Where Berlin March 2017

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CITY OF MUSIC Berlin’s best spots for concerts, from classical to jazz to rock

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Berlin

CONTENTS

03.17 See more of Berlin at wheretraveler.com

The Plan Let’s get started

The Guide The best of Berlin

14

SHOPPING

18

5 Editor’s Note

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6 Hot Dates Highlights of the month's can't-miss events, from an ice skating extravaganza to a rave party from the '90s.

Accessorizing is the best part of getting dressed in the morning.

SIGHTSEEING

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XX Façades of ornate tiling and flora, in true Art Nouveau style.

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

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The how-to guide to become an expert XX in 20th-century history.

DINING

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Mitte: the city center, with great food and drink options to work into your itinerary.

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XX

Meral Al-Mer Music and dancing tips from a Berlin-based singer and writer.

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The roaring '20s cabaret scene is alive and thriving in Berlin.

NIGHTLIFE

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Also Inside 54 Ask The Concierge

Knock back a pint of Guinness and stamp your feet to Gaelic tunes at this year's St Paddy's festivities.

A collection of the best tips from Berlin concierges.

ESSENTIALS

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The stories behind the symbols that shout Berlin.

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ON THE COVER

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Berlin's best beauty spots will have you looking as fresh as a daisy.

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14 Top 10 Berlin Icons

SHOPPING | ENTERTAINMENT | CULTURE | DINING | MAPS

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Uplifting beats and melodious sounds from Berlin's music scene.

16 A Fresh Start

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Berlin’s best spots for concerts, from classical to jazz to rock

10 Music To The Ears

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TOP 10 BERLIN ICONS BEAUTY TIPS ST. PATRICK’S DAY

CITY OF MUSIC

Where Now

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RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

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From transport to emergency numbers, find useful information for your stay in Berlin.

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ENTERTAINMENT

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4 W H E R E B E R L I N I M A R C H 2017

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WELCOME TO BERLIN

Inspiring Discoveries

PORTRAIT BY THOMAS HEDRICH/FOTOSTUDIO-CHARLOTTENBURG; SKYLINE © TOTALPICS/ISTOCK/THINKSTOCK

What's more exciting, mind-opening, and stimulating than traveling? Visiting a new place, with its new atmospheres, smells, and sounds triggers new emotions, creates new memories, and makes us forget the hardships and responsibilities of everyday life.

Berlin is perfect for this. No matter how many times you've been here, there's always something new to discover.

Museum openings, shifting nightlife scenes, and massive renovations mean Berlin is a city in constant motion.

This month, conductor Daniel Barenboim will inaugurate his brand-new Barenboim-Said Akademie, seeking to unite talented musicians from the Middle East, North Africa, and around the world. And while the Staatsoper packs up to move back to its traditional seat on Unter den Linden after years of renovations, the Berliner Schloss opposite Museum Island has already opened its doors to the ethnological collections of the Dahlem Museum, which will be moved to the Schloss's Humboldt Forum this year.

But you don't need to book an opera ticket to take in the city's vibrant atmosphere. It is enough to just walk around its neighborhoods, absorb the creative atmosphere, and let it inspire your next adventures.

FIND Festival International New Drama Democracy and Tragedy 30/3/17–9/4/17

SOLVEIG STEINHARDT EDITOR, WHERE BERLIN

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HOT

DATES March in Berlin is a month of fabulous events, from legendary photographers and film festivals to heavy metal and contemporary music.

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HOLIDAY ON ICE: BELIEVE FROM FRIDAY

This modern enactment of Shakespeare’s classic Romeo and Juliet story of forbidden love from two different worlds is performed completely on ice at Berlin’s Tempodrom until 12 March.

Viewers are dazzled with colorful costumes, stunning backdrops, moving music, and, unlike in the tragic original, a happy ending. www.tempodrom.de

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WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

ITB BERLIN

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FROM SATURDAY

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The largest travel trade fair worldwide, ITB encompasses some 10,000 presenters showcasing destinations and products from over 180 countries.

Located at the sprawling Berlin Messe fairgrounds, the weeklong event is organized not only by region of the world, but also by nearly every travel niche possible, from medical tourism to LGBT travel. Botswana, this year's official partner country, will have several booths devoted to the eco-friendly destination. www.itb-berlin.de

FOOTBALL FILM FESTIVAL FROM THURSDAY

Still reveling from its World Cup victory in 2014, football is one of Germany’s greatest prides. At the 14th annual 11mm festival, Berlin’s club for sports and culture Brot und Spiele (Bread and Games) showcases the sport through 50 short films and documentaries from around the globe, from Berlin to Brazil. Until 3 April. www.11-mm.de

A RAVE FROM THE '90S

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Lace up your old Buffalo shoes and dance the night away to nine legendary German DJs of the '90s. Cult favorites such as Maruska, Brooklyn Bounce, and DJ Quicksilver are slated to spin techno and trance hits such as Da Beat Goes, Somewhere Over the Rainbow and Right in the Night at Berlin’s massive Arena auditorium. www.90er-rave.de w w w. w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 7

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Robert Doisneau

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UNTIL SUNday

Best known for his blackand-white photo of a kissing couple outside a Parisian cafe, iconic photographer Robert Doisneau captured many everyday moments of life in Paris during and after World War II. Don’t miss this last chance to see his multifaceted photos on display and visit the exhibition at Martin-Gropius-Bau before it closes on 5 March. www.berlinerfestspiele.de

Korn on Tour

28 TUESday

The classic California heavy metal band will be taking center stage at Berlin’s Velodrom to perform from their new and 12th album The Serenity of Suffering, including the hit single Rotting in Vain. The group first rose to prominence in 1994 with their self-titled debut album and have been captivating listeners with their edgy songs since. www.velodrom.de

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MärzMusik FROM THURSDAY

This one-of-a-kind festival taking place every year combines ensemble music with discussions and multifaceted modern art installations for 10 days of pure aural discovery. This year's exciting lineup includes everything from a light and sound exhibit to a panel on how time is depicted in video games, as well as music from renowned artists such as pianist Julius Eastman, concertists The Cypriot Vespers, and The Long Now, an installation on the meaning of time. www.berlinerfestspiele.de

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Hot Dates

March

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Talk a stroll through Tiergarten, then warm up by the fireplace at Café am neuen See. Don't miss Minnie, Mickey, and the whole gang in the Disney on Ice show at Velodrom.

Toast to the weekend at Hopfenreich, featuring Berlin's biggest craft beer range.

Keen on cocktails? Don't miss the creative mixology at Mitte's Redwood bar.

The show of iconic photographer Robert Doisneau ends at Martin-Gropius-Bau today.

Catch a film at CineStar Potsdamer Platz, which specializes in movies in English.

Take a musical lunch break at the Philharmonie's free "lunch concert" at 1pm.

See the dazzling Holiday on Ice show at Tempodrom from tonight until Sunday.

Canadian superstar Drake brings his Hotline Bling to Mercedes-Benz Arena tonight .

Admire the Staatsballett dancing Jewels, by choreography legend George Balanchine.

If you like bagpipes, you'll love tonight's Music Show Scotland event at Velodrom.

Hear all the highlights of Wagner's oeuvre at the Staatsoper's Wagner gala tonight.

Discover the work of influential architect & artist Frederick Kiesler at Martin-Gropius-Bau. New at the Kunstbibliothek: an exhibit on contemporary Chinese poster & book design.

Visit Chamäleon Theater to see Scotch & Soda, a fun, lively mix of circus and jazz.

Feast on international delicacies at the Street Food Thursday event at Markthalle Neun.

Hit the dance floor at Clärchens Ballhaus, Mitte's charming centenarian dance hall.

Fancy a big night out? Enjoy decadent dinner, drinks, and dancing at Bar Tausend.

For antique fans, the Sunday flea market on Tiergarten's Straße des 17. Juni is a must.

Better bring some kleenex: Puccini's tragic opera Madama Butterfly is on at Staatsoper.

Head to Friedrichstadt-Palast for The One, a show featuring Gaultier costumes.

Admire the famous bust of Nefertiti, queen of Ancient Egypt, at the Neues Museum.

Kirill Petrenko, the next head conductor at the Philharmonie, gives a special preview tonight.

Cheer on the home team at Alba Berlin's basketball game at Mercedes-Benz Arena.

Mark the weekend with cocktails at Bryk, Prenzlauer Berg's chicest nightlife spot.

Enjoy the scenery around Schlachtensee lake with a stop for cocoa at Fischerhütte.

Hear some cool music at the Experimontag event at Kreuzberg's Madame Claude venue.

Browse the lively Maybachufer Turkish market along the canal in Kreuzberg.

Pop in to the Konzerthaus for the afternoon Espresso Concert – it's "caffeine for the ears"!

Dave Matthews, head of the much-loved Dave Matthews Band, sings at Columbiahalle.

Just opened at Alte Nationalgalerie: Small Masterpieces, a show of rare, mini paintings.

holiday on ice: courtesy of holiday on ice; football: © istock; brooklyn bounce, courtesy of 90er rave; robert doisneau, le baiser, courtesy of martin-gropius-bau; korn: press photo 2016, © dean karr; Jennifer walshe © blackie bouffant, courtesy of berliner festspiele.

Where now | calendar

For more ideas, see our Entertainment section.

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WHERE NOW | DANIEL MUSIC VENUES BRÜHL

E R U O Y TO

S R A

From classical symphonies to contemporary jazz to indie rock, Berlin has something for every kind of music fan. Hilda Hoy sums up the best venues and events of the month.

M

arch is always a musical month in Berlin. Spring is around the corner, and as the city begins to emerge from its long hibernation, there’s nothing better to uplift the soul and enliven the spirit than the melodious sounds of music. From world-renowned symphony halls to dark, cozy bars hosting experimental electronica and improv jazz, Berlin’s vast yet accessible music scene has something for every kind of music-lover – you just have to know where to look.

For starters, there’s this month’s Maerzmusik festival (16–26 March, www. maerzmusik.de), a thought-provoking annual event dedicated to using music in all its forms to explore pressing contemporary themes, from global political affairs to community issues. In addition to sound installations, film screenings, and workshops, this year’s program includes the Everything is Important performance on 19 March at Haus der Berliner Festspiele, featuring several boundary-pushing string quartets, playing in part in complete darkness. The final two days of the festival will feature The Long Now, a continuous, 30-hour live music installation in the jaw-dropping setting of a former power plant.

Attendees can linger and listen for as long as they like, even spending the night on provided cots.

Another musical highlight of the month is the grand opening of the Pierre Boulez Saal (Französische

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KONZERTHAUS: © MARCO BORGGREVE, COURTESY OF KONZERTHAUS BERLIN; HOCHSCHULE FÜR MUSIK HANNS EISLER: © KÄMPER; PHILHARMONIE: © ISTOCK; FESTSAAL KREUZBERG, COURETSY OF FESTSAAL KREUZBERG; MUSICIANS: ©ISTOCK.

Str. 33D, www.boulezsaal.de), a new world-class concert venue designed by the venerable Frank Gehry. The Saal is part of the Barenboim-Said Akademie, a music academy co-founded by renowned conductor Daniel Barenboim and influential writer Edward Said. Throughout the month, the brand-new venue will host numerous top-caliber concerts from the Boulez Ensemble, amongst others. Daniel Barenboim himself will appear on stage several times, dazzling on the piano with renditions of some of Schubert’s greatest compositions.

KEEPING IT CLASSICAL For fans of classical music, Berlin has so much more in store. The city’s Philharmonie (www.berlinerphilharmoniker.de) for example, is already known far and wide. Highlights at the concert hall this month include pianist Martha Argerich playing on 2 March with the Kremerata Baltica chamber orchestra, and an East-meets-West concert on 4 March with the Berlin Philharmonic performing a composition by late sitar artist Ravi Shankar.

The beautiful neo-classical Konzerthaus (www.konzerthaus.de) right on Mitte’s Gendarmenmarkt square also regularly hosts classical music greats. On 24 March, hear the Berlin Radio Symphony Orchestra and the RIAS Chamber Choir perform several works by Mozart.

For a one-of-a-kind musical experience, an evening at Piano Salon Christophori (Uferstr. 8, www.konzertfluegel.com) is an absolute must. In the charmingly post-industrial setting of a former subway train workshop, the salon hosts intimate, donation-based concerts featuring both small- and big-time pianists. An equally striking venue is the Spiegelsaal ballroom on the upper floor of Clärchens Ballhaus (Auguststr. 24, www.spiegelsaal-berlin. de), which has been welcoming music and dance lovers since 1913. The gorgeous, candlelit, mirror-lined ballroom hosts occasional concerts that are announced spontaneously – check www.

sonntagskonzerte.de for program updates.

And for a taste of what the next generation of classical music will have to offer, check out the concert program at the Hochschule Hanns Eisler (Schlossplatz 7, www.hfmberlin.de). Students of the renowned music college regularly play free concerts to show off their growing talent.

ALL THAT JAZZ If jazz, not classical, is what floats your boat, there are clubs and bars dotting the city where jazz fans of any stripe can get their fix. One of the most well known is b-flat just off Alexanderplatz (Dircksenstr. 40, www.b-flat-berlin.de), where the nightly concerts run the gamut from old-school big-band tunes to modern, Latin-tinged, or soulful vocal jazz. Kreuzberg

has Yorckschlösschen (Yorckstr. 15, www.yorckschloesschen.de), a laid-back neighborhood pub that hosts jazz, blues, and swing concerts several nights a week.

It’s a welcoming spot to have a bite and a drink while enjoying some tunes, with a chilled-out atmosphere borrowed from the jazz honky-tonks of New Orleans’ French Quarter.

Charlottenburg’s Quasimodo (Kantstr. 12a, www.quasimodo.de) has the distinction of being one of the city’s oldest jazz clubs, with big names like Branford Marsalis and Prince having made an appearance over the years. It’s just one of a cluster of venues that make Charlottenburg the city’s jazz central: Nearby is also A-Trane (Bleibtreustr. 1, www.a-trane. de), another classic jazz club dating back more than 20 years. This snug corner bar just off

Above: Yoga inside the Konzerthaus. From far left: The façade of the Hochschule für Musik Hanns Eisler; the Philharmonie; the new location of Festsaal Kreuzberg.

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Savignyplatz is the perfect spot to take in some lively tunes, with shows held every evening. Night owls will love the free latenight jam session on 4 March, starting at midnight and going well into the wee hours.

The third venue in the Charlottenburg jazz trifecta is The Hat (Lotte-Lenya-Bogen 550, www.thehatbar.de), a 1920s-style jazz bar with a cool film Noir vibe, located in the arches under the S-Bahn tracks. As trains rumble overhead, sip some whiskey or a classic cocktail and enjoy the hot jazz sounds emanating from the tiny stage. The music is free, the drinks strong, and the atmosphere chill – what more could anyone want?

From Pop To Rock While Charlottenburg may the center of Berlin’s jazz scene, Kreuzberg is where it’s at when it comes to pop, rock, indie, and other contemporary genres, with busy venues like Lido (Cuvrystr. 7, www.lido-berlin.de).

Since 2006, this one-time cinema space has been a go-to venue for fun, rowdy

shows from bands big and small, local and international. On weekends, they host parties like Soul Explosion, Balkanbeats, and Paranoid, a garage rock and ‘70s rock smashfest where you can headbang to your heart’s content. Just down the street is Festsaal Kreuzberg (Am Flutgraben 2, www.festsaalkreuzberg.de), a longtime musical institution that had to close in 2013 after a devastating fire. Just last month, it was finally

able to reopen in the space once occupied

by White Trash Fast Food, another legendary musical location. The concert program is slowly being built up again, so check the website regularly for updates.

Fans of indie and experimental music will be right at home at Madame Claude (Lübbener Str. 19, www.madameclaude. de), a fun and funky music bar housed in a former brothel. Descending the stairs into the basement space, you might start feeling a little topsy-turvy – thanks to the living room’s worth of furniture attached upside-down to the ceiling. There’s something happening every night of the week, from kooky Experimontag Mondays, Campfire Session Tuesdays with chilled-out singersongwriters, and Freaky Fridays (no explanation needed). Feeling particularly inspired? Join one of the Sunday evening open mic sessions and share your musical side with an audience of fellow aficionados.

Top photos: The Hat; this photo: the Pierre Boulez Saal of the Barenboim-Said Akademie.

saxophone player: © istock; The hat Bar: couretsy of the hat bar berlin; Pierre boulez saal: courtesy of barenboim-said akademie.

Where now | MUSIC VENUEs

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Happy

March International Womens Day Adress: Liepziger Platz 12 Piazza 1.OG

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WHERE NOW | BERLIN ICONS

BERLIN'S TOP TEN @

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pend enough time in Berlin and you’ll hit upon recurring icons, each one having an interesting tale to tell about Berlin’s tumultuous history. Encompassing such themes as World War II, the Cold War, and German nationalism, these icons are bound to leave a lasting impression.

! FULL HOUSE The seat of parliament is a symbol of any capital city and the Reichstag (Platz der Republik 1. www.bundestag.de) in Berlin, the second-most-visited attraction in Germany, is no exception. (In first place is the Cologne Cathedral.) Famous for the fire of 1933, which the Nazis blamed on the communists in order to instate emergency powers, it was reconstructed in 1999 with a huge glass dome erected on the roof looking down into the main hall.

Open to the public, the dome represents transparency of power and also has great 360-degree views over the city. Admission is free, but photo ID and advance registration online or at the nearby visitors’ service center are mandatory (www.bundestag.de).

it became a Prussian triumphal arch. When the Berlin Wall came down, thousands of people flocked to the gate to celebrate, including Pink Floyd, with an unforgettable performance of Another Brick in the Wall.

# SOVIET SPUTNIK The 368-meter-tall Fernsehturm (www. tv-turm.de), or TV tower, is the tallest building in Germany and Berlin’s most visible landmark. Built by the GDR in the 1960s, its structure symbolized the regime's strength and efficiency, and its enthusiasm for technology. From a dizzying 207 meters, visitors can take a seat in the revolving restaurant or head to the observation deck for views of Berlin, which on a clear day can stretch nearly 60 km (37 miles). For a novel souvenir, pick up a TV-Tower-shaped bottle of peppermint schnapps from Berliner Luft (www.berlinerluft.berlin).

@ ARC DE BERLIN

$ MORE SAUSAGE PLEASE

Only a few hundred meters away and backdrop to many Berlin news reports is the Brandenburg Gate. This monumental gate to renowned boulevard Unter den Linden was built in the late 18th century as a sign of peace and after Napoleon’s defeat in 1814

Sausage, ketchup, and curry powder are the simple ingredients to Berlin’s most popular street food, the Currywurst. Head to Curry36 (Mehringdamm 36,

www.curry36.de) or Konnopke’s Imbiss (Schönhauser Allee 44A, www.konnopkeimbiss.de) to taste what is reportedly the best in town. If you still haven’t gotten enough of this legendary snack, at the Currywurst Museum (Schützenstr. 70, www.currywurstmuseum.com), you can enjoy virtual Currywurst making and a spicesniffing chamber.

