIV

A N M

DEGLI

LE CAL

N TI AR M

DEL PIOVAN FONDAMENTA

LLE

an Moisè

SA LO

R I VA

N IO ST BA

Museo Correr

San Zaccaria

ANT ONIN

LL A

L DE

Palazzo Ducale

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

VIN CALLE DEL

OLO

2 4

CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

SALIZAD A SAN

CAL LE

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI

CALLE DEI FURLANI

San Giorgio dei Greci

LL E

E LL CA

AL CAV

ENTA FONDAM

CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA

I UD I SC GL DE LLE CA

DEL

l Palaz

SAN

CALLE LION

IN MAR DE L’OS

CAMPO SAN PROVOLO FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

RI BB FA

ZZA

San Giovanni di Malta

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

C. PIA NTON

SOTO E CORTE NOVA

DEI

Rio De

LE CAL

PIA

I PRET

E NUO

SE ST

O DE L’OGI CALLE

CORTE DELLE GATE

CALLE BOSELLO

IA AR AD SP IO OG OL LL’OR IA DE AR RZ MA

O DIV RE O

ONI CA

CORTE DEL MORION

SALIZADA SANTA GIUSTIN A

E GAT

I ER HI EC I SP E DE LL CA

LE CAL

Basilica di San Marco

E DEI CALL

ENT A CAS

MO SA SE CO GR AD ND O O

CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA

CORTE SACCA CALLE SAN LORENZO

DAM

CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA

ASI DR

RI BB I FA DE

MAR

LA CAN LE DE

CAL

San Francesco della Vigna

SCO

DE LE

E LL

GA SAN

NCE

LLE CA

Bacino Orseolo

CALLE DEL FIGHER

LE LAR

ZI A ZOR IZAD SAL

San Giovanni Novo CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

San Lorenzo

FRA

IZADA SAL

CA AN E BI LL CA

LO EL PP CA

ZON

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

RO VE N SE SA

CAL

NI LO EI BA C.D

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

LE CAL

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

IO ED M L RE DE

DEL FORNO

CORTE TORRETTA

CORTE NUOVA

CORTE

E DE LL CA

O EZ M

FA GIUF

AG GR E C. LE COLONNE ZZ DE RA RÀ TE O RI O LL GA N SA E LL CA CAMPO SAN GALLO

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

CORTE

FRUTARIOLI

LE SAN

CALLE ERIZZO

LE DE CAL

FON

CAL

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA

Rio San Lorenzo

A SC TA

CAMPO SANTA TIER GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

CALLE

FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO

E DEL CAFE

CORTE NOVA

GA RU

O AT USS M

CALL

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

TA EN AM ND FO

LE CAL

IA ER EL SS CA

INA

E’

