Where Berlin May 2017 by Morris Media Network

Berlin

M AY 2 0 17 W HER E T R AV EL ER . C OM

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HOT SHOPS Take a look at Berlin‘s best stores

ALSO INSIDE: STRANGE MUSEUMS, THE GOLDEN TWENTIES, EVENT CALENDAR

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Berlin

CONTENTS

05.17 See more of Berlin at wheretraveler.com

The Plan Let’s get started

The Guide The best of Berlin

6 Hot Dates

A spring shower is the perfect excuse to hit the shops.

Highlights of the month's can't-miss events, from May Day celebrations to the Comic Invasion festival and more.

SIGHTSEEING

XX do a nature site, public What park, and party venue all have in common? Trains.

1 58

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Martin XX Luther's protest against the Catholic church and the art it inspired.

24 6

Where the interior design is as XX a draw card as the menu. much

58 My Berlin

ENTERTAINMENT

Sebastian Studnitzky Insider tips from a local jazz musician.

Not just big brass! The annual XJAZZ Festival presents a fresh and diverse look at today's jazz.

Also Inside

NIGHTLIFE

54 Ask The Concierge Recommendations from Benjamin Mönkemöller, concierge at Hotel de Rome.

Berlin

M AY 2 0 17 W HER E T R AV EL ER . C OM

DINING

Let the good times roll at one of Berlin's old-school skittles bars. ESSENTIALS

From transport to emergency numbers, find useful information for your stay in Berlin.

Where Now

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Learn about Berlin through its quirkiest museums.

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14 The Strangest Museums

ALSO INSIDE: STRANGE MUSEUMS, THE GOLDEN TWENTIES, EVENT CALENDAR

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Take a look at Berlin‘s best stores

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CHILLY GONZALES: COURTESY OF CHILLY GONZALES; THE DESIGNPANOPTIKUM: COURTESY OF THE DESIGN PANOPTIKUM; TEMPELHOFER PARK: © ISTOCK; MARLENE DIETRICH: COURTESY OF THE MARLENE DIETRICH ARCHIVE, DEUTSCHE KINEMATHEK; BIKE BY VAN MOOF; AUFSCHNITT: © AVID TAL.

SHOPPING

4 Editor’s Note

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WELCOME TO BERLIN

YOUR TR AVEL ING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

where

M A G A Z I N E

Enjoying The Spring May is a very special month in Berlin. The city is as green as can be, and there's nothing like dipping into its incredible nature. But there's no need to miss out on the art and sightseeing to enjoy the city's green heart, as a lot of the museums are surrounded by parks and forest. My personal favorite is the Haus am Waldsee (U Krumme Lanke), a contemporary art gallery with a huge garden directly on the banks of the Waldsee pond. After admiring the exhibition, you can get a coffee and a slice of cake from the café, bring a table and chair to your favorite spot in the garden, and read your copy of Where Berlin in maximum privacy. Inside this issue, you'll find information about our favorite shops (p. 10), a review of the city's strangest museums (p. 14), a journey back in time to the legendary 1920s (p. 16), lots of dining recommendations, and comprehensive entertainment calendars covering every night of the month. Enjoy your stay!

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Rachel Stern, Serene Tseng

Mallia,

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Wilhelm-Kabus-Strasse 21-35, Aufgang 2, 10829 Berlin. Tel: (+49) 030 6139490. Fax: (+49) 030 61394959. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited. Where® is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications. In Berlin, Where® Magazine is pleased to be a supporter of Die Goldenen Schlüssel Deutschland eV/Les Clefs D'Or Germany and a member of Berlin Partner.

Published by Morris Visitor Publications, a subsidiary of Morris Communications Company, LLC, 725 Broad St, Augusta, GA 30901. Printed by Vogel Druck und Medienservice GmbH, Germany

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SOLVEIG STEINHARDT EDITOR, WHERE BERLIN

Schink,

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www.annettegoertz.com

ANNETTE GÖRTZ STORE BERLIN Am Gendarmenmarkt | Markgrafenstraße 42 | Ecke Französische Straße | Berlin | +49 (0) 30.20 07 46 13

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HOT

DATES May in Berlin is a month of fabulous events, from special museum openings and theater festivals to street parades and contemporary music.

MUSEUM DAY SUNDAY

No visit to Berlin is complete without visiting at least one of its impressive museums, showcasing extensive collections of everything from ancient Greek art to Jewish artifacts and huge dinosaurs. This month, the German capital pays homage to its cultural gems by participating in the 39th annual International Museum Day, hosting guided tours, workshops, and talks at several of the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s museums. www.museumstag.de

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WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

THEATERTREFFEN FROM FRIDAY

Every year since 1964, the Berliner Festspiele has been inviting 10 productions from the current German theater season to perform in Berlin for the Theatertreffen. The 54th edition of the festival, starting on 5 May, will see two weeks of fabulous performances around town, many with English surtitles, starring 38 artists from 21 countries. The program also includes audience discussions, premiere parties, and prize ceremonies for new and seasoned directors alike. www.berlinerfestspiele.de

COMIC INVASION BERLIN UNTIL SUNDAY

We all know the world's biggest superheroes, like Batman, Superman, and The Hulk, but not everybody is familiar with Berlin's own comic book characters, created by many local talented artists. For the entire first week of the month, these artists will be on hand to showcase their work at the Comic Invasion festival, filling Urban Spree on Revaler Straße with colorful rows of comic books and graphic art. www.comicinvasionberlin.de

CHILLY GONZALES MONDAY

One of the most versatile modern musicians, Canadian-born Chilly Gonzales is known for his classic piano tunes, witty hip-hop vocals, and melodic electronic compositions, sometimes woven into the same song. A true force of nature, he’s also in the Guinness Book of World Records for playing a soloperformance for over 27 hours straight in Paris. Catch the musical master at Berlin’s Konzerthaus for an eclectic evening. www.konzerthaus.de

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AEROSMITH TUESDAY

Often referred to as “America’s Greatest Rock and Roll Band,” Aerosmith has been playing a distinct style of blues-based hard rock since their founding in 1969. They have sold over 150 million albums, and are now heading to Germany for the last time to play old and more recent hits like Dream On and Sweet Emotion in their Aero-Vederci Baby! tour. www.aerosmith.com

MAY DAY

MONDAY

Labor Day in Berlin is often associated with the rowdy street demonstrations that break out in Kreuzberg. Yet in recent years, the holiday has taken on a more family-friendly face through the annual MyFest street festival, replete with local live music and food, documentary screenings, and organized protests between Oranienstraße and Mariannenplatz. At nearby Görlitzer Park, dance all day long with open-air concerts. www.myfest.de

THE LIVING PAPER CARTOON

FROM TUESDAY

Impersonating famous figures in colorful paper costumes, world-renowned artist Ennio Marchetto leads a unique one-man show at Berlin's Tipi on Kanzleramt from 23–27 May. With the help of theater and the art of origami, Ennio morphs into 50 popular characters as diverse as Madonna, the Pope, and Justin Bieber in just an hour, dazzling audiences amid a pulsating soundtrack. The versatile Italian artist has now performed in over 70 countries worldwide and, in addition to his lively and comedic acting, is known for his hand-made costumes. www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de

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HOT DATES

MAY

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31

Check out the wild May Day street parties that take over Kreuzberg every 1 May. Take a musical lunch break at the Philharmonie's free "lunch concert" at 1pm. Already a star at 18, singer Shawn Mendes takes Mercedes-Benz Arena by storm tonight. Check out day 2 of the XJAZZ Festival, a celebration of diverse, modern jazz music. It's one of the most popular ballets for good reason: see Swan Lake at Deutsche Oper. Hear it to believe it: the Akkordeonale is a festival of accordion music at Passionskirche. For antique fans, the Sunday flea market on Tiergarten's Straße des 17. Juni is a must. Chinese dance company Shen Yun hits the stage at Theater am Potsdamer Platz. Take in an open-air film at Freiluftkino Kreuzberg, just reopened for the season. Admire the fields of colorful spring tulips at the Tulipan festival in Britzer Garten, Neukölln. Vancouver indie rockers The New Pornographers are in town to play at Lido. See a raucous modern version of Bizet's celebrated opera Carmen at Komische Oper. Fancy a big night out? Enjoy decadent dinner, drinks, and dancing at Bar Tausend. Mark Mother's Day with a flower-accented brunch at Anna Blume (Kollwitzstr. 83). Almost as good as the real thing: the Elvis In Concert show at Mercedes-Benz Arena. Catch a film at CineStar Potsdamer Platz, which specializes in movies in English. Hit the dance floor at Clärchens Ballhaus, Mitte's charming centenarian dance hall. Feast on international delicacies at the Street Food Thursday event at Markthalle Neun. Toast to the weekend at Hopfenreich, featuring Berlin's biggest craft beer range. Moving medieval poems come to life in Carl Orff 's Carmina Burana at Tempodrom. See Natalie Imbruglia, singer of huge '90s hit Torn, in concert at Columbia Theater. Hear some cool music at the Experimontag event at Kreuzberg's Madame Claude venue. Head to Friedrichstadt-Palast for The One, a show featuring Gaultier costumes. Visit Chamäleon Theater to see Scotch & Soda, a fun, lively mix of circus and jazz. Toast to the Ascension holiday weekend with delicious craft beers at BRLO Brewhouse. Keen on cocktails? Don't miss the creative mixology at Mitte's Redwood (Bergstr. 25). Check out the latest in Komische Oper's Nighttime Concert series: "Sax in the City." Sing along with one of Berlin's fave Sunday pastimes: outdoor karaoke in Mauerpark. Explore the work of famed photographer Juergen Teller at Martin-Gropius-Bau. The one and only Aerosmith rocks the outdoor stage at Waldbühne tonight. Admire the famous bust of Nefertiti, queen of Ancient Egypt, at the Neues Museum.

NATURKUNDEMUSEUM: COURTESY OF NATURKUNDE MUSEUM; THEATERTREFFEN: © ROLF ARNOLD; CHILLY GONZALES: © 2015 ALEXANDRE ISARD; COMIC INVASION: © CIBPRESSE; AEROSMITH: COURTESY OF AEROSMITH PR; MAY DAY: COURTESY OF MYFEST; ENNIO MARCHETTO: COURTESY OF ENNIO MARCHETTO, WWW.ENNIOMARCHETTO.COM.

WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

For more ideas, see our Entertainment section.

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WHERE NOW | BEST SHOPS

here's much more to shopping than the lovely things you manage to bring home, and with its edgy and creative soul, Berlin is place to be for independent boutiques and innovative store concepts. Take a day off and explore the city's shops, and you'll find that sometimes the biggest reward of your adventures is just the atmosphere of the store itself and the inspiration it brings. Read on for a list of our favorite retail destinations in Berlin. FOR THE LOVE OF FOOD If there's one thing Berliners love, it's good food. And Goldhahn & Sampson, with two locations in Charlottenburg and Prenzlauer Berg, has made it a mission to celebrate fine cuisine in all its glory with a multi-functional concept catering to all food fans. There are cookbooks, from classic volumes to new releases, select cooking utensils and gadgets, and high-quality wines, preserves, pastas, and spices from all corners of the world, but with an emphasis on Italy and France. They also have a small cooking school offering daily classes in German and English. Want to learn how to make the perfect Apfelstrudel? Book your

spot for 15 May and learn the secrets of German baking. Dunckerstr. 9 (Prenzlauer Berg) and Wilmersdorfer Str. 102/103 (Charlottenburg). www.goldhahnundsampson.de THE TEMPLE OF ART SUPPLIES It's hard to leave empty handed after a visit to Modulor. The three floors of materials for artists, architects, designers, and crafty types embody the German traditions of writing and design with dizzying selections of cool pens, colorful markers, chalks, paints, as well as cards and letter paper, washi tape, rolls of fabrics, and anything else your creative soul might ever want,

with prices ranging between 50 cents and hundreds of euros. All the best German brands are represented, including Lamy, Faber Castell, and Stabilo, alongside many Japanese and US names. And if trying out a hand lettering set, picking paints, or exploring the world of architectural models has made you hungry, you can always take a break at the café, which has an international selection of pastries and very good coffee. Prinzenstr. 85. www.modulor.de BEAUTIFUL THINGS The collections change quickly at concept store Parkhaus, which carries everything Luxury stationery at Luiban

ANDREAS MURKUDIS: COURTESY OF ANDREAS MURKUDIS; GOLDHAHN UND SAMPSON: COURTESY OF GOLDHAHN UND SAMPSON. KÖNIGLICHE GARTEN AKADEMIE: COURTESY OF MANUFACTUM; PARKHAUS: COURTESY OF PARKHAUS; LUIBAN: COURTESY OF LUIBAN.

Good shopping is an art. Solveig Steinhar dt explored Berlin‘s most inspiring stores.

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GLOWING FASHION Her clothes are an explosion of colors inspired by her childhood memories of Afghanistan. Fashion designer Beatrice von Tresckow was born to a German family but has lived abroad all her life, spending long periods of time in India, Kabul, and South Africa until she settled in London, where she opened her first store on Portobello Road. Her Berlin branch near Savignyplatz is an eye-catching mix of radiating colors, iridescent fabrics, and ornate patterns that attract passersby. Step in to try out one or two pieces, whose styles range from dressy to everyday. Leibnizstr. 60. www.beatricevontresckow.com

IN THE GARDEN It's a shop, a café, a restaurant, and a gardening school, all under one glass roof – or seven, actually, because the Königliche Garten Akademie is housed inside a series of connected greenhouses right next to Botanischer Garten in Dahlem. Representing the essence of the garden lifestyle, the Akademie offers horticulture and English gardening classes amid a huge variety of plants, from lush lemon trees to rare tropical cultivations. Two of the greenhouses host the gardening shop, owned by popular design store Manufactum (www.manufactum.de) and stocking beautiful outdoor furniture and decoration items alongside tools, books, seeds, bird houses, and gardening gadgets. To complete the experience, there's the café, where guests can enjoy rich brunches

and delicious cake under the tropical canopy inside the large greenhouse, or outside in the garden when the weather permits. Altensteinstr. 31. www.koenigliche-gartenakademie.de

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from furniture and design objects to books and toys. The owners spend much of their time traveling the world, bringing back the objects that best represent their personal style. The result is a mix of antique and ethnic furniture, traditionally woven rugs with colorful, modern designs, huge plants, and a general Wunderkammer feel. Schröderstr. 13. www.parkhausberlin.de

UND SAMPSON. KÖNIGLICHE GARTEN AKADEMIE: COURTESY OF MANUFACTUM; PARKHAUS: COURTESY OF PARKHAUS; LUIBAN: COURTESY OF LUIBAN.

Andreas Murkudis

WITH ALL MY HEART AND LIVER, TOO There are two categories of people in the world who will appreciate this unique butcher's shop: the meat-obsessed and the vegans. Wondering how Aufschnitt's owners managed to bring together such antipodal groups of individuals? It's easier than you think: All the meat cuts, sausages, w w w.wh ere t r ave l e r. com 11

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WHERE NOW | BEST SHOPS

Shop window at Ting

pork legs, and steaks are nothing but cushions. Ever dreamed of wrapping your baby in a blood-sausage-shaped breastfeeding pillow, or sleeping in the sweet embrace of a beef-steak beanbag? Offal fans can rest their tired backs on a pair of stuffed lungs or kidneys, and if their loved one's around, there's nothing as caring as offering him a soft and romantic anatomic heart headrest. Boxhagener Str. 32. www.aufschnitt.net KING OF CONCEPT SHOPS When Andreas Murkudis founded his store in 2003, high-end, curated shopping was just a budding idea in Berlin, but his concept soon became so popular that many imitators started popping up all over town. Housed in a huge, bright, post-industrial space in Potsdamer Straße, Andreas Murkudis carries a selection of chic and sleek fashion for men and women, both avant-garde and classic, and accessories like handbags and jewelry, cosmetics, tableware, and décor. Label names include famous brands like Céline, Dries van Noten, and Maison Margiela,

but also smaller manufacturers, which Murkudis likes to support. Potsdamer Str. 81E. www.andreasmurkudis.com THE BEST OF BOTH WORLDS Just off leafy Kollwitzplatz, design store Ting combines the sobriety of Scandinavian minimalism with the ethnic elegance of traditional Asian crafts, offering the best of all worlds. Browse through handpicked kitchenware, lamps, stationery, jewelry, and other accessories for the home, as well as towels with birch tree designs, pretty stool cushions, hexagonal place mats, and jewelry and vases by Messing, and take style notes for your next home redecoration. Rykestr. 41. www.ting-shop.com MUSICAL SUPERMARKET You don't have to be a seasoned musician to worship Just Music, a four-story emporium selling any musical device you can imagine, from cellos and guitars to electric violins and steel drums, metronomes, sheet music, and keyboards. In fact, you don't have to be a musician Paper goods at Luiban

Just Music

at all, as the store even sells earplugs and noise-canceling headphones for those who would like to reduce the music in their lives, or who simply fear for their ears when heading to Berghain. The kids' section has a lovely range of musical toys for all ages, and the store is filled with music-themed gadgets, the perfect gifts for your musicloving friends. Oranienstr. 140-142. www.justmusic.de ORIGAMI POETRY In the digital world we live in, paper has taken on a poetic significance, and concept stationery shop Luiban in Mitte intends to reawaken our love for the analog art of writing with a curated selection of notebooks, sketchbooks, letter paper, cards, and writing instruments, all from pen manufactory and stationery greats like KaWeCo and Le Typographe. From picture frames designed in Brooklyn, to sealing wax made in Bern and washi tape and origami paper from Japan, Luiban's products provide inspiration for our next writing and drawing adventures. Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 28.

LUIBAN: COURTESY OF LUIBAN; TING: COURTESY OF TING; JUST MUSIC: © ISTOCK; AUFSCHNITT: PHOTO BY AVID TAL.