% START YOUR ENGINES The Trabant car is a symbol of the fall of communism, as many East Germans streamed into the West in their Trabis after the Wall was opened in 1989. The noisy, inefficient two-stroke engine may be a thing of the past, but it still makes ^ for an authentic Berlin trip.

Rent one from Trabi Safari Berlin (www.trabi-safari.de) or join a tour convoy with live commentary streaming through the radio. Their two-hour Wall Ride includes a look at the East Side Gallery and obligatory police harassment at Checkpoint Charlie.

^ LOOK RIGHT, LOOK LEFT Introduced to improve pedestrian safety in 1960s

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MARLENE DIETRICH: COURTESY OF THE MARLENE DIETRICH ARCHIV, MUSEUM FOR FILM AND TELEVISION BERLIN. ALL OTHER

Annabelle Mallia unfolds the story behind the symbols of Berlin.

10 )

%

!

MARLENE DIETRICH: COURTESY OF THE MARLENE DIETRICH ARCHIV, MUSEUM FOR FILM AND TELEVISION BERLIN. ALL OTHER PHOTOS: © ISTOCK.

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*

games has taken on the form of these friendly and sociable figures.

& BEARS, BEARS, EVERYWHERE Depicted on the city's coat of arms, the bear is the emblem of Berlin. This became even more so the case after The Buddy Bear Berlin Show in June 2001. Featuring colorful, two-meter-tall bear statues, the sidewalk exhibition received so much attention, many were privately bought and displayed all over the city. They were even taken abroad, turning the Buddy Bears into global ambassadors of Berlin. Pick up your own miniature version at stores such as Berlin Story (www.berlinstory.de, Unter den Linden 40), or go to KPM-Berlin (Wegelystr.

1, www.kpm-berlin.com) for a luxury porcelain Berlin bear dressed like the Kaiser.

* LIGHTS, CAMERA, ACTION!

East Berlin, the Ampelmännchen have since been elevated to almost cult status and adopted in the western part of the city, too.

With their big-hatted head and short stubby legs, they can still be seen doing their duty on traffic lights all over town. Visit one of the many AMPELMANN shops (www. ampelmann.de), where everything from T-shirts and bags to pasta and Monopoly

Marlene Dietrich (1901–1992) remains one of Berlin’s most famous and beloved movie stars, gracing the screens during the cabaret days of Weimar-era Berlin.

Her breakthrough role came with the film The Blue Angel, much of which was shot at Potsdam’s Babelsberg Studio (www. studiobabelsberg.com), Europe’s largest movie studio. She lies buried in a cemetery in Friedenau and much of her memorabilia can be viewed at the Museum for Film and Television (Potsdamer Str. 2, www. deutsche-kinemathek.de).

( DOUGHNUT KING A Berliner is nothing more than a jam-filled doughnut, which is why locals had a chuckle when President Kennedy said "Ich bin ein Berliner" (I am a doughnut), in his famous 1963 speech at Rathaus Schöneberg (John-FKennedy-Platz). Traditionally eaten for Carnival, they can be purchased year round on pretty much every street corner. The best are at Bäckerei Siebert (Schönfließer Str. 12) or Bäckerei Balzer (Sophienstr. 31).

#

10 NIGHT OWLS )

Now officially recognized as part of the city’s unique cultural fabric and enjoying the same tax benefits as museums and theaters, the techno temple Berghain (p.

61) is a major draw for many visitors. The club is famous for its wild parties, sound system, and tight doors – play it cool and casual to get the bouncer's nod of approval. w w w. w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 15

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Where now | BEAUTY

Clockwise from left: the Women's Room at Wheadon; Beauty expert and cosmetics manufacturer Catherine Frimmel; barbershop services; nail polish collections.

A Fresh Start Y

ou may not feel it yet, at least here in Berlin, but spring is near. And while the first leaves on the trees may still be a month away, now is a good time to clean out our makeup bags, stock up on new colors, and prepare our skin, nails, and hair for their encounter with the long-forgotten rays of sun.

For a haircut in pure Berlin style, JACKS Beauty Department (Kastanienallee 19, www-jacks-beautydepartment.de), founded by successful makeup artist Miriam Jacks, offers the latest 'dos and a variety of products from niche brands, as well as lots of beauty treatments, including makeup lessons and tips for those who need a little extra help.

Wheadon beauty salon in Mitte (Steinstr.

15, www.wheadon.de) caters to both ladies and gents; in addition to skin treatments, quick brow styling sessions, and makeup services, Wheadon also specializes in pampering men with services such as clean shaves done the old-fashiond way, beard trims and washes, and revitalizing face treatments.

For the perfect manicure, make an appointment at the Catherine Berlin nail salon in Charlottenburg (Knesebeckstr.

35-37). Founded by beauty expert and cosmetics manufacturer Catherine Frimmel (pictured above), the salon offers exclusive and personalized nail treatments, from nail modeling with gel to classic manicures or

more creative looks. Her salon is also the right spot for a relaxing and rejuvenating hand massage. This spring, Frimmel will be celebrating the season's freshness by stocking all dark colors away, and taking out a whole new palette of bright and vivid hues instead. Her Viva La Vida collection is inspired by the theme of travel, "with lilac to represent the happiness you feel when you visit a place for the first time, orange standing for the pleasure of traveling, and gold-brown reminding us of our purest dreams," she told Where Berlin.

Frimmel's cosmetics collection includes a wide range of products, from nail polish to makeup, lotions, and accessories. "I let the current international fashion trends bring me inspiration and advice. Color and patterns shape our lives, and I like to let myself get carried away by the colorful textures of India, or by the extravagant designs of Paris," she explains.

And since spring is all about reawakening our senses, why not also stimulate our olfactory cells with a visit to nearby Belle Rebelle on Bleibtreustr. 42 (www.bellerebelle.de)? Corinna MoslerJakobsohn, owner of this tiny but wellstocked shop, travels the world to select the best and most exclusive perfumes, including the legendary Acqua di Sale

by Profvmvm, recalling the scent of the Mediterranean sea and inspiring sunny walks down the cliffs of, say, Elba Island.

All photos: © istock.

In preparation for spring, Solveig Steinhardt visits some of Berlin's best beauty salons.

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SHOPPING | THE GUIDE

More Is More With the right accessories, you can dress up any simple outfit. Matching your hat to your shoes and your bag, however, is rather outdated – best to mix things up a little.

Here are some of my favorite stores for the right accessories.

Stepping inside Le Coup (Steinstr. 16, www. lecoupshoes.com) is any shoe lover's wildest dream. This women’s shoe emporium in Mitte’s fashion district offers contemporary footwear from a selection of avant-garde labels handpicked for their eccentricity, ethical concept, and outright style. Nearby Shusta (Rosenthaler Str. 72, www.shusta.de) blends unconventional urban looks with everyday styles for not only women, but for fashion-conscious men too. The focus here is quality and originality, featuring mostly

spectacular couture creations displayed in unknown labels not available anywhere else this little boutique like works of art. in Berlin.

As for bags, you can never have too many.

Few accessories make a bolder statement There is the hipster’s signature than a hat. As a beginner hat wearer, messenger bag done in tarp I tend to stick to award-winning material by MilkBerlin (Torstr.

Rike Feurstein (Rosa102, www.milkberlin.com) or Luxemburg-Str. 28, www. bold leather bags rikefeurstein.com). From epitomizing Berlin’s suave trilby hats to elegant fashionable urban lifestyle cloches, each piece

by Liebeskind (www. displays character while liebeskind-berlin.com). But still remaining low-key for that feminine touch no enough for everyday wear. one else is carrying, visit Les For more daring individuals A creation by Fiona Bennett Jolies Choses (Kleine Hamburger or that special event, I Str. 15). These hand-sewn, fanciful recommend Berlin-based milliner pouches are made out of printed fabrics Fiona Bennett (Potsdamer Str. 81-83, www. fionabennett.de). Her motto, "all good things sourced from the designer’s native Paris and are truly one of a kind. come from above," is evident in the

FIONA BENNETT: COURTESY OF FIONA BENNETT; ALL OTHER PHOTOS: © ISTOCK.

According to Annabelle Mallia, accessorizing is the best part of getting dressed.

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Fiona bennett: courtesy of fiona bennett; all other photos: © istock.

SHOPPING

THE

where GUIDELINES

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Every effort is made to provide accurate and updated information.

However, information may be subject to last minute changes, so it is always advisable to call ahead.

INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS T: Telephone number S: S-Bahn, Above-ground train system U: U-Bahn, Underground train system MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 55–57.

Opening Hours Opening hours may vary, so it’s best to call ahead.

Shops are open Mon–Sat only, and Sunday shopping is only possible on certain Sundays of the year. This year, these are: 12 March, 7 May, 3 September, 1 October, 5 November, 3 December, 17 December.

Groceries can be bought on Sundays at major train stations (Hauptbahnhof, Friedrichstraße, at Ullrich at Zoologischer Garten, or Ostbahnhof ). Shopping malls are open 10am–8pm and smaller stores only until 6pm.

Tourist Information VisitBerlin is the official source of information on the city. Call T: 030.25002333 for specific Berlin information, or go to www.visitberlin.de for details on all information centers, events, and sights.

Tourist Info Points: Brandenburg Gate – Pariser Platz, daily 9:30am–6pm (until 7pm in summer).

Hauptbahnhof – Europaplatz 1, Level 0, daily 8am–9pm.

TV Tower Alexanderplatz – Panoramastr. 1a, daily 10am–4pm.

in 1982. www.europa-center-berlin.de.

Tauentzienstr. 9–12. T: 030.26497940.

U Kurfürstendamm, U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Galeria Kaufhof The former East German department store, renovated in 2006, showcases more than 600 exclusive brands and an exquisite gourmet section covering 35,000sq.m (377,000sq.ft) of space. www.galeria-kaufhof.de. Alexanderplatz 9.

T: 030.247430. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Galeries Lafayette The Berlin branch of the exclusive Parisian department store is developed around an extraordinary glass cone. The three circular floors rise up around this centerpiece, packed with perfumes, clothing, and accessories. The food counter offers a wide range of French specialties and there’s a corner selling teas from the famed French tea house Mariage Frères. www.galerieslafayette.de.

Friedrichstr. 76–78. T: 030.209480.

U Französische Straße. E3

Kaufhaus des Westens (KaDeWe) The biggest and oldest department store in Germany sells only products of the highest quality.

If you're short on time, the legendary gourmet food hall on the sixth floor is not to be missed. www.kadewe.de. Tauentzienstr. 21–24.

T: 030.21210. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Mall of Berlin 270 shops, 270 apartments, gyms, and pedestrian areas define the new Mall of Berlin on Leipziger Platz, a world of shopping opportunities a stone’s throw from the city’s main tourist attractions. www.mallofberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 12.

U Mohrenstraße. E3

Potsdamer Platz Arkaden This large shopping center offers more than 120 shops over three floors, stocking everything from clothes and accessories to electronics and groceries. Its restaurants and bars, both inside and in surrounding streets, also make it a very popular meeting spot. www.potsdamer-platz-arkaden.de.

Alte Potsdamer Str. 7. T: 030.2559270.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Concept Stores Herrlich Germany’s first concept store for men’s gifts offers unique trinkets that beat socks any day, from an old-fashioned brush-and-blade shaving set to a miniature espresso machine for en route. www.herrlich-berlin.de. Bergmannstr. 2.

T: 030.7845395. U Gneisenaustraße. E5

Manufactum Their catalogue enjoys an almost cult-like status for its German language prowess, but better still is to visit the store itself. They collect

Department stores & malls Alexa Hardcore shoppers love this mall for its sheer size, with over 180 stores spread over five levels. Highstreet retailers are well represented, and a large food court obliges when hunger overwhelms your desire to shop. www.alexacentre.com.

Grunerstr. 20. T: 030.269340121.

S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

BIKINI BERLIN Opened in April 2014, BIKINI BERLIN is an extraordinary urban market square that exemplifies the idea of mixed-use space. Amid the mixture of public and commercial endeavors, the striking rooftop the size of a football field offers sensational views of Tiergarten and access to a plethora of restaurants and shopping attractions. www.bikiniberlin.de. Budapester Str. 42-50.

T: 030.55496425. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Designer Outlet Berlin Your favorite designer brands with discounts up to 70 percent, at just 30 minutes from the city center. Also features cafes and restaurants, a children’s play area, free parking and more that 100 international brands. Shuttle bus from center on Fri-Sat. Bring a copy of Where Berlin to the office and get a further 10% off. Mon–Thu 10am–7pm, Fri and Sat to 8pm. www.designeroutletberlin.com.

Alter Spandauer Weg 1. T: 033234.9040.

Take the regional train to Elstal. Off Map

Europa Center This shopping mall on the Ku’damm offers a range of goods from over 70 shops. Check out the ingenious water clock designed by Bernard Gitton

Industrial Charm Jools and Vince each spent the late '80s exploring the urban fringes of Berlin looking for forsaken industrial furniture in ex-GDR sites like old breweries, factory buildings, and abandoned Russian army barracks. When they met, they were pleased to discover their shared passion and realized they had collected more items than their apartment and cellar could hold, so in 2012 they opened J&V Finest Industrial Vintage Furniture in a beautiful Schöneberg neighborhood. Here you can find such treasures as metal storage cabinets and wooden boxes, Rowac stools, neon promotional letters and signs, Midgrad lamps, wall clocks, and even medicine balls and sport rings – with beauty and function restored. Times have changed and the “wild East” may be a thing of the past, but they continue to find charming industrial originals and oddities for their store, furniture not famous for its name but appreciated for its quality craftsmanship and history.

Barbarossastr. 61. T: 0491 736007133. www.jandv.eu.

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SHOPPING

2

3 1

BAGS OF STYLE Claudia Koksch has a different bag for every day of the week.

1. MCM, Kurfürstendamm 186 and Rosenthaler Platz 38. 2. St. Emile, KaDeWe, Tauentzienstr.

21–24. 3. Manila Grace, BIKINI BERLIN, Budapester Str. 38–50 and Rosenthaler Str. 23. 4. BREE, Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12 and Kurfürstendamm 36. 5. CLOSED, BIKINI BERLIN, Budapester Str. 38–50. 6. Liebeskind Berlin, Alexa Center, Grunerstr. 20, Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12, and Neue Schönhauser Str. 8. 7. AGL, KaDeWe, Tauentzienstr. 21–24.

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5

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Visit our BREE Stores in Berlin LP12 Mall of Berlin Leipziger Platz 12-13 10117 Berlin KaDeWe Tauentzienstr. 21-24 10789 Berlin Kurfürstendamm Kurfürstendamm 36 10719 Berlin shop online at bree.com

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SHOPPING

LUXURY B r a n ds AIGNER www.aignermunich.com.

Kurfürstendamm 50. T: 030.88683668.

U Uhlandstraße. B4

BALLY www.bally.com. Kurfürstendamm 52.

T: 030.88707688. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BOGGI MILANO www.boggi.it. Kurfürstendamm 195-196.

T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BOSS www.hugoboss.com. Friedrichstr. 165.

T: 030.20613890. U Französische Straße. E3

BUCHERER www.bucherer.com. Friedrichstr. 45.

T: 030.2041049. U Kochstraße. E4

BULGARI www.bulgari.com. Kurfürstendamm 190-192. T: 030.8857920.

U Uhlandstraße. B4

EMPORIO ARMANI www.armani.com. Friedrichstr. 169-170.

T: 030 20615660. U Stadtmitte. E3

CHOPARD www.chopard.com Kurfürstendamm 54.

T: 030 70096980. U Uhlandstraße. B4

ESCADA www.escada.com. Kurfürstendamm 195.

T: 030.88923815. U Uhlandstraße. B4

MAURICE LACROIX www.mauricelacroix.de. Friedrichstr. 166.

T: 030.33024852.

U Französische Straße. E3

MCM www.mcmworldwide.com. Rosenthaler Str. 38. T: 030.28493793.

S Hackescher Markt. F2

ROLEX www.rolex.com. Kurfürstendamm 184.

T: 030.55669010.

U Adenauerplatz. B4

WEMPE www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184.

T: 030.8826878.

U Adenauerplatz. B4

Luxury mall Quartier 206 on Friedrichstraße.

mainly household and garden goods made with traditional manufacturing methods and materials. www.manufactum.de. See website for other locations. Hardenbergstr. 4. T: 030.24033844.

U Ernst-Reuter-Platz. B3

Fashion Barbour & Barbour Heritage Store Showcasing its collection for women, men, and children, this British label has a trendy, rugged look.

Customers can also enjoy a shopping break with tea and coffee on cozy Chesterfield sofas upstairs. www. barbour.com. Kurfürstendamm 26a.T: 030.88001773.

U Uhlandstraße, U Kurfürstendamm. C4 Alte Schönhauser Str. 39. 030.23456828.

U Weinmeister Straße. F2

Basler Founded in Berlin in 1936 and now sold around the globe, Basler stands for femininity and versatility, aiming to make women of all ages and sizes look and feel good. From everyday style to business casual to something elegant for a night out, you’ll find plenty to add to your wardrobe. Second store at Schloßstr.

28. www.basler-fashion.com. Kurfürstendamm 220.

T: 030.88472949.

U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Beatrice von Tresckow Sumptuous, elegant, somewhat extravagant.

Beatrice Von Tresckow women's clothes are lively and colorful, an eye-catching addition to any wardrobe. www.beatricevontresckow.com, Leibnizstr. 60. T: 030 308318. U Adenauer Platz. C4

ben|weide Modern fashion for the 21st-century man. The Berlin-based label uses only the highest-quality materials and ensures all work is done under fair working conditions. www.benweide.com.

Mulackstr. 1. T: 030 40054048.

U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

www.cinque.de. Rochstr. 1. T: 030.28099999.

U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Cotélac The French just have that certain je ne sais quoi when it comes to style. Laid-back, breezy, comfortable, and nonetheless elegant, the Cotélac collections capture that quintessential French style in clothing and accessories for both women and men. Brand hallmarks are fine fabrics, subtle details and unique prints created with special dye and fabric techniques. Mulackstr. 6.

T: 030 53604074. www.cotelac.fr.

U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

designer depot This boutique in Mitte offers selected designer fashion, shoes, and accessories for men and ladies at up to 50 percent off. There are more than 30 international labels such as Calvin Klein, Iceberg, Roberto Cavalli, and Valentino. www.designerdepot.net. Rochstr. 2. T: 030.28046700.

U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Finn's Mode This tiny store near Savignyplatz stocks a large variety of fashion items with a personality, for women "who know who they are and like to dress well." Brands include Piazza Sempione, Zenggi, Cambio, Le Tricot Perugia, and more, and the selection ranges from dresses and skirts to accessories like shoes and bags. www.finns-mode. de. Bleibtreustraße 47. T: 030.8832202.

U Uhlandstraße B4

Frosch & Königin This fairytale store is filled with beautiful things – fashion from 0039 Italy, jewelry by Nicola Hinrichsen, and Day Birger Mikkelsen home accessories, to name just a few. For the woman who has kissed a lot of frogs but still believes in the big love. www.froschundkoenigin.de. Rochstr. 16.