LICINI

DE LE BAN

San Giuliano

PRIMO RINA AMOCONTA TE

I OR

L IO

R io

IOL

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

CORTE

RUBBI

LUC C. ATE DE TRAMONTIN LLO L TA M GIA AR PI ZA ER C. LE RI A DE A BA SA I PI LO N GN TE ZU OL LIAN I

SAL VAD OR

CA LL E DE MAR ZA M EZ RIA O DE L CA PITE LL O CORTE

CORTE GRAGOLINA

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CORTE

C. DE

LL E

LIO

DE LA FAVA

CALICE

DE LE TOLE

SA N GIFO OVNDAM AN EN NI LA TA TE RA NO

CORTE TREVISAN

SA N

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

AD A

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione C. LARG A

CAMPO

C. DEL

San Salvador

AZEN

D. PA LLE

SAN

MA RZA RIA

L IZ

CORTE

PIO

SABION

AN SALVADOR

DE L GO

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

SA LIZ C. DE L GA LIAZZO

BARB ARIA

ZZO

CAMPO SAN LIO

CORTE DEL

Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

GIA

Santa Maria del Pianto

CA LLE

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

LLE

ARTIN

MAZ ZINI

CA C.M

CALL

DE LE ERBE

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

CAMPO NO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

REM

PIO

TEG

FOR

DEL CO O

SA LIZZ AD A

FON

i M e

nd G. GA LLI

LE DEL

CALL E

CALLE CAVALL I

TEL

CAL LE MAS SA C. DE LE MOS CHE TE

Teatro Malibran

LE CAS

LE MUR

CAL

AN A

CAL

IERA

BR ESS

LL CA

LE VEN

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

CA LLE

San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

DE UO

LAR

R io

DR IO CA LLE LE SC

CA LLE

VENEZIA

D IS

TE ST A

CAL

O RN FO

RIO

CA LLE GA BR IEL

E DE

CA LL

CORTE NOVA

CA VE RRLLE DE L OC CH IO

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA

C ALL E

CAN ZIAN

S.G. GRISOS TOMO

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN VA RI SC O

LE COC

C. DEL

CAL

I B O

CAL LE

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

S.Canciano

Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi te alto

DEL

omo to

METO

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

A SAN

RIO TER RÀ

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

C O RT E B ATA G I A

AR NN

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

TI ET OR EM LL CA

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

SAL IZAD

ST EL LA

SAN TI

RAMO

TAR IOL

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

CA LL E

APO STO

A FRU

CAL

À BA RB

San Giovanni Grisostomo

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

AZZ O

I CO

lc e

TER

PIS TO

E VO LT

E VE NI

C AL

i Ap os

CA LL

SART ORI

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

i ia e

to li ZE

Sa nt

de i

’D o

GA RU

R io

RIO

DE L

CORTE DEL REMER

AD A

CA LL

SA LIZ

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

RI NA

AZE N

R io

DE LA PIETA’

DE L MAG

ND RE

BA N DI

. S.A

CAL LE

C.S AN T’A NT ON IO

angelica ana

CA LL

Santi Apostoli

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

E FO SC

SA A NG LU E LL AM

FERRUCCIO PARRI

Chiesa S. Maria Assunta

FOND .

LA RG A

ALVISOPOLI

VIA

CA LLE

se A ric or dia

VIA

MALAMOCCO

CA ND

FO ND

ISOLA POVEGLIA

R I VA G I O VA N N I D I A C O N O

SE NA

VI A

SAN

T' EL

EN A

SANT’ELENA

Scuola Navale Militare "Francesco Morosini"

