FEBRU A R Y 2 0 17 W HER E T R AV EL ER . C OM
R YOU
CITIDYE GU
Berlin
®
RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE
TAPAS
IN THE SPOTLIGHT Star actor and restaurateur Daniel Brühl on his passion for Spanish cuisine.
PLUS
BERLINALE A ROMANTIC STAY SWEET TREATS
SHOPPING | ENTERTAINMENT | CULTURE | DINING | MAPS 00 WB FEB COVER copy.indd 1
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BEST OF MORE THAN 300 SHOPS DELICIOUS FOOD HALL
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CONTENTS
02.17 See more of Berlin at wheretraveler.com
The Plan Let’s get started
The Guide The best of Berlin
14
SHOPPING
18
5 Editor’s Note
XX
6 Hot Dates
Diamonds are a girl's best friend! These stores will ensure you are well equipped.
Highlights of the month's can't-miss events, from a Chinese circus to Japanese drums and Carnival.
SIGHTSEEING
33
20
10
MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
36 XX
Sneak a peek into the private realm of art collecting. DINING
42
6
Dessert as the main event, XXjust the perfect finale not to a satisfying meal.
58 My Berlin
16
Ten days of American sounds presented by the Konzerthaus Berlin.
Also Inside 54 Ask The Concierge
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PAGE 56
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Actor Daniel Brühl at Bar Raval, his tapas bar. Photo courtesy of Bar Raval.
Adding a touch of love and romance to your wardrobe.
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ON THE COVER
The Berlinale film festival rolls out its red carpet to welcome international movie stars.
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20 Be My Valentine
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14 Red Carpet
BERLINALE A ROMANTIC STAY SWEET TREATS
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BUS TXLL
Goodbye Lenin! actor Daniel Brühl talks about his culinary adventures. BY RACHEL STERN
16 In The Mood For Love
nel gartentun Tierg
Star actor and restaurateur Daniel Brühl on his passion for Spanish cuisine.
10 Tapas With A Movie Star
Y.-R abinStr. r
IN THE SPOTLIGHT
From transport to emergency numbers, find useful information for your stay in Berlin. r r. r itätsstr. Univers
TAPAS
Where Now
E.T. E. T.A A.Hoffman
Li
RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE
ESSENTIALS
54
®
nstr. tr
Berlin
Exclusive bars carrying the elegance of a bygone era – and stellar cocktails.
Ebert er str. ert r r.
YOUR
Y CGIT UIDE
NIGHTLIFE
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Recommendations from Thomas Munko, chief concierge at Ritz-Carlton Berlin.
FEBRU A R Y 2 0 17 W HER E T R AV EL ER . C OM
ENTERTAINMENT
47
Des sauer r Str. r
Hans Richard This artist-turned-chef shares his tips on culture and food.
H.-v.GagernStr.
THE GREAT CHINESE NATIONAL CIRCUS: COURTESY OF THE GREAT CHINESE NATIONAL CIRCUS; BERLINALE: © ISTOCK; DANIEL BRÜHL: COURTESY OF LA MAISON, BAR RAVAL; LIU JO; PADLOCKS: © ISTOCK PHOTO.
XX
Explore the pretty alleys of Nikolaiviertel, officially the oldest part of Berlin.
B Mu
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WELCOME TO BERLIN
Romance Aplenty What makes love so unique is that it comes in all different forms and shapes. Even if we often lack the words to describe it, we all know how it feels – and many of us spend our lives chasing it. It can be a person, a situation, a belief, a song, a piece of art, or a place. And although Berlin is certainly not the most romantic of cities, many of its corners are imbued with a historic significance and symbolic beauty that makes them the perfect backdrop for romance. Take a Sunday morning at the flea market surrounded by the pretty buildings of Arkonaplatz, or a rich breakfast at Potemkin on Viktoria-Luise-Platz in Schöneberg. Or an in-depth exploration of the Hackesche Höfe courtyards, followed by an evening spent ice skating at the Horst-Dohm Eisstadion in Wilmersdorf. This city can offer many romance-inspiring activities, and February is the right time of year to express the love you feel to your partner, your best friend, or even just yourself. Need more ideas? Turn to p.16 for a roundup of Where favorites for a unique Valentine's Day in the German capital.
PORTRAIT BY THOMAS HEDRICH/FOTOSTUDIO-CHARLOTTENBURG; SKYLINE © TOTALPICS/ISTOCK/THINKSTOCK
Lots of kisses,
SOLVEIG STEINHARDT EDITOR, WHERE BERLIN
Welcome to the open air.* Theatre with English surtitles *»Richard III« by William Shakespeare Direction: Thomas Ostermeier On February 1 »Shadow (Eurydice Speaks)« by Elfriede Jelinek Direction: Katie Mitchell On February 7 and 8 »Hedda Gabler« by Henrik Ibsen Direction: Thomas Ostermeier On February 11 and 12 »Beware of Pity« by Stefan Zweig Direction: Simon McBurney On February 22 and 23 »Professor Bernhardi« by Arthur Schnitzler Direction: Thomas Ostermeier On February 25 »FEAR« A play by Falk Richter Direction: Falk Richter On February 27
Tickets: 030 890023 www.schaubuehne.de w w w.where w w w. w h e trer ave t r ave l el er.r.ccoom m 5
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HOT
DATES February in Berlin is packed with fabulous events, from high-tech festivals and circus performances to dance shows and Carnival events.
TANZOLYMP MONDAY
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Dance is a global language! Each year, approximately 1000 talented young dancers from around the world meet at Berlin’s Tanzolymp to share their love of dancing and take part in workshops, seminars, and competitions. Winners will be awarded scholarships to leading international ballet schools, but the public is in for a treat at the grand final gala at Theater des Westens. www.tanzolymp.com
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SCOTCH & SODA FROM SATURDAY
Described as "circus and jazz served straight up," Scotch & Soda is the latest show to hit the stage at Chamäleon Theater. Performed by Australian circus troupe Company 2, it's a mix of gravitydefying feats, marching-band-meetsgypsies music, and lots of intoxicating humor, all set in a rowdy whiskey joint. Be sure to arrive early to explore the Art-Nouveau-style courtyard complex of Hackesche Höfe. Showing until 20 August. www.chamaeleonberlin. com
CARNIVAL
19 SUNDAY
Berlin may not be Germany's biggest Carnival destination, but anyone wishing to celebrate before the beginning of the sober Lent period can still don a costume and take part in the colorful Faschingszug parade along Ku’damm (19 Feb) or attend the concluding party, this year with guest star Frank Zander.
2
TRANSMEDIALE FROM THURSDAY
The annual Transmediale festival is upon us, this year celebrating its 30th anniversary with an entire month of events encouraging us to rethink our everyday relationship to technology and our understanding of art and culture in a society shaped by the media. Taking place at Haus der Kulturen der Welt, the program includes an exhibition, video screenings, live performances, and various workshops. www.transmediale.de www.wheretraveler.com 7
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Where now | calendar
FEBRUARY
3
Berlin Graphic Days
SUNDAY
Snake girls, vase jugglers, and award-winning acrobats are what you can expect from the great Chinese National Circus. Staying true to their storyline about legendary cities, the circus is back at Tempodrom with their new show, Grand Hong Kong Hotel, set around an old Victorian hotel with guests from around the globe entering the mysterious and magical world of the Middle Kingdom. www.tempodrom.de
FROM FRIDAY
Hooray to a colorful winter! This three-day festival offers all walks of graphic artists the opportunity to present and sell their work. Coming together at the Urban Spree Gallery, the program is supported by live painting, DJs, and bands, as well as tasty street food. Don't miss the famous opening party on Friday 3 February. www.facebook.com/ berlingraphicdays
THE TAO DRUMMERS
14 FROM TUESDAY
TAO revives the centuries-old art of Wadaiko drumming. The 11-person Japanese ensemble donned in ninja-style costumes will take you on a journey through time from classical motifs of the Edo period to modernity with a hint of pop. Requiring extraordinary force, precision, and endurance, their furious rhythmic beats exploding into thunderstorms will reverberate through your entire body. www.tempodrom.de
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See Tegan and Sara, the twin sister indie duo from Canada, live in concert at Huxley's. Join the feast at the Street Food Thursday event at Kreuzberg's Markthalle Neun. Marvel at the amazing magic tricks in tonight's The Illusionists show at Admiralspalast. Danish electronic music star Trentemøller plays live at Astra Kulturhaus this evening. Watch the thrilling motorbike stunts of Night of the Jumps at Mercedes-Benz Arena. Take a trip to Dahlem's Botanical Garden to warm up in greenhouses of tropical plants. Blue, bald, and legendary: See the Blue Man Group show at the Bluemax Theater. Enjoy an afternoon Espresso Concert at the Konzerthaus – it's "caffeine for the ears!" Canadian punk rock band Sum 41 is back in town to play a show at Columbiahalle. Kick off the weekend at Hopfenreich, Kreuzberg's best craft beer bar. Weekends are for brunching. Try the lavish spread at Anna Blume (Kollwitzstr. 83). The impressive Chinese National Circus will wow the crowds at Tempodrom tonight. Shed a few tears at the Deutsche Oper performance of Puccini's Madama Butterfly. Happy Valentine's Day! Pamper yourself with a sauna and massage at Liquidrom. Catch a movie at CineStar Potsdamer Platz, one of few theaters to play movies in English. Not a monkey, but a celebrated electronic musician: see Bonobo live at Columbiahalle. Catch the infectious rhythm at the highenergy Night of the Dance show at Tempodom. Enjoy a Saturday night out on the town at Tausend, a chic dining and club hotspot. For antique fans, the Sunday flea market on Tiergarten's Straße des 17. Juni is a must. Warm up with coffee and Apfelstrudel at the historic, elegant Café Einstein Stammhaus. Take a musical lunch break at the Philharmonie's free "lunch concert" at 1pm. Enjoy one of the most beautiful ballets of all, Tschaikovsky's Swan Lake, at Deutsche Oper. Walk on the wild side at Berlin’s famed zoo, located at the edge of Tiergarten park. Portland rockers The Dandy Warhols are in town to play a concert at Lido tonight.
Try the creative drinks at Redwood, a chill Mitte spot for cocktail connoisseurs. See the Scotch & Soda show at Chamäleon Varieté, a fun circus-meets-jazz hybrid. Explore the work of iconic French photog. Robert Doisneau at Martin-Gropius-Bau. Picasso fans won't want to miss his masterful paintings at Museum Berggruen.
See listings for addresses and more info.
tanzolymp: photo courtesy cinevox junior company; Scotch and soda: photo by sean young; transmediale: photo by suzanne treister; carnival: Istock photo; the great chinese circus: courtesy of the great chinese national circus; graphic days: @istock photo; Tao drummers: courtesy of tao drummers.
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The Chinese National Circus
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OUR
HEART
BERLIN – S! R A E Y 0 4 FOR OVER
BEATS FOR
spielbank-berlin.de | find us on Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1 | 10785 Berlin | Tel. +49 30 255 99 0 Pathological gaming can jeopardise your livelihood! | spielerschutz-berlin.de | For Help call: 0800-137 27 00 (BZGA | Mon.–Thu. 10 am–10 pm, Fri.–Sun. 10 am–6 pm) or visit: check-dein-spiel.de | Must be aged 18 or over to participate in the games!
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TAPAS WITH A MOVIE
STAR
Rachel Stern sat down with renowned GermanSpanish actor Daniel Brühl to talk about how he's bringing his passion for Spanish cooking to Berlin.
M
any know Daniel Brühl, 38, as one of the most versatile actors of the modern day. He first rose to international fame with the Berlin-based Good Bye Lenin! (2003), and has since starred in more than 30 films in his native German and Spanish, as well as English and French. In 2009, he played Private First Class Fredrick Zoller in Tarantino's Inglourious Basterds, and this coming year he will star in World War II drama The Zookeeper's Wife and sci-fi horror film The God Particle. Besides acting, the Barcelona-born actor has another big passion: food. He owns the colorful Bar Raval in Kreuzberg (Lübbener Str. 1), a modern tapas bar and restaurant with a suave and stylish feel, and will soon be opening Bar Gràcia in Prenzlauer Berg, named after the Barcelona neighborhood where he lives when not in Berlin.
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COURTESY OF LA MAISON, PHOTOS BY BAR RAVAL.
WHERE NOW | DANIEL BRÜHL
Brühl also recently launched a new line of hand-selected Spanish gourmet products packed up in tapas boxes that can be purchased online (www.barraval.com). Feast on this: a vegetarian option containing olive tapenade with chocolate and onion chutney, or the so-called “exquisite" box filled with acorn-fed Iberian ham and octopus. Sitting in the dimly lit Bar Raval nearby a savory spread of tapas, Daniel Brühl talked about his culinary passions and how he balances his two hometowns of Berlin and Barcelona. In your new documentary Mein Barcelona we can see you at a market in search of the ingredients to make the perfect paella. Are you much of a chef yourself, or do you leave the cooking to others? The market in the film is around the corner
from where I live in Barcelona. Everybody knows me, and I love buying spices there. I’m starting to become a better chef, but I still see a difference between my skills and those of my Italian friends, or our chef. How will your second restaurant, Bar Gràcia, differ from Bar Raval? Well, the ambiance will be similar, but in terms of cuisine I don’t think it will be braver, although our challenge is to always surprise people, so we will bring in some new elements. New influences
will come from Sergio, the Spanish chef who will train our team. Prenzlauer Berg reminds us in a way of Gràcia, my neighborhood in Barcelona, and that's why we called it that. You’ve mentioned that you divide your time between Barcelona in the winter and Berlin in the summer and warmer months. How do these two cities balance each other out for you? I think they’re both great, and both have their pros and cons. Berlin is a wonderful, w w w. w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 11
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WHERE NOW | DANIEL BRÜHL
very international place with a unique atmosphere: you can really see history like nowhere else. It’s not as pretty as Paris, Barcelona, or London, but it really has its own, very peculiar charm. It also has a great nightlife, and great social and cultural offerings. Barcelona is much smaller. Everything happens within the neighborhood, which sometimes makes life a bit provincial. But of course it makes up for this by having the sea, the mountains, the Mediterranean light, the architecture, and the Spanish social life.
You act in several languages and take on a number of roles. Which language in which you feel the most yourself in? It would be both German and Spanish. I grew up with these two and I see the strengths of both, so it depends on the part. Language ultimately changes the way you act and move. It’s interesting to see the advantages that a certain language has in expressing certain concepts. Spanish is purely more emotional. It’s a wonderful language for cursing [laughs]. German is very precise, very logical, and I actually love that. And it’s more romantic than you would think. Muchas gracias. De nada.
Daniel Brühl at Bar Raval with co-founder Atilano Gonzalez.
COURTESY OF LA MAISON.
What would your perfect day in Berlin look like, if you were to film a Mein Berlin? Back in 2001, I landed in Prenzlauer Berg, where most of my friends lived. I know some people criticize this neighborhood, saying that it's not as exciting as it used to be and that there are now too many babies. I still love it. So my day would probably start here, followed by a walk to the Friedrichshain park. I also really enjoy meeting people for lunch in Mitte. A place I like is 3 Minutes sur Mer (Torstr. 167, www.3minutessurmer.de). It’s always nice to wander around Mitte because of its galleries and the shops. I also love stopping at the Jüdische Mädchenschule (Auguststr. 11-13, www.maedchenschule.org) for New York cheesecake or pastrami on rye bread. This year, I plan to get a boat license, as I discovered how beautiful Berlin is on the water – there is so much water! Another thing I love are these clubs that have both inside and outside spaces, like Jonny Knüppel (Schleusenufer 4A), and many others down Schlesische Straße. There’s always some good music to listen to and the vibe is great because the people are chilled.
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schlüterstraße 50 // 10629 berlin // www.talbotrunhof.com
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WHERE NOW | BERLINALE
Berlin's Red Carpet
Glamorous but down-to-earth, daring but easy-going. The Berlinale film festival brings the world's best movies to Berlin. Solveig Steinhardt discovered the festival's intriguing history. began to grow. But the Berlinale still maintained its function as a tool of propaganda: When the Wall went up in 1961, the organizers made sure to place at least 500 posters by the barrier, so East Berliners could see them. Perhaps because of this fascinating history, over the years the festival has developed a reputation for presenting controversial and daring productions, often politically charged or probing the boundaries of art and cinema. While the year's special guests and program details are not usually announced until a few days before the festival begins, the list of cinemas hosting Berlinale screenings is already available online, so audiences can already pick their favorite theater. Some of these are worth a visit just for their historic significance, such as the gigantic Friedrichstadt-Palast, home to the largest stage in the world and the official "film palace" for the duration of the festival; Zoo Palast, boasting an exceptional lighting and sound system; the GDRstyle Kino International; the stately Filmtheater am Friedrichshain; and the Colosseum, a 1920s architectural gem known for its program of independent films. Visit www.berlinale.de for more information.
Former Berlinale panel judges, George Clooney, Damian Lewis, and Meryl Streep.
ALL PHOTOS: Š ISTOCK.
