Where London April 2017

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London

®

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

An interview with Katherine Jenkins on her West End debut DANIEL RADCLIFFE IMELDA STAUNTON

. JOHN BOYEGA . SHEENA EASTON

A FULL ENGLISH

Where to enjoy the country’s iconic dishes

CHILD’S PLAY

Family-friendly fun in legendary kids’ stores

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Revolutionary Russian art Amazing Easter eggs Top cocktail bars

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Contents April

See more of London at www.wheretraveler.com/london

London

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®

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

An interview with Katherine Jenkins on her West End debut DANIEL RADCLIFFE IMELDA STAUNTON

ON THE COVER

. JOHN BOYEGA . SHEENA EASTON

A FULL ENGLISH

+

Where to enjoy the country’s iconic dishes

CHILD’S PLAY

Family-friendly fun in legendary kids’ stores

Revolutionary Russian art Amazing Easter eggs Top cocktail bars

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Katherine Jenkins stars in Carousel at the London Coliseum. Cover image © David Venni

The Guide

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36 MUSEUMS & GALLERIES The British Library and Royal Academy of Arts mark 100 years since the Russian Revolution with special exhibitions. 44 ENTERTAINMENT The Ferryman – the latest show by James Bond director Sam Mendes – comes to the Royal Court Theatre. 56 SHOPPING Keep the kids entertained at these child-friendly shops, including LEGO, Nickelodeon and a special Disney boutique in Harrods.

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Best of the month 14 PAINT THE TOWN PINK

6 WHERE NOW Cheer on the runners at the London Marathon, dance along to Bruno Mars at The O2 and get swept away by Little Venice’s canal festival.

20

10 STARS ON STAGE

We celebrate gay culture 50 years after the decriminalistation of homosexuality.

20 FROM LONDON WITH LOVE

Read our interview with singer Katherine Jenkins. Plus, we round up the stars you can catch on the West End stage, including John Boyega, Sheena Easton, Imelda Staunton and Daniel Radcliffe.

CHINESE EDITION | SPRING 2017

PLAN

2016-2017

PLAN DE

LONDRES ÉDITION E FRANÇAIS

It’s Easter! Take your pick from our springtime gifts, including luxury eggs and bunnies.

82 MY LONDON Tim Firth, writer of the hit musical The Girls, shares his favourite spots in the city.

TA L K I N G T O T H E W O R L D ’ S V I S I T O R S

LONDON

伦敦 | 中文版 IN LONDON CHINESE EDITION | 中文版 | SPRING 2017

LEGO © LEGO; ALICE’S ADVENTURES UNDERGROUND © JASON JOYCE; SWIFT COCKTAIL © ADDIE CHINN; POPPIE’S FISH AND CHIPS © GEORGIA GLYNN SMITH; PETER RABBIT SOFT TOY COURTESY OF JOHN LEWIS

22 SIGHTSEEING Let the games begin! The London Games Festival returns, with a giant Monopoly board taking over Trafalgar Square.

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奢侈品 | 时尚 | 美容 | 餐饮 | 文化 | 地图

We are the world’s largest publisher of maps and magazines for visitors. Today, Where can be found on hotel concierges’ desks in more than 80 destinations around the globe.

In this city, we also produce IN London – a portfolio of luxury magazines in Arabic, Chinese and English – and London Planner, the official monthly guide to the capital from VisitBritain and the Mayor’s promotional company, London & Partners.

62 DINING It’s St George’s Day this month, so we round up excellent English eateries, from traditional fish and chip diners to the oldest restaurant in the city. 72 NIGHTLIFE Enjoy a tipple or two at one of London’s newest cocktail bars, including the much talked about Swift. 76 WELLBEING Feeling unwell? Read our round-up of pharmacies and emergency doctors. 78 ESSENTIALS Miko Selcuk, head concierge at The Franklin hotel, shares his tips on how to make the most of your trip.

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Vol. No. 43 Issue No. 4 ISSN 0951 323X YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

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WELCOME

Editor’s Letter

SEEN BY OVER

7 MILLION THEATREGOERS WORLDWIDE

THE ORIGINAL. LIVE ON STAGE. Famous faces

DANIEL RADCLIFFE AND JOSHUA MCGUIRE © MANUEL HARLAN

Have you ever wanted to get so close to your favourite actor that you could hear them breathe? Well, you can, as famous faces from Daniel Radcliffe to John Boyega are coming to the West End stage. Meanwhile, when we heard that Katherine Jenkins was starring in a musical, we were keen to talk to this great British singer and get her on the cover (p. 10). Did you know that Vladimir Lenin used to visit The British Museum’s reading room under a pseudonym? To mark 100 years since the Russian Revolution, The British Library and the Royal Academy of Arts are looking back at the country’s history. Their exhibitions include propaganda posters, weapons and a letter signed by Lenin as Jacob Richter (p. 36). If you’re travelling with children, your worst nightmare is hearing: ‘I’m bored.’ We select kids’ stores, which will keep young ones (and you) entertained – including the LEGO store. Even I was in awe of the place, which includes a LEGO-built Big Ben and Tube carriage (p. 56). Not so long ago, English food was all about fish and chips, but it’s since come a long way – and what better time to indulge than on St George’s Day, which is England’s national day. Whether it’s at London’s oldest restaurant, or a revamped gastropub, there are plenty of places to try fine English dishes. Don’t forget to follow us on social media for competitions and travel advice!

SUSAN HILL’S

KOHINOOR SAHOTA Group Editor Where London Twitter: @WhereLondon Facebook: Where London Instagram: Where London

Daniel Radcliffe and Joshua McGuire in Rosencrantz and Guildenstern are Dead

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On your marks, get set, go! Watch the runners at the London Marathon, Bruno Mars rocking The O2 and the Harlem Globetrotters shooting hoops

THE LONDON COFFEE FESTIVAL THURSDAY 6-SUNDAY 9 APRIL

The annual London Coffee Festival at The Old Truman Brewery is a celebration of the drink, with barista demonstrations and interactive workshops. Gourmet food, live music, DJs and coffee-based cocktails will put you in a party mood. Test your tastebuds by sampling different varieties and watch beans being roasted. Look out, too, for art exhibitions and fashion stalls where you can pick up souvenirs. www.londoncoffee festival.com

OXFORD AND CAMBRIDGE BOAT RACE SUNDAY 2 APRIL

Watch the Oxford and Cambridge Boat Race – the men’s race has taken place along the same route, from Putney to Mortlake, almost every year since 1829. Last year saw tough conditions, which caused one boat to sink – what drama might there be this year? www.theboatraces.org

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LONDON MARATHON SUNDAY 23 APRIL

When can you see 40,000 people, from world-class athletes to ordinary members of the public, some in fancy dress, running through central London? Answer: during the London Marathon, which is now in its 38th year. The 26-mile race passes iconic sights such as the Tower of London and the Cutty Sark, along the Thames and through St James’s Park, before its spectacular finish down The Mall, in full view of Buckingham Palace. www.virginmoneylondonmarathon.com

BRUNO MARS TUESDAY 18-SATURDAY 22 APRIL

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Peter Gene Hernandez – better known as Grammy Award-winner Bruno Mars – is performing at iconic music venue The O2 in Greenwich as part of his 24K Magic World Tour. Expect new tunes from his latest album, 24K Magic, alongside some old favourites such as Just the Way You Are and Uptown Funk. www.theo2.co.uk

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TALL SHIPS ROYAL GREENWICH FESTIVAL THURSDAY 13-SUNDAY 16 APRIL

Step aboard an impressive array of 40 ships from around the world during the Tall Ships Royal Greenwich festival. The fleet of ships takes to the Thames in Greenwich and Woolwich, offering themed activities and a firework display. At the Parade of Sail on 16 Apr at 5pm, you can watch the vessels sail down the river in convoy. www.tallshipsevents.com

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VAISAKHI FESTIVAL SATURDAY 29 APRIL

This lively festival sees more than 20 million people across the world celebrating the Sikh new year. In central London you can join the events in Trafalgar Square (noon-6pm), including traditional dancing, folk music, turban tying, street food, Sikh artwork and plenty of fun activities for children. The event was originally a harvest festival in Punjab before it became the most important festival for Sikhs. www.visitlondon.com

CANALWAY CAVALCADE FESTIVAL FROM SATURDAY 29 APRIL-MONDAY 1 MAY

It’s hard to believe that you’re in London when you visit the Grand Union Canal in Little Venice. A 12-minute walk from Paddington Station, the area is one of London’s most tranquil spots and comes alive during the free annual Canalway Cavalcade festival. Admire a pageant of boats decorated with bunting and fairy lights, watch Morris dancing, shop for art and crafts and catch a traditional Punch and Judy show. www.waterways.org.uk

HARLEM GLOBETROTTERS SUNDAY 16 APRIL

The world’s most famous basketball troupe, the Harlem Globetrotters, make a welcome return to the capital at The O2 arena. Watch this star-studded American basketball team bring their athletic wizardry to the court, with trick shots, rim-rattling dunks and a whole host of fast-talking comedy. After the game, Harlem Globetrotter stars will sign autographs for fans and pose for photos. www.theo2.co.uk

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HOT DATES

APRIL CS thex

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Be amazed by beautiful jellyfish at SEA LIFE London Aquarium (p. 24) Step on to a giant Monopoly board during the London Games Festival (p. 22)

Chicks’ Great EGGscape takes place at the Bank of England Museum (p. 38) John Mayall plays at Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club tonight (p. 54)

Queer British Art, including work by David Hockney, opens at Tate Britain (p. 43) Wake up and smell the coffee! The London Coffee Festival begins (p. 6) Katherine Jenkins stars on stage in Carousel at the London Coliseum (p. 10)

Flashback – A Tribute to Hindi Cinema takes place at Cadogan Hall (p. 54) The BFI & Radio Times Television Festival takes place at the BFI Southbank Hop on board City Cruises for a different view of the city from the river (p. 31) Andrew Garfield stars in Angels in America: A Gay Fantasia at the National (p. 15) Climb aboard the London Eye for a wonderful view across London (p. 27) The spectacular Tall Ships Royal Greenwich Festival sails into the capital today (p. 7) Scare yourself at Leporiphobia at The London Bridge Experience (p. 27) Go down the rabbit hole during Alice’s Adventures Underground (p. 46) Listen to the sounds of the Castalian String Quartet at Wigmore Hall (p. 52) It’s your final day to see The Moomins at Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew (p. 26) Bruno Mars brings some funk and soul to The O2 arena (p. 7) Simon Stephens’ new play Nuclear War opens at the Royal Court theatre Head out of the city to visit the Queen’s weekend home, Windsor Castle (p. 34)

The Resistible Rise of Arturo Ui, starring Lenny Henry, is on at the Donmar (p. 48) Footloose: The Musical dances its way in to the New Wimbledon Theatre (p. 46) Cheer on top athletes and the public as they run the London Marathon (p. 7) Sam Mendes directs The Ferryman, which opens at the Royal Court theatre (p. 44) Puccini’s tearjerker Madama Butterfly closes at the Royal Opera House (p. 50) See Turner Prize-winner Chris Ofili’s vibrant tapestry at The National Gallery (p. 38) Sergey Ponomarev’s A Lens on Syria opens at the Imperial War Museum (p. 40) The British Library marks 100 years since the Russian Revolution (p. 36) Get swept away by the beauty of Little Venice at the Canalway Cavalcade festival

Breakin’ Convention, a hip-hop dance festival, takes place at Sadler’s Wells

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PREVIOUS PAGES: LONDON MARATHON © DAVID LEVENSON; COFFEE AND BOAT RACE © ISTOCK; BRUNO MARS © ATLANTIC RECORDS; TALL SHIPS COURTESY OF ROYAL GREENWICH TALL SHIPS FESTIVAL. THIS PAGE: VAISAKHI FESTIVAL © TOM SIMPSON/GREATER LONDON AUTHORITY; CANAL CAVALCADE © IWA; HARLEM GLOBETROTTERS COURTESY OF THE O2

WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

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STEP INTO THE

FORBIDDEN FOREST

NEW FOR 2017 Follow the winding path deep into the forest, explore breathtaking sets and find out how filmmakers brought the magic to life T I C K E T S M U S T B E P U R C H A S E D I N A DVA N C E AT W B S T U D I OTO U R . CO . U K TM & © 2017 Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc. Harry Potter Publishing Rights © JKR.

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WHERE NOW | FAMOUS FACES

nce you’ve sung for the Queen, where do you go from there? For soprano Katherine Jenkins – who received an OBE in 2014 for her services to music – the next move is to star in one of her first major acting roles, in the iconic musical Carousel at the London Coliseum. So why did the role appeal? ‘I’ve always loved singing – I was inspired as a child by watching West End musicals,’ says Jenkins. ‘My mum took me to see Phillip Schofield in Joseph and the Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat when I was seven and I was hooked. I remember feeling energy radiating off the stage. I’m a huge fan of the West End and musical theatre and I’d always secretly hoped to be in a musical. ‘Carousel is one of the greatest musicals of all time, and this version has an outstanding orchestra playing in a beautiful theatre. I’ll also be performing with my friend Alfie [Boe]. It appealed because of its music – I found myself humming it all day, and the songs put me in a good mood. ‘I’ve never done anything like this before in my adult career – it’s an amazing opportunity for me but I’ll probably be nervous. So I want to give everything I have to the role. I’ve been working on the music, the choreography and with an accent coach to perfect an American accent. My husband [Andrew Levitas] is from the States, so I hear

it spoken at home, but I don’t practice in front of him. The first time he’ll hear my accent will be when I’m on stage!’

Based on the 1909 Budapest play Liliom by Ferenc Molnár, and adapted by Benjamin F Glaser, Carousel opened on Broadway in 1945 and hit the West End for the first time

five years later. This version is directed by Lonny Price (Sunset Boulevard, Sweeney Todd: The Demon Barber of Fleet Street), and features music by Richard Rodgers and lyrics by Oscar Hammerstein II – the team behind Oklahoma! and many more. The English National Opera’s 40-piece orchestra and chorus accompany the cast. Expect to recognise classic songs such as You’ll Never Walk Alone, Mister Snow, June

is Bustin’ Out All Over and the duet, If I Loved You – Jenkins’ favourite. ‘I’ve sung it in concert many, many times,’ she says. ‘But in the context of the musical, it feels so emotional; it’s clever and beautiful. I hope the audience will leave singing the songs.’ Jenkins plays millworker Julie Jordan, who falls for Billy Bigelow, a charming rascal from Maine. Bigelow is played by Boe, a tenor and actor best known for playing Jean Valjean in the stage version of Les Misérables. Keen to provide for Jordan and their unborn child, Bigelow takes part in a robbery. When it goes wrong, he commits suicide – but Heaven gives him the chance to redeem himself by sending him back to earth 16 years later to make amends. Upon his return he discovers his daughter Louise has become a lonely, troubled teenager, haunted by his legacy – encouraging Bigelow to vow to restore pride to his family. If, like Bigelow, Jenkins had a second chance, what would she change? ‘I lost my dad at 15, so if I could I’d go back and enjoy more moments with him,’ she says. ‘I’d make the most of him. I don’t have adult memories of him, so I’d like us to have more conversations.’ Jenkins is enjoying Carousel so much she’d love to do more stage work. ‘Musicals are my inspiration and passion,’ she says. ‘So Carousel will be good practice for me – I think I’ll massively enjoy it. I’d also love to play Anna in The King and I – it’s an amazing, old-fashioned musical, which, like Carousel, has stood the test of time.’ From 7 Apr. London Coliseum, St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4ES. T: 020-7845 9300. www.eno.org Inset: Katherine Jenkins and Alfie Boe at the London Coliseum Right: Katherine Jenkins

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KATHERINE JENKINS AND ALFIE BOE © MATT CROCKETT; MAIN KATHERINE JENKINS © DAVID VENNI

Superstar Katherine Jenkins has sung the Welsh national anthem at Cardiff ’s Millennium Stadium and sung for the Queen. Now she is treading the boards in an unexpected role, and she’s not the only one. Sarah Riches interviews the opera singer to find out more


@wherelondon gave you the opportunity on Twitter to put your questions to the star – here are the top four tweets Do you miss Hunt’s pasties and Joe’s Ice Cream Parlour when you’re away? I do, very much so! I used to have a Cornish pasty but now I’m vegetarian I have the veggie one. And I always have chocolate ice cream – if you’re going to have it, you might as well go the whole hog. I also miss cockles and lava bread; they’re staple foods from Neath Market. Are you planning on releasing another book like Time to Say Hello? My autobiography, Time to Say Hello, was my first book, which I wrote when I was 27. So I think I need to give myself lots of space until I write another one – maybe I’ll write the next one in 27 years’ time! What’s your favourite venue to sing at? It has to be the Royal Albert Hall. Every time I walk on stage there it takes my breath away. The London Coliseum is also a dream come true. I saw Giselle there earlier this year.

KATHERINE JENKINS AND ALFIE BOE © MATT CROCKETT; MAIN KATHERINE JENKINS © DAVID VENNI

How do you cope with fame? I try to lead a normal life outside of my performances. My friends are from before I was famous, I have my family and I try to maintain my privacy and a sense of normality.

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WHERE NOW | FAMOUS FACES

Rosen & Guilde crantz Dead, T nstern are om best-kn Stoppard’s o major p wn and first la initially y, appeared a producti s an amateur on in Ed inburg in Augu st 1966 h

John Boyega has come a long way since playing a gang leader who saves Brixton from aliens in Attack the Block in 2011. In 2015 he starred in a film that most actors would break a leg for: Star Wars: The Force Awakens. While Boyega could walk into any blockbuster role, he has opted to return to the stage with Woyzeck (from 13 May) at The Old Vic. Boyega plays a soldier in this drama set between East and West Berlin. The force is strong with this one. www.oldvictheatre.com

Imelda Staunton – who is best known for winning a BAFTA for her role as a leading actress in Vera Drake – co-stars in a new version of Who’s Afraid of Virginia Woolf ? at the Harold Pinter Theatre. Directed by Royal Court favourite James Macdonald, the production is based on the 1962 Broadway play by the late Edward Albee, which inspired the 1966 film starring Elizabeth Taylor. Staunton plays Martha alongside the Olivier

Award-winner Conleth Hill (Game of Thrones ) as George. They play a married couple who rely on fantasy and delusion to retreat from their volatile relationship. Following a party on an American university campus, Martha invites new professor Nick (Luke Treadaway) and his wife Honey (Imogen Poots) round. But as the drinks flow, Martha and George swap insults, making their guests uncomfortable. The toxic gathering ends when Martha reveals a bizarre truth. www.whosafraidofvirginiawoolf.co.uk

SHEENA EASTON COURTESY OF 42ND STREET; DANIEL RADCLIFFE © MANUEL HARLAN; JOHN BOYEGA © AKSE P19; IMELDA STAUNTON © CHARLIE GRAY

When a novel becomes a Hollywood film and an award-winning Broadway and West End musical, you know you’re on to something – so the new production of 42nd Street at Theatre Royal, Drury Lane is not to be missed. Directed by Mark Bramble, the romantic comedy follows the staging of a musical during the Great Depression. Grammy Award-winning singer Sheena Easton plays a Broadway star who is injured on opening night, giving an unknown actress a shot at stardom. Bramble says: ‘The original looked like a Warner Brothers black-and-white film. This time we’re doing an MGM Technicolor version, with additional songs and dances.’ www.reallyusefultheatres.co.uk

Harry Potter made him a household name, but in recent years Daniel Radcliffe has proven that there is more to him than being a wizard. He’s starred in the West End and on Broadway in Privacy, How to Succeed in Business without Really Trying and Equus – a show which saw him play a disturbed stable boy, and appear nude on stage. Now Radcliffe is set to wow audiences again as Rosencrantz in Tom Stoppard’s Rosencrantz & Guildenstern are Dead, 50 years after it premiered at The Old Vic. Directed by David Leveaux, the awardwinning tragic comedy follows two hapless minor characters from William Shakespeare’s Hamlet who, in this play, take centre stage. Forgetful and out of their depth, the double act stumble their way in and out of the action. www.oldvictheatre.com

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GAY’S THE WORD COURTESY OF GAY’S THE WORD; MUSEUM OF TRANSOLOGY SHOES © KATY DAVIES; ANDREW GARFIELD © JASON BELL; ALL OTHER IMAGES © ISTOCK

Whether you’re gay, straight, lesbian, bisexual or transgender, London welcomes you with open arms, so take the opportunity to broaden your horizons and paint the town pink, says Sam Rogg

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GAY’S THE WORD COURTESY OF GAY’S THE WORD; MUSEUM OF TRANSOLOGY SHOES © KATY DAVIES; ANDREW GARFIELD © JASON BELL; ALL OTHER IMAGES © ISTOCK

LGBT+ | WHERE NOW

s you walk through Soho, an area famed for its flamboyant shops and fun-loving bars, it’s hard to believe that being gay was ever a crime in London. And yet until 1967, like much of the world, you could be convicted in England simply for loving the wrong person. This year marks the 50th anniversary of the decriminalisation of homosexuality in this country, and while the transition hasn’t always been smooth, today the capital boasts one of the largest gay populations in Europe and a thriving LGBT+ scene that can be enjoyed by all.

Left: Pride celebrations This page, clockwise from top left: Gay’s the Word bookshop; Pride; shoes from the Museum of Transology exhibition

Elsewhere in the city, you’ll find a ‘gay village’ in the south in Vauxhall. Why not join a sightseeing, shopping, culture or history tour through London Gay Tours (www.londongaytours.com)? Alternatively, plot your own walking tour that takes in such sights as the first gay bar in the UK, The Cave of the Golden Calf, at 9 Heddon Street (now a Gordon Ramsay restaurant); the sculpture A Conversation with Oscar Wilde at 3 Adelaide Street; Gay’s SOHO AND BEYOND the Word bookshop Spanning one square at 66 Marchmont mile near Oxford Street, Street; and Enigma Soho is the capital’s code-breaker Alan most famous district Turing’s birthplace at and the historic epicentre Andrew Garfi eld is starring 2 Warrington Crescent of London’s LGBT+ scene. in Angels in America in Little Venice (now the It’s here that people of all four-star hotel The Colonnade). sexualities have sought refuge This year, some of the country’s over the centuries, including writer magnifi cent Historic Royal Palaces Oscar Wilde, who was eventually jailed for his indiscretion. They were drawn to the area by its are exploring LGBT+ stories from the royal streets lined with liberal-minded theatres, pubs courts, including a Pride, Power and Politics tour at the Tower of London (26-27 May), and shops, many of which still stand today. where you can discover how the close male friendships of King Edward II and his treatment of his favourites resulted in the rebellion of the earls and many executions. Hampton Court Palace will also be looking at the hidden stories of some of its most famous former inhabitants, including Queen Anne, who is believed to have enjoyed an intimate relationship with her Mistress of the Robes.

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‘Angels in America is possibly the greatest modern classic – a modern-day Greek tragedy that leaves us with hope. These characters go through torturous journeys but they are, in their own ways, pioneers: incredibly brave, facing unbelievable hurdles, but they get through to a peace and a sense of belonging. ‘Watching it, I imagine, will be a sort of therapy, and incredibly cathartic. The audience will have been very intimate with these characters, played by these extraordinary actors, and that’s a bonding experience for everyone. ‘The two plays together last nearly seven hours, so there’s a lot to tell regarding the visuals. It starts with one aesthetic and then transmogrifies into another, and then another. It keeps changing in front of our eyes because the characters keep changing as they journey through it. It’s highly theatrical and highly imaginative, so I’m trying to honour that in the design. ‘We’re very lucky in London with our theatre scene. We have a lot of subsidised venues, which means that the excellence of the art is at the heart of what we do, rather than the commerce. And even women are breaking through now!’ From 11 Apr. National Theatre, South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk

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QUEER BRITISH ART

ALL THE WORLD’S A STAGE Theatre has played a leading role in London’s LGBT+ scene over the decades, and with more than 200 venues boasting a combined seating capacity of over 100,000, it’s fair to say that all the world’s a stage in London. In the West End, you’ll find the biggest concentration and variety, including Kinky Boots, featuring music and lyrics written by Cyndi Lauper. The show tells the true story of a British shoe factory that branched out and made women’s shoes in men’s sizes for transgender people. South of the river there’s the legendary Royal Vauxhall Tavern (372 Kennington Lane, SE11 5HY ), with its regular drag-queen nights, and the world-famous National Theatre on the South Bank, which is staging Angels in America: A Gay Fantasia on National Themes, a play made famous by the 2003 TV series with Al Pacino and Meryl Streep (from 11 Apr). Starring Andrew Garfield and directed by Olivier Awardwinner Marianne Elliott, this new staging of Tony Kushner’s play about 1980s America in the midst of the AIDS crisis and the Reagan years is sold out, but contact the box office for returns and day tickets.

This month, some of London’s leading museums and galleries are exploring themes of gender and sexual identity, including Tate Britain’s hotly anticipated Queer British Art 1861-1967 (from 5 Apr). Featuring works by Francis Bacon, Evelyn De Morgan, Gluck, Glyn Philpot, Dora Carrington and Cecil Beaton, this major exhibition spans the playful to the political, the explicit to the domestic, and includes a full-length portrait of Oscar Wilde (owned by the writer), never before exhibited in the UK. ‘It’s a unique opportunity to see objects that connect to a diverse range of identities with some great stories attached to them,’ says curator Clare Barlow. ‘Where else in London are you going to be able to see a pink wig from a 1920s female impersonation act, racy magazines from the 1950s and the door of Oscar Wilde’s prison cell alongside Aubrey Beardsley drawings?’ While you’re at Tate Britain, be sure to see David Hockney (to 29 May), a major retrospective of the British artist who famously helped normalise gay relationships in the 1960s through his work. Meanwhile, at the Fashion Space Gallery you can explore the many realities of modern trans life in Museum of Transology (to 22 Apr; 20 John Prince’s St, W1G 0BJ ). Inside the gallery you’ll find the largest collection of trans artefacts and photographic portraiture ever to be displayed in

the UK. ‘The objects people have chosen to donate are strikingly intimate, and make a unique contribution to the broader social debates surrounding body politics, gender inequality and the continuing attachment of biological sex to gender despite three waves of feminism,’ says collector and curator EJ Scott. Next month, The British Museum will unveil Desire Love Identity: Exploring LGBTQ Histories (from 1 May), which draws on material from ancient history to the present day, from around the globe.

PUBS AND BARS From traditional British pubs to sprawling megaclubs, this city is famous for its diverse and inclusive LGBT+ nightlife – so don’t feel as though you can’t get in on the fun if you happen to be straight. Situated on Old Compton Street in Soho, the Admiral Duncan is one of the oldest gay pubs in the city, while on nearby Rupert Street, The Yard Bar boasts a beautiful plant-filled courtyard. Freedom Bar on Wardour Street attracts many of the West End’s performers to its dancefloor, and we challenge anyone not to have a good time at legendary Heaven, under the arches close to Charing Cross station. Since the nightclub opened in 1979, anyone who is anyone has performed there, including Kylie Minogue, One Direction, Grace Jones, Cyndi Lauper and Madonna. As the Queen of Pop herself says: ‘Only when you’re dancing will you feel this free…’ Clockwise from top left: The Critics by Henry Scott Tuke; Kinky Boots; silver Hadrian medallion from The British Museum; a My Little Pony toy from the Museum of Transology exhibition

THE CRITICS BY HENRY SCOTT TUKE © WARWICK DISTRICT COUNCIL (LEAMINGTON SPA, UK); KINKY BOOTS © HELEN MAYBANKS; SILVER MEDALLION WITH THE BUST OF HADRIAN © TRUSTEES OF THE BRITISH MUSEUM; MUSEUM OF TRANSOLOGY © KATY DAVIES

WHERE NOW | LGBT+

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It’s playtime! After a successful inaugural year in 2016, the London Games Festival returns, says Emma Levine. Let the games begin! London may be a powerhouse for business and finance and at the forefront in the worlds of fashion, food and architecture, but here’s an event that showcases the city in a whole new light. From a giant Monopoly board to learning about the intricacies of high-tech video gaming, the London Games Festival (to 9 Apr) is a celebration of interactive entertainment. Last year, the inaugural event drew more than 38,000 people to landmark venues to take part in hundreds of games. This year, the organisers are expecting that figure to grow to 50,000 enjoying events at more than 10 venues across the city. The festival is part of a three-year initiative delivered jointly by the city’s industry agency, Film London, and Ukie, the video games trade body. The aim? To make London the games capital of the world. Highlights of the festival include Now Play This at Somerset House (7-9 Apr), which boasts almost 100 games to play – some of which have been created especially for the event. The focus

is on experimental game design, with displays celebrates excellence across the games industry. of some of the UK’s most playful works currently Running alongside the main London Games being developed. Look out for the Board Games Festival is the Festival Fringe. Here, you can and Strange Controllers showcases. enjoy intriguing events and workshops such The UK’s largest-ever Monopoly board is open as local tournaments for Hearthstone video to all at Trafalgar Square (2-3 Apr). games, and a musical inspired by the Here, you can complete a lap of sassy Super Mario characters. the customised giant board Mayor of London Sadiq and buy hotels on Mayfair Khan says: ‘London is with oversized playing a global destination for pieces, while learning culture and creativity, about the history and and the interactive heritage of video games entertainment sector in the UK. Learn from the is playing an increasingly experts, too, where LGF@ important part in this. Above: London Games Festival BFI sessions feature some ‘Games London focuses This image: Alan Zucconi’s DodecaLEDron at of the most inspirational on harnessing the city’s Now Play This games developers, hosted talent, with the ultimate aim by the British Film Institute. of making London the world capital Head to Tobacco Dock for EGX Rezzed for video games. It’s fantastic to see the festival (to 1 Apr), a showcase of upcoming PC and expanding and connecting London-based indie games. You can also celebrate the finest talent with overseas investment partners – even games at the BAFTA Games Awards, where more proof that our city is open for business.’ the British Academy of Film and Television www.games.london

LONDON GAMES FESTIVAL © WWW.LONDON.GOV.UK; ALAN ZUCCONI’S DODECALEDRON AT NOW PLAY THIS © BEN PETER CATCHPOLE

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The treasures that united the kingdom

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings and online discounts. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81

SIGHTSEEING Apsley House Visit the home of the Duke of Wellington to see its grand interiors and fine art. Check for prices and times. www.english-heritage.org.uk/apsley house. 149 Piccadilly, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7NT. T: 020-7499 5676. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Banqueting House This 17th-century building was designed by Inigo Jones for James I, with an exquisite painted ceiling by baroque artist Peter Paul Rubens. Daily 10am-1pm, but check before visiting. Adult £6; child free. www.hrp.org.uk. Whitehall, SW1A 2ER. T: 020-3166 6000. E8. Station: Westminster.

