Where Berlin June 2017 by Morris Media Network

Berlin

CONTENTS

06.17 See more of Berlin at wheretraveler.com

The Plan Let’s get started

The Guide The best of Berlin

24 10

6 Hot Dates

Hidden treasures in the beautiful Schöneberg neighborhood.

Highlights of the month's can't-miss events, from the Long Night of the Sciences to Carnival of Cultures.

SIGHTSEEING

XX inside centuriesStep old apartments for a glimpse of the past.

58 58

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Photography helps people XX to see. Here are two new exhibitions from C/O Berlin.

Bring on the beer garden XX our beloved spots for season: whiling away the summer.

58 My Berlin Luisa Giannitti Sharing her passion for Italian food and Berlin.

Music reverberates through the city for Fete de la Musique.

Also Inside

A collection of insider tips from Berlin concierges.

Dancing all night long under the stars – one of summer's many pleasures.

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The brightness of summer takes over your wardrobe.

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ON THE COVER

Jump onboard a boat and discover Berlin's waterways – sea legs not required.

BY RACHEL STERN

24 Summer Colors

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SHOPPING | ENTERTAINMENT | CULTURE | DINING | MAPS

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16 Impressed By The Impressionists

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Gorge your way through the diverse and delectable flavors of the city.

From transport to emergency numbers, find useful information for your stay in Berlin.

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10 Take A Bite Of Berlin

The finest and tastiest dishes the city has to offer

WB JUNE COVER.indd 1

Where Now

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LONG NIGHT OF THE SCIENCES: © WISTA-MG-WWW.ADLERSHOF.DE; SABICH: COURTESY OF NENI; PAINTING: COURTESY OF BARBERINI MUSEUM, POTSDAM; TOUR BOAT: COURTESY OF STERN UND KREIS; PANAMA: © PHILIPP LANGENHEIM & CORINA SCHAEDENDORF.

SHOPPING

4 Editor’s Note

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M A G A Z I N E

The Great Outdoors

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EDITORIAL

There are lots of reasons why June is my favorite month in Berlin: the trees are greener than they'll ever be, the lakes are ready to welcome thousands of Berliners every weekend, and the strawberry stands have arrived from the Brandenburg countryside to sell us their delicious red fruits. But the best thing about June is the multitude of outdoor events all around town. This year, the month starts with the colorful parades of the Karneval der Kulturen, which will be filling the streets of Kreuzberg with traditional music and dance throughout the Pentecost weekend (2–5 June). Art lovers should not miss the 48 Hours Neukölln festival (23–24 June), two days of open-air art exhibitions and installations, including markets and workshops for all to enjoy. And the following weekend, on 30 June, we should all head to the pretty Bergmanstraße area for the Bergmannstraßenfest, a lively celebration of summer packed with music, theater, and street food.

Rico Manthey

See you there!

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EDITOR Solveig Steinhardt CONTRIBUTORS Hilda Hoy, Annabelle

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4 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U N E 2017

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Sarah Bethke

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HOT

DATES June in Berlin is packed with hot events, from bicycle races and tap dance to scientific discoveries and neighborhood festivals.

KARNEVAL DER KULTUREN FROM FRIDAY

Every year on Pentecost weekend, Berlin's multicultural community comes together in Kreuzberg to celebrate diversity with a lively three-day street festival. Set around BlĂźcherplatz and filled with food, performances, and kids' activities, the festival culminates in a loud and colorful parade leaving from Hermannplatz on Sunday 4 June at noon. Get ready for a whole weekend of partying and dancing on the streets while you admire the wildly colorful costumes. www.karneval-berlin.de

6 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U N E 2017

LAST CHANCE

BOSCH. VISIONS ALIVE UNTIL SUNDAY

You've only got until 18 June to visit Bosch – Visions Alive, a multimedia installation presenting the nightmarish paintings of Dutch artist Hieronymus Bosch. Set up to mark 500 years since the painter's death, this digital exhibition at Alte Münze illustrates his imaginative depictions of the afterlife and hell, a place filled with monsters, demons, naked people in pain, and animal-like figures that have intrigued and terrified viewers for half a millennium. www.alte-muenze-berlin.de

48 HOURS NEUKÖLLN FROM FRIDAY

In recent years, the multi-ethnic Neukölln neighborhood has become an enclave for artists and creative types. To celebrate the district's eclectic soul, every year the weekend-long 48 Hours Neukölln festival turns the streets into an experimental gallery with neighborhoodspecific installations, exhibitions, talks, and a general party atmosphere. Kids can take part in a number of workshops and events at the JungeKunst event, filled with fun, hands-on activities. www.48-stunden-neukoelln.de

THE TAP PACK FROM FRIDAY

For the whole month of June, five furiously energetic tap dancers from Australia will be picking up where Sinatra and Dean Martin's legendary Rat Pack left off years ago: With their lively performance at Tipi am Kanzleramt, the five will be presenting powerful choreographies of well-known songs by singers like Bublé, Beyoncé, and many more, accompanied by live music and a pinch of Australian humor. www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de www.wheretraveler.com 7

WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

LONG NIGHT OF THE SCIENCES

SATURDAY

Hobby scientists, botany lovers, stargazers, and lab maniacs of all ages: Tonight is your night! Berlin's Long Night of the Sciences opens the doors of dozens of scientific institutions in Berlin and Potsdam with a rich program of lectures, special museum tours, open labs, and lots of experiments for kids and adults alike, led by researchers and scientists. The participating venues are all over town, and one ticket gets you access to all of them, plus the shuttle bus. www.langenachtderwissenschaften.de

THE BEACH BOYS THURSDAY

When they first emerged in 1961, the Beach Boys became the emblem of the southern California way of life, made of romance, big cars, and lots of surfing. With hits such as I Get Around, Good Vibrations, Surfin' Safari, and Barbara Ann, the band made an important contribution to the so-called "California sound" of the 1960s. Take a trip back to the surfing age at the band's great revival concert at Spandau Zitadelle. www.zitadelle-berlin.de

VELOTHON SUNDAY

For most Berliners, the bicycle is not just a way to get around: it symbolizes the city's eco-friendly mindset and a healthy lifestyle. Every year in June, Berlin's Velothon cycling extravaganza offers amateurs and pros alike the opportunity to bike along 60, 120, or 180 km of traffic-free courses. If you don't feel like taking part, you can still cheer the cyclists along the route and join the festive atmosphere. www.velothon.com

the Staatsballett dancing the 1 Admire beautiful Swan Lake at Deutsche Oper. Georges Bizet's feisty, lively opera Carmen is 2 on the program at Komische Oper tonight. The weeklong German Gymnastics Festival 3 starts today, with galas & showcases galore. Join the fun at the massive Karneval der 4 Kulturen parade along Gneisenaustraße. Explore the work of famed photographer 5 Juergen Teller at Martin-Gropius-Bau. Brazilian soul-funk singer-songwriter Seu 6 Jorge takes the stage at Admiralspalast. just an actor: Kiefer Sutherland sings his 7 Not debut album at Heimathafen Neukölln. since the '60s, The Beach Boys are 8 Hitmakers in town to perform at Zitadelle Spandau. off the weekend at Hopfenreich, with 9 Kick Kreuzberg's biggest craft beer selection. Torstrassen Festival is on all weekend, 10 The bringing a variety of cool concerts to Mitte. vintage shopping? Don't miss the Old 11 Love Fleas Vintage Market at Ballhaus Berlin. Nikki Lane sings her bluesy rock 12 American and country tunes at Privatclub tonight. System of a Down's new heavy metal 13 Hear album at their Wuhlheide concert tonight. retro-inspired R & B band Vintage 14 Lively, Trouble take the stage at Columbia Theater. the feast at the Street Food Thursday 15 Join event at Kreuzberg's Markthalle Neun. the weekend off right with a few beers 16 Start at Prater, Berlin's oldest beer garden. indie rock band Spoon performs their 17 Texas new album at Festsaal Kreuzberg. antique fans, the Sunday flea market on 18 For Tiergarten's Straße des 17. Juni is a must. a refreshing dip at Kreuzberg's 19 Take Badeschiff, a pool floating in the Spree River. folk rock musician Devendra Banhart is 20 Lo-fi in town to perform at Columbiahalle. the summer solstice with Fête de la 21 Mark Musique's free outdoor concerts. band Depeche Mode plays their 22 Legendary latest album, Spirit, at Olympiastadion. into a whole weekend of art and culture 23 Dive with the 48 Hours Neukölln festival. Long Night of the Sciences program 24 The features citywide events until midnight. hit Tennessee rock band Kings of 25 Smash Leon sing on the Waldbühne forest stage. a movie at CineStar Potsdamer Platz, 26 Catch one of few theaters to play movies in English. Take a musical lunch break at the 27 Philharmonie's free "lunch concert" at 1pm. rockers Jimmy Eat World perform 28 Arizona old hits and new songs at Huxleys tonight. California rockers Blink-182 will rock 29 Bad-boy the hall at Max-Schmeling-Halle tonight. Tribe Called Red blends Native Canadian 30 Atradition with techno at Berghain Kantine.

See listings for addresses and more info. 8 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U N E 2017

KARNEVAL DER KULTUREN: © DANIELA INCORONATO; BOSCH. VISIONS ALIVE: COURTESY OF BOSCH. VISIONS ALIVE; 48 HOURS NEUKÖLLN: © MLOSCH; THE TAP PACK: COURTESY OF TIPI AM KANZLERAMT; LONG NIGHT OF THE SCIENCES: © WISTA-MG-WWW.ADLERSHOF.DE; THE BEACH BOYS: COURTESY OF TRINITY MUSIC; VELOTHON: © ISTOCK.

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WHERE NOW | BERLIN TASTES

Hope you’re hungry – Hilda Hoy narrowed down the tastiest, most interesting Berlin dishes every visitor should try, from every facet of the local culinary scene. So loosen your belt buckle a notch and prepare to feast, nibble, and snack your way through the diverse and delicious tastes of the city.

A DESSERT FROM CODA It's for good reason that Coda Dessert Bar (Friedelstr. 47, www. coda-berlin.com) was considered one of Berlin's most exciting recent restaurant openings. The menu concept is dessert and cocktail pairings, with sweet-savory dishes that will challenge you to broaden your culinary horizons. Think poached apricots paired with the unlikely companions of kalamata olive and whisper-thin crisps of sourdough bread. To sip with it, rare vermouth refined by a hint of raspberry vinegar. The chef, a pâtissier with years of Michelin Star-caliber experience, turns every creation into a work of art and a delight for the senses. SABICH FROM NENI The food offerings around the Bahnhof Zoo station were once lackluster, but then along came NENI (Budapester Str. 40, www.25hourshotels.com). The penthouse eatery atop the 25hours Hotel specializes in Israeliand Mediteranneaninspired fusion, and is one of the few places in the city to get sabich, an addictive Tel Aviv street food specialty that sounds simple – pita, roasted eggplant, hummus, luscious tahini, soft egg, and a cuminspiced mango sauce called amba – but is so much greater than the sum of its parts. Perfect sabich accompaniment: NENI's soaring views over Tiergarten park.

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CAPPELLETTI FROM SALA DA MANGIARE Though Berlin has plenty of Italian restaurants, Neukölln's cozy little Sala da Mangiare (Mainzer Str. 23, www.saladamangiare. de) stands out for its irresistible pastas, made fresh and by hand in house daily in accordance with Slow Food principles. The star of the menu is stuffed pasta from the famed gastronomy region of Emilia-Romagna, like cappelletti, aka. "little hats." Sala da Mangiare's signature dish, the "hats" are filled with meat and cheese and then topped with a rich ragù sauce. To ensure the proper taste of home, even the flour for the dough is imported directly from Emilia-Romagna.

CODA DESSERT BAR: © WHITE KITCHEN BERLIN. CAPPELLETTI: COURTESY OF SALA DA MANGIARE. SABICH: COURTESY OF 25HOURS HOTEL BERLIN. FRAGRANCES: © THE RITZ-CARLTON BERLIN. THAI PARK: CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 VIA FLICKR USER MICHARL_BE. SCHWEIN: COURTESY OF SCHWEIN.

TAKE A OF BERLIN

VAARA COCKTAIL FROM FRAGRANCES There's no other bar in Berlin that can match the creative concept of Fragrances (Potsdamer Platz 3, www.ritzcarlton.com), the chic and classy cocktail spot tucked into the back of the lobby at The RitzCarlton. Each drink is inspired by a luxury perfume, and the "menu" is a row of perfume bottles to sniff through. From the mixology down to the presentation, every detail is fine-tuned. The best-selling Vaara cocktail is an utterly enchanting blend of pear puree, saffron rum, bourbon, rosewater, and magnolia syrup, served in a wee wooden sauna house that lets out a puff of sandalwood smoke as it's opened.

CARAMELIZED APPLE TART WITH DULCE DE LECHE FROM WEINBAR SCHWEIN In just 1.5 years since its opening, Weinbar Schwein (Elisabethkirchstraße 2. www.schwein.onlin) has managed to climb Berlin's gourmet ladder, offering a fine dining experience in an informal and relaxed setting. Think dishes like beef tartare with egg yolk paste and pickled vegetables, or slow-cooked aburi salmon with vinegar potato crumble and dill emulsion, all accompanied by a curated list of wine and liquor labels. And do not make the mistake of leaving before trying their caramelized almond-based apple tart with dulce de leche and sea buckthorn (pictured below and on the cover), a creation of young chef Christopher Kümper.

PAPAYA SALAD FROM THE "THAI PARK" Every weekend, the Wilmersdorf district becomes one of the city’s liveliest Asian food destinations. Rain or shine, Berlin’s sizeable Thai community flocks to Preussenpark, a.k.a. “the Thai Park,” to cook fresh and tasty Thai delicacies right on the grass. The vast selection includes everything from fried chicken wings to hot noodle soups, but make sure to try a fresh papaya salad, a zesty concoction made from shredded green papaya, garlic, dried shrimp, and peanuts, pounded up in a big mortar with lots of lime juice and fish sauce. Tip: Sunny Sunday afternoons deliver the best Thai Park experience. w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 11

WHERE NOW | BERLIN TASTES

GEMÜSE KEBAB FROM MUSTAFA'S Urban legend has it that the döner kebab was invented in Kreuzberg by a Turkish immigrant, so trying one of these sandwiches of spit-roasted meat stuffed into flatbread is, needless to say, a Berlin must. Though döner shops are abundant in pretty much every neighborhood, quality varies wildly, so it's worth seeking out one of the most famous kebab stands of all, Mustafa’s Gemüse Kebap (Mehringdamm SPICY DOSAS FROM CHUTNIFY Berlin isn't exactly known for its spicy food, which is why fans of Indian food rejoiced when Chutnify (www.chutnify.com) opened in 2014. The colorful and kitchy eatery now has locations in both Prenzlauer Berg (Sredzkistr. 43) and Neukölln (Pflügerstr. 25) serving a tasty (and yes, spicy) array of South Indian street food specialties, though it's the dosas that are an absolute must-try. Thin, crisp pancakes made from rice and lentils are filled with curry chicken, fiery lamb, or the classic Masala dosa: potato cubes gently spiced and served with a variety of chutneys.

12 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U N E 2017

32, www.mustafas.de). Their incredibly popular kebab is a delicious mess of spit-roasted chicken and fried vegetables with the added zip of crumbled feta and a squeeze of fresh lemon. It's so good that the line usually snakes halfway down the block, but everyone should try it at least once! SCHNITZEL FROM SCHNEEWEISS The Austrians among us would probably argue that schnitzel is their invention, but nevertheless, those golden fillets of breaded fried pork (or veal, if you’re a Viennese purist) are one of the most popular dishes on the menus of local German restaurants, served, as tradition dictates, with warm potato salad. The most tender, light, and crispy schnitzels can be found at Schneeweiß in Friedrichshain (Simplonstr. 16, www.schneeweiss-berlin.de), a cool Alpine-themed restaurant with an all-white interior. The elegant Jolesch restaurant in Kreuzberg (Muskauer Str. 1, www.jolesch. de) is another contender for the best schnitzel in town. You'll just have to try them both to judge who comes out on top. MANGO ICE CREAM FROM VANILLE & MARILLE Berliners really, really love their ice cream, and the summer season is gladly used as an excuse to indulge in a scoop or two at every possible opportunity. And the most beloved ice cream flavor of all? Mango. Believe it or not, Berliners are crazy for this vivid tropical fruit, and pretty much every ice cream shop has it on offer. Try the intensely flavorful, homemade scoops at Vanille & Marille (multiple locations incl. Reichenberger Str. 118, www.vanille-marille.de) or Eismanufaktur (multiple locations incl. Auguststr. 63 and Graefestr. 7, www.eismanufaktur-berlin.de). The Rosa Canina ice cream counter inside Kreuzberg’s Markthalle Neun (Eisenbahnstr. 42, www.rosacanina. eu) makes theirs using organic mangoes.

ROGACKI: HILDA HOY. GEMÜSE KEBAB: CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 VIA FLICKR USER LUKE WALKER. SCHNITZEL: COURTESY OF SCHNEEWEISS. ICE CREAM: © ISTOCK. CHUTNIFY: COURTESY OF CHUTNIFY.

Above: Wilmersdorf's classic deli Rogacki is famed for its house-smoked fish. Below: the popular chicken kebab from Mustafa's.

SMOKED FISH FROM ROGACKI The northern regions of Germany are famed for their fish delicacies, and there’s no better place to sample the whole range than at Rogacki (Wilmersdorfer Str. 145–146, www.rogacki.de). A family-run deli dating back to 1928, today’s Rogacki is famed for fishy housemade specialties like matjes, little herring soused in vinegar, onion, and herbs, as well as whole trout, char, salmon, and eel that are freshly smoked on site. Get your fish packed up to go, or join the crowds at the busy lunch counters and get in some peoplewatching while enjoying your feast.

Clockwise from this photo: Paddleboats on the Neuen See; tour ship from Stern und Kreis; The Van Loon restaurant ship; Boats on the Spree; The beer garden at Café am Neuen See; Yoga on paddleboards at Stand Up Club Berlin

autical fans, rejoice! Though not on the coast, Berlin is undoubtedly a city on the water. It is said to have five times as many bridges as Venice and over 180km of navigable waterways, counting numerous lakes, rivers, and canals that eventually flow into the Baltic and North Seas. Historically serving as shipping channels and borders in a divided city, Berlin’s waterways have since been transformed into a hub for sightseers, and the best way to experience them is, of course, aboard a boat.