F
ebruary is cinema month in the German capital, and as the Berlin International Film Festival gets ready to roll out its red carpet for the 67th time to welcome movie stars and stellar producers, crowds are starting to gather at the festival's ticket counters. The Berlinale, one of the world's "big three" film festivals, counts many glamorous guests each year but remains a very down-to-earth event, with screenings for everyone to enjoy in approximately 20 movie theaters around town. What's really fascinating, however, is the festival's unconventional history. Unlike other important film festivals around the world, the Berlinale was born out of political reasons. Back in 1951, when the divided city was covered in rubble, a Berlinstationed US army film officer named Oscar Martay decided to bring some glamour over to this side of the Atlantic with an international film festival that would also serve as a symbol of Western freedom in Cold War Berlin. The first edition of the Berlinale was a success, with Alfred Hitchcock's Rebecca as the opening film, but the city's isolated position meant that for the first few years the festival had to struggle to survive. In 1958, however, the event was granted the same status as other big European festivals, and its international fame
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#Berlinale
Berlinale 9—19 Feb 2017
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WHERE NOW | VALENTINE'S DAY
E MOOD H T IN
E V O L R O F
E
very day of the year is an opportunity for romance, but Valentine’s Day is the occasion that reminds us to pay extra-special attention to the one(s) we love. And although Paris has long declared itself Europe’s capital of romance, Berlin would like to remind everyone that it has plenty to offer too. From secluded spa indulgences to tango lessons for two, skyhigh getaways to memorable sunsets, read on for the Where team’s tried-and-tested options for romance, Berlin style.
private treatment room, followed by even more relaxation in the sauna or aromatherapy steam room. The Vabali Spa (Seydlitzstr. 6, www.vabali.de), styled after the exotic resorts of faraway Bali, also offers numerous cozy corners for indulging in romance. The Romance package includes a rose-sprinkled soak for two in the jumbo tub of a luxurious private suite, followed by champagne, massages, a fruit plate, and as much time as you want to steam and sauna your way through the beautiful premises.
IMAGES © ISTOCK
PURE INDULGENCE If your idea of romance is wining and dining, hurry and book a table at Grill Royal (Friedrichstr. 105b, www.grillroyal. com), which has long been one of Mitte’s favorite tony restaurants. Besides riverside views and an art-filled
interior that exemplifies understated chic, the restaurant is rife with celebrity sightings during this month’s Berlinale film festival (9–19 February). The highlight of the menu is premium steak off the namesake grill, but Valentine’s Day also calls for oysters – with champagne, of course. Go all out with the seafood platter, piled with oysters, lobster, king crab, caviar, and more. Embrace luxury even further at the Hotel de Rome Spa (Behrenstr. 37, www. roccofortehotels.com), tucked away in the former jewel vault of a 19th-century bank building. Book the Honeymooners’ Package to enjoy foot baths, massages, champagne, and chocolate-dipped strawberries in a
There are countless ways to romance the ones we love, but Hilda Hoy has rounded up a few unique favorites for all the Berlin lovebirds out there.
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PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE
JUST DO SOMETHING For some couples, nothing keeps the romance alive better than shared experiences. For a fun couples’ activity that promises plenty of laughs, why not drop in to Clärchens Ballhaus (Auguststr. 24, www. ballhaus.de) for a crash course in tango? First opened in 1913, this classic dance hall in Mitte has been bringing couples closer on the dance floor for more than a century. Dancers of all levels of experience are welcome at the Tuesday evening tango classes, held upstairs in the stunning Spiegelsaal, or “mirror room,” which is the very embodiment of faded grandeur. On other nights of the week, there are also drop-in classes in swing, salsa, and more. For the opportunity to get creative together, sign up for a couples’ workshop at Frau Tonis (Zimmerstr. 13, www.frautonis-parfum.com), a boutique perfumery that blends its own diverse scents, many of them with a unique hometown theme (“Eau de Berlin,” “Berlin Summer”). While sipping prosecco and doing plenty of sniffing, you’ll get the chance to explore your olfactory profiles
What's ro flowers mance witho ut ?F stunnin or the most g bo u q c hec k o u ut Mar ets, sa no (Charlo t te
and mix up your own admire the urban nstr. 75 personal perfume to skyline or track the former ) match the both of you. path of the Berlin Wall. By Whether for a wedding, far the most romantic tour of all is anniversary, or just because, the Candle Flight Dinner, which whisks creative couples can also sign up lovebirds off for a candlelit dinner at a to make their own set of matching 4-star, lakeside hotel in the countryside rings at the MVH Workshop, which east of Berlin. is part of an artists’ studio collective housed It’s not quite the adrenaline rush of in a former piano factory (Mengerzeile 3, flying, but the views from the sky-high, www.trauringe-berlin.com). Under the revolving restaurant in the TV Tower guidance of an expert jewelry maker, these (Panoramastr. 1a, www.tv-turm.de) are the hands-on workshops will walk you through next best thing. Ride the elevator a dizzying the process of making a beautiful pair of 207 meters up and nab a seat by the one-of-a-kind rings in whichever style you window to toast to your love with sunset like out of gold, platinum, or palladium. cocktails. Just don’t forget that the sun sets early here in this part of the Northern THRILLS AND CHILLS Hemisphere – between 5–5:45pm, To add a dose of excitement to a depending on whether the date falls closer relationship, a helicopter ride over the to the beginning or end of this city will definitely do the trick. Air Service month. Berlin (www.air-service-berlin.de) offers a variety of thrilling airborne tours over the city to
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SHOPPING | THE GUIDE
Clockwise, from left: a brooch from Wempe; a Chopard necklace; a ring by APM Monaco. Inset, below: A classic ring by Wagner Preziosen.
Diamonds Are A Girl's Best Friend If you’re planning on popping the question this Valentine’s Day, you’re not alone. Despite the perceived cheesiness of declaring your eternal love on a commercial holiday, almost six million people do it each year, according to an American Express consumer survey. Here are some of our favorite jewelry stores to ensure you’re well equipped for the occasion. Specializing in engagement and wedding rings, Niessing (Stilwerk, Kantstr. 17, www. niessing.com) is renowned for contemporary jewelry design and has received multiple Red Dot design awards. Their manufactory in Vreden near the German-Dutch border is the heart of the company, and oversees everything from design to melting of the gold bars to setting of the diamond. The Niessing gold color spectrum is unique worldwide, as is its Spannring ring, with only the tension of the two metal ends holding the gem in place. If it’s pure luxury you are after, visit Wempe
(Kurfürstendamm 215, www.wempe.com), one of Germany’s oldest family-owned companies. Established in 1878 as just a small watchmaker’s workshop, it quickly became an international brand for exquisite timepieces and jewelry. The current line of BY KIM engagement rings, introduced by the current owner and great-granddaughter of the founder, is the ultimate crown for anyone’s love story. Devoted to the various eras of jewelry making, Wagner Preziosen (Mommsenstr. 4, www.wagner-preziosen.de) carries both antiques and avant-garde pieces, as well as its own Wagner collection, combining classical jewelry with an exciting range of materials. One highlight is the sphere ring, made out of red gold with an engraved sun beneath a smoky quartz cabochon to convey different effects when
viewed from different angles. If you lack the words, a romantic gesture in the form of Chopard jewelry (Kurfürstendamm 54, www.chopard.com) will surely do the trick. Founded in 1860, this premium timepiece maker is also world-renowned for its haute-couture jewelry, engagement rings, and other accessories. Classics such as Chopard For Ever and For Ever Ring Pavé are a tribute to the exceptional expertise of Chopard’s craftsmen. However, if you’re not ready to tie the knot and are just looking for a special gift, then enter APM Monaco (Kurfürstendamm 217, www.apm-monaco. com). This popular contemporary fashion jewelry brand is inspired by the joie de vivre of southern France and will surely not disappoint.
© COURTESY OF WEMPE, CHOPARD, APM MONACO, WAGNER PREZIOSEN.
They say that “all that glitters is not gold," but Annabelle Mallia discovered plenty of glam at these jewelry stores.
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© COURTESY OF WEMPE, CHOPARD, APM MONACO, WAGNER PREZIOSEN.
SHOPPING
THE
where GUIDELINES
This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Every effort is made to provide accurate and updated information. However, information may be subject to last minute changes, so it is always advisable to call ahead.
INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS T: Telephone number S: S-Bahn, Above-ground train system U: U-Bahn, Underground train system MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 55–57. OPENING HOURS Opening hours may vary, so it’s best to call ahead. Shops are open Mon–Sat only, and Sunday shopping is only possible on certain Sundays of the year. This year, these are: 12 March, 7 May, 3 September, 1 October, 5 November, 3 December, 17 December. Groceries can be bought on Sundays at major train stations (Hauptbahnhof, Friedrichstraße, at Ullrich at Zoologischer Garten, or Ostbahnhof ). Shopping malls are open 10am–8pm and smaller stores only until 6pm. TOURIST INFORMATION VisitBerlin is the official source of information on the city. Call T: 030.25002333 for specific Berlin information, or go to www.visitberlin.de for details on all information centers, events, and sights. Tourist Info Points: Brandenburg Gate – Pariser Platz, daily 9:30am–6pm (until 7pm in summer). Hauptbahnhof – Europaplatz 1, Level 0, daily 8am–9pm. TV Tower Alexanderplatz – Panoramastr. 1a, daily 10am–4pm.
Tauentzienstr. 9–12. T: 030.26497940. U Kurfürstendamm, U Wittenbergplatz. C4
Galeria Kaufhof The former East German department store, renovated in 2006, showcases more than 600 exclusive brands and an exquisite gourmet section covering 35,000sq.m (377,000sq.ft) of space. www.galeria-kaufhof.de. Alexanderplatz 9. T: 030.247430. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3
Galeries Lafayette The Berlin branch of the exclusive Parisian department store is developed around an extraordinary glass cone. The three circular floors rise up around this centerpiece, packed with perfumes, clothing, and accessories. The food counter offers a wide range of French specialties and there’s a corner selling teas from the famed French tea house Mariage Frères. www.galerieslafayette.de. Friedrichstr. 76–78. T: 030.209480. U Französische Straße. E3
Kaufhaus des Westens (KaDeWe) The biggest and oldest department store in Germany sells only products of the highest quality. If you're short on time, the legendary gourmet food hall on the sixth floor is not to be missed. www.kadewe.de. Tauentzienstr. 21–24. T: 030.21210. U Wittenbergplatz. C4
Mall of Berlin 270 shops, 270 apartments, gyms, and pedestrian
areas define the new Mall of Berlin on Leipziger Platz, a world of shopping opportunities a stone’s throw from the city’s main tourist attractions. www.mallofberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 12. U Mohrenstraße. E3
Potsdamer Platz Arkaden This large shopping center offers more than 120 shops over three floors, stocking everything from clothes and accessories to electronics and groceries. Its restaurants and bars, both inside and in surrounding streets, also make it a very popular meeting spot. www.potsdamer-platz-arkaden.de. Alte Potsdamer Str. 7. T: 030.2559270. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
CONCEPT STORES Departmentstore Quartier 206 This multi-brand store inside the Quartier 206 luxury mall carries select men’s and women’s fashion, beauty products, books, art, and flowers. www.dsq206.com. Friedrichstr. 71. T: 030.20946500. U Französische Straße. E3
FASHION Barbour & Barbour Heritage Store Showcasing its collection for women, men, and children, this British label has a trendy, rugged look. Customers can also enjoy a shopping break with tea and coffee on cozy Chesterfield sofas
DEPARTMENT STORES & MALLS Alexa Hardcore shoppers love this mall for its sheer size, with over 180 stores spread over five levels. Highstreet retailers are well represented, and a large food court obliges when hunger overwhelms your desire to shop. www.alexacentre.com. Grunerstr. 20. T: 030.269340121. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3
BIKINI BERLIN Berlin's design and concept mall. BIKINI BERLIN is an extraordinary urban market square that exemplifies the idea of mixed-use space. Amid the mixture of public and commercial endeavors, the striking rooftop the size of a football field offers sensational views of Tiergarten park and of the zoo, and access to a plethora of restaurants and shopping attractions. www.bikiniberlin.de. Budapester Str. 42-50. T: 030.55496425. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4
Designer Outlet Berlin Your favorite designer brands with discounts up to 70 percent, at just 30 minutes from the city center. Also features cafes and restaurants, a children’s play area, free parking and more that 100 international brands. Shuttle bus from center on Fri-Sat. Bring a copy of Where Berlin to the office and get a further 10% off. Mon–Thu 10am–7pm, Fri and Sat to 8pm. www.designeroutletberlin.com. Alter Spandauer Weg 1. T: 033234.9040. Take the regional train to Elstal. Off Map
Europa Center This shopping mall on the Ku’damm offers a range of goods from over 70 shops. Check out the ingenious water clock designed by Bernard Gitton in 1982. www.europa-center-berlin.de.
Super Size Me Shop. Eat. Meet. These are the three corner pillars of SUPER, a concept space on the rooftop terrace of the BIKINI BERLIN shopping mall. Offering the perfect combination of store, restaurant, and rendezvous point, the store carries a selection of designer items from Berlin’s creative scene and from around the globe. But actually, you are invited to “shop what you see”, meaning it doesn’t matter if it’s the chair the man next to you is sitting on or the lamps hanging overhead – whatever it is, it's likely to be for sale. The menu is a creative crossover of Asian, Mediterranean, and South American influences, served in tasty small portions designed to pair up and share. For particularly hungry patrons, scrumptious burgers are also part of their repertoire and you’ll be spoilt for choice at their SUPER Sunday brunch. For yet another excuse to get together with friends, DJs turn the tables every SUPER Friday. Check their website for occasional performances, shows, and even workshops. Budapester Str. 50. T: 030 26930643. www. super-space.de
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1. Codello, Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12. 2. WOODONE, available through Brillenwerkstatt, Dircksenstr. 48. 3. Teresa Helbig, www.teresahelbig.com. 4. DAY Birger et Mikkelsen, www.day.dk. 5. Marc Cain, Kurfürstendamm 69 and Friedrichstr. 61. 6. Yves Delorme, Kurfürstendamm 51. 7. Liu Jo, Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12. 8. Yves Delorme, Kurfürstendamm 51.
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Pendant
399 €
0.081 ct. Gold & Diamond
For you endless love...
