Where Venice July 2017

Page 1

ALL YOU CAN DO IN THE CITY

JULY 2017 THE MONTHLY GUIDE TO

Venice

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SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | ENTERTAINMENT | SHOPPING | DINING | MAPS

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Venice July 2017 18

SHOPPING

51

the guide

SIGHTSEEING

René Caovilla

20 SHOPPING

Timeless designer duo Dolce&Gabbana has chosen Palazzo Torres as the brand's new Venetian home

BAGARON C A M PA LT O MESTRE

12

36 DINING

FOCUS

Head to AMO, the new exclusive Venetian café/restaurant at the T Fondaco dei Tedeschi department store, located just steps from the Rialto bridge.

Parco San Giuliano

ISOLA D

46 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS

Step into the Olivetti Showroom, a truly unmissable venue for connoisseurs of 20th century architecture

E

OND

OSS

ROT

CAN

LA

GA

DE

LAR

LE

LE

CAL

CAL

O

ITEL

CAP

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E DEL

A

HIA

ROS

CC

GA

VE

LA

DE

CALLE

NA

ERI

stol

i

CALLE

ti Apo San

I

dei Rio

DE LA PIETA’

DE L MAGAZEN

DON

CALLE

CALLE

COR DEI LE

LLA

CAL

STE

S.G. GRISOSTOMO

LE STEL LA

CALL E

BAN DI CAL LE

NO

FOR DEL LE CAL

TEST A E DE

CALL

DOSE E DEL CALL

O

NAVE

IOL

VOLT

LA

SO

TAR

ADI

DE

DEL

FRU

C.

PAR

LE

DEL

DEL

CAL

C.

LE

SAN T’AN TON IO

CAL LE

ZULIAN

BALBI CALLE

APR II IA CER MER

STAGNE RI

C. DEI

BAL OTE LE DE CAL LE

SAN A CHI VEC

A

SALIZADA

EI BAS

ILE

BOM LE CAL

LOV O DEL CAL LE

CAL

SA

A N M

RC

O

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

FONDAMENTA

CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

SALUTE

Punta della Dogana

NI

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

CALLE ZUCCHERO

SPIRIT

O SANTO

FONDAME

LO SA AI RE TE ZAT TA

San

AM

ND

FO

BRAG

TA

FOND

BILI

INCURA

CALLE

E ALLO

ETTO

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

AMEN

PISCINA

ZATTER

I

MENTA

FORNACE

CALLE DEL NAVARO

FONDA

SALON

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

E AI GESUA TI

CALLE DELA CREA

Spirito Santo

NTA ZATTERE

Spirito Santo DE LA SACA

FO

RI

PON

TE

ND

AM

EN

TA

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GI

O

CAL

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Rio

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APOSTO

PISTO

SANTI

DEL

C.SAN T’ANT ONIO

ADA

RIO TERRÀ

SALIZ

EGIO

NAR

CAN

CALLE DEI FUSERI

PISCIN A SAN

BO A

DEL

ZELL

LLE

DON

CA

C. NI

O

VAN

L’ARC

GIO

LE CAL

CALL

LA

LLE

CA

DI

CA

CAL

CAT

TA

SAN

ARINI

MP

LUN

GA

FOSC

lla O DE L’A M BAZIA iser icor dia

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de

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Can ale

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ND

FO

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LA

DE

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LLE

FEL

CA

SAN

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ME

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LLE

FOO RN O

CA

DEL

VEL E LE

CA LLE

DE CAL LE

RO

VER LLE

CA ’ D’O

SOF IA

C.

I

TER BO DEI LLE CA

L’ANZ OLO

MAT

TIA

CALL E DE

DEL SABION CORTE

VENIER PISCINA

FOND

ADIN

Ca' Giustinian

EN

O

CAR FOS RÀ TER RIO

LO

DEGLI

Salute

CATECUMENI

TERRÀ

GNESE

RIO TERRÀ

RIO

SANT'A

SAN TA

CAM PO

CAL

LA DE LE

CAL STU A

LA DE

FON DAM ENTA

DA PONTE DOGE CALLE

DEL

INI

CAMPIELLO TRAGHETTO

ORB I DEI

CAL LE

GIU STIN IAN

EUF EMI A BEA TA CAL LE

TTI NTOFFE SANGIA MENTA FONDA

CALLE VERRO DEL CCHIO

LAR

E

LE

RT

CAL

TRE VIS AN

CA LLE

DEL

C.

A ROS DEL LE

IEL

CAL

PAN CAM LE

REG

DEL

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DURO RE DORSO

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AM

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SA

FO

DO ON SEC

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TER RIO

O ROCC

E DEI CALL

CALL

FON

COLOM

GO

FONTE

SALITA

GA LAR LE

A’

CALL

E DI

SESTIE FOSCARI CALLE

NANI

Moise

TA

Palazzo Ducale

MO

RIVA

I

AMEN

I MARTIR

San

RIDOTTO

FOND

O

VONI SCHIA

ESSO

TREDIC

CALLE

RIO TERA’ OGNISANTI

CA

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

RC

Museo Correr

VALLAR

CALLE

E

MARCO

CANONI DE LA

Basilica di San Marco

MA

CALLE

EREMIT

SAN ZZA

SIONE

MENTA

SAN

CALLE

I BALON

O PELL CAP

E BIAN CALL

ASCEN

FONDA

LARGA

OTTI

San Gio

DEL

CAMPO SAN ZUAN NOVO

LARGA

o

PIA

CALLE

DEI CORTELL

EDIO REM LE CAL

CALLE DE

CALLE

O

CALLE

Pa Q Sta

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

CORTE

C.DEI

CA

Santa M Formo

BANDE

CORTE

Palazz

O

DEL TRAGHETTO

Palazzo Genovese

San Gregorio

FONDAMENTA

VAPOR

DE LE

FRUTARIOLI

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

CALLE DEL BASTION

DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

DEL

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CALLE

DEL FORNO

ETT

Rio

CALLE

CALLE DEL PESTRIN

CALLE

CO

ETTI,

TI, ET RS

FA

TE

RIO

BINA

CALLE

CALLE

QUERIN

,

ZO MEZ

HIVIO

L’ARC E DRIO CALL

E SAN CALL

F. CONDULMER

FON. DEI TOLENTINI

IA RER CE LA DE C.

CCA E SBIA CALL I SE GU RA A RG LA

LLE CA

CAL

NT A SA TA

LO

EN

CO

AM

De

e

al

an

C

O

TIM

RIT

MA

O

RT

PO NE ZIO RE DI

I

IN

ZZ

GA

MA

AI

CA TAS

Rio Del

RO

ZUL IAN

GIO ROLO DELL’O

ze ra

O

I HIER SPEC

ET

O SAT MUS

San Giuliano IA DAR SPA

DI

LE CAL

SAN

ARIA MARZ

EOL

SARTOR

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

LIO

CORTE TORRETTA

ALL CAV

ORS

CARRO

San Moisè

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

CORTE BAROZZI

MAR ZAR IA

PIGN OLI

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

DEL

A ENT

DEL

PRIMO INA RAMOCONTAR CORTE

E’

LUCATE LLO

DEI

Bacino Orseolo

CALLE

MOIS

SA

C.

RIO

C.

DAM

NA

CAP

BRI FAB

FON

PISCIN

LA CHIESA

PISCI

LICINI

OLINA GRAG LE COLONNE DE

LO GAL SAN E CALL CAMPO SAN GALLO

ERIA

XXII MARZO

CORTE

MEZ O

DEI

C. DEL LARGA

FORNO

DE LE ERBE

E DEI CALL

LE

CALLE

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

SAN

C. LARGA

DE

LE CAL

NA

CALLE

Santa Maria del Giglio

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim A

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

DEL

Sa

CAM SANTI GI E PAO

DEL

LI

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione RUBBI

IAPIE RA

IVO RED

CALLE GOLDONI

I

DRIO

IOL

CASTEL

DE LA FAVA

CORTE

CAL LE

BALO TE

LE CAL

E

BRI FAB

VERO

CALLE

CORTE

MICHIEL

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

CALLE

CAMPO CALICE

ITELL O CORTE C.DE TRAMONTIN L TAG

À

A

ERIA SEL CAS

DEI

LA

MINELL

RTA

Teatro la Fenice

Santa Maria del Giglio

FRUTAR

DEL

FREZZ

GIAZZO

DA

GALIAZ ZO

C. DEL

C.DE

E C.

TER

CALL GABRI E

G. GALLIN

LIO

r

LE CAL

do

DE

CAOTO

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

CO

LARGA

CALLE

I

SAN

lva

C.

CALLE

CALLE

A DE

OL

CALLE DEL C.MAR PIOMB TINEN O GO D. PALLE

DA

Sa C.

AZZ

ERI

E

CALLE

IZA

n

I

AC

CORTE GRAGOLINA

STR

BOT

CORTE CORTESE

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOL

MAN

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

I MIR

SALIZA

LE

C. DE LE COLONNE

CALLE

SSIN

ASSA TERÀ

CALLE

SALVAD OR

ZEN MAGA

DEL

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

DE

CAMPO SAN LIO

C. DEL

SAN

DEI

CAMPIELLO STELLA

N

WID

LE

X

SABION

GA

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

S.Canciano

RIO

Teatro Malibran

CORTE DEL

Sa

A LUC SAN

CALLE

ONA

CALLE

LAR

VAR ISCO

Casa di Marco Polo

MAR ZARI A DEL

DEL

LE CAL

San Fantin

R

LE

O

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CAL LE

C O RT E B ATA G I A

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

CANZIAN A SAN

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

PIO

MARZA RIA

Rio

BON CAR

LE CAL

NDE LOCA

VER

LL

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

FONTEG

San Salvador

MARCO

ETIE

CAL

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

SAL

BO BEM

DEL

RO TEAT

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

OLA MAND

SALI ZZA DA

MAZ ZINI

CORTE

TEATRO

CAMPO MANIN

RNIN PATE

LARG A

CORTE DEL

LA

CA

RAMO

RIOL

O

SAN SALVADOR

LE CAL

A

DE

en

PIC

ND

ON

FO

SIM SAN ENT A DAM FON

ra

ze

en

m

Sco

O

TIM

RIT

MA

O

RT

FRUTA

O

QUE

C.

DOL

om

CIN OPIA PISC

LLI CAVA

Sc

A

NER COR

DEL

I

R

CAL

BARBA

COCCO

CAN

E CALL

E

RIO

SAN

C. DEL

Rialto

Teatro Carlo Goldoni E CALL

le

TOS

Ponte di Rialto

N

TI OCA

MAN

na

TERÀ

CALLE

DE

PO

SI

LE

NE

HE BRIC FAB

ON

ORE

ANG

ZIO

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

E VOLT

E VENIE

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

Fontego dei Tedeschi

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

RIO

RE

CALL

SARTORI

San Giovanni Grisostomo

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

DEI

STU

DI

E

ZEN

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

San Giacomo di Rialto

PAR

DEL

a

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

Rialto (Palazzo Cavalli)

E CALL

CALL

LE

CAF

Canal Grande

DEL FORNO

CATEN

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

ENTA

CORTE DEL REMER

RIO

A

LE

TEA TR O

À

CAL

CHIES

SALIZADA

DAM

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

CAL LE

DELLA

UZZI

ULI

Fontego Palazzo Rava Dolfin Manin

San Maurizio

CALLE

VE

CALL

SALIZAD

San Silvestro

CALLE

CAPP

PRI

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

Palazzo Grimani

AVV

Santo Stefano

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

E

GO

RAVA

San Beneto San Luca

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

GNES

NO

RINA

CAL

NO

DEL

TER

NT'A

VA

DEI

DEL

LE

BOT EGH E

Accademia

C.SA

NO

CAL

ETA

RUGH

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

NANI

ENT A

Santa Sofia

DA

LE

im

TE

REA

RUG

CAM DEL PIEL SAN LO SON I

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia DEL PISTOR

. S.AND

DAM

LE

MUT I

de ran

SI

CAMPO PISANI

CATE

FOND.

DE

CA’

SAN

CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

CALLE

RA

CAL

ritt

EN

CALLE

TA

FON

FOND

FON

CAL

Ma

AM

ENTA

SAN

GO RTE OPO SOT

DE

BOT A

RIO

. NARI

DAM

CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA

E CALL

ne

ND

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

CAMPIELLO DEL SOL

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

San Vidal

ST

ZI

LE

IER

CALLE

STU A

GALIZ

DEI LAVRANE

DE

FAL

Zattere

Giudecca Hilton

CALLE

FISOLA

LARGA

FOND

CRO SER A

LE

ZATTER

CALLE

LA

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

E UEL SAM

FON

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

Palazzo Loredan

MENTA

CHIESA

DEL

Sant’Aponal

DE L

CAL

FONDA

DELLA

FO

w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 1

Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENT O BEATE GIULIANA CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

CALLE

LA

Palazzo Fortuny

DI SAN MARCO

S. Samuele

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione

SACCA

N

DEI

LON

MI

A

OZZE CARR

IN

ZEL

TE

S.

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele LE

OL

DON

PON

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

CAL LE DE

AMP ANE

CAL

E AL

LINI

CAR

C.

BON

RA

AP

CAMPO SAN BENETO CA LLE

DA IZA SAL

E DE CALL

al G

SESTIERE

CAL LE CA’ VEC CHI CORT A E LEZZE

Ca' Rezzonico

TR

ANI GRIM

RAMO

ENTA

LE

Sant'Angelo

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI

IA

S.Silvestro

Can Palazzo Giustinian Persico

S. Toma' SX

San Trovaso

DAM

DE

LE CAL

San Tomà

CALLE BERNARDO

I

CAL LE

CARAMPANE À

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

Ca' Rezzonico

FON

TER

INI

Abazia della Misericordia D

R

E CALL

SANT

TER

FORNO

OGNI

ND

CAMPO APONAL

A

O

TA

CAMPO DE LA BECARIE

DEL

. DE

' VE

ERA

FOND

ZAT

RIO

E DOL

DE OGNISAN

NTA

IC

EN

DON SAN PER

CHI TODES

ENTA

TI

AME

L’AG NEL LA

Palazzo Querini-Dubois

C. DEI

FONDAM

FOD

DE

LE SAMUE

Chiesa di Ognissanti

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

C.

CORTE DEL TEATRO

RIN PEST

IO

S. Basilio

LET

SERA

BESAG

SCA

A S. PISCIN

DA SAN

FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

DORSODURO

ER

AM

San Cassiano CAMPO SAN CASSAN

CAMPO SAN POLO

DEI PUTI

IAN

SALIZA

CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

ZI

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

CAMPO DEI FRARI

CALLE

AST

CALLE SAN BASILIO

TIOZ

DE INC INI

DEL

E CRO

SPORCAE CALLE PAZIENZ DE LE

SEB

San Sebastiano

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

100 m

DO

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

DEI

CA’BCAL ONVLE

BOL

TOMÀ

San Barnaba

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

LE

SAN

C.

IS

ND

DE

E DEL CALL

E

SCOAZZERA DE LA

LE PAZIENZ

SAN

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

A ENT

I

DAM

DON

C.

M

FO

CAL

O

O

TA

Santa Fosca

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

CALL

CAMPO DEI CARMINI

FON

LAR

OR

HETT

Car

Santa Maria dei Carmini

NT

TRAG

del

TE

E DEL

min

I

Rio

L

CALL

IAT

L’ASE

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

EN

CA

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

nde Canal Gra

BR

DE

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

O

CAL

TTO

NI

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

OCHE

GHE

E DE

AM

CALL

SER

NA

SAN POLO

TRA

TA

C. DE

DIA

LE

E

DEL

CRO

ND

MADONA

LE

TA

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

L

San Felice

DE LA

CAL

NA

CAL LE

RAMO

I

ALE

CALLE

PRET

E C A

FO

DD

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

E ZANE

LE

CALL

FOMO

RIO TERA’

AR

Angelo Raffaele

O

CAL

NT AR

rto

S.Stae

CAL

GU

RIELO

LE

CO

ll'O

E TRON

ER

TTO

CANAL RIO TERA’

LLE

LORENZ

CALLE CASE NUOVE

SAN

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CAL

C.

MEZ

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

CALL

ORE

E DEI

MA

CAMPO SAN STIN

Basilica dei Frari

TINT

N

SSA

EN

TERÀ

SAN

LE

R

RO

AM

RIO

CAL

E RENIE

DEL

TA

C.

N

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

CALL

EN

a de

EN

LA

ESI

TALO

A mixture of history and legend, D O R S O D U R O all the secrets of Venetian cuisine. NIC

MATTA DI CA’

E LE

CALL

DE

E

San Rocco

Mu

San Pantalon

O

AM

nn

AM

DE

IA

CIM

N

le

PAN

D

C.

O

de

NUOVO

I

ND

LA TT

N

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

CALL

CAMPO SAN BOLDO

OCH

C.VE

LA

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

DAR

RAM

CIM

A SAN

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

i

FO

CALLE ORSETTI

NZAT

DE

LA

SA

CAMPO SAN ROCCO IZAD

CALLE

NTA

DE L’OGIO

C. SAN

TA

A

tini

USE

ME

CALLE

RE

OLO

LAC

CALLE DELL'OLIO

BASEG

RIO

CALLE CONTARINA

DA

A A MART SANT

LA

FON

CALL

CALLE

MENTA

LE

TOR

I

DEI FONTEGH

L' ARZE

TA

TA DE

AMEN

DE

LA

ete

SAL

Rio dei Tolen

FONDA

CA

AMEN

FOND

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

LE

DE

O

RAG

FOND

AUTHENTIC FLAVOURS

C.

gh

OTT

en

DE LA VIDA

CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO

TIN

gaz

RAMO

CAL

O

À D E

Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

San Giacomo dall'Orio

RUGA BELA

DEL

CERER

EN

TI

TER

La Maddalena

L’ISOLA

LE

DEI

OT

ZO

ne

Ma

DE

CAL

I

taz io

NE

MENTA

FON

FONDA

ERI

CALLE

L

TERA’

CALLE CAZZA

CALLE SAVIO

RUGA VECCHIA

RZ

AM

CALLE DE LA LACA

ESI

ENT A MIN

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

I

EO O

Del

ND

do

ETTI MOR

SIM

MADON

LA

NA

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola

I

CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO

BAR

N

CAL

PAZ CAM

LE CAL

LE

DE

CA

E

IO

FO de Serv N.D AN i IEL

R

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

A

CAL

A CALLE

RT

ND

DEI

SA

E

BAR

TA

GA

A OV

CO

LUN

San Marcuola

DEL REMER

LAR

NU LA

DE

Rio

DAM

FO

Ma

LE CAL

A

TA PROC

URATI

LA

AMEN

PO

DEI AMAI

RAM

Rio

DIETRRIO TERÀ O LA CHIE

CAMPIELLO

BIAS

DI

E DEL PISTO

RIO

San Leonardo

C.

CH

TA RIZZI

CAZZIO

AMEN

FO

VE

San Nicola da Tolentino

FON

MENTA

FOND

NG

AS

I

FONDA

44 IN SEARCH OF

E NUO

CAM

IERI

FOND

CAS

A RIVA

LIS

Palazzo FO Soranzo NDAMEN Capello TA GA

AM

PENS

RTE

ENT

Rio

CALL

EONARDO

SAN LEONARDO

San Simeone Profeta

LU

RG

C. LAVADOR

EA

CHI

o

DEI

BE

HI

TERÀ

CO

CALLE

Rio Nuov

ACC

RIO

I

'ANDR

HIO

E

TAB

TABAC

CC

SANT

VA

ICA

VE

TERÀ

NUO

TA FABBR

O

LE

RIO

AMEN

TT

OC

PIAZZALE ROMA

CAL

FOND

DE

People Mover Venezia

TRONCHETTO

CR

. LA

Giardino Papadopoli

PAPADOPOLI

EA

S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO

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Take advantage of your stay in Venice to enjoy this season’s latest offerings.

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Information and tips to experience the best CAN N A R E G has IO that Venice to offer

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Venice is a photographer's paradise: Where® offers you a short guide that will help you capture impressive shots to show back home as a reminder of your unforgettable experience…

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THE LENS

ISOLA SAN GIORGIO

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STAY IN TOUCH

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A pick of large and small 20th century and contemporary art galleries.

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A breathtaking view of the Feast of the Redeemer from The Gritti Palace (Terrazza Redentore Suite)

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The monumental Rialto Bridge and its surroundings.

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SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | ENTERTAINMENT | SHOPPING | DINING | MAPS

Immerse yourself in a world of nature, art and wellness at several of the Veneto region’s destinations

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OUR PICK OF THE BEST SEASONAL TRENDS

Discover artisanal ‘botteghe’, tiny jewel-like boutiques and vintage shops.

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This month's round-up of shows, PORTO MARGHERA art exhibitions, and concerts. VIVA ARTE VIVA

ART BIENNALE 2017 13 MAY - 26 NOVEMBER

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Following in the footsteps of Giacomo Casanova

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www.where-venice.com

Contents

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Venice

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JULY 2017 THE MONTHLY GUIDE TO

ALL YOU CAN DO IN THE CITY

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Discover the New SPA at


YOUR TRAVEL ING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

where Venice ®

WELCOME TO VENICE

M A G A Z I N E

www.where-venice.com

FOR REAL VENETIAN LOVERS

WHERE ITALIA SRL

A trip to Venice is a unique experience: to make sure it’s unforgettable, here are some insider tips to make the most of your visit.

Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano. T: 02 349951 - Fax 02 33107015 info@where-venice.com www.where-venice.com PUBLISHER AND EDITORINCHIEF

Andrea Jarach (andrea.jarach@where-venice.com) EDITORIAL (PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL)

01

DRESS

MANAGING DIRECTOR

Daniele Misrachi

EDITORIAL COORDINATION

Alessandra Finzi (redazione@where-venice.com) MAGAZINE EDITORIAL STAFF Carey Bernitz,

Elena Binda, Romena Brugnerotto, Simona P.K. Daviddi, Elena Peverata, Stefania Vida MAGAZINE ART DIRECTION Elisabetta Giudici,

Joy Lacanlale

WEB EDITORIAL STAFF Chiara Fonzi (coordination),

02

STREET RULES Many ‘calli’ (streets) in Venice are narrow. Keep to the right and avoid loitering. Make sure to take quick ‘clicks’ on Venice’s bridges especially when they’re crowded.

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OBSTRUCTING PUBLIC TRANSPORT

Fabio Lancini (art direction), Giulia Minero (editor) redazione@where-venice.com Shutterstock ICONOGRAPHY Archivio Where® Italia, Dreamstime,

Shutterstock

CARTOGRAPHY CITY MAP: © Where Italia srl. - 2017 Original Map by Urban - www.urbanfile.org CARTOGRAPHY CITY MAP:File © Where Italia srl. - 2017 -

Fast Trains Network MapFile by- Dmitry Goloub Original Map by Urban www.urbanfile.org Fast Trains Network Map by Dmitry Goloub MARKETING & ADVERTISING Sieva Carolo, Isa Faleschini, Marta Mailhac, Rachele MARKETING & ADVERTISING Sieva Carolo,Renna, Paola ZannoniMarta (coordination to Italy") Isa Faleschini, Mailhac, "Welcome Rachele Renna, Paola Zannoni (coordination "Welcome to Italy") PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORT Grilli SALES SUPPORT COORDINATOR& Paola PRODUCTION CIRCULATION, COORDINATOR Paola Grilli ADMINISTRATION Katia Greto ADMINISTRATION Katia Greto LOCAL MARKETING Stefano Traine (T: 340 3026288) LOCAL MARKETING Stefano Traine (T: 340 3026288) HOTEL RELATION MANAGER Maria Granata (maria.granata@where-venice.com) HOTEL RELATION MANAGER Maria Granata

(maria.granata@where-venice.com) CUSTOMER SERVICES Cristina Garbini, Valentina Senatore SERVICES Cristina Garbini, Valentina CUSTOMER Senatore

REG. TRIB. MILANO No. 174, 28 JUNE 2016 WHERE® ITALIA SRL, ISCRITTO AL ROC No. 20182 DEL 14 SETTEMBRE 2010 REG. TRIB. MILANO No. 174, 28 JUNE 2016 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: WHERE® ITALIA SRL, ISCRITTOANDREA AL ROCJARACH No. 20182 DEL 14 SETTEMBRE 2010

PRINTED BYRESPONSABILE: GRAPHICSCALVE SPA DIRETTORE ANDREA JARACH LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE BG PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE BG Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to Although publisher hasholders made every effort to include copyright in apologizethe to the copyright in question whose names will becredits, published the event there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to in the nextofissue. apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published in the next issue.

IN ITALY Where® is also published in Milan by Where® Italia, inisRome by Tourist in Media IN ITALY Where® also published Milansrlby

and in Naples byRome IES Comunicazione srl srl Where® Italia, in by Tourist Media and in Naples by IES Comunicazione srl

ACQUA ALTA In the event of ‘acqua alta’ (flooding), use the raised walkways provided. Keep to the right and don’t hang around. Don’t step into the water, because it’s dirty.

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When travelling on public transport, please respect the other passengers: avoid blocking the entrance or exit, store your bags where the boat staff tells you and remove your backpacks.

BIKES AND OTHERS MEANS OF TRANSPORTATION

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EATING Apart from restaurants, picknicking is forbidden in the area around St. Mark’s Basilica. Website www.where-venice.com features a list of the best restaurants and ‘bacari’ where you can sample delectable Mediterranean cuisine. Please Note: it’s not done to eat ‘gelato’ before lunch and cappuccino is a ‘no no’ in the afternoon.

It is forbidden to walk around Venice in a bathing costume or bare-chested. Swimming in Venice’s canals is prohibited. The Lido is the go-to place for bathing. Venice is an elegant ‘grand dame’ and a certain dress code is ‘de rigueur’.

In Venice, adults are prohibited from riding bikes or using or carrying kick scooters. Use the parking lots located at the entrance to the city.

VENETIAN SOUVENIR In the midst of its myriad offerings, always make sure to purchase authentic Venetian goods. These include Murano beads, local biscuits, artisanal prints and masks. By purchasing items from local artisans, you’re supporting the Venetian craft industry.

EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOP HOTELS

WHERE® VENICE È DISTRIBUITO SOLO NELLE DEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOPCAMERE HOTELS VENEZIA E DEL VENETO. WHERE® VENICE È DISTRIBUITO SOLO NELLE CAMERE DEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI WHERE® VENICE IS AVAILABLE ONLY IN THE ROOMS OF THE MOST EXCLUSIVE VENEZIA E DEL VENETO. HOTELS IN VENICE AND IN VENETO. WHERE® VENICE IS AVAILABLE ONLY IN THE ROOMS OF THE MOST EXCLUSIVE HOTELS IN VENICE AND IN VENETO.

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MVP EXECUTIVE CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III CHAIRMAN S. Morris III PRESIDENT William & CEO William S. Morris IV PRESIDENT CEO William S. Morris MANAGING&DIRECTOR EUROPE Chris IV Manning MANAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE Chris

Manning

Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, cannot responsible for any Where® Magazine makesbut every effortbe toheld ensure the accuracy of the consequences arising from or be omissions. All rights for reserved. information it publishes, buterrors cannot held responsible any Reproduction in wholefrom or inerrors part isorstrictly prohibited. consequences arising omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited.

Published in association with

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Where® magazine and the where ® logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications.

If being a tourist is your way of life, an instinctive mindset, being a tourist in Venice is a privilege and an art. The glorious history of the Serenissima left stunning examples of architecture throughout the city, handing down a rich cultural heritage. This heritage encompasses a number of small yet fundamental decrees. Venice is an ‘elegant grand dame’ and deserves to be treated with respect by obeying the protocols of good behaviour. Where® Venice has drawn up a small handbook of ‘do’s and ‘don’ts’ to ensure that visitors have a chance to fully enjoy the city while honouring its people, monuments and local traditions. r.com w w w.wh e re t rave le r.c om 3


[ SIGHTSEEING]

Top in town

Palazzo Ducale

BASILICA DI SAN MARCO This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000; inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. Map F4 

CANAL GRANDE Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. 

PONTE DEI SOSPIRI A Baroque bridge that once connected Palazzo Ducale to the prisons. The Bridge of Sighs is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. It can be accessed when visiting Palazzo Ducale. Map F4 

SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO The external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell of Palazzo Contarini - an exquisite, late Gothic building - is enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can

4 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2017

be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. Map E4  TEATRO LA FENICE Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries La Fenice theatre has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. Map E5  CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built


MORE AT PAGE 46 MAP PAGES 62-63

as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plaguestricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures. Map D4 

PHOTO © DANIMISRA

PALAZZO DUCALE A masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, it features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it is superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. Map F4 

Canal Grande

Piazza San Marco with the Basilica and the Tower

Ponte dei Sospiri

EDITOR'S TIP

11 MUSEUMS, 1 TICKET The Museum Pass is a combined ticket that offers access to all the permanent collections of Venice’s civic and affiliated museums. It is valid for 6 months and allows one entry per museum site. Full price ticket €24 > This ticket is valid for: the Museum of St Mark's Square (Doge's Palace, Museo Correr, Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Monumental Rooms of the Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana), Ca' Rezzonico-Museum of 18th-Century Art, Museum of Palazzo Mocenigo and Museum of Textiles and Costumes, Carlo Goldoni's House, Ca' Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art + Oriental Art Museum, Glass Museum in Murano, Lace Museum in Burano and Museum of Natural History. Info & Reservations: www.visitmuve.it Call center 848 082000. From abroad +39 041 42730892.