Battersea Park Children’s Zoo Zoo in leafy Battersea Park with keeper experiences, a play area and a petting farm with goats, donkeys, chinchillas and other small animals. Daily 10am4.30pm. Adult £8.95; child £6.95. www.battersea parkzoo.co.uk. Battersea Park, Chelsea Bridge Gate, SW11 4NJ. T: 020-7924 5826. Off map. Station: Battersea Park.

The British Library The world’s largest library with events and displays. From 28 Apr: Russian Revolution: Hope, Tragedy, Myths. A century on from the Russian Revolution, this exhibition shines new light on the world-changing events of the period (p. 36). Library open Mon-Thur 9.30am-8pm; Fri 9.306pm; Sat 9.30am-5pm; Sun and bank holidays 11am-5pm. Exhibition galleries open Mon 9.30am-6pm; Tue-Thur 9.30am-8pm; Fri 9.30am6pm; Sat 9.30am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Admission free; charges for tours, some exhibitions and events. www.bl.uk. 96 Euston Rd, NW1 2DB. T: 0330-333 1144. C7. Station: King’s Cross.

Chiswick House & Gardens Trust See Old Masters on display in this manor, which features neo-Palladian interiors designed by William Kent and architecture inspired by ancient Rome and 16th-century Italy. The 18th-century gardens inspired Blenheim Palace and New York’s Central Park. To 2 Apr: Camellia Show. Admire 33 varieties of camellias. Gardens daily 7am-dusk; house Sun-Wed 10am-5pm; conservatory daily 10am-4pm. House adult £6.70; child £4. www.chgt. org.uk. Chiswick House and Gardens, W4 2RP. T: 020-8995 0508. Off map. Station: Chiswick Park.

Cutty Sark This 19th-century ship is the world’s last surviving tea clipper. Explore interactive displays below deck, one of which allows you to sail your own ship from Australia to the UK – but can you manage it without crashing? 13-14 Apr: Tall Ships Regatta. See a fleet of tall ships. 14 Apr: Sailor’s Ball. Swing dance class. 15 Apr: Beef, Beer and Boats. A unique opportunity to explore Cutty Sark after hours, before making your way down beneath the ship’s hull to a two-course dinner. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £12.15; child £6.30. Joint tickets with Royal Observatory available. www.rmg.co.uk/cuttysark. Cutty Sark, King William Walk, SE10 9HT. T: 0208312 6608. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.

Dennis Severs’ House Since 1979, visitors have been able to explore the home of the late artist Dennis Severs. Ten rooms, from the cellar to the attic, illustrate the life of a family of Huguenot silk weavers from the 17th to 19th century. Silent night tour Mon, Wed & Fri 5pm-9pm. Daytime tour Mon noon-2pm & Sun noon-4pm. Tickets £5-£17.50. www.dennis severshouse.co.uk. 18 Folgate St, E1 6BX. T: 020-7247 4013. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

Dr Johnson’s House Writer Dr Samuel Johnson compiled his first English dictionary, first published in 1755, in this period home, which dates from the 18th century. Mon-Sat 11am-5pm. Adult £6; child £2.50. www.drjohnsonshouse.org. 17 Gough Square, EC4A 3DE. T: 020-7353 3745. D9. Station: Temple/ Chancery Lane.

Eltham Palace & Gardens Experience the decade of decadence as you are transported back to the 1930s. Part showpiece of Art Deco design and part medieval royal palace, make yourself at home as a guest of the Courtauld family. Please check for prices and times. www.english-heritage.org.uk/eltham. Court Yard, SE9 5QE. T: 020-8294 2548. Off map. Station: Eltham.

Fulham Palace This attractive 15th-century Tudor manor house was the summer retreat of the Bishops of London and has served as a bishop’s residence for more than 12 centuries. Now it’s a museum with gardens, a café and art gallery. The Tudor Quadrangle is currently undergoing restoration work. 5, 9, 16, 18 & 23 Apr: Monthly Historical Tours. 6 & 30 Apr: Garden Walk. Tour and talk. 16 Apr: Springtime at the Palace. Enjoy an Easter trail, Georgian chocolate-making workshops and craft activities. 17 Apr: Easter Trail. With chocolate prizes. 20 & 27 Apr: A Guide to Wisteria. A talk by the head gardener. Museum, historic rooms and shop Mon-Thur 12.30pm-3.30pm; Sun noon-4pm. Admission free, charges for special events. www.fulhampalace.org. Bishop’s Avenue, SW6 6EA. T: 020-7736 3233. Off map. Station: Putney Bridge.

Buckingham Palace The London residence and principal workplace of the monarchy has 775 rooms. It’s usually closed to the public (except in summer). www.royal collection.org.uk. The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria/Green Park.

Changing the Guard At 11am every Mon, Wed, Fri and Sun, watch the Changing of the Queen’s Guard on the Palace’s forecourt. There is no ceremony in very wet weather. When the sentries change, trumpeters play. www.royal.gov.uk. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria. London’s oldest botanic garden, located by the River Thames, was founded in 1673 as the Apothecaries’ Garden. Admire 5,000 species of plants. 4 Apr: Chocolate Tuesday. Tastings, a talk and the chance to make your own chocolate. 6 Apr: The Wiggly Wild Show. Meet pygmy hedgehogs, giant African land snails, corn snakes, hermit crabs and more. 6 Apr: Spinsters, Hecklers and Lingerie. Discover the origin of these words and how they relate to the garden. 13 Apr: Lotions and Potions. Can food be a medicine? 29 Apr: Textile Basketry. Create art using rope and threads. Adult £10.50; child £6.95. Mon 11am-5pm garden only; Tue-Fri 11am-6pm garden and shop; Sun 11am-6pm garden, shop and café. www.chelseaphysicgarden.co.uk. 66 Royal Hospital Rd, SW3 4HS. T: 020-7352 5646. Off map. Station: Sloane Square.

Top Pick

Under the sea

Marvel at different species of jellyfish, from the upside-down type that lives on its back to the Pacific sea nettle with its stinging tentacles, at SEA LIFE London Aquarium’s new exhibition, Ocean Invaders: Enter the World of Jellyfish (from 1 Apr; p. 29). Sections include Discover, which demonstrates a jellyfish’s life cycle and survival skills; Understand, where visitors can test the strength of their stings and learn about the world’s most dangerous species; and Wow, the story of the UK’s largest jellyfish invasion. Manager Helen Bull says: ‘By the time you leave, you’ll be a huge fan and a jellyfish-ionado.’

IMAGE COURTESY OF SEA LIFE LONDON AQUARIUM

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SIGHTSEEING Go Ape Battersea Park

Ham House and Gardens

Make like a monkey at this treetop adventure playground, which is suitable for children over six and adults. Daily from 9.30am. Adult £35; child £27-£35. www.goape.co.uk/ battersea-park. Battersea Park, SW11 4NJ. T: 0845643 9236. Off map. Station: Battersea Park.

One of Europe’s greatest 17th-century houses. Its gardens are said to be haunted. 14-16 Apr: Easter Egg Trail. Win a Cadbury Easter bunny, plus art activities and storytelling. Please check for times. Adult £10.80; child £5.40. www.nationaltrust. org.uk. Ham St, Surrey, TW10 7RS. T: 020-8940 1950. Off map. Station: Richmond.

Golden Hinde II A full-size reconstruction of Sir Francis Drake’s 16th-century vessel, in which he circumnavigated the globe. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Guided tour adult £7; child £5. www.golden hinde.com. 1 Pickfords Wharf, Clink St, SE1 9DG. T: 020-7403 0123. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Handel & Hendrix in London The former homes of Anglo-German composer George Frideric Handel and American guitarist Jimi Hendrix. See where Handel lived and composed for 36 years, plus Hendrix’s bedroom restored to how it was in 1968-69. 13 Apr: Beg,

Borrow or Steal. A programme with familiar tunes. 20 Apr: Heritage of an English Harpsichord. Explore

the history and art of English keyboard music. Mon-Sat 11pm-6pm; Sun noon-6pm. Adult £10; child £5. www.handelhouse.org. 25 Brook St, W1K 4HB. T: 020-7495 1685. D6. Station: Bond Street.

HMS Belfast Permanently moored on the River Thames, this ship is Europe’s only surviving World War II cruiser. In service until 1965, it’s now a reminder of Britain’s naval heritage. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £14.50; child £7.25. www.iwm.org.uk. The Queen’s Walk, off Tooley St, SE1 2JH. T: 020-7940 6300. E11. Station: London Bridge.

Houses of Parliament Site of Parliament since 1265 and still a royal palace, the current building includes Big Ben, which was built in the 19th century. Tours every Sat plus 7-13 Apr Tue-Fri. Advance: audio tour adult £18.50, child £7.50 (first child free); guided tour adult £25.50, child £11. On the day: audio tour adult £20.50, child £8.50 (first child free); guided tour adult £28, child £12. Watch debates for free when the Houses are in session. www.parliament.uk/visit. Palace of Westminster, Parliament Square, SW1A 0AA. T: 020-7219 4114. F8. Station: Westminster.

The Jewel Tower Built around 1365 to house Edward III’s treasures, this is one of only two buildings left from the medieval Palace of Westminster after an 1834 fire. Don’t miss the ornate ceiling carvings. Please check for prices and times. www.english-heritage. org.uk. Abingdon St, SW1P 3JX. T: 020-7222 2219. F8. Station: Westminster.

Scandinavian children’s characters the Moomins are dropping by Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew (1-17 Apr; p. 28). Created by Finnish writer and artist Tove Jansson in the 1950s, the Moomins are nature-loving creatures who live in Moominvalley. Plump and friendly, they’re decamping to Kew, where children can meet them at a Moomin den, glimpse them hiding in trees and see them while taking part in an Easter chocolate hunt (16 Apr). At the same time, they can learn about plants and flowers with the loveable Hemulen character in Hemulen’s Herbarium. Meanwhile, a trail leads visitors past an array of fritillaries, camassias and tulips.

THE MOOMINS © RBG KEW

Family fun

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THE MOOMINS © RBG KEW

SIGHTSEEING Keats House This 19th-century home belonged to the Romantic poet John Keats. See his paintings, books, letters and household items, plus the engagement ring he gave to his sweetheart Fanny Brawne. 2 Apr: International Children’s Book Day. Create your own story and listen to children’s classics. 16 Apr: Family Day. Find Easter bunnies around the house. 29 Apr: Guided Walk. Meet outside Hampstead Underground station for a guided tour of the heath, with a talk about Keats. Wed-Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £6.50; child free. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/keatshousehampstead. Keats Grove, NW3 2RR. T: 020-7332 3868. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

The London Dungeon

Coca-Cola London Eye

This uniquely thrilling attraction will whisk you back to the capital’s most perilous past. See, hear, feel and (ahem) smell the chillingly amusing characters of the ‘bad old days’ as they come to life before you. Not for small children or the faint-hearted! 21 Apr: London Dungeon Lates. Live acting, special effects and storytelling combine in an evening for adults only. Joint tickets with Sea Life London Aquarium, Coca-Cola London Aquarium, London Eye, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! available. Please check for times and prices. www.thedungeons.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-423 2240. F8. Station: Waterloo/Embankment.

This London icon is one of the world’s largest observation wheels. Interactive screens in each pod give an insight into the landmarks on view – from the top you can’t miss Big Ben, the Houses of Parliament and the London Aquarium as well as the boats on the river. The Champagne Package lets you enjoy a glass of Pommery Brut Royal while you take in the views. Joint tickets with the London Aquarium, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! available. Daily from 10am, check for closing times. Adult £24.95; child £19.95. www.londoneye.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Kensington Palace This royal residence sits in Kensington Gardens and was Princess Diana’s last home. Diana: Her Fashion Story. Trace the evolution of the Princess’s style, from the demure, romantic outfits of her first public appearances to the glamour, elegance and confidence of her later life. Daily, check for times. Adult £17; child free. www.hrp.org.uk. Kensington Gardens, W8 4PX. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington/Queensway.

Kenwood House & Gardens On the edge of Hampstead Heath, Kenwood house with its landscaped gardens is a hidden gem. Admire Robert Adams’ interiors and an art collection made up of Rembrandt, Vermeer and Gainsborough. 14-17 Apr: Easter Adventure Quest. You’ll be greeted by a character from the past – perhaps a king, a butler or a Roman centurion – who’ll be able to help you crack the clues as you explore Kenwood. There’s a chocolate reward! Free admission. Please check for times. www.english-heritage.org.uk/kenwood. Hampstead Lane, NW3 7JR. T: 020-8348 1286. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

Kew Palace This royal retreat in the grounds of Kew Gardens was home to King George III. Don’t miss the Royal Kitchens and their garden. Admission free with Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew (p. 28) tickets. www.hrp. org.uk. Kew Gardens, Richmond, TW9 3AB. T: 0844482 7777. Off map. Station: Kew Gardens.

KidZania London Parents take a back seat here as children take charge. Three times the size of Trafalgar Square, KidZania has two storeys of everything a child could want including TV and animation studios, a chocolate factory, pit lane and aviation academy – there’s even a tattoo parlour. You’ll leave wondering why there wasn’t a KidZania when you were growing up... which is why it hosts occasional adult nights. Daily from 10am, call for closing times. Adult from £8; child (four-14) from £18. www.london.kid zania.com. Westfield London Shopping Centre, Ariel Way, W12 7GA. T: 0330-131 3333. Off map. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.

The London Bridge Experience & Tombs An exciting history lesson about the past of the 1,700-year-old London Bridge site. Special effects and actors bring this spine-tingling scary attraction to life. Tickets also include the London Tombs, under the bridge, which are in a former plague pit. 13-15 Apr: Leporiphobia. An immersive, psychological experience with scary rabbits. Please check for times and prices. www.thelondonbridgeexperience.com. 2-4 Tooley St, SE1 2SY. T: 020-7403 6333. E10. Station: London Bridge.

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SIGHTSEEING ZSL London Zoo

Madame Tussauds

The Monument

Immerse yourself in the animal kingdom at the world’s oldest scientific zoo, which has more than 750 species. As well as an aquarium, penguin beach and endangered Sumatran tigers, you can explore its unique Land of the Lions exhibition, which features Asiatic lions in surroundings designed to resemble an Indian national park – complete with train tracks and rickshaws. 1-17 Apr: Dear Zoo. Kids are invited to enter the Dear Zoo story and embark on an interactive trail of the zoo, collecting stamps, exploring the storytelling hub and learning about animals. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £29.75; child £22. www.zsl.org. Regent’s Park, NW1 4RY. T: 020-7722 3333. C6. Station: Camden Town.

Celebrated home of life-sized wax figures depicting celebrities from the Queen to Adele. Pose with a legend and visit the terrifying Chamber of Horrors and Scream experiences. Don’t miss the permanent Star Wars exhibition, featuring 11 sets from the film. The Game’s Afoot, an immersive attraction with actors, illusion and sound effects, is a highlight. Joint tickets with the London Aquarium, London Dungeon, London Eye and Shrek’s Adventure! available. Check for opening times. Adult £35; child £30. www.madametussauds.com/london. Marylebone Rd, NW1 5LR. T: 0871-894 3000. C6. Station: Baker Street.

This beautiful stone column standing in the heart of the City was built in 1677 to commemorate the 1666 Great Fire of London. Climb the 311 steps to its observation gallery. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £4.50; child £2.30. Joint tickets with the Tower Bridge Exhibition available. www.themonument. org.uk. Monument St, EC3R 6BD. T: 020-7626 2717. E10. Station: Monument.

The O2 To 3 Sep: Star Wars Identities. As you browse original sketches, models and props from the popular film franchise, you’ll be asked questions about your personality to reveal which Star Wars character you most identify with. Mon-Sat 10am-6pm. Tickets £10£20. www.theo2.co.uk. Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2000. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

Old Royal Naval College This Baroque masterpiece, part of the Maritime Greenwich World Heritage Site, is the home of British naval training, with costumed characters and tours. Don’t miss the magnificent ceiling in the Painted Hall. Check for guided tours. Daily, please check the website for opening times. Admission free. www.ornc.org. King William Walk, SE10 9NN. T: 020-8269 4799. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.

Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park Formerly the site of the London 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games, this park includes an aquatics centre and the ArcelorMittal Orbit observation tower. Check for sporting events. Park open 24 hours daily. Admission free. www.queenelizabetholympicpark.co.uk. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2ST. T: 0800-072 2110. Off map. Station: Stratford.

Ripley’s Believe It or Not! This curiosity-filled museum with more than 700 artefacts is a hit across the globe. Explore six floors of oddities, from a shrunken head to an albino alligator and the world’s tallest man. Daily 10am-midnight. Adult £27.95; child £20.95. www.ripleyslondon.com. 1 Piccadilly Circus, W1J 0DA. T: 020-3238 0022. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew Better known as Kew Gardens, this enormous botanical research centre and World Heritage Site contains plants from across the globe, with Victorian tropical greenhouses and a Chinese pagoda. The Xstrata Treetop Walkway offers great views. Throughout 2017 you can also experience The Hive, an enormous aluminium structure modelled on a beehive surrounded by wildflowers. Buzzing and lights play inside it in response to a real beehive. 1-17 Apr: Moomins at Kew. Meet the Scandinavian cartoon characters all over the garden (p. 26). Daily from 10am, please check for closing times. Adult £15; child £3.50; charges for special exhibitions. www.kew.org. Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 3AB. T: 020-8332 5655. Off map. Station: Kew Gardens.

The Royal Institution of Great Britain Grade I-listed Georgian building housing a museum about the institution’s 15 Nobel Prize-winning scientists. Visit its free Faraday Museum and you can see scientists at work, too. Check the website for its programme of talks. Mon-Fri 9am-6pm. Admission free; charges for talks. www.rigb.org. 21 Albemarle St, W1S 4BS. T: 020-7409 2992. E6. Station: Green Park. 28 W H E R E LO N D O N I A P R I L 2017

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SIGHTSEEING The Royal Mews Built by John Nash in 1825, this beautiful part of Buckingham Palace houses the Queen’s vehicles and horses, including the Diamond Jubilee State Coach. Witness daily life and learn about the mews’ history. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £9.30; child £5.50. www.royalcollection.org.uk. Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 1QH. T: 0303-123 7302. F6. Station: Victoria.

The Royal Observatory The home of Greenwich Mean Time and London’s only planetarium. Learn about time in the Peter Harrison Galleries and watch planetarium shows throughout the day. The Sky Tonight is a daily planetarium show that explores the moon, constellations, planets and deep space objects. To 25 Jun: Insight Astronomy Photographer of the Year. Look at stunning skyscapes. Meridian Line and Observatory daily 10am-5pm. Adult £9.50; child £5. www.rmg.co.uk. Blackheath Avenue, SE10 8XJ. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich/Maze Hill/Cutty Sark.

St Paul’s Cathedral

18 Stafford Terrace

Sir Christopher Wren’s 300-year-old cathedral has stunning mosaics. A highlight of your trip will be climbing up the dome to the Whispering Gallery and a further 271 steps to the Golden Gallery for a classic London panorama. Then head down to the crypt, with its monuments to Wren and Lord Nelson. Don’t miss Oculus: An Eye into St Paul’s, a 270-degree film experience that brings 1,400 years of history to life. Using state-of-the-art projection technology, it gives an excellent overview of the cathedral and its past. Free tours. Mon-Sat 8.30am-4.30pm. Adult £18; child £8. www.stpauls.co.uk. St Paul’s Churchyard, EC4M 8AD. T: 020-7246 8350. D9/10. Station: St Paul’s.

This house gives an insight into the personal lives of the Punch magazine cartoonist Edward Linley Sambourne, his wife Marion, their two children and their live-in servants, who lived here from 1875. One of the highlights of your visit will be the tour led by actors in costume. Along the way you’ll meet Mrs Sambourne, or her parlour maid Mrs Reffell, for a dramatic account based on old diaries. See maids set the table and staff serving afternoon tea. Wed, Sat-Sun 11am-12.15pm & 2pm-5.30pm. Adult from £7; child from £5. www.rbkc.gov.uk. 18 Stafford Terrace, W8 7BH. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

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Shrek’s Adventure! Ride the magical 4D ‘DreamWorks Tours’ bus to step into fairytale-themed shows with actors where you can meet the characters from the much-loved films. Joint tickets with London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Sea Life London Aquarium available. Check for times. Adult £27.50; child £22. www.shreks adventure.com. Riverside Building, County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-221 2837. F8. Station: Waterloo.

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Sea Life London Aquarium

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One of Europe’s largest aquariums with 500 species of global marine life and walk-through tunnels, including a glass walkway. You can also snorkel with sharks (from £80 including admission). From 1 Apr: Ocean Invaders: Enter the World of the Jellyfish. Get up close to a swarm of jellyfish in this great new display and find out all about different species (p. 24). Please check for times and prices. Joint tickets with London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! www.sealife.co.uk/london. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0333-321 2001. F8. Station: Westminster/Waterloo.

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St James’s Palace One of London’s oldest palaces, constructed in the 14th century and home to royalty for three centuries. Palace and house closed to the public. www.royal.gov.uk. Marlborough Rd, SW1A 1BS. E7. Station: St James’s Park.

St Katharine Docks This central London marina dates back to the 11th century and is tucked away by the Tower of London. The vibrant waterside destination is lined with regular markets, shops, galleries such as Artopia and The Alexander Miles Gallery and restaurants including CAU, Tom’s Kitchen, Bravas Tapas and White Mulberries. www.skdocks.co.uk. 50 St Katharine’s Way, E1W 1LA. T: 020-7264 5287. Off map. Station: Tower Hill.

St Martin-in-the-Fields This landmark Palladian church has tours, a brassrubbing centre and live classical music (some free). Holy Communion is given daily, and classical music is performed weekly by candlelight. Please check for opening times. Admission free; brass rubbing from £4.50. www.stmartin-in-the-fields.org. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

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SIGHTSEEING Tower Bridge Exhibition

Tower of London

This breathtaking bridge, designed in 1884, is one of London’s most famous landmarks (not to be confused with its less grand and much older neighbour, London Bridge). Did you know that in 1952, a bus driver had to put his foot down to cross the bridge while it was lifting to open? Learn more and check out its wonderful views from the glass floor on the high walkways. You can also tour the engine rooms with a guide. Joint tickets with The Monument available. Check for bridge opening times – it’s worth fitting your visit around this. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Adult £9; child £3.90. www.towerbridge.org.uk. Tower Bridge Rd, SE1 2UP. T: 020-7403 3761. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

This landmark includes the Bloody Tower, Traitors’ Gate and Jewel House, home of the Crown Jewels. Enjoy free guided tours by ‘Beefeaters’ (Yeoman Warders). Book ahead online to attend the nightly Ceremony of the Keys, which dates back to 1340 (tickets are free). Tue-Sat 9am-5.30pm; Sun-Mon 10am-5.30pm. Please check for prices. www.hrp. org.uk/tower-of-london. Tower Hill, EC3N 4AB. T: 0844-482 7799. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

The Vault This venue used to protect the Queen’s treasures under the old Coutts Bank – and now it’s home to the Gaultier bustier from Madonna’s Blond

Ambition tour. See that and other iconic rock ‘n’ roll memorabilia at Hard Rock Cafe’s revamped museum. Daily 11.30am-10.30pm. Admission free. www.hardrock.com. Hard Rock Cafe London, 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 020-7514 1700. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

The View from The Shard Ascend the tallest building in Western Europe in a high-speed ‘kaleidoscopic’ lift. At 1,017ft, on a clear day you can see as far as Windsor – and if you can’t see four major landmarks you can visit again for free. Pre-book for yoga on Saturdays at 8.30am (£45). It also hosts silent discos every Saturday 10pm. Daily 10am-10pm. Advance adult £25.95, child £19.95; on the day adult £30.95, child £24.95. www.theviewfromtheshard.com. 32 London Bridge St, SE1 9SG. T: 0844-499 7111. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Warner Bros Studio Tour London Explore behind the scenes of the Harry Potter films in The Making of Harry Potter tour and witness sets including the Great Hall, Hagrid’s Hut, Diagon Alley and a recreation of Platform 9¾. A fascinating insight into filmmaking. Please check for times. Adult £39; child £31. Booking essential. www.wbstudiotour.co.uk. Studio Tour Drive, Leavesden, Hertfordshire, WD25 7LS. T: 0845-084 0900. Off map. Station: Euston to Watford Junction, then shuttle bus.

Wellington Arch Climb to the viewing galleries for views of the Royal Parks and Houses of Parliament. Joint tickets available with Apsley House. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £4.70; child £2.80. www.english-heritage. org.uk. Apsley Way, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7JZ. T: 020-7930 2726. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Westminster Abbey Consecrated in 1065, this abbey is the crowning and burial site of most English monarchs. It also houses Poets’ Corner, the burial place of Charles Dickens and other famous writers. 21 Apr: Shakespeare within the Abbey: All Places that the Eye of Heaven Visits. Actor Sir Mark Rylance leads a company of actors from Shakespeare’s Globe theatre in a unique event. 6.30pm. Mon-Sat, please check for opening times. Adult £20; child £9. www.westminster-abbey.org. 20 Dean’s Yard, SW1P 3PA. T: 020-7222 5152. F7. Station: Westminster/St James’s Park.

WWT London Wetland Centre This 104-acre wildlife reserve has the Water’s Edge Café overlooking lakes, ponds and gardens which are home to more than 100 species of rare and wild birds. Otters are fed daily at 11am and 2pm. From 1 Apr: Celebrity Dusty Duck Display. New 6ft-tall sculptures include Steve Backshall’s Explorer Dusty and Joanna Lumley’s Absolutely Fabulous Patsy Dusty. Daily 9.30am-4.30pm. Adult £12.26; child £6.75. www.wwt.org.uk. Queen Elizabeth’s Walk, SW13 9WT. T: 020-8409 4400. Off map. Station: Barnes.

FESTIVALS & EVENTS Canalway Cavalcade 29 Apr-1 May: This waterway festival has taken

place on the Grand Union Canal since 1983 and is organised by volunteers. Boats are decorated with bunting and there are family-friendly activities including boating, Morris dancing, food stalls and a real ale bar (p. 8). Free. www.waterways.org.uk. Little Venice, W2. T: 07979-676461. Off map. Station: Warwick Avenue/Paddington. 30 W H E R E LO N D O N I A P R I L 2017

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SIGHTSEEING

RIVER TRIPS

TOURS & GUIDED WALKS

Circular Cruise Westminster

Big Bus Tours

A hop-on hop-off sightseeing service from Westminster Pier, departing every 40 minutes for Embankment, Festival, Bankside and St Katharine’s Piers (for Tower of London), returning non-stop to Westminster. Each cruise features live audio commentary. To 2 Apr 11am-3pm; from 3 Apr 11am-5pm. Adult single £10, return £14; child single £5, return £7. www.circularcruise.london. Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7936 2033. F8. Station: Westminster.

Big Bus Tours is the largest operator of open-top bus sightseeing tours in the world. Daily sightseeing trips aboard a fleet of open-top buses. Tickets are valid for 24 hours. A one-day orientation tour includes three walking tours. Adult £30; child £12.50. www.bigbustours.com. Various departure points. T: 020-7808 6753. Station: Victoria.