Leipziger Platz 12 Piazza 1.OG www.arisdiamond.com Tel: 030-55657982 WB ARIS ART OF DIAMOND.indd 1
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SHOPPING upstairs. www.barbour.com. Kurfürstendamm 26a.T: 030.88001773. U Uhlandstraße, U Kurfürstendamm. C4 Alte Schönhauser Str. 39. 030.23456828. U Weinmeister Straße. F2
Basler Founded in Berlin in 1936 and now sold around the globe, Basler stands for femininity and versatility, aiming to make women of all ages and sizes look and feel good. From everyday style to business casual to something elegant for a night out, you’ll find plenty to add to your wardrobe. Second store at Schloßstr. 28. www.basler-fashion.com. Kurfürstendamm 220. T: 030.88472949. U Kurfürstendamm. C4
Beatrice von Tresckow Sumptuous, elegant, somewhat extravagant. Beatrice Von Tresckow women's clothes are lively and colorful, an eye-catching addition to any wardrobe. www.beatricevontresckow.com, Leibnizstr. 60. T: 030 308318. U Adenauer Platz. C4
Boggi Milano Italian elegance for men. Specializes in highquality suits that are formal while also remaining comfortable, and also carries a sport casual collection. www.boggi.com. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4
Cotélac The French just have that certain je ne sais quoi when it comes to style. Laid-back, breezy, comfortable, and nonetheless elegant, the Cotélac collections capture that quintessential French style in clothing and accessories for both women and men. Brand hallmarks are fine fabrics, subtle details and unique prints created with special dye and fabric techniques. Mulackstr. 6. T: 030 53604074. www.cotelac.fr. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2
designer depot This boutique in Mitte offers selected designer fashion, shoes, and accessories for men and ladies at up to 50 percent off. There are more than 30 international labels such as Calvin Klein, Iceberg, Roberto Cavalli, and Valentino. www.designerdepot.net. Rochstr. 2. T: 030.28046700. U Weinmeisterstr. F2
Gobi Cashmere The first European store of this luxury Mongolian cashmere manufacturer opened in December 2017 to bring Berliners organic, high-quality cashmere fashion and fabrics produced in Asia to the highest standards. www.shop-gobi.com/en/. Knesebeckstr. 30. T: 030.22466513. U Uhlandstraße. E2
Marc Cain A worldwide premium brand for women’s fashion with its own production facility in Germany. Marc Cain effortlessly combines aesthetics and innovation in design and materials, making a declaration of love to women. www.marc-cain.com. Friedrichstr. 61. See website for more locations. T: 030.20077219. U Stadtmitte. E3
Onepiece A popular Norwegian brand, best known for its jumpsuits, beloved by celebrities. Comfortable pants, hoodies, shirts, and dresses complete the offering. www.onepiece.com. Litfaßplatz 1. T: 030.27580644. S Hackescher Markt. F3
Patrick Hellmann Among the most successful luxury brands in the fashion world, Patrick Hellmann stands for timelessness, elegant designs, quality materials,
and extravagant details. There are also clothes by Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior, and Dolce & Gabbana. www.patrick-hellmann.com. Kurfürstendamm 190–192. T: 030.88487711. U Adenauerplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4
Planet Berlin Described as "luxury with a touch of rock and roll," the store will have you decked out for your next glamorous night of clubbing. They stock classic labels such as Converse and Dr. Martens, as well as new labels like Japan Rags, whose jeans for both men and women have already achieved cult status. www.planetwear.de. Schlüterstr. 35. T: 030 8852717. S Savignyplatz. B4
Rebecca Store With a unique boudoir atmosphere, this concept store is a harmonious medley of European and American designers, including Yigal Azrouel, Vera Wang, and Gas Bijoux. All items are personally selected by owner Rebecca Zehden on her many trips abroad. www.rebecca-berlin.de. Alte Schönhauser Str. 41. T: 030 34620780. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2
Twin-Set Italian designer Simona Barbieri began her career in the 1990s focusing her activity on knitwear and female clothing, but soon after expanded her collection to add bags, lingerie, beachwear, and shoes. Today, Twin-Set is known internationally for its style, which is both elegant and feminine. Mall of Berlin. T: 030.22152081. U Mohrenstraße. E3
UNIQLO Originally a chain of roadside stores in suburban Japan, this brand quickly became an Asian sensation and has now expanded to trendy urban hubs around the globe. Their Berlin flagship store has three floors of quality basics and fashion for women, men, and children. www.uniqlo.com. Tauentzienstr. 7. T: 030 29028260. U Wittenbergplatz. C4; Leipziger Platz 16. S+U Potsdamer Platz. E3; Rosenthaler Str. 42; S Hackescher Markt. F3
Shoes & Accessories
Trüffelschwein
bagatt Milano
The Trüffelschwein man is never overdressed – he simply looks good, with a collection of small niche brands from London, Paris, and New York. www. trueffelschweinberlin.com. Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 21. T: 030.70221225. U Weinmeisterstr. F2
Bagatt epitomizes the appreciation for beauty for which Italy is known. With its core philosophy of fine Italian craftsmanship, bagatt Milano applies the highest quality standards to its collection of shoes, handbags and accessories. Browse the
Decadent With A Hint Of Fetish Playing with the beauty of the unconventional, Berlin-based designer Marina Hoermanseder combines the female silhouette with 18th-century orthopedic elements. Tight-fitting leather corsets contrasted with delicate, flowing fabrics and skirts made from buckled belts are just some examples of her unusual style. The designer’s first show at Berlin’s 2014 Fashion Week was a great success, with Lady Gaga herself placing orders right after. Hoermanseder's style keeps evolving, and the 2016 spring collection saw blue lacquered breastplates paired with a voluminous leather skirt, however also taking a more feminine turn by adding dainty, leather flowers, and porcelain-inspired pastels into the designs. Her collections are always colorful and lively, and to make things more playful, one of her latest lines incorporates elements from Hello Kitty, a childhood passion. Lobeckstr. 36-40. T: 030 21300977. www.marinahoermanseder.com
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shelves for contemporary, comfortable looks for everyday wear or elegant heels. Email: bagattberlino@gmail.com. Bikini Berlin: Budapester Str. 38–50. T:030 25759777. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4
Michael Kors The New York-based designer Michael Kors is known for his ready-to-wear fashion and luxury accessories – bags, watches, jewelry, shoes, and other award-winning designs. www.michaelkors. com. Kurfürstendamm 219. T: 030.81825760. U Uhlandstr. C4; Rosenthaler Str. 37. T: 030.24088690. F2
New Era Flagship Store Looking for a new cap? This is the largest and fastest growing headwear producer in the world. There are more than 1000 styles over two floors, ranging from the classic baseball cap to modern designs, including their bestseller 59fifty, popular with the skater and hip hop crowd. www. neweracap.com. An der Spandauer Brücke 7. T: 030.27890578. S Hackescher Markt. F2
Jewelry & Watches Chopard Jewelry and watches loved by celebrities. This luxury jewelry brand combines Swiss perfection with timeless style for the elite. www.chopard.com. Kurfürstendamm 54. T: 030.70096980. U Adenauer Platz. B4 KaDeWe, Tauentzienstr. 21-24. T: 030.206039830. U Wittenbergplatz. C4 T: 030.8819762. E3
ROLEX Boutique One of the most famous brands in luxury, Rolex has been making wristwatches since 1905. First created in England, the company soon moved to Switzerland, and its perfect timepieces are recognized worldwide as the ultimate symbol of elegance and refinement. www.rolex.de. www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.55669010. U Uhlandstraße. E2
Selected shops for the savvy shopper Client - McAG
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Size - 118x124mm
Wempe One of the oldest family businesses in Germany is renowned for its passion for fine jewelry and watches, and in particular for its precision timepieces and attention to detail. www.wempe. de. Kurfürstendamm 215. See website for more locations. T: 030.8826878. U Uhlandstraße. C4; Friedrichstr. 82. T: 030.20399920. U Französische Straße. E3
BEAUTY & WELLNESS
Parfumsalon An exclusive perfume boutique that has been offering fragrances for more than five decades. The shop's selection include rarities and special aromas, all hand-picked by owner and perfume expert Mario Worms. www.parfumsalon.de. Uhlandstr. 173-174. T: 030.8827306. E3
©istock
Catherine Nail Salon The popular Catherine nailcare brand now has a nail salon here in Berlin. Stop by or make an appointment for some grooming time between shopping and sightseeing. www.catherine-berlin.de. Knesebeck Str. 35. T: 030. 55214475. U Uhlandstraße. E3
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SHOPPING MAPS
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Selected shops for the Savvy Shopper ®
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More than a century of precision craftsmanship comes to the Ku'damm in the form of Germany's first Rolex Boutique. The flagship store offers a distinctive experience, including an exclusive setting and world-class service.
This exclusive perfume boutique has been offering extraordinary fragrances since the 1960s. Mario Worms is an expert in perfume counseling, offering advice on the perfect scent for every client, and the shop's selection includes rare bottles and unusual aromas. Uhlandstraße 173-174. T: 030 8827306 www.parfumsalon.de
High-quality wardrobe essentials for the whole family can be found at this Japanese fashion chain that has taken the world by storm. Deftly marrying fashion with practicality, UNIQLO is especially known for its innovative fabrics and luxurious yet affordable cashmere sweaters. Tauentzienstr. 7B/C. T: 030 29028260 www.uniqlo.com/de
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Visit our BREE Stores in Berlin LP12 Mall of Berlin Leipziger Platz 12-13 10117 Berlin KaDeWe Tauentzienstr. 21-24 10789 Berlin Kurfürstendamm Kurfürstendamm 36 10719 Berlin shop online at bree.com
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BELLE REBELLE Make a good first impression with beautifully manicured hands. This hotspot for hand and nail cosmetics hinges upon expert beauticians and top-quality products from the Catherine Nail Collection. Delivering to beauty salons worldwide, the brand is renowned in nail design and presents their selection now in their own studio just off Berlin’s luxury shopping strip, the Ku’damm.
The Charlottenburg boutique offers fragrance lovers a break from the everyday, with scents you won't find in your neighborhood department store. Staff are renowned for their expertise, so come prepared to ask your toughest beauty questions. The cosmetics and personal-care products for men and women are as singular as the perfume selection.
Knesebeckstr. 35-37. T: 030 55214475 www.catherine-berlin.de
Bleibtreustraße 42. T: 030 679672050 www.bellerebelle.de
CATHERINE NAIL SALON
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Spoil yourself at this intimate boutique. Geared towards self-confident, independent women, Meyer & Nehls stocks unique pieces for that special occasion, as well as business and casual attire. If you are looking for fashion advice, owners and style experts Lars and Frank Nehls are there to help.
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A real treasure trove for exquisite individual fashion pieces, exciting accessories, and high-quality Italian leather bags for women. You'll find different styles and many different designer brands in a wide price range. Enjoy the relaxed atmosphere and friendly reception. Credit cards accepted and Tax Free possible.
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Zeppelin Mode Goldsteg Chapeaux Hüte und Mützen Goldschmiede-Kutzbach Cimp Schmuckdesign Paper & Tea GRO
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Uhlandstraße Catherine Nail Salon
BODO DILG GOLDSCHMIEDE
A master in his field, Bodo Dilg creates unique pieces of contemporary jewelry using gold and precious stones against a backdrop of stucco and cement tiles. A stop for soon to wed partners, nestled between the Savignyplatz and luxury-shopping strip Ku'damm. Watch the jeweler as he creates masterpieces right in the store, or browse the showroom, designed to make customers relaxed and comfortable.
Grolmanstr. 30/31. T: 030 88675355 www.bodo-dilg.de
Bleibtreustr. 13. T: 030 88678578 www.meyerundnehls.de 26 W H E R E B E R L I N I F E B R UA R Y 2017
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Manufacturing clothing purely from organically grown natural fibers, founding twin sisters Anja and Sandra apply the highest standards of innovation and sustainability when creating their designs. The focus is on timeless beauty and the art of Japanese cutting, combining flattering silhouettes with precise lines. Friedrichstr. 71. T: 030 24085534 www.umasan-berlin.com shop stop
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This perfume house was created in 1904 to provide unique luxury fragrances made with the finest ingredients. In 1905, Krigler’s shop on Unter den Linden witnessed the flourishing of Berlin’s Weimar era, and early fans of Krigler perfumes included celebrities, such as John F. Kennedy, Audrey Hepburn, and Grace Kelly. Hotel Adlon, Unter den Linden 77. T: 030 80494144 www.krigler.eu
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FRAU TONIS PARFUM This perfume manufactory has been described as Berlin’s most beautiful perfumery. Try classics such as Linde Berlin, or Marlene Dietrich’s favorite perfume, Pure Violet. Join other fragrance aficionados from all over the world, and create your own, private perfume. Zimmerstr. 13 (Checkpoint Charlie). T: 030 20215310 www.frau-tonis-parfum.com www.wheretraveler.com 27
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Fashion & Accessories 7 FOR ALL
BREE
MANKIND
C&A
adidas Neo
CALZEDONIA
Airfield
Casano
Almano -
CHRIST
Ledermanufaktur
CINQUE
ARMANI JEANS
Claire’s
Backlash
Clarks Ecco
Bershka
Coco California
BIJOU BRIGITTE
Codello
BIMBA Y LOLA
Cordon Berlin
COS Deichmann Denim & Supply by Ralph Lauren DESIGUAL Dogo Shoes Einblick Optik EPL Diamond Esprit Eterna FALKE FASHION CLUB Fast Forward Foot Locker Fossil French Connection Frisco Jeans G-Star Raw GANT GINA TRICOT GUESS H&M
HALLHUBER Hollister HUGO BOSS Hunkemöller Intersport INTIMISSIMI Jack & Jones JD Sports KARL LAGERFELD Kingz Konplott LACOSTE LAURÈL Levi’s LIEBESKIND Lief! Liu Jo LLOYD Look 54 MANGO MARC CAIN Marc O’Polo
MASSIMO DUTTI Mavi MAX & CO. Mephisto MEXX Muji NAVYBOOT Nike Oakley Odlo Olymp One Green Elephant PANDORA Passionata PATRIZIA PEPE Peek & Cloppenburg Pepe Jeans René Lezard Reno Replay Rich & Royal
Runners Point S & D sons and daughters Salamander Sarar Schiesser Schiesser Uncover SCHMUCKRAUSCH Schuh Bode SHOE CITY Shoe Connect Shok Sidestep SNIPES Sportalm Kitzbühel SPORTSCHECK Street Shoes STRELLSON STRENESSE STYLE MODE Sunglass Hut SWAROVSKI
Taschenparadies THOMAS SABO Tom Tailor TOMMY HILFIGER Trigema Triumph TWIN-SET UN1DEUX2TROIS3 Undiz Uniqlo Vans VERO MODA WE-Fashion Wigglesteps WORMLAND ZARA ZERO ...and more.
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Selected shops for the Savvy Shopper ®
Berlin
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A PLACE FOR SHOPPING
Arkaden Shops open from Mon-Sat, 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. POTSDAMERPLATZ.DE
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DESIGNER DEPOT With high-class fashion prices cut by 50%, this fashion outlet is heaven for brand hunters. And that's even more true this month, with their special inventory sale. Browse through their unique pieces, which range from everyday to dressy items for special occasions. Tax Free shopping available.
UNIQLO High-quality wardrobe essentials for the whole family can be found at this Japanese fashion chain that has taken the world by storm. Deftly marrying fashion with practicality, UNIQLO is especially known for its innovative fabrics and luxurious yet affordable cashmere sweaters.
Rochstrasse 2. T: 030 28046700 www.facebook.com/ddmitte www.designer-depot.net
Mon-Sat 10am to 9pm. Rosenthaler Str. 42 www.uniqlo.com/de SHOP STOP
HACKESCHER MARKT AND MITTE
Modomoto Atelier Einhundert
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Nothing keeps feet cozier and warmer on cold winter days than a pair of UGG shoes, the soft sheepskin shoes from California that have earned a cult following around the world. Until the end of February, visit the UGG pop-up store on Rosenthaler Straße for classic UGG shoes plus the latest from the brand’s footwear, clothing and accessories lines.
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Lala Berlin Rosa-Luxemburg Platz Wolfen Germany Boutique Ganni Berlin E S S A M R V T ULAC OLKE S T S U K Cotélac R LA S AUG Greta NG S TRASSE tore & Luis Ka STE tje INS Trippen TRA sC SSE afé GIPSS Gr TRAS SE ün Onitsuka L REBECCA HIRT O i Be eb SOP ENS Bimba y Lola n S es hr HIE TRA he kin NST SSE Weinmeisterstr. Freitag RAS rman d 11 SE Trüffelschwein Ma Wrangler vi Oakley Promobo Porsche Design Blush Lingerie MÜ Michael Kors N ZST MÜHLE Store Berlin Ad MCM RA Strellson ida SSE Gretchen Store W Anine Bing s B Dr IK ee Home on earth UGGuffa ykor KS kda designer depot l n y UN Pop o Hackesche Höfe IQ -up Boots & Shoes LO Mykita Volution Sports KSENSTRASSE Riccardo Cartillone DIRC MO Frosch & Königin NB IJO New Era Flagship Store UP L. SE Hackescher Markt TRAS S H C RO Onepiece Concept Store
SHOP STOP
PROMOBO
REBECCA STORE
ONEPIECE
Pick up something totally unique at Promobo, a shop concept dedicated to fun, offbeat, eyecatching design objects. Many of the home décor items, fashion, and gifts are made in small workshops around Germany using recycled materials.
With a unique boudoir atmosphere, this concept store is a harmonious medley of European and American designers, including Alexander Wang, Vera Wang, Tibi and Alice+Olivia, and all items are personally selected by owner Rebecca Zehden on her many trips abroad.
Popular Norwegian apparel brand Onepiece has become globally recognized in large part due to their celebrity-adored and very comfortable jumpsuits. In the shop you will find a huge variety of perfect Christmas gifts: Onesies, pants, hoodies, jackets and much more.
Alte Schönhauser Str. 41. T: 030 34620780 www.rebecca-berlin.de
Litfaßplatz 1. T: 030 27580644 www.onepiece.com
Rosenthalerstr. 40–41, Hackesche Höfe 3 & 5. T: 030 30347671 www.promobo.de 30 W H E R E B E R L I N I F E B R UA R Y 2017
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NUMBER ONE IN SHOPPING, LEISURE & ENTERTAINMENT IN BERLIN MO - SA 10am - 9pm ALEXA AT ALEXANDERPLATZ OPEN ON SUNDAYS: FOOD COURT AND LEISURE AREA
180 SHO PS FA S H I O N , ACCESS O R IE S , E L EC T R O N I CS , B O O KS & M UCH M ORE S H O PPI N G
www.alexacentre.com |
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SHOPPING
LUXURY BRANDS AIGNER
DOROTHEE SCHUMACHER
www.aignermunich.com. Kurfürstendamm 50. T: 030.88683668. U Uhlandstraße. B4
www.dorothee-schumacher.com. Departmentstore Quartier 206, Friedrichstr. 71. T: 030 20946099. U Französische Straße. E3
BALLY www.bally.com. Kurfürstendamm 52. T: 030.88707688. U Uhlandstraße. B4
BOGGI MILANO www.boggi.it. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4
BOSS www.hugoboss.com. Friedrichstr. 165. T: 030.20613890. U Französische Straße. E3
BOTTEGA VENETA www.bottegaveneta.com. Kurfürstendamm 59-60. T: 030.70550770. U Adenauerplatz. B4
BUCHERER www.bucherer.com. Friedrichstr. 45. T: 030.2041049. U Kochstraße. E4
BULGARI
SHOE CRAZY? Check out some of our favorite shoe shops!
RICCARDO CARTILLONE With 11 stores around town, Cartillone sells select Italian designer shoes of the highest quality and caters to the needs of celebrities around the world. Savignyplatz 4, 5. www.cartillone.de
www.bulgari.com. Kurfürstendamm 190-192. T: 030.8857920. U Uhlandstraße. B4
EMPORIO ARMANI www.armani.com. Friedrichstr. 169-170. T: 030 20615660. U Stadtmitte. E3
ESCADA www.escada.com. Kurfürstendamm 195. T: 030.88923815. U Uhlandstraße. B4
ETRO www.etro.com. Departmentstore Quartier 206, Friedrichstr. 71. T: 030.20946120. U Französische Straße. E3
MAURICE LACROIX www.mauricelacroix.de. Friedrichstr. 166. T: 030.33024852. U Französische Straße. E3
MCM www.mcmworldwide.com. Rosenthaler Str. 38. T: 030.28493793. S Hackescher Markt. F2
PAL ZILERI www.palzileri.com. Kurfürstendamm 175-176. T: 030.88910700. U Adenauerplatz. B4
PRADA www.prada.com. Kurfürstendamm 186. T: 030.887110840. U Adenauerplatz. B4
CHOPARD
ROLEX
www.chopard.com Kurfürstendamm 54. T: 030 70096980. U Uhlandstraße. B4
www.rolex.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.55669010. U Adenauerplatz. B4
DOLCE & GABBANA www.dolcegabbana.com. Kurfürstendamm 187. T: 030 33096590. U Adenauerplatz. B4
WEMPE www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.8826878. U Adenauerplatz. B4
TRIPPEN These Berlin-produced boots are made to last, combining innovative designs with environmental sustainability. Hackesche Höfe, Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. www.trippen.de
SOLEBOX This sneaker paradise has everything for the sporty foot, from trekking shoes to fashionable styles, plus all the latest trends. Nürnberger Str. 14. www.solebox.com
SHUSTA With a store in Mitte’s fashion district, Shusta blends everyday styles with more eccentric, urban looks for both the ladies and the gents. Rosenthaler Str. 72. www.shusta.de
LE COUP Offering contemporary footwear from a handpicked selection of avant-garde labels, this women’s shoe emporium shows the direction Luxury mall Quartier to walk next. 206 on Friedrichstraße. Steinstr. 16. www.lecoupshoes.com 32 W H E R E B E R L I N I F E B R UA R Y 2017
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THE GUIDE | SIGHTSEEING
Where It All Began
all photos: © istock.