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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES ENTERTAINMENT

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JULY

ENJOY THE FIREWORKS! Every year, on the third Sunday of July, Venice commemorates the city’s deliverance from the plague in the 16th century with a celebration known as the ‘Festa del Redentore’ or ‘Feast of the Redeemer’. This religious holiday and spectacular event is much loved by the people of Venice. The highlight of the event – held on Saturday night at 11.30pm – is a fireworks display that attracts thousands of spectators. The Feast of the Redeemer kicks off with the opening of the pontoon bridge connecting the Zattere to the Church of the Redeemer on the Island of Giudecca, and the presentation of the Venetian regatta boat crews. The Regattas of the Redeemer are held on Sunday in the Giudecca Canal and the event ends at 7pm with a Votive Mass at the Church of the Redeemer on the Island of Giudecca. Feast of the Redeemer Giudecca Canal

JULY

HOT DATES Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates.

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PHOTO © MATTEO CHINELLATO / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

JULY

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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES ART TOUR

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NOVEMBER

MULTIMEDIA GIOTTO ▼ To commemorate the 750th anniversary of the birth of Giotto, the Scuola Grande della Misericordia has created an interactive exhibition featuring reproductions of his work and a guided, hour-long itinerary. The visitor’s experience is enhanced with the narration of texts and musical accompaniment dedicated to the famous medieval artist. Titled ‘Magister Giotto’, this multimedia project is the first installment of an artistic trilogy; in 2018, it will showcase the neo-classical sculptor Canova and, in 2019, the Renaissance artist Raphael. This interactive exhibition will allow visitors to explore Giotto’s masterpieces in a new way. Get up close and personal with his Franciscan Allegories of Assisi, the Scrovegni Chapel in Padua, and his majestic crucifixes. Learn how science and art came together in the ‘Giotto Mission’ of 1986 developed by the European Space Agency which, for the first time in history, intercepted Halley’s Comet, pictured in the Adoration of the Magi in the Scrovegni Chapel (see photo).

Magister Giotto Scuola Grande della Misericordia Cannaregio, 3599 www.magistergiotto.com

EXHIBITION

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CHORAL DIALOGUE

▲ This multimedia exhibition project is the result of an ongoing, in-depth exchange between filmmaker Alexander Kluge, photographer Thomas Demand and stage and MAY NOVEMBER costume designer Anna Viebrock. Cinema, art and theatre intersect at Fondazione Prada with this collaborative project that merges what are usually distinct artistic forms of expression. At this exhibition titled ‘The Boat is Leaking. The Captain Lied’, visitors can create their own narrative, by moving physically and conceptually through the visual imagery of the three artists.

The Boat is Leaking. The Captain Lied. Fondazione Prada. Ca’ Corner della Regina. Santa Croce, 2215 (Calle de Ca’ Corner) www.fondazioneprada.org

OUT OF TOWN

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SEPTEMBER

NIGHT EXTRAVAGANZA AT GARDALAND ◄ This month, Gardaland, one of Italy’s largest amusement parks, will once again be offering a series of fabulous evening attractions for a thrilling out-of-town experience. Featuring special themed evening events, the action-packed ‘Gardaland Night is Magic’ program has something for everyone. Kids and adults that are youngat-heart will love the thrilling coasters, simulators and water attractions at unbeatable prices. Until 10 September, visitors can access the park with a special evening ticket which is valid from 6pm to 11pm at a price of just €20.

Gardaland Night is Magic Via Derna, 4. Castelnuovo del Garda (Verona) www.gardaland.it

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JULY ART BIENNALE

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ANNUAL EVENTS IN VENICE VIVA ARTE VIVA

▼ The 57th Art Biennale is an event that attracts the world’s best contemporary artists and offers visitors an amazing selection of works, installations, live performances, and multiple MAY NOVEMBER opportunities to reflect on the present. Human beings, their creative ability and their need for interaction take centre stage at this edition chaired by Paolo Baratta and curated by Parisian-born Christine Macel, Chief Curator at the Musée d’Art Moderne at the Pompidou Centre.

The theme of this edition is ‘Viva Arte Viva’, an exclamation, a passionate appeal for art and the state of the artist which, according to Christine Macel ,“celebrates mankind’s ability, through art, to avoid being dominated by world affairs. The artistic act is simultaneously an act of resistance, liberation and generosity.” Out of the 120 artists who have been invited to the exhibition, 103 are participating for the first time. The exhibition is hosted at two venues - the Arsenale and the Giardini - and features 87 national pavilions, each with its own curator and project, as well as an international exhibition organized by the Biennale di Venezia. To highlight the theme of this 57th edition, a cornucopia of live performances will be staged during the six months of the exhibition. The majority of these performances will be held at Central Pavilion, designed as a trans-national pavilion. TEN DAYS OF THEATRE  ‘Act I: DIRECTOR’ is the title of the 45th International Theatre Festival taking place from 25 July to 12 August. Directed by Antonio Latella, the festival offers a survey of European theatre through the lens of nine well-known, forty-something female directors from Italy, Germany, France, Poland, Holland and Estonia. To showcase the evolution of their creative process, the festival will feature 2-4 films per director, most of which will be Italian premieres.

► 2017 ◄ JULY/AUGUST Festa del Redentore / Feast of the Redeemer > (16 July) One of Venice’s best loved festivals, the event features a parade of boats in the Giudecca and fireworks. Biennale of Theatre (25 July-12 August)

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER International Exhibition of Cinematographic Art > (30 August-9 September) Now in its 74th consecutive year, the exhibition is organized by the Biennale of Venice. SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER Regata Storica / Historic Regatta (3 September) > One of Venice’s foremost rowing competitions, it is preceded by a spectacular parade of historic 16th century craft. Biennale of Music (29 September-8 October) Venice Marathon (22 October) NOVEMBER Festa della Salute > 21 November A popular religious feast day. DECEMBER Christmas Concert at St. Mark’s basilica ► 2018 ◄

JANUARY New Year’s Eve Concert > Arias and operatic selections at La Fenice Opera House.

For more information visit the website www.labiennale.org.

▼ Roberto Cuoghi. Imitazione di Cristo, 2017. Installation view at Padiglione Italia. Work in progress. 57th International Art Biennale in Venice. Photo credit Roberto Marossi

FEBRUARY Carnival of Venice > Shows, masked parades and music in ‘calli’, squares and palaces. APRIL Festa di San Marco/Feast of St. Mark > (25 April) In addition to being a national holiday, on 25 April Venetians also celebrate Saint Mark’s day. Venice Night Trial > (28 April) Urban trail run 16 km through the historical centre of Venice. MAY Biennale Architettura 2018 (26 May-25 November, Arsenale and Giardini) > 16th International Architecture Exhibition Festa della Sensa (or Ascension festivity 10 May) > A masked parade in St. Mark’s Square to celebrate the Serenissima and the ‘Sposalizio del Mare’ (Marriage of the Sea) ceremony JUNE/JULY Vogalonga (4 June) > 44th edition of the 30 km rowing marathon through S. Erasmo, S. Francesco del deserto, Burano, Mazzorbo, Murano and the Grand Canal. The competition is open to the public. Biennale of Dance > (22 -30 June) Feast of San Piero de Casteo > An end-of-June festivity to celebrate the arrival of summer: the focal point of the event is the Island of San Pietro di Castello. w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 9


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WHERE NOW | FOCUS

Buildings, monuments and urban spaces are juxtaposed against the blueprints of the city. Photo : Riccardo De Cal from "Dream of Venice Architecture" (Bella Figura Publications, USA) 12 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2017


Venice through the lens Every corner of Venice is like a scene from a painting! But if you’re undecided what shots to capture, here are some interesting ideas. B Y R O M E N A BRUGNEROTTO

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re you looking to capture the sights of Venice through the lens of a camera? Do you want to bring home remarkable images to remind you of this unforgettable experience? Venice is a photographer’s paradise. You will find something interesting to point your camera at wherever you walk. Every twist and turn will lead you to a photo opportunity, letting you to choose the one best suited to your style, your requirements and your desire to explore. FROM ABOVE In this short guide, we offer you insider advice to help you understand how the city is organized, and how to photograph Venice from above. The city’s two bell towers, the bell tower of St. Mark’s and the bell tower on the Island of San Giorgio, are a good start. The latter is particularly appealing because it also offers a bird’s-eye view of St. Mark’s Square. On clear days, in both summer and winter, the Veneto mountains or Dolomites might also be visible. If you’re lucky enough, they’ll serve as the perfect backdrop to a view of the square. You can also enjoy a breathtaking panorama from the terrace of the Hotel Hilton Molino Stucky on the Island of Giudecca. A great way to combine photography with a poolside drink! Another photographer’s dream, especially at sunset, is the terrace of the TFondaco dei Tedeschi in Rialto (in order to access it, you’ll need to book ahead, which you can do by registering online). Enjoy an aerial view of Venice from Scala Contarini del Bovolo, an architectural gem hidden behind Campo Manin in the heart of Venice.

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WHERE NOW | FOCUS AUTHENTIC LIFE Are you interested in capturing real life scenes rather than monuments? If so, wake up early and head to the Rialto fish market, where locals and restaurant owners purchase fresh fish. Browse the stalls (without getting in the way of the merchants) and allow yourself to be captivated by the fish and vendors hawking their wares. Look for the sculptures decorating the side capitals and columns; you’ll find a number of maritime and symbolic decorations that are well worth photographing. If all this fish has made you hungry, head to Campo Santa Margherita which is filled to overflowing with people at all hours of the day and night. Depending on the time of day, you’ll see Venetians sitting at the outside tables having lunch, a cup of coffee or a glass of wine, surrounded by children running around or playing. As evening approaches, a favourite haunt is the Fondamenta della Misericordia in Cannaregio, where you can enjoy an aperitivo on a boat. BREATHTAKING SUNSETS Early evening is a magical time of day in Venice. Gaze at the lights reflected on the water and the setting sun glowing on the buildings that line the canals. There are several special places offering amazing sunset shots. If you’ve just ended the day at the Biennale’s gardens, linger and capture some spectacular sunset views between the Island of San Giorgio and the dome of Santa Maria della Salute. Both the Island of San Giorgio and the Giudecca offer

Inspired by the city

14 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2017

enthusiastic photographers some amazingly scenic sunset shots. In this instance you can opt for the unusual backdrop of the industrial area rather than that of the historic centre. If you happen to be visiting some of Venice’s islands, on Burano and Mazzorbo you can capture the sun setting over the lagoon of Venice. Sunset is also the best time to photograph Venetian

‘palazzi’, gondolas and bell towers reflected in the city’s canals: for once, look down not up and try taking a few black and white shots. The results are bound to be interesting. EXPLORING THE ISLANDS OF THE VENETIAN LAGOON Each boasting their own specific characteristics,

Why do we take photographs when we’re travelling? Because we want to take home the images of the places we’ve visited but also recapture the emotions we felt during our stay. To ensure that you take home unforgettable memories of Venice, or if you’d like to give someone a special present expressing the mysterious allure of Venice, we recommend the purchase of two beautiful books of evocative photography, published by Bella Figura Publications: Dream of Venice and Dream of Venice Architecture. In the first book, Dream of Venice, the reverential images captured by Charles Christopher are complimented by the intimate thoughts, memories, poems, and stories of notable contributors from the worlds of art, literature, design, cuisine, music, and filmmaking. Included are anecdotes and Venetian recollections from Woody Allen, Frances Mayes, Giampaolo Seguso, and Marcella Hazan, to mention but a few. In the second book, Dream of Venice Architecture, the photographs are by Riccardo De Cal, while the essays are written by several of the world’s leading architects, including Tadao Ando, Michele de Lucchi, Mario Botta, Valeriano Pastor and Annabelle Selldorf, who have built in Venice. The book also features impressions by other architects, designers and artists who have been inspired by the city. The books are dedicated to the people of Venice and can either be purchased in Venice or online. The links to the sites where you can buy them are listed at http://bellafigurapublications. com. A portion of the proceeds will be donated to two non-profit associations which work towards supporting the city of Venice, Save Venice and the Fondazione Querini Stampalia.


© PHOTO DREAMSTIME

LIKE A PAINTING Whether it’s a question of a breathtaking sunset after a day’s rain between the Island of San Giorgio and the dome of Santa Maria della Salute (right), a view of the city teeming with people (left, Campo Santa Margherita) or a picture of everyday life in Venice, like this image featuring Burano’s rainbow-coloured houses… a trip to Venice offers myriad photo opportunities.

the islands of the Lagoon beg to be photographed. In Murano, don’t miss an opportunity to photograph glass blowers at work at one of the island’s many furnaces. Alternately, the Island of Burano, with its rainbow coloured houses, is an absolute stunner and extremely photogenic. It’s impossible to leave this island without at least a dozen impressive shots to show back home. If you enjoy photographing nature, head to the Island of Certosa where, in its public park, amidst the boats of the Marina Resort, you’ll find centuries old trees, lagoon flowers, a few hares and a scattering of goats. After exploring the area, take a boat heading in the direction of the Lido of Venice. From here you can access the Alberoni, where you can take some scenic shots of its beautiful beach or stop in the centre to admire the early 20th century Liberty villas for which the Lido is renowned worldwide. HIDDEN GARDENS Several breathtaking gardens are hidden amidst Venetian ‘palazzi’ (you just have to know where to look). The Island of Giudecca is home to the Giardino di Ottilia. Its abundant and wild beauty is the work of one woman; Ottilia. In addition to several rare flowering species, Ottilia cultivates 130 different species of roses based on the principles of biodynamics. While there be sure to visit the gardens of the w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 15


WHERE NOW | FOCUS

Fondaco Terrace - photo bymatteo de fina @ dfs

Palladio and Cipriani Hotels. You’ll be pleasantly surprised by their elegant green spaces and trees. In the sestiere of Cannaregio, the garden of the Hotel Dei Dogi deserves to be explored and photographed. The garden was created in the 17th century to host rare botanical collections and boasts a number of magnificent species that bloom year round. On the Grand Canal, don’t miss an opportunity to visit the garden of the Ca’ Nigra Hotel: a romantic garden whose rose bowers overlook the water. Another notable example is the garden created by renowned architect Carlo Scarpa at the Querini Stampalia Foundation. Inspired by the theme of water, this eclectic garden fuses elements such as Byzantinestyle mosaics and a Japanese pebble stream, creating an elegant space intended for rest and contemplation. On the Island of Mazzorbo, an absolute must is a visit to the garden of Venissa that hosts one of the city’s few remaining vineyards. The dishes served at its restaurant are exquisitely linked to the fertile territory where it’s located, with much of what’s on the plate hailing from the estate’s vegetable garden. In summer, its garden hosts a beautiful exhibition of sculptures by American artist Carole Feuerman, a pioneer of hyperrealist sculpture. Take the shuttle from St. Mark’s Square and head to the resort on the Island of Roses: breathtaking views, an abundance of roses and olive groves await you! PHOTOGRAPHING ARTISANS Like many other Italian cities, Venice is renowned for its age-old tradition of craftsmanship. Enter its ‘botteghe’ on tiptoe, ask permission to take photographs and encourage its artisans to tell you about their work. They will be happy to reveal the secrets of their trade (and in return, 16 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2017

POINTS OF VIEW Above, a spectacular view of the Grand Canal seen from the terrace of the T Fondaco dei Tedeschi department store. Right, the Garden of Ottilia, a masterpiece of botanical art and one of the most beautiful green spaces on the Island of Giudecca.

you can reward them by buying one of the items on sale). You’ll have a field day taking photographs of artisans either making Murano glass beads known as ‘perle a lume’ or threading tiny beads to make exquisite Venetian jewelry. Pop into a ‘squero’, the Venetian word for a boatyard (you’ll find one in San Trovaso), where gondolas are still made today and learn the secrets of this time-honoured trade. The city still hosts a number of ‘forcolai’, the artisans who make the rowlocks or oarposts for boats and gondolas. They also make smaller versions which you can take home as a souvenir of your visit to Venice. Venice is also well-known for its printing tradition. In the sestiere of Cannaregio, you’ll find print shops that still make exquisite images of the city. If you’re feeling inspired, you can create a themed composition.

VISITING THE BIENNALE This summer, you’ll have an opportunity to take photos that are part of history. The installations, visible from May to the end of November, scattered across the city as part of the Venice Art Biennale’s official program, make for good subject matter. In front of the Ca’ Sagredo Hotel on the Grand Canal, you’ll find the huge ‘Support’ sculpture by renowned artist Lorenzo Quinn. In Campo San Vio, a twenty-meter golden tower by the artist James Lee Byars dominates the scene, while in the Arsenale/Giardini area you’ll find a rhinoceros. Finally, at the ‘Giardini Marinaressa’, in Riva dei Sette Martiri, you’ll have a unique opportunity to photograph a series of ten stunning hyperrealistic sculptures of swimmers by Carole Feuerman.


ADVERTORIAL

Michael Kors, Venice in style

For lovers of fashion, San Marco 1461 is the go-to address for an exclusive shopping experience in Venice. A space located just steps from St. Mark’s Square where elegance and simplicity meet the style of the collections signed by Michael Kors. At the brand’s boutique, you can satisfy your interest about the latest trends of the brand’s collections for summer 2017, featuring the key styles of the latest iteration of Michael Kors The Walk (MichaelKors.com/TheWalk). This season, the campaign moved to California, where influencers, including American model and actress Kelly Rohrbach, were captured sporting MICHAEL Michael Kors goods on the streets of Los Angeles. Rohrbach was lensed carrying the Mercer Flora Patchwork” tote bag (see photo). Crafted from a mix of suede, smooth and pebbled leather, the Mercer floral patchwork crossbody is the perfect accessory for those in search of a contemporary, sought-after look.

Michael Kors Boutique San Marco, 1461 (Campo San Moisè) T: 041 2960312 www.michaelkors.com www.michaelkors.it

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WHERE NOW | SHOPPING

GIFT

GUIDE

► ROLEX Available for the first time in 904L steel, the new ‘Lady Datejust 28’ from the Oyster Perpetual collection features a redesigned, larger 28 mm case and a new-generation mechanical movement, caliber 2236. www.rolex.com

With the arrival of summer, spending a little time in search of a new accessory, a jewel or a special gift, becomes even more pleasurable. Take advantage of a stroll through the picturesque ‘calli’ of Venice to treat yourself to some alluring detail of style. Where guarantees that you won’t leave empty-handed!

◄ LA PERLA Featuring a macro print referencing the map of Bologna, these mid-rise bikini briefs pay tribute to the city that gave life to the brand in 1954. A youthful, bright creation made from soft Lycra®. www.laperla.com

®

FOR HER ▲ MAX MARA These eye-catching drop earrings with a clip fastening are enhanced by metal geometric elements and inset resin details. it.maxmara.com

▲ CHANEL Hydrating, brilliant and as melt-away as a balm, Chanel’s ‘Rouge Coco Shine’ becomes fluid on contact with the lips. Available in a palette of semi-transparent or deeper shades. www.chanel.com ◄ RENÉ CAOVILLA Multi-coloured Karung leather sandal, decorated with three pastel-coloured rhinestone bows. Its low heel is covered in blue Karung leather. www.renecaovilla.com

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► FRATELLI ROSSETTI Platform derby made from soft braided barrel dyed calfskin with personalized rubber sole. www.fratellirossetti.com

FOR HIM ◄ IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN With its linear dial, this ‘Da Vinci Automatic’ watch is the ideal accessory for connoisseurs of simple elegance. Available with an ardoise dial and a steel strap or an argenté dial with a black leather alligator strap. www.iwc.com

► DOLCE&GABBANA Launched in 2007, Light Blue is updated in the ‘Light Blue Eau Intense pour Homme’ version. Today, it continues to tell the story with its signature contrast of freshness and masculinity. www.dolcegabbana.com

► ETRO Featuring the brand’s iconic motif in dark shades of blue, turquoise and black, the mid-length fit of these swim shorts makes them a stylish choice for the beach. www.etro.com

▲ BOGGI MILANO Custom-fit linen and cotton shirt with a Korean collar. Made from an ultra-light stretch fabric for added comfort, its contemporary light cut adds a touch of chic to the wardrobes of stylish, fashion-conscious gents. www.boggi.com

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A historical shopping experience Timeless designer duo Dolce&Gabbana has chosen Palazzo Torres as the brand’s new Venetian ‘home’. By Stefania Vida

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ocated in Calle Larga XXII Marzo, just steps from St. Mark’s Square, the new Dolce&Gabbana boutique is a true gem of architecture that will not go unnoticed: an experience combining a cultural visit and a trip to discover the latest fashion trends. Conceived for a city that is famous throughout the world for its beauty, history and uniqueness, the space was designed in full respect of the palazzo’s historic past, with a particular focus of the artisanal skills of olden-day Venice revisited in a contemporary key. The aim of the boutique is to offer clients a unique experience characterized by a captivating play of contrasts, a blend of the history of the Serenissima and the innovative features that distinguish several of the store’s rooms. On entering the palazzo, customers will 20 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2017

find themselves immersed in an aristocratic oldworld atmosphere that retains all the splendour of the property’s storied past. Its interiors are decorated with the original boiserie, its floors are covered with multi-coloured inlaid antique marble and a striking Murano glass chandelier dominates the centre of the room. A 20-metre corridor, whose walls are covered with a precious, 24 carat gold leaf mosaic, leads to the modern part of the boutique which hosts a space dedicated to the brand’s collections of womenswear, menswear and fine jewelry. To mark the opening, the designers created a special collection of silk scarves embellished with symbols of the Serenissima, including the Basilica of St. Mark’s, the city’s romantic gondolas, the Winged Lion, and Venice’s famous

Carnival masks, to celebrate Venice’s timeless beauty. Make sure to visit this jewel of history, architecture and stunning Italian fashion! >> Dolce&Gabbana Calle Larga XXII marzo www.dolcegabbana.it

Bucket bag with shoes from the pre-fall/winter 2017-2018 collection


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

The

Guidelines ACCESSORIES

This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. MAP LOCATIONS Note that references in bold at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 62-63. TRANSPORTReferences to vaporetto lines and stops are based on departure from the Santa Lucia railway station. SHOPPING Shopping hours are generally from

10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Venice) and on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge. Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.

»

TAXFREE SHOPPING

By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund. UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 e-mail: europe@unionpayintl.com

UnionPay is a global payment network originated from China, responsible for the inter-bank payment via UnionPay system worldwide. By March 2017, over 450,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 35,000 merchants are located in Venice. This allows hundred of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as DFS Group, McArthurGlen Designer outlets, SINA hotels, Airport dutyfree shops, to provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders. DINING

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30 € or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. SIGHTSEEING

Information about our selection of museums and monuments is checked as carefully as possible. However, telephone numbers, opening hours, works displayed and site accessibility are subject to change depending on the time of the year, restorations, loans or changes in management. Ask your concierge.

Anatema

Rossana Righini delights customers with her scarves, brooches, costume jewelry, bags, hats and silk, handmade ties. Her windows and display cases express the owner’s philosophy: “The culture of beauty, the magic of elegance”. PASSION TIP Anatema also stocks small Murano glass jewelry. Open daily 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.anatema.it. San Polo, 2603. T: 041 5242221. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Artistic glass in Murano

Fanny Gloves

Colourful, handmade gloves, from the most classic to the most eccentric, lined with cashmere, silk or lapin. Since 2001, Giorgio Fontanive has continued to run this family-owned business, established by his father-in-law, a Neapolitan glove maker. The brand recently opened a second branch in Cannaregio, in Rio Terà San Leonardo. Open daily 9.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm. www.fannygloves. it. San Polo, 2723 (Calle Saoneri) T. 041 5228266. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D2

Francis Model

Stylish, high-quality bags with a focus on colour. Established in 1965, this small artisanal ‘bottega’ has always remained faithful to the diktats of Made in Italy craftsmanship. Located just steps from the Rialto Bridge, Ruggero De Zorzi devotes himself to his craft with pride and passion. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.francismodel.it. San Polo, 773/A (Ruga Ravano). T: 041 5212889. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato stop). Map E3

Giovanna Zanella

For the past ten years, Venetian designercobbler Giovanna Zanella has been creating exclusive lines of shoes for men and women at her workshop located just a stone’s throw from the Rialto Bridge. Each pair is endowed with its own, unrepeatable personality and Giovanna refers to them as “magical, haute couture creations” because they are often enhanced by a surprise element like touches of nylon, cobra heads, pistils or fringes. Open Mon-Sat 1.30pm-8pm. www. giovannazanella.it. Castello, 5641 (Calle near Campo San Lio). T: 041 5235500. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Giuliana Longo

A milliner boasting a longstanding family tradition dating back to the early 20th century, Giuliana Longo’s fame has spread far beyond the boundaries of Venice, thanks to her unique Venetian aesthetic. Her shop is the dream hatcupboard of any true sartorialist, amidst old-world furnishings, original panama hats and handmade headgear. PASSION TIP The only shop in town where you can find authentic gondolier’s hats. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.giulianalongo. com. San Marco, 4813 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 5226454. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

La Parigina

An historic Venetian shoe shop which has been producing its own-name sleek, butter-soft leather shoes for men and women since the 1940s. It also stocks a wide selection of international brands including Church’s, Timberland, Camper, Michael Kors, Bikkemberg sandals and Siton loafers. La Parigina also carries an assortment of luxury

Glassmaking had already become an integral part of life in the Venetian lagoon in the 7th century B.C. Furthermore, after the year 1000 A.D. its production had become so important that it was protected by specific laws and all the glass workshops were moved to Murano. It was here that eyeglasses were invented in the 13th century and here that, in 1369, mirrors began to be produced. Glass was a rare commodity throughout the Renaissance: it was only in 1827 that production on an industrial level began. At that point, blown glass or glass produced by lampworking became a highly prized material used for artistic purposes, achieving its height of splendor during the Art Nouveau period. Artists including Lalique, Dammouse and Tiffany sought out the glassblowers of Murano to produce their famous works. During the mid-20th century, real masters of the art began to emerge in Murano including Signoretto, Ballarin, Zanetti and Vidal and their works are true collectors’ items which are often displayed at museums. Murano today has numerous glass factories, several of which boast an age-old history or a list of particularly prestigious collaborations (i.e. Venini).

sportswear. www.laparigina.it. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 733. T: 041 5231555. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4 • Open daily 9am-1pm/4pm-8pm. Venezia Lido, Gran Viale S. M. Elisabetta 14, T: 041 2420475. Vaporetto line 2 (Lido stop). Off Map

Michele De Fina

Highly select leather shoes, its owner oversees each stage of the working process from the cutting of the leather to the end creation. Craftsmanship and Italian style are the hallmark traits of Venetian shoe designer Michele De Fina. Open daily 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm. www.micheledefina.com. San Marco, 318/A (Calle della Canonica). T: 041 3030189. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop or San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

René Caovilla

In the 1950s, twenty-year-old René started working w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 21


[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]

Luxury Top Brands A new addition every day! The world of designer boutiques in Venice is making waves, and the majority of big-name brands are located around St. Mark’s Square, the great heart of Venice. By heading towards the Accademia from St. Mark’s Square, you will find yourself in Calle Larga XXII Marzo, the widest street in the city, lined with the window displays of the most coveted international brands. A system of ‘calli’ (the word for street in Venetian dialect) known as the ‘Mercerie’ leads from the Clock Tower in St. Mark’s Square to the Rialto, where Venice’s old ‘botteghe’ (workshops) have now been replaced by luxury boutiques. DEPARTMENT STORES T FONDACO DEI TEDESCHITfondaco.com Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge) T: 041 3142000. Map F3 COIN EXCELSIORwww.coinexcelsior.com Cannaregio, 5787 (Rialto Bridge) T: 041 5203581. Map F3

BALENCIAGAwww.balenciaga.com San Marco, 1310 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5230806. Map F5

BOTTEGA VENETAwww.bottegaveneta.com San Marco, 1473 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5228489. Map F5

FENDIwww.fendi.com San Marco, 1582 (Calle Frezzaria). T: 041 2778532. Map F4

BULGARIwww.bulgari.com San Marco, 1494. T: 041 2410553. Map F4

FRATELLI ROSSETTIwww.fratellirossetti.com Campo San Salvador, 4800. T: 041 5230571. Map F4 • San Marco, 1477 (San Moisè). T: 041 5220819. Map F5

BURBERRYit.burberry.com San Marco, 2308 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 240291. Map E5 CARTIERwww.cartier.it San Marco, 1474/1495 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Map F4 CHANEL www.chanel.com San Marco, 2070 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2405399. Map E5 CHANEL BEAUTY San Marco, 1254/A. T: 041 2708699. Map F3

GUCCIwww.gucci.com San Marco, 2102 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413968. Map F4 • San Marco, 258 (Mercerie). T: 041 5229119. Map E5 HERMÈSitaly.hermes.com San Marco, 1292 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2410715. Map F5

CHURCH’Swww.church-footwear.com San Marco, 1316 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2410147. Map F5

HUGO BOSSwww.hugoboss.com Piazza San Marco, 80 (Bacino Orseolo 1218). T: 041 5224378. Map F4

DAMIANI www.damiani.com San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Map F5

LORO PIANAwww.loropiana.com San Marco Ascensione, 1301. T: 041 2770695. Map F5

DIOR www.dior.com San Marco, 1255 (Calle Larga de l’Ascension). T: 041 2411636. Map F5

LOUIS VUITTONwww.louisvuitton.com San Marco, 1345. T: 041 5224500. Map F5

DOLCE&GABBANAwww.dolcegabbana.it San Marco, 2188 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5209991. Map F4

MAX MARAit.maxmara.com San Marco, 5033 (Mercerie). T: 041 5226688. Map F5

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNAwww.zegna.com Bocca di Piazza San Marco, 1241. T: 041 5221204. Map F4

MICHAEL KORSwww.michaelkors.comwww.michaelkors.it San Marco, 1461 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 2960312. Map F5

ETROwww.etro.com San Marco, 1340 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5232599. Map F5

MISSONI www.missoni.com San Marco, 1318/A (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5205733. Map F5 MIU MIUwww.miumiu.com San Marco, 1471 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 8106066. Map F5

BOGGI MILANOwww.boggi.com San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Map E4 • Stazione Santa Lucia (Fondamenta S. Lucia, 20). T: 041 5246445. Map C3

22 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2017

GIORGIO ARMANIwww.armani.com San Marco, 2282 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 8503048. Map F4

CHOPARDwww.chopard.com Piazza San Marco, 51. T: 041 5231883. Map F4

BALLYwww.bally.it San Marco, 4919-4921 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5285839. Map F4

BORSALINOwww.borsalino.com San Marco, 4822 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 2411945. Map F4

FURLAwww.furla.com San Marco, 4833 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 2770460.Map F4

Crafted in aged calf leather, CHURCH'S new ‘Mirfield’ sneaker epitomizes craftsmanship and style.