DI SAN ROCCO

10 SAN GIORGIO MAGGIORE

15 TORCELLO

S. Servolo

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5 STARS DELUXE (L) & 5 STARS Aman Canal Grande Venice Resort Hotel – San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo Baiamonte) • E4 Baglioni Hotel Luna – San Marco, 1243 • F5 Bauer Palazzo (L) – San Marco, 1459 • F5 Belmond Hotel Cipriani (L) – Giudecca, 10 • F6 Ca’ Sagredo (L) – Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99 • E3 Danieli – Castello, 4196 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • F5 Excelsior Venice (L) – Lungomare Marconi, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Grand Hotel Dei Dogi – Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto) • E2 Hilton Molino Stucky (L) – Giudecca, 810 • C6 JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa (L) – Isola delle Rose – (Laguna di San Marco) • Off Map Londra Palace – Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 Metropole – Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149 • G4 Palladio Hotel & SPA – Giudecca, 33 • F5 San Clemente Palace Kempinski (L) – Isola di San Clemente, 1 • Off Map SINA Centurion Palace – Dorsoduro, 173 • F5 The Gritti Palace – Campo Santa Maria del Giglio • E5 4 STARS & LUXURY RESIDENCES A La Commedia – San Marco, 4596 • E4 Ai Cavalieri di Venezia – Castello, 6108 (Calle Borgolocco) • F4 Ai Mori d’Oriente – Cannaregio, 3319 (Fondamenta Sensa) • E2 Ai Reali di Venezia – Castello, 5527 (Campo della Fava) • F4 Best Western Premier Collection CHC Continental – Cannaregio, 166 (Rio Terà Lista di Spagna) • D3 Biasutti Hotel – Via Dandolo, 29 – (Lido) • Off Map Bisanzio – Riva degli Schiavoni-Calle della Pietà, 3651 • G4 Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4488 (Calle Goldoni) • F4 Bucintoro – Castello, 2135/a • H5 Carlton On The Grand Canal – Santa Croce, 578 • C3 Carnival Palace – Fondamenta di Cannaregio, 929 • C2 Cavalletto & Doge Orselo – San Marco, 1107 (Sotoportego del Cavalletto) • F4 Colombina – Castello, 4416 (Calle del Remedio) • F4 Concordia – San Marco, 367 (Calle Larga San Marco) • F4 Duodo Palace – San Marco, 1887/1888 (Calle Minelli) • D3 Firenze – San Marco, 1490 • F5 Foscari Palace – Cannaregio, 4200/1/2 (Campo Santa Sofia) • E3 Grande Albergo Ausonia & Hungaria – Gran Viale S. M. Elisabetta, 28 (Lido) • Off Map Le Boulevard – Granviale S. Maria Elisabetta, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Le Ville del Lido – Via Bragadin, 38 (Lido) • Off Map Liassidi Palace – Castello, 3405 (Ponte dei Greci) • G4 L’Orologio Venezia – San Polo, 1777 (Riva del l’Ogio) • E3 Locanda Vivaldi – Castello, 4150/52 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 Monaco & Grand Canal – San Marco, 1332 (Calle Vallaresso) • F5

Nani Mocenigo Palace – Dorsoduro, 960 (Fondamenta Nani) • D5 NH Collection Palazzo Barocci –San Marco, 3878/A (Corte dell’Albero) • E4 NH Rio Novo – Dorsoduro, 3489/E-C (Calle Larga Ragusei) • C4 Palace Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4680 (Calle dei Fabbri) • F4 Palazzetto Pisani Boutique Resort – San Marco, 2814 • E5 Palazzo Giovanelli – Santa Croce, 2070 (Campo San Stae) • E3 Palazzo Guardi – Dorsoduro, 995 • D5 Palazzo Stern – Dorsoduro, 2792/A • D5 Palazzo Veneziano – Dorsoduro, 1413 • D5 Pesaro Palace – Cannaregio, 3935 (Calle Ca’ D’oro) • E3 Petit Palais Venice – Lungomare Marconi, 54 (Lido) • Off Map Principe – Cannaregio, 146 (Lista di Spagna) • D3 Quattro Fontane – Via Quattro Fontane, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Rialto – San Marco, 5149 (Riva del Ferro) • F4 Royal San Marco – Santa Croce, 578 • F4 Russo Palace Hotel – Riviera San Nicolò, 11/a (Lido) • Off Map Ruzzini Palace – Castello, 5866 (Campo di Santa Maria Formosa) • F4 San Marco Palace – Piazza San Marco, 875 • F4 Santa Chiara – Santa Croce, 548 • C3 Santa Marina – Castello, 6068 (Calle Seco Marina) • F4 Saturnia & International – San Marco, 2399 • E5 SINA Palazzo Sant’Angelo – San Marco, 3878/B – 3488 • E4 Starhotels Splendid Venice – San Marco, 760 (San Marco Mercerie) • F4 Torre Dell’ Orologio - San Marco Luxury Venice – San Marco, 288 • F4 Una Hotel Venezia – Cannaregio, 4173 (Ruga Do Pozzi) • F3 Villa Laguna – Via Sandro Gallo, 6 – (Lido) • Off Map Villa Mabapa – Riviera San Nicolò, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Villa Pannonia – Via Doge Michiel, 48 – (Lido) • Off Map BOUTIQUE & CHARME HOTELS TOP Ai Due Principi – Castello, 4972 (Fondamenta de l'Osmarin) • G5 Aqua Palace – Castello, 5492/a (Calle de la Malvasia) • F4 Ca Maria Adele – Dorsoduro, 111 • E5 Ca’ Nigra Lagoon Resort – Santa Croce, 927 • D3 Canal Grande – Santa Croce, 932 • D3 Dei Dragomanni – San Marco, 2711 • E5 Flora – San Marco, 2283/a • E4 Heureka – Cannaregio, 3534 • E2 La Calcina – Dorsoduro, 789 (Zattere) • D6 Moresco – Dorsoduro, 3499 (Fondamenta del Passamonte) • D4 Palazzetto Madonna – San Polo, 2902 (Calle del Scaleter) • D4 Palazzina G – San Marco, 3247 (Ramo Grassi) • D4 Palazzo Abadessa – Cannaregio, 4011 (Calle Priuli) • E3 Palazzo Barbarigo sul Canal Grande – San Polo, 2765 (Calle Corner) • E4 Palazzo Paruta – San Marco, 3824 • E4

