Where Berlin November 2016 by Morris Media Network

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Berlin

CONTENTS

11.16 See more of Berlin at wheretraveler.com

The Plan Let’s get started

The Guide The best of Berlin

SHOPPING

5 Editor’s Note

6 Hot Dates

As winter beckons, take stock of everything you need to keep cozy.

Highlights of the month's can't-miss events, from the Red Hot Chili Peppers and jazz to Berlin's Christmas markets.

6 10

SIGHTSEEING

Discover the city's sites, from Berlin Underworlds to the Spandau Citadel. Comfy shoes are mandatory.

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

4XX2

DINING

48 XX

Hungry for hummus? This beloved food of the Middle East has found its rightful place on Berlin's food scene.

66 My Berlin Lukas Opielka This local chef shares his tips on Berlin's food scene.

Also Inside

Classical piano takes center stage this month.

62 Ask The Concierge

Friedrichshain: the quintessential nightlife hub.

Where Now

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Winter coziness, © Istock.

Visit these sites of German resistance against the Nazis.

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Gift-giving inspiration to get you into the festive mood.

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SHOPPING | ENTERTAINMENT | CULTURE | DINING | MAPS

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Berlin shows its wintry side

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Berlin Station star Michelle Forbes shares her favorite local vegan eateries.

The Kreuzberg of yesteryear lives on vividly in the photos of Steffen Osterkamp.

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14 Back in the '70s

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10 Bring On The Veggies

From transport to emergency numbers, find useful information for your stay in Berlin.

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

ESSENTIALS

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NIGHTLIFE

Carina Gerber, concierge at The Ritz-Carlton Berlin, is full of recommendations. NO V EMBER 2 0 16 W HER E T R AV EL ER . C OM

ENTERTAINMENT

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JAZZ FESTIVAL: COURTESY OF JAZZ FESTIVAL; BERLIN WALL, PHOTO BY STEFFEN OSTERKAMP; VEGAN DISH, COURTESY OF LUCKY LEEK; WATCH BY MICHAEL KORS.; ZOO PALAST: © ISTOCK PHOTO.

The fascinating nightmares of Dutch painter Hieronymus Bosch.

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WELCOME TO BERLIN

Here Comes The Moon The northern winter is upon us, with its short days and dropping temperatures. But the human species is quite an adaptable one, and Germans have found ways to make the most out of the winter darkness by adding a degree of coziness for every lux lost each day. This is precisely why I like November so much. I love the contrast between the city's warm interiors and the cold air outside, between the dark skies and the lights inside the shops. I adore the warm foods and all of the season's ingredients, and the buzzing, pre-Christmas industriousness I see around me. This fall, our office has been busy selecting winter activities and new sights for you to explore, from delicious vegan restaurants (p. 10) to sober historic memorials (p. 36) and fabulous piano concerts (p. 54). And while Annabelle Mallia tested coffee in a futuristic Microsoft café (p. 52), Hilda Hoy went on a trip back to 1976 to visit a Wall-surrounded Kreuzberg (p. 14). And since Christmas is around the corner, we've also selected a few products to inspire your gift shopping in Berlin (p. 16). Enjoy your stay!

PORTRAIT BY THOMAS HEDRICH/FOTOSTUDIO-CHARLOTTENBURG; SKYLINE © TOTALPICS/ISTOCK/THINKSTOCK

SOLVEIG STEINHARDT EDITOR, WHERE BERLIN

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HOT

DATES November in Berlin is packed with fabulous events, from jazz concerts all over town to dance shows and Christmas markets.

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CHRISTMAS MARKETS FROM MONDAY

No holiday season in Berlin is complete without visiting at least one of its many charming Christmas markets, which seem to pop up anywhere thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s open space in the city. Starting in late November, visitors can browse an assortment of arts and crafts, sample homemade sweets, listen to live music, and of course sip spiced mulled wine amid the dipping temperatures. Find a full list on www.visitberlin.de

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Where now | calendar

3 14

Red Hot Chili Peppers THURSDAY

Catapulted to fame with the catchy Californication, the Red Hot Chili Peppers is one of the most iconic alternative rock bands of the past three decades. They will be taking center stage at Mercedes-Benz Arena as part of a tour to promote their newest, and 11th, album The Getaway with songs such as Dark Necessities and Goodbye Angels, along with some classic hits. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de

Interfilm FESTIVAL From MONday

With over 500 short films from 100 countries, this cinematic competition is about as eclectic as it gets. Spread out at theatres across Berlin, this seven-day-long visual feast includes a special focus on China and Italy, a competition devoted to "green films," a selection of 3D animation, and an international food bonanza. Are you an aspiring filmmaker yourself? Check out the Script Pitch event. www.interfilm.de

Jewish culture days From Saturday

Berlin's rich Jewish culture is showcased in one week of comedy shows, Ladino folk music, klezmer concerts, synagogue visits, and food tastings at various venues around the city. www.juedische-kulturtage.org www.wheretraveler.com â&#x20AC;&#x2021; 7

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November Körper by Sasha Waltz From Wednesday

Germany, the birthplace of the late legendary choreographer Pina Bausch, is known for its innovation on stage. The sweeping movements of Sasha Waltz & Guests are no exception. See the dance troupe in Körper (Bodies) at the Haus der Berliner Festspiele, an engaging performance that creatively questions what the body is and how it’s constructed. Until 27 November. www.berlinerfestspiele.de

Bazaar Berlin From Wednesday

This bustling trade show of international crafts is a chance to peruse the colorful world of handmade objects, from woven Yemeni baskets to West African wooden statues, at Messe Berlin, the city’s largest exhibition grounds. This year’s fiveday event is broken up into themes, such as Fair Trade, Arts & Style, and Winter at Home. www.bazaar-berlin.de

JazzFest Berlin

From TUESday

Founded in 1964, Berlin's jazz festival has grown into one of the most prestigious festivals of its kind in the world, combining an eclectic mix of contemporary and classic tunes from musicians from over 30 countries for an entire week. This year, listen to the likes of Berlin-based pianist Julia Hülsmann and the Global Unity Orchestra, who first made their debut at the festival in 1966, among many others. Concerts take place at various locations, including the Haus der Berliner Festspiele, Quasimodo jazz Club, and A-Trane. Buy tickets at www.berlinerfest spiele.de.

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Hot Dates

songstress Amanda Palmer 1 Rocking serenades her fans at PBHF Club tonight. Chamäleon Theater to see their newest 2 Visit circus show, the exciting & joy-filled Underart. a Staatsballet show of edgy modern 3 Admire choreography in Duato | Kylián. house duo Booka Shade presents 4 German their new LP at Heimathafen Neukölln. a Saturday night out on the town at 5 Enjoy Mitte’s super-trendy Neue Odessa Bar. a stirring performance of Verdi’s 6 Hear Requiem inside the Berliner Dom cathedral. Brit rockers Placebo play 7 Superstar Mercedes-Benz Arena tonight. Puccini’s wrenching melodrama Tosca 8 See performed at the Deutsche Oper. wild spectacle of WWE wrestling will 9 The pack the Mercedes-Benz Arena tonight. bagpipes really rock? See the Red Hot 10 Can Chili Pipers at Columbia-Theater to believe it. comes early: See the Staatsballett 11 Christmas dance holiday classic The Nutcracker. a big Saturday night out? Enjoy 12 Fancy dinner, drinks, and dancing at The Grand. on a big weekend brunch, like the 13 Splurge Russian spread at Datscha, Gabriel-Max-Str. 1. out the diverse program of the Interfilm 14 Check short film festival, getting underway today. a musical lunch break at the 15 Take Philharmonie’s free “lunch concert” at 1pm. a flick at CineStar Potsdamer Platz, 16 Catch which specializes in movies in English. on international delicacies at the Street 17 Feast Food Thursday event at Markthalle Neun. ‘90s hip hop icons Digable Planets 18 Groovy perform live at Cassiopeia tonight. to the Philharmonie for a woodwind 19 Head concert with Berlin Symphony Orchestra. antique fans, the Sunday flea market on 20 For Tiergarten’s Straße des 17. Juni is a must. the Glühwein drinking begin! The major 21 Let Christmas markets are open for the season. and warm up in the steamy saunas and 22 Relax flotation pool of Kreuzberg’s Liquidrom Spa. the acclaimed dance piece by Sasha 23 Körper, Waltz, is on at Haus der Berliner Festspiele. gender-bending singer-performer 24 See Peaches play live at Columbiahalle. a cool foreign film at the Around the 25 Catch World in 14 Films festival at the Kulturbrauerei. the famous bust of Nefertiti, queen 26 Admire of Ancient Egypt, at the Neues Museum. to Friedrichstadtpalast for The One, a 27 Head splendid show featuring Gaultier costumes. Charlottenburg Palace to take a wintry 28 Visit stroll through the elegant gardens. on the wild side at Berlin’s famed zoo, 29 Walk located at the edge of Tiergarten park. an afternoon Espresso Concert at 30 Enjoy Konzerthaus – it’s “caffeine for the ears.”

Christmas market: © istock photo; Red Hot Chili Peppers: Photo by Steve Keros, courtesy of Red Hot Chili Peppers; Interfilm: courtesy of interfilm festival; simon marlow © NN; Meta Hueper © NN; Körper © Bernd Uhlig; Bazaar Berlin: © Fancybox.de; Charles Lloyd © promo.

Where now | calendar

For For more more ideas, ideas, see see our our Entertainment Entertainment section. section

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Exclusive premium brands at irresistible prices! Discover the wide selection of Heinemann Duty Free. You can expect an exclusive range of international brands such as Johnnie Walker, Jägermeister, Lancôme or Lindt at favourable duty free prices. Whether perfume, cosmetics or fine liqueurs – here you will find the perfect product for every taste. We are looking forward to your visit! Order your favourite items conveniently online up to 24 hours before your departure time and pick them up upon your return flight.

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Actress Michelle Forbes samples plant-based delicacies at Prenzlauer Bergâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Rawtastic

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Where BERLIN | Dining in Berlin

Michelle forbes: Stephanie Kulbach for EPIX & Paramount; Food images courtesy of lucky leek, veganz, and rawtastic.

bring on the

Hot off the set of the new spy drama Berlin Station, show star Michelle Forbes shares her favorite vegan nosheries with Jenna Rose Robbins.

VEGGIES M ichelle Forbes closes her eyes as she savors the last bite of burger. “Tastes like my childhood,” she says, smiling at the memory. The only difference between that burger and those of Forbes’ youth is that no animal was harmed in its making. At Neukölln’s recently opened Dandy Diner (Karl-Marx-Str. 9, www.dandydiner.de), the simple menu of sandwiches and burgers is completely meat- and dairy-free, which is one reason it’s the first stop on our vegan foodie tour of the city. While the former Star Trek: The Next Generation star rarely eats such fast-food fare herself, she says she’s happy places such as Dandy Diner exist because they introduce vegan cuisine to a wider audience. Forbes has spent the last few months in the German capital shooting Berlin Station, an espionage drama in which she stars as a CIA chief, opposite Richard Armitage and Rhys Ifans. And the actress has fallen in love with the city during that time. One huge draw has been the food, both in restaurants and at shopping options such as Veganz (www.veganz.com), Europe’s first vegan supermarket chain, which has been her goto stop for groceries. During her extended visit, Forbes has lived in Prenzlauer Berg, where she’s discovered several restaurants that have become regular haunts. “Cafe Morgenrot (Kastanienallee 85, www.cafe-morgenrot. de) has become my living room,” she says, as we both eye the last piece of a Dandy Diner avocado sandwich. “Their vegan brunches are absolutely delicious.” Near the top of her most-visited list is

Raw delights from Rawtastic.

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WHERE BERLIN | DINING IN BERLIN

Lucky Leek (www.lucky-leek.com), the upscale P-Berg joint where she brought the cast and crew for dinner. “Everybody really seemed to love it,” she says. “They didn’t realize you could feel so full and satisfied without eating meat.” She also highly recommends Bistro Bardot (Boxhagener Str. 83, www.bistrobardot.de), a cheery Friedrichshain establishment whose pumpkin soup helped get Forbes through the gray winter months. Next stop on our tour is Rawtastic (Danziger Str. 16, www.rawtastic. de), where Forbes once brought co-star Ifans, who quickly became a fan. The actress, who has been a vegetarian since she was 15, went vegan in 2011. “I try not to live my life with regrets, but I regret not doing it sooner,” she says, as we sample a platter of nut-based vegan cheeses. “I don’t want to be complicit with any sort of suffering ever,” she explains, then gets distracted as the waiter delivers our 100-percent raw pizza, which consists of a gluten-free crust, raw tomato sauce, and cashew cream cheese. Although the pie holds little in common to the real thing, it’s nonetheless delicious, and before long, only crumbs remain. “Superlecker! (Delicious!)” she says, repeating a phrase oft used during our day. Forbes is perhaps best known for her roles in The Killing, 24, The Hunger Games: Mockingjay – Part 2, and True Blood, in which she played Maryann the maenad, a role she says was the biggest stretch for her. Although Maryann was a hardcore carnivore and relished the chaos she created, pushing people toward their vices and encouraging violence and gluttony, Forbes remembers the character with fondness. “She was a helluva lot of fun to play!” she says, with her characteristic hearty laugh. With our day of dining wrapping up and her final day of shooting just hours away, Forbes reminisces about her time in Berlin. She says she’ll miss how veganfriendly the city is, even though she lives in Los Angeles, one of the other world capitals of compassionate cuisine. She notes how much the German capital has changed since her previous visit two years earlier, calling the city “a real revelation” on account of its changing culinary scene and progressive stance on a plant-based lifestyle. Asked to sum up Berlin in one word, Forbes smiles mischievously before responding, “Superlecker!”

“I don’t want to be complicit with any sort of suffering ever.”

This photo: Maisbaumkuchen with carrots and crème brûlée and vanilla tomatoes from Lucky Leek. Top left: vegan chili tofu with pak choi, Lucky Leek; Top right: a quinoa salad from Goodies, Veganz’s bistro.

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WHERE BERLIN | BACK TO THE ‘70S

Local children playing in the street, 1976

Political graffiti on the Berlin Wall

KREUZBERG S BEHIND THE BERLIN WALL The Kreuzberg of yesteryear lives on vividly in photos, Hilda Hoy found.

A typical Kreuzberg 36 side street

ince the Berlin Wall came down in November 1989, the city has transformed dramatically. Few areas more so than the Kreuzberg neighborhood around Kottbusser Tor and Görlitzer Park, known as Kreuzberg 36 after its one-time postal code. In the divided city, this area was surrounded on three sides by the Berlin Wall, resulting in cheap rents that attracted not only Turkish migrant workers and immigrants in droves, but also punks, squatters, and subculture groupies who turned the area into one of the wildest, liveliest areas of West Berlin. One of the people living in that “Harlem of

Demolition in Kreuzberg, 1976

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steffen osterkamp, courtesy of claas osterkamp.

Construction of the Neues Kreuzberger Zentrum apartment towers, 1976

Berlin,” as the press of the day was calling it, was Steffen Osterkamp, a social worker at the Youth Welfare Office. From 1973-1981, he lived alone in Dresdener Straße, just behind the big, circular Kottbusser Tor intersection, and though family and friends knew photography was a casual hobby of his, nobody knew to just what extent Steffen was observing his neighborhood with a keen eye. After Steffen died in 1996, his nephew Claas Osterkamp made a remarkable find among his uncle’s belongings: file folders containing some 6000 negatives, most of them never shown to anyone or printed.

Over the years since, Claas has been painstakingly making his way through the pictures to see what they would reveal. What he has digitized so far are more than 900 black-and-white images capturing the many facets of life in a tumultuous Kreuzberg neighborhood, all shot on Steffen’s trusty Minolta and developed in his own darkroom. In some photos, groups of beaming Turkish children play joyfully in the street. In others, solitary subjects hurry past bleak, ramshackle scenes of demolition. Captured in the images are many places that no longer exist: The desolate parking garage across the street is now a kindergarten; the

Turkish tailor down the block is now a hip café. The Kent movie theater across the road used to play all-Turkish films for the local community; today it’s the Babylon theater and screens hip indie movies instead. The furniture shop below Steffen’s former apartment, Möbel Olfe, closed long ago, though its name lives on in a popular gay bar a few doors over. The imposing Berlin Wall that used to stand just two blocks away is, of course, also gone. That era of Kreuzberg may have ended decades ago, but its spirit still lingers today in Kreuzberg 36 – and lives on in Steffen Osterkamp’s once-forgotten photos.

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WHERE NOW | GIFT GUIDE

It's never too early to get into the festive spirit! Claudia Koksch provides inspiration for your pre-holiday shopping with gift ideas for everybody on your list.

JUMPSUIT ONEPIECE Onepiece Concept Store Berlin Litfaßplatz 1.

CUDDLES FOR YOUR IPHONE mabba Bikini Berlin, Budapester Str. 38-50. Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12.

A SPARKLING BAG FOR YOUR SPARKLING NIGHTS Liebeskind Berlin Alexa Center, Grunerstr. 20. Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12. Neue Schönhauser Str. 8.

FOR ENDLESS HUGS Steiff Kurfürstendamm 38. Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12.

FOR THOSE WHO ARE ALWAYS IN A HURRY New Balance Münzstr. 21.

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HOT CHOCOLATE MAKES EVERYTHING BETTER Rausch Schokoladenhaus am Gendarmenmarkt Charlottenstr. 60.

Top Pick

RAINBOW IS MY FAVORITE COLOR Codello Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12.

ADDITIONAL IMAGES © ISTOCK

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WHERE NOW | GIFT GUIDE

P A STYLISH AND PRACTICAL BACKPACK topman KaDeWe, Tautenzienstr. 21-24.

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FALL FOLIAGE YOU CAN WEAR Barbour Heritage Store Berlin Alte Schönhauser Str. 39.

TIME TO CELEBRATE! Michael Kors Kurfürstendamm 219. Rosenthaler Str. 37.

Top Pick

MORE THAN JUST ANOTHER TIE Lester Madrid Wielandstr. 30.

A FOX LAMP TO BRIGHTEN UP YOUR LIFE Pylones Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 3. Kurfürstendamm 225.

SMITTEN ABOUT MITTENS Marc Cain Friedrichstr. 61. Kurfürstendamm 69.

SCENTSATIONAL FRAGRANCES Krigler Hotel Adlon, Unter den Linden 77.

ADDITIONAL IMAGES © ISTOCK

BECAUSE YOU CAN NEVER HAVE ENOUGH BLUE JEANS Replay Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12.

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STORES BERLIN: Kurfürstendamm 36 . 10719 Berlin Tel.: (+49) Ø30 / 88 55 35 65 Leipziger Platz 12 / 13 Shop 1.04 EG . 10117 Berlin Tel.: (+49) Ø30 / 20 64 79 95

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SHOPPING | THE GUIDE

This image: Winterfeldt Schokoladen; Inset below: An all-in-one scarf hoodie by Miriam Shneiderman.

Keeping Cozy And Warm As temperatures go down, Annabelle Mallia looks for ways to warm up. As winter beckons once again, it’s time to stock up on everything we need to keep ourselves warm in the bitterly cold months ahead. They say that keeping your neck and extremities warm will help warm up your entire body, so wool-lined boots, a pair of gloves, and a scarf should be the first items on your list. An all-in-one scarf and hoodie by Berlin designer Miriam Shneiderman (www.shneiderman.de) is the perfect accessory, keeping the chills at bay while guaranteeing you look good at the same time with a selection of stylish prints to choose from (image, right). However, coziness isn’t just about warm clothes. After putting on your favorite slippers and woolly sweater, settle back into the sofa and sip some hot tea to warm you up from the inside. P & T (www.paperandtea.com) has been described as a temple of fine tea and their store in Mitte has a tasting bar serving a variety of

freshly brewed teas to warm up those hands and help with your selection. Pick up a thermos from French gift store Pylones (Kurfürstendamm 225, www. pylones.com) to keep your tea hot on the go, so you can whip it out whenever you start to freeze. Famous for their zoomorphic themes and bright designs, they are sure to add colour to your winter. For that extra boost of endorphins and serotonin needed to counteract the depressing nature of monthlong grey skies, head to Winterfeldt Schokoladen (Goltzstr. 23, www.winterfeldt-schokoladen.de) in Schöneberg to fill your bag with pralines and chocolate bars from some of Europe's best

brands. Before you leave, make sure to sample their super-thick Italian-style or Spanish hot chocolate to revitalize your mood for the rest of the day. Cooking up a spicy storm will have you sweating in no time. A visit to Pfefferhaus (Dircksenstr. 94, www. pfefferhaus.de), the chili specialist in Mitte, is a must for some essential ingredients. But there's nothing like a hot bath when it's cold outside. Located all over the city, Lush (www.lush.com) sells heavenly smelling handmade cosmetics, including a selection of bubble baths, bath bombs, and oils to immerse yourself for hours in a good book – preferably about some faraway tropical land.

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SHOPPING

THE

where GUIDELINES

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Every effort is made to provide accurate and updated information. However, information may be subject to last minute changes, so it is always advisable to call ahead.

INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS T: Telephone number S: S-Bahn, Above-ground train system U: U-Bahn, Underground train system MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 64-65. Opening Hours Opening hours may vary, so it’s best to call ahead. Shops are open Mon–Sat only, and Sunday shopping is only possible on certain Sundays of the year. This year, these are: 6 November, 4 December, 18 December. Groceries can be bought on Sundays at major train stations (Hauptbahnhof, Friedrichstraße, at Ullrich at Zoologischer Garten, or Ostbahnhof ). Shopping malls are open 10am–8pm and smaller stores only until 6pm. Tourist Information VisitBerlin is the official source of information on the city. Call T: 030.25002333 for specific Berlin information, or go to www.visitberlin.de for details on all information centers, events, and sights. Tourist Info Points: Brandenburg Gate – Pariser Platz, daily 9:30am–6pm (until 7pm in summer). Hauptbahnhof – Europaplatz 1, Level 0, daily 8am–9pm. TV Tower Alexanderplatz – Panoramastr. 1a, daily 10am–4pm.

Department stores & malls

Alter Spandauer Weg 1. T: 033234.9040. Take the regional train to Elstal. Off Map

Alexa

This shopping mall on the Ku’damm offers a range of goods from over 70 shops. Check out the ingenious water clock designed by Bernard Gitton in 1982. www.europa-center-berlin.de. Tauentzienstr. 9–12. T: 030.26497940. U Kurfürstendamm, U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Hardcore shoppers love this mall for its sheer size, with over 180 stores spread over five levels. Highstreet retailers are well represented, and a large food court obliges when hunger overwhelms your desire to shop. www.alexacentre.com. Grunerstr. 20. T: 030.269340121. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

BIKINI BERLIN Opened in April 2014, BIKINI BERLIN is an extraordinary urban market square that exemplifies the idea of mixed-use space. Amid the mixture of public and commercial endeavors, the striking rooftop the size of a football field offers sensational views of Tiergarten and access to a plethora of restaurants and shopping attractions. www.bikiniberlin.de. Budapester Str. 42-50. T: 030.55496425. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Designer Outlet Berlin Your favorite designer brands with discounts up to 70 percent, at just 30 minutes from the city center. Also features cafes and restaurants, a children’s play area, free parking and more that 100 international brands. Shuttle bus from center on Fri-Sat. Bring a copy of Where Berlin to the office and get a further 10% off. Mon–Thu 10am–7pm, Fri and Sat to 8pm. www.designeroutletberlin.com.

Europa Center

Galeria Kaufhof The former East German department store, renovated in 2006, showcases more than 600 exclusive brands and an exquisite gourmet section covering 35,000sq.m (377,000sq.ft) of space. www.galeria-kaufhof.de. Alexanderplatz 9. T: 030.247430. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Galeries Lafayette The Berlin branch of the exclusive Parisian department store is developed around an extraordinary glass cone. The three circular floors rise up around this centerpiece, packed with perfumes, clothing, and accessories. The food counter offers a wide range of French specialties and there’s a corner selling teas from the famed French tea house Mariage Frères. www.galerieslafayette.de. Friedrichstr. 76–78. T: 030.209480. U Französische Straße. E3

Kaufhaus des Westens (KaDeWe) The biggest and oldest department store in Germany sells only products of the highest quality. If you're short on time, the legendary gourmet

Alte Schönhauser Str. 39 • 10119 Berlin Barbour_where Berlin_November_178 x120mm + 3mm.indd 1

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SHOPPING

KRIGLER Parfümeur seit 1904

Krigler, perfumer on Unter den Linden since 1904, is also known as the perfumer of the Hotel Adlon.

food hall on the sixth floor is not to be missed. www.kadewe.de. Tauentzienstr. 21–24. T: 030.21210. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Mall of Berlin 270 shops, 270 apartments, gyms, and pedestrian areas define the new Mall of Berlin on Leipziger Platz, a world of shopping opportunities a stone’s throw from the city’s main tourist attractions. www.mallofberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 12. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Potsdamer Platz Arkaden This large shopping center offers more than 120 shops over three floors, stocking everything from clothes and accessories to electronics and groceries. Its restaurants and bars, both inside and in surrounding streets, also make it a very popular meeting spot. www.potsdamer-platz-arkaden.de. Alte Potsdamer Str. 7. T: 030.2559270. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Fashion Barbour & Barbour Heritage Store

“The history of Krigler is filled with passion, intrigue and secrets. His devotees have included John F. Kennedy, Ernest Hemingway, F. Scott Fitzgerald, Marlene Dietrich, Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly...” Vanity Fair, Hollywood issue

DISCOVER THE COLLECTION AT: KRIGLER, Hotel Adlon, Unter den Linden 77, 10117 Berlin Mon-Sun: 11am-8pm | T: +49 30 80494144 | www.krigler.eu

Selected shops for the savvy shopper

Showcasing its collection for women, men, and children, this British label has a trendy, rugged look. Customers can also enjoy a shopping break with tea and coffee on cozy Chesterfield sofas upstairs. www.barbour.com. Kurfürstendamm 26a T: 030.88001773. U Uhlandstraße, U Kurfürstendamm. C4 Alte Schönhauser Str. 39. 030.23456828. U Weinmeister Straße. F2

Basler Founded in Berlin in 1936 and now sold around the globe, Basler stands for femininity and versatility, aiming to make women of all ages and sizes look and feel good. From everyday style to business casual to something elegant for a night out, you’ll find plenty to add to your wardrobe. Second store at Schloßstr. 28. www.basler-fashion.com. Kurfürstendamm 220. T: 030.88472949. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

ben|weide Modern fashion for the 21st-century man. The Berlin-based label uses only the highest-quality materials and ensures all work is done under fair working conditions. www.benweide.com. Mulackstr. 1. T: 030 40054048. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Boggi Milano Italian elegance for men. Specializes in highquality suits that are formal while also remaining comfortable, and also carries a sport casual collection. www.boggi.com. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BOSS The German luxury fashion brand is synonymous with elegance and caters to men, women and kids. www.hugoboss.com. BOSS: Kurfürstendamm 25. T: 030.88624614. U Kurfürstendamm. C4; BOSS: Friedrichstr. 165. T: 030.20613890. U Französische Straße. E3; HUGO: Rosenthaler Str. 49. T: 030.28884550. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2; BOSS: Mall of Berlin. U Mohrenstraße. E3

©istock

By Anne

Berlin

By Anne offers designer fashion from sought-after European labels such as cool Danish brand NÜ, Beate Heymann Street Couture, playful Spanish label Uno Piu Uno, and bags from By Lou Lou, together with other accessories to complement your new outfit. Unique art pieces are also on sale to help you express your individuality in the home or garden. www.byanne.de. Rosenthaler Str. 31. T: 030.28879436. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

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BUY AND SELL PREOWNED LUXURY WATCHES S. Karahan

Expert since 1980

Luxury Watches & Brand Watches Buy / Sell / Service

RheinstraÃ&#x;e 34 I 12161 Berlin I Telefon: 030 851 77 51 I e-Mail: info@juweliersaro.de

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WONDERFUL TO WANDER

T HE CONC E PT SHOPPING MALL Zoologischer Garten Budapester Str. 42 – 50, 10787 Berlin

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shop stop

ROLEX BOUTIQUE

PARFUMSALON

UNIQLO

More than a century of precision craftsmanship comes to the Ku'damm in the form of Germany's first Rolex Boutique. The flagship store offers a distinctive experience, including an exclusive setting and world-class service.

This exclusive perfume boutique has been offering extraordinary fragrances since the 1960s. Mario Worms is an expert in perfume counseling, offering advice on the perfect scent for every client, and the shop's selection includes rare bottles and unusual aromas. Uhlandstraße 173-174. T: 030 8827306 www.parfumsalon.de

High-quality wardrobe essentials for the whole family can be found at this Japanese fashion chain that has taken the world by storm. Deftly marrying fashion with practicality, UNIQLO is especially known for its innovative fabrics and luxurious yet affordable cashmere sweaters. Tauentzienstr. 7B/C. T: 030 29028260 www.uniqlo.com/de

Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030 55669010 rolexboutique.berlin@wempe.de 24 W H E R E B E R L I N I N O V E M B E R 2016

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EXPERIENCE THE UNEXPERIENCED. SEAMLESS DOWN. Say goodbye to stitches. UNIQLO SEAMLESS DOWN represents a revolution in water-repellent, lightweight outerwear- all the way to the zipper. Experience down in a whole new way.

Seamless Down Coat

129,90 €

UNIQLO FLAGSHIP STORE · Tauentzienstraße 7 B/C UNIQLO LEIPZIGER PLATZ · Leipziger Platz 16 UNIQLO HACKESCHER MARKT · Rosenthaler Straße 42 Shop online www.uniqlo.com/de Bitte beachten Sie, dass die Farben und Proportionen der hier abgebildeten Artikel zueinander anders ausfallen können. Dies kann drucktechnisch bedingt sein. Alle Artikel sind erhältlich, solange der Vorrat reicht. 07.10.2016, UNIQLO EUROPE LTD, German Branch, Tauentzienstraße 7 B/C, 10789 Berlin.

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shop stop

BODO DILG GOLDSCHMIEDE

A master in his field, Bodo Dilg creates unique pieces of contemporary jewelry using gold and precious stones against a backdrop of stucco and cement tiles. A stop for soon to wed partners, nestled between the Savignyplatz and luxury-shopping strip Ku'damm. Watch the jeweler as he creates masterpieces right in the store, or browse the showroom, designed to make customers relaxed and comfortable.

BEATRICE VON TRESCKOW

Beatrice creates opulent, bold and colorful clothes for women who like to turn heads. Sumptuous fabrics and detailed embroidery communicate Beatrice's international upbringing and form the hallmarks of the collections' jackets, blouses and dresses.

Grolmanstr. 30/31. T: 030 88675355 www.bodo-dilg.de

Leibnizstr. 60 T: 03030831810 www.beatricevontresckow.com shop stop

SAVIGNYPLATZ STR.

BISMARCK

Ernst-Reuter-Platz

MOMMSENSTR.

Berlingold M NDAM RSTE Ü F R KU

STR. KNESEBECK-

Belle Rebelle

WIELANDSTR.

Lalic

Planet Berlin

Carmerstr. 8. T: 030 51307933 www.goldsteg.de shop stop

FiNNs Mode

STRASSE Rahaus Living Margulies Jeannette Junior ROCKS & ROCKS Loewe Galerie Berlin HYGGE INTERIØR VINI CULTURE Goldschmiede Bodo Dilg

NST

Beatrice von Tresckow

BLEIBTREUSTR.

Tatem

NIEBUHRSTR. Meyer & Nehls

stilwerk Berlin

LMA

LEIBNIZSTR.

Savignyplatz

KANT-

GRO

A real treasure trove for exquisite individual fashion pieces, exciting accessories, and high-quality Italian leather bags for women. You'll find different styles and many different designer brands in a wide price range. Enjoy the relaxed atmosphere and friendly reception. Credit cards accepted and Tax Free possible.

Schuhtick Savignyplatz Anamel Fashion

STR.

NST

KANTSTRASSE

Niessing Berlin

FASANEN-

LMA

UHLANDSTR.

KNESEBECKSTR.

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Zeppelin Mode Goldsteg Chapeaux Hüte und Mützen Goldschmiede-Kutzbach Cimp Schmuckdesign Paper & Tea

GOLDSTEG DESIGNER OUTLET

Zoologisch er Garten

SCHLÜTERSTR.

HERDERSTR.

GOETHESTR.

LEIBNIZSTR.

SCHILLERSTR.

Uhlandstraße Catherine Nail Salon

shop stop

CATHERINE BERLIN

FINNS MODE

LALIC SCHMUCK

Catherine Berlin is a hotspot for hand and nail cosmetics. This nail salon hinges upon expert beauticians and products from Catherine Nail Collection. Founded in Germany almost 35 years ago by Ingeborg Frimmel and named after her daughter, the brand is renowned.

Looking to express your individual style? Since 2003, FINNs Mode has been offering women an ample selection of fashion items with a statement, stocking a variety of Italian brands such as Piazza Sempione, Zenggi, Cambio, Le Tricot Perugia, and more. From dresses and skirts to bags and shoes, the items are picked for women "who like to dress well".

This splendid family-run jewelry store prides itself on having been the first jewelry gallery in Germany. Each piece on display is carefully selected by owner Maren Meyer-Ringe, who chooses only handmade and premium-quality items from 30 well-known goldsmiths and designers.

Knesebeckstr. 35-37. T: 030 55214475 www.catherine-berlin.de

Bleibtreustr. 47. www.finns-mode.de

Bleibtreustraße 47. T: 030 8819762 www.lalic-schmuckgalerie.de

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FriedrichstraSSe

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JOH AN NIS STR .

Friedrichstadt-Palast

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Rituals

TR AS SE

Bucherer

Galeries Lafayette

Quartier 206 Umasan

E TA UB EN ST RA SS

Marina Rinaldi Thomas Sabo MaxMara

JÄG ERS TRA SSE

Gendarmenmarkt

The Q.

Stefanel

MO HR EN ST R. MEISSEN im Hilton Stadtmitte/U2 Gudrun Sjödén

Comptoir des Cotonniers

TA UB EN ST R. Hausvogteiplatz

KR ON EN ST RA

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Local guides. Worldwide. London

A UGUS T 2 0 16 W HER E T R AV EL ER . C OM

Stadtmitte/U6

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Flaconi

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LONDON'S LEGACY Discover why the capital is in a sporting league of its own

BY ROYAL INVITATION

How you can explore Prince Charles’ home

HIDDEN LONDON

Visit secret bunkers, tunnels and Tube stations

AL FRESCO FUN

Outdoor film, theatre, picnics, drinks and art

SPORTS

IAL PA RSPEC IStoMwatch ON T H LY C I T YGU I DE Where

PaRIS - ENGLISH EDITION

Rio 2016

A guide

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m ay 2 0 16

The Fall Season Roars Into The Big Apple! Issue N o 268

IC FIND A YO N UR ON EX PR D MAP ES E

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THE LATEST SCOOP ON:

CULTURE

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May 2016/#268

Checkpoint Charlie

WL AUG 2016 COVER.indd 1

ENTERTAINMENT

DINING

PaRIS MONTHLy CIT yGUIDE

SC HÜ TZ EN ST RA

New York

SEPTEMBER 2016 CELEBRATING 80 YEARS OF TRAVEL ®

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

KR AU SE NS TR .

LEIP ZIGE R STRA SSE

CH AR LO TT EN

LE IP ZI GE R ST RA

ST RA SS E

Marc Cain

MAPS

ESCADA

Gucci

FASHION RESTAURANTS THE CULTURE SCENE + MORE

Join the circle of life at “The Lion King,” Broadway’s Award-Winning Best Musical

JÄ GE RS TR AS SE

Französische Straße

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R. FR IE D RI CH ST

FR AN ZÖ SI SC HE

Annette Görtz Store Berlin

Wempe Montblanc BABOR

BOSS Maurice Lacroix

Manufacturing clothing purely from organically grown natural fibers, founding twin sisters Anja and Sandra apply the highest standards of innovation and sustainability when creating their designs. The focus is on timeless beauty and the art of Japanese cutting, combining flattering silhouettes with precise lines. Friedrichstr. 71. T: 030 24085534 www.umasan-berlin.com

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COS Massimo Dutti

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BerlinFriedrichstraße

AllSaints Superdry

This perfume house was created in 1904 to provide unique luxury fragrances made with the finest ingredients. In 1905, Krigler’s shop on Unter den Linden witnessed the flourishing of Berlin’s Weimar era, and early fans of Krigler perfumes included celebrities, such as John F. Kennedy, Audrey Hepburn, and Grace Kelly. Hotel Adlon, Unter den Linden 77. T: 030 80494144 www.krigler.eu

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Paris says i Do... to Romance & Fashion

FA SHION • ARTS & AT TR AC TIONS • dININg • eNTeRTAINmeNT • m ApS

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COS Deichmann Denim & Supply by Ralph Lauren DESIGUAL Dogo Shoes Einblick Optik EPL Diamond Esprit Eterna FALKE FASHION CLUB Fast Forward Foot Locker Fossil French Connection Frisco Jeans G-Star Raw GANT GINA TRICOT GUESS H&M

Fashion & Accessories 7 FOR ALL

BREE

MANKIND

C&A

adidas Neo

CALZEDONIA

Airfield

Casano

Almano -

CHRIST

Ledermanufaktur

CINQUE

ARMANI JEANS

Claire’s

Backlash

Clarks Ecco

Bershka

Coco California

BIJOU BRIGITTE

Codello

BIMBA Y LOLA

Cordon Berlin

HALLHUBER Hollister HUGO BOSS Hunkemöller Intersport INTIMISSIMI Jack & Jones JD Sports KARL LAGERFELD Kingz Konplott LACOSTE LAURÈL Levi’s LIEBESKIND Lief! Liu Jo LLOYD Look 54 MANGO MARC CAIN Marc O’Polo

MASSIMO DUTTI Mavi MAX & CO. Mephisto MEXX Muji NAVYBOOT Nike Oakley Odlo Olymp One Green Elephant PANDORA Passionata PATRIZIA PEPE Peek & Cloppenburg Pepe Jeans René Lezard Reno Replay Rich & Royal

Runners Point S & D sons and daughters Salamander Sarar Schiesser Schiesser Uncover SCHMUCKRAUSCH Schuh Bode SHOE CITY Shoe Connect Shok Sidestep SNIPES Sportalm Kitzbühel SPORTSCHECK Street Shoes STRELLSON STRENESSE STYLE MODE Sunglass Hut SWAROVSKI

Taschenparadies THOMAS SABO Tom Tailor TOMMY HILFIGER Trigema Triumph TWIN-SET UN1DEUX2TROIS3 Undiz Uniqlo Vans VERO MODA WE-Fashion Wigglesteps WORMLAND ZARA ZERO ...and more.

LEIPZIGER PLATZ / POTSDAMER PLATZ

UNIQLO

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Sony Center LEIPZIGER Potsdamer Platz PLATZ DAMER STRASSE

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IMAGE © THINKSTOCK

Selected shops for the Savvy Shopper ®

Berlin

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SHOPPING Cinque Exquisite elegance for men and women defines this label, whose products are inspired by the Italian lifestyle and Mediterranean views. www.cinque.de. Rochstr. 1. T: 030.28099999. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Cotélac The French just have that certain je ne sais quoi when it comes to style. Laid-back, breezy, comfortable, and nonetheless elegant, the Cotélac collections capture that quintessential French style in clothing and accessories for both women and men. Brand hallmarks are fine fabrics, subtle details and unique prints created with special dye and fabric techniques. Mulackstr. 6. T: 030 53604074. www.cotelac.fr. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

designer depot This boutique in Mitte offers selected designer fashion, shoes, and accessories for men and ladies at up to 50 percent off. There are more than 30 international labels such as Calvin Klein, Iceberg, Roberto Cavalli, and Valentino. www.designerdepot.net. Rochstr. 2. T: 030.28046700. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Finn's Mode This tiny store near Savignyplatz stocks a large variety of fashion items with a personality, for women "who know who they are and like to dress well." Brands include Piazza Sempione, Zenggi, Cambio, Le Tricot Perugia, and more, and the selection ranges from dresses and skirts to accessories like shoes and bags. www.finns-mode.

Berlin’s King Of Concept Shops It’s the concept store that launched countless imitators. Founded in 2003, back in the day when high-end, curated shopping was but a nascent idea in Berlin, the Andreas Murkudis concept store is one of the city’s most long-standing and unrivalled sources for beautiful clothing and objects. Originally in Mitte, the Andreas Murkudis store – also known as AM – moved to Potsdamer Straße in the Tiergarten neighborhood in 2011, quickly establishing that area as a cool, creative destination. In a huge, post-industrial space, browse through a selection of chic, sleek womenswear and menswear, ranging from avant-garde labels to time-tested classics, from famous names like Céline, Dries van Noten, and Maison Margiela to smaller labels. You’ll also find accessories like handbags and jewelry, cosmetics, tableware, and décor. For an even more extensive selection of beautiful things for the home, AM Möbel + Architektur – just a few doors down at Nr. 77 – is dedicated to design objects and furniture. Potsdamer Str. 81E. T: 030.680798306. www.andreasmurkudis.com

A PLACE FOR SHOPPING

Arkaden Shops open from Mon-Sat, 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. POTSDAMERPLATZ.DE

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DESIGNER DEPOT Since 2002, this fashion outlet boutique has been offering high class fashion and accessories from major international labels at up to 50% off the original price. Check out their selection, which ranges from unique pieces to dressy garments. Tax Free available.

Rochstrasse 2. T: 030 28046700 www.facebook.com/ddmitte www.designer-depot.net shop stop

UNIQLO High-quality wardrobe essentials for the whole family can be found at this Japanese fashion chain that has taken the world by storm. Deftly marrying fashion with practicality, UNIQLO is especially known for its innovative fabrics and luxurious yet affordable cashmere sweaters. Mon-Sat 10am to 9pm. Rosenthaler Str. 42 www.uniqlo.com/de

HACKESCHER MARKT AND MITTE

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An der Spandauer Brücke 7. T: 030 27890578 de.neweracap.eu

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Looking for a new cap? The world's leading headwear brand has a store in Berlin. Check out the classic 59FIFTY baseball cap and a number of other designs, for both men and women. Don't miss the autumn apparel collection in the Berlin flagship store.