MONCLERwww.moncler.com San Marco, 2088 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2960605. Map E5 MONTBLANCwww.montblanc.com San Marco, 2380 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413747. Map F5 PRADAwww. prada.com San Marco, 1464/1469 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5283966. Map F5


TIFFANY & CO.www.tiffany.it San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Map F5 TOD’Swww.tods.com San Marco, 2251 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5206603. Map E5

The ‘Mercer Flora Patchwork’ tote bag by MICHAEL KORS is finished with whipstitch trim and a tassel detail.

VERSACEwww.versace.com San Marco, 1462 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 5200057. Map F5

This classic ‘Boogie’ hat by LORO PIANA is crafted in ultra-fine, hand-woven straw.

RENÉ CAOVILLA www.renecaovilla.com San Marco, 1296. T: 041 5238038. Map F4

ROBERTO CAVALLI www.robertocavalli.com San Marco, 1314. T: 041 5299020. Map F5

Sizing

ROCCA 1794 www.rocca1794.com Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 041 5201014. Map F4 SAINT LAURENTwww.ysl.com San Marco, 1302. T: 041 5202211. Map F4 SALVADORI DIAMOND ATELIER www.salvadori-venezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Map F4 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO www.ferragamo.com. San Marco, 2098 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2778509. Map E5 SWAROVSKIwww.swarovski.com San Marco, 256 (Mercerie dell’Orologio). T: 041 5210618. Map F4 SWATCHwww.swatch.com San Marco, 5022 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5228532. Map F4

Enhanced by the symbols of the ‘Serenissima’, this special collection of silk scarves by DOLCE&GABBANA pays tribute to the beauty of Venice.

IT 36 38 40 42 44 46 48

Women clothes EUR US 32 1 34 2 36 4 38 6 40 8 42 10 44 12

UK 4 6 8 10 12 14 16

IT 36 37 38 39 40 41

Women shoes EUR US 36 6 37 6.5 38 7.5 39 8.5 40 9 41 9.5

UK 3 4 5 6 7 8

IT 50 52 54 56 58 60

Men clothes EUR US 46 36 48 38 50 40 52 42 54 44 56 46

UK 36 38 40 42 44 46

IT 40 41 42 43 44 45 46

Men shoes EUR US 40 7.5 41 8 42 8.5 43 9 44 10.5 45 11.5 46 12

UK 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

Featuring a play of contrasts and opposites, PRADA’s captivating look for summer is highlighted by its unconventional elegance. w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 23


SHOPPING

Tax Free Refund Guide 1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods and services, and is part of the European Union’s value added tax system. 2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: • you are a non EU resident; • the goods purchased are intended for personal or family use only and are carried in your luggage; • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds 154,94 Euro (VAT included); • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice should include a description of the goods purchased, your personal information as well as the details of your passport or any other equivalent document; • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the third month after the month that you bought them; • several specific customs formalities are complied with; • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer within four months after the purchase was made. 4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must be shown at the customs exit point when leaving EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs BEFORE checking in). 5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice must be returned within four months from the date when the document was issued. 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax Free” sign in its window). 7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating the passenger from having to return the invoice to the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at major international airports or main border crossings. Most major department stores have Tax Free Refund offices. 8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply the payment of a small administrative sum which is directly deducted from the amount of VAT refunded to the traveller. 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund within a reasonable period of time, he or she should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the aforementioned companies. 10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded directly by customs offices. Source: www.agenziadoganemonopoli.gov.it/ portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund

24 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2017

at his family’s footwear factory, revealing his talent as a ‘footwear sculptor’. Based in Venice, he has collaborated with fashion houses of the likes of Valentino, Dior, Galliano, Chanel and is noted for the stunning line of "jewel shoes" he co-created with Karl Lagerfeld. Shoe-designer to the stars, A-listers who adore his creations include Gwen Stefani, Robin Wright, Britney Spears and Sarah Jessica Parker. PASSION TIP His pumps in Venetian lace are truly iconic! Open daily 10am-7pm. www.renecaovilla. com. San Marco, 1296. T: 041 5238038. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

SV Lab

As its name suggests, more than a shop, SV Lab is a creative workshop that its owner Carlo Sartori likes to describe as “his parallel world”. Not just a shop selling shoes and accessories - a place where you can create a sophisticated, eccentric total look - but also an open space where it is not unusual to find artists at work... Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-6pm. www.svlab.it. San Marco, 2663 (Campo

San Maurizio). T: 041 5220595. Vaporetto line 1 (Giglio stop). Map E5

CLOTHING MEN & WOMEN Al Duca d'Aosta

Originally established in Venice in 1902, Al Duca d’Aosta now boasts stores in six cities across the Triveneto region: Venice, Padua, Verona, Mestre, Treviso and Udine. The historical four-storey Venice location features over 100 top fashion brands for men and women, carefully selected to offer its clientele quality and elegance. These include casual men’s lines for a sporty-chic look, sartorial designs for savvy-style gentlemen and women’s wear, featuring the iconic accessories of the latest collections, including small leather goods and bijoux, for a glamorous, cosmopolitan aesthetic. The store offers numerous special facilities and services for its customers, including a Personal Shopping service

The Rialto Market

Rialto Market A trip to Venice is not complete without a visit to the Rialto Market, possibly one of the city’s most authentic and traditional experiences. This is one of Venice’s most ancient markets, a one-of-a-kind place crowded with Venetians, shopkeepers and tourists eager to shop. It is located near the Rialto Bridge, on the San Polo side, extending across the Canal Grande, between Campo San Giacomo and Campo della Pescaria. Campo San Giacomo is a beautiful square surrounded by a portico called Sottoportego del Bancogiro, an ancient bank where merchants would gather to negotiate. If you’d like to try the famous 'cicchetti', accompanied by a glass of wine or a spritz, a number of 'bacari', Venice’s traditional ‘osterie’, can also be found in the area. Several of these bars face

onto the opposite side of the building, on a magnificent plaza crowded with tables, and from here, if you walk along the river, you’ll reach a large food market, and finally, the Pescaria, the famous Fish Market. From early morning, on any day of the week (except Sunday) this vibrant place is frequented by Venetian locals, who regularly shop here, browsing its colourful stalls that are located under a loggia near the Grand Canal. Inscriptions about fish-related regulatory measures, proclaimed by the Republic of Venice, can still be found on the walls! >> Fish Market: Open Tues-Sat 7.30amnoon. Food Market: Mon-Sat 7.30am1.30pm. San Polo 330-338 (Campo della Pescaria). Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato) or traghetto from Campo Santa Sofia (€2).


SHOPPING and Tax Free Shopping. Open Mon-Sat 10am7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.alducadaosta.com. San Marco, 4945. T: 041 5220733. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Boggi Milano

An easy yet sophisticated look for businessmen on the go, but, above all, a guarantee of style for those who appreciate quality. Boggi Milano offers garments aimed at a contemporary, modern and cosmopolitan man who is not prepared to sacrifice the classics of the male wardrobe: the suit, a second skin that is so comfortable that it can be worn on any occasion. Other locations: Cannaregio (inside the Santa Lucia Railway Station, Platform 6- Fondamenta Santa Lucia, 20) and Marco Polo Airport. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. www. boggi.it. San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

DEPARTMENT STORES Coin Excelsior

Located in Cannaregio, just a few steps from the Rialto Bridge, this luxury department store store extends over four floors surrounding the original indoor courtyard where designer Felice Limosani’s lighting installation is showcased. The store provides a selection of both Italian and International fashion brands, as well as furniture (on the top floor), cosmetics and luxury perfumery (ground floor). Open daily 10am-8.30pm. www.coinexcelsior.com. Cannaregio, 5787. T: 041 5203581. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3

T Fondaco dei Tedeschi

The recently renovated 16th century building that extends over 7000 sqm is a luxury shopping, food and cultural destination. Surrounding a central courtyard, the store offers the best in leading Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, jewellery and watches, wines and spirits, beauty and fragrances, food and a rich selection of local gifts. Don’t miss the specially curated cultural program on the 4th floor and the breathtaking view from the roof terrace. In partnership with Premier Tax Free, the store will also offer an instant detax at the cash desk when the payment is made by credit card, the first of this kind in Europe. Open daily 10am-8.30pm. www.TFondaco.com. Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge). T: 041 3142000. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3

Palmanova Outlet Village

Just one hour from Venice, Palmanova Outlet Village offers 90 stores with the trendiest brands discounted by up to 70% and open all year around: Adidas-Reebok, Aldo Bruè, Baldinini, Alberta Ferretti-Moschino, Calvin Klein, Fedon, Iceberg, Ixos-Malloni, Nike, Piquadro, Pollini and many others. Tax refund for Non-EU citizens. In addition to shopping, Palmanova Outlet Village makes you discover a land full of history and taste: the picturesque hills of the Collio region, the landscapes of Friuli’s Dolomites and the Alps, close to the Karst plateau with the historical sites of the Great War and the star-shaped city of Palmanova, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Open daily 10am8pm. www.palmanovaoutlet.it. Take the A4 highway Venezia-Trieste and exit at Palmanova. Infoline: T: 0432 837810. Off Map

JEWELRY & WATCHES Audemars Piguet

A must-visit stopover for luxury watch lovers. A purveyor of classic watches since 1875, Audemars Piguet is the place to go for elegant timepieces, made to the very highest standards. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-6.30pm. www.audemarspiguet.com. Piazza San Marco, 18. T: 041 5285519. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Boncompagni Venezia

This historic boutique in St. Mark’s Square stocks some of Italy’s most coveted jewelry brands, offering its clientele a unique selection of beautifully crafted pieces. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-6pm. www.boncompagnivenezia.com. Piazza San Marco,

130/131/132. T: 041 5224563. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Cartier

In addition to its renowned collections of haute joaillerie, Cartier is also famous for its priceless timepieces, a perfect mix of design and technology, enhanced by precious metals and diamonds. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am7pm. www.cartier.it. San Marco, 1474/1475 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Chopard

Famed for its creativity, state-of-the-art technology and outstanding savoir-faire, the Swiss Jewelry brand opens doors to jet-set luxury and glamour, while its traditional watches are made with all the aplomb of a master craftsman. Open daily 10.15am-6.30pm. www.chopard.it. Piazza San Marco, 51. T: 041 5231883. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Damiani

A reference point in the world of high-end jewelry, Damiani is renowned for its unmistakable style and innovative technical solutions, including its ‘a lunette d’illusione’ setting designed to highlight the brilliance of its stones. www.damiani.com. San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Dodo

The range of luxurious yet cute gold jewelry created by Dodo, the brand founded by Pomellato in 1995, is by now a classic either for gift or collection purposes thanks to its iconic good luck charms, each of which has its own special meaning. www.dodo.it. c/o Coin

In the heart of Venice near the Rialto Bridge, this is a unique boutique and workshop where precious stones are cut and transformed into genuine, wearable works of art. For more than thirty years, Gems of Venice has sourced several of the world's most precious stones including jade, diamonds and gems… taking us back to the fascinating voyages of Venetian merchant Marco Polo.

FASHION OUTLETS Noventa di Piave Designer Outlet

With more than 130 stores, cafés and restaurants, visitors can find their favourite labels with price reductions of up to 70%, all year round, and further discounts at the annual summer and winter sales. From iconic fashion brands like Prada, Gucci, Armani, Fendi, Jil Sander and Paul Smith to sporting labels, like Nike and X-Bionic, and high-street favourites, like Guess and Desigual. Easy to reach from Venice, Treviso, Jesolo, Padua and the beaches in the region, it offers endless entertainment, from the children’s adventure play area to restaurants and cafés and even an annual summer music festival. Tax refund for Non-EU citizens. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.mcarthurglen.com. Via Marco Polo, 1 (Noventa di Piave, 30 minutes from Venice). T: 0421 5741. Off Map

www.gemsofvenice.it San Polo, 1044 (Ruga Rialto-Rughetta Ravano) T: 041 5225148

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SHOPPING

JAEGERLECOULTRE See page 34.

Excelsior (www.coinexcelsior.com). Cannaregio, 5787. T: 041 5203581. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3

Gems of Venice

For more than thirty years, Gems of Venice has sourced the most precious stones, which are then processed at its workshop near the Rialto Bridge, in the heart of Venice, to become authentic wearable art. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-9.30pm; Sun 10.30am-2pm/3.30pm-6.30pm. San Polo, 1044. T: 041 5225148. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop).

Map E4

IWC Schaffhausen

Swiss watchmaker IWC has opened an elegant space in Venice’s famed and fabled St. Mark’s Square. The brand’s new boutique, located in one of the most beautiful cities in the world, is

ROCCA 1794 See page 28.

a must-visit for any watch enthusiast. Fans of its luxury timepieces are invited to discover the fascinating world of IWC’s six watch families, its innovative craftsmanship and all the allure of highend watchmaking. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www.iwc.com. Piazza San Marco, 43. T: 041 8842451. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Jaeger-LeCoultre

A meeting place for collectors and haute horlogerie enthusiasts, at this boutique customers will have the pleasure of discovering the latest creations and exquisite timepieces designed by this master of Swiss watchmaking. Open daily 10am-7pm. www.jaeger-lecoultre.com. Piazza San Marco, 65. T: 041 884241. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F5

IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN See page 34.

Nardi Venezia

A combination of a love of precious stones and a passion for the art of goldsmithery make Nardi’s jewelry rare accessories to be worn or collected, the epitome of sheer Venetian elegance. Open daily 10am-6.30pm. www.nardi-venezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 69. T: 041 5225733. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F5

Omega

Omega is a pioneer in the field of watchmaking. Quality and innovation are key to the vision of one of Switzerland’s most famous haute horologists. At its Venetian boutique, you can find all the excellence of these precious creations thanks to its extensive collection of luxurious timepieces for men and women. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.omegawatches.com. San Marco, 1291. T: 041 5220820. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco stop or San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Pomellato

Established in 1967 as an artisanal workshop, over the years, its contemporary jewelry has captivated wearers around the world. Pomellato creates highly sought-after collections featuring a range of stones boasting myriad colours and ultra-feminine designs. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.pomellato.com. San Marco, 2031 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5231909. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Rocca 1794

AUDEMARS PIGUET St. Mark ‘s square acts as the perfect backdrop to the new boutique of the famous ‘Le Brassus’ brand, a reference point of aesthetic integrity, architectural design, innovation and craftsmanship.

26 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2017

The boutique’s sweeping window display, overlooking the famous St. Mark’s Square, host the collections of prestigious brands including Damiani and Salvini, but also the iconic models of some of the world’s most coveted high-end watchmakers including A. Lange & Söhne, piaget, Hublot, Zenith and Longines. Also particularly worthy of note are the splendid creations in glass handcrafted by Venini, unique artifacts that add a definite touch of allure to the space. Expert collectors or those who are new to the game can count on a service of excellence which entails full pre- and post-sale assistance. Other services include a full maintenance service with check ups and providing international certificates. www.rocca1794.com. Open daily 10.30am-7pm. Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 02 5201014. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map F4


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style and the very RAMO TA R IO DEL M CORTE DEL ORA ROLEX RETAILER Salvadori was founded in L best in design. POZETO DE ORO CAMPIELLO Venice in 1857. A member of the World Federation Open daily 10amThis unconventional, whimsical and FO DE LA MADONNA Ca' Pesaro N of Diamond Bourses, Salvadori S T purchases its D 7.30pm. www.tiffany. original creation by DODO is inspired CAMPIELLO CAMPIELLO A Santa Sofia R alleria Internazionale VALMARANA DEL PESTRIN diamonds from Antwerp and TelA Aviv, accompanied DA CA it. San Marco, 1336 (Calle by Coachella boho chic. LL C O RT E San Lazzaro E NO d'Arte Moderna VA B ATA G I A by the highest diamond quality certificates. Open R VA IS Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Ca’ D’Oro CO CORTE dei Mendicanti CORTESE CAMPIELLO Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www. Vaporetto line 2 (San MarcoSTELLA CORTE NOVA salvadori-venezia.eu. Diamond Atelier Venice: Piazza Map F5 Vallaresso stop). Santi Apostoli CAMPIELLO San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Salvadori Boutique WIDMANN CAMPIELLO CAL TI OZ GAB LE DELLA CASON Cà T: d'Oro Rolex: Piazza San Marco, 44. 041 2602313. Salvadori R IE ZI LI from La Fenice Opera House. Its neo-Gothic Boutique Panerai: Piazza San Marco, 47. T: 041 S.Canciano Ospedale SS. Giovann CAMPIELLO Chiesa Evangelica décor and ornamentation in walnut, wood and N C S A N C A N C I A N O D R IO A L L 5200899. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso AN E M LE Luterana ID SCU Ca’ Macana W O reflect the typical style of ancient terracotta, L E LE stop). Map F5 AL One of the oldest and finest mask making CCAMPO Venetian ‘palazzi’. The Merchant of Venice is S.MARIA NOVA CAMPO DELLA CAL Tag Cassiano Heuer workshops in Venice for Carnival, theatre, film not only aL Aline of products but a wider project LE San N PESCARIA RGA A N ZI A G. G A N C Macana crafts Since 1860 Tag Heuer has been setting milestones production and parties. D A SCa’ which includes aA L Lconcept store in Murano, the ZA IN A LI SA Santa Maria R IO CAMPO in Swiss watchmaking. It is the first watchmaker authentic handmade masks in the same way Palazzo Mocenigo Museum in Santa Croce, the DE Basilica dei SAN CASSAN CAMPO DE LA I M dei Miracoli to master luxury sports that Venetian artisans did 800 years ago,IRAnever Spice shop in Ercole d’Oro (Cannaregio) and the BECARIE chronographs with an San Giovanni Santi Giovanni e Paolo CO CA C A LL E LL L CAMPO CAMPO DEL ED I unsurpassed precision. Tag Heuer’s constant repeating a decoration in order to ensure that each FO Rspace at the Marco Polo Airport. Grisostomo World of Venice CA EC NO CESARE BATTISTI CAL LL A’ LE C ED MU SANTI GIOVANNI GIÀ A S EL T quest for innovation, excellence, performance and TI mask is unique. Thanks to their expertise, they LI Open Tues-Sun DELLA A BO Teatro Malibran ELwww.themerchantofvenice.com. E PAOLO BELLA VIENNA TA prestige is reflected in its partnerships with the CAMPO also hold conferences and courses on the history 10.30am-7.30pm. San Marco, 1895 (Campo San CA LL E DE LE SAN GIACOMETO Chiesa dell’Ospe ER BE Red BullDRacing F1 team. Open daily 10am-7pm. of Venetian masks andCORTE traditional CA Fantin). T: 041 2960559. Vaporetto line 1 (San SECONDA mask-making EL MP San Giacomo DEL MILION CARAMPANE SA IEL L www.tagheuer.com. San Marco, 1298 (Salizada NS O Their masks were featured in important Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4 BA RB AR ON di Rialtotechniques. IA DE LE DE Casa “Eyes di Marco Polo TO LE San Moisè). T:I 041 5211401. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto film productions including Wide Shut” by CA RA MP Venini O CAMPO AN Map F4 stop). Stanley Kubrick and in operas including those CAMPIELLO E RIALTO Fontego DEL SOL NUOVO An artistic space, where you rediscover all the staged by the Vienna Opera House. Open daily dei Tedeschi Tiffany & Co. elegance and sophistication of the exquisite O N 10am-7.30pm. www.camacana.com. Maskmaking A AV C R ALL C. D L Founded in 1837 Sant’Aponal ED EL F D E in New York, Tiffany & Co. is a creations handcrafted by Master glassmakers C .M EL ONT TA and Courses: 3215. Showrooms: A RT P IO E G Dorsoduro, HE M O G IN Ponte BO EN RU world-renowned jeweller. Since its introduction in GO from Murano. A prime location for passionate D. P SA CAL Dorsoduro, 3172 and Dorsoduro N G FO L E G 1169. T: 041 ALL S di Rialto ALIZZA CORTE E IA Z Z CAMPO N CAMPO IOVNDA ® CORTE O AN ME Setting has been known as the DO 1886, the Tiffany TREVISAN CAMPO collectors, or those whose want to further their DEL NI NT ER SAN APONAL SAN BORTOLOMIO DA Vaporetto LA A P 2776142. line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). L DEL VOLTO PRESTRIN TE PIO RA DE CAMPO NO ultimate symbol of love, paving the way for Tiffany’s X E knowledge about an entirely Italian art, Venetian LL A SAN LIO C Rialto CAMPIELLO legendary CAMPO collection of engagement rings. Bold, The Merchant of Venice PIELLO San Silvestro glass creations, meticulously handcrafted by Master SANTA MARIA SAL DEI IZ A DE FORMOSA modernSAN collections, including the elegant, minimalist The prestigiousC. Dstand-alone boutique ofD Athis FONDAMENTA SAN SILVESTRO craftsmen. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.venini. LONI EL G L IO DEI PRETI ALIA ZZO creations designed by Elsa Peretti andFontego the brightly- CALLE L brand which represents the ‘Art of Perfumery in com. San Marco, 314. T:Maria 041 5224045. Other location:CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO Santa AR C. LA RGA A DEL Santa Maria coloured lines by PalomaRava Picasso, Dolfin have madeManin Tiffany GVenice’ MA isCORTE housed in the former, mid-17th century Formosa Palazzo Fondamenta Vetrai, 47 (Murano). T: 041 2737204. BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO ZZ Palazzo CORTE SABION CAMPO IN I DEL MONDO della Fava Vaporetto a destination for those seeking spectacular beauty, C. DE Fantin, CAMPOIELLO DE LA located FAVA apothecary of San just steps Grimani Rialto line 2 (Rialto or San Marco stops). CORTE NUOVO L CALI DE LA PASINA CE M BA F RU

VONI


VENETIANS

PHOTO © DE LUNA_WHEREITALIA

UNIQUE IN VENICE

PHOTO © DE LUNA_WHEREITALIA

Eredi Jovon

Eredi Jovon's cameo

La Bottega dei Mascareri

Artisanal ‘botteghe’, tiny jewel-like boutiques and vintage shops, this 'unique' city offers an array of 'unique' locations where you can indulge in an authentic shopping experience and purchase objet d’art, fabrics and accessories that you'll be hard put to find elsewhere. While strolling through its ‘calli’, you will discover how the tradition cultivated by the latter endows this city with its characteristic vibrancy… for the theatre, the cinemas and fashion shows, and are considered among several of the most established manufacturers of collector’s items. They were the first mask makers to embellish their masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.mascarer.com. San Polo, 80 (Vaporetto line 1 or 2, Rialto stop). T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, 2720 T: 041 5242887 (Vaporetto line 1 or 2, San Tomà stop). Map E3

Tessitura Bevilacqua La Bottega dei Mascareri The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian masks, including jesters, elves and characters from the ‘Commedia dell’Arte’ for a trip back into 18th century Venice. The Mascareri have also worked

28 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2017

Eredi Jovon A celebrated Venetian jeweler since 1934, and the owner of one of the few remaining historical shops on the Rialto bridge, Eredi Jovon is famous for its hand-carved Italian shell and blue agate cameos, set in silver or gold, and available at factory prices or on special offer. The shop is also renowned for its beautiful coral, Murano glass and blackamoor jewelry. High quality, superior craftsmanship and its wide assortment of cameos and customized coral jewelry allow Eredi Jovon to satisfy the individual tastes of even the most discerning customers. WHERE TIP Eredi Jovon daily crafts fully handmade cameos, created upon request based on a picture. All creations can be ordered online and shipped all around the world, thanks to an efficient e-commerce service. Open daily 10am7.30pm. www.eredijovon.com. Ponte di Rialto,

Piedàterre

5325. T: 041 5228979 (Vaporetto line 1 or 2, Rialto stop). Map F4 Piedàterre Tucked away under an arcade just steps from the Rialto bridge is a tiny boutique with an astonishing selection of handmade slippers, where Alessandra and Renato make and sell colourful ‘furlane’ (slippers), handcrafted with recycled bicycle-tyre treads, ideal for finding your footing on a gondola. Their creations are available in coloured velvet, brocade, printed fabrics or recycled shirting, provided by their customers. Highly original and absolutely unmissable! Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.piedaterre-venice.com. San Polo, 60 (Ruga Rialto, Sotoportego dei Oresi). T: 041 5285513. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato). Map E3 Tessitura Bevilacqua Artisanal weavers specializing in the production of exquisite, decorative fabrics for furnishings and curtains. A unique place! Since 1875, the company has practiced the art of weaving on original looms that once belonged to the Venetian School of Silk. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-4pm (Sat-Sun by appointment). www.luigi-bevilacqua.com. Santa Croce 1320. T: 041 721566. Vaporetto line 1 (Riva de Biasio stop). Map E5


ADVERTORIAL

OTTICA MANTOVANI Sun and prescription glasses, the most technologically advanced lenses and the most comfortable, fashionable frames. Managed by the Carlon family since the ‘40s, it is now run by the third generation of opticians: a reference point for locals requiring either prescription eyewear or sunglasses. In fact, one of the Mantovani’s most famous customers was Peggy Guggenheim. Map F4 www.xxxxxx.org Viale xxxxx, 6 www.otticamantovani.it T:San 02 xxxxx Marco, 4860 (Mercerie del Capitello). More www.wheremilan.com T: 041info: 5223427.

ANTICHI SPLENDORI Devoted to the ongoing search for objet d’art and antiques, the mission of this highly qualified antique dealer is to keep the interest in authentic masterpieces alive. Its San Lio-based store in Venice offers a careful selection of the city’s artistic treasures, with a particular focus on antique jewelry, Murano glass from the 11th to 20th centuries and paintings of Venetian landscapes. Map F4 Castello, 5545 (Salizada S. Lio). T: 041 5239265.

ROMA 1947 ‘Roma 1947’, the jewelry brand inspired by ‘La Dolce Vita’ and Italian style, recently launched its first standalone store just steps from St. Mark’s Square. Crafted in silver and bronze, and reinterpreted in a contemporary key, the brand’s rings, bracelets, necklaces and earrings reference the voluptuous shapes of Roman domes and the colours of the Eternal City’s stunning sunset views. Map F4 roma1947.it San Marco, 231.

OFFICINA BERNARDI The Bernardi brothers, Francesco and Carlo, recently opened their first monobrand store in the city. Authentic Italian style, exquisite designs and meticulous craftsmanship characterize the precious gold and silver collections of this brand who have made Italian creativity their signature feature. Map F5

www.officinabernardi.com Piazza San Marco, 110. T: 041 5287906 More info: www.where-venice.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 29


SHOPPING

Discovering Venice’s art galleries

VENETIANS

Galleria Contini

PHOTO © COURTESY THE ARTIST AND VICTORIA MIRO, LONDON © CHRIS OFILI

Is Venice really a place to buy objet d’art? Definitely! There are so many large and small 20th century and contemporary art galleries in the city that it’s almost impossible to list them all. Where® has selected a pick, renowned for their quality, tradition, or originality. By Romena Brugnerotto Galleria Contini is a must-visit address for modern and contemporary art. Boasting more than 40 years in the business (it’s the oldest gallery in Venice), it exhibits works by important Italian and international artists including Mitoraj, Botero and Giuseppe Veneziano (San Marco 2288, www.continiarte.com). Other galleries, such as Luce Arte Moderna, are renowned for their display of works associated with the city (San Marco 1922, www.gallerialuce.com). The smallest gallery in the city is Giorgio Mastinu Fine Art. Its rich catalogue of works is the result of the multiple passions of its owners and is well worth a visit (San Marco 3126, www.giorgiomastinufineart.it).

Victoria Miro Gallery. Chris Ofili, Poolside Magic 8.

30 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2017

Newcomers? Coinciding with the launch of the Biennale, Venice’s gallery scene has been further enriched by the opening of a new branch of Galerie Alberta Pane. The new, 300-square-meter space, a former carpentry shop turned art gallery, will create an artistic link between Paris and Venice. In keeping with the space’s history as a workshop, the gallery will allow artists to give life to ambitious projects such as large scale installations and will offer artist workshops and talks on contemporary art as part of its programs (Dorsoduro 2403/h, www.galeriealbertapane.com). Among the new

Galerie Alberta Pane. Christian Fogarolli, Project of Phantom Model of Prof. Chr. Aeby.