T: 030 28873734. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Boggi Milano

Ganni Berlin

Italian elegance for men. Specializes in highquality suits that are formal while also remaining comfortable, and also carries a sport casual collection. www.boggi.com. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Founded in Copenhagen, Ganni carries easy-towear pieces for women with an attitude who like to mix things up. Elegant and effortless clothing, lingerie, accessories, and shoes. www.ganni.com.

Alte Schönhauser Str. 6. T: 030.27590966.

U Weinmeisterstr. F2

BOSS

The German luxury fashion brand is Goldsteg Designer Outlet synonymous with elegance and caters to This outlet store carries one-of-a-kind men, women and kids. www.hugoboss. fashion pieces, exciting accessories com. BOSS: Kurfürstendamm 25. and high-quality Italian leather bags T: 030.88624614. U Kurfürstendamm. by a wide range of designers.

C4; BOSS: Friedrichstr. 165. T: www.goldsteg.de. Carmerstr. 8.

The quiet Suarezstraße 030.20613890. U Französische Straße.

T: 030 51307933. in Charlottenburg E3; HUGO: Rosenthaler Str. 49.

S Savignyplatz. B4 is the place to go for T: 030.28884550. antiques.

Marc Cain U Weinmeisterstraße. F2; BOSS: Mall of A worldwide premium brand for women’s Berlin. U Mohrenstraße. E3 fashion with its own production facility

By Anne in Germany. Marc Cain effortlessly combines

By Anne offers designer fashion from sought-after aesthetics and innovation in design and materials, European labels such as cool Danish brand NÜ, making a declaration of love to women.

Beate Heymann Street Couture, playful Spanish www.marc-cain.com. Friedrichstr. 61. label Uno Piu Uno, and bags from By Lou Lou, See website for more locations. together with other accessories to complement T: 030.20077219. U Stadtmitte. E3 your new outfit. Unique art pieces are also on sale to MaxMara help you express your individuality in the home or One of the oldest and most prestigious Italian garden. www.byanne.de. Rosenthaler Str. 31. fashion houses, known for its quality craftsmanship T: 030.28879436. U Weinmeisterstr. F2 and ready-to-wear clothing. www.maxmara.com.

Cinque Friedrichstr. 184, T: 030.20074945. U Stadtmitte.

Exquisite elegance for men and women defines E3; Kurfürstendamm 178. this label, whose products are inspired by the T: 030.8852545.

Italian lifestyle and Mediterranean views.

U Adenauerplatz. B4

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Meyer & Nehls This intimate boutique is geared towards selfconfident, independent women who appreciate good fashion advice and prefer to steer clear of the “off-the-shelf” look. Owners Lars and Frank Nehls have filled their store with beautiful clothes for that special occasions, and also business attire and casual outfits. www.meyerundnehls.de.

Bleibtreustr. 13. T: 030 88678578.

S Savignyplatz. B4

Onepiece A popular Norwegian brand, best known for its jumpsuits, beloved by celebrities. Comfortable pants, hoodies, shirts, and dresses complete the offering. www.onepiece.com. Litfaßplatz 1.

T: 030.27580644. S Hackescher Markt. F3

Patrick Hellmann Among the most successful luxury brands in the fashion world, Patrick Hellmann stands for timelessness, elegant designs, quality materials, and extravagant details. There are also clothes

by Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior, and Dolce & Gabbana. www.patrick-hellmann.com.

Kurfürstendamm 190–192. T: 030.88487711.

U Adenauerplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

Planet Berlin Described as "luxury with a touch of rock and roll," the store will have you decked out for your next glamorous night of clubbing. They stock classic labels such as Converse and Dr. Martens, as well as new labels like Japan Rags, whose jeans for both men and women have already achieved cult status. www.planetwear.de. Schlüterstr. 35. T: 030 8852717.

S Savignyplatz. B4

Rebecca Store With a unique boudoir atmosphere, this concept store is a harmonious medley of European and American designers, including Yigal Azrouel, Vera Wang, and Gas Bijoux. All items are personally selected by owner Rebecca Zehden on her many trips abroad. www.rebecca-berlin.de.

Alte Schönhauser Str. 41. T: 030 34620780.

U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Talbot Runhof Designers Johnny Talbot and Adrian Runhof launched their label in Munich but have since gone global, branching out from glamorous evening gowns into everyday outfits and accessories. Discover the comprehensive range of dresses, separates, and knitwear, plus shoes and accessories in their Charlottenburg boutique. A brand hallmark is the complex, precise cuts and unusual seam placement used to create feminine, flattering silhouettes. Schlüterstr. 50.

T: 030 23363170. www.talbotrunhof.com.

U Uhlandstraße, S Savignyplatz. B4

NUMBER ONE IN SHOPPING, LEISURE & ENTERTAINMENT IN BERLIN

Client - McAG Type Area - n/a Initials - GR Outlet - berlin Bleed - 3mm Scale - 100 Ad Type - Press Date - 24–01–2017 Effective DPI - >300 File Name Publication - Where Berlin Ad - GL1293_0001_SS17_Press_Where Berlin Ad_118x124mm_AW X A AT ALE X AN D E R PL ATZ M O - SA 1 0 a m - 9p m -118x124mm SizeALE O PEN O N SU N DAYS: FOO D COU RT AN D LEISU R E AR E A

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Trüffelschwein The Trüffelschwein man is never overdressed – he simply looks good, with a collection of small niche brands from London, Paris, and New York. www. trueffelschweinberlin.com. Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 21. T: 030.70221225. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Twin-Set Italian designer Simona Barbieri began her career in the 1990s focusing her activity on knitwear and female clothing, but soon after expanded her collection to add bags, lingerie, beachwear, and shoes. Today, Twin-Set is known internationally for its style, which is both elegant and feminine.

Mall of Berlin. T: 030.22152081. U Mohrenstraße. E3

www.alexacentre.com |

become a fan of ALEXA

Make it yours.

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SHOPPING UNIQLO Originally a chain of roadside stores in suburban Japan, this brand quickly became an Asian sensation and has now expanded to trendy urban hubs around the globe. Their Berlin flagship store has three floors of quality basics and fashion for women, men, and children. www.uniqlo.com.

Tauentzienstr. 7. T: 030 29028260.

U Wittenbergplatz. C4; Leipziger Platz 16.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. E3; Rosenthaler Str. 42; S Hackescher Markt. F3

Wormland This men’s boutique carries the best German and international brands, catering to a demanding man and offering a variety of styles, from classy to casual, from business to sporty. Brands include Calvin Klein, Black Kaviar, Lee Jeans, and Hugo Boss. www.wormland.de. Mall of Berlin. Direct entrance from Voßstraße.T: 030.229088200.

U Mohrenstraße. E3

Shoes & Accessories AIGNER The Munich label is one of Germany’s most important leather accessory brands, combining tradition and innovation with luxury classics.

Choose between handbags, belts, and luxury travel luggage, as well as gift items such as corkscrews, keyrings and backgammon boxes. www.aignermunich.com. Kurfürstendamm 50.

T: 030.88683638. U Uhlandstraße. B4

bagatt Milano Bagatt epitomizes the appreciation for beauty for which Italy is known. With its core philosophy of fine Italian craftsmanship, bagatt Milano applies the highest quality standards to its collection of shoes, handbags and accessories. Browse the shelves for contemporary, comfortable looks for

everyday wear or elegant heels.

Email: bagattberlino@gmail.com.

Bikini Berlin: Budapester Str. 38–50.

T: 030 25759777. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

modern designs, including their bestseller 59fifty, popular with the skater and hip hop crowd. www. neweracap.com. An der Spandauer Brücke 7.

T: 030.27890578. S Hackescher Markt. F2

Boots & Shoes

Volker Lang

With their air-cushioned sole, lace-up style, and yellow stitching, the popular Doc Martens boots launched in the UK in 1960 wasc based on a prototype by German army doctor Klaus Märtens.

Check out many designs and colors of the famous boots at Boots & Shoes, from the classic 1460 model, to shiny blue, or floral print. Ballerinas, booties, clothing, and accessories round off the offering. www.drmartens.com.

Dircksenstr. 49. T: 0800.2070700.

S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Michael Kors

The success story of Volker Lang started in 1983 in Hamburg, when he designed his first handbag. A functional, pure look with playful details define his style, resulting in timeless purses, handbags, and other accessories loved by their owners for years and beyond the dictates of fashion. Mulackstr. 37.

T: 030.284937004. www.volker-lang-accessoires.de.

U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

The Wednesday and

Jewelry & Watches

The New York-based designer Saturday market on Bodo Dilg Goldschmiede Michael Kors is known for his Winterfeldtplatz is the A master in the jewelry field, ready-to-wear fashion and luxury largest outdoor food Bodo Dilg creates unique pieces accessories – bags, watches, market in Berlin. of contemporary jewelry using gold jewelry, shoes, and other awardand precious stones against a backdrop winning designs. www.michaelkors.com. of historical stucco and cement tiles.

Kurfürstendamm 219. T: 030.81825760. U Uhlandstr.

An essential stop for soon to wed partners.

C4; Rosenthaler Str. 37. T: 030.24088690. F2 www.bodo-dilg.de. Grolmanstr. 30/31.

T: 030 88675355. U Uhlandstraße. B4 MCM Mode Creation Munich crafts luxury leather goods, handbags, apparel, footwear, and accessories. www.mcmworldwide.com.

Quartier 206, Friedrichstr. 71. T: 030.20946500.

U Französische Straße. E3; Kurfürstendamm 186.

T: 030.8811104. U Uhlandstraße. B4; Rosenthaler Str. 38. T: 030.28493793. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Chopard

New Era Flagship Store

Lalic Schmuck

Looking for a new cap? This is the largest and fastest growing headwear producer in the world. There are more than 1000 styles over two floors, ranging from the classic baseball cap to

The Bold & The Beautiful Quite often you’ll see Viola Wiesinger, fashion designer and founder of Vio Berlin, sitting outside her store on popular Winterfeldtplatz, in full concentration as she handstitches her latest creation. Her style is geometric and sophisticated, with a bit of a retro feel, and the full colors she chooses vaguely recall a painting by Mondrian. If you are looking for a new business dress or outfit for a special occasion, this store is sure to leave you fielding non-stop compliments.

Winterfeldtstr. 46. T: 030 21964718. www.vio-berlin.de

Jewelry and watches loved by celebrities. This luxury jewelry brand combines Swiss perfection with timeless style for the elite. www.chopard.com.

Kurfürstendamm. 186/187. T: 030.70096980.

U Adenauer Platz. B4 KaDeWe, Tauentzienstr. 21-24.

T: 030.206039830. U Wittenbergplatz. C4 This family-run jewelry store near Savignyplatz prides itself on having been the first jewelry gallery in Germany. All pieces are carefully selected by owner and expert Maren Meyee-Ringe, who only picks the best handmade items from more than 30 famous goldsmiths and designers. www.lalic-schmuckgalerie.de. Bleibtreustr. 47.

T: 030.8819762. E3

ROLEX Boutique One of the most famous brands in luxury, Rolex has been making wristwatches since 1905. First created in England, the company soon moved to Switzerland, and its perfect timepieces are recognized worldwide as the ultimate symbol of elegance and refinement. www.rolex.de. www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184.

T: 030.55669010. U Uhlandstraße. E2

Wempe One of the oldest family businesses in Germany is renowned for its passion for fine jewelry and watches, and in particular for its precision timepieces and attention to detail. www.wempe. de. Kurfürstendamm 215. See website for more locations. T: 030.8826878. U Uhlandstraße.

C4; Friedrichstr. 82. T: 030.20399920.

U Französische Straße. E3

Home Décor Home on Earth Located in the historical Hackesche Höfe, this store offers home décor items made from natural materials combined with Scandinavian design. Founded by a German-Danish pair in Barcelona, this is the first store to hit Germany. www.homeonearth.com. Hackesche Höfe/Hof V, Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. T: 030 2834354.

S Hackescher Markt F2

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Talbot Runhof Flagship Boutique Schlüterstr. 50.

Promobo Many of the fun offbeat, eye-catching design objects, such as jewelry, handbags, and gifts are made by hand in small workshops around Germany, using plenty of recycled materials like bike inner tubes and cork. www.promobo.de.

Rosenthalerstr. 40–41, Hackesche Höfe 3 & 5.

S Hackescher Markt. F2

Pylones These household products are created to add a spark to our daily lives, filling it with color and fun.

The designers choose zoomorphic themes. www.pylones.com. Kurfürstendamm 225 (check website for other store locations). T: 030.92362488.

U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Yves Delorme Add a Parisian touch to your home with a brandnew set of linens by Yves Delorme, specializing in fine textiles since 1845. The collection includes bed and bath lines as well as exquisite tableware and baby items for the everyday and special occasion alike. www.yvesdelormeparis.com.

Kurfürstendamm 51.

T: 030.88724777. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Manufactum Household and garden goods made with traditional manufacturing methods and materials. www.manufactum.de. See website for other locations. Hardenbergstr. 4. T: 030.24033844.

U Ernst-Reuter-Platz. B3

BEAUTY & WELLNESS Babor Specializing in beauty driven by science, Babor creates skincare solutions for every woman’s unique needs. Top-sellers at the flagship store include vitamin-rich skin serums and deluxe foundations with

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a lifting effect. www.babor.de. Französische Str. 48.

T: 030. 20622222. U Französische Straße. E3

Hackesche Höfe IV. T: 030 60269429. S Hackescher Markt. E3

Catherine Nail Salon

Parfumsalon

The popular Catherine nailcare brand now has a nail salon here in Berlin. Stop by or make an appointment for some grooming time between shopping and sightseeing. www.catherine-berlin.de. Knesebeck Str. 35. T: 030. 55214475. U Uhlandstraße. E3

An exclusive perfume boutique that has been offering fragrances for more than five decades. The shop's selection include rarities and special aromas, all hand-picked by owner and perfume expert Mario Worms. www.parfumsalon.de.

Uhlandstr. 173-174. T: 030.8827306. E3

Frau Tonis Parfum The perfume boutique offers scents inspired by the city, like Pure Violet, originally composed for Marlene Dietrich. Take a scent test to find the fragrances that suit you best or ask customize your own bottle. www.frau-tonis-parfum.com.

Zimmerstr. 13. T: 030.20215310. U Kochstraße. E4

Harry Lehmann The grandson of this perfume shop’s founder continues an 80-year-long family tradition, mixing perfume from a spectrum of 50 scents. www.parfum-individual.de. Kantstr. 106.

T: 030.3243582. U Wilmersdorfer Straße, S Charlottenburg. C4

Krigler From 1905, Krigler’s original perfume shop on Unter den Linden witnessed the flourishing of Berlin’s legendary music scene and the fragrances were appreciated by celebrities such as John F. Kennedy, Audrey Hepburn, and Grace Kelly. www.krigler.eu. Adlon Hotel. Unter den Linden 77.

T: 030 80494144. S Brandenburger Tor. E3

Mühle Traditional shaving culture for the modern gentleman. MÜHLE is a classic German brand with everything needed for the perfect wet shave, like beautiful razors with chrome or tortoiseshell handles and soap brushes with soft badger bristles. www.muehle-shaving.com. Rosenthaler Str. 40–41,

FOOD & Gourmet Fassbender & Rausch Berlin’s undisputed temple of confections features the world's longest chocolate counter and eyepopping sculptures, such as a model Reichstag made from 300kg (660lb) of dark chocolate. www.fassbender-rausch.de. Charlottenstr. 60.

T: 030.20458443. U Stadtmitte. E3

Ritter Sport Bunte Schokowelt The company store teaches about the process of chocolate production through an interactive exhibit, while in the shop you can mix and match chocolate and fillings for that perfect and personalized creation. www.ritter-sport.de.

Französische Str. 24 T: 030.20095080.

U Französische Straße. E3

Electronics Sennheiser This German brand stands for innovation in the world of audio electronics, from microphones and speakers to headsets and more. Sennheiser’s cutting-edge wireless headphones in particular are prized by pro musicians, DJs, music fans, and gamers alike. Because hearing is believing, test out all the latest models at the Charlottenburg store. www. sennheiser.com. Tauentzienstr. 17.

T: 030.23630162. U Wittenbergplatz. C4 www.wheretraveler.com 25

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wonderful to wander bikini berlin CONTEMPORARY FASHION, FABULOUS FOOD AND GREAT DESIGN American Vintage | Artek | Bensimon | Carhartt | Closed | GANT | Kusmi Tea Labo.Art | Lakrids by Johan Bülow | Mammut | Mykita | Premiata | Samsøe & Samsøe Scotch & Soda | Teufel / Raumfeld | The North Face | Vans ... and many more exceptional stores and pop up boxes.

Bikini Berlin, Budapester Straße 42– 50, 10787 Berlin Zoologischer Garten

www.bikiniberlin.de

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More than a century of precision craftsmanship comes to the Ku'damm in the form of Germany's first Rolex Boutique.

The flagship store offers a distinctive experience, including an exclusive setting and world-class service.

This exclusive perfume boutique has been offering extraordinary fragrances since the 1960s. Mario Worms is an expert in perfume counseling, offering advice on the perfect scent for every client, and the shop's selection includes rare bottles and unusual aromas.

Uhlandstraße 173-174. T: 030 8827306 www.parfumsalon.de

Designers Johnny Talbot and Adrian Runhof launched their label in Munich but have since gone global, branching out from glamorous evening gowns into everyday outfits from dresses, separates, and knitwear to shoes and accessories. Complex, precise cuts create feminine, flattering silhouettes.

Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030 55669010 rolexboutique.berlin@wempe.de

Schlüterstr. 50. T: 030 23363170 www.talbotrunhof.com

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BELLE REBELLE

The Charlottenburg boutique offers fragrance lovers a break from the everyday, with scents you won't find in your neighborhood department store. Staff are renowned for their expertise, so come prepared to ask your toughest beauty questions. The cosmetics and personal-care products for men and women are as singular as the perfume selection.

Bleibtreustraße 42. T: 030 679672050 www.bellerebelle.de shop stop

CATHERINE NAIL SALON Make a good first impression with beautifully manicured hands. This hotspot for hand and nail cosmetics hinges upon expert beauticians and top-quality products from the Catherine Nail Collection. Delivering to beauty salons worldwide, the brand is renowned in nail design and presents their selection now in their own studio just off Berlin’s luxury shopping strip, the Ku’damm.

Knesebeckstr. 35-37.

T: 030 55214475 www.catherine-berlin.de

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NIEBUHRSTR. Meyer & Nehls

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Spoil yourself at this intimate boutique. Geared towards self-confident, independent women, Meyer & Nehls stocks unique pieces for that special occasion, as well as business and casual attire. If you are looking for fashion advice, owners and style experts Lars and Frank Nehls are there to help.

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Set yourself apart from the crowd with fashion and accessories from Planet Berlin, described as "luxury with a touch of rock and roll." They stock classic labels such as Converse and Dr Marten's, as well as new labels like le temps des cerises, whose male and female jeans have already achieved cult status. Get ready for your next glamorous night of clubbing.

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BODO DILG GOLDSCHMIEDE

A master in his field, Bodo Dilg creates unique pieces of contemporary jewelry using gold and precious stones against a backdrop of stucco and cement tiles.