The "meat" counter at Aufschnitt

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@ikksofficial - ikks.com

I K K S Wo m e n M e n B e r l i n Neue Schรถnhauser Strasse 16, 10178 Berlin + 493027908497

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bjects are what matter,” the iconic German-born blue jeans creator Levi Strauss once proclaimed. “Only they carry the evidence that throughout the centuries something really happened among human beings.” On International Museum Day this 18 May, the curators at Berlin’s 175 museums would likely agree that preserved objects tell a story. Yet these artifacts don’t only include famous works of art or scientific creations, but also everyday things, from the GDR’s famous Trabant Car to the now ubiquitous Currywurst sausage. Perhaps Berlin’s biggest testament to the cultural merits of our clutter is the Museum of Things (Oranienstr. 25, www.

museumderdinge.de), which displays 20,000 consumer objects largely from the 21th century, from the remote-controlsized flip-phones to then-normal Nazi kitchenware from the 1930s. One exhibit on the Frankfurt Kitchen, designed in 1926, showcases how a once-kitschy kitchen became a modern design prototype. For more insight into German culinary culture, I headed to the Currywurst Museum (Schützenstr. 70, www. currywurstmuseum.com). As a vegetarian, visiting an extensive exhibit about a spiced meat had not been on my to-do list. Yet I surprisingly enjoyed the museum, which is full of details of a divided Berlin. It describes, for example, how a food kiosk owner obtained curry spices from British soldiers for it in 1949, and how the product was popularized in both the East and West. The nearby Trabi Museum (Zimmerstr. 14-15, www.trabi-museum.com) feels like a GDR auto show, displaying the oncebeloved Beetle of the East. Auto fans will appreciate the nostalgic and colorful display of the cult cars and the history behind them. Manufactured for three decades starting in 1958, the Trabant had a reputation for being slow, clunky, and uncomfortable. Yet it was the most popular car in the GDR, and quickly came to symbolize the failed East German state after the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989. To experience more Ostalgia, Germans’ term for nostalgia for the GDR, I visited the tiny but comprehensive Museum of Unheard of Things (Crellestr. 5, www. museumderunerhoertendinge.de). Amid

its eclectic objects, I found special clocks and candles only made in the GDR and cult film paraphernalia. Among this chamber of curiosities, I viewed objects I indeed had never heard of before, such as a hybrid of an olive and an acorn, and a piece of petrified ice from the second ice age, ca. 800 million years ago. Such hidden treasures are also found en masse at the Designpanoptikum: Museum of Surreal Industrial Objects (Torstr. 201, www.designpanoptikum.com), which feels like walking through a strange Dali-esque dreamscape. The owner is always on hand to answer questions about the objects, which range from bizarre medical equipment to junkyard gems found only in Germany. I also took a further fun step back in time at the Computer Game Museum (Karl-MarxAllee 93A, www.computerspielemuseum. de), a hands-on museum playing homage to games throughout the ages that captured the imagination – when one needed a lot of imagination for them. Before the days of fancy special effects, guests lined up for three weeks in 1951 at the Berlin Industrial Show to play one of the world’s first

DESIGN PANOPTIKUM: COURTESY OF VLAD KARNEEV, THE DESIGN PANOPTIKUM; COMPUTERSPIELE MUSEUM: COURTESY OF COMPUTERSPIELEMUSEUM; CURRYWURST MUSEUM: COURTESY OF CURRYWURST MUSEUM.

Rachel Stern visits Berlin’s most unusual museums, which pay homage to the objects playing a strong symbolic role in the city’s history.

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UNUSUAL MUSEUMS | WHERE NOW

COURTESY OF COMPUTERSPIELEMUSEUM; CURRYWURST MUSEUM: COURTESY OF CURRYWURST MUSEUM.

Far left and this image: Design Panoptikum; Center: The Currywurst Museum; Below: The computerspielemuseum.

computer games, the Nimrod. Players took turns removing one object, with the goal of being the one to remove the last object. Paying homage to an icon revered in Berlin’s alternative music culture, the Ramones Museum (Oberbaumstr. 5, www. ramonesmuseum.com ) showcases the 22-year history of the New York punk band that produced a slew of catchy hits such as I Wanna Be Sedated and Blitzkrieg Bop. Music fans can browse through more than 300 objects from the punk rock masters, from boxers to vinyl album covers. Recently reopened in March at a new location in fittingly alternative Kreuzberg, the museum also hosts performances from local artists, linking Berlin’s pioneering past with its present.

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Squeezed in between two World Wars, the 1920s were exciting times – deserving a revisit by Annabelle Mallia.

magine big, rich men smoking great examples of the art scene of the cigars; daring cabaret shows with 1920s. Pay a visit to check out the works semi-naked dancers; Brecht's of German Expressionists Kirchner, Threepenny Opera, resounding in Pechstein, and Emil Nolde, who depicted the Berliner Ensemble theater; or the excesses of the era in all its shades. Marlene Dietrich in one of her elegant For more artistic expression from the outfits, singing at a Nollendorfplatz revue '20s, visit the Bauhaus Archiv (p. 38), theater. For Berlin, the 1920s were an which displays a collection of items age of excess. Stemming from a desire to from the Bauhaus school of design and reemerge and live after the devastation architecture. Its students broke away from of World War I, the Golden Twenties saw the tradition of fine arts and concentrated the blossoming of the city's cultural instead on geometric shapes and life and Berlin's elevation to the primary colors, creating status of Europe's nightlife products that could be easily capital. This cultural mass-produced for the prosperity came to an broader population. abrupt halt when Hitler In addition to the came to power, and numerous theaters and though Berlin's culture cinemas on Ku'damm, is now thriving once back in the day again, WWII destruction Wintergarten-Varieté and almost 50 years (p. 51) was a favorite of division mean that way to start a night out. not many traces of the It reopened again at the Bauhaus Archiv city's most legendary era beginning of the 1990s are to be found today. Here's as a homage to the original, where you can still get a glimpse of decked out in glamorous 1920s Berlin's 1920s: style with mirrored walls and red-velvet, During the city's heyday, Potsdamer now hosting nightly shows to revive the Platz was a bustling hotspot of fashion, old charm of vaudeville theater. Another music, and entertainment, comparable to venue inspired by those times is Sally London’s Trafalgar Square and New York’s Bowles (Eisenacher Str. 2, www.sallyTimes Square. The level of traffic through bowles.de), a stylish 1920s-themed café the square prompted the installation of and bar with regular jazz and cabaret Europe's first-ever traffic light. Completely performances. Named after a character razed by WWII air raids and then dormant from Christopher Isherwood's novel for almost 50 years as it lay in no-man's Goodbye Berlin, later adapted into the land by the Wall, the Platz has been rebuilt famous musical and film Cabaret, the to its former glory by modern architects, café embodies the decadent Schöneberg but still nods to its past with a replica nightlife of the time. To learn more about of the traffic signal, while the Deutsche Isherwood and the laissez-faire mood of Kinemathek (deutsche-kinemathek.de) at 1920s Schöneberg, join a walking tour the Sony Center houses Marlene Dietrich's with Cabaret Berlin, departing from U photo archive. Nollendorfplatz every Saturday at 11am. The Brücke Museum (p. 38) offers (www.cabaret-berlin.com)

From to: German Expressionism; Sally Bowles; Replica of the world's first traffic signal; Marlene Dietrich.

BAUHAUS ARCHIV: MARIANNE BRANDT TEE-EXTRAKT-KÄNNCHEN 1924. BAUHAUS-ARCHIV FOTO GUNTER LEPKOWSKI © VG-BILD-KUNST PAINTING AND TRAFFIC LIGHT TOWER: ISTOCK; SALLY BOWLES: COURTESY OF SALLY BOWLES. ; MARLENE DIETRICH: COURTESY OF DEUTSCHE KINEMATHEK.

WHERE NOW | THE GOLDEN TWENTIES

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Visit our BREE Stores in Berlin LP12 Mall of Berlin Leipziger Platz 12-13 10117 Berlin KaDeWe Tauentzienstr. 21-24 10789 Berlin Kurfürstendamm Kurfürstendamm 36 10719 Berlin shop online at bree.com

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SHOPPING | THE GUIDE

The grand interior of the Mall of Berlin. Inset, below: bag by Ta(u)sche.

Spring Showers The number of museums in Berlin is said to outweigh that of rainy days. Even so, come springtime Berlin does have the occasional sprinkle to keep it one of the greenest cities in Europe. But don’t let it put a damper on your sightseeing plans. Instead, stop in first at these shopping destinations to pick up some essentials. Umbrellas at Der Schirmmacher (Kieler Str. 6, www.schirmmitcharme.de), are made to last. Now part of a dying trade, owner Rolf Lippke and his family have been creating and repairing brollies for more than 130 years. From artsy prints to basic Berliner black reinforced with durable carbon fiber, you’ll soon be dancing in the rain. Now that your head's covered, let's protect your belongings from raindrops with the signature Berlin hipster messenger bag, perfect for this time of year. Check out the original eco-friendly concept from Swiss

company Freitag (Max-Beer-Str. 3, www. freitag.ch), making bags from used truck tarpaulins, discarded bicycle inner tubes, and seat belts, or lose yourself in the endless color combinations from MilkBerlin (Alte Schönhauser Str.13, www.milkberlin. com). For an ultra-contemporary look, pick the interchangeablefront-flap option from Ta(u)sche (Raumerstr. 8, www. tausche.com), made from tear-resistant, coated polyester fabric. Shopping malls are great when the weather is not. The newest one in town is the Mall of Berlin (p. 20), while another favorite is the designer concept mall Bikini Berlin (p. 19), with a view of the zoo. If commercial centers aren’t your thing, head to Mulackstraße, where local designers and their boutiques are lined up one after the other.

Check out designer vintage store Das Neue Schwarz (no. 38, www.dasneueschwarz.de) for a pre-loved spring coat. And for one of the last remaining food market halls from the 19th century, make your way to Markthalle Neun (Eisenbahnstr. 42-43, www. markthalleneun.de). Home to the Heidenpeters microbrewery and traditional Sironi bakery from Milan, they also host regular themed events and the popular Street Food Thursday event. On rainy days, sitting back with a good book or catching up on your travel journal writing is also in order. The freshly baked bagels at Shakespeare and Sons (Warschauerstr. 74, www.shakesbooks. de) draw as much of a crowd as the store’s extensive selection of English classics and bestsellers.

A little rain can have its bright side. Annabelle Mallia uses it as an excuse to go hit the shops.

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NUMBER ONE IN SHOPPING, LEISURE & ENTERTAINMENT IN BERLIN

where GUIDELINES

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Every effort is made to provide accurate and updated information. However, information may be subject to last minute changes, so it is always advisable to call ahead.

ALE X A AT ALE X AN D E R PL ATZ M O - SA 1 0 a m - 9p m O PEN O N SU N DAYS: FOO D COU RT AN D LEISU R E AR E A

INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS T: Telephone number S: S-Bahn, Above-ground train system U: U-Bahn, Underground train system

SUNDAY SHOPPING: 07.05. | 1 PM - 6 PM

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 55-57.

18 0 S H O PS FA S H IO N , ACCESS O R IE S , E LEC TR O N IC S , BO O KS & MUCH M ORE S H O P P IN G

OPENING HOURS Opening hours may vary, so it’s best to call ahead. Shops are open Mon–Sat only, and Sunday shopping is only possible on certain Sundays of the year. This year, these are: 7 May, 3 September, 1 October, 5 November, 3 December, 17 December. Groceries can be bought on Sundays at major train stations (Hauptbahnhof, Friedrichstraße, at Ullrich at Zoologischer Garten, or Ostbahnhof ). Shopping malls are open 10am–8pm and smaller stores only until 6pm. TOURIST INFORMATION VisitBerlin is the official source of information on the city. Call T: 030.25002333 for specific Berlin information, or go to www.visitberlin.de for details on all information centers, events, and sights. Tourist Info Points: Brandenburg Gate – Pariser Platz, daily 9:30am–6pm (until 7pm in summer). Hauptbahnhof – Europaplatz 1, Level 0, daily 8am–9pm. TV Tower Alexanderplatz – Panoramastr. 1a, daily 10am–4pm.

DEPARTMENT STORES & MALLS Alexa

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Make it yours.

Selected shops for the savvy shopper

Hardcore shoppers love this mall for its sheer size, with over 180 stores spread over five levels. Highstreet retailers are well represented, and a large food court obliges when hunger overwhelms your desire to shop. www.alexacentre.com. Grunerstr. 20. T: 030.269340121. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

BIKINI BERLIN BIKINI BERLIN combines the shopping with a fun and relaxing experience. The historical building complex in Berlin's west end makes for interesting strolls, also offering beautiful views of the Berlin zoo and its animals, which can be admired both from indoors as well as from the rooftop terrace. But the main attraction is the curated selection of shops, which include individual pop-up boxes frquently showcasing new designers, popular brands, and many design stores. www.bikiniberlin. de. Budapester Str. 38-50. T: 030.55496455. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Designer Outlet Berlin Your favorite designer brands with discounts up to 70 percent, at just 30 minutes from the city center. Also features cafes and restaurants, a children’s play area, free parking and more that 100 international brands. Shuttle bus from center on Fri-Sat. Bring a copy of Where Berlin to the office and get a further 10% off. Mon–Thu 10am–7pm, Fri and Sat to 8pm. www.designeroutletberlin.com. Alter Spandauer Weg 1. T: 033234.9040. Take the regional train to Elstal. Off Map

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SHOPPING Europa Center This shopping mall on the Ku’damm offers a range of goods from over 70 shops. Check out the ingenious water clock designed by Bernard Gitton in 1982. www.europa-center-berlin.de. Tauentzienstr. 9–12. T: 030.26497940. U Kurfürstendamm, U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Galeria Kaufhof The former East German department store, renovated in 2006, showcases more than 600 exclusive brands and an exquisite gourmet section covering 35,000sq.m (377,000sq.ft) of space. www.galeria-kaufhof.de. Alexanderplatz 9. T: 030.247430. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Galeries Lafayette The Berlin branch of the exclusive Parisian department store is developed around an extraordinary glass cone. The three circular floors rise up around this centerpiece, packed with perfumes, clothing, and accessories. The food counter offers a wide range of French specialties and there’s a corner selling teas from the famed French tea house Mariage Frères. www.galerieslafayette.de. Friedrichstr. 76–78. T: 030.209480. U Französische Straße. E3

Kaufhaus des Westens (KaDeWe) The biggest and oldest department store in Germany sells only products of the highest quality. If you're short on time, the legendary gourmet food hall on the sixth floor is not to be missed. www.kadewe.de. Tauentzienstr. 21–24. T: 030.21210. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Mall of Berlin 270 shops, 270 apartments, gyms, and pedestrian areas define the new Mall of Berlin on Leipziger

Italian Allure With fresh floral patterns, white lace, and a trendy black look, Liu Jo brings a whole new air to the Berlin spring. The Italian fashion brand brings large doses of femininity and seduction to the urban woman, each garment featuring charming details and irresistible designs. Visit the store at Mall of Berlin (this page).

Platz, a world of shopping opportunities a stone’s throw from the city’s main tourist attractions. www.mallofberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 12. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Potsdamer Platz Arkaden This large shopping center offers more than 120 shops over three floors, stocking everything from clothes and accessories to electronics and groceries. Its restaurants and bars, both inside and in surrounding streets, also make it a very popular meeting spot. www.potsdamer-platzarkaden.de. Alte Potsdamer Str. 7. T: 030.2559270. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

CONCEPT STORES Herrlich

FASHION Annette Görtz Inspired by geometric lines and the use of "noncolors" such as black, beige, white, and gray, fashion brand Annette Görtz combines comfort with understated elegance. www.annettegoertz. com. T: 030 20074613. Markgrafenstr. 42. U Stadtmitte. E3

Beatrice von Tresckow

Sumptuous, elegant, somewhat extravagant. Beatrice Von Tresckow women's clothes are lively and colorful, an eye-catching addition to any wardrobe. www.beatricevontresckow.com, Leibnizstr. 60. T: 030 308318. U Adenauer Platz. C4 The quiet Suarezstraße

in Charlottenburg is the place to go for antiques.

Germany’s first concept store for men’s gifts offers unique trinkets that beat socks any day, from an old-fashioned brush-and-blade shaving set to a miniature espresso machine for en route. www.herrlich-berlin.de. Bergmannstr. 2. T: 030.7845395. U Gneisenaustraße. E5

Manufactum Their catalogue enjoys an almost cult-like status for its German language prowess, but better still is to visit the store itself. They collect mainly household and garden goods made with traditional manufacturing methods and materials. www.manufactum.de. See website for other locations. Hardenbergstr. 4. T: 030.24033844. U Ernst-Reuter-Platz. B3

Boggi Milano

Italian elegance for men. Specializes in high-quality suits that are formal while also remaining comfortable, and also carries a sport casual collection. www.boggi.com. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BOSS The German luxury fashion brand is synonymous with elegance and caters to men, women and kids. www.hugoboss.com. BOSS: Kurfürstendamm 25. T: 030.88624614. U Kurfürstendamm. C4; BOSS: Friedrichstr. 165. T: 030.20613890. U Französische Straße. E3; HUGO: Rosenthaler Str. 49. T: 030.28884550. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2; BOSS: Mall of Berlin. U Mohrenstraße. E3

By Anne By Anne offers designer fashion from sought-after European labels such as cool Danish brand NÜ, Beate Heymann Street Couture, playful Spanish label Uno Piu Uno, and bags from By Lou Lou, together with other accessories to complement your new outfit. Unique art pieces are also on sale to help you express your individuality in the home or garden. www.byanne.de. Rosenthaler Str. 31. T: 030.28879436. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Cinque Exquisite elegance for men and women defines this label, whose products are inspired by the Italian lifestyle and Mediterranean views. www.cinque.de. Rochstr. 1. T: 030.28099999. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Cotélac The French just have that certain je ne sais quoi when it comes to style. Laid-back, breezy, comfortable, and nonetheless elegant, the Cotélac collections capture that quintessential French style in clothing and accessories for both women and men. Brand hallmarks are fine fabrics, subtle details and unique prints created with special dye and fabric techniques. Mulackstr. 6. T: 030 53604074. www.cotelac.fr. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2 This boutique in Mitte offers selected designer fashion, shoes, and accessories for men and ladies at up to 50 percent off. There are more than 30 international labels such as Calvin Klein, Iceberg, Roberto Cavalli, and Valentino. www.designerdepot.net. Rochstr. 2. T: 030.28046700. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Finn's Mode This tiny store near Savignyplatz stocks a large variety of fashion items with a personality, for

COURTESY OF LIU JO.

designer depot

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Frosch & Königin This fairytale store is filled with beautiful things – fashion from 0039 Italy, jewelry by Nicola Hinrichsen, and Day Birger Mikkelsen home accessories, to name just a few. For the woman who has kissed a lot of frogs but still believes in the big love. www.froschundkoenigin.de. Rochstr. 16. T: 030 28873734. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Ganni Berlin Founded in Copenhagen, Ganni carries easy-towear pieces for women with an attitude who like to mix things up. Elegant and effortless clothing, lingerie, accessories, and shoes. www.ganni.com. Alte Schönhauser Str. 6. T: 030.27590966. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Goldsteg Designer Outlet This outlet store carries one-of-a-kind fashion pieces, exciting accessories and high-quality Italian leather bags by a wide range of designers. www.goldsteg.de. Carmerstr. 8. T: 030 51307933. S Savignyplatz. B4