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The French have that certain je ne sais quoi when it comes to style. Laid-back, breezy, comfortable, and nonetheless elegant, the Cotélac collections are created by Raphaëlle Cavalli and capture that quintessential French style in clothing and accessories for both women and men. Brand hallmarks are special dyes and folding techniques, inlays, unique prints, and exquisite detail when it comes to treating fabrics. With over 100 boutiques in France and abroad, you can check out the latest Fall-Winter 2016 collection in their store on Mulackstraße, Berlin’s so-called designer central.

Mulackstr. 6. T: 030 53604074 www.cotelac.fr

ONEPIECE Popular Norwegian apparel brand Onepiece has become globally recognized in large part due to their celebrity-adored jumpsuits. In the shop you will find a huge variety of leisure and lifestyle wear: Onesies, jumpsuits, pants, hoodies, shirts, dresses and much more.

Litfaßplatz 1. T: 030 27580644 www.onepiece.com

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SHOPPING

LUXURY

Brands AIGNER www.aignermunich.com. Kurfürstendamm 50. T: 030.88683668. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BALLY www.bally.com. Kurfürstendamm 52. T: 030.88707688. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BOGGI MILANO www.boggi.it. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Kreuzberg’s Culinary Haven An inconspicuous shop on Kreuzberg’s popular Bergmannstraße holds a delightful surprise for gourmands. Ölmühle an der Havel (“Oil Mill on the Havel River”) offers a cornucopia of culinary ingredients –oils, pestos, tea blends, and salt mixtures – made by the owners themselves and available in an unusual spectrum of flavors. Pep up ordinary pasta with pumpkin seed pesto, or mix your next salad dressing with asparagus, chia, or the exotic-sounding dragon’s head oil, all of which are pressed under the temperature of 45C/113F, meaning they’re also suitable for raw foodists. Most every ingredient in the shop is sourced locally, made on site, and both vegan and gluten-free. Stop by for the monthly workshop, or peruse the wide range of kitchen gadgets and cookware that you never even knew you needed. Bergmannstr. 104. www.oelgenuss.de. T: 030 50567115. de. Bleibtreustraße 47. T: 030.8832202. U Uhlandstraße B4

Frosch & Königin This fairytale store is filled with beautiful things – fashion from 0039 Italy, jewelry by Nicola Hinrichsen, and Day Birger Mikkelsen home accessories, to name just a few. For the woman who has kissed a lot of frogs but still believes in the big love. www.froschundkoenigin.de. Rochstr. 16. T: 030 28873734. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Ganni Berlin Founded in Copenhagen, Ganni carries easy-towear pieces for women with an attitude who like to mix things up. Elegant and effortless clothing, lingerie, accessories, and shoes. www.ganni.com. Alte Schönhauser Str. 6. T: 030.27590966. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Goldsteg Designer Outlet This outlet store carries one-of-a-kind fashion pieces, exciting accessories and high-quality Italian leather bags by a wide range of designers. www.goldsteg.de. Carmerstr. 8. T: 030 51307933. S Savignyplatz. B4

Marc Cain A worldwide premium brand for women’s fashion with its own production facility in Germany. Marc Cain effortlessly combines aesthetics and innovation in design and materials, making a declaration of love to women. www.marc-cain.com. Friedrichstr. 61. See website for more locations. T: 030.20077219. U Stadtmitte. E3

MaxMara One of the oldest and most prestigious Italian fashion houses, known for its quality craftsmanship and ready-to-wear clothing. www.maxmara.com. Friedrichstr. 184, T: 030.20074945. U Stadtmitte. E3; Kurfürstendamm 178. T: 030.8852545. U Adenauerplatz. B4

Meyer & Nehls This intimate boutique is geared towards selfconfident, independent women who appreciate good fashion advice and prefer to steer clear of the “off-the-shelf” look. Owners Lars and Frank Nehls have filled their store with beautiful clothes for that special occasions, and also business attire and casual outfits. www.meyerundnehls.de. Bleibtreustr. 13. T: 030 88678578. S Savignyplatz. B4

Onepiece A popular Norwegian brand, best known for its jumpsuits, beloved by celebrities. Comfortable pants, hoodies, shirts, and dresses complete the offering. www.onepiece.com. Litfaßplatz 1. T: 030.27580644. S Hackescher Markt. F3

Patrick Hellmann Among the most successful luxury brands in the fashion world, Patrick Hellmann stands for timelessness, elegant designs, quality materials, and extravagant details. There are also clothes by Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior, and Dolce & Gabbana. www.patrick-hellmann.com. Kurfürstendamm 190–192. T: 030.88487711. U Adenauerplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

BOSS www.hugoboss.com. Friedrichstr. 165. T: 030.20613890. U Französische Straße. E3

BOTTEGA VENETA www.bottegaveneta.com. Kurfürstendamm 59-60. T: 030.70550770. U Adenauerplatz. B4

BUCHERER www.bucherer.com. Friedrichstr. 45. T: 030.2041049. U Kochstraße. E4

BULGARI www.bulgari.com. Kurfürstendamm 190-192. T: 030.8857920. U Uhlandstraße. B4

EMPORIO ARMANI www.armani.com. Friedrichstr. 169-170. T: 030 20615660. U Stadtmitte. E3

DOROTHEE SCHUMACHER www.dorothee-schumacher.com. Departmentstore Quartier 206, Friedrichstr. 71. T: 030 20946099. U Französische Straße. E3

ESCADA www.escada.com. Kurfürstendamm 195. T: 030.88923815. U Uhlandstraße. B4

ETRO www.etro.com. Departmentstore Quartier 206, Friedrichstr. 71. T: 030.20946120. U Französische Straße. E3

MCM www.mcmworldwide.com. Rosenthaler Str. 38. T: 030.28493793. S Hackescher Markt. F2

PAL ZILERI www.palzileri.com. Kurfürstendamm 175-176. T: 030.88910700. U Adenauerplatz. B4

ROLEX www.rolex.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.55669010. U Adenauerplatz. B4

WEMPE www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.8826878. U Adenauerplatz. B4

Planet Berlin Described as "luxury with a touch of rock and roll," www.wheretraveler.com 31

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SHOPPING the store will have you decked out for your next glamorous night of clubbing. They stock classic labels such as Converse and Dr. Martens, as well as new labels like Japan Rags, whose jeans for both men and women have already achieved cult status. www.planetwear.de. Schlüterstr. 35. T: 030 8852717. S Savignyplatz. B4

Rebecca Store With a unique boudoir atmosphere, this concept store is a harmonious medley of European and American designers, including Yigal Azrouel, Vera Wang, and Gas Bijoux. All items are personally selected by owner Rebecca Zehden on her many trips abroad. www.rebecca-berlin.de. Alte Schönhauser Str. 41. T: 030 34620780. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Trüffelschwein The Trüffelschwein man is never overdressed – he simply looks good, with a collection of small niche brands from London, Paris, and New York. www. trueffelschweinberlin.com. Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 21. T: 030.70221225. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Twin-Set Italian designer Simona Barbieri began her career in the 1990s focusing her activity on knitwear and female clothing, but soon after expanded her collection to add bags, lingerie, beachwear, and shoes. Today, Twin-Set is known internationally for its style, which is both elegant and feminine. Mall of Berlin. T: 030.22152081. U Mohrenstraße. E3

UNIQLO Originally a chain of roadside stores in suburban

Japan, this brand quickly became an Asian sensation and has now expanded to trendy urban hubs around the globe. Their Berlin flagship store has three floors of quality basics and fashion for women, men, and children. www.uniqlo.com. Tauentzienstr. 7. T: 030 29028260. U Wittenbergplatz. C4; Leipziger Platz 16. S+U Potsdamer Platz. E3; Rosenthaler Str. 42; S Hackescher Markt. F3

Wormland This men’s boutique carries the best German and international brands, catering to a demanding man and offering a variety of styles, from classy to casual, from business to sporty. Brands include Calvin Klein, Black Kaviar, Lee Jeans, and Hugo Boss. www.wormland.de. Mall of Berlin. Direct entrance from Voßstraße. T: 030.229088200. U Mohrenstraße. E3

SHOES & ACCESSORIES AIGNER The Munich label is one of Germany’s most important leather accessory brands, combining tradition and innovation with luxury classics. Choose between handbags, belts, and luxury travel luggage, as well as gift items such as corkscrews, keyrings and backgammon boxes. www.aignermunich.com. Kurfürstendamm 50. T: 030.88683638. U Uhlandstraße. B4

bagatt Milano Bagatt epitomizes the appreciation for beauty for which Italy is known. With its core philosophy of fine Italian craftsmanship, bagatt Milano applies the highest quality standards to its collection of shoes, handbags and accessories. Browse the shelves for contemporary, comfortable looks for everyday wear or elegant heels. Email: bagattberlino@gmail.com. Bikini Berlin: Budapester Str. 38–50. T:030 25759777. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Boots & Shoes With their air-cushioned sole, laceup style, and yellow stitching, the popular Doc Martens boots launched in the UK in 1960 wasc based on a prototype by German army doctor Klaus Märtens. Check out many designs and colors of the famous boots at Boots & Shoes, from the classic 1460 model, to shiny blue, or floral print. Ballerinas, booties, clothing, and accessories round off the offering. www.drmartens.com. Dircksenstr. 49. T: 0800.2070700. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Michael Kors The New York-based designer Michael Kors is known for his ready-to-wear fashion and luxury accessories – bags, watches, jewelry, shoes, and other award-winning designs. www.michaelkors. com. Kurfürstendamm 219. T: 030.81825760. U Uhlandstr. C4; Rosenthaler Str. 37. T: 030.24088690. F2

ADVERTORIAL

Colorful Details Sometimes, you just need a dash of color and whimsy in your life – like a fox lamp, a brightly patterned serving tray or a cozy blanket for these chilly November days. For that, there's French design emporium Pylones. Browse the wide selection of stationery, kitchenware, toys, gift ideas, and such practical necessities as key rings and phone cases, each brighter and more playful than the next. www.pylones.com. Schloßstr. 32/32a. T: 030 92357108. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Kurfürstendamm 225. T: 030 92362488. Mon-Sat 10am-9pm; Karl-LiebknechtStr. 3. T: 030 80928130. Daily 10am-9pm.

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MCM Mode Creation Munich crafts luxury leather goods, handbags, apparel, footwear, and accessories. www.mcmworldwide.com. Quartier 206, Friedrichstr. 71. T: 030.20946500. U Französische Straße. E3; Kurfürstendamm 186. T: 030.8811104. U Uhlandstraße. B4; Rosenthaler Str. 38. T: 030.28493793. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

New Era Flagship Store Looking for a new cap? This is the largest and fastest growing headwear producer in the world. There are more than 1000 styles over two floors, ranging from the classic baseball cap to modern designs, including their bestseller 59fifty, popular with the skater and hip hop crowd. www. neweracap.com. An der Spandauer Brücke 7. T: 030.27890578. S Hackescher Markt. F2

Volker Lang The success story of Volker Lang started in 1983 in Hamburg, when he designed his first handbag. A functional, pure look with playful details define his style, resulting in timeless purses, handbags, and other accessories loved by their owners for years and beyond the dictates of fashion. Mulackstr. 37. T: 030.284937004. www.volker-lang-accessoires.de. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Jewelry & Watches Bodo Dilg Goldschmiede A master in the jewelry field, Bodo Dilg creates unique pieces of contemporary jewelry using gold and precious stones against a backdrop of historical stucco and cement tiles. An essential stop for soon to wed partners. www.bodo-dilg.de. Grolmanstr. 30/31. T: 030 88675355. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Chopard Jewelry and watches loved by celebrities. This luxury jewelry brand combines Swiss perfection with timeless style for the elite. www.chopard.com. Kurfürstendamm. 186/187. T: 030.70096980. U Adenauer Platz. B4 KaDeWe, Tauentzienstr. 21-24. T: 030.206039830. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

NUMBER ONE IN SHOPPING, LEISURE & ENTERTAINMENT IN BERLIN

Client - McAG Outlet - Berlin Ad Type - POS Publication -

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MO - SA 10am - 9pm ALEXA AT ALEXANDERPLATZ OPEN ON SUNDAYS: FOOD COURT AND LEISURE AREA

Lalic Schmuck This family-run jewelry store near Savignyplatz prides itself on having been the first jewelry gallery in Gerlamy. All pieces are carefully selected by owner and expert Maren Meyee-Ringe, who only picks the best handmade items from more than 30 famous goldsmiths and designers. www.lalic-schmuckgalerie.de. Bleibtreustr. 47. T: 030.8819762. E3

18 0 S H O PS FA S H IO N , ACCESS O R IE S , E LEC TR O N IC S , BO O KS & MUCH M ORE S H O P P IN G

ROLEX Boutique One of the most famous brands in luxury, Rolex has been making wristwatches since 1905. First created in England, the company soon moved to Switzerland, and its perfect timepieces are recognized worldwide as the ultimate symbol of elegance and refinement. www.rolex.de. www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.55669010. U Uhlandstraße. E2

Wempe One of the oldest family businesses in Germany is renowned for its passion for fine jewelry and watches, and in particular for its precision timepieces and attention to detail. www.wempe. de. Kurfürstendamm 215. See website for more locations. T: 030.8826878. U Uhlandstraße. C4; Friedrichstr. 82. T: 030.20399920. U Französische Straße. E3

www.alexacentre.com |

become a fan of ALEXA

Make it yours.

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SHOPPING

Home Décor Home on Earth

Books & Music

Harry Lehmann

Dussmann das KulturKaufhaus

Located in the historical Hackesche Höfe, this store offers home décor items made from natural materials combined with Scandinavian design. Founded by a German-Danish pair in Barcelona, this is the first store to hit Germany. www.homeonearth.com. Hackesche Höfe/Hof V, Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. T: 030 2834354. S Hackescher Markt F2

Germany’s biggest selection of English-language fiction, non-fiction, kids’ books, and audio books. With over two levels of wall-to-wall books, DVDs, and CDs, all genres are covered. Mon-Sat until midnight. Friedrichstr. 90. T: 030.20251111. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Promobo

After spending 10 years selling English and French books in the Czech Republic, this cute little store has expanded to Berlin, with an impressive range of Eastern European literature available in English translations. www.shakesbooks.de. Raumerstr. 36. T: 030.40003685. U Eberswalder Straße. F1; Warschauerstr. 74. T: 030.40003685. S+U Warschauer Straße. G4

Many of the fun offbeat, eye-catching design objects, such as jewelry, handbags, and gifts are made by hand in small workshops around Germany, using plenty of recycled materials like bike inner tubes and cork. www.promobo.de. Rosenthalerstr. 40–41, Hackesche Höfe 3 & 5. S Hackescher Markt. F2

Pylones These household products are created to add a spark to our daily lives, filling it with color and fun. The designers choose zoomorphic themes. www.pylones.com. Kurfürstendamm 225 (check website for other store locations). T: 030.92362488. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Manufactum Their catalogue enjoys an almost cult-like status for its German language prowess, but better still is to visit the store itself. They collect mainly household and garden goods made with traditional manufacturing methods and materials. www. manufactum.de. See website for other locations. Hardenbergstr. 4. T: 030.24033844. U Ernst-Reuter-Platz. B3

Shakespeare and Sons

The grandson of this perfume shop’s founder continues an 80-year-long family tradition, mixing perfume from a spectrum of 50 scents. www. parfum-individual.de. Kantstr. 106. T: 030.3243582. U Wilmersdorfer Straße, S Charlottenburg. C4

Krigler Founded in 1904, Krigler was born out of the desire to create unique luxury fragrances made with the finest ingredients from around the world. In 1905, Krigler’s original shop on Unter den Linden witnessed the flourishing of Berlin’s legendary music scene and the fragrances were appreciated by celebrities such as John F. Kennedy, Audrey Hepburn, and Grace Kelly. www.krigler.eu. Adlon Hotel. Unter den Linden 77. T: 030 80494144. S Brandenburger Tor. E3

Mühle

BEAUTY & WELLNESS Specializing in beauty driven by science, Babor creates skincare solutions for every woman’s unique needs. Top-sellers at the flagship store include vitamin-rich skin serums and deluxe foundations with a lifting effect. www.babor.de. Französische Str. 48. T: 030. 20622222. U Französische Straße. E3

Traditional shaving culture for the modern gentleman. MÜHLE is a classic German brand with everything needed for the perfect wet shave, like beautiful razors with chrome or tortoiseshell handles and soap brushes with soft badger bristles. www.muehle-shaving.com. Rosenthaler Str. 40–41, Hackesche Höfe IV. T: 030 60269429. S Hackescher Markt.E3

Frau Tonis Parfum

Parfumsalon

Babor

The perfume boutique offers scents inspired by the city, like Pure Violet, originally composed for Marlene Dietrich. Take a scent test to find the fragrances that suit you best or ask customize your own bottle. www.frau-tonis-parfum.com. Zimmerstr. 13. T: 030.20215310. U Kochstraße. E4

An exclusive perfume boutique that has been offering fragrances for more than five decades. The shop's selection include rarities and special aromas, all hand-picked by owner and perfume expert Mario Worms. www.parfumsalon.de. Uhlandstr. 173-174. T: 030.8827306. E3

Shopping Essentials sizing GUIDE

shoes UK

clothes Euro

women 3 4 5 6 7 8

5 6 7 8 9 10

8 9 10 11 12 13

Xs s m l

6 8 10 12 14 16

ROLEX Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40 Rolex Boutique Kurfürstendamm 184.

8 9 10 11 12 13

2 4 6 8 10 12

34 36 38 40 42 44

men (chest) 41 42 43 45 46 47

s m l

34 36 38 40 42 44

Children 7 8 9 10 11 12

Euro

women 36 37 38 39 41 42

men 7 8 9 10 11 12

34 36 38 40 42 44

44 46 48 50 52 54

Children 24 25.5 27 28 29 30.5

4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10-11 12-13 14-15

4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10 12 13

110cm 116-122 128-134 140-146 152-158 164-170

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Find your Something Pretty

Where style comes to wander. Bikini Berlin

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SIGHTSEEING | THE GUIDE

Fragmented Resistance Serene Tseng visits the sites of German resistance against the National Socialist dictatorship. We all know that the Nazi regime was one of the most repressive in history, with the Gestapo stringently cracking down on any form of criticism towards Hitler and Ntaional Socialism. A less known fact is that there existed a number of small and generally isolated resistance movements, organized by undercover political opponents who tried again and again to counter the dictatorship. The fragmented nature of the German resistance, due in part to the government's strong methods of repression, meant there was never a unified movement that was able to mobilize political opposition. It was rather organized in small groups who could only attempt to sabotage Nazi activities and plot attacks in hopes of overthrowing the regime. The most famous of these efforts was the 1944 assassination attempt against Hitler, also known as "the 20 July plot," with the ultimate aim of triggering a coup. Colonel Claus von Stauffenberg planted a briefcase bomb near Hitler during a military conference, and though

the bomb detonated, Hitler survived the attack relatively unscathed. Stauffenberg and his co-conspirators were arrested and executed that night, while a total of 90 individuals connected to the plot were executed at Plötzensee Prison (Gedenkstätte Plötzensee, Hüttigpfad, www.gedenkstaette-ploetzensee.

de) in Charlottenburg after being tried in the Hitler-appointed People’s Court. The German Resistance Memorial Center (Gedenkstätte Deutscher Widerstand, Stauffenbergstr. 13-14, www.gdw-berlin.de) in Tiergarten commemorates these underground fighters of the Nazi era. Housed on the site of the attempted 20 July coup, the center organizes events and exhibitions to show how individual persons and groups took action against the Nazi dictatorship. Although the permanent exhibition focuses mainly on the protagonists of the 20 July plot, it also describes all the other underground networks of the German resistance, including groups of Social Democrats, led by political dissident Julius Leber, Communist opponents, groups affiliated to the Christian Church, and the famous, Munich-based student movement The White Rose, which counted among its members the young siblings Sophie and Hans Scholl, who were guillotined for distributing anti-war pamphlets at the university of Munich.

These photos: The German Resistance Memorial Center; Below: The memorial at the Plötzensee Prison.