SHOPPING

openings, the Victoria Miro Gallery has arrived directly from London to take up residence in the former space of Venice’s historic “Il Capricorno” gallery. The London dealer has brought several of the important artists represented by her to the heart of the city (San Marco 1994, www.victoriamiro.com). Located in the so-called Art Mile, in the sestiere of Dorsoduro which is teeming with museums and galleries, another must-visit venue is Galleria L’Occhio which, until 7 June, will host the works of Tobia Ravà, a Venetian artist renowned for researching the mystic currents of Judaism (San Marco 1994, www.gallerialocchio.net). Must-visit addresses for lovers of photography? The Ikona Photo Gallery housed in the picturesque spaces of the Ghetto Novo. Since 1979, thanks to its association with the Ikona International School of Photography, it has brought the best-known names in international photography to Venice (www.ikonavenezia.com). The ghetto is also home to Melori & Rosenberg, a historic gallery renowned for exhibiting the works of hyperrealist painter Luigi Rocca

(Cannaregio 2919, www.melori-rosenberg.com). Fans of photography should also plan a visit to the Bugno Art Gallery that exhibits the works of well-known Italian photographers including Campigotto, Morucchio and Galimberti (San Marco 1996/d, www.bugnoartgallery.com). It goes without saying that Venice is one of the best places to purchase glass objects. Due to its in-depth knowledge of artistic glass, Berengo Studio 1989 has invited several of the world’s best-known contemporary artists to experiment with this material and create unique pieces (Fondamenta dei Vetrai 109/a, www.berengostudio1989.com). Other go-to spaces in the city include Caterina Tognon who represents the most important artists of Studio Glass (San Marco 2158, www.caterinatognon.com).

Galleria L'Occhio. Tobia Ravà, 948 vortice di pace.

Collectors of wearable art should head to OhMyBlue. This unique venue sells contemporary artistic jewelry, bags, accessories, everyday items, glass items, ceramics and porcelain, all carefully selected from the best international offerings available on the market (San Polo 2865, www.ohmyblue.com).

Giorgio Mastinu

OhMyBlue. Liisa Hashimoto, Leaf Garden ring.

Berengo Studio 1989. Aldo Mondino, Jongleur.

Luce Arte Moderna. Riccardo Licata, Untitled.

w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 31


SHOPPING

Top antiques

VENETIANS

Tessitura Bevilacqua

Venice is infused with so many historical and artistic artefacts that the city’s passion for antiques is literally embedded within its soul. There are so many large and small workshops that it is almost impossible to list them all. Where® has selected a pick, renowned for their quality and tradition. Alessandro Zoppi A true son of Venice, Alessandro Zoppi, one of the most passionate and authoritative collectors and art merchants in the city, spent his youth travelling extensively abroad. In 1961, he moved to London where he stayed for a few years. The owner, for more than a decade, of the highly prestigious Antichità Cesana, today, Zoppi’s house-museum features a number of pieces from his impressive collections, with a particular emphasis on artistic glass objet d’art dating from the 16th through 20th centuries. PASSION TIP Visiting his house-museum, or even talking to Alessandro Zoppi, is like taking a marvellous journey back in time. By appointment only. T: 335 6657005. email: winglets13@gmail.com. Antichi Splendori Devoted to the ongoing search for objet d’art and antiques, the mission of this highly qualified antique dealer is to keep the interest in authentic masterpieces alive. Its San Lio-based store in Venice offers a careful selection of the city’s artistic treasures, with a particular focus on antique jewelry, Murano glass from the 11th to 20th centuries and paintings of Venetian landscapes. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-7pm. Castello, 5545 (Salizada S. Lio) T: 041 5239265. info@antichisplendori.com. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

32 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2017

Antichità San Samuele An antiques dealer since the Seventies, Silvana Vianello is renowned for her research and expertise in the field. PASSION TIP San Samuele specializes in religious antiques, with a particular focus on sculptures dating from the 13th through 18th centuries. Open: Mon-Sat 10am-12.30pm/3.30pm7.30pm. San Marco, 3130 (Calle delle Botteghe). T: 041 5204900. Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop). Map E4 Antichità Zanutto Continuing a longstanding family tradition, in the 1970s, Vincenzo Zanutto chose San Marco to open his workshop specializing in antique paintings, with a particular focus on Venetian artists. Also offers evaluations and certified appraisals. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-12.30pm/4.30pm-7.30pm. San Marco, 2013 (Calle delle Veste, near the Teatro La Fenice). T: 041 5235359. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio or San Marco stop). Map E5

Antichità San Samuele

Ca’ Nova Boasting over 40 years in the industry, Ca' Nova which means ‘new house’, has decorated several of Venice’s most elegant homes with its upholstery fabrics. Wallpaper, curtains, tablecloths and hand-woven sheets. Open Mon-Fri 9am12.30pm/3pm-7.30pm; Sat 9am-12.30pm. www. canovatessutitendaggi.com. San Marco, 4264/a (Campo San Luca). T: 041 5203834. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4 Franco Dell’Orto This well-known antique carpet gallery stocks a fabulous range of large Caucasian and Persian rugs, European tapestries and large-scale decorative pieces. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-12.30pm/3.30pm7.30pm; Sat 9.30am-12.30pm. www.francodellorto. com. San Marco, 2052/b (Calle delle Veste, near Teatro La Fenice). T: 041 5224736. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio or San Marco stop). Map E5

Alessandro Zoppi


SHOPPING

Le Zoie Michele Dal Bon’s atelier is infused with personality. PASSION TIP This eclectic shop showcase rare antique watches and jewelry but also specializes in collections that are unlikely to be found elsewhere, including objects inspired by ancient ‘theriaca’, a medical concoction also known as Venice treacle. Open Tues-Sat 9.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. www.lezoie. com. San Polo, 1566 (Calle dei Boteri) T: 041 2758694. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3 Libreria Antiquaria Linea d’Acqua Antique books and priceless prints focusing primarily on preservation and authentic bookbinding methods. PASSION TIP Specializes in 18th century illustrated books, maps and views of Venice and engravings by 18th century Venetian masters. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-12.30pm/3.30pm-7pm; Sat 10.30am12.30pm. www.lineadacqua.it. San Marco 3717/d (Calle della Mandola). T: 041 5224030. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Venezia, Le Stampe Turio

Studio Arga The owner of Studio Arga, Gabriella Tallon’s expertise in Oriental and Asian antiques makes this gallery a must-visit reference point. Open by appointment. www.argainc.com. San Marco 3659/a (Calle della Verona corner of Rio Terà dei Assassini). T: 041 2411124. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto or San Samuele stop) and line 2 (San Marco stop). Map E4

Venetia Studium

Tessitura Bevilacqua Artisanal weavers specializing in the production of exquisite, decorative fabrics for furnishings and curtains. PASSION TIP A unique place! Since 1875, the company has practiced the art of weaving on original looms that once belonged to the Venetian School of Silk. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am4pm (Sat-Sun by appointment). www.luigibevilacqua.com. Santa Croce 1320. T: 041 721566. Vaporetto line 1 (Riva de Biasio stop). Map D3 Venetia Studium The Lando family’s mission is to create and sell “modern object that speak an ancient language”. Venetia Studium not only stocks a wide range of Fortuny® lamps but also splendid silk pillows, fabrics, handbags and other accessories inspired by the ambiences loved by Marià Fortuny. Open daily 10am-7pm. www.venetiastudium.com San Marco, 2425. T: 041 5236953. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto or Santa Maria del Giglio stop). Map E5

Venezia, Le Stampe Turio At this small, refined showroom, Camilla Nicolai continues a family tradition established at the end of the 19th century by her great grandfather Osvaldo Böhm. Stocks a wide selection of frames, antiques and handcrafted Venetian objet d’art. PASSION TIP Specializes in antique decorative prints. Open 10.30am-1pm/3.30pm-7pm. www.venezialestampe.it. San Marco, 4606 (Calle Teatro Goldoni). T: 041 5234318. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Ca' Nova

Franco Dell'Orto

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STROLLING THROUGH BURANO

BY STEFANO TRAINE

In addition to Murano and Torcello, this island on the Venetian Lagoon should not be missed. Loved (and widely photographed) by tourists, it is famous for its colourful houses, butter biscuits and above all, its handcrafted lace.

With a population of only three thousand inhabitants, the island’s row of houses, whose facades boast all the colours of the rainbow, are truly spectacular and make it one of the most picturesque places on earth! However, the origin of this tradition of painting the houses in bright colours was not only for aesthetic reasons. Legend has it that its fishermen, often confused by frequent banks of fog, devised a chromatic code that would help them identify their own landing piers more easily. Each colour corresponded to a family, to their house and to their address. BURANO LACE. The island is also the capital of handmade lace, a craft kept alive for centuries by the wives of fishermen waiting for their husbands to return from sea. The work is extremely exacting, with each woman specializing in a single stitch. Since there are seven stitches in total, each piece is passed from woman to woman to finish. Groups of women work diligently for days to produce items, whether large or small, of matchless beauty: trims for dresses, accessories, tablecloths, gloves, umbrellas and masks, all made from this delicate, white lace, crafted with a painstaking attention to detail that has lasted for centuries. While on the island, make sure to visit the Museum of Lace-Making to understand 34 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2017

why something so exquisite should not become extinct (Piazza Galuppi, 187). GASTRONOMIC TRADITION. Butter biscuits known as Buranelli (either ring or S-shaped) are famous on the island and you will be offered them wherever you go. However, this is not the only specialty that you’ll find. The island has a long-standing gastronomic tradition linked, above all, to fresh fish.

HOW TO REACH BURANO Vaporetto line number 12 runs from the Venice-Fondamente Nove stop to Burano (1 hour). If you’re not in a hurry, the Venetians recommend taking line 14 from San Zaccaria (Pietà stop). Take a look at the venue where the Film Festival is held, and admire the MOSE flood barrier, the huge hydraulic engineering project designed to protect the lagoon.


ADVERTORIAL

MARTINA VIDAL The Vidal family has been making Burano lace for over four generations. Today, Martina Vidal is a luxury home linen atelier where passion, tradition, quality, and craftsmanship are combined to create unique, inimitable items made from only the finest quality fabrics.

www.martinavidal.com Via San Mauro, 309. T: 041 735523.

TRATTORIA DA ROMANO Run by the Barbaro family for four generations, this picturesque eatery has retained all of its timeless appeal. Recognized for more than fifty years as one of the few prestigious art restaurants in Venice, Romano manages the trattoria with the help of his wife, Siora Gigia. Standouts include ancient Burano specialties, and the chef’s signature mixed grill cooked over wood.

www.daromano.it Via Galuppi, 221. T: 041 730030.

LA PERLA GALLERY The Bon family in Burano offers an assortment of only the finest handmade items including antique lace, high quality made-to-order tablecloths, furnishing accessories, household linens, refined silk for lingerie and clothing, christening gowns and children’s clothing (up to age 10), exclusive scarves in silk and cashmere and Venetian masks.

Via Galuppi, 287-376. T: 041 730009 More info: www.where-venice.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 35


DINING

AMO, three letters that embody taste Located just steps from the Rialto Bridge, the atrium of luxury department store T Fondaco dei Tedeschi is home to AMO, the new exclusive Venetian café/restaurant run by the Alajmo brothers. By Stefania Vida

A

t T Fondaco dei Tedeschi, Venice’s dazzlingly luxurious department store, both Venetians and international visitors can satisfy their gourmet palates at AMO, the new location opened by the Alajmo brothers (Massimiliano and Raffaele), from one of Italy’s most revered culinary families. AMO is not simply a restaurant, but a place where the simple, authentic and light ingredients featured on the menu combine to free the spirit and open the heart. A great design space, where no detail has been left to chance and is magnificently curated, in

this instance by the well-known French designer and architect Philippe Starck! Each piece of furniture designed by Monsieur Starck is an embodiment of pure Venetian spirit. The sofas have been designed to look like gondolas, the windows have been forged by master glassblowers from Murano and the walls feature patterns inspired by the Carnival of Venice. The cafeteria, which is open throughout the day, begins serving food in the morning, starting with breakfast. The menu features a list of different types of Italian coffees paired with several light gastronomic offerings (with and without flour), and pastries where

A gastronomic experience embodying the real soul of Venice, with its symbols and mysteries

36 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2017

butter is substituted with olive oil. The counter located inside the cafeteria welcomes guests with an array of individually sliced cakes and macarons, gourmet sandwiches, ‘pizzette’ and a special type of fried ‘cicchetto’ that changes on a daily basis. The lunch and dinner menus, on the other hand, offer a selection of meat, fish and vegetable dishes, three different types of pizza (oven-baked, steamed or fried) and classic ‘Alajmo’ dishes including ‘Cappuccino di patate’… Take your pick! >> c/o T Fondaco di Tedeschi by DFS San Marco, 5556 www.alajmo.it/amo www.tfondaco.com


PHOTO © FEDERICO NERO

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

TASTING EXPERIENCE Enoteca Al Volto

Excellent wine accompanied by traditional ‘cicchetti’ and Venetian fish specialties, Enoteca Al Volto invites diners into its warm, welcoming atmosphere. €. Open daily 11.30am-3pm and 6pm-10pm. San Marco, 4081 (Calle Cavalli). T: 041 5228945. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Zaccari stop). Map E4

L’Aciugheta

Its fame and fortune stems from a soft, 7 cm long “paninello” (literally, “tiny sandwich”), stuffed with butter and two “aciughete” (skinless anchovies in oil). Other must-trys include its meatballs, croutons, stuffed chili peppers and freshly baked ‘pizzette’ topped with anchovies. €. Castello, 4357 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5224292. Vaporetto line 1, or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Osteria alla Rivetta

One of Venice best-known, most traditional “cicheteria” (but also a trattoria for lunch and dinner), it is a go-to address for wine tastings. Open daily 11am-10.30pm. €. Castello, 4625. T: 041 5287302. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN CUISINE

liver, ‘granseola’, polenta with shrimp, a mixed fish fry with artichokes and seafood risotto. The restaurant offers a gluten free menu especially designed for coeliacs. Closed on Thursday. €€€. www.algiardinetto.it. Castello, 4928 (Salizada Zorzi). T: 041 5285332. Vaporetto line 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4

Sissi. A favourite haunt of artists, its charm and Venetian flavour have remained unaltered since it first opened in 1894. Standouts include its raw fish dishes and stewed cod fish with polenta. €€€. www. anticacarbonera.it. San Marco (Calle Bembo). T: 041 5225479. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Al Mercà

A typical trattoria, in business for over a century, it has a friendly, convivial atmosphere. This is a go-to address for foodies and connoisseurs of fine dining. Its excellent menu, enhanced by the freshest, top quality ingredients is accompanied by an astute selection of wines. Closed on Sundays and Mondays. €€€. www.antichecarampane.com. San Polo, 1911. T: 041 5240165. Vaporetto line 1 (RialtoMercato stop). Map E3

Highly sought-after, typical Venetian cuisine. Boasting an informal atmosphere, it is the perfect spot to relax with a soothing cocktail after a long day of sightseeing. €€€. Lido - Via E. Dandolo, 17. T: 041 2431663. Vaporetto 1, 2, 5.1, 5.2 (Lido stop). Map E3

Alla Madonna

Established in 1954 and set in one of Venice’s most picturesque corners, the Rado family has run Alla Madonna since its inception. Its welcoming ambience, characterized by an ancient vineyard, provides the perfect backdrop for the typical regional cuisine served here. €€€. www. ristoranteallamadonna.com. San Polo, 594 (Calle della Madonna). T: 041 5223824. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E4

Antica Carbonera

Homemade pasta, fresh fish and unusual decor: its interiors resemble those of the Miramar yacht that belonged to Franz Joseph II and Princess

Antiche Carampane

Antico Martini

Located next to the La Fenice theatre, with its elegant dining rooms, welcoming atmosphere and attentive staff, the Antico Martini serves some of the best seafood in town. €€€. www.anticomartini. com. Campo Teatro Fenice 2007. T: 041 5224121. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).Map E5

Antico Pignolo

The hand of owner Eligio Paties, is apparent in its beautifully laid tables and impeccable service. The traditional Venetian menu is accompanied by a well-

A Beccafico Arte

It offers several dining spaces and a small inner courtyard. Its typical Venetian ambience, is low-key, contemporary and elegant, blending to perfection with its Sicilian-style cuisine. €€€. Closed on Tuesdays. www.abeccaficoarte.com. Cannaregio, 2289/C. T: 041 2759220. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E5

A la Vecia Cavana

Set within the picturesque environment of an old restructured cavàna (a typical sloped building used to house boats), this restaurant serves delicious traditional Venetian and Italian cuisine. €€€. www. marsillifamiglia.it. Cannaregio, 4624 (Rio Terà SS. Apostoli). T: 041 5287106. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map F3

Acqua Pazza

Set against the magical backdrop of Campo Sant’Angelo, it offers a great ‘al fresco’ dining experience under the stars. This small corner of Amalfi in Venice serves an array of tantalizing dishes. €€€. www.veniceacquapazza.com. San Marco, 3808. T: 041 2770688. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).Map E4

Al Colombo

A meeting point since 1986 for an international clientele, its menu maintains all the hallmark features of traditional Venetian cuisine. In summer, guests can dine outside under the romantic light of Venice’s street lamps. €€€. www.alcolombo.com. San Marco, 4619. T: 041 5222627. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3

Al Giardinetto da Severino

Set against the magnificent backdrop of the 15th century Palazzo Zorzi, the restaurant is listed as an ‘historical establishment of Venice’ and its dining room still features a vaulted ceiling and a frescoed firedplace. Its menu offers the best of traditional Venetian cuisine: baccalà, Venetian-style

Sushi Mirai, Japan in Venice Located in the beating heart of Cannaregio, Sushi Mirai is a reference point for lovers of Japanese cuisine, infused with Brazilian influences and contemporary touches. High-quality, locally sourced ingredients are enhanced by innovative pairings to create mouthwatering dishes that can be accompanied by a wide assortment of exotic cocktails or a prestigious selection of Japanese teas. Available in both an à la carte or tasting version, its menu also features a number of vegetarian options. In addition to traditional uramaki and temaki, the restaurant also offers a selection of soups and delicate tempuras. At Sushi Mirai, the refined dishes prepared by expert Sushiman Dhirendra are served in the venue’s sleek dining spaces featuring wood beamed ceilings, exquisite Japanese decorative elements and spectacular views over the Grand Canal. Sushi Mirai. Cannaregio, 146. T: 041 2206517. www.miraivenice.com

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DINING

Top hotel restaurants La Cupola

Acquerello c/o San Clemente Palace Kempinski Venice. Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. www.kempinski.com The gourmet cuisine of Acquerello restaurant enhances the flavours of Italian and Venetian tradition with creative and surprising combinations of Executive Chef Vincenzo Di Tuoro. PASSION TIP Its view is as breathtaking as its food: situated next to the XII-century church of San Clemente, the restaurant, boasting a large terrace, is located next to one of the island’s private landing stages. Open for dinner: 6.30 pm10.30 pm. Hotel’s complimentary boat from piazza San Marco. Off Map

Aromi c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. Giudecca, 810. T: 041 2723311. www.molinostuckyhilton.it Here you can taste authentic Mediterranean cuisine, offering a choice of pasta, meat and seafood dishes, created using only the freshest ingredients based on traditional recipes. Recognized by well-known international gastronomic association “Chaine des Rotisseurs”, Aromi is the ideal spot to celebrate a special occasion. Open on a seasonal basis, the Aromi restaurant offers guests a summer terrace with a fabulous view over Venice and the Giudecca Canal. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Palanca stop). Map C6

Aman Venice Restaurant c/o Hotel Aman Venice. Palazzo Papadopoli. San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo). T: 041 2707333. www.aman.com The exclusive restaurant offers a delightfully unique menu, thanks to several specialties created by starred Milanese chef Davide Oldani, who infuses his culinary offerings with all the vibrancy of his ‘pop cuisine’. PASSION TIP Standouts, for those who haven’t yet tasted them, include his timeless ‘cipolla caramellata’ (‘caramelized onions’) and ‘Zafferano e riso’ (Saffron and rice’). Vaporetto line 1 (San Silvestro stop). Map E4

Canova c/o Baglioni Hotel Luna. San Marco, 1243. T: 041 5289840. www.baglionihotels.com Winner of the Fogher d’Oro and Gambero Rosso awards, the Canova boasts an intimate, elegant atmosphere. Chef Daniele Zennaro offers menus and tastings featuring the best of traditional Venetian cuisine. All dishes are made using only the freshest, high-quality ingredients, rounded off by a wine list offering a wide selection of national and international labels. Vaporetto line 1 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F5

Antinoo’s c/o Centurion Palace Venezia. Dorsoduro, 173. T: 041 34281. www.sinahotels.com Fronting the Grand Canal, this is the ideal place for a romantic dinner, boasting a decidedly designer-style décor and a soft, evocative colour scheme. In addition to the à la carte menu you can also choose from a selection of typical gourmet Venetian dishes, the perfect way to soak up the flavours and atmospheres of the lagoon city. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5

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Club del Doge c/o The Gritti Palace. Campo Santa Maria del Giglio. T: 041 794611. www.clubdeldoge.com The restaurant welcomes guests for a romantic dinner or lunch overlooking the Grand Canal, where a welcoming ambience and authentic upscale cuisine make each culinary experience a truly special one. From April to October (weather permitting), guests can dine on its stunning panoramic terrace. Dining daytime (informal) 12pm-6pm. Dinner daily (formal) 7pm- 10pm. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop). Map E5

Tradition, innovation and creativity: Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite in several top hotels in Venice. By Stefania Vida

De Pisis c/o Hotel Bauer Palazzo. San Marco, 1413/d. T: 041 5207022. www.bauervenezia.com For a romantic canal side dinner, set against the backdrop of the historic Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute. Those in search of a more intimate experience can opt to dine in its elegant dining room, furnished with classic period pieces, reminiscent of the ancient pomp and splendour of the Serenissima. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 Do Leoni c/o Hotel Londra Palace. Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni). T: 041 5200533. www.londrapalace.com The Do Leoni restaurant, one of the temples of Venetian cuisine, pays homage to the symbols of Britain and of Venice. Chef Loris Indri combines the traditions of classic Venetian fare with more creative dishes, to titillate the palates of even the most discerning diners. The chef’s culinary art is further enhanced by its two atmospheric dining spaces: an indoor dining room whose decor includes artistic crystal and original paintings and its summer Veranda on the Riva degli Schiavoni. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4 Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300 www.jwvenice.com Aptly named ‘Dopolavoro’, which means after work. The renowned name of Giancarlo Perbellini is behind this new restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island - the Isola delle Rose, right out in the Venetian lagoon. After a day of business meetings or exploring Venice, enjoy delicious gourmet recipes with an individual flavour and skilful light touch - the true mark of a great chef. Off Map Glam c/o Palazzo Venart Santa Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron). T: 041 5233784. www.palazzovenart.com Headed by twice-Michelin starred chef Enrico Bartolini and located in a historic palazzo on the Grand Canal it offers an interpretation of contemporary Italian cuisine. Bartolini focuses on his experience and research-based use of locally-sourced Venetian ingredients and re-imagined with an innovative twist. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3


DINING

Grand Canal c/o Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. www.hotelmonaco.it A meeting place for gurus of the world of economy and finance, journalists and artists, actors and writers, it looks out directly over the Grand Canal. Both lively and intimate, its terrace combines the pleasures of the palate with an evocative view over the lagoon. Here you can enjoy the typical dishes of Venetian tradition, from the on the delicacies of the sea to the vegetables, expressed with maximum taste and harmony. Map F5 Il Giardino Segreto c/o Boscolo Venezia. Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto, 3500 (Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208110. www.venezia.boscolohotels.com Venice meeting point for lovers of fine cuisine. In an elegant and intimate atmosphere, you can enjoy international specialties and delicacies of the Italian cuisine, created by highly skilled chefs and accompanied by a wide selection of wines and champagnes. In the springtime and summer the blooming garden offers you a unique view for your lunch or for your very romantic dinner. Vaporetto line 4.2 or 5.2 (Orto stop). Map E1

L’Alcova c/o Ca’ Sagredo Hotel. Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99. T: 041 2413111. www.casagredohotel.com Boasting a magnificent panoramic terrace over the Grand Canal, L’Alcova is ‘the’ temple of traditional Venetian cuisine for real connoisseurs. PASSION TIP Its dining room faces directly over the Canal, in front of the historic Rialto Market, from which the restaurant sources the ingredients for its menus, accompanied by an astute selection of wines from various regions of Italy. Open: lunch 12pm2.30pm, dinner 7pm-10pm. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E3 La Caravella c/o Hotel Saturnia Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 2399. T: 041 5208901. www.restaurantlacaravella.com Opened in 1963, it completes the services offered by the Hotel Saturnia with a touch of culinary excellence thanks to its fabulous Venetian cuisine updated with a contemporary, gourmet twist. Its evocative, romantic ambience conjures up the colours and furnishings of an ancient Venetian vessel. In summer, guests can dine ‘al fresco’ in its picturesque, internal Venetian courtyard. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map E5

La Cupola c/o Hotel Carlton on the Grand Canal Santa Croce, 578. T: 041 2752200. www.carltongrandcanal.com A jewel in style both the venue and the atmosphere. The menus are inspired by the traditions of Venetian, Italian and international cuisine with genuine ingredients but with an innovative and original touch. An ideal place for your celebrations or for a simple romantic evening in Venice. Vaporetto line 1 (Riva de Biasio stop).

Map C3 La Cusina c/o The Westin Europa & Regina San Marco 2159. T: 041 2400001. www.lacusina.it For a regenerating lunch break between visiting one sight or another or for a romantic dinner, La Cusina is the ideal place to enjoy a combination of taste and relaxation. Choose a table overlooking the Grand Canal to enjoy a panoramic view of the city’s historic architecture, while savouring the restaurant’s seasonal dishes which enhance the rich local flavours of Venice and the islands of the lagoon. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5 Le Maschere c/o Starhotels Splendid Venice. San Marco Mercerie, 760. T: 041 5200755. www.starhotels.com Loved and patronized by Venetian locals, it is set against the backdrop of a luminous ‘Campiello’, a typical Venetian courtyard. Here you can sample authentic Venetian cuisine, featuring both meat and fish-based dishes. A truly gourmet experience, guaranteed by its partnership with Eataly, makes Le Maschere one of the most unique and original restaurants in Venice. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Terrazza Danieli

Do Leoni

Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. www.belmond.com Experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant takes its name, and try the specialties inspired by Italian tradition. Vaporetto line 4.1 (Zitelle stop). Map F6 Terrazza Danieli c/o Hotel Danieli Riva degli Schiavoni, 4196. T: 041 5226480. www.terrazzadanieli.com A trip to discover traditional flavours. Executive Chef Dario Parascandolo will treat you to an exclusive gourmet experience, with a menu featuring exquisite, locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. Don’t miss the breathtaking view over the lagoon. Vaporetto line 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

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DINING

Michelin-starred restaurants

Quadri

Are you in search of a real Venetian tasting experience? Where® brings you a round-up of Michelin-starred restaurants for true connoisseurs of taste! By Stefania Vida Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco T: 041 8521300 www.jwvenice.com Aptly named ‘Dopolavoro’, which means after work. The renowned name of Giancarlo Perbellini is behind this new restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island - the Isola delle Rose, right out in the Venetian lagoon. After a day of business meetings or exploring Venice, enjoy delicious gourmet recipes with an individual flavour and skilful light touch - the true mark of a great chef. Off Map Il Ridotto Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo, 4509 T: 041 5208280 www.ilridotto.com Located just steps from San Marco, Il Ridotto,

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'reduced' in Italian, refers to the size of this tiny, gracious restaurant. The innovative menu employing traditional elements is revised daily, with the offerings tending toward lighter, but wonderfully tasty versions of classic dishes. A particular characteristic? It only has 9 tables. Map F4 Met Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149 T: 041 5240034 www.hotelmetropole.com Located inside the Metropole hotel, the Met Restaurant is a pioneer of a new concept targeted at promoting the Italian region. Its menu features recipes based on traditional Italian gastronomy served in two versions: either classical or upgraded with a creative twist, served in unusual but never excessive combinations. Its carefully prepared dishes are full of flavour and presented in a bright, colourful way. Map G4

Il Ridotto


DINING

Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani Giudecca, 10 T: 041 240801 www.belmond.com A jewel in the crown of Belmond Hotel Cipriani, experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant draws its name, and try the specialities inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6

Quadri Piazza San Marco, 121 T: 041 5222105 www.alajmo.it A real institution of Venetian taste, starting from its decor. A triumph of stucco, Murano glass and precious fabrics housed in one of the most photographed ‘palazzi’ in the city. Its menu features intriguing, creative dishes that are beautifully presented... without forgetting its spectacular view over piazza San Marco. Map F4

Venissa Fondamenta S. Caterina, 3 (Mazzorbo) T: 041 5272281 www.venissa.it On the one hand its vegetable gardens and vineyards, and, on the other, its cuisine featuring an intoxicating meld of locally sourced ingredients. Its bucolic surroundings serve as the ideal backdrop to its authentic, typically Venetian cuisine lovingly prepared by its four chefs who only use fresh, seasonal ingredients. Off Map

Osteria da Fiore San Polo, 2202 T: 041 721308 www.dafiore.net An Osteria only by name because this is actually an elegant, starred restaurant. Its cuisine ranges from the most authentic traditional flavours interpreted in a modern-day key (meaning that offerings tend to be lighter) to more unusual dishes invented by the chef, intended to be as close to nature as possible thanks to a great selection of highly sought-after seasonal ingredients. Ask for a wine recommendation from its excellent wine list which also features several international labels. Map E3

Osteria da Fiore

Met

Dopolavoro

Oro

Venissa

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DINING

Top coffee and pastry shops Whether you’re in search of a cup of coffee, a snack or an aperitivo, Venice offers an incredible variety of bars and pastry shops, where you can stop after a long day’s sightseeing. Where® offers you a pick of the best places to take a relaxing break, from the most modern venues to more historic locations boasting a retro atmosphere for a real trip back in time By Stefania Vida www.lavena.it. Piazza San Marco, 133/134. T: 041 5224070. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).