Michael Kors The New York-based designer Michael Kors is known for his ready-to-wear fashion and luxury accessories – bags, watches, jewelry, shoes, and other award-winning designs. www.michaelkors. com. Kurfürstendamm 219. T: 030.81825760. U Uhlandstraße. C4; Rosenthaler Str. 37. T: 030.24088690. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

MaxMara

Selected shops for the savvy shopper

One of the oldest and most prestigious Italian fashion houses, known for its quality craftsmanship and ready-to-wear clothing. www.maxmara.com. Friedrichstr. 184, T: 030.20074945. U Stadtmitte. E3; Kurfürstendamm 178. T: 030.8852545. U Adenauerplatz. B4

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Michael Sontag The Berlin designer sets himself apart with his masterful draping techniques, creating simple yet flattering feminine silhouettes out of flowing fabrics with equal measures of elegance and sex appeal. www.michaelsontag.com. Muskauer Str. 41. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

Patrick Hellmann Among the most successful luxury brands in the fashion world, Patrick Hellmann stands for timelessness, elegant designs, quality materials, and extravagant details. There are also clothes by Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior, and Dolce & Gabbana. www.patrick-hellmann.com. Kurfürstendamm 190–192. T: 030.88487711. U Adenauerplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

Planet Berlin Described as "luxury with a touch of rock and roll," the store will have you decked out for your next glamorous night of clubbing. They stock classic labels such as Converse and Dr. Martens, as well as new labels like Japan Rags, whose jeans for both men and women have already achieved cult status. www.planetwear.de. Schlüterstr. 35. T: 030 8852717. S Savignyplatz. B4

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women "who know who they are and like to dress well." Brands include Piazza Sempione, Zenggi, Cambio, Le Tricot Perugia, and more, and the selection ranges from dresses and skirts to accessories like shoes and bags. www.finns-mode. de. Bleibtreustraße 47. T: 030.8832202. U Uhlandstraße B4

Berlin wheretraveler.com

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SHOPPING highest quality standards to its collection of shoes, handbags and accessories. Browse the shelves for contemporary, comfortable looks for everyday wear or elegant heels. Email: bagattberlino@gmail. com. Bikini Berlin: Budapester Str. 38–50. T: 030 25759777. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Boots & Shoes With their air-cushioned sole, lace-up style, and yellow stitching, the popular Doc Martens boots launched in the UK in 1960 wasc based on a prototype by German army doctor Klaus Märtens. Check out many designs and colors of the famous boots at Boots & Shoes, from the classic 1460 model, to shiny blue, or floral print. Ballerinas, booties, clothing, and accessories round off the offering. www.drmartens.com. Dircksenstr. 49. T: 0800.2070700. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Falke Flagship Store

Understated Appeal Annette Görtz’s fashion is never audacious. Clean cuts, geometric lines, and unobtrusive colors such as black, beige, gray, and white are characteristic features of all her creations, all of which are made with high-quality, natural textiles. Elements such as embroidered roses, stripes, and a creative use of materials add that extra individual touch. A perfect mix between comfortable sensuality and understated elegance, this German fashion brand enjoys international appeal. Markgrafenstr. 42. T: 030 20074613. www.annettegoertz.de

Strellson This Swiss company creates fashion for men who are on their way up or, as they say, for young men with big plans. Concentrating on clarity, the Strellson philosophy is based on clear cuts and top quality for their suits and other urban wears, as well as transparent values and work attitudes. www.strellson.com. Münzstr. 8. T: 030.24724042. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Rebecca Store With a unique boudoir atmosphere, this concept store is a harmonious medley of European and American designers, including Yigal Azrouel, Vera Wang, and Gas Bijoux. All items are personally selected by owner Rebecca Zehden on her many trips abroad. www.rebecca-berlin.de. Alte Schönhauser Str. 41. T: 030 34620780. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Talbot Runhof Designers Johnny Talbot and Adrian Runhof launched their label in Munich but have since gone global, branching out from glamorous evening gowns into everyday outfits and accessories. Discover the comprehensive range of dresses, separates, and knitwear, plus shoes and accessories in their Charlottenburg boutique. A brand hallmark is the complex, precise cuts and unusual seam placement used to create feminine, flattering silhouettes. Schlüterstr. 50. T: 030 23363170. www.talbotrunhof.com. U Uhlandstraße, S Savignyplatz. B4

UNIQLO Originally a chain of roadside stores in suburban Japan, this brand quickly became an Asian sensation and has now expanded to trendy urban hubs around the globe. Their Berlin flagship store has three floors of quality basics and fashion for women, men, and children. www.uniqlo.com. Tauentzienstr. 7. T: 030 29028260.

U Wittenbergplatz. C4; Leipziger Platz 16. S+U Potsdamer Platz. E3; Rosenthaler Str. 42; S Hackescher Markt. F3

Wormland This men’s boutique carries the best German and international brands, catering to a demanding man and offering a variety of styles, from classy to casual, from business to sporty. Brands include Calvin Klein, Black Kaviar, Lee Jeans, and Hugo Boss. www.wormland.de. Mall of Berlin. Direct entrance from Voßstraße. T: 030.229088200. U Mohrenstraße. E3

SHOES & ACCESSORIES AIGNER The Munich label is one of Germany’s most important leather accessory brands, combining tradition and innovation with luxury classics. Choose between handbags, belts, and luxury travel luggage, as well as gift items such as corkscrews, keyrings and backgammon boxes. www.aignermunich.com. Kurfürstendamm 50. T: 030.88683638. U Uhlandstraße. B4

bagatt Milano Bagatt epitomizes the appreciation for beauty for which Italy is known. With its core philosophy of fine Italian craftsmanship, bagatt Milano applies the

This legwear shop caters to both men and women with all kinds of socks, stockings, tights, knee-highs, and anything that will keep your legs warm. They also have a good selection of sports accessories and knitwear, as well as delightful kids’ socks. www.falke.com. Kurfürstendamm 36. T: 030.88553565. U Uhlandstraße. B4; Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Str. 12. T: 030.20647995. U Mohrenstraße. E3

MCM Mode Creation Munich crafts luxury leather goods, handbags, apparel, footwear, and accessories. www.mcmworldwide.com. Quartier 206, Friedrichstr. 71. T: 030.20946500. U Französische Straße. E3; Kurfürstendamm 186. T: 030.8811104. U Uhlandstraße. B4; Rosenthaler Str. 38. T: 030.28493793. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

New Era Flagship Store Looking for a new cap? This is the largest and fastest growing headwear producer in the world. There are more than 1000 styles over two floors, ranging from the classic baseball cap to modern designs, including their bestseller 59fifty, popular with the skater and hip hop crowd. www.neweracap.com. An der Spandauer Brücke 7. T: 030.27890578. Hackescher Markt. F2

Unützer Elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacturing are what sets Unützer apart from many other shoe brands. Founded 25 years ago, this shoe label stands for elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacture. The boots, pumps, and ballerinas are all made in a small town near Venice according to the century-old Italian tradition. www. unuetzer.com. Giesebrechtstr. 10. T: 030.88916710. U Uhlandstraße. C4 The season's bright range of nail hues from Catherine Nail Salon (p. 25)

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SHOPPING

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Bicycle Culture The best way to explore Berlin is by bike. Claudia Koksch picked the perfect outfit for a stylish ride.

1. Sunglasses by MYKITA, Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 6. 2. Sweater by Closed, Bikini Berlin, Budapester Str. 38-50. 3. Jeans by Guess, Potsdamer Platz Arkaden, Alte Potsdamer Str. 7 and Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12. 4. Bicycle by VANMOOF, Schliemannstr. 23A. 5. Backpack by Property of..., KaDeWe, Tauentzienstr. 21–24. 6. Shoes by Navyboot KaDeWe, Tauentzienstr. 21–24, Friedrichstr. 81, and Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12. 7. Jumpsuit by 0039 Italy, Schlüterstr. 51. 8. Hat by Liebeskind Berlin, Alexa, Grunerstr. 20. 9. Water bottle by Dopper, www.dopper.com.

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The success story of Volker Lang started in 1983 in Hamburg, when he designed his first handbag. A functional, pure look with playful details define his style, resulting in timeless purses, handbags, and other accessories loved by their owners for years and beyond the dictates of fashion. Mulackstr. 37. T: 030.284937004. www.volker-lang-accessoires.de. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

JEWELRY & WATCHES Aris Diamond Since 1906, ARIS has been specializing in diamond jewelry, delivering everything from pendants, necklaces, and earrings, to fabulous engagement rings. Got a special occasion coming up? Check up their new shop in the Mall of Berlin for refined pieces. www.arisdiamond.com. www.mallofberlin. de. Leipziger Platz 12. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Bodo Dilg Goldschmiede A master in the jewelry field, Bodo Dilg creates unique pieces of contemporary jewelry using gold and precious stones against a backdrop of historical stucco and cement tiles. An essential stop for soon to wed partners. www.bodo-dilg.de. Grolmanstr. 30/31. T: 030 88675355. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Chopard Jewelry and watches loved by celebrities. This luxury jewelry brand combines Swiss perfection with timeless style for the elite. www.chopard.com. Kurfürstendamm. 186/187. T: 030.70096980. U Adenauer Platz. B4 KaDeWe, Tauentzienstr. 21-24. T: 030.206039830. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

ROLEX Boutique One of the most famous brands in luxury, Rolex has been making wristwatches since 1905. First created in England, the company soon moved to Switzerland, and its perfect timepieces are

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Liu Jo, Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12.

Volker Lang

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recognized worldwide as the ultimate symbol of elegance and refinement. www.rolex.de. www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.55669010. U Uhlandstraße. E2

Wempe One of the oldest family businesses in Germany is renowned for its passion for fine jewelry and watches, and in particular for its precision timepieces and attention to detail. www.wempe. de. Kurfürstendamm 215. See website for more locations. T: 030.8826878. U Uhlandstraße. C4; Friedrichstr. 82. T: 030.20399920. U Französische Straße. E3

HOME DÉCOR Home on Earth Located in the historical Hackesche Höfe, this store offers home décor items made from natural materials combined with Scandinavian design. Founded by a German-Danish pair in Barcelona, this is the first store to hit Germany. www.homeonearth.com. Hackesche Höfe/Hof V, Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. T: 030 2834354. S Hackescher Markt F2

Promobo Many of the fun offbeat, eye-catching design objects, such as jewelry, handbags, and gifts are made by hand in small workshops around Germany, using plenty of recycled materials like bike inner tubes and cork. www.promobo.de. Rosenthalerstr. 40–41, Hackesche Höfe 3 & 5. S Hackescher Markt. F2

Pylones These household products are created to add a spark to our daily lives, filling it with color and fun. The designers choose zoomorphic themes. www.pylones.com. Kurfürstendamm 225 (check website for other store locations). T: 030.92362488. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

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Yves Delorme Add a Parisian touch to your home with a brand-new set of linens by Yves Delorme, specializing in fine textiles since 1845. The collection includes bed and bath lines as well as exquisite tableware and baby items for the everyday and special occasion alike. www.yvesdelormeparis.com. Kurfürstendamm 51. T: 030.88724777. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

BEAUTY & WELLNESS Catherine Nail Salon The popular Catherine nailcare brand now has a nail salon here in Berlin. Stop by or make an appointment for some grooming time between shopping and sightseeing. www.catherine-berlin.de. Knesebeck Str. 35. T: 030. 55214475. U Uhlandstraße. E3

Frau Tonis Parfum The perfume boutique offers scents inspired by the city, like Pure Violet, originally composed for Marlene Dietrich. Take a scent test to find the fragrances that suit you best or ask customize your own bottle. www.frau-tonis-parfum.com. Zimmerstr. 13. T: 030.20215310. U Kochstraße. E4

Parfumsalon An exclusive perfume boutique that has been offering fragrances for more than five decades. The shop's selection include rarities and special aromas, all hand-picked by owner and perfume expert Mario Worms. www.parfumsalon.de. Uhlandstr. 173-174. T: 030.8827306. E3

FOOD & GOURMET Fassbender & Rausch Berlin’s undisputed temple of confections features the world's longest chocolate counter and eyepopping sculptures, such as a model Reichstag made from 300kg (660lb) of dark chocolate. www.fassbender-rausch.de. Charlottenstr. 60. T: 030.20458443. U Stadtmitte. E3 www.wheretraveler.com 25

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www.bikiniberlin.de

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Eu nter rn Ce Satu UNIQLO s Bu l NTZ Yvecher ffa Kurfürstendamm sigua Ap IEN Ro e BO lo ple S D T K R S a i Shoe City A r S Ba Sto stad SSE sk rbo re t M KP rov iser Wittenbergur AM Kä M wa nhe etton D S Be N t he W platz rlin STE Py Sen Ben NIEBUHRSTR. ohlf lone GO FÜR ahrt LEtore EN e s KUR M S S W Uhlandstraße IS e e FALKE TOM ichae Talbot Runhof BR MmE KaDDeW MY l Kor EE i Ka AIGNER S s HIL Wem MOMMSENSTR. teiff F L I G p A Po ER MOMMSENSTR. van COS e rs B Laa TE Ren che D uche Tumi ck Yves Saint Laurent BCBG rer esi éL M g e A Louis Vuitton Lag zar n XA MM erfe d ZR Augsburger Str. Hermès NDA ld Q Parfu IA 208 msa RSTE Ro Ch Ü F B Bo s R lon op ally ent U Val tte K GIE B a hal erlin e r ga SE SØR E Ven ntino d BR Ma SCA eta EC uri DA Bu HT Milano BOGGI c l eL ST ga D acr ri TR. Jens Richard R. oi Jil S olce & RGER S Gucci x LIETZENBU and Ga b Bu er ban MM rbe ENDA a rry Cartier | Campbell | Chanel ÜRST M KURF Ele axM na Adenauer- Pal Mulberry ara M Z MCM | PRADA ile platz ri iro Ermenegildo Zegna ROLEX Boutique

latz Savignyp

SHOP STOP

ROLEX BOUTIQUE

PARFUMSALON

MICHAEL KORS

More than a century of precision craftsmanship comes to the Ku'damm in the form of Germany's first Rolex Boutique. The flagship store offers a distinctive experience, including an exclusive setting and world-class service.

This exclusive perfume boutique has been offering extraordinary fragrances since the 1960s. Mario Worms is an expert in perfume counseling, offering advice on the perfect scent for every client, and the shop's selection includes rare bottles and unusual aromas. Uhlandstr. 173-174. T: 030 8827306 www.parfumsalon.de

Michael Kors is a world-renowned designer of luxury accessories and ready-to-wear, offering a lifestyle for the consummate jet setter that is as sophisticated as it is indulgent and as glamorous as it is modern. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. Kurfürstendamm 219. T: 030 81825760 www.michaelkors.com

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schlüterstraße 50 // 10629 berlin // www.talbotrunhof.com

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Knesebeckstr. 35-37. T: 030 55214475 www.catherine-berlin.de

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Uhlandstraße Papeterie Caran D‘ache Catherine Nail Salon

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Schlüterstr. 35. T: 030 8852717 SHOP STOP

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Niessing Berlin

STRASSE Rahaus Living Margulies Jeannette Junior ROCKS & ROCKS

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Beatrice Planet Berlin von Tresckow

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Set yourself apart from the crowd with fashion and accessories from Planet Berlin, described as "luxury with a touch of rock and roll." They stock classic labels such as Converse and Dr Marten's, as well as new labels like le temps des cerises, whose male and female jeans have already achieved cult status. Get ready for your next glamorous night of clubbing.

Schuhtick Savignyplatz

Zeppelin Mode Goldsteg

Cimp Schmuckdesign Paper & Tea KANTSTRASSE

PLANET BERLIN

Zoologisch er Garten

GOETHESTR.

SHOP STOP

Make a good first impression with beautifully manicured hands. This hotspot for hand and nail cosmetics hinges upon expert beauticians and top-quality products from the Catherine Nail Collection. Delivering to beauty salons worldwide, the brand is renowned in nail design and presents their selection now in their own studio just off Berlin’s luxury shopping strip, the Ku’damm.

UHLANDSTR.

Bleibtreustr. 13. T: 030 88678578 www.meyerundnehls.de

CATHERINE NAIL SALON

SCHLÜTERSTR.

Spoil yourself at this intimate boutique. Geared towards self-confident, independent women, Meyer & Nehls stocks unique pieces for that special occasion, as well as business and casual attire. If you are looking for fashion advice, owners and style experts Lars and Frank Nehls are there to help.

Marooush LIETZENBURG

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UNÜTZER

Elegance, clarity in design, and top-quality manufacturing are what sets Unützer apart from many other shoe brands. Founded 25 years ago, this shoe label quickly earned international fame thanks to the excellent quality of its products, which are made in a small town near Venice according to the century-old Italian tradition.

TALBOT RUNHOF Designers Johnny Talbot and Adrian Runhof launched their label in Munich but have since gone global, branching out from glamorous evening gowns into everyday outfits from dresses, separates, and knitwear to shoes and accessories. Complex, precise cuts create feminine, flattering silhouettes.

Schlüterstr. 50. T: 030 23363170 www.talbotrunhof.com

Gold chains, tassels, and striking colors are some of the shoes’ decorative elements, and materials include the whole range of luxury, from the finest calf leather to exotic skins, including crocodile and ostrich, all personally selected by Fritz Unützer himself. Walk into the Charlottenburg boutique, and try on a pair of boots, pumps, or ballerinas, all perfect accessories to any glamorous and feminine outfit.

Giesebrechtstr. 10/corner Kurfürstendamm. T: 030 88916710 www.unuetzer.com

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Checkpoint Charlie Frau Tonis Parfum

The exclusive Parisian department store brings French charm to Berlin with five floors of fashion, accessories, beauty products and delicacies. Galeries Lafayette is located in the Quartier 207, where you can shop at Butlers, Cashmere House, Le Nails, Le Tanneur, Manon Chocolaterie, Max&Co, Opera´s, and Sathea.

Friedrichstr. 76–78. T: 030 209480. galerieslafayette.de SHOP STOP

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Inspired by geometric lines and the use of "non-colors" such as black, beige, white, and gray, fashion brand Annette Görtz combines comfort with understated elegance, also adding elements such as embroidered roses and stripes for that extra individual touch. Markgrafenstr. 42. T: 030 20074613 www.annettegoertz.com

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FRAU TONIS PARFUM This perfume manufactory has been described as Berlin’s most unique perfumery. Try classics such as Linde Berlin, or Pure Violet, Marlene Dietrich’s favorite fragrance. For something more personal, join other scent aficionados from all over the world and create your own, private perfume. Zimmerstr. 13 (Checkpoint Charlie). T: 030 20215310 www.frau-tonis-parfum.com www.wheretraveler.com 29

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SHOPPING MAPS COS

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Taschenparadies

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Hollister

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Dogo Shoes

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Calvin Klein Jeans

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SHOE CITY

Vans

Airfield

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Kingz

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Oakley

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G-Star Raw

Clarks Ecco

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Sunglass Hut

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...and the biggest Foodhall.