A stop for soon-to-wed partners, nestled between Savignyplatz and the luxury-shopping strip Ku'damm.

Watch the jeweler as he creates masterpieces right in the store, or browse the showroom, designed to make customers relaxed and comfortable.

Grolmanstr. 30/31.

T: 030 88675355 www.bodo-dilg.de

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This perfume manufactory has been described as Berlin’s most beautiful perfumery. Try classics such as Linde Berlin, or Marlene Dietrich’s favorite perfume, Pure Violet. Join other fragrance aficionados from all over the world, and create your own, private perfume.

Zimmerstr. 13 (Checkpoint Charlie).

T: 030 20215310 www.frau-tonis-parfum.com

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Manufacturing clothing purely from organically grown natural fibers, founding twin sisters Anja and Sandra apply the highest standards of innovation and sustainability when creating their designs.

The focus is on timeless beauty and the art of Japanese cutting, combining flattering silhouettes with precise lines.

Friedrichstr. 71. T: 030 24085534 www.umasan-berlin.com

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Arkaden Shops open from Mon-Sat, 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. POTSDAMERPLATZ.DE

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OAKLEY

DESIGNER DEPOT

Established in 1975 and headquartered in Southern California, Oakley is one of the leading sports brands in the world. Known for its sporty line of sunglasses, goggles, and prescription eyewear, Oakley provides insuperable lens technologies featuring high-definition optics, polarized lenses, UV protection, PRIZM technology and a trademarked switch-lock hinge mechanism. All lenses can be customized according to taste and purpose and mounted on Oakley's extremely light frames, while branded clothing and accessories round off their offering.

Since 2002, this fashion outlet boutique has been offering high class fashion and accessories from major international labels at up to 50% off the original price. Check out their selection, which ranges from unique pieces to dressy garments. Tax Free available.

Hackescher Markt, Rosenthaler Str. 34.

T: 030 23457770 www.oakley.com U Weinmeisterstr. F2; Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12. U Mohrenstraße.

Rochstrasse 2. T: 030 28046700 www.facebook.com/ddmitte www.designer-depot.net

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Looking for a new cap? The world's leading headwear brands is now the official headwear of the NBA. Check out the latest New Era NBA collection at the New Era store in Berlin.

An der Spandauer Brücke 7.

T: 030 27890578 de.neweracap.eu shop stop

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CAFÉ GRÜN-OHR

REBECCA STORE

ATELIER EINHUNDERT

It's heaven for the sweet-toothed. The shop and café by Katjes stocks the brand's line of vegetarian-friendly, gelatin-free gummy candy and a rainbow of vegan cupcakes, coffee, and fresh-squeezed juices. And with their Magic Candy Factory, a 3D food printer, customers can easily create their own vegan fruit gum.

With a unique boudoir atmosphere, this concept store is a harmonious medley of European and American designers, including Alexander Wang, Vera Wang, Tibi and Alice+Olivia, and all items are personally selected by owner Rebecca Zehden on her many trips abroad.

Here you can try on Berlin fashion label Sigorzia and watch designer Silke Gorzialka hard at work. From classic shirts for the office to elegant dresses for a special event, all pieces are handmade in small batches in her onsite atelier.

Rosenthaler Str. 32. T: 030 97894702 www.katjes.de

Alte Schönhauser Str. 41.

T: 030 34620780 www.rebecca-berlin.de

Torstr. 100. Open Tue-Fri 12pm-7pm, Sat 1pm-6pm. www.einhundert-berlin.de

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SIGHTSEEING | THE GUIDE

The tiled façade of a Hackesche Höfe courtyard.

On The Art Nouveau Trail Think of Art Nouveau and you might picture organic curves of flora and fauna, fusing the strong lines of glass and iron.

Emerging from the expanding range of European design in the late 19th century, Art Nouveau, known as Jugendstil in Germany and Austria, is characterized by flowing lines and ornate tiling, with elements harking back to natural forms.

Not only did Art Nouveau design find its way into furniture and décor, but also into graphic design and architecture. And despite the destruction brought on by the two World Wars, Berlin still offers a few notable examples of this attractive floral style.

One distinctive feature of many Jugendstil façades in Berlin are artfully arranged, colorful ceramic tiles. Conveying a sense of movement and liveliness, this characteristic blurs the distinction between ornament and function. A notable example can be found in the Hackesche Höfe inner courtyards. Designed in 1906 by August Endell, the eight

interconnected courtyards are home to façades decorated with polychrome glazed bricks. The first courtyard in particular has bold

blue tiling that contrasts with the white and gold accents in patterns evocative of motion.

Elsewhere in Mitte, the Tietz Brothers’ office building at Klosterstr. 64 is a fine example of Jugendstil design. Built between 1904–1906 as the administrative building for the brothers’ department store, the façade features columns broken up by ornate plant-filled reliefs. The inner courtyards have two-toned wall exteriors, with the green tiles in sharp contrast to the white in an undulating arrangement.

There are many other examples of this style around town, but the apartment complex at Thomassiusstr. 5 (Moabit, U Turmstraße) is one of the most beautiful: composed of shallow reliefs of flora coupled with geometric shapes, the building also features oxidized copper segments outlining the horizontal lines, contrasting sharply with the light-colored exterior, while a pediment bearing an engraved copper face sits atop the façade, crowning the Jugendstil gem.

ALL PHOTOS: © ISTOCK.

Serene Tseng wanders through Berlin’s inner courtyards, discovering the city's Art Nouveau gems.

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Major Sights The “Alex” TV Tower The 368m- (1027ft)-high TV tower of Alexanderplatz can be seen from almost any point in the city and has been iconic of Berlin ever since it was built by the GDR in 1969. The giant steel-clad sphere atop houses a revolving restaurant and café as well as a viewing platform. The elevator ride lasts 40 seconds. Arrive early to avoid lines.

Daily 9am–midnight (Nov–Feb from 10am). €13/8.50. www.tv-turm.de. Panoramastr. 1a.

T: 030.24757537. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Berliner Dom The city’s neo-Renaissance cathedral was begun in the late 1700s, finished in 1905, and renovated in simplified form after WWII damage. Walk up 267 steps for glorious views of the city from the dome, or stay on the ground floor to gaze at elaborate sarcophagi containing the royal remains of Hohenzollern family members. Thanks to the church’s perfect acoustics and a 7200-pipe organ, the Dom is also an important concert venue.

Mon–Sat 9am–8pm, Sun 9am–8pm (winter until 7pm). €7/5. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten.

T: 030.20269119. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Brandenburg Gate MUST SEE The definitive Berlin icon, Carl Gotthard Langhans’ Neoclassical triumphal arch has witnessed the city’s best and worst moments, from the military parades of the Third Reich to the Wall being raised and torn down. Formerly behind GDR borders, today the gate acts mainly as the backdrop for festivals, New Year’s Eve parties, and tourist snapshots. U Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3

and the area still retains its ancient character, although most of the buildings in the narrow medieval alleys are replicas of destroyed originals that dated back to the 1200s. The late-Gothic Nikolaikirche, Berlin’s oldest surviving building, is now a museum. Other points of interest include the Ephraim Palais Museum and the Biedermeierstyle Knoblauchhaus, a 19th-century middleclass townhouse that escaped WWII damage.

Knoblauch Haus: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. www.knoblauchhaus.de. Poststr. 23.

T: 030.240020171. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Potsdamer Platz Before the war, Potsdamer Platz was the city’s beating heart, with department stores, banks, internationally known theaters, dance halls, and cafés. WWII bombs obliterated 80 percent of the square, which was left in limbo for a few years and then enclosed in a no-man’s-land between the Wall and barbed wire fences. The square came back to life in the 1990s as a modern reinterpretation of its original self. Divided in three slices, it includes the Sony building with its central plaza; Daimler City, home to a large shopping mall; and the Manhattan-style Beisheim Center building. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Reichstag and Foster’s Glass Cupola MUST SEE In the last 100 years, the massive neo-Renaissance building, now the seat of German Parliament, has been bombed, set on fire, wrapped by artist Christo, and renovated by Lord Norman Foster. Climb the glass cupola for a 360-degree view of the city, then gaze down at parliament in session.

The plenary hall can be visited only on guided tours.

Cupola: Daily 8am–midnight by appointment only.

Free. Register on website; it is recommended to do so at least three days prior to your visit. Audio tours available. www.bundestag.de. Platz der Republik 1.

T: 030.22732152. U Bundestag. D3/E3

Historic Sites Asisi’s Wall Panorama Yadegar Asisi created a panorama of divided Berlin, presenting everyday life against the backdrop of the Wall on an imaginary day in the 1980s. The artist's aim was to show how the population came to terms with the situation, and the result gives onlookers a glimpse of East German life. Daily 10am–6pm. €10/4. www.asisi.de. Friedrichstr. 205.

T: 0341.3555340. U Kochstraße. E3/E4

Berlin Wall Documentation Center MUST SEE Walk along one of the few surviving stretches of the Berlin Wall in an area of the city where its impact was particularly dramatic, then delve into its storied history at the documentation center. Documents and original radio broadcasts from both East and West chronicle one of Germany’s saddest historical periods. Open-air exhibition: 8am-10pm daily; documentation center: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. Free. www.berliner-mauergedenkstaette.de. Bernauer Str. 111.

U Bernauer Straße. E2

Checkpoint Charlie During the Cold War, Checkpoint Charlie was the main gateway between East and West. Shortly after the Wall went up, US and Soviet tanks faced each other on this spot. Today, the crossing point acts primarily as a backdrop for tourist photographs. U Kochstraße, U Stadtmitte. E3/E4

Charlottenburg Palace The summer home of Sophie Charlotte, wife of King Friedrich I of Prussia, reflects the grandeur of the Hohenzollern family. Begun in 1695, the luxury Baroque complex consists of a main building with a central cupola and two side wings, added in later years, that enclose a courtyard. The picturesque park surrounding the castle includes a formal French-style garden, English garden with pond and statues, belvedere, and mausoleum. The castle hosts temporary art and history exhibitions.

Tue–Sun 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm). €12/8. www.spsg.de. Spandauer Damm 20-24.

T: 030.9694200. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Hackesche Höfe

courtesy of Wilhelm forster sternwarte and zeiss planetarium

all photos: © istock.

FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT wheretraveler.com

An intricate series of interconnected courtyards provides an example of early-19th-century German Secessionist style. The first courtyard is entirely decorated with glazed blue-and-white tiles in geometric designs, while the apartment buildings and narrow, maze-like alleys lined with cafés, shops, and theaters give the Höfe an atmosphere both familiar and fascinating.

Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. S Hackescher Markt. E2/F2

Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche The church’s bombed-out bell tower has been an anti-war memorial and symbol of West Berlin ever since its ruins were restored to their present state in 1957. The old church now hosts an exhibition of before-and-after photos documenting its and Ku'damm's former splendor. Inside, look up to admire what remains of the old mosaic. Daily 9am–7pm. www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de.

Breitscheidplatz. T: 030.2185023. U Zoologischer Garten, U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Nikolaiviertel and Knoblauchhaus The Nikolaiviertel is where Berlin was born,

Star Light, Star Bright As far as the current scientific research shows, Earth is the only planet home to civiliziation.

But is that really all there is to the universe? The Wilhelm Foerster Observatory and Zeiss Planetarium lets astronomers of all ages and walks of life ponder these questions, gazing up at the night sky and looking through the venerable 100-year-old refracting telescope or the high-tech, computer-controlled Zeiss reflecting telescope. Aside from stargazing, the observatory and planetarium specialize in astronomy education with regular programs and group viewings. Even on cloudy nights, curiosity for the celestial is fostered with the use of multimedia and technology to simulate the movements and phenomena in the sky and space.

Munsterdamm 90. T: 030.7900930. www.planetarium-berlin.de. www.wheretraveler.com 35

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SIGHTSEEING world. The aquarium, one of the largest in Europe, features large tanks with piranhas, sharks, and alligators. Daily 9am–6:30pm. Zoo or aquarium: €14.50/7.50, under-4s free. Combined ZooAquarium ticket: €20/10. www.aquarium-berlin.de, www.zoo-berlin.de Hardenbergplatz 8.

T: 030.254010. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Currywurst Museum Learn about Berlin’s most famous street food at this small but entertaining museum. Delve into Currywurst history, discover the secrets of its yellow sauce in the "spice chamber," and watch movies starring the delicious sausage. Daily 10am–8pm. €11/7, under-6s free. www.currywurstmuseum.de.

Schützenstr. 70. T: 030.88718647.

U Kochstraße. E4

Madame Tussauds

All Hands On Deck Is it a bird? Or is it a plane? Yes, it’s a plane! The aircraft perched atop the Deutsches Technikmuseum Berlin (p. 39) is a Rosinenbomber, one of the planes used to bring food to West Berliners during the 1948 Blockade. In addition to this and other aircrafts, the museum, housed in a former railway and shipping hub, features various forms of technological innovation, exploring themes such as the development of mass transportation with steam engines, diesel locomotives, and electric trains, as well as naval transportation, explained through models of ships. The aviation exhibition recounts two centuries of German aviation history, from early hot air balloon flights, to the military’s use of aircraft in the world wars, to contemporary commercial piloting.

The exhibitions are designed to be interactive and exploratory, so hop on board!

East Side Gallery

Topographie des Terrors

While West Berliners loved to express their creativity by drawing graffiti and painting on the Wall, East Berliners were never allowed to use the dividing structure as a canvas. To make up for all the artless years, artists from 21 countries were called upon in 1990 to decorate one mile of the Wall's eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery. Mühlenstraße.

S+U Warschauer Straße, S Ostbahnhof. G4

MUST SEE On the site of the former headquarters of the SS and the Third Reich’s most important offices, this permanent exhibition recounts the tragic history of Nazi forced labor, focusing on the central institutions of the SS and Third Reich police and the crimes they committed throughout Europe. A segment of the Wall runs along the grounds. Daily 10am–8pm.

Free. www.topographie.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 8.

T: 030.2545090. U Kochstraße. E4

MUST SEE Berlin’s tribute to the victims of the Holocaust is as big as a soccer field and consists of 2711 tombstone-like slabs of equal size and varying heights, placed on uneven ground to convey a sense of claustrophobia and disorientation. The underground information center provides a timeline of Jewish persecution. Accessible 24 hours a day. Free. www.holocaust-mahnmal.de.

Cora-Berliner Straße. T: 030.2639430.

U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Stasi Prison MUST SEE Between 1945 and 1989, more than 20,000 people suspected of opposing the East German political system were arrested by the Stasi (secret police) and brought to this custody building. In its first and darkest years, the prison’s cellars, known as “the submarine,” were used to inflict psychological torture on the inmates, while the relatively more humane cells are on the upper floors, next to a seemingly never-ending corridor lined with interrogation rooms. Tours in English on Wed, Sat, and Sun at 2:30pm in winter, daily at 11:30am and 2:30pm in summer. €6/3. en. stiftung-hsh.de. Genslerstr. 66. T: 030.98608230.

S Landsberger Allee, then Tram M5 to Freienwalder Str., then 10-minute walk. Off Map

Sea Life & AquaDom Dazzling clownfish, scary sharks, crawling spider crabs, and quirky seahorses are just some of the 5000 creatures inhabiting this small but interesting aquarium. Discover the ethereal dance of the jellyfish and observe the eagle rays on your way to the Aquadom, a 16m-tall cylindrical tropical fish tank that can be viewed from a slow elevator. Daily 10am–7pm. €17.95/14.50 (discounts when booking online). Under-3s free. Combined Berlin Dungeon, LEGOLAND, and Madame Tussauds tickets available. www.visitsealife.com.

Spandauer Str. 3. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Tours & GUIDED Walks Berliner Unterwelten (Underground Tours)

Since 1997, the Berlin Underworlds Association has been offering regular tours of underground structures and subterranean complexes that Berlin Dungeon are otherwise inaccessible. Cold Four Germans set a Guinness Much like the London Dungeon, World Record in November War nuclear shelters, Hitler’s the Berlin Dungeon provides 2014 by traveling to all 173 underground fortress, escape a terrifying interactive journey U-Bahn stations in Berlin in routes to the West, and WWII through the city's dark past via 7 hours, 33 minutes bunkers are just some of the a sometimes-spooky, actor-led and 15 seconds. adventures on offer. From €10. experience. Visitors are taken www.berliner-unterwelten.de. through attractions such as the Brunnenstr. 105. T: 030.49910517. old library of Berlin, a plague-infected street, a torture chamber, a secret court, and CooLTourings Segway Tours more. Not recommended for young children.

Covering Berlin’s top 20 sightseeing highlights, Daily 10am–6pm (winter weekends until 5pm).

CooLTourings takes individual visitors or large €20.50/12.30(discount when booking online). groups on an exciting ride aboard a Segway, Under-14s must be accompanied by adult. a fun and fast way to explore the city.

Combined LEGOLAND, Madame Tussauds, and www.seg-berlin-ways.de.

Sea Life tickets available. www.thedungeons.com.

T: 030.26321381.

Spandauer Str. 2.

Trabi World S+U Hackescher Markt. F3 For a quintessential Berlin tour experience, hop inside real Trabants, the iconic cars of the former Berlin Zoo and Aquarium MUST SEE One of the city’s main attractions and GDR. Visitors drive their personal Trabis, while, via the car’s radio, the group leader provides the oldest zoo in Germany includes pavilions that historical and quirky facts. Three different tours provide ample indoor space, making the venue available, lasting one or two hours. €30-50. www. suitable for rainy days. The zoo boasts the largest number of species and total animal residents in the trabi-world.de. Zimmerstr. 97. T: 030.30201030.

Kids & Families

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Holocaust Memorial

Have your picture taken with Angela Merkel, Albert Einstein, One Direction, or a host of other famous names in entertainment and politics. And, yes, there's even a wax Adolf Hitler, depicted as a little man standing in despair in his bunker during his final days. Daily 10am–7pm (Aug until 8pm). €23.50/18.50, discounts if you book online.

Combined Berlin Dungeon, LEGOLAND, and Sea Life tickets available. www.madametussauds.com.

Unter den Linden 74. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES | THE GUIDE

Clockwise from top left: The outdoor exhibition at the Topography of Terror; a Stasi office at the DDR Museum; visitors check out a Trabant car at the DDR Museum; school books. Inset, below: children try out the retro phones at the DDR museum.

A Tumultuous History An endless corridor lined with rooms once used for Stasi interrogations, an original aircraft from the 1948 Berlin Blockade, bunkers from the Nazi era: Anyone keen on history should add these sites to their Berlin to-do list.

On the site where the headquarters of Nazi Germany's repressive Gestapo and SS troops once stood, a modern building now houses the Topography of Terror (p. 36), an outdoor and indoor documentation center giving visitors a 360-degree view of the different tools of Nazi repression, the thinking behind the Nazi terror campaigns, and Nazi propaganda. The exhibition also explains forced labor and describes concentration camps, in an attempt to bring viewers to understand the inexplicable reasoning behind National Socialism.

The years that followed the end of the war were marked by major destruction and only

partial reconstruction, and by the division of the city and later erection of the Berlin Wall.