City Cruises Daily guided sightseeing tours on the River Thames between Westminster, Waterloo, Tower and Greenwich piers. River Red Rover is an allday hop-on, hop-off sightseeing service. Thames Circular Cruise is a 50-minute sightseeing service from Tower Pier or Bankside Pier to Westminster and back. London Showboat cabaret cruise departs from Westminster Pier and includes a meal with live music Fri-Sat. Please check the website for times and prices. www.citycruises.com. Westminster Pier, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7740 0400. Station: Departure points vary.

London Duck Tours This is ideal if you’re keen for an amphibious adventure. See some of London’s best-loved sights on land before a thrilling splashdown on the River Thames. Adult £26; child £18. www.london ducktours.co.uk. 55 York Rd, SE1 7NJ. T: 020-7928 3132. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Big Bus Walking Tours Choose from three guided tours: Royal London at 10.20am, Harry Potter at 1.30pm and Haunting Mysteries at 4.30pm. All take 90 minutes to two

hours. £5, or free with a Big Bus Tour. Daily. www.bigbustours.com. Depart from Big Bus stop 10, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 0207808 6753. Station: Charing Cross.

Billingsgate Roman House & Baths Beneath the curious cobbled pathways of the Square Mile lies a rich Roman history that’s survived 2,000 years of building, fires and bombings. Lower Thames Street is home to one of Roman London’s most fascinating remains. The Billingsgate Roman Bathhouse was discovered in 1848, and is now open to the public. Explore this fascinating insight into ancient life in the City on a 45-minute guided tour and discover the remains

THE VIEW YOU’LL NEVER FORGET

London Eye River Cruise Live commentary on a 40-minute sightseeing river cruise. Daily 10.45am-7.45pm. Adult £13.15; child £6.58. Discounted joint tickets with the London Eye available. www.londoneye.com. London Eye Pier, South Bank, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.

MBNA Thames Clippers The fastest and most frequent fleet on the river, with departures from major London piers every 20 minutes. The boats depart from 20 piers across the capital. Oyster cards are valid. Top tip: download its free in:flow app. Using GPS tracking to find out your location, it can provide a real-time audio explanation of the sights you see as you pass them. River Roamer hop on and off adult £16.30; child £8.15. www.thamesclippers.com. Various points along River Thames. T: 020-7001 2200.

Thames River Services This hop-on, hop-off service with live audio commentary departs from Westminster Pier and St Katharine’s every 30 minutes 10am-4pm for Greenwich Piers and the Thames Barrier. Westminster to Greenwich adult single to 3 Apr £12.50, return £16.50; child single £6.25, return £8.25. From 4 Apr please check. There is a 35 per cent online discount Mon-Fri. www.thamesriver services.london. Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7930 4097. F8. Station: Westminster.

Thamesjet Try this 50-minute adrenaline-fuelled experience – the most extreme ride on the river – and you’ll enjoy sightseeing, speed and awesome aquabatics all in one. Departs from Westminster Pier. 11am-6pm. Adult from £39; child from £29. www.thamesjet.com. Various departure points. T: 020-7740 0400.

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SIGHTSEEING of the Roman Bathhouse which lies hidden beneath offices. £8 adult; £6 child. Check for times. www.museumoflondon.org.uk. 101 Lower Thames St, EC3R 6DL. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

Capital Taxi Tours Sit back and relax as a Blue Badge or City of London qualified guide drives you around in a licensed taxi for up to five people. Choose from various London tours by day or night, themed tours (including Doctor Who, Sherlock Holmes and Harry Potter), treasure hunts and trips to Oxford, Cambridge and beyond. Prices vary and are per taxi. www.capitaltaxitours.co.uk. Various departure points. T: 020-8590 3621.

City of London Guided Walks

Golden Tours

Themed walks by knowledgeable guides on everything from Smithfield Market and City gardens to Roman London and the River Thames. Adult free£12.50; child free-£8. www.cityoflondonguides.com. Various departure points.

From day excursions to overnight city breaks, the London experts offer quality tour experiences from London to popular locations such as Bath, Stonehenge, Windsor Castle and Leeds Castle. The company offers an unrivalled range of tours and services. Please check for times and prices. www.goldentours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039. Station: Victoria.

Evan Evans London’s oldest and largest sightseeing company has run city tours and out-of-town excursions since 1930. Visit everywhere from Warwick Castle and Stratford-upon-Avon to Stonehenge and Bath, as well as all the London sights. Please check for times and prices. www.evanevanstours.com. Various departure points. T: 020-7950 1777.

SEE INSIDE THE WORLD FAMOUS ROYAL ALBERT HALL GROUPS 15+ Special rates apply

Golden Tours Open-Top Bus Tours See the sights aboard an open-top bus. Live guided (Essential Tour) or multilingual audio commentary (all routes) tours let you hop-on and hop-off wherever and whenever you want. One-day, 24-hour and 48-hour tickets. Please check for prices. www.goldentours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039.

Jack the Ripper Tours Blue Badge Guide Richard Jones of London Walking Tours devised these popular two-hour walks, offering an intriguing look at the infamous serial killer Jack the Ripper, who terrorised the East End in the late 1800s. Numbers are limited in order to give participants a better experience. Booking essential. Daily 7pm from outside Exit 4 of Aldgate East. £10. www.jack-the-ripper-tour.com. T: 020-8530 8443. Off map. Station: Aldgate East.

London Chocolate Tours Wondering how to celebrate Easter? Sample truffles and ganaches in Mayfair’s finest chocolatiers on this two-hour tour by a former cocoa trader. Along the way you’ll learn how chocolate is made. Booking essential. Sun 12.30pm. £15 for Where London readers (usually £39). Departs from The Ritz London by Green Park. www.tourguides.org.uk. T: 020-8526 7755. E6. Station: Green Park.

The London Helicopter Tour Discover the capital from the unique perspective of a helicopter, with its uninterrupted views. Departing from London’s only heliport, glide above the River Thames, taking in iconic landmarks including the Tower of London, St Paul’s Cathedral and The Shard. Choose from the 12-minute Buzz, 18-minute Sights or 30-minute Max tour – or be brave and treat yourself to an 18-minute ‘open door’ ride (£300 per person). Prices start at £150 per seat for a shared tour. www.thelondon helicopter.com. The POD Building, Bridges Court, SW11 2RE. T: 020-7887 2626. Off map. Station: Clapham Junction.

ROYAL ALBERT HALL

London Horror Tours Be spooked by tales of Jack the Ripper, the Highgate Vampire and Sherlock Holmes on tours run by Dr Jack, an actor, entertainer and former guide and curator of the Sherlock Holmes Experience exhibition. Please call for times and prices. www.londonhorrortours.co.uk. Various departure points. T: 07722-247660.

MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR VISIT End your tour with a luxurious afternoon tea

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London Literary Pub Crawl 6, 8, 15, 22 & 29 Apr: See where the giants of the London literary world ate, drank and worked. This unique tour is artist-led and arranged by the not-for-profit charity The Maverick Theatre Company. Starting in Fitzrovia and ending in Soho, it includes pubs and bars associated with the British Film industry and contemporary writers. Tickets £24. www.londonliterarypubcrawl.com. 12 Fouberts Place, Carnaby St, W1F 7PA. T: 020-8090 5082. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

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SIGHTSEEING London Walks

Walkit

London’s oldest walking tour company offers Enter a starting point and destination on this more than 300 walks. Favourites include the Jack website and it will show you your route on a handy the Ripper Walk (daily 7.30pm & Sat 3pm from map, highlighting the distance, time and how Tower Hill), a Harry Potter tour (Wed & Sat-Sun many calories you’ve burnt. www.walkit.com. 2pm, departure points vary) and a spooky Ghost Wembley Tours Walk (daily 7.30pm, departure points vary). Walks Go behind the scenes at this famous football take two hours and there’s no need to book. stadium and concert venue. The 75-minute tour Adult £10; child free when accompanied by an takes you inside the England dressing rooms and adult. www.walks.com. Departure points vary. � ����������� through the players’ tunnel. Have your photo taken T: 020-7624 3978. ���� �������� � ����� with a replica of the FA Cup. 10am-4pm; check for Original London Sightseeing Walk dates. Adult £17; child £10. www.wembleystadium. Walks depart daily from the Original London com/wembley-tours. Wembley Stadium, HA9 0WS. Visitor Centre and include Changing the Guard � ������� � ���Off �� ��� map. Station: Wembley Park. T: ����� 0800-169 9933. (departing 10.30am), Rock ‘n’ Roll (1pm) and Jack the Ripper (3.30pm from Tower Hill Station). Walking tours are free with Original London Sightseeing Tour. www.theoriginaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

The Original Tour With more than 60 years’ experience, these live and multilingual open-top guided bus tours take you to the city’s best attractions, allowing you to hop on and off at more than 80 stops. Its original 24-hour tour includes three free walking tours and a Thames River cruise pass. Adult £30; child £15. www.theoriginaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, Trafalgar Square, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

OUT OF TOWN Ashmolean Museum of Art and Archaeology Britain’s first public museum dates back to 1683, when the politician Elias Ashmole left his collection of antiquities to the University of Oxford. See archaeological artefacts, pre-Raphaelite paintings, Egyptian mummies and Oliver Cromwell’s death mask. Free admission, charges for special events. To 7 May: Degas to Picasso. Includes works by Degas and Picasso. Tue-Sun 10am-5pm. Free admission, charges for special exhibitions. www.ashmolean.org. Beaumont St, Oxford, OX1 2PH. T: 01865-278 000. Off map. Station: Paddington to Oxford.

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PlanetPass PlanetPass is an app that allows you to book a private guided tour for up to six people at any time or day. Choose from street art, Jack the Ripper, a Borough Market one for foodies and more. From £9 per person. www.planetpass.com. Various meeting points. T: 01865-922 380.

Royal Albert Hall Tours Take a one-hour Grand Tour of this Victorian concert hall. Most days throughout the year; call for times. Adult £13; child £6. www.royalalbert hall.com. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7959 0558. F4. Station: South Kensington.

Royal Opera House One of the world’s leading opera venues and also home to the Royal Ballet company. On the Backstage Tour you can explore behind the scenes for an insight into the venue’s history, where you may also see a production in rehearsal. Most days 10.30am, 12.30pm & 2.30pm, but please check. Adult £12; child £8.50. www.royaloperahouse.org. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

See London by Night Tour Explore the West End and City in the evening for a different view of the capital. Regular departures from outside The Ritz. Tours last 90 minutes. Daily 7.30pm, 8pm, 8.30pm, 9.15pm, 9.45pm & 10.15pm. Adult £18; child £10. www.seelondonbynight.com. 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7183 4744. E6. Station: Green Park.

Shakespeare’s Globe (Tours) This reconstruction of Shakespeare’s original Elizabethan Globe Theatre has one of the city’s only thatched roofs, while the Sam Wanamaker Playhouse is a candle-lit performance space. Theatre tours Mon-Sun 9.30am-5pm. Exhibition Mon-Sun 9am-5pm. Exhibition and Globe theatre tour adult £16; child £9. www.shakespeares globe.com. 21 New Globe Walk, Bankside, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7902 1400. E10. Station: Blackfriars.

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SIGHTSEEING Blenheim Palace

Palace of Holyroodhouse

See three centuries of treasures in this Baroque palace, the birthplace of Winston Churchill. The palace is set in 2,100 acres of ‘Capability’ Brown parkland. To 23 Apr: Exhibition: A Passion for Fashion. Fashion through the ages. Palace daily 10.30am5.30pm; park 9am-6pm; formal gardens daily 10.30am-6pm. Palace, park and gardens adult £24.90, child £13.90; park and gardens adult £15.30, child £7.10. www.blenheimpalace.com. Woodstock, Oxfordshire, OX20 1PP. T: 01993-810530. Off map. Paddington to Oxford, then bus S3.

The Queen’s official residence in Scotland stands at the end of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile, against the spectacular backdrop of Arthur’s Seat. Tour highlights include the state apartments and Mary, Queen of Scots’ chamber. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £12.50; child £7.50. www.royalcollection. org.uk. Canongate, The Royal Mile, Edinburgh, EH8 8DX. T: 0303-123 7306. Off map. Station: Edinburgh Waverley, then a 15-minute walk.

Hampton Court Palace King Henry VIII’s former palace has 60 acres of land. Palace, formal gardens and maze daily 10am-6pm. Adult £23; child £11.50. www.hrp.org.uk. East Molesey, Surrey, KT8 9AU. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Hampton Court.

Leeds Castle Fairytale 900-year-old castle with a moat, gardens and parkland. Castle daily 10.30am-5.30pm; grounds & gardens daily 10am-5pm. Adult £24.50; child £16.50. www.leeds-castle.com. Maidstone, Kent, ME17 1PL. T: 01622-765 400. Off map. Station: Victoria to Bearsted.

Osterley Park and House This country home is decorated as it would have been in the 1780s. Stroll its formal gardens. House & Garden 11am-5pm. Adult £10.90; child £5.45. www.nationaltrust.org.uk. Jersey Rd, Isleworth, Middlesex, TW7 4RB. T: 020-8232 5050. Off map. Station: Osterley/Isleworth.

Stonehenge The world’s most famous stone circle and a World Heritage Site, Stonehenge is more than 5,000 years old. With obscure Neolithic origins, it is perfectly aligned with the rising sun at the solstice. English Heritage members get exclusive early-morning tours. The visitor centre has an exhibition, shop and café. Daily 9.30am-7pm. Please check for prices. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Amesbury, Wiltshire SP4 7DE. T: 0870-333 1181. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Salisbury, then bus or taxi.

Warwick Castle Built by William the Conqueror in 1068, this castle is now a family-friendly experience with landscaped gardens designed by ‘Capability’ Brown. Don’t miss Merlin: The Dragon Tower and displays of medieval weaponry, as well as regular falconry displays. The dungeon, with actors, is a highlight. 7-22 Apr: Little Warrior Breaks. Kids can take part in medieval battles. 8-23 Apr: Easter at Warwick Castle. Inspired by the popular kid’s stories, you can get lost in a Horrible Histories Maze, see Horrible Histories Wicked Warwick live on stage

LONDON’S NO.1 SIGHTSEEING TOUR ON THE THAMES

and watch eagles soar. Please check for times. Castle adult £19.20; child £16.80; castle & dungeon adult £22.80; child £19.20. www.warwick-castle.com. Warwick, Warwickshire, CV34 6AH. Off map. Station: Warwick.

Watts Gallery Artists’ Village An Arts and Crafts gem in the Surrey Hills, with stunning Victorian paintings and sculptures. Visit The Tea Shop, then wander to the Watts Chapel. To 9 Apr: Painted with Stories: The Making of Maiolica. Ceramicist Myra McDonnell displays her work inspired by maiolica, the tin-glazed pottery of the Italian Renaissance. From 12 Apr: Emma Bridgewater: Pomegranates. The ceramics designer and author displays her work. Tue-Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £9.50 (Tues £4.75); child free. Down Lane, Compton, Surrey, GU3 1DQ. T: 01483-810235. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Guildford, then bus or taxi.

Windsor Castle The Queen’s weekend home and the world’s oldest inhabited castle. Includes State Apartments furnished with art by Rembrandt, Rubens and Canaletto. Changing the Guard alternate days 11am Mon-Sat (please check). 1-29 Apr: Fabulous Fashions. Kids can dress up in replica royal clothes, follow an Easter activity trail and take part in an art workshop. Daily 9.30am-5.30pm. Adult £20.50; child £12. www.royalcollection.org.uk. Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 1NJ. T: 0303-123 7304. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Central or Windsor & Eton Riverside.

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London looks amazing, beautifully lit up at night

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES | THE GUIDE

Seeing red The capital’s museums and galleries are marking the centenary of the Russian Revolution with art from the likes of Kazimir Malevich, and a handwritten letter from Lenin to The British Museum, says Sam Rogg ‘Peace, land, bread!’ promised Russia’s revolutionary Bolsheviks in 1917 before overthrowing the government and enabling working people to establish their own system of democratic rule. It was a turning point in world history, followed by similar working-class upheavals in other countries. This year, London marks the 100th anniversary of the Russian Revolution with two major exhibitions featuring artefacts, famous artworks and a letter to London’s British Museum penned by Lenin himself. At The British Library, Russian Revolution: Hope, Tragedy, Myths (from 28 Apr; p. 24) shines a new light on the world-changing events of the era, as seen through the eyes of ordinary Russians. Beginning in the last Tsar’s reign, it explores the transformation of Russia’s traditional monarchy into the world’s first Communist state. Along the way, you’ll get up close to original posters, photographs, banners, weapons, films and recordings taken in the lead-up to the

October Revolution. There’s even a letter written by Lenin in 1902 applying to use The British Museum’s library, signed with his pseudonym, Jacob Richter, which he used in order to evade the Tsarist police of the time. ‘It is a remarkable institution, especially that exceptional reference section,’ Lenin writes of The British Museum’s Reading Room. ‘Ask them any question, and in the very shortest space of time they’ll tell you where to look to find the material that interests you.’ Elsewhere in the exhibition, you’ll find a luxury souvenir album of the Tsar’s coronation, and propaganda wallpaper hand-painted by women factory workers. Over at the Royal Academy of Arts,

meanwhile, you’ll find Revolution: Russian Art 1917-1932 (to 17 Apr; p. 43). This all-encompassing survey of the artistic landscape follows the fateful events of 1917, as Socialist Realism emerged alongside idealistic aspirations. You can enter a full-scale recreation of an apartment designed for communal living and ponder the legacy of propaganda posters in this must-see show of groundbreaking Russian art. Featuring powerful artworks by the likes of Chagall, Brodsky, Kandinsky and Malevich plus photography, sculpture, graphic design and films, this exhibition looks back at a 15-year period in Russia when possibilities seemed limitless and the ‘people’s’ art flourished.

BOLSHEVIK, 1920, BY BORIS MIKAILOVICH KUSTODIEV © STATE TRETYAKOV GALLERY; LENIN LETTER © BRITISH LIBRARY

This image: Bolshevik, 1920, by Boris Mikailovich Kustodiev Below: Letter from Lenin requesting the use of the Reading Room at The British Museum (now The British Library)

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‘Some of the biggest names in American art ... Jasper Johns, Louise Bourgeois, Edward Ruscha, Claes Oldenburg and Robert Rauschenberg’ The Guardian

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings and online discounts. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81

Arsenal Stadium Tours & Museum Football fans can enjoy a self-guided audio tour for a sneak peek inside the players’ changing rooms and tunnel and the Physio Room, or a Legends Tour led by ex-Arsenal players. Self-guided tours MonSat 9.30am-6pm; Sun 10am-4pm; Legends Tour from 11am (check for dates). Museum open Mon-Sat 10.30am-6.30pm; Sun 10.30am-4.30pm; check for match-related closures. Self-guided: adult £20; child £10. Legends: adult from £40; child from £20.75. Museum only: adult £10; child £7. www.arsenal. com/tours. Emirates Stadium, Hornsey Rd, N5 1BU. T: 020-7619 5000. Off map. Station: Arsenal.

Bank of England Museum Explore the story of the Bank of England from its 1694 foundation to the present day, with plenty of activities for kids. 3-13 Apr: Chicks’ Great EGGscape. Kids can follow a trail around the museum and then decorate a mask or finger puppet. Mon-Fri 10am5pm; closed bank holidays. Admission free. www.bank ofengland.co.uk/museum. Threadneedle St, EC2R 8AH. T: 020-7601 5545. D10. Station: Bank.

Benjamin Franklin House This 18th-century townhouse is the last remaining home of the American hero Franklin – it gives a great overview of the diplomat, inventor, founding father and musician. 11 Apr: Family Day: Georgian Easter Celebration. Traditional Easter celebrations. Architectural tours Mon noon, 1pm, 2pm, 3.15pm and 4.15pm; historical shows Wed-Sun noon, 1pm, 2pm, 3.15pm and 4.15pm. Tue advance booking required. Shows adult £8; under 16s free. Mon tours: adult £6; under 16s free. www.benjamin franklinhouse.org. 36 Craven St, WC2N 5NF. T: 020-7925 1405. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

The British Museum

Chelsea FC Stadium Museum & Tours

Unrivalled collection of antiquities, plus a huge number of permanent displays and treasures from the Roman Empire, Ancient Egypt, Medieval Europe, Ancient Iran and India. To 18 Jun: The American Dream: Pop to the Present. Major art exhibition tracing 60 years of a superpower, including works by Andy Warhol. To 27 Aug: Places of the Mind: British Watercolour Landscapes 1850-1950. First exhibition devoted to landscape drawings and watercolours by British artists in the Victorian and modern eras. Sat-Thur 10am5.30pm; Fri 10am-8.30pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.britishmuseum.org. Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8299. D7/8. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Russell Square.

Interactive tour of Stamford Bridge. Tours daily, every 30 minutes 10am-3pm; check for closures and monthly tours with past stars of the game (from £70). Museum open daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £22 (museum only £11); child £15 (£9). www.chelseafc. com/tours. Stamford Bridge, SW6 1HS. T: 0871-984 1955. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.

The Cartoon Museum Museum dedicated to British cartoons, caricature and comic art from the 18th century to today. To 23 Apr: Future Shock! 40 Years of 2000 A.D. Exhibition celebrating the groundbreaking British sci-fi comic which was first published in 1977. From 26 Apr: The Inking Woman. Exhibition of British female cartoon and comic artists. Mon-Sat 10.30am-5.30pm; Sun noon-5.30pm. Adult £7; child free. www.cartoonmuseum.org. 35 Little Russell St, WC1A 2HH. T: 020-7580 8155. D8. Station: Holborn.

Charles Dickens Museum The former home of the Victorian novelist and social campiagner, where he wrote classics including Oliver Twist. Decorated in early Victorian style as it might have been when he lived here, it displays his personal possessions. Dickensian Walks on selected Weds & Suns 11.30am. Tue-Sun 10am-5pm. Adult £9; child £4. www.dickensmuseum.com. 48 Doughty St, WC1N 2LX. T: 020-7405 2127. C8. Station: Russell Square.

Top Pick

Churchill War Rooms Fortified basement where Sir Winston Churchill and his war cabinet worked during World War II. Visit the map room, which has remained exactly as it was left on the day the lights were switched off in 1945. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £17.25; child £8.60; under fives free. www.iwm.org.uk. Clive Steps, King Charles St, SW1A 2AQ. T: 020-7930 6961. F7. Station: Westminster.

Clink Prison Museum A former prison dating back to 1144, the museum houses an exhibition about London’s penal past and instruments of torture. It’s said to be haunted by the ghosts of former occupants. Mon-Fri 10am6pm; Sat-Sun 10am-7.30pm. Adult £7.50; child £5.50. www.clink.co.uk. 1 Clink St, SE1 9DG. T: 020-7403 0900. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Design Museum This is one of the world’s leading museums of design and architecture, and a showcase for the many skills that Britain excels in. Designer Maker User is a free permanent display of the museum’s collection covering a range of disciplines, from architecture and engineering to digital, fashion and graphics. To 23 Apr: Fear and Love: Reactions to a Complex World. Exhibition consisting of a series of major new commissions by some of the most innovative practitioners in design and architecture. Themes include networked sexuality, sentient robots, slow fashion and settled nomads. From 25 Apr: AXA PPP Health Tech & You 2017. Pop-up exhibition promoting health-tech inventors and innovations from across the world. To 4 Jun: Imagine Moscow: Architecture, Propaganda, Revolution. Exhibition exploring six unbuilt architectural landmarks in Moscow from the 1920s and 1930s following the Russian Revolution. Daily 10am-5.45pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.designmuseum.org. 224-238 Kensington High St, W8 6AG. T: 020-3862 5900. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

The Fan Museum Unusual museum dedicated to the art of the fan with examples from the 12th century right up to the present day. To 21 May: Biblical Fans. See more than 80 fans which touch upon significant Bible stories. Tue-Sat 11am-5pm; Sun noon-5pm. Adult £4; child £3; under sevens free. www.thefanmuseum. org.uk. 12 Crooms Hill, SE10 8ER. T: 020-8305 1441. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark.

Cut from a different cloth When English painter Chris Ofili won a scholarship to travel to Zimbabwe in 1992, it changed the way he approached his art. It was there that he began to experiment with unconventional techniques and materials – famously incorporating elephant dung into his works. This month, the Turner Prize-winning artist unveils his first foray into the medium of tapestry in Weaving Magic at The National Gallery (from 26 Apr; p. 42). Here he has translated his favourite subjects – classical mythology, magic and the colours of the Trinidadian landscape – into a hand-woven work, with the help of the internationally renowned Dovecot Tapestry Studio.

Fashion and Textile Museum Contemporary fashion, textiles and jewellery. From 25 Apr: Gudrun Sjödén: Four Decades of Colour & Design. Colourful displays celebrating the Swedish designer and textile artist (p. 40). To 7 May: Josef Frank: Patterns-Furniture-Painting. First UK exhibition of the Austrian-born architect. To 7 May: Full Circle & Recycle – 21st Century Swedish Textiles. See the work of 10 textile designers who represent contemporary Swedish design. Tue-Sat 11am-6pm; Thur until 8pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £9.90; child free. www.ftmlondon.org. 83 Bermondsey St, SE1 3XF. T: 020-7407 8664. F11. Station: London Bridge.

A DETAIL OF THE TAPESTRY BY CHRIS OFILI COURTESY OF THE ARTIST AND VICTORIA MIRO, LONDON © CHRIS OFILI/PHOTOGRAPH BY GAUTIER DEBLONDE

MUSEUMS

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Fall in love with Wimbledon Want to feel the weight of the Championships trophies? Interested in watching an interactive ghost of John McEnroe? Keen to cast your eyes over Andy Murray’s title-winning whites? Then step inside the multi-dimensional journey that is Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum. With complimentary audio guides in 10 languages, learn about the history of the sport, see the Championship trophies, and the amazing new Virtual Reality experience. You may also take the behind the scenes tour of the grounds and explore the home of tennis, including Centre Court, for a truly inspirational visit. Supported by

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T: 020 8946 6131 | wimbledon.com/museum

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Florence Nightingale Museum

The Guards Museum

Household Cavalry Museum

Museum about the work of the 19th-century British nurse and health reformer. It also tells the story of Jamaican-born nurse Mary Seacole. To 30 Apr: The Age of the Beard: Putting on a Brave Face in Victorian Britain. Photos and events dedicated to the great British beard. Daily 10am5pm. Adult £7.50; child £3.80. www.florencenightingale.co.uk. 2 Lambeth Palace Rd, SE1 7EW. T: 020-7620 0374. F8. Station: Waterloo/Westminster.

The history, stories and regimental heritage of the five regiments of the Foot Guards, which today watch over the Royal Palaces. It gives a great insight into the Changing the Guard. Daily 10am-4pm. Adult £6; child free. www.theguardsmuseum.com. Wellington Barracks, Birdcage Walk, SW1E 6HQ. T: 020-7414 3271. D5. Station: St James’s Park/Westminster.

Explore the work of the Queen’s mounted guard, with touchscreen guides and a working stables. Changing the Queen’s Life Guard daily on Horse Guards Parade at 11am & Sun 10am, plus inspection at 4pm. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £7; child £5. www.householdcavalrymuseum.co.uk. Horse Guards, Whitehall, SW1A 2AX. T: 020-7930 3070. E7/8. Station: Westminster/Embankment.

The Foundling Museum Britain’s original home for abandoned children. To 30 Apr: Child’s Play. Major new project by artist Mark Neville exploring childhood play. To 7 May: So That They May Be Useful to Themselves. Explores the hospital’s work with disabled children. Tue-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £8.25; child free. www.foundlingmuseum.org.uk. 40 Brunswick Square, WC1N 1AZ. T: 020-7841 3600. C8. Station: Russell Square.

Geffrye Museum Historic 18th-century almshouses, with rooms recreating English interiors from 1600 to the present day. 1, 5, 11, 19 & 25 Apr: Restored Almshouse Tours. A rare glimpse into the lives of London’s poor and elderly in former times (hourly 11am-3pm). To 4 Jun: Teenage Bedrooms: Like a House Inside of a House. See inside the homes of 26 London teenagers and explore the significance of their bedrooms. Tue-Sun & bank holidays 10am-5pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.geffrye-museum.org.uk. 136 Kingsland Rd, E2 8EA. T: 020-7739 9893. Off map. Station: Hoxton.

Horniman Museum & Gardens Collection based upon that of the adventuring Victorian tea trader Frederick John Horniman. To 23 Apr: Celebrating Ganesha. See a sculpture of the Indian elephant god from The British Museum. To 1 May: Memorial. A Tribute to Taxidermy. Ethical taxidermist Jazmine Miles-Long challenges ideas and perceptions. To 29 Oct: The Robot Zoo. Animals are recreated in robot form to show their inner workings. Daily 10.30am-5.30pm. Admission free; charges for aquarium and special exhibitions. www.horniman.ac.uk. 100 London Rd, SE23 3PQ. T: 020-8699 1872. Off map. Station: Forest Hill.