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT wheretraveler.com

Major Sights The “Alex” TV Tower The 368m- (1027ft)-high TV tower of Alexanderplatz can be seen from almost any point in the city and has been iconic of Berlin ever since it was built by the GDR in 1969. The giant steel-clad sphere atop houses a revolving restaurant and café as well as a viewing platform. The elevator ride lasts 40 seconds. Arrive early to avoid lines. Daily 9am–midnight (Nov–Feb from 10am). €13/8.50. www.tv-turm.de. Panoramastr. 1a. T: 030.24757537. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Berliner Dom The city’s neo-Renaissance cathedral was begun in the late 1700s, finished in 1905, and renovated in simplified form after WWII damage. Walk up 267 steps for glorious views of the city from the dome, or stay on the ground floor to gaze at elaborate sarcophagi containing the royal remains of Hohenzollern family members. Thanks to the church’s perfect acoustics and a 7200-pipe organ, the Dom is also an important concert venue. Mon–Sat 9am–8pm, Sun 9am–8pm (winter until 7pm). €7/5. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269119. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Brandenburg Gate MUST SEE The definitive Berlin icon, Carl Gotthard Langhans’ Neoclassical triumphal arch has witnessed the city’s best and worst moments, from the military parades of the Third Reich to the Wall being raised and torn down. Formerly behind GDR borders, today the gate acts mainly as the backdrop for festivals, New Year’s Eve parties, and tourist snapshots. U Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3

Nikolaiviertel and Knoblauchhaus The Nikolaiviertel is where Berlin was born, and the area still retains its ancient character, although most of the buildings in the narrow medieval alleys are replicas of destroyed originals that dated back to the 1200s. The late-Gothic Nikolaikirche, Berlin’s oldest surviving building, is now a museum. Other points of interest include the Ephraim Palais Museum and the Biedermeierstyle Knoblauchhaus, a 19th-century middleclass townhouse that escaped WWII damage. Knoblauch Haus: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. www.knoblauchhaus.de. Poststr. 23. T: 030.240020171. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Panoramapunkt am Potsdamer Platz In 20 seconds, an elevator whisks you to the top of a 100m-high platform with one of the best views in Berlin. Visitors can enjoy drinks and cake at the café, with the city’s skyline as a backdrop. Daily 10am–8pm (until 6pm Nov–Mar). €6.50/5. www.panoramapunkt.de. Kolhoff Tower, Potsdamer Platz 1. S Potsdamer Platz. D3

Potsdamer Platz Before the war, Potsdamer Platz was the city’s beating heart, with department stores, banks, internationally known theaters, dance halls, and cafés. WWII bombs obliterated 80 percent of the square, which was left in limbo for a few years and then enclosed in a no-man’s-land between the Wall and barbed wire fences. The square came back to life in the 1990s as a modern reinterpretation of its original self. Divided in three

slices, it includes the Sony building with its central plaza; Daimler City, home to a large shopping mall; and the Manhattan-style Beisheim Center building. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Reichstag and Foster’s Glass Cupola MUST SEE In the last 100 years, the massive neo-Renaissance building, now the seat of German Parliament, has been bombed, set on fire, wrapped by artist Christo, and renovated by Lord Norman Foster. Climb the glass cupola for a 360-degree view of the city, then gaze down at parliament in session. The plenary hall can be visited only on guided tours. Cupola: Daily 8am–midnight by appointment only. Free. Register on website; it is recommended to do so at least three days prior to your visit. Audio tours available. www.bundestag.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030.22732152. U Bundestag. D3/E3

Siegessäule (Victory Column) The triumphal column on the Straße der 17. Juni, in the middle of Tiergarten park, commemorates victory in the Prusso-Danish war, while the angel on top was added after two further war victories against Austria and France. Daily 9:30am–6:30pm (weekends until 7pm); winter 10am–5pm (weekends until 5:30pm). €3/2. Großer Stern 1. T: 030.3912961. U Hansaplatz. C3/D3

Historic Sites Asisi’s Wall Panorama Yadegar Asisi created a panorama of divided Berlin, presenting everyday life against the backdrop of the

Charlottenburg Palace The summer home of Sophie Charlotte, wife of King Friedrich I of Prussia, reflects the grandeur of the Hohenzollern family. Begun in 1695, the luxury Baroque complex consists of a main building with a central cupola and two side wings, added in later years, that enclose a courtyard. The picturesque park surrounding the castle includes a formal French-style garden, English garden with pond and statues, belvedere, and mausoleum. The castle hosts temporary art and history exhibitions. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm). €12/8. www.spsg.de. Spandauer Damm 20-24. T: 030.9694200. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Hackesche Höfe An intricate series of interconnected courtyards provides an example of early-19th-century German Secessionist style. The first courtyard is entirely decorated with glazed blue-and-white tiles in geometric designs, while the apartment buildings and narrow, maze-like alleys lined with cafés, shops, and theaters give the Höfe an atmosphere both familiar and fascinating. Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. S Hackescher Markt. E2/F2

Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche The church’s bombed-out bell tower has been an anti-war memorial and symbol of West Berlin ever since its ruins were restored to their present state in 1957. The old church now hosts an exhibition of before-and-after photos documenting its and Ku'damm's former splendor. Inside, look up to admire what remains of the old mosaic. Daily 9am–7pm. www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. Breitscheidplatz. T: 030.2185023. U Zoologischer Garten, U Kurfürstendamm. C4

What Lies Beneath Berlin has no shortage of historic sites with fascinating stories to tell. Berliner Unterwelten, or Berlin Underworlds, is dedicated to shining the light on some of the most hidden, intriguing, and jaw-dropping spots of all. The non-profit agency leads tours into a variety of underground sites that are hidden in plain sight, like a WWII air raid shelter behind an unassuming door in the Gesundbrunnen U-Bahn station. Inside the chilly labyrinth of concrete tunnels, you can see the narrow bunk beds and communal toilets that the war-weary Berliners would have used, and experience a small dose of the claustrophobia and terror they endured. Another tour explores a Cold War nuclear shelter that was thankfully never used, but could have sheltered 3339 West Berliners for up to two weeks if necessary. Or duck into the rubble of an enormous concrete gun tower in Humboldthain park that was so massive, it couldn’t be destroyed – and so it ended up being buried. Most of the Berliner Unterwelten tours are available year round. Make sure to dress warmly, as it’s always cooler down there. www.berliner-unterwelten.de

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SIGHTSEEING

Bombed Out While shopping along the Ku’damm, you’re sure to have noticed the half-bombed-out Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church. The original Protestant church was built in Romanesque revival style in the 1890s for the Hohenzollern family and included 2740 square meters of wall mosaics, depicting the Kaiser almost as a deity. In 1943, the church was irreparably damaged in air raids, but part of the spire and much of the entrance hall remained intact. When a new church was built next to the site in the late 1950s, public pressure prevented the demolition of the old church, which became an anti-war memorial, and now displays a fascinating model of the city before and after the bombings. The new church took shape around the ruins, and the complex earned it the nickname “lipstick and powder box.” So take a break from shopping and step inside for a spot of history. Breitscheidplatz. T: 030 2185023. www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de

Berlin Wall Documentation Center MUST SEE Walk along one of the few surviving stretches of the Berlin Wall in an area of the city where its impact was particularly dramatic, then delve into its storied history at the documentation center. Documents and original radio broadcasts from both East and West chronicle one of Germany’s saddest historical periods. Open-air exhibition: 8am-10pm daily; documentation center: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. Free. www.berliner-mauergedenkstaette.de. Bernauer Str. 111. U Bernauer Straße. E2

Checkpoint Charlie During the Cold War, Checkpoint Charlie was the main gateway between East and West. Shortly after the Wall went up, US and Soviet tanks faced each other on this spot. Today, the crossing point acts primarily as a backdrop for tourist photographs. U Kochstraße, U Stadtmitte. E3/E4

East Side Gallery While West Berliners loved to express their creativity by drawing graffiti and painting on the Wall, East Berliners were never allowed to use the dividing structure as a canvas. To make up for all the artless years, artists from 21 countries were called upon in 1990 to decorate one mile of the Wall's eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery. Mühlenstraße. S+U Warschauer Straße, S Ostbahnhof. G4

Holocaust Memorial MUST SEE Berlin’s tribute to the victims of the Holocaust is as big as a soccer field and consists of 2711 tombstone-like slabs of equal size and varying heights, placed on uneven ground to convey a sense of claustrophobia and disorientation. The underground information center provides a timeline of Jewish persecution. Accessible 24 hours a day. Free. www.holocaust-mahnmal. de. Cora-Berliner Straße. T: 030.2639430. U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Topographie des Terrors MUST SEE On the site of the former headquarters of the SS and the Third Reich’s most important offices, this permanent exhibition recounts the tragic history of Nazi forced labor, focusing on the central institutions of the SS and Third Reich police and the crimes they committed throughout Europe. A segment of the Wall runs along the grounds. Daily 10am–8pm. Free. www. topographie.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 8. T: 030.2545090. U Kochstraße. E4

Tränenpalast (Palace of Tears) Until 1990, the departure hall of the Friedrichstraße station was also a border crossing for West Berliners on their way home after visiting relatives and friends in the East. The many painful farewells brought locals to rename the building the “palace of tears.” Tue–Fri 9am–7pm (Sat–Sun until 6pm). Free. www.hdg.de. Reichstagufer 17. T: 030.46777790. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Kids & Families Berlin Dungeon Much like the London Dungeon, the Berlin Dungeon provides a terrifying interactive journey through the city's dark past via a sometimesspooky, actor-led experience. Visitors are taken through attractions such as the old library of Berlin, a plague-infected street, a torture chamber, a secret court, and more. Not recommended for young children. Daily 10am–6pm (winter weekends until 5pm). €20.50/12.30(discount when booking online). Under-14s must be accompanied by adult. Combined LEGOLAND, Madame Tussauds, and Sea Life tickets available. www.thedungeons.com. Spandauer Str. 2. S+U Hackescher Markt. F3

Berlin Zoo and Aquarium MUST SEE One of the city’s main

attractions and the oldest zoo in Germany includes pavilions that Karl-Marx-Allee provide ample indoor space, Berlin’s best example of GDRmaking the venue suitable for Berlin is not only the largest era Neorealist architecture is rainy days. The zoo boasts the city in Germany: It is also the a 90m- (295ft-)wide boulevard largest number of species and greenest, with almost 32 built between 1950 and 1960 to total animal residents in the percent of the city surface provide housing for thousands of world. The aquarium, one of the covered in forest residents and to act as a backdrop largest in Europe, features large and water. for military parades. The street quickly tanks with piranhas, sharks, and became a source of national pride for alligators. Daily 9am–6:30pm. Zoo or East Germany, due to its residential tower aquarium: €14.50/7.50, blocks inspired by Moscow and by Stalin’s ideal style: under-4s free. Combined Zoo-Aquarium ticket: nationalistic in form but socialist in content. The €20/10. boulevard is an important architectural showcase. www.aquarium-berlin.de, www.zoo-berlin.de U Weberwiese, Strausberger Platz. F3/G3 Hardenbergplatz 8. T: 030.254010. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Stasi Prison

MUST SEE Between 1945 and 1989, more than 20,000 people suspected of opposing the East German political system were arrested by the Stasi (secret police) and brought to this custody building. In its first and darkest years, the prison’s cellars, known as “the submarine,” were used to inflict psychological torture on the inmates, while the relatively more humane cells are on the upper floors, next to a seemingly never-ending corridor lined with interrogation rooms. Tours in English on

Botanischer Garten This large park was designed in the Romantic English style, with hills, lakes, and pretty greenhouses. There is a palm house and a whole section dedicated to exotic plants, including orchids, cacti, and carnivorous plants. Daily 9am–ca. one hour before sunset. Museum closes at 6pm. €6/3. www.bgbm.org. Königin-Luise-Str. 6-8. T: 030.83850100. S Botanischer Garten. Off Map

Wall on an imaginary day in the 1980s. The artist's aim was to show how the population came to terms with the situation, and the result gives onlookers a glimpse of East German life. Daily 10am–6pm. €10/4. www.asisi.de. Friedrichstr. 205. T: 0341.3555340. U Kochstraße. E3/E4

Wed, Sat, and Sun at 2:30pm in winter, daily at 11:30am and 2:30pm in summer. €6/3. en. stiftung-hsh.de. Genslerstr. 66. T: 030.98608230. S Landsberger Allee, then Tram M5 to Freienwalder Str., then 10-minute walk. Off Map

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SIGHTSEEING Currywurst Museum Learn about Berlin’s most famous street food at this small but entertaining museum. Delve into Currywurst history, discover the secrets of its yellow sauce in the "spice chamber," and watch movies starring the delicious sausage. Daily 10am–8pm. €11/7, under-6s free. www.currywurstmuseum.de. Schützenstr. 70. T: 030.88718647. U Kochstraße. E4

Madame Tussauds Have your picture taken with Angela Merkel, Albert Einstein, One Direction, or a host of other famous names in entertainment and politics. And, yes, there's even a wax Adolf Hitler, depicted as a little man standing in despair in his bunker during his final days. Daily 10am–7pm (Aug until 8pm). €23.50/18.50, discounts if you book online. Combined Berlin Dungeon, LEGOLAND, and Sea Life tickets available. www.madametussauds.com. Unter den Linden 74. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Sea Life & AquaDom Dazzling clownfish, scary sharks, crawling spider crabs, and quirky seahorses are just some of the 5000 creatures inhabiting this small but interesting aquarium. Discover the ethereal dance of the jellyfish and observe the eagle rays on your way to the Aquadom, a 16m-tall cylindrical tropical fish tank that can be viewed from a slow elevator. Daily 10am–7pm. €17.95/14.50 (discounts when booking online). Under-3s free. Combined Berlin Dungeon, LEGOLAND, and Madame Tussauds tickets available. www.visitsealife.com. Spandauer Str. 3. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

www.spsg.de. An der Orangerie 1, Potsdam. T: 0331.9694200. S Potsdam or regional train from Zoologischer Garten to Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

River Trips Exclusiv Yachtcharter This boat tour company offers yacht and luxury boat tours around Berlin, including a bridge tour and many different cruises through Berlin’s network of canals and lakes. www. exclusiv-yachtcharter.de. T: 030.43666836.

Stern und Kreis Schiffahrt Choose from 30 different boat tours along the city’s rivers and canals, including busboat combination tours of the Brandenburg region. buchung. sternundkreis.de. T: 030.5363600.

urban experience – a graffiti workshop. From €300. www.berlinagenten.com. Bornholmer Str. 4. T: 030.43720701.

Berliner Unterwelten (Underground Tours) Since 1997, the Berlin Underworlds Association has been offering regular tours of underground structures and subterranean complexes that are otherwise inaccessible. Cold War nuclear shelters, Hitler’s underground fortress, escape routes to the West, and WWII bunkers are just some of the adventures on offer. From €10. www.berliner-unterwelten. de. Brunnenstr. 105. T: 030.49910517.

The city reached its highest CooLTourings Segway population in 1942. At that time, 4,478,102 Tours people lived in Berlin. Covering Berlin’s top 20 Today, there are 3.5 sightseeing highlights, million. CooLTourings takes individual visitors

Tours & GUIDED Walks Berlinagenten These luxury tour agents specialize in “urban lifestyle guidance,” introducing their clients to exclusive locations, people, shops, and clubs. Offerings include a “Pimp Me Up” spa and makeover tour, culinary experiences, private house visits, limo tours, and – for an authentic

or large groups on an exciting ride aboard a Segway human transporter, a fun and fast way to explore the city. www.seg-berlinways.de. T: 030.26321381.

Trabi World For a quintessential Berlin tour experience, hop inside real Trabants, the iconic cars of the former GDR. Visitors drive their personal Trabis, while, via the car’s radio, the group leader provides historical and quirky facts. Three different tours available, lasting one or two hours. €30-50. www. trabi-world.de. Zimmerstr. 97. T: 030.30201030.

Potsdam Biosphäre Potsdam This tropical indoor garden features a greenhouse with more than 20,000 plants, including a palm grove and mangrove swamp, as well as animals such as iguanas, parrots, geckos, frogs, and butterflies. Daily Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, from 10am on weekends and holidays. €11.50/9.80. Under-3s free. www.biosphaere-potsdam.de. Georg-Halemann-Allee 99. T: 0331.550740. Tram 96 from Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

Filmpark Babelsberg

Sanssouci MUST SEE The sumptuous Rococo castle of Potsdam's Sanssouci was commissioned in 1745 by Frederick the Great, who wanted "a place to be without cares." The king of Prussia employed the finest architects of the day to design the Baroque park, the Schloß placed above terraced vineyards, the more sober New Palace, and a few other pavilions scattered in the park. Daily 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm); Mon closed. €15/11.

Fortified Treasures At the convergence of the Havel and Spree rivers in western Berlin lies the 450-year-old Spandau Citadel. When it was first built during the Renaissance, the fortress was intended to defend Berlin, and its four bastions were connected by curtain wall to ensure the fortress had no blind spots. Although the fortress itself is already quite old, the early-13th-century Julius Tower attached to it is even older. A short climb to the top of the watchtower rewards visitors with magnificent views of the Havel. During the winter, the fortress’s brick-walled vaults are home to 10,000 hibernating bats, and during the summer, the lush grounds play host to the open-air Citadel Music Festival. Am Juliusturm 64. T: 030.3549440. www.zitadelle-berlin.de

©istock photo.

In the early 1900s, the Babelsberg film studios produced some of the most important films of the silent era, including Metropolis, until the facilities were taken over by the Nazi regime to produce political propaganda. Today, the studios are still in use, but part of the complex has been turned into a theme park, with old sets, stuntmen, special effects, and children’s sections dedicated to popular TV characters. Daily 10am–6pm from April to October, closed Mon in May and on Mon and Tues in September, on 6 and 13 October. €21/14, under-4s free. www.filmpark-babelsberg.de. Grossbeerenstr., Potsdam-Babelsberg. T: 0331.7212750. S Griebnitzsee. Off Map

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Maximum Ticket. Maximum Berlin. All public transport for 48 or 72 hours, incl. SXF Airport, Potsdam Sanssouci, Memorial Sachsenhausen Exclusive 156-page guidebook filled with tips, a city map, and public transport map Save up to 50 % on many of Berlin‘s top attractions Also available as PREMIUM Ticket including hop on – hop off tour Available at

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES | THE GUIDE

Lucas Cranach's copy of Bosch's Last Judgement. Inset below: St. John on Patmos.

Solveig Steinhardt thinks there are no nightmares as fascinating as those imagined by Hieronymus Bosch. Five-hundred years since the death of Hieronymus Bosch, Europe seems to have gone crazy with Bosch fever. Thanks to his famously vivid imagination, the Dutch painter has always enjoyed a particularly widespread popularity among both art fans and lay crowds alike. His inventive depiction of the afterlife and hell, filled with little monsters, giant frogs, demons, and hordes of naked people in pain surrounded by inexpressive man-sized birds and nightmarish creatures has always intrigued and terrified viewers. The lack of information about the painter's life has only added to his halo of mystery. Where did Bosch get the inspiration for such a dark, disquieting universe? While popular belief is that he experienced hallucinations after ingesting rye contaminated with ergot fungus, researchers argue that he was inspired by a heretic point of view, and that he possibly used his art to criticize the corruption and scandalous behaviour of the church. But no

matter what Bosch meant to say to us, we should all take advantage of this year's Bosch-mania and use the opportunity to view the original work of this great master. The biggest celebrations are taking place in the painter's hometown of s'-Hertogenbosch in the Netherlands, which has turned itself into a sort of Bosch wonderland, not only with the largest-ever retrospective of his original work, but also with a number of Bosch-related activities around the old town. But exhibitions and special events seem to be taking place in every European city that owns a Bosch painting, from Venice to Madrid and Moscow.

In Berlin, the Gemäldegalerie pays homage to the great master with the exhibition Hieronymus Bosch and His Pictorial World in the 16th and 17th century, opening on 11 November with some of Bosch's original drawings and his oak panel painting St. John on Patmos, one of his most important works. The exhibition will also present four famous copies of his greatest masterpieces, including the Last Judgement tryptich (pictured above), painted by no less than Lucas Cranach, and will also present many works by some of Bosch's successors who saw the painter as a source of inspiration, further proof of the painter's lasting influence and importance.

LUCAS CRANACH D. Ä.: FLÜGELALTAR MIT DEM JÜNGSTEN GERICHT, KOPIE NACH HIERONYMUS BOSCH, UM 1524. © STAATLICHE MUSEEN ZU BERLIN, GEMÄLDEGALERIE / JÖRG P. ANDERS NIEDERLÄNDISCH. HIERONYMUS BOSCH: JOHANNES AUF PATMOS, UM 1500. © STAATLICHE MUSEEN ZU BERLIN, GEMÄLDEGALERIE / JÖRG P. ANDERS.

Bosch Fever

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www.bruecke-museum.de. Bussardsteig 9. T: 030.8312029. U Oskar-Helene-Heim. Off Map

Berlin’s collection of classical antiquities, housed inside a breathtaking Neoclassical building. Take in the mosaic floor of Hadrian’s villa, a wealth of Greek sculptures, and a number of Etruscan and Roman finds. To Jun 2017: Dangerous Perfection: Antique grave-vases from Apulia. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Alte Nationalgalerie A splendorous collection of 19th-century art. To 20 Nov: An Urban Landscape – A 360º Panorama of Rome on the cusp of revolution in 1848 by Graz-born painter Friedrich Loos. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6 with exhibition, €10/5 museum only. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1–3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Bauhaus Archiv

DDR Museum Learn about daily life in the former East Germany at this hands-on museum. Closets filled with GDR (DDR in German) fashion and a Trabant (the GDR car) are just some of the items on display, while photographs illustrate Communist habits, such as collectively potty-training babies or going on nudist holidays. Mon–Sun 10am–8pm, Sat until 10pm. €7/4. www.ddr-museum.de. Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 1. T: 030.847123731. S Hackescher Markt, U Alexanderplatz. E3

Bröhan Museum Starting in 1966, collector Karl Bröhan amassed hundreds of Art Nouveau and Art Deco objects and various paintings from the Berlin Secessionist movement. Browse through pieces of furniture, housewares, ceramics, and glassware from this fascinating artistic period. To 8 Jan: Martin Brandenburg and Hans Baluschek – A Friendship of Two Artists follows the friendship of two Berlin artists with diverging styles who were the early vanguard of the Berlin Secession. To 29 Jan: Do It YourselfDesign examines the historical development of DIY design, which was born during the art nouveau period. Open Tue–Sun 10am–6pm www.broehanmuseum.de. Schloßstr. 1a. T: 030.32690600. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Brücke Museum Founded in Dresden in 1905, the Die Brücke movement drew inspiration from primitive art and expressed extreme emotion and political opposition through lively, exaggerated color. Features the paintings of such artists as Emil Nolde and Erich Heckel. Wed–Mon 11am–5pm. €5/3.