Solveig Steinhardt explored the pretty alleys of Nikolaiviertel, where Berlin was born. Known as Berlin's authentic "old town," the riverside tangle of characterful cobbled alleys surrounding the Nikolaikirche dates back to the 12th century, when Berlin and its twin town of Cölln (now Museum Island) were first built. The Nikolaiviertel, as the district is called, was always the city's oldest residential neighborhood, and before WWII it was lined with inns, shops, and small businesses. But after war bombings destroyed most of its buildings, the area lay in ruins until 1987, when, to celebrate Berlin's 750th birthday, the city of East Berlin decided to use historic models to build replicas of the old buildings and to resuscitate the neighborhood's old style and scale. Today, the small streets exude the German flavor of a bygone era, and a walk through the alleys is a great way to understand the mood and atmosphere of old Berlin. Upon closer inspection, however, you will find the occasional GDR detail, such as concrete decorations where stuccos once were, or peculiar Plattenbau
blocks, to remind us that not everything we see is original, and adding to the area's historic significance. Nikolaiviertel is filled with small antique and artists' shops, including the marvelous Käthe Kruse doll manufactory (Propststr. 4), and traditional German Kneipen such as Brauhaus Georgbräu (www.brauhaus -georgbraeu.de), serving delicious pork knuckles and sauerkraut in a cellar-like locale. To learn more about the area, visit the Nikolaikirche, hosting a permanent exhibition on the history of the church and its surroundings. The nearby Ephraim Palais (www.en.stadtmuseum.de), now also a museum, provides a marvelous example of 18th-century palace architecture in Berlin and hosts regular art exhibitions, while the Knoblauch-Haus (www.en.stadtmuseum.de) gives visitors a glimpse into the life of a rich 19th-century family, exploring Biedermeier culture and social life through faithfully reconstructed rooms, furniture, documents, and paintings. www.wheretraveler.com 33
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Major Sights The “Alex” TV Tower The 368m- (1027ft)-high TV tower of Alexanderplatz can be seen from almost any point in the city and has been iconic of Berlin ever since it was built by the GDR in 1969. The giant steel-clad sphere atop houses a revolving restaurant and café as well as a viewing platform. The elevator ride lasts 40 seconds. Arrive early to avoid lines. Daily 9am–midnight (Nov–Feb from 10am). €13/8.50. www.tv-turm.de. Panoramastr. 1a. T: 030.24757537. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3
Berliner Dom The city’s neo-Renaissance cathedral was begun in the late 1700s, finished in 1905, and renovated in simplified form after WWII damage. Walk up 267 steps for glorious views of the city from the dome, or stay on the ground floor to gaze at elaborate sarcophagi containing the royal remains of Hohenzollern family members. Thanks to the church’s perfect acoustics and a 7200-pipe organ, the Dom is also an important concert venue. Mon–Sat 9am–8pm, Sun 9am–8pm (winter until 7pm). €7/5. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269119. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3
Brandenburg Gate MUST SEE The definitive Berlin icon, Carl Gotthard
Langhans’ Neoclassical triumphal arch has witnessed the city’s best and worst moments, from the military parades of the Third Reich to the Wall being raised and torn down. Formerly behind GDR borders, today the gate acts mainly as the backdrop for festivals, New Year’s Eve parties, and tourist snapshots. U Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3
Nikolaiviertel and Knoblauchhaus The Nikolaiviertel is where Berlin was born, and the area still retains its ancient character, although most of the buildings in the narrow medieval alleys are replicas of destroyed originals that dated back to the 1200s. The late-Gothic Nikolaikirche, Berlin’s oldest surviving building, is now a museum. Other points of interest include the Ephraim Palais Museum and the Biedermeierstyle Knoblauchhaus, a 19th-century middleclass townhouse that escaped WWII damage. Knoblauch Haus: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. www.knoblauchhaus.de. Poststr. 23. T: 030.240020171. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3
Potsdamer Platz Before the war, Potsdamer Platz was the city’s beating heart, with department stores, banks, internationally known theaters, dance halls, and cafés. WWII bombs obliterated 80 percent of the square, which was left in limbo for a few years and then enclosed in a no-man’s-land between the Wall and barbed wire fences. The square came back to life in the 1990s as a modern reinterpretation of its original self. Divided in three slices, it includes the Sony building with its central plaza; Daimler City, home to a large shopping mall; and the Manhattan-style Beisheim Center building. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Reichstag and Foster’s Glass Cupola MUST SEE In the last 100 years, the massive neo-Renaissance building, now the seat of German Parliament, has been bombed, set on fire, wrapped by artist Christo, and renovated by Lord Norman Foster. Climb the glass cupola for a 360-degree view of the city, then gaze down at parliament in session. The plenary hall can be visited only on guided tours.
Cupola: Daily 8am–midnight by appointment only. Free. Register on website; it is recommended to do so at least three days prior to your visit. Audio tours available. www.bundestag.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030.22732152. U Bundestag. D3/E3
Siegessäule (Victory Column) The triumphal column on the Straße der 17. Juni, in the middle of Tiergarten park, commemorates victory in the Prusso-Danish war, while the angel on top was added after two further war victories against Austria and France. Daily 9:30am–6:30pm (weekends until 7pm); winter 10am–5pm (weekends until 5:30pm). €3/2. Großer Stern 1. T: 030.3912961. U Hansaplatz. C3/D3
Historic Sites Asisi’s Wall Panorama Yadegar Asisi created a panorama of divided Berlin, presenting everyday life against the backdrop of the Wall on an imaginary day in the 1980s. The artist's aim was to show how the population came to terms with the situation, and the result gives onlookers a glimpse of East German life. Daily 10am–6pm. €10/4. www.asisi.de. Friedrichstr. 205. T: 0341.3555340. U Kochstraße. E3/E4
Berlin Wall Documentation Center MUST SEE Walk along one of the few surviving stretches of the Berlin Wall in an area of the city where its impact was particularly dramatic, then delve into its storied history at the documentation center. Documents and original radio broadcasts from both East and West chronicle one of Germany’s saddest historical periods. Open-air exhibition: 8am-10pm daily; documentation center: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. Free. www.berliner-mauer-
Charlottenburg Palace The summer home of Sophie Charlotte, wife of King Friedrich I of Prussia, reflects the grandeur of the Hohenzollern family. Begun in 1695, the luxury Baroque complex consists of a main building with a central cupola and two side wings, added in later years, that enclose a courtyard. The picturesque park surrounding the castle includes a formal French-style garden, English garden with pond and statues, belvedere, and mausoleum. The castle hosts temporary art and history exhibitions. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm). €12/8. www.spsg.de. Spandauer Damm 20-24. T: 030.9694200. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3
Hackesche Höfe
Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche The church’s bombed-out bell tower has been an anti-war memorial and symbol of West Berlin ever since its ruins were restored to their present state in 1957. The old church now hosts an exhibition of before-and-after photos documenting its and Ku'damm's former splendor. Inside, look up to admire what remains of the old mosaic. Daily 9am–7pm. www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. Breitscheidplatz. T: 030.2185023. U Zoologischer Garten, U Kurfürstendamm. C4
In East Berlin’s Very Backyard Up until October 1990, the Stasi, East Germany's secret police, operated a political prison in the restricted military area of Hohenschönhausen, in the deep northeast of East Berlin. Eerily, by omitting the Stasi Prison (p. 35) from all maps, the penitentiary flew under the public radar until after reunification, and knowledge of the prison and its horrific operations are known today mainly through first-hand accounts. The long halls, some subterranean, are flanked by cells that once housed prisoners who were subjected to psychological torture, including sleep deprivation and isolation. Nowadays, the site is a memorial dedicated to the formerly interned, several of whom now lead tours. A permanent exhibition on site, featuring photographs, letters, and artefacts, gives visitors a glimpse of the hardships the imprisoned had to endure and of the oppressive measures of the GDR regime. (English tours daily at 2:30pm.)
This page and next: © istock.
An intricate series of interconnected courtyards provides an example of early-19th-century German Secessionist style. The first courtyard is entirely decorated with glazed blue-and-white tiles in geometric designs, while the apartment buildings and narrow, maze-like alleys lined with cafés, shops, and theaters give the Höfe an atmosphere both familiar and fascinating. Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. S Hackescher Markt. E2/F2
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Checkpoint Charlie During the Cold War, Checkpoint Charlie was the main gateway between East and West. Shortly after the Wall went up, US and Soviet tanks faced each other on this spot. Today, the crossing point acts primarily as a backdrop for tourist photographs. U Kochstraße, U Stadtmitte. E3/E4
young children. Daily 10am–6pm (winter weekends until 5pm). €20.50/12.30(discount when booking online). Under-14s must be accompanied by adult. Combined LEGOLAND, Madame Tussauds, and Sea Life tickets available. www.thedungeons.com. Spandauer Str. 2. S+U Hackescher Markt. F3
Berlin Zoo and Aquarium
While West Berliners loved to express their creativity by drawing graffiti and painting on the Wall, East Berliners were never allowed to use the dividing structure as a canvas. To make up for all the artless years, artists from 21 countries were called upon in 1990 to decorate one mile of the Wall's eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery. Mühlenstraße. S+U Warschauer Straße, S Ostbahnhof. G4
MUST SEE One of the city’s main attractions and the oldest zoo in Germany includes pavilions that provide ample indoor space, making the venue suitable for rainy days. The zoo boasts the largest number of species and total animal residents in the world. The aquarium, one of the largest in Europe, features large tanks with piranhas, sharks, and alligators. Daily 9am–6:30pm. Zoo or aquarium: €14.50/7.50, under-4s free. Combined ZooAquarium ticket: €20/10. www.aquarium-berlin.de, www.zoo-berlin.de Hardenbergplatz 8. T: 030.254010. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4
Holocaust Memorial
Currywurst Museum
East Side Gallery
MUST SEE Berlin’s tribute to the victims of the
Holocaust is as big as a soccer field and consists of 2711 tombstone-like slabs of equal size and varying heights, placed on uneven ground to convey a sense of claustrophobia and disorientation. The underground information center provides a timeline of Jewish persecution. Accessible 24 hours a day. Free. www.holocaust-mahnmal.de. Cora-Berliner Straße. T: 030.2639430. U Brandenburger Tor. E3
Stasi Prison
With the fall of the Wall came the birth of Ostalgia a German term refers to nostalgia for aspects of life in East Germany. And for those who are feeling a bit ostalgic today, we've picked a few places that still feel like it's 1987.
Learn about Berlin’s most famous street food at this small but entertaining museum. Delve into Currywurst history, discover the secrets of its yellow sauce in the "spice chamber," and watch movies starring the delicious sausage. Daily 10am–8pm. €11/7, under-6s free. www. currywurstmuseum.de. Schützenstr. 70. T: 030.88718647. U Kochstraße. E4
Madame Tussauds Have your picture taken with Angela Merkel, Albert Einstein, One Direction, or a host of other famous names in entertainment and politics. And, yes, there's even a wax Adolf Hitler, depicted as a little man standing in despair in his bunker during his final days. Daily 10am–7pm (Aug until 8pm). €23.50/18.50, discounts if you book online. Combined Berlin Dungeon, LEGOLAND, and Sea Life tickets available. www.madametussauds.com. Unter den Linden 74. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3
MUST SEE Between 1945 and 1989, more than 20,000 people suspected of opposing the East German political system were arrested by the Stasi (secret police) and brought to this custody building. In its first and darkest years, the prison’s cellars, known as “the submarine,” were used to inflict psychological torture on the inmates, while Sea Life & AquaDom the relatively more humane cells are on the upper Dazzling clownfish, scary sharks, crawling spider floors, next to a seemingly never-ending corridor crabs, and quirky seahorses are just some lined with interrogation rooms. Tours in of the 5000 creatures inhabiting this English on Wed, Sat, and Sun at 2:30pm small but interesting aquarium. in winter, daily at 11:30am and 2:30pm Discover the ethereal dance of in summer. €6/3. en.stiftung-hsh.de. the jellyfish and observe the rays Genslerstr. 66. T: 030.98608230. Berlin is not only the largest on your way to the Aquadom, S Landsberger Allee, then Tram city in Germany: It is also the a 16m-tall cylindrical tropical M5 to Freienwalder Str., then greenest, with almost 32 fish tank that can be viewed 10-minute walk. Off Map percent of the city surface from a slow elevator. Daily covered in forest Topographie des Terrors 10am–7pm. €17.95/14.50 (discounts and water. MUST SEE On the site of the former when booking online). Under-3s headquarters of the SS and the Third free. Combined Berlin Dungeon, Reich’s most important offices, this LEGOLAND, and Madame Tussauds tickets permanent exhibition recounts the tragic history available. www.visitsealife.com. Spandauer Str. 3. of Nazi forced labor, focusing on the central S+U Alexanderplatz. F3 institutions of the SS and Third Reich police and the crimes they committed throughout Europe. A segment of the Wall runs along the grounds. Daily 10am–8pm. Free. www.topographie.de. Sanssouci Niederkirchnerstr. 8. MUST SEE The sumptuous Rococo castle of T: 030.2545090. U Kochstraße. E4 Potsdam's Sanssouci was commissioned in 1745 by Frederick the Great, who wanted "a place to be without cares." The king of Prussia employed the Berlin Dungeon finest architects of the day to design the Baroque Much like the London Dungeon, the Berlin park, the Schloß placed above terraced vineyards, Dungeon provides a terrifying interactive journey the more sober New Palace, and a few other through the city's dark past via a sometimespavilions scattered in the park. Daily 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm); Mon closed. €15/11. www.spsg. spooky, actor-led experience. Visitors are taken de. An der Orangerie 1, Potsdam. T: 0331.9694200. through attractions such as the old library of Berlin, a plague-infected street, a torture chamber, S Potsdam or train from Zoologischer Garten to Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map a secret court, and more. Not recommended for
Potsdam
Kids & Families
"OSTALGIA" SPOTS
TOP 5
gedenkstaette.de. Bernauer Str. 111. U Bernauer Straße. E2
1 Karl-Marx-Allee: Former East Berlin's most important boulevard makes for a prime example of GDR architecture, with some old shops still standing, abandoned and desolate.
2 The Stasi Museum: Provides tangible proof of the espionage techniques used by the East German secret police to control the population.
3 VEB Orange: The store near Mauerpark sells original GDR design, from retro lamps to armchairs and kitchen utensils, including the iconic chicken-shaped egg holders. www. veborange.de)
4 Tränenpalast: The old border control building between East and West in the Friedrichstraße station was dubbed "Palace of Tears" because of the sad farewells it had to witness every day.
5 TRABI World: This tour company offers the quintessential GDR experience aboard a real Trabant, East Germany's iconic car. You'll be driving your own "Trabi" while following the group leader and listening to his instructions and historical facts via the car's radio. www.trabi-world.de.
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES | THE GUIDE
A Private Glimpse Into The City Of Art Serene Tseng steps into the private realm of art collecting. With more museums and galleries than rainy days, it’s no wonder that Berlin is filled with art. But what makes art in the capital even more fascinating is how closely interwoven its presence is in the lives of private collectors. These Berliners often welcome visitors into their homes, offering not only a glimpse into their collection, but also giving the public the opportunity to appreciate art in an alternative space. The most famous private collection is me Collectors Room (www.me-berlin.com), where owner Thomas Olbricht's hosts other collectors from the world over to bring together art and discuss its meaning. Not too far away and housed in a gigantic, five-story WWII air raid bunker, the Sammlung Boros (www.sammlung-boros. de) is home to a large collection of international contemporary art from 1990 to
the present, featuring works from artists such as Ai Weiwei, Olafur Eliasson, and Alicja Kwade. Artists set up the installations themselves, so the physicality of the ample space is used with intention. For the visitor, the overlapping of different mediums and media – the sculptures, installations, paintings, video, sound, and photography – becomes an interactive experience. The Feuerle Collection (www.thefeuerlecollection. org) is similarly housed inside a WWII-era telecommunication bunker and features contemporary art next to Chinese design and Khmer sculpture. Furniture from bygone eras, from the Han Dynasty to the Qing, is shown alongside 7th- to 13th-century Khmer sculptures. The juxtaposition fosters dialogue
between the different cultures and periods. Since 1997, Erika Hoffmann and her late husband have been opening their doors to their private collection, housed in a former sewing machine factory. The Sammlung Hoffmann (www. sammlung-hoffmann.de) features work by artists such as Wolfgang Tillmans, Katharina Grosse, and Isa Genzken, and Hoffmann herself rearranges and switches out pieces in the gallery every July to encourage new interpretations. Interestingly, there are no information panels next to each work, letting visitors focus on their emotional connection with the work. Before visiting, advance registration for a guided tour is required on the collectors' respective websites.
me collectors room and thomas olbricht: courtesy of me collectors room (wunderkammer and installation: © bernd borchardt, olbricht: © jana ebert); Sammlung boros: courtesy of sammlung boros, upper right image © Thomas ruff; lower right: danh vo.
Clockwise from top left: the exhbibition space at me Collectors Room; modern paintings inside the WWII bunker hosting the Boros collection; the Wunderkammer at me Collectors Room. Inset, below: Thomas Olbricht, owner of me Collectors Room.