JUST CRUISIN' A river cruise is a great way to sit back and discover the city's historical and cultural riches. Boat tour companies Reederei 14 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U N E 2017

Riedel (www.reederei-riedel.de), Reederei Bruno Winkler (www.reedereiwinkler.de), and Exclusiv Yachtcharter Berlin (www. exclusiv-yachtcharter.de) all offer similar routes as well as food and beverages. Hop on board for a one-hour tour of the city center along the Spree, cutting right through the modern government district and the architectural treasures of Museum Island. For more leisurely sightseers, the Stand Up three-and-a-half-hour Club Berlin "Bridge Tour" is a good choice. It takes a wide loop on the through metropolitan Berlin and the colorful districts of Friedrichshain, Charlottenburg, Kreuzberg, and Neukölln on the Landwehr Canal. Along the way, the boat passes under 64 bridges, some so low that a warning signal tells passengers on the top deck when to duck

their heads. Tours depart from numerous mooring points. The "7 Lakes" tour with Stern und Kreis (www.sternundkreis.de) takes you along the chain of lakes between Berlin and Potsdam, alternating between stunning nature and historical monuments such as Prussian castles and the Glienicker Brücke bridge, where Russian and American spies were exchanged during the Cold War. Alternatively, you can catch the F10 ferry across the lake to Kladow, passing the secluded Peacock Island and requiring no more than a valid BVG transport ticket for boarding. When you get off, take a walk on the promenade and check out the resteaurant and playgrounds. There's even a swimming spot for the warmer days.

ROW, ROW, ROW YOUR BOAT For more boating opportunities where you provide the muscle power, head to the greenery of Treptower Park. Walk along the Spree River to Insel der Jugend, soaking up the lively atmosphere along

CAFÉ AM NEUEN SEE: COURTESY OF CAFÉ AM NEUEN SEE; LOUNGE: COURTESY OF VAN LOON; YOGA CLASS, STAND UP PADDLE: COURTESY OF STAND UP CLUB BERLIN.

DID YOU KNOW? With 45 km of navigable waterways, the Spree is the longest river in the city. The Teltow Canal in the city's south is the longest artificial waterway and served as a border during the Cold War.

BERLIN BY BOAT | WHERE NOW

SCHIFF ALEXANDER VON HUMBOLDT: COURTESY OF STERN UND KREIS. GRAPHICS COURTESY OF ISTOCK

Coming from the east coast of Australia, Annabelle Mallia was pleasantly surprised to discover water was still close to home.

the esplanade. Depending on your mood, you can rent a pedal boat, rowboat, or a motorboat and go exploring. Kids will have fun just circumnavigating the island, and you can dock for a refreshing drink at the island's beer garden. Alternatively, at pondside Café am Neuen See (www. cafeamneuensee.de) in the middle of Tiergarten you can fill up on wood-fired pizza and German beer, then rent one of their paddleboats for a splash about with the ducks in the sun. If you're looking for more adventure, Berlin Kayak Tours (www.kajakberlintours. de) offers a range of options from night events to East and West tours. Or join the latest stand-up paddling craze from Hawaii at Stand Up Club Berlin (www. standupclub.de). Located centrally at Arena Berlin, their tour steers you past ruins of the Berlin Wall and the city’s clubbing scene, while yoga enthusiasts can take part in one of their floating yoga classes on the paddling board. Afterwards, simply relax on the beach at the Arena Badeschiff.

DINING AFLOAT No need to dock onto dry land when the appetite builds. Restaurant ship Alte Liebe (www.alte-liebe-berlin.de), located on the Havel River and surrounded by the Grunewald forest is a legendary spot for West Berliners on a first date. It dishes up an extensive range of hearty and maritime German-style cuisine options against a backdrop of boats sailing off into the sunset. Or, on a lovely section of the old Kreuzberg harbor, diners can climb aboard Van Loon (www.vanloon.de) into a surprisingly roomy boat hold, reconstructed with expansive windows to ensure great views of the water. The menu is suitably seafood-focused, including modern variations on the classic fish and chips. But by far the most novel way to dine is with Grill-boot.de (www.grill-boot.de) or bbq-donut (www.bbq-donut-berlin. de). Shaped like big orange donuts with a barbeque in the middle and and umbrella overhead, these floating grill boats can be seen sailing on the Havel River and Tegeler

See lake, both offering similar deals for up to ten hungry sailors.

DAY TRIPPER Now that you’ve taken in all the city sights, it’s time to head a little further afield. Neu-Venedig (New Venice) in the far southeastern district of Rahnsdorf is renowned for its canals, reminiscent of the Italian namesake city. Rent a canoe and go exploring, passing small garden cottages and multi-story villas. The weeping willows and water lilies make it a truly idyllic spot, so peaceful that you'd never believe you're still in Berlin. A bit farther away, at an hour's drive from Berlin, the Spreewald UNESCO biosphere offers a spectacular maze of about 200 small canals totaling 1300km in length. The closest town, Lübbenau, which is also the hometown of the legendary pickles, is a great starting point for a traditional punting tour and for a nature observation expedition, but you can also rent a canoe and head off solo – just don’t lose the map. w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 15

d s s e e r p m

WHERE NOW | BERLIN ART

BY THE IMPRESSIONISTS

uring a World War II air raid, Potsdam’s majestic Barberini Palace, built in 1772 as an assembly house for art and culture societies, was left in ruins. Now freshly reconstructed, the palace reopened on 20 January this year as the Barberini Museum (Humboldtstr. 5-6, 14467 Potsdam, www.museum-barberini. com) with an exhibition on impressionist art. Art aficionados as diverse as Chancellor Angela Merkel and Bill Gates were present to celebrate the grand opening. I was impressed by the museum, situated about 45 minutes from Berlin's center by S-Bahn, even before setting foot inside. Its intricate Italian High Renaissance-style facade – modelled after its namesake palace in Rome – is the focal point of Potsdam’s Alte Markt, a square originally commissioned by Frederick the Great. The royal feel continued inside the museum, with airy, high ceilings and corridors central to the original palace. But most stunning were the hardwood halls of hundreds of art masterpieces, filled with both classics and lesser-known impressionists and GDR-era works that largely comprise the private collection of Hasso Plattner, founder of software company SAP. When I visited in May, the collection centered on its opening exhibition: an array of impressionist

16 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U N E 2017

art, including lesser known watercolor landscapes from Monet, Renoir, and Caillebotte. Starting on 17 June and running until 3 October, the museum will unveil the exhibit From Hopper to Rothko: America's Road to Modern Art, also showcasing rarely seen art works from American impressionism to abstract art expressionism normally on display at The Phillips Collection in Washington, D.C. . Many museum gardens I’ve seen are filled with whimsical statues matching their environment, but Plattner purposely chose a controversial centerpiece: the bronze sculpture Century Step by Wolfgang Mattheuer (1984). Showcasing a statue with both a clenched fist and a raised salute, it makes reference to two totalitarian regimes: the communists and the Nazis. Perhaps the museum’s most modern and unique feature, not surprisingly the brainchild of its techie founder and his team at SAP, is the 3x5-meter Smart Wall. Visitors can juxtapose impressionist landscapes mostly from the 19th century with current photographs of the location by German photographer Christoph Irrgang. Some of the landscapes were left astonishingly untouched over the the years, and I left the exhibit questioning not only how much art mirrors life, but how much life mirrors art.

From top to bottom: Exterior of the Barberini Museum; Sunday ,1926, Edward Hopper; Red Sun, 1935, Arthur G. Dove; Apache dance,1938, Max Beckmann; White Noise, Vassily Kandinsky. Inset, left: the museum's interior.

ALL PHOTOS: COURTESY OF MUSEUM BARBERINI. ARTHUR G. DOVE, PHILLIPS COLLECTION, WASHINGTON, D.C., © ESTATE OF ARTHUR G. DOVE; HOPPER'S SUNDAY: COURTESY OF PHILLIPS COLLECTION, WASHINGTON, D.C.

Rachel Stern tours one of Germany’s most stunning art collections, housed inside the renovated Barberini Palace in Potsdam.

Edward Hopper: Sunday, 1926, The Phillips Collection, Washington, D.C.

From Hopper to Rothko

Americaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Road to Modern Art June 17 to October 3, 2017

The Phillips Collection, Washington, D.C., in cooperation with the Museum Barberini, Potsdam. Museum Barberini Alter Markt, Humboldtstr. 5â&#x20AC;&#x201C;6 14467 Potsdam T +49 331 236014-499 besucherservice@museum-barberini.com www.museum-barberini.com

SHOPPING | THE GUIDE Clockwise from left: A playful table arrangement by Mamsell; Select chocolate bars at Winterfeld Schokoladen; The interior at Tee Tea Thé. Inset, below: A cork screw by Pylones.

Clockwise from top left: A playful table arrangement by Mamsell; The praline counter at Winterfeld Schokoladen; The interior at Tee Tea Thé.

Local Wares The late and revered David Bowie wasn’t the only one drawn to the allure of Schöneberg. The district was also the stomping grounds of 1920s movie star Marlene Dietrich, and Nick Cave would while away his nights at Café M on Goltzstraße, West Berlin’s party hotspot in the 1980s. The clubs have since moved to the trendier east, but the popular street remains an urban oasis of cafés, bars, and plenty of small shops. A treasure trove for well-preserved pieces from the past centuries is Mimi Textile Antiquitäten (Goltzstr. 5, www.mimi.berlin), selling original lace petticoats, vintage dresses, and Gobelin and beaded clutches, all displayed in décor reminiscent of a Roaring Twenties boudoir. For modern fashion, don’t go past the Shoeting Berlin boutique and shoe store next door (no. 1, www.shoeting. de), with stunning collections from European designers including FLY London, Sessun, and Sixton. 18 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U N E 2017

Immerse yourself in the ultimate tea culture at Tee Tea Thé (no. 2, www.shop. teeteathe.de). The café has a menu of more than 250 tea blends, but the real draw is the shop, with hundreds of teacups, teapots, and canisters, many featuring exquisite Asian designs. Behind the counter is also a selection of premium blends, including the famous Prince Vladimir from Kusmi Tea. The window display at Mamsell (no. 48, www. mamsellberlin.de) is just a taste of what lies inside. Specializing in all things sweet, they have a cabinet full of chocolate, a café serving up delicious treats, and a little shop at the back with the prettiest collection of kitchen accessories, including Greengate crockery and many items from Berlin designers. Equally impressive is Winterfeldt Schokoladen (no. 23, www.

winterfeldt-schokoladen.de), an old pharmacy turned chocolate heaven, specializing in organic and fair-trade treats and carrying a selection of the best Italian chocolates. A bit further down the road is colorful design and gift shop Mobilien (no. 13B, www. mobilien-berlin.de). Its quirky take on everyday items for the home, such as a poodle soap dispenser or carrot sharpener, many from French design emporium Pylones (also see p. 22), will bring a smile to your face. The Angela Merkel citrus juicer and the wooden TV-Tower stacking toy also make for fabulous souvenir ideas. And if you’re around on a Saturday, don’t miss Berlin’s largest weekly market on nearby Winterfeldtplatz. The finest bakers, sausage makers, cheese mongers, and fish smokers keep the locals well fed, and the mix of nonedible wares ranges from handmade jewelry to leather baby booties.

COURTESY OF MAMSELL, PYLONES, TEE TEA THÈ. WINTERFELDT SCHOKOLADEN: PHOTO BY GENE GLOVER.

Annabelle Mallia discovers that sometimes the best treasures are hiding right in your own neighborhood.

THE

NUMBER ONE IN SHOPPING, LEISURE & ENTERTAINMENT IN BERLIN

where GUIDELINES

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Every effort is made to provide accurate and updated information. However, information may be subject to last minute changes, so it is always advisable to call ahead.

ALEX A AT ALEX AN DERPL ATZ MO - SA 1 0a m - 9pm OPEN ON SU N DAYS: FOOD COU RT AN D LEISU RE AREA

INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS T: Telephone number S: S-Bahn, Above-ground train system U: U-Bahn, Underground train system MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 55-57.

18 0 S H O PS FA S H IO N , ACCESS O R IE S , E LEC TR O N IC S , BO O KS & MUCH M ORE S H O P P IN G

OPENING HOURS Opening hours may vary, so it’s best to call ahead. Shops are open Mon–Sat only, and Sunday shopping is only possible on certain Sundays of the year. This year, these are: 3 September, 1 October, 5 November, 3 December, 17 December. Groceries can be bought on Sundays at major train stations (Hauptbahnhof, Friedrichstraße, at Ullrich at Zoologischer Garten, or Ostbahnhof ). Shopping malls are open 10am–8pm and smaller stores only until 6pm. TOURIST INFORMATION VisitBerlin is the official source of information on the city. Call T: 030.25002333 for specific Berlin information, or go to www.visitberlin.de for details on all information centers, events, and sights. Tourist Info Points: Brandenburg Gate – Pariser Platz, daily 9:30am–6pm (until 7pm in summer). Hauptbahnhof – Europaplatz 1, Level 0, daily 8am–9pm. TV Tower Alexanderplatz – Panoramastr. 1a, daily 10am–4pm.

www.alexacentre.com |

become a fan of ALEXA

Make it yours.

DEPARTMENT STORES & MALLS Alexa

Selected shops for the savvy shopper

Hardcore shoppers love this mall for its sheer size, with over 180 stores spread over five levels. Highstreet retailers are well represented, and a large food court obliges when hunger overwhelms your desire to shop. www.alexacentre.com. Grunerstr. 20. T: 030.269340121. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

BIKINI BERLIN BIKINI BERLIN combines the shopping with a fun and relaxing experience. The historical building complex in Berlin's west end makes for interesting strolls, also offering beautiful views of the Berlin zoo and its animals, which can be admired both from indoors as well as from the rooftop terrace. But the main attraction is the curated selection of shops, which include individual pop-up boxes frquently showcasing new designers, popular brands, and many design stores. www.bikiniberlin. de. Budapester Str. 38-50. T: 030.55496455. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4 Your favorite designer brands with discounts up to 70 percent, at just 30 minutes from the city center. Also features cafes and restaurants, a children’s play area, free parking and more that 100 international brands. Shuttle bus from center on Fri-Sat. Bring a copy of Where Berlin to the office and get a further 10% off. Mon–Thu 10am–7pm, Fri and Sat to 8pm. www.designeroutletberlin.com. Alter Spandauer Weg 1. T: 033234.9040. Take the regional train to Elstal. Off Map

©ISTOCK

Designer Outlet Berlin

Berlin wheretraveler.com

BERLIN SQUARE FILLERS.indd 11

www.wheretraveler.com 19 10/04/2017 10:17

SHOPPING Europa Center This shopping mall on the Ku’damm offers a range of goods from over 70 shops. Check out the ingenious water clock designed by Bernard Gitton in 1982. www.europa-center-berlin.de. Tauentzienstr. 9–12. T: 030.26497940. U Kurfürstendamm, U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Galeria Kaufhof The former East German department store, renovated in 2006, showcases more than 600 exclusive brands and an exquisite gourmet section covering 35,000sq.m (377,000sq.ft) of space. www.galeria-kaufhof.de. Alexanderplatz 9. T: 030.247430. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Galeries Lafayette The Berlin branch of the exclusive Parisian department store is developed around an extraordinary glass cone. The three circular floors rise up around this centerpiece, packed with perfumes, clothing, and accessories. The food counter offers a wide range of French specialties and there’s a corner selling teas from the famed French tea house Mariage Frères. www.galerieslafayette.de. Friedrichstr. 76–78. T: 030.209480. U Französische Straße. E3

Kaufhaus des Westens (KaDeWe) The biggest and oldest department store in Germany sells only products of the highest quality. If you're short on time, the legendary gourmet food hall on the sixth floor is not to be missed. www.kadewe.de. Tauentzienstr. 21–24. T: 030.21210. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Mall of Berlin 270 shops, 270 apartments, gyms, and pedestrian areas define the new Mall of Berlin on Leipziger Platz, a world of shopping opportunities a stone’s throw from the city’s main tourist attractions. www.mallofberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 12. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Potsdamer Platz Arkaden

traditional manufacturing methods and materials. www.manufactum.de. See website for other locations. Hardenbergstr. 4. T: 030.24033844. U Ernst-Reuter-Platz. B3

FASHION Annette Görtz Inspired by geometric lines and the use of "noncolors" such as black, beige, white, and gray, fashion brand Annette Görtz combines comfort with understated elegance. www.annettegoertz. com. T: 030 20074613. Markgrafenstr. 42. U Stadtmitte. E3

This large shopping center offers more than 120 shops over three floors, stocking everything from clothes and accessories to electronics and groceries. Its restaurants and bars, both inside and in surrounding streets, also make it a very popular meeting spot. www.potsdamer-platz-arkaden.de. Alte Potsdamer Str. 7. The quiet Suarezstraße T: 030.2559270. S+U Potsdamer in Charlottenburg is the place to go for Platz. D3

CONCEPT STORES

antiques.

Herrlich

Beatrice von Tresckow

Sumptuous, elegant, somewhat extravagant. Beatrice Von Tresckow women's clothes are lively and colorful, an eye-catching addition to any wardrobe. www. beatricevontresckow.com, Leibnizstr. 60. T: 030 308318. U Adenauer Platz. C4

Be Edgy

Germany’s first concept store for men’s gifts offers unique trinkets that beat socks any day, from an old-fashioned brush-and-blade shaving set to a miniature espresso machine for en route. www. herrlich-berlin.de. Bergmannstr. 2. T: 030.7845395. U Gneisenaustraße. E5

With rule-breaking elements and a timeless soul, this Berlin-born fashion label makes perfectly cut leather jackets and a variety of accessories meant for rebellious and cheeky boys and girls. www. be.edgy.de. Bleibtreustr. 27. T: 0176.61137540. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Manufactum

Boggi Milano

Their catalogue enjoys an almost cult-like status for its German language prowess, but better still is to visit the store itself. They collect mainly household and garden goods made with

Italian elegance for men. Specializes in highquality suits that are formal while also remaining comfortable, and also carries a sport casual collection. www.boggi.com. Kurfürstendamm 195-

ADVERTORIAL

Summer Nights Imagine one of those balmy June evenings, filled with fireflies and blossoming trees and meadows. For the best season of the year, French design emporium Pylones has created a line inspired by the beauty of summer nights, with bags, key chains, stationery, kitchenware, and other design products featuring pretty flowery patterns set against the night sky. And with dozens of other patterns and many animal-inspired gadgets and design objects, Pylones is a celebration of color, nature, and joie de vivre! www.pylones. com. Schloßstr. 32/32a. T: 030 92357108. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Kurfürstendamm 225. T: 030 92362488. Mon-Sat 10am-9pm; Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 3. T: 030 80928130. Daily 10am-9pm. 20 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U N E 2017

196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

By Anne By Anne offers designer fashion from sought-after European labels such as cool Danish brand NÜ, Beate Heymann Street Couture, playful Spanish label Uno Piu Uno, and bags from By Lou Lou, together with other accessories to complement your new outfit. Unique art pieces are also on sale to help you express your individuality in the home or garden. www.byanne.de. Rosenthaler Str. 31. T: 030.28879436. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Cinque Exquisite elegance for men and women defines this label, whose products are inspired by the Italian lifestyle and Mediterranean views. www.cinque.de. Rochstr. 1. T: 030.28099999. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Cotélac The French just have that certain je ne sais quoi when it comes to style. Laid-back, breezy, comfortable, and nonetheless elegant, the Cotélac collections capture that quintessential French style in clothing and accessories for both women and men. Brand hallmarks are fine fabrics, subtle details and unique prints created with special dye and fabric techniques. Mulackstr. 6. T: 030 53604074. www.cotelac.fr. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

designer depot This boutique in Mitte offers selected designer fashion, shoes, and accessories for men and ladies at up to 50 percent off. There are more than 30 international labels such as Calvin Klein, Iceberg, Roberto Cavalli, and Valentino. www.designerdepot.net. Rochstr. 2. T: 030.28046700. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Selected shops for the savvy shopper