(worth

MUST SEE Learn about the milestones in German

history from the Roman occupation of the Germanic areas to the present day. To 31 Dec: Focus Königgrätz. A deconstruction the decisive battle between Prussia and Austria. To 26 Feb: Cameroon and Congo – a search of traces and phantom photography from Andréas Lang To 14 May: German colonialism, Fragments of Its Past and Present confronts the controversial topic of Germany’s colonial past. To 16 Oct: Multicultural. Germany, a Country of Immigration follows the historical migration movements into Germany, from the quest workers of the 1960s up to the refugees of today. To 31 Dec: Focus Königgrätz. An exploration of the decisive battle between Prussia and Austria Daily 10am–6pm. €8/4 (under-18s free). www.dhm.de. Unter den Linden 2. T: 030.203040. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

museums (180) than rainy days (106).

An extensive collection of Old Masters’ paintings, a section dedicated to ancient coins, and many works of Roman and Byzantine art adorn the museum’s impressive interior, built by Ernst von Ihne in 1904. To 22 Jan: Canova and the Dance. Sculptures centering on the motif of dance. To 31 Dec: ONE GOD – Abraham’s Legacy on the Nile. Jews, Christians, and Muslims in Egypt from Antiquity until the Middle Ages. Tue– Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat– Sun 10am– 6pm. €12/6. www.smb.museum. Am Kupfergraben. T: 030.266424242. U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

permanen

Deutsches Historisches Museum

The avant-garde building designed by Walter Gropius is home to documents, photographs, and models illustrating the Bauhaus philosophy, which combines artistic beauty with architectural functionality. To 27 Feb: Lucia Moholy – The English Years. Presenting Moholy’s landscape and architectural photography work. Wed–Mon 10am–5pm. Sat–Mon €8/5, Wed–Fri. €7/4. www.bauhaus.de. Klingelhöferstr. 14. T: 030.25400278. U Berlin has more Nollendorfplatz. D4

Bode Museum

l museum Internatiotna exhibition 2,80€)

open daily:

mon - sat 12 p.m. - 8 p.m. sun + holidays 10 a.m. - 8 p.m. (24th December closed)

Potsdamer Platz entrance: Leipziger Platz 7 Hômmage á S. Dalí by DaVial

Altes Museum

Infos: 0700 - 325 423 75**| Tickets: www.DaliBerlin.de

(**0,14€/ Min. from a landline, mobile communications vary, max 0,42€/ Min.) *only in combination with the entrance fee. Cannot be combined with other offers. Valid until December, 31st 2016.

With over 450 exhibits from private collections this permanent exhibition provides general insight into Dalí’s virtuous mastery in almost all art techniques in Berlin’s lively city centre.

www.daliberlin.de

Deutsches Technikmuseum MUST SEE At the museum for all

things technology, the old locomotives and aviation rooms are the most popular attractions, while a Rosinenbomber, a 1948 Berlin Airlift aircraft, is mounted on the museum’s roof. A hands-on section allows kids to conduct experiments. Mon–Fri 9am–5:30pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €8/4. www.sdtb.de. Trebbiner Str. 9. T: 030.902540. U Möckernbrücke, U Gleisdreieck. E4

Take a walk though

Berlin’s history

Ephraim Palais Temporary exhibitions on local cultural history fill this great Baroque building. Demolished in 1935, the Palais was rebuilt in 1983 using its original façade, which had been stored in a warehouse for almost 50 years, and now hosts special exhibitions on Berlin's history and culture. Open Tue, Thu–Sun 10am–6pm, Wed noon-8pm. €8/6 (under 18s free, first Wed of month free entry). www.stadtmuseum. de. Poststr. 16. T: 030.24002162. U Alexanderplatz. F3

The Gay Museum (Schwules Museum) One of the world’s largest and most significant institutions for archiving, researching, and communicating the history and culture of LGBTQ communities. Changing exhibitions take diverse approaches to lesbian, gay, transsexual, bisexual, and queer biographies and concepts in history, art, and culture. To 20 Nov: Am I Dandy? Instructions on how to lead an extravagant life explores the wide varieties of what and who a dandy is. To 30 Jan: “So, It’s a Girl”: Homage to Erika and Klaus Mann. A focus on the two eldest Mann siblings whose lives and creative works led them everywhere in the western hemisphere. Sun–Mon, Wed–Fri 2–6pm, Thu 2–8pm, Sat 2–7pm. €6/4. www.schwulesmuseum.de. Lützowstr. 73. T: 030.69599050. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

©ISTOCK

1524. © Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, Gemäldegalerie / Jörg P. Anders Niederländisch. Hieronymus Bosch: Johannes auf Patmos, um 1500. © Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, Gemäldegalerie / Jörg P. Anders.

Museums

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

The Network

Jewish Museum MUST SEE Daniel Libeskind’s architectural jewel, shaped as a deconstructed Star of David, explores millennia of German Jewish history, including the alternating glories and persecutions of the community. To 29 Jan: GOLEM presents the figure found in Jewish mysticism in its iterations in art and literature, questioning what it means to be human. Daily 10am–8pm, Mon until 10pm. €8/3. www. jmberlin.de. Lindenstr. 9-14. T: 030.25993300. U Hallesches Tor, U Kochstraße. E4

People, Cables, Data Streams

Käthe Kollwitz Museum Introduces the powerful and tortured art of one of the most relevant German women artists of the last century. Her primary focus was the daily struggles of the poor and the tragedy of war. Featuring works from Kollwitz’s most intensive and emotionally-charged years. Daily 11am–6pm. €6/3. www.kaethe-kollwitz.de. Fasanenstr. 24. T: 030.8825210. U Uhlandstraße. C4

A new exhibition about the networked world

Kupferstichkabinett

For explorers!

MUST SEE With a collection begun in 1652 by the Great Elector and works dating back to medieval times, the institute known in English as the Museum of Prints and Drawings boasts 150,000+ pieces, including masterpieces by Botticelli, Dürer, and Goya. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 11am– 6pm. €6/3. www.smb.museum. Matthäikirchplatz. T: 030.266424242. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3 om n.c esig phd gra .de ly : po ege tion chla stra ans Illu g: B / taltun T D s © S Ge

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Märkisches Museum

Trebbiner Str. 9, 10963 Berlin | Entrance Ladestrasse | Möckernstr. 26 | www.sdtb.de

Documents, photos, books, and weapons walk visitors through 750 years of Berlin history in a neoGothic setting. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3 (under18s free; free entry first Wed of month). www.stadtmuseum.de. Am Köllnischen Park 5. T: 030.24002162. U Märkisches Museum. F3

04.02.16 Martin-Gropius-Bau 13:00

MUST SEE One of the city’s best art and photography exhibition spaces and an important example of early 20th-century architecture, the imposing building combines Italian Renaissance elements with local features, such as mosaics of allegorical figures. To 8 Jan: +ultra. knowledge & gestaltung explores the merging boundaries of reality and simulation. To 9 Jan: The British View: Germany – Memories of a Nation. To 15 Jan: Building with Timber – Paths into the Future. A presentation on modern architecture made of this renewable resource. Wed–Mon 10am–7pm. Prices vary by exhibition. www.gropiusbau.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 7. T: 030.254860. U Kochstraße. E4

Museum Berggruen MUST SEE A can’t-miss for Picassophiles. The Spanish painter is the star of this Charlottenburg museum, which boasts dozens of rooms filled with his paintings. The collection encompasses 75 years of his life and all of his creative phases. Expanded in 2013, the museum also features many famous works by Matisse, Klee, Giacometti, Van Gogh, Cézanne, and many more. From 19 Nov: George Condo. Confrontation. A retrospective of the American painter’s oeuvre. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 1. T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Museum of Asian Art The important collection of East Asian and Indian works includes fabulous lacquered objects, ceramics, Japanese paintings, and a section on art along the Silk Road. To 8 Jan: Torii Rei: Ise. A fifteenpainting presentation of the city of Ise and the Ise 44 W H E R E B E R L I n I N O V E M ber 2016

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BERLINER GALERIEN

NEW

The citywide art guide BERLINER GALERIEN contains the current exhibition program for Berlin‘s art galleries and museums. Easy-to-use street maps provide clear directions to the exhibition venues. The guide is available free of charge at Berlin’s art galleries and museums, visitBerlin tourist information, selected hotels, restaurants, bars. Pick it up!

The art guide BERLINER GALERIEN is ONLINE now! www.berliner-galerien.de Find all contemporary art events, locations, artists and districts of Berlin in a responsive web design with geolocation service. Usable for all mobile devices (Android and iOS). BERLINER GALERIEN also provides a weekly newsletter you can subscribe to online. Join the art life of Berlin! Be there!

M E M B E R S Galerie Albrecht Art Cru Axmann Kunst Galerie Galerie Berlin Galerie Berlin-Baku Galerie Bernet Bertram Bernheimer Contemporary Galerie Brockstedt Brutto Gusto C&K Galerie Camera Work Circle Culture Gallery De Freo Gallery Galerie Deschler Galerie Horst Dietrich Galerie Kai Dikhas Galerie Dittmar Edition Block Galerie Eigenheim Entretempo Kitchen Gallery Galerie Friedmann-Hahn Galerie Gerken Grundemark Nilsson Gallery Galerie Michael Haas Galerie Hartwich Rügen Galerie Hirschmann Carlos Hulsch Galerie Galerie Hunchentoot Galerie Irrgang Janinebeangallery Jarmuschek + Partner Galerie JeanMichelBerlin Jordan/Seydoux – Drawings and Prints Köppe Contemporary Galerie Hilaneh von Kories Galerie Kornfeld Galerie Kremers Lee Galerie Berlin Galerie Leo. Coppi Galerie Gilla Lörcher Anna Jill Lüpertz Gallery Galerie Martin Mertens Mianki. Gallery Migrant Birds Galerie Robert Morat – Schauraum Berlin Salongalerie Die Möwe Mutare. Galerie für zeitgenössische Kunst Neue Galerie Berlin Galerie Georg Nothelfer Photo Edition Berlin Podbielski Contemporary Galerie Poll Michael Reid Berlin Galerie P.W. Richard Galerie Root Schmalfuss Berlin Contemporary Fine Arts Galerie Thomas Schulte Galerie Michael Schultz Semjon Contemporary Galerie Sievi Galerie Springer Berlin Stella A. Subject Object – Art Involvement Tammen & Partner TVD Art Galerie Westphal Berlin. Kunst & Projekte Michael J. Wewerka Galerie Wichtendahl Galerie Woeske Gallery Zellermayer Galerie Zilberman Gallery Zone E S U S T A I N I N G M E M B E R Allianz Deutschland AG - Repräsentanz Berlin

PUBLISHER Galleries Association of Berlin (lvbg)

WB LVBG.indd 1

MANAGING BOARD Werner Tammen Andreas Herrmann Nana Poll MANAGING DIRECTOR Anemone Vostell EDITOR ART CALENDAR Frank J. Hofmann, M.A. kunstkalender@berliner-galerien.de

berliner-galerien.de 06/10/2016 13:06

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Despite being born in 1957, well after the start of the avant-garde period, American painter George Condo hearkens back to the radical days of the early modernism of the 1910s, and his bold and grotesque style has often been likened to that of Cézanne, Picasso, Matisse, and Klee. For the first time in Museum Berggruen (p. 44) history, Condo’s contemporary works will be shown and juxtaposed with works from the greats of modernism in the exhibition Confrontation, which also attempts a comparison of Condo’s existence, happiness, and demons with the lasting influence of modernism on contemporary art. From 19 Nov. Shinto shrine complex. To 8 Jan: The Ruins of Koco: Traces of Wooden Architecture from the Ancient Silk Road. A presentation of the ancient architectural traces found in the Xinjiang Autonomous Region in China Tue–Fri 10am–5pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €8/4. www.smb.museum. Arnimallee 25. T: 030.266424242.

Museum of Photography Diverse and comprehesive exhibitions curated from the Berlin Art Library’s vast photographic collection are housed in a Neoclassical 1909 building built for the Prussian army’s officer corps, whose lower two floors are occupied by the Helmut Newton Foundation. To 20 Nov: Alice Springs: The MEP Show/Helmut Newton: Yellow Press/Mart Engelen: Portraits. Portraits and street photography from Alice Springs, the widow of Helmut Newton; Helmut Newton’s paparazzi and police photography; and Dutch artist Mart Engelen’s film noir-inspired blackand-white portraits. To 8 Jan: Bernard Larsson. Leaving is Entering. Works from the German-born photographer function as a visual record of the most pivotal moments in Berlin history. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.266424242. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3–C4

Museum für Naturkunde Home to the world’s largest dinosaur skeleton, the natural history museum also features extensive collections of shells, insects, and prize-winning mounted animal dioramas. Tue–Fri 9:30–6pm, Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3. www.naturkundemuseumberlin.de. Invalidenstr. 43. T: 030.20938591. U Naturkundemuseum. E2

Museum The Kennedys When he delivered his famous “Ich bin ein Berliner”

speech, John F. Kennedy automatically became Berlin’s favorite US president. Tue–Sun 11am–7pm. €5/2.50. www.thekennedys.de. Auguststr. 11–13. T: 030.20653570. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

The German Spy Museum Delve into the world of espionage with two floors of interactive exhibits covering some 3500 years of espionage history. Highlights include presentations on James Bond and other famous fictitious spies and a laser maze that tests your agility to break into – or out of – compromising locations. €12/8. Daily 10am-8pm. www.deutschesspionagemuseum.de. Leipziger Platz 9. S+U Potsdamer Platz E3

Stasi Museum The GDR’s Ministry of State Security, the Stasi, has been described as one of the most repressive intelligence and secret police agencies to ever have existed. Explore the agency’s headquarters and learn about their spying techniques, inc. cameras hidden in watering cans or inside fake trees. Open Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat & Sun noon–6pm. €5/4. www.stasimuseum.de. Ruschestr. 103. T: 030.5536854. U Magdalenenstraße. Off Map

Art galleries Akademie der Künste Hanseatenweg The Berlin Art Academy’s long and prestigious history dates back to 1696. Today, this important exhibition space houses one of the most comprehensive interdisciplinary archives of 20thcentury art. Daily 11am–7pm. €6/4 (Free entry Tue 3–7pm). www.adk.de. Hanseatenweg 10. T: 030.200572000. S Bellevue, U Hansaplatz. C3

Berlinische Galerie

A modern art collection of 5000+ works of German and Eastern European paintings. From 25 Nov: Cornelia Schleime – A Blink explores this year’s Museum Story of Berlin Hannah-Höch-Preis winner, whose dissident work Almost 800 years of Berlin history arranged into in the GDR days resulted in her getting banned 23 rooms, each describing a different theme or from East Berlin. From 25 Nov: Tatjana Doll – New era and an atomic bunker for visitors to better World Atlas presents the Hannah-Höch-Förderpreis understand the WWII air raid experience. winner’s large-scale work that question An entertaining way to learn about the phenomena in mass culture. To 2 Jan: development of the city. Open daily 12×12. Each year, the IBB Video Space 10am–8pm. €12/5. features 12 innovative film and video www.story-of-berlin.de. artists in Berlin. To 7 Nov: Dada Kurfürstendamm 208. Africa celebrates the Dada centenary T: 030.88720100. You love Picasso? The with works paired with artefacts U Uhlandstraße. B4 Berggruen Museum has originating from Africa, Asia, and an impressive collection Neues Museum Oceana. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm. of paintings by the MUST SEE The 3300-year-old bust €8/5 (€10/7 during exhibitions). Spanish master. www.berlinischegalerie.de. Alte of Queen Nefertiti is the museum’s Jakobstr. 124-128. top attraction. Examine a worldT: 030.78902600. U Hallesches Tor. E4 famous Egyptian collection that includes many important papyruses, while hundreds of artifacts relate early human history. Badly damaged C/O Berlin during WWII and left abandoned until the 1980s, MUST SEE Contemporary art and photography the museum reopened in 2009. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm has finally reopened in the Amerika Haus, which (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www. housed the American library during the Cold War neues-museum.de. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. era. To 4 Dec: Gordon Parks. I am you. Selected Works. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3 1934-1978. With his weapon of choice, Parks used his camera to capture injustice and the fight for Pergamon Museum equal rights. To 4 Dec: Adam Broomberg & Oliver One of Berlin’s main attractions, the Pergamon Chanarin. Don’t Start With the Good Old Things But the houses the outcome of Germany’s early-20thBad New Ones. A Brechtian approach to century archeology excavations. The imposing documentary photography. Daily 11am–8pm. Ishtar Gate of Babylon with its glazed blue bricks €10/5. www.co-berlin.org.Hardenbergstr. 22–24. is a feast for the eyes, as are the Market Gate from T: 030.28444160. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4 Myletus, the reconstructed interiors of an Assyrian palace, and many other splendorous testimonies Dalí – The Exhibition to the ancient world. The altar room is closed for The permanent exhibit features more than restoration through 2019. www.smb.museum. 400 works, most from private collections, by

George CondoWindswept Figure, 2007Sammlung des Künstlers, New York© VG Bild-Kunst, Bonn 2016

Confronting The Old and New

Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

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the Surrealist painter, with a focus on drawing, illustration, and film. Dalí fans explore new perspectives of the artist’s life and work. Daily noon–8pm (Sun from 10am). €12.50. www.daliberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 7. Toll number: 0700.3254237546. U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Deutsche Bank KunstHalle With an emphasis on paper and photography, the Deutsche Bank’s art collection is a stroll along the timeline of modern art. Every year, the bank pays tribute to young artists by organizing an international prize. From 18 Nov: Bhupen Khakhar: You Can’t Please All. A survey of the courageous and internationally recognized artist from 20th century India. Daily 10am–8pm. €4/3. www.deutsche-bankkunsthalle.de. Unter den Linden 13/15. T: 030.2020930. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Gemäldegalerie – Old Masters Painting Gallery MUST SEE One of the finest collections of European art from the 13th to the 18th centuries. Lots of Dutch and Flemish painters, including Rembrandt and Vermeer, and a vast collection of Italian Renaissance art, including Botticelli, Titian, and Canaletto. To 6 Nov: José de Ribera – Etchings. He was young and needed the money. Focuses on the few but remarkable works by the virtuosic Spanish printmaker. From 11 Nov: Hieronymus Bosch and His Pictorial World in the 16th and 17th Century. A celebration of Bosch’s 500 years of lasting influence, featuring originals, copies, and work that was inspired by his. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Matthäikirchplatz 50. T: 030.266424242. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Georg-Kolbe-Museum An idyllic garden houses the former studio of German Secessionist artist Georg Kolbe, who used the human body as an expression of the human spirit, challenging the role of sculpture as a representation of mythological or heroic symbolism. The museum displays a wide selection of works and hosts frequent exhibitions. To 8 Jan: Alexandra Ranner. Karma Collapse. A retrospective of the Berlin artist and art professor’s surreal multimedia work. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3. www. georg-kolbe-museum.de. Sensburger Allee 25. T: 030.3042144. S Heerstraße. Off Map

Hamburger Bahnhof

Alice Springs: Malibu, 1983. © Alice Springs

George CondoWindswept Figure, 2007Sammlung des Künstlers, New York© VG Bild-Kunst, Bonn 2016

FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT wheretraveler.com

The permanent collection of this former railway station includes a selection of works from the Friedrich Christian Flick Collection, and the many temporary exhibitions focus on painting and sculpture from the past 50 years, as well as videos, music, and design. To 13 Nov: SCORES: Saâdane Afif, Christian Marclay, Ari Benjamin Meyers, Jorinde Voigt. Incorporating various media by visual artists into music scores. To 6 Nov: Capital: Debt – Territory – Utopia uses art, film, and objects to explore what exactly is value and capital comprised of. To 26 Feb: Ernst Ludwig Kirchner. Hieroglyphics. Hieroglyphic paintings as a sign of expressionism. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €14/7. www. hamburgerbahnhof.de. Invalidenstr. 50-51. T: 030.266424242. U Naturkundemuseum, S Hauptbahnhof. D2

Haus am Waldsee Since 1946, this Zehlendorf villa has organized contemporary art exhibitions that cover a wide spectrum of media and styles. Each show is complemented by events – lectures, concerts, and performances – for children and adults. The multi-sensory sculpture garden is one of the city’s finest and worth a visit on its own. For an unusual yoga class, try Yoga Amidst the Art, offered Wed 9-10:30am. To 6 Nov: Sven Drühl . Open Tue–Sun 11am–6pm. €7/5. www. hausamwaldsee.de. Argentinische Allee 30. T: 030.8018935. U Krumme Lanke. Off Map

Helmut Newton Foundation Before dying in a car accident on Sunset Boulevard in 2004, the art photographer donated all of his work to his hometown of Berlin. Best known for his nude photography of American stars, Newton now has an entire museum dedicated to his oeuvre. To 20 Nov: Alice Springs: The MEP Show/ Helmut Newton: Yellow Press/Mart Engelen: Portraits. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm, Thu until 8pm. €10/5. www. helmutnewton.com. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.31864856. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

Liebermann Villa on Lake Wannsee CL904 MUST SEE The former summer residence of artist Max Liebermann, co-founder and head of the German Secessionist movement. Before being dismissed and banned by the Nazis in 1933, Liebermann painted around 200 works in this villa, some of which are on display in his studio on the upper floor. €3 plus museum entry. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm (11am–5pm in winter). €7/4 (€6/4 in

summer). www.liebermann-villa.de. Colomierstr. 3. T: 030.80585900. S Wannsee. Off Map

me Collectors Room Thomas Olbricht created this space to bring together other international art collectors and to organize exhibitions, workshops, and concerts. The upper floor houses his “cabinet of curiosities.” To 2 Apr: My Abstract World , bold and intense abstract art. Tue–Sun noon–6pm. €7/4. www.me-berlin.com. Auguststr. 68. T: 030.86008510. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Sammlung Scharf-Gerstenberg The Scharf-Gerstenberg collection houses three floors of works by some of the giants of Surrealism, including Paul Klee, Max Ernst, Salvador Dalí, and René Magritte. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 70. T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Commercial Galleries C&K Galerie, to 26 Nov: Angelika Arendt: One Moment in Time. Joachimstr. 17. www.cundkgalerie. de; Michael Reid Berlin, 2 to 26 Nov: Stephen Bush. Ackerstr. 163. www.michaelreid.com.au; Galerie Root, 7 to 25 Nov: Andreas Amrhein, Juliane von Arnim, Margit Buß and others: Hot Sunday. Hardenbergstr. 9. www.galerie-root.de; Galerie Eigenheim, 5 Nov to 3 Dec: Julia Scorna: Solo show. Linienstr. 130. www.galerie-eigenheim.de; Alexander Ochs Private, 17 Nov to 16 Dec: Fritz Margull: The Printer’s Treasure. Schillerstr. 15. www. alexanderochs-private.com.