Caffè Florian

Caffè Florian - One of Venice’s most famous cafés with its glittering neo-Baroque décor and attractive 19th century wall panels, Caffè Florian is located in the heart of St. Mark’s Square. The oldest café in Italy, Florian is steeped in history. Opened on 29 December 1720 by Floriano Francesconi, under the name of ‘Alla Venezia Trionfante’, it was simply re-christened Florian by its regulars, who included celebrities such as Casanova, Goldoni, Canaletto and Guardi. www.caffeflorian.com. Piazza San Marco, 57. T: 041 5205641. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Caffè Lavena - Since 1750, Caffè Lavena, situated in a corner at the foot of the Clock Tower in front of the Basilica, has been one of the most renowned coffee shops in Venice. Known by the Venetians of those days as the ‘Caffè dei Foresti’ (The Foreigners’ cafè), it was mainly frequented by an international clientele.

stocked cellar boasting more than 900 labels from all over the world. €€€. www.anticopignolo.com. San Marco, 451 (Calle degli Specchieri). T: 041 5228123. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Conca d’Oro

Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, the Conca d’Oro was established by Sicilian brothers Giuseppe and Giovanni Costa, the founders of the first pizzeria in Northern Italy. Since that time, this Venetian institution has been turning out some of the best pizza in town. €€€. www. concadorovenice.com. San Marco, 4338 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5229293. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Da Fiore

A renowned Venetian restaurant that offers topnotch cuisine in a sophisticated, elegant setting. Thirty-five years ago, Mara and Maurizio Martin 42 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2017

Dal Mas Located just a few minutes from the railway station, this pastry shop offers a triumph of traditional sweet treats for breakfast (in addition to croissants, try their ‘zaleti’, ‘pan dei Dogi’ and ‘sbreghettine’). Those with a sweet tooth will be delighted to know that Dal Mas is also a chocolate shop where you can find single servings of mousse, mini Sacher torte, ‘cannoli’ and brightlycoloured macarons. www.cioccolateriadalmas. com. Cannaregio, 149/a (Rio Terà Lista de Spagna), a few metres from the St. Lucia Station. T: 041 715101. Gran Caffè Quadri - Nestling in St. Mark’s Square, with its ornate stucco mouldings, 18th-century murals, huge mirrors and polished wooden furniture, Quadri is every inch the historical café. People, including habitués like Stendhal, Wagner, Proust and Woody Allen, have been drinking at this historic venue since 1638. www.alajmo.it. Piazza San Marco, 121. T: 041 5222105. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Harry’s Bar - Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, it is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. An ideal venue at any time of day, either for lunch or dinner, but also for a truly trademark aperitivo! www.harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco,

transformed an old osteria into one of the city’s most famous restaurants. Impeccable service and superlative Venetian dishes composed of carefully selected seasonal ingredients have made Da Fiore a must-visit destination. Closed on Mondays. €€€. www.dafiore.net. San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3

Gran Canal

Here you can taste the typical specialties of Venetian tradition, featuring the purest expression of taste and harmony. The restaurant’s main focus is on seafood and vegetables. Don’t miss a dinner on its evocative terrace: the restaurant faces directly onto the Grand Canal offering diners an excellent opportunity to combine the pleasures of the palate with a stunning view over Venice’s lagoon. Open: lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-11.30pm €€€. www. hotelmonaco.it. c/o Hotel Monaco&Gran Canal.

1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Vallaresso stop). Harry’s Dolci - Harry's Dolci, a bar and restaurant, offers a peaceful view of the Canal with outdoor tables facing the Giudecca Canal. The people at the famed Harry's Dolci have established their latest enclave on this rarely visited island, far from the madding crowds of Piazza San Marco. From the quayside windows of this chic place, you can watch seagoing vessels, from yachts to lagoon barges. cipriani.com. Fondamenta S. Biagio, 773 (Giudecca). T: 041 5224844. Vaporetto linea 4.1 (Palanca stop). Pasticceria Italo Didovich - Should you find yourself in the vicinity of Campo Santa Marina (just a little off the beaten tourist track), make a beeline for this excellent pastry shop, which has stood here for the past 40 years. In addition to ‘frolle’ and rice and almond pastries, it also offers several tantalizing delicacies Castello. Campo Santa Marina. T: 041 5230017. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Pasticceria Rosa Salva - This institution has three separate shops in Venice. The first is in San MarcoCalle Fiubera: its historic headquarters, permeated by the aromas of its nearby pastry kitchen. The next is in San Marco-Mercerie: aperitivi and quick snacks that can be enjoyed in between browsing the shops lining le Mercerie, the shopping street that connects the Rialto to St. Mark’s Square. The last is in Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo. www.rosasalva.it. San Marco (Calle Fiubera), T: 041 5210544. San Marco (Mercerie), T: 041 5227934. Castello (Campo San Giovanni e Paolo), T: 041 5227949. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Rizzardini - Since 1742, the traditional sweet treats sold at this pastry shop have tempted the palates of Venetian locals and visitors alike, thanks to the high quality of its products, its atmosphere and eye-catching window displays. Must-try’s include its biscuits and, at Carnival, its utterly delectable ‘fritole’ , small fried doughnuts. San Polo, 1415. T: 041 5223835. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato or San Silvestro stop).

San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Map F5

Harry’s Bar

Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails (originally invented here) and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, It is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. www.harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco, 1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto 1 (Rialto stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Il Nuovo Galeon

Located on via Garibaldi, near the Giardini della Biennale and just behind the Arsenal, this restaurant is mainly frequented by Venetians. A typical, familyrun restaurant with an outdoor terrace (summer), its attractive interior is characterized by typical nautical


DINING

Kosher in Venice If you are already familiar with Jewish dietary laws, or want to try a new ‘kosher’ gastronomic experience, here are some great addresses that will not disappoint! By Stefania Vida

décor, including the hull of a ‘bragozzo’, a typical fishing boat built by Crea, the famous Venetian rowing champion. €€€. www.ilnuovogaleon.com. Castello, 1308, T: 041 5204656. Vaporetto 5.1 or 5.2 (Giardini stop). Map H5

La Piscina

Take a seat at its welcoming indoor dining room, or on the magnificent panoramic terrace overlooking the Giudecca Canal. At La Piscina you can savour traditional Venetian and Mediterranean dishes paired with wines selected from amongst the best Italian labels. Vegetarian meals are also served. €€€. www.lacalcina.com. c/o Hotel La Calcina. Dorsoduro, 780 (Zattere). T: 041 5206466. Vaporetto line 2 or 5.1 (Zattere stop). Map E6

La Porta d’Acqua

Set just steps from the Rialto Bridge, the restaurant is housed in a 15th century building and decorated with original frescoes dating back to 1700. Its cuisine conjures up the aroma of authentic Neapolitan cuisine, thanks to ingredients sourced exclusively from Campani. €€€. www.laportadacqua.it. San Polo, 1022/b (Rio Terà San Silvestro). T: 041 2412124. Vaporetto 1 (San Silvestro stop). Map E4

Lineadombra

KOSHER RESTAURANT GHIMEL GARDEN The restaurant offers kosher specialties and typical fish-based dishes. Halav. Lemehadrin. The menu is accompanied by a great selection of strictly kosher wines. This restaurant is part of the new "L'Chaim!" Tour. venicebeyondtheghetto.com Open daily from 9.30am to 11pm. Serves Shabbat dinners on Friday evenings and at lunch on Saturdays strictly subject to reservation. ghimelgarden.com. Cannaregio, 2873/c (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 041 8226131.

Perched on the last bridge of the most beautiful promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect spot for a romantic dinner where you can enjoy all the typical flavours of the Venetian lagoon. €€€. www.ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, 19. T: 041 2411881. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Zattere stop) or 1 (Salute stop). Map E5

Locanda Cipriani

For those who want to be close to Venice, yet feel worlds away, the Locanda Cipriani is a superb, romantic hideaway. Featuring a simple yet evocative atmosphere, it is popular among knowledgeable gourmets as a fantastic

restaurant. A farmhouse from the exterior, it has been renovated with great charm, exuding an understated elegance with beautiful country antiques and fresh flowers. €€€. www. locandacipriani.com. Piazza Santa Fosca 29 (Torcello island). T: 041 730150. Vaporetto line 12 from Fondamente Nove direction Burano, then take the 9 line). Off Map

Taverna al Remer

Located near to the Rialto Bridge, this romantic ‘taverna’ is distinguished by its open-brick decor, which lends it an intimate, informal touch. Although the menu features simple, traditional dishes, it often surprises diners with unusual pairings. Closed on Wednesdays. €€€. www. alremer.it. Cannaregio, 5701. T. 041 5228789. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop).

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Trattoria Do Forni

The owner Eligio Paties has managed to make this restaurant a sought-after destination, distinguished by its wide assortment of Venetian fare, thanks to the quality of the dishes and a genuine sense of typically Venetian hospitality. The dining spaces will remind you of the carriages of the legendary “Orient Express” and pay tribute to the history of Venice. €€€. www.doforni.it. San Marco, 468 (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 5232148. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4

Wildner

Opened by the Fullin family in 1960, it is patronized by locals and tourists alike. Its tranquil, relaxed atmosphere is further enhanced by a spectacular view over the Basin of St. Mark’s. Its menu is mainly fish-based and serves classic Venetian specialties including ‘Baccalà Mantecato’ and ‘Sarde in Saor’. Closed on Tuesdays. €€€. c/o Pensione Wildner. Castello, 4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 or 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4

KOSHER HOUSE GIARDINO DEI MELOGRANI Located just a 10-minute walk from the Santa Lucia Railway Station, this is the only kosher residence in Venice. Nestling in the heart of Venice’s Ghetto, it is equipped with all the necessary accoutrements for the strict observance of Kasheruth and Halacha. www.pardesrimonim.net. Cannaregio, 2873. T: 041 8226131. CAFFETTERIA DEL MUSEO EBRAICO DI VENEZIA Indulge in flavoursome break at the cafè of Venice’s famous Jewish Museum. Situated in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo, the venue is set between two of Venice’s oldest synagogues. Halav. Cannaregio, 2902 (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 340 1046858.

ACQUERELLO RESTAURANT The haute cuisine of this signature restaurant plays on the creative combinations of Italian specialties and traditional Venetian dishes. www.kempinski.com/it/venice

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La Biennale di Venezia - Arse

SWEET TREATS… BUT NOT TOO MANY ONI Venetian biscuits come in all shapes and sizes and are made with a variety of different flours. The most common Arsenale Storico Navale di Venezia include dry baicoli, zaeti,Museo cookies made from cornflour, with raisins and lemon R PE GA peel, bussolai (prepared by the wives of IUSEP VIA G fishermen to sustain their husbands while at sea), pinsa, a simple biscuit made from stale bread, raisins, cocoa powder and RI VA DE I S candied fruit, and fugassa venessiana, ET TE M leavened dough sprinkled with grains of AR TI RI sugar: Venice’s traditional sweet treats have the irresistible aroma of simple, homemade biscuits prepared with only the most basic ingredients. A perfect end to a delicious meal, they can also be enjoyed as a midmorning snack. They can be accompanied by either a strong cup of coffee, or a rich, mouth watering zabaione.

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A mixture of history and legend, Venetian cuisine uses simple San Francesco della Vigna ingredients sourced from land and sea that are transformed San Lorenzo into delectable dishes telling the story of the Serenissima’s glorious past. Enjoy your meal! San Giovanni

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ADVERTORIAL

TRATTORIA DA REMIGIO Owned by Fabio Bianchi, Da Remigio is located in sestiere Castello, just behind St. Mark’s square. This historical venue is a favourite with Venetian foodies, but is also mentioned in international guides. It offers diners a classical menu of seasonal seafood dishes accompanied by a well-stocked wine list. The venue’s friendly, attentive service makes for an even more enjoyable dining experience.

Castello, 3416 (Salizada dei Greci). T: 041 52300089

LA TERRAZZA Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, Restaurant La Terrazza is set against an evocative backdrop with a view over the picturesque Bacino Orseolo gondola station (‘stazio’). Its culinary offer includes traditional Venetian and Italian cuisine. In the evening, La Terrazza offers its guests the unforgettable atmosphere of a traditional restaurant in Venice for a candle-lit dinner, in the romantic heart of the city. www.laterrazzavenezia.com c/o Hotel Bonvecchiati. San Marco 4488 (Calle Goldoni). T: 041 5285017

TRATTORIA DO FORNI Its owner Eligio Paties considers cooking “a culture, rather than a vocation”. He has managed to make his restaurant a sought-after destination, distinguished by its wide assortment of Venetian fare, thanks to the quality of the dishes and a genuine sense of typically Venetian hospitality. The dining spaces will remind you of the carriages of the legendary “Orient Express” and pay tribute to the history of Venice. www.doforni.it San Marco, 468 (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 5232148.

ANTICO PIGNOLO The “Antico Pignolo” Restaurant opened in 1930. Its site, however, actually dates back to 1200 when it was used as a blacksmith’s forge which looked after the Doge’s horses. Boasting an elegant ambience and impeccable service, this ‘iconic Venetian tavern’ is owned and run by Eligio Paties with particular attention to typical Venetian and international cuisine. Highlights include tantalizing meat and fish specialties and www.xxxxxx.org a well-stocked wine cellar. Viale xxxxx, 6 T:www.anticopignolo.com. 02 xxxxx San Marco, 451 More www.wheremilan.com (Calleinfo: dei Specchieri). T: 041 5228123. More info: www.where-venice.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 45


SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Negozio Olivetti, Venezia, photo Marco Introini, 2011 ∏ FAI - Fondo Ambiente Italiano

A hidden gem in piazza San Marco After admiring the buildings and bell tower, step into the old Olivetti Showroom, a jewel of contemporary architecture. By Elena Binda

S

t. Mark’s Square, in Venice, needs no introductions. The breathtaking view of its Basilica, Bell Tower, Clock Tower, ‘palazzi’ and porticoes is one of the most beautiful in the world. However, in the midst of its attractions, there lies a hidden attraction – a truly unmissable venue for connoisseurs of 20th century architecture. We are here referring to the Olivetti Showroom, designed in 1958 by Carlo Scarpa and commissioned by Adriano Olivetti, an Italian entrepreneur, an innovator, an academic and a man of culture, who wanted to establish a modern showroom to display the typewriters and calculators manufactured by the famous Ivrea-based company. Thanks to the philanthropy of Olivetti and the talent of Scarpa, a famous, multi-award winning 46 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2017

designer, the Venetian shop became a real work of art. Scarpa transformed the space provided to him from a long, dark alley into an open jewel box, featuring clean-cut lines and a harmonious blend of modern architectural design and Venetian tradition. The shop, owned by Assicurazioni Generali and recently renovated, has now been returned to its original function, namely a showroom for Olivetti products. In 2012, concession of the building was granted to FAI-The Italian National Trust, which re-opened it to the public. Thanks to a recent donation from Olivetti to FAI, visitors can now admire a permanent exhibition featuring a historic collection of typewriters and calculators, including the iconic ‘Lettera 22’, also exhibited at MoMA in New York.

DON'T MISS the “Ettore Sottsass ceramiche 1957-1969” exhibition celebrating the centenary of the birth of the revolutionary architect and designer. A part of the Venice Art Biennale’s official program, 60 works, including vases, plates and the designer’s famous menhir, ‘converse’ with the spaces of the showroom designed by Carlo Scarpa. Two titans of Italian design, both of whom worked closely with illuminated entrepreneur Adriano Olivetti in the ‘50s and ‘60s, are reunited. A homage to the two former art directors of Olivetti.

>>Negozio Olivetti Piazza San Marco 101. Procuratie Vecchie, Venezia. T. 041 5228387. www.negoziolivetti.it


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

ATTRACTIONS & MONUMENTS Basilica del Redentore

Based on a project by the famous architect Andrea Palladio, the Basilica was built in 1577 on the island of Giudecca. It contains works by Tintoretto, Veronese and other important Venetian artists. It was built to celebrate the deliverance from the Black Death, which killed one third of the population. To commemorate the end of the plague, a solemn festival is still held at the church on the third Sunday of July. www.chorusvenezia.org. Campo Redentore (Giudecca). T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 41 and 2 (Redentore stop). Map E6

Basilica di San Marco

This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. The famous winged lion, a symbol of the city and of the ancient ‘Venetian Republic’ is depicted on its pediment. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. You might have to queue for a time to get inside, but your wait will be well worthwhile. Although admission is free, you will have to pay to see several specific sights. In order not to miss your visit, be sure to inform yourself about the opening hours, as they are often subject to change. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-4pm; Sun (and Public Holidays) 2pm-4pm. www.basilicasanmarco.it. San Marco, 328. T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

and boat cruises visit www.canalgrande.it, or ask your concierge.

Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Chiesa della Madonna dell’Orto

Ghetto di Venezia

This is one of the largest churches in Venice, and, according to popular belief, is named after a statue of the Virgin Mary which supposedly had miraculous powers. It contains a significant number of artworks, mostly by Tintoretto and Bellini, but also by Titian and Palma the Younger. The complex also houses the smaller church of San Marziale, dating back to before the year 1000. This church can only be visited by booking. Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 12pm-5pm. www. madonnadellorto.org. Cannaregio, 3512. T: 041 719933. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1, 5.2, A (Orto stop). Map E2

Chiesa and Scuola Grande di San Rocco

A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. Opening hours subject to change www.scuolagrandesanrocco.org. San

Although documentation chronicles the presence of a Jewish community in Venice from before the year 1000, it was only during the 6th century, due to political unrest in Europe and a significant increase in non-Christian immigrants that, for the first time, the Venetian Senate, issued a decree stating that the Jewish population should move to a specific part of the city, where they could be better ‘controlled’. Thus Jews were forced to move to this, then, remote northwestern corner of Venice, to an abandoned site of a 14thcentury foundry (‘ghetto’ is old Venetian dialect for "foundry," a word that would soon be used throughout Europe and the world to depict an area where isolated minority groups lived. The Venetian Ghetto nevertheless became a thriving, vibrant district. In 1797, when Napoleon rolled into town, the ghetto was disbanded as an institution, and Jews were free to move elsewhere. Today it is still the center of Venice's ever-diminishing community of Jewish families. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1 (Ponte Guglie stop). Map D2

VIVA ARTE VIVA

Campanile di San Marco (Bell Tower)

This 98.6 metre bell tower is affectionately known to the Venetians as ‘el paron de casa’ (the master of the house) because it dominates the city, observing everything that lies below it. Resting lightly on the exquisite Loggetta del Sansovino, it has a particularly recognizable shape and a rich history. The original medieval bell tower was modified several times, and rebuilt entirely when it unexpectedly collapsed in 1902. It is worth going up to the tower, to enjoy a breathtaking view over the city. Although admission is not free, it is often included in joint tickets. Opening times are subject to change. T: 041 5225205. Vaporetto lines 1,2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Canal Grande (Grand Canal)

Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice and much more. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels, and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. For centuries, the Canal has witnessed lavish parties and workshop events, religious processions, capital executions, historical regattas and epidemics. Those visiting Venice should dedicate a few hours to a cruise on the Canal, not only for the pleasure of this experience, but because it offers several of the best panoramic views of Venetian palaces. It is is almost impossible to list all of them, but for more information you can visit the www. canalgrandevenezia.it website. For excursions

The 57th International Art Exhibition will be open to the public from Saturday 13 May to Sunday 26 November 2017 at the Giardini and Arsenale venues. Opening times: 10am-6pm; 10am-8pm at the Arsenale venue only on Fridays and Saturdays. Closed on Mondays. The 57th International Art Exhibition will also include 87 National Participations in the historic pavilions at the Giardini, the Arsenale, and in the city of Venice. Over 120 artists will participate with their artworks, installations and performances, 103 are participating for the first time. Selected fringe events will be presented by international organizations. www.labiennale.org FOR UPDATES VISIT www.where-venice.com | www.labiennale.org/en/art Official hashtag: #BiennaleArte2017 w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 47


SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Palazzo Ca’ Vendramin Calergi (Casinò di Venezia)

Overlooking the Grand Canal, this building houses the oldest casino in the world. An ageold destination, for aristocratic travelers from both East and West, Venice was the first city in the world to open a gaming house way back in 1683. Today its old-world ambience continues to play host to several of the world’s most classical games. The casino is open to everyone aged 18 and over and proper attire is required. www.casinovenezia.it. Cannaregio, 2040 (Calle Colombina). Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marcuola stop). Map E3

Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square)

Known throughout the world, this square is the heart of Venice and its most symbolic landmark. It consists of a central, trapezoid-shaped unit integrated with other areas. Measuring 170 metres in length, it faces directly onto the water and is surrounded by several magnificent stately buildings. Its incalculable scenic beauty makes it one of the most widely-photographed places in the world. The best thing to do here is to look around and exult, but don’t forget that the square has a number of specific landmark sites, whose interiors can also be visited: the Basilica of San Marco (see listing), the Bell Tower (see listing), Palazzo Ducale (see Museums listings), the Clock Tower (see listing) and some 18th century cafés, the Florian and the Quadri, to mention the bestknown... Vaporetto lines, 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs)

The Bridge of Sighs is a Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. Open daily 8.30am-

7pm. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 31024 (piazza San Marco). T:041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1,2, (San Marco stop). Map F4

Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge)

This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it (shutterbugs permitting), but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. Originally built during medieval times as a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. Unfortunately, it is not accessible to everyone; between upward and downward slopes, it includes as many as 120 steps. San Polo, 30125 (access from Ruga dei Oresi or from Salizada Pio X). Vaporetto linea 1,2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

San Giorgio Maggiore

Boasting a monastery and an adjoining museum (see Museum listings), the church of San Giorgio Maggiore sits on the little island of San Giorgio Maggiore across from St. Mark's square. One of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio, the church, and the entire complex, which holds a number of marvelous surprises including a maze, is worth visiting. This small island, that is a part of the panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark's square, is separated from the Giudecca by the lagoon island of La Grazia. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 5227827. Vaporetto line 2 (San Giorgio stop). Map G5

Santa Maria della Salute (Church of the Virgin Mary of Good Health)

Generally referred to as “La Salute,” this crown jewel of 17th-century baroque architecture proudly stands at a commercially and aesthetically important point, almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon. Designed by Longhena, whose work was influenced by Palladio, it was constructed to honor the Virgin Mary for delivering Venice from the plague of 1630. On 21 November each year, a popular religious

celebration, marking the official end of the Black Death, is held here. The church is also famous for its organ concerts. Open daily 9am-12noon/3pm5.30pm. www.basilicasalutevenezia.it. Fondamenta Salute, 30123. T: 041 2743911. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5

Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari

Known by the Venetians simply as ‘i Frari’, this landmark features 17 monumental altars and is the largest church in the city. This medieval church in Gothic-Venetian style, houses, in addition to two paintings by Titian, the tombs and funerary monuments of numerous famous people, including Titian, Monteverdi and Canova. chorusvenezia.org. Campo dei Frari. T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 1, 2, N (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Santi Giovanni e Paolo

One of the city’s most important examples of medieval architecture, Santi Giovanni e Paolo is considered the Pantheon of Venice because all the Venetian doges, starting from the 13th century, are buried here, together with numerous other notable personages. www.basilicasantigiovanniepaolo.it. Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo (Please note: this site might be marked in Venetian dialect as ‘san ZaniPolo’ on the city’s maps). T: 041 5235913. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Fondamente Nove stop, Ospedale Civile stop). Map F3

Scala Contarini del Bovolo

Palazzo Contarini is an exquisite, late Gothic building. However, what makes it such a popular attraction today, was the addition, by its architects, in 1499, of an amazing, external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. Open Tues-Sun: 10am-1.30pm/2pm6pm. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo.com. c/o Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. San Marco, 4299 (Campo Manin, Rio San Luca). T: 041 3096605. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map E4

Scuola Grande dei Carmini

Housed in a 16th century palazzo, it is the seat of an ancient brotherhood and all its original furnishing and a number of priceless oil paintings have been preserved intact. The drama builds when entering the Sala del Capitolo, whose ceiling features nine exceptional canvases painted by the brotherhood’s most famous member, Giambattista Tiepolo. Open daily 11am-5pm. www.scuolagrandecarmini.it. Dorsoduro, 2616 (Campo dei Carmini, Campo Santa Margherita). T: 041 5289420. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map C5

PHOTO © BALÁZS DEIM

Teatro La Fenice

"RIVER POOL" GIUDECCA The Giudecca canal and its surroundings are among the best-known renditions of the Venice cityscape. During the summer season, the “River Pool” site-specific installation by artist Vincze Ottó playfully enriches the panorama of the Lagoon with its colourful pool balls (www.vinczeotto.com).

48 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2017

Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. teatrolafenice.it. Ticket office T: 041 2424. San Marco, 1965 (Campo San Fantin). Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E4

The islands

Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of


MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Murano, Torcello and Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Murano is famous throughout the world for its hand-blown glass (artisanal workshops still display glassmakers at work). Torcello, birthplace of the lagoon, once a thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semirural island with only 17 permanent residents and two medieval churches that speak poignantly of past glories, and Burano, one of the most photographed sights in the world, thanks to colourful houses reflected in its canals. Burano is also famous for its artisanal lace work and a particular kind of biscuit, which also resembles lace. Find out more and buy tickets for your trip to these magical destinations. Visitors love these islands, and there may be a risk of not finding a seat on the boat. See Map page 62.

| SIGHTSEEING

Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana

MUSEUMS & EXHIBITION SITES Ca’ Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art

Hosts important 19th and 20th century collections of paintings and sculptures, including masterpieces by Klimt and Chagall as well as noteworthy oeuvres by the likes of Kandinsky, Klee, Matisse and Moore. Other highlights include a rich selection of works by Italian artists and an important selection of graphics. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www. capesaro.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 2076. Vaporetto line 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3

Ca’ Rezzonico-Museum of Eighteenth Century Venetian Art

The large staircase of this magnificent palazzo leads to several elegant rooms housing paintings, sculptures and 18th century furnishings (first floor): the ‘Portego dei dipinti’ featuring canvases by Canaletto, a room dedicated to Longhi and the frescoes painted by Giandomenico Tiepolo detached from the walls of Villa Zianigo (second floor); the rooms of the Farmacia Ai do San Marchi and the exquisite Pinacoteca Egidio Martini (third floor). Alternately, the Browning Mezzanine houses the works of the Mestrovich Collection, including works by artists like Tintoretto and Bonifacio de' Pitati. Closed on Tues, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www.carezzonico.visitmuve.it. Dorsoduro 3136 (Fondamenta Rezzonico). T: 041 2410100. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map D5

Casa Museo Andrich-Modern Art Gallery and Historic Garden

The house of the two artists, Clementina and Lucio Andrich, testifies to the artistic vibrancy of Venice between the 1950s and the 1980s. Silks, tapestries, glass, sculptures, paintings, engravings, mosaics and furniture are displayed on a rotational basis and can be admired during a guided tour. Set in an 11,000 square meter orchard-garden, inhabited by herons and flamingoes from March to September, Casa Andrich overlooks the beautiful lagoon landscape of Torcello. Open daily. Guided tours in Italian, English and French are conducted at 10am11am; 2.30pm-3.30pm; 4.30pm-5.30pm. Visits must be booked online (www.veneziaunica.it). Ticket pricing varies based on the type of visit chosen. www.museoandrich.com. Torcello island, 4/L. T: 347 2391861. Vaporetto line 12. Off Map

Fondazione Cini-San Giorgio Maggiore

Set against the magnificent backdrop of the Basin of St Mark, the Foundation was established in 1951 by Count Vittorio Cini to restore the Island of San

If you stand with your back to Palazzo Ducale you can admire the magnificent Palazzo della Libreria Sansovina, the seat of the Biblioteca Marciana (Marciana National Library), a symbol of Venetian culture. This library boasts a heritage collection of more than one million books preserved alongside the works of great masters including Titian and Tintoretto. Its headquarters, located in the former Mint of Venice and, more specifically, in Piazzetta San Marco, include the adjacent building of the Public Library of St. Mark, with its ancient Reading Room and Vestibule. Some interesting facts for book lovers: its impressive heritage collection includes approximately 1,000,000 books, 13,117 bound manuscripts and 4,639 unbound manuscripts, 2,887 incunabula (documents printed before 1501) and 24,060 ‘cinquecentine’ (16th-century editions). Giorgio Maggiore and to create an international centre of cultural activities. The Foundation is housed in the monumental complex of the former Benedictine Monastery of San Giorgio Maggiore, a place of inestimable architectural and artistic prestige, thanks to works by several of Italy’s greatest 16th and 17th century masters. Enlarged in the 16th century by Andrea Palladio, who also designed its refectory, the church of San Giorgio Maggiore and the Cloister of Cypresses, in addition to numerous other treasures, the complex hosts an impressive collection of paintings by Jacopo Tintoretto, as well as several 16th and 17th century works of arts. Guided tours in Italian, English and French on Saturdays and Sundays. For information and booking T: 041 2201215. Full price ticket €10.