Finn's Mode This tiny store near Savignyplatz stocks a large variety of fashion items with a personality, for women "who know who they are and like to dress well." Brands include Piazza Sempione, Zenggi, Cambio, Le Tricot Perugia, and more, and the selection ranges from dresses and skirts to accessories like shoes and bags. www.finns-mode. de. Bleibtreustraße 47. T: 030.8832202. U Uhlandstraße B4

Client Outlet Ad Type Publication Size

- McAG - berlin - Press - Where Berlin Ad -118x124mm

Type Area - n/a Initials - GR Bleed - 3mm Scale - 100 Date - 24–01–2017 Effective DPI - >300 File Name - GL1293_0001_SS17_Press_Where Berlin Ad_118x124mm_AW

Frosch & Königin This fairytale store is filled with beautiful things – fashion from 0039 Italy, jewelry by Nicola Hinrichsen, and Day Birger Mikkelsen home accessories, to name just a few. For the woman who has kissed a lot of frogs but still believes in the big love. www.froschundkoenigin.de. Rochstr. 16. T: 030 28873734. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Goldsteg Designer Outlet This outlet store carries one-of-a-kind fashion pieces, exciting accessories and high-quality Italian leather bags by a wide range of designers. www.goldsteg.de. Carmerstr. 8. T: 030 51307933. S Savignyplatz. B4

©ISTOCK

Ganni Berlin Founded in Copenhagen, Ganni carries easy-towear pieces for women with an attitude who like to mix things up. Elegant and effortless clothing, lingerie, accessories, and shoes. www.ganni.com. Alte Schönhauser Str. 6. T: 030.27590966. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Berlin www.wheretraveler.com 21

SHOPPING Michael Kors The New York-based designer Michael Kors is known for his ready-to-wear fashion and luxury accessories – bags, watches, jewelry, shoes, and other award-winning designs. www.michaelkors. com. Kurfürstendamm 219. T: 030.81825760. U Uhlandstraße. C4; Rosenthaler Str. 37. T: 030.24088690. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

MaxMara One of the oldest and most prestigious Italian fashion houses, known for its quality craftsmanship and ready-to-wear clothing. www.maxmara.com. Friedrichstr. 184, T: 030.20074945. U Stadtmitte. E3; Kurfürstendamm 178. T: 030.8852545. U Adenauerplatz. B4

Michael Sontag The Berlin designer sets himself apart with his masterful draping techniques, creating simple yet flattering feminine silhouettes out of flowing fabrics with equal measures of elegance and sex appeal. www.michaelsontag.com. Muskauer Str. 41. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

Patrick Hellmann Among the most successful luxury brands in the fashion world, Patrick Hellmann stands for timelessness, elegant designs, quality materials, and extravagant details. There are also clothes by Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior, and Dolce & Gabbana. www.patrick-hellmann.com. Kurfürstendamm 190–192. T: 030.88487711. U Adenauerplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

Planet Berlin Described as "luxury with a touch of rock and roll," the store will have you decked out for your next glamorous night of clubbing. They stock classic labels such as Converse and Dr. Martens, as well as

Endless Cuddles With a cushion shaped as an elephant, Margarete Steiff began her success story making stuffed animals for kids more than 135 years ago. The renowned company, which supposedly holds claim to creating the original teddy bear named after US President Theodore Roosevelt, continues producing its cuddly creatures today, including longtime favorites such as Molly the dog and Petsy teddy bear. No matter how old your child, the plush toys at Steiff are sure to be cherished companions for years to come. Their motto, “for children, only the best is good enough,” means that everything they sell complies with the utmost standards of quality and safety, attested by the trademark "Knopf im Ohr" (button in ear), the brand's stamp of authenticity. Say hello to Cowaloo, Pigilee, and the other members of the Happy Farm collection, recently embraced into the adorable Steiff family. Kurfürstendamm 38. T: 030 88625006. www.steiff.com 22 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U N E 2017

new labels like Japan Rags, whose jeans for both men and women have already achieved cult status. www.planetwear.de. Schlüterstr. 35. T: 030 8852717. S Savignyplatz. B4

Strellson This Swiss company creates fashion for men who are on their way up or, as they say, for young men with big plans. Concentrating on clarity, the Strellson philosophy is based on clear cuts and top quality for their suits and other urban wears, as well as transparent values and work attitudes. www.strellson.com. Münzstr. 8. T: 030.24724042. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Rebecca Store With a unique boudoir atmosphere, this concept store is a harmonious medley of European and American designers, including Yigal Azrouel, Vera Wang, and Gas Bijoux. All items are personally selected by owner Rebecca Zehden on her many trips abroad. www.rebecca-berlin.de. Alte Schönhauser Str. 41. T: 030 34620780. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Talbot Runhof Designers Johnny Talbot and Adrian Runhof launched their label in Munich but have since gone global, branching out from glamorous evening gowns into everyday outfits and accessories. Discover the comprehensive range of dresses, separates, and knitwear, plus shoes and accessories in their Charlottenburg boutique. A brand hallmark is the complex, precise cuts and unusual seam placement used to create feminine, flattering silhouettes. Schlüterstr. 50. T: 030 23363170. www.talbotrunhof.com. U Uhlandstraße, S Savignyplatz. B4

UNIQLO Originally a chain of roadside stores in suburban

Japan, this brand quickly became an Asian sensation and has now expanded to trendy urban hubs around the globe. Their Berlin flagship store has three floors of quality basics and fashion for women, men, and children. www.uniqlo.com. Tauentzienstr. 7. T: 030 29028260. U Wittenbergplatz. C4; Leipziger Platz 16. S+U Potsdamer Platz. E3; Rosenthaler Str. 42; S Hackescher Markt. F3

Wormland This men’s boutique carries the best German and international brands, catering to a demanding man and offering a variety of styles, from classy to casual, from business to sporty. Brands include Calvin Klein, Black Kaviar, Lee Jeans, and Hugo Boss. www.wormland.de. Mall of Berlin. Direct entrance from Voßstraße. T: 030.229088200. U Mohrenstraße. E3

SHOES & ACCESSORIES AIGNER The Munich label is one of Germany’s most important leather accessory brands, combining tradition and innovation with luxury classics. Choose between handbags, belts, and luxury travel luggage, as well as gift items such as corkscrews, keyrings and backgammon boxes. www.aignermunich.com. Kurfürstendamm 50. T: 030.88683638. U Uhlandstraße. B4

bagatt Milano Bagatt epitomizes the appreciation for beauty for which Italy is known. With its core philosophy of fine Italian craftsmanship, bagatt Milano applies the highest quality standards to its collection of shoes, handbags and accessories. Browse the shelves for contemporary, comfortable looks for everyday wear or elegant heels. Email: bagattberlino@gmail.com. Bikini Berlin: Budapester Str. 38–50. T: 030 25759777. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Boots & Shoes With their air-cushioned sole, lace-up style, and yellow stitching, the popular Doc Martens boots launched in the UK in 1960 wasc based on a prototype by German army doctor Klaus Märtens. Check out many designs and colors of the famous boots at Boots & Shoes, from the classic 1460 model, to shiny blue, or floral print. Ballerinas, booties, clothing, and accessories round off the offering. www.drmartens.com. Dircksenstr. 49. T: 0800.2070700. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Falke Flagship Store This legwear shop caters to both men and women with all kinds of socks, stockings, tights, knee-highs, and anything that will keep your legs warm. They also have a good selection of sports accessories and knitwear, as well as delightful kids’ socks. www.falke.com. Kurfürstendamm 36. T: 030.88553565. U Uhlandstraße. B4; Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Str. 12. T: 030.20647995. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Michael Kors The New York-based designer Michael Kors is known for his ready-to-wear fashion and luxury accessories – bags, watches, jewelry, shoes, and other award-winning designs. www.michaelkors. com. Kurfürstendamm 219. T: 030.81825760. U Uhlandstr. C4; Rosenthaler Str. 37. T: 030.24088690. F2

mavi.com

SHOPPING

2 9 1

SUMMER SPECIALS

Summer equals bright, happy days. Match your wardrobe to your mood with these picks by Claudia Koksch.

1. Sunglasses by MYKITA, Bikini Berlin, Budapester Str. 38-50. 2. Skin-Volumizing oil serum by bareMinerals, KaDeWe Tauentzienstr. 21-24. 3. Ring by Aris Diamond, Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12. 4. Bag by Pylones, Kurfürstendamm 225. 5. Headphones by Sennheiser, Tauentzienstr. 17. 6. Shoes by AGL, KaDeWe, Tauentzienstr. 21–24, Friedrichstr. 81. 7. Dress by 0039 Italy, Schlüterstr. 51. 8. Nail polish by Catherine, Knesebeckstr. 35-37. 9. Cap by Bench, Designer Outlet, Alter Spandauer Weg 1, 14641 Wustermark. 10. Watch by Lilienthal Berlin, www.lilenthal.berlin

4 5 6

24 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U N E 2017

SIZING GUIDE SHOES

Top by IKKS Neue Schönhauser Str. 16.

CLOTHES Euro

WOMEN 3 4 5 6 7 8

5 6 7 8 9 10

WOMEN 36 37 38 39 41 42

6 8 10 12 14 16

XS S M L

MEN 7 8 9 10 11 12

Espadrille by Marc Cain, Kurfürstendamm 69.

8 9 10 11 12 13

2 4 6 8 10 12

34 36 38 40 42 44

MEN (CHEST) 41 42 43 45 46 47

34 36 38 40 42 44

S M L

CHILDREN 7 8 9 10 11 12

Euro

34 36 38 40 42 44

44 46 48 50 52 54

CHILDREN 24 25.5 27 28 29 30.5

4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10-11 12-13 14-15

4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10 12 13

110cm 116-122 128-134 140-146 152-158 164-170

New Era Flagship Store

Bodo Dilg Goldschmiede

Pylones

Looking for a new cap? This is the largest and fastest growing headwear producer in the world. There are more than 1000 styles over two floors, ranging from the classic baseball cap to modern designs, including their bestseller 59fifty, popular with the skater and hip hop crowd. www. neweracap.com. An der Spandauer Brücke 7. T: 030.27890578. Hackescher Markt. F2

A master in the jewelry field, Bodo Dilg creates unique pieces of contemporary jewelry using gold and precious stones against a backdrop of historical stucco and cement tiles. An essential stop for soon to wed partners. www.bodo-dilg.de. Grolmanstr. 30/31. T: 030 88675355. U Uhlandstraße. B4

These household products are created to add a spark to our daily lives, filling it with color and fun. The designers choose zoomorphic themes. www.pylones.com. Kurfürstendamm 225 (check website for other store locations). T: 030.92362488. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Unützer

One of the most famous brands in luxury, Rolex has been making wristwatches since 1905. First created in England, the company soon moved to Switzerland, and its perfect timepieces are recognized worldwide as the ultimate symbol of elegance and refinement. www.rolex.de. www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.55669010. U Uhlandstraße. E2

Elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacturing are what sets Unützer apart from many other shoe brands. Founded 25 years ago, this shoe label stands for elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacture. The boots, pumps, and ballerinas are all made in a small town near Venice according to the century-old Italian tradition. www. unuetzer.com. Giesebrechtstr. 10. T: 030.88916710. U Uhlandstraße. C4

Volker Lang The success story of Volker Lang started in 1983 in Hamburg, when he designed his first handbag. A functional, pure look with playful details define his style, resulting in timeless purses, handbags, and other accessories loved by their owners for years and beyond the dictates of fashion. Mulackstr. 37. T: 030.284937004. www.volker-lang-accessoires.de. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

JEWELRY & WATCHES Aris Diamond Since 1906, ARIS has been specializing in diamond jewelry, delivering everything from pendants, necklaces, and earrings, to fabulous engagement rings. Got a special occasion coming up? Check up their new shop in the Mall of Berlin for refined pieces. www.arisdiamond.com. www.mallofberlin. de. Leipziger Platz 12. U Mohrenstraße. E3

ROLEX Boutique

Wempe One of the oldest family businesses in Germany is renowned for its passion for fine jewelry and watches, and in particular for its precision timepieces and attention to detail. www.wempe. de. Kurfürstendamm 215. See website for more locations. T: 030.8826878. U Uhlandstraße. C4; Friedrichstr. 82. T: 030.20399920. U Französische Straße. E3

HOME DÉCOR Home on Earth Located in the historical Hackesche Höfe, this store offers home décor items made from natural materials combined with Scandinavian design. Founded by a German-Danish pair in Barcelona, this is the first store to hit Germany. www.homeonearth.com. Hackesche Höfe/Hof V, Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. T: 030 2834354. S Hackescher Markt F2

BEAUTY & WELLNESS Babor Specializing in beauty driven by science, Babor creates skincare solutions for every woman’s unique needs. Top-sellers at the flagship store include vitamin-rich skin serums and deluxe foundations with a lifting effect. www.babor.de. Französische Str. 48. T: 030. 20622222. U Französische Straße. E3

Catherine Nail Salon The popular Catherine nailcare brand now has a nail salon here in Berlin. Stop by or make an appointment for some grooming time between shopping and sightseeing. www.catherine-berlin.de. Knesebeck Str. 35. T: 030. 55214475. U Uhlandstraße. E3

Frau Tonis Parfum The perfume boutique offers scents inspired by the city, like Pure Violet, originally composed for Marlene Dietrich. Take a scent test to find the fragrances that suit you best or ask customize your own bottle. www.frau-tonis-parfum.com. Zimmerstr. 13. T: 030.20215310. U Kochstraße. E4

Parfumsalon An exclusive perfume boutique that has been offering fragrances for more than five decades. The shop's selection include rarities and special aromas, all hand-picked by owner and perfume expert Mario Worms. www.parfumsalon.de. Uhlandstr. 173-174. T: 030.8827306. E3 www.wheretraveler.com 25

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www.bikiniberlin.de

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More than a century of precision craftsmanship comes to the Ku'damm in the form of Germany's first Rolex Boutique. The flagship store offers a distinctive experience, including an exclusive setting and world-class service.

This exclusive perfume boutique has been offering extraordinary fragrances since the 1960s. Mario Worms is an expert in perfume counseling, offering advice on the perfect scent for every client, and the shop's selection includes rare bottles and unusual aromas. Uhlandstr. 173-174. T: 030 8827306 www.parfumsalon.de

Michael Kors is a world-renowned designer of luxury accessories and ready-to-wear, offering a lifestyle for the consummate jet setter that is as sophisticated as it is indulgent and as glamorous as it is modern. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. Kurfürstendamm 219. T: 030 81825760 www.michaelkors.com

Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030 55669010 rolexboutique.berlin@wempe.de 26 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U N E 2017

STORES BERLIN: Kurfürstendamm 36 . 10719 Berlin Tel.: (+49) Ø30 / 88 55 35 65 Leipziger Platz 12 /13 Shop 1.04 EG . 10117 Berlin Tel.: (+49) Ø30 / 20 64 79 95

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Knesebeckstr. 35-37. T: 030 55214475 www.catherine-berlin.de

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This young Berlin label stands for fashion with an attitude for both men and women. With rule-breaking contrasts and rebellious elements set against a timeless soul, Be Edgy provides young and cheeky individuals with perfectly cut leather jackets and accessories, all made with high-quality leather. Bring in discount code “whereXbeedgy” and get 10% off – valid until the end of 2017.

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Make a good first impression with beautifully manicured hands. This hotspot for hand and nail cosmetics hinges upon expert beauticians and top-quality products from the Catherine Nail Collection. Delivering to beauty salons worldwide, the brand is renowned in nail design and presents their selection now in their own studio just off Berlin’s luxury shopping strip, the Ku’damm.

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Beatrice creates opulent, bold and colorful clothes for women who like to turn heads. Sumptuous fabrics and detailed embroidery communicate Beatrice's international upbringing and form the hallmarks of the collections' jackets, blouses and dresses.

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UNÜTZER

Elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacturing are what sets Unützer apart from many other shoe brands. Founded 25 years ago, this shoe label quickly earned international fame thanks to the excellent quality of its products, which are made in a small town near Venice according to the century-old Italian tradition.

TALBOT RUNHOF Designers Johnny Talbot and Adrian Runhof launched their label in Munich but have since gone global, branching out from glamorous evening gowns into everyday outfits from dresses, separates, and knitwear to shoes and accessories. Complex, precise cuts create feminine, flattering silhouettes.

Schlüterstr. 50. T: 030 23363170 www.talbotrunhof.com 28 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U N E 2017

Gold chains, tassels, and striking colors are some of the shoes’ decorative elements, and materials include the whole range of luxury, from the finest calf leather to exotic skins, including crocodile and ostrich, all personally selected by Fritz Unützer himself. Walk into the Charlottenburg boutique, and try on a pair of boots, pumps, or ballerinas, all perfect accessories to any glamorous and feminine outfit.

Giesebrechtstr. 10/corner Kurfürstendamm. T: 030 88916710 www.unuetzer.com

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The exclusive Parisian department store brings French charm to Berlin with five floors of fashion, accessories, beauty products and delicacies. Galeries Lafayette is located in the Quartier 207, where you can shop at Butlers, Cashmere House, Le Nails, Le Tanneur, Manon Chocolaterie, Max&Co, Opera´s, and Sathea.

Friedrichstr. 76–78. T: 030 209480. galerieslafayette.de SHOP STOP

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Beauty meets science at this skincare institute. Owner and cosmetics expert Christiane Lingner offers high-level treatments such as deluxe facials, skin analyses, purifying sessions, manicures, pedicures, as well as intensive and strengthening treatments for the gentlemen. Head to the flagship store for vitamin-rich serums and foundations with a lifting effect.

Französische Str. 48. T: 030 20622222 www.babor-berlin.de

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FRAU TONIS PARFUM This perfume manufactory has been described as Berlin’s most unique perfumery. Try classics such as Linde Berlin, or Pure Violet, Marlene Dietrich’s favorite fragrance. For something more personal, join other scent aficionados from all over the world and create your own, private perfume. Zimmerstr. 13 (Checkpoint Charlie). T: 030 20215310 www.frau-tonis-parfum.com www.wheretraveler.com 29

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Selected shops for the Savvy Shopper 30 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U N E 2017

Berlin

A PLACE FOR SHOPPING ARKADEN SHOPS geöffnet Mo.–Sa., 10–21 Uhr POTSDAMERPLATZ.DE

SHOPPING MAPS SHOP STOP

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SHOP STOP

COTÉLAC The French have that certain je ne sais quoi when it comes to style. Laid-back, breezy, comfortable, and nonetheless elegant, the Cotélac collections are created by Raphaëlle Cavalli and capture that quintessential French style in clothing and accessories for both women and men. Brand hallmarks are special dyes and folding techniques, inlays, unique prints, and exquisite detail when it comes to treating fabrics.

www.cotelac.fr

With over 100 boutiques in France and abroad, you can check out the latest Spring-Summer 2017 collection in their store on Mulackstraße, Berlin’s so-called designer central.

Mulackstr. 6. T: 030 53604074 www.cotelac.fr

SHOP STOP

PROMOBO Pick up something totally unique at Promobo, a shop concept dedicated to fun, offbeat, eyecatching design objects. Many of the home décor items, fashion, and gifts are made in small workshops around Germany using recycled materials.