Portraits Of An Era Shortly before his death, legendary photographer Helmut Newton established the Helmut Newton Foundation (this page) in Berlin, with the wish that other photographers' work also be exhibited there to be in constant dialogue with his oeuvre. This month, the museum will be presenting a selection of portraits by Alice Springs, Newton's widow and portrait photographer in The MEP Show, featuring portraits of cultural icons such as Nicole Kidman and Luciano Pavarotti and images depicting the budding Los Angeles punk and hip-hop scene of the 1980s. www.wheretraveler.com 47

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DINING | THE GUIDE

Left: Restaurant Neni; This picture: the interior of Hummus & Friends; Inset below: hummus at Sababa.

Hungry For Hummus Sometimes, all it takes are a few simple ingredients to create something spectacular. It’s simple and it’s rustic, yet humble hummus is one of the most beloved foods of the Middle East region from which it hails. With Berlin’s sizeable Arabic population and growing number of Israeli expats, it’s only natural that hummus – smooth chickpea puree seasoned with tahini, garlic, and lemon – is a popular mainstay on the local food scene. From hip, new eateries to hole-in-the-wall snack bars, these are the don’t-miss spots for getting a tasty hummus fix. If you’ve only ever had hummus served as a cold dip, prepare to try it the Israeli way: hot, and served with various toppings as a main meal. When Mitte’s Sababa (Kastanienallee 50) and Prenzlauer Berg’s Zula (Husemannstr. 10, www.zulaberlin.com) opened in 2012 and 2013, respectively, they were possibly the first eateries to bring Israeli-style hummus to the German capital. Both make hearty, lusciously

smooth hummus with toppings like fried mushrooms, grilled meat, and shakshuka eggs poached in spicy tomato sauce. It’s hard to pick a favorite between these two, but the homemade pita bread at Zula wins points. A more recent arrival is Hummus & Friends (Oranienburger Str. 27, www. hummus-and-friends.com), a bright, spacious eatery just a stone’s throw from Mitte’s big New Synagogue. The chickpeas are imported from Israel and everything is kosher (not to mention mostly vegan). Besides the delectable hummus, the menu also features a variety of tasty side dishes like baked eggplant or roasted whole cauliflower with tahini sauce. The Neukölln district has long been home to Berlin’s Middle Eastern immigrant community, so head here to find authentic, no-frills eateries serving hummus and more. Palestinian Azzam

(Sonnenallee 54) and Lebanese Al Pasha (Sonnenallee 77) are often packed with both Arabic-speaking families and Englishspeaking hipsters. The hummus is addictive but try the musabaha too, like hummus but with a chunky, creamy texture. Get some freshly baked flatbread topped with za'atar (a thyme-sesame spice blend) for dipping. For a more elevated take on hummus, there’s Neni (Budapester Str. 40, www.25hourshotels.com) out west. This modernMediterranean fusion restaurant is the culinary star on the penthouse level of the 25hours Hotel, with a hip yet unpretentious vibe and amazing views onto neighboring Tiergarten park. To go with the various hummus options, there are Middle Eastern specialties like chickpea salad and baba ghanoush and chic aperitifs for sipping as you watch the sunset.

above left: stephan lenke for 25hours Hotels. Above right: © Ana Druga; Inset: Hilda Hoy

A staple of Middle Eastern cuisine has found its rightful place on Berlin’s food scene, Hilda Hoy found.

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M A K E H UM MUS, NOT WA LLS.

Recommended by Die Goldenen Schlüssel Deutschland e.V./U.I.C.H. Les Clefs d’Or.

Fine Dining For a complete list of Berlin's Michelin-starred restaurants, visit wheretraveler.com/berlin.

5 – Cinco by Paco Pérez Catalan star chef Paco Pérez’s very first endeavor outside Spain is this Michelin-starred restaurant in Das Stue Hotel. His aim is to tickle all five senses with avant-garde taste experiences that take full advantage of the flavors and ingredients of his home country. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.5-cinco.com. Drakestr. 1. T: 030.3117220. S Tiergarten. C3

Hummus & Friends R E STAUR A N T & BA R

Facil

Make your reservation: 0049.(0).30.55471454 info@hummus-and-friends.de

Situated in a glass atrium of The Mandala Hotel and ringed by the courtyard’s trees, Facil has mastered understated elegance in both its décor and cuisine. Double-Michelin-starred chef Michael Kempf is particularly masterful with seafood when creating his fine menus. €€€€. Mon–Fri L&D. www.facil.de. Potsdamer Str. 3. T: 030.590051234. S Potsdamer Platz. D3

Monday to Sunday: 10.30 am – 24:00 pm Oranienburger Straße 27, 10117 Berlin

www.hummus-and-friends.de

Fischers Fritz Pure, straightforward luxury is the formula at this restaurant in the Regent Berlin Hotel. One of just a handful of Berlin restaurants to earn two Michelin stars, Fischers Fritz will not fail to impress with its elevated cuisine and finely honed service. €€€€. Daily B, humuD. www.fischersfritzberlin.com. Charlottenstr. 49. T: 030.20336363. U Französische Straße. E3

Berlin’s most delicious restaurants

Horváth Austria-born chef Sebastian Frank built a reputation – and earned a Michelin star – with his highly creative, oftentimes minimalist use of seasonal ingredients, from sunchokes to candied parsley root to spruce needles. Wooden interior and lovely outdoor patio. €€€. Wed–Sun D. www.restaurant-horvath.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 44a. T: 030.61289992. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer The Hotel Adlon restaurant boasts two Michelin stars and a well-earned spot in the upper echelon of Berlin’s finest restaurants. No detail is spared in the creation of an unforgettable dining experience, presided over by chef Hendrik Otto. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.lorenzadlon-esszimmer.de. Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2661196. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Pauly Saal The chic, hip décor is matched by a menu of equally creative German cuisine, which was awarded a Michelin star in 2013. Meat dishes made from local game are a highlight. €€€. Daily L&D, closed Sun. www.paulysaal.com. Auguststr. 11–13. T: 030.33006070. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Reinstoff Chef Daniel Achilles didn’t earn two Michelin stars by playing it safe. The two nightly dinner menus at Reinstoff – one focused on regional tastes, the

©istock

above left: stephan lenke for 25hours Hotels. Above right: © Ana Druga; Inset: Hilda Hoy

DINING KEY Alc (à la carte): Prices are per person for three courses (excl. drinks) €: under €15. €€: €15–€40. €€€: €40–€80. €€€€: over €80. Restaurants listed in Fine Dining have at least one Michelin star. Letter/ number codes correspond to map at back of book.

Berlin www.wheretraveler.com 49

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DINING other incorporating influences from farther afield – are successful experiments in exciting, avantgarde cuisine. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.reinstoff.eu. Schlegelstr. 26c. T: 030.30881214. U Naturkundemuseum, S Nordbahnhof. E2

Rutz Wine bar, wine shop, and restaurant in one, Rutz offers perfectly paired meals by Chef Marco Müller, whose six-, eight-, and 10-course “Inspiration Menus” combine simple yet diverse ingredients into creative taste sensations. €€€€. Tue–Sun D. www.rutz-weinbar.de. Chausseestr. 8. T: 030.24628760. U Oranienburger Tor. E4

Tim Raue From his humble beginnings growing up in Kreuzberg, Tim Raue has become one of the bestknown culinary names in Berlin. Plumbing the Far East for inspiration, his namesake restaurant serves refined interpretations of Asian cuisine, such as his famed personal take on Peking duck. €€€€. Tue–Sun L&D. www.tim-raue.com. Rudi-DutschkeStr. 26. T: 030.25937930. U Kochstraße. E4

Charlottenburg– Wilmersdorf German/Austrian. Classic elegance permeates the high-ceilinged rooms of this café, reminiscent of turn-of-the-century literary salons. Snag a table in the greenhouse-like vestibule, or settle down by one of the grand windows to enjoy breakfast, bistro-style meals, or a glass of wine. €. Daily B, L, D. www.literaturhaus-berlin.de. Fasanenstr. 23. T: 030.8825414. U Uhlandstraße. C4

Duke Restaurant French. The Ellington Hotel’s signature restaurant is all about French haute cuisine with modern, creative twists. Both the à la carte options and the menu of monthly specials illustrate the restaurant’s dedication to top-quality best meat, seafood, and regional produce. €€€. Mon–Sat L&D. www.duke-restaurant. com. Nürnberger Str. 50-55. T: 030.683154000. U Augsburger Straße. C4

Glass Mediterranean. A 2013 addition to the west-end

gourmet scene, Glass is the baby of Israeli chef Gal Ben Moshe. Guests in the sleek, modern space get wowed with an innovative tasting menu that changes daily and the show-stopping “Candy Box” dessert, which includes a chocolate mousse frozen tableside with liquid nitrogen. €€€. Daily D, closed Sun–Mon. www.glassberlin.de. Uhlandstr. 195. T: 030.54710861. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

Kushinoya Japanese. This upscale Japanese restaurant makes

fried finger-food taste gourmet. The specialty is kushiage, skewers of delicate morsels like steak cubes, quail eggs, or shiitake mushroom caps that are lightly breaded and fried using a special nongreasy technique. www.kushinoya.de. Bleibtreustr. 6. T: 030.31809897. S Savignyplatz. B4

Lamazère Brasserie French. Proof that fine dining needn’t break the

bank is Lamazère Brasserie, a much-lauded dining spot that earned “Bib Gourmand” status in the revered Michelin Guide, a category commending great food at good value. The three-course dinner menu for €35 will allow you to sample various

From Steak To Oysters Neukölln’s oh-so-hip Weserstraße is known far and wide for its bar scene, but not especially for its dining. That is, until Beuster opened about a year and a half ago. To be fair, the full name of the place is Beuster Bar – and they do make some pretty great cocktails – but the food is where Beuster really excels. The menu is solidly European bistro, which goes very well with the characterful, antique-y feel of the place, an ambience set by features like a gleaming wooden bar, raw, unfinished walls, and old tiles. Enduring French classics are the kitchen’s specialty – look forward to things like steak tartare with matchstick potatoes, oysters, onion soup, steaks, Coq au Vin, and moulesfrites (mussels in broth, with more of those delicious matchstick fries), though German and Mediterranean dishes find their place on the menu too. Weserstr. 32. T: 030.41959780. www.beusterbar.com French food musts, like oeufs cocotte baked eggs, charcuterie platters, duck confit, beef tartare, and tarte tatin for dessert. Whatever the kitchen has cooking that night, every delicacy has that je ne sas quoi that has made French cuisine so famous. €€€. Tue-Sun D. www.lamazere.de. Stuttgarter Platz 18. T: 030.31800712. S Charlottenburg. B4

Paris Bar French. Many celebrities – including

Madonna, Sophia Loren, and Robert De Niro – have patronized this West Berlin institution over the years. The bistro-style menu includes French classics like oysters and steak-frites, though the legend alone is enough to draw guests. €€€. Daily L&D. www.parisbar.net. Kantstr. 152. T: 030.3138052. S Savignyplatz. C4

Zwölf Apostel Italian. The interior of this Charlottenburg

restaurant is frescoed like a Renaissance church, and the famed pizzas are named after each of Jesus’s twelve apostles. The thin-crust, wood-fired pizzas are sinfully delicious, as are the other Italian menu items. Second location: Georgenstr. 2, Mitte. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.12-apostel.de. Bleibtreustr. 49. T: 030.31 21433. S Savignyplatz. B4

FRiedrichshain Matreshka Russian. Simple, homey Russian fare. Borscht, meat-

stuffed pelmeni dumplings and their vegetarian equivalent, vareniky, a selection of Georgian wines, and, of course, plenty of vodka. €. Daily L&D. Boxhagener Str. 60. T: 0163.9870767. S Ostkreuz. H3

Transit Asian Fusion. The long menu of tapas-style Thai and Indonesian dishes, each just a few euros, allows diners to cobble together a meal encompassing a wide range of tastes and ingredients. Second location in Mitte at Rosenthaler Str. 68. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.transitrestaurants.com. Sonntagstr. 28. T: 030.26948415. S Ostkreuz. Off Map

Schneeweiss German/Austrian. With a crisply white interior reminiscent of snow-capped Alpine peaks, Schneeweiss serves upscale takes on traditional Austrian cuisine, such as schnitzel and goulash with Serviettenknödel dumplings. Rotating seasonal offerings. €€. Mon–Fri D, Sat–Sun B, L, D. www.schneeweiss-berlin.de. Simplonstr. 16. T: 030.29049704. S+U Warschauer Straße. H3

Courtesy of Beuster

Café Wintergarten im Literaturhaus

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RESTAURANT | BAR | CLUB | EVENTS

Hasir Turkish. The little Turkish grill house rumored to be the birthplace of the döner kebab in the 1970s has since expanded to six locations around the city. The original restaurant, near Kottbusser Tor, is a very popular spot for trying the full spectrum of what Turkish cuisine has to offer – far beyond the kebab. €€. Daily L&D. www.hasir.de. Adalbertstr. 10. T: 030.6142373. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Jolesch Austrian. The dining room is elegant yet understated and this Austrian restaurant divides its menu into two sections: “modern” and “classic.” The former means creations like smoked veal tartare with elderflower; the latter refined renditions of home-style dishes like Tafelspitz beef or schnitzel. €€. Daily L&D. www. jolesch.de. Muskauer Str. 1. T: 030.6123581. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

Kimchi Princess Korean. “Let them eat kimchi,” implores the website

for this hip, popular Korean restaurant. The house specialty is the meaty tabletop barbecue to be split between two or more diners, which comes with all the traditional side dishes including, of course, kimchi. €€. Daily D. www.kimchiprincess.com. Skalitzer Str. 36. T: 0163.4580203. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. F4

Sale e Tabacchi Italian. A stone’s throw from Checkpoint

Charlie, an area that’s something of a culinary wasteland, lies this elegant Italian restaurant known for attracting celebrities. Try the ricotta-and mint-stuffed zucchini blossoms, a popular starter. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.sale-e-tabacchi.de. Rudi-Dutschke-Str. 23. T: 030.2521155. U Kochstraße. E4

Open daily: Monday to Friday: 12.00 - 23.00 CET Saturday and Sunday: 18.00 - 23.00 CET Make your Reservation: Tel. 030 / 278 909 95 55 www.the-grand-berlin.com

Spindler German/European. Head chef Nicolas Gemin, formerly of Michelin-starred Pauly Saal, wows diners with upscale twists on German-European cuisine: Think cured salmon with beet pickles and ricotta, octopus and chorizo, or lamb shoulder with smothered Jerusalem artichokes. Also serves breakfast and weekend brunch. €€–€€€. Mon–Fri L, daily D. www.spindler-berlin.net. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 42. T: 030.69598880. U Kotbusser Tor, U Schönleinstraße. F4

Spindler & Klatt Asian-European fusion. Restaurant, lounge, and club in one, Spindler & Klatt makes full use of its prime river location. In the summer, the waterside terrace is a memorable spot to enjoy the menu of Pan-Asian dishes, from fine sushi to sizzling tuna steaks and dry-aged Irish steaks hot off the grill. Even in colder months, the chic, post-industrial interior – built in the 1800s as an army bakery – is unforgettable too. On Fridays and Saturdays, the spot transforms into a club from 23pm. €€€. Daily D. www.spindlerklatt.com. Köpenicker Str. 16–17. T: 030 319881860. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

MITTE

Borchardt German/French. A favorite hobnobbing spot

of the rich and famous, Borchardt is popular for both its food (especially the schnitzel) as well as the opportunity to see and be seen. €€. Daily L&D. www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Französische Str. 47. T: 030.81886262. U Französische Straße. E3 www.wheretraveler.com 51

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DINING Cookies Cream Vegetarian. A whole new kind of vegetarian

dining. First, there’s getting there, which feels more like going to an underground club than a restaurant. Then there’s the food, vegetarian eating gone haute cuisine, thanks to celebrity chef Stephan Hentschel. €€–€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.cookiescream.com. Behrenstr. 55. T: 030.27492940. U Französische Straße. E3

Chicago Williams BBQ American. A culinary ambassador for the American

BBQ tradition, Chicago Williams specializes in meat and more meat. Order a combo of sticky ribs, pulled pork, or jerk chicken, and sides like coleslaw, macaroni and cheese, or mashed potatoes. €€. Daily D. www.chicagowilliamsbbq. de. Hannoversche Str. 2. T: 030.28042422. U Oranienburger Tor. E2

Crackers German. Heinz “Cookie” Gindullis' latest entry into the hybrid club/restaurant space features an innovative bar that serves experimental drinks and a rotating roster of international and local DJs four nights a week from 9pm until late. www.crackersberlin.com. Friedrichstr. 158. T: 030.680730488. U Französische Straße. E3

Dóttir Scandinavian. After Dóttir opened in the spring of 2015, chef Victoria Eliasdóttir quickly became known as something of a prodigy. The confident and very talented 20-something Icelandic chef creates minimalist yet potently delicious Nordic cuisine, with an emphasis on the freshest seafood available. €€€. Tue–Sat D. www.dottirberlin.de. Mittelstr. 40. T: 030.330060760. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

The Grand German. The sophisticated supper club, with origins reaching back to 1842, boasts an American grill that makes its international array of steaks among the best in town. The upstairs lounge (and, in particular, its cocktails) attracts a decadent late-night scene. €€€. Mon–Fri L, Daily D. www.the-grand-berlin. com. Hirtenstraße 4. T: 030.278909555. U RosaLuxemburg-Platz. F2

Tech Tidbits Smack-bang in sightseeing central, in a historic building on Unter den Linden, is the hottest WLAN spot in the city. A mix between café and showroom, The Digital Eatery invites guests to experience Microsoft products first-hand while refueling with coffee and a snack. The latest tablets, Oculus Rift virtual reality glasses, and X-Boxes are all there to try out, with enthusiastic staff to fetch your game of choice and help set things up. The menu includes bagels, muffins, and freshly made juices, alongside a daily lunch menu with modern dishes such as antipasti summer vegetables and marinated endive, or halloumi-cheese-filled red pepper baked over quinoa and leek. And if your computer needs a little energy too, chargers for various devices are on hand. Unter den Linden 17. T: 030 390970. www.microsoft.com/de-de/berlin/the-digitaleatery/

Hummus & Friends

Käfer Dachgarten-Restaurant of the German Bundestag German. The Reichstag is for more than sightseeing. Thanks to the culinary team behind Käfer, it’s also a fine dining destination. On the roof of the famed landmark, Käfer boasts splendid views and refined, modern German cuisine. Advance reservations required. Due to security precautions, each guest must provide official photo I.D. upon entry. €€€. Daily B, L, D. www.feinkost-kaefer.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030 2262990. U Bundestag, S Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3.