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Museums Altes Museum Berlin’s collection of classical antiquities, housed inside a breathtaking Neoclassical building. Take in the mosaic floor of Hadrian’s villa, a wealth of Greek sculptures, and a number of Etruscan and Roman finds. To 18 Jun: Dangerous Perfection: Antique grave-vases from Apulia. Featuring 13 largescale vases from the indigenous population of southern Italy 2,500 years ago. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www. smb.museum. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3
Alte Nationalgalerie
Germany’s colonial past. Daily 10am–6pm. €8/4 (under-18s free). www.dhm.de. Unter den Linden 2. T: 030.203040. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
Deutsches Technikmuseum MUST SEE At the museum for all things technology, the old locomotives and aviation rooms are the most popular attractions, while a Rosinenbomber, a 1948 Berlin Airlift aircraft, is mounted on the museum’s roof. A hands-on section allows kids to conduct experiments. To 4 Apr: From Department Store to Tacheles. Photographs of the Friedrichstraßen-Passage. A photographic documentation of the life of this historic landmark. Mon–Fri 9am–5:30pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €8/4. www.sdtb. de. Trebbiner Str. 9. T: 030.902540. U Möckernbrücke, U Gleisdreieck. E4
A splendorous collection of 19thcentury art. To 12 Mar: An Urban Museum Island is The Gay Museum (Schwules Landscape – A 360º Panorama of situated on the spot Museum) Rome by Friedrich Loos. A cabinet where Berlin was first One of the world’s largest and most created. exhibition of a 19th century city on significant institutions for archiving, the cusp of change. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm researching, and communicating the (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6 history and culture of LGBTQ communities. with exhibition, €10/5 museum only. www.smb. Changing exhibitions take diverse approaches museum. Bodestr. 1–3. T: 030.266424242. S+U to lesbian, gay, transsexual, bisexual, and queer Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3 biographies and concepts in history, art, and culture. To 27 Mar: Change of Scenery 2.0: Rock Bauhaus Archiv Hudson and the AIDS Crisis. An overview of the first The avant-garde building designed by Walter celebrity who brought AIDS to the forefront of Gropius is home to documents, photographs, public discussion. From 17 Feb: Siegfried Wagner: and models illustrating the Bauhaus philosophy, Bayreuth’s ‘Fairy’ Crown Prince. A rare insight into the which combines artistic beauty with architectural life of Siegfried Wagner, which was controversial functionality. To 27 Feb: The Frankfurt Art School and intentionally shrouded in mystery. Sun–Mon, – Modernism on the Main. A focus on the down-toWed–Fri 2–6pm, Thu 2–8pm, Sat 2–7pm. €6/4. earth and practical variety of Bauhaus-influenced www.schwulesmuseum.de. Lützowstr. 73. works. To 27 Feb: Lucia Moholy – The English Years. T: 030.69599050. U Nollendorfplatz. D4 Presenting Moholy’s landscape and architectural photography work. Wed–Mon 10am–5pm. Sat–Mon €8/5, Wed–Fri. €7/4. www.bauhaus.de. Klingelhöferstr. 14. T: 030.25400278. U Nollendorfplatz. D4
Jewish Museum MUST SEE Daniel Libeskind’s architectural jewel, shaped as a deconstructed Star of David, explores millennia of German Jewish history, including the alternating glories and persecutions of the community. To 5 Mar: A Muslim, a Christian and a Jew. Artist Eran Shakine depicts the trio in humorous everyday settings while underscoring their similar hopes and dreams. Daily 10am–8pm, Mon until 10pm. €8/3. www.jmberlin.de. Lindenstr. 9-14. T: 030.25993300. U Hallesches Tor, U Kochstraße. E4
Kupferstichkabinett MUST SEE With a collection begun in 1652 by the Great Elector and works dating back to medieval times, the institute known in English as the Museum of Prints and Drawings boasts 150,000+ pieces, including masterpieces by Botticelli, Dürer, and Goya. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 11am– 6pm. €6/3. www.smb.museum. Matthäikirchplatz. T: 030.266424242. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Martin-Gropius-Bau MUST SEE One of the city’s best art and photography exhibition spaces and an important example of early 20th-century architecture, the imposing building combines Italian Renaissance elements with local features, such as mosaics of allegorical figures. To 5 Mar: Robert Doisneau – Photographs. With just one iconic photograph taken in 1950, Doisneau further established Paris as the city of love. To 12 Mar: Omer Fast: Talking Is Not Always the Solution. Presenting seven of Fast’s works, which question the boundary between an experiencer’s account and the media, fact and fiction. Wed–Mon 10am–7pm. Prices vary by
Bode Museum An extensive collection of Old Masters’ paintings, a section dedicated to ancient coins, and many works of Roman and Byzantine art adorn the museum’s impressive interior, built by Ernst von Ihne in 1904. To 27 May: Art Coins Money: MUSE POWER MONEY examines the interaction between art, money, and power. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.smb. museum. Am Kupfergraben. T: 030.266424242. U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3 Museum-Berlin, Cornelia Schleime, Meine-Hand-ist-deine-Bewegung 2007
installation: © bernd borchardt, olbricht: © jana ebert); Sammlung boros: courtesy of sammluing boros, upper right image © Thomas ruff; lower right: danh vo.
FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT wheretraveler.com
DDR Museum Learn about daily life in the former East Germany at this hands-on museum. Closets filled with GDR (DDR in German) fashion and a Trabant (the GDR car) are just some of the items on display, while photographs illustrate Communist habits, such as collectively potty-training babies or going on nudist holidays. Mon–Sun 10am–8pm, Sat until 10pm. €7/4. www.ddr-museum.de. KarlLiebknecht-Str. 1. T: 030.847123731. S Hackescher Markt, U Alexanderplatz. E3
Deutsches Historisches Museum MUST SEE Learn about the milestones in German history from the Roman occupation of the Germanic areas to the present day. To 26 Feb: Cameroon and Congo – a search of traces and phantom photography from Andréas Lang. To 14 May: German colonialism, Fragments of Its Past and Present confronts the controversial topic of
A Stifling World 2016 recipient of the Hannah-Höch-Preis Cornelia Schleime is a very innovative artist. Originally from East Berlin, Schleime attended Dresden’s Academy of Fine Arts in the late '70s, becoming a part of a collective of young artists that dissented against the restrictive GDR art policy, and eventually causing the government to ban her from exhibiting. When she fled to West Berlin, almost all her work disappeared. Since then, she has recreated and reimaged her pieces as landscapes and large-scale portraits. Her vivid paintings have hints of the fantastic and supernatural and are unapologetically bold. Defiant, in fact, and unsettling. A Blink Of An Eye will be showing at the Berlinische Galerie (p. 39) until 24 April.
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
For Explorers!
exhibition. www.gropiusbau.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 7. T: 030.254860. U Kochstraße. E4
Museum Berggruen MUST SEE A can’t-miss for Picassophiles. The Spanish painter is the star of this Charlottenburg museum, which boasts dozens of rooms filled with his paintings. The collection encompasses 75 years of his life and all of his creative phases. Expanded in 2013, the museum also features many famous works by Matisse, Klee, Giacometti, Van Gogh, Cézanne, and many more. To 12 Mar: George Condo. Confrontation. A retrospective of the American painter’s oeuvre. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm. €10/5. www. smb.museum. Schloßstr. 1. T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3
Museum of Photography
Trebbiner Str. 9, 10963 Berlin www.sdtb.de /deutschestechnikmuseum
Hundreds of listings every month
Diverse and comprehesive exhibitions curated from the Berlin Art Library’s vast photographic collection are housed in a Neoclassical 1909 building built for the Prussian army’s officer corps, whose lower two floors are occupied by the Helmut Newton Foundation. From 17 Feb: ‘The Field Has Eyes…’: Images of the Surveillant Gaze. A presentation of surveillance, from the 16th to 20th century. From 17 Feb: Watching You, Watching Me. A Photographic Response to Surveillance. Raising important questions of the blurred lines between public and private in our surveillance culture. To 14 May: Alice Springs: The MEP Show/Helmut Newton: Yellow Press/Mart Engelen: Portraits. Portraits and street photography from Alice Springs, the widow of Helmut Newton; Helmut Newton’s paparazzi and police photography; and Dutch artist Mart Engelen’s film noir-inspired black-and-white portraits. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.266424242. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3–C4
Museum für Naturkunde Home to the world’s largest dinosaur skeleton, the natural history museum also features extensive collections of shells, insects, and prize-winning mounted animal dioramas. To 30 Jun: 8 Museums 8 Objects presents the fossils and milestones in the research done by the Leibniz research museums. Tue–Fri 9:30–6pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3. www.naturkundemuseum-berlin.de. Invalidenstr. 43. T: 030.20938591. U Naturkundemuseum. E2
Neues Museum MUST SEE The 3300-year-old bust of Queen Nefertiti is the museum’s top attraction. Examine a world-famous Egyptian collection that includes many important papyruses, while hundreds of artifacts relate early human history. Badly damaged during WWII and left abandoned until the 1980s, the museum reopened in 2009. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www. neues-museum.de. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3
©istock
Pergamon Museum
®
Berlin
One of Berlin’s main attractions, the Pergamon houses the outcome of Germany’s early-20thcentury archeology excavations. The imposing Ishtar Gate of Babylon with its glazed blue bricks is a feast for the eyes, as are the Market Gate from Myletus, the reconstructed interiors of an Assyrian palace, and many other splendorous testimonies to the ancient world. The altar room is closed for restoration through 2019. To 2 Apr: The Legacy of the Ancient Kings. Ctesiphon and the Persian Sources of Islamic Art. An exhibition tracing the
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The German Spy Museum Delve into the world of espionage with two floors of interactive exhibits covering some 3500 years of espionage history. Highlights include presentations on James Bond and other famous fictitious spies and a laser maze that tests your agility to break into – or out of – compromising locations. €12/8. Daily 10am-8pm. www.deutschesspionagemuseum.de. Leipziger Platz 9. S+U Potsdamer Platz E3
Art galleries Berlinische Galerie A modern art collection of 5000+ works of German and Eastern European paintings. To 24 Apr: Cornelia Schleime – A Blink explores this year’s Hannah-Höch-Preis winner, whose dissident work in the GDR days resulted in her getting banned from East Berlin. To 24 Apr: Tatjana Doll – New World Atlas presents the Hannah-Höch-Förderpreis winner’s large-scale work that question phenomena in mass culture. From 24 Feb: John Bock. Transcending multiple mediums, Bock’s work celebrates the absurdity in the world. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm. €8/5 (€10/7 during exhibitions). www. berlinischegalerie.de. Alte Jakobstr. 124-128. T: 030.78902600. U Hallesches Tor. E4
perspectives and narratives photography brought to the working-class neighborhood. To 23 Apr: Total Records. Vinyl & Photography. A presentation of album covers, both classic and lesser-known, that have advanced photography as an art form Daily 11am–8pm. €10/5. www.co-berlin.org Hardenbergstr. 22–24. T: 030.28444160. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4
Dalí – The Exhibition The permanent exhibit features more than 400 works, most from private collections, by the Surrealist painter, with a focus on drawing, illustration, and film. Dalí fans explore new perspectives of the artist’s life and work. Daily noon–8pm (Sun from 10am). €12.50. www.daliberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 7. Toll number: 0700.3254237546. U Potsdamer Platz. D3
l museum Internatiotna exhibition permanen
(worth
With an emphasis on paper and photography, the Deutsche Bank’s art collection is a stroll along the timeline of modern art. Every year, the bank pays tribute to young artists by organizing an international prize. To 5 Mar: Bhupen Khakhar: You Can’t Please All. A survey of the courageous and internationally recognized artist from 20th century India. Daily 10am–8pm. €4/3. www.deutsche-bankkunsthalle.de. Unter den Linden 13/15. T: 030.2020930. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
C/O Berlin
Gemäldegalerie – Old Masters Painting Gallery
MUST SEE Contemporary art and photography has finally reopened in the Amerika Haus, which housed the American library during the Cold War era. To 12 Feb: Kreuzberg – Amerika. Workshop for Photography 1976-1986. An exploration of the
MUST SEE One of the finest collections of European art from the 13th to the 18th centuries. Lots of Dutch and Flemish painters, including Rembrandt and Vermeer, and a vast collection of Italian Renaissance art, including Botticelli, Titian,
2,80€)
open daily:
Mon - Sun 12 p.m. - 8 p.m. July + August 10 a.m. - 8 p.m.
Deutsche Bank KunstHalle
(24th December closed)
Potsdamer Platz entrance: Leipziger Platz 7 Hômmage á S. Dalí by DaVial
origins of Islamic art and cultural heritage. www. smb.museum. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3
Infos: 0700 - 325 423 75**| Tickets: www.DaliBerlin.de
(**0,14€/ Min. from a landline, mobile communications vary, max 0,42€/ Min.) *only in combination with the entrance fee. Cannot be combined with other offers. Valid until March, 31st 2017.
With over 450 exhibits from private collections this permanent exhibition provides general insight into Dalí’s virtuous mastery in almost all art techniques in Berlin’s lively city centre.
www.daliberlin.de
Take a walk through
Berlin’s history
With photographers ranging from the unknown to renown, from within Berlin’s Wedding neighborhood to Wyoming, Kreuzberg Amerika at C/O Berlin (this page) showcases some of the most starkly telling photographs of the 1970s and 1980s taken by former members of Germany's famous Werkstatt für Fotografie. This academy provided free education in documentary photography and promoted free expression beyond academic constraints, eventually developing a special artistic dialogue between amateurs and professionals. Investing in artistic connections between the two sides of the Atlantic, the Werkstatt managed to capture the zeitgeist of its era in its full beauty, glory, and ugliness. Until 12 Feb.
©ISTOCK
eilmes 1979, courtesy of C/O berlin.
The Zeitgeist of the ‘70s and ’80
®
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Kieser,
Plakate.
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES 14 OCTOBER 2016 TO 14 MAY 2017
and Canaletto. To 19 Feb: Hieronymus Bosch and His Pictorial World in the 16th and 17th Century. A celebration of Bosch’s 500 years of lasting influence, featuring originals, copies, and work that was inspired by his. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb. museum. Matthäikirchplatz 50. T: 030.266424242. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Georg-Kolbe-Museum An idyllic garden houses the former studio of German Secessionist artist Georg Kolbe, who used the human body as an expression of the human spirit, challenging the role of sculpture as a representation of mythological or heroic symbolism. The museum displays a wide selection of works and hosts frequent exhibitions. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3. www.georg-kolbe-museum.de. Sensburger Allee 25. T: 030.3042144. S Heerstraße. Off Map
GERMAN COLONIALISM
Hamburger Bahnhof The permanent collection of this former railway station includes a selection of works from the Friedrich Christian Flick Collection, and the many temporary exhibitions focus on painting and sculpture from the past 50 years, as well as videos, music, and design. From 24 Feb: Adrian Piper. The Probable Trust Registry: The Rules of the Game #1-3. An intimately interactive installation of promises and principles. To 26 Feb: Ernst Ludwig Kirchner. Hieroglyphics. Hieroglyphic paintings as a sign of expressionism. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €14/7. www. hamburgerbahnhof.de. Invalidenstr. 50-51. T: 030.266424242. U Naturkundemuseum, S Hauptbahnhof. D2
Helmut Newton Foundation
FRAGMENTS PAST AND PRESENT Unter den Linden 2 · 10117 Berlin · daily 10am to 6pm www.dhm.de
A world of exhibitions
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Before dying in a car accident on Sunset Boulevard in 2004, the art photographer donated all of his work to his hometown of Berlin. Best known for his nude photography of American stars, Newton now has an entire museum dedicated to his oeuvre. To 14 May: Alice Springs: The MEP Show/Helmut Newton: Yellow Press/Mart Engelen: Portraits. Tue–Sun 10am– 6pm, Thu until 8pm. €10/5. www.helmutnewton. com. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.31864856. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3
11.01.17 13:49
me Collectors Room Thomas Olbricht created this space to bring together other international art collectors and to organize exhibitions, workshops, and concerts. The upper floor houses his “cabinet of curiosities.” To 2 Apr: My Abstract World. Tue–Sun noon–6pm. €7/4. www.me-berlin.com. Auguststr. 68. T: 030.86008510. S Oranienburger Straße. E2
©istock
Commercial Galleries Kuckei + Kuckei, to 4 Mar: Gerhard Winkler: Here Comes the Night 1999 – 2016. Linienstr. 158 and Linienstr. 107/108. www.kuckei-kuckei.de; Galerie Sievi, to 4 Mar: Steffa Reis, Yvon Labarre. Gneisenaustr. 112. www.galerie-sievi.de; Mianki. Gallery, to 18 Mar: Jakob Kupfer. Kalckreuthstr. 15. www.mianki.com; Galerie Robert Morat, to 25 Mar: Henrik Spohler: In Between. www.robertmorat. de; Galerie Deschler, to 11 Mar: Patricia Waller, Yukiko Terada, Seet van Hout, Faig Ahmed, Victoria Martini: Handmade By. Auguststr. 61. www.deschlerberlin.de; Galerie Gilla Lörcher – Contemporary Art, to 17 Mar: Bettina Sellmann: Solo Show. Pohlstr. 73. www.galerie-loercher.de.