The DDR Museum (p. 39) houses a rather commercial but informative exhibition of what daily life in East Germany used to be like, while the Tränenpalast border crossing adjacent to the Friedrichstraße S-Bahn station tells stories of long, tearful goodbyes between separated family members living on the two sides of the city.

The terror regime inflicted upon East Germans is well represented at the Stasi Museum (p. 40), located inside the former Ministry of Security of the GDR, which shows how a large slice of the population was constantly being bugged, spied, and

interrogated, hoping to catch dissidents and political opponents. When caught, these were then imprisoned in places like the Hohenschönhausen (www. stiftung-hsh.de) jail, where you can now listen to former inmates tell stories about their experiences of physical and psychological torture.

To get a taste of what the Cold War was like for West Berliners, book a tour with Berliner Unterwelten (p. 36), taking you underground to Cold War bunkers created to protect the population in the event of an attack. Or visit the Allied Museum in Zehlendorf (www. alliiertenmuseum.de) to get a glimpse of the interaction of West Berliners with the US, UK, and French military forces stationed in the city from 1948 to 2004.

Topographie des terrors: © istock; all other images: courtesy of DDR MUSEUM.

Spend a few days in Berlin, and you'll soon become an expert in 20th-century history, says Solveig Steinhardt.

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Altes Museum Berlin’s collection of classical antiquities, housed inside a breathtaking Neoclassical building. Take in the mosaic floor of Hadrian’s villa, a wealth of Greek sculptures, and a number of Etruscan and Roman finds. To 18 Jun: Dangerous Perfection: Antique grave-vases from Apulia. Featuring 13 largescale vases from the indigenous population of southern Italy 2,500 years ago. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www. smb.museum. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.266424242.

S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Alte Nationalgalerie A splendorous collection of 19th-century art. To 12 Mar: An Urban Landscape – A 360º Panorama of Rome by Friedrich Loos. A cabinet exhibition of a 19th century city on the cusp of change. From 30 Mar: Small Masterpieces features masterpieces small and miniature in size. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6 with exhibition, €10/5 museum only. www.smb.museum. Bodestr.

1–3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Bode Museum An extensive collection of Old Masters’ paintings, a section dedicated to ancient coins, and many works of Roman and Byzantine art adorn the museum’s impressive interior, built by Ernst von Ihne in 1904. To 27 May: Art Coins Money: MUSE POWER MONEY examines the interaction between art, money, and power. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.smb.museum. Am Kupfergraben.

T: 030.266424242. U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Bröhan Museum

Trebbiner Str. 9, 10963 Berlin www.sdtb.de /deutschestechnikmuseum

Hundreds of listings every month

Starting in 1966, collector Karl Bröhan amassed hundreds of Art Nouveau and Art Deco objects and various paintings from the Berlin Secessionist movement. Browse through pieces of furniture, housewares, ceramics, and glassware from this fascinating artistic period. To 23 Jul: Kieser, Posters.

Celebrating the innovations of one of Germany’s most prolific graphic designers. Open Tue–Sun 10am–6pm www.broehan-museum.de. Schloßstr.

1a. T: 030.32690600. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

DDR Museum Learn about daily life in the former East Germany at this hands-on museum. Closets filled with GDR (DDR in German) fashion and a Trabant (the GDR car) are just some of the items on display, while photographs illustrate Communist habits, such as collectively potty-training babies or going on nudist holidays. Mon–Sun 10am–8pm, Sat until 10pm. €7/4. www.ddr-museum.de.

Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 1. T: 030.847123731.

S Hackescher Markt, U Alexanderplatz. E3

Deutsches Historisches Museum MUST SEE Learn about the milestones in German history from the Roman occupation of the Germanic areas to the present day. To 14 May: German colonialism, Fragments of Its Past and Present confronts the controversial topic of Germany’s colonial past. Daily 10am–6pm. €8/4 (under-18s free). www.dhm.de. Unter den Linden 2.

T: 030.203040. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Deutsches Technikmuseum MUST SEE At the museum for all things

technology, the old locomotives and aviation

©istock

Topographie des terrors: © istock; all other images: courtesy of DDR MUSEUM.

For Explorers!

Museums

®

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

The German Spy Museum Delve into the world of espionage with two floors of interactive exhibits covering some 3500 years of espionage history. Highlights include presentations on James Bond and other famous fictitious spies and a laser maze that tests your agility to break into – or out of – compromising locations. €12/8. Daily 10am-8pm. www.deutschesspionagemuseum.de. Leipziger Platz 9.

S+U Potsdamer Platz E3

Jewish Museum MUST SEE Daniel Libeskind’s architectural jewel, shaped as a deconstructed Star of David, explores millennia of German Jewish history, including the alternating glories and persecutions of the community. To 5 Mar: A Muslim, a Christian and a Jew. Artist Eran Shakine depicts the trio in humorous everyday settings while underscoring their similar hopes and dreams. Daily 10am–8pm, Mon until 10pm. €8/3. www.jmberlin.de. Lindenstr.

9-14. T: 030.25993300.

U Hallesches Tor, U Kochstraße. E4

Martin-Gropius-Bau MUST SEE One of the city’s best art and photography exhibition spaces and an important example of early 20th-century architecture, the imposing building combines Italian Renaissance elements with local features, such as mosaics of allegorical figures. To 5 Mar: Robert Doisneau – Photographs. With just one iconic photograph taken in 1950, Doisneau further established Paris as the city of love. From 11 Mar: Friedrich Kiesler: Architect, Artist, Visionary. Exploring the universality of the avant garde artist’s work in 20th

century architecture and art history. To 12 Mar: Omer Fast: Talking Is Not Always the Solution.

Presenting seven of Fast’s works, which question the boundary between an experiencer’s account and the media, fact and fiction. Wed–Mon 10am–7pm. Prices vary by exhibition. www.gropiusbau.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 7.

T: 030.254860. U Kochstraße. E4

Museum Berggruen

The GDR’s Ministry of State Security, the Stasi, has been described as one of the most repressive intelligence and secret police agencies to ever have existed. Explore the agency’s headquarters and learn about their spying techniques, inc. cameras hidden in watering cans or inside fake trees. Open Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat & Sun noon–6pm. €5/4. www.stasimuseum.de.

Ruschestr. 103. T: 030.5536854.

U Magdalenenstraße. Off Map

MUST SEE A can’t-miss for Picassophiles. The Spanish painter is the star of this Charlottenburg museum, which boasts dozens of Berlin has more than 440 rooms filled with his paintings. The contemporary art Berlinische Galerie collection encompasses 75 years of galleries, which makes A modern art collection of 5000+ his life and all of his creative phases. it the number one works of German and Eastern Expanded in 2013, the museum also gallery city in all of European paintings. From 18 Mar: Europe. features many famous works by Christine Streuli – Works by the FredMatisse, Klee, Giacometti, Van Gogh, Theieler-Prize 2017 recipient. To 24 Apr: Cézanne, and many more. To 12 Mar: George Cornelia Schleime – A Blink explores this year’s Condo. Confrontation. A retrospective of the Hannah-Höch-Preis winner, whose dissident work American painter’s oeuvre. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm. in the GDR days resulted in her getting banned €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 1. T: from East Berlin. To 24 Apr: Tatjana Doll – New 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3 World Atlas presents the Hannah-Höch-Förderpreis Museum of Photography winner’s large-scale work that question Diverse and comprehesive exhibitions curated phenomena in mass culture. To 21 Aug: John from the Berlin Art Library’s vast photographic Bock. Bock’s work celebrates the absurdity in the collection are housed in a Neoclassical 1909 world. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm. €8/5 (€10/7 during building built for the Prussian army’s officer exhibitions). www.berlinischegalerie.de. Alte corps, whose lower two floors are occupied by Jakobstr. 124-128. the Helmut Newton Foundation. To 2 Jul: ‘The T: 030.78902600.

Field Has Eyes…’: Images of the Surveillant Gaze. A U Hallesches Tor. E4 presentation of surveillance, from the 16th to 20th C/O Berlin century. To 2 Jul: Watching You, Watching Me. A MUST SEE Contemporary art and photography Photographic Response to Surveillance. Raising has finally reopened in the Amerika Haus, which important questions of the blurred lines between housed the American library during the Cold War public and private in our surveillance culture. To 14 May: Alice Springs: The MEP Show/Helmut Newton: era. To 23 Apr: WATCHED! Surveillance Art & Yellow Press/Mart Engelen: Portraits. Portraits and Photography. Exploring how we navigate the street photography from Alice Springs, the widow contemporary surveillant society. To 23 Apr: Total of Helmut Newton; Helmut Newton’s paparazzi Records. Vinyl & Photography. A presentation of album and police photography; and Dutch artist Mart covers, both classic and lesser-known, that have Engelen’s film noir-inspired black-and-white advanced photography as an art form. portraits. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Daily 11am–8pm. €10/5. www.co-berlin.org Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum.

Hardenbergstr. 22–24. T: 030.28444160.

Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.266424242.

S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4 S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3–C4

Art galleries

Neues Museum MUST SEE The 3300-year-old bust of Queen

Nefertiti is the museum’s top attraction. Examine a world-famous Egyptian collection that includes many important papyruses, while hundreds of artifacts relate early human history. Badly damaged during WWII and left abandoned until the 1980s, the museum reopened in 2009. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www. neues-museum.de. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242.

S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Pergamon Museum

At the Gipsformerei (smb.museums) you can buy replicas of many sculptures held in Berlin's museums.

Stasi Museum

One of Berlin’s main attractions, the Pergamon houses the outcome of Germany’s early-20thcentury archeology excavations. The imposing Ishtar Gate of Babylon with its glazed blue bricks is a feast for the eyes, as are the Market Gate from Myletus, the reconstructed interiors of an Assyrian palace, and many other splendorous testimonies to the ancient world. The altar room is closed for restoration through 2019. To 2 Apr: The Heritage of the Ancient Kings. Ctesiphon and the Persian Sources of Islamic Art. An exhibition tracing the origins of Islamic art and cultural heritage. www.smb. museum. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242.

S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Dalí – The Exhibition

The permanent exhibit features more than 400 works, most from private collections, by the Surrealist painter, with a focus on drawing, illustration, and film. Dalí fans explore new perspectives of the artist’s life and work. Daily noon–8pm (10am–8pm in summer). €12.50. www.daliberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 7.

Toll number: 0700.3254237546.

U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Deutsche Bank KunstHalle With an emphasis on paper and photography, the Deutsche Bank’s art collection is a stroll along the timeline of modern art. Every year, the bank pays tribute to young artists by organizing an international prize. To 5 Mar: Bhupen Khakhar: You Can’t Please All. A survey of the courageous and internationally recognized artist from 20th century India. From 24 Mar: Kemang Wa Lehulere: Bird Song. The Artist of the Year presents his first solo exhibition, with works centering on black South African history Daily 10am–8pm. €4/3. www.deutsche-bank-kunsthalle.de.

Unter den Linden 13/15.

T: 030.2020930.

S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Credit: Gipsformerei © Staatliche Museen zu Berlin. Foto: Maximilian Meisse

rooms are the most popular attractions, while a Rosinenbomber, a 1948 Berlin Airlift aircraft, is mounted on the museum’s roof. A hands-on section allows kids to conduct experiments. To 4 Apr: From Department Store to Tacheles. Photographs of the Friedrichstraßen-Passage. A photographic documentation of the life of this historic landmark.

Mon–Fri 9am–5:30pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €8/4. www.sdtb.de. Trebbiner Str. 9. T: 030.902540.

U Möckernbrücke, U Gleisdreieck. E4

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T: 030.266424242. U Naturkundemuseum, S Hauptbahnhof. D2

MUST SEE One of the finest collections of European art from the 13th to the 18th centuries.

Lots of Dutch and Flemish painters, including Rembrandt and Vermeer, and a vast collection of Italian Renaissance art, including Botticelli, Titian, and Canaletto. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum.

Matthäikirchplatz 50. T: 030.266424242.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

me Collectors Room

The permanent collection of this former railway station includes a selection of works from the Friedrich Christian Flick Collection, and the many temporary exhibitions focus on painting and sculpture from the past 50 years, as well as videos, music, and design. From 17 Mar: moving is in every direction. Environments – Installations – Narrative Spaces. A sensory learning experience of the history of installation art. To 3 Sep: Adrian Piper.

The Probable Trust Registry: The Rules of the Game #1-3.

An intimately interactive installation of promises and principles. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €14/7. www.hamburgerbahnhof.de. Invalidenstr. 50-51.

Thomas Olbricht created this space to bring together other international art collectors and to organize exhibitions, workshops, and concerts. The upper floor houses his “cabinet of curiosities.”

From 4 Mar: Picha/Images – Between Nairobi and Berlin. To 2 Apr: My Abstract World. Tue–Sun noon– 6pm. €7/4. www.me-berlin.com. Auguststr. 68.

T: 030.86008510. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

l museum Internatiotna exhibition permanen

Commercial Galleries Stella A. Galerie / Edition, from 3 Mar to 29 Apr: Christian Schiebe: The Presence of the absence.

Gipsstr. 4. www.stella-a.de; Galerie P.W. Richard, from 10 Mar to 13 Apr: Giuseppe Santomaso: Plus. Graphics from the Erker-Press. Wielandstr. 13. www.galerie-p-w-richard.de; Galerie Gilla Lörcher – Contemporary Art, from 11 Mar to 21 Apr: Susanne Jung: Solo Show. Pohlstr. 73. www.galerie-loercher. de; C&K Galerie, from 11 Mar to 22 Apr: Jan Muche: Align. Joachimstr. 17. www.cundkgalerie.de; mianki.Gallery, 24 Mar to 13 Apr: Michael Schuster: See You Again. Kalckreuthstr. 15. www.mianki.com.

(worth

2,80€)

open daily:

Mon - Sun 12 p.m. - 8 p.m.

July + August 10 a.m. - 8 p.m.

(24th December closed)

Potsdamer Platz entrance: Leipziger Platz 7 Hômmage á S. Dalí by DaVial

Hamburger Bahnhof

Infos: 0700 - 325 423 75**| Tickets: www.DaliBerlin.de

(**0,14€/ Min. from a landline, mobile communications vary, max 0,42€/ Min.) *only in combination with the entrance fee. Cannot be combined with other offers.

Valid until March, 31st 2017.

With over 450 exhibits from private collections this permanent exhibition provides general insight into Dalí’s virtuous mastery in almost all art techniques in Berlin’s lively city centre.

www.daliberlin.de

Take a walk through

Berlin’s history

Cover-ing The Twentieth Century You can’t judge a book by its cover, but does the same sentiment apply towards vinyl records? From Nirvana's iconic baby swimming underwater to The Beatles crossing Abbey Road, record covers have spoken, or sung, to generations of music lovers. Presenting both classic and lesser-known record covers, the exhibition Total Records, at C/O Berlin (p. 40) until 23 April, follows the music and photography history of the 20th century, also showcasing creative cover collaborations such as those between Annie Leibovitz and Cindy Lauper, Jeff Wall and Iggy Pop, Nobuyoshi Araki and Björk, and many others.

©ISTOCK

Prince's album "LOVESEXY", Total Records, courtesy of C/O Berlin.

Credit: Gipsformerei © Staatliche Museen zu Berlin. Foto: Maximilian Meisse

Gemäldegalerie – Old Masters Painting Gallery

®

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DINING | THE GUIDE

These photos: Einsunternull. Inset, below: Distrikt Coffee.

Mitte Of It All Whether it’s shopping, sightseeing, or museum and gallery hopping that fills your Berlin itinerary, there’s a good chance you’ll be spending plenty of time in Mitte. The name of this district literally means “center,” and true to its title, Mitte lies not only in the middle of the city, but also at the heart of Berlin’s historic, commercial, cultural, and nightlife offerings. Whichever side of Mitte it is that draws you, eating well should be on the itinerary too. For a full day’s worth of great dining, these are some of my favorites.

To get the day off to a good start, head to Distrikt Coffee (Bergstr. 68, www. distriktcoffee.de) for a stack of extra-fluffy buttermilk pancakes and a flat white. This spacious café with hip, industrial-chic décor makes great coffee, but it’s the all-day breakfast menu that really makes it a local favorite. The famous pancakes served with citrus butter and maple berry preserves are easily the most popular thing on the menu,

but don’t miss the softly poached eggs, smashed avocado on sourdough, or toasted banana bread either.

After a couple hours of shopping around the boutique district below Rosenthaler Platz, refuel with a tasty lunch at Muret la Barba (Rosenthaler Str. 61, www.muretlabarba.de).

Though it masquerades as a mere wine shop, in the back room are restaurant tables where a daily lunch menu is served, featuring antipasti, housemade pastas with whatever’s in season, risotto, and salads with burrata cheese and tender octopus.

For dinner, splash out for the tasting menu at Einsunternull (Hannoversche Str. 1, www. einsunternull.com), one of the most celebrated recent openings in the Berlin

dining scene. Their contemporary, daring German cuisine with a dedicated focus on local, seasonal ingredients has won numerous accolades, not least a brand-new Michelin star in the 2017 edition of the venerated dining guide. Diners can customize their own six- to 10-course tasting menu that elevates regional fish, meat, produce, and foraged delicacies to exciting culinary heights.

For a post-dinner nightcap, head to Redwood (Bergstr. 25, www.redwoodbar. de). Don’t let the pared-down interior fool you: The drinks are complex and inspired, and the bartenders masterful. Try something off the monthly cocktail menu – which is sure to include a few liquors you’ve never heard of – and let yourself be surprised.

courtesy of einsunternull and distrikt coffee.

When spending time in Berlin’s most bustling central district, you’ll want to stay well fed. Follow Hilda Hoy’s tips for a full day’s worth of great food and drink.

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courtesy of einsunternull and distrikt coffee.

DINING KEY Alc (à la carte): Prices are per person for three courses (excl. drinks) €: under €15. €€: €15–€40. €€€: €40–€80. €€€€: over €80. Restaurants listed in Fine Dining have at least one Michelin star. Letter/ number codes correspond to map at back of book.

the prime rib restaurant

Recommended by Die Goldenen Schlüssel Deutschland e.V./U.I.C.H. Les Clefs d’Or.

Our focus is the U.S.-Prime Rib, which is cut from the core of lean prime rib. Other classics of the upscale U.S. kitchen can be also enjoyed.

Fine Dining For a complete list of Berlin's Michelin-starred restaurants, visit wheretraveler.com/berlin.

Facil Situated in a glass atrium of The Mandala Hotel and ringed by the courtyard’s trees, Facil has mastered understated elegance in both its décor and cuisine. Double-Michelin-starred chef Michael Kempf is particularly masterful with seafood when creating his fine menus. €€€€. Mon–Fri L&D. www.facil.de. Potsdamer Str. 3.

T: 030.590051234. S Potsdamer Platz. D3

Fischers Fritz Pure, straightforward luxury is the formula at this restaurant in the Regent Berlin Hotel. One of just a handful of Berlin restaurants to earn two Michelin stars, Fischers Fritz will not fail to impress with its elevated cuisine and finely honed service. €€€€.