Wigglesteps WORMLAND

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IMAGE © THINKSTOCK

Selected shops for the Savvy Shopper ®

Berlin

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A PLACE FOR SHOPPING ARKADEN SHOPS geöffnet Mo.–Sa., 10–21 Uhr POTSDAMERPLATZ.DE

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COTÉLAC The French have that certain je ne sais quoi when it comes to style. Laid-back, breezy, comfortable, and nonetheless elegant, the Cotélac collections are created by Raphaëlle Cavalli and capture that quintessential French style in clothing and accessories for both women and men. Brand hallmarks are special dyes and folding techniques, inlays, unique prints, and exquisite detail when it comes to treating fabrics.

www.cotelac.fr

With over 100 boutiques in France and abroad, you can check out the latest Spring-Summer 2017 collection in their store on Mulackstraße, Berlin’s so-called designer central.

Mulackstr. 6. T: 030 53604074 www.cotelac.fr

SHOP STOP

NEW ERA FLAGSHIP STORE Looking for a new cap? The world's leading headwear brand is now the official headwear of the NBA. Check out the latest New Era NBA collection at the New Era store in Berlin.

An der Spandauer Brücke 7. T: 030 27890578 de.neweracap.eu

HACKESCHER MARKT AND MITTE

Modomoto Atelier Einhundert

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Alte Schönhauser Str. 41. T: 030 34620780 www.rebecca-berlin.de SHOP STOP

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With a unique boudoir atmosphere, this concept store is a harmonious medley of European and American designers, including Alexander Wang, Vera Wang, Tibi and Alice+Olivia, and all items are personally selected by owner Rebecca Zehden on her many trips abroad.

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Lala Berlin Rosa-Luxemburg Platz Wolfen Germany Boutique Ganni Berlin E S S A M R V T ULAC OLKE S T S U K Cotélac R LA S AUG Greta NG S TRASSE tore & Luis Ka STE tje INS Trippen TRA sC SSE afé GIPSS Gr TRAS SE ün Onitsuka L REBECCA HIRT O i Be eb SOP ENS Bimba y Lola n S es hr HIE TRA he kin NST SSE Weinmeisterstr. Freitag RAS rman d 11 SE Trüffelschwein Ma Wrangler vi Oakley Promobo Porsche Design Blush Lingerie MÜ Michael Kors N ZST MÜHLE Store Berlin Ad MCM RA Strellson ida SSE Gretchen Store W Anine Bing s B Dr IK ee Home on earth UGGuffa ykor KS kda designer depot l n y UN Pop o Hackesche Höfe IQ -up Boots & Shoes LO Mykita Volution Sports KSENSTRASSE Riccardo Cartillone DIRC MO Frosch & Königin NB IJO New Era Flagship Store UP L. SE Hackescher Markt TRAS S H C RO Onepiece Concept Store

SHOP STOP

HOME ON EARTH

VOLKER LANG STORE

DESIGNER DEPOT

Barcelona-founded Home on Earth offers products combining sustainability and Nordic design, each produced without wasting any resources. Using almost exclusively natural materials such as bamboo, wool, coconut, mango and hemp. The store opened its first branch in Germany in December 2015.

Accessory heaven in Mulackstraße. The brand VOLKER LANG has been known for more than 30 years for its colorful leather accessories. The Berlin branch opened on Mulackstraße in 2009 and has been showcasing the label's renowned waiter wallets and leather bags ever since. Mon–Fri 12pm–7pm, Sat 11:30am–6:30pm.

Since 2002, this fashion outlet boutique has been offering high class fashion and accessories from major international labels at up to 50% off the original price. Check out their selection, which ranges from unique pieces to dressy garments. Tax Free available.

Hackesche Höfe/Hof V, Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. www.homeonearth.com

Mulackstr. 37. T: 030 28493704 www.volkerlang.de

Rochstrasse 2. T: 030 28046700 www.facebook.com/ddmitte www.designer-depot.net

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LOS ANGELES 34° 3’N 118° 15’W

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SIGHTSEEING | THE GUIDE

Last Stop The political situation in Berlin between WWII and the end of the Cold War in 1989 meant the redevelopment and utilization of many areas, including train depots, was put on hold until Berlin could take its place as capital once more. Some of these locations have now been converted into fantastic public spaces. At the former railway yard Naturpark Südgelände Schoneberg (S Priesterweg), more than four decades of neglect allowed flora around the tracks to grow into wild urban woodland. Abandoned due to reduced train services in the West (governed by the Reichsbahn sitting in the East), it is today one of the first officially conserved urban-industrial nature sites. A fascinating mix of nature, relics of the steam train era, and art, the park has paths and elevated bridges following the course of the old railway tracks, and a former locomotive hall now displaying works from experimental artists. There is also an

open-air stage featuring theater performances under the stars. Park am Gleisdreieck (U Gleisdreieck) is another example of abandoned train tracks overgrown by wilderness. A former railway hub, it became an industrial wasteland after

WWII and lay dormant for decades before being redeveloped into an urban park. The 26-hectare site, stretching along the western fringe of Kreuzberg, is an inner-city recreational oasis, offering walking and jogging paths, skate ramps, numerous playgrounds, and plenty of green meadows for picnickers and sports enthusiasts. Some of the old signaling and railway facilities remain, providing a distinctive flair and glimpse into the park’s origins. Instead of nature, expect graffiti-tarnished grounds and derelict buildings at the RAW Gelände (S+U Warschauer Straße). Founded in 1867 as a train repair station (ReichsbahnAusbesserungs-Werk), it has been converted into a thriving, alternative cultural project. There is the Sunday flea market, a bunker turned climbing wall, and an indoor skating hall, along with bars and music venues to keep you partying until the crack of dawn, when the city trains start up again to take you home.

COURTESY OF GRÜN BERLIN, WWW.GREENBERLIN.DE; RAILWAY TRACKS: © ISTOCK.

What do a nature site, public park, and party venue all have in common? Annabelle Mallia discovers the answer is trains.

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COURTESY OF GRÜN BERLIN, WWW.GREENBERLIN.DE; RAILWAY TRACKS: © ISTOCK.

MAJOR SIGHTS The “Alex” TV Tower The 368m- (1027ft)-high TV tower of Alexanderplatz can be seen from almost any point in the city and has been iconic of Berlin ever since it was built by the GDR in 1969. The giant steel-clad sphere atop houses a revolving restaurant and café as well as a viewing platform. The elevator ride lasts 40 seconds. Arrive early to avoid lines. Daily 9am–midnight (Nov–Feb from 10am). €13/8.50. www.tv-turm.de. Panoramastr. 1a. T: 030.24757537. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Brandenburg Gate MUST SEE The definitive Berlin icon, Carl Gotthard

GERMAN SPY MUSEUM

Langhans’ Neoclassical triumphal arch has witnessed the city’s best and worst moments, from the military parades of the Third Reich to the Wall being raised and torn down. Formerly behind GDR borders, today the gate acts mainly as the backdrop for festivals, New Year’s Eve parties, and tourist snapshots. U Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3

Charlottenburg Palace The summer home of Sophie Charlotte, wife of King Friedrich I of Prussia, reflects the grandeur of the Hohenzollern family. Begun in 1695, the luxury Baroque complex consists of a main building with a central cupola and two side wings, added in later years, that enclose a courtyard. The picturesque park surrounding the castle includes a formal French-style garden, English garden with pond and statues, belvedere, and mausoleum. The castle hosts temporary art and history exhibitions. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm). €12/8. www.spsg.de. Spandauer Damm 20-24. T: 030.9694200. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Hackesche Höfe An intricate series of interconnected courtyards provides an example of early-19th-century German Secessionist style. The first courtyard is entirely decorated with glazed blue-and-white tiles in geometric designs, while the apartment buildings and narrow, maze-like alleys lined with cafés, shops, and theaters give the Höfe an atmosphere both familiar and fascinating. Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. S Hackescher Markt. E2/F2

Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche The church’s bombed-out bell tower has been an anti-war memorial and symbol of West Berlin ever since its ruins were restored to their present state in 1957. The old church now hosts an exhibition of before-and-after photos documenting its and Ku'damm's former splendor. Inside, look up to admire what remains of the old mosaic. Daily 9am–7pm. www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. Breitscheidplatz. T: 030.2185023. U Zoologischer Garten, Kurfürstendamm. C4

»Interactive and kid-friendly« Chicago Tribune

A thrilling journey through the history of espionage

Nikolaiviertel and Knoblauchhaus The Nikolaiviertel is where Berlin was born, and the area still retains its ancient character, although most of the buildings in the narrow medieval alleys are replicas of destroyed originals that dated back to the 1200s. The late-Gothic Nikolaikirche, Berlin’s oldest surviving building, is now a museum. Other points of interest include the Ephraim Palais Museum and the Biedermeierstyle Knoblauchhaus, a 19th-century middleclass townhouse that escaped WWII damage. Knoblauch Haus: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. www.knoblauchhaus.de. Poststr. 23. T: 030.240020171. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Leipziger Platz 9, 10117 Berlin Potsdamer Platz Daily 10:00 – 20:00 deutsches-spionagemuseum.de

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SIGHTSEEING Potsdamer Platz Before the war, Potsdamer Platz was the city’s beating heart, with department stores, banks, internationally known theaters, dance halls, and cafés. WWII bombs obliterated 80 percent of the square, which was left in limbo for a few years and then enclosed in a no-man’s-land between the Wall and barbed wire fences. The square came back to life in the 1990s as a modern reinterpretation of its original self. Divided in three slices, it includes the Sony building with its central plaza; Daimler City, home to a large shopping mall; and the Manhattan-style Beisheim Center building. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Reichstag and Foster’s Glass Cupola MUST SEE In the last 100 years, the massive neo-Renaissance building, now the seat of German Parliament, has been bombed, set on fire, wrapped by artist Christo, and renovated by Lord Norman Foster. Climb the glass cupola for a 360-degree view of the city, then gaze down at parliament in session. The plenary hall can be visited only on guided tours. Cupola: Daily 8am–midnight by appointment only. Free. Register on website; it is recommended to do so at least three days prior to your visit. Audio tours available. www.bundestag.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030.22732152. U Bundestag. D3/E3

HISTORIC SITES Asisi’s Wall Panorama Yadegar Asisi created a panorama of divided Berlin, presenting everyday life against the backdrop of the Wall on an imaginary day in the 1980s. The artist's aim was to show how the population came to terms with the situation, and the result gives onlookers a glimpse of East German life. Daily 10am–6pm. €10/4. www.asisi.de. Friedrichstr. 205. T: 0341.3555340. U Kochstraße. E3/E4

Holocaust Memorial MUST SEE Berlin’s tribute to the victims of the

Holocaust is as big as a soccer field and consists of 2711 tombstone-like slabs of equal size and varying heights, placed on uneven ground to convey a sense of claustrophobia and disorientation. The underground information center provides a timeline of Jewish persecution. Accessible 24 hours a day. Free. www.holocaust-mahnmal.de. Cora-Berliner Straße. T: 030.2639430. U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Topographie des Terrors MUST SEE On the site of the former headquarters of the SS and the Third Reich’s most important offices, this permanent exhibition recounts the tragic history of Nazi forced labor, focusing on the central institutions of the SS and Third Reich police and the crimes they committed throughout Europe. A segment of the Wall runs along the grounds. Daily 10am–8pm. Free. www.topographie.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 8. T: 030.2545090. U Kochstraße. E4

KIDS & FAMILIES Berlin Zoo and Aquarium MUST SEE One of the city’s main attractions and the oldest zoo in Germany includes pavilions that provide ample indoor space, making the venue suitable for rainy days. The zoo boasts the largest number of species and total animal residents in the world. The aquarium, one of the largest in Europe, features large tanks with piranhas, sharks, and alligators. Daily 9am–6:30pm. Zoo or aquarium: €14.50/7.50, under-4s free. Combined ZooAquarium ticket: €20/10. www.aquarium-berlin.de, www.zoo-berlin.de

Hardenbergplatz 8. T: 030.254010. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Currywurst Museum Learn about Berlin’s most famous street food at this small but entertaining museum. Delve into Currywurst history, discover the secrets of its yellow sauce in the "spice chamber," and watch movies starring the delicious sausage. Daily 10am–8pm. €11/7, under-6s free. www.currywurstmuseum.de. Schützenstr. 70. T: 030.88718647. U Kochstraße. E4

Tempelhof Airport Park MUST SEE What used to be the city’s most central airport is now a four-hectare (10-acre) public park whose six kilometers (3.75 miles) of runways are used for cycling, skating, and a variety of other sports. This is where many Berliners spend their weekends, bringing BBQ equipment or just picnicking on the grass while their kids fly colorful kites. Tempelhofer Damm. S Tempelhof, U Platz der Luftbrücke, U Boddinstraße. Off Map

TOURS & GUIDED WALKS Berliner Unterwelten (Underground Tours) Since 1997, the Berlin Underworlds Association has been offering regular tours of underground structures and subterranean complexes that are otherwise inaccessible. Cold War nuclear shelters, Hitler’s underground fortress, escape routes to the West, and WWII bunkers are just some of the adventures on offer. From €10. www.berliner-unterwelten.de. Brunnenstr. 105. T: 030.49910517.

Berlin Wall Documentation Center MUST SEE Walk along one of the few surviving stretches of the Berlin Wall in an area of the city where its impact was particularly dramatic, then delve into its storied history at the documentation center. Documents and original radio broadcasts from both East and West chronicle one of Germany’s saddest historical periods. Open-air exhibition: 8am-10pm daily; documentation center: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. Free. www.berliner-mauergedenkstaette.de. Bernauer Str. 111. U Bernauer Straße. E2

During the Cold War, Checkpoint Charlie was the main gateway between East and West. Shortly after the Wall went up, US and Soviet tanks faced each other on this spot. Today, the crossing point acts primarily as a backdrop for tourist photographs. U Kochstraße, U Stadtmitte. E3/E4

East Side Gallery While West Berliners loved to express their creativity by drawing graffiti and painting on the Wall, East Berliners were never allowed to use the dividing structure as a canvas. To make up for all the artless years, artists from 21 countries were called upon in 1990 to decorate one mile of the Wall's eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery. Mühlenstraße. S+U Warschauer Straße, S Ostbahnhof. G4

History In The Former American Sector After the German capitulation that ended WWII in Europe, the Allies split Berlin into the American, British, French, and Soviet sectors. For the next 50 years, the occupying powers played vital roles in rebuilding Berlin society. The Allied Museum, located in the heart of the former American sector, explores the military history and political roles the western powers played, starting from the immediate postwar years and the Berlin Airlift, continuing into the Cold War, and culminating in the Allies’ withdrawal in 1994. Much of the museum is housed in the Outpost Theater, a 1920s-style cinema commissioned for the US Army. Outside, the open-air exhibition features aircraft used by the British and American military during the Berlin Airlift, as well as the original Checkpoint Charlie guardhouse. Clayallee 135. T: 030.8181990. www.alliiertenmuseum.de.

COURTESY OF ALLIIERTENMUSEUM

Checkpoint Charlie

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THE GUIDE | MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

CREDIT: MARTIN LUTHER IN THE CIRCLE OF REFORMERS, 1625/1650. ÂŠ DEUTSCHES HISTORISCHES MUSEUM; MORNING GLORY IN THE LUTHERAN KARIAKOO CHURCH IN DAR ES SALAAM, JUNE 2016. ÂŠ DEUTSCHES HISTORISCHES MUSEUM / KARSTEN HEIN.

Martin Luther in the Circle of Reformers,1625/1650

The Luther Effect A passionate fan of Bach's music and Cranach's paintings, Solveig Steinhardt loves the art behind the 500th-anniversary celebrations of the Protestant Reformation. Five centuries ago, when Martin Luther wrote his 95 theses to protest against the excesses of the pope and the corruption of the Catholic church, he probably had no idea to what extent his words would change the world. He not only founded a new religion; by challenging what had been the world's biggest power for more than 1000 years, he became a hero of free speech, and triumphed against the church thanks to his ability to speak to the masses in their language. Be it for his religious importance or for his historic relevance, Luther is celebrated in Germany by many more people than the 30% of the population that identifies as Lutheran. Throughout 2017, the 500th anniversary of the Reformation will bring a number of events to all the German towns associated with him, including Eisleben, where he was born; Wittenberg, where he

to conflicts and wars. And you don't have to posted his 95 theses; and Eisenach, where he be a devout Christian to appreciate this translated the Bible into German. There are exhibition: the marvelous art by even organized walks between painters like Cranach and his these cities, covering a total of followers, as well as objects 2000 km. such as letters, sculptures, Although Berlin remains and photographs make outside of the Luther trail, this a must-see for any the city will celebrate the art lover. priest with the For more on the exhibition The Luther charismatic priest, don't Effect at Martinmiss the Evangelical Gropius-Bau, on until 5 Church Days, bringing November. Curated by the A Lutheran pastor hundreds of cultural events Deutsches Historisches preaching to his to town between 24 and 28 Museum (p. 38), the show congregation May, including concerts featuring focuses on Luther as a historic lots of Bach as well as jazz and pop character and ponders the effect of music, theater plays, shows, and various Protestantism on the modern world, the different interpretations of Luther's teachings, conferences and talks. Visit and even the religion's potential for giving rise www.kirchentag.de for more information. www.wheretraveler.com 37

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

MUSEUMS Altes Museum Berlin’s collection of classical antiquities, housed inside a breathtaking Neoclassical building. Take in the mosaic floor of Hadrian’s villa, a wealth of Greek sculptures, and a number of Etruscan and Roman finds. To 18 Jun: Dangerous Perfection: Antique grave-vases from Apulia. Featuring 13 largescale vases from the indigenous population of southern Italy 2,500 years ago. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www. smb.museum. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Alte Nationalgalerie A splendorous collection of 19th-century art. To 30 Jul: Small Masterpieces features masterpieces small and miniature in size. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6 with exhibition, €10/5 museum only. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1–3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Bauhaus Archiv The avant-garde building designed by Walter Gropius is home to documents, photographs, and models illustrating the Bauhaus philosophy, which combines artistic beauty with architectural functionality. To 23 Oct: Jasper Morrison. Thingness. A retrospective of Morrison’s work and design. To 8 Jan: Bauhaus in Motion. A focus on movement in design as well as Bauhaus’s physical relocation out of Weimar. Wed–Mon 10am–5pm. Sat–Mon €8/5, Wed–Fri. €7/4. www.bauhaus.de. Klingelhöferstr. 14. T: 030.25400278. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

DDR Museum Learn about daily life in the former East Germany at this hands-on museum. Closets filled with GDR (DDR in German) fashion and a Trabant (the GDR car) are just some of the items on display, while photographs illustrate Communist habits, such as collectively potty-training babies or going on nudist holidays. Mon–Sun 10am–8pm, Sat until 10pm. €7/4. www.ddr-museum.de. Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 1. T: 030.847123731. S Hackescher Markt, U Alexanderplatz. E3

Deutsches Historisches Museum MUST SEE Learn about the milestones in German history from the Roman occupation of the Germanic areas to the present day. To 14 May: German Colonialism, Fragments of Its Past and Present confronts the controversial topic of Germany’s colonial past. Daily 10am–6pm. €8/4 (under-18s free). www.dhm.de. Unter den Linden 2. T: 030.203040. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Deutsches Technikmuseum MUST SEE At the museum for all things technology, the old locomotives and aviation rooms are the most popular attractions, while a Rosinenbomber, a 1948 Berlin Airlift aircraft, is mounted on the museum’s roof. A hands-on section allows kids to conduct experiments. To 2 Jul: Oceans – An Expedition in Unexplored Depths. Featuring photographs of the enormous blue world. Mon–Fri 9am–5:30pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm.