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DINING | THE GUIDE
Sweets For My Sweet Dessert is not just a special treat – it’s a part of any well-balanced diet, Hilda Hoy believes. Don’t miss these favorite sweet spots, perfect for Valentine’s Day and every other day, too. A friend of mine has a magnet on her fridge featuring a memorable quote: “Life is uncertain. Eat dessert first.” And why ever not? Dessert is not only the perfect finale to a satisfying meal, it’s also a way to treat ourselves at any time of day. Or, as Coda Dessert Bar shows, dessert can even be the main feature all by itself. Coda (Friedelstr. 47, www.coda-berlin.com) is one of Berlin’s most exciting recent restaurant openings. In a corner of Neukölln better known for its hip bars than its gastronomy, Coda is making a big impact with its understated chic and ambitious culinary concept. At the core of the concept are dessert and cocktail pairings, which can be ordered à la carte or as part of a deluxe menu of up to six courses. The dishes themselves may challenge you to broaden your dessert horizons, balancing a variety of salty and savory flavors such as goat’s cheese
and beet with more typical ingredients like dark chocolate and pistachios. In my dish, mascarpone cream was plated with yellow tomato confit and tomato sorbet and dotted with cubes of gingerbread, with a bourbonhazelnut-coriander cocktail to match. Co-founder René Frank is a distinguished pâtissier with years of Michelin Star-caliber experience, and every one of his creations here not only look like works of art, they’re also a delight for the senses. Make sure to order some of the crispy, caramel-kissed pork rinds to snack on, flavored with just a whisper of Chinese five-spice powder. When it comes to the art of fine desserts and
beautiful pastry confections, there’s no country more renowned than France, and rightly so. To find all the luscious éclairs, perfect little tarts, cannelés, luxuriously flaky millefeuilles, and exquisite macarons that will make your heart go pitter-patter, head to Mitte’s Du Bonheur (Brunnenstr. 39, www. dubonheur.de). Anna Plagens, the master behind the shop’s creations, learned her craft in renowned confectioneries in Paris and Vienna before setting up her own shop here in Berlin. Grab a seat to enjoy a few of her creations with a café au lait, but make sure to get a few macarons packed up to go as well, because I guarantee you’ll be craving them.
du bonheur: courtesy of du bonheur; Aubergine dessert and liquid nitrogen preparation: © ett la benn; bottles and dessert: © maximilian carlo schmidt.
Clockwise from this image: Aubergine dessert from Coda; liquid nitrogen preparation at Coda: one of Coda's delicious desserts; homemade ginger beer. Inset, below: a tray of macarons at Du Bonheur.
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DINING KEY Alc (à la carte): Prices are per person for three courses (excl. drinks) €: under €15. €€: €15–€40. €€€: €40–€80. €€€€: over €80. Restaurants listed in Fine Dining have at least one Michelin star. Letter/ number codes correspond to map at back of book.
W I RT S H AU S BERLIN
Recommended by Die Goldenen Schlüssel Deutschland e.V./U.I.C.H. Les Clefs d’Or.
FINE DINING For a complete list of Berlin's Michelin-starred restaurants, visit wheretraveler.com/berlin.
5 – Cinco by Paco Pérez Catalan star chef Paco Pérez’s very first endeavor outside Spain is this Michelin-starred restaurant in Das Stue Hotel. His aim is to tickle all five senses with avant-garde taste experiences that take full advantage of the flavors and ingredients of his home country. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.5-cinco.com. Drakestr. 1. T: 030.3117220. S Tiergarten. C3
Facil Situated in a glass atrium of The Mandala Hotel and ringed by the courtyard’s trees, Facil has mastered understated elegance in both its décor and cuisine. Double-Michelin-starred chef Michael Kempf is particularly masterful with seafood when creating his fine menus. €€€€. Mon–Fri L&D. www.facil.de. Potsdamer Str. 3. T: 030.590051234. S Potsdamer Platz. D3
Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 30 10178 Berlin Tel.: 030 679665520
www.berlin-hofbraeu.de
Fischers Fritz Pure, straightforward luxury is the formula at this restaurant in the Regent Berlin Hotel. One of just a handful of Berlin restaurants to earn two Michelin stars, Fischers Fritz will not fail to impress with its elevated cuisine and finely honed service. €€€€. Daily B, humuD. www.fischersfritzberlin.com. Charlottenstr. 49. T: 030.20336363. U Französische Straße. E3
Horváth Austria-born chef Sebastian Frank built a reputation – and earned a Michelin star – with his highly creative, oftentimes minimalist use of seasonal ingredients, from sunchokes to candied parsley root to spruce needles. Wooden interior and lovely outdoor patio. €€€. Wed–Sun D. www.restaurant-horvath.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 44a. T: 030.61289992. U Kottbusser Tor. F4
BOTTLES AND DESSERT: © MAXIMILIAN CARLO SCHMIDT.
Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer The Hotel Adlon restaurant boasts two Michelin stars and a well-earned spot in the upper echelon of Berlin’s finest restaurants. No detail is spared in the creation of an unforgettable dining experience, presided over by chef Hendrik Otto. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.lorenzadlon-esszimmer.de. Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2661196. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3
Pauly Saal The chic, hip décor is matched by a menu of equally creative German cuisine, which was awarded a Michelin star in 2013. Meat dishes made from local game are a highlight. €€€. Daily L&D, closed Sun. www.paulysaal.com. Auguststr. 11–13. T: 030.33006070. S Oranienburger Straße. E2
Reinstoff Chef Daniel Achilles didn’t earn two Michelin stars by playing it safe. The two nightly dinner menus
Experience selected Szechuan and Cantonese foods in modern ambience try our special Peking duck
Am Kupfergraben 4 / 4A 10117 Berlin daily opened 12:00-23:00
Reservation: 030 - 200 595 00 www.restaurant-jolly.de www.wheretraveler.com 43
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DINING
RESTAURANT | BAR | CLUB | EVENTS
at Reinstoff – one focused on regional tastes, the other incorporating influences from farther afield – are successful experiments in exciting, avantgarde cuisine. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.reinstoff.eu. Schlegelstr. 26c. T: 030.30881214. U Naturkundemuseum, S Nordbahnhof. E2
Rutz Wine bar, wine shop, and restaurant in one, Rutz offers perfectly paired meals by Chef Marco Müller, whose six-, eight-, and 10-course “Inspiration Menus” combine simple yet diverse ingredients into creative taste sensations. €€€€. Tue–Sun D. www.rutz-weinbar.de. Chausseestr. 8. T: 030.24628760. U Oranienburger Tor. E4
Tim Raue From his humble beginnings growing up in Kreuzberg, Tim Raue has become one of the bestknown culinary names in Berlin. Plumbing the Far East for inspiration, his namesake restaurant serves refined interpretations of Asian cuisine, such as his famed personal take on Peking duck. €€€€. Tue–Sun L&D. www.tim-raue.com. Rudi-DutschkeStr. 26. T: 030.25937930. U Kochstraße. E4
Open daily: Monday to Friday: 12.00 - 23.00 CET Saturday and Sunday: 18.00 - 23.00 CET Make your Reservation: Tel. 030 / 278 909 95 55 www.the-grand-berlin.com
CHARLOTTENBURG– WILMERSDORF Café Wintergarten im Literaturhaus German/Austrian. Classic elegance permeates the high-ceilinged rooms of this café, reminiscent of turn-of-the-century literary salons. Snag a table in the greenhouse-like vestibule, or settle down by one of the grand windows to enjoy breakfast, bistro-style meals, or a glass of wine. €. Daily B, L, D. www.literaturhaus-berlin.de. Fasanenstr. 23. T: 030.8825414. U Uhlandstraße. C4
Duke Restaurant French. The Ellington Hotel’s signature restaurant is
SEXY VALENTINE’S DAY with Irina von Bentheim
all about French haute cuisine with modern, creative twists. Both the à la carte options and the menu of monthly specials illustrate the restaurant’s dedication to top-quality best meat, seafood, and regional produce. €€€. Mon–Sat L&D. www.duke-restaurant. com. Nürnberger Str. 50-55. T: 030.683154000. U Augsburger Straße. C4
Glass Mediterranean. A 2013 addition to the west-end gourmet scene, Glass is the baby of Israeli chef Gal Ben Moshe. Guests in the sleek, modern space get wowed with an innovative tasting menu that changes daily and the show-stopping “Candy Box” dessert, which includes a chocolate mousse frozen tableside with liquid nitrogen. €€€. Daily D, closed Sun–Mon. www.glassberlin.de. Uhlandstr. 195. T: 030.54710861. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3
Tuesday, 14.02.2017 | Start 07.00 pm
Kushinoya
Enjoy a sensuous and inspiring event for two. The team from the Restaurant DUKE will serve you a stimulating four-course dinner. Between courses, Irina von Bentheim – the most erotic voice in Germany and the voice actor for Carrie Bradshaw (Sex and the City) – will read romantic stories (in German).
Japanese. This upscale Japanese restaurant makes
Price: EUR 79.00 per person excluding corresponding wines Price: EUR 109.00 per person including corresponding wines RESTAURANT DUKE @ ELLINGTON HOTEL BERLIN +49 (0)30 68 315-4000 | CONTACT@DUKE-RESTAURANT.COM | NÜRNBERGER STRASSE 50-55 | 10789 BERLIN | GERMANY
WWW.DUKE-RESTAURANT.COM / HIGHLIGHTS & SPECIALS
fried finger-food taste gourmet. The specialty is kushiage, skewers of delicate morsels like steak cubes, quail eggs, or shiitake mushroom caps that are lightly breaded and fried using a special nongreasy technique. www.kushinoya.de. Bleibtreustr. 6. T: 030.31809897. S Savignyplatz. B4
Lamazère Brasserie French. Proof that fine dining needn’t break the
bank is Lamazère Brasserie, a much-lauded dining spot that earned “Bib Gourmand” status in the revered Michelin Guide, a category commending great food at good value. The three-course dinner menu for €35 will allow you to sample various French food musts, like oeufs cocotte baked eggs,
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charcuterie platters, duck confit, beef tartare, and tarte tatin for dessert. Whatever the kitchen has cooking that night, every delicacy has that je ne sas quoi that has made French cuisine so famous. €€€. Tue-Sun D. www.lamazere.de. Stuttgarter Platz 18. T: 030.31800712. S Charlottenburg. B4
Wilson's – The Prime Rib Restaurant American. Juicy, high-quality meats cooked the American way and served with salads, potatoes and extravagant desserts. €€€. www.restaurant-wilsons. de. Crowne Plaza Berlin City Centre. Nürnberger Str. 65. T: 030.21007000. U Augsburger Straße. C4
FINE DINING AT IT’S BEST TRADITION IN PROGRESS
Zwölf Apostel Italian. The interior of this Charlottenburg restaurant is frescoed like a Renaissance church, and the famed pizzas are named after each of Jesus’s twelve apostles. The thin-crust, wood-fired pizzas are sinfully delicious, as are the other Italian menu items. Second location: Georgenstr. 2, Mitte. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.12-apostel.de. Bleibtreustr. 49. T: 030.31 21433. S Savignyplatz. B4
FRiedrichshain Matreshka Russian. Simple, homey Russian fare. Borscht, meatstuffed pelmeni dumplings and their vegetarian equivalent, vareniky, a selection of Georgian wines, and, of course, plenty of vodka. €. Daily L&D. Boxhagener Str. 60. T: 0163.9870767. S Ostkreuz. H3
Transit Asian Fusion. The long menu of tapas-style
Thai and Indonesian dishes, each just a few euros, allows diners to cobble together a meal encompassing a wide range of tastes and ingredients. Second location in Mitte at Rosenthaler Str. 68. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.transitrestaurants.com. Sonntagstr. 28. T: 030.26948415. S Ostkreuz. Off Map
Alt-Moabit 141, 10557 Berlin
(you will find us near Ministry of the Interior, chancellery and Berlin central station)
reservation +49 (0)30-394 20 81 +49 (0)177-394 20 80 Open mon–sat from 6 pm / closed on Sundays / lunchtime mon–fri 12 am–3 pm www.paris-moskau.de · restaurant@paris-moskau.de
the prime rib restaurant
Kreuzberg Hasir Turkish. The little Turkish grill house rumored to be the birthplace of the döner kebab in the 1970s has since expanded to six locations around the city. The original restaurant, near Kottbusser Tor, is a very popular spot for trying the full spectrum of what Turkish cuisine has to offer – far beyond the kebab. €€. Daily L&D. www.hasir.de. Adalbertstr. 10. T: 030.6142373. U Kottbusser Tor. F4
Kimchi Princess Korean. “Let them eat kimchi,” implores the website
for this hip, popular Korean restaurant. The house specialty is the meaty tabletop barbecue to be split between two or more diners, which comes with all the traditional side dishes including, of course, kimchi. €€. Daily D. www.kimchiprincess.com. Skalitzer Str. 36. T: 0163.4580203. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. F4
Spindler & Klatt Asian-European fusion. Restaurant, lounge, and club in one, Spindler & Klatt makes full use of its prime river location. In the summer, the waterside terrace is a memorable spot to enjoy the menu of Pan-Asian dishes, from fine sushi to sizzling tuna steaks and dry-aged Irish steaks hot off the grill. Even in colder months, the chic, post-industrial interior – built in the 1800s as an army bakery – is unforgettable too. On Fridays and Saturdays, the spot transforms into a club from 23pm. €€€. Daily D.
Our focus is the U.S.-Prime Rib, which is cut from the core of lean prime rib. Other classics of the upscale U.S. kitchen can be also enjoyed.
IT`S PRIME TIME in Crowne Plaza Berlin City Centre Nürnberger Straße 65 · 10787 Berlin T: +49 30 2100 7000 info@restaurant-wilsons.de www.restaurant-wilsons.de www.wheretraveler.com 45
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DINING www.spindlerklatt.com. Köpenicker Str. 16–17. T: 030 319881860. U Schlesisches Tor. G4
com. Hirtenstraße 4. T: 030.278909555. U RosaLuxemburg-Platz. F2
Mitte
Hofbräuhaus
Borchardt German/French. A favorite hobnobbing spot
of the rich and famous, Borchardt is popular for both its food (especially the schnitzel) as well as the opportunity to see and be seen. €€. Daily L&D. www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Französische Str. 47. T: 030.81886262. U Französische Straße. E3
Cookies Cream Vegetarian. A whole new kind of vegetarian
dining. First, there’s getting there, which feels more like going to an underground club than a restaurant. Then there’s the food, vegetarian eating gone haute cuisine, thanks to celebrity chef Stephan Hentschel. €€–€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.cookiescream.com. Behrenstr. 55. T: 030.27492940. U Französische Straße. E3
The Grand German. The sophisticated supper club, with origins reaching back to 1842, boasts an American grill that makes its international array of steaks among the best in town. The upstairs lounge (and, in particular, its cocktails) attracts a decadent late-night scene. €€€. Mon–Fri L, Daily D. www.the-grand-berlin.
German. An Oktoberfest atmosphere for the whole family 365 days a year. This restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner in typical Bavarian style, alongside live music, waiters in traditional costume, and the traditional Hofbräu beer, brewed in Munich since the 1700s. Expect dumplings and roasted ham hock at their popular Sunday brunch. €. www. hofbraeu-wirtshaus.de. Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 30. T: 030 679665520. S+U Alexanderplatz. F2
Hummus & Friends Israeli. Creamy, rich, and fluffy hummus with warm pita bread might just be Israel’s national dish, and with the opening of Hummus & Friends, it’s easy to get in the German capital too. Also on the menu are fresh, colorful salads and side dishes like roasted whole cauliflower with tahini sauce. The bar even serves kosher Israeli wine. €. Daily L&D. www. hummus-and-friends.com. Oranienburger Str. 27. T: 030.55471454. S Oranienburger Straße. F2
Jolly Chinese. Just across the water from Museum Island, Jolly’s location couldn’t be better for a tasty Chinese meal in between sightseeing stops. Bring an appetite to try as many of the steamed dim sum dumplings as possible before moving on to the menu’s extensive
Richard’s Riches Berlin is filled with many special little corners, so it’s not every day that a restaurant interior can take your breath away from the first glance. But Richard is undeniably stunning, bringing together a grand mid-1800s space – featuring carved wooden ceilings and stained-glass windows – with contemporary design accents such as glass globe chandeliers and striking modern art. (For more about the story behind Richard and its creator, turn to page 58 for our interview with founder Hans Richard.) The restaurant, which earned its first Michelin star in 2015, does its own understated, refined take on French cuisine, changing the menu monthly to take advantage of the bounty of the season. I can’t decide what I enjoyed the most: the perfectly seared scallop on a puddle of parsnip puree; the tender, medium-rare venison plated with roast chicory and crunchy toasted quinoa; the coconut mousse with saffron-scented pineapple wedges; or simply the classy art-filled scenery. Luckily I don’t have to choose, because an evening at Richard has it all – memorable food and location both. On weekends, there’s only one seating per evening, the aim being to create a relaxed atmosphere, with diners lounging late into the night on the plush banquettes. – Hilda Hoy Köpenicker Str. 174. T: 030 49207242. www.restaurant-richard.de
variety of Sichuan-style and Cantonese dishes. Traditional Peking duck is the house specialty. €€. Daily L and D. www.restaurant-jolly.de. Am Kupfergraben 4/4A. T: 030.20059500. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
Käfer Dachgarten-Restaurant of the German Bundestag German. The Reichstag is for more than sightseeing. Thanks to the culinary team behind Käfer, it’s also a fine dining destination. On the roof of the famed landmark, Käfer boasts splendid views and refined, modern German cuisine. Advance reservations required. Due to security precautions, each guest must provide official photo I.D. upon entry. €€€. Daily B, L, D. www.feinkost-kaefer.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030 2262990. U Bundestag, S Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3.