A visit to the Monumental Rooms of the Library is an absolute ‘must’ (opening hours: 10am-7pm). Featuring an extraordinary Staircase of Honour, a Vestibule, which was later transformed into a Public Statuary, and an ornately decorated Library Room, it is of significant artistic and historical interest and well worth a visit. You can access the Monumental Rooms through the entrance of the Correr Museum (St. Mark’s Square, Napoleonic Wing) using the single ticket for all the Museums in St. Mark’s Square, valid for the Doge’s Palace and the combined itinerary of the Museo Correr, the Museo Archeologico Nazionale and the Monumental Rooms of the Marciana National Library (http://correr.visitmuve.it/ it/pianifica-la-tua-visita/biglietti/). Please Note: free guided tours of the Library are organized every second Sunday of the month, booking required. http://marciana.venezia.sbn.it (Stefania Vida) www.cini.it. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 2710280. Vaporetto line 2 (Isola di San Giorgio stop). Map G6

Gallerie dell'Accademia di Venezia

VENETIAN MUSEUM HUB Following a Napoleonic decree, the Gallerie dell'Accademia were instituted as an educational adjunct to the Academy of Fine Arts. They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo, and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 49


SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità, the Scuola Grande della Carità and the Canonici Lateranensi convent complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €9. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. www.gallerieaccademia. it. Dorsoduro 1050 (Campo della Carità). T: 041 5222247. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop). Map D5

Galleria Giorgio Franchetti alla Ca' d'Oro

The Ca' d'Oro, an ancient 15th century Patrician dwelling, hosts the art collections that were donated to the State by Baron Giorgio Franchetti. These include period furnishing, tapestries, paintings, sculptures and bronzes. Its current collection features a mixture of Renaissance works from the Lombard, Venetian, Reggio Emilia and Flemish schools, as well as masterpieces like Andrea Mantegna’s renowned St. Sebastian. An interesting collection of ceramic relics from the Venetian lagoon are housed at Ca' Duodo, the building lying adjacent to Ca’ d’Oro. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €6. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. www.cadoro.org. Cannaregio, 3932 (Strada Nuova). T: 041 5200345. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E3

Museo Correr

The museum is located in the old Royal Palace in St. Mark’s Square and includes the Napoleonic Wing and the Procuratie Nuove. Built to house Teodoro Correr’s collection, it features several exhibition spaces dedicated to the art and history of Venice. These include the neo-classical rooms housing sculptures by Antonio Canova, historic collections describing the changing cityscape of Venice and, finally, the pinacoteca, boasting important masterpieces of Venetian art from its origins to the 16th century. Open daily. www.correr. visitmuve.it. San Marco 52 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2405211. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop or, San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 - 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Museo d'Arte Orientale-Ca’ Pesaro This 17th century violin belonging to Martinus Kaiser is one of the priceless masterpieces preserved at the MUSEO QUERINI STAMPALIA. 50 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2017

The museum, located on the top floor of the Galleria Internazionale d’Arte Moderna, is housed in an ancient building on the Grand Canal designed by Baldassare Longhena for the Pesaro family. Here, you will find one of the most important collections in the world of Japanese art from the Edo period: more than 30,000 pieces including swords and daggers, Japanese armour, delicate lacquer ware palanquin and priceless porcelain. Other highlights include extensive sections dedicated to Chinese and Indonesian art. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket (integrated with the International Gallery of Modern Art) €10. www.arteorientale.org. Santa Croce, 2076.T: 041 5241173. Vaporetto line 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3

Museo del Merletto (Lace Museum)

Located in Burano, the museum is housed in a small building, formerly home to Venice’s famous Lace School. Boasting more than two-hundred rare, priceless pieces, the exhibition chronicles the evolution of the art of lace-making in Venice from the 16th to 20th centuries. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum and the Lace Museum €12. www.museomerletto.visitmuve.it. Piazza Galuppi 187, Burano. T: 041 730034. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2, 5.2 (Fondamenta Nove stop), and then line 12 (Burano stop). Off Map

Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum)

Housed in the aristocratic palazzo Giustinian, on the island of Murano, the collections exhibited at the museum are arranged in chronological order: in addition to the archaeological section featuring Roman remains from the 1st and 2nd centuries A.D., you can also find an extensive range of historical objet d’art made from Murano glass, including important pieces produced between the 15th and 20th centuries. Open daily. Full price ticket €10. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum + Lace Museum €12. www.museovetro.visitmuve.it. Fondamenta Giustinian, 8. Murano. T: 041 5274718. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2 (Museo Murano stop). Off Map

Museo di San Marco

The itinerary that you’ll follow inside the museum, will take you from the historic area above the atrium-narthex of the Basilica and the former Banqueting Hall of the Doges, through the three extensive themes that are a part of the heritage of St. Mark’s Basilica: Mosaics, Textiles, the Quadriga and the Antico. Particularly noteworthy, amongst its relics and artworks, are the famous gilded bronze horses of St. Marks and the Basilica’s ancient fragments of mosaics, preserved in special containers known as ‘cassine’. The tour of the museum takes visitors through various areas of the Basilica, we therefore suggest wearing attire that is respectful of the religious nature of the Basilica. Open daily 9.45am-4.45pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. www.museosanmarco.it. San Marco 328 (Procuratoria di San Marco). T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto linee 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 o 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Museo di Storia Naturale

Housed in the Palazzo del Fondaco dei Turchi on the Grand Canal, its original, contemporary layout is divided into three sections each of which is, in actual fact, a museum within a museum. Its collection includes more than two million pieces:

zoological and paleontological collections, ancient herbariums, plant and fish fossils, a collection of minerals, a wunderkammer (cabinet of curiosities) housing more than 2,000 examples of different animal parts and a Venetian fish tank. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €8. www.msn.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce, 1730 (Fondaco dei Turchi). T: 041 2750206. Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop). Map D3

Museo Ebraico di Venezia

JEWISH MUSEUM This a ‘dispersed museum’; a highly unusual urban architectural museum complex that includes the museum itself, the Ghetto, synagogues and an ancient cemetery. It contains a small but precious collection of artifacts related to the long history of the Jews in Venice. Thanks to guided tours (in Italian and English), you can visit three of the area’s five historic synagogues, located between the Ghetto Vecchio (Old Ghetto) and the Ghetto Nuovo (New Ghetto), and the Old Cemetery (16th-18th century) in San Nicolò del Lido. Finally, to commemorate the tragedy of the Second World War, there is a bronze relief Holocaust Memorial in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo. Jewish Museum: open 10am-7pm (from 1 June to 30 September); 10am-5.30pm (from 1 October to 31 May). Guided tours of the Museum + synagogues: hourly from 10.30am to 4.30pm (1 October-31 May) or until 5.30pm (1 June-30 September). Museum, synagogues and cemetery closed on Saturdays and on Jewish holidays, 25 December, 1 January, 1 May. Full price ticket €4; Jewish Museum + guided tour of the synagogues : full price ticket €10. www.museoebraico.it. Cannaregio 2902\b. T: 041 71535. Vaporetto lines 1-2 (San Marcuola-Ghetto stop), lines 41-42-51-52 (Ponte delle Guglie-Ghetto stop). Map D2

Museo Querini Stampalia

The Querini Stampalia house-museum is an opulent patrician dwelling located on the ‘piano nobile’ of a 16th century palazzo, and features several unusual architectural elements designed by Carlo Scarpa, Valeriano Pastor and Mario Botta. Works displayed include paintings by Giovanni Bellini, Jacopo Palma the Elder and the Younger, Bernardo Strozzi, Marco and Sebastiano Ricci, Giambattista Tiepolo, Pietro Longhi and Gabriel Bella. In addition to the museum, the complex also has a library and a space dedicated to contemporary art exhibitions. Closed on Mondays. Museum and Display Areas full ticket price €10; Scarpa Area full ticket price €8. www. querinistampalia.it. Castello, 5252 (Santa Maria Formosa). T: 041 2711411. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Rialto stop), lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1, 5.2, 7, 20 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Museo Storico Navale della Marina Militare The Historic Naval Museum, the most important of its kind in Italy, is owned by the Italian Navy and is devoted to Venice’s seafaring history. In addition to the main building, whose exhibition spaces span 42 rooms and five floors, the ‘Padiglione delle Navi’ (Ships Pavilion), located in the Arsenale’s old ‘Oars Workshop’, is also a part of the museum. Built in the mid-16th century as a workshop to build and store oars, since 1980 it has housed an impressive collection of historical vessels, and is an extension of the main museum’s headquarters. > Venice’s Historic Naval Museum (Castello 2148, Riva San Biasio. T: 041 2441399) is currently closed for renovation but the Padiglione delle


MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Navi, located just steps from the Naval Museum, is open for public viewing, > Padiglione delle Navi: from 1 June to 31 October: open daily, 8.45am-5pm (last admission 4.30pm); from 1 November to 31 May: Mon-Thurs 8.45am-1.30pm, Fri 8.45am-5pm (last admission 4.30pm), Sat-Sun and public holidays 10am-5pm. Full ticket price €5. www.marina.difesa.it. Castello 2162/c (Rio della Tana). T: 041 2711411. Vaporetto line 1, 4.1, 4.2 (Arsenale stop). Map H5

Palazzo Cini-La Galleria

Situated in the Venetian 'Museums Mile', between the Accademia, the Peggy Guggenheim collection and the Punta della Dogana, the 16th century Palazzo Cini in San Vio is the house-museum of Count Vittorio Cini, and houses some remarkable art collections: 14th-15th century paintings from Tuscany and Ferraro (Piero della Francesca, Filippo Lippi, Dosso Dossi and Cosmè Tura), period furniture, silverware, ivories and ceramics. Closed on Tuesdays. Full price ticket €10. www. palazzocini.it. Dorsoduro 864 (San Vio). T: 041 2710217. Vaporetto Lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop), lines 2, 4, 5, 6 (Zattere stop). Map E5

Palazzo Ducale

A landmark attraction, a masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, Venice’s Ducal Palace features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. The public entrance to the Doge’s Palace is through the ‘Porta del Frumento’ which leads to the spacious council rooms and then onwards to the exquisite rooms of the Doge’s Apartment. Other highlights on this route include the prisons and loggias overlooking the square and the lagoon. Open daily. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 1 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti), 5.1 or 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

works from the Pinault Collection, one of the world’s largest collections of contemporary art. Palazzo Grassi’s ‘Teatrino’, an adjunct to the exhibition spaces, offers an action packed calendar of conferences, concerts and screenings of an international scope. Open daily 10am7pm. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full price ticket €18 (Punta della Dogana+Palazzo Grassi). www. palazzograssi.it. T: 041 2001057. Palazzo Grassi San Marco 3231 (Campo San Samuele). Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop), 1 (Sant’Angelo stop). Map D4 • Museo Punta della Dogana Dorsoduro 2. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map F5

Peggy Guggenheim Collection Palazzo Venier dei Leoni The museum, boasting one of the most important collections of 20th century art in Europe, hosts the personal collection of American heiress Peggy Guggenheim. Her palatial canal side home showcases her collection of Cubist, Furturist, Surrealist and Abstract Expressionist art, with works by almost 200 artists, including Picasso, Pollock, Kandinsky, Miró, de Chirico and Dalí. It also

| SIGHTSEEING

hosts the works of other important collections and prestigious temporary exhibitions. Open Wed-Mon 10am-6pm; Closed on Tuesdays. Full price ticket €15. www.guggenheim-venice.it. Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, Dorsoduro 701 (Canal Grande). T: 041 2405.440/419. Vaporetto line 2 (Accademia stop), line 1 (Accademia stop or Salute stop). Map E5

Scuola Grande di San Rocco The headquarters of the San Rocco Brotherhood, this stunning building, to which hardly any modifications have been made, hosts more than 60 masterpieces by artists of the likes of Giorgione, Tiepolo and Titian, still presented in their original layout. Its establishment represented an important moment in the history of 16th century Venetian art, above all thanks to Tintoretto’s famous cycle of Old and New Testament scenes. Open daily, 9.30am-5.30pm. Closed on 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10; Scuola Grande + church €8. www.scuolagrandesanrocco.it. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco stop). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Palazzo Fortuny

Mariano Fortuny (Granada 1871 - Venice 1949) transformed Palazzo Pesaro degli Orfei into his own personal atelier for photography, set-design, textile creations and paintings. The museum’s collections boasts an extensive collection of pieces and materials commissioned for important projects: paintings, lighting systems, photography and ornate garments. The building is now used to host art exhibitions. The museum is open only during temporary exhibitions. Open 10am-6pm. Closed on Tuesdays. Please note that prices vary depending on the exhibition being shown. www. fortuny.visitmuve.it. San Marco 3958 (Campo San Benedeto). T: 041 5200995. Vaporetto line 1 (Sant’Angelo stop), 2 (San Samuele stop). Map E4

Palazzo Grassi Museo Punta della Dogana Overlooking the Grand Canal and recently restored by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, Venice’s 18th century Palazzo Grassi and the former harbour of Punta della Dogana are two contemporary art museums funded by the François Pinault Foundation. They host important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring

A fairytale city Two massive hands, 9 metres high, rise from the Grand Canal and support the Ca’ Sagredo Hotel. These are the weeks when Venice, more than any other time of the year, resembles something out of a fairytale. Titled ‘Support’, this monumental sculpture by renowned artist Lorenzo Quinn was built for the 2017 Venice Art Biennale. The artist’s aim is to focus on the ADVERTORIAL image of hands as a means of either support or destruction. His artwork conveys a desire to support this Venetian building, while simultaneously supporting Venice and the world; all of which are subjected to powerful climate changes and the destruction wrought by mankind. The artist based the hands on those of his son Anthony, and, by doing so, Lorenzo’s aim was to convey a message of hope. For him the hands represent an appeal to future generations to respond to the need to make significant changes in the world. This work was warmly received by Venetians and tourists alike and also, as noted by Lorenzo Quinn during its inauguration, by the Lagoon’s gondoliers, who are notoriously critical about any form of innovation in the city. The best way to admire this sculpture is from a boat on the Grand Canal or on the opposite bank, in the Rialto market area. (R.B.)

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ENTERTAINMENT

Following in the footsteps of Casanova A philanderer, explorer, writer, poet, alchemist, mathematician, philosopher and even a secret agent. What Venetian figure is better known throughout the world than Giacomo Casanova? By Stefania Vida

T

o see where it all began, start at Calle Malipiero, near Palazzo Grassi, where you will find a marble plaque commemorating Casanova’s birthplace. It was on the third floor of this building where Giacomo was born and lived until 1743. Well-known for frequenting Venice’s most fashionable locales, Casanova is remembered as being a regular customer at the famous Caffè Florian in St. Mark’s Square. Just as in years past, today the Florian is still one of Venice’s most fashionable and aristocratic grand cafés. Continuing on to Rialto, in the ‘Sotoportego’ dei Do Mori, you can still find the Do Mori tavern which, according to legend, was one of Casanova’s favourite watering holes. This charming, old-world venue still serves a great selection of ‘cicchetti’ and typical Venetian fare.

52 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2017

In days gone by, Venice’s famous Ridotto restaurant was located behind St. Mark’s Square in Calle Vallaresso. Formerly used by the Venetians to host weddings and ceremonies, it was also the place where Casanova wiled away the hours gambling in the company of Venetian noblemen. In addition to the Bridge of Sighs, it is impossible not to mention the Piombi, Venice’s much feared prisons which were housed under the roof of Palazzo Ducale. Today, you can visit the cell where Casanova was imprisoned and from which he made a daring and sensational escape that instantly made him famous. Finally, you can take a vaporetto to the Island of Murano where Casanova had a passionate affair with a powerful nun, simply referred to as "M.M." in historical documents.


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

CONCERT VENUES & THEATRES Teatro Goldoni

The Goldoni Theater is the oldest theater in Venice and the fourth most ancient in the city. Built by the Vendramin family in 1622, it was originally named after them. Its high point came in 1752, when it engaged Carlo Goldoni, the city’s most important dramatist at that time. It was renovated several times, first in 1818 and subsequently in 1933 and in 1979. In addition to Verona’s Teatro Nuovo and Padua’s Teatro Verdi, the Goldoni Theater is now managed by the Teatro Stabile di Veneto. www. teatrostabiledelveneto.it. San Marco, 4650/B. T: 041 2402011. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Teatro La Fenice

UNMISSABLE Located in the Sestiere San Marco, La Fenice Opera House is the one of the most legendary opera houses in Italy. Twice destroyed by fire (1836 and 1996) and twice restored to its former splendour, for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, symphonies and the International Festival of Contemporary Music. In the 19th century, it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Gioachino Rossini, Vincenzo Bellini, Gaetano Donizetti and Giuseppe Verdi, while in the 20th century it became a focal point for contemporary productions, featuring world premieres by Igor Stravinskij, Benjamin Britten, Sergej Prokofiev, Luigi Nono and Bruno Maderna and recently also operas by Mauricio Kagel, Adriano Guarnieri, Luca Mosca and Claudio Ambrosini. www.teatrolafenice.it. The theater is generally open daily for tours from 9.30am to 6pm. Full ticket: 10 €. The ticket price includes an audio guide, available in 5 languages (Italian, English, German, French and Spanish). San Marco, 4387 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 786672. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5

Currently celebrating its 94th edition, the rich events calendar of this year’s Opera Festival featured 46 performances with 5 operas staged on a rotational basis: ‘Carmen’ by Georges Bizet, ‘Aida’, ‘La Traviata’, ‘Il Trovatore’ by Giuseppe Verdi and ‘Turandot’ by Giacomo Puccini. (www.mostracallas.it). www.arena. it. Verona, piazza Bra 1. T: 045 8005151, 5873. Off Map

Teatro Olimpico Vicenza

WELLNESS Boscolo Venezia

Elegance, style and design blend to create a regenerating oasis, the ideal place for a oneof-a-kind pampering experience offering a rich program of wellness and body treatments. c/o Boscolo Venezia. Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto - Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208111. Vaporetto line 4.1 and 5.1 (Sant’Alvise stop). Map E2

Centro Benessere Casanova

GAMBLING & CASINOS Casinò di Venezia

San Clemente Palace Kempinski

VENETO HOT VENUES Arena di Verona

The best-preserved Roman amphitheater in the world and the best known in Italy after Rome’s Colosseum, the Arena, the city’s legendary open-air opera house, is located in Verona’s historic centre (115 km from Venice). Each summer, since 1913, it has hosted a famous opera festival featuring must-see performances and internationally renowned stars.

www.teatrolafenice.it

One of Vicenza’s artistic marvels (located 75 km from Venice), the Teatro Olimpico was designed by Renaissance architect Andrea Palladio in 1580. It is the first and oldest covered ‘Teatro Stabile’ in the world. Its interior simulates the outdoor setting of classical theatres, with a monumental rectangular proscenium, built to host its inaugural performance in 1585. Seven wooden perspective scenes depicting the streets of Thebes depart from here in a sunburst pattern. Included in UNESCO’s list of World Heritage Sites in 1994, it continues to host performances and concerts. www.teatrolimpicovicenza.it. Vicenza, piazza Matteotti, 11. T: 0444 222800. Off Map

An intimate, relaxing location set in the gardens where Casanova was known to court his lovers. The Center offers a wide range of treatments and massages with a particular emphasis on facials and body treatments. c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. www.belmond.com. Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. Vaporetto line 4.1 (Zitelle stop). Map F4

Inaugurated in 1638, this is the world's oldest gaming house and its charm has remained unaltered over the years. A perfect example of renaissance style stately home, the dwelling place of the doges and Richard Wagner’s last residence, Ca’ Vendramin Calergi is one of the most elegant buildings overlooking Venice’s major waterway, the Grand Canal. Today the rooms for elegant French games and American gaming tables are given over to the best professionals, whilst over 600 slot machines provide a more informal way of having fun. For venues, opening times, tickets: www.casinovenezia. it. Ca’ Vendramin Calergi - Cannaregio, 2040. T. 041 5297111. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marcuola stop). • Ca' Noghera - Italy’s first American-style casino, opened in 1999, it offers over 5,000 square meters of entertainment, including a new poker room for Texas hold’em Poker tournaments. Via Paliaga 4/8 Tessera (5 minutes from the Marco Polo Airport). Map E2

LA FENICE OPERA HOUSE

Here you can experience the Herb Massage Therapy service, a new approach to healing: an intimate and authentic journey based on the restorative powers of herb plants and the sensuous scents of Venice. The San Clemente Palace Kempinski offers a variety of massages - relaxing, Swedish and deep tissue - combining essential oils of lavender, rosemary and sage. Teas and coffee made with Venetian herbs and spices are complimentary. c/o San Clemente Palace Kempinski. www.kempinski.com. Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. Hotel’s complimentary boat from piazza San Marco. Off Map

JW Marriott Venice

Housed in a simple and elegant building, the Spa – the largest in Venice with its 1,750 m² – opens like a shell onto the water and has eight treatment cabins with a view of the lagoon and a marvellous suite. c/o JW Marriott Venice. www.jwvenice.com. Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300. Private boat from piazza San Marco c/o moletto JW Marriott every 30 minutes. Off Map

Eforea Spa

The Spa offers five treatment rooms but also a sauna, a Turkish bath, a Jacuzzi and a relaxation area. Make sure to visit its panoramic swimming pool (reserved for hotel guests only). c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. molinostuckyhilton.it. Giudecca, 810. T: 041 2723414. Vaporetto line 4.1 (Giudecca stop). Map G6

■ OPERA 2, 4, 6, 8 July LA SONNAMBULA Music by: : Vincenzo Bellini Fabrizio Maria Carminati, conductor Bepi Morassi, director Carlos Tieppo, costumes 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31 July and 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 August FABRIZIO PLESSI, L’ARTE DEL FUOCO IN MUSICA A lights, sounds and video travel – Experimental opera 11, 12, 13, 14, 16 July LA TRAVIATA Music by: Giuseppe Verdi Diego Matheuz and Francesco Ivan Ciampa, conductors Robert Carsen, director Patrick Kinmonth, sets and costumes Philippe Girardeau, coreography ■ OTHER EVENTS 1 July THE LIFE IN A DAY The Beatles Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band 1967>2017 50th° anniversary Fabio Codeluppi and Paola Pascolo, conductors Fabrizio Bentivoglio, speech Giò Alaimo, text 19 July AN EVENING WITH YANN TIERSEN SOLO IN CONCERT Yann Tiersen, musician and composer, presents EUSA his first solo piano album.

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OUT OF TOWN

Veneto, all the allure of the region Several charming destinations, a perfect way to spend a relaxing day while having fun. By Simona P.K. Daviddii

some of Verona’s most romantic, scenic views – the perfect place to fall in love. www.tourism.verona.it DISTANCE FROM VENICE: 115 km

VILLAS OF BRENTA The magnificent Brenta Riviera, crossed by the Brenta River and its canals, occupies most of the stretch of land that runs from Padua to Venice. Over the centuries, sumptuous villas,

VERONA Located just over a hundred kilometers from Venice, Verona captivates visitors with a stunning medieval historical center, encircling the Roman Arena – the ultimate stage for musical events in summer. Although the Arena attracts music lovers/aficionados from all over the world, the haunts of Romeo and Juliet are no less popular. Above all, Verona is known as the city of love. It is the famous setting of Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet, but it is also a vibrant town, boasting an intense cultural life. You are likely to stumble upon Juliet’s house with its beautiful Gothic portal and famous balcony, while strolling through the streets of the ancient city, amidst squares, porticoes, aristocratic palazzi, medieval towers, churches and courts. Romeo’s house, with its imposing crenellated walls, is located just a little further on. The Adige river is located just steps away, and a sunset stroll along its shores and over its historical bridges allows visitors to absorb 54 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2017

Villa Pisani, Stra

Arena di Verona

set in lush, beautifully tended gardens, were built on the banks of different waterways. There are approximately thirty villas, and the best way to admire them is from the water, embarking either in Padua or Venice for a pleasant day cruise, perhaps on board a ‘burchiello’, a reproduction of the ancient 18th century craft used by Venetian noblemen. Among the gems that embellish the shores, the monumental Villa Pisani in Stra, is a


must see. Palladio also left his mark on Brenta: near Mira, you will find the 16th century Villa Foscari also known as la Malcontenta. In Mira, make sure to visit the 16th century Villa Contarini dei Leoni and in its vicinity Villa Widmann, a spectacular 18th century complex. The last noteworthy aristocratic dwelling is Villa Sagredo in Vignovo. It was built on the remains of a medieval castle and is still inhabited, some say, by the ghost of Giovanni Sagredo, a disciple and friend of Galileo Galilei. www.rivieradelbrentaturismo.com

CENTURIES OF HISTORY On the previous page, the Arena di Verona and Villa Pisani in Stra, one of the most famous Veneto Villas. On the right, the Prato della Valle square in Padua. Below, a breathtaking view of Cortina d'Ampezzo, in the heart of the Dolomites. Padua

PADUA Padua lays claim to three thousand years of history, all of which are visible in its urban fabric, where spacious squares (the scenic Prato della Valle is the single largest square in Italy) alternate with paved alleyways, medieval houses and small aristocratic palaces. Not only the birthplace of Saint Anthony, to whom a large basilica is dedicated, but also the town housing Giotto’s magnificent frescoes in the Scrovegni Chapel. No trip to Padua is complete without taking a break at one of its historic cafés (the Pedrocchi is the most famous), either drinking a cup of coffee, or sipping a 'Spritz'. cocktail.

DISTANCE FROM VENICE 40 km CORTINA D'AMPEZZO Don’t miss the opportunity of a weekend getaway at one of Italy’s most exclusive resorts, a charming town exclusively positioned in the heart of the breathtaking Dolomites. A symbol of style, fashion and the Italian way of life, the spectacular scenery and full range of alpine sports and outdoor activities offered by this bustling mountain town attract nature lovers and sports enthusiasts during all seasons. First rate skiing, a lively après-ski scene, exclusive shopping and a great choice of events and entertainment, confirms Cortina’s position as a world-class winter destination. Winter offers an array of outdoor activities including excursions on snowcats and sleighs, nighttime descents from mountain refuges, romantic helitours, ice driving, snowkiting and horse-drawn sleigh rides… to enjoy the magic of the Dolomites from dawn to dusk. cortina.dolomiti.org - www.dolomitiskirock.com

DISTANCE FROM VENICE 420 km

Cortina d'Ampezzo Photo: Snowdog

Cortina d'Ampezzo

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Marostica ?

LUGANO MENDRISIO

Vicenza BERGAMO BRESCIA Verona

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NOVARA

MILANO Mantua

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Abano Montegrotto ?

Padua

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Palmanova

? ? Noventa di Piave

?Venice

TRIESTE

? Chioggia

ALESSANDRIA TORINO

Treviso

FERRARA PIACENZA GENOVA

BOLOGNA

RIMINI

MAR LIGURE VENTIMIGLIA

MAR ADRIATICO

PISA

LIVORNO

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ANCONA


OUT OF TOWN | EUGANEAN HILLS

Euganei Hills

A blend of art and nature The Regional Park of the Euganean Hills was established in 1989, and is located southwest of Padua. It offers visitors a unique blend of breathtaking landscapes, history and artistic attractions. While travelling across the plains of the Veneto region, visitors will be astonished by the unexpected sight of the Euganean Hills. Standing in total isolation southwest of Padua, their conical shapes testifies to their volcanic past, though they are never higher than 600 metres. The Regional Park of the Euganean Hills was established in 1989 to protect this area of the volcanic hills that were formed 35 million years ago.

Garden of Villa Barbarigo 56 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2017

Offering views of rare beauty, they abound in beech and chestnut woods, enhanced by vast expanses of lush meadows and vineyards, interrupted only by picturesque, historic towns, isolated castles and aristocratic dwellings of a bygone era. Veneto’s Euganean Hills are the perfect place to indulge in leisurely excursions on foot, horseback or mountain bikes. Criss-crossed by a vast network of trails and footpaths, the area’s most scenic itineraries include the trail that leads to the Schivanoia waterfall in Teolo, and the path to the Costa Lake. Fed by hot water originating from thermal springs, the lake is the main ‘supplier’ of the therapeutic mud used by the Euganee Spa complex and it is situated just a short distance from Arquà Petrarca, one of the most beautiful towns in Italy. Other attractions worth visiting in the Regional Park include two walled cities. These are Este, encircled by a curtain wall featuring twelve towers, separated by curtain walls with Guelph crenellations and two imposing keeps, whose original plan dates back to 1050, and Monselice, where an ancient medieval castle vies for attention with elegant patrician

dwellings, like Villa Nani-Moncenigo, and the 16th century Villa Emi Capodilista. The imposing remains of a Frederician tower dominate the latter. As far as villas are concerned, the area encompassing the Euganean Hills boasts several noble dwellings. These are renowned for their sophisticated architecture and are set within beautifully tended grounds. The most impressive of these is the 17th century Villa Barbarigo in Galzignano Terme. Its magnificent Baroque garden has 16 fountains, 70 statues, three water features and an ancient boxwood labyrinth. The Colli area is also noted for its picturesque Strada del Vino (Wine Road) which allows visitors to discover one of the area’s most unique Docg wines, ‘Fior d’Arancio’ (‘orange blossom’), a white wine that can be sampled in three different versions: dry, spumante and a sweet ‘passito’ (or dessert wine). From wine to water, part of the Euganean Hills can also be visited aboard a motorboat river cruise. The tour starts from Battaglia Terme and ends in Bassanello on the outskirts of Padua. En-route, visitors can admire the Catajo Castle (1570) and the monumental Villa Molin.