House of Illustration The UK’s only public gallery that is dedicated solely to illustration was founded by Sir Quentin Blake. To 30 Apr: Linda Kitson: Drawings and Projects. Line drawings by the first female artist commissioned to accompany troops into combat. To 14 May: Jo Brocklehurst: Nobodies and Somebodies. Works capturing late 20th-century subcultures in London, Berlin and New York. Adult £7.50; child £4. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. www.houseofillustration.org.uk. 2 Granary Square, N1C 4BH. T: 020-3696 2020. Off map. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

Top Pick

Imperial War Museum Huge displays of conflicts, particularly those that involve Britain and the Commonwealth. To 28 Aug: People Power: Fighting for Peace. Explore how peace movements have influenced perceptions of war and conflict. To 28 Aug: Edmund Clark: War of Terror. Explore the measures taken by states to protect their citizens and how those methods of control affect the world. To 26 Nov: Afghanistan: Reflections on Helmand. Exhibition examining the British arrival in Helmand province in 2006. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for some special exhibitions. www.iwm.org.uk. Lambeth Rd, SE1 6HZ. T: 020-7416 5000. E5. Station: Lambeth North/Waterloo.

Jewish Museum Documenting Jewish history and culture in the UK from 1066 to today, including a representation of the Jewish East End immigrant quarter. To 4 Jun: Amy Winehouse Street Art Trail and Installation. Amy-themed street art throughout Camden by artists such as Captain Kris, Mr Cenz, Philth and Amara Por Dios. To 24 Sep: Amy Winehouse: A Family Portrait. Discover the woman behind the music in this intimate exhibition about a much loved singer (p. 42). Sat-Thur 10am-5pm; Fri 10am-2pm. Adult £7.50; child £3.50. www.jewishmuseum.org.uk. Raymond Burton House, 129-131 Albert St, NW1 7NB. T: 020-7284 7384. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

Leighton House Museum The restored former home of Frederic, Lord Leighton is a museum of his life and work. Permanent collections include fine paintings, drawings and sculptures. Don’t miss the two-storey Arab Hall built as a showcase for Leighton’s collection of more than 1,000 tiles from the Middle East. WedMon 10am-5.30pm. Adult £12; child free. www.rbkc. gov.uk. 12 Holland Park, W14 8LZ. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: Kensington Olympia. Bond in Motion is the official exhibition of James Bond vehicles that feature in the film series. It is the largest display of its kind staged in London and also features Cars of Spectre, the first UK exhibition of items from the film. Mon-Fri & Sun 10am-6pm; Sat 10am-7pm. Adult £14.50; child £9.50. www.london filmmuseum.com. 45 Wellington St, WC2E 7BN. T: 020-7202 7042. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

London Transport Museum

True colours With its brightly coloured fabrics featuring contemporary Scandinavian patterns, Gudrun Sjödén’s shop in Covent Garden is one of the most cheerful-looking stores in London and a popular spot for gifts. Explore the Swedish designer’s stunning contribution to the fabric world in Gudrun Sjödén: Four Decades of Colour & Design at the Fashion and Textile Museum (from 25 Apr; p. 38), from the label’s inception in 1976 to its current reputation as a pioneer of sustainable fashion. Featuring treasures from the company’s archive, including vintage designs, sketches, early catalogues and videos, this beautiful exhibition offers a rare behind-the-scenes glimpse into the workings of a fashion business.

Explore London’s transport system. Highlights include iconic red buses, the world’s first Underground steam train and the padded cell – a train carriage from the 1890s. Permanent gallery London by Design reveals how London has become a leader in transport design. To 23 Apr: Driverless Futures, Utopia or Dystopia? How autonomous vehicles could present the most significant change in transport since the transition from horse-drawn carriages to motorised vehicles. To 23 Apr: Designology. Explore how design is encountered in our everyday journeys and how this has evolved over the past century. Mon-Thur & Sat-Sun 10am-6pm; Fri 11am-6pm. Adult £17.50; child free. www.ltmuseum.co.uk. Covent Garden Piazza, WC2E 7BB. T: 020-7379 6344. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

GUDRUN SJÖDÉN COURTESY OF FASHION AND TEXTILE MUSEUM

London Film Museum

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Museum of Brands, Packaging & Advertising Fascinating insight into how everyday lives have changed over the past 200 years through the evolution of consumer brands. Exhibits include toys, magazines, newspapers, technology, travel, fashion and design. To 25 Jun: Celebrating Women in Advertising. Talks and events. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £9; child £5. www.museumofbrands.com. 111-117 Lancaster Rd, W11 1QT. T: 020-7243 9611. Off map. Station: Ladbroke Grove.

Museum of London The world’s largest urban history museum, covering London’s history from pre-Roman times to the present day. To 14 Apr: Smithfield Walk. Explore scenes of executions, plague and bodysnatching. To 17 Apr: Fire! Fire! Discover London before, during and after the Great Fire of 1666 in an interactive exhibition marking the 350th anniversary of the disaster. To 8 May: Perspectives of Destruction: Images of London, 1940-1944. Paintings and photographs of the city produced by artists during the 1940 London Blitz. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.museumoflondon.org.uk. 150 London Wall, EC2Y 5HN. T: 020-7001 9844. D10. Station: Barbican.

Queen’s House

Science Museum

This 17th-century house, once home to Charles I’s queen, Henrietta Maria, now displays a stunning fine art collection, including works by Great Masters such as Gainsborough, Hogarth and the van de Veldes. Daily 10am-5pm; closed bank holidays. Admission free. www.rmg.co.uk/queens-house. Queen’s House, Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark.

Enjoy changing exhibitions, an IMAX 3D cinema and more. In Wonderlab: The Statoil Gallery, you can explore the beauty and wonder in science and mathematics. Wounded: Conflict, Casualties and Care. Ongoing display commemorating the centenary of the Battle of the Somme. To 25 Jun: Voyages. Internationally acclaimed photographers Anderson & Low turn their camera on the museum’s collection of maritime models. To 3 Sep: Robots. Explore the 500-year story of humanoid robots. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.sciencemuseum.org.uk. Exhibition Rd, SW7 2DD. T: 0333-241 4000. F4. Station: South Kensington.

Royal Air Force Museum National aviation museum focusing on the Royal Air Force. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free. www.raf museum.org.uk. Grahame Park Way, NW9 5LL. T: 020-8205 2266. Off map. Station: Colindale.

Museum of London Docklands The intriguing history of the meandering River Thames, from its time as a Roman thoroughfare to the regeneration of the Docklands. Displays include London, Sugar & Slavery, charting the history of the transatlantic slave trade and its links to the city. The Many East Ends gallery explores the culture and history of the area through the eyes of its inhabitants. To 4 Jun: The Royal African. Telling the story of the slave trade in the 17th and 18th centuries. To 3 Sep: Tunnel: The Archaeology of Crossrail. The most complete range of archaeological objects unearthed by Crossrail, Europe’s largest infrastructure project. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free, charges for special exhibitions. www.museumoflondon.org.uk/docklands. No 1 Warehouse, West India Quay, E14 4AL. T: 0207001 9844. Off map. Station: Canary Wharf/West India Quay.

GUDRUN SJÖDÉN COURTESY OF FASHION AND TEXTILE MUSEUM

National Maritime Museum Spread over several sites, which were originally part of a 19th-century school for seafarers’ children. Includes the Maritime Galleries, housing Captain Cook’s ship Endeavour, Nelson’s Navy with his Trafalgar uniform, plus The Great Map, a huge interactive world map revealing stories from maritime history. The Sammy Ofer Wing holds special exhibitions. To 17 Apr: Emma Hamilton: Seduction and Celebrity. Discover the woman who captured the heart of Admiral Horatio Nelson, an extraordinary woman in her own right. Mon-Sun 10am-5pm. Admission free; charges for events and exhibitions. www.rmg.co.uk. Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich/Cutty Sark.

Natural History Museum Fascinating exhibits about nature’s many wonders. 7 Apr: Crime Scene Live. Become a crime scene investigator for the night and work with the Natural History Museum’s scientists to solve a murder mystery (£60). To 10 Sep: Wildlife Photographer of the Year. Annual exhibition illustrating the abundance and vulnerability of life on our planet. To 17 Sep: Sensational Butterflies. Visit the tropical butterfly house in the museum grounds and get up close to these incredible creatures. Daily 10am-5.50pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nhm.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 5BD. T: 0207942 5000. F4. Station: South Kensington. www.wheretraveler.com 41

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Museum dedicated to the famous fictional detective and kept exactly as described in the author Sir Arthur Conan Doyle’s thrilling stories. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £15; child £10. www.sherlock-holmes.co.uk. 221b Baker St, NW1 6XE. T: 020-7224 3688. A3. Station: Baker Street.

Sir John Soane’s Museum The architect Soane’s former home is a Regency townhouse left to the nation in 1837 as a public museum. It now houses a gem of a collection including his own architectural drawings, Hogarth paintings and antiquities from around the world. To 23 Sep: Marc Quinn: Drawn from Life. See new sculptures by the leading contemporary artist. Museum tours daily; times vary. Tue-Sat 10am-5pm. Closed bank holidays. Admission free. www.soane.org. 13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields, WC2A 3BP. T: 020-7405 2107. D8. Station: Holborn.

Somerset House This Thameside neo-classical 18th-century building houses the famous Courtauld Gallery, Embankment Galleries, cafés and restaurants. 7-9 Apr: Now Play This. Get hands-on with a variety of experimental games during this three-day event coinciding with the city-wide London Games Festival (p. 22). From 7 Apr: Game Changers. Discover how traditional forms of games such as chess, billiards and mazes continue to influence designers. From 21 Apr: Sony World Photography Awards & Martin Parr – 2017 Exhibition. Photographic stories from key figures and emerging talent. Galleries daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.somersethouse.org.uk. Strand, WC2R 1LA. T: 020-7845 4600. E8. Temple.

Twinings Museum The home of Twinings since 1706, where visitors can get a taste of its 300-year history at the company’s in-store museum. See vintage teapots and caddies alongside nostalgic photographs of the Twining family, plus enjoy tea-tasting sessions. Mon-Fri 9.30am-7.30pm; Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 10.30am-4.30pm. Admission free. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.

V&A Museum of Childhood National collection of childhood objects dating back to the 16th century. To 4 Jun: ABC Photography. The alphabet is reinvented in this display of photographs exploring new notions of the age-old teaching tool for children – the alphabet book. Daily 10am-5.45pm. Admission free. www.museumofchildhood.org.uk. Cambridge Heath Rd, E2 9PA. T: 020-8983 5200. Off map. Station: Bethnal Green.

Victoria and Albert Museum Commonly called the V&A, it houses a collection of fine and applied arts. To 2 Apr: Lockwood Kipling: Arts and Crafts in the Punjab and London. Explore the life, work and lasting impact of John Lockwood Kipling, an artist, teacher, curator and influential figure in the Arts and Crafts movement. Daily 10am-5.45pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.vam.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 2RL. T: 020-7942 2000. F4/5. Station: South Kensington.

Viktor Wynd Museum of Curiosities, Fine Art & Natural History A small shop turned museum and café displaying weird and wonderful things, from fine art to oddities. Expect to see paintings, taxidermy and erotica – some explicit. Wed-Sun 11am-10pm. Admission £5. www.thelasttuesdaysociety.org. 1 Mare St, E8 4RP. T: 020-7998 3617. Off map. Station: Bethnal Green.

The Wallace Collection The former Wallace family home displays its collection of Rococo art. The Great Gallery houses some of the greatest masterpieces of painting, including works by Velázquez and Rubens. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.wallace collection.org. Hertford House, Manchester Square, W1U 3BN. T: 020-7563 9500. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Wellcome Collection Wellcome Trust’s public venue, housing more than 1,500 fascinating artefacts relating to health and the body, including permanent exhibits Medicine Now and Medicine Man, the personal collection of Sir Henry Wellcome. Regular talks and tours. To 21 May: Making Nature: How We See Animals. Examine the historical origins of our ideas about other animals. To 25 Jun: Electricity: The Spark of Life. The natural power of electricity is all around and one of the most potent symbols of the modern world. Tue-Wed & Fri-Sat 10am-6pm; Thur 10am-10pm; Sun 11am-6pm. Admission free. www.wellcome collection.org. 183 Euston Rd, NW1 2BE. T: 020-7611 2222. C7. Station: Euston.

Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum & Tours

The Courtauld Gallery Important European art collection, plus temporary exhibitions, housed in Somerset House. To 29 May: Reading Drawings. Intriguing variety of inscriptions that can be found on drawings, from artists’ signatures to casual notes and records of ownership. To 24 Sep: Bloomsbury Art & Design. A wide-ranging selection of work by the Bloomsbury Group. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £7; child free. www.courtauld.ac.uk. Somerset House, Strand, WC2R 0RN. T: 020-7848 2526. E8. Station: Embankment.

Guildhall Art Gallery Art from 1670 to the present day. At the Heritage Gallery, you can see treasures including William Shakespeare’s First Folio. To 16 Jul: Echoes Across the Century. Explore the personal stories of those who fought in World War I, as well as those who were left behind. Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun noon-4pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk. Guildhall Yard, off Gresham St, EC2V 5AE. T: 020-7332 3700. D10. Station: St Paul’s/Bank.

The National Gallery

The original trophies, art, fashions and donations from the current champions are on display. Audio-guides in 10 languages make this enjoyable for all. Look out for the ‘ghost’ of John McEnroe and the new virtual-reality experience taking you to the heart of the action on Centre Court. Award-winning behind-the-scenes tours of the grounds reveal many of the secrets of the tournament. Daily 10am-5pm. Museum adult £13; child £8. Museum & tour adult £24; child £15. Family offer: one free child for every full price adult. www.wimbledon.com/museum. All England Lawn Tennis Club, Church Rd, SW19 5AE. T: 020-8946 6131. Off map. Station: Southfields then bus 493 or a 12-minute walk.

One of the world’s great galleries, with works by masters from Monet to da Vinci. Regular guided tours, talks and workshops; music from students of Royal College of Music Fris 6pm-7pm. From 26 Apr: Chris Ofili: Weaving Magic. The Turner Prize-winner unveils a new tapestry, handwoven by Dovecot Tapestry Studio (p. 38). To 21 May: Cagnacci’s Repentant Magdalene. Witness Cagnacci’s masterpiece, on view in the UK for the first time in more than 30 years. To 25 Jun: The Credit Suisse Exhibition: Michelangelo & Sebastiano. Discover the extraordinary artistic relationship between two great Renaissance masters. Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nationalgallery.org.uk. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7747 2885. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

GALLERIES

National Portrait Gallery

Barbican Art Gallery Multi-arts venue. To 16 Apr: The Fantastic Barbican World.. Explores Chamberlin, Powell and Bon’s endeavour to combine spaciousness with highdensity development. To 23 Apr: Richard Mosse.. Immersive multi-channel video installation by the Deutsche Börse Photography Prize winner. To 25 Jun: The Japanese House: Architecture and Life after 1945.. The first major UK exhibition to focus on Japanese domestic architecture from the end of World War II to now. Mon-Sat 9am-11pm; Sun noon-11pm; bank holidays noon-11pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.barbican. org.uk. Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 4141. D10. Station: Barbican.

Ben Uri Gallery The London Jewish Museum of Art houses more than 1,000 works. To 18 Jun: Refugees: The Lives of Others. Works by German refugee artists. Mon 1pm-5.30pm; Tue-Fri 10am5.30pm; Sat & Sun 11am-5pm. Admission free. www.benuri.org.uk. 108a Boundary Rd, off Abbey Rd, NW8 0RH. T: 020-7604 3991. Off map. Station: Kilburn High Road.

See Amy Winehouse’s guitar at the Jewish Museum (p. 40)

British history told through portraiture. To 29 May: Gillian Wearing and Claude Cahun: Behind the Mask, Another Mask. Work by both the French Surrealist and the British contemporary artist. To 18 Jun: Howard Hodgkin: Absent Friends. Exhibition of portraits by one of Britain’s leading artists. Sat-Wed 10am-6pm; Thur & Fri 10am-9pm (regular Late Shift special events). Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.npg.org.uk. St Martin’s Place, WC2H 0HE. T: 020-7312 2463. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Newport Street Gallery Damien Hirst’s huge new gallery exhibits work from his extensive art collection. Tue-Sun 10am6pm. Admission free. www.newportstreetgallery.com. Newport St, SE11 6AJ. T: 020-3141 9320. G8. Station: Vauxhall/Lambeth North.

The Photographers’ Gallery London’s largest gallery devoted to photography. To 11 Jun: Roger Mayne. Pioneering photographs of 1950s and 1960s community life in London’s Southam Street. To 11 Jun: Deutsche Börse. Images from the international photography competition. MonWed & Fri-Sat 10am-6pm; Thur 10am-8pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. Admission free before noon, then £4. www.thephotographers gallery.org.uk. 16-18 Ramillies St, W1F 7LW. T: 020-7087 9300. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

GUITAR © JEWISH MUSEUM

Sherlock Holmes Museum

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GUITAR © JEWISH MUSEUM

The Queen’s Gallery Exquisite treasures from the Royal Collection. To 17 Apr: Portrait of the Artist. The first exhibition to focus on images of artists from within the Royal Collection. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Adult £10.30; child £5.30. www.royalcollection.org.uk. Buckingham Palace, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7301. F7. Station: Green Park/Hyde Park Corner.

Royal Academy of Arts Eighteenth-century apartments with Royal Academy Collection works in all media, including architecture. To 17 Apr: Revolution: Russian Art 1917-1932. Powerful exhibition exploring one of the most momentous periods in modern world history through its groundbreaking art (p. 36). To 30 Apr: Anthony Green RA: The Life and Death of Miss Dupont. Recently completed work, shown for the first time. To 4 Jun: America after the Fall: Painting in the 1930s. Forty-five iconic works that paint an electrifying portrait of a transformative period. Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-10pm; check for regular special events and free lunchtime concerts. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.royalacademy.org.uk. 6 Burlington Gardens, Piccadilly, W1J 0BD. T: 020-7300 8000. E7. Station: Green Park/Piccadilly Circus.

Saatchi Gallery Groundbreaking contemporary art in a huge renovated Georgian building, covering 70,000 sq ft. To 14 May: Salon 001: Tsuyoshi Maekawa. Avant-garde works for this inaugural presentation at the gallery’s new project space. The exhibition will include a selection of paintings from the 1950s and 1960s. To 30 May: From Selfie to Self-Expression. Exploring the history of the selfie from the Old Masters to today. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.saatchi-gallery. co.uk. Duke of York’s HQ, King’s Rd, SW3 4RY. T: 020-7811 3070. G5. Station: Sloane Square.

Serpentine Gallery A respected arts space in Kensington Gardens displaying modern and contemporary work. To 21 May: A World View: John Latham. Sculpture, installation, painting, film, land art, engineering, found-object assemblage, performance and the artist’s theoretical writings. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Admission free. www.serpentinegalleries.org. Kensington Gardens, W2 3XA. T: 020-7402 6075. E4. Station: South Kensington.

Tate Britain Traditional and contemporary British art. From 5 Apr: Queer British Art 1861-1967. Major show marking the 50th anniversary of the decriminalisation of male homosexuality in England (p. 16). To 29 May: David Hockney. One of the most popular and influential British artists of the 20th-century returns to Tate Britain (p. 16). Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8888. G8. Station: Pimlico.

Tate Modern International modern art in the transformed Bankside Power Station, plus regular performances. To 2 Apr: BMW Tate Live Exhibition: Ten Days Six Nights. Performance, film, music and dance. To 7 May: The Radical Eye: Modernist Photography from the Sir Elton John Collection. See one of the world’s greatest private collections of photography. To 11 Jun: Wolfgang Tillmans. Works by the groundbreaking artist. Sun-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri & Sat 10am-10pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Bankside, SE1 9TG. T: 020-7887 8888. E9. Station: Southwark.

Explore London’s history. Discover the story of the capital from prehistoric times to the present day through eight world-class galleries. FREE ENTRY museumoflondon.org.uk 020 7001 9844 150 London Wall, London EC2Y 5HN Barbican, St Paul’s, Moorgate

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ENTERTAINMENT | THE GUIDE

Holding court

The director’s cut Sam Mendes – who is best known for his work on the James Bond films Spectre and Skyfall and the Oscar-winning drama American Beauty – is turning his attention to a new play. Mendes started his career in the theatre, and by the age of 25 he was the artistic director of the Donmar Warehouse in Covent Garden, directing a series of classic revivals including Cabaret and The Glass Menagerie. His last show in the West End was Charlie and the Chocolate Factory, and he now returns with The Ferryman at the Royal Court Theatre (from 24 Apr). Written by Jez Butterworth, who worked with Mendes on the scripts for Spectre and Skyfall, the play is set to repeat the success of Butterworth’s acclaimed play Jerusalem. Sonia Friedman, who brought the hit Harry Potter and the Cursed Child to the West End stage, has co-produced the show. She is so confident of The Ferryman’s success that she is transferring it to the Gielgud Theatre this summer (from 20 Jun).

Set in 1981 in rural Derry in Northern Ireland, The Troubles form a backdrop to the story, which follows the Carneys as they busily prepare for an annual harvest and family reunion at their farmhouse. After a hard day of farming, multiple generations are gathered to prepare for a traditional night of feasting and celebrations – just as an unexpected guest from the family’s past arrives. The 23-strong cast is led by Paddy Considine (The Bourne Ultimatum ), Genevieve O’Reilly (from the Star Wars franchise) and Laura Donnelly, who worked with Butterworth on his last play, The River, also at the Royal Court. The Ferryman is the fastest-selling play in the history of the Royal Court, so it’s already sold out. You may, however, still be able to bag return tickets on the day – and it’s worth doing so if you can before it begins its West End run. But if you miss your chance to see the show now or in the summer, rumour has it that the play will then transfer to Broadway. Sloane Square, SW1W 8AS. T: 020-7565 5000. www.royalcourttheatre.com

ANATOMY OF A SUICIDE Artistic director of the Royal Court theatre, Vicky Featherstone (above), is particularly excited to be staging this play by Alice Birch. ‘It challenges our notions of what it means to be a woman,’ she says (from 3 Jun).

KILLOLOGY Killology , written by Gary Owen, tells the story of a controversial gaming experience where you are rewarded for torturing victims (25 May-24 Jun).

NUCLEAR WAR Simon Stephens – famous for adapting The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night-time – usually shows his work in the Royal Court’s main space. Nuclear War, however, comes to the more intimate Jerwood Theatre – it’s a play about death and desire (from 19 Apr).

ROYAL COURT AND VICKY FEATHERSTONE IMAGE COURTESY OF THE ROYAL COURT

The Ferryman, directed by Oscar-winner Sam Mendes, is the fastest-selling show at the Royal Court theatre. Sarah Riches finds out how to get tickets

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81. Check for complete listings. TKTS booth has discounted tickets for West End shows (Leicester Square Gardens, WC2H 0AP)

MUSICALS & PERFORMANCES Aladdin This Broadway and West End hit has a stellar cast led by director and choreographer Casey Nicholaw (The Book of Mormon). Expect tunes such as A Whole New World and Friend Like Me with lyrics by Tim Rice and a real magic carpet. Just how do they do that? Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £48£150. www.aladdinthemusical.co.uk. Prince Edward Theatre, Old Compton St, W1D 4HS. T: 0844-482 5151. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Alice’s Adventures Underground From 15 Apr: Following a limited run in 2015, the immersive show based on Lewis Carroll’s children’s classic was nominated for an Olivier Award – and it’s returning to The Vaults beneath Waterloo Station (below). Check for times and prices. www.alice-underground.com. The Vaults, Leake St, SE1 7NN. T: 0844-248 1125. F8. Station: Waterloo.

An American in Paris Originally a jazz number written in 1928 by the American composer George Gershwin and then an Oscar-winning film of the same name in 1951, this musical follows an American World War II veteran who falls for a woman in a bar in 1940s Paris. But will she marry him, or his friend? MonSat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2pm. Tickets £17.50-£115. www.anamericaninparisthemusical.co.uk. Dominion Theatre, 268-269 Tottenham Court Rd, W1T 7AQ. T: 0845-200 7982. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Dreamgirls

Kinky Boots

Glee TV star Amber Riley plays Effie White in this musical about the tumultuous journey of a young female singing trio from Chicago. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £20-£145. www.savoy theatre.org. Savoy Theatre, Strand, WC2R 0ET. T: 0844-871 7687. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Fun musical based on a true story about a shoe factory which reinvigorates its business after its new owner decides to produce knee-high boots for drag queens (p. 16). With music by Cyndi Lauper. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £22.50-£125. www.kinkybootsthemusical. co.uk. Adelphi Theatre, 409-412 Strand, WC2R 0NS. T: 0844-579 0094. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Footloose: The Musical 21-22 Apr: Based on the 1984 film, Footloose follows

Les Misérables city boy Ren (Gareth Gates from Les Misérables and The world’s longest-running musical, adapted Legally Blonde) as he moves to a town where from Victor Hugo’s classic novel, is set in dancing is banned. Lo and behold, he post-revolutionary France. Mon-Sat gets the whole town dancing to Holding 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets Out for a Hero, Let’s Hear It for the Boy and £27.90-£139.40. www.lesmis.com. Footloose (p. 48). 7.30pm. Tickets £15Queen’s Theatre, 51 Shaftesbury £53.90. www.atgtickets.com. New The Phantom of the Avenue, W1D 6BA. T: 0844-482 Wimbledon Theatre, 93 Broadway, Opera’s make-up takes 5160. D8. Station: Leicester Square/ SW19 1QG. T: 0844-871 7646. two hours to apply and Piccadilly Circus. Off map. Station: Wimbledon. 30 minutes

42nd Street

to remove

Romantic comedy following an authoritarian director as he stages a musical extravaganza during the Great Depression. Clare Halse (Gypsy) stars as a small-town girl stuck in a chorus line on Broadway’s newest show. But when the leading lady (Sheena Easton) gets injured, Peggy has a shot at stardom. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £25-£125. www.42ndstreetmusical.co.uk. Theatre Royal Drury Lane, Catherine St, WC2B 5JF. T: 0844-858 8877. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

The Girls

Disney’s The Lion King

Wonderful adaptation of the popular Disney film with ingenious costumes and inventive puppetry. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Wed, Sat & Sun 2.30pm. Tickets £42.50-£127.70. www.thelionking.co.uk. Lyceum Theatre, 21 Wellington St, WC2E 7RQ. T: 0844-871 3000. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Mamma Mia! A tribute to the popular music of ABBA, with a feelgood story set on a Greek island. Mon-Sat 7.45pm; Thur & Sat 3pm. Tickets £15-£72.50. www.mammamia.com. Novello, Aldwych, WC2B 4LD. T: 0844-482 5115. E8. Station: Covent Garden/Temple.

Musical about the early life and career of the award-winning singer-songwriter. Mon & Wed-Sat 7.30pm; Tue, Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£72.50. www.beautifulmusical.co.uk. Aldwych Theatre, 49 Aldwych, WC2B 4DF. T: 0845-200 7981. E8. Station: Covent Garden/Holborn/Charing Cross.

Take That superstar Gary Barlow has teamed up with his friend Tim Firth – the writer of the film Calendar Girls – to create this musical, which, like the film, is inspired by a true story. It follows a group of Yorkshire women who bare all for a charity calendar. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £29.50-£69.50. www.phoenixtheatrelondon.co.uk. Phoenix Theatre, 110 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0JP. T: 0843-316 1082. E7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Fantastic show based on Roald Dahl’s children’s book about a girl with magic powers. Tue 7pm; Wed-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm. Tickets £25-£122.50. www.matildathemusical.com. Cambridge Theatre, 32-34 Earlham St, WC2 9HU. T: 0844-412 4652. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

The Book of Mormon

Half a Sixpence

Motown the Musical

Beautiful – The Carole King Musical

This controversial satire follows the exploits of two hapless missionaries from the Church of Latter Day Saints. Winner of four Olivier Awards. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £37.25-£202.25. www.bookofmormonlondon.com. Prince of Wales Theatre, Coventry St, W1D 6AS. T: 0844-482 5110. E7. Station: Leicester Square/Piccadilly Circus.

Cameron Mackintosh’s musical theatre version of HG Wells’s novel, Kipps: The Story of a Simple Soul, follows an orphan who inherits a fortune. Mon-Tue & Thur-Sat 7.30pm; Wed, Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £49.75-£127.25. www.halfasixpence.co.uk. Noël Coward Theatre St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4AU. T: 0844-482 5140. E8. Station: Leicester Square.

Matilda the Musical

Feel-good musical based on the story of Motown Records, which launched the careers of Michael Jackson and Marvin Gaye. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £19.50-£175. www.shaftesbury theatre.com. Shaftesbury Theatre, 210 Shaftesbury Avenue, WC2H 8DP. T: 020-7379 5399. D8. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Holborn.

Down the rabbit hole If you’ve ever wanted to go to the Mad Hatter’s tea party, you’re in luck as Alice’s Adventures Underground comes to The Vaults beneath Waterloo Station (from 15 Apr). Following a limited run in 2015, the immersive show based on Lewis Carroll’s children’s classic was nominated for an Olivier Award. Oliver Lansley from the theatre company Les Enfants Terribles says: ‘Alice 2.0 is bigger, bolder and more ambitious – we have new characters, effects and huge set pieces.’ Search for Alice amid a room of mirrors, a wall of painted roses and a Mad Hatter’s tea party with ‘Eat Me’ sweets, while you meet a caterpillar and a creepy life-size rabbit along the way.