Maximilians German. Maximilians recreates the feel of a cozy Bavarian beer hall with hearty food and plentiful beer to match. Meaty specialties include pork knuckle served with dumplings and sauerkraut, freshly baked pretzels, and the tempting “Munich sausage parade.” From the four kinds of Paulaner beer on tap to the warm hospitality, Maximilians goes to great lengths to transport a piece of Bavaria to the heart of Mitte. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.maximiliansrestaurant.de. Friedrichstr. 185–190. T: 030.20450559. U Stadtmitte. E3
Nante Eck German. With delightful dishes from Berlin’s
traditional cuisine and a menu that changes every month, the Nante Eck restaurant offers a refined cuisine made with fresh local ingredients. Specialties include extra-big currywurst with potato and cucumber salad and Flammkuchen pies. Very long beer menu. €. Daily L&D in summer. www.nante-eck.de. Unter den Linden 35. T: 030.22487257. U Französische Straße. F2
Prenzlauer Berg Aapka Indian. Experience an authentic culinary trip through India. Depending on your level of spice tolerance, their menu offers a variety of fragrant curries, biryani rice, and Tandoori-grilled dishes, including plenty of vegetarian options and traditional breads. The Thali platters and cocktail happy hour are also very popular. €. Daily L&D. www.aapka.de. Kastanienallee 50. T: 030.44010494. U Senefelderplatz. F2
Italian. The atmosphere in this pizza hall is raucous and the service notoriously surly, but that doesn’t keep the pizza-loving crowds at bay. The generously sized and traditional-style thin-crust concoctions are famed around the city. €. Daily L&D. Schönhauser Allee 12. T: 030.44017333. U Senefelderplatz. F2
Tiergarten Paris-Moskau German/French. This rustic house, built in 1898 and lucky to survive two world wars, was a Russian restaurant in two of its past lives. Today, it seamlessly incorporates French, Russian, and German cuisines. €€€. Daily D. www.paris-moskau. de. Alt-Moabit 141. T: 030.3942081. S+U Hauptbahnhof. D3 Kurfürstenstr. 58. T: 030.26391918. U Nollendorfplatz. D4
photo courtesy of restaurant richard.
I Due Forni
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THE GUIDE | ENTERTAINMENT
I Like To Be In America! Fischer mit orchester, photo by marco borggreve; Frank zappa, Courtesy of the Archives of the Zappa Family Trust, Yellow Shark.
Solveig Steinhardt is ready for ten days of American groove. Music is certainly one of the US's best products – along with the Grand Canyon and Lucky Charms, if you ask me. From jazz, blues, and Broadway musicals to rock'n'roll and film music, the US has been feeding the world rhythm and poetry for more than a century. This month, Konzerthaus Berlin will be presenting ten days of American sounds with a vast program touching all of the most important milestones in American musical culture. The busy New York City streets of the early 1900s are probably the most iconic image of the American melting pot, and nobody has captured the city's soundscapes better than George Gershwin. With his combination of jazz and classical, Gershwin was able to represent the raucous streets of Manhattan in sound form. From 16 to 18 February, pianist and conductor Wayne Marshall and the Konzerthausorchester will be performing some of the composer's most popular pieces
along with songs by another American master, Leonard Bernstein, who used the Broadway musical to depict the America of the 1950s. Be prepared for tunes such as I Got Rhythm, The Man I Love, New York Rhapsody, and Some Other Time. Those who just can't get enough of New York should also pick one of the Rush Hour Concerts, held every day at 6pm. Taking place in a more informal setting with a café-style table arrangement, the concert series offers a lively musical break from your sightseeing, and features more of Gershwin's fabulous New World music. And what would America be without animation? As special effects get more and more impressive every year, we should not
forget the importance of these films' soundtracks, often Oscar- or Grammy-winning. On 19 February, take your kids to the PIXAR concert for a couple of hours of popular songs from animated pictures such as Finding Nemo, Robots, Ratatouille, and more. Lovers of Frank Zappa, the self-taught genius of American rock, should not miss the Ensemble Modern's orchestra interpretation of songs from his two albums The Yellow Shark and Greggery Peccary and Other Persuasions, on 22 February. But the festival's real highlight is without a doubt Dee Dee Bridgewater, queen of jazz and soul since the 1960s. The Grammy winner will be at Konzerthaus on 25 February only, with a program of popular songs for all to enjoy. www.wheretraveler.com 47
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Entertainment
Ballet & Opera Deutsche Oper A 1960s décor-free box of acoustic magic. Director and conductor Donald Runnicles puts together rich programs with lots of Verdi, Rossini, and Mozart. 2, 5 Feb: Lohengrin (Wagner). 4 Feb: Die Hugenotten (Meyerbeer). 12 Feb: Tannhäuser und der Sängerkrieg auf Wartburg (Wagner). 13, 18 Feb: Madama Butterfly (Puccini). 23 Feb: Faust (Gounod). 25 Feb: Cosí Fan Tutte (Mozart). T: 030.34384343. U Deutsche Oper. B3
Barenboim’s perfect productions range from Baroque operas to contemporary premieres. 9 Feb: Die Zauberflöte (Mozart). 10, 12, 17, 19 Feb: Tosca (Puccini). 11, 15, 24 Feb: La Bohème (Puccini). 16 Feb: Die Zauberflöte (Mozart). 26 Feb: Tannhäuser (Wagner). www.staatsoper-berlin.de. T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3
Classical Concerts Chamber Music Hall of the Philharmonie
Part of the Philharmonie, this concert hall presents daily chamber-music concerts and Komische Oper free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays. Young and daring opera productions Philharmoniker (cond. John Adams). won this theater the title of Opera 15 Feb: Orchestra Academy of the House of the Year 2013. Australian Berliner Philharmoniker in Carte intendant Barrie Kosky is also the Blanche – free concert. 16 Feb: artistic director of some of the David Bowie, Iggy Pop, The Freiburger Barockorchester performances, with mesmerizing and Depeche Mode (cond. van der Gotz) performs results. 2, 11 Feb: Die Perlen der recorded some of their Bach. 19 Feb: Andras Schiff (piano) Cleopatra (Straus). 3, 5, 15, 17 Feb: greatest hits in performs Bach, Bartók, Schumann. Les Contes d'Hoffmann (Offenbach). Berlin. 25 Feb: Orchestra Academy of the 4, 8, 19 Feb: Petruschka/L'enfant et Les Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Ton Sortilèges (Strawinsky/Ravel). 14, 24 Feb: Koopman) plays Bach, Haydn, Schubert. 26 Die Zauberflöte (Mozart). 18, 28 Feb: My Fair Feb: Nobujuki Tsujii (piano) plays Bach, Mozart, Lady (Loewe). 23, 27 Feb: Ball im Savoy (Abraham). Beethoven. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de. www.komische-oper-berlin.de. Behrensstr. 55-57. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. T: 030.47997400. U Französische Straße. E3 S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Staatsballett
Berlin’s ballet company currently performs at various locations. 3, 10, 11 Feb: Maillot/Millepied at Deutsche Oper. 18, 25 Feb: Onegin at Staatsoper im Schiller Theater. 20, 22 Feb: Onegin at Staatsoper im Schiller Theater. www.staatsballettberlin.de. T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3
Staatsoper im Schiller Theater While its home on Unter den Linden gets revamped, the Staatsoper has temporarily moved all performances to the Schiller Theater. Daniel
Konzerthaus This charismatic 1821 concert hall is the base theater of the Konzerthausorchester, but other orchestras and soloists grace its stage regularly. 1 Feb: Verdi's Stiffelio, semi-scenic version. 7 Feb: The Staatskapelle Berlin (cond. Barenboim) performs Mozart and Beethoven. 9 Feb: Dvorak's Stabat Mater. 10 Feb: Comedian Harmonists today. 11, 12 Feb: Konzerthausorchester Berlin, (cond. Schonwandt) performs Mozart and Sibelius. 16–18 Feb: Konzerthausorchester
Triple Englishness
Enjoy Berlin’s widest range of undubbed English versions all-day at CineStar Original and see undubbed versions of documentaries and blockbusters at IMAX as well – on Berlin’s largest screen! Our tip: Every first Tuesday of the month Sneak-previews in original version with german subtitles at KulturBrauerei. More info and tickets at cinestar.de
More Than Meets The Eye In this day and age of dazzling Hollywood special effects, The Illusionists prove that some of the best magic tricks happen live in front of our eyes. At the beginning of February, nine of the world’s most skilled illusionists bring their Broadway performance to Berlin’s Admiralpast to deliver a series of surreal, breathtaking performances, from reading the minds of audience members to Houdini-esque escapes from the most impossible situations. To 5 February at Admiralspalast. www.the-illusionists.de
The illusionists, courtesy of live nation.
at CineStar Original, IMAX, and KulturBrauerei!
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The illusionists, courtesy of live nation.
Berlin, (cond. Marshall) performs Gershwin and Bernstein. 19 Feb: Pixar in concert. 22 Feb: Ensemble Modern plays Frank Zappa. 24-26 Feb: Konzerthausorchester (cond. Ivan Fischer). 25 Feb: Dee Dee Bridgewater. www. konzerthaus.de. Gendarmenmarkt. T: 030.203092101. U Hausvogteiplatz. E3
Philharmonie The iconic concert venue is home to the acclaimed Berliner Philharmoniker, currently led by Sir Simon Rattle, but also hosts other ensembles and soloists. Free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays 1pm. 6 Feb: The Staatskapelle Berlin (cond. Barenboim) performs Mozart, Beethoven, Berg. 10–12 Feb: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Sir Simon Rattle Conductor) perform works by Rihm, Ligeti and Mahler. 17–19 Feb: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Sir Simon Rattle) perform Ligeti and Leenaars. 24–25 Feb: The Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin (cond. Neeme Järvi) performs Beethoven and Strauss. 28 Feb: The NHK Symphony Orchestra Tokyo (cond. Paavo Järvi), works by Mozart and Mahler. www.berlinerphilharmoniker.de. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Movie Theaters CinemaxX Potsdamer Platz
TICKET-HOTLINE
Multiplex cinema. Most of the movies are screened in their original language, with or without subtitles. www.cinemaxx.de. Potsdamer Str. 5. T: 040.80806969. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
030 · 20 30 9 2101 PROGRAM AND MORE
konzerthaus.de/festival-usa
Cinestar Sony Center The latest Hollywood blockbusters, in English, every day. www.cinestar.de. Potsdamer Str. 4. T: 030.26066400. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Odeon
PRESENTED BY
POWERED BY
This old-school single-screen cinema was Berlin’s first English-language theater and still screens both cult movies and new releases. Hauptstr. 116. T: 030.78704019. U Rathaus Schöneberg, S Schöneberg. C5
Zoo Palast The historic seat of the Berlinale is situated near the Zoologischer Garten station and now offers English-language screenings of the latest blockbusters. www.zoopalast-berlin.de Hardenbergplatz 8. T: 030.254010. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4
Rock, Pop, Jazz A-Trane Since 1992, this intimately sized but important venue (it was named Best German Jazzclub in 2011) has welcomed both emerging and A-list talent, including Wynton Marsalis, Herbie Hancock, and Diana Krall. Daily from 8pm, free entry Sunday after 10:30pm. www.a-trane.de. Pestalozzistr. 105. T: 030.3132550. S Savignyplatz. B3/B4
B Flat Jazz Club Small jazz bands play almost every night at this bar. Free jam sessions every Wednesday. www.b-flatberlin.de. Dircksenstr. 40. T: 030.2833123. S+U Alexanderplatz. F2
Columbiahalle/C-Halle
FROM 25 FEBRUARY
The multi-function event space hosts some of today’s most popular pop and rock acts. www.columbia-theater.de. Columbiadamm 13-21. T: 030.69812814. U Platz der Luftbrücke. E5 www.wheretraveler.com 49
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ENTERTAINMNET
on this month THEATER, MUSICALS & DANCE BLUE MAN GROUP Bluemax Theater, all month
UNDERART Chamäleon Theater, until 19 Feb
THE ONE: GRAND SHOW Friedrichstadt-Palast, all month
SCOTCH AND SODA Chamäleon Theater, from 25 Feb
CHINESE NATIONAL CIRCUS Tempodrom, 12 Feb
The best events in town
THE ILLUSIONISTS Admiralspalast, 1-5 Feb
NIGHT OF THE DANCE Tempodrom, 17 Feb
SEMIYANIKI, CLOWN CIRCUS Tipi am Kanzleramt, all month
BALLET & CLASSICAL GERSHWIN AND BERNSTEIN Konzerthaus 16–18 Feb ©ISTOCK
COSÌ FAN TUTTE Deutsche Oper, 25 Feb
ANDRAS SCHIFF Chamber Music Hall, 19 Feb
®
Berlin
DIE ZAUBERFLÖTE Komische Oper, 14, 24 Feb
Scotch and soda, courtesy of CHamäleon Theater, photo by Sean Young.
Music meets circus in Scotch and Soda, the new show at Chamäleon Theater.
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Scotch and soda, courtesy of CHamäleon Theater, photo by Sean Young.
ENTERTAINMENT Estrel Festival Center Berlin Enjoy an evening with the world’s top look-andsound-alike artists and taste a three-course dinner during Stars In Concert, a live performance of legends like Elvis, Abba, Johnny Cash, Buddy Holly, and more. www.stars-in-concert.de. Wed– Sat 8:30pm, Sun 7pm. Sonnenallee 225. Off Map
Lido A former cinema turned club and concert venue for rock-indie lovers. Check website for program. www.lido-berlin.de. Cuvrystr. 7. T: 030.69566840. U Schlesisches Tor. G4
Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin A massive arena for world-touring pop concerts and sports events, including those of Berlin’s professional ice hockey team, the Eisbären. 4, 5 Feb: Night of the Jumps. 10 Feb: ISTAF indoor. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin. de. Mühlenstr. 12–30. T: 030.2060708899. U Warschauer Straße. G4
Tipi am Kanzleramt
Friedrichstr. 107. T: 030.23262326. U Friedrichstraße. E3
Quatsch Comedy Club This popular club hosts frequent stand-up comedy shows and a regular English-language night. www.quatschcomedyclub.de. Friedrichstr. 107. Toll number: 01806.999000969. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
Schaubühne A popular West Berlin theater in the 1960 and 1970s, this Ku’damm performance venue still hosts some interesting productions. Check website for program. www.schaubuehne.de. Kurfürstendamm 153. U Adenauerplatz. C4
The big tent in the Tiergarten has a vast program of musicals, magic, cabaret, dance, and theater. Many shows are in German. 7–25 Feb: Semianyki, Clown Theatre from St. Petersburg. www.tipi-amkanzleramt.de. Große Querallee. T: 030.39066550. U Bundestag. D3
Wintergarten Varieté This sumptuous variety theater that has earned a reputation for its revitalized Vaudeville-inspired productions, as well as world-famous acts. www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Potsdamer Str. 96. T: 030.588433. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D4
Tempodrom This large concert building resembling a circus tent – and situated on the former grounds of the now-gone Anhalter Bahnhof – hosts an array of events, from classical concerts and pop-rock productions to mixed martial arts and dance. 12 Feb: Der große Chinesische Nationalcircus. 17 Feb: Night of the Dance. 20 Feb: Apocalyptica plays Metallica By Four Cellos. www.tempodrom. de. Möckernstr. 10. Toll number: 0186.554111. S Anhalter Bahnhof. E4
Theater, Cabaret & Musicals Admiralspalast One of Berlin’s few preserved pre-WWII variety venues offers an international, high-caliber program of musicals, cabaret, and concerts in an elegant hall from the 1920s. 1–5 Feb: The Illusionists. www.admiralspalast.de. Friedrichstr. 101. T: 030.47997499. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
Bar Jeder Vernunft A 1912 tent housing song-and-dance shows, comedy, and cabaret. Many shows in German only. www.bar-jeder-vernunft.de. Schaperstr. 24. T: 030.8831582. U Spichernstraße. C4
Blue Man Group The unmistakable Blue Man Group has its own permanent theater, the Bluemax Theater, where the blue-domed performers present an energetic combination of music, art, pantomime, and comedy. The few spoken words are in English. Shows take place almost every night. Check website for info. www.stage-entertainment.de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Chamäleon Variete An old ballroom where it is not unusual to see trapeze artists, jugglers, tap dancers, and cabaret singers. Until 19 Feb: Underart, a new circus performance by CirkusCirkör. From 25 Feb: Scotch and Soda. Cirus, Jazz, served straight up! www. chamaeleonberlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 40/41. T: 030.4000590. S Hackescher Markt. E2
February 07 to 25
Friedrichstadt-Palast Special effects, glitzy Vegas-style live show productions at this modern theater. All month: The One, Grand Show, a dreamlike journey through time in search of "the one." www.palast.berlin
Tickets 030. 39 06 65 50 // www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de www.wheretraveler.com 51
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NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE
Green Door. Inset, below: Becketts Kopf.
Secrets And Cocktails Walk through any of Berlin’s trendy neighborhoods and you will come across dozens of bars that beckon you to step inside their cozy interiors during these wintry months. Some of the city’s best finds, however, involve a bit more of a search, recalling the illicit establishments that sold alcoholic beverages during the Prohibition era in the American 1920s. Often located down winding staircases, long hallways, or minimalist entrances, Berlin's speakeasies carry the elegance of another age, an exclusive secrecy, and many of Berlin’s most captivating cocktails. Living up to its name, Green Door (p. 53) in Schöneberg is barely visible behind a discreet green sign and curtains. Once you enter – only after ringing its doorbell – it will feel like stepping back in time to the '70s, with checkered wallpaper, pin-cushioned couches and kitschy
framed photos on the walls. The modern drinks, however, are a series of sleek concoctions, such as their champagne with lemon, mint, and sugar. For a more secretive yet stellar atmosphere, head down the spiraling stairs at The Bar Marques (Graefestr. 92) in Kreuzberg, situated under a restaurant by the same name. Lounge in old armchairs or on the long communal table in what feels more like an antiquated living room. Known for its creative cocktails, the bar frequently hosts guest bartenders, a renowned lineup spanning the globe. Dimly illuminated with red lights and a glowing image of its namesake Samuel Beckett, Becketts Kopf (Pappelallee 64, becketts-kopf.de)
is one of Prenzlauer Berg’s most unique spots. Their drink menu includes everything from Irish “Writer’s Tears” whiskey to Spanish sherry, as well as a selection of Cuban cigars. Those still craving a bite to eat will also be impressed with the finger food menu. Hidden away from the bustling Friedrichstraße, Drayton Bar (Behrenstr. 55, www. draytonberlin.com) shares a secluded space with another hard-to-find favorite, the gourmet vegetarian restaurant Cookies Cream. To get there, you will need to wind past the Westin Hotel by the Komische Oper, then head behind the trashcans, looking for the door with a small faint sign. Reward yourself once you make it with one of their their custom-made cocktails.
photos: couretsy of becketts kopf and green door (© diephotodesigner).