Katz Orange German/European. Housed in a former brewery, the

warm, stylish interior decoration of this restaurant is met with a menu of top-quality, updated comfort foods. The kitchen’s pride and joy is the “Slow Food”

section of the menu, starring 12-hour, sous vide roasted pork neck, ribs, or lamb shoulder. €€. Daily D, closed Sun. www.katzorange.com. Bergstr. 22. T: 030.983208430. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

Nante Eck German. With delightful dishes

L&D. Schönhauser Allee 12. T: 030.44017333. U Senefelderplatz. F2

Lucky Leek Vegetarian. It’s not luck that makes Lucky

Leek so good, but rather a dedication to creating top-notch gourmet cuisine that is also 100-percent vegan and Locals usually tip incorporates international tastes. 10% on a The small but comprehensive menu restaurant bill. changes regularly. €€. Wed–Sun D. www.lucky-leek.de. Koll U Senefelderplatz. F2

from Berlin’s traditional cuisine and a menu that changes every month, the Nante Eck restaurant offers a refined cuisine made with fresh local ingredients. Specialties include extra-big currywurst with potato and cucumber salad and Flammkuchen pies. Very long beer menu. €. Daily L&D in summer. www.nante-eck.de. Unter den Linden 35. T: 030.22487257. U Französische Straße. F2

Prenzlauer Berg I Due Forni Italian. The atmosphere in this pizza hall is raucous and the service notoriously surly, but that doesn’t keep the pizza-loving crowds at bay. The generously sized and traditional-style thin-crust concoctions are famed around the city. €. Daily

Tiergarten Café am Neuen See and Biergarten German/European. A waterside location in the middle of the Tiergarten park makes this a lovely spot come warm weather or chilly. Besides satisfying meals, visitors can enjoy a seat in the beer garden or a row on the lake in summer or glowing fireplaces and games of Eisstockschiessen – a Bavarian ice game similar to curling – in the winter. €. Daily B, L, D. www.cafeamneuensee.de. Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930. S Tiergarten. C3

courtesy of The Digital Eatery

Israeli. Creamy, rich, and fluffy hummus with warm pita bread might just be Israel’s national dish, and with the opening of Hummus & Friends, it’s easy to get in the German capital too. Also on the menu are fresh, colorful salads and side dishes like roasted whole cauliflower with tahini sauce. The bar even serves kosher Israeli wine. €. Daily L&D. www. hummus-and-friends.com. Oranienburger Str. 27. T: 030.55471454. S Oranienburger Straße. F2

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ENTERTAINMENT | THE GUIDE

Keyboard Magic Solveig Steinhardt gets ready for a month of fabulous piano concerts. If there’s one thing that never fails to amaze me, it’s the number of top-notch classical concerts Berlin offers every month. Just look at the calendar in our listings and you'll recognize at least a couple of world-famous names: Barenboim, anyone? Or Martha Argerich? Yo Yo Ma was in town just a couple of months ago, Lang Lang is scheduled to come next summer, and conductors like Simon Rattle, Iván Fischer, and Donald Runnicles have been calling Berlin home for quite some time. For a piano lover like me, this November promises to be extremely exciting. Read on for the three concerts I am most thrilled about. Japanese-British pianist Mitsuko Uchida is not just extremely talented and full of character in her interpretations, she also has a very communicative personality, and her lectures on Mozart's Concertos, which can be found on YouTube, offer illuminating lessons on music and life for all audiences to enjoy. On 27 Nov, Uchida will be at the Konzerthaus

to give Berliners a sample of her "interpretive alchemy," as The New York Times once described her touch, with two of Mozart's Concertos, the powerful KV 453 and the moving KV 503, with its broad and splendid first movement and expressively vocal slow movement. On 7 Nov, the Philharmonie will host the Staatskapelle Berlin with Romanian pianist Radu Lupu, who will give us a sample of his rich sound palette and his ability to make voices emerge from the harmonic structure with Beethoven's Third Piano Concerto, a masterpiece of contrasts that perfectly impersonates the Sturm und Drang era of Romanticism, alternating between spiritual intimacy and powerful rage, also expressing the joy filled with hope for humanity that

characterizes much of Beethoven's work. Croatian-born Ivo Pogorelich, known for his interpretations of Chopin, earned legendary status early on in his career, but his controversial renditions and personality have divided audiences for decades. After a five-year break from playing concerts, Pogorelich came back to the stage last year with a rather debated performance of four big works by Liszt, Schumann, and Stravinsky that required a virtuosity that some say he did not manage to achieve. Despite that, Pogorelich remains one of the giants of 20th-century piano, and his upcoming concert at the Philharmonie (8 Nov) is an event I wouldn't want to miss, with a brilliant program that includes Chopin's marvelous Ballade n. 2, Schumann's Carnival Jest from Vienna, and Mozart's sober Fantasy in C minor K 475.

inset: © istock photos; radu lupu: photo by Matthias creutziger; Pogorelich, courtesy of promo; mitsuko uchida: decca © justin pumfrey

Left to right: Radu Lupu, Mitsuko Uchida, Ivo Pogorelich.

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Ballet & Opera Deutsche Oper A 1960s décor-free box of acoustic magic. Director and conductor Donald Runnicles puts together rich programs with lots of Verdi, Rossini, and Mozart. 8, 15 Nov: Tosca (Puccini). 12 Nov: Rigoletto (Verdi). 13, 17, 20, 26, 29 Nov: Die Hugenotten (Meyerbeer). 16 Nov: Die Zauberflöte (Mozart). 18, 23 Nov: Salome (Strauss). 19, 25 Nov: Un Ballo in Maschera (Verdi). 24 Nov: Die Entführing aus dem Serail (Mozart). T: 030.34384343. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Komische Oper Young and daring opera productions won this theater the title of Opera House of the Year 2013. Australian intendant Barrie Kosky is also the artistic director of some of the performances, with mesmerizing results. 4, 20 Nov: Rusalka (Dvorak). 5, 26 Nov: Il Barbiere di Siviglia (Rossini). 12, 19, 27 Nov: Evgeny Onegin (Tchaikovsky). 18, 25 Nov: Die Zauberflöte (Mozart). www.komische-oper-berlin. de. Behrensstr. 55-57. T: 030.47997400. U Französische Straße. E3

Staatsballett Berlin’s ballet company currently performs at various locations. 3 Sep: Season opening performance at Deutsche Oper. 3, 5, 6 Nov: Duato & Kylian. 10, 12, 24 Nov: Giselle (Adam, choreography by Patrice Bart). 11 Nov: The Nutcracker (Tchaikovsky). 27, 28 Nov: Sleeping Beauty (Tchaikovsky). Choreography by Nacho Duato, at Deutsche Oper. www.staatsballett-berlin. de. T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Staatsoper im Schiller Theater While its home on Unter den Linden gets revamped, the Staatsoper has temporarily moved all performances to the Schiller Theater. Daniel Barenboim’s perfect productions range from Baroque operas to contemporary premieres. 1, 4 Nov: Elektra (Dvorak). 2, 11 Nov: Madama Butterfly (Rossini). 13, 15, 18, 26 Nov: Il Trionfo del Tempo e del Disinganno (Handel). 17, 27 Nov: Die Zauberflöte (Mozart). 19, 20, 25 Nov: Sacre (Sasha Waltz). www.staatsoper-berlin.de. T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Classical Concerts Berliner Dom Berlin’s main cathedral presents a plethora of sacred music concerts year round. www. berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269136. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Hochschule für Musik Hans Eisler One of Berlin’s most prestigious music academies. Its students are members of important orchestras, choirs, and bands, and the stage presents hundreds of concerts every year – many of which are free. www.hfm-berlin.de. Charlottenstr. 55. T: 030.688305700. U Stadtmitte. E3

on this month theater, MusicaLS & Dance Blue Man group Bluemax Theater, all month

UNDERART Chamäleon Theater, all month

The one: Grand show Friedrichstadt-Palast, all month

The australian bee gees show Admiralspalast, 21 Nov

Pop, Rock & More Crystal Fighters Tempodrom, 1 Nov Underart at Chamäleon.

Chamber Music Hall of the Philharmonie Part of the Philharmonie, this concert hall presents daily chamber-music concerts and free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays. 6 Nov: Mandelring Quartett. 10 Nov: Emerson String Quartet. 19 Nov: The Sinfonie Orchester Berlin (cond. Nowak) performs Beethoven, Grieg, and more. 22 Nov: The Venice Baroque Orchestra performs works by Geminiani,

Red Hot Chili Peppers Mercedes-Benz Arena, 3 Nov

Placebo Mercedes-Benz Arena, 7 Nov dinosaur jr: courtesy of promo; underart: © matthias edwall.

inset: © istock photos; radu lupu: photo by Matthias creutziger; Pogorelich, courtesy of promo; mitsuko uchida: decca © justin pumfrey

FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT wheretraveler.com

Video Game NIght Tempodrom, 13 Nov

David Garrett Mercedes-Benz Arena, 26 Nov

Not Yet Extinct Holding cult status in indie circles since the ‘90s, Dinosaur jr. takes to the stage at the Astra Kulturhaus on 11 November, with their latest album Give a Glimpse of What Yer Not. The American alternative rock band, popular for catchy melodies delivered in their signature distorted style, reunited in 2005 with original power trio J. Mascis, Lou Barlow, and Murph, who have since been busy releasing four new albums. Mascis' trademark nasal articulation has often been compared to Neil Young's singing style, and the band's music is often described as a unique mix of hardcore punk, garage rock, slower Black Sabbath-style guitar rifts, and folk rock. Catch them live before they truly become extinct. Astra Kulturhaus. Revaler Str. 99. T: 030 20056767. www.astra-berlin.de

Ballet & Classical Madama Butterfly (Puccini) Staatsoper, 2, 11 Nov

Artemis Quartet Chamber Music Hall, 24 Nov

Ludovico Einaudi Philharmonie, 16 Nov

The Nutcracker Staatsballett, 11 Nov

Il Barbiere DI Siviglia Komische Oper, 5 & 26 Nov

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ENTERTAINMENT

Fairytale Days of Berlin Many classic fairy tales revolve around the heroic knight in shining armor, rushing to rescue a helpless damsel in distress. However, the 26th annual Berlin Fairytale Days (Märchentage), with the theme Sleeping Beauty Awakes: Girls and Women in Fairy Tales and Narratives, tell a different story. Strong female characters take center stage at various venues around Berlin as the heroines, sometimes saving a hapless man themselves or serving at the head of an army. 3–20 Nov. www.maerchenland-ev.de

Triple Englishness at CineStar Original, IMAX, and KulturBrauerei! Now: IMAX goes IMAX Laser!

Enjoy Berlin’s widest range of undubbed English versions all-day at CineStar Original and see undubbed versions of documentaries and blockbusters at IMAX as well – on Berlin’s largest screen! Our tip: Every first Tuesday of the month Sneak-previews in original version with german subtitles at KulturBrauerei. More Info and tickets at cinestar.de

(cond. Rattle) perform Webern, Schönberg, Berg, Brahms. 6 Nov: Das Sinfonie Orchester Berlin (cond. Wittmann, piano Yujin Kim) perform Borodin, Chopin, Tchaikovsky. 7 Nov: The Staatskapelle Berlin (cond. Järvi, piano Radu Lupu) performs Beethoven. 8 Nov: Ivo Pogorelich (piano) performs Chopin, Schumann, Mozart, Rachmaninoff. 14 Nov: The Orchestre Konzerthaus Philharmonique de Radio France (cond. Franck, This charismatic 1821 concert hall is the base Hahn violin) plays Ravel, Bruch, Tchaikovsky. 16 theater of the Konzerthausorchester, but other Nov: Ludovico Einaudi Ensemble. 18 Nov: The orchestras and soloists grace its stage regularly. London Philharmonic Orchestra (cond. Ticciati, 3 Nov: Chiaroscuro Quartet. 8 Nov: The violin Anne-Sophie Mutter) plays Schumann, Staatskapelle Berlin (cond. Järvi, piano Mendelssohn, Bruckner. 27 Nov: Radu Lupu) performs Beethoven. 12 Sinfonie Orchetser Schöneberg (cond. Nov: Vogler Quartett. 13 Nov: Bolkhovets) performs Mendelssohn, The Konzerthausorchester (cond. Rachmaninov, Bartók. www. Fischer) with Patricia berliner-philharmoniker.de. In its ‘36 Hours’ travel Kopatchinskaja perform Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: feature, the New York Times Schumann and Beethoven. 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer lists the Friedrichstadt-Palast 18, 19 and 20 Nov: The Platz. D3 as one of the top 10 Konzerthausorchester must-see places in Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester (cond. Fischer) with Patricia Berlin. Berlin Kopatchinskaja perform Schubert. Injecting new expression into 19th- and 25, 26, 27 Nov: Akademie für Alte 20th-century classical works under the Musik Berlin. 27 Nov: The Mahler Chamber Orchestra and Mitsuko Uchida perform Mozart and lead of Marek Janowski, the oldest German radio orchestra with its 103 members has won a place in Bartok. www.konzerthaus.de. Gendarmenmarkt. T: the top tier of European concert orchestras. www. 030.203092101. rsb-online.de. Tickets: 030.20298715. U Hausvogteiplatz. E3

Philharmonie The iconic concert venue is home to the acclaimed Berliner Philharmoniker, currently led by Sir Simon Rattle, but also hosts other ensembles and soloists. Free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays 1pm. 4–5 Nov: The Berliner Philharmoniker

DANCE AND EXPERIMENTAL SPACES Dock 11 Studios & Eden Avant-garde dance shows and contemporary

courtesy of märchentage

Marcello, and Vivaldi. 24 Nov: Artemis Quartet in concert. 26 Nov: Alpine Jazz, Christian Zehnder and the Rom Schaerer Eberle Trio. 27 Nov: René Jacobs conducts the Freiburger Barockorchester. 29 Nov: Marc-André Hamelin piano recital. www. berliner-philharmoniker.de. Herbert-von-KarajanStr. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

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performances inside an old factory. Two locations, one in Prenzlauer Berg, one in Pankow. www. dock11-berlin.de. Dock 11 Studios: Kastanienallee 79. T: 030.4481222. U Eberswalder Straße, Rosenthaler Platz. F2; Eden Studios: Breite Str. 43 (Pankow). T: 030.35120312. S+U Pankow. Off Map

HAU (Hebbel am Ufer) Cutting-edge shows and hip performances at this off-theater and cultural point. www.hebbel-amufer.de. Stresemannstr. 29; Tempelhofer Ufer 10; Hallesches Ufer 32. T: 030.2590040. U Hallesches Tor. E4

Radialsystem V Once a turn-of-the-century pumping station for the Berlin Water Services, this creative space is now a cultural center and idea factory that hosts performances of all kinds, from classical concerts to jazz jam sessions to contemporary dance. www.radialsystem.de. Holzmarktstr. 33. T: 030.288788588. S+U Jannowitzbrücke. G3

Sophiensaele Choreographer Sasha Waltz’s center for avantgarde dance, contemporary theater (mainly in German), music, and experimental performance artists. www.sophiensaele.com. Sophienstr. 18. T: 030.2835266. U Weinmeisterstraße, S Hackescher Markt, S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Movie Theaters CinemaxX Potsdamer Platz Multiplex cinema. Most of the movies are screened in their original language, with or without subtitles. www.cinemaxx.de. Potsdamer Str. 5. T: 040.80806969. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Cinestar Sony Center The latest Hollywood blockbusters, in English, every day. www.cinestar.de. Potsdamer Str. 4. T: 030.26066400. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

The best events in town

Odeon This old-school single-screen cinema was Berlin’s first English-language theater and still screens both cult movies and new releases. Hauptstr. 116. T: 030.78704019. U Rathaus Schöneberg, S Schöneberg. C5

Zoo Palast The historic seat of the Berlinale is situated near the Zoologischer Garten station and now offers English-language screenings of the latest blockbusters. www.zoopalast-berlin.de Hardenbergplatz 8. T: 030.254010. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Rock, Pop, Jazz A-Trane

Arena A very large music hall that used to be a bus depot. www.arena-berlin.de. Eichenstr. 4. T: 030.5332030. S Treptower Park, Schlesisches Tor. G4

B Flat Jazz Club Small jazz bands play almost every night at this bar.

©ISTOCK

Since 1992, this intimately sized but important venue (it was named Best German Jazzclub in 2011) has welcomed both emerging and A-list talent, including Wynton Marsalis, Herbie Hancock, and Diana Krall. Daily from 8pm, free entry Sunday after 10:30pm. www.a-trane.de. Pestalozzistr. 105. T: 030.3132550. S Savignyplatz. B3/B4

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ENTERTAINMENT Free jam sessions every Wednesday. www.b-flatberlin.de. Dircksenstr. 40. T: 030.2833123. S+U Alexanderplatz. F2

Café Bilderbuch Frequent jazz concerts and readings at this Schöneberg café. Second Wednesday of the month: Michael Gechter’s Vocaljazz Trio. www.cafe-bilderbuch.de. Akazienstr. 28. T: 030.78706057. U Eisenacherstraße. D5

Columbiahalle/C-Halle The multi-function event space hosts some of today’s most popular pop and rock acts. www.columbia-theater.de. Columbiadamm 13-21. T: 030.69812814. U Platz der Luftbrücke. E5

Estrel Festival Center Berlin Enjoy an evening with the world’s top look-andsound-alike artists and taste a three-course dinner during Stars In Concert, a live performance of legends like Elvis, Abba, Johnny Cash, Buddy Holly, and more. www.stars-in-concert.de. Wed– Sat 8:30pm, Sun 7pm. Sonnenallee 225. €20, from €60 with dinner. Off Map

Havanna The place to go for salsa, merengue, bachata, R&B, and Reggaeton. Check website for program. www. havanna-berlin.de. Hauptstr. 30. T: 030.7848565. S Julius-Leber-Brücke, U Eisenacher Straße. D5

KulturBrauerei The early-1900s brewery complex now houses various restaurants and art spaces, with a rich combination of programs, as well as a very popular street-food market most Sundays. www.kulturbrauerei.de. Schönhauser Allee 36. T: 030.44352614. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Clementine. www.tempodrom.de. Möckernstr. 10. Toll number: 0186.554111. S Anhalter Bahnhof. E4

chamaeleonberlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 40/41. T: 030.4000590. S Hackescher Markt. E2

Theater, Cabaret & Musicals

Friedrichstadt-Palast

Admiralspalast One of Berlin’s few preserved pre-WWII variety venues offers an international, high-caliber program of musicals, cabaret, and concerts in an elegant hall from the 1920s. www.admiralspalast. de. Friedrichstr. 101. T: 030.47997499. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Bar Jeder Vernunft A 1912 tent housing song-and-dance shows, comedy, and cabaret. Many shows in German only. www.bar-jeder-vernunft.de. Schaperstr. 24. T: 030.8831582. U Spichernstraße. C4

Blue Man Group The unmistakable Blue Man Group has its own permanent theater, the Bluemax Theater, where the blue-domed performers present an energetic combination of music, art, pantomime, and comedy. The few spoken words are in English. Shows take place almost every night. Check website for info. www.stage-entertainment.de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Chamäleon Variete An old ballroom where it is not unusual to see trapeze artists, jugglers, tap dancers, and cabaret singers. All month: Underart, a new circus performance by CirkusCirkör. www.

Special effects, glitzy Vegas-style live show productions at this modern theater. All month: The One, Grand Show, a dreamlike journey through time in search of the person we love. www.palast.berlin Friedrichstr. 107. T: 030.23262326. U Friedrichstraße. E3

Schaubühne A popular West Berlin theater in the 1960 and 1970s, this Ku’damm performance venue still hosts some interesting productions. Check website for program. www.schaubuehne.de. Kurfürstendamm 153. U Adenauerplatz. C4

Tipi am Kanzleramt The big tent in the Tiergarten has a vast program of musicals, magic, cabaret, dance, and theater. Many shows are in German.www.tipi-amkanzleramt.de. Große Querallee. T: 030.39066550. U Bundestag. D3

Volksbühne An experimental multimedia theater and cultural center where you can see plays, readings, lectures, concerts, and more. Check website for program. www.volksbuehne-berlin.de. Linienstr. 227. T: 030.24065777. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Wintergarten Varieté This sumptuous variety theater that has earned a reputation for its revitalized Vaudeville-inspired productions, as well as world-famous acts. www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Potsdamer Str. 96. T: 030.588433. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D4

Lido A former cinema turned club and concert venue for rock-indie lovers. Check website for program. www.lido-berlin.de. Cuvrystr. 7. T: 030.69566840. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin A massive arena for world-touring pop concerts and sports events, including those of Berlin’s professional ice hockey team, the Eisbären. 3 Nov: Red Hot Chili Peppers in concert. 7 Nov: Placebo in concert. 26 Nov: David Garrett. www. mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de. Mühlenstr. 12–30. T: 030.2060708899. U Warschauer Straße. G4

Quasimodo One of Berlin’s historic music cafés. Diversified program with many musical styles, from jazz to blues, R&B to soul. www.quasimodo.de. Kantstr. 12a. T: 030.31804560. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

SO36

Tempodrom This large concert building resembling a circus tent – and situated on the former grounds of the now-gone Anhalter Bahnhof – hosts an array of events, from classical concerts and pop-rock productions to mixed martial arts and dance. 1 Nov: Chrystal Fighters Live 2016. 7 Nov: Wilco. 13 Nov: Video Games Live. 20 Nov: Symphonic Rock in Concert. 25 Nov: Midge Ure in concert. 25 Nov: Glen Hansard. 29 Nov: Benjamin

Get The Popcorn Maybe it’s the big screen, surround sound, or the buttery popcorn, but whatever it is, going to the movies is always high up on the list of entertainment options, especially come winter. Unfortunately, most English-language films screened here are dubbed into German, but there are a few Kinos that stick to the beloved original version. CineStar in the Sony Center on Potsdamer Platz definitely takes the crown, with eight theaters screening all the latest Hollywood blockbusters. Near the Ku’damm is another venue: Zoo Palast, which was historically the home of the Berlinale film festival, and recently renovated to luxurious heights. Several cinemas run by the Yorck group also specialize in non-dubbed flicks, including the Rollberg and the Odeon, Berlin’s first English-language theater. Be sure to check the program for movies marked “OV” (original version) or “OmU” (original with German subtitles).