Rosenthalerstr. 40–41, Hackesche Höfe 3 & 5. T: 030 30347671 www.promobo.de

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Alte Schönhauser Str. 41. T: 030 34620780 www.rebecca-berlin.de SHOP STOP

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VOLKER LANG STORE

Barcelona-founded Home on Earth offers products combining sustainability and Nordic design, each produced without wasting any resources. Using almost exclusively natural materials such as bamboo, wool, coconut, mango and hemp. The store opened its first branch in Germany in December 2015.

Accessory heaven in Mulackstraße. The brand VOLKER LANG has been known for more than 30 years for its colorful leather accessories. The Berlin branch opened on Mulackstraße in 2009 and has been showcasing the label's renowned waiter wallets and leather bags ever since. Mon–Fri 12pm–7pm, Sat 11:30am–6:30pm.

Hackesche Höfe/Hof V, Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. www.homeonearth.com

Mulackstr. 37. T: 030 28493704 www.volkerlang.de

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With a unique boudoir atmosphere, this concept store is a harmonious medley of European and American designers, including Alexander Wang, Vera Wang, Tibi and Alice+Olivia, and all items are personally selected by owner Rebecca Zehden on her many trips abroad.

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NEW ERA FLAGSHIP STORE Looking for a new cap? The world's leading headwear brand is now the official headwear of the NBA. Check out the latest New Era NBA collection at the New Era store in Berlin.

An der Spandauer Brücke 7. T: 030 27890578 de.neweracap.eu

SAND WASH SUN-BLEACHED SUMMER

SIGHTSEEING | THE GUIDE

A room of the Knoblauchhaus. Inset, below: Kitchen corner at Knoblauchhaus.

Reliving Residential History It's easy to forget it, considering the significance of Berlin’s 20th century, but the capital is actually well over seven centuries old. Berlin saw rapid growth beginning in the late 18th century, and as a result, many of its houses and apartments are windows to Berlin’s past. During the Biedermeier Era, the arts and the middle class flourished. The Knoblauchhaus (www.stadtmuseum.de) was built during this time in 1761, and for nearly 170 years, it was the silk merchant Knoblauch family’s residence and commercial base. Today, the restored Knoblauchhaus is one of the few remaining houses from the 18th century, offering a glimpse into the everyday lives of an uppermiddle-class merchant family. A century later, Fritz Heyn, another wealthy industrialist, had a house built for his family. Built in 1893, the Pankow residence had ornately painted ceilings with elaborate plaster molding, ceramic heating ovens, and a tiled bathroom, which was a luxury in the late 19th 34 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U N E 2017

century. After Heyn’s death, his daughters lived in the apartment until 1972, retaining most of the original interior and furnishings. Now, as part of the Museum Pankow, the Heynstraße 8 apartment (T: 030 4814047) is an authentic peek into the upper middle class during the

turn of the 20th century. On the other side of the coin was the working class, and the apartment at Dunckerstraße 77 in Prenzlauer Berg depicts the working person’s domestic life. The apartment, also run by the Museum Pankow, compares and contrasts the living conditions of the working class who lived in the Vorderhaus, built directly facing the street, and the Hinterhaus, apartments in the inner courtyards where the largest families lived. Call 030 4452321 to book a tour. For those partial to the Neo-Gothic style, the apartment building at Bleibtreustraße 15 (viewable from the outside) is especially evocative of medieval splendor. The embellished wooden doors give way to a beautiful, Neo-Gothic foyer with tall stained glass windows, intricate metalwork, a painted ceiling, and carved animals on the stair banisters. Built in 1902, this complex was designed to be one of Berlin’s most luxurious, and still remains visually so.

COURTESY OF KNOBLAUCHHAUS, STADTMUSEUM BERLIN.

Serene Tseng steps into preserved, centuries-old apartments to experience how the different social classes in Berlin lived in the past.

FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

MAJOR SIGHTS The “Alex” TV Tower The 368m- (1027ft)-high TV tower of Alexanderplatz can be seen from almost any point in the city and has been iconic of Berlin ever since it was built by the GDR in 1969. The giant steel-clad sphere atop houses a revolving restaurant and café as well as a viewing platform. The elevator ride lasts 40 seconds. Arrive early to avoid lines. Daily 9am–midnight (Nov–Feb from 10am). €13/8.50. www.tv-turm.de. Panoramastr. 1a. T: 030.24757537. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Brandenburg Gate MUST SEE The definitive Berlin icon, Carl Gotthard Langhans’ Neoclassical triumphal arch has witnessed the city’s best and worst moments, from the military parades of the Third Reich to the Wall being raised and torn down. Formerly behind GDR borders, today the gate acts mainly as the backdrop for festivals, New Year’s Eve parties, and tourist snapshots. U Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3

Charlottenburg Palace The summer home of Sophie Charlotte, wife of King Friedrich I of Prussia, reflects the grandeur of the Hohenzollern family. Begun in 1695, the luxury Baroque complex consists of a main building with a central cupola and two side wings, added in later years, that enclose a courtyard. The picturesque park surrounding the castle includes a formal French-style garden, English garden with pond and statues, belvedere, and mausoleum. The castle hosts temporary art and history exhibitions. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm). €12/8. www.spsg.de. Spandauer Damm 20-24. T: 030.9694200. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche The church’s bombed-out bell tower has been an anti-war memorial and symbol of West Berlin ever since its ruins were restored to their present state in 1957. The old church now hosts an exhibition of before-and-after photos documenting its and Ku'damm's former splendor. Inside, look up to admire what remains of the old mosaic. Daily 9am–7pm. www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. Breitscheidplatz. T: 030.2185023. U Zoologischer Garten, Kurfürstendamm. C4

mall; and the Manhattan-style Beisheim Center building. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Reichstag and Foster’s Glass Cupola MUST SEE In the last 100 years, the massive neo-Renaissance building, now the seat of German Parliament, has been bombed, set on fire, wrapped by artist Christo, and renovated by Lord Norman Foster. Climb the glass cupola for a 360-degree view of the city, then gaze down at parliament in session. The plenary hall can be visited only on guided tours. Cupola: Daily 8am–midnight by appointment only. Free. Register on website; it is recommended to do so at least three days prior to your visit. Audio tours available. www.bundestag.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030.22732152. U Bundestag. D3/E3

HISTORIC SITES Asisi’s Wall Panorama Yadegar Asisi created a panorama of divided Berlin, presenting everyday life against the backdrop of the Wall on an imaginary day in the 1980s. The artist's aim was to show how the population came to terms with the situation, and the result gives onlookers a glimpse of East German life. Daily 10am–6pm. €10/4. www.asisi.de. Friedrichstr. 205. T: 0341.3555340. U Kochstraße. E3/E4

Berlin Wall Documentation Center MUST SEE Walk along one of the few surviving stretches of the Berlin Wall in an area of the city where its impact was particularly dramatic, then delve into its storied history at the documentation center. Documents and original radio broadcasts from both East and West chronicle one of

Germany’s saddest historical periods. Open-air exhibition: 8am-10pm daily; documentation center: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. Free. www.berliner-mauergedenkstaette.de. Bernauer Str. 111. U Bernauer Straße. E2

Checkpoint Charlie During the Cold War, Checkpoint Charlie was the main gateway between East and West. Shortly after the Wall went up, US and Soviet tanks faced each other on this spot. Today, the crossing point acts primarily as a backdrop for tourist photographs. U Kochstraße, U Stadtmitte. E3/E4

East Side Gallery While West Berliners loved to express their creativity by drawing graffiti and painting on the Wall, East Berliners were never allowed to use the dividing structure as a canvas. To make up for all the artless years, artists from 21 countries were called upon in 1990 to decorate one mile of the Wall's eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery. Mühlenstraße. S+U Warschauer Straße, S Ostbahnhof. G4

Holocaust Memorial MUST SEE Berlin’s tribute to the victims of the Holocaust is as big as a soccer field and consists of 2711 tombstone-like slabs of equal size and varying heights, placed on uneven ground to convey a sense of claustrophobia and disorientation. The underground information center provides a timeline of Jewish persecution. Accessible 24 hours a day. Free. www.holocaust-mahnmal.de. Cora-Berliner Straße. T: 030.2639430. U Brandenburger Tor. E3

ADVERTORIAL

Nikolaiviertel and Knoblauchhaus The Nikolaiviertel is where Berlin was born, and the area still retains its ancient character, although most of the buildings in the narrow medieval alleys are replicas of destroyed originals that dated back to the 1200s. The late-Gothic Nikolaikirche, Berlin’s oldest surviving building, is now a museum. Other points of interest include the Ephraim Palais Museum and the Biedermeierstyle Knoblauchhaus, a 19th-century middleclass townhouse that escaped WWII damage. Knoblauch Haus: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. www.knoblauchhaus.de. Poststr. 23. T: 030.240020171. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Potsdamer Platz Before the war, Potsdamer Platz was the city’s beating heart, with department stores, banks, internationally known theaters, dance halls, and cafés. WWII bombs obliterated 80 percent of the square, which was left in limbo for a few years and then enclosed in a no-man’s-land between the Wall and barbed wire fences. The square came back to life in the 1990s as a modern reinterpretation of its original self. Divided in three slices, it includes the Sony building with its central plaza; Daimler City, home to a large shopping

The Wall Museum Thirteen rooms organized by theme, 100 TV screens showing historic videos and documentaries, and a high-tech, multimedia exhibition define the Wall Museum. Situated right next to the East Side Gallery, this museum walks visitors along the timeline of German division history, from the end of WWII to the fall of the Berlin Wall, bringing to life the stories and destinies of many who lived behind the Iron Curtain. The museum is also the starting point for an exciting Segway tour along the Wall trail, organized by CooL Tourings (p. 36). Mühlenstr. 78-80. www.thewallmuseum.com, www.seg-berlin-ways.de.

www.wheretraveler.com 35

SIGHTSEEING AUSSICHTSPUNKT CAFÉ VIEWING POINT Topographie des Terrors MUST SEE On the site of the former headquarters

of the SS and the Third Reich’s most important offices, this permanent exhibition recounts the tragic history of Nazi forced labor, focusing on the central institutions of the SS and Third Reich police and the crimes they committed throughout Europe. A segment of the Wall runs along the grounds. Daily 10am–8pm. Free. www. topographie.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 8. T: 030.2545090. U Kochstraße. E4

The Wall Museum Located right next to East Side Gallery, the Wall Museum recounts the history of the Berlin Wall through historic videos and documentaries. Thtough this multimedia exhibition, visitors get a glimpse of life behind the Iron Curtain. www. wallmuseum.com. Mühlenstr. 78-80. S Warschauer Straße. E2/F2

KIDS & FAMILIES Berlin Zoo and Aquarium

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MUST SEE One of the city’s main attractions and the oldest zoo in Germany includes pavilions that provide ample indoor space, making the venue suitable for rainy days. The zoo boasts the largest number of species and total animal residents in the world. The aquarium, one of the largest in Europe, features large tanks with piranhas, sharks, and alligators. Daily 9am–6:30pm. Zoo or aquarium: €14.50/7.50, under-4s free. Combined ZooAquarium ticket: €20/10. www.aquarium-berlin.de, www.zoo-berlin.de Hardenbergplatz 8. T: 030.254010. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Currywurst Museum Learn about Berlin’s most famous street food at this small but entertaining museum. Delve into Currywurst history, discover the secrets of its yellow sauce in the "spice chamber," and watch movies starring the delicious sausage. Daily 10am–8pm. €11/7, under-6s free. www.currywurstmuseum.de. Schützenstr. 70. T: 030.88718647. U Kochstraße. E4

TOURS & GUIDED WALKS Berliner Unterwelten (Underground Tours)

handlebars, and, obviously, fat tires. Tour themes vary. The all-in-one city bike tour is particularly popular. Times vary seasonally. Call ahead in winter. From €25. www.fattirebiketours.com. Panoramastr. 1a.T: 030.24047991.

Trabi World For a quintessential Berlin tour experience, hop inside real Trabants, the iconic cars of the former GDR. Visitors drive their personal Trabis, while, via the car’s radio, the group leader provides historical and quirky facts. Three different tours available, lasting one or two hours. €30-50. www. trabi-world.de. Zimmerstr. 97. T: 030.30201030. orate one mile of the Wall's eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery. Mühlenstraße. S+U Warschauer Straße, S Ostbahnhof. G4

POTSDAM Biosphäre Potsdam This tropical indoor garden features a greenhouse with more than 20,000 plants, including a palm grove and mangrove swamp, as well as animals such as iguanas, parrots, geckos, frogs, and butterflies. Daily Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, from 10am on weekends and holidays. €11.50/9.80. Under-3s free. www.biosphaere-potsdam.de. Georg-HalemannAllee 99. T: 0331.550740. Tram 96 from Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

Filmpark Babelsberg In the early 1900s, the Babelsberg film studios produced some of the most important films of the silent era, including Metropolis, until the facilities were taken over by the Nazi regime to produce political propaganda. Today, the studios are still in use, but part of the complex has been turned into a theme park, with old sets, stuntmen, special effects, and children’s sections dedicated to popular TV characters. Daily 10am–6pm from April to October, closed Mon in May and on Mon and Tues in September, on 6 and 13 October. €21/14, under-4s free. www.filmpark-babelsberg.de. Grossbeerenstr., Potsdam-Babelsberg. T: 0331.7212750. S Griebnitzsee. Off Map

Sanssouci MUST SEE The sumptuous Rococo castle of Potsdam's Sanssouci was commissioned in 1745 by Frederick the Great, who wanted "a place to be without cares." The king of Prussia employed the finest architects of the day to design the Baroque park, the Schloß placed above terraced vineyards, the more sober New Palace, and a few other pavilions scattered in the park. Daily 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm); Mon closed. €15/11. www.spsg. de. An der Orangerie 1, Potsdam. T: 0331.9694200. S Potsdam or regional train from Zoologischer Garten to Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

Since 1997, the Berlin Underworlds Association has been offering regular tours of underground structures and subterranean complexes that are otherwise inaccessible. Cold War nuclear shelters, Hitler’s underground fortress, escape routes to the West, and WWII bunkers are just some of the adventures on offer. From €10. www. berliner-unterwelten.de. Brunnenstr. 105. T: 030.49910517.

RIVER TRIPS

CooLTourings Segway Tours

Exclusiv Yachtcharter

Covering Berlin’s top 20 sightseeing highlights, CooLTourings takes individual visitors or large groups on an exciting ride aboard a Segway human transporter, a fun and fast way to explore the city. www.seg-berlin-ways.de. T: 030.26321381.

This boat tour company offers yacht and luxury boat tours around Berlin, including a bridge tour and many different cruises through Berlin’s network of canals and lakes. www.exclusivyachtcharter.de. T: 030.43666836.

Potsdamer Platz 1 - 10785 Berlin

Fat Tire Bike Tours

www.panoramapunkt.de

Comfort comes first on Fat Tire Tours, whose company concept was created around its curvy bicycles with soft seats, individually adjusted

Choose from 30 different boat tours along the city’s rivers and canals, including bus-boat combination tours of the Brandenburg region. buchung.sternundkreis.de. T: 030.5363600.

Öffnungszeiten / Opening hours: Plattform: 10:00-20:00 Café: 11:00-19:00 Letzte Auffahrt / Last elevator ride: 19:30 Im Winter verkürzt / Shorter opening hours during winter

36 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U N E 2017

Stern und Kreis Schiffahrt

THE GUIDE | MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Mrs. Topfel and her grandson René in their one-room apartment, Harf Zimmermann 1986. Inset, below: Club Allegro Fortissimo, Paris 1990, William Klein.

Color In A Sea Of Gray C/O BERLIN: PHOTO BY HARF ZIMMERMANN; PAINTED CONTACT: © WILLIAM KLEIN 2001.

Photography can take you where nothing else can. Serene Tseng and Solveig Steinhardt visited two different photo exhibitions at C/O Berlin . Who knew that deep in the endless stretches of East Berlin's gray existed a vibrant, curiously bourgeois enclave? Located in Prenzlauer Berg, Hufelandstraße stretches for one kilometer atop old cobblestones, Gründerzeit-era houses, and linden trees flanking the sidewalk. In the mid-1980s, photographer Harf Zimmermann went from house to house and from resident to resident to document the street and its inhabitants, capturing the flourishing enclave in what he didn't know would be the last days of socialism. His black-and-white images of unrepaired, crumbling exteriors, still riddled with WWII bullet holes, stand in stark contrast to the color-infused interiors and home life of the intellectuals, artists, musicians, party officials, and even piano makers that lived on

Hufelandstraße. The photographs, exposed at C/O Berlin (p. 40) until 2 July in Hufelandstraße. 1055 Berlin, give us a glimpse of a GDR we are not used to imagining, one we can hardly fathom by visiting the street today, since almost all the old residents have moved out and the buildings have been renovated in one of the city's quickest gentrification processes of the last 25 years. To see more of the world, step into the next room to see William Klein, Photographs and Films, showcasing more than 300 large photos, vintage prints, and videos by William Klein. Over more than 60 years of career, the American photographer experimented with

photography and video to portray people and fashion in the streets of Paris, Moscow, Rome, and New York. Thanks to his direct voice, which differed from the aesthetically driven style of the 1950s, his work reveals unexpected perspectives, recounting both the beauty and the ugliness of his chosen subjects. Scenes of New York life, city traffic, advertising billboards, and big cars convey his view of New York, portrayed as a dark, oppressive place, but the real focus of the show is on Klein's ability to create an interaction between photography and film, showing that artistic expression can go beyond the boundaries of the medium. www.wheretraveler.com 37

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

MUSEUMS Altes Museum Berlin’s collection of classical antiquities, housed inside a breathtaking Neoclassical building. Take in the mosaic floor of Hadrian’s villa, a wealth of Greek sculptures, and a number of Etruscan and Roman finds. To 18 Jun: Dangerous Perfection: Antique grave-vases from Apulia. Featuring 13 largescale vases from the indigenous population of southern Italy 2,500 years ago. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www. smb.museum. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Alte Nationalgalerie A splendorous collection of 19th-century art. To 30 Jul: Small Masterpieces features masterpieces small and miniature in size. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6 with exhibition, €10/5 museum only. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1–3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Bode Museum An extensive collection of Old Masters’ paintings, a section dedicated to ancient coins, and many works of Roman and Byzantine art adorn the museum’s impressive interior, built by Ernst von Ihne in 1904. From 16 Jun: Syria Antiqua – Coins and Monuments on Museum Island. Showcasing coins from ancient Syria and artefacts of its prowess. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.smb.museum. Am Kupfergraben. T: 030.266424242. U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Bröhan Museum Starting in 1966, collector Karl Bröhan amassed hundreds of Art Nouveau and Art Deco objects and various paintings from the Berlin Secessionist movement. Browse through pieces of furniture, housewares, ceramics, and glassware from this fascinating artistic period. To 23 Jul: Kieser, Posters. Celebrating the innovations of one of Germany’s most prolific graphic designers. Open Tue–Sun 10am–6pm www.broehan-museum.de. Schloßstr. 1a. T: 030.32690600. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

history from the Roman occupation of the Germanic areas to the present day. From 23 Jun: The Invention of Press Photography. Following the history of photography, told through the Ullstein press photo collection and the Berliner Illustrierte Zeitung. Daily 10am–6pm. €8/4 (under-18s free). www.dhm.de. Unter den Linden 2. T: 030.203040. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Deutsches Technikmuseum

intentionally shrouded in mystery. To 28 Aug: Read Simone de Beauvoir! A question on the discussion of post-gender equality and women’s empowerment. From 16 Jun: Winckelmann – The Divine Gender. Celebrating the influential and mysterious art historian Johann J. Winckelmann’s 300th birthday. Sun–Mon, Wed–Fri 2–6pm, Thu 2–8pm, Sat 2–7pm. €6/4. www.schwulesmuseum.de. Lützowstr. 73. T: 030.69599050. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