Long-running Gothic drama in which a mysterious masked man haunts the Paris Opera House. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £24.80-£128.50. www.thephantomoftheopera.com. Her Majesty’s Theatre, 57 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QL. T: 0844-412 2707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

School of Rock: The Musical Andrew Lloyd Webber’s latest musical was a hit on Broadway and is a smash here, too. Mon, Wed-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm. Tickets £15-£129.50. www.schoolofrockthemusical.com. New London Theatre, 166 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PF. T: 020-7452 3000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Stepping Out Funny and heart-warming musical following a group of novice dancers entering a charity gala. Check for times. Tickets £24-£102. www.vaudevilletheatre.co.uk. Vaudeville Theatre, 404 Strand, WC2R 0NH. T: 0330-333 4814. E8. Station: Charing Cross/Covent Garden.

ALICE’S ADVENTURES UNDERGROUND © JASON JOYCE

The Phantom of the Opera

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ENTERTAINMENT Stomp An award-winning fusion of theatre, dance, comedy and rhythmic percussion. Mon & Thur-Sat 8pm; Thur & Sat-Sun 3pm; Sun 6pm; occasional Weds. Tickets £26-£57.50. www.stomplondon.co.uk. Ambassadors Theatre, West St, WC2H 9ND. T: 020-7395 5405. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

Thriller Live Non-stop songs and dance celebrate Michael Jackson’s career. Tue-Fri 7.30pm; Sat 4pm & 8pm; Sun 3.30pm & 7.30pm. Tickets £32-£90.50. www.thriller live.com. Lyric, 29 Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 7ES. T: 0844-482 9674. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Wedding Reception Enjoy a three-course dinner while watching a hilarious improvised show about a wedding. Check for dates. 7.30pm-10pm. Tickets £38-£43. www.interactivetheatre.com.au. Kingsway Hall Hotel, 66 Great Queen St, WC2B 5BX. T: 0845-154 4145. D8. Station: Holborn.

Wicked the Musical The brilliant back story of the witches of Oz with the hit tunes Popular and Defying Gravity. MonSat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £19.50£125. www.wickedthemusical.co.uk. Apollo Victoria Theatre, 17 Wilton Rd, SW1V 1LG. T: 0844-871 3001. F7. Station: Victoria.

PLAYS The Comedy about a Bank Robbery A hilarious play about six incompetent crooks desperate to get hold of a diamond, from the team behind The Play That Goes Wrong. Tue-Fri 7.30pm; Sat 2.30pm & 7.30pm; Sun 3pm & 7pm. Tickets £20-£49.50. www.thecomedyaboutabankrobbery.com. The Criterion Theatre, 218-223 Piccadilly, W1V 9LB. T: 0844-815 6131. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night-Time

The Goat, or Who is Sylvia?

Adaptation of Mark Haddon’s novel about a boy with Asperger’s syndrome who uncovers more than expected when investigating a local mystery. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £18£92.50. www.curiousonstage.com. Gielgud Theatre, Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 6AR. T: 0844-482 5130. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Leicester Square.

Don Juan in Soho

A middle-aged man confides in his friend that he has fallen in love with a goat. This dark comedy explores the limits a liberal society can be pushed to. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Sat 3pm; Thur 3pm from 13 Apr. Tickets £15-£95. www.trh.co.uk. Theatre Royal Haymarket, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HT. T: 0207930 8800. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Miser

Fast-moving and farcical, this comedy was written by David Tennant stars in this West End premiere the French playwright Molière and first performed in of the funny and filthy play written and directed 1668 in Paris. This new adaptation sees Griff Rhys by Patrick Marber. Loosely based on Molière’s Jones take the lead role as a stingy widower tragicomedy Don Juan, this update who is more concerned with money than transports the action to contemporary he is with his children. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; London. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £29.25Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £10-£75. £99.50. www.garricktheatre.org. www.delfontmackintosh.co.uk. Garrick Theatre, 2 Charing Cross Stomp has used over Wyndham’s Theatre, Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0HH. T: 0844-482 9673. 30,000 brooms, 20,000 Rd, WC2H 0DA. T: 0844-482 5120. E7/8. Station: Leicester Square. bins, 10,000 drumsticks E7. Station: Leicester Square. and 50,000 boxes

Faulty Towers: The Dining Experience

of matches

Seventies-style dining and interactive comedy combine in this theatrical experience based on the cult TV comedy. Thur-Sat 7pm; Sat 1pm; Sun 1pm & 6pm. Tickets £59-£69. www.faultytowers-uk.com. The Torquay Suite Theatre, Amba Hotel Charing Cross, Strand, WC2N 5HX. T: 0845-154 4145. E8. Station: Charing Cross. Kingsway Hall Hotel, 66 Great Queen St, WC2B 5BX. D8. Station: Holborn.

The Glass Menagerie To 29 Apr: Tennessee Williams’ classic about a family struggling to survive. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £19-£105. www.dukeof yorkstheatre.co.uk. Duke of York’s Theatre, 104 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4BG. T: 0844-871 7627. E8. Station: Leicester Square.

Top Pick

The Mousetrap

A murderer strikes at a party in Agatha Christie’s long-running whodunnit – it’s now in its 64th year. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Tue 3pm; Sat 4pm. Tickets £17.50-£67.50. www.the-mouse trap.co.uk. St Martin’s Theatre, West St, WC2H 9NZ. T: 0844-499 1515. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

Othello To 22 Apr: The theme of jealousy runs through Shakespeare’s tragedy about a man envious of his commander’s success and power. The play sees Othello turn against his loving partner, Desdemona, after his spiteful colleague Iago manipulates him. Please check for times. Tickets £10-£62. Sam Wanamaker Theatre, Shakespeare’s Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919. E10. Station: Blackfriars.

The Play That Goes Wrong Slapstick comedy about a drama society staging a murder mystery. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm & 7pm. Tickets £22-£67.50. www.theplaythatgoes wrong.com. Duchess Theatre, 3-5 Catherine St, WC2B 5LA. T: 0844-482 9672. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

The Resistible Rise of Arturo Ui From 20 Apr: Chicago! A city of jazz and gangsters, prohibition and poverty. Among the murk of the Great Depression, there’s room for crook Arturo Ui (Lenry Henry) to make a name for himself. Based on a 1941 play by the German playwright Bertolt Brecht, it’s a satirical allegory of the rise of Hitler and the Nazi Party. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £10-£40. www.donmarwarehouse.com. Donmar Warehouse, 41 Earlham St, WC2H 9LX. T: 0844-871 7624. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Rosencrantz & Guildenstern are Dead

The plot may not be the strongest, but with the magic formula of a brilliant soundtrack, fast beats and even faster moves, who cares? Following its 2016 tour, Footloose: The Musical is back (p. 46), directed by Racky Plews (American Idiot ). Catch it at New Wimbledon Theatre (21-22 Apr) before it goes on tour via Richmond Theatre (15-20 May) and Peacock Theatre (12-30 Sep). Based on the 1984 film, Footloose follows city boy Ren as he moves to a town where dancing is banned. Lo and behold, he gets the whole town dancing to Holding Out for a Hero and Let’s Hear It for the Boy. The tour stars Gareth Gates and Maureen Nolan, who says: ‘Footloose is packed with 80s hits, but I also sing the beautiful song Can You Find It in Your Heart, which wasn’t in the film. Playing Vi is great as she brings an emotional weight to the show.’

Travesties To 29 Apr: Following a sell-out run at the Menier Chocolate Factory, Tom Stoppard’s war-time comedy has transferred to the West End. It follows a diplomat living in Zurich during World War I. This revival is the first in more than 20 years. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £25£99.50. www.apollotheatrelondon.co.uk. Apollo Theatre, 31 Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 7ES. T: 0330333 4809. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

FOOTLOOSE © MATT MARTIN

Footloose and fancy free

To 29 Apr: Daniel Radcliffe stars as Rosencrantz in Tom Stoppard’s comical play (p. 12), 50 years after it premiered at The Old Vic. MonSat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £12-£65. www.oldvictheatre.com. The Old Vic, The Cut, SE1 8NB. T: 0844-871 7628. F9. Station: Waterloo.

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DAY SEATS AVAILABLE £20 DAY SEATS AVAILABLE FROM 10AM AT THE BOX OFFICE

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ENTERTAINMENT The Treatment From 24 Apr: New York. A film studio.

A young woman has an urgent story to tell. But here, people are products, movies are money and sex sells. And the rights to your life can be a dangerous commodity to exploit. Chilling contemporary satire directed by Lyndsey Turner. Please check for dates and times. Tickets £10-£39.50. www.almeida.co.uk. Almeida Theatre, Almeida St, N1 1TA. T: 020-7359 4404. Off map. Station: Highbury & Islington.

Ugly Lies the Bone This European premiere is a funny and poignant play about the trauma of fighting on the frontline in Afghanistan. It is directed by Indhu Rubasingham, the artistic director of north London’s Tricycle Theatre, and written by Lindsey Ferrentino. Experimenting with a pioneering virtual-reality therapy, a female soldier builds a new world where she can escape her pain. Check for times. Tickets £15-£50. www.national theatre.org.uk. Lyttelton Theatre, National Theatre, South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.

Whisper House From 6 Apr: An eerie lighthouse stands on the remote East Coast of America at the height of World War II. When Christopher’s father’s plane is shot down, he is sent to live there with an aunt he has never met and her mysterious Japanese housekeeper. Soon he begins to hear strange music seeping through the walls. Is his imagination getting the better of him, or are the ghosts warning him of real danger? Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£39.50. www.theotherpalace. co.uk. The Other Palace, 12 Palace St, SW1E 5JA. T: 0844-264 2140. F7. Station: Victoria.

The White Devil To 16 Apr: In Annie Ryan’s dystopian reimagining of John Webster’s Jacobean tale, the flickering shadows of the candlelit playhouse reveal a nightmarish world of deceit and madness, where lust and desire breed murder. Cloaked in the half-light of the Italian court, the Duke of Brachiano murders his wife in order to possess another woman, triggering a cycle of brutality, deceit and insanity that shatters family bonds and moral codes. Check for times. Tickets £10-£62. www.shakespeares globe.com. Sam Wanamaker Theatre, Shakespeare’s Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919. E10. Station: Blackfriars.

Who’s Afraid of Virginia Woolf? Martha, much to her husband George’s displeasure, has invited new professor Nick and his wife Honey to their home on an American college campus for some after-party drinks. As the alcohol flows, the couple are drawn into George and Martha’s toxic games until the evening reaches its climax in a moment of devastating truth-telling. Starring Olivier Award-winners Imelda Staunton (Gypsy) and Conleth Hill (p. 12). Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£90. www.whosafraid ofvirginiawoolf.co.uk. Harold Pinter Theatre, Panton St, SW1Y 4DN. T: 0844-871 7622. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Woman in Black A spooky story adapted from Susan Hill’s novel, about a lawyer who visits a remote house to settle affairs after a woman’s death. Prepare to be scared! Tue-Sat 8pm; Tue & Thur 3pm; Sat 4pm. Tickets £19.50-£49.50. www.thewomaninblack.com. Fortune Theatre, Russell St, WC2B 5HH. T: 0844-871 7626. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

FESTIVALS & EVENTS Feast of St George 22 Apr: Celebrate England’s national day with free live music, chef demonstrations, food stalls and children’s games. Noon-6pm. www.visitlondon.com. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

London Games Festival To 9 Apr: Back for a second year, London goes

gaming crazy at various venues, including Somerset House. Last year’s inaugural festival was made up of 30 different events across 20 venues, culminating in a games-themed street art commission across multiple London landmarks, from a pub in Walthamstow to the Leicester Square cinema district (p. 22). www.games.london.

Summer of Love From 22 Apr: A series of love-themed performances

to celebrate half a century since the iconic Summer of Love in 1967. The season kicks off with the greatest romance of them all, the Bard’s Romeo and Juliet (below). Please check for times. Tickets £5-£45. www.shakespearesglobe.com. Shakespeare’s Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919. E10. Station: Blackfriars.

Udderbelly Festival London’s favourite inflatable, upside-down purple cow is set to return to the South Bank for another season of entertainment. Udderbelly by Jubilee Gardens is a 400-seat temporary venue with a lively programme of cabaret, circus, comedy and music for all ages, plus food and bars. Check for times and prices. www.udderbelly.co.uk. Belvedere Rd Coach Park, SE1 8XX. T: 020-7928 3232. E8. Station: Waterloo.

Vaisakhi Festival 29 Apr: One of the most important events in the Sikh calendar. Celebrate Vaisakhi with free live performances and spiritual music (kirtan), works by Sikh artists and traditional food. Meanwhile, you can mingle with community groups and learn how to tie a turban. Noon-6pm. www.visitlondon.com. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

OPERA Barbican 22 Apr: Met Opera Live in HD: Eugene Onegin (Tchaikovsky). Anna Netrebko reprises one of her most acclaimed roles as Tatiana, the heroine of Tchaikovsky’s opera, adapted from Pushkin’s classic novel. 5.55pm. Tickets £15-£37. www.barbican. org.uk. Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 8891. C10. Station: Barbican.

Feel the love Get into the mood of 1967 at Shakespeare’s Globe, which is set to have a series of love-themed performances to celebrate half a century since the iconic Summer of Love (from 22 Apr). The season starts with the greatest romance of all, the Bard’s Romeo and Juliet, where the young couple realise with despair that true love is anything but a smooth journey, especially when your respective families are bitter enemies. It’s directed by Daniel Kramer, the renowned artistic director of the English National Opera, so prepare for a dramatic, heart-rending performance. Look out for more romantic plays in the following weeks, including Nell Gwynn and Twelfth Night.

Home to the English National Opera. Productions are sung in English. www.eno.org. 33 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4ES. T: 020-7845 9300. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Royal Opera House To 25 Apr: Madama Butterfly. Antonio Pappano and Renato Balsadonna conduct two casts led by Ermonela Jaho and Ana Marnez in Puccini’s poignant opera. From 24 Apr: The Exterminating Angel. Thomas Adès conducts a huge ensemble cast of singers in the UK premiere of his latest opera, inspired by Luis Buñuel’s iconic film. Check for times and prices. www.roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

SHAKESPEARE’S GLOBE © HELENA MISCIOSCIA

London Coliseum

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ENTERTAINMENT

DANCE Royal Opera House The Royal Ballet Company’s home base. From 28 Apr: Mayerling. Kenneth MacMillan’s

masterful ballet is a tale of extreme passion and desperate acts, inspired by true events. Check for times and prices. www.roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Sadler’s Wells 3-18 Apr: New Adventures. Matthew Bourne returns for his company’s 30th anniversary, featuring a programme of fun and witty pieces that launched his career. 14-15 Apr: Vuelos. Choreographer Enrique Cabrera uses award-winning company Aracaladanza’s trademark joyful style to make dancers canter like horses, make a mess at the dinner table, play with fluttering birds and grow wings of their own, to create a magical show. 19 Apr: National Youth Dance Company. Forty young dancers present a unique piece of theatre which addresses themes of melancholia and abandon. 23 Apr: Requiem for Aleppo. Twelve dancers from around the world express their solidarity with the people of Aleppo through dance. David Cazalet’s composition is underscored by the personal reflections of the city’s inhabitants. Please check for times and prices. www.sadlerswells.com. Sadler’s Wells Theatre, Rosebery Avenue, EC1R 4TN. T: 020-7863 8000. Off map. Station: Angel.

CONCERTS: CLASSICAL Barbican 9 Apr: New York Philharmonic Very Young People’s

Concert. Musicians from the New York Philharmonic present an interactive family concert with tunes from Swan Lake, Mikado and Pirates of Penzance. Please check for times and prices. www.barbican.org.uk. Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 8891. C10. Station: Barbican.

Cadogan Hall Classical events hall. 6 Apr: Royal Philharmonic Orchestra. Includes excerpts from Tchaikovsky’s Swan Lake. 7.30pm. Tickets £15-£40. www.cadogan hall.com. 5 Sloane Terrace, SW1X 9DQ. T: 020-7730 4500. G6. Station: Sloane Square.

Royal Albert Hall London’s premiere music hall, home to the BBC Proms. 11 Apr: The Royal Philharmonic Orchestra presents The Music of Bond. 14 Apr: The Royal Choral Society presents Messiah on Good Friday. 18 Apr: Classic FM presents Classic FM Live. Check for times and prices. www.royalalberthall.com. Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212. G4. South Kensington.

St James’s Piccadilly This 1676 church has free recitals every Mon, Wed & Fri at 1.10pm and concerts from 7.30pm. www.sjp. org.uk. St James’s Piccadilly, 197 Piccadilly, W1J 9LL. T: 020-7381 0441. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

St Martin-in-the-Fields Church Extensive programme of lunchtime and evening concerts and recitals. www.smitf.org. St Martin-inthe-Fields Church, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Wigmore Hall Famous concert hall for regular recitals. 16 Apr: Castalian String Quartet. A performance of Schubert, Adès and Beethoven. Check for times and prices. www.wigmore-hall.org.uk. 36 Wigmore St, W1U 2BP. T: 020-7935 2141. D6. Station: Bond Street. 52 W H E R E LO N D O N I A P R I L 2017

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‘BELIEVE THE HYPE’ N E W YO R K POST

THE MUSICAL MatildaTheMusical.com

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ENTERTAINMENT

‘I DARE YOU NOT TO GET UP AND DANCE!’ SALLY BOAZMAN, BBC RADIO 2

CONCERTS: POP, JAZZ & WORLD Cadogan Hall 8 Apr: Flashback – A Tribute to Hindi Cinema. An

evening of Bollywood hits from the 1960s onwards by Ketan Kansara and the RG Academy Orchestra featuring soundtracks from Hindi film legends. 22 Apr: St George’s Day Concert. Buckingham Palace’s Band of the Coldstream Guards join Alexander Armstrong, Mark Templeton and the Commonwealth Children’s Choir. 22 Apr: The Golden Age of British Big Bands. British jazz. 28 Apr: Totó la Momposina y sus Tambores. A rare London performance by the legendary Colombian singer. 29 Apr: Elkie Brooks – Live in Concert. Please check for times and prices. www.cadoganhall.com. 5 Sloane Terrace, SW1X 9DQ. T: 020-7730 4500. F6. Station: Sloane Square.

The Jazz Café This live music and club specialises in jazz and funk. 1 Apr: House Gospel Choir. 4-5 Apr: Mulatu Astatke. The father of Ethio-Jazz Mulatu Astatke performs with his band. Please check for times and prices. www.thejazzcafelondon.com. 5 Parkway, NW1 7PG. T: 0844-847 2514. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

The O2

Visit BeautifulinLondon.co.uk Call 0845 200 7981

Enormous venue for live music. 1 Apr: Olly Murs. Pop. 18-22 Apr: Bruno Mars (p. 7). The star performs as part of his 24K Magic World Tour. Check for times and prices. www.theo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0AX. T: 0844-856 0202. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club London’s most famous jazz venue. 4-6 Apr: John Mayall. Blues from the British star. 10-11 Apr: Benny Golson Quarter. 19-21 Apr: Eliane Elias. Check for times and prices. www.ronniescotts.co.uk. 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

CHILDREN & FAMILIES Chicken Licken 21-23 Apr: The adventures of a growing chick and

her encounters with a hungry fox. Please check for times and prices. www.polkatheatre.com. Polka Theatre, 240 The Broadway, SW19 1SB. T: 020-8543 4888. Off map. Station: Wimbledon.

My First Ballet: Cinderella 11-22 Apr: My First Ballet: Cinderella. Everyone’s

favourite rags-to-riches story, in a beautifully adapted ballet version for children aged three upwards. Please check for times and prices. www.sadlerswells.com. Peacock Theatre, Portugal St, WC2A 2HT. T: 020-7863 8222. D8. Station: Holborn.

Red Riding Hood and the Wolf From 27 Apr: Tale about a kind and hungry wolf. Please check for times. Adult £12.50; child £10.50. www.littleangeltheatre.com. Little Angel Theatre, 14 Dagmar Passage, N1 2DN. T: 020-7226 1787. Off map. Station: Angel.

FILM The Lounge at ODEON Whiteleys Watch films in the intimate screening rooms, with comfortable leather seats, while dining on an exclusive menu from chef Rowley Leigh, with the food served directly to your seat. Please check programme for films. www.odeon.co.uk/thelounge. Whiteleys of Bayswater, Queensway, W2 4YL. T: 0871-2244 007. Off map. Station: Queensway. 54 W H E R E LO N D O N I A P R I L 2017

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SHOPPING | THE GUIDE

Clockwise from left: Hamleys; LEGO Store; Harrods

Child’s play If you thought shopping was just for adults, think again. Children will love taking the lead in London’s most popular kids’ stores. Leicester Square is thriving with children’s shops, most notably the LEGO Store and The Nickelodeon Store. Few stores have queues around the block, but when London mayor Sadiq Khan opened the LEGO Store (p. 57) last year, barriers were put up to control the crowds. As you enter, you are greeted by a 6.53m-high Big Ben, which is made entirely from 200,000 LEGO bricks. The model, which took 2,280 hours to complete, features a working clock that is illuminated at night – just like the real thing. As you explore across the two floors, the LEGO creations get more and more impressive: from Lester, the shop’s mascot, in a bowler hat and Union Jack waistcoat, to a lifesize Tube carriage that you can sit in. Everything is, indeed, awesome. Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles, SpongeBob SquarePants and Dora the Explorer are just

some of the familiar faces you’ll find in the new Nickelodeon Store (p. 57). Spanning two huge floors, the store is a fun-filled destination for families. There are more than 600 products for sale, from clothes to footballs. Paying homage to its London location, there are unique British-themed products, such as SpongeBob SquarePants dressed as one of the Queen’s guards, and Union Jack stationery. In fact, 80 per cent of the products are exclusive to the London Nickelodeon Store. Climb the slimy green staircase, where you may see the lifesize SpongeBob character and have your photo taken with him. Bursting with interactive elements, there is also a fun pre-school zone where young ones can colour in their favourite characters under the Dora the Explorer Tree. As you walk along Regent Street, it’s easy to spot Hamleys (p. 57). Masses of kids are often outside the store, enjoying entertainment by performers such as Rag Doll and Toy Soldier.

Established in 1760, the shop has been in its current location since 1881. One of London’s most iconic shops, it is home to classic games, gadgets and soft toys. The real joy comes via the demonstrations and interactive elements, from a piano mat you can step on to make it play music – think Tom Hanks in Big – to miniature helicopters that you can fly. Harrods in Knightsbridge (p. 57) may be a playground for adults, thanks to its caviar counter, Moroccan Spa and Champagne bar, but the iconic store also offers one of the most luxurious experiences in the city for children: Disney Bibbidi Bobbidi Boutique. At the boutique, young ones can be transformed into little princesses or knights, complete with outfits, hair and make-up. There are experiences inspired by the film Frozen, including the Royal Frozen experience (£1,000) and Snow Queen experience (£200), both of which include a training session with a Fairy Godmother. So there is a happy ending for everyone!

HAMLEYS © DAMIAN GRIFFITHS; LEGO © LEGO; HARRODS COURTESY OF HARRODS

You’ll never hear your children moan about being bored if you use our guide to the best kids’ stores in London, from Hamleys to LEGO, says young-at-heart Kohinoor Sahota

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T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Most shops are open 9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat, Sun 11am-4pm, and some open late on Thur evening. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81

MAJOR SHOPPING AREAS Bond Street Home to designer boutiques, antiques, art and jewellery, plus auction houses Sotheby’s and Bonhams. D6/E6/E7. Station: Bond Street.

Canary Wharf A first-class shopping destination located in a smart and impressive development in the Docklands. Off map. Station: Canary Wharf.

Carnaby Once the domain for 1960s mods and rockers, these days the Carnaby area appeals to the fashionable set, with sports-inspired stores and edgy designers. D7/E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Covent Garden This former fruit and vegetable market is now a popular centre for arts, crafts and special interest shops and stalls. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Hatton Garden This hidden historic corner of London is home to the jewellery trade and the centre of the diamond industry. C9/D9. Station: Farringdon.

Jermyn Street & St James’s

Hamleys

Westfield Stratford City

One of the world’s biggest toy shops (p. 56). Mon-Fri 9am-10pm; Sat 9.30am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.hamleys.com. 188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT. T: 0871-704 1977. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Massive mall with 270 shops. www.westfield.com/ stratfordcity. 2 Stratford Place, E20 1EJ. T: 0208221 7300. Map inset. Station: Stratford.

Harrods Edwardian food and meat halls, men’s, women’s and children’s fashion departments and restaurants and bars (p. 56). Mon-Fri 10am-9pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.harrods.com. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

House of Fraser Fashion, beauty, homeware and electrical goods. Mon-Fri 9.30am-10pm; Sun noon-6.30pm. www.houseoffraser.com. 318 Oxford St, W1C 1HF. T: 0844-800 3752. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

John Lewis Find fashion labels, homeware and electrical goods at this trusted department store. Mon-Wed & Fri 9.30am-8pm; Thur 9.30am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.johnlewis.com. 300 Oxford St, W1A 1EX. T: 020-7629 7711. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Liberty

Some of the oldest specialist menswear shops in London are found in this area, including hatters and shirtmakers. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The epitome of heritage combined with cuttingedge design. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.liberty.co.uk. Great Marlborough St, W1B 5AH. T: 020-7734 1234. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

King’s Road

Selfridges

Once famous for upmarket and alternative fashion, it still attracts a stylish crowd. Peter Jones is good for homeware and Duke of York Square has stylish shops and a food market. G4. Station: Sloane Square.

Oxford Street Europe’s busiest shopping street has major department stores including Selfridges and John Lewis, plus popular high-street chains. D6/D7. Station: Oxford Circus/Bond Street/Marble Arch/ Tottenham Court Road.

Regent Street Originally designed by John Nash, this prestigious area includes Apple, Liberty, Swarovski, the first British Ferrari shop and Burberry. D6/D7/E7. Station: Oxford Circus/Piccadilly Circus. WALLACE SEWELL ANNIVERSARY CUSHION COURTESY OF LONDON TRANSPORT MUSEUM SHOP

HAMLEYS © DAMIAN GRIFFITHS; LEGO © LEGO; HARRODS COURTESY OF HARRODS

FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

Savile Row One of London’s most famous areas for tailoring is in upmarket Mayfair. Find bespoke tailors including Anderson & Sheppard, Gieves & Hawkes, Hardy and Kilgour. E7. Station: Green Park.

Seven Dials In the heart of quirky Covent Garden are seven streets full of independent boutiques, heritage brands and vintage stores. www.sevendials.co.uk. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

MAJOR STORES Fenwick Designer names and regular events. Mon-Wed; Fri & Sat 10am-7pm; Thur 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.fenwick.co.uk. 63 New Bond St, W1S 1RQ. T: 020-7629 9161. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Fortnum & Mason This British institution is famed for its food hall. Mon-Sat 10am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.fortnum andmason.com. 181 Piccadilly, W1A 1ER. T: 0845-300 1707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The finest products in beauty and fashion, including exclusive and limited-edition products. Mon-Sat 9.30am-10pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.selfridges.com. 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 0800-123 400. D6. Station: Bond Street.

MALLS & FACTORY OUTLETS Bicester Village Discount designer clothes at this relaxed haven in Oxfordshire. Mon-Wed & Fri 9am-9pm; Thur & Sat 9am-10pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www.bicester village.com. Bicester Village, Bicester, Oxfordshire, OX26 6WD. T: 01869-323 200. Off map. Station: Bicester Village, from London Marylebone. There is also a bus pick-up service from major hotels.

Westfield London This mall has more than 300 shops, from high-street names to high-end fashion labels. www.westfield. com/london. Ariel Way, W12 7GF. T: 020-3371 2300. Map inset. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.

JEWELLERY & WATCHES Links of London Jewellery and watches with high-quality designs. www.linksoflondon.com. 491 Oxford St, W1A 2LR. T: 020-7491 2371. D5. Station: Bond Street.

Pandora Jewellery, including charm bracelets that you can build. www.pandora.net. 257-259 Oxford St, W1C 2DD. T: 020-7407 2007. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Wempe Big selection of luxury jewellery and watches. www.wempe.com. 43-44 New Bond St, W1S 2SA. T: 020-7493 2299. E6. Station: Bond Street.

KIDS’ STORES LEGO Store LEGO merchandise (p. 56). 3 Swiss Court, W1D 6AP. T: 020-7839 3480. www.lego.com/ en-gb/stores. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

M&M’s World Sweet treats, including London-inspired chocolate souvenirs. Mon-Sat 10am-midnight; Sun noon-6pm. www.mmsworld.com. 1 Swiss Court, W1D 6AP. T: 020-7025 7171. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

The Nickelodeon Store Products inspired by the TV channel’s shows (p. 56). Mon-Fri 10am-10pm; Sat 10am-11pm; Sun noon-6pm. 1 Leicester Square, WC2H 7NA. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

SPECIALIST STORES Buckingham Palace Shop Royal souvenirs. Mon-Sat 9.30am-5pm. www.royal collectionshop.co.uk. 7 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7839 1377. E6. Station: Victoria.