Rachel Stern discovers the vintage mood of Berlin's best speakeasies.
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BEER Ankerklause A canal-side tavern where drinks come with beautiful views of passing boats. Daily from 10am (Mon from 4pm). www.ankerklause.de. Kottbusser Damm 104. T: 030.6935649. U Schönleinstraße. F4
Café am Neuen See and Biergarten A pleasant lakeside beer garden inside the verdant Tiergarten park. Open daily from breakfast onwards. www.cafeamneuensee.de. Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930. S Tiergarten. C3
Club der Visionäre This canal-side boat-shack attracts young crowds till early morning and beyond. Daily from 2pm until very late (from noon Sat & Sun). www. clubdervisionaere.com. Am Flutgraben 1. T: 030.69518942. U Schlesisches Tor, S Treptower Park. G4
Dicke Wirtin This old Berliner Kneipe restaurant is a Charlottenburg institution. Great beer and traditional German dishes. Daily from 11am. www.dicke-wirtin.de. Carmerstr. 9. T: 030.3124952. S Savignyplatz, S+U Zoologischer Garten. B4
Prater Berlin’s oldest Biergarten serves simple and homely cuisine, seasonal specialties, and lots of beer of course! Daily from 6pm (from noon Sat). www.pratergarten.de. Kastanienallee 7-9. T: 030.4485688. U Eberswalder Straße. F1
Schleusenkrug A relaxing spot for beer lovers amid the lush greenery of the Tiergarten. German specialties to go with your beer include a variety of cakes, Flammkuchen, and a few breakfast options. Daily from 11am. www.schleusenkrug.de. Müller-BreslauStr. T: 030.3139909. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3
CASINOS Spielbank Berlin A modern casino offering three floors of fun and games, including 20 tables of roulette, blackjack, and an extensive variety of poker options, as well as 350 gaming machines. Daily from 11am. www.spielbank-berlin.de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1. T: 030.255990. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3/D4
WINE & COCKTAILS Bar Tausend Celebrities mingle while watching the expert mixologists do their magic at this futuristic bar. Thu–Sat from 7:30pm. www.tausendberlin.com. Schiffbauerdamm 11. T: 030.27582070. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3 ©ISTOCK PHOTO.
PHOTOS: COURETSY OF BECKETTS KOPF AND GREEN DOOR (© DIEPHOTODESIGNER).
NIGHTLIFE
Fragrances The Ritz-Carlton’s bar is the world’s only to pair cocktails with perfumes. Each drink is represented
by a tester bottle of the perfume it’s based on and a photo illustrating the final presentation, which ranges from playful to whimsical. www.ritzcarlton. com. Potsdamer Platz 3. T: 030.337777. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
The Grand A former school building has been transformed into a super-hip restaurant, bar and club all mixed into one. Enjoy top cocktails and a selection of cigars on the green leather couches in the 1920s-inspired bar, then dance the night away in the chic, intimate club. www.the-grand-berlin.com. Hirtenstr. 4. T: 030.2789099555. S+U Alexanderplatz. B4
Green Door Cocktail Bar One of Berlin’s most relaxing cocktail bars, with a retro style and lots of kitsch décor. The cocktail list is long and the barman famous. Daily 6pm–3am (Fri–Sat until 4am). www.greendoor.de. Winterfeldtstr. 50. T: 030.2152515. U Nollendorfplatz. D4
Harry’s New York Bar An international drink menu with 200+ different cocktails, served to a jazz soundtrack. Mon–Sat from 4pm. www.esplanade.de. Grand Hotel Esplanade Berlin, Lützowufer 15. T: 030.254780. Bus M29, stop Lützowplatz. D4
LaBanca Bar The Hotel de Rome’s bar team specializes in avantgarde cocktails made with unusual ingredients such as balsamic vinegar, rose petals, or ginger beer. Live music Wed–Sat, rooftop terrace in summer. www.hotelderome.com. Behrenstr. 37. T: 030.4606090. U Französische Straße. E3
Newton Bar Cigars, champagne, whiskey, and cocktails define this bar, which is entirely dedicated to fashion photographer Helmut Newton. Daily 10am–3am (until 4am Fri–Sat). www.newton-bar.de. Charlottenstr. 57. T: 030.20295421. U Französische Straße. E3
Reingold A classic cocktail bar, 1920s style. Elegant leather sofas, sumptuous lighting, and gilded elements with a soundtrack of soul, funk, and R&B. Tue–Sat from 7pm. www.reingold.de. Novalisstr. 11. T: 030.28387676. U Oranienburger Tor. E2
Schwarzes Café A 24-hour combination of a bar and a café, with a good selection of beer and wine and hot meals at any time of night. Lovely garden. 24h a day except Tue from 3–10am. www. schwarzescafe-berlin. de. Kantstr. 148. T: 030.3138038. U Uhlandstraße, U Savignyplatz. B4
For a superb whiskey selection, check out the Lebensstern bar, upstairs from Café Einstein Stammhaus in Schöneberg (Kurfürstenstr. 58, www.cafeeinstein.com).
CLUB GUIDE BERGHAIN/PANORAMA BAR The world's most famous techno club – and with the toughest doormen too. Fri 12am– Mon. www.berghain.de. Am Wriezener Bahnhof. G3
KATER BLAU A top-notch soundsystem driving house and techno beats from the best DJs, and a carnival-like atmosphere. Fri–Sat from midnight. www.katerblau.de. Holzmarktstr. 25. G3
TRESOR Housed in the safe of a department store, Tresor was the first techno club in Berlin’s post-Wall years. www.tresorberlin.com. Köpenicker Str. 70. F3
WATERGATE A two-story electro, house, and drum & bass temple, right on the Spree River. Tight doors. Mon, Wed–Sat from midnight. www.water-gate.de. Falckensteinstr. 49. G4
HOUSE OF WEEKEND Three floors, fabulous views over the city, and the best DJs playing techno and house. Fri–Sun from 11pm. www.week-end-berlin. de. Alexanderplatz 7. F3
CLÄRCHENS BALLHAUS A popular, century-old dance hall. It's salsa on Mon, tango on Tues, swing on Wed, cha cha on Thu, and live ballroom music on Fri+Sat. www.ballhaus.de. Auguststr. 24. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2
HORNS & HOOVES An eccentric combination of club, piano bar, cabaret, and circus. www.hornsandhooves. de. Danziger Str. 1. F1
GRETCHEN Funk, hip hop, drum & bass and electronica at this eclectic Kreuzberg club. Fri & Sat. www.gretchen-club.de. Obentrautstr. 19-21. E4
FELIX CLUB A favorite among the rich and famous. Mon, Thu–Sat. www.felix-clubrestaurant.de. Behrenstr. 72. E3
PURO SKY LOUNGE High-heeled crowds in a sleek, luxurious setting on the roof of the Europa Center. Wed–Sat from 8pm. www.puroberlin.de. Tauentzienstr. 9-12. C4
THE PEARL Luxurious club for the poshest crowds, Thu–Sat until 7am. www.thepearl-berlin.de. Fasanenstr. 81. G4
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ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE USEFUL INFORMATION Emergency numbers Police, call 110 free from any phone. Ambulance or fire, call 112 free from any phone. Medical Services, T: 030.310031. 24h Pharmacy: Hauptbahnhof Apotheke.
T: 030.20614190. S Hauptbahnhof.
Tourist Passes and Discount Cards Where Pass Berlin: public transport and discounted entry to a long list of attractions. Get it at the S-Bahn Berlin machines and service centers. www.wherepassberlin.com
BERLIN AIRPORTS Berlin Tegel (TXL) Approx. 10 km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By bus: Buses 109 or X9 to Zoologischer Garten
Nobody knows the city better than your expert concierge. Thomas Munko, president of the German Society of the Golden Keys and Chief Concierge at Ritz-Carlton Berlin, is here to help. It's cold outside: where can your guests warm up? At a heartwarming performance in one of Berlin’s various opera houses. Your guest is looking for ideas for a marriage proposal: any suggestions? I'd recommend they ask the question during a romantic horse carriage ride through the city, or right before kickoff at a soccer game of Berlin’s team, Hertha BSC, in the middle of the Olympic Stadium. Can you tell us the five sights not to miss in Berlin? The Berlin Wall Memorial on Bernauer Straße, the former Stasi Prison in Hohenschönhausen, the Reichstag building, Museum Island, Gendarmenmarkt. A really unusual place to visit? Beelitz Heilstätten. It's an abandoned clinic and sanatorium that served as a military hospital during the First and Second World War. Hitler and Honecker were its most famous patients. What's a great place for a quick bite? The Street Food Thursday event at Markthalle Neun (Eisenbahnstr. 42-43), every Thursday between 5 and 10pm.
An interesting Berlin story? Did you know that Berlin has an abandoned airport? Located right in the middle of the city, what once was one of Europe´s most iconic airports was closed to air traffic in 2007, and turned into a park in 2010, when it became Berlin´s biggest public space. It's even larger than New York´s Central Park! Today, Tempelhof is a popular spot for family gatherings, music events, and sports. What do you like about your job? The people I meet. Their different backgrounds and perspectives. Why should one visit Berlin? To catch the spirit of an evocative past and to be inspired by art, design, and music. And to meet Berlin's mix of cultures. The best thing about Berliners? That they come with different fillings – if you mean the pastries [Berliner is also the German word for donut]. That they wear their hearts on their sleeves – if you mean the people. Images: Clockwise from left: The Berlin Wall memorial; Gendarmenmarkt; a scene from Don Giovanni (Deutsche Oper).
Berlin Schönefeld (SXF) Approx. 20 km (12 miles) southeast of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By regional train: Deutsche Bahn-operated
RE7 or RB14 to Ostbahnhof, Alexanderplatz, Hauptbahnhof, and Zoologischer Garten. RE9 to Hauptbahnhof via Südkreuz and Potsdamer Platz. Trains take approx. 45 mins. Tickets cost €3.30. By S-Bahn: Trains S9 and S45 to Hauptbahnhof, via Ostkreuz and Südkreuz respectively, run. every 20 mins, taking approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.30. By U-Bahn: Bus X7 and X11 to Rudow station connect with the U-Bahn system and run every 10 mins. Journey approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.30. By (night) bus: Arrivals between midnight and 4am Mon–Fri can take bus N7 to central areas. By taxi: Regular cabs take approx. 30 mins to city center, costing €30–€40. Left luggage: At the multi-storey car park P4. T: 030.60911150.
GETTING AROUND Public Transport www.bvg.de.
Fares Buy tickets from machines in the station, and be sure to validate them in the posts next to the ticket machines. Single tickets cost €2.70; or save by paying €9 for four single-trip tickets, which you can validate as you need. If traveling fewer than three train stations or six bus or tram stops, buy a short-trip ticket for €1.70. Day tickets cost €7 for unlimited travel until 3am the following day, or if you are traveling with others, a small group ticket will get up to five people unlimited travel for €17.30. For those staying longer, a pass valid for seven days may be a better value at €30.
BERLIN WALL MEMORIAL AND GENDARMENMARKT: ©ISTOCK; DON GIOVANNI: PHOTO BY MARCUS LIEBERENZ, COURTESY OF DEUTSCHE OPER.
ASK THE CONCIERGE
run every 10 mins, taking approx. 20 mins. The TXL express bus to Alexanderplatz via Hauptbahnhof runs every 5–10 mins, taking. 25 mins. Single tickets cost €2.70 and can be bought on board. By U-Bahn: Bus 109 or X9 connects to the U-Bahn system at Jakob-Kaiser-Platz. Bus 128 links to the U-Bahn at Kurt-Schumacher-Platz and runs every 10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. Tickets cost €2.70. By taxi: Regular cabs take 10–20 mins to city center. Approx. €20–€35. Left luggage: Service center in Terminal A (ground floor). T: 030.41012315.
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U-Bahn The underground system is extensive. Most lines run every five minutes (less frequently outside working hours), 4am–12:30am (replaced by night buses outside of these times). The entire U-Bahn and S-Bahn network runs all night on weekends.
S-Bahn The above-ground system is faster than the U-Bahn but less frequent. Trains run every 10–20 mins. Timing and ticket rules apply as above.
Public Ferries With a regular BVG ticket ,you can hop on one of the six public ferry lines. Most beautiful is the trip from Wannsee to lakeside Kladow village; ferries leave every hour and take about 20 minutes.
Rail Travel Deutsche Bahn is the railway company that manages the Regional Bahn (RB) and Regional Express (RE) trains, operating around greater Berlin and Potsdam. The Intercity (IC) and European City (EC) trains travel further afield. www.bahn.de. Toll number: 0180.6996633.
Rent A Bike Explore Berlin by bike.
ViktoriaLuise-Platz Named after Prussian Princess Viktoria Luise, the only daughter of Emperor Kaiser Wilhelm the II, U4 Viktoria-Luise-Platz station is one of only five stops on the very short U4 line. Upstairs on ground level, some of the entrances feature elegant stone pergola entranceways. Unlike the other U-Bahn lines in the city, the U4 has never been redeveloped or extended in its 107-year history.
Taxis
Tax-Free Shopping
Würfelfunk: T: 030.210101.
German law entitles all non-EU residents to a VAT tax refund. Look for stores displaying the Premier Tax Free sign and ask for a "tax-free form." When leaving the EU, goods and the completed form must be shown to a customs agent, from which a customs stamp must be obtained no more than three months after the date of purchase. Goods must be unused. Present the stamped form at the refund counter in the airport, or send it to Premier Tax Free as soon as you reach your destination. www.premiertaxfree.com.
Money Services
Deutsche Bahn Call-a-Bike service:
Banks and Foreign Exchange
www.callabike.de. Berlin and Bike: www.berlinandbike.de. T: 0163.5120124.
Exchange AG: Friedrichstr. 172. T: 030.20649296. Deutsche Bank: Kurfürstendamm 111. T: 030.8904370.
Rent a Car
American Express: T: 069.97972000 Diners Club: T: 07531.3633111 MasterCard: T: 0800.8191040 Visa: T: 0800.8118440
Avis: www.avis.com. T: 0180.6217702 (toll number) Europcar: www.europcar.com. T: 040.52018765 Hertz: www.hertz.com. T: 0180.6003690
STATIO OF N MONTTHE H
Lost Cards and Cheques
MAP LICENSE NUMBER: BVG-0050.16; UBAHN: © ISTOCK photo.
Berlin wall memorial and gendarmenmarkt: ©istock; don giovanni: photo by marcus lieberenz, courtesy of deutsche oper.
ESSENTIALS
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Where now | HANS RICHARD
Hans Richard [Founder & patron, Restaurant Richard]
Originally from Switzerland, Hans Richard is an artist-turned-chef and restaurateur whose FrenchSwiss restaurant – fittingly named Richard – boasts one of Kreuzberg’s most beautiful interiors. His efforts to make it a special place have paid off: In 2015, Richard was awarded its first Michelin star. Flip to page 46 for more details. Köpenicker Str. 174, www.restaurant-richard.de
Before opening your restaurant, you were originally an artist. How did the transition from art to gastronomy come about? I had developed an interest in cooking over many years. I was simply fascinated by good food and the process of how it is made, and I taught myself various culinary skills along the way. Because I come from a family of hoteliers, making the transition into gastronomy was not a far-fetched step. One of the most striking characteristics of your restaurant is the historical space and its many fine features. How did you find the space, and did its features influence your restaurant concept? I knew the restaurants that had been at this location before and heard that the space would be becoming free. The pragmatic decision to move into this location had a strong influence on my design choices for the restaurant, though not on the culinary concept itself. Another distinctive feature at Richard is the modern art that decorates the space. Did you choose these pieces with a particular style or feel in mind? I did source some of the pieces myself, while
others are loans, in which case there was less flexibility to choose. My aim was not to convey one particular style concept, but rather to create a beautiful ambiance using pictures that I personally like. Given the importance of art in your life, what are your favorite places in Berlin for art? My personal favorite is the room of Caspar David Friedrich paintings on the top level of the Alte Nationalgalerie (Bodestr. 1, www.smb. museum). Which neighborhood do you live in, and what makes you feel at home there? I live on the Kreuzberg side of Friedrichstraße. I like the anonymity of the area, and how it feels like it is not quite a neighborhood at all. Richard is also located in Kreuzberg, a neighborhood that has not traditionally
been known as a gourmet destination, though this has changed quite a bit in recent years. Are there any restaurants in the neighborhood that you particularly like? My favorite place to go eat is Lode & Stijn (Lausitzer Str. 25, www.lode-stijn. de). This place gets my wholehearted recommendation. Imagine it’s a beautiful day and you’re free to spend it however you choose. What would your perfect Berlin day look like? I would spend a wonderful day at Gleisdreieck Park with my young daughter. We’d pack up our things, get an ice cream along the way, and spend the whole day playing and relaxing in the park. My phone would stay at home, of course. Clockwise from top left: The Caspar David Friedrich room at the Alte Nationalgalerie; pretty table setting at Richard; the interior of Richard; Inset: an octopus dish at Richard; Gleisdreieck Park.
Caspar David Friedrich-Saal in der Alten Nationalgalerie; © Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, Nationalgalerie / Foto: Andres Kilger; richard images: courtesy of richard restaurant; gleisdreieck park: © Creative Commons license CCBY-NC 2.0 by Flickr user Michael Eichental.
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