Jewish Museum MUST SEE At the museum for all things MUST SEE Daniel Libeskind’s technology, the old locomotives and architectural jewel, shaped as a aviation rooms are the most deconstructed Star of David, explores popular attractions, while a millennia of German Jewish history, Rosinenbomber, a 1948 Berlin Berlin has more than 440 including the alternating glories and Airlift aircraft, is mounted on the contemporary art persecutions of the community. To 2 galleries, which makes museum’s roof. A hands-on Jul: Cherchez la femme. Wig, Burqa, it the number one section allows kids to conduct Wimple. Presenting the opinions of gallery city in all of experiments. To 2 Jul: Oceans – An Europe. head and body covering, contrasted Expedition in Unexplored Depths. with current fashion, religion, and the Featuring photographs of the enormous secular. Daily 10am–8pm, Mon until 10pm. blue world. To 9 Jul: 100 Years of Zündapp: €8/3. www.jmberlin.de. Lindenstr. 9-14. Industrial Photos by Albert Renger-Patzsch. A glimpse T: 030.25993300. U Hallesches Tor, into the German motorcycle giant’s factory and U Kochstraße. E4 Germany’s industrial history. Mon–Fri 9am– 5:30pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €8/4. www.sdtb.de. Trebbiner Str. 9. T: 030.902540. U Möckernbrücke, U Gleisdreieck. E4

The Gay Museum (Schwules Museum) One of the world’s largest and most significant institutions for archiving, researching, and communicating the history and culture of LGBTQ communities. Changing exhibitions take diverse approaches to lesbian, gay, transgender, bisexual, and queer biographies and concepts in history, art, and culture. To 5 Jun: The Lightest Shade of Aflatoon. Focusing on queer refugees’ works and perspectives. To 26 Jun: Siegfried Wagner: Bayreuth’s ‘Fairy’ Crown Prince. A rare insight into the life of Siegfried Wagner, whose life was controversial and

Martin-Gropius-Bau MUST SEE One of the city’s best art and photography exhibition spaces and an important example of early 20th-century architecture, the imposing building combines Italian Renaissance elements with local features, such as mosaics of allegorical figures. To 11 Jun: Frederick Kiesler: Architect, Artist, Visionary. Rediscovered Modern I. Exploring the universality of the avant garde artist’s work in 20th century architecture and art history. To 5 Nov: The Luther Effect. Protestantism – 500 Years in the World. Honoring the Reformation’s 500th anniversary, telling the story of its legacy worldwide. To 3 Jul: Juergen Teller. Enjoy Your Life! Featuring 250 works of one of the most sought-

Founded in Dresden in 1905, the Die Brücke movement drew inspiration from primitive art and expressed extreme emotion and political opposition through lively, exaggerated color. Features the paintings of such artists as Emil Nolde and Erich Heckel. To 3 Sep: The Artists of Die Brücke – Paintings, Illustrations, and Prints. An interchanging selection of prints and paintings, in celebration of the museum’s 50th anniversary. Wed–Mon 11am–5pm. €5/3. www.bruecke-museum.de. Bussardsteig 9. T: 030.8312029. U Oskar-Helene-Heim. Off Map

DDR Museum Learn about daily life in the former East Germany at this hands-on museum. Closets filled with GDR (DDR in German) fashion and a Trabant (the GDR car) are just some of the items on display, while photographs illustrate Communist habits, such as collectively potty-training babies or going on nudist holidays. Mon–Sun 10am–8pm, Sat until 10pm. €7/4. www.ddr-museum.de. KarlLiebknecht-Str. 1. T: 030.847123731. S Hackescher Markt, U Alexanderplatz. E3

Deutsches Historisches Museum MUST SEE Learn about the milestones in German

38 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U N E 2017

Songbird, Fly High And Far In post-Apartheid South Africa, Kemang Wa Lehulere represents a new generation of artists using multiple mediums and formats to remember the destruction and repression of that era. A recurring motif in his work is the bird, which symbolizes the yearning for freedom and the voices that were silenced during Apartheid. In an effort to prevent older creatives from being forgotten and fading away, Wa Lehulere fuses the old with the new by reinterpreting works by older black South African artists, including those by Gladys “Bird Lady” Mgudlandlu, who similarly used the bird extensively in her art. Wa Lehulere is Deutsche Bank’s Artist of the Year, and his first solo exhibition, Bird Song, will be showing at the Deutsche Bank Kunsthalle (p. 40) until 18 June.

BIRD SONG: © DEUTSCHE BANK KUNSTHALLE.

Brücke Museum

after music and fashion photographers. Wed–Mon 10am–7pm. Prices vary by exhibition. www.gropiusbau.de. Niederkirchnerstr. T: 030.254860. U Kochstraße. E4

Menschen Museum The internationally popular touring exhibition Body Worlds showcased anatomist Gunther von Hagens’ plastination process, which preserves body parts and reveals their inner structures. The permanent Berlin exhibition shows 200 body parts amd 20 whole-body preparations, focusing on specific organs and diseases. Daily 10am–7pm. www.memu.berlin. Panoramaplatz 1. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

For Explorers!

Museum Berggruen MUST SEE A can’t-miss for Picassophiles. The Spanish painter is the star of this Charlottenburg museum, which boasts dozens of rooms filled with his paintings. The collection encompasses 75 years of his life and all of his creative phases. Expanded in 2013, the museum also features many famous works by Matisse, Klee, Giacometti, Van Gogh, Cézanne, and many more. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 1. T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Museum of Photography Diverse and comprehesive exhibitions curated from the Berlin Art Library’s vast photographic collection are housed in a Neoclassical 1909 building built for the Prussian army’s officer corps, whose lower two floors are occupied by the Helmut Newton Foundation. To 2 Jul: ‘The Field Has Eyes…’: Images of the Surveillant Gaze. A presentation of surveillance, from the 16th to 20th century. To 2 Jul: Watching You, Watching Me. A Photographic Response to Surveillance. Raising important questions of the blurred lines between public and private in our surveillance culture. Tue– Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 11am– 6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.266424242. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3–C4

Museum für Naturkunde Home to the world’s largest dinosaur skeleton, the natural history museum also features extensive collections of shells, insects, and prize-winning mounted animal dioramas. To June: Macaws. Examines the threatened South American bird species and sustainable conservation in our globalized world. To 30 Jun: 8 Museums 8 Objects presents the fossils and milestones in the research done by the Leibniz research museums. Tue–Fri 9:30–6pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3. www. naturkundemuseum-berlin. Invalidenstr. 43. T: 030.20938591. U Naturkundemuseum. E2

Trebbiner Str. 9, 10963 Berlin www.sdtb.de /deutschestechnikmuseum

MÄRKISCHES MUSEUM

BERLIN 1937 IN THE SHADOW OF TOMORROW

Neues Museum MUST SEE The 3300-year-old bust of Queen Nefertiti is the museum’s top attraction. Examine a world-famous Egyptian collection that includes many important papyruses, while hundreds of artifacts relate early human history. Badly damaged during WWII and left abandoned until the 1980s, the museum reopened in 2009. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www. neues-museum.de. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Pergamon Museum

04.05.2017 – 14.01.2018 www.en.stadtmuseum.de/berlin-1937

One of Berlin’s main attractions, the Pergamon houses the outcome of Germany’s early-20thcentury archeology excavations. The imposing www.wheretraveler.com 39

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

The world‘s first

Ishtar Gate of Babylon with its glazed blue bricks is a feast for the eyes, as are the Market Gate from Myletus, the reconstructed interiors of an Assyrian palace, and many other testimonies to the ancient world. Altar room closed for restoration through 2019. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. S Hackescher Markt. E3

museum

Durchführung: Institut für Plastination e.K., Heidelberg

The German Spy Museum

Alexanderplatz Directly at the TV Tower

Delve into the world of espionage with two floors of interactive exhibits covering some 3500 years of espionage history. Highlights include presentations on James Bond and other famous fictitious spies and a laser maze that tests your agility to break into – or out of – compromising locations. €12/8. Daily 10am-8pm. www.deutschesspionagemuseum.de. Leipziger Platz 9. S+U Potsdamer Platz E3

ART GALLERIES Berlinische Galerie

% www.MeMu.berlin

A modern art collection of 5000+ works of German and Eastern European paintings. To 11 Sep: Faraway Focus – Photographers Go Travelling (1880-2015). Photography as a way to explore the other and unfamiliar around the world. To 9 Oct: Christine Streuli – Works by the Fred-Theieler-Prize 2017 recipient. To 21 Aug: John Bock. Bock’s work celebrates the absurdity in the world. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm. €8/5 (€10/7 during exhibitions). www. berlinischegalerie.de. Alte Jakobstr. 124-128. T: 030.78902600. U Hallesches Tor. E4

C/O Berlin MUST SEE Contemporary art and photography has finally reopened in the Amerika Haus, which housed the American library during the Cold War era. To 2 Jul: Harf Zimmermann. Hufelandstraße. Zimmermann’s documentation of the strangely bourgeois quarter in the middle of East Berlin. To 2 Jul: William Klein. Photographs and Films. A retrospective of the venerable artist, highlighting his fashion photography and films Daily 11am–8pm. €10/5. www.co-berlin.org Hardenbergstr. 22–24. T: 030.28444160. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Dalí – The Exhibition The permanent exhibit features more than 400 works, most from private collections, by the Surrealist painter, with a focus on drawing, illustration, and film. Dalí fans explore new perspectives of the artist’s life and work. Daily noon–8pm (10am–8pm in summer). €12.50. www. daliberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 7. Toll number: 0700.3254237546. U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Deutsche Bank KunstHalle With an emphasis on paper and photography, the Deutsche Bank’s art collection is a stroll along the timeline of modern art. Every year, the bank pays tribute to young artists by organizing an international prize. To 18 Jun: Kemang Wa Lehulere: Bird Song. The Artist of the Year presents his first solo exhibition, with works centering on black South African history Daily 10am–8pm. €4/3. www.deutsche-bank-kunsthalle.de. Unter den Linden 13/15. T: 030.2020930. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Gemäldegalerie – Old Masters Painting Gallery MUST SEE One of the finest collections of European art from the 13th to the 18th centuries. Lots of Dutch and Flemish painters, including

40 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U N E 2017

Rembrandt and Vermeer, and a vast collection of Italian Renaissance art, including Botticelli, Titian, and Canaletto. To 25 Jun: The Charm of the Small. Studies of Nature in Holland’s Golden Age. Featuring 27 scientific drawings of the natural world. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Matthäikirchplatz 50. T: 030.266424242. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

finest and worth a visit on its own. For an unusual yoga class, try Yoga Amidst the Art, offered Wed 9-10:30am. To 5 Jun: MISSING Der Turm Der Blauen Pferde By Franz Marc. Contemporary artists explore the fate of the missing Expressionism painting. Open Tue–Sun 11am–6pm. €7/5. www. hausamwaldsee.de. Argentinische Allee 30. T: 030.8018935. U Krumme Lanke. Off Map

Georg-Kolbe-Museum

CL904 MUST SEE The former summer residence of artist Max Liebermann, co-founder and head of the German Secessionist movement. Before being dismissed and banned by the Nazis in 1933, Liebermann painted around 200 works in this villa, some of which are on display in his studio on the upper floor. €3 plus museum entry. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm (11am–5pm in winter). €7/4 (€6/4 in summer). www.liebermann-villa.de. Colomierstr. 3. T: 030.80585900. S Wannsee. Off Map

Hamburger Bahnhof The permanent collection of this former railway station includes a selection of works from the Friedrich Christian Flick Collection, and the many temporary exhibitions focus on painting and sculpture from the past 50 years, as well as videos, music, and design. To 3 Sep: Adrian Piper. The Probable Trust Registry: The Rules of the Game #1-3. An intimately interactive installation of promises and principles. To 17 Sep: moving is in every direction. Environments – Installations – Narrative Spaces. To 17 Sep: Rudolf Belling. Sculptures and Architectures. Highlighting the oeuvre of the classical modernism sculptor. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €14/7. www.hamburgerbahnhof. de. Invalidenstr. 50-51. T: 030.266424242. U Naturkundemuseum, S Hauptbahnhof. D2

Haus am Waldsee

FRIEDRICH WASMANN, PAUL, MARIA UND FILOMENA VON PUTZER, 1840. ÖL AUF LEINWAND, 37 X 49 CM. STAATLICHE MUSEEN ZU BERLIN, NATIONALGALERIE. FOTO: ANDRES KILGER

Since 1946, this Zehlendorf villa has organized contemporary art exhibitions that cover a wide spectrum of media and styles. Each show is complemented by events – lectures, concerts, and performances – for children and adults. The multi-sensory sculpture garden is one of the city’s

l museum Internatiotna exhibition permanen

(worth

2,80€)

open daily:

Mon - Sun 12 p.m. - 8 p.m. July + August 10 a.m. - 8 p.m. (24th December closed)

me Collectors Room Thomas Olbricht created this space to bring together other international art collectors and to organize exhibitions, workshops, and concerts. The upper floor houses his “cabinet of curiosities.” To 27 Aug: Sigmar Polke – The Editions. Highlighting 200 works from the notable contemporary photographer and painter. Tue–Sun noon–6pm. €8/4. www.me-berlin.com. Auguststr. 68. T: 030.86008510. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Commercial Galleries Subjectobject – Art Involvement, opening 1 Jun: Group show. Grunewaldstr. 79. www. subjectobject.de. Michael Reid Berlin, opening 1 Jun: Ham Durroch, Joan Ross. Ackerstr. 163. www.michaelreid.com.au. Janinebeangallery, opening 3 Jun: Lori Field. Torstr. 154. www. janinebeangallery.com. JRGallery, opening 10 Jun: Thomas Baumgärtel, Harald Klemm: Joint works. Goethestr. 81. www.jrgallery.de. Galerie Eigenheim, opening 15 Jun: Group show. Linienstr. 130. www.galerie-eigenheim.de. 5. Galerie Eigenheim, opening 15 Jun: Group show of artists represented by the gallery: Linienstr. 130. www.galerie-eigenheim.de.

Potsdamer Platz entrance: Leipziger Platz 7 Hômmage á S. Dalí by DaVial

An idyllic garden houses the former studio of German Secessionist artist Georg Kolbe, who used the human body as an expression of the human spirit, challenging the role of sculpture as a representation of mythological or heroic symbolism. The museum displays a wide selection of works and hosts frequent exhibitions. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3. www.georg-kolbe-museum.de. Sensburger Allee 25. T: 030.3042144. S Heerstraße. Off Map

Liebermann Villa on Lake Wannsee

Infos: 0700 - 325 423 75**| Tickets: www.DaliBerlin.de

(**0,14€/ Min. from a landline, mobile communications vary, max 0,42€/ Min.) *only in combination with the entrance fee. Cannot be combined with other offers. Valid until June, 30th 2017.

With over 450 exhibits from private collections this permanent exhibition provides general insight into Dalí’s virtuous mastery in almost all art techniques in Berlin’s lively city centre.

www.daliberlin.de

From the Middle Ages to Metropolis Germany from all Ages Until 30 July, admire the beauty of little things at Small Masterpieces at the Alte Nationalgalerie (p. 38), featuring sketches, miniatures, and paintings in small formats.

Permanent Exhibition | Daily 10 am–6 pm ww.dhm.de

www.wheretraveler.com 41 DHM_AZ_Bismarck_Metropolis_57x124_WhereBerlin_45L.indd 09.05.17 2 15:43

DINING | THE GUIDE

Outdoor seating at Stone Brewing.

Bring On Biergarten Season There are few summer pleasures greater than enjoying a cool beer and a tasty bite in a lively Biergarten, with the sun shining overhead and a gentle breeze stirring the trees. Indeed, it’s such a beloved local pastime that Berlin has a beer garden abundance. The ones worth seeking out, however, are those that deliver on good drinks, food, and ambiance in equal measure. Everyone knows classic spots like Prater (Kastanienallee 7-9, www.pratergarten.de), a perennial Prenzlauer Berg favorite offering traditional snacks like sausages, potato salad, and Bavarian pretzels. In recent years, however, the trend has been towards giving beer garden menus a more diverse culinary approach. A shining example is BRLO Brwhouse (Schöneberger Str. 16, www. brlo-brwhouse.de), a modern restaurant and beer garden run by the local BRLO craft beer label. The daring decision was made to make vegetables the star of the menu: delectable dishes like smoked beets, BBQ eggplant, and 42 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U N E 2017

roasted cauliflower with a beer glaze. Meaty Rüdersdorf (Rüdersdorfer Str. 70, www. options like hickory-smoked ribs and a BBQ bierhof.berlin) is its owners: This Friedrichshain chicken sandwich, plus plenty of beer, of beer garden is part of the legendary Berghain course, round out the menu. club. It shares not only a location with the Stone Brewing (Im Marienpark 23, www. massive techno temple, but also the same stonebrewing.eu) is another craft super-cool, post-industrial aesthetic, beer label that’s branched out having been built out of a into gastronomy. The former heating plant. To go California brand opened a with your beer, there’s a second headquarters last range of tasty burgers – fall in a sprawling including a couple industrial complex in the vegetarian options – from district of Mariendorf. the popular Schiller Though it’s somewhat of Burger chain. a trek to get down there, And just next door, the stylish and spacious there’s another chilled-out setup makes it worth it. As do spot with a unique concept Stone Brewing the extensive food and drink of its own: Wilder Hase options: fresh, modern fusion-style (Helsingforser Str. 10, www. food with some California touches, like pulled facebook.com/wilderhase) is the only vegan pork spring rolls and shrimp tacos, and beer garden in the city. This means you can upwards of 40 taps featuring the company’s chow down on vegan döner, raw cakes, and own beers and a bunch of guest brews. other vegan treats as you sip a beer and bask The main claim to fame of Bierhof in the sun.

MAIN PHOTO: © STEFAN HAEHNEL. INSET: COURTESY OF STONE BREWING.

Hilda Hoy knows all the best beer gardens for eating, drinking, and being merry all summer long.

DINING KEY Alc (à la carte): Prices are per person for three courses (excl. drinks) €: under €15. €€: €15–€40. €€€: €40–€80. €€€€: over €80. Restaurants listed in Fine Dining have at least one Michelin star. Letter/ number codes correspond to map at back of book. Recommended by Die Goldenen Schlüssel Deutschland e.V./U.I.C.H. Les Clefs d’Or.