John Bell & Croyden The ‘Queen’s chemist’ also has a walk-in clinic for vaccinations (p. 76). www.johnbellcroyden.co.uk. Check for opening times. 50-54 Wigmore St, W1U 2AU. T: 020-7935 5555. D6. Station: Bond Street.

London Glassblowing Dazzling glass art plus workshops where you can create your own glass pieces. www.londonglass blowing.co.uk. 62-66 Bermondsey St, SE1 3UD. T: 020-7403 2800. F11. Station: London Bridge.

Twinings One of the capital’s oldest shops is full of teas and infusions. Mon-Fri 9.30am-8pm; Sat 10am- 5pm; Sun 11am-6pm. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.

We Built This City Quirky souvenirs, from illustrations to pigeon lamps. www.webuiltthiscity.co.uk. 56-57 Carnaby St, W1F 9QF. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Pick up Tube-inspired souvenirs from the London Transport Museum shop (p. 40) www.wheretraveler.com 57

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which is a landmark in its own right. The leading department store contains men’s and women’s fashions, as well as its world-famous prints that you can find in the haberdashery department, on its scarves and adorning stationery. Regent St, W1B 5AH. T: 020-7734 1234. www.libertylondon.com

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SHOPPING ADVER TORIAL

FALL IN LOVE , WITH LONDON S FINEST DIAMONDS Visit Hatton Garden and fall in love with London’s finest collection of jewellery and diamonds Nestled in the heart of Holborn and just a short taxi ride from London’s West End, you’ll find the historical area of Hatton Garden. Here you’ll discover one of London’s hidden gems; a place steeped in history and romance since Queen Elizabeth I gifted a house and garden in the grounds of Ely Palace to a handsome courtier in 1576. By 1870, Hatton Garden had established an international reputation as London’s jewellery quarter and the UK’s centre for diamonds. As the trend for more extravagant and expensive items of jewellery grew, the demand for hand-made fine jewellery and exquisite diamonds increased. The specialist jewellers in Hatton Garden became famous for trading diamonds, often shipping rare stones around the world as jewellery became a symbol of not only wealth

and stature, but of love and affection. Today, the romance lives on and the Hatton Garden Jewellery Group is a collection of eight stores in Hatton Garden near Farringdon. Since the group’s flagship store Beverley Hills Jewellers opened in 1987, the family-owned brand has carved out a reputation for leading the local market in truly British jewellery design including bespoke diamond pieces, coloured gemstones and remodelling of existing jewellery. So if you’re looking to purchase a token of your love and affection for someone special in your life then look to one of Hatton Garden Jewellery Group’s stores to find your desired piece! For more information, please ask your Concierge for directions and visit any of our stores or call T: 020-7405 4847 and ask to speak to the group’s General Manager, Carolyn Jackson.

VISITORS OFFERED 30% DISCOUNT OFF RRP (excluding pre-owned and sale goods)

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Ditch the ‘I love London’ OT-shirts N D and C visit We Built This City for a stylish souvenir. London’s top designers, ET R Eincluding T Kristjana S Williams, Cecily S N O BRUT RD STREET L I F F Ohave Vessey and Will CClarke, created COACH & ES H O R Snecklaces, items such as artwork, YARD mugs and cushions. Look out for ORD ST C L I F Ffrom eccentric products, London’s rainwater to a brick vase (above), or GRAFTON ST take part in an in-store craft workshop. 56b Carnaby St, W1F 9QF. www.webuilt-thiscity.com H AY H I L L

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Murdock London is home to a traditional barbershop with grooming services for men, from beard trims to wet shaves. It also includes a shop selling high-end styling products, including skincare goods, colognes and shaving kits. 18 Monmouth St, WC2H 9HB. T: 020-3393 7946. www.murdocklondon.com

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SHOPPING

SHOPPING ESSENTIALS

SHIPPING COMPANIES If you are buying items that you don’t wish to carry home, here is a selection of central London companies that can assist in delivering your goods. Please check the websites below for your most convenient branch. DHL: Ryman, 227 Kensington High St, W8 6SA. T: 020-7937 1107 Ryman, 64 Old Brompton Rd, SW7 3LQ. T: 020-7581 0858 Homebase, 195 Warwick Rd, W14 8PU. T: 020-7602 5125. www.dhl.co.uk

SIZING SHOES UK

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CLOTHES Euro

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FEMALE SHOPPER COURTESY OF WESTFIELD; SHOP EXTERIOR COURTESY OF SELFRIDGES; CARNABY STREET © ISTOCK

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Mail Boxes etc: 72 Great Titchfield St, W1W 7QW. T: 020-7580 9111

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28 Old Brompton Rd, SW7 3SS. T: 020-7581 2825 95 Wilton Rd, SW1V 1BZ. T: 020-7630 8123. www.mbe.co.uk Pack & Send: 124 N End Rd, W14 9PP. T: 020-7381 9000 417 Upper Richmond Rd, SW14 7PJ. T: 020-

8392 6990. www. packsend.co.uk UPS: Food & Wine, 20 Wellington St, WC2E 7DD. T: 0845-687 7877 Great Portland Street News, Great Portland St, W1W 5PS. T: 0845-687 7877 Londis, 77-79 Union St, SE1 1SG. T: 0845-687 7877. www.ups.com Post Office: The Plaza Oxford St, W1D 1LT 54-56 Great Portland St, W1W 7NE 111 Baker St, W1U 6SG 32a Grosvenor St, W1K 4PA 9 Russell Square, WC1B 5EQ All branches: T: 0845-611 2970. www.postoffice. co.uk

OPENING TIMES Opening times for most shops are Mon-Sat 9.30am-6pm; Sun 11am4pm unless stated otherwise. Some shops stay open until 9pm on Thursdays for late-night shopping.

TAX-FREE SHOPPING Value Added Tax (VAT) is a 20% sales tax added on all goods except food, books, and children’s clothing. Overseas visitors from outside the EU can shop tax-free in the UK, recouping some of the cost of the item. Don’t forget to ask in-store for more information about tax-free shopping. www.wheretraveler.com 61

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DINING | THE GUIDE

Clockwise from left: Poppie’s; Rules; wood pigeon saltimbocca at Rabbit; the interior of Poppie’s Soho

An English feast Dating back to the 13th century, St George’s Day (23 Apr) is England’s national day. Although celebrations are not what they used to be back then (when the holiday was on a par with Christmas), we Brits still like to indulge in some ye olde feasting – particularly in London, where some of the finest English food can be found. Named after its location on Clerkenwell Green near foodie’s paradise Farringdon, The Green is an old gastropub with a new look and a revamped menu of dishes made with seasonal English ingredients. Begin with white crab salad or mussels in cider before mains of whole grilled plaice or lamb shoulder with suet pudding, washed down with a locally brewed beer. Leather sofas, pot plants and wooden dining tables create a homely vibe (29 Clerkenwell Green, EC1R 0DU). The only thing more English than hearty pub grub is traditional fish and chips. Not just any old fish ‘n’ chip shop, Poppie’s (p. 64) takes one of Britain’s best-loved dishes to a new level of

dining. Sit at the counter for a quick bite on-the-go or in the lively 1970s-style main dining area (perfect for large groups) as classic disco tunes fill the air. Try the crispy whitebait and hand-peeled prawn cocktail to start, followed by traditional battered haddock and fat chips along with homemade mushy peas, a British favourite. If you want to support England’s popular farm-to-plate food movement, then look no further than Rabbit – a rustic little restaurant

on Chelsea’s iconic King’s Road. Run by three brothers who grew up on a vineyard and farm in West Sussex, this is the place to enjoy modern English cooking at its best: try the Brussels sprout salad with ox liver and a side of wild yeast bread and shallot butter (172 King’s Rd, SW3 4UP). Established in 1798 in Covent Garden, Rules (p. 64) is London’s oldest restaurant and the perfect place to sample some traditional English game dishes, sourced from the restaurant’s own estate in the High Pennines, described as ‘England’s last wilderness’. Charles Dickens, HG Wells, Charlie Chaplin and Laurence Olivier were just a few of the venue’s past regulars. Try the venison carpaccio followed by roast crown of wild duck, rounded off with an English cheese plate. Look out for celebrations across the city, too. In Trafalgar Square on 22 Apr there will be the Mayor of London’s annual Feast of St George. It traditionally includes Morris dancing and English food stalls galore.

POPPIE’S © GEORGIA GLYNN SMITH; RULES COURTESY OF RULES; RABBIT COURTESY OF RABBIT

We may be a tiny island, but we have big ambitions when it comes to our cuisine. Sam Rogg is flying the flag for English dishes, from traditional fish and chips to seasonal game

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T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. B (breakfast), L (lunch) D (dinner). Prices per person for three courses: £: up to £25; ££: £25-£40; £££: £40-80; ££££: £80 +. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to map coordinates (p. 80-81)

AMERICAS (NORTH & SOUTH) Avenue Contemporary American dishes and wines in a Manhattan-style setting. £££. Mon-Fri B, L & D; Sat brunch & D; Sun brunch only. www.avenuerestaurant.co.uk. 7-9 St James’s St, SW1A 1EE. T: 020-7321 2111. E7. Station: Green Park.

Chiltern Firehouse This hip hotel restaurant in an old fire station serves US-style dishes. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.chiltern firehouse.com. 1 Chiltern St, W1U 7PA. T: 020-7073 7676. D6. Station: Baker Street.

The Colony Grill Room Wood-panelled dining room inside The Beaumont evokes 1920s America with olde-world US grill fare. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.colonygrillroom.com. The Beaumont, 8 Balderton St, W1K 6TN. T: 020-7499 9499. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Hard Rock Cafe London’s original burger joint is now more than 40 years old. It has an impressive collection of rock memorabilia, funky décor and a fun atmosphere. ££. Daily L & D. www.hardrock.com. 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1LB. T: 020-7514 1700. E8. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Heliot Steak House Great restaurant with views of the gaming floor of the Hippodrome Casino. £££. Daily L & D. www.hippodromecasino.com. Hippodrome Leicester Square, 42-43 Cranbourn St, WC2H 7JH. T: 020-7769 8888. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

BRITISH (MODERN) Aqua Shard Contemporary British cuisine and great views. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.aquashard.co.uk. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-3011 1256. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Butlers Restaurant Top English cuisine in a homely restaurant. £££. Daily L & D. www.chesterfieldmayfair.com. 35 Charles St, W1J 5EB. T: 020-7491 2622. E6. Station: Green Park.

Cheneston’s Intimate restaurant serving tasty dishes. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.milestonehotel.com. The Milestone Hotel, 1 Kensington Court, W8 5DL. T: 020-7917 1000. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

Fera at Claridge’s At this Art Deco restaurant, chef Simon Rogan serves great food made with organic ingredients. Intimate six-seater dining room Aulis allows guests to get up close to the chefs. ££££. Daily L & D. www.claridges. co.uk/fera. Claridge’s Hotel, Brook St, W1K 4HR. T: 020-7107 8888. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Garfunkel’s

Indigo Restaurant Gluten-free hotel restaurant. ££-£££. Daily B & D; Mon-Fri L. www.onealdwych.com. 1 Aldwych, WC2B 4BZ. T: 020-7300 1000. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

St Pancras Grand Brasserie located in St Pancras Station. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.searcys.co.uk. Upper Concourse, St Pancras Station, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross St. Pancras.

BRITISH (TRADITIONAL) Café in the Crypt Located underneath a landmark church. £. Mon-Sat B; daily L. www.smitf.org. St Martin-in-the-Fields, corner of Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1158. D7. Station: Charing Cross.

Old Masters Carvery and Grill Room Dine under chandeliers in this buffet-style carvery. ££££. Daily B & D; Mon-Fri L. www.rubenshotel.com.

The Rubens at the Palace, 39 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PS. T: 020-7834 6600. F6. Station: Victoria.

Park Terrace

A range of popular British dishes, plus pizzas, pasta, wraps and a salad bar. Many West End and central locations. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.garfunkels.co.uk. 19 Irving St, WC2H 7AU (and branches). T: 0207930 8087. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Located in the Royal Garden Hotel London, this restaurant overlooks Kensington Gardens. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.parkterracerestaurant.co.uk. 2-24 Kensington High St, W8 4PT. T: 020-7937 8000. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

Great Court Restaurant

The Ritz Restaurant

Enjoy lunch or afternoon tea above the iconic Reading Room. ££. Daily L; Fri D. www.britishmuseum.org. British Museum, Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 0207323 8990. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

One of London’s prettiest dining rooms. Men should wear a jacket and tie. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.theritzlondon.com. The Ritz, 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7300 2370. E6/7. Station: Green Park.

Jackson + Rye American diner-style dishes. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.jacksonrye.com. 56 Wardour St, W1D 4JG (and branches). T: 020-7437 8338. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

JW Steakhouse Dry-aged American USDA prime beef with a variety of toppings. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.jwsteakhouse. co.uk. Grosvenor House Hotel, 86 Park Lane, W1K 7TL. T: 020-7399 8460. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Oblix Rise up to the 32nd floor of London landmark The Shard for ultra-sophisticated New York-style rotisserie/grill cuisine and amazing views. An ‘interactive sommelier station’ allows you to get involved in your wine choice. £££. Daily L & D. www.oblixrestaurant.com. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-7268 6700. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Planet Hollywood CINNAMON BAZAAR COURTESY OF CINNAMON BAZAAR

POPPIE’S © GEORGIA GLYNN SMITH; RULES COURTESY OF RULES; RABBIT COURTESY OF RABBIT

FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

Huge London outlet of the international chain. ££. Daily L & D (bar to 1am). www.planet hollywoodlondon.com. 57-60 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QX. T: 020-7287 1000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Rainforest Cafe Busy all-day dining in a mock rainforest setting. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.therainforestcafe. co.uk. 20 Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 7EU. T: 0207434 3111. E3. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

STK London Dine in the ME London hotel’s steak house on British and American prime steaks. ££££. Daily D (from 5pm). www.stkhouse.com. ME Hotel, 336 Strand, WC2R 1HA. T: 020-7395 3450. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Spice of life Vivek Singh is behind some of London’s most acclaimed Indian restaurants, including The Cinnamon Club, Cinnamon Kitchen and, now, Cinnamon Bazaar, which is inspired by the Silk Road. Proving variety is the spice of life, the restaurant serves kedgeree or masala omelette at breakfast, as well as Indian-inspired afternoon tea, lunch and dinner. Plates are made for sharing and include curry leaf and black pepper fried shrimp, chargrilled cauliflower and haddock curry. The highlight is its chaat – street food usually made with chickpeas, yoghurt and chutney. Once you’ve tried the samosa chaat – pastry pockets stuffed with vegetables – you’ll understand why Cinnamon Bazaar is cornering the market. 28 Maiden Lane, WC2E 7JS. T: 020-7395 1400. www.cinnamon-bazaar.com. E8. Station: Covent Garden/Charing Cross www.wheretraveler.com 63

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DINING Rules

Min Jiang

Skylon

Long-established restaurant where the likes of Charles Dickens ate (p. 62). Hearty appetites are needed! ££££. Daily L & D. www.rules.co.uk. 35 Maiden Lane, WC2E 7LB. T: 020-7836 5314. E8. Covent Garden.

Glorious Sichuan cuisine and leafy views. ££££. Daily L & D. www.minjiang.co.uk. Royal Garden Hotel, Kensington High St, W8 4PT. T: 0207361 1988. F3. Station: High Street Kensington.

Sophie’s Steakhouse & Bar

Royal China Club

Glamorous dining with panoramic river views. Try the roasted monkfish tail and white beans. ££££. Daily L & D. www.skylon-restaurant. co.uk. Royal Festival Hall, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-7654 7800. E8. Station: Waterloo.

Relaxed bar-restaurant in Theatreland. Try the Aberdeen Angus roast beef. £££. Daily L & D. www.sophiessteakhouse.co.uk. 29-31 Wellington St, WC2E 7DB (and Chelsea branch). T: 020-7836 8836. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

This huge Cantonese restaurant is especially popular for its dim sum. ££. Daily L & D. www.royalchina group.co.uk. 24-26 Baker St, W1U 3BZ (and branches). T: 020-7487 4688. D6. Station: Baker Street.

The Wolseley

CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN

The magnificent dining room sets the scene for this famous brasserie. Its breakfast is legendary. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.thewolseley.com. 160 Piccadilly, W1J 9EB. T: 020-7499 6996. E7. Station: Green Park.

CHINESE Bright Courtyard Club Wonderful, top-notch Cantonese and Shanghai dishes in a sophisticated setting. £££. Daily L & D. www.brightcourtyard.co.uk. 43-45 Baker St, W1U 8EW. T: 020-7486 6998. D6. Station: Baker Street.

Chai Wu Located on the fifth floor of world-famous department store Harrods, this modern restaurant serves dishes made with luxury ingredients. £££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D. www.chaiwu.co.uk. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-3819 8888. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Hakkasan Multi-award-winning restaurant and bar with modern Chinese cuisine. ££££. Daily L & D; Thur-Sat last orders 12.30am. www.hakkasan.com. 8 Hanway Place, W1T 1HF (and Mayfair branch). T: 020-7927 7000. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

1 Lombard Street Gutsy, modern cooking under a glass dome. Brasserie £££; Restaurant ££££. Mon-Fri B, L & D; Sat L. www.1lombardstreet.com. 1 Lombard St, EC3V 9AA. T: 020-7929 6611. D10. Station: Bank.

The Delaunay Situated in Theatreland, this venue’s interior and menu are inspired by central Europe’s grand cafés. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.thedelaunay.com. 55 Aldwych, WC2B 4BB. T: 020-7499 8558. E8. Station: Temple.

Galvin at Windows Michelin-starred restaurant serving modern haute cuisine. Booking essential; smart dress. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L; Mon-Sat D. www.galvinat windows.com. Hilton on Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208 4021. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

The Ivy One of London’s great restaurants and a favourite with celebrities. £££-££££. Daily L & D. Last orders at midnight. www.the-ivy.co.uk. 1-5 West St, WC2H 9NQ. T: 020-7836 4751. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

Ting Located on level 35 of The Shard, this restaurant serves European dishes with an Asian influence. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.shangri-la.com/london. Shangri-La, The Shard, 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8000. F10. Station: London Bridge.

FISH AND SEAFOOD J. Sheekey Chic fish, seafood and seasonal game restaurant, which is popular with celebrities. You can watch the chefs at work in the open kitchen. ££££. Daily L & D. www.j-sheekey.co.uk. 28-35 St Martin’s Court, WC2N 4AL. T: 020-7240 2565. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Mr Fish Enjoy traditional British fish and chips, or try the halibut in breadcrumbs. £. Daily L & D. www.mrfishuk.com. 51 Salusbury Rd, NW6 6NJ. T: 020-7624 8181. Off map. Station: Queen’s Park.

Poppie’s Traditional fish and chip shop (p. 62). £. Daily L & D. www.poppiesfishandchips.co.uk. 55 Old Compton St, W1D 6HW (and branches). T: 020-7734 4845. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

FRENCH Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester Exquisite food and a setting to dress up for from this Michelin-starred chef. ££££. Tue-Fri L & D; Sat D. Booking essential. www.alainducasse-dorchester.com. The Dorchester, Park Lane, W1K 1QA. T: 020-7629 8866. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Aubaine A wonderful combination of a Parisian salon and a Provençal bistro. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.aubaine. co.uk. 260-262 Brompton Rd, SW3 2AS (and branches). T: 020-7052 0100. F5. Station: South Kensington.

Brasserie Joël This French brasserie serves classics such as tuna tartare and tournedos Rossini. ££. Mon-Fri & Sun L & D; Daily D. www.brasseriejoel.co.uk. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7272. F8. Station: Waterloo/Westminster. Bustling French brasserie and bar with glorious décor. £-££. Daily L & D. www.brasseriezedel.com. 20 Sherwood St, W1F 7ED. T: 020-7734 4888. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

It takes two Famed for their French-inspired restaurants, including Windows and La Chapelle, the Michelin-starred Galvin brothers’ latest venture is a shining example of great British brasserie food. Situated in a five-star Mayfair hotel once favoured by Elizabeth Taylor and Marlon Brando, Galvin at The Athenaeum uses ingredients sourced from independent farmers to create classic dishes with a contemporary twist, such as Cornish sardines, venison with quince and grilled lobster. This is a great option for pre-theatre dining, and on Sundays you can enjoy a roast lunch with a carafe of wine for £25 per person. 116 Piccadilly, W1J 7BJ. T: 020-7499 3464. www.athenaeumhotel.com. E6. Station: Green Park

Clos Maggiore Exquisite dining room with one of the best wine lists in London. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.closmaggiore.com. 333 King St, WC2 8JD. T: 020-7379 9696. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Galvin Bistrot de Luxe The Galvin brothers’ Parisian-style bistro. ££££. Daily L & D. www.galvinrestaurants.com. 66 Baker St, W1U 7DJ. T: 020-7935 4007. D6. Station: Baker Street.

Les 110 de Taillevent Contemporary French dining and more than 100 wines offered by the glass. £££. Daily L & D. www.les-110taillevent-london.com. 16 Cavendish Square, W1G 9DD. T: 020-3141 6016. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

GALVIN AT THE ATHENAEUM COURTESY OF THE ATHENAEUM

Brasserie Zédel

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THREE OF THE VERY BEST INDIAN RESTAUR ANTS This award winning sophisticated Indian Grill offers intense flavours with an innovative twist, in a theatrical open kitchen setting. Michelin star. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Halkin Arcade, Motcomb Street Knightsbridge, London SW1X 8JT T: 020 7823 1166 E: amaya@realindianfood.com Private dining room seats 14

The rich setting, interesting art and romantic candle lighting are secondary details in London’s haven of great Indian contemporary food. Open for lunch and dinner from Monday to Saturday. Saturday Brunch with live jazz music. 73 St James’s Street, London SW1A 1PH T: 020 7629 6688 E: chutneymary@realindianfood.com Two private dining rooms seat 30 and 16

Classical dishes, lovingly prepared and beautifully served in sumptuous surroundings overlooking Regent Street. The oldest Indian restaurant in the world. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 1st floor 99 Regent Street, London W1B 4RS T: 020 7734 1401 E: veeraswamy@realindianfood.com Private dining room seats 24

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DINING

For the quintessential English experience, stop for an afternoon tea with a twist

Chutney Mary

This is one of London’s oldest French restaurants – it was established in 1927. ££. Mon-Sat L & D; Sun L. www.lescargotrestaurant.co.uk. 48 Greek St, W1D 4EF. T: 020-7439 7474. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Expect a gourmet tour of seven Indian regions at this superior restaurant. £££. Mon-Fri B, L & D; Sat L & D. www.chutneymary.com. 73 St James’s St, SW1 1PH. T: 020-7629 6688. E7. Station: Green Park.

Le Pont de la Tour

Gaylord

This riverside restaurant serves classic French dishes in a former tea warehouse. £££. Daily L & D. www.lepontdelatour.co.uk. 36d Shad Thames, SE1 2YE. T: 020-7403 8403. Off map. Station: London Bridge.

GASTROPUBS

Gymkhana

The Eagle Popular gastropub. ££. Mon-Sat L & D; Sun L. www.theeaglefarringdon.co.uk. 159 Farringdon Rd, EC1R 3AL. T: 020-7837 1353. D9. Station: Farringdon.

Fox & Anchor An authentic British pub with cosy corners and a great seasonal menu. £££. Mon-Fri B, L & D. www.foxandanchor.com. 115 Charterhouse Square, EC1M 6AA. T: 020-7250 1300. D9. Station: Barbican.

The Grazing Goat Fresh local produce is the trademark of this delightful venue. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.the grazinggoat.co.uk. 6 New Quebec St, W1H 7RQ. T: 020-7724 7243. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

108 PANTRY Retreat inside this bright, homely yet modern restaurant set within The Marylebone hotel’s stunning Edwardian townhouse for a choice of afternoon teas (above). On the classic menu, you can enjoy a traditional selection of delicate fresh sandwiches and fluffy buttermilk scones with Devonshire clotted cream, plus cakes and pastries. There are also ‘free from’ options for those looking for healthier alternatives in their afternoon tea spread – we were particularly impressed by how moist the gluten-free cakes were. Choose from a selection of classic teas and, for the ultimate indulgence, add a glass of rosé Champagne and fresh strawberries to your spread. The Marylebone hotel, 108 Marylebone Lane, W1U 2QE

THE ROSEBERY LOUNGE Set within the sumptuous surroundings of the Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, The Rosebery Lounge offers an impressive selection of delicate pastries and bespoke teas, blended by a dedicated Tea Master. Gaze out over bustling Knightsbridge from the contemporary dining area or head out on to the terrace for an alfresco afternoon tea unlike anywhere else in the city. Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, 66 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LA

QUAGLINO’S For something truly decadent, head to Mayfair restaurant Quaglino’s for a 1920sinspired Prohibition Afternoon Tea. Serving themed cocktails in quirky vessels, buttermilk scones and twisted classics such as smoked salmon rosti, mini chocolate marquise and strawberry frangipane tarts, this tea is sure to transport you to a bygone era of forbidden pleasures. Upgrade to the Champagne Tea to sip on Veuve Clicquot while you dine. 16 Bury St, SW1Y 6AJ

Legendary Indian restaurant famed for its awardwinning tandoori and Mughlai cuisine. ££. Daily L & D. www.gaylordlondon.com. 79-81 Mortimer St, W1W 7SJ. T: 020-7580 3615. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

The Thomas Cubitt Classic dining room and bar serving British produce. Try the beef sirloin Sunday roast. £££. Daily L & D. www.thethomascubitt.co.uk. 44 Elizabeth St, SW1W 9PA. T: 020-7730 6060. G6. Station: Victoria.

Michelin-starred restaurant designed in the style of the old colonial Indian gymkhana clubs. £££. Daily L & D. www.gymkhanalondon.com. 42 Albemarle St, W1S 4JH. T: 020-3011 5900. E6. Station: Green Park.

Khan’s of Kensington This popular restaurant serves a great range of fish and vegetarian dishes. ££. Daily L & D. www.khansof kensington.co.uk. 3 Harrington Rd, SW7 3ES. T: 0207584 4114. G4. Station: South Kensington.

La Porte des Indes Indian cuisine with a Gallic twist, inspired by the Pondicherry region. £££. Daily L & D. www.la portedesindes.com. 32 Bryanston St, W1H 7EG. T: 020-7224 0055. D6. Station: Marble Arch.

Little India This cosy establishment near the Royal Albert Hall specialises in dishes from Bengal, including fish bhuna. ££. Daily L & D. www.littleindialondon.com. 32 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 020-7584 3476. F4. Station: Gloucester Road.

Masala Zone

The Wells This bright and airy pub boasts quality British cuisine in a leafy location. ££. Daily L & D. www. thewellshampstead.co.uk. 30 Well Walk, NW3 1BX. T: 020-7794 3785. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

INDIAN

Pie and mash, and jellied eels with parsley liquor, are traditional East End favourites

Amaya Michelin-starred food is cooked in the dramatic show kitchen. The exotic Indian grills are wonderful. £££. Daily L & D. www.amaya.biz. 19 Motcomb St, SW1X 8JT. T: 020-7823 1166. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.

Baluchi at The Lalit London Elegant pan-Indian restaurant which is part of a new five-star boutique hotel. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.thelalit.com. 181 Tooley St, SW1 2JR. T: 0203765 0000. E11. Station: London Bridge.

Benares Michelin-starred chef Atul Kochhar creates wonderful modern Indian cuisine. Private dining is available. ££££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.benaresrestaurant.com. 12a Berkeley Square House, Berkeley Square, W1J 6BS. T: 020-7629 8886. E6. Station: Green Park.

Bombay Place The cuisine at this well-established restaurant is a cut above the rest. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.bombaypalace.co.uk. 50 Connaught St, W2 2AA. T: 020-7723 8855. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

Chor Bizarre This popular restaurant specialises in cuisine from north India. £££. Mon-Sat L; daily D. www.chor bizarre.com. 16 Albermarle St, W1S 4HW. T: 020-7629 9802. E7. Station: Green Park.

Enjoy informal dining in these vibrant good-value restaurants. Start with chaat (street snacks), then tuck into a delicious grand thali. £. Daily L & D (and branches). www.masalazone.com. 9 Marshall St, W1F 7ER. T: 020-7287 9966. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Memories of India Taste authentic flavours from North India. Specialities include fish curry. ££. Daily L & D. www.memories ofindia.com. 18 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 0207589 6450. G4. Station: Gloucester Road.

Mint Leaf Contemporary Indian dishes are the trademark of this stylish restaurant. £££. Mon-Fri L; daily D. www.mint leafgroup.com. Suffolk Place, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HX. T: 020-7930 9020. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Tamarind Michelin-starred contemporary take on Mughal and North West Frontier cuisine. £££. Mon-Fri, Sun L; daily D. www.tamarindrestaurant.com. 20 Queen St, W1J 5PR. T: 020-7629 3561. E6. Station: Green Park.