€8/4. www.sdtb.de. Trebbiner Str. 9. T: 030.902540. U Möckernbrücke, U Gleisdreieck. E4

The German Spy Museum Delve into the world of espionage with two floors of interactive exhibits covering some 3500 years of espionage history. Highlights include presentations on James Bond and other famous fictitious spies and a laser maze that tests your agility to break into – or out of – compromising locations. €12/8. Daily 10am-8pm. www.deutschesspionagemuseum.de. Leipziger Platz 9. S+U Potsdamer Platz E3

The Gay Museum (Schwules Museum) One of the world’s largest and most significant institutions for archiving, researching, and communicating the history and culture of LGBTQ communities. Changing exhibitions take diverse approaches to lesbian, gay, transgender, bisexual, and queer biographies and concepts in history, art, and culture. To 29 May: g – queer forms migrate explores the unexplored histories between the queer individuals of Germany and Turkey. To 5 Jun: The Lightest Shade of Aflatoon. Focusing on queer refugees’ works and perspectives. Sun– Mon, Wed–Fri 2–6pm, Thu 2–8pm, Sat 2–7pm. €6/4. www.schwulesmuseum.de. Lützowstr. 73. T: 030.69599050. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

Jewish Museum MUST SEE Daniel Libeskind’s architectural jewel, shaped as a deconstructed Star of David, explores millennia of German Jewish history, including the

Bode Museum An extensive collection of Old Masters’ paintings, a section dedicated to ancient coins, and many works of Roman and Byzantine art adorn the museum’s impressive interior, built by Ernst von Ihne in 1904. To 27 May: Art Coins Money: MUSE POWER MONEY examines the interaction between art, money, and power. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.smb. museum. Am Kupfergraben. T: 030.266424242. U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Bröhan Museum

Brücke Museum Founded in Dresden in 1905, the Die Brücke movement drew inspiration from primitive art and expressed extreme emotion and political opposition through lively, exaggerated color. Features the paintings of such artists as Emil Nolde and Erich Heckel. To 3 Sep: The Artists of Die Brücke – Paintings, Illustrations, and Prints. An interchanging selection of prints and paintings, in celebration of the museum’s 50th anniversary. Wed–Mon 11am–5pm. €5/3. www.bruecke-museum.de. Bussardsteig 9. T: 030.8312029. U Oskar-Helene-Heim. Off Map

Poster Children The Bröhan Museum (p. 38) is known for its collection of Art Nouveau, art deco, and Berlin Secession works, which are defining art movements of the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Aside from this focus, the museum’s Blackbox series also highlights graphic designers and photography. Blackbox’s second installment features Günther Kieser, one of Germany’s most prolific graphic designers. Kieser is famed for his posters created for jazz and rock concerts, and his venerable work includes the psychedelic poster of Jimi Hendrix with cables growing out of his hair, as well as the poster of the colorful grimacing skull for the Grateful Dead. Although Kieser is now in retirement, he made an exception for the museum to design the promotional poster for Kieser, Posters, which runs until 23 July.

COURTESY OF BRÖHAN MUSEUM.

Starting in 1966, collector Karl Bröhan amassed hundreds of Art Nouveau and Art Deco objects and various paintings from the Berlin Secessionist movement. Browse through pieces of furniture, housewares, ceramics, and glassware from this fascinating artistic period. To 21 May: Jan Toorop. Song of the Times. Presenting the oeuvre of the famous Dutch symbolist. To 23 Jul: Kieser, Posters. Celebrating the innovations of one of Germany’s most prolific graphic designers. Open Tue–Sun 10am–6pm www.broehan-museum.de. Schloßstr. 1a. T: 030.32690600. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

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museum für gestaltung klingelhöferstr. 14, d-10785 berlin

daily except tue., 10 am – 5 pm www.bauhaus.de

museum für gestaltung berlin 22.3.– 23.10.2017 jasper morrison. t h i n g n e s s

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES alternating glories and persecutions of the community. Daily 10am–8pm, Mon until 10pm. €8/3. www.jmberlin.de. Lindenstr. 9-14. T: 030.25993300. U Hallesches Tor, U Kochstraße. E4

Martin-Gropius-Bau MUST SEE One of the city’s best art and photography exhibition spaces and an important example of early 20th-century architecture, the imposing building combines Italian Renaissance elements with local features, such as mosaics of allegorical figures. To 11 Jun: Frederick Kiesler: Architect, Artist, Visionary. Rediscovered Modern I. Exploring the universality of the avant garde artist’s work in 20th century architecture and art history. To 5 Nov: The Luther Effect. Protestantism – 500 Years in the World. Honoring the Reformation’s 500th anniversary, telling the story of its legacy worldwide. To 3 Jul: Juergen Teller. Enjoy Your Life! Featuring 250 works of one of the most soughtafter music and fashion photographers. Wed–Mon 10am–7pm. Prices vary by exhibition. www.gropiusbau.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 7. T: 030.254860. U Kochstraße. E4

Museum Berggruen

For Explorers!

MGB_17_KIESLER_Anz_where_berlin_118,5x124_4c_.indd 1

MUST SEE A can’t-miss for Picassophiles. The Spanish painter is the star of this Charlottenburg museum, which boasts dozens of rooms filled with his paintings. The collection encompasses 75 years of his life and all of his creative phases. Expanded in 2013, the museum also features many famous works by Matisse, Klee, Giacometti, Van Gogh, Cézanne, and many more. To 12 Mar: George Condo. Confrontation. A retrospective of the American painter’s oeuvre. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 1. T: 030.266424242. 31.03.17 U 15:05 Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Museum of Photography Diverse and comprehesive exhibitions curated from the Berlin Art Library’s vast photographic collection are housed in a Neoclassical 1909 building built for the Prussian army’s officer corps, whose lower two floors are occupied by the Helmut Newton Foundation. To 2 Jul: ‘The Field Has Eyes…’: Images of the Surveillant Gaze. A presentation of surveillance, from the 16th to 20th century. To 2 Jul: Watching You, Watching Me. A Photographic Response to Surveillance. Raising important questions of the blurred lines between public and private in our surveillance culture. To 14 May: Alice Springs: The MEP Show/Helmut Newton: Yellow Press/Mart Engelen: Portraits. Portraits and street photography from Alice Springs, the widow of Helmut Newton; Helmut Newton’s paparazzi and police photography; and Dutch artist Mart Engelen’s film noir-inspired black-and-white portraits. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.266424242. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3–C4

Museum für Naturkunde

Trebbiner Str. 9, 10963 Berlin www.sdtb.de /deutschestechnikmuseum

Home to the world’s largest dinosaur skeleton, the natural history museum also features extensive collections of shells, insects, and prize-winning mounted animal dioramas. From 23 May: Macaws. Examines the threatened South American bird species and sustainable conservation in our globalized world. Tue–Fri 9:30–6pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3. www.naturkundemuseum-berlin. Invalidenstr. 43. T: 030.20938591. U Naturkundemuseum. E2

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Nefertiti is the museum’s top attraction. Examine a world-famous Egyptian collection that includes many important papyruses, while hundreds of artifacts relate early human history. Badly damaged during WWII and left abandoned until the 1980s, the museum reopened in 2009. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.neues-museum.de. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Pergamon Museum

C/O Berlin MUST SEE Contemporary art and photography has finally reopened in the Amerika Haus, which housed the American library during the Cold War era. To 2 Jul: Harf Zimmermann. Hufelandstraße. Zimmermann’s documentation of the strangely bourgeois quarter in the middle of East Berlin. To 2 Jul: William Klein. Photographs and Films. A retrospective of the venerable artist, highlighting his fashion photography and films Daily 11am–8pm. €10/5. www.co-berlin.org Hardenbergstr. 22–24. T: 030.28444160. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

One of Berlin’s main attractions, the Pergamon Dalí – The Exhibition houses the outcome of Germany’s early-20thThe permanent exhibit features more than century archeology excavations. The 400 works, most from private collections, imposing Ishtar Gate of Babylon with by the Surrealist painter, with a focus its glazed blue bricks is a feast for on drawing, illustration, and film. the eyes, as are the Market Gate Dalí fans explore new perspectives from Myletus, the reconstructed Berlin has more than 440 of the artist’s life and work. Daily interiors of an Assyrian palace, contemporary art noon–8pm (10am–8pm in summer). and many other splendorous galleries, which makes €12.50. it the number one testimonies to the ancient world. www.daliberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 7. gallery city in all of The altar room is closed for Toll number: 0700.3254237546. Europe. restoration through 2019. U Potsdamer Platz. D3 www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. Deutsche Bank KunstHalle S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3 With an emphasis on paper and photography, the Deutsche Bank’s art collection is a stroll along The German Spy Museum the timeline of modern art. Every year, the bank Delve into the world of espionage with two pays tribute to young artists by organizing an floors of interactive exhibits covering some 3500 international prize. To 18 Jun: Kemang Wa Lehulere: years of espionage history. Highlights include Bird Song. The Artist of the Year presents his first presentations on James Bond and other famous solo exhibition, with works centering on black fictitious spies and a laser maze that tests your agility to break into – or out of – compromising South African history Daily 10am–8pm. €4/3. locations. €12/8. Daily 10am-8pm. www.deutsches- www.deutsche-bank-kunsthalle.de. spionagemuseum.de. Leipziger Platz 9. Unter den Linden 13/15. T: 030.2020930. S+U Potsdamer Platz E3 S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Stasi Museum The GDR’s Ministry of State Security, the Stasi, has been described as one of the most repressive intelligence and secret police agencies to ever have existed. Explore the agency’s headquarters and learn about their spying techniques, inc. cameras hidden in watering cans or inside fake trees. Open Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat & Sun noon–6pm. €5/4. www.stasimuseum.de. Ruschestr. 103. T: 030.5536854. U Magdalenenstraße. Off Map

ART GALLERIES Akademie der Künste Hanseatenweg The Berlin Art Academy’s long and prestigious history dates back to 1696. Today, this important exhibition space houses one of the most comprehensive interdisciplinary archives of 20thcentury art. Daily 11am–7pm. €6/4 (Free entry Tue 3–7pm). www.adk.de. Hanseatenweg 10. T: 030.200572000. S Bellevue, U Hansaplatz. C3

Berlinische Galerie A modern art collection of 5000+ works of German and Eastern European paintings. From 19 May: Faraway Focus – Photographers Go Travelling (1880-2015). Photography as a way to explore the other and unfamiliar around the world. To 9 Oct: Christine Streuli – Works by the Fred-Theieler-Prize 2017 recipient. To 21 Aug: John Bock. Bock’s work celebrates the absurdity in the world. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm. €8/5 (€10/7 during exhibitions). www. berlinischegalerie.de. Alte Jakobstr. 124-128. T: 030.78902600. U Hallesches Tor. E4

l museum Internatiotna exhibition permanen

(worth

2,80€)

open daily:

Mon - Sun 12 p.m. - 8 p.m. July + August 10 a.m. - 8 p.m. (24th December closed)

Potsdamer Platz entrance: Leipziger Platz 7 Hômmage á S. Dalí by DaVial

MUST SEE The 3300-year-old bust of Queen

Infos: 0700 - 325 423 75**| Tickets: www.DaliBerlin.de

(**0,14€/ Min. from a landline, mobile communications vary, max 0,42€/ Min.) *only in combination with the entrance fee. Cannot be combined with other offers. Valid until June, 30th 2017.

With over 450 exhibits from private collections this permanent exhibition provides general insight into Dalí’s virtuous mastery in almost all art techniques in Berlin’s lively city centre.

www.daliberlin.de

Take a walk through

Berlin’s history

Gemäldegalerie – Old Masters Painting Gallery MUST SEE One of the finest collections of European art from the 13th to the 18th centuries. Lots of Dutch and Flemish painters, including Rembrandt and Vermeer, and a vast collection of Italian Renaissance art, including Botticelli, Titian, and Canaletto. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Matthäikirchplatz 50. T: 030.266424242. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Georg-Kolbe-Museum An idyllic garden houses the former studio of German Secessionist artist Georg Kolbe, who used the human body as an expression of the human spirit, challenging the role of sculpture as a representation of mythological or heroic symbolism. The museum displays a wide selection of works and hosts frequent exhibitions. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3. www.georg-kolbe-museum.de. Sensburger Allee 25. T: 030.3042144. S Heerstraße. Off Map

Hamburger Bahnhof The permanent collection of this former railway station includes a selection of works from the Friedrich Christian Flick Collection, and the many temporary exhibitions focus on painting and sculpture from the past 50 years, as well as videos, music, and design. To 3 Sep: Adrian Piper. The Probable Trust Registry: The Rules of the Game #1-3. An intimately interactive installation of promises and principles. To 17 Sep: moving

©ISTOCK

Neues Museum

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES is in every direction. Environments – Installations – Narrative Spaces. A sensory learning experience of the history of installation art. To 17 Sep: Rudolf Belling. Sculptures and Architectures. Highlighting the oeuvre of the classical modernism sculptor. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €14/7. www.hamburgerbahnhof.de. Invalidenstr. 50-51. T: 030.266424242. U Naturkundemuseum, S Hauptbahnhof. D2

Haus am Waldsee Since 1946, this Zehlendorf villa has organized contemporary art exhibitions that cover a wide spectrum of media and styles. Each show is complemented by events – lectures, concerts, and performances – for children and adults. The multi-sensory sculpture garden is one of the city’s finest and worth a visit on its own. For an unusual yoga class, try Yoga Amidst the Art, offered Wed 9-10:30am. To 5 Jun: MISSING Der Turm Der Blauen Pferde By Franz Marc. Contemporary artists explore the fate of the missing Expressionism painting. Open Tue–Sun 11am–6pm. €7/5. www.hausamwaldsee.de. Argentinische Allee 30. T: 030.8018935. U Krumme Lanke. Off Map

Liebermann Villa on Lake Wannsee

A world of exhibitions

CL904 MUST SEE The former summer residence of artist Max Liebermann, co-founder and head of the German Secessionist movement. Before being dismissed and banned by the Nazis in 1933, Liebermann painted around 200 works in this villa, some of which are on display in his studio on the upper floor. €3 plus museum entry. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm (11am–5pm in winter). €7/4 (€6/4 in summer). www.liebermann-villa.de. Colomierstr. 3. T: 030.80585900. S Wannsee. Off Map

me Collectors Room Thomas Olbricht created this space to bring together other international art collectors and to organize exhibitions, workshops, and concerts. The upper floor houses his “cabinet of curiosities.” To 27 Aug: Sigmar Polke – The Editions. Highlighting 200 works from the notable contemporary photographer and painter. Tue–Sun noon–6pm. €7/4. www.me-berlin.com. Auguststr. 68. T: 030.86008510. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Sammlung Scharf-Gerstenberg The Scharf-Gerstenberg collection houses three floors of works by some of the giants of Surrealism, including Paul Klee, Max Ernst, Salvador Dalí, and René Magritte. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 70. T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

©ISTOCK

Commercial Galleries

Berlin

Mutare. Galerie für zeitgenössische Kunst, to 20 May: Jürgen Leippert, Sybille Onnen: Views. Giesebrechtstr.12. www.galeriemutare.de; Galerie Michael Schultz, to 20 May. Ahmet Güneştekin, Ryan Mendoza. Mommsenstr. 34. www.galerie-schultz.de; Galerie Albrecht, to 3 Jun: Richard Milazzo, Abraham David Christian: One Thing at a Time. Charlottenstr. 78. www.galeriesusannealbrecht.de; Galerie Gerken, to 8 Jun: Dieter Mammel. Linienstr. 217. www.galerie-gerken.de; Kuckei + Kuckei, to 10 Jun: 12 Moments. Linienstr. 158 + Linienstr. 107/108. www.kuckei-kuckei.de; Wichtendahl Galerie, to 10 Jun: Katrin Günther, Johannes Regin. Carmerstr. 10. www.wichtendahl.de.

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THE GUIDE | DINING

CREDIT: HOUSE OF SMALL WONDER: PHOTO BY STEFAN KÜHNE; ORA: COURTESY OF ORA; KANTINE KOHLMANN: COURTESY OF KANTINE KOHLMANN.

Clockwise from left: ORA; Kantine Kohlmann; House of Small Wonder. Inset, below: ORA.

Dining In Designer Style Design is all-important these days, so Hilda Hoy picked out her favorite restaurants where the interiors are as much a draw as the menu. Germans often say “Die Augen essen mit,” or “the eyes eat too.” What it means is that our sense of sight also plays a role in enjoying a meal. It’s why not only appetizing-looking dishes but also a beautiful interior are part of every successful restaurant’s repertoire. In recent years, the bar for interior design has been set ever higher in the local gastronomy scene. To treat your eyes to a memorable meal, here are my top 5 Berlin restaurant interiors. Panama (Potsdamer Str. 91, www. oh-panama.com) brings adventurous fine dining to the up-and-coming gallery district of Potsdamer Straße. The bright space has a cool, laissez-faire vibe with a warm-weather getaway feel to it – Miami beach cabana meets desert escape. The menu is playful and modern, combining local ingredients with international culinary influences. The creative cocktail concoctions are a must-try. At eins44 (Elbestr. 28–29, www.eins44.com), the industrial chic look is simply the real deal:

the location, tucked away in a Neukölln courtyard, was once a distillery. High ceilings and huge windows give the restaurant a loft feel, and to go with the striking century-old tiles on the wall are other post-industrial accents like factory-style lamps and butcher block tables. The menu of modern German cuisine is similarly pared-down, with two set menus at dinner. With raw walls and a dark, wood- and leather-accented interior, Kantine Kohlmann (Skalitzer Str. 64, www.kantinekohlmann.de) straddles the fine line between glamour and decrepit charm. The attached bar has the sleek, sexy vibe of a 1970s lounge, along with a fireplace. The bistro-style German menu has classics like steak tartare, oxtail consommé, and schnitzel.