FINE DINING For a complete list of Berlin's Michelin-starred restaurants, visit wheretraveler.com/berlin.

5 – Cinco by Paco Pérez Catalan star chef Paco Pérez’s very first endeavor outside Spain is this Michelin-starred restaurant in Das Stue Hotel. His aim is to tickle all five senses with avant-garde taste experiences that take full advantage of the flavors and ingredients of his home country. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.5-cinco.com. Drakestr. 1. T: 030.3117220. S Tiergarten. C3

Facil Situated in a glass atrium of The Mandala Hotel and ringed by the courtyard’s trees, Facil has mastered understated elegance in both its décor and cuisine. Double-Michelin-starred chef Michael Kempf is particularly masterful with seafood when creating his fine menus. €€€€. Mon–Fri L&D. www.facil.de. Potsdamer Str. 3. T: 030.590051234. S Potsdamer Platz. D3

Fischers Fritz Pure, straightforward luxury is the formula at this restaurant in the Regent Berlin Hotel. One of just a handful of Berlin restaurants to earn two Michelin stars, Fischers Fritz will not fail to impress with its elevated cuisine and finely honed service. €€€€. Daily B, humuD. www.fischersfritzberlin.com. Charlottenstr. 49. T: 030.20336363. U Französische Straße. E3

Horváth Austria-born chef Sebastian Frank built a reputation – and earned a Michelin star – with his highly creative, oftentimes minimalist use of seasonal ingredients, from sunchokes to candied parsley root to spruce needles. Wooden interior and lovely outdoor patio. €€€. Wed–Sun D. www.restaurant-horvath.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 44a. T: 030.61289992. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Hugos On the 14th floor of the InterContinental Hotel, Hugos offers panoramic views of the city along with Michelin-starred French-German cuisine, with a well-earned reputation as one of Berlin's go-to gourmet destinations. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www. hugos-restaurant.de. Budapesterstr. 2. T: 030.26021263. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer The Hotel Adlon restaurant boasts two Michelin stars and a well-earned spot in the upper echelon of Berlin’s finest restaurants. No detail is spared in the creation of an unforgettable dining experience, presided over by chef Hendrik Otto. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.lorenzadlon-esszimmer.de. Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2661196. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Pauly Saal The chic, hip décor is matched by a menu of equally creative German cuisine, which was awarded a Michelin star in 2013. Meat dishes made

10 YEARS – 10 COURSES – 10 WINES 1. TO 30.06.2017 | START 6.00 PM | RESTAURANT DUKE Celebrate DUKE restaurant’s 10th anniversary with us and enjoy a tencourse menu with paired wines, created by our head chef Florian Glauert. EUR 139.00 per person incl. wine pairing, water and coffee Reservation recommended RESTAURANT DUKE @ ELLINGTON HOTEL BERLIN +49 (0)30 68 315-4000 | CONTACT@DUKE-RESTAURANT.COM | NÜRNBERGER STRASSE 50-55 | 10789 BERLIN | GERMANY

WWW.DUKE-RESTAURANT.COM / HIGHLIGHTS & SPECIALS

NEUMOND

BY TIM & VITALI DAS LOKAL FÜR LECKER ESSEN & TRINKEN In February 2017, NEUMOND reopened its doors under the new management of Tim Hansen & Vitali Müller. The menu includes many dishes we love. Beef Tartar, NEUMOND (Königsberg) meat balls, Tafelspitz (simmered beef), cod, or white chocolate mousse – of which we will never get enough. The “special” menu changes frequently and is inspired by our friend‘s favorite dishes. The list is very long and tempting! Our motto, “NEUMOND by Tim & Vitali” puts it in a nutshell. Personal. Sound. Authentic. We love to host!

Open Tuesday – Sunday from 7am till late Monday 7am – 3pm NEUMOND Restaurant Borsigstraße 28 10115 Berlin 030 2857505 office@neumond-restaurant.de www.wheretraveler.com 43

DINING from local game are a highlight. €€€. Daily L&D, closed Sun. www.paulysaal.com. Auguststr. 11–13. T: 030.33006070. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Reinstoff

com. Nürnberger Str. 50-55. T: 030.683154000. U Augsburger Straße. C4

Paris Bar French. Many celebrities – including

Chef Daniel Achilles didn’t earn two Michelin stars by playing it safe. The two nightly dinner menus at Reinstoff – one focused on regional tastes, the other incorporating influences from farther afield – are successful experiments in exciting, avantgarde cuisine. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.reinstoff.eu. Schlegelstr. 26c. T: 030.30881214. U Naturkundemuseum, S Nordbahnhof. E2

Madonna, Sophia Loren, and Robert De Niro – have patronized this West Berlin institution over the years. The bistro-style menu includes French classics like oysters and steak-frites, though the legend alone is enough to draw guests. €€€. Daily L&D. www.parisbar.net. Kantstr. 152. T: 030.3138052. S Savignyplatz. C4

CHARLOTTENBURG– WILMERSDORF

American. Juicy, high-quality meats cooked the American way and served with salads, potatoes and extravagant desserts. €€€. www.restaurant-wilsons. de. Crowne Plaza Berlin City Centre. Nürnberger Str. 65. T: 030.21007000. U Augsburger Straße. C4

Café Wintergarten im Literaturhaus German/Austrian. Classic elegance permeates the

high-ceilinged rooms of this café, reminiscent of turn-of-the-century literary salons. Snag a table in the greenhouse-like vestibule, or settle down by one of the grand windows to enjoy breakfast, bistro-style meals, or a glass of wine. €. Daily B, L, D. www.literaturhaus-berlin.de. Fasanenstr. 23. T: 030.8825414. U Uhlandstraße. C4

Duke Restaurant French. The Ellington Hotel’s signature restaurant is all about French haute cuisine with modern, creative twists. Both the à la carte options and the menu of monthly specials illustrate the restaurant’s dedication to top-quality best meat, seafood, and regional produce. €€€. Mon–Sat L&D. www.duke-restaurant.

44 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U N E 2017

Wilson's – The Prime Rib Restaurant

Zwölf Apostel Italian. The interior of this Charlottenburg

restaurant is frescoed like a Renaissance church, and the famed pizzas are named after each of Jesus’s twelve apostles. The thin-crust, wood-fired pizzas are sinfully delicious, as are the other Italian menu items. Second location: Georgenstr. 2, Mitte. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.12-apostel.de. Bleibtreustr. 49. T: 030.31 21433. S Savignyplatz. B4

FRIEDRICHSHAIN Matreshka Russian. Simple, homey Russian fare. Borscht, meat-

stuffed pelmeni dumplings and their vegetarian equivalent, vareniky, a selection of Georgian wines, and, of course, plenty of vodka. €. Daily L&D. Boxhagener Str. 60. T: 0163.9870767. S Ostkreuz. H3

Transit Asian Fusion. The long menu of tapas-style Thai and Indonesian dishes, each just a few euros, allows diners to cobble together a meal encompassing a wide range of tastes and ingredients. Second location in Mitte at Rosenthaler Str. 68. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.transitrestaurants.com. Sonntagstr. 28. T: 030.26948415. S Ostkreuz. Off Map

KREUZBERG Adana Grillhaus Turkish. This all-encompassing menu of Turkish dishes allows for the complete Turkish experience, with sights, smells, and tastes to reflect the cuisine that has found its way into the heart and soul of Berlin. A high priority for Adana Grillhaus is to ensure a familiar and welcoming atmosphere. Second location in Friedrichshain-Kreuzberg at Manteuffelstr. 86. €€ Daily L&D. www.adanagrillhaus.de. Skalitzerstr. 105. T: 030.82409600. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4 €.

Spindler German/European. Head chef Nicolas Gemin, formerly of Michelin-starred Pauly Saal, wows diners with upscale twists on German-European cuisine: Think cured salmon with beet pickles and

DINING ricotta, octopus and chorizo, or lamb shoulder with smothered Jerusalem artichokes. Also serves breakfast and weekend brunch. €€–€€€. Mon–Fri L, daily D. www.spindler-berlin.net. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 42. T: 030.69598880. U Kottbusser Tor, U Schönleinstraße. F4

Spindler & Klatt

MITTE

Neue Promenade 7. T: 030.27582849. S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

AIGNER am Gendarmenmarkt

Cookies Cream

Austrian/German. The Mitte restaurant boasts

an elegant interior and a view on stately Gendarmenmarkt. Styled after Vienna's famed coffeehouses, AIGNER adds a local touch with dishes like Brandenburg roast duck. €€€. Daily L&D. www.aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de. Französischestr. 25 T: 030.203751850. U Französische Straße. E3

Asian-European fusion. Restaurant, lounge, and club in one, Spindler & Klatt makes full use of its prime river location. In the summer, the waterside Barist terrace is a memorable spot to enjoy the menu of Italian. Healthful, filling breakfasts, quick business Pan-Asian dishes, from fine sushi to sizzling tuna lunches, happy-hour cocktails, and dinner with steaks and dry-aged Irish steaks hot off friends in the red-bricked arches under the grill. Even in colder months, the the trains at S Hackescher Markt chic, post-industrial interior – built station. €€. Daily B, L, D. www. in the 1800s as an army bakery – is barist.de. Am Zwirngraben 13. unforgettable too. On Fridays and T: 030.24722613. S Hackescher The invention of the Saturdays, the spot transforms Markt. F2/F3 Currywurst was accidental. In into a club from 23pm. €€€. 1949, a housewife Borchardt Daily D. www.spindlerklatt.com. experimented with curry German/French. A favorite Köpenicker Str. 16–17. T: 030 powder she got from Brit hobnobbing spot of the rich 319881860. soldiers and obtained U Schlesisches Tor. G4 and famous, Borchardt is popular the famous sauce. for both its food (especially the Volt schnitzel) as well as the opportunity to German. The name of this restaurant and the see and be seen. €€. Daily L&D. edgy, post-industrial interior remind diners that the www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Französische Str. 47. space was once an electricity station. Chef Matthias T: 030.81886262. U Französische Straße. E3 Gleiss has edge, too – he was named Newcomer of Beef Bull Club the Year in 2011 by a jury of top Berlin chefs. Refined Steaks. Juicy, delicious steaks and high-quality yet exciting German food is his calling card. €€€. Mon–Sat D. www.restaurant-volt.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer meats on the bustling, lively Platz at Hackescher Markt. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.beefbullclub.de. 21. T: 030.61074033. U Kottbusser Tor. G4

Vegetarian. A whole new kind of vegetarian

dining. First, there’s getting there, which feels more like going to an underground club than a restaurant. Then there’s the food, vegetarian eating gone haute cuisine, thanks to celebrity chef Stephan Hentschel. €€–€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.cookiescream.com. Behrenstr. 55. T: 030.27492940. U Französische Straße. E3

Grand Rocka International. Inside, the restaurant takes over the historic arched space under S Hackescher Markt station, featuring a grand old wooden bar that lives up to the restaurant’s name, and out front, the terrace spills out across the busy Platz. The large international menu ranges from steaks to pizzas to burgers. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.grandrocka.de. Am Zwirngraben 6–7. T: 030.24638606. F2

The Grand German. The sophisticated supper club, with origins reaching back to 1842, boasts an American grill that makes its international array of steaks among the best in town. The upstairs lounge (and, in particular, its cocktails) attracts a decadent late-night scene. €€€. Mon–Fri L, Daily D. www.the-grand-berlin.com. Hirtenstraße 4. T: 030.278909555. Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Grill Royal German/French. A beloved destination of

Mitte’s well-dressed creative scenesters.

REST A U R A N T BAR & C L U B EV E N T S

Monday to Friday: 12.00 – 23.00 CET Saturday and Sunday: 18.00 – 23.00 CET Make your Reservation: Tel. 030 / 278 909 95 55 www.the-grand-berlin.com

www.wheretraveler.com 45

DINING There’s more to the menu than just grilled meat, though the steaks are indeed excellent. Lobster cocktail, ceviche, and oysters are just a few other additions to the fine menu. €€€. Daily D. www. grillroyal.com. Friedrichstr. 105b. T: 030.28879288. S Friedrichstraße. E3

Hummus & Friends Israeli. Creamy, rich, and fluffy hummus with warm

pita bread might just be Israel’s national dish, and with the opening of Hummus & Friends, it’s easy to get in the German capital too. Also on the menu are fresh, colorful salads and side dishes like roasted whole cauliflower with tahini sauce. The bar even serves kosher Israeli wine. €. Daily L&D. www. hummus-and-friends.com. Oranienburger Str. 27. T: 030.55471454. S Oranienburger Straße. F2

Käfer Dachgarten-Restaurant of the German Bundestag

foods. The kitchen’s pride and joy is the “Slow Food” section of the menu, starring 12-hour, sous vide roasted pork neck, ribs, or lamb shoulder. €€. Daily D, closed Sun. www.katzorange.com. Bergstr. 22. T: 030.983208430. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

Maximilians German. Maximilians recreates the feel of a cozy Bavarian beer hall with hearty food and plentiful beer to match. Meaty specialties include pork knuckle served with dumplings and sauerkraut, freshly baked pretzels, and the tempting “Munich sausage parade.” From the four kinds of Paulaner beer on tap to the warm hospitality, Maximilians goes to great lengths to transport a piece of Bavaria to the heart of Mitte. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.maximiliansrestaurant.de. Friedrichstr. 185–190. T: 030.20450559. U Stadtmitte. E3

German. The Reichstag is for more than sightseeing.

Nante Eck

Thanks to the culinary team behind Käfer, it’s also a fine dining destination. On the roof of the famed landmark, Käfer boasts splendid views and refined, modern German cuisine. Advance reservations required. Due to security precautions, each guest must provide official photo I.D. upon entry. €€€. Daily B, L, D. www.feinkost-kaefer.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030 2262990. U Bundestag, S Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3.

German. With delightful dishes from Berlin’s

traditional cuisine and a menu that changes every month, the Nante Eck restaurant offers a refined cuisine made with fresh local ingredients. Specialties include extra-big currywurst with potato and cucumber salad and Flammkuchen pies. Very long beer menu. €. Daily L&D in summer. www.nante-eck.de. Unter den Linden 35. T: 030.22487257. U Französische Straße. F2

Katz Orange

Neumond

German/European. Housed in a former brewery, the

German. The sight of Neumond’s historic and

warm, stylish interior decoration of this restaurant is met with a menu of top-quality, updated comfort

refined counter gives a hint of the restaurant’s simple elegance in both interior design and menu.

This includes a vast selection of courses ranging from classic to special and a variety of drinks to choose from. Sweet tooth? do not miss the white chocolate mousse. €€. Borsigstr. 28, Mitte. Daily L and Tue-Sun D. www.office@neumond-restaurant. de. T: 030.2857505. S Nordbahnhof. E2

Restauration 1840 German. An elegant, old-timey restaurant decorated in the style of Berlin’s Golden 1920s. Think curved brick ceilings and lots of warm wood everywhere, plus an outdoor terrace. The menu: classic German meets modern European. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.berlin-1840.de. Am Zwirngraben 10. T: 030.24727401. S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

PRENZLAUER BERG I Due Forni Italian. The atmosphere in this pizza hall is raucous and the service notoriously surly, but that doesn’t keep the pizza-loving crowds at bay. The generously sized and traditional-style thin-crust concoctions are famed around the city. €. Daily L&D. Schönhauser Allee 12. T: 030.44017333. U Senefelderplatz. F2

Lucky Leek Vegetarian. It’s not luck that makes Lucky Leek so good, but rather a dedication to creating topnotch gourmet cuisine that is also 100-percent vegan and incorporates international tastes. The small but comprehensive menu changes regularly. €€. Wed–Sun D. www.lucky-leek.de. U Senefelderplatz. F2

SCHÖNEBERG Renger-Patzsch German. All dark wood and white tablecloths, the look at Renger-Patzsch is as simple and elegant as is its menu of refined German-Austrian cuisine. Meat dishes are a specialty, as are the Alsatian Flammkuchen, bases of thin dough baked with topping combos like apple and blood sausage. €€. Daily D. www.renger-patzsch.com. Wartburgstr. 54. T: 030.7842059. U Eisenacher Straße. D5

TIERGARTEN

A Mitte Coffee Oasis Right in the heart of one of the city's trendiest and busiest shopping neighborhoods, in a courtyard that still bears the architectural hallmarks of its 19th-century origins, Father Carpenter Coffee Brewers is a tranquil respite for a delicious coffee break or a relaxed brunch. A steady flow of fans drops by throughout the day to grab a quick caffeine fix or a sandwich to go, but the lovely space invites guests to take a seat and stay a while. In the midst of the calming décor, the signature cerulean blue of Father Carpenter’s coffee cups provides pops of color. In addition to treats like espresso cheesecake and fudgy brownies that pair perfectly with a cappuccino, the café also serves a tempting menu of breakfast and lunch options like smashed avocado on sourdough toast and eggs Benedict drenched in luscious hollandaise. Münzstr. 21. T: 0176 25219805. www.fathercarpenter.com

46 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U N E 2017

German/European. A waterside location in the middle of the Tiergarten park makes this a lovely spot come warm weather or chilly. Besides satisfying meals, visitors can enjoy a seat in the beer garden or a row on the lake in summer or glowing fireplaces and games of Eisstockschiessen – a Bavarian ice game similar to curling – in the winter. €. Daily B, L, D. www.cafeamneuensee.de. Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930. S Tiergarten. C3

Café Einstein Stammhaus German/Austrian. The 1878 Neo-Renaissance villa housing this Viennese-style coffee house makes for a lovely spot for a meal or to while away the afternoon with a coffee and a good book in oldtimey ambiance. Recommended: a slice of the café's famous apple strudel paired with a Wiener Melange coffee. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.cafeeinstein.com. Kurfürstenstr. 58. T: 030.26391918. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

CREDIT: COURTESY OF FATHER CARPENTER COFFEE BREWERS.

Café am Neuen See and Biergarten

THE GUIDE | ENTERTAINMENT

Marking Summer With Music

FÊTE DE LA MUSIQUE: © ALEX LALJAK; © DOMINIK BUTZMANN; © KAI BIENERT.