Veeraswamy The UK’s oldest Indian restaurant has a Michelin star. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.veeraswamy.com. Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 99 Regent St, W1B 4RS. T: 020-7734 1401. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

INTERNATIONAL Bbar Enjoy top-quality meat at this relaxed restaurant and bar, which is located close to Buckingham Palace. ££. Daily L & D. www.bbarlondon.com. 43 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7958 7000. F6. Station: Victoria.

108 PANTRY COURTESY OF THE MARYLEBONE HOTEL

Time for tea

L’Escargot

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108 PANTRY COURTESY OF THE MARYLEBONE HOTEL

The Cavendish Fish, meats and salads are prepared while you watch. ££. Daily L & D. 35 New Cavendish St, W1G 9TR. www.35newcavendish.co.uk. T: 020-7487 3030. C5. Station: Baker Street.

Fifteen Jamie Oliver’s busy not-for-profit trattoria is run as a training scheme for unemployed youngsters. Daily L & D. ££. www.fifteen.net. 15 Westland Place, N1 7LP. T: 020-3375 1515. C10. Station: Old Street.

ENJOY THE THALI AT

REAL INDIAN FOOD

ITALIAN Bella Italia Excellent for traditional dishes, such as Roma pizzas, meaty lasagne and creamy carbonara. Choose from multiple branches citywide including Bayswater, Soho and Covent Garden. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.bella italia.co.uk. 100 Baker St, W1U 6WG. T: 020-3058 3458. D6. Station: Baker Street.

Cicchetti Outstanding small plates and a buzzy atmosphere. The menu is like a tour of Italy’s many dishes. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.sancarlocicchetti.co.uk. 30 Wellington St, WC2E 7BD (and Piccadilly branch). T: 020-7240 6339. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Cucina Asellina In this outpost of New York’s Asellina, enjoy artisanal Italian dishes such as strozzapreti pasta with prawns. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.asellina.com. ME Hotel, 336 Strand, WC2R 1HA. T: 020-7395 2445. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Gigi’s

BAYSWATER, 75 BISHOPS BRIDGE RD COVENT GARDEN, 48 FLORAL ST SELFRIDGES 4TH FL, 400 OXFORD ST EARLS COURT, 147 EARLS COURT ROAD

CAMDEN, 25 PARKWAY ISLINGTON, 80 UPPER ST SOHO, 9 MARSHALL ST

M ASA LA ZO N E .COM

Classic dishes are given a stylish twist in this Mayfair restaurant. Mains include black tagliatelle with cuttlefish and mussels. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.gigismayfair.com. 22 Woodstock St, W1C 2AR. T: 020-7499 8743. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Mayfair Pizza Co. Bright and airy restaurant where you can watch excellent chefs at work in an open-plan kitchen with a rustic pizza oven. ££. Daily L & D. www.mayfair pizzaco.com. 4 Lancashire Court, New Bond St, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7629 2889. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Quattro Passi Acclaimed chef Antonio Mellino’s fine-dining venue serves dishes inspired by Italy’s south coast. Try the grilled red prawns, langoustine and fillet of wild sea bass. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.quattropassi.co.uk. 34 Dover St, W1S 4NG. T: 020-3096 1444. E6. Station: Green Park.

Rossopomodoro Dine on authentic Neapolitan pizza and pasta in this quality department store restaurant. £. Daily L & D. www.rossopomodoro.co.uk. John Lewis, 300 Oxford St, W1C 1DX. T: 020-7629 7711. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Located opposite Buckingham Palace Open daily for lunch, dinner and evening cocktails

Verdi Casual dining and authentic flavours of Italy. ££. Daily L & D. www.verdiitalian.com. Door 12, Royal Albert Hall, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7070 4401. F4. Station: South Kensington.

JAPANESE & KOREAN Benihana The entertaining chefs prepare griddle-cooked dishes at your table. Try the Wagyu beef and prawn, sushi and sashimi. £££. Daily L & D. www.benihana. co.uk. 37 Sackville St, W1S 3EH (and branches). T: 020-7494 2525. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Private Events for up to 300 guests Call 020 7958 7000 43 Buckingham Palace Road, London SW1W 0PP www.bbarlondon.com

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DINING Engawa Choose from three, five and eight-course tasting menus at this small but excellent sushi spot. £££. Daily L & D. www.engawa.uk. 2 Ham Yard, W1D 7DT. T: 020-7287 5724. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Inamo Covent Garden Funky Asian-fusion restaurant – try the spicy miso salmon and rice. ££. Daily L & D. www.inamorestaurant.com. 11-14 Hanover Place, WC2E 9JP. T: 020-7484 0500. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Nobu Top-quality sashimi, sushi and tempura. Bento box L £33; set lunch £29. Booking essential. ££££. Daily L & D. www.noburestaurants.com. 19 Old Park Lane, W1K 1LB. T: 020-7447 4747. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Roka Mayfair This stylish space with a centrepiece robata grill serves Japanese ’robatayaki’ cuisine (and branches). £££-££££. Daily L & D. www.rokarestaurant.com. 30 North Audley St, W1K 6ZF. T: 020-7305 5644. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

MIDDLE EASTERN, GREEK & TURKISH Elysee This family-run restaurant serves Greek dishes including keftedes and dolmades. Roof terrace and late licence. £££. Mon-Sat D. www.elysee restaurant.com. 13 Percy St, W1T 1DP. T: 020-7636 4804. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Momo Glamorous candlelit restaurant with a lovely authentic Moroccan décor. £££. Daily L & D. www.momoresto.com. 25 Heddon St, W1B 4BH. T: 020-7434 4040. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

SOUTH EAST ASIAN

SPANISH

Chi Kitchen

El Pirata

Enjoy exotic dishes influenced by Thai, Chinese, Malaysian, Japanese, Vietnamese and Korean food. It opens at 7.30am. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.chi kitchen.co.uk. 334-348 Oxford St, W1C 1JG. T: 020-3841 6888. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

House of Ho Four-storey townhouse serving exceptional Vietnamese cuisine plus great Asian cocktails. Try the Wagyu short rib hot and cold pho. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.houseofho.co.uk. 1 Percy St, W1T 1DB. T: 020-7323 9130. D7. Station: Goodge Street.

Mango Tree This elegant restaurant near Buckingham Palace serves classic Thai dishes. Try the sea bass wrapped in banana leaf, the green papaya salad with peanuts and spicy prawn curry, or opt for the five-course ‘taste’ menu. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.mangotree.org.uk. 46 Grosvenor Place, SW1X 7EQ. T: 020-7823 1888. F6. Station: Victoria.

Rosa’s Thai Café

This busy tapas bar-restaurant in the heart of Mayfair serves excellent hot and cold dishes, including cured meats and fresh seafood. ££-£££. Mon-Fri L & D; Sat D. www.elpirata.co.uk. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AG. T: 020-7491 3810. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Iberica Victoria Traditional dishes get a modern twist on a menu created by award-winning chef Nacho Manzano. Don’t leave without trying the jamon Iberico. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.ibericarestaurants.com. 5-6 Zig Zag Building, 68 Victoria St, SW1E 6SQ. T: 020-3327 0200. F7. Station: Victoria.

Moro North Africa meets Spain in this highly regarded Moorish restaurant. £££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D. www.moro.co.uk. 34-36 Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QE. T: 020-7833 8336. Off map. Station: Farringdon.

VEGETARIAN Tibits

Expect modern cuisine in a relaxed setting. Try the spicy fish with mixed herbs, or the papaya salad. Daily L & D. ££. www.rosasthaicafe.com. 6 Theberton St, N1 0QX (and branches). T: 0203393 2482. Off map. Station: Angel.

Enjoy buffet-style dishes at this relaxed veggie restaurant-bar. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.tibits.co.uk. 12-14 Heddon St, off Regent St, W1B 4DA. T: 0207758 4110. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Thai Pot

Woodlands

This small and very popular café-style restaurant is decorated with modern Asian art. The set meals are great value. £. Mon-Sat L & D. www.thaipot.biz. 1 Bedfordbury, WC2N 4BP. T: 020-7379 4580. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Well-flavoured cuisine from throughout India. Enjoy dishes such as cashew pakoras. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.woodlandsrestaurant.co.uk. 77 Marylebone Lane, W1U 2PS (and branches). T: 020-7486 3862. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Nopi Middle Eastern-inspired food from Yotam Ottolenghi. Check out the brunch menu. ££. Daily B & L; Mon-Sat D. www.nopi-restaurant.com. 21-22 Warwick St, W1B 5NE (and branches). T: 020-7494 9584. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Yasmeen Authentic dishes influenced by Lebanon and Syria. ££. Daily L & D. www.yasmeenrestaurant.com. 1 Blenheim Terrace, NW8 0EH. T: 020-7624 2921. Off map. Station: St John’s Wood.

RIVERSIDE Bateaux London See London’s sights on a river cruise while dining on modern British cuisine. £££. Daily L & D cruises; Sun jazz with three-course L. Nightly evening cruises. www.bateauxlondon.com. Embankment Pier, WC2N 6NU. T: 020-7695 1800. E8. Station: Embankment. Drift down the Thames past London’s landmarks while enjoying a four-course dinner. Nightly £80 per person; booking essential. Departs Westminster Pier 7.30pm. www.citycruises.com. Westminster Pier, SW1A 2JR. T: 020-7740 0400. F8. Station: Westminster.

RS Hispaniola Delightful moored restaurant boat on the River Thames serving modern European cuisine. Try the rib-eye steak with triple-cooked chips. £££. Daily L & D. www.hispaniola.co.uk. Victoria Embankment/Hungerford Bridge, WC2N 5DJ. T: 020-7839 3011. E8. Station: Embankment.

California dreaming Pomona’s has brought a ray of sunshine to Notting Hill. Inspired by the cuisine of California, the food ranges from charcoal-cooked meat to seafood, with an emphasis on fresh vegetables and grains. Oriental flavours also appear on the menu, such as bone marrow with wasasbi, which is served with a bacon vodka shot. The vibrant interior – complete with brightly coloured seats – buzzes in the evening, but there is a quieter alfresco area. As for the wine list, make sure you choose one of the West Coast wonders. 47 Hereford Rd, W2 5AH. T: 020-7229 1503. www.pomonas.co.uk. Off map. Station: Notting Hill

POMONA’S © ANDREW MEREDITH

London Showboat

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PROMOTIONAL FEATURE | WHERE LONDON

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF SOPHIE’S STEAKHOUSE & BAR

If you’re looking for top-notch food and a family-friendly atmosphere, visit Sophie’s Steakhouse & Bar, says Sam Rogg ophie’s Steakhouse & Bar has been raising the steaks for more than a decade. Opened in 2002 in Chelsea and in 2008 in Covent Garden, by lifelong friends Sophie Bathgate and Rupert Power, the aim was simple: to create a friendly steakhouse with a focus on quality ingredients, value for money and fun. Today the restaurant offers some of London’s finest steaks, including succulent beef cuts alongside fresh fish, barbecue ribs and salads. Surrounded by some of London’s greatest theatres, Sophie’s is the ideal spot for pre-theatre dining. Now available every day, the menu’s mains include a classic hamburger, Sam’s mac and cheese and a steak frites, while desserts include crème brûlée, cheesecake and chocolate mousse. After you find that your night out does not have to break the bank, you will be asking for an encore – you can enjoy two courses for £15 and three courses for £18 (available noon-7pm; after 10pm).

breast and barbecue mini pork ribs, while desserts are three different flavours of ice cream – strawberry, vanilla and chocolate flavour – served in homemade waffle cones. Proving that the restaurant is child-friendly, you can’t get better than a free traditional roast on a Sunday, which is served with giant Yorkshire puddings, roast potatoes and vegetables. Meanwhile, big kids can indulge in the Chef Cuts, which are large cuts of native-breed British beef, aged and butchered in house – the most popular is a 35oz Porterhouse.

FARM TO PLATE ‘We’re all about British, locally sourced food here – we get most of our meat from Sophie’s family farm,’ says general manager Emily Sparling. Other locally sourced produce include vegetables and eggs. Indeed, this is just one of the secrets to

Sophie’s success: a farm-to-plate concept that starts with meat sourced in Devon, Cornwall and Sophie’s own farm. ‘Sophie grew up on a farm in Oxfordshire – we still get quite a lot of our meat from there,’ says Emily. ‘All the cows are Aberdeen Angus, which is quite something. We take our staff there regularly to see how it all works.’ ‘A lot of love goes into our steaks, from the minute the meat arrives to the moment we serve it to our customers,’ says Emily of the process, which includes resting the meat before it’s ready to serve.

WELL WORTH A VISIT With its spacious setting, laid-back atmosphere and delicious dishes, Sophie’s Steakhouse & Bar is well worth visiting. ‘It’s not your standard dining experience,’ explains Emily. ‘It’s more like: “We’re having a big party, come and join in.” That’s our vibe.’ And on a visit to London, that’s just the kind of vibe you want. 29-31 Wellington St, WC2E 7DB. T: 020-7836 8836. www.sophiessteakhouse.co.uk

THE KIDS ARE ALRIGHT Children will love the meal deal that comes with great-tasting dishes, while parents will love the fact that the cost is only £7. What do you call a cow in an earthquake? A milkshake! These are just some of the jokes children can enjoy, along with a quiz on beef, when they ask for the Kids’ Menu. Mains include fisherman’s pie, grilled chicken

Clockwise from main: Sophie’s Steakhouse interior; preparing the steaks; a delicious martini Inset: general manager Emily Sparling www.wheretraveler.com 69

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W H E R E

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P R O M O T I O N

BEST OF LONDON DINING Little India One of the few Indian restaurants owned and managed by a lady. Why not come and try our signature dish ‘Naga Chicken’ – cooked in spices and a naga chilli and tossed dry, as well as this we pride ourselves in traditional home style cooking. Come and enjoy a truly unique and memorable dining experience whilst indulging yourself in the real taste of fine Indian cuisine. Open 7 days a week – Monday to Saturday, noon till 11.30pm and Sunday noon till 11pm. Dinner reservations are strongly recommended as Little India is really little! Perfectly located near The Royal Albert Hall, Harrods, Kensington Palace and The Natural History Museum.

Cafe in the Courtyard St Martin-in-the-Fields

32 Gloucester Road, London SW7 4RB Tel: 020 7584 3476/020 7589 9315 www.littleindialondon.com Station: Gloucester Road

Take a break from a busy day of sightseeing and enjoy some London sunshine at Café in the Courtyard. This seasonal outdoor café is located in the terrace just behind the church of St Martinin-the-Fields, Trafalgar Square. Open daily from 8am (11am on Saturdays and Sundays), Café in the Courtyard serves a delightful range of hot and cold drinks, pastries, snacks, baguettes, salads and soup throughout the day and in the evening there are scrumptious platters to share and a full wine list. Visit the website for special offers and opening hours. Café in the Courtyard, St Martin-in-the-Fields, WC2N 4JJ Station: Charing Cross Email: café@smitf.org www.smitf.org

Khans of Kensington Visit Khans of Kensington for delicious, genuine Indian cuisine which a core of devotees have been enjoying for many years. The restaurant prides itself on its modern take on traditional North Indian cuisine, with mouthwatering dishes such as its famous fish koliwada and lamb chop in honey sauce. The expansive menu covers many dishes, but if you don’t see your personal favourite on the menu, just ask the team of expert chefs and they will be more than happy to set that right. The restaurant is just a minute’s walk from South Kensington tube station. Mon-Sat noon-11.30pm, Sun noon-11pm.

Memories of India

3 Harrington Rd, SW7 3ES. T: 020-7584 4114. www.khansofkensington.co.uk. Station: South Kensington

At Memories of India you can explore and experience the many varied tastes of India, with traditional and creative Indian dishes with a twist of ingenuity. Relax and let the team of award-winning chefs take your taste buds on an exotic trip and an unforgettable dining experience. The dishes here contain the finest ingredients in order to create the uncompromising flavours of India. We have a private room for parties and corporate functions. Mon-Sat noon-11.30pm; Sun noon-11pm. 18 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 020-7589 6450/020-7581 3734. www.memoriesofindia.com. Station: Gloucester Road.

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W H E R E

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BEST OF LONDON DINING Chi Kitchen Contemporary pan-Asian restaurant Chi Kitchen opened last year on the ground floor of Debenhams on Oxford Street. The word ‘chi’, in Chinese, means energy, and the restaurant strives to offer good energy, as well as great food, to hungry shoppers. The open-plan restaurant lets you watch the chefs prepare Thai, Chinese, Malaysian, Japanese, Vietnamese and Korean cuisine. Chi Kitchen will take you on a unique culinary journey through south east Asia. Mention ‘Where London’ when you book to enjoy a complimentary glass of Champagne when you buy any main meal at Chi Kitchen. Mon-Sat 7.30am-11pm (last orders 10.15pm), Sun 11.30am-10pm (last orders 9.15pm).

El Pirata

Ground Floor Debenhams (Henrietta Place entrance), 334-348 Oxford St, W1C 1JG. T: 020-3841 6888. www.chikitchen.co.uk. Station: Oxford Circus

For more than 20 years, El Pirata has hit the spot as London’s top restaurant for traditional Spanish tapas. Located in the heart of Mayfair, it’s the perfect place for a true taste of the Mediterranean in a chic yet friendly setting. Informal, inexpensive and, above all, authentic – the restaurant uses the finest Spanish produce, including jamón ibérico, to create its classic dishes. Celebrity fans include Brian May and Johnny Depp, and food critics are unanimous in their praise, describing it as a ‘Spanish gem’ (Zagat) with ‘surprisingly good prices’ (Harden’s), and ‘a favourite with Mayfair’s Spanish community and converts to the new Iberian cause’ (Square Meal ). Mon-Fri noon-11.30pm; Sat 6pm-11.30pm; closed Sun. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AQ. T: 020-7491 3810/7409 1315. www.elpirata.co.uk. Station: Hyde Park Corner/Green Park

Chai Wu Chai Wu is a contemporary Chinese restaurant, located on the Fifth Floor of the iconic department store, Harrods, in Knightsbridge. The restaurant design incorporates the five elements of Chinese philosophy: wood, metal, water, earth and fire, creating an elegant, opulent and welcoming dining setting. The tasty, exotic and colourful dishes reflect the finest of modern Chinese cuisine. The menu consists of small dishes such as black truffle sour soup and Chilean sea bass dumpling with gold leaf, as well as luxurious dishes including Beijing duck and wagyu steak. Mon-Sat noon-9pm (last orders 8.30pm), Sun noon-6pm (last orders 5.15pm)

Mango Tree

5th Floor, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-3819 8888. www.chaiwu.co.uk. Station: Knightsbridge

Mango Tree, situated in the heart of Belgravia, offers exquisite Thai cuisine and world-renowned hospitality in a modern and stylish environment. Its innovative yet classic cuisine is made from the finest ingredients. Enjoy genuine Thai dishes from the four main culinary regions: rich and mild dishes from the north, spicy food from the east, mild, Chinese-style dishes from the central region, and hot and spicy food from the south. Mention ‘Where London’ when booking, and enjoy a free glass of Champagne when you buy any main meal. Monday-Wed noon-3pm, 6pm-11pm; Sat noon-2.30pm, 6pm-11.30pm; Sun noon-10.30pm. 46 Grosvenor Place, SW1X 7EQ (also in Harrods: 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL). T: 020-7823 1888. www.mangotree.org.uk. Station: Victoria

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NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE

Main image: Upstairs at Swift Below: A cocktail at Swift

Mixing it up With its speakeasy interior, playful cocktails and live jazz acts, it’s no wonder that Nightjar near Old Street is regularly voted one of the world’s best bars. It’s so popular these days, however, that it operates an online-only booking system that fills up fast. Now its founders have joined forces with another of London’s iconic bars (Milk & Honey) to open Swift in Soho, bringing a welcome injection of cocktail mastery to the capital – and unlike Nightjar, it has a no-reservation area upstairs, so there’s no need to plan your night out days in advance. Split across two floors, Swift has a bright, casual Italian-esque bar on the ground level and a low-lit, sophisticated lounge beneath, with a pianist playing on Fridays and Saturdays. Upstairs, the menu leans towards aperitif cocktails – try the Sgroppino, a zingy mix of lemon sorbet, Prosecco and Italicus (a citrus liqueur made from native Italian botanicals), or choose from a wide variety of sparkling and still wines. There is also a small but interesting

selection of beers and ciders, including Weird Beard Brew Co’s Mariana Trench IPA. In the basement, the cocktails get more serious, with concoctions such as The Fourth Gentleman made with 12-year-old Chivas Regal whisky, Japanese liqueur umeshu and pear; and Praline Flip, a warming combination of spiced rum, Guinness and hazelnut. Whisky lovers will be spoilt for choice with brands such as 17-year-old Compass Box Hedonism, 21-yearold Old Pulteney, and 18-year-old Dalmore. There’s even a 24-year-old Glenkinchie here, although a glass will set you back £40.

If you find yourself feeling peckish, order a round of rock and native oysters served with rye bread and shallot vinegar – scrumptious with a glass of Ruinart Blanc de Blancs. Other gourmet snacks include smoked mackerel and horseradish rillettes, steak tartare and a very satisfying Guinness Welsh rarebit, which is essentially a fancy version of cheese on toast (12 Old Compton St, W1D 4TQ). Elsewhere in the city, you’ll find new cocktail bars springing up all over the place, including Dickie’s Bar, which boasts a cocktail list that has been devised by The World’s 50 Best Bars 2016 winner, The Dead Rabbit, in New York. Located inside Corrigan’s Mayfair restaurant, this luxurious stand-alone bar offers delicious concoctions that are inspired by both America and Ireland (28 Upper Grosvenor St, W1K 7EH). Over in trendy Dalston, you can enjoy a three-course meal of cocktails at the new Ray’s Bar inside pizzeria Voodoo Ray’s, with drinks divided into aperitifs, mains and desserts (95 Kingsland High St, E8 2PB). Bon appétit!

SWIFT IMAGES © ADDIE CHINN

If you can’t get a booking at one of London’s most popular bars, Nightjar, don’t worry. The team has now opened up Swift, a venue that requires no reservations, says Sam Rogg

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Most bars are open 11am-11pm, most nightclubs are open 10pm-3am. The UK’s legal drinking age is 18. ID may be required. T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, Railway and Docklands Light Railway. References near end of listings (A1 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81

TRADITIONAL PUBS

BARS & CLUBS

The Blackfriar

68 & Boston

This Grade II-listed Art Nouveau pub, which opened more than 100 years ago, offers cask ales. www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk. 174 Queen Victoria St, EC4V 4EG. T: 020-7236 5474. E9. Station: Blackfriars.

Sophisticated Soho venue with separate cocktail and wine bars. The ground-floor wine bar boasts many lesser-known regions, including Uruguay, and all bottles are just £20. Nightly food menu. www.68andboston.com. 5 Greek St, W1D 4DD. T: 020-7287 3713. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

Cittie of Yorke The dark nooks and crannies, rafted roof and chimney-less fire in this Grade II-listed building take you back to 1430. Enjoy a pint in this traditional pub for a real taste of historic London. 22 High Holborn, WC1 6BN. T: 020-7242 7670. D9. Station: Chancery Lane.

The Dog and Duck A real-ale pub with regularly changing cask beers as well as pub food and bar snacks. www.nicholsons pubs.co.uk. 18 Bateman St, W1D 3AJ. T: 020-7494 0697. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The Flask This 17th-century pub boasts Byron and Shelley as past patrons and is allegedly haunted. www.the flaskhighgate.com. 77 Highgate West Hill, N6 6BU. T: 020-8348 7346. Off map. Station: Highgate.

The French House No music, TV or mobile phones make this famous Soho pub a real gem. www.frenchhousesoho.com. 49 Dean St, W1D 5BG. T: 020-7437 2477. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Rd.

The George Inn This historic pub was established during the medieval period and still retains its original coaching houses. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ george-inn. 75-77 Borough High St, SE1 1NH. T: 020-7407 2056. E10. Station: London Bridge.

The Bar at Bellamy’s Cocktails and wines served in a chic setting, which is decorated with vintage ski posters. www.bellamysrestaurant.co.uk. 18/18a Bruton Place, W1J 6LY. T: 020-7491 2727. E6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Baranis A taste of Provence in London, this chic bar has a grand vaulted cellar full of fine French wines and pastis, plus the UK’s only indoor pétanque court. www.baranis.co.uk. 115 Chancery Lane, WC2 1PP. T: 020-7242 8373. D9. Station: Chancery Lane.

Booking Office Bar

BYOC At ‘Bring Your Own Cocktail’ pay £25, bring a spirit of your choice and the mixologist will create a drink. Booking advised. www.byoc.co.uk. 9-11 Basement, Camden High St, NW1 7JE. T: 020-3441 2424. Off map. Station: Mornington Crescent.

Cartizze Bar Timeless luxury Bellini and cocktail destination with Art Deco surroundings and excellent service. www.cartizzebar.com. 4 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388. E6. Station: Bond Street.

City Social Jason Atherton offers spectacular food and drink surrounded by breathtaking views of London. The adjoining restaurant is one of the most talked-about in town, and the bar is also impressive, with its amazing Art Deco interior and Prohibition-inspired cocktail list. www.citysociallondon.com. Tower 42, 25 Old Broad St, EC2N 1HQ. T: 020-7877 7703. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

C.O.L.D Bar (The City of London Distillery)

The ground floor of the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel has a 29m-long bar surrounded by cavernous arched ceilings and stone walls dating back to 1873. www.bookingofficebar.com. Euston Rd, NW1 2AR. T: 020-7841 3566. C7. Station: King’s Cross.

A wonderful well-stocked, retro-styled cocktail bar that overlooks the striking copper stills of the distillery. Tastings, classes and tours – including an Evolution of Gin tour – are available. www.cityof londondistillery.com. 22-24 Bride Lane, EC4Y 8DT. T: 020-7936 3446. D9. Station: Blackfriars.

Brooklyn Bowl

Dirty Martini

This fun music venue at The O2 boasts a 12-lane bowling alley, three bars and a restaurant serving US favourites. www.brooklynbowl.com. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-7412 8778. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

With deluxe banquettes and a quirky layout, this cocktail bar is a hit with its endless list of martinis. Mon-Sat 4pm-late. Multiple branches. www.dirty martini.uk.com. 10c Hanover Square, W1S 1JH. T: 020-7632 2087. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

The Guinea The site of an inn since 1423, this was where Mayfair’s stable hands and servants used to drink. www.theguinea.co.uk. 30 Bruton Place, W1J 6NL. T: 020-7409 1728. E6. Station: Bond Street.

The Magpie & Stump This pub, opposite the Old Bailey, dates back to the 1500s, and once doubled up as a public viewing spot for hangings at Newgate Prison. www.magpieandstump.com. 18 Old Bailey, EC4M 7EP. T: 020-7248 5085. B8. Station: St Paul’s.

The Punchbowl This popular Mayfair-based pub-cum-restaurant was once owned by film director Guy Ritchie. Enjoy a variety of ales in the unique, classy surroundings. www.punchbowllondon.com. 41 Farm St, W1J 5RP. T: 0207-493 6841. E6. Station: Green Park.

The Spaniards Inn BUNGA BUNGA © JOHNNY S PHOTOGRAPHY

SWIFT IMAGES © ADDIE CHINN

FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

Follow in the footsteps of past regulars, including highwayman Dick Turpin and novelist Charles Dickens, at this historic pub, which is one of the oldest in London. www.thespaniardshampstead. co.uk. Spaniards Rd, NW3 7JJ. T: 020-8731 8406. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese This landmark pub has wood-panelled walls and vaults that are thought to date back to a 13th-century Carmelite monastery which once stood here. 145 Fleet St, EC4A 2BU. T: 020-7353 6170. D9. Station: Blackfriars.

Top Pick

A showstopper Margot Robbie, Cara Delevingne and Melanie C are just some of the celebrities who have been spotted in Bunga Bunga in Battersea. Now the all-singing, all-dancing team has descended on Covent Garden with a second branch, bringing their famous dinner and show offering to Theatreland. It might look like a pizzeria, but once you’re inside you’ll be taken to a secret door, which leads to a ballroom. This is an immersive experience, so listen out for clues in every nook and cranny (even the rest rooms). 167 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PG. T: 020-7590 3602. www.bungabunga-london.com. D8. Station: Covent Garden

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NIGHTLIFE The Dolls House

The Met Bar

This stylish cocktail bar and private members’ club offers mixed drinks in The Parlour on the ground floor, and is tastefully furnished. The drinks menu is varied and there is also a first-rate food menu. www.thedeaddollsclub.com. 181 Upper St, N1 1RQ. T: 020-7288 1470. D7. Station: Highbury & Islington.

With a suave Mayfair setting, this famous bar in the Metropolitan Hotel is very stylish. Extensive wine list, vintage Champagne by the glass and cocktails, plus a British food menu. www.met bar.co.uk. 19 Old Park Lane, W1K 1LB. T: 020-7447 1000. Off map. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

The Draft House

Mews of Mayfair

Fabulous draft beers come from around the world at this friendly bar. Measures come in one-third pint glasses (and larger), perfect for discovering your favourite. www.drafthouse.co.uk. 206-208 Tower Bridge Rd, SE1 2UP. T: 020-7378 9995. E11. Station: London Bridge/Tower Hill.