Ignore the bland office building exterior. In the door and up a winding staircase is House of Small Wonder (Johannisstr. 20, www. houseofsmallwonder.de), with the feel of a secret garden hideaway. This inviting brunch and lunch spot features a JapaneseMediterranean-American hybrid menu that is as charming as the plant-filled, vintage-accented décor. Try the matcha latte and Okinawan taco rice. ORA (Oranienplatz 14, www.ora-berlin.de) didn’t need to try hard to be stunning. The century-old interior of the one-time pharmacy is still amazingly intact, carved wooden cupboards and all. With its many antique accents, ORA is something of a beautiful time capsule. Uncomplicated bistro-style meals are served all day and there’s a great cocktail menu at night, when the space transforms into a bar. www.wheretraveler.com 43

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DINING KEY Alc (à la carte): Prices are per person for three courses (excl. drinks) €: under €15. €€: €15–€40. €€€: €40–€80. €€€€: over €80. Restaurants listed in Fine Dining have at least one Michelin star. Letter/ number codes correspond to map at back of book. Recommended by Die Goldenen Schlüssel Deutschland e.V./U.I.C.H. Les Clefs d’Or.

FINE DINING For a complete list of Berlin's Michelin-starred restaurants, visit wheretraveler.com/berlin.

5 – Cinco by Paco Pérez Catalan star chef Paco Pérez’s very first endeavor outside Spain is this Michelin-starred restaurant in Das Stue Hotel. His aim is to tickle all five senses with avant-garde taste experiences that take full advantage of the flavors and ingredients of his home country. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.5-cinco.com. Drakestr. 1. T: 030.3117220. S Tiergarten. C3

Facil Situated in a glass atrium of The Mandala Hotel and ringed by the courtyard’s trees, Facil has mastered understated elegance in both its décor and cuisine. Double-Michelin-starred chef Michael Kempf is particularly masterful with seafood when creating his fine menus. €€€€. Mon–Fri L&D. www.facil.de. Potsdamer Str. 3. T: 030.590051234. S Potsdamer Platz. D3

awarded a Michelin star in 2013. Meat dishes made from local game are a highlight. €€€. Daily L&D, closed Sun. www.paulysaal.com. Auguststr. 11–13. T: 030.33006070. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Reinstoff Chef Daniel Achilles didn’t earn two Michelin stars by playing it safe. The two nightly dinner menus at Reinstoff – one focused on regional tastes, the other incorporating influences from farther afield – are successful experiments in exciting, avantgarde cuisine. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.reinstoff.eu. Schlegelstr. 26c. T: 030.30881214. U Naturkundemuseum, S Nordbahnhof. E2

CHARLOTTENBURG– WILMERSDORF Café Wintergarten im Literaturhaus German/Austrian. Classic elegance permeates the high-ceilinged rooms of this café, reminiscent of turn-of-the-century literary salons. Snag a table in the greenhouse-like vestibule, or settle down by one of the grand windows to enjoy breakfast, bistro-style meals, or a glass of wine. €. Daily B, L, D. www.literaturhaus-berlin.de. Fasanenstr. 23. T: 030.8825414. U Uhlandstraße. C4

Duke Restaurant French. The Ellington Hotel’s signature restaurant is all about French haute cuisine with modern, creative twists. Both the à la carte options and the menu of monthly specials illustrate the restaurant’s dedication to top-quality best meat, seafood, and regional produce. €€€. Mon–Sat L&D. www.duke-restaurant. com. Nürnberger Str. 50-55. T: 030.683154000. U Augsburger Straße. C4

Paris Bar French. Many celebrities – including

Madonna, Sophia Loren, and Robert De Niro – have patronized this West Berlin institution over the years. The bistro-style menu includes French classics like oysters and steak-frites, though the legend alone is enough to draw guests. €€€. Daily L&D. www.parisbar.net. Kantstr. 152. T: 030.3138052. S Savignyplatz. C4

Wilson's – The Prime Rib Restaurant American. Juicy, high-quality meats cooked the American way and served with salads, potatoes and extravagant desserts. €€€. www.restaurant-wilsons. de. Crowne Plaza Berlin City Centre. Nürnberger Str. 65. T: 030.21007000. U Augsburger Straße. C4

Zwölf Apostel Italian. The interior of this Charlottenburg

Fischers Fritz Pure, straightforward luxury is the formula at this restaurant in the Regent Berlin Hotel. One of just a handful of Berlin restaurants to earn two Michelin stars, Fischers Fritz will not fail to impress with its elevated cuisine and finely honed service. €€€€. Daily B, humuD. www.fischersfritzberlin.com. Charlottenstr. 49. T: 030.20336363. U Französische Straße. E3

Horváth Austria-born chef Sebastian Frank built a reputation – and earned a Michelin star – with his highly creative, oftentimes minimalist use of seasonal ingredients, from sunchokes to candied parsley root to spruce needles. Wooden interior and lovely outdoor patio. €€€. Wed–Sun D. www.restaurant-horvath.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 44a. T: 030.61289992. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

On the 14th floor of the InterContinental Hotel, Hugos offers panoramic views of the city along with Michelin-starred French-German cuisine, with a well-earned reputation as one of Berlin's go-to gourmet destinations. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www. hugos-restaurant.de. Budapesterstr. 2. T: 030.26021263. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer The Hotel Adlon restaurant boasts two Michelin stars and a well-earned spot in the upper echelon of Berlin’s finest restaurants. No detail is spared in the creation of an unforgettable dining experience, presided over by chef Hendrik Otto. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.lorenzadlon-esszimmer.de. Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2661196. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Pauly Saal The chic, hip décor is matched by a menu of equally creative German cuisine, which was

Wireless Dining If you like the experience of eating out but could do without the unpredictable wait times, small talk with service staff, and fumbling with cash and tip, then Data Kitchen is the answer to your dining dreams. At this hyper-modern restaurant experiment tucked away in a courtyard near Hackescher Markt, every step is digitized – except for the cooking, which is handled by a proper (human) chef, one who earned his chops in a Michelin-starred kitchen. The digital ordering system couldn’t be more convenient: Just check out the menu of the day on the mobile website or the restaurant’s app, choose your meal, select what time you want to eat, and complete payment. When you arrive, your freshly prepared meal will be ready and waiting in a glass cubby that you unlock using your phone. Data Kitchen is open daily for tasty breakfasts like quinoa porridge with stewed pears or avocado toast, and for fresh, vegetarian-friendly lunches like bulgur salad with roasted vegetables and herbs, barley risotto with beets and feta, or heartier German comfort food like Königsberg meatballs. All you need is a smartphone – and a good appetite. Rosenthaler Str. 38. T: 030 68073040. www.datakitchen.berlin.

COURTESY OF DATA KITCHEN

Hugos

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restaurant is frescoed like a Renaissance church, and the famed pizzas are named after each of Jesus’s twelve apostles. The thin-crust, wood-fired pizzas are sinfully delicious, as are the other Italian menu items. Second location: Georgenstr. 2, Mitte. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.12-apostel.de. Bleibtreustr. 49. T: 030.31 21433. S Savignyplatz. B4

RESTAURANT | BAR | CLUB | EVENTS

FRIEDRICHSHAIN Matreshka Russian. Simple, homey Russian fare. Borscht, meatstuffed pelmeni dumplings and their vegetarian equivalent, vareniky, a selection of Georgian wines, and, of course, plenty of vodka. €. Daily L&D. Boxhagener Str. 60. T: 0163.9870767. S Ostkreuz. H3

Transit Asian Fusion. The long menu of tapas-style Thai and Indonesian dishes, each just a few euros, allows diners to cobble together a meal encompassing a wide range of tastes and ingredients. Second location in Mitte at Rosenthaler Str. 68. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.transitrestaurants.com. Sonntagstr. 28. T: 030.26948415. S Ostkreuz. Off Map

KREUZBERG Spindler & Klatt Asian-European fusion. Restaurant, lounge, and club in one, Spindler & Klatt makes full use of its prime river location. In the summer, the waterside terrace is a memorable spot to enjoy the menu of Pan-Asian dishes, from fine sushi to sizzling tuna steaks and dry-aged Irish steaks hot off the grill. Even in colder months, the chic, post-industrial interior – built in the 1800s as an army bakery – is unforgettable too. On Fridays and Saturdays, the spot transforms into a club from 23pm. €€€. Daily D. www.spindlerklatt.com. Köpenicker Str. 16–17. T: 030 319881860. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Volt

Open daily: Monday to Friday: 12.00 - 23.00 CET Saturday and Sunday: 18.00 - 23.00 CET Make your Reservation: Tel. 030 / 278 909 95 55 www.the-grand-berlin.com

M A K E H UM MUS, NOT WA LLS.

German. The name of this restaurant and the edgy,

post-industrial interior remind diners that the space was once an electricity station. Chef Matthias Gleiss has edge, too – he was named Newcomer of the Year in 2011 by a jury of top Berlin chefs. Refined yet exciting German food is his calling card. €€€. Mon– Sat D. www.restaurant-volt.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 21. T: 030.61074033. U Kottbusser Tor. G4

MITTE

AIGNER am Gendarmenmarkt Austrian/German. The Mitte restaurant boasts an elegant interior and a view on stately Gendarmenmarkt. Styled after Vienna's famed coffeehouses, AIGNER adds a local touch with dishes like Brandenburg roast duck. €€€. Daily L&D. www.aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de. Französischestr. 25 T: 030.203751850. U Französische Straße. E3

Barist Italian. Healthful, filling breakfasts, quick business

lunches, happy-hour cocktails, and dinner with friends in the red-bricked arches under the trains at S Hackescher Markt station. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.barist.de. Am Zwirngraben 13. T: 030.24722613. S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

Borchardt German/French. A favorite hobnobbing spot

of the rich and famous, Borchardt is popular for both its food (especially the schnitzel) as well as the opportunity to see and be seen. €€. Daily L&D.

Hummus & Friends R E STAUR A N T & BA R Make your reservation: 0049.(0).30.55471454 info@hummus-and-friends.de Monday to Sunday: 10.30 am – 24:00 pm Oranienburger Straße 27, 10117 Berlin

www.hummus-and-friends.de

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Steaks. Juicy, delicious steaks and high-quality meats on the bustling, lively Platz at Hackescher Markt. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.beefbullclub.de. Neue Promenade 7. T: 030.27582849. S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

beer to match. Meaty specialties include pork knuckle served with dumplings and sauerkraut, freshly baked pretzels, and the tempting “Munich sausage parade.” From the four kinds of Paulaner beer on tap to the warm hospitality, Maximilians goes to great lengths to transport a piece of Bavaria to the heart of Mitte. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.maximiliansrestaurant.de. Friedrichstr. 185–190. T: 030.20450559. U Stadtmitte. E3

Cookies Cream

Nante Eck

Beef Bull Club

Vegetarian. A whole new kind of vegetarian

German. With delightful dishes from Berlin’s

dining. First, there’s getting there, which feels more like going to an underground club than a restaurant. Then there’s the food, vegetarian eating gone haute cuisine, thanks to celebrity chef Stephan Hentschel. €€–€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.cookiescream.com. Behrenstr. 55. T: 030.27492940. U Französische Straße. E3

Grand Rocka

traditional cuisine and a menu that changes every month, the Nante Eck restaurant offers a refined cuisine made with fresh local ingredients. Specialties include extra-big currywurst with potato and cucumber salad and Flammkuchen pies. Very long beer menu. €. Daily L&D in summer. www. nante-eck.de. Unter den Linden 35. T: 030.22487257. U Französische The döner kebab, the Straße. F2 delicious meat and salad

International. Inside, the restaurant sandwich, was invented takes over the historic arched space Restauration 1840 by a Turkish immigrant under S Hackescher Markt station, German. An elegant, old-timey in Berlin in 1971. featuring a grand old wooden bar that restaurant decorated in the style of lives up to the restaurant’s name, and out Berlin’s Golden 1920s. Think curved brick front, the terrace spills out across the busy Platz. ceilings and lots of warm wood everywhere, The large international menu ranges from steaks to plus an outdoor terrace. The menu: classic German pizzas to burgers. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.grandrocka. meets modern European. €€. Daily B, L, D. de. Am Zwirngraben 6–7. T: 030.24638606. F2 www.berlin-1840.de.de. Am Zwirngraben 10. T: 030.24727401. The Grand S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3 German. The sophisticated supper club, with origins reaching back to 1842, boasts an American grill that makes its international array of steaks among the best in town. The upstairs lounge (and, in particular, I Due Forni its cocktails) attracts a decadent late-night scene. Italian. The atmosphere in this pizza hall is €€€. Mon–Fri L, Daily D. www.the-grand-berlin.com. raucous and the service notoriously surly, but that Hirtenstraße 4. T: 030.278909555. doesn’t keep the pizza-loving crowds at bay. The Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2 generously sized and traditional-style thin-crust

PRENZLAUER BERG

Grill Royal German/French. A beloved destination of

Mitte’s well-dressed creative scenesters. There’s more to the menu than just grilled meat, though the steaks are indeed excellent. Lobster cocktail, ceviche, and oysters are just a few other additions to the fine menu. €€€. Daily D. www. grillroyal.com. Friedrichstr. 105b. T: 030.28879288. S Friedrichstraße. E3

Käfer Dachgarten-Restaurant of the German Bundestag German. The Reichstag is for more than sightseeing. Thanks to the culinary team behind Käfer, it’s also a fine dining destination. On the roof of the famed landmark, Käfer boasts splendid views and refined, modern German cuisine. Advance reservations required. Due to security precautions, each guest must provide official photo I.D. upon entry. €€€. Daily B, L, D. www.feinkost-kaefer.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030 2262990. U Bundestag, S Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3.

Katz Orange German/European. Housed in a former brewery, the warm, stylish interior decoration of this restaurant is met with a menu of top-quality, updated comfort foods. The kitchen’s pride and joy is the “Slow Food” section of the menu, starring 12-hour, sous vide roasted pork neck, ribs, or lamb shoulder. €€. Daily D, closed Sun. www.katzorange.com. Bergstr. 22. T: 030.983208430. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

Maximilians German. Maximilians recreates the feel of a cozy Bavarian beer hall with hearty food and plentiful

YOU ARE SO SWEET Whether it's "Happy Mother's Day," "Happy Birthday," or simply "I love you," here are the sweetest ways to express your feelings. KADÓ For licorice lovers, a visit to Germany’s first licorice specialty store is a must. Their socalled black treasures are lined up in glass bonbon jars, waiting to be mixed according to your desires. Graefestr. 20. T: 030 69041638. www.kado.de

WALD KÖNIGSBERGER MARZIPAN What was once reserved for emperors and kings can now be enjoyed by all. Marzipan here is made by hand according to 100-year old tradition, using only natural ingredients of the highest quality (pictured below). Pestalozzistr. 54A. T: 030 3238254. www.wald-koenigsberger-marzipan.com

concoctions are famed around the city. €. Daily L&D. Schönhauser Allee 12. T: 030.44017333. U Senefelderplatz. F2

Lucky Leek Vegetarian. It’s not luck that makes Lucky Leek so good, but rather a dedication to creating topnotch gourmet cuisine that is also 100-percent vegan and incorporates international tastes. The small but comprehensive menu changes regularly. €€. Wed–Sun D. www.lucky-leek.de. U Senefelderplatz. F2

SCHÖNEBERG Renger-Patzsch

German. All dark wood and white tablecloths, the look at Renger-Patzsch is as simple and elegant as is its menu of refined German-Austrian cuisine. Meat dishes are a specialty, as are the Alsatian Flammkuchen, bases of thin dough baked with topping combos like apple and blood sausage. €€. Daily D. www.renger-patzsch.com. Wartburgstr. 54. T: 030.7842059. U Eisenacher Straße. D5

TIERGARTEN Café am Neuen See and Biergarten German/European. A waterside location in the

middle of the Tiergarten park makes this a lovely spot come warm weather or chilly. Besides satisfying meals, visitors can enjoy a seat in the beer garden or a row on the lake in summer or glowing fireplaces and games of Eisstockschiessen – a Bavarian ice game similar to curling – in the winter. €. Daily B, L, D. www.cafeamneuensee.de. Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930. S Tiergarten. C3

RAUSCH SCHOKOLADEN This shop is not only home to reputedly the longest praline counter in the world, but also has monumental chocolate sculptures of Berlin’s main attractions and serves divine hot chocolates at their in-house café. Charlottenstr. 60. T: 0800 0301918. www.rausch.de

MR MINSCH Carry on the traditional German Sunday coffee and cake in good fashion at Mr Minsch. They offer a daily selection of up to 20 classical tarts and cakes, to be enjoyed at their outside tables, but the real draw are their chocolate and sugar sculptures. Yorckstr. 15. T: 030 52664903. www.mr-minsch-torten.de

COURTESY OF WALD KÖNIGSBERGER MARZIPAN.

www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Französische Str. 47. T: 030.81886262. U Französische Straße. E3

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Clockwise from far left: Jacob Collier; Mopo; Adam Baldych and Helge Lien Duo; Dinosaur; Gilad Hekselman Trio; Global Dance Kulture; Orlando Julius. Inset, below: Ace Tee.

All That Jazz

DINOSAUR: © DAVE STAPLETON; ALL OTHER IMAGES: COURTESY OF XJAZZ FESTIVAL.