Daily B, humuD. www.fischersfritzberlin.com.

Charlottenstr. 49. T: 030.20336363.

U Französische Straße. E3

Horváth Austria-born chef Sebastian Frank built a reputation – and earned a Michelin star – with his highly creative, oftentimes minimalist use of seasonal ingredients, from sunchokes to candied parsley root to spruce needles. Wooden interior and lovely outdoor patio. €€€. Wed–Sun D. www.restaurant-horvath.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 44a.

T: 030.61289992.

U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer The Hotel Adlon restaurant boasts two Michelin stars and a well-earned spot in the upper echelon of Berlin’s finest restaurants. No detail is spared in the creation of an unforgettable dining experience, presided over by chef Hendrik Otto. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.lorenzadlon-esszimmer.de.

Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2661196.

S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

IT`S PRIME TIME in Crowne Plaza Berlin City Centre Nürnberger Straße 65 · 10787 Berlin T: +49 30 2100 7000 info@restaurant-wilsons.de www.restaurant-wilsons.de

Servus Bavaria!

Delicious german food and drinks, at Maximilians – the place to be.

Pauly Saal The chic, hip décor is matched by a menu of equally creative German cuisine, which was awarded a Michelin star in 2013. Meat dishes made from local game are a highlight. €€€. Daily L&D, closed Sun. www.paulysaal.com. Auguststr. 11–13.

T: 030.33006070. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Reinstoff Chef Daniel Achilles didn’t earn two Michelin stars by playing it safe. The two nightly dinner menus at Reinstoff – one focused on regional tastes, the other incorporating influences from farther afield – are successful experiments in exciting, avantgarde cuisine. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.reinstoff.eu. Schlegelstr. 26c. T: 030.30881214.

U Naturkundemuseum, S Nordbahnhof. E2

Rutz

Friedrichstr. 185–190 U-Bahnhof Stadtmitte www.maximiliansberlin.de

Wine bar, wine shop, and restaurant in one, Rutz offers perfectly paired meals by Chef www.wheretraveler.com 43

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DINING Marco Müller, whose six-, eight-, and 10-course “Inspiration Menus” combine simple yet diverse ingredients into creative taste sensations. €€€€.

Tue–Sun D. www.rutz-weinbar.de. Chausseestr. 8.

T: 030.24628760. U Oranienburger Tor. E4

Charlottenburg– Wilmersdorf Café Wintergarten im Literaturhaus German/Austrian. Classic elegance permeates the high-ceilinged rooms of this café, reminiscent of turn-of-the-century literary salons. Snag a table in the greenhouse-like vestibule, or settle down by one of the grand windows to enjoy breakfast, bistro-style meals, or a glass of wine. €. Daily B, L, D. www.literaturhaus-berlin.de. Fasanenstr. 23.

T: 030.8825414. U Uhlandstraße. C4

Glass Mediterranean. A 2013 addition to the west-end

gourmet scene, Glass is the baby of Israeli chef Gal Ben Moshe. Guests in the sleek, modern space get wowed with an innovative tasting menu that changes daily and the show-stopping “Candy Box” dessert, which includes a chocolate mousse frozen tableside with liquid nitrogen. €€€. Daily D, closed Sun–Mon. www.glassberlin.de. Uhlandstr. 195.

T: 030.54710861. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

Lamazère Brasserie French. Proof that fine dining needn’t break the

bank is Lamazère Brasserie, a much-lauded dining spot that earned “Bib Gourmand” status in the revered Michelin Guide, a category commending great food at good value. The three-course dinner menu for €35 will allow you to sample various French food musts, like oeufs cocotte baked eggs, charcuterie platters, duck confit, beef tartare, and tarte tatin for dessert. Whatever the kitchen has cooking that night, every delicacy has that je ne sas quoi that has made French cuisine so famous. €€€. Tue-Sun D. www.lamazere.de. Stuttgarter Platz 18. T: 030.31800712. S Charlottenburg. B4

equivalent, vareniky, a selection of Georgian wines, and, of course, plenty of vodka. €. Daily L&D. Boxhagener Str. 60. T: 0163.9870767. S Ostkreuz. H3

Rudi-Dutschke-Str. 23. T: 030.2521155.

U Kochstraße. E4

Schneeweiss

Asian-European fusion. Restaurant, lounge, and club in one, Spindler & Klatt makes full use of its prime river location. In the summer, the waterside terrace is a memorable spot to enjoy the menu of Pan-Asian dishes, from fine sushi to sizzling tuna steaks and dry-aged Irish steaks hot off the grill.

Even in colder months, the chic, post-industrial interior – built in the 1800s as an army bakery – is unforgettable too. On Fridays and Saturdays, the spot transforms into a club from 23pm. €€€. Daily D. www.spindlerklatt.com. Köpenicker Str. 16–17.

T: 030 319881860. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

German/Austrian. With a crisply white interior reminiscent of snow-capped Alpine peaks, Schneeweiss serves upscale takes on traditional Austrian cuisine, such as schnitzel and goulash with Serviettenknödel dumplings. Rotating seasonal offerings. €€. Mon–Fri D, Sat–Sun B, L, D. www.schneeweiss-berlin.de. Simplonstr. 16.

T: 030.29049704. S+U Warschauer Straße. H3

Kreuzberg Kimchi Princess

Spindler & Klatt

Mitte

Korean. “Let them eat kimchi,” implores the website for this hip, popular Korean restaurant. The house specialty is the meaty tabletop barbecue to be split between two or more diners, which comes with all the traditional side dishes including, of course, kimchi. €€. Daily D. www.kimchiprincess.com.

Skalitzer Str. 36. T: 0163.4580203.

U Görlitzer Bahnhof. F4

Italian. Healthful, filling breakfasts, quick business lunches, happy-hour cocktails, and dinner with friends in the red-bricked arches under the trains at S Hackescher Markt station. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.barist.de. Am Zwirngraben 13.

T: 030.24722613. S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

Sale e Tabacchi

Borchardt

Italian. A stone’s throw from Checkpoint

Charlie, an area that’s something of a culinary wasteland, lies this elegant Italian restaurant known for attracting celebrities. Try the ricotta-and mint-stuffed zucchini blossoms, a popular starter. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.sale-e-tabacchi.de.

Barist

German/French. A favorite hobnobbing spot

of the rich and famous, Borchardt is popular for both its food (especially the schnitzel) as well as the opportunity to see and be seen. €€. Daily L&D. www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Französische Str. 47.

T: 030.81886262. U Französische Straße. E3

Paris Bar French. Many celebrities – including

Madonna, Sophia Loren, and Robert De Niro – have patronized this West Berlin institution over the years. The bistro-style menu includes French classics like oysters and steak-frites, though the legend alone is enough to draw guests. €€€.

Daily L&D. www.parisbar.net. Kantstr. 152.

T: 030.3138052. S Savignyplatz. C4

Wilson's – The Prime Rib Restaurant

Zwölf Apostel Italian. The interior of this Charlottenburg restaurant is frescoed like a Renaissance church, and the famed pizzas are named after each of Jesus’s twelve apostles. The thin-crust, wood-fired pizzas are sinfully delicious, as are the other Italian menu items. Second location: Georgenstr. 2, Mitte. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.12-apostel.de. Bleibtreustr.

49. T: 030.31 21433. S Savignyplatz. B4

FRiedrichshain Matreshka

Russian. Simple, homey Russian fare. Borscht, meat-

stuffed pelmeni dumplings and their vegetarian

All The Fish You Could Wish If eating food straight out of the can is something you associate with your broke student days, Sardinen Bar is here to challenge those culinary stereotypes. Modeling itself after the fish bars of Portugal and other Mediterranean countries, Sardinen Bar is the first venture to bring that concept to Germany, serving an exhaustive variety – more than 100 kinds – of rich, flavorful, premium sardines straight out of the can, as well as tuna, mackerel, octopus, and other seafood delicacies, sourced from Portugal, France, and Spain. Bonus: Many of the little tins feature cool, charmingly retro designs, which explains why they also decorate the walls of the chic, cozy space in Schöneberg’s Akazienkiez neighborhood. There are fantastic wines and fresh salads to pair with the fishy treats of your choosing, as well as cheese and charcuterie from the renowned Maître Philippe & Filles shop.

Grunewaldstr. 79. T: 030 58844170. www.facebook.com/sardinen.bar

Courtesy of sardinen bar, © Maria studio

American. Juicy, high-quality meats cooked the American way and served with salads, potatoes and extravagant desserts. €€€. www.restaurant-wilsons. de. Crowne Plaza Berlin City Centre. Nürnberger Str. 65. T: 030.21007000. U Augsburger Straße. C4

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Beef Bull Club Steaks. Juicy, delicious steaks and high-quality meats on the bustling, lively Platz at Hackescher Markt. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.beefbullclub.de.

Neue Promenade 7. T: 030.27582849.

S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

Cookies Cream Vegetarian. A whole new kind of vegetarian

dining. First, there’s getting there, which feels more like going to an underground club than a restaurant. Then there’s the food, vegetarian eating gone haute cuisine, thanks to celebrity chef Stephan Hentschel. €€–€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.cookiescream.com. Behrenstr. 55.

T: 030.27492940. U Französische Straße. E3

Chicago Williams BBQ American. A culinary ambassador for the American

BBQ tradition, Chicago Williams specializes in meat and more meat. Order a combo of sticky ribs, pulled pork, or jerk chicken, and sides like coleslaw, macaroni and cheese, or mashed potatoes. €€. Daily D. www.chicagowilliamsbbq. de. Hannoversche Str. 2. T: 030.28042422.

U Oranienburger Tor. E2

Crackers German. Heinz “Cookie” Gindullis' latest entry into the hybrid club/restaurant space features an innovative bar that serves experimental drinks and a rotating roster of international and local DJs four nights a week from 9pm until late. www.crackersberlin.com. Friedrichstr. 158.

T: 030.680730488.

U Französische Straße. E3

Experience selected Szechuan and Cantonese foods in modern ambience try our special Peking duck

Am Kupfergraben 4 / 4A 10117 Berlin daily opened 12:00-23:00

Reservation: 030 - 200 595 00 www.restaurant-jolly.de

Dóttir Scandinavian. After Dóttir opened in the spring of 2015, chef Victoria Eliasdóttir quickly became known as something of a prodigy. The confident and very talented 20-something Icelandic chef creates minimalist yet potently delicious Nordic cuisine, with an emphasis on the freshest seafood available. €€€.

Tue–Sat D. www.dottirberlin.de. Mittelstr. 40.

T: 030.330060760.

S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Grand Rocka International. Inside, the restaurant takes over the historic arched space under S Hackescher Markt station, featuring a grand old wooden bar that lives up to the restaurant’s name, and out front, the terrace spills out across the busy Platz. The large international menu ranges from steaks to pizzas to burgers. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.grandrocka.de.

Am Zwirngraben 6–7. T: 030.24638606. F2

The Grand German. The sophisticated supper club, with origins reaching back to 1842, boasts an American grill that makes its international array of steaks among the best in town. The upstairs lounge (and, in particular, its cocktails) attracts a decadent late-night scene. €€€. Mon–Fri L, Daily D. www.the-grand-berlin. com. Hirtenstraße 4. T: 030.278909555. U RosaLuxemburg-Platz. F2

Hummus & Friends Israeli. Creamy, rich, and fluffy hummus with warm pita bread might just be Israel’s national dish, and with the opening of Hummus & Friends, it’s easy to get in the German capital too. Also on the menu are fresh, colorful salads and side dishes like roasted whole cauliflower with tahini sauce. The bar even serves kosher Israeli wine. €. Daily L&D. www. hummus-and-friends.com. Oranienburger Str. 27.

T: 030.55471454. S Oranienburger Straße. F2

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DINING Jolly

Maximilians

Chinese. Just across the water from Museum Island,

German. Maximilians recreates the feel of a cozy Bavarian beer hall with hearty food and plentiful beer to match. Meaty specialties include pork knuckle served with dumplings and sauerkraut, freshly baked pretzels, and the tempting “Munich sausage parade.” From the four kinds of Paulaner beer on tap to the warm hospitality, Maximilians goes to great lengths to transport a piece of Bavaria to the heart of Mitte. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.maximiliansrestaurant.de. Friedrichstr.

185–190. T: 030.20450559.

U Stadtmitte. E3

Jolly’s location couldn’t be better for a tasty Chinese meal in between sightseeing stops. Bring an appetite to try as many of the steamed dim sum dumplings as possible before moving on to the menu’s extensive variety of Sichuan-style and Cantonese dishes.

Traditional Peking duck is the house specialty. €€. Daily L and D. www.restaurant-jolly.de. Am Kupfergraben 4/4A. T: 030.20059500.

S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Käfer Dachgarten-Restaurant of the German Bundestag German. The Reichstag is for more than sightseeing.

Thanks to the culinary team behind Käfer, it’s also a fine dining destination. On the roof of the famed landmark, Käfer boasts splendid views and refined, modern German cuisine. Advance reservations required. Due to security precautions, each guest must provide official photo I.D. upon entry. €€€.

Daily B, L, D. www.feinkost-kaefer.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030 2262990. U Bundestag, S Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3.

Katz Orange German/European. Housed in a former brewery, the

warm, stylish interior decoration of this restaurant is met with a menu of top-quality, updated comfort foods. The kitchen’s pride and joy is the “Slow Food” section of the menu, starring 12-hour, sous vide roasted pork neck, ribs, or lamb shoulder. €€. Daily D, closed Sun. www.katzorange.com. Bergstr. 22.

T: 030.983208430. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

Nante Eck German. With delightful dishes from Berlin’s

traditional cuisine and a menu that changes every month, the Nante Eck restaurant offers a refined cuisine made with fresh local ingredients.

Specialties include extra-big currywurst with potato and cucumber salad and Flammkuchen pies.

Very long beer menu. €. Daily L&D in summer. www.nante-eck.de. Unter den Linden 35.

T: 030.22487257.

U Französische Straße. F2

Restauration 1840 German. An elegant, old-timey restaurant decorated in the style of Berlin’s Golden 1920s.

Think curved brick ceilings and lots of warm wood everywhere, plus an outdoor terrace. The menu: classic German meets modern European.€€. Daily B, L, D. www.berlin-1840.de.de. Am Zwirngraben 10. T: 030.24727401.

S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

Prenzlauer Berg I Due Forni Italian. The atmosphere in this pizza hall is raucous and the service notoriously surly, but that doesn’t keep the pizza-loving crowds at bay. The generously sized and traditional-style thin-crust concoctions are famed around the city. €. Daily L&D. Schönhauser Allee 12. T: 030.44017333.

U Senefelderplatz. F2

Lucky Leek Vegetarian. It’s not luck that makes Lucky Leek so good, but rather a dedication to creating topnotch gourmet cuisine that is also 100-percent vegan and incorporates international tastes. The small but comprehensive menu changes regularly. €€. Wed–Sun D. www.lucky-leek.de. Koll U Senefelderplatz. F2

Tiergarten Café am Neuen See and Biergarten German/European. A waterside location in the middle of the Tiergarten park makes this a lovely spot come warm weather or chilly. Besides satisfying meals, visitors can enjoy a seat in the beer garden or a row on the lake in summer or glowing fireplaces and games of Eisstockschiessen – a Bavarian ice game similar to curling – in the winter. €. Daily B, L, D. www.cafeamneuensee.de.

Lichtensteinallee 2.

T: 030.2544930.

S Tiergarten. C3

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THE GUIDE | ENTERTAINMENT

Left and inset, below: The Wintergarten Varieté theater in Potsdamer Straße.; Right: scenes and characters from the Wintergarten's Vaudeville Variety Burlesque Review.

THEATER, IMMODESTY BLAIZE, DAVE THE BEAR, THE COOL CATS: COURTESY OF WINTERGARTEN VARIETÉ.

The Show Must Go On For a night of pure entertainment, follow Hilda Hoy’s lead and book tickets at one of Berlin’s stellar cabaret and variety theaters.

Since the 1920s, when the hedonistic capital’s cabaret scene made headlines around the world, this city has been known as a hotbed of no-holds-barred entertainment. And though the Nazi regime and WWII effectively stamped out the cabaret scene back then, it has thankfully made a resurgence and is now alive and thriving again, to the delight of locals and tourists alike.

One of the first places to start is Wintergarten Varieté (Potsdamer Str. 96, www.wintergarten-berlin.de) on the edge of the Schöneberg and Tiergarten districts. The theater seating is decked out in the style of the glamorous 1920s, with loads of red velvet and golden trim. The audience is clustered around round tables, where they can enjoy a full three-course meal or just a glass (or three) of the best bubbly while taking in the show. All month, the show LIKE BERLIN promises to deliver “the soul of Berlin” in one wildly entertaining mix of music and artistry. And on

19 March, there will be a special showing of the Vaudeville Variety Burlesque Revue, a titillating blend of racy burlesque, drag, acrobatics, and vintage flair. Stick around afterwards to check out the vaudeville market, offering 1950s rockabilly fashion and accessories.

Belonging to the same theater network is Tipi am Kanzleramt (Große Querallee, www.tipi-amkanzleramt.de), a glam cabaret stage set in a big tent wedged between Tiergarten Park and the Chancellery. Like the Wintergarten, the Tipi also offers a colorful program of musical entertainment combined with dance, humor, and drama. This month it’s all about the music: the Double Drums show (10–12 March) will see a duo of prizewinning percussionists playing perfectly synchronized “groove symphonies”

using more than 500 everyday objects. On 17 March, the Brassballett troupe of dancing brass musicians will put on a toe-tapping, footstomping show filled with infectious rhythm.

Chamäleon (Rosenthaler Str. 40–41, www.chamaeleonberlin.com) is a historic variety theater venue with a lively program of shows that draw from the contemporary circus style, or nouveau cirque, with shows that blend acrobatics, dance, theater, music, and more.

Running all month is Scotch & Soda, a feisty mix of circus and jazz inspired by the secret parties of the Prohibition era. Arrive a little early to explore the cool Hackesche Höfe courtyard complex with its pretty Art Nouveau detailing, then take a seat at one of the theater’s bistro-style tables to feast and imbibe while you’re thoroughly entertained. www.wheretraveler.com 47

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ENTERTAINMENT

Deutsche Oper A 1960s décor-free box of acoustic magic. Director and conductor Donald Runnicles puts together rich programs with lots of Verdi, Rossini, and Mozart. 1, 4, 9 Mar: Edward II (Scartazzini). 2, 5, 10 Mar: Faust (Gounod). 3, 11 Mar: Cosí Fan Tutte (Mozart). 12, 18 Mar: Tannhäuser (Wagner). 19, 22, 25 Mar: Death in Venice (Britten). 24 Mar: Die Zauberflöte (Mozart). www.deutscheoperberlin.de.

T: 030.34384343. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Komische Oper Young and daring opera productions won this theater the title of Opera House of the Year 2013.

Australian intendant Barrie Kosky is also the artistic director of some of the performances, with mesmerizing results. 2, 5, 10, 26 Mar: Petrushka/ L'Enfant et les Sortilèges (Stravinsky/Ravel). 3, 8, 25 Mar: Ball im Savoy (Abraham). 4, 12 Mar: Les Contes d'Hoffmann (Offenbach). 9, 17, 24 Mar: Don Giovanni (Mozart). 11, 19 Mar: My Fair Lady (Loewe).