Palazzo Priuli – Fondamenta de l'Osmarin, 4979 • G4 Palazzo Venart – S. Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron) • E3 CLASSIC Ad Place Venice – San Marco, 2557/A (Fondamenta della Fenice) • E5 Al Ponte Antico – Cannaregio, 5768 (Calle dell’Aseo) • F3 Antiche Figure – Santa Croce, 687 • C3 Antico Doge – Cannaregio, 5643 • F3 Arcadia – Cannaregio, 1333 (Rio Terà S. Leonardo) • D2 Belle Arti – Dorsoduro, 912/A (Rio Terrà Foscarini) • D5 Bloom B&B – San Marco, 3470 • E4 Ca’ del Campo – San Marco, 511 (Campo della Guerra) • F4 Ca’ Gottardi – Cannaregio, 2283 • E3 Ca’ Pagan – San Marco, 3268 (Calle delle Carrozze) • D4 Casa Verardo – Castello, 4765 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo) • F4 Charming House – Dorsoduro, 724 (San Vio) • E5 Corte di Gabriela – San Marco, 3836 (Calle Avvocati) • E4 Le Isole – Castello, 4661 (Campo San Provolo) • G4 Locanda Ca’ del Brocchi – Dorsoduro, 470 (Rio Terà San Vio) • E5 Locanda de la Spada – San Marco, 2488/a (Campo Santa Maria del Giglio) • E5 Locanda Fiorita – San Marco, 3457/a (Campiello Novo) • E4 Novecento – San Marco, 2683 (Calle Dose) • E5 Oltre il Giardino – San Polo, 2542 (Fondamenta Contarini) • D4 Palazzo Barbarigo sul Canal Grande – San Polo, 2765 (Calle Corner) • E4 OUT OF TOWN 4 STARS & LUXURY RESIDENCES Alexander – Via Forte Marghera , 193/C – Mestre (Ve) Antony Hotel – Via Orlanda, 182 – Mestre (Ve) Antony Palace Hotel – Via E. Mattei, 26 – Marcon (Ve) Best Western Hotel Airvenice – Via G. Pascoli, 1 – Quarto d’Altino (Ve) Best Western Hotel Bologna – Via Piave, 214 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Plus Quid Hotel Venice Airport – Via Terraglio, 15 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Titian Inn Hotel Venice Airport – Via Orlanda, 240/244 – Tessera (Ve) Courtyard by Marriott Venice Airport – Via Triestina, 170 – Tessera (Ve) Hilton Garden Inn Venice Mestre San Giuliano – Via Orlanda, 1 – Mestre (Ve) Leonardo Royal Hotel Venice Mestre - Via Ca’ Marcello, 6 – VENIC Mestre (Ve) E CITY GUIDE NH Laguna Palace – Viale Ancona, 2 – Mestre (Ve) Villa Barbarich – Via Molino Ronchin, 1 – Mestre (Ve)

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