The annual XJAZZ Festival is back with a colorful mix of concerts exploring the many diverse facets of contemporary jazz. Hilda Hoy has her tickets already. For the average person, the term “jazz” might conjure up an image of a man on a saxophone, wailing away in a smoky bar. Or perhaps the Jazz Age of the 1920s, when flapper girls and their dapper companions danced the Charleston in illicit speakeasies. But forget any stereotypes you may have about the jazz genre: The XJAZZ Festival (www.xjazz.net) is here to present a fresher, more diverse, and thoroughly modern look at what’s happening in jazz today. From 3–7 May, the festival’s concert program presents a wide view of contemporary jazz in all its many facets. “The spirit of jazz is the spirit of openness,” legendary jazz pianist-keyboardist Herbie Hancock once said. Or as Sonny Rollins put it, “Jazz is the type of music that can absorb so many things and still be jazz.” Reflecting this openness, the XJAZZ concerts include not only the kind of music that you might typically think of as “jazz” but also electronically improvised soundscapes,

contemporary takes on classical music, and singer-songwriter performances. The Atom String Quartet, for example, playing on 5 May, uses the instruments of a traditional chamber music ensemble to play improv music that merges jazz with Polish folk music. Nigerian saxophonist Orlando Julius will play with the band Heliocentrics at Bi Nuu on 4 May, delivering a lively, rhythmic fusion of Afrobeat, R&B, and funk that is guaranteed to get every body in the house moving. The following night, legendary Nigerian drummer Tony Allen, considered one of the founding fathers of the Afrobeat genre, will perform songs from one of his greatest inspirations, US bebop drummer Art Blakey. At the more electronic end of the spectrum is Pantha du Prince, performing 7 May at

Funkhaus. Somewhere between a minimal techno musician and conceptual sound artist, he coalesces acoustic elements and digital features into the kind of many-layered, symphonic soundscape you can get lost in. Similarly, the music of Berlin-based composer Martyn Hyne starts out deceptively hushed and simple, though his guitar loops and electronic elements gradually build up to a hypnotically lush sound. See him work his magic live on 4 May at Emmauskirche in Kreuzberg. Award-winning trumpet player Sebastian Studnitzky will be at Lido on 6 May with his latest musical project, KY organic, which marries trumpet and piano, jazz and minimal techno for clear, emotionally striking melodies. For more on what drives his musical style, flip to his interview on p. 58. www.wheretraveler.com 47

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Deutsche Oper A 1960s décor-free box of acoustic magic. Director and conductor Donald Runnicles puts together rich programs with lots of Verdi, Rossini, and Mozart. 1, 6 May: The Swallow (Puccini). 7, 11, 16, 20 May: The Flying Dutchman (Wagner). 23, 27 May: L'Elisir d'Amore (Donizetti). 24, 26 May: Billy Budd (Britten). 28 May: Tosca (Puccini). www. deutscheoperberlin.de. T: 030.34384343. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Komische Oper Young and daring opera productions won this theater the title of Opera House of the Year 2013. Australian intendant Barrie Kosky is also the artistic director of some of the performances, with mesmerizing results. 1, 28 May: Don Giovanni (Mozart). 6, 19 May: The Coronation of Poppea (Monteverdi/Elena Katz-Chernin). 7 May: Heute Nacht oder nie (Spolianski). 12, 20 May: Carmen (Bizet). 13 May: The Fairground Scene, from Sorochintsky Fair (Mussorgsky), in Russian. 14 May: The Magic Flute (Mozart). 21, 25 May: Medea (Reimann). www.komische-oper-berlin.de. Behrensstr. 55-57. T: 030.47997400. U Französische Straße. E3

Staatsballett Berlin’s ballet company currently performs at various locations. 5, 12, 14 May: Swan Lake (Tchaikovsky). 19 May: Onegin (Tchaikovsky). 23, 24, 29 May: Duato/Schechter at Komische Oper. www.staatsballett-berlin.de. T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Staatsoper im Schiller Theater While its home on Unter den Linden gets revamped, the Staatsoper has temporarily moved all performances to the Schiller Theater. Daniel Barenboim’s perfect productions range from Baroque operas to contemporary premieres. 2, 4 May: Le Nozze di Figaro (Mozart). 3, 5 May: La Traviata (Verdi). 6, 7, 13, 18, 20, 25 May: Il Barbiere di Siviglia (Verdi). 14, 17, 21, 26, 28 May: Don Carlo (Verdi). 27 May: La Damnation de Faust (Verdi). www.staatsoper-berlin.de. T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3

CLASSICAL CONCERTS Berliner Dom Berlin’s main cathedral presents a plethora of sacred music concerts year round. www. berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269136. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Hochschule für Musik Hanns Eisler One of Berlin’s most prestigious music academies. Its students are members of important orchestras, choirs, and bands, and the stage presents hundreds of concerts every year – many of which are free. www.hfm-berlin.de. Charlottenstr. 55. T: 030.688305700. U Stadtmitte. E3

Chamber Music Hall of the Philharmonie Part of the Philharmonie, this concert hall presents daily chamber-music concerts and free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays. 5 May: The Freiburger Barockorchetser (cond. von der Goltz) plays music by Gluck, Boccherini, and Mozart. 11 May: Sir Andras Schiff (piano) plays Bach, Bartok, Schumann. 12 May: The Freiburger BarockConsort performs Monteverdi's Vespro della Beata Vergine. 17 May: The St Petersburg Philharmonic Orchestra (cond. Temirkanov) and pianist Buchbinder play

Brahms and Tchaikovsky. 19 May: Pianist Sophie Pacini plays Chopin, Beethoven, and Liszt. 24 May: Jerusalem Quartet and András Schiff. 26 May: Kammerorchester Capella Amadeus plays Beethoven, Mozart, Dvorak. www.berlinerphilharmoniker.de. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Konzerthaus

10 May: The Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester (cond. Ashkenazy) performs Shostakovich. 12–14 May: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Bychkov, cello Capuçon) play music by Shostakovich. 18–20 May: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. OrozcoEstrada) play Rachmaninov and Shostakovich. 24–26 May: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Muti) play Schubert and Tchaikovsky. 31 May–3 Jun: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. sir Simon Rattle) play Mozart and Stravinsky. www.berlinerphilharmoniker.de. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

This charismatic 1821 concert hall is the base theater of the Konzerthausorchester, but other orchestras and soloists grace its stage regularly. 2 May: The Akademie Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester für Alte Musik performs Rameau Berlin and Händel. 4 May: The Wiener Injecting new expression into 19thPhilharmoniker play Beethoven and 20th-century classical works and Bruckner. 5, 6 May: The under the lead of Marek Janowski, The Komische Oper brings Konzerthausorchester Berlin the oldest German radio orchestra back forgotten cabaret pieces (cond. Fischer) plays Beethoven and German operettas with its 103 members has won a and Kagel. 11 May: The that were banned by place in the top tier of European Konzerthaus Kammerorchester the Nazis. concert orchestras. www.rsb-online. presents Sibelius and Grieg. 16 May: de. Tickets: 030.20298715. The Konzerthausorchester Berlin (cond. Pinnock) plays Mozart and Beethoven. 19, 20, 21 May: The Konzerthausorchester Berlin (cond. Sanderling) plays Brahms and Grieg. 27 May: The Konzerthausorchester Berlin (cond. Spinosi) plays Haydn and Sant-Säens. 30 May: Violinist Viktoria Mullova plays Bach, Prokofiev, and Dock 11 Studios & Eden Avant-garde dance shows and contemporary more. www.konzerthaus.de. Gendarmenmarkt. performances inside an old factory. Two locations, T: 030.203092101. U Hausvogteiplatz. E3 one in Prenzlauer Berg, one in Pankow. www. Philharmonie dock11-berlin.de. Dock 11 Studios: Kastanienallee The iconic concert venue is home to the acclaimed 79. T: 030.4481222. U Eberswalder Straße, Berliner Philharmoniker, currently led by Sir Rosenthaler Platz. F2; Eden Studios: Breite Str. 43 Simon Rattle, but also hosts other ensembles and (Pankow). T: 030.35120312. soloists. Free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays 1pm. S+U Pankow. Off Map 5–8 May: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Sir HAU (Hebbel am Ufer) Simon Rattle). Works by Simon Holt and Anton Cutting-edge shows and hip performances at this Bruckner. 7 May: The Staatskapelle Berlin (cond. off-theater and cultural point. www.hebbel-amShani, violin Lisa Batiashvili) performs Prokofiev.

DANCE AND EXPERIMENTAL SPACES

The King Of Latin Pop Returns Spanish superstar Enrique Iglesias makes his first appearance in Germany in 15 years, returning on 5 May to Berlin’s MercedesBenz Arena to perform pop songs from his latest album Sex and Love. Listen to catchy songs in Spanish and English such as Bailando and Finally Found You and sultry ballads like Loco, as well as some classics. Widely regarded as "the King of Latin Pop," Iglesias has scored 150 number-one hits across all Billboard charts. www. mercedes-benz-arena.de

ENRIQUE IGLESIAS: CC BY A 2.0, PHOTO BY EVA RINALDI 2011 VIA WIKIMEDIA COMMONS.

BALLET & OPERA

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THEATER, MUSICALS & DANCE THE ONE: GRAND SHOW Friedrichstadt-Palast, all month

SCOTCH AND SODA Chamäleon Theater, all month

LIKE BERLIN Wintergarten Berlin, all month

SHEN YUN Theater am Potsdamer Platz, 8–10 May

ROCK, JAZZ, POP BRYAN FERRY Tempodrom, 19 May

ENRIQUE IGLESIAS Mercedes-Benz Arena, 5 May

BALLET & CLASSICAL DON GIOVANNI Komische Oper, 1 & 28 May

L'ELISIR D'AMORE Deutsche Oper, 27 May

ufer.de. Stresemannstr. 29; Tempelhofer Ufer 10; Hallesches Ufer 32. T: 030.2590040. U Hallesches Tor. E4

Radialsystem V

Hundreds of listings every month

Once a turn-of-the-century pumping station for the Berlin Water Services, this creative space is now a cultural center and idea factory that hosts performances of all kinds, from classical concerts to jazz jam sessions to contemporary dance. www.radialsystem.de. Holzmarktstr. 33. T: 030.288788588. S+U Jannowitzbrücke. G3

Sophiensaele Choreographer Sasha Waltz’s center for avantgarde dance, contemporary theater (mainly in German), music, and experimental performance artists. www.sophiensaele.com. Sophienstr. 18. T: 030.2835266. U Weinmeisterstraße, S Hackescher Markt, S Oranienburger Straße. E2

MOVIE THEATERS CinemaxX Potsdamer Platz Multiplex cinema. Most of the movies are screened in their original language, with or without subtitles. www.cinemaxx.de. Potsdamer Str. 5. T: 040.80806969. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Cinestar Sony Center The latest Hollywood blockbusters, in English, every day. www.cinestar.de. Potsdamer Str. 4. T: 030.26066400. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Odeon This old-school single-screen cinema was Berlin’s first English-language theater and still screens both cult movies and new releases. Hauptstr. 116. T: 030.78704019. U Rathaus Schöneberg, S Schöneberg. C5

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ENRIQUE IGLESIAS: CC BY A 2.0, PHOTO BY EVA RINALDI 2011 VIA WIKIMEDIA COMMONS.

Highlights

Berlin wheretraveler.com

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ENTERTAINMENT

ROCK, POP, JAZZ

KulturBrauerei

A-Trane Since 1992, this intimately sized but important venue (it was named Best German Jazzclub in 2011) has welcomed both emerging and A-list talent, including Wynton Marsalis, Herbie Hancock, and Diana Krall. Daily from 8pm, free entry Sunday after 10:30pm. www.a-trane.de. Pestalozzistr. 105. T: 030.3132550. S Savignyplatz. B3/B4

B Flat Jazz Club Small jazz bands play almost every night at this bar. Free jam sessions every Wednesday. www.b-flat-berlin.de. Dircksenstr. 40. T: 030.2833123. S+U Alexanderplatz. F2 The multi-function event space hosts some of today’s most popular pop and rock acts. www.columbia-theater. de. Columbiadamm 13-21. T: 030.69812814. U Platz der Luftbrücke. E5

Enjoy an evening with the world’s top look-andsound-alike artists and taste a three-course dinner during Stars In Concert, a live performance of legends like Elvis, Abba, Johnny Cash, Buddy Holly, and more. www.stars-in-concert.de. Wed– Sat 8:30pm, Sun 7pm. Sonnenallee 225. €20, from €60 with dinner. Off Map

Havanna The place to go for salsa, merengue, bachata, R&B, and Reggaeton. Check website for program. www. havanna-berlin.de. Hauptstr. 30. T: 030.7848565. S Julius-Leber-Brücke, U Eisenacher Straße. D5

at CineStar Original, IMAX, and KulturBrauerei!

Enjoy Berlin’s widest range of undubbed English versions all-day at CineStar Original and see undubbed versions of documentaries and blockbusters at IMAX as well – on Berlin’s largest screen! Our tip: Every first Tuesday of the month Sneak-previews in original version with german subtitles at KulturBrauerei. More info and tickets at cinestar.de

A massive arena for world-touring pop concerts and sports events, including those of Berlin’s professional ice hockey team, the Eisbären. 5 May: Enrique Iglesias. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de. Mühlenstr. 12–30. T: 030.2060708899. U Warschauer Straße. G4

Quasimodo One of Berlin’s historic music

In its ‘36 Hours’ travel cafés. Diversified program with feature, the New York Times many musical styles, from jazz lists the Friedrichstadt-Palast to blues, R&B to soul. www. as one of the top 10 quasimodo.de. Kantstr. 12a. must-see places in T: 030.31804560. S+U Zoologischer Berlin.

Estrel Festival Center Berlin

Triple Englishness

Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin

Garten. C4

SO36 The heart of Kreuzberg’s radical scene. The Dead Kennedys and Die Toten Hosen played here a few times, while today’s program ranges from punk and hard rock concerts to flea markets and tea afternoons. www.so36.de. Oranienstr. 190. T: 030.61401306. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Tempodrom This large concert building resembling a circus tent – and situated on the former grounds of the now-gone Anhalter Bahnhof – hosts an array of events, from classical concerts and pop-rock productions to mixed martial arts and dance. 8 May: Thunder from Down Under. 19 May: Bryan Ferry. 20 May: Carmina Burana. 21 May: The

The Many Sides Of The Squeezebox Everyone knows the accordion, of course, but it’s safe to say you’ve never known it quite like this before. The 9th annual Akkordeonale Festival is coming to town, showcasing the amazing diversity of the instrument affectionately known as the squeezebox (or hell’s bellows). Though it was only invented in the 1820s, the accordion spread rapidly around the world throughout the following decades, thanks largely to immigrants who brought an accordion with them to their new home. At the Akkordeonale concert at Passionskirche (Marheinekeplatz 1) on 6 May, five different musicians from five different countries will give a taste of the instrument’s colorful potential, from Bavarian grooves to Madagascar rhythms to jazzy French joie de vivre. www.akkordeonale.de

ALEVKA NIKITINA, PHOTO BY OLGA SUCHODEVA

Columbiahalle/C-Halle

The early-1900s brewery complex now houses various restaurants and art spaces, with a rich combination of programs, as well as a very popular street-food market most Sundays. www. kulturbrauerei.de. Schönhauser Allee 36. T: 030.44352614. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

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THEATER, CABARET & MUSICALS

Admiralspalast One of Berlin’s few preserved pre-WWII variety venues offers an international, high-caliber program of musicals, cabaret, and concerts in an elegant hall from the 1920s. www.admiralspalast. de. Friedrichstr. 101. T: 030.47997499. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

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Bar Jeder Vernunft A 1912 tent housing song-and-dance shows, comedy, and cabaret. Many shows in German only. www.bar-jeder-vernunft.de. Schaperstr. 24. T: 030.8831582. U Spichernstraße. C4

Blue Man Group The unmistakable Blue Man Group has its own permanent theater, the Bluemax Theater, where the blue-domed performers present an energetic combination of music, art, pantomime, and comedy. The few spoken words are in English. Shows take place almost every night. Check website for info. www.stage-entertainment.de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

MIX ALL MUSIC TO START A PARTY! Just plug in your MP3 player, laptop or Bluetooth® transmitter.

Chamäleon Variete An old ballroom where it is not unusual to see trapeze artists, jugglers, tap dancers, and cabaret singers. All month: Scotch and Soda – Circus. Jazz. Served Straight Up! www.chamaeleonberlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 40/41. T: 030.4000590. S Hackescher Markt. E2

Friedrichstadt-Palast

STORE: SCHÖNHAUSER ALLEE 44A, 10435 BERLIN

POKKETMIXER.COM

Discover Europe’s capital of nightlife

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Special effects, glitzy Vegas-style live show productions at this modern theater. All month: The One, Grand Show, a dreamlike journey through time in search of the person we love. www.palast.berlin Friedrichstr. 107. T: 030.23262326. U Friedrichstraße. E3

Quatsch Comedy Club This popular club hosts frequent stand-up comedy shows and a regular English-language night. www. quatschcomedyclub.de. Friedrichstr. 107. Toll number: 01806.999000969. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Schaubühne A popular West Berlin theater in the 1960 and 1970s, this Ku’damm performance venue still hosts some interesting productions. Check website for program. www.schaubuehne.de. Kurfürstendamm 153. U Adenauerplatz. C4

Tipi am Kanzleramt The big tent in the Tiergarten has a vast program of musicals, magic, cabaret, dance, and theater. Many shows are in German. 23–27 May: Ennio, the Living Paper Cartoon. www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de. Große Querallee. T: 030.39066550. U Bundestag. D3

Wintergarten Varieté This sumptuous variety theater that has earned a reputation for its revitalized Vaudeville-inspired productions, as well as world-famous acts. All month: LIKE BERLIN, five shows a week. www. wintergarten-berlin.de. Potsdamer Str. 96. T: 030.588433. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D4

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ALEVKA NIKITINA, PHOTO BY OLGA SUCHODEVA

E K I L S T I L R L I E P S M S RLIN BE

Dire Straits Experience. www.tempodrom.de. Möckernstr. 10. Toll number: 0186.554111. S Anhalter Bahnhof. E4

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NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE

This photo, and below left: Kugelbahn Wedding.

Try your hand at kegeln, an old-school German bar game similar to bowling. Hilda Hoy scoped out a few worthy venues. From darts to pool, dancing to karaoke, there’s no shortage of activities to get up to when spending a night out at the bar. One classic pastime in local watering holes is kegeln, better known in English as skittles, a pared-down version of bowling that was all the rage in the early 20th century. Though many of Berlin’s kegeln lanes, or Kegelbahnen, have disappeared over the years, a number have survived, scattered in bars and basements across the city. Given how popular the lanes are most nights of the week, it seems this beloved bar game isn’t going to disappear anytime soon. Right in the popular bar district of Kreuzberg, Tante Lisbeth (Muskauer Str. 49, www.tante-lisbeth.de) is a convenient place to try your hand at kegeln. The ground-floor bar has a cozy ambience thanks to mismatched vintage furniture and plenty of flickering candles, but it’s tucked away in the basement where you’ll find the charmingly retro Kegelbahn lanes and lounge area. Because the

wooden floors aren’t oiled, no special bowling shoes are needed, though that also makes the behavior of the ball less predictable (and the game all the more fun). Head back up to the bar once the game’s up, where the winner can celebrate and the losers can drown their sorrows. For a few rounds of kegeln towards the north end of the city, Kugelbahn Wedding (Grüntaler Str. 51, www.kugelbahnwedding.com) is the place. The owners have transformed the space from a grungy dive bar into a hip, lively, and welcoming space, leaving, of course, the set of 1950s kegeln lanes intact. The other big draw here are the concerts and DJ nights,

so when your wrists are ready for a rest, take a seat in the bar area for some musical entertainment. There are also lanes at nearby Bornholmer Hütte (Bornholmer Str. 89), which is the unrenovated, old-school, real deal, a neighborhood watering hole undeterred by the latest hipster bar trends. In fact, their lanes are said to be the oldest in Berlin, dating back to the early 1900s. That also means it’s not automated and the nine pins need to be placed again by hand after every throw, but hey, that’s part of the charm. Just remember that wherever you go, it’s recommended to book the lanes in advance to avoid disappointment. Let’s roll!