Drakes Tabanco A Spanish-style bar that serves rare sherries which have been aged in ancient oak barrels – enjoy a self-poured tipple straight from the barrel. There are also craft beers, a range of natural wines and tapas. www.drakestabanco.com. 3 Windmill St, W1T 2HY. T: 020-7637 9388. D7. Station: Goodge Street.

The Drift All aboard this chic, relaxing oasis in the heart of the City. Its industrial-style décor has oceaninspired touches, while the bar serves punch bowls and cocktails. There are sharing platters and nibbles to ward off hunger pangs. www.thedrift bar.co.uk. Heron Tower, 110 Bishopsgate, EC2N 4AY. T: 0845-468 0103. D10. Station: Barbican.

Freedom This gay-friendly venue attracts a trendy crowd to its stylish cocktail bar and nightclub. www.freedom barsoho.com. 60-66 Wardour St, W1F 0TA. T: 0207734 0071. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Gong Located in The Shard, Gong is the highest Champagne bar in London and the ideal place for sunset cocktails and late-night drinks. The bar also has an infinity pool. www.shangri-la.com. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8000. F10. Station: London Bridge.

Good Godfreys Old-style glamour and classic cocktails are served with a hint of history at this suave establishment. Try signature cocktails including the Astor Hip Flask, named after the New York Wardorf Astoria’s owner. www.waldorfhilton.co.uk. The Waldorf Hilton, Aldwych, WC2B 4DD. T: 020-7836 2400. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

©THINKSTOCK

Gordon’s Wine Bar

Enjoy Prohibition-era cocktails at this basement bar in Shoreditch, with live music most nights. www.barnightjar.com. 129 City Rd, EC1V 1JB. T: 020-7253 4101. C10. Station: Old Street.

Old Bengal Bar This place is converted from a former warehouse located in a quiet back street, with original brick walls and leather sofas. Enjoy classic cocktails. www.oldbengalbar.com. 16a New St, EC2M 4TR. T: 020-3503 0780. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

Opium Cocktail Bar This stylish upstairs bar tucked away in Chinatown serves innovative Chinese-inspired cocktails. www.opiumchinatown.com. 15 Gerrard St, W1D 6JE. T: 020-7734 7276. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Oriole Spacious cocktail bar hidden beneath Smithfield Market, with live swing, jazz and blues music most nights. Beautiful interiors and incredible drinks inspired by the Old World, New World and the Orient. www.oriolebar.com. Smithfield Markets, East Poultry Avenue, EC1A 9LH. T: 020-3457 8099. D9. Station: Farringdon.

Primo Bar Enjoy free live music every night while you sample the Asian-inspired concoctions. www.primobar. co.uk. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7282. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Reverend J W Simpson This cocktail bar is a real slice of ‘shabby chic’ – and is the genuine ex-abode of the good reverend as proved by the blue plaque outside. Scruffy sofas and a laid-back vibe are its hallmark. www.revjwsimpson.com. 32 Goodge St, W1T 2QJ. T: 020-3174 1155. E7. Station: Goodge Street.

Scarfes Bar

Hixter Bankside

Searcys Champagne Bar

Mahiki

where

The Nightjar

London’s oldest wine bar has been uncorking bottles from around the world since 1890 in its stone-walled basement. Hugely popular, so a seat is a real bonus. Well-priced pub food, including cheese plates. www.gordonswine bar.com. 47 Villiers St, WC2N 6NE. T: 020-7930 1408. E8. Station: Embankment/Charing Cross. Restaurateur Mark Hix’s bar shows his trademark interest in modern art – see an installation by Helen Chadwick that replicates a London Tube carriage. www.hixrestaurants.co.uk. 16 Great Guildford St, SE1 0HS. T: 020-7921 9508. E9. Station: Southwark.

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

Deep leather sofas and an 18th-century chandelier set the tone for exquisite wines, fresh fruit cocktails and light dishes. www.mewsofmayfair.com. 10 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388. E6. Station: Bond Street.

This popular tiki haunt is a real draw for celebs in the entertainment world – and previously Prince Harry and pals. The Polynesian-themed club offers classic and fresh fruit cocktails and special creations to share, including Treasure Chest and Honolulu Honey. www.mahiki.com. 1 Dover St, W1S 4LD. T: 020-7493 9529. E7. Station: Green Park.

Part of the luxury hotel Rosewood London, this bar is named after Gerald Scarfe, the cartoonist famous for his satirical illustrations. Enjoy Indian-inspired snacks. www.scarfesbar.com. 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8611. D8. Station: Holborn. Europe’s longest Champagne bar, in the upstairs forecourt of the glorious train station, serves seafood platters. www.searcyschampagnebars. co.uk. St Pancras International, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

Trader Vic’s Tiki-style basement bar and restaurant, which is more than 50 years old. The menu has rum-laced cocktails − try the Mai Tai cocktail in this exotic setting. www.tradervicslondon.com. London Hilton on Park Lane, 22 Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208 4113. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

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NIGHTLIFE

CASINOS Aspers Casino Endless gaming offerings and great views of the Olympic Stadium from the Sky Bar at this 24-hour venue. www.aspersstratford.co.uk. Westfield Stratford City, Montifichet Rd, Olympic Park, E20 1EJ. T: 020-8536 5630. Off map. Station: Stratford.

The Casino at the Empire There is a dedicated poker room and the latest table and electronic games at this spectacular venue, housing a contemporary Asian restaurant and several bars. www.thecasinolsq.com. 5-6 Leicester Square, WC2H 7NA. T: 020-3733 1315. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

The 100 Club

Stringfellows Gentleman’s Club

Famous live music venue with rock and blues bands. www.the100club.co.uk. 100 Oxford St, W1D 1LL. T: 020-7636 0933. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Enjoy entertainment by more than 80 ‘Angels’ dancing at their tables at Peter Stringfellow’s Gentlemen’s Club and restaurant. Free entry when dining. www.stringfellows.co.uk. 16-19 Upper St Martin’s Lane, WC2H 9EF. T: 020-7240 5534. E8. Station: Leicester Square.

Ronnie Scott’s The world-famous jazz venue has hosted the likes of Prince, Ella Fitzgerald and Miles Davis. www.ronnie scotts.co.uk. 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

SERVICES

606 Club

Icebreaker

A relaxed’ jazz cellar and restaurant, specialising in British-based artists, playing blues, r’n’b and soul. www.606club.co.uk. 90 Lots Rd, SW10 0QD. T: 0207352 5953. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.

Download this free app that enables you to meet interesting people in exclusive venues. There is a small charge to see profiles and message other users. www.icebreakerapp.info.

Grosvenor Gloucester Casino A vibrant and friendly casino offering a wide choice of gaming facilities, plus a late-night bar and relaxed restaurant. Dress code is smart/ casual and membership is free. Open 24 hours. www.grosvenorcasinos.com. 4-18 Harrington Gardens, SW7 4LJ. T: 020-7373 7134. G4. Station: Gloucester Road.

Hippodrome Casino This landmark venue has fabulous gaming on three floors, plus the 150-seat Heliot Steak House. There is The Late Jazz Jam (every Thur from 11pm). www.hippodromecasino.com. Cranbourn St, Leicester Square, WC2H 7JH. T: 020-7769 8888. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

The Sportsman Casino Traditional and electronic gaming, including three-card poker and American roulette. Enjoy the poker lounge, sports bar, informal dining and elegant restaurant. www.thesportsman casino.com. Old Quebec St, W1H 7AF. T: 0203051 4616. D6. Station: Marble Arch.

LIVE ENTERTAINMENT The Blues Kitchen This busy music venue stages blues, soul and jazz music most nights, plus a DJ at weekends. There are more than 80 varieties of bourbon and rye, plus Cajun comfort food on offer. www.theblueskitchen.com. 111 Camden High St, NW1 7JN. T: 020-7387 5277. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

The Comedy Store One of the country’s best and most famous venues for stand-up and improvised comedy. More than 3,500 people pass through its doors every week. The club launched the careers of many famous comedians, including Rik Mayall, Ben Elton, Adrian Edmondson and Jo Brand. www.thecomedystore. co.uk. 1a Oxendon St, SW1Y 4EE. T: 0844-847 1728. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Forge This bijou acoustic venue behind the Foundry restaurant enjoys a variety of live music most nights, ranging from classical and folk to traditional Indian and jazz. www.forgevenue.org. 3-7 Delancey St, NW1 7NL. T: 020-7383 7808. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

London Cabaret Club Cabaret gets a modern twist with the show ‘Best of British Pop’, which has hits from the 1960s to the present day. Dinner and VIP tickets available. A DJ plays until 3am. www.thelondoncabaretclub.com. Victoria House, Bloomsbury Square, WC1B 4DA. T: 020-7242 0002. D8. Station: Holborn. www.wheretraveler.com 75

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WELLBEING | THE GUIDE Clockwise from main: doctor; John Bell & Croyden

The doctor will see you now If it’s good enough for the Queen, then it’s good enough for us. John Bell & Croyden is a Royal Warrant Holder – an official mark of recognition that proves a company has supplied goods or services to the royal family for the past five years. The pharmacist has been selling medicines since 1798, and has been the Queen’s official pharmacist for years. Don’t panic if you happen to fall ill during your visit because there is a walk-in clinic for emergency prescriptions as well as vaccinations. If you are scared of the dentist, you won’t be when you visit Premium Dental Hygiene Services, which is run by two friendly Irish women who are happy to take on new patients. Also within the John Bell & Croyden store is The Active Health Clinic, which specialises in osteopathy; The Hair Clinic, which suggests helpful solutions for male and female hair loss; and the Chiropody & Podiatry Clinic, which specialises in treating feet conditions including joint and lower limb issues, verrucas, and callouses (50-54 Wigmore St, W1U 2AU).

Harley Street, which is named after Thomas Harley, who was the Lord Mayor of London in 1767, has become a byword for health clinics. Since the 19th century, the road and the surrounding area has had a concentration of some of the world’s leading private doctors and dentists. The Diagnostic Clinic offers same-day appointments for screenings, including X-rays, MRI scans and ultrasound scans. Crucially, for patients who have a limited amount of time, the results

can also be provided on the same day, even after multiple investigations. While the service may, at times, be personal, it’s all about finding the cause of the problem, which is achieved by the clinic’s state-of-the-art technology, from the 3T MRI scanner that is twice as strong as most scanners in the country to the X-ray machines that use digital sensors rather than photographic film (16 Devonshire St, W1G 7AF ). Opened by the Prince of Wales in 1988, The Hale Clinic combines eastern philosophy with western science. Located near Regent’s Park, it is inside one of John Nash’s glorious white Regency buildings. Set up by Teresa Hale, who has taught meditation for 30 years, this venue is ideal for those who favour alternative treatments, as it provides complementary and traditional medicines. Therapies include Chinese medicines, herbal medicines and acupuncture. There is also a shop stocking a wide selection of over-thecounter supplements, and books about health (7 Park Crescent, W1B 1PF).

DOCTOR IMAGE © ISTOCK; SHOP IMAGE COURTESY OF JOHN BELL & CROYDEN

No one likes getting ill, least of all when you’re on holiday – but if you do, here are some clinics and pharmacies that will help you feel fighting fit in no time, says Kohinoor Sahota

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DOCTOR IMAGE © ISTOCK; SHOP IMAGE COURTESY OF JOHN BELL & CROYDEN

FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. References at the end of listings (A1 etc.) refer to coordinates on map (p. 80-81)

SPAS Aveda Institute This three-storey salon offers cuts, colour, blow-dries and botanical treatments using Aveda’s plant-based products. The Express Beauty Bar has treatments lasting 15 and 30 minutes. www.aveda institute.co.uk. 174 High Holborn, WC1V 7AA. T: 020-7759 7355. D8. Station: Holborn.

Bamford Haybarn Spa Loved by celebrities, treatments have a holistic approach to wellbeing, and are made with botanical products. There is also a rooftop pool and secret garden. www.the-berkeley.co.uk. The Berkeley hotel, Wilton Place, SW1X 7RL. T: 020-7201 1699. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.

Blue Harbour Health Club & Spa This exclusive members’ only spa offers day passes for £25. Swim in a 56ft pool, use the fitness equipment or visit the Figaro Hair Salon. There are treatment rooms for disabled customers. www.blueharbourspa.co.uk. Chelsea Harbour Drive, SW10 0XG. T: 020-7300 5011. Off map. Station: Imperial Wharf.

Elemis Day Spa This spa specialises in facials that tackle ageing, pigmentation and blemishes. In The Penthouse, a private suite, you can share the experience with a guest while sipping Champagne. The Speed Spa offers treatments in 30 minutes. www.elemis.com/ dayspa. 2 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EX. T: 020-7499 4995. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Jurlique Founded by Dr Jürgen Klein, a biochemist, and his wife Ulrike, a botanist, this spa uses their natural skin care range. Treatments include an anti-stress facial, which eases tension to your face, neck and shoulders. www.jurlique.co.uk. 489 Oxford St, W1C 2AU. T: 0800-040 7685. D8. Station: Bond St.

Mandara Spa The spa has an Asian touch. Décor includes a bamboo forest, Modrian paintings and Japanese Shoji screens. Try the warm bamboo massage – it uses bamboo stalks on your body. www.mandara spa.com. Park Plaza, 200 Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7300. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Mandarin Oriental A luxury spa inspired by Chinese massage methods. Facilities include a 55ft pool and gym. Book a session with trainer Ruben Tabares – sessions can be held in Hyde Park. www.mandarin oriental.com. 66 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LA. T: 020-7235 2000. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

One Aldwych This spa offers a range of treatments including massages, manicures and waxing, and brands used are Natura Bissé and Oskia. The health club is excellent, while the pool is chlorine-free and has underwater music. www.onealdwych.com. One Aldwych, WC2B 4BZ. T: 020-7300 0600. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

The Refinery The men-only spa has treatments ranging from a traditional shave to sports massage. If you want to master a wet shave, you can book a Principles of Shaving lesson. Also available at Harrods. www.the-refinery.com. 60 Brook St, W1K 5DU. T: 020-7409 2001. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Rocco Forte at Brown’s Hotel An oasis of calm in the West End that boasts a 24-hour gym and luxury treatments including a gold age-defying facial and carat diamond face and body rituals. There are also treatments for two. www.brownshotel.com. Albemarle St, W1S 4BP. T: 020-7518 4009. E7. Station: Green Park.

The Spa at Dolphin Square Moroccan-inspired luxury. Signature massages include the Moroccan Majorelle and Arabian Ceremony. Treatments can be combined with a hammam. There is also a menu for hen parties. www.dolphinsquare.co.uk/spa. Chichester St, SW1V 3LX. T: 020-7798 6767. Off map. Station: Pimlico.

Spa Illuminata Recently voted the best day spa in London by Condé Nast, this spa’s menu includes facials, massages and options for men. Anti-ageing treatments include anti-wrinkle injections and skin peels. www.spailluminata.com. 63 South Audley St, W1K 2QS. T: 020-7499 7777. E6. Station: Marble Arch.

AVENA MASSAGE by qualified female masseuse.

Total relaxation, revitalising massage. Please call to book an appointment at your hotel, home or our studio on:

07879 697478

Urban Retreat at Harrods This is one of the few places that offers paraffin wax baths. Special services include extensions, weaves, wig creation and cutting in the Wig Boudoir. www.urbanretreat.co.uk. Fifth floor, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7893 8333. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Ushvani

Late appointments available

This plush venue was voted the best day spa by Tatler in 2012. The philosophy is based on ancient Asian culture and takes a holistic approach to pampering. Treatments include a Malay massage and Balinese massage, which incorporate herbs and spices. www.ushvani.com. 1 Cadogan Gardens, SW3 2RJ. T: 020-7730 2888. G5. Station: Sloane Square.

SALONS Gentlemen’s Tonic This is a stylish men-only grooming establishment with barbershop, body and hair treatments and a full range of products. www.gentlemenstonic.com. 31a Bruton Place, W1J 6NN. T: 020-7297 4343. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Geo F Trumper A traditional barbershop in Mayfair, which offers wet shaves, manicures and hair cuts for an elegant result. www.trumpers.com. 9 Curzon St, W1J 5HQ. T: 020-7499 1850. E6. Station: Green Park.

Hershesons Blow Dry Bar At this trendy hairdresser to the stars, you can ask for your favourite fashion-forward look from a menu and a stylist will create it in 30 minutes. www.hershesons.com. Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 020-7493 1600. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Jo Hansford This hair-colour salon, which is home to top stylists, is renowned for its colour correction work. The salon also has an in-house chef. www.jo hansford.com. 48 South Audley St, W1K 2QB. T: 020-7495 7774. E6. Station: Marble Arch.

Windle & Moodie An award-winning hair salon, which specialises in upfront catwalk looks. The 20-minute Speed Styling service includes updos. www.windleand moodie.com. 41-45 Shorts Gardens, WC2H 9AP. T: 020-7497 2393. D8. Station: Covent Garden. www.wheretraveler.com 77

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ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE

Delivered to you by

TICKET INFORMATION An Oyster card is a pre-paid travel smart card. It’s a cheap way to pay for single journeys by bus, Tube, tram, DLR, London Overground and most National Rail train services in London. You can buy a Visitor Oyster card before you leave home for a £3 fee and pre-load it with credit at www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk. The system has nine zones. Zone 1 is in central London. Visitors can buy Oyster cards and Day Travelcards from stations, Visitor Centres and any Oyster Ticket Shop. UK visitors can also pay for their travel with a UK-issued contactless payment card. See www.tfl.gov.uk/visitinglondon. An Oyster card also gives you a 25 per cent discount on London’s cable car, the Emirates Air Line, and a 10 per cent discount on single journeys on most MBNA Thames Clippers river buses. For more info, visit www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk.

GETTING AROUND For 24-hour travel information, visit the Transport for London (TfL) website. www.tfl.gov.uk/ visitinglondon or call T: 0343-222 1234.

London Underground (The Tube)

AT YOUR SERVICE Concierges in the capital use Where London for information, and they are always reliable experts in their own right Miko Selcuk, head concierge of The Franklin, shares his tips What kind of requests do your guests make? Restaurant bookings, theatre tickets or tickets for events such as Wimbledon, the Chelsea Flower Show or English Premier League matches. Once an Emirati guest asked for diet pills for her camels! What makes your hotel special? The Franklin was designed by the top interior designer Anouska Hempel, who was inspired by her travels to Venice. The hotel is set in the private Egerton Gardens in Knightsbridge, and you can eat here at Michelinstarred Alfredo Russo’s Italian restaurant. What do you recommend for visitors with children? Families can stay overnight on a reconstruction of Sir

Where is London’s most romantic spot? When you stand on a bridge looking over the River Thames, you can feel just how romantic this city is.

Francis Drake’s galleon, the Golden Hinde II. I’ve done it with my son – it’s great fun. Teenagers love The London Dungeon and Warner Bros Studio Tour, home to the Harry Potter film series. What do you recommend for repeat visitors? Hampstead Heath and Alexandra Palace have breathtaking views of the capital.

Any advice for a rainy day? The best thing to do is visit London’s museums and galleries; the Victoria and Albert is the world’s finest museum of art and design. If you like modern artists, such as Picasso, head to the Tate Modern. Tell us your dream day... Stroll through Knightsbridge towards Buckingham Palace, then stroll through St James’s Park. Walk along the River Thames and stop for fish and chips or a pint of beer. Clockwise from top left: The Franklin Hotel; Buckingham Palace; fish and chips; Butterbeer at Warner Bros Studio Tour Inset: Miko Selcuk

www.tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground map (opposite). Services run Mon-Sat 5am-12.30am and Sun 7.30am-11.30pm on most routes. The night Tube service runs on Fri-Sat on the Victoria, Jubilee, Central, Northern (via Embankment) and Piccadilly line. Fares vary; a Zone 1 adult fare costs £4.80 (£2.30 with an Oyster card).

London Buses London buses run 5am-12.30am. Night buses (midnight-4.30am) operate on main routes (several services are 24-hour). You can’t pay for a bus fare with cash, so use a Visitor Oyster card, Oyster card, Travelcard or a UK-issued contactless payment card. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/ buses. Single fare is £1.50 with an Oyster card or UK-issued contactless payment card.

London Overground www.tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground Map opposite). Trains run Mon-Sat 5am-midnight; Sun 7am-11.30pm on most routes.

Docklands Light Railway Trains run approximately every three-anda-half minutes to 10 minutes. Mon-Sat 5.30am12.30am; Sun 7am-11pm. T: 020-7363 9700.

Trains Paddington serves the West Country, Wales and the South Midlands. Liverpool Street and Fenchurch Street serve East Anglia and Essex. Euston King’s Cross St Pancras Marylebone and St Pancras International (connects to King’s Cross St Pancras) serve north and central Britain, and southeast England. Charing Cross London Bridge Waterloo and Victoria serve southern England. For times and tickets, visit www.nationalrail. co.uk or call T: 0845-748 4950. Eurostar uses St Pancras International. Go to www.eurostar.com for more information, times and ticket prices. Call T: 0344-822 4777 (or if you’re outside the UK, call T: 01233-617 575).

THE FRANKLIN HOTEL COURTESY OF THE FRANKLIN HOTEL; BUCKINGHAM PALACE © EDWARD PARKER; FISH AND CHIPS © ISTOCK; WARNER BROS STUDIO TOUR COURTESY OF WARNER BROS STUDIO TOUR; MIKO SELCUK COURTESY OF THE FRANKLIN

Oyster cards & Travelcards

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ESSENTIALS

Accessible London

Emirates Air Line cable car

Mailbox

Get information for deaf and disabled travellers, including step-free journeys on the Tube, bus and river service at www.visitlondon.com/ access and www.openbritain.net.

London’s only cable car runs across the River Thames between Greenwich Peninsula (The O2) and the Royal Docks (ExCel London). You can board from either the North Greenwich or Royal Victoria sides of the river (return flights are available). You can buy a combined ticket with MBNA Thames Clippers and London Transport Museum. www.tfl.gov.uk/emiratesairline.

Worldwide parcel delivery, courier and postal services. There are 1,600 stores worldwide and more than 150 stores in the UK and Ireland. Mailbox are also trained certified packers. T: 01608-649230. www.mbe.co.uk/london.

Taxis You can hail a black cab (taxi) in the street. Fares increase after 8pm. You cannot hail private-hire or minicabs, which you must book. We strongly advise against you using any vehicle that approaches you in the street, except for licensed black cabs. For more information, visit www.tfl.gov.uk.

Car hire Make sure your driving licence is valid for the UK and see ‘Congestion Charge’ below. Hertz: T: 0870-844 8844. www.hertz.co.uk. Kendall Cars Ltd: T: 020-8542 0403. www.kendallcars.com. Enterprise Rent-A-Car: T: 0800-800 227. www.enterprise.co.uk.

Congestion Charge There is a congestion charge to drive into central London, Mon-Fri 7am-6pm. Payable in advance or on the day of travel (£11.50), or the day after (£14). UK: T: 034-3222 2222. International: T: +44 20-7649 9122. www.cclondon.com.

River services UNDERGROUND SIGN © ISTOCK

THE FRANKLIN HOTEL COURTESY OF THE FRANKLIN HOTEL; BUCKINGHAM PALACE © EDWARD PARKER; FISH AND CHIPS © ISTOCK; WARNER BROS STUDIO TOUR COURTESY OF WARNER BROS STUDIO TOUR; MIKO SELCUK COURTESY OF THE FRANKLIN

Same day luggage delivery between London’s airports and London locations. Visit portr.com and quote ‘ESSENTIALS’ for 10% discount.

www.tfl.gov.uk/river MBNA Thames Clippers: T: 020-7001 2200. www.thamesclippers.com. Catamarans leave major piers every 20 mins. Services run between Waterloo Pier and The O2 (North Greenwich Pier) and on to Royal Arsenal Woolwich Pier, stopping at 20 main piers. Discounts on single journeys on all MBNA Thames Clippers river buses. The River Roamer day pass gives unlimited hop-on, hop-off travel from £17.35.

On foot It’s often quicker to get around London by walking. Look out for blue and yellow Legible London street maps. www.tfl.gov.uk/ legiblelondon.

Santander Cycles There are 11,500 bikes for hire from 750 docking stations throughout central London. From £2 for 30 minutes; the first 30 minutes are free. There’s no need to book, but you need a debit or credit card to hire a bike. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/ santandercycles or call T: 0343-222 6666.

Coaches London’s main coach services use Victoria Coach Station, a central hub which offers travel to destinations around the UK and some parts of Europe. SW1W 9TP. T: 0843-222 1234. www.tfl. Victoria. Map D4. gov.uk/coaches

DELIVERY AirPortr (Luggage delivery service) Same-day luggage transfer between London’s airports and hotels – travel bag-free and make the most of your time here. Prices start at £15 for one bag plus £10 for each additional item (any size or weight). T: 020-3384 6677. www.portr.com.

24-hour Tube lines Run Fridays & Saturdays on the following lines. More are due to open soon. • Jubilee Line: Across the entire line. • Victoria Line: Across the entire line. • Northern Line: Between Morden and Camden Town and between Camden Town to High Barnet/Edgware. Night Tube will not stop at Charing Cross until July. • Piccadilly Line: Between Cockfosters and Heathrow Terminal 5. • Central Line: Between White City and Leytonstone; between Ealing Broadway and White City; and between Leytonstone and Loughton/Hainault. www.wheretraveler.com 79

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WHERE NOW | TIM FIRTH

My London

TIM FIRTH DRAMATIST, SCREENWRITER AND SONGWRITER Firth wrote the hit film Calendar Girls, starring Helen Mirren – it broke box-office records when it later toured as a play. Now he’s teamed up with Gary Barlow to turn the story into a West End musical, The Girls, which has won rave reviews

What are your favourite buildings? I love 20 Fenchurch Street – it looks like an old mobile phone. I like any building that’s bigger at the top than it is at the bottom. What museums and galleries do you like? I do an annual pilgrimage to the BP Portrait Award at the National Portrait Gallery. Anything at the Wellcome Collection is worth seeing, so Electricity: The Spark of Life will be a must. My favourite as a kid was the mummified cat cabinet at The British Museum. Where do you like to shop? Years ago, when Camden Market was more ‘Left Bank’, I bought a briefcase made entirely of wood, which I still use. Strangers think I’m a doctor and give me warm smiles and respect. Would you do anything extravagant? My dad’s a Yorkshireman – we were not extravagant!

What is your favourite green space? I live on the edge of a forest, so the last thing I come to London for is green space. As a visitor, I want 100 per cent city. If forced, my favourite green space is probably the lawn outside Lincoln’s Inn. A mate of mine is a barrister and took me in there once. It’s like a secret stolen garden near the river. Where do you like to have lunch? I discovered Whole Foods Market during rehearsals. There are not many things that make me want to move down here, but that shop is what Hamleys must be like for kids. I built my own lunch every day for two weeks and could have eaten anything in there, frankly. Is there a place in London that holds a special memory for you? The grocery on Paddington Street, near Baker Street. Above it was once the music company where I worked. In a marvellous circle of life, the man I worked for, Bob Howes, conducted the choir for Gary [Barlow] and I when The Girls was on the Royal Variety Performance last year. How do you prefer to travel? On a river service. I’d go up and down the river for the whole of the route accompanied by a coffee and a London Historian member to explain all the sights.

What places inspire you? The River Thames – it holds the key to how London was born and grew. Would you stop for a drink? I spent a devastating few hours in The Toucan in Soho once. I’m partial to the Phoenix Artist Club, too – it’s right under the Phoenix Theatre. Where is your favourite place in London to have dinner? I’ve a soft spot for the Y Ming on Greek Street. Playwright Willy Russell recommended it to me and, when I was rehearsing Our House years back, I ate the same dish there every night. What would be your perfect evening’s entertainment? Going up The Shard and standing there for about five hours with a cold beer! Where would you love to spend the night? The Antony Gormley room in The Beaumont hotel. I slept there one night courtesy of the owners – there’s a room actually inside that amazing cubic sculpture on the front. It was the most extraordinary night I’ve ever spent in a hotel anywhere on the planet. The Girls. To 22 Apr. Phoenix Theatre, 110 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0JP. T: 0844-871 7629. www.thegirlsmusical.com Clockwise from top left: 20 Fenchurch Street; Tim Firth; Camden Market; The British Museum; The Shard; eggs Benedict at The Wolseley

EGGS BENEDICT COURTESY OF THE WOLSELEY; TIM FIRTH © JOHN SWANNELL; ALL OTHER IMAGES © ISTOCK

What would be your perfect breakfast? It has to be one at The Wolseley. I hate overly posh restaurants and somehow it manages to be not up itself. I once asked what happened to all the crusts they cut off the afternoon tea sandwiches – the staff toast them and dip them into a tub of chocolate. That shows the spirit of the place!

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