18, 31 Mar: Carmen (Bizet). www.komische-operberlin.de. Behrensstr. 55-57. T: 030.47997400.

U Französische Straße. E3

Staatsballett Berlin’s ballet company currently performs at various locations. 1 Mar: Multiplicity. Forms of Silence and Emptiness, by Nacho Duato, at Komische Oper. 3, 31 Mar: Herrumbre by Nacho Duato, at Schiller Theater. 14, 17 Mar: Maillot/Millepied by Jean-Christophe Maillot and Benjamin Millepied at Deutsche Oper. 24 Mar: Jewels by George Balanchine at Schiller Theater. www.staatsballettberlin.de. T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Staatsoper im Schiller Theater While its home on Unter den Linden gets

Boy Meets World Triple Englishness at CineStar Original, IMAX, and KulturBrauerei!

Enjoy Berlin’s widest range of undubbed English versions all-day at CineStar Original and see undubbed versions of documentaries and blockbusters at IMAX as well – on Berlin’s largest screen!

Our tip: Every first Tuesday of the month Sneak-previews in original version with german subtitles at KulturBrauerei. More info and tickets at cinestar.de

Aubrey Drake Graham, better known as Drake, (aka. Drizzy, aka.

Champagne Papi) is undoubtedly the biggest rapper to ever come out of Canada, with a 2013 Grammy for best rap album under his belt, quadruple platinum status, and too many infectious hits to count. But like many of today’s biggest stars, he’s more than just a music maker – he’s a pop culture influencer and a commercial force to be reckoned with, with his own record label and clothing line. As if that wasn’t enough, he also gets the credit for adding the acronym YOLO to popular vocabulary. (Which, if you don’t have a teenager in your life to explain, stands for “you only live once.”) This month, Toronto’s homegrown superstar makes a stop in Berlin on his Boy Meets World tour – don’t miss him on 9 March at Mercedes-Benz Arena (p. 50).

revamped, the Staatsoper has temporarily moved all performances to the Schiller Theater. Daniel Barenboim’s perfect productions range from Baroque operas to contemporary premieres.

4, 9, 11, 18 Mar: Ariadne auf Naxos (Strauss).

5, 19 Mar: Tannhäuser (Wagner). 20, 23, 25 Mar: Madama Butterfly (Puccini). www.staatsoper-berlin. de. T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Classical Concerts Berliner Dom Berlin’s main cathedral presents a plethora of sacred music concerts year round. www. berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269136.

S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Hochschule für Musik Hans Eisler One of Berlin’s most prestigious music academies.

Its students are members of important orchestras, choirs, and bands, and the stage presents hundreds of concerts every year – many of which are free. www.hfm-berlin.de. Charlottenstr. 55.

T: 030.688305700. U Stadtmitte. E3

Chamber Music Hall of the Philharmonie Part of the Philharmonie, this concert hall presents daily chamber-music concerts and free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays. 2 Mar: The Neue Preußische Philharmonie (cond. Thomas Hennig) performs Mozart. 3, 9, 16 Mar: Pianist Ran Jia plays Schubert. 8 Mar: Baroque music with Concerto Melante and the Gamba Consort Phantasm.

10 Mar: Quadro Nuevo, Canzone della Strada.

11 Mar: The RIAS Kammerchor (cond. Wood) plays Hosokawa, Feldman, Wood. 14 Mar: The Kammerakademie Potsdam (cond. Fazil Say) performs Haydn, Say, Mozart, and Kraus. 14 Mar: The Kammerakademie Potsdam (cond. Fazil Say) performs Haydn, Say, Mozart, and Kraus. 15 Mar:

wikimedia commons via flickr user kee1992. Next page: the one, courtesy of friedrichstadt-palast.

Ballet & Opera

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wikimedia commons via flickr user kee1992. Next page: the one, courtesy of friedrichstadt-palast.

FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT wheretraveler.com

The Philharmonische Chor Berlin (cond. Weigle) plays Beethoven. 17 Mar: The Ginzburg Dynastie Swing Band (cond. Igor Ginzburg), jazz concert.

22 Mar: Accordionist Ksenjia Sidorova in concert.

27 Mar: Charlie Cunningham in concert. www. berliner-philharmoniker.de. Herbert-von-KarajanStr. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Konzerthaus

79. T: 030.4481222. U Eberswalder Straße, Rosenthaler Platz. F2; Eden Studios: Breite Str. 43 (Pankow). T: 030.35120312.

S+U Pankow. Off Map

HAU (Hebbel am Ufer) Cutting-edge shows and hip performances at this off-theater and cultural point. www.hebbel-amufer.de. Stresemannstr. 29; Tempelhofer Ufer 10; Hallesches Ufer 32. T: 030.2590040.

U Hallesches Tor. E4

This charismatic 1821 concert hall is the base theater of the Konzerthausorchester, but other orchestras and soloists grace its stage regularly.

Radialsystem V 3–5 Mar: The Konzerthausorchester (cond. Eliahu Once a turn-of-the-century pumping station for Inbal) performs Mendelssohn and Mahler. 5 the Berlin Water Services, this creative space is Mar: Akademie für Alte Musik Berlin: Telemann, now a cultural center and idea factory that hosts Händel, Vivaldi. 6 Mar: Man Doki Soulmates. performances of all kinds, from classical concerts 9 Mar: The Brandt Bauer Frick Ensemble to jazz jam sessions to contemporary in concert. 11 Mar: Vogler Quartett dance. www.radialsystem.de. in concert. 13 Mar: MusicAeterna Holzmarktstr. 33. (cond. Teodor Currentzis, violin T: 030.288788588. S+U Patricia Kopatchinskaja) play Jannowitzbrücke. G3 Mozart and Beethoven. 14 Mar: In its ‘36 Hours’ travel The Staatskapelle Berlin (cond.

Sophiensaele feature, the New York Times Mehta) performs Haydn's Die Choreographer Sasha Waltz’s lists the Friedrichstadt-Palast Schöpfung. 17 Mar: The Berlin center for avant-garde dance, as one of the top 10 Oratorien-Chor sings Schubert. 18 contemporary theater (mainly in must-see places Mar: The Chor der St. HedwigsGerman), music, and experimental in Berlin.

Kathedrale performs Brahms' Ein performance artists.

Deutsches Requiem. 21 Mar: Piotr Beczala www.sophiensaele.com. Sophienstr. 18. sings Lieder by Schumann and others. 24-25 T: 030.2835266. U Weinmeisterstraße, Mar: Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin and S Hackescher Markt, S Oranienburger Straße. E2 the RIAS Kammerchor (cond. Vladimir Jurowski) perform Mozart and Pärt. www.konzerthaus.de.

Gendarmenmarkt. T: 030.203092101.

U Hausvogteiplatz. E3 CinemaxX Potsdamer Platz

on this month THEATER, MUSICALS & DANCE BLUE MAN GROUP Bluemax Theater, all month

THE ONE: GRAND SHOW Friedrichstadt-Palast, all month

SCOTCH AND SODA Chamäleon Theater, all month

LIKE BERLIN Wintergarten Berlin, all month

The 12 tenors Tipi am Kanzleramt, 18–26 Mar

MASSACHUSSETTS, Bee gEES Tempodrom, 26 Mar The One, Grand Show, at Underart at Chamäleon.

Friedrichstadt-Palast.

Movie Theaters

Philharmonie The iconic concert venue is home to the acclaimed Berliner Philharmoniker, currently led by Sir Simon Rattle, but also hosts other ensembles and soloists. Free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays 1pm.

2 Mar: Kremerata Baltica (violin Gidon Kremer, piano Martha Argerich) perform Schumann, Mozart and Weinberg. 4–6 Mar: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Zubin Mehta) and sitar player Anoushka Shankar perform Ravi Shankar.

9–12 Mar: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond.

Zubin Mehta) with Pinchas Zukermann performs works by Elgar and Tchaikovsky. 16–19 Mar: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Sir Simon Rattle) performs works by Bartók and Gruber. 21 Mar: Pianist Murray Perahia in concert. 22–23 Mar: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Kirill Petrenko) performs works by Mozart, Adams and Tchaikovsky. 29 Mar: Pianist Grigory Sokolov plays Mozart. 30 Mar: The Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchetser Berlin and Khatia and Gvantsa Buniatishvili perform Mozart, Milhaud and Dvorak. www. berliner-philharmoniker.de. Herbert-von-KarajanStr. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin Injecting new expression into 19th- and 20thcentury classical works under the lead of Marek Janowski, the oldest German radio orchestra with its 103 members has won a place in the top tier of European concert orchestras. www.rsb-online.de.

Tickets: 030.20298715.

DANCE AND EXPERIMENTAL SPACES Dock 11 Studios & Eden Avant-garde dance shows and contemporary performances inside an old factory. Two locations, one in Prenzlauer Berg, one in Pankow. www. dock11-berlin.de. Dock 11 Studios: Kastanienallee

Multiplex cinema. Most of the movies are screened in their original language, with or without subtitles. www.cinemaxx.de. Potsdamer Str. 5.

T: 040.80806969. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Cinestar Sony Center The latest Hollywood blockbusters, in English, every day. www.cinestar.de. Potsdamer Str. 4.

T: 030.26066400. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Odeon This old-school single-screen cinema was Berlin’s first English-language theater and still screens both cult movies and new releases. Hauptstr. 116.

T: 030.78704019. U Rathaus Schöneberg, S Schöneberg. C5

Rock, Pop, Jazz A-Trane Since 1992, this intimately sized but important venue (it was named Best German Jazzclub in 2011) has welcomed both emerging and A-list talent, including Wynton Marsalis, Herbie Hancock, and Diana Krall. Daily from 8pm, free entry Sunday after 10:30pm. www.a-trane.de. Pestalozzistr. 105.

T: 030.3132550. S Savignyplatz. B3/B4

Arena A very large music hall that used to be a bus depot. www.arena-berlin.de. Eichenstr. 4.

T: 030.5332030. S Treptower Park, Schlesisches Tor. G4

B Flat Jazz Club Small jazz bands play almost every night at this bar.

Free jam sessions every Wednesday. www.b-flatberlin.de. Dircksenstr. 40. T: 030.2833123.

S+U Alexanderplatz. F2

Café Bilderbuch Frequent jazz concerts and readings at this Schöneberg café. Second Wednesday of the

ROCK, JAZZ, POP Drake Mercedes-Benz-Arena, 9 Mar

AMY LOUiSIAN Tempodrom, 25 Mar

BALLET & CLASSICAL Vogler quartett Konzerthaus 11 Mar

COSÌ FAN TUTTE Deutsche Oper, 3 and 11 Mar

Martha Argerich Philharmonie, 2 Mar

Ball im savoy Komische Oper, 25 Mar

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Berlin has an abandoned theme park. With its old ferris wheel, a Viking ship, and life-sized dinosaurs, Spreepark closed down in 2001.

KulturBrauerei

DAVID HO

CKNEY A portrait greatest of Britain’s living artis t

The early-1900s brewery complex now houses various restaurants and art spaces, with a rich combination of programs, as well as a very popular street-food market most Sundays. www.kulturbrauerei.de. Schönhauser Allee 36.

T: 030.44352614. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

FASHION WEEK Pop-

up shop shows and s, catwalk style advic e

PLUS

A rocking new musi c venue Stars take on Robots throu Shakespeare gh the ages

Places for prop for two, gift osals, spas idea romantic day s and trips

Lido A former cinema turned club and concert venue for rock-indie lovers. Check website for program.

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Quasimodo

The place to go for salsa, merengue, bachata, R&B, and Reggaeton. Check website for program. www. havanna-berlin.de. Hauptstr. 30. T: 030.7848565.

S Julius-Leber-Brücke, U Eisenacher Straße. D5

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RECOMME

A massive arena for world-touring pop concerts and sports events, including those of Berlin’s professional ice hockey team, the Eisbären.

4 Mar: Music Parade 2017. 9 Mar: Drake. 18 Mar: Sarah Connor. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin. de. Mühlenstr. 12–30. T: 030.2060708899.

U Warschauer Straße. G4

The multi-function event space hosts some of today’s most popular pop and rock acts. www.columbia-theater.de. Columbiadamm 13-21.

T: 030.69812814. U Platz der Luftbrücke. E5

Havanna

FEBR U A R Y W HER E T R AV2 0 17 EL ER . C OM E~OAHW

Columbiahalle/C-Halle

Enjoy an evening with the world’s top look-and-sound-alike artists and taste a three-course dinner during Stars In Concert, a live performance of legends like Elvis, Abba, Johnny Cash, Buddy Holly, and more. www.stars-in-concert. de. Wed–Sat 8:30pm, Sun 7pm.

Sonnenallee 225. €20, from €60 with dinner. Off Map

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www.lido-berlin.de. Cuvrystr. 7. T: 030.69566840.

U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Estrel Festival Center Berlin

FIND THE BEST OF THE ISLAND where trave

month: Michael Gechter’s Vocaljazz Trio. www.cafe-bilderbuch.de. Akazienstr. 28.

T: 030.78706057. U Eisenacherstraße. D5

One of Berlin’s historic music cafés.

Diversified program with many musical styles, from jazz to blues, R&B to soul. www.quasimodo.de.

Kantstr. 12a. T: 030.31804560.

S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

SO36

The heart of Kreuzberg’s radical scene.

The Dead Kennedys and Die Toten Hosen played here a few times, while today’s program ranges from punk and hard rock concerts to flea markets and tea afternoons. www.so36.de.

Oranienstr. 190. T: 030.61401306.

U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Tempodrom This large concert building resembling a circus tent – and situated on the former grounds of the now-gone Anhalter Bahnhof – hosts an array of events, from classical concerts and pop-rock productions to mixed martial arts and dance.

3 Mar: Holiday On Ice. 23 Mar: Annett Louisian.

24 Mar: Tedeschi Trucks Band. 25 Mar: Amy Macdonald. 26 Mar: Massachussetts, The Bee Gees Musical. www.tempodrom.de. Möckernstr.

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Celebratio ns every weekend throughou t October

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With its grand 1820s architecture and sumptuous neoclassical interior, the Konzerthaus on Gendarmenmarkt (p. 49) is the kind of venue where you’d expect to hear the likes of Mozart, not anything from the contemporary world of techno. But on 9 March, the Konzerthaus will host a cool and very creative concert from Brandt Brauer Frick Ensemble, a groundbreaking Berlin group that brings together the worlds of classical and electronic music. For their shows, electronic musicians Daniel Brandt, Jan Brauer, and Paul Frick take to the stage with a supporting band of classical instrumentalists that includes a violinist, a cellist, a tuba player, and even a harpist. Their sounds are sampled and mixed live into a rhythmic tapestry of beats that might even get people dancing beneath Konzerthaus’s pretty chandeliers.

Brandt Brauer Frick_06_© Nico Stinghe & Park Bennett

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10. Toll number: 0186.554111.

S Anhalter Bahnhof. E4

Theater, Cabaret & Musicals Admiralspalast One of Berlin’s few preserved pre-WWII variety venues offers an international, high-caliber program of musicals, cabaret, and concerts in an elegant hall from the 1920s. www.admiralspalast. de. Friedrichstr. 101. T: 030.47997499.

S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Bar Jeder Vernunft A 1912 tent housing song-and-dance shows, comedy, and cabaret. Many shows in German only. www.bar-jeder-vernunft.de. Schaperstr. 24.

T: 030.8831582. U Spichernstraße. C4

Blue Man Group The unmistakable Blue Man Group has its own permanent theater, the Bluemax Theater, where the blue-domed performers present an energetic combination of music, art, pantomime, and comedy. The few spoken words are in English.

Shows take place almost every night. Check website for info. www.stage-entertainment.de.

Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Chamäleon Variete An old ballroom where it is not unusual to see trapeze artists, jugglers, tap dancers, and cabaret singers. All month: Scotch and Soda – Circus. Jazz.

Served Straight Up! www.chamaeleonberlin.de.

Rosenthaler Str. 40/41.

T: 030.4000590. S Hackescher Markt. E2

THE 12 TENORS Greatest Hits March 18 to 26 Tickets 030. 39 06 65 50 // www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de

Friedrichstadt-Palast Special effects, glitzy Vegas-style live show productions at this modern theater. All month: The One, Grand Show, a dreamlike journey through time in search of the person we love. www.palast.berlin Friedrichstr. 107.

T: 030.23262326.

U Friedrichstraße. E3

Quatsch Comedy Club This popular club hosts frequent stand-up comedy shows and a regular English-language night. www. quatschcomedyclub.de. Friedrichstr. 107. Toll number: 01806.999000969. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Tipi am Kanzleramt The big tent in the Tiergarten has a vast program of musicals, magic, cabaret, dance, and theater. Many shows are in German. 9 Mar: Piano Battle. 10 Mar: Double Drums. 17 Mar: Brassballett.

18–26 Mar: The 12 Tenors. 29–30 Mar: Sharon Brauner & Band. www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de.

Große Querallee.

T: 030.39066550.

U Bundestag. D3

Volksbühne An experimental multimedia theater and cultural center where you can see plays, readings, lectures, concerts, and more. Check website for program. www.volksbuehne-berlin.de. Linienstr. 227.

T: 030.24065777. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Wintergarten Varieté This sumptuous variety theater that has earned a reputation for its revitalized Vaudeville-inspired productions, as well as world-famous acts.

All month: LIKE BERLIN. www.wintergarten-berlin.de.

Potsdamer Str. 96. T: 030.588433.

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NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE

Luck O' The Irish Germans dub every evening after work as a Feierabend (literally ‘celebration evening’).

This is especially true on St. Patrick’s Day, when Irish-inspired festivities break out at pubs, bars, and even a film festival around Berlin. So on Friday, 17 March, dress up in your pinch-proof green attire and hit the town for live music, dancing, and of course a wee bit of Guinness.

Situated in a cozy corner of Charlottenburg, the charming Irish Harp (Giesebrechtstr. 15. www.harp-pub.de) has two full bars offering a wide selection of Irish and German drinks, including of course beers and ales. On St. Paddy’s Day, pubgoers can listen to melodious live music from its namesake instrument and, if the weather warms up, sip a pint on its terrace.

If you’re looking to down a bit of traditional Irish food with your beer, The Lir (Flensburger

Str. 1, www.thelir.de) near Tiergarten has an extensive menu, including some unique items like the hearty Galway Seafood Stew. Its dimly lit but inviting atmosphere also makes for a fine locale to cozy up to a drink.

If you fancy celebrating a bit further east, head to the Happy Pigs Pub (Lenbachstr. 1, www. thehappypigs.de) in the heart of Friedrichshain.

With festive green walls and a wide selection of beers and cocktails, the always happening hub is a lively locale to catch bands playing their favorite Irish melodies or to round up friends for a dart competition.

For a different taste of Irish culture, visit the

Sheeben Flick Irish Film Festival (www. shebeenflick.com), which will be taking place from 16-19 March at Berlin’s Moviemento Kino.