Magical water

PHOTOS © SHUTTERSTOCK

One of the largest and most important spa centres in Europe, the thermal baths in Abano and Montegrotto have been renowned for the therapeutic properties of their water and mud since ancient Roman times. Before gushing to the surface with an average temperature of 75° centigrade, the waters of the Terme Euganee take 25 years to travel 80 kilometres underground at a depth of 3,000 metres. Their journey takes them through calcareous rocks where they are enriched by precious mineral salts that make them the most effective salt-bromine-iodine therapeutic waters of all time. Their extraordinary therapeutic properties were recognized in Roman times (the acronym spa derives from the Latin word salus per aquam, health through water) and were widely enjoyed more than 2,000 years ago by the ancient populations, who settled and succeeded one another in the area. An interesting fact: the ancient Venetians venerated Aponus, the god of thermal waters and curative treatments, hence the name Abano. Although the first thermal facilities were only established in the 18th century, the area of Abano, Montegrotto, Galzignano, Battaglia and Teolo now boasts 130 facilities equipped with spas (and more than 220 swimming pools) offering balneotherapy, the immersion in thermal baths to alleviate muscular and joint pain, and improve skin conditions. Other treatments include hydrokinetic therapy, an ideal therapy for post-traumatic rehabilitation, as well as inhalation therapy and mud therapy. In addition to the curative waters of the Terme Euganee, the local vegetal-mineral mud, obtained from the mineralization of earth and clay and the formation of special microscopic algae, also contains important thermal properties. The Terme Euganee are not only effective for healing. The water and mud are also used for wellness and beauty treatments, including detoxification and relaxing programs, anticellulite and weight-loss massages and anti-

ageing masks to combat the loss of skin tone and restore elasticity. And that’s not all! Once you have completed your treatment regimen, you can take home the exclusive cosmetic of "Venetian Thermal Water", made with local thermal water of the Euganean Hills (www. aquaehotels.it). Between treatments, those wishing to explore the surrounding areas should head to the picturesque town of Battaglia Terme, a romantic location overlooking a series of canals. Other must-visit sites while in the area include the numerous Renaissance villas surrounding Galzignano Terme and the ancient archaeological excavations of Montegrotto Terme, including the three Roman baths decorated with mosaics and

marble flooring. Finally, don’t miss the Casa delle Farfalle (the House of Butterflies) in Montegrotto). This magical place is ‘inhabited’ by live species of butterflies from all over the world. The House of Butterflies is connected to the Bosco delle Fate (the Fairies Wood), an enchanted place, where each tree is associated with a fairytale or legend.

SPA HOTELS

ONLY 45 MINUTES FROM VENICE

Thirty spas and wellness hotels in the province of Padua are associated with the Aquaehotels consortium. aquaehotels.it Abano Terme ***** Abano Grand Hotel (L) | Due Torri | Grand Hotel Trieste & Victoria **** Alexander Palace | All’Alba | Astoria | Gran Torino | Internazionale | La Residence & Idrokinesis (S) | Metropole (S) | Palace Meggiorato | Park Hotel | Tritone (S) *** Dolomiti | Firenze | Paradiso | Principe | Smeraldo | Verdi (S) ** Belvedere Montegrotto Terme ***** Relilax Miramonti **** Bellavista | Continental | Delle Nazioni | Garden (S) | Mioni Royal San *** Commodore | Eliseo (S) | Marconi Teolo ** Mamma Margherita

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ESSENTIALS

Venice, the Floating City Some information and invaluable tips to experience the best that this magical city on water has to offer. By Simona P. K. Daviddi Italians (at least many of them), may already know that Venice… actually floats! Unlike Amsterdam or Saint Petersburg, it is not just furrowed by canals, bordered by roads and pavements. In Venice, canals are the only available communication route, bearing in mind that part of the city extends over a handful of beautiful islands that are scattered across the Lagoon. For this reason, the lagoon city can only be crossed on foot or by boat. Cars, motorbikes, bicycles and even roller skates are strictly forbidden. But this is not all. At times Venice may find itself... under water! The acqua alta phenomenon – the result of heavy rainfall and high tides - can cause the water level to rise by as much as a meter, forcing everyone to walk on raised plank walkways, or don rain boots (many shops, including tobacconists, sell disposable 58 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2017

ones) in order to cross the city’s flooded calli, campielli and salizade. Calli, campielli and salizade are Venetian words used to identify streets, squares and alleys while sestieri is the local word indicating the six districts the city is divided into: San Marco, Dorsoduro, Cannaregio, Santa Croce, San Polo and Castello. This division dates back to the 12th century and also includes areas such as La Giudecca, the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore (San Marco) and the Island of San Michele, home to the city’s cemetery (Castello). Street numbers in each sestiere start from 1 and often reach four figures, for example, one of the last numbers of the sestiere of Castello is 7,000. You need to learn them if you want to find your way through the spectacular, maze-like historic centre.

Venice also has its own network of public... and private transportation: its vaporetti, real waterbuses, are the most popular craft used by locals, which is why they are often very crowded during peak hours. These enginepowered water taxis are able to whiz across the lagoon in a heartbeat, but for those who prefer a unique, incredibly romantic experience, the famous, distinctive gondola is an absolute must. This elegant, black, one-oared rowing boat drifts gently across the water, while its gondolier sings an entire repertoire of traditional Venetian folk songs. It goes without saying that the waters of the canals are not suitable for swimming, and their banks are often slippery. Be careful not to be so focused on your selfie stick that you walk into a canal because you might be in for some © PAOLA DALLA VALENTINA rather unpleasant surprises!


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Emergency POLICE T: 113 AMBULANCE T: 118 FIRE BRIGADE T: 115 TRAFFIC POLICE T: 041 2747070 LOST AND FOUND ON VAPORETTI T: 041 2722179 24HOUR PHARMACY: check the display at

all pharmacies.

Airports INTERNATIONAL MARCO POLO DI TESSERA AIRPORT VCE  Venice’s Marco Polo Airport offers easy access to numerous destinations located in the Veneto region and in Northern Italy, the Canova di Treviso Airport (in Sant’Angelo) and main railway routes. The Marco Polo Airport is situated at a distance of 13 km from Venice (www.veniceairport.it). Trasportation from the Marco Polo Airport to the historic centre of Venice (and vice-versa): • Taxis (15 min. to Piazzale Roma, approximately €40); • water taxis (fast, private motorboats, approximately €80 ). This service is operative 24/24h (Consorzio Motoscafi Venezia www.motoscafivenezia.it. T: 041 5222303). • ATVO shuttle bus (20 min. to Piazzale Roma, €3, luggage included); • ACTV bus no. 5 (30 min. to Piazzale Roma with intermediate stops, €1, luggage excluded); • Alilaguna motorboats (a private service that uses ACTV’s network of docking stations with intermediate stops at strategic points throughout the city. Fares range from 8 to 27 euros). www. alilaguna.it. T: 041 2401701.

Trains

“SESTIERI”, THE DISTRICTS OF VENICE

FERROVIE DELLO STATO  Trenitalia Railway

Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com. Venice’s Railway Station (Santa Lucia) can be accessed from all main European and Italian cities. The Railway Station overlooks the lagoon and is located just steps from the stops of Venice’s main public transportation lines. E.g.: to reach St. Mark’s Square by vaporetto, take line 1 or 2. Estimated journey time from main Italian cities via high-speed trains, including Frecciarossa, Frecciabianca, Frecciargento, Italo, Thello, Eurocity:

Tourist Information

Santa Croce

Isola di San Michele

Cannaregio

San Polo Dorsoduro

Castello

San Marco

Giudecca

Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore

APT - Azienda di promozione Turistica Città

Metropolitana di Venezia (eng.turismovenezia. it/): Palazzetto Carmagnani, San Marco 2637. T: 041 5298711. VENEZIA UNICA  The official tourism website

of the City of Venice (www.veneziaunica.it)

Tourist Card VENEZIA UNICA CITY PASS is an all-in-one pass

that offers unlimited use of public transportation, admission to tourist attractions and cultural events in the city, plus a number of other useful services. You can purchase your card online and customize your Venezia Unica City Pass to suit your individual travel needs (www.veneziaunica.it/en) exchange vouchers. Open daily 9am-4pm. T: 392 6786628.

Cannaregio, like Castello, is the largest and most densely populated district of Venice. Its name probably derives from the expanse of reeds found in the swamps on which it was built. Castello takes its name from the castle of which traces still remain today. It extends around the Arsenale and includes the Gardens of the Biennale and the Riva degli Schiavoni. Dorsoduro is named after the compact sand dunes found in this area. It overlooks both the Grand Canal and the Giudecca Canal, along which the long promenade known as the Fondamenta delle Zattere stretches.

San Marco takes its name from the Basilica. This is the city’s main sestiere because it houses the palaces that once constituted the government of Venice until its fall. San Polo, which takes its name from the church of San Polo, is the geographic centre of Venice. It stretches from the highest part of the Rialto Bridge and is the place where the Rialto fish and vegetable market is held. Santa Croce takes its name from the ancient church of the same name which unfortunately was demolished under Napoleon’s rule. It includes the Stazione Marittima and the piazzale Roma terminal, a junction for train and road transport (buses, cars) and lagoon traffic (ferries, vaporetti or water buses).

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ESSENTIALS Special Tours CITYSIGHTSEEING VENICE HOP ONHOP OFF Exclusive view on the city of Venice. www.venezia.city-sightseeing.it • Tickets 24h: adults 20€, children (5-15 years) 10€. • Tickets 48h: adults 27€, children (5-15years) 13€. Tickets available: on board at any boat stop, at the CitySightseeing Venice Visitor Center, on the "Sightseeing Experience" free App, on www.venezia.city-sightseeing.it. • Duration: 150 minutes (every 60 minutes) • Services: wheelchair welcome, free Wi-Fi, Free "Sightseeing Experience" App (for Apple and Android smartphones) with the City Sightseeing Tour Map always with you, walking tour available in 5 different languages, CitySightseeing Venice Visitor Center. • Eight Stops: Ferrovia Compartimentale Santa Lucia – Stazione Marittima (Cruise Terminal) – San Marco, in front of Giardinetti Reali – Lido S.M. Elisabetta, pontile ACTV – Murano, Yalos Murano Pontile Fornace Ferro – Zattere Incurabili – Stazione Marittima (Cruise Terminal) – Ferrovia Compartimentale Santa Lucia. • New CitySightseeing Venice Visitor Center (inside the main train station Venezia Santa Lucia,next to "Freccia Club Trenitalia": any kind of information on the service and on the city, maps and exchange vouchers. Open daily (from April to November): 8.30am-5.30pm. T: 392 6786628.

GETTING AROUND VENICE Because it is a relatively small, compact city (a 45-minute walk from North to South) whose main points of interest are situated just a short distance from each other, visiting Venice on foot is the ideal solution.

experience a view of Venice that is anything but pedestrian. They are used almost exclusively by tourists (and Venetians on their wedding days). TIP Before embarking, we suggest that you check official rates (approximately €80 for 45 minutes and €100 after 7pm). Agree on a price, time limit and singing in advance to avoid unexpected surcharges. Associazione dei Gondolieri T. 041 5285075. www. gondolavenezia.it

Vaporetti - An efficient network of water bus routes covers the entire city and includes transportation to the islands.The service is active 24/24h but runs less frequently between 9.30pm and 6am. Landing stages are located at central points around the city (including Piazzale Roma, Rialto, Piazza San Marco…) .

Traghetti (Ferries) - ‘Traghetti’ are gondolas that cross the Grand Canal in 8 points. ‘Traghetti’ rides cost just €2 for non-residents (for holders of City Pass Venezia Unica or ACTV passes, rides cost 0.70) and operate almost non-stop. Four ferry services operate in Venice.

Tickets - Although paper tickets are available at main embarkation points and from authorized resellers displaying the ACTV logo, electronic tickets can also be pre-purchased online. ACTV: Piazzale Roma. T: 041 2424. www actv.it. There are 6 different types of tickets, ranging from hourly tickets (€7.50 for a 75’ regular route) to a weekly pass (€60) for unlimited travel on almost all lines. TIP The boat trip from one bank of the Grand Canal to the other costs 2 euro (only cash).You can pre-purchase reduced-price tickets from Venice Connected: www.veniceconnected.com. IMOB smart cards are available at all ACTV ticket offices. Although they allow you to save on official rates, they are only recommended for long-term visits. Gondolas - These traditional craft are among the best-known tourist attraction for those wishing to

Taxi - Water taxis with a cabin (private water taxis) are available for hire from 16 landing stages, including Lido Aeroporto Marco Polo, piazzale Roma, Ferrovia, Rialto and San Marco, or from your hotel. TIP Although private water taxis can be costly, they are the fastest and most practical means of getting around Venice. Ask your concierge. Car - The city can be accessed from the mainland by car, thanks to an elevated section (a 4km bridge, the longest in Italy, also known as the ‘Translagunare’), with limited parking options at garages in Piazzale Roma or on the Island of Tronchetto. Prices for 24-hour parking cost approximately €30 euro. TIP It’s advisable to travel to Mestre by car (24-hour parking costs approximately €15 euro) and then continue on to Venice by public transport.

PHOTO © SVIDA_WHEREITALIA

Gondolas, a tourist’s dream!

A hallmark symbol of Venice, who has never dreamt of riding on one of these marvels of craftsmanship, whose charms have withstood the test of time? The components (approximately 280) of these extraordinary craft still bear their almost fairytale-like names of the past: ‘sankòni’, ‘fiùboni’, ‘solarai’ and ‘maistre’... To name but a few.

60 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2017

Tradition has it that each gondolier has his own gondola, custommade according to his weight and height. Among the most ancient boatyards (or 'squeri'), the most remarkable is perhaps that of Domenico Tramontin and Sons. Established in 1884, it was the supplier to the House of Savoy, the Prefecture and the Commune of Venice (Dorsoduro, 1542. www.tramontingondole.it). An interesting feature that you are bound to notice on a gondolier’s uniform is the logo. Its most recent version was created by the Style Department of Duca d’Aosta, a shop established in 1902 in the Rialto neighbourhood by Emilio Ceccato. The logo features St. Mark as the Winged Lion, holding an open book, a symbol of peace and strength, framed by two 'ferri' – the traditional iron gondola prow ornaments (also known in Venetian as 'fero da próva' or 'dolfin'). Bringing one home as a keepsake is neither easy (nor cheap!), but you can avoid this by purchasing a souvenir created ad hoc. Where? At Emilio Ceccato’s clothing and accessory store, the official supplier and technical sponsor of the Associazione Gondolieri di Venezia (The Gondolier’s Association of Venice) in San Polo 16/17 (T: 041 5222700) and in San Marco, 257 (T: 041 8478885). www.emilioceccato.com


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THE LIDO OF VENICE

Although the Lido is Venice’s beach, it is also much more. An island, a town with its own history and a nature reserve, it is also a jet-setters’ paradise, with luxury hotels and exclusive villas. In September, it becomes the world capital of cinema.

The Lido (meaning beach in Italian) is a separate island from Venice. Measuring less than 200 metres in depth in certain areas, it is a 12km stretch of sand, strategically positioned between the Lagoon and the open sea, only connected to the city and dry land by ‘vaporetti’ or ferry boats. The clear difference between the Lido and Venice is that the Lido has real streets, which means you get around by car. In mid-November, Rolls Royce’s, Cadillac’s and Bentleys abound at the entrances of grand hotels. However, today, it is considered chicer to access the Lido by boat or explore it on foot or by bicycle.

WHAT TO SEE - The nature reserve and wild sand dunes of the Alberoni, recognized and protected by the WWF since 1997, are the perfect place for a quick swim. The area comprises 160 hectares of land, including two kilometers of golden sand dunes that extend from Murazzi to the Alberoni dam, and a beautiful pine forest. For a natural beach experience, the Lido also offers several free beaches, like the sandy dunes of San Nicolò, the rocky outcrops of the Murazzi, or the beach known to the Venetians as ‘Bluemoon”.

LIKE A SCENE FROM A MOVIE One of the most memorable scenes from ‘Death in Venice’ (1971), the cinematographic masterpiece directed by Luchino Visconti, shot on the beach of the Lido in Venice. Photo © Mario Tursi, Archivio Storico del Cinema.

Among other attractions, the area is home to an exclusive golf club set against a stunning backdrop of umbrella pines and poplars. Founder of the famous automotive house and an avid fan of Venice, Henry Ford commissioned the course in 1926, when he discovered to his disappointment that there was nowhere else where he could play golf, a sport widely practiced in America, but not in Italy at that time.

WHERE TO GO - Moving to the other end of the island, we find Malamocco, a small, ancient town that offers visitors a mini experience of Venice with its canals, ‘campielli’ and ancient buildings. Also dating back to olden times, in a more northerly direction, is the settlement of San Nicolò, featuring a Benedictine complex built in the 11th century. WHAT TO DO - Don’t miss a walk, or even better, a bike ride along the Murazzi, the remains of ancient fortresses which are now used as a race track. Bicycles are provided by several of the island’s hotels. If you happen to be there at the right time, you will be treated to a breathtaking sunset. What’s more, you’ll also get a glimpse of a wilder, more untamed side of Venice, amidst the boats and fishermen searching for clams. One of the island’s rituals, that you should not miss is having a ‘spritz’: the Venetian cocktail or aperitivo par excellence. You won’t have any trouble finding one at any bar on the Gran Viale, the Lido’s promenade. If you’re not pressed for time you can catch a boat from the Gran Viale to Pellestrina (where you can eat fabulously fresh fish, or a sandwich with fried sardines), or travel to Chioggia, a second, smaller Venice that abounds in fabulous small restaurants.

Joi n u s f o r a n u n f o r g e t t a ble e x pe r ie n c e in Ve n ic e

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FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

PP

CORTE

MICHIEL

FORNA CE

TER

Teatro la Fenice

SAL

ZAT

CA

LA

E DRIO

A DE

CA

EN TA

LLE

CALL

CIN

TER

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

AM

OTOR TA

PIS

CHIESA

RIO

FO ND

Giudecca Hilton FOND AMEN

CA

CAL

5San Fantin

FONDA MENTA

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione

DE

MARC

TIER

I

GO

LLE

CA

FE

RO

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

I

CA

L CA

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

Canal Grande

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

E

DE

ELL

LO N

ES

E

LE MIN

TE

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SS

CAL

PO N

NT

IA OP PISC

IN

C.SA

I

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NL

NAN

E LL CA

BO

DEL PIST OR

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AL

CALLE

ON RB L CA DE

ER E

TA

LLE

DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

ZATT

EN

E LL CA

TA

AM

LL

VE

M EN

ND

E ND CA LO LLE CA

LA

FO

SA

GA MA DEL

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

4

San Maurizio

CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

San Trovaso

TI

AS

CA LU

N SA

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

INI

DE

AN

LE CAL

LLE CA

A

C.

NIS

TE

RO AT L TE DE

E LL CA

NA

OG

LLE

RIO

OL

TEATRO

RO

. DE

CA

ND

CORTE DEL

CAMPO MANIN

IN RN TE N PA SA

MA

L

S

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

VE

ND

CA

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

3

CA

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

CAMPO PISANI

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia

Rialto

LA

S. Basilio

FO

SAN

BO TE GH E

ER

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

E LL CA

DE

FO DA

TE AT RO

LA

TI

DE L

C.

ISAN

I

OGN

LI

9d

Pont di Ria

CA LL E

DO

ENTA DE

CAT

DAM

RISI

CAMPO SAN GIACOM

San Giaco di Rialt

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

Rialto (Palazzo Cavalli)

AN

FON

FA

E

NO

San Beneto San Luca

Santo Stefano

Accademia

Chiesa di Ognissanti

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

LL

PR

Fontego Palazzo Rava Dolfin Manin

M

IO

LE

San Vidal

I

BES AG

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

100 m

CA

DORSODURO FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

DA SAN

. NA

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

San Silvestro

Palazzo Grimani

nde

VO

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

AN

SAL IZA

ND

TA

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

CAMPO SAN BENETO C AL LE

Palazzo Loredan

DEI PUT

STI

DORSODURO

Gra

AV

BA

CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

DE

VA L RA

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

S. Samuele

Ca' Rezzonico

CALLE

SE

CALLE SAN BASILIO

CRO SE RA

A DE ET

N

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

San Sebastiano

AI MAGAZ ZINI CALLE DIETRO

ZE OZ RR CA

GH

TE

SA

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

LE

DE LLE CA

RU

LE

TA

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

I

EN

ON

AM

RD

RCA LE SPOIENZE CAL PAZ DE LE

ND

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

LA

Sant’Aponal CAMPO ON RD SAN APONAL L PE DE

O

A SCOAZZER DE LA E IENZ

LE PAZ

FO

LL E

Ca' Rezzonico

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

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Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

RDO CALLE BERNA

San Barnaba

VE CC CO HIA RTE LEZZ E

ELE SAMU

NI

Angelo Raffaele

O

CA

FO

A S. PISCIN

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI

CA LL EC A’

HI SC DE I TO C. DE

i

min

Car

Santa Maria dei Carmini

CAMPIELLO DEL SOL

NE

N STRI L PE DE LLE CA

RAMO

A

del

MPA

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

ER

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

RA

Palazzo Fortuny

SESTIERE

OS

O

CA

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

DI SAN MARCO

E CR

Rio

Palazzo Giustinian Persico

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

LL

SE

LE

Sant'Angelo

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C DEL AM PI SA EL NSO LO NI

E LL CA

A

BO TA

S.Silvestro

al Can

San Tomà

O

L’A

DE

Palazzo Querini-Dubois CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

CA

DE

LE CAL

TT

LLE

LA

CARAMPANE

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

HE

CA

TE

RI

R

O

O

CAL

NIE

FOM

RI

AG

LE DEL

L’A GN EL LA

EN

CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA

CAMPO DE LA BECARIE

CA ’M UT I

C.

RE

DE

AM

VA

ON

SER

San Cassiano

CA LL E DE

URI

RO

NO

ST

EC

I

ND

Santa Sofia

DA

QU

CAMPO DEI FRARI

RA

L

LL

O ZZ

CAMPO SAN CASSAN

CAMPO SAN POLO

L TR

I IAT

R

E DE

BR

TE

ST

DE

CA

C.

I

CORTE DEL TEATRO

CAMPO SAN ROCCO

ETI

TI

I AN IM GR

I PR

D EI

CA LL E DE

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

nde Canal Gra

TA

LE N VI DE NC IN

A LE

FO

Ca na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Eva e Lutera

E LL CA

E DE

LE

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

LL

LLE

CAMPO DEI CARMINI C. DE

IA

EN

R

O

N

’ CAN AL RIO TERA

RD

AM

SC

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

ST UA

CIN

LO

RIO TERA’

UA

LO

LL

ENZ

RIE

LOR

N

C. SAN

N

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CA

EI

G

ZERE

SA

ND

O

SAN POLO

A

E

L' AR

E

LO ICO

FO

EL

L IN

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

C AL

C A’ C AL BO

.D

O

IN

LE

NTA

SS

LL

DE

RTA A MA SANT

MATTA DI CA’

CALLE CASE NUOVE

DE L’OGIO

NT

O

C

M

DEI

TT

RA

CAL

N PA

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

CA

ENTA

TA

CALLE

LD

AP

LE

ORE

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

CA

RO

AM

AMEN

N TO

D

IA

TR

CAL

SA

i

GUS

I

TA

TEG HER

EN

DEI FON

SA

N

TA

DE

6

TINT

ON

RA

E

ete

E TR

LE

DA

NUOVO

RA

AM

CAL LE

TE

O FORN DEL

LL

gh

San Pantalon

CAL

L

CALLE

Mu

CA

VE

Abazia della Misericordia D

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San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

CA

I

Basilica dei Frari

San Rocco

LL

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TO

CERER

CA

E DO

IN

le

A'

O

CA LL E DE L LA

LL

ES

de

C

IC

EN

E

IN

CA

E

Santa Fosca

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

HET

TA DEI

TE

D

ER

AM

LL

RIO

TA

D

San Felice

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

BO

I

CA

IA

EN

IS

ZI

AR

AM

N

LIZ

ND

NA

M

FO

I GA

FO

D

DE

ES

LA

N

C.

C IM

DE

TA

LA

O

C.

ALE

EN

S.Stae

NE

AG

AMEN

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RIN

NZE

ZZ

FO

DD

CA

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PA

O

MA

AM

DO

O

M

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D

LA

M

C AM

LL

N

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

L

DE

CA

LA

NA

NA MADO

LIZA

LLE

FOND

SA

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

TR

DO NA

C.

DEL

MA

DE

E

CALLE DE LA LACA

LE

RA

lentin

ENTA RIO

HE

LE

NTA

rto

A

LA

À D E

E C A

A

CAMPO SAN BOLDO

LE

FONDAM

OC

LL E

C AL

HE

CO

ll'O

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C AL

GO

Rio de i To

OC

CA

TER

DE LA

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BASE

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TA

de

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CALL

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AT

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na

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DE

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CAL

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LA TT

NZ

AM

on

E CH RI BB FA

LA

VE

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ad

LE

C.

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de SeF O N rvi . D A N I E L

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

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M

PA

LE

O

CALLE CONT ARINA

ND

cin

I

DE

ord

RAMO

zen

CA

LA

FO

DE

FOND

Ba

TT

TA

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

A

CA LLE

FOND

CALLE

Copyright Where Italia srl. © 2017. Original Map by Urban File - www.urbanfile.org

EN

'OLIO CALL E DELL

aga

OTT

M EZ

lla

DE

I

MIN

DE

FO

de

O EG RT PO TO SO

H

CAL

ne

TA

lM

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CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO

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RUGA BELA

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ZZIOL

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AM

ZO

EL

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AR

C.

San Giacomo dall'Orio

D

M

ZI

URAT

G

ND

eric

La Maddalena

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E

A

TA CA

TA RIZ

FO

TA

L’IS

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G

NA

EN

A’ DE

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NA

DEI AMAI

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Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

C

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CA

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RI

HIO

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LU

Rio

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AMEN

AMEN

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NE

CC LA

RA

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CALLE SAVIO

CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO

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DE

San Nicola da Tolentino

IE RI

FOND

FOND

D

TER

CALLE CAZZA

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N

Soranzo Cappello

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ov Rio Nu

CC

HI

FO

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

RAM

Mis

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola

RI

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SA

B

BA

TE RÀ

A

A OV

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TA

TA

BACC

NG

NU

D

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AMEN

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Palazzo Soranzo Capello

IO

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BA

TA

LI S

E

E

UO

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LU

LL

LL

C. LAV ADORI

SANT

AM

San Simeone Profeta

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CAM

FO

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CAMPIELLO LONGHI

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O

EN

4

A

LL

TERÀ

OV

DI ET RI O TE RO LA RÀ CH IES

3

DEL REMER

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DI

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TA

CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO

Giardino di Palazzo

LENT

PIAZZALE ROMA RIO

NU

CALLE

CA

FOND

SE

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People Mover Venezia

Giardino Papadopoli

CA

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A

TRONCHETTO

CO

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CROCE

RE

E

N.

ND

OC

OPOL TA PAPAD

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FO

FONDAMEN

NT

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Ponte della Costituzione

Sant'Andrea

SA

TT

TÀ ER

S A N TA

HE

LIB

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AG

A

LL

Ferrovia

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TR

DE P.le Roma

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della

RIO

San Marcuola

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LU

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AL C

FO

San Simeon Piccolo

Ferrovia

CALL

San Leonardo

nde l Gra Cana

I LZ

C.

E

People Mover Venezia

AG SP

Riva de Biaso

CA

O

DI

Ponte degli Scalzi

TA

I

CAMPO SAN LEONARDO

E ST

C IA

EN

LER

IA

AT I

IN M CA L DE E LL CA

TO

ET

CH

ON TR L DE A

AM

A

TA

E

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PO

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L IS

LL

OL

ND

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ER LE P

RD

DO S. LEONAR RIO TERÀ

N

I CALLE ORSETT

NO

VA

FO

SC

TE

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Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia

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NA

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Santa Maria di Nazareth

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San Geremia

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CA

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NA

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ET

IC

CH

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ON

SA

CAMPO SAN GEREMIA

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TR

LL

M

L

A

LA

C

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DE

CAL

Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo

D

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People Mover Venezia

Parcheggio Bus Turistici

TA

NA

EN

E

NO

AM

CAMPO FO ND DEI MORI AM EN TA DEI MO RI

Rio

SE

AM

LL

A

A

OL

ER

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AL

LE

ND

A E M

FO

LL

Palazzo Nani

CA

CAMPO SAFFA

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Museo Ebraico

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ann E G IO areg io

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di C

EN

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CA

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ale

San Giobbe

D

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Can

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FO

CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO

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FO

SE

C

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BB

AM

TA

CANNAREGIO

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EN

ND

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CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER

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sa

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Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo

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AL

ND

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Santa Maria delle Penitenti

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Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze

ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI

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AEROPORTO MARCO POLO

TORCELLO

Museo Di Torcello Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta Chiesa di Santa Fosca

100 m

ROSINA DELLA STRADA

ISOLA DEI LAGHI

FONDAMENTA

ISOLA CATERINA SANTA

SANTA

DI

DI CATERINA

MAZZORBETTO

FONDAMENTA

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FONDA

RC

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Chiesa di San Martino

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Chiesa di Santa Caterina

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10 VIA

CIMITERO DEL STRADA

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UE

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100 m

MESTRE

TORCELLO

BURANO

ISOLA CARBONERA

SAN FRANCESCO DEL DESERTO Convento di San Francesco del Deserto

Parco San Giuliano

ISOLA DI TESSERA

ISOLA SAN GIACOMO IN PALUDE

MURANO 10

Chiesa di San Michele in Isola

TREPORTI

1

ISOLA CAMPALTO STRADA

LO

ZA

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CALL

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Chiesa di San Pietro Martire

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CAVALLINO TREPORTI

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Chiesa dei Santi Maria e Donato

GIUSEPPE

CALLE

SA

US

GN

LP

COLORATA

BR

MA

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CAMPO SAN BERNARDO

BAROVIER CALLE

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Santa Maria degli Angeli

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AN

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VENINI

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EL

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D

M

LE

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Cimitero Nuovo

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COLORATA

VI

ISOLA SAN GIORGIO

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Apostoli Santi dei Rio

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Nuove Fondamenta delle

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Japan Pavilion

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United States Pavilion

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LA

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DEL

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LA SACRESTIA

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ALBANESI

CALLE DE LE RASSE

CALLE DEL

DE

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della

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CALLE

Canale

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LE

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VERDI

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MERCERIA

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C. DEI

GIOVANNI

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ZULIAN SAN

BALOTE

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LE DE

PISCINA

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CALLE DEI FUSERI

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LL

RIO CROCE

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AI ZATTERE FONDAMENTA

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CASE

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CALLE BECCARIE DE CALLE

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LA

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RIO TERÀ CAZZA

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STAE

FORNO DEL

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D’ORO

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CALLE

LARGA

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LE DE

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CAMPANIEL DEL

REGINA

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DE

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DEI CALLE

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DE

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DEL

RIO

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DORSODURO SESTIERE

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SAN

MEZZO CALLE

DI

L’ARCHIVIO

FON. DEI TOLENTINI

CAMPIELLO DEL LIBRER

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ROCCO SAN

ALBANESI DEI

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STRETA

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CALLE

CALLE

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LE DE

GIUSTINIAN

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DEL

RIO TERA’ OGNISANTI

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DEI CORTELLOTTI

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TERRÀ

VENIER

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LL

CA

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Parco delle Rimembranze

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CR

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RD

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GI

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RIO

IA

PONTE

SA

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San Giuseppe di Castello

Russia Pavilion

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CALLE

EN

E

CORTE

AM

ND

Giardini

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AL

FIANCO

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CAMPO SAN ISEPO

Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore

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PIETRO CORTELIESINA DA

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ALDI

EP

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ACCADEMIA

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IST

LL

Lungo

CE

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NA

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DE

MA

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SAN PIETRO DI CASTELLO

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POLACCA

CALLE

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EN

ROSA

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BB

IAN

RE

RI

CO

SA

SE

C.