Rachel Stern takes an instrumental tour through Berlin for the city’s most famous live-music festival of the summer. From rooftops to street corners, Berlin reverberates with music to mark the first day of summer, Wednesday, 21 June. Taking place every year since 1995, the free, live music festival Fête de la Musique (www.fetedelamusique.de) presents over 100 artists, ranging from experimental percussionists to chamber musicians, spread throughout every neighborhood of Berlin. Germany joins 120 other countries in celebrating the famous French festival. Read on for some of our favorite performances, which play from 4pm until 10pm as the last bit of sun sweeps across the summer sky. No fête would be complete without the many artists and massive dancing crowds that fill the auditorium at Mauerpark (Gleimstr. 55, www.mauerpark.info), playing everything from progressive to punk under a grassy knoll and graffiti-laced backdrop. Catch also the smaller spontaneous musical acts that pop up

around the park throughout the evening. For a more relaxing music experience, bring your yoga mats to BeachMitte (CarolineMichaelis-Str. 8, www.beachberlin.de). Stretch out your toes into the sandy beach as live, meditative music plays and instructors from Yoga United (www.yoga-united.de) lead yogis of all levels. For those keen on keeping the party going into the a.m., visit the nearby Mein Haus am See (Brunnenstraße 197-198, www.mein-hausam-see.club), famous for their stylish electro

and being open 24/7. The former warehouse and bookshop is a sprawling space dotted with comfy couches, a stellar cocktail bar, and multiple musical acts. For a different kind of musical encounter, head to the REFoRGELN & friends (Beusselstr. 35, www.refo-moabit.de) reform church in Moabit, where a line-up of organ tunes reverberate the whole evening. Artist Erik Hoeppe leads a children’s program throughout the evening, teaching both choir singing and the art of playing the mighty church instrument itself. For a celebration along the Spree, check out the ambient ipse lounge at the Freischwimmer Restaurant (Vor dem Schlesischen Tor 2a, www.ipse-berlin.com) for a multifaceted line-up. This year’s includes jazz and pop musician Emma Longard, singer and songwriter and, as the evening draws to a close, house music from Meggy, Click|Click und Niko Schwind. www.wheretraveler.com 47

It will all be yours …*

ENTERTAINMENT

BALLET & OPERA Deutsche Oper A 1960s décor-free box of acoustic magic. Director and conductor Donald Runnicles puts together rich programs with lots of Verdi, Rossini, and Mozart. 2 Jun: Billy Budd (Britten). 3 Jun: Turandot (Puccini). 4, 10 Jun: The Flying Dutchman (Wagner). 8, 11 Jun: Nabucco (Verdi). 9, 22 Jun: Turandot (Puccini). 17, 23, 27 Jun: Boris Godunov (Mussorgsky). 24, 29 Jun: Don Carlo (Verdi). www. deutscheoperberlin.de. T: 030.34384343. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Komische Oper Young and daring opera productions won this theater the title of Opera House of the Year 2013. Australian intendant Barrie Kosky is also the artistic director of some of the performances, with mesmerizing results. 2, 17 Jun: Carmen (Bizet). 3 Jun: The Coronation of Poppea (Monteverdi/Elena Katz-Chernin). 5, 20, 25 Jun: Medea (Reimann). 10 Jun: The Fairground Scene, from Sorochintsky Fair (Mussorgsky), in Russian. 16, 19, 22 Jun: Heute Nacht oder nie (Spolianski). 18, 24, 28 Jun: Zoroastre (Rameau). 23, 26 Jun: Orpheus (Monteverdi). www. komische-oper-berlin.de. Behrensstr. 55-57. T: 030.47997400. U Französische Straße. E3

Staatsballett

Theatre with English surtitles »Bella Figura« by Yasmina Reza Direction: Thomas Ostermeier On June 1, 7.30 pm »Hamlet« by William Shakespeare Direction: Thomas Ostermeier On June 5, 8 pm

Berlin’s ballet company currently performs at various locations. 1, 5 Jun: Swan Lake (Tchaikovsky) at Deutsche Oper. 2, 3, 10, 23 Jun: Duato/ Kylian at Schiller Theater. 4, 9, 11, 27, 29 Jun: Duato/Schechter at Komische Oper. 18, 19, 25, 26 Jun: The Sleeping Beauty (Tchaikovsky) at Deutsche Oper. www.staatsballett-berlin.de. T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Staatsoper im Schiller Theater While its home on Unter den Linden gets revamped, the Staatsoper has temporarily moved all performances to the Schiller Theater. Daniel Barenboim’s perfect productions range from

Baroque operas to contemporary premieres. 1, 4, 9, 11, 14 Jun: La Damnation de Faust (Verdi). 18, 22, 25 Jun: Katja Kabanowa (Janacek). 24, 30 Jun: Les Pecheurs de Perles (Bizet). www.staatsoper-berlin.de. T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3

CLASSICAL CONCERTS Berliner Dom Berlin’s main cathedral presents a plethora of sacred music concerts year round. www. berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269136. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Hochschule für Musik Hans Eisler One of Berlin’s most prestigious music academies. Its students are members of important orchestras, choirs, and bands, and the stage presents hundreds of concerts every year – many of which are free. www.hfm-berlin.de. Charlottenstr. 55. T: 030.688305700. U Stadtmitte. E3

Chamber Music Hall of the Philharmonie Part of the Philharmonie, this concert hall presents daily chamber-music concerts and free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays.8 Jun: Spectrum Concerts Berlin plays Strauss, Brahms, Schoenberg. 12 Jun: Baroque water music with the Akademie für Alte Musik Berlin. 13 Jun: Violinist Leonidas Kavakos and his ensemble play Schumann and Brahms. 15 Jun: Pianist Pietro Massa plays Bach, Liszt, and Chopin. 18 Jun: Pianist Igor Levit, recital: Bach's Goldberg Variations. 20 Jun: Pianist Igor Levit, recital: music by Beethoven. 22 Jun: Scharoun Ensemble Berlin and Emmanuel Pahud. www. berliner-philharmoniker.de. Herbert-von-KarajanStr. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Konzerthaus This charismatic 1821 concert hall is the base theater of the Konzerthausorchester, but other orchestras and soloists grace its stage regularly. 1–3 Jun: The Konzerthausorchester Berlin (cond. Gonzalez) performs Schumann and Strauss. 6 Jun: The Staatskapelle Berlin (cond.

*»Beware of Pity« by Stefan Zweig Direction: Simon McBurney On June 8 and 9, 8 pm »Professor Bernhardi« by Arthur Schnitzler Direction: Thomas Ostermeier On June 14, 8 pm

»TRUST« Text: Falk Richter Direction & Choreography: Falk Richter and Anouk van Dijk On June 26, 8 pm

Tickets: 030 890023 www.schaubuehne.de 48 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U N E 2017

Rockin’ In A Renaissance Fortress Berlin may have many outdoor venues to rock out to live music in the summer, but nothing tops an open-air fortress from the Renaissance. At the Spandau Citadel in the western outskirts of the city, music fans can enjoy an eclectic number of genres from jazz to German pop amid massive old walls. The ongoing Citadel Museic Festival, taking place June through August, has a lively lineup including Prophets of Rage (7 June), The Beach Boys (8 June), and Zucchero (22 June). www.citadel-music-festival.de

SPANDAU CITADEL: © BRITTA PEDERSEN

»The Invention of the Red Army Faction by a Manic-Depressive Teenager in the Summer of 1969« by Frank Witzel Direction: Armin Petras On June 21, 8 pm

ENTERTAINMENT Barenboim): Rachmaninov, Debussy, Ravel. 9, 10 Jun: The Konzerthausorchester Berlin and the Czech Philharmonic Choir (cond. Valchua) perform Dvorak, Janacek, Martinu. 9 Jun: The Konzerthausorchester Berlin (cond. Valchua) plays Brahms and Grieg. 16, 18 Jun: The Konzerthausorchester Berlin (cond. Fischer) plays Sibelius and Bartok. 25 Jun: The Akademie für Alte Musik and the RIAS Kammerchor play Bruckner. 30 Jun: The Konzerthausorchester Berlin (cond. Venzago) and violinist Tabea Zimmermann play Jarrell and Schumann. www.konzerthaus.de. Gendarmenmarkt. T: 030.203092101. U Hausvogteiplatz. E3

Philharmonie

Odeon This old-school single-screen cinema was Berlin’s first English-language theater and still screens both cult movies and new releases. Hauptstr. 116. T: 030.78704019. U Rathaus Schöneberg, S Schöneberg. C5

Diana Krall. Daily from 8pm, free entry Sunday after 10:30pm. www.a-trane.de. Pestalozzistr. 105. T: 030.3132550. S Savignyplatz. B3/B4

Arena

ROCK, POP, JAZZ

A very large music hall that used to be a bus depot. www.arena-berlin.de. Eichenstr. 4. T: 030.5332030. S Treptower Park, Schlesisches Tor. G4

A-Trane

B Flat Jazz Club

Since 1992, this intimately sized but important venue (it was named Best German Jazzclub in 2011) has welcomed both emerging and A-list talent, including Wynton Marsalis, Herbie Hancock, and

Small jazz bands play almost every night at this bar. Free jam sessions every Wednesday. www.b-flatberlin.de. Dircksenstr. 40. T: 030.2833123. S+U Alexanderplatz. F2

The iconic concert venue is home to the acclaimed Berliner Philharmoniker, currently led by Sir Simon Rattle, but also hosts other ensembles and soloists. Free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays 1pm. 31 May–3 Jun: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. sir Simon Rattle) play Mozart and Stravinsky. 5 Jun: The Staatskapelle Berlin (cond. Barenboim, piano Lang Lang) performs Rachmaninov. 8–10 Jun: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Dudamel) performs Adam and Dvorak. 15–17 Jun: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Nézet-Séguin) plays Ravel, Berlioz, Stravinsky. 21–24 Jun: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. sir Simon Rattle) play Dvorák, Brahms. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin Injecting new expression into 19th- and 20thcentury classical works under the lead of Marek Janowski, the oldest German radio orchestra with its 103 members has won a place in the top tier of European concert orchestras. www.rsb-online.de. Tickets: 030.20298715.

DANCE AND EXPERIMENTAL SPACES Dock 11 Studios & Eden Avant-garde dance shows and contemporary performances inside an old factory. Two locations, one in Prenzlauer Berg, one in Pankow. www. dock11-berlin.de. Dock 11 Studios: Kastanienallee 79. T: 030.4481222. U Eberswalder Straße, Rosenthaler Platz. F2; Eden Studios: Breite Str. 43 (Pankow). T: 030.35120312.S+U Pankow. Off Map

Radialsystem V Once a turn-of-the-century pumping station for the Berlin Water Services, this creative space is now a cultural center and idea factory that hosts performances of all kinds, from classical concerts to jazz jam sessions to contemporary dance. www.radialsystem.de. Holzmarktstr. 33. T: 030.288788588. S+U Jannowitzbrücke. G3

MOVIE THEATERS CinemaxX Potsdamer Platz Multiplex cinema. Most of the movies are screened in their original language, with or without subtitles. www.cinemaxx.de. Potsdamer Str. 5. T: 040.80806969. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Cinestar Sony Center The latest Hollywood blockbusters, in English, every day. www.cinestar.de. Potsdamer Str. 4. T: 030.26066400. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

The Tap-Dance Tornadoes from Down Under! June 02 to July 30 Theater · Restaurant · Beer Garden Next to the Chancellery / Tickets from EUR 24,50

Tickets 030. 39 06 65 50 // www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de www.wheretraveler.com 49

ENTERTAINMENT Columbiahalle/C-Halle The multi-function event space hosts some of today’s most popular pop and rock acts. www.columbia-theater.de. Columbiadamm 13-21. T: 030.69812814. U Platz der Luftbrücke. E5

KulturBrauerei The early-1900s brewery complex now houses various restaurants and art spaces, with a rich combination of programs, as well as a very popular street-food market most Sundays. www.kulturbrauerei.de. Schönhauser Allee 36. T: 030.44352614. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Lido A former cinema turned club and concert venue for rock-indie lovers. Check website for program. www.lido-berlin.de. Cuvrystr. 7. T: 030.69566840. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin A massive arena for world-touring pop concerts and sports events, including those of Berlin’s professional ice hockey team, the Eisbären. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de. Mühlenstr. 12–30. T: 030.2060708899. U Warschauer Straße. G4

Quasimodo One of Berlin’s historic music cafés. Diversified program with many musical styles, from jazz to blues, R&B to soul. www.quasimodo.de. Kantstr. 12a. T: 030.31804560. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Tempodrom This large concert building resembling a circus tent – and situated on the former grounds of the now-gone Anhalter Bahnhof – hosts an array of events, from classical concerts and pop-rock productions to mixed martial arts and dance. 24 Jun: Circus meets Africa. www.tempodrom.de. Möckernstr. 10. Toll number: 0186.554111. S Anhalter Bahnhof. E4

THEATER, CABARET & MUSICALS

WWW.CITADEL-MUSIC-FESTIVAL.DE

uft!

Ausverka

ZUCCHERO DEINE FREUNDE

15. AUG

JEAN-MICHEL JARRE

RONAN KEATING ZZ TOP

ZITADELLE SPANDAU · AM JULIUSTURM 64 · 13599 BERLIN Berlin

TICKETS AT EVERY BOXOFFICE AND: WWW.DODOTICKETS.DE

50 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U N E 2017

29. AUG

ALLIGATOAH CYPRESS HILL OPEN AIR · ZITADELLE · BERLIN

Bar Jeder Vernunft A 1912 tent housing song-and-dance shows, comedy, and cabaret. Many shows in German only. www.bar-jeder-vernunft.de. Schaperstr. 24. T: 030.8831582. U Spichernstraße. C4 An old ballroom where it is not unusual to see trapeze artists, jugglers, tap dancers, and cabaret singers. All month: Scotch and Soda – Circus. Jazz. Served Straight Up! www.chamaeleonberlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 40/41. T: 030.4000590. S Hackescher Markt. E2

PATTI SMITH & HER BAND 12. AUG ∙ GRANDSLAM WRESTLING

One of Berlin’s few preserved pre-WWII variety venues offers an international, high-caliber program of musicals, cabaret, and concerts in an elegant hall from the 1920s. www.admiralspalast. de. Friedrichstr. 101. T: 030.47997499. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Chamäleon Variete 18. JUL

14. JUL

11. JUL

22. JUN

THE BEACH BOYS KONTRA K

02. JUL

26. AUG

PROPHETS OF RAGE 10. JUN

08. JUN

07. JUN

Admiralspalast

Friedrichstadt-Palast Special effects, glitzy Vegas-style live show productions at this modern theater. All month: The One, Grand Show, a dreamlike journey through time in search of the person we love. www.palast.berlin Friedrichstr. 107. T: 030.23262326. U Friedrichstraße. E3

Kookaburra Tuesday is English Comedy Night at this popular

comedy club, and there’s also an English intermezzo late on Saturday nights. www.comedyclub.de. Schönhauser Allee 184. T: 030.48623186. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Quatsch Comedy Club This popular club hosts frequent stand-up comedy shows and a regular English-language night. www.quatschcomedyclub.de. Friedrichstr. 107. Toll number: 01806.999000969. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Schaubühne A popular West Berlin theater in the 1960 and 1970s, this Ku’damm performance venue still hosts some interesting productions. Check website for program. www.schaubuehne.de. Kurfürstendamm 153. U Adenauerplatz. C4

Tipi am Kanzleramt The big tent in the Tiergarten has a vast program of musicals, magic, cabaret, dance, and theater. Many shows are in German. All month: The Tap Pack, tap-dance tornadoes from Down Under. www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de. Große Querallee. T: 030.39066550. U Bundestag. D3

Volksbühne An experimental multimedia theater and cultural center where you can see plays, readings, lectures, concerts, and more. Check website for program. www.volksbuehne-berlin.de. Linienstr. 227. T: 030.24065777. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Wintergarten Varieté This sumptuous variety theater that has earned a reputation for its revitalized Vaudeville-inspired productions, as well as world-famous acts. Until 15 June: LIKE BERLIN, five shows a week. www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Potsdamer Str. 96. T: 030.588433. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D4

ON THIS MONTH THEATER, MUSICALS & DANCE BLUE MAN GROUP Bluemax Theater, all month

THE ONE: GRAND SHOW Friedrichstadt-Palast, all month

SCOTCH AND SODA Chamäleon Theater, all month

LIKE BERLIN Wintergarten Berlin, until 15 June

THE TAP PACK Tipi am Kanzleramt, all month

ROCK, JAZZ, POP DEPECHE MODE

Underart atOlympiastadion, Chamäleon. 22 June

THE BEACH BOYS Spandau Citadel, 8 June

DEEP PURPLE Mercedes-Benz Arena, 13 June

BALLET & CLASSICAL BORIS GODUNOV (MUSSORGSKY) Deutsche Oper, 17, 23, 27 June

THE CORONATION OF POPPEA Komische Oper, 3 June

Triple Englishness

CREDIT: DEEP PURPLE: COURTESY OF DEEP PURPLE PR.

at CineStar Original, IMAX, and KulturBrauerei!

Metal Masters Play Farewell Concert

Enjoy Berlin’s widest range of undubbed English versions all-day at CineStar Original and see undubbed versions of documentaries and blockbusters at IMAX as well – on Berlin’s largest screen! Our tip: Every first Tuesday of the month Sneak-previews in original version with german subtitles at KulturBrauerei. More info and tickets at cinestar.de

Nearly a decade before Metallica was formed, visionaries of heavy metal Deep Purple were already rocking stages with their signature hard and quick metal style. Founded in 1968, the legendary British group is taking center stage on Tuesday, 13 June at Berlin’s Mercedes Benz Arena for their Long Goodbye Tour. With Canadian rock band Monster Truck as their opener, they will jam songs from their 20th studio album Infinite, and bid farewell to fans. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de

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NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE

This photo: Strandbar. Inset: tango time.

Dancing Under The Stars Now that the summer season is well and truly underway, it’s only natural to want to stay outdoors as much as possible – including when it comes to nightlife. To heat things up with a night spent dancing under the stars, fill your dance card with some of these spots. A perennial summertime favorite amongst Berliners is Strandbar (Monbijoustr. 3b, www. monbijou-theater.de), a riverside, open-air bar with a beautiful view of Museum Island. Weather permitting, there’s dancing every night of the week on the bar’s wooden dance floor: swing on Mondays, cha cha on Tuesdays, tango Wednesdays, salsa Thursdays... The uninitiated can take lessons on a drop-in basis, while those who truly have two left feet can just sip a cold beer or two and play spectator. Throughout the first week of the month, dance floors across the city will be getting steamy with the Embrace Tango Festival (until 5 June, www.embrace-berlin.de). Passionate tango lovers from around the 52 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U N E 2017

world descend on Berlin every summer for this multifaceted event, featuring workshops, milongas (tango dance floors), and shows featuring sultry tango performances from international dance sensations. To tango under the stars, head to participating Embrace venues like El Ocaso (Schönhauser Allee 36, www.elocaso.de) and Urquiza (Schönhauser Allee 176, www.urquiza.com), which both take the dancing outside on warm summer nights. Check out the festival website for the schedule of the “Tango Bus,” which will be setting up outdoor milongas all around town. Another of this month’s cultural highlights is the hotly anticipated Karneval der

Kulturen (www.karneval-berlin.de), a four-day extravaganza of multiculturalism held annually in Kreuzberg. Make sure to plan in a visit to the Karneval’s Street Fest from 2–5 June, when a big concert stage set up at Mehringplatz fills the streets with lots of music and dancing. The parade on 4 June promises to draw a massive crowd to boogying all the way down Gneisenaustraße. Keeping with the weekend’s carnival theme, Badeschiff (Eichenstr. 4, www.carnivalfever.de) hosts a “Soca on the Beach” night 2 June. The party at the riverside “beach” will feature hot dancehall and soca beats from the Caribbean that will get every booty shaking.

TANGO NACHT: ©VISITBERLIN, FOTO GUENTER STEFFEN; © ISTOCK

Hilda Hoy is getting into the summer mood by hitting some of the city’s open-air dance floors.