The five-year-old festival features a curated program of Irish films that have not been distributed in Germany, as well as some Irish classics. Each feature film is paired up with a short and, as a special treat, the filmmakers and cast will answer audience questions after the film at the pop-up bar.

You can wrap up the evening by stopping at the glowing green TV Tower at Alexanderplatz (tv-turm.de), festively lit up – courtesy of Berlin’s Irish embassy – throughout the whole weekend.

main image: ©istock. inset: courtesy of the irish harp.

Rachel Stern rounds up the best locales to celebrate your inner Irish this Saint Patrick’s Day.

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Beer Ankerklause A canal-side tavern where drinks come with beautiful views of passing boats. Daily from 10am (Mon from 4pm). www.ankerklause.de. Kottbusser Damm 104. T: 030.6935649. U Schönleinstraße. F4

Café am Neuen See and Biergarten A pleasant lakeside beer garden inside the verdant Tiergarten park. Open daily from breakfast onwards. www.cafeamneuensee.de.

Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930.

S Tiergarten. C3

Club der Visionäre This canal-side boat-shack attracts young crowds till early morning and beyond. Daily from 2pm until very late (from noon Sat & Sun). www. clubdervisionaere.com. Am Flutgraben 1.

T: 030.69518942. U Schlesisches Tor, S Treptower Park. G4

Dicke Wirtin This old Berliner Kneipe restaurant is a Charlottenburg institution. Great beer and traditional German dishes. Daily from 11am. www.dicke-wirtin.de. Carmerstr. 9. T: 030.3124952.

S Savignyplatz, S+U Zoologischer Garten. B4

Prater Berlin’s oldest Biergarten serves simple and homely cuisine, seasonal specialties, and lots of beer of course! Daily from 6pm (from noon Sat). www.pratergarten.de. Kastanienallee 7-9.

T: 030.4485688.

U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Schleusenkrug A relaxing spot for beer lovers amid the lush greenery of the Tiergarten. German specialties to go with your beer include a variety of cakes, Flammkuchen, and a few breakfast options. Daily from 11am. www.schleusenkrug.de. Müller-BreslauStr. T: 030.3139909. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

Casinos Spielbank Berlin A modern casino offering three floors of fun and games, including 20 tables of roulette, blackjack, and an extensive variety of poker options, as well as 350 gaming machines. Daily from 11am. www. spielbank-berlin.de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1.

T: 030.255990. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3/D4

Wine & Cocktails Bar Tausend Celebrities mingle while watching the expert mixologists do their magic at this futuristic bar. Thu–Sat from 7:30pm. www.tausendberlin. com. Schiffbauerdamm 11. T: 030.27582070. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Fragrances

©istock photos.

main image: ©istock. inset: courtesy of the irish harp.

NIGHTLIFE

The Ritz-Carlton’s bar is the world’s only to pair cocktails with perfumes.

Each drink is represented by a tester bottle of the perfume it’s based on and a photo illustrating the final presentation, which ranges from playful to whimsical. www. ritzcarlton.com. Potsdamer Platz 3. T: 030.337777. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

The Grand A former school building has been transformed into a super-hip restaurant, bar and club all mixed into one. Enjoy top cocktails and a selection of cigars on the green leather couches in the 1920s-inspired bar, then dance the night away in the chic, intimate club. www.the-grand-berlin.com.

Hirtenstr. 4. T: 030.2789099555.

S+U Alexanderplatz. B4

Green Door Cocktail Bar One of Berlin’s most relaxing cocktail bars, with a retro style and lots of kitsch décor. The cocktail list is long and the barman famous. Daily 6pm–3am (Fri–Sat until 4am). www.greendoor.de.

Winterfeldtstr. 50. T: 030.2152515.

U Nollendorfplatz. D4

Harry’s New York Bar An international drink menu with 200+ different cocktails, served to a jazz soundtrack. Mon–Sat from 4pm. www.esplanade.de. Grand Hotel Esplanade Berlin, Lützowufer 15.

T: 030.254780. Bus M29, stop Lützowplatz. D4

LaBanca Bar The Hotel de Rome’s bar team specializes in avantgarde cocktails made with unusual ingredients such as balsamic vinegar, rose petals, or ginger beer. Live music Wed–Sat, rooftop terrace in summer. www.hotelderome.com. Behrenstr. 37.

T: 030.4606090. U Französische Straße. E3

Newton Bar

CLUB GUIDE Berghain/Panorama Bar The world's most famous techno club – and with the toughest doormen too. Fri 12am– Mon. www.berghain.de.

Am Wriezener Bahnhof. G3

Kater Blau A top-notch soundsystem driving house and techno beats from the best DJs, and a carnival-like atmosphere. Fri–Sat from midnight. www.katerblau.de.

Holzmarktstr. 25. G3

Tresor Housed in the safe of a department store, Tresor was the first techno club in Berlin’s post-Wall years. www.tresorberlin.com.

Köpenicker Str. 70. F3

Watergate A two-story electro, house, and drum & bass temple, right on the Spree River. Tight doors. Mon, Wed–Sat from midnight. www.water-gate.de.

Falckensteinstr. 49. G4

House of Weekend

Cigars, champagne, whiskey, and cocktails define this bar, which is entirely dedicated to fashion photographer Helmut Newton. Daily 10am–3am (until 4am Fri–Sat). www.newton-bar.de.

Charlottenstr. 57. T: 030.20295421. U Französische Straße. E3

Three floors, fabulous views over the city, and the best DJs playing techno and house.

Fri–Sun from 11pm. www.week-end-berlin. de. Alexanderplatz 7. F3

Reingold

A popular, century-old dance hall. It's salsa on Mon, tango on Tues, swing on Wed, cha cha on Thu, and live ballroom music on Fri+Sat. www.ballhaus.de.

Auguststr. 24.

U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

A classic cocktail bar, 1920s style. Elegant leather sofas, sumptuous lighting, and gilded elements with a soundtrack ranging from soul and funk to R&B. Tue–Sat from 7pm. www.reingold.de.

Novalisstr. 11. T: 030.28387676. U Oranienburger Tor. E2

Schwarzes Café A 24-hour combination of a bar and a café, with a good selection of beer and wine and hot meals at any time of night. Lovely garden. 24h a day except Tue from 3–10am. www.schwarzescafe-berlin.de.

Kantstr. 148. T: 030.3138038. U Uhlandstraße, U Savignyplatz. B4

Clärchens Ballhaus

Horns & Hooves An eccentric combination of club, piano bar, cabaret, and circus. www.hornsandhooves. de. Danziger Str. 1. F1

Gretchen

Times Bar

Funk, hip hop, drum & bass and electronica at this eclectic Kreuzberg club. Fri & Sat. www.gretchen-club.de.

Obentrautstr. 19-21. E4

A fine and luxurious bar inside the Savoy Hotel, offering modern drinks and Caribbean cocktails alongside a selection of Cuban cigars. www. weinrot-restaurant.com. Fasanenstr. 9-10.

T: 030.311030. S Savignyplatz. C4

A favorite among the rich and famous.

Mon, Thu–Sat. www.felix-clubrestaurant.de. Behrenstr. 72.

Victoria Bar Top-notch cocktails and a marvelous, elegant interior with dark-wood walls, leather couches, and art aplenty. Open daily 6.30pm–3am (until 4am on Friday & Saturday). www. victoriabar.de. Potsdamer Str. 102. T: 030.25759977. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D4 Whiskey, anyone? At Harry's New York Bar (this page) you can pick from 120 varieties.

Felix Club

E3

Puro Sky Lounge High-heeled crowds in a sleek, luxurious setting on the roof of the Europa Center.

Wed–Sat from 8pm. www.puroberlin.de.

Tauentzienstr. 9-12. C4

The Pearl Luxurious club for the poshest crowds, Thu–Sat until 7am. www.thepearl-berlin.de.

Fasanenstr. 81. G4

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ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE

ASK THE CONCIERGE

Over the years, the city's concierges have delighted Where Berlin readers with many priceless tips. Here are some highlights.

"Berlin in three words? Pulsating, international, historic."

– Uwe Aselmann, Berlin Marriott Hotel "It's historical, hip, exciting!"

– Swen Roessler, Grand Hyatt Berlin "The quintessential Berlin experience: driving 200 km/h (125 mph) on a German Autobahn with a Porsche while eating bratwurst and listening to German bands such as Rammstein, Paul Kalkbrenner, and the Beatsteaks."

– Thomas Munko, The Ritz-Carlton

– Torsten Kaminski, The Ritz-Carlton "I take visitors to my neighborhood, Friedrichshain, to show them the pubs of Simon-Dach-Straße or the weekly flea market at Boxhagener Platz."

– Gerhard Buskies, Hilton Berlin "There's nothing more pleasant than sitting at a café on Rüdesheimer Platz in Wilmersdorf with a glass of wine in your hand."

– Alexander Hohmann, The Ritz-Carlton "Romantic tip: Next to the idyllic Engelbecken, in the heart of Kreuzberg, is a café where you'll feel like you've left the city behind."

– Kay Mischke, Hotel Palace Berlin

"Savignyplatz, with its cafés and restaurants, is one of the coziest spots in Berlin."

– Christoph Hundehege, Waldorf Astoria

"The former Tempelhof Airport, now a park, is a mysterious place with many interesting stories to tell."

– Sebastian Sonnemann, Titanic Deluxe

"Park Gleisdreieck reflects the spirit of Berlin. It brings together all different walks of life and is a modern meeting place."

– San Ndiaye, Sofitel Berlin Kurfürstendamm

"Go to Altes Zollhaus for the best Königsberger Klöpse, German meatballs in a caper sauce."

– Philipp Stopp, Waldorf Astoria

"On my ideal day, I'd have breakfast at Fischerhütte on Schlachtensee and then visit Peacock Island."

– Sebastian Schönfisch, Grand Hyatt Berlin

"My wildest experience as a concierge?

The visit of Michael Jackson!"

– Joachim Lenk, Adlon Kempinski

"Once, a guest on his way to a Sunday karaoke party came to me "At the Beelitzer Heilstätten, you can and said, 'We NEED a plastic rat.'

And we pulled it off !" visit an old sanatorium that makes a charming backdrop or photoshoots." – Anne Raber, Roccoforte Hotel de Rome – Marc Schiffer, The Ritz-Carlton "I always find marriage proposals charming. Each one is different, and I've organized at least 50."

– Sandra Bösemüller, The Regent Berlin

"We NEED a plastic rat!"

TIPS & TRICKS "Special tip: Briefmarken Weine, a GDR-era stamp shop on Karl-MarxAllee turned into a wine bar."

– Linda Urban, Waldorf Astoria "My secret: The bartender at Schwarze Traube won the 'Germany's Best Mixologist' prize in 2013. Tell him your mood, and he'll make you the perfect drink."

– Ayjut Kanbak, Grand Hyatt Berlin "Eisbein (ham hock) with sauerkraut, mashed peas, and potatoes from Max & Moritz in Kreuzberg is my favorite German specialty."

– Tim Sachse, Hilton Berlin "I love taking guests on a video bus tour, driving around Berlin while watching footage of the past."

– Carina Gerber, The Ritz-Carlton "For when it's cold outside: A candlelit table near the pianist at Filou on Bleibtreustraße."

– Michael Kudoll, Sofitel Berlin Kurfürstendamm "I recommend the Georg Kolbe Museum in Westend, followed by a visit to the Olympic Stadium."

CONCIERGE ADVENTURES

"My wildest time as a concierge?

The time after the Wall came down."

– Lutz Schneider, Westin Grand Berlin

Flea market at Boxhagener Platz

Tempelhof Airport Peacock island

"Let's put it this way: As concierges, there's nothing we don't come across."

– André Höftmann, Adlon Kempinski "A colleague once received a call from a guest complaining about the microwave not working. Well, the room had no microwave. He was trying to heat up his sandwich in the safe."

– Thomas Munko, The Ritz-Carlton "I still remember the in-house World Cup celebrations, when the Italians and the Brazilians needed to be shielded from the rest."

– Marc Schnabel, Kempinski Hotel Bristol Berlin "A guest was interested in hydrogen busses. I called the BVG and arranged a hydrogen bus for us.

Our guest was overwhelmed."

– Nicolai Laaser, Sofitel Berlin-Gendarmenmarkt

ALL PHOTOS © ISTOCK

ESSENCE OF BERLIN "Berlin is Berlin, with heart and Schnauze (attitude), and always full of surprises."

– Hatem Ferjani, Berlin Marriott Hotel

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Useful Information Emergency numbers Police, call 110 free from any phone.

Ambulance or fire, call 112 free from any phone.

Medical Services, T: 030.310031.

24h Pharmacy: Hauptbahnhof Apotheke.

T: 030.20614190. S Hauptbahnhof.

Tourist Passes and Discount Cards Where Pass Berlin: public transport and discounted entry to a long list of attractions. Get it at the S-Bahn Berlin machines and service centers. www.wherepassberlin.com

Berlin Airports Berlin Tegel (TXL) Approx. 10 km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150.

TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By bus: Buses 109 or X9 to Zoologischer Garten

run every 10 mins, taking approx. 20 mins. The TXL express bus to Alexanderplatz via Hauptbahnhof runs every 5–10 mins, taking. 25 mins. Single tickets cost €2.70 and can be bought on board.

By U-Bahn: Bus 109 or X9 connects to the U-Bahn system at Jakob-Kaiser-Platz. Bus 128 links to the U-Bahn at Kurt-Schumacher-Platz and runs every 10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. Tickets cost €2.70.

By taxi: Regular cabs take 10–20 mins to city center. Approx. €20–€35.

Left luggage: Service center in Terminal A (ground floor). T: 030.41012315.

Berlin Schönefeld (SXF) Approx. 20 km (12 miles) southeast of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150.

TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By regional train: Deutsche Bahn-operated

RE7 or RB14 to Ostbahnhof, Alexanderplatz, Hauptbahnhof, and Zoologischer Garten. RE9 to Hauptbahnhof via Südkreuz and Potsdamer Platz.

Trains take approx. 45 mins. Tickets cost €3.30.

By S-Bahn: Trains S9 and S45 to Hauptbahnhof, via Ostkreuz and Südkreuz respectively, run every 20 mins, taking approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.30.

By U-Bahn: Bus X7 and X11 to Rudow station connect with the U-Bahn system and run every 10 mins. Journey approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.30.

By (night) bus: Arrivals between midnight and 4am Mon–Fri can take bus N7 to central areas.

By taxi: Regular cabs take approx. 30 mins to city center, costing €30–€40.

Left luggage: At the multi-storey car park P4.

T: 030.60911150.

Getting Around Public Transport www.bvg.de.

Fares Buy tickets from machines in the station, and be sure to validate them in the posts next to the ticket machines. Single tickets cost €2.70; or save by paying €9 for four single-trip tickets, which you can validate as you need. If traveling fewer than three train stations or six bus or tram stops, buy

a short-trip ticket for €1.70. Day tickets cost €7 for unlimited travel until 3am the following day, or if you are traveling with others, a small group ticket will get up to five people unlimited travel for €17,30. For those staying longer, a pass valid for seven days may be a better value at €30.

U-Bahn The underground system is extensive. Most lines run every five minutes (less frequently outside working hours), 4am–12:30am (replaced by night buses outside of these times). The entire U-Bahn and S-Bahn network runs all night on weekends.

S-Bahn The above-ground system is faster than the U-Bahn but less frequent. Trains run every 10–20 mins. Timing and ticket rules apply as above.

Public Ferries With a regular BVG ticket ,you can hop on one of the six public ferry lines. Most beautiful is the trip from Wannsee to lakeside Kladow village; ferries leave every hour and take about 20 minutes.

Rail Travel Deutsche Bahn is the railway company that manages the Regional Bahn (RB) and Regional Express (RE) trains, operating around greater Berlin and Potsdam. The Intercity (IC) and European City (EC) trains travel further afield. www.bahn.de. Toll number: 0180.6996633.

Rent A Bike Explore Berlin by bike.Deutsche Bahn Call-a-Bike service: www.callabike.de.Berlin and Bike: www.berlinandbike.de. T: 0163.5120124.

MAP LICENSE NUMBER: BVG-0050.16

All Photos © istock

ESSENTIALS

www.wheretraveler.com 55

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10/02/2017 14:30

U

Where now | Meral Al-Mer

My Berlin

Meral Al-Mer [singer & writer]

Soulful and powerful: two words that sum up the songs of multitalented Berlin-based musician Meral Al-Mer. In addition to releasing a series of memorable singles, the former X Factor contestant has also won awards for her journalism work and published an autobiography in 2013 titled Nicht ohne meine Mutter (Not Without My Mother). www.meralalmer.com

What makes this an inspiring place to be as a musician?

This is where all the clubs are, the shops, the contacts, the studios, and all the other musicians. This city pulsates with energy, and is always in a state of flux. What’s more, people stay younger for longer than they do in other cities. There, 30 is already considered old. But here, 30 is just the start of your career.

Which neighborhood do you live in, and what makes you feel at home there?

Prenzlauer Berg is my home. Around Lychener Straße, Schliemannstraße, and Dunckerstraße has always been my neighborhood. This area is where there used to be a lot of squat houses. I like the old East Berliners around there, and the mix of old and new. Also, Prenzlauer Berg just isn’t as loud as Kreuzberg.

If you could dedicate a song to Berlin, which one would it be?

I would pick my song called Wer ist Meral (Who is Meral), which I have just written and am starting to produce. It fits because the song brings together everything about me, and about this city – multi-faceted.

What are your favorite places in the city to listen to music and go out dancing?

I like going out to bars – the Neu! Bar in Greifswalder Straße (www.dieneubar.de) is one of my favorites. It’s a very dark bar with heavy chandeliers and good drinks in a space that used to be a pharmacy.

Last weekend, I went to the SchwuZ club (www.schwuz.de). I love flitting from one dance floor to the next and observing the colorful mix of people.

Berlin has a really big queer scene with a bit of everything, which I find fascinating!

When you have friends or family visiting, where in the city do you take them?

I don’t really like sightseeing tours – I’ll do

them only when I have to. Better would be to spend a Sunday having brunch somewhere on Kastanienallee, then going to the flea market in Mauerpark. The karaoke show at the amphitheater is a highlight. Afterwards, we’d head to Mitte for window shopping, or to hang out at a café on Hackescher Markt.

Imagine it’s a beautiful sunny day and you have the entire day off. What would your perfect day look like?

On my days off, I like to leave the city and visit friends out in the countryside. We make music, have food, take walks, and spend the evening by the fire.

In just an hour, you can be out where it’s green. That’s another thing I love about Berlin.

Clockwise from top left: Building façades in Prenzlauer Berg; Meral Al-Mer; the busy streets of Prenzlauer Berg; Berlin cafés; Mauerpark. Inset: karaoke at Mauerpark.

meral al-mer: courtesy of meral al-mer; All other photos: © istock.

How long have you been living in Berlin, and what brought you here?

I was drawn to Berlin by the sense of freedom that it emanates. I come from a small town in the Rhine region of western Germany, where the world is a rather smaller place than it is here.

58 W H E R E B E R L I N I M A R C H 2017

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