The heart of Kreuzberg’s radical scene. The Dead Kennedys and Die Toten Hosen played here a few times, while today’s program ranges from punk and hard rock concerts to flea markets and tea afternoons. www.so36.de. Oranienstr. 190. T: 030.61401306. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

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CHRISTMAS GARDEN BERLIN MIT DER DÄMMERUNG BEGINNT DIE MAGISCHE REISE … FROM THE PRODUCERS OF CHRISTMAS AT KEW IN LONDON

MORE THAN A MILLION POINTS OF LIGHT 300 M² ICE SKATING RINK INCLUDED!

17 TH OF NOVEMBER – 1 ST OF JANUARY BOTANICAL GARDEN BERLIN Book your Tickets and choose your time online at or www.christmas-garden.de * As well as at +49 (0) 1806 - 777 111 , at the ticket oﬃces at the Botanical Garden Berlin or at any other established ticket agency. *(€0.20 per call from German landline, maximum of €0.60 per call from German mobile)

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NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE

Club der Visionäre. Inset below: The Oberbaumbrücke, connecting Friedrichshain and Kreuzberg.

The Essence Of Berlin's Nightlife Whereas the west part of Berlin offers several posh clubs with costly Cosmopolitans, the gritty one-time industrial area of Friedrichshain is filled with makeshift factory dance floors, often along the Spree River, that don’t close until the last person leaves. Even the more traditional venues have a laid-back, accepting feel: "dress for yourself and not to impress" might as well be the motto here. The main drag of the district, Simon-DachStraße, is dotted with quirky international cafés and restaurants, as well as bustling bars and a historical movie theatre. Open since 1933 and decked out in 1970s decor, the Intimes Cinema (www.kino-intimes.de) screens older films, lesser-known productions, and sometimes new releases. Viewers can also sip coffee or

cocktails at its adjacent café. Indie films are also screened at the nearby Zukunft am Ostkreuz (www.zukunft-ostkreuz. de), a creative complex less than a five-minute walk from the S-Bahn station. It serves up a stylish smorgasbord of events every night, including live jazz and folk music, a brewery, and even an art gallery. The trendy but edgy Revaler Straße is filled with squats, flea markets, graffitied buildings and Cassiopeia (www. cassiopeia-berlin.de), a former industrial hall with a rotating live music lineup, ranging from jazz to hip-hop. To get a breath of fresh air, sneak into the club’s giant

courtyard and garden. If you would rather sit than dance while listening to music,cross the bridge to Kreuzberg's Club der Visionäre (www.clubdervisionaere.com) to sip cocktails in a glowing, dreamlike space while overlooking the canal. There is no question that the quintessential nightlife hub of Friedrichshain – and Berlin as a whole – is the techno club Berghain (www.berghain.de). The former power plant has a sprawling steel and concrete interior, with enough room for 1500 guests, and attracts the best DJs in the world. Just be prepared to wait in a long line if you’re keen on dancing into the next morning – or even afternoon.

©istock photos.

With its factories-turned-music-halls, colorful cafes and restaurants, and alternative street art, Friedrichshain is one of Berlin’s most lively districts, says Rachel Stern.

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Beer Ankerklause A canal-side tavern where drinks come with beautiful views of passing boats. Daily from 10am (Mon from 4pm). www.ankerklause.de. Kottbusser Damm 104. T: 030.6935649. U Schönleinstraße. F4

Café am Neuen See and Biergarten A pleasant lakeside beer garden inside the verdant Tiergarten park. Open daily from breakfast onwards. www.cafeamneuensee.de. Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930. S Tiergarten. C3

Club der Visionäre This canal-side boat-shack attracts young crowds till early morning and beyond. Daily from 2pm until very late (from noon Sat & Sun). www. clubdervisionaere.com. Am Flutgraben 1. T: 030.69518942. U Schlesisches Tor, S Treptower Park. G4

Dicke Wirtin This old Berliner Kneipe restaurant is a Charlottenburg institution. Great beer and traditional German dishes. Daily from 11am. www.dicke-wirtin.de. Carmerstr. 9. T: 030.3124952. S Savignyplatz, S+U Zoologischer Garten. B4

Prater Berlin’s oldest Biergarten serves simple and homely cuisine, seasonal specialties, and lots of beer of course! Daily from 6pm (from noon Sat). www.pratergarten.de. Kastanienallee 7-9. T: 030.4485688. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Schleusenkrug A relaxing spot for beer lovers amid the lush greenery of the Tiergarten. German specialties to go with your beer include a variety of cakes, Flammkuchen, and a few breakfast options. Daily from 11am. www.schleusenkrug.de. Müller-BreslauStr. T: 030.3139909. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

Casinos Spielbank Berlin A modern casino offering three floors of fun and games, including 20 tables of classic roulette, blackjack, and an extensive variety of poker options, as well as 350 gaming machines. Daily from 11am. www. spielbank-berlin.de. Marlene-DietrichPlatz 1. T: 030.255990. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3/D4

Wine & Cocktails Bar Tausend Celebrities mingle while watching the expert mixologists do their magic at this futuristic bar. Thu–Sat from 7:30pm. www. tausendberlin.com. Schiffbauerdamm 11. T: 030.27582070. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Fragrances ©istock photos.

©istock photos.

NIGHTLIFE

The Ritz-Carlton’s bar is the world’s only to pair cocktails with perfumes. Each drink is represented by a tester bottle of the perfume it’s based on and a photo illustrating the final presentation, which ranges from playful to whimsical. www.ritzcarlton.com. Potsdamer Platz 3. T: 030.337777. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

The Grand A former school building has been transformed into a super-hip restaurant, bar and club all mixed into one. Enjoy top cocktails and a selection of cigars on the green leather couches in the 1920s-inspired bar, then dance the night away in the chic, intimate club. www.the-grand-berlin.com. Hirtenstr. 4. T: 030.2789099555. S+U Alexanderplatz. B4

Green Door Cocktail Bar One of Berlin’s most relaxing cocktail bars, with a retro style and lots of kitsch décor. The cocktail list is long and the barman famous. Daily 6pm–3am (Fri–Sat until 4am). www.greendoor.de. Winterfeldtstr. 50. T: 030.2152515. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

Harry’s New York Bar An international drink menu with 200+ different cocktails, served to a jazz soundtrack. Mon–Sat from 4pm. www.esplanade.de. Grand Hotel Esplanade Berlin, Lützowufer 15. T: 030.254780. Bus M29, stop Lützowplatz. D4

LaBanca Bar The Hotel de Rome’s bar team specializes in avantgarde cocktails made with unusual ingredients such as balsamic vinegar, rose petals, or ginger beer. Live music Wed–Sat, rooftop terrace in summer. www.hotelderome.com. Behrenstr. 37. T: 030.4606090. U Französische Straße. E3

Newton Bar Cigars, champagne, whiskey, and cocktails define this bar, which is entirely dedicated to fashion photographer Helmut Newton. Daily 10am–3am (until 4am Fri–Sat). www.newton-bar.de. Charlottenstr. 57. T: 030.20295421. U Französische Straße. E3

Reingold A classic cocktail bar, 1920s style. Elegant leather sofas, sumptuous lighting, and gilded elements with a soundtrack ranging from soul and funk to R&B. Tue–Sat from 7pm. www.reingold.de. Novalisstr. 11. T: 030.28387676. U Oranienburger Tor. E2

Schwarzes Café A 24-hour combination of a bar and a café, with a good selection of beer and wine and hot meals at any time of night. Lovely garden in summer. 24h a day except Tue from 3–10am. www. schwarzescafe-berlin.de. Kantstr. 148. T: 030.3138038. U Uhlandstraße, U Savignyplatz. B4

Times Bar A fine and luxurious bar inside the Savoy Hotel, offering modern drinks and Caribbean cocktails alongside a selection of Cuban cigars. Open daily from noon to late evening. www.weinrotrestaurant.com. Fasanenstr. 9-10. T: 030.311030. S Savignyplatz. C4 Up for a glass of Valpolicella, Barbera, or Cannonau? Muret La Barba (www. muretlabarba.de) is the place to go for Italian wines. Rosenthaler Str, 61.

CLUB GUIDE Berghain/Panorama Bar The world's most famous techno club – and with the toughest doormen too. Fri 12am–Mon. www.berghain.de. Am Wriezener Bahnhof. G3

Kater Blau A top-notch soundsystem driving house and techno beats from the best DJs, and a carnival-like atmosphere. Fri–Sat from midnight. www.katerblau.de. Holzmarktstr. 25. G3

Tresor Housed in the safe of a department store, Tresor was the first techno club in Berlin’s post-Wall years. www.tresorberlin.com. Köpenicker Str. 70. F3

Watergate A two-story electro, house, and drum & bass temple, right on the Spree River. Tight doors. Mon, Wed–Sat from midnight. www.water-gate.de. Falckensteinstr. 49. G4

House of Weekend Three floors, fabulous views over the city, and the best DJs playing techno and house. Fri–Sun from 11pm. www.week-end-berlin. de. Alexanderplatz 7. F3

Clärchens Ballhaus A popular, century-old dance hall. It's salsa on Mon, tango on Tues, swing on Wed, cha cha on Thu, and live ballroom music on Fri+Sat. www.ballhaus.de. Auguststr. 24. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

Horns & Hooves An eccentric combination of club, piano bar, cabaret, and circus. www.hornsandhooves. de. Danziger Str. 1. F1

Gretchen Funk, hip hop, drum & bass and electronica at this eclectic Kreuzberg club. Fri & Sat. www.gretchen-club.de. Obentrautstr. 19-21. E4

Felix Club A favorite among the rich and famous. Mon, Thu–Sat. www.felix-clubrestaurant.de. Behrenstr. 72. E3

Puro Sky Lounge High-heeled crowds in a sleek, luxurious setting on the roof of the Europa Center. Wed–Sat from 8pm. www.puroberlin.de. Tauentzienstr. 9-12. C4

The Pearl Luxurious club for the poshest crowds, Thu–Sat until 7am. www.thepearl-berlin.de. Fasanenstr. 81. G4

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ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE USEFUL INFORMATION Emergency numbers Police, call 110 free from any phone. Ambulance or fire, call 112 free from any phone. Medical Services, T: 030.310031. 24h Pharmacy: Hauptbahnhof Apotheke.

T: 030.20614190. S Hauptbahnhof.

Tourist Passes and Discount Cards Where Pass Berlin: public transport and discounted entry to a long list of attractions. Get it at the S-Bahn Berlin machines and service centers. www.wherepassberlin.com

BERLIN AIRPORTS Berlin Tegel (TXL) Approx. 10 km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150.

run every 10 mins, taking approx. 20 mins. The TXL express bus to Alexanderplatz via Hauptbahnhof runs every 5–10 mins, taking. 25 mins. Single tickets cost €2.70 and can be bought on board. By U-Bahn: Bus 109 or X9 connects to the U-Bahn system at Jakob-Kaiser-Platz. Bus 128 links to the U-Bahn at Kurt-Schumacher-Platz and runs every 10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. Tickets cost €2.70. By taxi: Regular cabs take 10–20 mins to city center. Approx. €20–€35. Left luggage: Service center in Terminal A (ground floor). T: 030.41012315.

ASK THE CONCIERGE

Berlin Schönefeld (SXF)

Nobody knows the city better than your expert concierge. Carina Gerber, concierge at The Ritz-Carlton Berlin, is here to help. www.lcdg.org What does your perfect day look like? I like to immerse myself in the history of Berlin by gliding through the city's waterways on my stand up paddle board. Where do you take your visitors? I usually take my guests on a 6am walk on Marschallbrücke bridge, to show them the beautiful view of the Bundestag and the Spree River at dawn. Secret Berlin tips? Go enjoy good food and drinks while admiring the woodwork and art at charming Café Buchholz – maybe you'll even end up buying some of their beautiful objects. Describe Berlin in five words. The exception proves the rule. What do you do after work? Berlin offers lots of culinary highlights, and there is nothing more enjoyable than eating out with your family and friends. One of my favorite restaurants is Dóttir (www.dottirberlin.com), which serves Icelandic cuisine in Mitte. I also really enjoy going to the theater.

Which event do you recommend in November? The exhibition The British View: Germany – Memories of a Nation at Martin-Gropius-Bau. It walks you through 600 years of German history with artefacts that are normally on display at the British Museum. The coziest spot in Berlin? Restaurant Grosz on Kurfürstendamm. A great place to have breakfast. Tips for a German specialty? Berlin-style calf liver, served with glazed onions and apples like they do at Landwirt Berlin (www.landwirt-berlin.de). Favorite mode of transport? My bicycle. Do you know a romantic place in Berlin? The Skykitchen (www.skykitchen.berlin), Michelin-starred food with a view of Berlin’s rooftops. Images: Clockwise from left: The Reichstag building; A rhino sculpture from the exhibition The British View at Martin-Gropius-Bau; restaurant Skykitchen.

Approx. 20 km (12 miles) southeast of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By regional train: Deutsche Bahn-operated

RE7 or RB14 to Ostbahnhof, Alexanderplatz, Hauptbahnhof, and Zoologischer Garten. RE9 to Hauptbahnhof via Südkreuz and Potsdamer Platz. Trains take approx. 45 mins. Tickets cost €3.30. By S-Bahn: Trains S9 and S45 to Hauptbahnhof, via Ostkreuz and Südkreuz respectively, run. every 20 mins, taking approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.30. By U-Bahn: Bus X7 and X11 to Rudow station connect with the U-Bahn system and run every 10 mins. Journey approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.30. By (night) bus: Arrivals between midnight and 4am Mon–Fri can take bus N7 to central areas. By taxi: Regular cabs take approx. 30 mins to city center, costing €30–€40. Left luggage: At the multi-storey car park P4. T: 030.60911150.

GETTING AROUND Public Transport www.bvg.de.

Fares Buy tickets from machines in the station, and be sure to validate them in the posts next to the ticket machines. Single tickets cost €2.70; or save by paying €9 for four single-trip tickets, which you can validate as you need. If traveling fewer than three train stations or six bus or tram stops, buy a short-trip ticket for €1.70. Day tickets cost €7 for unlimited travel until 3am the following day, or if you are traveling with others, a small group ticket will get up to five people unlimited travel for €17,30. For those staying longer, a pass valid for seven days may be a better value at €30.

SKYKITCHEN: ©GEORG ROSKE; REICHSTAG: © ISTOCK PHOTOS; RHINO: COURTESY OF MARTIN GROPIUS BAU AND THE BRITISH MUSEUM, THE BRITISH VIEW.

TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By bus: Buses 109 or X9 to Zoologischer Garten

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ESSENTIALS U-Bahn

Rent a Car

The underground system is extensive. Most lines run every five minutes (less frequently outside working hours), 4am–12:30am (replaced by night buses outside of these times). The entire U-Bahn and S-Bahn network runs all night on weekends.

Avis: www.avis.com. T: 0180.6217702 (toll number) Europcar: www.europcar.com. T: 040.52018765 Hertz: www.hertz.com. T: 0180.6003690

S-Bahn

Würfelfunk: T: 030.210101.

The above-ground system is faster than the U-Bahn but less frequent. Trains run every 10–20 mins. Timing and ticket rules apply as above.

Money Services

Public Ferries

Exchange AG: Friedrichstr. 172. T: 030.20649296. Deutsche Bank: Kurfürstendamm 111. T: 030.8904370.

With a regular BVG ticket ,you can hop on one of the six public ferry lines. Most beautiful is the trip from Wannsee to lakeside Kladow village; ferries leave every hour and take about 20 minutes.

Rail Travel Deutsche Bahn is the railway company that manages the Regional Bahn (RB) and Regional Express (RE) trains, operating around greater Berlin and Potsdam. The Intercity (IC) and European City (EC) trains travel further afield. www.bahn.de. Toll number: 0180.6996633.

Rent A Bike Explore Berlin by bike. Deutsche Bahn Call-a-Bike service:

www.callabike.de. Berlin and Bike: www.berlinandbike.de. T: 0163.5120124.

MAP LICENSE NUMBER: BVG-0050.16; UBAHN: © ISTOCK photo.

Taxis

FREE TRAVEL ON PUBLIC TRANSPORT

ON STATITHE F O NTH MO

Banks and Foreign Exchange

Lost Cards and Cheques American Express: T: 069.97972000 Diners Club: T: 07531.3633111 MasterCard: T: 0800.8191040 Visa: T: 0800.8118440

Tax-Free Shopping German law entitles all non-EU residents to a VAT tax refund. Look for stores displaying the Premier Tax Free sign and ask for a "tax-free form." When leaving the EU, goods and the completed form must be shown to a customs agent, from which a customs stamp must be obtained no more than three months after the date of purchase. Goods must be unused. Present the stamped form at the refund counter in the airport, or send it to Premier Tax Free as soon as you reach your destination. www.premiertaxfree.com.

CITY GUIDE

CITY MAP

U2 Spittelmarkt U2 Spittelmarkt in Mitte has a unique calling card: It’s one of only two stations in the city to feature windows. (The other: U4 Rathaus Schöneberg.) The 45 windows facing the neighboring Spree River were bricked up in 1940 due to air raids, and weren’t opened again until 2006.

DISCOUNTS

STARTING AT 25 €

WWW.WHEREPASSBERLIN.COM

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12/10/2016 10:11

Where now | lukas opielka

My Berlin

Lukas Opielka Born in Poland and raised in Germany, talented young chef Lukas Opielka is the chef at BISTRO in Amano Grand Central Hotel, just a stone’s throw from Hauptbahnhof station, where he whips up modern, creative French dishes six days a week. Heidestr. 62, www.amanogroup.de Tell us about the culinary concept at your restaurant. What are some of the dishes you’re most excited about? The culinary concept at BISTRO is French cuisine with a modern twist, featuring seasonally adapted dishes and components with a lot of regional ingredients from France. My personal favorite signature dish is the marinated salmon with fried onions, apple and wax egg yolk – the egg is cooked in the oven for 48 minutes to give it a texture similar to wax. Another exciting dish is the sea bass escabeche with artichokes. What makes you passionate about food? I love to experiment with different foods and try different flavors and textures – no molecular cuisine, though. With just one ingredient, you can create so many variations. Even combinations that may seem unusual at first glance turn out to be the really harmonious and delicious ones. What brought you to Berlin? I come from Poland and moved to Düsseldorf when I was four, where I went to school and did my culinary apprenticeship. After working for four years as assistant executive chef at the Hyatt Regency Düsseldorf, I moved to

Berlin to take over the culinary chef position at the Grand Hyatt Berlin in the VOX restaurant. After one and a half years there, I started working at the BISTRO in the AMANO Grand Central last autumn. How would you describe the current food scene in Berlin? The food scene, from restaurants to snack stands, is a good mixture of fine dining, casual dining and really good fast food. The scene is currently dominated by many street food markets and food trucks as well. For the future, I hope that the trend will be about seasonal ingredients, for example not using kale in the summer but only during its real season, in autumn and winter. Using fresh ingredients that are in season, not exporting them from overseas. Which part of the city do you call home? I live in Friedrichshain, and I love to hang out and relax in the Volkspark Friedrichshain there. When you have friends visiting, where do you take them to eat? I often take my friends to my favorite Italian

restaurant in Friedrichshain called Pomodorino (www.pomodorino.de), a really cozy restaurant with great pasta. I also like to have dinner at the Fleischerei in Mitte (www. fleischerei-berlin.com) and also in my recent restaurant VOX in the Grand Hyatt (www.vox-restaurant.de). Imagine you have an entire day off. I would get up early to take my motorbike on a ride outside of the city. If the weather wasn’t good, I would sleep in and have a late breakfast at my place, then I would go shopping at the Designer Outlet outside Berlin. Then I would meet up with some colleagues, and go for a beer at Andy’s Diner (www.andysdiner. de). It’s where a lot of people from the restaurant scene in the neighborhood get together. Or I would go have dinner at a Greek restaurant in Kreuzberg called Taverna Dimokritos (www.dimokritos.de). Clockwise from top left: Fleischerei restaurant in Mitte; Lukas Opielka; the Märchenbrunnen in Volkspark Friedrichshain; Opielka's BISTRO resturant; one of Opielka's creations. Inset: pizza. .

lukas opielka, bistro interior and bistro food: photos by stjepan sedlar; fleischerei: courtesy of fleischerei; all other photos: © istock.

[Chef de Cuisine]

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