INSET, TOP LEFT, MIDDLE: KEGELBAHN AACHEN CC BY-SA 2.0 BY FLICKR USER HEIPEI. BOTTOM RIGHT: KEGELBAHN, CC BY-SA 2.0 BY FLICKR USER ANA ULIN. TOP RIGHT AND BOTTOM LEFT: COURTESY OF KUGELBAHN WEDDING.

Let The Good Times Roll

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NIGHTLIFE

BEER Ankerklause A canal-side tavern where drinks come with beautiful views of passing boats. Daily from 10am (Mon from 4pm). www.ankerklause.de. Kottbusser Damm 104. T: 030.6935649. U Schönleinstraße. F4

Café am Neuen See and Biergarten A pleasant lakeside beer garden inside the verdant Tiergarten park. Open daily from breakfast onwards. www.cafeamneuensee.de. Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930. S Tiergarten. C3

Club der Visionäre This canal-side boat-shack attracts young crowds till early morning and beyond. Daily from 2pm until very late (from noon Sat & Sun). www. clubdervisionaere.com. Am Flutgraben 1. T: 030.69518942. U Schlesisches Tor, S Treptower Park. G4

Dicke Wirtin This old Berliner Kneipe restaurant is a Charlottenburg institution. Great beer and traditional German dishes. Daily from 11am. www.dicke-wirtin.de. Carmerstr. 9. T: 030.3124952. S Savignyplatz, S+U Zoologischer Garten. B4

Prater Berlin’s oldest Biergarten serves simple and homely cuisine, seasonal specialties, and lots of beer of course! Daily from 6pm (from noon Sat). www.pratergarten.de. Kastanienallee 7-9. T: 030.4485688. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Schleusenkrug A relaxing spot for beer lovers amid the lush greenery of the Tiergarten. German specialties to go with your beer include a variety of cakes, Flammkuchen, and a few breakfast options. Daily from 11am. www.schleusenkrug.de. Müller-BreslauStr. T: 030.3139909. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

Spielbank Berlin A modern casino offering three floors of fun and games, including 20 tables of roulette, blackjack, and an extensive variety of poker options, as well as 350 gaming machines. Daily from 11am. www. spielbank-berlin.de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1. T: 030.255990. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3/D4

WINE & COCKTAILS Bar Tausend Celebrities mingle while watching the expert mixologists do their magic at this futuristic bar. Thu–Sat from 7:30pm. www.tausendberlin. com. Schiffbauerdamm 11. T: 030.27582070. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3 COURTESY OF BIKINI BERLIN.

CC BY-SA 2.0 BY FLICKR USER ANA ULIN. TOP RIGHT AND BOTTOM LEFT: COURTESY OF KUGELBAHN WEDDING.

CASINOS

Fragrances The Ritz-Carlton’s bar is the world’s only to pair cocktails with perfumes. Each drink is represented by a tester bottle of the perfume it’s based on and a photo illustrating the final presentation, which ranges from playful to whimsical. www.

Monkeying Around When the newly renovated Bikini Berlin complex opened in early 2014, the city’s western district of Charlottenburg not only gained a new destination for shopping, but one for nightlife as well. Up on the penthouse level of the 25hours Hotel Bikini Berlin is Monkey Bar, a cocktail spot that was destined for popularity thanks to its hip vibe and incredible view over Tiergarten park – including, as the bar’s name cheekily references, a prime peek down into the zoo’s monkey enclosure. Huge floor-to-ceiling windows and casual, pillow-strewn lounge seating, regular DJ appearances, and a terrace for fresh air are just a few of the draws, as well as cocktail specialties like a spicy basil Gin & Tonic or a cool and refreshing Monkey’s Slushy with gin, elderflower liqueur, and grapefruit. As it’s a popular spot on most evenings, get there early to snag a coveted spot by the windows. Budapester Str. 40. T: 030.120221210. www.25hours-hotels.com

ritzcarlton.com. Potsdamer Platz 3. T:030.337777. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

The Grand

www.esplanade.de. Grand Hotel Esplanade Berlin, Lützowufer 15. T: 030.254780. Bus M29, stop Lützowplatz. D4

A former school building has been transformed into a super-hip restaurant, bar and club all mixed into one. Enjoy top cocktails and a selection of cigars on the green leather couches in the 1920s-inspired bar, then dance the night away in the chic, intimate club. www.the-grand-berlin.com. Hirtenstr. 4. T: 030.2789099555. S+U Alexanderplatz. B4

LaBanca Bar

Green Door Cocktail Bar

Cigars, champagne, whiskey, and cocktails define this bar, which is entirely dedicated to fashion photographer Helmut Newton. Daily 10am–3am (until 4am Fri–Sat). www.newton-bar.de. Charlottenstr. 57. T: 030.20295421. U Französische Straße. E3

One of Berlin’s most relaxing cocktail bars, with a retro style and lots of kitsch décor. The cocktail list is long and the barman famous. Daily 6pm–3am (Fri–Sat until 4am). www.greendoor.de. Winterfeldtstr. 50. T: 030.2152515. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

Harry’s New York Bar An international drink menu with 200+ different cocktails, served to a jazz soundtrack. Mon–Sat from 4pm. It's the right time of year to head to Luise Dahlem (www.luise-dahlem.de) for some beer and pizza under the trees.

The Hotel de Rome’s bar team specializes in avantgarde cocktails made with unusual ingredients such as balsamic vinegar, rose petals, or ginger beer. Live music Wed–Sat, rooftop terrace in summer. www.hotelderome.com. Behrenstr. 37. T: 030.4606090. U Französische Straße. E3

Newton Bar

Reingold A classic cocktail bar, 1920s style. Elegant leather sofas, sumptuous lighting, and gilded elements with a soundtrack ranging from soul and funk to R&B. Tue–Sat from 7pm. www.reingold.de. Novalisstr. 11. T: 030.28387676. U Oranienburger Tor. E2

Schwarzes Café A 24-hour combination of a bar and a café, with a good selection of beer and wine and hot meals at any time of night. Lovely garden. 24h a day except Tue from 3–10am. www.schwarzescafe-berlin.de. Kantstr. 148. T: 030.3138038. U Uhlandstraße, U Savignyplatz. B4 www.wheretraveler.com 53

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ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE USEFUL INFORMATION Emergency numbers Police, call 110 free from any phone. Berlin Police hotline, T: 030.46644664. Ambulance or fire, call 112 free from any phone. Medical Services, T: 030.310031. 24h Pharmacy: Hauptbahnhof Apotheke.

T: 030.20614190. S Hauptbahnhof. Emergency dental services, T: 030.89004333. Poison hotline, T: 030.19240. National emergency number for on-call medical service, T: 116117. Berlin lost and found office, T: 030.902773101.

BERLIN AIRPORTS Berlin Tegel (TXL) Approx. 10 km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By bus: Buses 109 or X9 to Zoologischer Garten

Nobody knows the city better than your expert concierge. Benjamin Mönkemöller from Hotel de Rome is here to help. www.lcdg.org What does your perfect day look like? My perfect day starts with a big breakfast at Hallmann & Klee (Böhmische Str. 13), followed by a bike ride through Berlin, taking in music shops such as Bis auf's Messer (www.bisaufsmesser.com), Coretex (www.coretexrecords.com), and Dodo Beach (www.dodobeach.de) and going past the magnificent Rum Depot in Schöneberg. Then dinner at my favorite Italian, Maselli (Nostitzstr. 49), and live music in Kreuzberg at SO36, Cortina Bob, or Urban Spree. Where do you take your own visitors? It depends on who they are, but I always take my guests to Tempelhofer Feld and the Maybachufer markets. A beer at Ankerklause (www.ankerklause.de) is also a must. What are your insider tips for Berlin? If you like Vietnamese food, definitely visit the Dong Xuan Center (www.dongxuanberlin.de) in Lichtenberg for the best and most authentic pho (noodle soup). Zigarren Herzog am Hafen (Stralauer Allee 9), with its walk-in humidor, great drinks, and excellent espresso served on the sunny terrace is also great. What do you do after work? I like to meet friends for a cool

Quartiermeister beer at Südblock (Admiralstr. 1-2). Tell us about your hotel. The Hotel De Rome building is the former headquarters of Dresdner Bank. The old vault now houses a swimming pool, and the old teller area is now a big ballroom. The five-star hotel stands for exceptional hospitality, tasty food, and first-class facilities. What is your wildest experience as a concierge? Once, a guest had an especially obscure request: a balloon filled with live butterflies for a kid's birthday. We had to decline, of course. A German specialty? This is obvious: Currywurst with fries! And do not forget your beer! How is Berlin different from other cities? Berlin is simply different – it always happens differently than you think. You either hate it or love it. A romantic suggestion? To relax, definitely Vabali Spa (but midweek!), or Cecilienhof park in Potsdam. Images: The Ankerklause bar in Kreuzberg; a bike in the park; Vabali spa. Inset: Benjamin Mönkemöller.

Berlin Schönefeld (SXF) Approx. 20 km (12 miles) southeast of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By regional train: Deutsche Bahn-operated

RE7 or RB14 to Ostbahnhof, Alexanderplatz, Hauptbahnhof, and Zoologischer Garten. RE9 to Hauptbahnhof via Südkreuz and Potsdamer Platz. Trains take approx. 45 mins. Tickets cost €3.40. By S-Bahn: Trains S9 and S45 to Hauptbahnhof, via Ostkreuz and Südkreuz respectively, run. every 20 mins, taking approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.40. By U-Bahn: Bus X7 and X11 to Rudow station connect with the U-Bahn system and run every 10 mins. Journey approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.40. By (night) bus: Arrivals between midnight and 4am Mon–Fri can take bus N7 to central areas. By taxi: Regular cabs take approx. 30 mins to city center, costing €30–€40. Left luggage: At the multi-storey car park P4. T: 030.60911150.

GETTING AROUND Public Transport www.bvg.de.

Fares Buy tickets from machines in the station, and be sure to validate them in the posts next to the ticket machines. Single tickets cost €2.80; or save by paying €9 for four single-trip tickets, which you can validate as you need. If traveling fewer than three train stations or six bus or tram stops, buy a short-trip ticket for €1.70. Day tickets cost €7 for unlimited travel until 3am the following day, or if you are traveling with others, a small group ticket will get up to five people unlimited travel for €19.90. For those staying longer, a pass valid for seven days may be a better value at €30.

ANKERKLAUSE: © WOLFGANG BORRS; VABALI SPA: COURTESY OF VABALI SPA; BIKE: © ISTOCK.

ASK THE CONCIERGE

run every 10 mins, taking approx. 20 mins. The TXL express bus to Alexanderplatz via Hauptbahnhof runs every 5–10 mins, taking. 25 mins. Single tickets cost €2.80 and can be bought on board. By U-Bahn: Bus 109 or X9 connects to the U-Bahn system at Jakob-Kaiser-Platz. Bus 128 links to the U-Bahn at Kurt-Schumacher-Platz and runs every 10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. Tickets cost €2.80. By taxi: Regular cabs take 10–20 mins to city center. Approx. €20–€35. Left luggage: Service center in Terminal A (ground floor). T: 030.41012315.

54 W H E R E B E R L I N I M AY 2017

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U-Bahn The underground system is extensive. Most lines run every five minutes (less frequently outside working hours), 4am–12:30am (replaced by night buses outside of these times). The entire U-Bahn and S-Bahn network runs all night on weekends.

S-Bahn The above-ground system is faster than the U-Bahn but less frequent. Trains run every 10–20 mins. Timing and ticket rules apply as above.

Public Ferries With a regular BVG ticket ,you can hop on one of the six public ferry lines. Most beautiful is the trip from Wannsee to lakeside Kladow village; ferries leave every hour and take about 20 minutes.

Rail Travel Deutsche Bahn is the railway company that manages the Regional Bahn (RB) and Regional Express (RE) trains, operating around greater Berlin and Potsdam. The Intercity (IC) and European City (EC) trains travel further afield. www.bahn.de. Toll number: 0180.6996633.

Rent A Bike Explore Berlin by bike.

Wittenbergplatz Wittenbergplatz station is easily one of the city’s most picturesque. The striking Art Nouveau entrance hall was originally built in 1913, and despite sustaining significant damages in WWII, has been carefully restored to fit the building’s landmark status. Classic ads and decorative tiles adorn many of the walls, and look out for a sign on platform 1 in the distinctive red-circled style of the London Underground – a 1952 gift from London for the BVG’s 50th birthday.

Taxis

Tax-Free Shopping

Würfelfunk: T: 030.210101.

German law entitles all non-EU residents to a VAT tax refund. Look for stores displaying the Premier Tax Free sign and ask for a "tax-free form." When leaving the EU, goods and the completed form must be shown to a customs agent, from which a customs stamp must be obtained no more than three months after the date of purchase. Goods must be unused. Present the stamped form at the refund counter in the airport, or send it to Premier Tax Free as soon as you reach your destination. www.premiertaxfree.com.

MONEY SERVICES

Deutsche Bahn Call-a-Bike service:

Banks and Foreign Exchange

www.callabike.de. Berlin and Bike: www.berlinandbike.de. T: 0163.5120124.

Exchange AG: Friedrichstr. 172. T: 030.20649296. Deutsche Bank: Kurfürstendamm 111. T: 030.8904370.

Rent a Car

American Express: T: 069.97972000 Diners Club: T: 07531.3633111 MasterCard: T: 0800.8191040 Visa: T: 0800.8118440

Avis: www.avis.com. T: 0180.6217702 (toll number) Europcar: www.europcar.com. T: 040.52018765 Hertz: www.hertz.com. T: 0180.6003690

STATIO OF N MONTTHE H

Lost Cards and Cheques

MAP LICENSE NUMBER: BVG-0050.16; UBAHN: © ISTOCK PHOTO.

ANKERKLAUSE: © WOLFGANG BORRS; VABALI SPA: COURTESY OF VABALI SPA; BIKE: © ISTOCK.

ESSENTIALS

www.wheretraveler.com 55

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10/04/2017 13:34

WHERE NOW | SEBASTIAN STUDNITZKY

SEBASTIAN STUDNITZKY MUSICIAN

Sebastian Studnitzky doesn’t believe in boundaries when it comes to his music. Trained in both piano and trumpet, he is well known for his work in the jazz scene but also incorporates diverse influences, from classical to electronic, into his everchanging crossover style. See him play live at Lido on 6 May, where he’ll launch his newest album as part of XJAZZ (p. 47), a festival he founded in 2014. memento.studnitzky.de

How would you describe your music to someone who’s never heard it? My latest album sounds electronic, yet is played entirely acoustically. I love beautiful melodies and moving between different styles. For me, the most important thing in music is the mood, the vibe. How is your newest album, KY organic, different from prior ones? My last album, MEMENTO, was recorded together with an orchestra, so it’s actually quite the opposite of KY organic, which has a very small and intimate instrumentation. You play both piano and trumpet, and your music bridges a number of genres. Has Berlin, as a place that is also multifaceted, influenced your style in this regard? Berlin has a super creative jazz scene and at the same time, it’s also a hotspot for electronic music and classical music too. There aren’t many cities in which the music scenes are as open to each other, and respectful of influences from one another, as here in Berlin. The XJAZZ Festival is our way of trying to represent this multiplicity. How long have you been in Berlin? How would you describe the music scene here? I’ve been here since 2000. What really appeals to me is the openness and aliveness of the music scene. There are constantly great new

musicians coming here. This means that nobody can sit back and stay stationary – everyone has to stay creative all the time and keep developing as musicians. I find this very inspirational. What are your favorite places in the city to listen to music? I like the small jazz clubs, such as A-Trane (www.a-trane.de) and Zig Zag (www.zig-zagjazzclub.berlin), but also orchestra concerts at the Philharmonie. I also like the vibe in the many offbeat locations, which are often temporary spots. The XJAZZ Festival is also about showing contrasts. The concerts take place at locations like the Watergate club, Lido, and Privatclub, but also in Kreuzberg’s Emmauskirche church. Other than your concert, which shows in this month’s XJAZZ Festival (p. 47) are on your must-see list? I’m a fan of Grégory Privat from Martinique and Petros Klampanis from Greece – both proper jazz cats. But I’m also into Ätna, from Dresden. Azerbaijani pianist Isfar Sarabski is fantastic – he’ll be playing a duo show with both saxophone and piano/organ.

Which neighborhood do you live in, and what drew you to it? I live in Friedrichshain, near Ostkreuz. I’ve got my favorite cafés here, Safé on Sonntagstraße (www.cafe-safe.de) and Tres Cabezas on Boxhagener Straße (www.trescabezas.de). Bakeries and restaurants are just around the corner, and I’m close to the river at Rummelsburger Bucht. I like kicking a ball around with my son on Lenbachplatz and going to the market on Boxhagener Platz. Imagine it’s a beautiful day and you’re free to spend it however you choose. What would your perfect Berlin day look like? I would take my bike on the regional train out to a lake in Brandenburg. Liepnitzsee is my favorite. Tempelhofer Feld is another of my regular destinations. When it’s really warm out, I like going to Molinari & Ko in Kreuzberg (www. molinari-ko.de) to sit in the shade with a white wine and something to eat.

Clockwise from top left: A Friedrichshain café; Sebastian Studnitzky; Tempelhofer Park; neighborhood market in Boxhagener Platz; Studnitzky's album; The river bank in Rummelsburg.

F'HAIN: CC BY-SA 2.0 VIA FLICKR USER LA CITTA VITA; STUDNITZKY: PHOTO BY SEVI TSONI; TEMPELHOFER PARK: © ISTOCK; RUMMELSBURG CC BY S.0 VIA FLICKR USER ROBERT AGTHE; BOXHAGENER MARKET: CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 VIA FLICKR USER ARTIE.

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