NIGHTLIFE

BEER Ankerklause A canal-side tavern where drinks come with beautiful views of passing boats. Daily from 10am (Mon from 4pm). www.ankerklause.de. Kottbusser Damm 104. T: 030.6935649. U Schönleinstraße. F4

Café am Neuen See and Biergarten A pleasant lakeside beer garden inside the verdant Tiergarten park. Open daily from breakfast onwards. www.cafeamneuensee.de. Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930. S Tiergarten. C3

Club der Visionäre This canal-side boat-shack attracts young crowds till early morning and beyond. Daily from 2pm until very late (from noon Sat & Sun). www. clubdervisionaere.com. Am Flutgraben 1. T: 030.69518942. U Schlesisches Tor, S Treptower Park. G4

Dicke Wirtin This old Berliner Kneipe restaurant is a Charlottenburg institution. Great beer and traditional German dishes. Daily from 11am. www.dicke-wirtin.de. Carmerstr. 9. T: 030.3124952. S Savignyplatz, S+U Zoologischer Garten. B4

Prater Berlin’s oldest Biergarten serves simple and homely cuisine, seasonal specialties, and lots of beer of course! Daily from 6pm (from noon Sat). www.pratergarten.de. Kastanienallee 7-9. T: 030.4485688. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Schleusenkrug A relaxing spot for beer lovers amid the lush greenery of the Tiergarten. German specialties to go with your beer include a variety of cakes, Flammkuchen, and a few breakfast options. Daily from 11am. www.schleusenkrug.de. Müller-BreslauStr. T: 030.3139909. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

CASINOS Spielbank Berlin A modern casino offering three floors of fun and games, including 20 tables of roulette, blackjack, and an extensive variety of poker options, as well as 350 gaming machines. Daily from 11am. www. spielbank-berlin.de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1. T: 030.255990. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3/D4

WINE & COCKTAILS Bar Tausend Celebrities mingle while watching the expert mixologists do their magic at this futuristic bar. Thu–Sat from 7:30pm. www.tausendberlin.com. Schiffbauerdamm 11. T: 030.27582070. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

WINE: © ISTOCK.

Fragrances The Ritz-Carlton’s bar is the world’s only to pair cocktails with perfumes. Each drink is represented by a tester bottle of the perfume it’s based on and a photo illustrating the final presentation, which ranges from playful to whimsical. www.ritzcarlton.com. Potsdamer Platz 3. T:030.337777. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

The Grand A former school building has been transformed into a super-hip restaurant, bar and club all mixed into one. Enjoy top cocktails and a selection of cigars on the green leather couches in the 1920s-inspired bar, then dance the night away in the chic, intimate club. www.the-grand-berlin.com. Hirtenstr. 4. T: 030.2789099555. S+U Alexanderplatz. B4

Green Door Cocktail Bar One of Berlin’s most relaxing cocktail bars, with a retro style and lots of kitsch décor. The cocktail list is long and the barman famous. Daily 6pm–3am (Fri–Sat until 4am). www.greendoor.de. Winterfeldtstr. 50. T: 030.2152515. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

Harry’s New York Bar An international drink menu with 200+ different cocktails, served to a jazz soundtrack. Mon–Sat from 4pm. www.esplanade.de. Grand Hotel Esplanade Berlin, Lützowufer 15. T: 030.254780. Bus M29, stop Lützowplatz. D4

LaBanca Bar The Hotel de Rome’s bar team specializes in avantgarde cocktails made with unusual ingredients such as balsamic vinegar, rose petals, or ginger beer. Live music Wed–Sat, rooftop terrace in summer. www.hotelderome.com. Behrenstr. 37. T: 030.4606090. U Französische Straße. E3

Newton Bar Cigars, champagne, whiskey, and cocktails define this bar, which is entirely dedicated to fashion photographer Helmut Newton. Daily 10am–3am (until 4am Fri–Sat). www.newton-bar.de. Charlottenstr. 57. T: 030.20295421. U Französische Straße. E3

Reingold A classic cocktail bar, 1920s style. Elegant leather sofas, sumptuous lighting, and gilded elements with a soundtrack ranging from soul and funk to R&B. Tue–Sat from 7pm. www.reingold.de. Novalisstr. 11. T: 030.28387676. U Oranienburger Tor. E2

Schwarzes Café A 24-hour combination of a bar and a café, with a good selection of beer and wine and hot meals at any time of night. Lovely garden. 24h a day except Tue from 3–10am. www.schwarzescafeberlin.de. Kantstr. 148. T: 030.3138038. U Uhlandstraße, U Savignyplatz. B4

Times Bar A fine and luxurious bar inside the Savoy Hotel, offering modern drinks and Caribbean cocktails alongside a selection of Cuban cigars. www.weinrotrestaurant.com. Fasanenstr. 9-10. T: 030.311030. S Savignyplatz. C4

Victoria Bar Top-notch cocktails and a marvelous, elegant interior with dark-wood walls, leather couches, and art aplenty. Open daily 6.30pm–3am (until 4am on Friday & Saturday). www.victoriabar.de. Potsdamer Str. 102. T: 030.25759977. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D4 Sip a crisp Riesling and nibble on a cheese plate at Schwein wine bar (Elisabethkirchstr. 2, www.schweinonline.de).

CLUB GUIDE BERGHAIN/PANORAMA BAR The world's most famous techno club – and with the toughest doormen too. Fri 12am–Mon. www.berghain.de. Am Wriezener Bahnhof. G3

KATER BLAU A top-notch soundsystem driving house and techno beats from the best DJs, and a carnival-like atmosphere. Fri–Sat from midnight. www.katerblau.de. Holzmarktstr. 25. G3

TRESOR Housed in the safe of a department store, Tresor was the first techno club in Berlin’s post-Wall years. www.tresorberlin.com. Köpenicker Str. 70. F3

WATERGATE A two-story electro, house, and drum & bass temple, right on the Spree River. Tight doors. Mon, Wed–Sat from midnight. www.water-gate.de. Falckensteinstr. 49. G4

HOUSE OF WEEKEND Three floors, fabulous views over the city, and the best DJs playing techno and house. Fri–Sun from 11pm. www.week-end-berlin.de. Alexanderplatz 7. F3

CLÄRCHENS BALLHAUS A popular, century-old dance hall. It's salsa on Mon, tango on Tues, swing on Wed, cha cha on Thu, and live ballroom music on Fri+Sat. www.ballhaus.de. Auguststr. 24. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

HORNS & HOOVES An eccentric combination of club, piano bar, cabaret, and circus. www.hornsandhooves.de. Danziger Str. 1. F1

GRETCHEN Funk, hip hop, drum & bass and electronica at this eclectic Kreuzberg club. Fri & Sat. www.gretchen-club.de. Obentrautstr. 19-21. E4

PURO SKY LOUNGE High-heeled crowds in a sleek, luxurious setting on the roof of the Europa Center. Wed–Sat from 8pm. www.puroberlin.de. Tauentzienstr. 9-12. C4

THE PEARL Luxurious club for the poshest crowds, Thu–Sat until 7am. www.thepearl-berlin.de. Fasanenstr. 81. G4

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ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE USEFUL INFORMATION Emergency numbers Police, call 110 free from any phone. Ambulance or fire, call 112 free from any phone. Medical Services, T: 030.310031. 24h Pharmacy: Hauptbahnhof Apotheke.

T: 030.20614190. S Hauptbahnhof. Berlin Police hotline, T: 030.46644664. Emergency dental services, T: 030.89004333. Poison hotline, T: 030.19240. National emergency number for on-call medical service, T: 116117. Berlin lost and found office, T: 030.902773101.

BERLIN AIRPORTS Berlin Tegel (TXL) Approx. 10 km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By bus: Buses 109 or X9 to Zoologischer Garten

Top concierges share their idea of a perfect day in Berlin with a range of tips for anyone ready to explore the city. What does your perfect day look like? “I like to immerse myself in the history of Berlin by gliding through the city’s waterways on my stand up paddle board.” – Carina Gerber, The Ritz-Carlton Berlin “After a hearty breakfast at the Literaturhaus on Fasanenstraße, I'd go on a bicycle ride along the beautiful banks of the Spree in Treptower Park. Then dinner at Savignyplatz, followed by drinks on the terrace at Monkey Bar overlooking Charlottenburg to round off the day.” - Marc Schnabel, Kempinski Hotel “I consider every day as perfect, an opportunity to learn something new. My city never sleeps, and this never-ending chance to discover gives me great joy.” - Marc Schiffer, The Ritz-Carlton Berlin “Breakfast at Anna Blume in Prenzlauer Berg followed by a private boat tour along the seven lakes around Wannsee. Lunch break in Potsdam, then dinner at Volt restaurant.” –Philipp Stopp, Regent Berlin “My perfect day starts with a sleep-in and late breakfast at my favorite coffee bar, Coffee Cult on Bergmannstraße. Afterwards, I’ll grab my bike and ride through the multicultural streets of the Kreuzberg and Neukölln districts to discover the newest hotspots. Around noon, I’ll have a quick lunch at Curry 36 before relaxing at Liquidrom spa. In the evening, I’ll watch a 54 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U N E 2017

movie at the newly renovated Zoo-palast, followed by a leisurely Vietnamese dinner at the Saigon-Green.” – Aykut Kanbak, Grand Hyatt Berlin “Pancakes for Breakfast at CHIPPS Restaurant (Jägerstr. 35) followed by a walk through Tiergarten, then over to the Ku’damm for shopping, and lunch at NENI restaurant (Budapesterstr. 40). Afterwards, I like to relax at Liquidrom and catch a movie at Cinestar where they show films in their original language, topped off with dinner at the Pantry restaurant (Friedrichstr. 120) and a nightcap at the Le Croco Bleu bar (Prenzlauer Allee 242).” – Tim Sachse, Hilton Berlin “A late breakfast in Prenzlauer Berg and a visit to the nearby fleamarket at Mauerpark, followed by a walk on Museum Island and dinner on the terrace at The Grand.” – Swen Roessler, Grand Hyatt Berlin “I like to meet friends for breakfast in one of the city’s many cafés. Refueled, I enjoy walking through the districts of Berlin, because every neighborhood has its own unique character to discover. I also like visiting the city’s many galleries to let the art inspire me.” –Gerhard Buskies, Hilton Berlin Images: Shopping on the Ku'damm, breakfast at Anna Blume; Zoo Palast.

Berlin Schönefeld (SXF) Approx. 20 km (12 miles) southeast of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By regional train: Deutsche Bahn-operated

RE7 or RB14 to Ostbahnhof, Alexanderplatz, Hauptbahnhof, and Zoologischer Garten. RE9 to Hauptbahnhof via Südkreuz and Potsdamer Platz. Trains take approx. 45 mins. Tickets cost €3.40. By S-Bahn: Trains S9 and S45 to Hauptbahnhof, via Ostkreuz and Südkreuz respectively, run. every 20 mins, taking approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.40. By U-Bahn: Bus X7 and X11 to Rudow station connect with the U-Bahn system and run every 10 mins. Journey approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.40. By (night) bus: Arrivals between midnight and 4am Mon–Fri can take bus N7 to central areas. By taxi: Regular cabs take approx. 30 mins to city center, costing €30–€40. Left luggage: At the multi-storey car park P4. T: 030.60911150.

GETTING AROUND Public Transport www.bvg.de.

Fares Buy tickets from machines in the station, and be sure to validate them in the posts next to the ticket machines. Single tickets cost €2.80; or save by paying €9 for four single-trip tickets, which you can validate as you need. If traveling fewer than three train stations or six bus or tram stops, buy a short-trip ticket for €1.70. Day tickets cost €7 for unlimited travel until 3am the following day, or if you are traveling with others, a small group ticket will get up to five people unlimited travel for €19.90. For those staying longer, a pass valid for seven days may be a better value at €30.

KU'DAMM: © ISTOCK; ANNA BLUME: COURTESY OF ANNA BLUME; ZOO PALAST: COURTESY OF ZOO PALAST, PHOTO BY JAN BITTER.

ASK THE CONCIERGE

run every 10 mins, taking approx. 20 mins. The TXL express bus to Alexanderplatz via Hauptbahnhof runs every 5–10 mins, taking. 25 mins. Single tickets cost €2.80 and can be bought on board. By U-Bahn: Bus 109 or X9 connects to the U-Bahn system at Jakob-Kaiser-Platz. Bus 128 links to the U-Bahn at Kurt-Schumacher-Platz and runs every 10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. Tickets cost €2.80. By taxi: Regular cabs take 10–20 mins to city center. Approx. €20–€35. Left luggage: Service center in Terminal A (ground floor). T: 030.41012315.

ESSENTIALS U-Bahn The underground system is extensive. Most lines run every five minutes (less frequently outside working hours), 4am–12:30am (replaced by night buses outside of these times). The entire U-Bahn and S-Bahn network runs all night on weekends.

S-Bahn The above-ground system is faster than the U-Bahn but less frequent. Trains run every 10–20 mins. Timing and ticket rules apply as above.

Public Ferries With a regular BVG ticket ,you can hop on one of the six public ferry lines. Most beautiful is the trip from Wannsee to lakeside Kladow village; ferries leave every hour and take about 20 minutes.

Rail Travel Deutsche Bahn is the railway company that manages the Regional Bahn (RB) and Regional Express (RE) trains, operating around greater Berlin and Potsdam. The Intercity (IC) and European City (EC) trains travel further afield. www.bahn.de. Toll number: 0180.6996633.

Rent A Bike Explore Berlin by bike.

ION STAFT THE O NTH MO

Wilmersdorfer Strasse (U7) The U7 is not just the longest line on Berlin’s U-Bahn network, it’s also one of the most picturesque. A number of the stations along the western end of the line feature eye-catching décor, such as these riotously colorful and wonderfully retro tile mosaics at Wilmersdorfer Strasse. The station is a busy hop-off point for shoppers heading to the street’s bustling pedestrian shopping area, one of the most popular commercial districts in the city.

Taxis

Tax-Free Shopping

Würfelfunk: T: 030.210101.

German law entitles all non-EU residents to a VAT tax refund. Look for stores displaying the Premier Tax Free sign and ask for a "tax-free form." When leaving the EU, goods and the completed form must be shown to a customs agent, from which a customs stamp must be obtained no more than three months after the date of purchase. Goods must be unused. Present the stamped form at the refund counter in the airport, or send it to Premier Tax Free as soon as you reach your destination. www.premiertaxfree.com.

MONEY SERVICES

Deutsche Bahn Call-a-Bike service:

Banks and Foreign Exchange

www.callabike.de. Berlin and Bike: www.berlinandbike.de. T: 0163.5120124.

Exchange AG: Friedrichstr. 172. T: 030.20649296. Deutsche Bank: Kurfürstendamm 111. T: 030.8904370.

Rent a Car

American Express: T: 069.97972000 Diners Club: T: 07531.3633111 MasterCard: T: 0800.8191040 Visa: T: 0800.8118440

MAP LICENSE NUMBER: BVG-0050.16; UBAHN: © ISTOCK PHOTO.

Avis: www.avis.com. T: 0180.6217702 (toll number) Europcar: www.europcar.com. T: 040.52018765 Hertz: www.hertz.com. T: 0180.6003690

Lost Cards and Cheques

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WHERE NOW | LUISA GIANNITTI

LUISA GIANNITTI OWNER, LUISAKOCHT Luisa left behind a career in marketing to follow her true passion: food. And not just any food, but the famously delicious cuisine of her home city of Naples. LuisaKocht provides not only Italian catering but also cooking workshops, tastings, and other events, operating out of her gourmet shop in Prenzlauer Berg (Danziger Str. 49) that’s packed with tasty Italian delights. www.luisakocht.de

What brought you to Berlin, and how did you end up opening your own fine foods store? I took German studies in university, in both Italy and Germany, and during my studies it was immediately clear that I wanted to move to Berlin. This city, the people, the culture, and the mentality always fascinated me. I studied business at Berlin’s Free University and then worked as a marketing manager for various companies. I founded LuisaKocht at the end of 2013, and figured out early on that I wanted to have my own store too. I wanted to create a place where people can not only get hard-tofind Italian products, but also take a real Italian experience home with them. You’ve said that your shop is about bringing a piece of the southern Italian lifestyle to this city. We offer the very best that south Italian cuisine has to offer at the moment. Not just with the top-quality products that we have in stock, but also with the know-how that we share via our recipes. What would you recommend to a complete newbie to Italian cooking? Our fresh pasta or pizza kits. Containing all the necessary ingredients and a recipe, these kits enable people to easily make a delicious meal at home. We also have fresh pizza dough, which makes it fast and easy to make delicious 58 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U N E 2017

homemade pizza. There’s lots more to discover: over 18 different kinds of tomatoes from Campania; wild fennel pesto from the Agrestis company in Sicily; preserved vegetables from the Terra Generosa company on the Amalfi coast, made with top-quality olive oil; and jam from a vintner in Emilia-Romagna, who makes a sensational Lambrusco in a way that is not yet known in Germany. When you don’t feel like cooking, where do you go to eat and drink well? It has to be said, in Berlin we are truly spoiled in all things culinary. At the moment, my favorite restaurants and wine bars are Brasserie Lumières (Potsdamer Str. 102, www. brasserielumieres.com), Schwein (Elisabethkirchstr. 2, www.schwein.online), and Kumami (Kietzer Str. 3, www.kumamiberlin.com). The best gelato in Berlin? And the best pizza? Anna Durkes in Kreuzberg (Graefestr. 80, w. ww.annadurkes.com) for gelato, and Standard in Prenzlauer Berg (Templiner Str. 7, www. standard-berlin.de) for pizza. Which part of the city do you call home? I live in Lichterfelde West, which is a great place

to be. You’re still in Berlin, and yet living amongst greenery and can enjoy the nature. When the weather is nice, I relax after work on my balcony and it feels like I’m on vacation. My favorite place in the neighborhood is the Botanical Garden (Königin-Luise-Str. 6-8, www. bgbm.org). Imagine you have an entire day off to spend however you choose. What would your perfect Berlin day look like? First I would have an espresso at Chapter One in Kreuzberg (Mittenwalder Str. 30, www.chapter-one-coffee. com) or Godshot in Prenzlauer Berg (Immanuelkirchstr. 32, www. godshot.de) – Gian Zaniol, the 2017 Italian Brewers Cup Champion, works there. Afterward I’d head to Bread Station in Kreuzberg (Maybachufer 16) for a croissant, then to the market at Winterfeldtplatz to do my shopping. Lunch would be Japanese food at Sasaya in Prenzlauer Berg (Lychener Str. 50, www.sasaya-berlin.de), and dinner at Panama (Potsdamer Str. 91, www.oh-panama.com).

Clockwise from top left: The market in Winterfeldtplatz; Luisa Giannitti; espresso; the interior of Panama; thick-crusted, Neapolitan pizza; ice cream from Anna Durkes.

WINTERFELDTPLATZ MARKET CC BY2.0 VIA FLICKR USER ALPER ÇUGUN; LUISA GIANNITTI : COURTESY OF LUISA GIANNITTI AND LUISAKOCHT; PANAMA: © PHILIPP LANGENHEIM & CORINA SCHADENDORF; ESPRESSO: © ISTOCK; PIZZA: COURTESY OF STANDARD PIZZA; ICE CREAM: COURTESY OF ANNA DURKES.

My Berlin

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