GIUSEP

SARES

O E ANC

DOMENICO CALLE SAN

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CALL

TI

CALLE

COPPO

SCHIAVONA

AR

LARGA

MARAFONI

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SANT'ANNA

CALLE CORERA

CALLE

M

Basilica di San Pietro di Castello CALLE

CALLE TERCO

F O N D A M E N TA

C A L L E C ATA PA N

CALLE

TE

CALLE DELL’ANGELO

DELFINA

GRIMANI

CALLE

LA CERTOSA

Vergini

FOND. SAN GIOACCHIN

I

OSPIZIO

CALLE

de le

N TA R I O D E L L A TA NA

AN

CALLE

LE

San Francesco di Paola BALD

OLO C A L L E G I A N B AT T I S TA T I E P

CALLE

CALLE

NUOVA

DEI PRETI

I S ET

EL

FONDAMENTA

ENA

COLTRERA

CALLE

CALLE

GARI

EPPE

CALLE FRIZIER

DE

C. LOREDANA

VA

CH

Ponte

ARS

NALE

FONDAME

IUS VIA G

CALLE

AM

DELLA

MI

ERBE

E N TA

TA A R SE

LA TANA

CROSERA

ND

CALLE

E

LE

RAMO DE

CALLE

FO

CALLE ALBERO

LL

JUNGHANS

DE

AMEN

TANA

Punta della Dogana

FO

Redentore O

Santissimo Redentore

CALLE MORE

del

FOND

DE LA

CALLE

SAN GI ACOM

CA

CAMPO

CALLE

DAM

La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale

CAMPO

CASTELLO

M E N TA

VIDA

ISOLA DI

GIUDECCA FONDA

LA

DI

PICCOLO

DEI

DE

Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

PIETRO

PONTE

PALLADA

SCUOLA

FON

FONDAMENTA ARSENALOTTI

CALLE

CALLE DELA CREA

Zitelle

FONDAMENTA

FONDAMENTA

Giardino delle Vergini

Rio

San Martino

MOROSINA

FONDAMENTA

Spirito Santo

IA

CALLE

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA

CALLE

SAN

FEM

PESTRIN

GRITTI CALLE

RUGA VECCHIA

FORNACE

SALONI

'EU

DE CALLE

CROSERA

Arsenale di Venezia

Arsenale di Venezia

PIGNATER

C. VOLTO

TERRÀ

NT

SCUOLA

PISCINA

DE

CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO

CATECUMENI

RIO

SA

CALLE

L’ARCO

CALLE

ONI

DEL PIOVAN

RIO TERRÀ

FONDAMENTA

DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

TA

MARTIN SAN

DE

SALIZADA

FONDAMENTA

Moise

DEL TRAGHETTO

MARTIRI

San

CALLE

RIDOTTO

TREDICI

Rio

CALLE

VALLARESSO

CALLE

CALLE

SARTOR

FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

San Gregorio

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

Giudecca Palanca EN

NUOVE

CASTELLO

BASTION

SCUDI

C. DEL

ASCENSIONE

DEI PUTI

AM

CELESTIA

DONA

L’ANZOLO

DEL

LARGA

CALLE

SEBASTIAN

ND

CASTELLO CASE

DELLA

CALLE

CALLE DE

DEGLI

CALLE

SAN

CALLE DEL PESTRIN

FO

COSMO

SESTIERE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA

DE L’OGIO

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI

CALLE

DEI FORNI

FO

Sant'Eufemia

NUOVE

SECONDO SAGRADO

CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA

CORTE DEL MORION

CORTE DELLE GATE

ANTONIN

S C H I AV

Arsenale

BIAGIO

CALLE

CASE

RAMO

CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA

CORTE SACCA

SAN

R I VA D EGLI

S. Zaccaria (Pieta')

100 m

SAN

CONVERTITE

San Francesco della Vigna

FRANCESCO

SANTA GIUSTINA

CALLE DEI FURLANI

CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO

San Giovanni Battista in Bragora

VONI

S. Zaccaria (Danieli)

DEGLI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

SAN

SALIZADA

SALIZADA

CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Santa Maria della Pietà SCHIA

CALLE

VERONA

RIO

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA

San Giovanni di Malta

San Giorgio dei Greci

San Zaccaria

CALLE BOSELLO

LA

MINELLI

DEGLI

O

SCHIAVONI RIVA

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

SALUTE

LAVRANERI

ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

ZON

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

VIN CALLE DEL

Palazzo

CAVALLETTO

ORSEOLO

DE

CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

CALLE DEL BASTION

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE SAN LORENZO

CALLE LION

DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA

CAMPO SAN PROVOLO FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

DEL

C.

CALLE

S. SAMUELE

PESTRIN

CALLE

TRONCHETTO

DEL NOVA ISOLA

FONDAMENTA

ra Scomenze De

MARITTIMO

Canale

PORTO

FONDAMENTA

F. CONDULMER

DIREZIONE

MARITTIMO

CERERIA LA DE C.

PORTO

a

DIREZIONE

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

San Lorenzo

CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

CALLE

DEI PRETI

GATE

CALLE

DRASI

ZORZI SALIZADA

C. PIANTON

R I VA

DE LE

Marittim

DEL CAFETIER

CORTE NOVA

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

SOTO E CORTE NOVA

C.

Rio Del

FABBRI

FONDAMENTA

DEL

RC

CALLE

SPECHIERI

SPADARIA

DEI

PISCINA

VERONA

RIELO

SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE

LORENZO

FONDAMENTA

C. SAN

SCOAZZERA DE LA

LE PAZIENZE

A N M

SALIZADA

DEI

CALLE

LA

CALLE

DE

C. DE LE COLONNE

DELL’OROLOGIO

LARGA

CALLE

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

SEVERO

CALLE

MARZARIA

REDIVO

CALLE GOLDONI

CALLE

CALLE

LATERANO

SAN

FABBRI

MAGAZZINI

Santa Maria del Pianto

DE LE TOLE

FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

MEZO

GIUFFA

CASSELERIA

DEI

C.

MANDOLA

AVVOCATI

TERÀ

C. DE

RIO TERA’

L' ARZERE

GUARDIANI

DE

TODESCHI

CALLE

CANAL RIO TERA’

C. DEI

SA

Rio San Lorenzo

DE CALLE

RUGA

CALLE

PISCOPIA

CARBON

Salvador

CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

Palazzo Ducale

LO

FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO

LIO

DEL

CORTE NUOVA

San Giovanni Novo

MARCO

CANONICA DE LA

O

MO

FONDAMENTA

SAN

San

RIO

CALLE

AI

BARBARIA

SAN

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

REMEDIO DEL

SAN

CALLE

RC

P U N TA S A B B I O N I

NOVE

Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

CORTE TREVISAN

Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

BANDE

CORTE FRUTARIOLI

CALLE

LARGA

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

Basilica di San Marco

MA

SAN

CALLE DEL FIGHER

CALLE

BALONI

CAPPELLO BIANCA CALLE

CALLE ERIZZO

SALIZADA

CALLE

Rio

C.

Stazione

San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

FORNO

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

ORBI

DE LE

DEI

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CALLE

CALLE

BEMBO

GRIMANI

CAVALLI

zera

G. GALLINA

DEL

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

TASCA

CORTE DEL FORNO

C.DEI

REMER

CALLE

O MUSSATO CALLE

ZULIAN

CORTE TORRETTA

ZZA

O DEL

CINQUE

CALLE

CALLE

CORNER

DIETRO

DEI

CALLE

CALLE

LARGA

DE LE ERBE

COCCO

TOSCANA

LIO

San Giuliano

SAN

PIGNOLI

Museo Correr

LE VIGNOLE

FONDAMENTA

CORTE NOVA

CALLE GABRIELI

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

DE

MADONA

LUCATELLO

MARZARIA DEI

PIA

FONDAMENTA

ZATTERE

DE LA SACA

CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO

CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

NOVE

BERLENDIS

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CALLE

LICINI

MEZO

C.

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

Bacino Orseolo

Salute

Spirito Santo CALLE

DEI LAVRANERI

San Gerardo

BIAGIO

BOTERI

VARISCO

CASTELLI

PIOMBO

D. PALLE

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

CORTE

RUBBI

DE

CORTE GRAGOLINA

GALLO

CALLE

O

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CALLE

CALLE

SAN

C. LARGA

CORTE

CALLE

CAPITELLO

BALOTE

GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE

CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO

Ca' Giustinian

RI

Palazzo Genovese

PONTE

SACCA SAN

DEI

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

WIDMANN

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

MIRACOLI

GIAZZO

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

CAMPO

DE LA FAVA

CALICE

DEL

TAGIAPIERA

LE

FONDAMENTE

LARGA

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

C O RT E B ATA G I A

DEI

CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO CALLE

GALIAZZO

C. DEL

SALVADOR

MARZARIA

CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN

C.DE

STRAZZE TERÀ RIO

CARRO

PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE

San Moisè

CASTELLO

CALLE

DE LA

FORNO

RAMO

DEL

ROSSA

nde Canal Gra

FONDAMENTA

RAGUSEI

FONDAMENTA

CROSERA

CALLE

CALLE

TRAGHETTO

VAPORETTO

ORESI

CALLE

DOLERA

SAN

DELLE

SAN

DEL CALLE

CORTE BAROZZI

RIO

Teatro Malibran

CAMPO

C. DEL

SABION

C.

C.

FRUTARIOL

DEL

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

SESTIERE

DEI

PARANGON

CALLE

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

FREZZERIA

MOISE’

SA PISCINA

XXII MARZO

VENEZIA

CALLE

CAL RAMO

S.Canciano CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

RUGA

GALIZZI

STURION

DEL

LARGA

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

DEL FORNO

CALLE DEL NAVARO

FONDAMENTA

VENIER

CORTE DEL REMER

FRUTARIOL

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

CALLE

CALLE

SAN CANZIAN

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

CORTE DEL

MARZARIA

San Salvador

MAGAZEN

DEL

CALLE

DE

X

SALIZADA

MAZZINI CORTE

LUCA SAN CALLE

CALLE

PISCINA

LA CHIESA

DRIO

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

FONTEGO

SAN LIO

LARGA

SAN SALVADOR

TEATRO DEL CALLE

LOCANDE

CALLE

CORTE

MICHIEL

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

Santa Maria del Giglio

CHIESA

SALIZADA

SPIRITO SANTO

DEL

VOLTI

C. DEL

SALIZZADA PIO

CALLE

TEATRO

CALLE ASSASSINI

San Fantin

Maria del Giglio

Casa di Marco Polo

Fontego dei Tedeschi

Ponte di Rialto Rialto

CORTE DEL

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

PATERNIN

MANDOLA

TERÀ

RIO

Teatro la Fenice

DELLA

CAPPUZZI

ZATTERE ALLO

CALLE CALLE

BARBA

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

CAMPO MANIN SAN CALLE CALLE

CAFETIER

CAOTORTA

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

CALLE

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

ZEN

SARTORI

TERÀ

SALIZADA

San Giovanni Grisostomo

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

Rialto (Palazzo Cavalli)

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

TEATRO

MARCO

DEL

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

San MaurizioSanta

Canal Grande

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

FONDAMENTA

FOND.

RIO

PESCARIA

San Silvestro

Fontego Palazzo Rava Dolfin Manin

S.Silvestro

DEL

CALLE

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

Santo Stefano

C.SANT'AGNESE

NANI

AI GESUATI

CATERINA

PRIULI

NOVA

CAMPO DELLA

RAVANO

DEI

CALLE

CAZZIOLA

TRAGHETTO

DEL PISTOR

CALLE

Zattere

Giudecca Hilton

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

S.ANDREA

FONDAMENTA

Santa Sofia

STRADA

FABBRICHE

DEL

RUGHETA

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

Palazzo Grimani

San Beneto San Luca

SAN BOTEGHE

CAMPO PISANI

CATENE

SANTA

FOND.

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

STUA

BECARIE

DEL SOL

DEL

DEL

CALLE

ZATTERE

CALLE

LA

CAMPO DE LA

CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI

CAMPIELLO

CALLE

CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE

LE

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione FONDAMENTA

NOVE

CALLE

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

MUTI

CAMPO SAN APONAL

LE

CA’

BOTA

Sant’Aponal PERDON DEL

DE

LA

CARAMPANE

de r an

NARISI FOND.

DE

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

San Vidal CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

San Trovaso FONDAMENTA

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

LE

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

CROSERA

FALIER

BONLINI

DEL

San Felice

DE

Palazzo Fortuny

DI SAN MARCO

SAMUELE

Palazzo Loredan

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

LONGO

FONDAMENTE

FONDAMENTA

VENDRAMIN

CALLE

DE DE

CARAMPANE

TERÀ

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

al G

SESTIERE

S. SALIZADA

CARROZZE

CALLE

S. Samuele

CALLE

OGNISANTI

TRAPOLIN

CA'

CALLE CALLE

RIO

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

Can Sant'Angelo

VECCHIA

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LE

IA

San Cassiano CAMPO SAN CASSAN

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Palazzo Querini-Dubois

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DE

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R

DE

Santa Fosca

TIOZZI

DE

CORTE DEL TEATRO

CAMPO SAN POLO

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DE

O

C.

Rio Nuovo

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IC

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

DEI

C.

SCALETER

CALLE RAMO

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ER

NA

CALLE

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

DE

DEL

Palazzo Giustinian Persico S. Toma' SX

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia

BEATE GIULIANA

SACCA

FISOLA

LARGA

IS

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S.Stae

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

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San Tomà

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Accademia

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TA

TRON

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C.

EN

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San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

CALLE

DEL

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Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

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S. Basilio

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D

CALLE

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DE

SAN BOLDO

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CALLE

N

FONDAMENTA

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San Barnaba

Madonna

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L

CALLE

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CAMPO SAN STIN

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CAMPO SAN ROCCO

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ALE

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Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

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San Pantalon

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Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

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Santa Maria dei Carmini

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DE LA VIDA

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del

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della

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SIMEONE LUNA

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San Sebastiano SAN

CALLE CAZZA

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Del

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CALLE CONTARINA

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CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

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BARI

DELLA

SAN

TRAGHETTO CALLE

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

CALLE SAVIO

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CAMPO

DEI

Angelo Raffaele

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Rio

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Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola RIO

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DEI

CALLE

IA

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

DEL REMER

BIASIO

DI

BARI

C.

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Scomen

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FONDAMENTA

DE L’OGIO

RD

R

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San Simeone Profeta

Soranzo Cappello

DE CAMPO

San Nicola da Tolentino

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DEI FONTEGHERI

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I CALLE ORSETT

DEI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

ICO

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TERÀ

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SAN MICHELE

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della

CAMPO FONDAMENTA DEI MORI

ER

San Marcuola

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nde l Gra Cana Riva de Biaso

CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO

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Giardino di Palazzo

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Giardino Papadopoli

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FABBRICA FONDAMENTA

DE

TA

E DEL PISTO

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LA

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CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

EN

STRADA

DE

SPAGNA

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Ferrovia

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Sant'Andrea

SANT'ANDREA

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San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CALLE

AM

CALL

San Leonardo

San Geremia DI LISTA TERÀ RIO

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DEI Ponte degli Scalzi

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San Simeon Piccolo

Ferrovia

Ferrovia

LA FO.

TERÀ

MARTA

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

CALLE SAN BASILIO

ND

I

EONARDO

SAN LEONARDO

CALLE TRAGHETTO

CALLE

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Santa Maria di Nazareth

P.le Roma

Ponte della Costituzione

RIO

People Mover Venezia

SANTA FONDAMENTA

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Madonna dell'Orto

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People Mover Venezia

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LL

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San Girolamo

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Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo

Sant'Alvise

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ND

INE

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ZZ

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AM

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Palazzo Nani FONDAMENTA

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LLO

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Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo

DA PONTE

AM

B AT

DOGE

ND

TA

CALLE

FORNER

EN

CAMPIELLO TRAGHETTO

DEL

AM

SEBASTIANO

CALLE

FO

ND

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di Cannaregio

CAMPO SAFFA

Parcheggio Bus Turistici

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di Sant'Alvise

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COLETTI

Canale

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People Mover Venezia

della

CARLO

FO

FONDAMENTA

SAN

San Giobbe

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Rio

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Ponte dei Tre Archi

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VENIER FONDAMENTA

PENITENTI

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DEL SABION

LARGA

FONDAMENTA

CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO

CALLE

Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze

ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI

CALLE

Santa Maria delle Penitenti

CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER

FONDAMENTA

F O N D A M E N TA

TA’

CORTE

ER

SANT'AGNESE

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LA

Parco

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Chiesa di San Michele in Isola

D

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Festival Danza Orientale e Danza del Ventre Venezia

VI

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IA

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LU

NG

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AR

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PO

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Convento Delle Figlie Del Cuore Di Gesu'

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TR

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DI LEMNO

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Monastero Armeno Mechitarista

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Palazzo del cinema del Lido di Venezia VI

A

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Hotel Excelsior Venice

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San Giuseppe di Castello O EP IO N IS ON SA 'ANT NT SA DO PALU LLE CA DO PALU LLE CA

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AL E

Russia Pavilion

G IA

SAN T'EL

CH

TTO

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SS

GN

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Sant'Elena

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PA

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see pages 4-5

S. Servolo

INO

LA

LE

EL

ERA

AR

GEN

ENA

H

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Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo

T'EL ENTA SAN

LL

E

CA

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Top in Town

CAL

FON DAM

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E VIAL E PIAV

IA

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NO

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XXIV M AGG

CALLE MONT E PA S U B I O

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ON

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E

GR

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Japan Pavilion

BASILICA DI SAN MARCO  PONTE DEI SOSPIRI  CANAL GRANDE  SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO  TEATRO LA FENICE  CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO  PALAZZO DUCALE  THE GHETTO  PONTE DI RIALTO  THE ISLANDS 

LL E

CA

S MA

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CA

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Teatro Verde

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RT

SAN GIORGIO

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United States Pavilion

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PO

N

RD

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CC A

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Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore

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CALL

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DE

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N FOND. SAN GIOACCHI F O N D A M E N TA

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San Francesco di Paola

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DELFINA CALLE

GRIMANI CALLE

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CALL

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Basilica di San Pietro di Castello CA LL

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La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale

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100 m

ENA

TR

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DEI FORNI

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ARS

E IV NOV

DE I FO RN I

DE

E N TA

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ONI

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San Giovanni Battista in Bragora

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San Martino

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RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA

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de le

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CALLE DE LA PIETA’

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Giardino delle Vergini

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am Fond

La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

Can

N SA

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

Arsenale di Venezia

Rio d el Giardini

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enta

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ale

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S. Marco (Vallaresso)

Ca' Giustinian

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Palazzo Ducale

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TT

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CAL LE

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI

CALLE DEI FURLANI

CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

IN MAR DE L’OS

LL E

CAL LE

CORTE DELLE GATE

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IA AR AD SP IO OG OL LL’OR IA DE AR RZ MA

O DIV RE O

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w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 63

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[ O N LY AT P R E M I E R E H O T E L S ]

Where Venice Magazine

ONLY IN THE ROOMS OF THE BEST HOTELS and online

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5 STAR DELUXE (L) & 5 STAR Aman Canal Grande Venice Resort Hotel – San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo Baiamonte) • E4 Baglioni Hotel Luna – San Marco, 1243 • F5 Bauer Palazzo (L) – San Marco, 1459 • F5 Belmond Hotel Cipriani (L) – Giudecca, 10 • F6 Boscolo Venezia – Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto) • E2 Ca’ Sagredo (L) – Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99 • E3 Danieli – Castello, 4196 • F5 Excelsior Venice (L) – Lungomare Marconi, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Hilton Molino Stucky (L) – Giudecca, 810 • C6 JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa (L) – Isola delle Rose – (Laguna di San Marco) • Off Map Londra Palace – Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 Metropole – Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149 • G4 Palladio Hotel & SPA – Giudecca, 33 • F5 San Clemente Palace Kempinski (L) – Isola di San Clemente, 1 • Off Map SINA Centurion Palace – Dorsoduro, 173 • F5 The Gritti Palace – Campo Santa Maria del Giglio • E5 The Westin Europa & Regina –San Marco, 2159 • E5

Palazzo Stern – Dorsoduro, 2792/A • D5 Pesaro Palace – Cannaregio, 3935 (Calle Ca’ D’oro) • E3 Petit Palais Venice – Lungomare Marconi, 54 (Lido) • Off Map Principe – Cannaregio, 146 (Lista di Spagna) • D3 Quattro Fontane – Via Quattro Fontane, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Rialto – San Marco, 5149 (Riva del Ferro) • F4 Royal San Marco – Santa Croce, 578 • F4 Russo Palace Hotel – Riviera San Nicolò, 11/a (Lido) • Off Map Ruzzini Palace – Castello, 5866 (Campo di Santa Maria Formosa) • F4 San Marco Palace – Piazza San Marco, 875 • F4 Santa Chiara – Santa Croce, 548 • C3 Santa Marina – Castello, 6068 (Calle Seco Marina) • F4 Saturnia & International – San Marco, 2399 • E5 SINA Palazzo Sant’Angelo – San Marco, 3878/B – 3488 • E4 Starhotels Splendid Venice – San Marco, 760 (San Marco Mercerie) • F4 Torre Dell’ Orologio - San Marco Luxury Venice – San Marco, 288 • F4 Una Hotel Venezia – Cannaregio, 4173 (Ruga Do Pozzi) • F3 Villa Laguna – Via Sandro Gallo, 6 – (Lido) • Off Map Villa Mabapa – Riviera San Nicolò, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Villa Pannonia – Via Doge Michiel, 48 – (Lido) • Off Map

4 STAR & LUXURY RESIDENCES A La Commedia – San Marco, 4596 • E4 Ai Mori d’Oriente – Cannaregio, 3319 (Fondamenta Sensa) • E2 Best Western Biasutti Hotel – Via Dandolo, 29 – (Lido) • Off Map Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4488 (Calle Goldoni) • F4 Bucintoro – Castello, 2135/a • H5 Carlton On The Grand Canal – Santa Croce 578 • C3 Cavalletto & Doge Orselo – San Marco, 1107 (Sotoportego del Cavalletto) • F4 Colombina – Castello, 4416 (Calle del Remedio) • F4 Concordia – San Marco, 367 (Calle Larga San Marco) • F4 Continental – Cannaregio, 166 (Rio Terà Lista di Spagna) • D3 Duodo Palace – San Marco, 1887/1888 (Calle Minelli) • D3 Firenze – San Marco, 1490 • F5 Foscari Palace – Cannaregio, 4200/1/2 (Campo Santa Sofia) • E3 Grande Albergo Ausonia & Hungaria – Gran Viale S. M. Elisabetta, 28 (Lido) • Off Map Le Boulevard – Granviale S. Maria Elisabetta, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Liassidi Palace – Castello, 3405 (Ponte dei Greci) • G4 L’Orologio Venezia – San Polo, 1777 (Riva del l’Ogio) • E3 Locanda Vivaldi – Castello, 4150/52 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 Monaco & Grand Canal – San Marco, 1332 (Calle Vallaresso) • F5 NH Collection Palazzo Barocci –San Marco, 3878/A (Corte dell’Albero) • E4 Palace Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4680 (Calle dei Fabbri) • F4 Palazzetto Pisani Boutique Resort – San Marco, 2814 • E5 Palazzo Giovanelli – Santa Croce, 2070 (Campo San Stae) • E3

BOUTIQUE & CHARME HOTELS TOP Ai Cavalieri – Castello, 6108 (Calle Borgolocco) • F4 Ai Due Principi – Castello, 4972 (Fondamenta de l'Osmarin) • G5 Ai Reali – Castello, 5527 (Campo della Fava) • F4 Aqua Palace – Castello, 5492/a (Calle de la Malvasia) • F4 Ca Maria Adele – Dorsoduro, 111 • E5 Ca’ Nigra Lagoon Resort – Santa Croce, 927 • D3 Canal Grande – Santa Croce, 932 • D3 Dei Dragomanni – San Marco, 2711 • E5 Flora – San Marco, 2283/a • E4 La Calcina – Dorsoduro, 789 (Zattere) • D6 Moresco – Dorsoduro, 3499 (Fondamenta del Passamonte) • D4 Palazzetto Madonna – San Polo, 2902 • D4 Palazzina G – San Marco, 3247 • D4 Palazzo Abadessa – Cannaregio, 4011 (Calle Priuli) • E3 Palazzo Paruta – San Marco, 3824 • E4 Palazzo Priuli – Fondamenta de l'Osmarin, 4979 • G4 Palazzo Venart – S. Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron) • E3 CLASSIC Ad Place Venice – San Marco, 2557/A (Fondamenta della Fenice) • E5 Al Ponte Antico – Cannaregio, 5768 (Calle dell’Aseo) • F3 Antiche Figure – Santa Croce, 687 • C3 Antico Doge – Cannaregio, 5643 • F3 Arcadia – Cannaregio, 1333 (Rio Terà S. Leonardo) • D2

Bloom B&B – San Marco, 3470 • E4 Ca’ Gottardi – Cannaregio, 2283 • E3 Ca’ Pagan – San Marco, 3268 (Calle delle Carrozze) • D4 Casa Verardo – Castello, 4765 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo) • F4 Ca’ del Campo – San Marco, 511 (Campo della Guerra) • F4 Charming House – Dorsoduro, 724 (San Vio) • E5 Corte di Gabriela – San Marco, 3836 (Calle Avvocati) • E4 Le Isole – Castello, 4661 (Campo San Provolo) • G4 Locanda Ca’ del Brocchi – Dorsoduro, 470 (Rio Terà San Vio) • E5 Locanda de la Spada – San Marco, 2488/a • E5 Locanda Fiorita – San Marco, 3457/a (Campiello Novo) • E4 Novecento – San Marco, 2683 (Calle Dose) • E5 Oltre il Giardino – San Polo, 2542 • D4 Santa Chiara – Santa Croce, 548 • C3 Villa Ines – Via Lazzaro Mocenigo, 10 (Lido) • Off Map OUT OF TOWN 4 STAR & LUXURY RESIDENCES Alexander – Via Forte Marghera , 193/C – Mestre (Ve) Antony Hotel – Via Orlanda, 182 – Mestre (Ve) Antony Palace Hotel – Via E. Mattei, 26 – Marcon (Ve) Best Western Hotel Airvenice – Via G. Pascoli, 1 – Quarto d’Altino (Ve) Best Western Hotel Bologna – Via Piave, 214 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Plus Quid Hotel Venice Airport – Via Terraglio, 15 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Titian Inn Hotel Venice Airport – Via Orlanda, 240/244 – Tessera (Ve) Courtyard by Marriott Venice Airport – Via Triestina, 170 – Tessera (Ve) Hilton Garden Inn Venice Mestre San Giuliano – Via Orlanda, 1 – Mestre (Ve) NH Laguna Palace – Viale Ancona, 2 – Mestre (Ve) THERMAL HOTELS 5 STAR DELUXE (L) & 5 STAR Grand Hotel Trieste & Victoria – Via Pietro D’Abano, 1 – Abano Terme (Pd) Hotel Terme Miramonti – Piazza Roma, 19 – Montegrotto Terme (Pd) 4 STAR DELUXE (L) & 4 STAR Garden Terme (S) – Corso delle Terme, 7 – Montegrotto Terme (Pd) La Residence & Idrokinesis – Via Monte Ceva, 8 – Abano Terme (Pd) Hotel Terme Metropole – Via Valerio Flacco, 99 – Abano Terme (Pd) ALL CAN YOU IN TH DO E CIT

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